SAJN (SA Jewellery News) Nov 2015

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NOVEMBER 2015

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journal

Colourful styling in Hong Kong The world of pink diamonds De Beers: overall consumer demand as strong as last year

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC PO Box 651793, Benmore 2010 Johannesburg, South Africa 27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

c ntents

Fax: +27(0)11 783-2677 Website: www.isikhova.co.za Editor: Adri Viviers E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Linda Stock E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za Designer: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne.studio@isikhova.co.za Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed

7. NEWS • Red carpet Forevermark jewellery at Jewellex Africa • CIBJO releases first Blue Book devoted to coral • Fancy vivid pink diamond to list at Christie’s for US$23-28 million • De Beers: overall consumer demand as strong as last year • Trollbeads announces 2015 People’s Bead winner

Printing: Colors

16. BRAND HISTORY French watchmakers – an innovative spirit

18. GEMMOLOGY

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

The world of pink diamonds

21. BRAND MANAGEMENT • Watch nominations for prestigious event • Wrist candy from Rado • A grand collection • Cartier re-invents the crown • Rare vintage pocket watch auctioned

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

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NOVEMBER 2015

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journal

Colourful styling in Hong Kong The world of pink diamonds De Beers: overall consumer demand as strong as last year

Titan, the world’s fifth largest watch manufacturer, is proud to announce the launch of the Automatic 2015 collection. The 90034 design has an automatic movement with 21 jewels, unidirectional auto winding

and manual winding. It features a stainless steel case, genuine leather strap, butterfly clasp and domed sapphire-coated mineral glass. It is waterresistant to 5 ATM. Contact Luxco Importers on tel: (011) 448-2210 or visit www.luxco.co.za for more information.

• New Classic Moonphase created • Inspired by the love of music

14. INTERNATIONAL FAIR

28. LITTLE GEMS

Colourful styling in Hong Kong

A gem of a town

RED-CARPET FOREVERMARK JEWELLERY AT JEWELLEX AFRICA The De Beers Group of Companies, sponsor of the Diamond Pavilion at Jewellex Africa 2015, showcased a select array of Forevermark red-carpet jewellery at the event on 27 October.

The array of exceptional Forevermark diamonds have graced red carpets and high-profile events around the world, appearing on women praised for their beauty, talent and poise. These include Kate Winslet, Kate Hudson, Sienna Miller, Kristen Stewart, Dakota Johnson, Jennifer Garner and Margot Robbie.

As a licensed distributor of Forevermark in southern Africa, Caratco also created a Forevermark red-carpet collection named “La Dolce Vita” in order to build brand awareness. South African celebrities such as Bonang Matheba, Terry Pheto and Tanya van Graan have worn exquisite pieces from this collection, which was also part of the Forevermark redcarpet jewellery at Jewellex.

Every Forevermark diamond undergoes rigorous selection, as less than 1% of the world’s diamonds are worthy of the unique Forevermark inscription, which is an assurance that the stone meets exceptional standards of both beauty and rarity, and is responsibly sourced.

Also on display at the show was a selection of Forevermark commercial jewellery, including the Forevermark global design collections, the Forevermark Setting, Encordia and Cornerstones, as well as a bridal collection created by Caratco for the local market.

BHARAT DIAMOND BOURSE “WITHIN ITS RIGHTS” TO BAN TRADING IN SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS Responding to the decision of the Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB) to ban the trading of synthetic/laboratory-created diamonds, World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) President Ernie Blom says each WFDB-affiliated exchange is within its rights to decide on its policy on the issue.

“Each of our member bourses has full decision-making powers regarding which types of diamonds can be bought and sold within its premises, as long as the decisions are made in line with the WFDB’s regulations,” says Blom. “We’re not opposed to trading in synthetic/ laboratory-created diamonds and accept that there could be a market for them. We only insist that such stones are fully disclosed so that the trade and consumers know exactly what they’re being offered. This is critical in ensuring consumer confidence.

“The BDB’s decision aims to ensure the growth of the natural diamond trade, strengthen consumer confidence and promote faith in diamonds.

These are aims the WFDB fully supports.”

In a statement regarding its ban, the BDB said that at its 31st annual general meeting on 28 September 2015, “a resolution was proposed to declare that no person or organisation shall promote, trade in or carry synthetic, laboratory-grown or man-made diamonds within the premises of the BDB. Only ‘natural diamonds’ may be traded there. The resolution was approved by an overwhelming majority of the members and was passed in its entirety.”

Last year, the Israel Diamond Exchange announced that it was banning trading in synthetic diamonds on its trading floor.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

To advertise in our jewellery publications, contact Linda Stock on tel: 011 883 4627 or e-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za

NEWS

CIBJO RELEASES FIRST BLUE BOOK DEVOTED TO CORAL CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has released online its latest Blue Book, delineating acceptable trade practices and nomenclature for the coral industry and trade. The document was compiled by the CIBJO Coral Commission, headed by Commission President Enzo Liverino, under the auspices of CIBJO’s Sector A, which has jurisdiction over gem materials.

The new Blue Book is comprehensive, classifying both non-treated and treated corals, as well as artificial products that imitate and/or include coral elements. Normative terms which should be used to describe coral and disclose treatments are listed, as is the terminology that should be applied to define associated artificial products. Methods of maintaining the quality of coral jewellery are provided and the various types of different precious coral species are itemised.

Because of the unique nature of coral, which is an organism grown in nature without human intervention, the Coral Book includes references to the Washington Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species, which entered into force in 1975 to address concerns that many living species were becoming endangered because of commerce between

countries. The document also outlines national and regional regulations promoting the sustainable harvesting of coral.

The Coral Book is the sixth in the Blue Book series and joins the definitive sets of grading standards and nomenclature for diamonds, gemstones, pearls, precious metals and gemmological laboratories. Each is compiled and updated by relevant CIBJO Commissions, whose members include representatives of trade organisations and laboratories active in the industry.

The Blue Books represent a consensus derived from the broad expertise on the subject within each commission, as well as from outside individuals who have expressed an interest in participating in the development of the guidelines. In the almost complete absence of jewellery industry standards endorsed by the International Standards Organisation (ISO), the CIBJO Blue Books are the most widely accepted set of globally accepted standards.

“The Coral Blue Book is an additional tool developed by CIBJO to ensure ethical business practices and transparency in the jewellery business,” says Gaetano Cavalieri, CIBJO President.

