SAJN - Oct 2013

OCTOBER 2013

south african jewellery news

The industry's only trade journal

IIJW and IIJS 2013 live up to their reputations A diamond fit for royalty

New products and exhibitors at Jewellex Africa

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za

c ntents

Advertising Sales: Tanja Jordaan Cell: 083-268-6153 E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar E-mail: bhupal.potdar@publicitas.com Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Prestige Bulk Mailers

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC,

6. News • Indian diamond industry commits its support for World Diamond Mark • International Gem Tower attracts additional top-notch jewellery industry players • Christie’s auction of Magnificent Jewels: 15 October • Faces of Eternity: GIA débuts its ethereal exhibit in October • Four days, 1 200 traders and US$2 billion of goods on IDE floor • Three jewellery industry association chief executives appointed to senior posts in CIBJO’s jewellery manu facturing and distribution sectors

17. BRAND HISTORY Patek Philippe: a passion for perfection

18. INTERNATIONAL FAIR

PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

IIJW and IIJS 2013 live up to their reputations

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14. JEWELLEX AFRICA 2013

21. Brand Management

New products and exhibitors at Jewellex

• A new watch taking the Bell & Ross style back to the future • Tissot: In touch with technology • A rosy outlook • Italian brand opts for fashion colours • Titan wins Best Product Design of the Year – Watches and Jewellery • Ulysses Nardin: Technology for the high seas

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

A diamond fit for royalty

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

OCTOBER 2013

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2013. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

28. LITTLE GEMS

The industry's only trade journal

IIJW and IIJS 2013 live up to their reputations

On the cover For over five millennia the talismanic emerald has been sought after for its seductive beauty

A diamond fit for royalty

and treasured as an emblem of power and a symbol of hope. Today, emeralds are all the more precious when sourced from Gemfields, pioneers in the ethical and environmentally responsible mining of African coloured gemstones. For more information about our New products and exhibitors at Jewellex Africa

emeralds, tel: (021) 79-2488 or visit: www.gemfields.co.uk.

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NEWS

WFDB President Ernie Blom appointed Economic Diplomacy Advisor to Belgium Ernie Blom has been appointed as South Africa’s Economic Diplomacy Advisor to Belgium after being nominated by the Belgian Minister of Foreign Affairs. The appointment, by Royal Decree, is based on Blom’s contribution to the development of social, economic, trade and financial relations between the two countries.

In order to serve as an Economic Diplomacy Advisor, Blom had to meet a number of requirements which included having an honourable reputation, enjoying civil and political rights, experience of at least 10 years on the subject of social, economic,

NCDIA to host brown diamond conference On 3 October the Natural Color Diamond Association (NCDIA) will host a 2013 conference on brown diamonds at the Diamond Dealer’s Club in New York City. The spectrum of natural brown diamonds is often referred to in common colour terms as champagne, cognac, chestnut and latte, as well as trademarked names such as Le Vian’s Chocolate Diamonds, and one of the NCDIA’s goals is to help the trade expand the selection of colour descriptions to make

them more friendly and understandable to consumers. These colour schemes are an everyday part of the fashion world and lend themselves to perfect jewellery accessories.

The conference will feature presentations by leading scientists, gemmologists and designers led by NCDIA’s director of education, Thomas Gelb, Wuyi Wang of the Gemological Institute of America, Eddie LeVian of LeVian Jewelry, Surbhi Pandya of YNY Jewels and

trade or financial matters and having sufficient knowledge of the institutional framework and the socio-economic climate of Belgium.

Blom’s responsibilities will include submitting notices to the Minister of Foreign Affairs which contribute to the development of socio-economic, trade and financial relations between Belgium and South Africa, as well as responding to enquiries by the minister on information relating to South Africa. Blom will also be tasked with assisting the Belgian diplomatic representative in South Africa with the development of the region.

Gary A Roskin, GG, FGA and publisher and host of the Roskin Gem News.

There will be an extensive exhibit of designer jewellery and unset loose brown family diamonds, including pinkish and reddish, which show the diversity and creative designs they have inspired.

The NCDIA’s mission is to educate and promote the global awareness of and desire for natural colour diamonds. Founded in 2003, the NCDIA is a non-profit, membershipbased organisation.

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EXCITING BABY RANGE

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NEWS

Webster’s new campaign is a white-out Stephen Webster has partnered with photographer John Rankin to introduce a bright new advertising campaign.

The models in the campaign are painted white and photographed in striking angles with close cropping, keeping jewellery as the main focus.

Jewellery included in the ads is from Webster’s 2013/14 Thorn, Fly By Night and

Deco Haze collections, as well as a statement piece from the silver Superstoned line.

The campaign images also aim to highlight the gemstones in the jewellery: opal, ruby, emerald and tanzanite.

Webster and Rankin set out to create a dramatic juxtaposition between the new campaign and the 2012/13 campaign, which was dark and shaded in contrast. This

campaign is lighter, reflecting the mood of Webster’s new, “finer” collections, the brand says.

“Rankin and his team at The Full Service (creative content agency) know exactly what we are looking to achieve, ‘luxury with an edge’. This is really what sets us apart. With each campaign the message becomes more established,” Webster says. – National Jeweler

Three experienced jewellery industry association chief executives appointed to senior posts in CIBJO's jewellery manufacturing and distribution sectors

president is a new one in CIBJO and it will involve functioning as the chief executive of the division within the World Jewellery Confederation.

“Our objective in making these appointments is to inject new momentum and proven ability into these sectors, in order to increase their range of activities and improve the level of service that we provide to the industry,” says Gaetano Cavalieri, CIBJO president. “All three men are experienced industry association managers and possess the knowledge and ability necessary to initiate and sustain change in a representative body like CIBJO. Furthermore, the dialogue that they engage in and their close working relationship will enhance the sectors’ ability to address issues of common concern.”

CIBJO has announced the appointment of three veteran jewellery industry chief executives to

president of CIBJO’s Sector B. Simon Rainer, chief executive of the British Jewellers’

key positions in the organisation’s Sector B, which covers areas of the jewellery business related to distribution, including retailing and Sector C, which covers jewellery manufacturing, technology and precious metals.

Willie Hamilton, chief executive of the Company of Master Jewellers in the United Kingdom, was appointed executive vice-

Association (BJA), who was already serving as a Sector C vice-president, was appointed as executive vice-president of CIBJO’s Sector C. Michael Rawlinson, chief executive of the National Association of Goldsmiths in the United Kingdom, was appointed as the third vice-president of CIBJO’s Sector B. The position of a sector executive vice-

Cape Town: Tel 021 510 0770, Fax 021 510 0778 Gauteng: 0861 METALS (0861 638 257) Durban: Cell 082 789 3882

CIBJO president celebrates French Gemmological Association’s 50th year, praises critical role of gemmologists in maintaining consumer confidence Gaetano Cavalieri joined government officials, senior industry representatives and leading gemmologists from around the world at a conference in Paris recently, to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the founding of l'Association Française de Gemmologie (AFG), the French Gemmological Association.

Addressing the gathering, Cavalieri credited AFG and the gemmological community for enhancing the confidence of consumers in jewellery and the jewellery industry through their efforts to advance the principles of full transparency and disclosure. ”Consumer confidence is the platform on which we stand. If it becomes fragile and

have learned, and then to serve the industry through gem identification and grading is absolutely essential,” Cavalieri stated. “We are dependent upon your professional integrity, the quality of your research and the way in which you organise and operate your laboratories.

