SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • May 2024 • Watch & clock edition

WE LOOK AT

Watches and Wonders reaches new heights

DNA jewellery: Special keepsakes

The power of referrals

Homegrown creativity

The Science of Colored Stone

GIA research and reports are the benchmark of colored stone analysis. Those who buy, sell, or curate the world’s most important gems rely on GIA's expertise, precision, objectivity, and integrity.

DATES: Sunday, 8th September & Monday, 9th September 2024

VENUE: The Wanderers Club, 21 North Street, Illovo, Johannesburg

BOOKINGS: elsad@jewellery.org.za or lornal@jewellery.org.za

925 | 9ct | 14ct | 18ct | 22ct

Casting Fee Per Flask - Small R160.00 | Medium R 320.00 | Large R 500 |

Sprue-up Fee R 50.00

PLATINUM CASTINGS

PtAu | PtCu R 75.00/g FINISHING SERVICES

925 | 9ct | 14ct | 18ct | 22ct

Semi-Finishing Fee - R 70.00/g

PtAu | PtCu

Semi-Finishing Fee - R 100.00/g

925 | 9ct | 14ct | 18ct | 22ct Full Finishing Fee - R 160.00/g |

PtAu | PtCu

Finishing Fee - R 250.00/g

SETTING SERVICES

8. NEWS

• AGTA bans lab-grown gemstones from shows

• De Beers Group rough diamond sales for Cycle 2

• Botswana’s Okavango becomes first non-mining member of the NDC

• Jewellex Africa 2024 stand sales open

• Hong Kong and Bangkok shows: Buyer incentives for SA jewellery-buyers

12. DEVELOPMENT INITIATIVE

Rand Refinery is reinforcing its continued commitment and support to the local jewellery industry

16. WATCHES AND WONDERS 2024 REACHES NEW HEIGHTS

Watches and Wonders came to a close, setting both new records and a positive tone for the industry overall

20. HOMEGROWN CREATIVITY

SA boasts some stylish watch brands that are making waves with designs which are both functional and fashionable

22. THE POWER OF REFERRALS

The nature of consumer loyalty has changed, says Liezel Jonkheid, Director and founder of Consumer Psychology Lab

24. SPOTLIGHT INTERVIEW

House of Ayi designer Andile Makaula reveals what drew him to jewellery designing and where he finds his inspiration

26. DNA JEWELLERY: SPECIAL KEEPSAKES

A niche trend, this treasured jewellery contains personal elements such as cremation ashes, locks of hair, breastmilk or umbilical cord

31. EDUCATIONAL INSERT

A closer look at the micro-world of gemstones

40. LUXURY WATCHES

The allure of owning a luxury watch remains high among consumers

42. WATCH OUT!

With its latest creations, Rolex brings a fresh, new look to some of its most iconic models

44. BORN IN AFRICA

A comprehensive directory featuring information and contact details of all members of the Jewellery Manufacturing Association of South Africa

Editor: Adri Viviers

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

Cell: 084-261-1805

E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za

Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed

E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

Operations Director: Thuli Majola

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za

Advertising Sales:

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

Cell: 083-450-6052

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

Design and layout: Joanne Brook

E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

Editor's note

AT THE END OF 2023, THE SWISS WATCH industry concluded the year on a positive note, achieving record sales totalling US$29,4 billion, with US$28 billion attributed to wristwatches (+7,7%) sold in a total of 16,9 million units, according to Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult.

With the rising adoption of strategies by key players, the global watch market is also anticipated to rise at a considerable rate from 2024-2031.

Broader tastes and more transparency when it comes to watches are making for a fun 2024.

In Geneva, doors opened on 9 April to the year’s biggest watch event, Watches and Wonders 2024, which saw plenty of new releases worth getting excited about. The 2024 event was massive, with 54 brands exhibiting (up from 38 just two years ago). This means that there were literally hundreds of new watches from stalwarts like Rolex, Tudor and Patek Philippe, as well as brands new to the show. In this issue, we look at some of the timepieces that grabbed our attention at the event.

South Africa also boasts some stylish watch brands which are making waves

with designs that are both functional and fashionable. We look at three such proudly home-grown brands.

This issue also shares how Rand Refinery, one of the world’s leading LBMA gold and silver refiners and an operator of one of the continent’s low-grade gold recovery smelters, is reinforcing its continued commitment and support to the local jewellery industry.

Liezel Jonkheid, Director and founder of Consumer Psychology Lab, examines how the nature of consumer loyalty has changed in a world where recommendations flow easily across social networks and digital platforms.

SAJN also talks to House of Ayi designer Andile Makaula about what drew him to the jewellery and fashion design and where his concepts come from.

We hope you enjoy this issue and look forward to your feedback.

Happy reading!

Adri Viviers

James Ralph Pty Ltd is the official distributor of Casio products in Southern Africa and prides itself on its service and support. Innovative products bring joy, create new lifestyles, new trends and pave the way for related economies – especially if they have been developed by Casio.