“It focuses on a sector that operates in a very

fragile eco-environment, where proper standards and methods of operation are absolutely essential. I congratulate Enzo Liverino and his colleagues on the Coral Commission not only on their vision and efforts, but on the contribution they’ve made to our industry.”

“Although coral’s been featured in jewellery for millennia, it remains a product that’s not widely understood,” says Liverino. “Apart from creating common sets of standards, practices and nomenclature, our goals in producing the Coral Book included addressing important issues of environmental responsibility and sustainability which are specific to coral.”

“This is an important document that’s provided a proper framework and set of references for the coral sector, corresponding to those that have been established for other sectors in our industry,” says Roland Naftule, CIBJO Vicepresident and President of Sector A. “However, its release is just the first stage in an ongoing journey. Each Blue Book is a living document that’s reviewed and updated constantly.”

In addition to the Coral Book, CIBJO’s Sector A recently released online the updated editions of the Diamond Book, the Gemstone Book and the Pearl Book.

TROLLBEADS ANNOUNCES 2015 PEOPLE’S BEAD WINNER For the seventh consecutive year, Danish jewellery brand Trollbeads asked its fans to help design a new bead for the ever-growing collection of beads that fit the original beads-onbracelet concept. The company received several thousand unique designs from which 100 finalists were chosen. The fans then voted for one winning design.

The designer behind the 2015 People’s Bead is Amanda White, born in Buckinghamshire, UK, in 1976 – the same year the Trollbeads story began. The winning design,

Tropical Travels, combines three tropical flowers symbolising the joy of travelling.

“My love of nature and exploring new destinations inspired me to design this bead,” explains White. “Whenever I travel, I discover something new. On one vacation, I found myself walking through a tropical garden. The array of flowers and foliage fascinated me. I was particularly drawn to the plumeria [frangipani] and the hibiscus flowers, which were in full bloom. Their vibrant colours and delicate petals left a lasting memory.”

DIAMOND INDUSTRY HAS REASON FOR OPTIMISM ABOUT HOLIDAY SEASON

to 10% at its September sale. That followed De Beers’ decision to reduce prices by similar levels at its August Sight. The producers have accepted our arguments that diamond manufacturers simply can’t be expected to pay such high prices for rough at a time of falling polished prices. I believe we need to see a further reduction in rough prices, but these moves are encouraging and we expect to see the trend repeated at other diamond sales and tenders.”

Blom adds that the decision by many diamantaires to hold off on manufacturing will help put a firm floor under prices. “We had a situation where there were simply too many polished goods on offer. Now that some major players have cut production, there’ll be lower levels of polished inventories and possibly shortages in some items. I believe this will lead to a rise in business transactions.”

Regarding the all-important consumer demand for diamonds and diamond jewellery, Blom says: “The World Diamond Mark continues creating alliances with leading companies to help build generic marketing of diamonds.

While the situation remains far from easy, these developments give us reason for optimism in the coming months.”

World Federation of Diamond Bourses President Ernie Blom believes the global diamond trade can be positive ahead of the upcoming holiday sales season due to recent events.

He notes that initial indications from the September Hong Kong Gems & Jewellery Fair are that it is solid. Meanwhile, price cuts by De Beers and Alrosa are bringing prices of rough diamonds down to more realistic levels. In addition, much-needed reductions in polished production have been carried out, particularly by the Indian manufacturing sector.

“There’s reason to be optimistic, even though conditions do, of course, remain challenging overall,” says Blom. “Due to the global nature of its exhibitors, buyers and visitors, the Hong Kong show is a useful barometer of industry sentiment, so it’s very promising that demand at the event was stable.

“On the rough supply side, we’ve seen the world’s two main producers – De Beers and Alrosa – take meaningful steps to reduce prices. Alrosa said it would cut prices by up

SOTHEBY’S TO OFFER THE US$35 MILLION BLUE MOON DIAMOND Sotheby’s will present the extraordinary Blue Moon Diamond, one of the largest known fancy vivid blue diamonds, as the centrepiece of the auction of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels in Geneva on 11 November this year.

This exquisite diamond weighs 12,03ct and has been graded fancy vivid blue – the highest possible colour grading for blue diamonds – by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

The cushion brilliant-cut stone also boasts exceptional clarity, having been declared inter-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

nally flawless by the GIA. This stunningly rare stone comes to the market at an estimated price of US$35-US$55 million.

David Bennett, worldwide Chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division, says: “The Blue Moon diamond is a sensational stone of perfect colour and purity, combined with a superb cushion shape. Blue, for me, is the most magical of all the colours of diamonds and the Blue Moon will now take its place among the most famous gems in the world.”

NEWS

DE BEERS: OVERALL CONSUMER DEMAND AS STRONG AS LAST YEAR In its recently-released Diamond Insight Report, De Beers announced that India represents a growth opportunity for the global diamond production pipeline. Indian diamond industry stakeholders do not share this outlook, however, pointing to a lack of promotion in their country (and around the world) that has led to a significant drop in consumer demand.

With the Chinese economy now also in difficulties and a slump in oil prices having taken the pith out of Middle East and Russian demand, the diamond production pipeline is faced with the prospect of having to make it to the end of this fiscal year with only the American market to support it.

However, De Beers Group CEO Philippe Mellier says: “Indigestion in the midstream and downstream has impacted rough diamond demand this year, despite consumer demand for diamond jewellery being stable on the levels seen last year.”

On the other hand, one prominent Indian diamantaire notes: “Production’s been down by up to 40% over the past six months and we’re still struggling to sell our goods. Unless there’s something to promote and push sales, there won’t be any growth.”

De Beers, meanwhile, has highlighted the fact that diamond demand grew 3% in 2014 to exceed US$80 billion for the first time. It notes that these figures represent “the fifth consecutive year of growth since the global recession”, adding that rough diamond production rose 6% to US$19 billion in 2014.

The mining major also remains optimistic about this year, saying that despite last year’s strong performance, the continued strength of the US dollar and lower demand growth in China, global growth in US dollar terms will remain stable on 2014 levels.

De Beers’ optimism about India as a growth market is based on general economic

indicators. Writing about the country’s outlook for diamond demand, it notes: • Driven by a widening consumer base, economic development and increasing volumes, India’s diamond consumer market has achieved almost uninterrupted growth over the past 20 years. It is now one of the world’s largest consumer markets.