You hold the reputation of our business in the palms of your hands. It is a privilege and also a great responsibility.”

The CIBJO president called on the participants at the conference to contribute to the review and maintenance of the CIBJO Blue Books, which he described as “the most universally recognised and accepted set of jewellery and gemstone standards in the world”.

collapses, so will we,” he stated, wishing AFG, its president, Didier Giard, and its Council of Administration “many more years of serving as one of the buttresses of the foundation on which we all stand”. ”Your ability to keep abreast of developments in the marketplace and the minefields, to conduct proper and disciplined scientific research, to publish and disseminate what you

Faces of Eternity: GIA dÉbuts ethereal exhibit in October Peruvian artist and master carver Luis Alberto Quispe Aparicio will début a collection of 15 gem skulls on 18 October at the Gemological Institute of America’s (GIA) world headquarters in Carlsbad. The Faces of Eternity exhibit, which will be on view through April 2014, was inspired by the juxtaposition of human mortality and the timelessness of gemstones.

The intricately carved and polished, life-size skulls are made from different large gem crystals and ornamental rock, adding character to each piece.

“The magnificent gems and rocks used to create the skulls, combined with the skill of a master craftsman, give these unique pieces an ethereal beauty. From fossilised whale bone to rainforest jasper, and from pink opal to peanut wood agate, Luis Alberto chose materials from a gem-lover’s dream,” says Terri Ottaway, curator of the GIA Museum. “Each skull has a distinctive look and feel to it, making this collection fascinating on both a gemmological and an artistic level.”

Aparicio – an engineer by profession and second-generation master in these objets d’art – merges sculpting and jewellery fabrication techniques, creating unusual design work that is distinct from traditional European carvings.

Along with his sister, Sylvia, he has helped to revive Neoart Peru, a family-owned company started in 1975 that specialises in ruby carvings and focuses on natural wildlife-inspired themes using rare and unusual gemstones from around the globe.

“The skull collection was one of my favourites to create. By carving natural gemstones with a combination of lapidary art and metalsmith techniques, you can really see how the colours and textures in each stone bring each piece to life,” says Aparicio.

The complete collection is comprised of 26 pieces, each hand-carved from gemstones sourced from around the world and complemented by parts in silver and gold vermeil. The collection was designed and carved over the period of one year. Fifteen pieces make up the Faces of Eternity exhibit at GIA in Carlsbad, while the remaining pieces are in private collections in France, the USA, the UK and Russia.

Pieces exhibited are on loan from Aparicio.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

ADVERTORIAL

Andreas Salver

Manufacturing Jewellers celebrates 21 years

After Andreas Salver wasn’t able to get a job with Rael Kahn many moons ago, he decided to start his own business at the back of Richard Francis Jewellers, a newly acquired shop in Bedford Centre. There, in all of about 25 square meters of space, he set up a double bench – one for himself and one for Richard Silverthorn. Hardly qualified and coming from an unfinished apprenticeship with his stepfather Alan Mair, he was determined to make a success of his new endeavour.

“My mom was a jeweller and was married to Alan Mair, one of the biggest jewellers in the country. I was still uncertain about what I wanted to do with my life and haven’t given much thought to entering the jewellery industry. That’s when my stepfather suggested that I work for him for a while until I decide what I wanted to do – this made my mom very happy as she always wanted me to follow in her footsteps. Making jewellery came easy to me and I even made a piece in my first two weeks which was absolutely perfect – well, maybe not ‘perfect’ to Journey man Harald Niederhumer (now Aurum Designs) but I believe it was at least 95% there. From that day my passion wasn’t necessarily to make jewellery, but to make jewellery perfectly,” recalls Andreas.

“During my days at Richard Francis Jewellery I grew by the day, with more and more shops asking me to do their specials.

After seven years with Richard I employed five jewellers which meant that I needed to move upstairs as space became a problem.

There we continued making great pieces with a fantastic vibe in the workshop. We were constantly showing the guys easy ways to make perfect jewellery – always being in competition with each other.

“However, one day, while sitting in a restaurant with my dad, I got a call from Bedford Centre management telling me

that the centre was on fire. They asked whether they could break down the front door of my shop. Two minutes later I received another phone call informing me that the fire is coming from my premises.

While racing down the highway in my Toyota Tazz all I could think of was the large oxygen bottle which was standing next to an acetylene bottle. Luckily it was only a small heating plate that was turned onto high instead of off. This caused the sulphuric acid which was on top of it to boil and was burning the crystals on the

bottom which resulted in heavy smoke coming from my shop. The next morning I was evicted from the building as management felt that I was a fire hazard and decided to move to Coachmans Crossing in Peter Place – which is where we’ve been for the past 13 years.

“I always try to do the best deal possible for my clients. I work mostly with the trade and it has taken years of consistent hard work to earn an established and trusted name in the industry. We’ve won many prestigious awards during the years with our competition pieces – possibly five times more than any other jeweller in the industry.

“After the passing of my mother earlier this year my entire focus changed. Now, whenever we manufacture a piece I think of the legacy we leave behind when we go. I think of some of the pieces we’ve made and how much joy they’ve brought to our clients. I think of pieces we’ve made that may be passed on from generation to generation.

“I, however, believe that the best piece of jewellery you can ever make is something your client can wear every single day and the more he/she wears it, the more they love it.

“I would like to thank all the people with whom I had the pleasure of working with over the years – thank you for being a part of my journey.”

tel: 011 706 6828 | Fax: 011 706 1129 | EMAIL: andreas@andreassalver.com | Salver@iafrica.com | www.andreassalver.com

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

NEWS

Summer programme discovers three new kimberlites at Chidliak Peregrine Diamonds Ltd reported that its Chidliak summer exploration programme, operated by De Beers Canada Inc, was completed on 19 August and included the discovery of two new kimberlites and a possible kimberlite float, which is undergoing final petrographic confirmation. Concurrently, the Canada Nunavut Geoscience Office conducted a bedrock and surface-mapping programme over a portion of the Hall Peninsula of Baffin Island. During the course of their fieldwork, they reported the discovery of a new kimberlite dyke. In total, three new confirmed kimberlites have been discovered in 2013, bringing the total number of kimberlites at Chidliak to 64.

Earlier this year, Peregrine collected a bulk sample weighing approximately 508 wet tonnes from the CH-6 kimberlite by surface trenching.

Approximately 470 wet tonnes of this sample have been transported from Iqaluit, Nunavut to the De Beers dense media separation facility in Sudbury, Ontario. Approximately 10 wet tonnes of kimberlite were processed at the Saskatchewan Research Council in July and the approximately 28 wet tonnes of kimberlite material that remain in Iqaluit were shipped to Sudbury.

Processing of approximately 250 wet tonnes of the bulk sample commenced late last month at De Beers and is expected to yield a heavy mineral concentrate weighing approximately 1,8 dry tonnes. Final diamond recovery from this concentrate will be managed by Peregrine.