• The retail landscape is changing. Chains are set to grow in significance and lead the way in online development, both as a sales channel and as a means of researching future purchases. Brands are also becoming increasingly important for Indian consumers as assurances of quality and authenticity.

• As affluence continues to grow, more Indian women will be able to purchase diamonds. Seventy-five million new Indian households are expected to see income rise above US$5 000-US$6 000 in the decade, contributing to growing diamond demand. Meanwhile, the number of elite households is expected to

triple over the next decade to 12 million, while the super-elites are expected to quadruple in size and reach over three million households by 2024, presenting the industry with a further growth opportunity.

However, other industry stakeholders note that no matter how much affluence grows in the country, the problem is the lack of initiative to interest consumers in diamonds.

“The challenges faced by the sector in 2015 are expected to be short-term and the industry has excellent prospects,” says Mellier. “The long-term trend for demand has been positive, with consistent growth in demand for diamond jewellery since the 2008/9 financial crisis. There are also further exciting growth opportunities in the main consumer markets and India’s a great example of this. Already one of the world’s largest markets for diamond jewellery, the growth of the middle class in India over the next decade is set to make a major contribution to growing diamond demand.”

FANCY VIVID PINK DIAMOND TO LIST AT CHRISTIE’S Christie’s is to put up for sale what it describes as “the largest cushion-shaped fancy vivid pink diamond ever to be offered at auction”, valued at US$23-28 million.

The 16,08ct diamond is set in a ring and surrounded by a double row of pavé white diamonds, with a third row of small pink diamonds underneath. The band comprises small, circular-cut white diamonds set in platinum.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

The stone shows no trace of secondary colour.

It will be presented for auction from 10 November at the inaugural Magnificent Jewels auction in Geneva and is expected to break records for diamond sale prices.

In 2009 Christie’s Hong Kong sold the Vivid Pink, a cushion-shaped fancy vivid pink diamond of 5ct, for US$2,16 million per carat, which is still the world auction record price

per carat for any pink diamond.

Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Jewellery at Christie’s, says the diamond has come to market “at a time when great gems are mirroring prices achieved for masterpieces in the world of fine art. Collectors are looking to jewels as savvy investments that are both beautiful and can appreciate considerably in value over a relatively short period.” – Rapaport

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INTERNATIONAL FAIR

Colourful styling in Hong There was bling, flash, dazzle and glitz a-plenty – but also plenty of class and high quality at the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair (HKW&CF), the world’s largest timepiece fair which opened on 8 September in the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre looking out directly onto beautiful Victoria Harbour. Martin Foster reviews industry movements at this year’s event.

THE 34TH HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK Fair featured 780 exhibitors from China, Hong Kong and 23 countries and regions including Bermuda, Denmark, Lebanon, Russia and Spain, making it the largest trade fair of its kind in the world. Overall, the number of Swiss

brands at the event was double that of 2014, with more than 40 brand exhibitors demonstrating that the Swiss now want to sell more aggressively into China.

Prince Jewellery & Watch Co exhibited major brands including Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Breguet, Chopard, Franck Muller, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Pan-

erai, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin and A Lange & Söhne from Glashütte.

In addition, Switzerland’s watchmaking expertise was promoted at two new pavilions: Swiss Eminence, featuring brands such as Cyma, Enicar, DOXA and Sultana, and Swiss Independent Watchmaking, featuring timepieces by Charriol, Pilo & Co, Rebellion, Traser and WATCHe. Every year, Chinese watch producers show a growing understanding of how to compete against the finest European luxury makers in terms of quality and finish. “China Made” continues to grow and we should never underestimate Chinese skill with decorative bevelling, polishing and finishing, which are now part of the established pattern of high-end manufacture. At the 2015 Hong Kong fair, we especially noted the speed of change and advances in sophistication and artistic subtlety.

Although the Chinese don’t have the heritage claims of the Swiss, their history is nevertheless developing its own gravitas.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

INTERNATIONAL FAIR

ng Kong This accelerated change was reflected in a speech by China’s President Xi Jinping to American business leaders: “I believe that from a long-term perspective, China’s economic fundamentals are good. We’re working to create a new open economic system, push forward reform of foreign investment management and greatly reduce the restrictions on foreign investment. China will greatly strengthen the protection of intellectual property.”

For the sanity of the luxury watch industry, all brands hope this fight against fakes and copies will come sooner, rather than later. Then again, given the new Swiss policies on parts restriction and monopolistic avarice, some have argued that at least one can have a fake repaired in a reasonable time and at a reasonable price.

Although the Chinese don’t have the heritage claims of the Swiss (very few of whom can actually withstand close scrutiny), their history is nevertheless developing its own gravitas.

For example, today Beijing Watch is producing tourbillons, double tourbillons, minute repeater tourbillons and double 90° tourbillons – very

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

fancy stuff indeed which demands closer attention by serious buyers. Rest assured, current prices will not withstand the upward pressure exerted by Swiss luxury brands – which, in turn, will open up wonderful market opportunities for these very fine Chinese pieces.

Note, in particular, that the average export price of watches out of China (all categories) is only US$3, which contrasts starkly with the average export price of US$791 out of Switzerland. A market adjustment of this enormous discrepancy is inevitable.

Hong Kong brands are highly regarded on the mainland, despite the fact that they are all manufactured in southern (mainland) China and after an export/import/export round-robin through Hong Kong, watches return to China labelled "Made in Hong Kong". Today, however, there is no watch manufacturer in Hong Kong.

The major tool manufacturers were at the fair, such as Bergeon, Witschi and, of course, Chinese makers, but these exhibitors only have real relevance at the event for Asian, Hong Kong and mainland Chinese buyers.

Plan a visit to the colourful HKW&CF for yourself, provided you’re a trade visitor. The staff are courteous and friendly, the range is enormous and the ingenuity and excellence of the timepieces are breathtaking.