During this summer programme, De Beers completed ground geophysical orientation surveys over 12 known kimberlites using gravity, electromagnetics, ground-penetrating radar and

magnetics. The results from these surveys will be used to determine the most effective geophysical technique for discovering additional kimberlites in future exploration programmes.

Peregrine’s objective is to utilise results from the programme, together with geological and diamond content information acquired from core drill programmes in 2009, 2010 and 2011, to develop a preliminary revenue model and establish an initial resource for CH-6. The remainder of the bulk sample will be processed at a later date.

Howard Coopersmith, Peregrine’s external qualified person for sample processing and diamond recovery, says: “The CH-6 sample material processed very well and we expect no processing problems and optimum diamond liberation.” – Rapaport

Christie’s auction of Magnificent Jewels: 15 October Christie’s New York is beginning the fall auction season with an exceptional line-up of fine jewels, important diamonds and rare coloured gemstones to highlight its sale of Magnificent Jewels on 15 October. In keeping with collector demand after the historic sale of The Princie Diamond, the most valuable Golconda diamond ever sold at auction, this sale offers a trio of

coloured diamonds of superior quality, depth of colour, tone and saturation.

“It was an unprecedented season for Christie’s this spring, having achieved three world record-breaking diamond sales in New York, Geneva and Hong Kong,” notes Rahul Kadakia, Head of Jewellery for Christie’s Americas and Switzerland. “For the first major

Indian diamond industry commits its support for World Diamond Mark The Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) and the Bharat Diamond Bourse have confirmed their support to the implementation of the World Diamond Mark (WDM) programme, to ensure the health and future growth of the global diamond jewellery sector. Both organisations reaffirmed India’s leading role in the industry by being the first country to actively endorse the WDM programme. The understanding was reached following talks in Mumbai between these leading industry organisations and a delegation of the World Diamond Mark Foundation, headed by World Diamond Mark Foundation chairman Alex Popov.

“If you want to divert the flow of global spend on luxury into diamonds, generic promotion through the World Diamond Mark is the only answer. The World Diamond Mark will not only unite the players in the diamond pipeline, but will also provide a sense of confidence among the consumers that the diamonds they are buying are legitimate. GJEPC will contribute to the WDM programme, subject to appropriate approvals,” says GJEPC chairman Vipul Shah.

“It makes all the sense in the world to begin the implementation of the World Diamond Mark programme with the support of the largest player in the world diamond industry – India. We look forward to working with our Indian partners to enhance the position of diamonds in the luxury consumer market and to ensure the health and growth of the industry we all cherish,” says Popov.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

fall sale in New York, our team of jewellery specialists have travelled the globe to gather the finest-quality diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires and rare vintage jewels from notable estates and private collections. In anticipation of a continued strong market, we look forward to offering collectors the best in the world of jewellery auctions.”

Four days, 1 200 traders and US$2 billion of goods on IDE floor The summer edition of the USA and International Diamond Week in Israel recorded the busiest week ever experienced on the trading floor of the Israel Diamond Exchange (IDE), with more than 1 200 traders, buyers and sellers crowding the IDE’s trading halls.

The general consensus among IDE members was that at no time in the bourse’s history had the floor held such a huge variety and choice of diamonds, nor had it seen so many traders on the bourse floor. Sales reports were generally positive, with traders dealing in larger stones doing significant business.

“From an organisational point of view, this

was a major effort,” IDE general manager Moti Besser noted. “The logistic requirements and arrangements were huge: screening registered buyers, finding 600 hotel rooms, receiving, hosting and getting the visitors into the buildings, the business-matching breakfasts, the educational programme, the social events and, of course, the complicated but airtight security arrangements,” Besser explained.

Marketing itself as the most secure, but also the most user-friendly diamond exchange in the world, the IDE has a huge reputation to uphold.

“We literally had hundreds of additional security officers on call during the USA and International Diamond Week,” said Israel Vantsovski, head of IDE security. “Most of our security team members were not noticed by the visitors, and when visitors did encounter a security official, they were treated with courtesy and given topquality service,” Vantsovski stated.

“During the past year, our trade has experienced some daring, well-publicised robberies of diamonds and jewellery. Of course, at the IDE, with thousands of people in attendance, and some US$2 billion worth of goods out in the open in the trading hall, we had nothing to worry about,” Besser concluded.

International Gem Tower attracts additional top-notch jewellery industry players With the completion of its exterior, the International Gem Tower (IGT) has now taken its place as the number one landmark on West 47th Street, in Manhattan’s diamond and jewellery district. Meanwhile, the building continues to sign up new owners for office units and IGT’s retail high-end jewellery mall has surpassed the 80% occupancy rate.

IGT’s sales director Shari Neissani says London-based Gemfields will be moving its USA centre of operations to IGT, following a year-long search for the perfect USA address.

Krainz Creations, the prestigious American jewellery design and manufacturing company, has also acquired space and Gulaylar Group, the Turkish jewellery group that owns the mall space at IGT, reports that it has secured tenants for more than 80% of space in the highend jewellery mall at the International Gem Tower. Set to open in the first quarter of 2014, the shopping premises at IGT will comprise 50 shops as well as a café and Foreign Trade Zone offices.

Randi Molofsky, USA Director of Marketing for Gemfields, says the tower is the right fit for Gemfields, noting that the office space, with floor-to-ceiling windows and north-facing

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

natural light, is the ideal setting to showcase Gemfield's responsibly-produced coloured gemstones. “And the building’s security and amenities are second to none. We’re excited to call the IGT our home in America,” Molofsky says.

Roland Krainz, principal of Krainz Creations, says the Gem Tower’s modern infrastructure and security are two of the many factors that make purchasing a unit at the IGT so attractive.

“Additionally, having recently expanded into the Asian market, the FTZ status at the building makes this a more lucrative investment for me,” he explains.

Meanwhile, early adopters, such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), have closed on their space at the International Gem Tower in July and have started building out their premises.

GIA plans to move its New York gemmological laboratory to the tower in early 2014.

“We’re pleased to welcome the new owners,” Extell vice-president Raizy Haas says.

“At the same time, the IGT marketing team continues its efforts to make this building 47th Street’s number one real estate option.

Towards the end of this month, we’ll be at the Israel Diamond Exchange for a series of meetings with future owners.”

JEWELLEX AFRICA 2013

It has to be acknowledged that Jewellex Africa 2013 was low-key in terms of exhibitors and visitors. However, despite this there were both a significant number of new participants and new products at this year’s show. There was a positive side in that it was less crowded as far as layout was concerned and exhibitors were able to spend more quality time with their clients. “It’s an interesting dynamic,” commented Doug Sutherland of Sutherland and Goodman. “It’s not a negative.

Those who were present were serious buyers.

We had to work much harder in busier times.”

Hilary Stern of Metal Concentrators had a practical reason for the scaled-down show.

“Five years ago there were 22 500 jewellers in the country. Today there are 870.” She, too, commented that it was possible to spend quality time with customers.

In this recessionary time, which has been aggravated by labour unrest, both factors which are affecting the mood of the country and its economy, there were nevertheless numerous displays of up-market gold and diamond jewellery. A newcomer to the show was AA Diamonds, which has been in business for 15 years. Its 18ct gold jewels are highlighted by the inclusion of unique well-cut and polished coloured diamonds in beautifully designed settings which emulate costume jewellery in style, yet in a more desirable range of precious jewels which are elegant and affordable.