(Above, from top): The Swiss Independent Watchmaking Pavilion provided economical exposure for contemporary middle-of-the-range Swiss watch producers; the Swiss Eminence Pavilion provided economical exposure for established brands from middle-of-the-range Swiss watch producers (Left, from top): Memorigin Ref MO 1223, 28 800 v/ hr, with 155 parts, 18 jewels, 12 diamonds on the dial and exquisite dragon embossment, a co-axial tourbillon at 6 o’clock rotation of 60s, a 40-hour power reserve; Kairos produces the world’s first hybrid mechanical smartwatch. Time functions are provided by a self-winding mechanical calibre and the watch functions come via the accompanying Kairos app on iOS, Android or Windows Phone, Kairos hybrid mechanical smartwatch and Kairos T-Band. Connected with a health app and partnered with the integrated movement sensors, the watch becomes a robust activity tracker powered by Misfit®, tracking steps, calories, sleep, heart rate and sweat levels.

(Far left, from left): Garmin’s “Vivoactive” is a lightweight GPS smartwatch which comes with built-in running, biking, golfing, swimming and activity tracking apps. It can be used alone or paired with a smartphone for incoming call and message notifications. The design is American; Elegantsis exhibited its JT61 Cockpit Chronograph. The arresting colour of the dial, coupled with the metallic feel of the inner rim and finely designed markers, combine with the amazing electroplated black of the casing to enhance the watch’s overall appeal

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BRAND HISTORY

French watchmakers: an innovative spirit

THE FIRST CLOCKS WERE PLACED in the high towers and belfries of large French and European cities, as the system of weights and pulleys used for their functioning required a long drop. Miniaturisation of this system was the precursor of things to come. It was manifested in the work of Dutchman Christian Huygens, who lived part of his life in Paris and in 1657 produced the pendulum clock.

This was followed by the first balance spring mechanism in 1675 and Huygens’ inventions gave a tremendous boost to Parisian watchmaking. Paris and Rouen were important centres of watch production in the 17th century. However, the Edict of Nantes – which outlawed Protestantism – was a serious blow to the well-educated French and many of the watch profession chose exile in England, Holland, Germany and Switzerland to continue their work. This factor eventually created stiff competition for the French.

Nevertheless, sumptuous decoration of French clocks and watches remained superior throughout the second half of the 17th and the early 18th centuries through renowned watchmakers who found solutions for technical problems. These innovators included Janvier and Abraham-Louis Breguet, the latter best known for his predecessor of the modern luxury watch.

During the middle of the 19th century, the French sold great quantities of watch movements to the Swiss. A French watchmaker named Japy was the first to build modern factories for mass production.

France rapidly adapted to the preference for wristwatches, rather than pocket watches, after World War I and produced very fine movements before and after World War II. The 1980s heralded the so-called quartz revolution, but France adapted to this new wave of technology by making the necessary adjustments to its production process and filling in less competitive gaps in the market through the sale of high-quality components.

Its watches were distinctive and had unusual features in their design – for example, brands like Beuchat and Pierre Lanvier. There was also renewed production of mechanical

The French have had a long list of achievements in watchmaking since the early years of the industry. New time-keeping methods in the 13th century were numerous and improved accuracy, using inventions which succeeded the former unscientific methods. The development of the escape mechanism was a predecessor to the modern watch. movements from Pequinet, Christian Bernard, Saint Honoré and Michel Herbelin.

The latter brand found a ready market in South Africa when it was introduced in the late 1980s and early ’90s. The company was founded in 1947 by the watchmaker of that name in the French Jura mountain village of Charquemont, near the border of Switzerland.

Following Herbelin Senior’s innovative spirit in 1972 were his sons Jean-Claude and PierreMichel. The company’s headquarters and factory in a quiet, tree-lined street are in the shape of a long, sleek vessel, emphasising the brand’s association with the ocean. It was the sea which inspired Michel Herbelin: his love of sailing was well-known and his private yacht was moored on the French Riviera.

It was also he who instituted the brand’s iconic range, Newport, named after the New England town in the USA which is a Mecca for sailors, famous for yachting races and the home of the international America’s Cup. It is reported to symbolise the American Dream – a concept brought to the product line. The design was also inspired by a ship’s porthole, while the cable motif provides the finishing touch.

The brand maintains fine watch traditions and is one of the leaders in its market segment in France, with an international market sold in 50 countries worldwide.

France rapidly adapted to the preference for wristwatches, rather than pocket watches, after World War I. 16

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

GEMMOLOGY

The world of pink diamonds The October 2015 issue of SAJN looked at the impact of auction sales, the geology of the Argyle mine and Argyle pink diamonds’ testing and value. In this issue, Branko Deljanin, Dr Adolf Peretti and Matthias Alessandri look at the historical review and characteristics of non-Argyle pinks and the screening for natural and synthetic diamond types.

Historical review and characteristics of non-Argyle pinks After India’s major production of diamonds began in the 17th century (including rare, large Golconda colourless and pink diamonds), Brazil was the next primary source for colourless and coloured diamonds, including rare pink stones originating from the panning of gravel in Brazilian rivers in the 17th century and until the present. It was in one such small river that a boy found a red 13,90ct diamond crystal while swimming. In 1990, the crystal was subsequently purchased by William Goldberg Diamond Corp and cut to produce a 5,11ct fancy red, the largest of its kind. In 2001, it was purchased by Moussaieff Jewellers for $1,8 million per carat and renamed the “Moussaieff Red”. Originating from approximately one gram of carbon that turned red as the result of the right combination of pressure and temperature, the stone is currently valued at over $20 million. One of the authors (Branko Deljanin) had a chance to see this rare stone while working in New York.

Many other pinks have been mined in the past 100 years from special carrot-shaped magmatic rock called kimberlite (central and South Africa, Russia and Canada). The following are known sources of pink and purple non-Argyle diamonds and their claim to fame regarding important stones, in historical order: • Indonesia (Borneo-Kalimantan): More pink ish-brown, oldest diamond mining from riv ers, starting in the 16th century.

• India (Golconda): 186ct, light pink, the “Dar ya-I-Nur”; Golconda – the 34,65ct “Princie” Fancy Intense pink diamond sold in 2013 for $39 323 750; the 28,15ct “Agra” pink dia mond – from kimberlite in the 17th century.

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• Brazil (Minas Gerais): The 5,11ct “Mous saieff Red” in 1990 – from rivers in the 18th century until now.

• SA (56,90ct, the Fancy Vivid Pink “Pink Star”) – from kimberlite in the late 19th cen tury until now (the lace mine in SA in 2015).

• Venezuela (Santa Elena) – pink diamonds found in rivers in the 1920s until now.

• Tanzania (the 23,60ct “Williamson Pink”, flawless) – in 1947 from kimberlite.

• Congo (Katanga Province – Kasai, a mixture of brown and pink) – from rivers in the mid 20th century.

• Russia (Siberia – Mir, mostly purple dia monds) – from kimberlites in 1950s until now.

• Canada (north-west territories – Diavik mine in 2003, pinkish-purple diamonds, and Northern Ontario – Victor mine in 2006, light pink) – from kimberlite, for the past 10 years.

• Lesotho (23,82ct pink rough diamond from the Kao mine) – in 2014 from kimberlite.

It is interesting to note that some diamonds from different countries (like Russia and Canada) have very similar characteristics regarding colour (more purple than pink) and gemmological characteristics (no fluorescence, type la), indicative of the similar geological environments in which they were formed.

“Pink-coloured diamonds are rare, especially in Canada. I’m thrilled, on behalf of the Ontario government, to present this 2,74ct pink diamond as the first pink diamond from the De Beers Victor mine, cut and polished in Ontario,” says Michael Gravelle, Canadian Minister of Natural Resources.

Pink diamonds of type lla (like the 59,60ct Pink Star) could be much larger than Argyle pink diamonds and have a characteristic “tatami pat-

tern” under cross-polarised filters (CPF), without showing any fluorescence or only a faint reaction under UV lamp. Natural type lla diamonds may be extremely large and of high clarity, but normally contain some graining. Pink diamonds from Central Africa, Canada and Siberia tested at GRS labs also do not show fluorescence under the LW UV lamp and have very different “fingerprints” in spectra (impurity positions) when tested with advanced instruments (UV-VIS, FTIR and PL spectrometers), so it is possible to distinguish them from Argyle pinks.

In 2014/15, GRS and CGL_GRS labs compiled an impressive database of all current major pink diamond-producing countries using standard and advanced instruments. Production from new sources will be tested as they become available.

Screening for natural and synthetic diamond types Approximately 97% of all natural diamonds are considered type la, with the presence of nitrogen (N). These can occur in all colours, including purple and pink. One percent of all diamonds are orangey-yellow to brown type lb, while less than 25% are type lla colourless, pink or light brown. Type lla and llb diamonds are the rarest of diamonds due to the absence of nitrogen impurities, but type llb stones contain boron and are therefore blue.

Synthetic diamonds are created using either high pressure, high temperature (HPHT) or carbon vapour deposition (CVD). Nowadays, sizes from 0,50-1,50ct are common. These processes can produce near-colourless type lla, yellow type lb, pink type lb or lla (after annealing and irradiation), and blue type lla (new GRS research – see http// www.gemresearch.ch/news/2013-11-07_BlueDiamond/CVD-BlueDiamond.pdf), as well as type llb. As such, knowing the approximate diamond type is a great help in the initial screening of diamonds. Some instruments, like the type lla diamond spotter developed by SSEF, are not enough to identify possible synthetic or treated origins of diamonds. It can only screen if a diamond is transparent to UV and if it is low in nitrogen, indicating a type lla, llb or a rare type laB. Visually, natural and synthetic diamonds can look very similar when comparing size, cut, colour and clarity. Their commercial values differ significantly, however, which highlights the importance of detection and disclosure.

For example, coloured synthetics can easily cost 50-60% less than their natural counterparts.

In the case of colourless lab-growns, the price difference is around 30-40%.

The CPF method is relatively simple and inexpensive to set up, and only requires a set of two linear polarisation filters (or a portable po-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

GEMMOLOGY

lariscope) that are attached to any microscope or portable light source. To use the CPF method, position the suspected diamond between the CP filters and rotate it in transmitted light to observe birefringence patterns (“strain”). In combination with the simple CPF method, the fluorescence technique can be used to screen for diamond types and help identify a possible synthetic origin of a coloured diamond.

The procedures explained here are relatively simple, easy to learn and inexpensive.

A CPF set and UV lamp costs about $500. In the light of several occurrences of salted parcels of undisclosed diamonds reported in the past few years, vigilance and an understanding of gemmological tools are critical to ensuring confidence in the supply line. CGL-GRS offers workshops on the use of standard instruments in screening for natural, treated and synthetic diamonds. The next one will be held at the second Mediterranean Gemmological & Jewellery Conference in Valencia, Spain, from 5-7 May 2016 (visit: www.gemconference.com).

Synthetic diamond producers such as AOTC Canada (HPHT-grown) and Scio Diamonds USA (CVD-grown) increased their production of pink diamonds by 5-10% over the past five years to meet higher consumer demand for more affordable, but still colour-stable pink labgrown diamonds.

GRS and CGL-GRS labs acquired pink CVDgrown diamonds from a new producer – Orion (PDC), Hong Kong – and compared them with pink diamonds of different origin from our research collection that includes natural pink diamonds from Argyle, natural pink non-Argyle diamonds from six different locations, CVD-grown plus irradiated and annealed pink diamonds by Scio Diamonds USA, HPHT-enhanced, irradiated and annealed natural pink diamonds, HPHTgrown and irradiated pink diamonds by Chatham USA, HPHT-grown and irradiated diamonds by a Russian producer, HPHT-grown and HPHT-grown and irradiated diamonds by AOTC, Canada.

Characteristics of HPHT-grown diamonds AOTC, Chatham and Gemesis employ a traditional temperature gradient method to grow their stones. The capsule contains “seeds” and metal-based material that will act as a solvent for the graphite and a catalyst to enable crystal growth. Nitrogen enters the growth capsule, making most of the synthetic diamond yellow, but it could be irradiated to produce a pink colour or nitrogen could be “removed” to produce colourless stones. The majority of synthetic crystals are 1-4ct, or 0,502,0ct once they are polished. Even diamonds as big as 5ct polished, near-colourless, HPHT-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

grown diamonds were made in Russia by New Diamond Technologies in February 2015.