South African distributors have not yet completely adopted the current European craze for rose gold. Most finished jewellery was in yellow gold, but the range of great variety from Italian brand Fope presented the precious metal in yellow, white or rose gold.

Oro Africa, too, offered the choice in its range of wedding bands from its bridal jewellery collection in the Absolute range. The Cape Town manufacturers are now members of the Responsible Jewellery Council, a worldwide organisation along similar lines to those of the Kimberley Process which governs conflict diamonds from the supply chain through to finished jewellery, ensuring that gold supplies used by jewellery manufacturers do not have an undesirable source.

One of South Africa’s leading refiners, Metal Concentrators, has long been concerned about the sourcing of gold, in particular, because of the association with illegal trading of the pre-

New products, new exhibitors at Jewellex

14

This year’s Jewellex Africa once again offered an environment for business-to-business linkages in the industry that have seen significant successes for existing business growth and the integration of new participants in the industry. Its key mission is to provide a platform that will grow the South African and African jewellery industry. cious metal, as well as with money-laundering, terrorism, armed conflict and other undesirable practices. These refiners are also certified members of the Responsible Jewellery Council and uphold its codes of practice. The organisation currently has 440 members around the world.

For the past few years sterling silver has become an alternative to gold, not only because of the lower cost, but also because it is less “flashy” and does not attract criminals. A sign of the times was Silplat’s switch from the costly platinum to sterling silver stocks. Its collection included silver chains. Gemini Gold, although it had a dazzling display of gold jewels, also opted for more reasonably priced items such as silver

fancy wedding bands.

Coloured gems are always a popular item and Intercolour Gems, apart from its traditional stones had a special item on offer – that of lavender-coloured moonstones which are the newest gem in its stable. Other interesting items were perfectly matched in cut and colour pairs of sky topaz and Swiss topaz stones suitable for earrings, of which it carries a large stock At the uppermost end of the gem market must surely have been the fabulous collection of emeralds at Gemfields, a company which is also concerned about the ethics pertaining to precious stones. With its roots in Africa, Gemfields

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

JEWELLEX AFRICA 2013

sources its supplies from Zambia and Mozambique and among those at the show was a fabulous collection of emeralds, large and small. In fact, a member of the manufacturing sector, Andrew Stephens, was amazed at their quality and said that he had not had supplies of this product locally for some time.

In fact, so impressive was the display of these gems that Gemfields was awarded a special mention by the judges of the Best Stand on Show.

The judging of the Best Stand was simplified by the fact that most exhibitors had opted for fairly simple stands. Judges were Ivan Hayden, Andrew Stephens and Alice Weil and they awarded this title to Nomination, as they considered this display best fulfilled the criteria.

These were theme, impact, lighting, product display and international association.

An attractive stand was first-time exhibitor Browns, which concentrated on the image of the company related to its products.

Larry Brown said it had a five-year goal which it had now achieved. This was to source 95% of its items for its branches from its workshop in Blairgowrie and it was aiming at the next ten. Students from schools were taken in ten at a time and trained. “We trained two setters last year,” Brown said. This project is to change South Africa from an importer of jewellery to an exporter.

“If we manage to do that, we hope to create another 400 jobs in this country,” he said. Browns recently opened its first store in London and it hopes to open a second in November. “We are trying to create a jewellery brand, as opposed to being just a manufacturer,” Brown explained as the reason for participating at Jewellex.

An importer of fine jewellery is Spectra Wholesalers, which has been exhibiting at Jewellex since 2003. Owner Jimmy Taylor would like to see the show running for four days. He also commented on the changed profile of the people exhibiting. He approved the stricter control of entrants to the show: “With tighter entrance control, we are seeing more of the people we want to see,” he observed. He believes there is still a market for gold jewellery, despite the prevalence of silver on display. “amp Monaco” is a “new baby” in sterling silver imported from the south of France which is marketed by Bassano Gioelli. It, too, showed a small collection of jewels in 9ct white and yellow gold. The company has opened up 60 new

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

stores in the last year, said Davide Chaminello.

The products are chic, glamorous and all about a lifestyle associated with the Mediterranean principality.

Among the watch companies exhibiting was American brand Nixon, which hails from the San Diego vicinity of California and focuses on sport, music and fashion. It has a 15year history and has been on the South African market since 2007 and its products are now in 100 doors. This was its third participation at Jewellex, said brand manager Mickey Lindsay, who believes that a person’s choice of a watch is an expression of his or her identity. These are affordable watches with Swiss-made or Japanese Myota movements, of which a few are mechanical, the majority quartz. Some have Swarovski crystals and all are mounted on genuine leather straps. Three colours of plated gold are available – yellow, pink and champagne and combinations of steel and acetate.

This was the first participation of Swiss brand Bell & Ross. Collections are categorised as Vintage, Aviation and Marine.

Manufacturing facilities are in La Chaux-de-Fonds in the Swiss Jura mountains. The brand was brought to South Africa by the Bellagio Group in 2009 as a product of its distribution company and, like most of its timepieces, is in the upper price bracket.

The brand idea was always simple – functions, shapes and form – and they are easy to identify, with mechanical and automatic movements.

Maehler Trading featured a new product from Denmark which attracted considerable attention. The concept for Bering watches arose following a Danish adventurer's experience in the Arctic five years ago where he was captivated by the splendour and beauty of its landscape. And so a new watch brand was born. It takes its name from the Bering Straits, socalled in honour of Danish sailor Vitus Bering who explored the virtually unknown area in 1728. The Bering watch brand is a timekeeping version of the impression the Arctic scenery made on Danish businessman René Kaserskov in 2008 – cool and beautiful. The watches are in stainless steel, ceramic, some PVD goldplated, with quartz move-

ments, others with carbon fibre elements on the dial, some with a mesh strap, all with exquisite details.

Maehler Trading also launched an internationally known jewellery product – the Spanish-made Majorica pearls, which are the only organic pearl range in the world. And a third new product was an attractive range of clocks, one of which was a bedside version that included a radio.

Citizen is renowned for its cutting-edge technology and its newest Promaster Eco-Drive Satellite Wave-Air model takes a step into the future. It engages satellite atomic clocks of the closest orbiting satellite and will be available in South Africa in October. The satellite time-keeping system beams down from about 20 000 km above the earth directly to the watch. This avant-garde timepiece is set in a titanium case (Citizen was the first brand to use this material for a watch case in 1970) and functions wherever the wearer is – on land, sea or air – and the system adjusts the time accordingly. It has a sapphire glass, is water-resistant to 20 bars and never needs a battery because of its light-harnessing technology.

JP Time launched a new fashion brand named Locman which is made in Italy with headquarters on the Isle of Elba. A special design has an internationally patented, interchangeable system which enables the wearer to change the strap with one swift movement by slipping it in and out of a slot at the back of the sturdy steel case. It works like a belt loop. This model is aptly named “Change”. It enables the wearer to choose a different colour to match a specific outfit or one of a different material to suit a given situation easily and speedily.

It is a trend that local and international exhibitions are shrinking because of the economy’s downturn. Despite its reduction in size, the fair’s layout met with approval, as did the quality of visitors, the latter due to the organisers' continuing efforts. “Exhibitors will always invite their friends,” commented Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council, organisers of the show. “Exhibitors reported good business.”

The council intends investigating alternative venues for 2014, taking into consideration cost, availability and accessibility, with Montecasino and Emperors Palace in Johannesburg as possibilities. Exhibitors will be consulted in the final decision.

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BRAND HISTORY

A Polish watchmaker, Antoni Patek, began making pocket watches in Geneva in 1839, together with his fellow Polish migrant, Franciszek Czapek. However, five years later they parted company and Patek was joined by a French watchmaker, Adrien Philippe, who was the inventor of the keyless winding mechanism (until that time all pocket watches required a key in order to wind the movement). And so, in 1851, Patek Philippe was founded.

Shortly thereafter the brand added European moguls to its clientele. Among the first of these was Queen Victoria of England and her consort, Prince Albert. Victoria acquired a key-wound Patek Philippe created in pendant style which was made during the 1851 Great Exhibition of London. In addition, she acquired a Patek Philippe timepiece which was worn pinned to her clothing, suspended from a diamond and enamelled brooch.

The brand’s owners include Christian IX and Princess Louise, the king and queen of Denmark, who were among their royal clients, as well as Victor Emanuel III, the king of Italy and the Duke of Savoy and Hussein Kamel, the Sultan of Egypt from 1914-1918.

Apart from being a prestigious brand, Patel Philippe is also among the pioneers of the industry. Its innovations include the perpetual calendar, split-second hands, the chronograph and minute repeater watches. Among these was a gents’ quartz Calatrava circa 1999 – a design which still ranks as among the most iconic creations of Patek Philippe. This one was in yellow gold with second hand and date.

One of the most complicated mechanical watches ever made was created by the brand in 1989 for the company’s 150th anniversary.

This was the Calibre 89, which holds 39 complications including the date of Easter, time of sunrise, equation of time, sidereal time, a 2 800-star chart and many more features. This Calibre is also able to add a date to February for leap years, while leaving out the extra day for every 100 years’ interval.

The brand's timepieces achieve high prices at auctions worldwide, at which the themes play a large part in driving the demand for these by collectors, as well as for the addition to the brand’s Museum in Geneva. In 2008, a Sky Moon Tourbillon in platinum became the world’s most expensive modern wristwatch when it was sold by Sotheby’s in Hong Kong for US$41,49 million.

In May 2010, a Patek Philippe wristwatch produced in 1943 became the most expensive one to be sold at auction. It was sold to a Swiss museum through Christie’s Geneva for 6,26 million Swiss francs. In a yellow gold case, this

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

A passion for perfection In the world of Haute Horlogerie, Patek Philippe is considered by watch experts and aficionados to be one of the most prestigious. Like a number of other Swiss manufacturers, the company produces mostly mechanical movements of the automatic and manually wound varieties. With headquarters in Geneva and facilities in the Vallée de Joux, both the homes of Haute Horlogerie manufacturers, the brand has an impressive history. chronograph has a perpetual calendar and moonphase display. The most expensive to be sold on auction online for €471 000, also in yellow gold with the same complications produced in 1953, was sold through Auctionata in Berlin this year.

Patek Philippe’s advanced research department has been exploring the possibilities of introducing new materials to mechanical watches. For example, in 2005 the company introduced the Silicon escapement wheel to the industry. The vast range of modern materials offers many alternatives.

The company has been owned by the Stern family since 1932 and leading it since 2002 have been Philippe Stern and his son, Thiery, who took over as president from his father three years ago. In 2010 Patek Philippe produced 40 000 watches, which increased to 50 000 in 2012.

Calatrava is among Patek Philippe’s most iconic creations. The first model was launched in 1932, the year the Stern family acquired the company. It is an officer’s style timepiece with a dust cover on the case-back and a special hinge on the inside of this cover. This is a new development – a special mechanism which was

developed and introduced by Patek Philippe in 1952. Both case and mechanism were developed and produced in-house. The dust cover is suitable for engraving to personalise and customise the watch.

“As a family-owned watch company, new designs are born after deliberations involving a closely-knit team, at the heart of which our family has been for the past four generations,” says Thiery Stern. “As an independent company, we can make all our own decisions on the grounds of design and taste, rather than acceding to commercial pressures. What we are known for is taking great pride in keeping traditional skills and know-how alive. It is paramount for us to know that our designs also use the most advanced technologies for us to deliver a perfect finish technically and aesthetically.”

In the latest Calatrava model, the caseback has a sapphire crystal window to reveal the self-winding calibre with a large fourarm Gyromax balance with Spiromax balance spring which beats at a frequency of 28 800 semi-oscillations per hour. This ensures the rare accuracy specified by the Patek Philippe seal – a tolerance range of -3 to +2 seconds per day.

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International Fair

IIJW and IIJS 2013 live up The Indian International Jewellery Week (IIJW) and India International Jewellery Show (IIJS), like all their previous editions, once again delivered great trade and business opportunities in the jewellery and diamond segment.

IIJW, the fourth since its inception in 2010, captured the imagination of all who attended. Stars and a social cause marked the beginning of the IIJW. Miss India International 2011, Ankita Shorey, walked for the Beti show, an initiative for women's empowerment by Anu Ranjan, supported by Gitanjali. The ramp displays featured both Western and local Indian jewellery, while the clothing and stage productions dazzled. As always, the “A” list of Bollywood celebrities attended, including Vidyut Jammwal, Shamila Tagore and Karishma Kapoor.

The Prisha collection called “High on Life” featured a line of fusion contemporary pieces incorporating the latest trends in jewellery fashion. It combined the beauty of shimmering gold with diamonds and coloured gemstones.

The glamorous Madhura Naik was seen on the ramp wearing a gold kundan necklace with a pearl pendant and pear-shaped earrings.

During the closing ceremony after the “Best of the Best” show, Sanjay Kothari, the convenor and founding partner of the event, paid homage to all who helped make it one of the top social happenings in Mumbai and

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thanked the companies and people who have supported it since its inception.

The Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) launched the 30th edition of IIJS at the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Goregaon – the paramount show for the trade in Asia.

The show was held from 8-12 August and had participation from 860 companies from India and overseas. The chief guest, the Honourable Chief Minister of Maharashtra, Shri Prithviraj Chavan, guest of honour, Tlali Khasu, Minister of Mines from Kingdom of Lesotho, along with Vipul Shah, chairman of GJEPC and Pankaj Parekh, vice-chairman of GJEPC, inaugurated the show through a lamp-lighting ceremony followed by a guided tour of the show area. The event was also attended by distinguished members of the gem and jewellery industry, GJEPC officials and other VIPs and dignitaries.

The current account deficit in India and the 40% decline in exports from the country have placed a damper on the jewellery industry, which also saw a decline of 16,55% in jewellery exports. However, in typical Indian tradition, a longer-term view is taken and the industry is positioning itself for future growth when the

economy picks up. India remains the thirdlargest jewellery market in the world after the USA and China, with a US$30,1 billion domestic market and a US$40 billion export market.

Indian gold jewellery exports declined by 61% for the first quarter in 2013 compared with 2012. In the same period it saw an increase of 43% in the exports of cut and polished diamonds. On the import side for the first quarter, there was an increase of 44,5% in rough diamonds and a decline of 48,8% in raw gold.