Twenty years ago, when these lab-grown diamonds entered the market, they were small and included (Sl1-l2) and it was easy to separate them from natural stones based on triangular metallic incisions. But growing technology improved and over 70% of HPHT-grown diamonds are VS or better clarity. Luckily, due to irradiation treatment, HPHT-grown pink diamonds have a characteristic, strong orangeyred reaction under both LW and SW UV light and this is a good screening technique to pick up these stones, even from parcels of melee pink diamonds or mounted stones. These diamonds are grown in a relatively short time in very stable, controlled environments and will not show any pattern (stress) under CPF. Characteristics of CVD-grown diamonds In 2014, GRS and CGL-GRS reported on a new generation of Orion PDC Hong Kong pink CVD-grown diamonds of much more “naturallooking” fancy colours of all sizes (orangey-pink and purplish-pink) and higher clarity (VVS-VS) that are in the market. They are harder to identify than HPHT-grown pink diamonds using standard gemmological instruments. In this clarity range, it is not possible to distinguish them from pink natural diamonds by simply using a loupe or microscope. In some CVD stones, black inclusions (assumed to be nondiamond carbon) are visible and when located in one plane perpendicular to the direction of growth, they are a reliable indicator of the diamonds’ CVD origin. Blackish, irregular clouds that are found in this CVD-grown pink diamond from PDC are also a reliable indicator.

All new pink-coloured CVD samples are type lla, very low-nitrogen diamonds. Observed between CPF, they produce two general patterns: a natural-looking pattern similar to the “tatami pattern” of type lla natural diamonds and a “columnar pattern” typical of CVD-grown diamonds.

A quick screening of loose and mounted pink diamonds is possible by using UV illumination in a dark room. A strong pinkish-orange (LW=SW) reaction is observed in type lla pink CVD-grown diamonds.

In cases where the diamond is determined to be a type lla based on the “tatami pattern”, it is important to refer it to an advanced lab to determine whether the colour is natural, treated or the stone is CVD-grown. After an initial screening with standard instruments, most pink diamonds should be tested with additional spectroscopic analysis to confirm their synthetic origin, because multi-step treated natural diamonds can also show strong orange

fluorescence under UV light.

Gerald McGuire, President and CEO of the Scio Diamond Technology Corporation, says: “SDT routinely makes rough gems in the 3-5ct range and along with our joint development partner, Renaissance Diamonds Inc, we are delivering 1-2ct finished gems. Scio Diamonds announced a joint venture with partners in China to produce CVD-grown diamonds at a much lower cost. Scio Diamonds is currently producing high-quality lab-grown pink diamonds that are priced reasonably and within the reach of many customers who favour pinks.”

A rosy future These days, consumers are very conscious of product origin. In addition to demanding Fair Trade coffee, there has been a growing interest in knowing where coloured diamonds are coming from. Dealers and jewellers should both be ready to provide the answer. It is reported

by Partnership Africa Canada, an active member of the Kimberley Process, that diamonds (including pink diamonds) from Venezuela (Santa Elena, on the Brazilian border) are illegally transported to Brazil and Guyana, and exported further through the Kimberley Process chain. These authorities are asking to exclude Brazil and Venezuela from the Kimberley Process if they cannot halt the illegal transport of diamonds from their territories. Rio Tinto Diamonds in Australia and Canada is following all the rules implemented by governments regarding tracking its diamonds, and it is believed that consumers are willing to pay an extra premium in order to know that their diamonds are coming from those conflict-free countries. Many labs, including GRS Lab (Hong Kong) Ltd, have joined the Kimberley Process.

Gemmology is evolving and more advanced instruments are being used in gem labs for routine testing of diamonds and coloured gems.

The most widely used methods for separation of natural, treated and synthetic diamonds are optical methods (absorption and photoluminescence) that are used in gem labs to identify these stones.

Representatives from GRS and CGL-GRS labs and other researchers on coloured and synthetic gems and diamonds will present their findings at the second Mediterranean Gemmological & Jewellery Conference in Valencia, Spain, next year.

Finally, it is possible to separate natural pink diamonds from all categories of treated and/or laboratory-grown diamonds, loose or mounted, of any size, by using a combination of standard and advanced gemmological instruments.

– Reprinted with permission from InColor, Spring 2015, Issue 28

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BRAND MANAGEMENT

Cartier re-invents the crown It may have seemed straightforward to create a form based on a perfect circle, but for the concept of Clé de Cartier timepieces, this proved a challenge.

However, subtlety and restraint – shapes are pared down and reduced to their essence – as well as precision, balance and proportion were the solution. The Swiss watchmaker has a history of creating inventive crowns and its newest collection, Clé de Cartier, upholds that heritage. This is the watch’s most distinctive feature, as is the inspiration for its name.

“Clé” is the French word for “key” and the crown’s resemblance to a key is unmistakable.

Based on the early traditional turning of a key to wind a clock, the size and dimensions of the crown make it easy to activate and it is an object in its own right. Elongated and pure, it is adorned with a sapphire ingeniously inserted to remain flush with the metal surrounding it. This new winding

mechanism has been especially developed to be user-friendly. It incorporates a system that makes setting the time remarkably simple. After making the necessary adjustment, the crown can be pushed back with ease, returning it to its vertical position without moving the hands. The act of turning the crown and pushing it back creates a gentle clicking sound.

The shape of the case is unconventional, based on a simple circle. It appears ovoid at first glance, rather like a pebble and somewhat similar to a few watches from the 1960s and ’70s. However, the details of the architecture are remarkable. Its elegant contours along the curved, horn-shaped lugs and case-back hug the wrist comfortably.

The design is available in case sizes of 40, 35 and 31 mm.

The movement is powered by a new Cartier automatic calibre which has a power reserve of 42 hours. The cutting-edge technology was developed, manufactured and assembled in

Switzerland, drawing on the brand’s expertise in watchmaking. Originally launched earlier this year at SIHH as a unisex model, it is now available in both men’s and women’s versions in a choice of white, yellow and rose gold.

This new approach to timekeeping joins the ranks of the brand’s Santos, Tank and Ballon Bleu.

Inspired by the love of music Music has proved to be a long-standing source of inspiration for a Geneva watch brand. This is no doubt linked to its founder, Raymond Weil, who was a passionate music-lover. The brand has created new collections, each linked to some form of music-making.

Weil’s grandson, Elie Bernheim, shares this love of music, particularly the cello, which inspired the brand’s newest model, the Nabucco Cello Tourbillon. This incorporates many of its core values through the model’s haute horlogerie finishes.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

The watch has fine, clean-cut lines, creating a striking contrast with the gentleness of the musical instrument that inspired it. It embodies a clever intertwining of components which evoke the theme of the cello and enlivening the mechanical hand-wound movement.