Chavan, at the opening ceremony, said: “It is my pleasure to inaugurate Asia’s second-largest gem and jewellery show in Mumbai. The state of Maharashtra is one of the most progressive and industrialised states in the country; my government has always endeavoured to promote the gem and jewellery sector in diamond-cutting and design. Mumbai offers world-class infrastructure facilities, be it international airport or intercity connectivity which is key to growth and development of any industry.”

Also speaking at the inauguration, Shah said many expectations ride on this year’s show.

“The industry has been undergoing some very difficult times. While we are aware that the challenges can be testing, the current low gold prices are conducive to buying activity which we anticipate during the show. Considering the festive season ahead as well, we look forward to the IIJS generating business.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

International Fair

to reputation The five-day show saw many delegations from across India and a host of international destinations such as Bangladesh, China, Dubai, Hungary, Iran, Myanmar, Nepal, Azerbaijan, Russia, the UK, Australia, Thailand and more.

This year’s participation included pavilions from Thailand, Belgium, Israel, Turkey, Italy and the UAE. The 30 000 visitors, both international and Indian, visited the show in 2013. Asia’s premier jewellery show had on display the widest range of gems and jewels, covering categories like studded jewellery, diamonds and gemstones,

gold and silver jewellery, couture and machinery.

The show, like all its previous editions, lived up to its reputation in delivering greater trade and business opportunities in the jewellery and diamond segment of this key sector of the Indian economy.

One of the highlights of this year’s event was the Multi-Mezzanine concept. The pilot project was introduced last year with a view to accommodating the growing number of participants. Following the successful launch of the concept, these stalls have been designed and constructed in a manner that enables multiple companies to exhibit within the same floor space; a welcome solution to the space limitation that the show has been facing.

“Over the years IIJS has turned into a Goliath of an event, witnessing such unsurpassed demand that each year, we have had a long list of SMEs, new participants as well as smaller jewellery businesses wanting to participate,” said Haresh Zaveri, Convener Exhibitions (National) for GJEPC. “In order to accommodate

the growing requests, GJEPC has been working keenly on reorganising the entire floor plan of the IIJS. The growing popularity compels the council to work even harder and we are constantly exploring ways and means by which improvements and developments can be brought about.”

Other important additions included adopting Go Green Energy Saving Solutions, in order to reduce costs, energy consumption and CO2 emissions, and the introduction of the unique IIJS-Rapnet Diamond Kiosk facility in the loose stones section, which had the listing of the stock and prices of all the diamond exhibitors at the fair to enable visitors to check and identify their potential suppliers.

The educational element included knowledge seminars that covered topics on the latest developments in the gem and jewellery industry, in addition to updates on man-made diamonds and treatments, skills development, Indian jewellery trends and more. Several other value-added features have also been upgraded to improve the entire show experience for all stakeholders.

During IIJS, the WFDB had a delegation under the leadership of Alex Popov visit Mumbai to discuss the involvement of the Bharat Diamond Bourse and the GJEPC in the development of the World Diamond Mark. During this visit, both organisations committed themselves to this strategy and also committed substantial funds to assist with the establishment and development of the mark.

Promoted at the show this year was the GJEPC’s 40th Annual Awards, which will only take place later this month. The awards recognise the best in the jewellery business and have over the years been responsible for launching both careers and products.

This year organisers decided to expand on the concept and introduced new categories, such as “Most Socially Responsible Company”, “Most innovative Company”, “Best Woman Entrepreneur” and “Best Exporter”. These awards are highly sought after as they provide platforms and access to financing, visibility and wide media coverage.

India remains the third-largest jewellery market in the world after the USA and China, with a US$30,1 billion domestic market and a US$40 billion export market.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

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BRAND MANAGEMENT

Orion Jewellery Welders now in South Africa Launched at Jewellex Africa this year for the first time ever in South Africa was Orion Jewellery Welders. On display at the Lipman & Son booth, the three models were personally demonstrated by Jonathan Young, CEO of Orion Jewellery Welders in Utah, USA. “Orion Jewellery Welders offers hightech, affordable solutions where, until now, only laser welding was possible,” explains Ian Lipman of Lipman & Son, which is the official distributor and service agent for the brand locally. “These machines utilise state-of-the-

A new watch taking the Bell & Ross style back to the future Ever since it was founded, Bell & Ross has made aviation – and, more specifically, aeronautical instrumentation – one of its main sources of inspiration, both in terms of design and technology. This new watch represents the convergence of all the values of Bell & Ross.

Vintage in style, the new BR 126 Blackbird stands out as decidedly modern with its advanced technology and high-quality finish.

Offering a Flyback function characteristic of the very best aviation chronographs, it pays tribute to the Lockheed SR-71 “Blackbird”, the legendary American plane.

The Lockheed SR-71 “Blackbird” – developed from 1962 and in service until 1998 – carried out photo-reconnaissance missions for

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

art hard- and software to deliver versatile micro pulse-arc welding systems (the 150s and 150i models have the tack feature too).

All models offer user-friendly touch-screen display and control, with on-board tutorials to guide the operator through applications ranging from complex assemblies to claw tipping and many more in between.”

These welders work with any metal or combination of metals – even those which are complicated to handle, such as copper, titanium and silver.

the USA's Air Force throughout the Cold War. Although details of its missions remain a military secret, we know that the American spy plane managed to photograph all the most sensitive sites in the former USSR. Its outstanding performance and futuristic appearance give the SR-71 Blackbird a definitive role in the annals of aviation.

Like its namesake, the Bell & Ross BR 126 Blackbird is matte black in colour, giving more prominence to the crucial indications displayed in orange.

In unveiling this watch, Bell & Ross infuses its Vintage collection with an element of modernity. Its round case, the soft lines of its strap fastenings and the curve of its glass instantly identify the BR 126 Blackbird as belonging to the Bell & Ross Vintage collection.

However, its materials and its Flyback automatic chronograph movement incorporate the latest technological advances to offer ultra-modern functions promoting legibility and precision. The quality of the steel case (category 316 L, indicating a very high level of solidity and resistance to oxidation), its matte

black PVD finish, its 43 mm diameter, its sapphire crystal and its water-resistance to 100 m make it a modern watch in step with its time.

The Flyback complication was developed for aircraft pilots before the Second World War. It allowed them to instantly stop and restart their chronograph on receipt of radio or visual signals indicating the moment to change course or release bombs. Unlike standard chronographs, requiring successive pressing of buttons to stop, reset and restart the stopwatch function, the Flyback system allows the stopwatch to be stopped and restarted in a single movement. This makes it the best instrument for calculating short time periods.

Since legibility of on-board instruments is vital in aeronautics, two colours are prevalent in cockpits: matte black for its anti-reflective properties and white for its extreme legibility.

Orange – reserved for essential information – also has an important presence and, having always featured on the dials of the Bell & Ross Vintage collection, has become emblematic of the brand. In order to promote the most important information, a touch of orange makes all the indications linked to the chronograph function stand out in contrast against the matte black.

To further enhance the watch’s legibility, the chronograph’s central minute and second functions are displayed across the full width of the dial.

The Vintage BR 126 Blackbird also provides an instant reading of the time being measured via the central display of the chronograph’s minutes and seconds.

21

BRAND MANAGEMENT

A rosy outlook If any metal for watch cases could be said to rival stainless steel, rose gold is currently the one. Depending on the type of timepiece, this could be either 18ct gold or PVD plating.

A flyback chronograph by Breguet Type XXII, for example, of which the second hand sweeps the dial in 30 seconds, is set in a 44 mm case of 18ct rose gold which has a fluted caseband. The bi-directional rotating bezel has a 60-minute scale.

The mechanical automatic movement has 27 jewels and vibrates at 72 000 vibrations, has a 40-hour power reserve and functions for hours, minutes, seconds, date, the flyback chronograph (1/2 minute) and a high-frequency

silicon escapement and balance spring.

There is a second time zone at 6 o’clock.

Dubey & Schaldenbrand is clearly a watch for cognoscenti looking for an exclusive timepiece. It has a superb mechanical movement. The brand's Grand DT Rose Gold has a tonneau-shaped timepiece 37 x 52 mm in an 18ct rose gold case which has a cambered sapphire crystal. This has 25 jewels and vibrates at 28 800 vibrations, has a 48-hour power reserve, a decorated oscillating weight and blued screws. Functions are hours, minutes, day, central date hand, month (and day) discs) at 12 o’clock, moon-phase and chronograph. The sapphire crystal and back have anti-reflective coating on both sides. The dial is silver-toned with a chequered guilloche and sunray finish.

The watch is water-resistant to 50 m and is set on a brown alligator strap with matching 18ct rose gold buckle. Other versions are bi-metallic 18ct rose gold and steel.

The Revue Thommen Classical 82 Round model is a hand-wound calibre which has 17

jewels and a 40-hour power reserve. This is a brand which has produced over 100 movements since its establishment in 1853. This version is inspired by the legendary pilot watches. Besides its classic round case in 18ct rose gold, the silvertoned dial is presented in a more contemporary fashion with shades of rose gold delicately highlighting the hour markers and hands.

This classic model relies on simplicity, elegance and refinement in the pure tradition of horology. The hour markers and numerals are plated in rose gold. Functions are hours, minutes and small seconds. It has a sapphire crystal on front and back.

Rose gold PVD on stainless steel with polished treatment is featured on Gc’s Femme model, which has a quartz movement and a chic chronograph function added to its hours, minutes, seconds, and date functions. It is water-resistant to 100 m. The dial is mother-of-pearl in a rose gold shade. The 30-minute counter is at 9 o’clock, 1/10th-second at 6 o’clock and small seconds at 3 o’clock, with the date window at 4 o’clock.

The bracelet, too, is stainless steel with rose gold PVD treatment. The watch has two pushers and a folding clasp on the bracelet.

Italian brand opts for fashion colours Italian luxury goods company Salvatore Ferragamo is no newcomer to the watch market. The watch brand was first launched at Baselworld and has been a regular exhibitor ever since.

Salvatore Ferragamo was Italian-born but emigrated to the USA in the early 1900s. In 1927 he set up shops for his leather goods, but returned to his hometown of Florence, the brand’s headquarters to this day. The company is run by his descendants.

At Baselworld 2013, purple was one of the hottest colours. The brand features this with dove grey in a ladies' model available in two versions, both of which had a sparkling diamond at the centre of the guilloche taupe mother-of-pearl dial. The IP rose gold model rotating top ring is studded with 25 smoky quartz topaz crystals starting at 4 o’clock. This is mounted on a grey lizard-print leather strap, its colour co-ordinated with the colour of the gemstones. In the shaped steel case version it is adorned with purple topaz. This version has a small charm hanging from the centre.

The movements are Swiss-made Ronda quartz water-resistant to 3 ATM. Two models signifying a couple’s unity are

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the Vega 32 mm and 38 mm case of stainless steel with IP gold finish. The case and bracelet are entirely of stainless steel, the bezel and central bracelet links in IP rose gold. The dial is silver with guilloche finish and the watch is water-resistant to 5 ATM. Drawing inspiration from the spring and summer, the new version of the Ferragamo 1898 POP design makes use of bright colours of lime yellow, turquoise and bright red enamel on the dial. This Swiss-made quartz chronograph offers a veritable explosion of colour that sets it apart from the contemporary classic line of the same name.

The bangle bracelet is popular among young women and this extremely feminine design inspired the Gancino bracelet, which made its début at Baselworld this year. This is a cocktail watch for exclusive occasions.

Its outstanding features are the small 22,5 mm diameter case of IP rose gold – or steel – and the polished matching bangle bracelet which wraps around the wrist, following its contours. The dial is silver with guilloche finish

and applied indexes. This, too, has a Swissmade Ronda quartz movement.

A masculine design is the Ferragamo 1898 Slim Ceramic, of which the 41 mm diameter case is of high-tech ceramic material ensuring lightness and comfort on the wrist. This is of minimalist design and well-balanced proportions and is a mere 6,1 mm thick. The Gancino-shaped case – a feature of the brand – encloses a vertical pattern guilloche dial and the watch is mounted on a leather strap with calfskin lining. This model has a total black look with rose gold finishing and is also available in dark brown polished ceramic.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

BRAND MANAGEMENT

Titan wins Best Product Design of the Year – Watches and Jewellery The iconic Edge watch from Titan Industries Limited has bagged the “Best Product Design of the Year – Watches and Jewellery” at the Red Dot Design Awards 2013. This is the second win for this unique range, which bagged its first Red Dot award back in 2002.

Mahendra Chauhan, design manager for Titan Industries, received the coveted trophy for the Edge skeletal watch that he conceptualised along with the in-house design at Titan. This watch will now be showcased at the Red Dot Museum in Singapore and Germany in a special open concept display for the next 12 months.

The Red Dot Design Award is an international product design prize awarded by the Design Zentrum Nordrhein Westfalen in Essen, Germany and receives more than 11 000 submissions from 61 countries.

Peter Zec, initiator of the Red Dot Design Award and president of the International Council of Societies of Industrial Design, presented the award to Chauhan who said: “It is a proud moment for Titan to have won the award in the lifestyle category.

The Red Dot award is a testament to Titan’s constant innovation in the field of design and technology. We will continue to push our limits and boundaries in creating exquisite

products. This award sets a milestone for all our team members and proves our endeavour to give our consumers nothing but the best.”

The Red Dot Design Museum in Singapore is the only one of its kind in Asia. Housed in the iconic red dot traffic building – a former Singapore Traffic Police Headquarters built during Singapore’s pre-independence British colonial era, brushed in a bright coat of red – the museum is a refreshing dose of creativity in the centre of Singapore’s business district.

The award-winning watch will also be showcased in the Red Dot Design Museum in Germany.

“Titan Edge is the quintessence of contemporary timepieces,” says the company about this timepiece. At a mere 1,15 mm thin, the Edge movement is the slimmest quartz movement in the world. The winning watch is a part of the latest range of Edge watches, called the Skeletal Edge. These watches redefine the coming together of slimness and symmetry. It has unique features like the case-in-case concept, offset dial and sapphire crystal on top and bottom. Golf leather straps with coloured inner lining and a double deployment buckle with pushers add to the modern design element of the range.

In touch with technology A watch which was first created for its centenary in 1953 by Tissot has now been updated with new technology for the brand’s 160th anniversary.