Both sides of the watch case are fitted with sapphire crystals, ensuring transparency and precision. For example, the movement bridge supporting the tourbillon escapement and mainspring barrel take the form of the instrument’s distinctive F-holes, while the slender hands are shaped like a cello bow and the five lines of a musical stave are represented in the grooved bezel.

The model’s most striking features, however, are the four tiny strings which are stretched taut across the dial of the watch between the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, combined with the F-hole shaped bridges to create the illusion of a miniature instrument. These musical elements of the mechanism were created inhouse by the brand’s Research & Development Department, which was established in 1999.

The tourbillon cage makes major adjustments through a compensatory element.

The lightness of the rotating cage of a tour-

billon skeleton watch echoes the steel and aluminium 46 mm diameter case, to whose black PVD-coated sides carbon fibre adds the finishing touch. The timepiece is set on a genuine crocodile leather strap.

Each watch will be presented in a specially designed box reflecting its musical elements on a larger scale, echoing the quality and craftsmanship of a traditional hand-made cello.

The luxury Swiss watchmaker has announced yet another new product in collaboration with Gibson brands, the fastest-growing ones in the music industry. The forces combined to create a special watch in a steel and titanium case of 46 mm. The self-tuning Gibson SG Standard provided additional inspiration and this design re-invents them on the black dial.

The six grooves symbolise the six strings of the SG Standard and display the Gibson logo and iconic emblem at 12 o’clock. The case is finished with a refined grey ceramic tachymeter bezel. This self-winding chronograph has a 46hour power reserve and features 27 jewels.

The Nabucco range now spearheads the Raymond Weil collections and showcases the brand’s expertise in creating horological masterpieces.

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BRAND MANAGEMENT

Watch nominations for prestigious event Nominations for the prestigious annual European Watch of the Year 2015 are well in progress, with a large number of watch houses already having named their entrants. The event is organised by the world’s leading luxury watch magazine – the UK’s 0024 WatchWorld – which this year is named “the Stockholm Edition”.

Each year, watchmakers, jewellers and lovers of watches look forward to this competition, which is judged by a jury, assisted by the magazine’s readers and visitors to its website.

Of particular interest this year is Hublot’s tribute to iconic South African statesman and human rights activist Nelson Mandela and the legacy he left to his family. The brand has unveiled the Hublot classic Fusion House of Mandela. The company and the designer consider this an honour. Created in 18ct gold, this timepiece is available in a gents’ model in a 42 mm diameter case, as well as a ladies’ version, its bezel set with 35 diamonds on a black alligator strap. This special edition is limited to 95 pieces, symbolising the number of years Madiba lived. The dial features the token of the Mandela family, a bee with outstretched branch, symbolising the various branches of the clan.

Bell & Ross BR 01 Skull Bronze Tourbillon brings to life a metal from pre-history featuring a 46 mm square case in aged bronze, the skull engraved, which has a hand-wound

movement with four complications. These are tourbillon, regulator, accuracy indicator and power reserve. It is mounted on a distressed brown alligator leather strap and combines the sophistication of an exceptional mechanical movement, a case reminiscent of the past and the provocative symbolic resonance of the skull. It will be presented in a box made of precious wood which has at its centre a glass dome, allowing admirers to gaze on the legend and marvel at this unique watch. The timepiece was unveiled at the Monaco Yacht Show in September.

A watch made of 797 components is the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot, 575 of which are required to make the fusée train transmission of the highly complicated movement. This is an anniversary, not merely a birthday piece.

Parmigliani Fleurier unveiled a new creation earlier this year which was inspired by music.

Named the Tonda Tourbillon Solo de Jazz, which refers to the renowned Montreux Jazz Festival, this timepiece proudly bears the banner of this music genre and has universal appeal.

Each piece of the marquetry on the dial has to be adjusted with great precision and there is no glue, joints or clearance between them. It uses marquetry, a highly precise craft

which – unlike jazz – has no room for improvisation and requires heightened sensitivity. The artist must use each grain of wood to create the harmonious background of the dial in muted shades. The musician’s face is made from peartree wood to represent the skin, walnut for the natural effects of the folds of his shirt and birch for the jacket. The trumpet is made of Ceylon lemontree wood and boxwood. This wealth of detail is mounted on a strap of Havana brown alligator with a rose gold buckle.

Other contenders for the prestigious title of “Watch of the Year” include Audemars Piguet’s lap-timer with a mechanical memory, a version of IWC’s Portuguese design, Chopard, Jaeger LeCoultre and many more. Watch this space!

New classic moonphase A new Classic Moonphase timepiece of inhouse manufacture has been released by Swiss manufacturer Frédérique Constant.

Since 2004, the company has been based in ultra-modern premises of 2 973 m2 in Planles-Ouates, Geneva, where it has created its own timepieces. Each watch is hand-assembled, checked and controlled at length by both human hands and high-frequency machines to ensure reliability.

This year the brand developed and introduced its 19th calibre, the new FC715, for which its designer has created a moonphase complication. Visible on the outside is the beautiful, classic and elegant timepiece and on the inside is the highly technical and refined, precision-made movement.

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In the tradition of the finest watchmaking, the classic manufacture moonphase is presented in a 42,5 mm case in two versions – stainless steel or rose gold-plated finish. The silvered disc of the moonphase features night

and day dials with baton-shaped, dauphine hands – single or double – and a night sky with the moon and stars, adding a cosmic touch.

It has a 42-hour power reserve which drives the moonphase, date, hours, minutes and seconds, all adjusted by a single crown.

The sapphire crystal case-back reveals the performance of the movement, which is decorated with Côtes de Genève and has blue screws and a gold-plated rotor. The watch is set on a choice of black or brown alligator skin and has a pin buckle with the Frédérique Constant crest engraved on it.

This family-owned company is innovative in all stages of the watch’s production process, from the initial design to final assembly and quality control.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

BRAND MANAGEMENT

Rare vintage pocket watch auctioned A rare vintage pocket watch that will forever be a part of English history went under the hammer at Sotheby’s auction sale in London during September. More than an exquisite masterpiece, it has an illustrious provenance.