The Tissot Heritage Navigator indicates a multitude of tine zones simply by setting the timepiece to a chosen capital – any one of 24 – and the corresponding time zone is shown by the numbers engraved on the bezel. This is a COSC-certified automatic chronometer and the brand’s mantra is “tradition with a touch of innovation”, of which Tissot has a long list.

The company was founded in 1853 by Charles-Felicien Tissot and his son CharlesEmile in the Swiss town of Le Locle in the Jura Mountains, with the introduction of the first mass-produced pocket watches. It was also the first watch with two time zones. They were responsible for producing the first anti-magnetic watch in 1929/1930. Tissot was also the first company to make watches out of plastic, the alpine granite rock watch, the first pearl watch of mother-of-pearl and the wooden watch in 1988.

The brand merged with the Omega watchmaking family in 1930 and Tissot-Omega watches from this era are sought after by

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

collectors. Tissot’s parent company, the Swatch Group, is a mid-range brand, the official timekeeper for the world championships of cycling, motorcycling and ice hockey. The brand has also been named the official timekeeper for the Asian Games of 2014 – which will be its fourth time, since it played the same role in 1998, 2002 and 2006. Its first engagement as official timekeeper was in 1938, when it was responsible for timing a series of ski races near the Tissot hometown. Today Tissot operates in tandem with various sporting bodies to produce even more accurate timing for specific events.

One of the brand’s recent models which has gained renown is the Tissot T-Touch, a tactile watch of which the touch-sensitive sapphire glass includes a compass, barometer, altimeter and thermometer. This model has been featured on Angelina Jolie’s wrist in the movies Lara Croft Tomb Raider and Mr and Mrs Smith.

The movement of the Heritage Navigator 10th Anniversary watch has functions for hours, minutes, seconds and the aforementioned 24 time zones. The timepiece is set in a 43 mm case of stainless steel, has a cambered scratchresistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, while the sapphire crystal

case-back is engraved and numbered. The dial is silvered or anthracite with the 24 capital cities on the central disc. The applied 24-hour time zone ring is on the inner bezel. The watch is mounted on a black or brown leather strap with folding clasp.

A host of famous people have owned Tissot watches over the years, dating as far back as actress Sarah Bernhardt, movie star Carmen Miranda, rocker Elvis Presley, the late Princess Grace of Monaco, James Stewart in the film Rear Window and our own former President Nelson Mandela.

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MARKETPLACE

Heraeus S.A. (Pty) Ltd. 29 Atlas Road, Anderbolt, Boksburg.

P.O Box 6089, Dunswart,1508 Phone: +27 (0)11 841 1903, Fax: +27 (0)86 564 8265 tony.eliott@heraeus.com

Tel: (012) 326 8348/328 5996 E-mail: smwatch@iafrica.com

Fax: (012) 325 7079 www.smwatch.co.za

Send your email address to subscriptions@isikhova.co.za with “Biz-News” in the subject line, or contact us on 011 883 4627.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

MARKETPLACE

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013

27

LITTLE GEMS

Alice Weil delves into the history of one of the world’s most famous diamond – and coincidentally the largest one in the world – the Cullinan Diamond.

Thomas Cullinan, born in the Cape Colony, had moved first to Barberton aged 22, then to Johannesburg in 1884 where he found work as a bricklayer. With his accumulated savings from this humble pursuit, he moved to the up-and-coming residential suburb of Parktown frequented by the group of industrial barons known as the Randlords, who formed the foundation of the future city of Johannesburg in the late 19th century.

In 1898 Cullinan had discovered the Premier minefields, close to Pretoria, which lay some distance from the existing diamond fields. He located the source through a diamond which had been found lying near a fence on a farm in alluvial soil. Perhaps it was washed down from some higher diamond-bearing geological position, maybe from a nearby koppie with a diamond-bearing blue ground pipe.

The land belonged to a farmer who refused Cullinan’s offer to purchase, but he was able to do so after the farmer’s death, buying it for £52 000 from the daughter who had inherited it.

The Premier Mine proved to be one of the most productive diamond mines and it was the superintendent, Frederick Wells, who – on one of his daily inspections – found a large stone in January 1905 after seeing a flash of light reflected by the sun on the wall of the shaft. At first he thought it was s shard of glass placed by some miners as a practical joke, but closer inspection revealed a partially exposed crystal which he managed to release using his pocket knife.

The diamond was twice as large as any other previously found. It was analysed and found to weigh 3 106ct and immediately named after the owner of the mine, Cullinan. It was of remarkable clarity, but had a black split in the middle. The colours around this black spot were very vivid and altered as the stone was turned around, which was decreed to emanate from internal strain – a feature not uncommon in diamonds. As one part of the diamond was smooth, it was deduced that the stone had originally been part of a much larger diamond that had been broken up by natural forces.

Wells was awarded £3 500 for his find and the diamond was purchased by the Transvaal government for £150 000 but insured for 10 times that amount. It was Prime Minister Louis

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A diamond fit for royalty Botha who suggested that it be presented to King Edward VII as a token of loyalty by the people of the Transvaal to the British throne – this in the aftermath of the Boer War. By a quirk of fate, it was Winston Churchill who persuaded the King to accept the gift (Churchill had been in South Africa as a war correspondent and was in time presented with a replica of the diamond).

Its immense value presented a potential security problem in the act of physically transporting it to England. With due ceremony, a diversionary tactic was employed using a fake stone and the original was sent to England in a plain box by parcel post. It then travelled to Sandringham by train, accompanied by two experienced Scotland Yard policemen, where the diamond was presented to the King on his birthday. He assured all that this unique gift would be preserved among the historic jewels which form the heirlooms of the British crown. When one thinks of this diamond, it is usually associated with the stone set in the British Royal Crown.

The rough was cut into nine stones – seven major gems and 96 smaller stones. Cullinan I, which is a pear shape of 530,2ct, is also known as the great Star of Africa. It became a feature in the Sceptre with the Cross. Cullinan II is the Second Star of Africa at 317,4ct, a rectangular cushion shape which was set in the front of the

Imperial State Crown. Cullinan III is also pearcut and of 84,4ct. King George V made it the surmounting cross of her newly acquired crown for his consort, Queen Mary.

Cullinan IV is square, cushion-cut and weighs 63,6ct. It was also set in the crown of Queen Mary and is worn by Queen Elizabeth II, these two diamonds known by her as “Granny’s Chips”. She has worn it a number of times during her reign. Cullinan V is heartshaped and of 128,8ct, set to form part of a stomacher of the diamond and emerald Delhi Durban parure. It has a large number of smaller stones set around it. This piece, too, has been worn a number of times as a brooch by Queen Elizabeth II. The 8,8ct Cullinan VII is marquisecut and forms part of the above-mentioned stomacher hanging from the brooch, while Cullinan VIII together with Cullinan VIII is also incorporated into the Delhi Durban brooch.

The final large gem to be cut from the rough is Cullinan IX, also pear-shaped, of 4,4ct and set in a ring.

The Great Star of Africa is currently displayed in the Tower of London, along with the other Crown Jewels. It has 74 facets. It took six months of brainstorming to discuss how to break it down and was cut by Joseph Asscher of Amsterdam. Thomas Cullinan was knighted

by King George V and died in 1936, aged 74.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2013