One of only four individual pieces produced for Allied leaders of World War II, this particular timepiece was made specifically for one of Britain’s greatest statesmen, Sir Winston Churchill. Its design was the result of collaboration between leading watchmaker Louis Cottier and manufacturer Agassiz & Co, who invented the World Time mechanism of this vintage piece and creates designs for Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe. These were commissioned by a group of prominent Swiss dignitaries, this one honouring Sir Winston’s wartime and post-war contributions. The other three were presented to France’s General de Gaulle, Russia’s Josef Stalin and American President Harry Truman.

It is an exceptional victory watch designed as a symbol of courage and leadership, inscribed “1943”. This year marks exactly seven decades since the end of World War II and 50 years since the death of Churchill.

The watch has a distinctive enamel dial which shows England’s patron, St George, slaying the dragon, the hour hand a trident – a symbol of good triumphing over evil and brightness triumphing over darkness. These were emblematic of Churchill’s strength and courageousness during the war. Engraved on the case-back is: “V” for “victory”, together with a personalised dedication: “1939 – Prime Minister Sir Winston Curchill – 1945”. It is as if Sir Winston has been re-imagined as a modern-day hero. He received the gift in 1946 and treasured it greatly.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

Wrist candy from Rado Timepieces in sumptuous chocolate brown high ceramic constitute the new collection from Rado, which it describes as “wrist candy”.

These models from the HyperChrome family are one-of-a-kind from the brand, which is known for its everyday elegance. It has added three chocolate-coloured models: the HyperChrome Automatic, the Hyper Chrome Automatic Chronograph Tachymeter and the Limited Edition HyperChrome Diamonds.

They come in three sizes and are coated in a luminous earthen hue with chic rose gold-coloured accents.

They will remain objects of everlasting beauty due to the brand’s high-tech ceramic properties. The rich brown colour will never fade, claims Rado. The range is scratch-resistant and lightweight; while the innovative material

also adapts to the wearer’s body temperature and is a new addition to the brand’s high-tech metallic range.

The company – based in Lengnau, Switzerland – pioneered the inaugural black theme decades ago, followed by pristine white and then elegant grey, all with a metallic plasma.

It created consistent colours in its ceramic processes – a factor which is notoriously difficult, but it has mastered the art. Its latest innovation, like the collection’s predecessor, is available in both polished and matte finishes.

Rado is recognised globally for its imaginative designs, which use revolutionary materials in creating some of the world’s most durable watches. These three cocoa-coloured models are indicative of the brand’s pioneering spirit and imagination.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015

MARKETPLACE

Contact Adri Viviers on 084-261-1805 or sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za

LITTLE GEMS

A gem of a town

THE DISCOVERY OF PRECIOUS stones provided the incentive to create an impressive gemproducing industry – gemstones have been worked in the area since the 16th century. The town indirectly experienced a renewed boom with the discovery of agate deposits in Brazil by German immigrants The basis for the development of its manufacture at Idar-Oberstein lay in the resources of the concentrates and finds of agate, as well as good local sandstone for the cutting and polishing wheel, with major available water power from the River Nahe to work them. The first recorded documents of these operations recovered are dated 1548.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, some 30 workshops for cutting agate were established using the river for electricity. By the 19th century, this number had grown to 153 cutting shops. In more recent times, with the use of steam power and the advent of electrical energy, manufacturers produced anything from goblets to beads and production has been somewhat decentralised to workshops around the district. Nevertheless, Idar-Oberstein has established its own gemstone industries, specialising almost exclusively in producing agate.

By the early 20th century, the town had become a powerhouse in the field of chemistry and this knowledge was applied to the gem industry. It continued innovating and created superior technologies in the chemical process, which included a secret dyeing procedure.

Agate was also used for cameos, its layers ideal for carving the images featured thereon. While Idar-Oberstein focused on producing objects, the art of cameo-caving moved to Torre del Greco in Italy, where it is centred today. Some years ago, en route to Capri, I watched the callused hands of the artisans reveal wondrous miniature works of art made possible by the different layers of colours which their carvings exposed.

After World War II, Idar-Oberstein needed to find a new niche for itself. To do so, it built on its previous tradition. Gem traders moved away from agate and invested heavily in mines in Brazil and Africa which produced rough of many different types of gemstones.

Idar-Oberstein became a trading centre of rough and cut stones. With the large supplies of agate and gemstone rough, artists were able to choose the perfect material for their designs. A new generation of them was born in the 20th century, including some of the best gem-cutters of the era, such as Bernd Munsteiner, known to aficionados as the “Picasso

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The town of Idar-Oberstein in Germany’s Rhineland is known as the gem centre of Europe and has a 500-year history of working with gemstones. Alice Weil explains how the first major activities began when miners found agate and amethyst in the area. of gems”. He created fantasy gems from large stones using his keen instincts and the depth of the rough to unveil the best possible attributes of a given mineral through strategically placed facet shapes, a technique known as the “context cut”. He left a family legacy to be continued by his son, Tom. Agate is historically one of the most common materials used in the art of hard stone carving. It was used extensively in ancient times, particularly in the Bronze Age and the Minoan culture. It is a variety of silica, particularly chalcedony, a banded, shell-like material of which quartz fibres are orientated vertically. Some agate is formed from silicrified fossil shells, specifically spiral freshwater gastropods which have elongated. Greek agate is the name given to white to tan-coloured agate which has been found in Sicily dating back to 400BC. The Greeks used it for making jewellery and beads.

The Sumerians and Egyptians utilised it for decoration and in religious ceremonies.

The present-day Brazilian quality is interlaced with white and grey, which creates a startling specimen when cut opposite the successive bands, but is often dyed for ornamental purposes. Other forms include the Lake Superior variety, cornelian agate (which has a reddish hue), Botswana agate, blue lace agate and others.

The material used to be recovered from large and heavy blocks split with hammer and chisel along fissures. Today, almost without exception, it is sawed with a diamond-studded circular saw, but some machines have been developed which cut flat stones automatically.

The agate is shaped roughly on a wheel coated with water and the final shaping is done on a sandstone wheel. The stone is given its lustre in the final polishing, which is done slowly on a rotating cylinder of beechwood, which shows up the fine structural lines.

Types of jewellery for which agate is used include pins and brooches. It is also used for making mortars and pestles due to its hardness and ability to resist acids. It is a unique industry created in and around Idar-Oberstein, with its highly favourable natural resources.

Agate was used extensively in ancient times, particularly in the Bronze Age and the Minoan culture.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – NOVEMBER 2015