For more information on any of its Casio products, or to become an authorised Casio retailer, contact James Ralph on tel: (011) 314-8888 or e-mail: info@jamesralph.com.

GIA introduces printed AGS Ideal Reports

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is now offering printed AGS Ideal Reports. This report complements a GIA diamond grading report to capture a diamond’s beauty holistically. The AGS Ideal Report measures light performance, including brightness, fire and contrast, from centre to edge.

The AGS Ideal Report is available with the following GIA reports: Diamond Grading Report, Diamond Dossier, LaboratoryGrown Diamond Report, Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report Dossier, eReport and Diamond Focus Report.

The fee for the printed AGS Ideal Report is in addition to the price for the service. GIA will offer printed AGS Ideal Reports for clients with previously issued digital AGS Ideal Reports without having to resubmit the stone to GIA.

De Beers Group rough diamond sales for Cycle 2

The De Beers Group has announced the value of rough diamond sales for the second sales cycle of 2024. The provisional rough diamond sales figure quoted for Cycle 2 represents the expected sales value for the period and remains subject to adjustment based on final completed sales.

Cycle 2, 2024 (provisional)1

“I'm pleased to see a further increase in demand for De Beers rough diamonds during the second sales cycle of 2024,” said De Beers Group CEO Al Cook. “However, ongoing economic uncertainty in the USA has led to retailers restocking conservatively after the 2023 holiday season. Consumer demand for diamond jewellery is growing in India, but remains sluggish in China. Overall, we expect that the ongoing recovery in rough diamond demand will be gradual as we move through the year.”

Jewellex Africa 2024 stand sales open

Stand sales are open for Jewellex Africa, the continent’s leading jewellery trade show, which is set to return to the Wanderers Club in Illovo, Johannesburg, on 8-9 September.

Organised by the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA), Jewellex Africa boasts a rich history of connecting industry professionals, buyers and jewellery enthusiasts. This year’s edition once again promises to be exceptional, offering a captivating experience for all.

“Due to demand, we’ve expanded the show to accommodate a larger selection of exhibitors and look forward to working

with the industry to make Jewellex Africa a remarkable success once more,” says Lorna Lloyd, JCSA CEO.

Prospective exhibitors are invited to contact Elsa da Silva for more information on tel: (011) 484-5528 or 082-214-0028, or e-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za.

Hong Kong and Bangkok shows: Buyer incentives for SA jewellery buyers

Potential South African jewellery-buyers who are members of the JCSA have been invited to attend the Hong Kong and Bangkok shows listed below. Those interested in attending them can visit the link to the e-application for the hosted buyer programmes.

For further information, contact Elsa da Silva at the JCSA on tel: (011) 484-5528 or 082-214-0028 or e-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za.

Jewellery & Gem ASEAN Bangkok

Jewellery & Gem ASIA Hong Kong

Jewellery & Gem WORLD Hong Kong

1-4/5/2024 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre (QSNCC)

20-23/6/2024 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC)

16-20/9/2024

18-22/9 2024

AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong (AWE) Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC)

One room (single/double/twin) three nights' hotel accommodation for each company at designated four-star hotels in Bangkok.

Hosted Buyer badge

Use of Buyer Lounge at the fairground Fair Reception/Networking event (if any)

One room (single/double/twin) three nights' hotel accommodation for each company at designated four-star hotels in Hong Kong.

Hosted Buyer badge

Use of Buyer Lounge at the fairground Fair Reception/Networking event (if any)

One room (single/double/twin) four nights' hotel accommodation for each company at designated four-star hotels in Hong Kong.

Hosted Buyer badge

Use of Buyer Lounge at the fairground Fair Reception/Networking

AGTA bans lab-grown gemstones from shows

The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) has declared its trade shows synthetic-free zones from next year.

Starting at the AGTA GemFair Tucson 2025, the organisation will not allow exhibitors to display loose laboratory-grown stones or jewellery comprising them, it said in a statement. The ban also applies to labgrown diamonds.

AGTA, based in Dallas, Texas, describes itself as the “authoritative source on natural coloured gemstones”. Its shows are among the most important events on the colouredgemstone industry calendar, with more than 8 000 buyers and 300 exhibitors attending the annual Tucson fair every February.

Synthetic sales will also be banned at the AGTA pavilion at JCK Las Vegas from 2025, the spokesperson added.

“AGTA wanted to make it crystal-clear to buyers that when they attend an AGTA show, they know that they’re only shopping mined natural gems from the earth,” said Kimberly Collins, President of the AGTA board of directors and owner of Kimberly Collins Colored Gems. “AGTA dealers pride

themselves on sourcing superior gems that are rare, beautiful and natural.”

Synthetic gemstones lack the inherent value and dichotomy of colour that their natural counterparts possess, the statement added.

“AGTA was founded in 1981 to represent the interests of wholesale dealers of natural gemstones, cultured and natural pearls,” commented AGTA CEO John Ford. “The board’s decision is consistent with the core purpose upon which AGTA was founded.”

AGTA said it recognised the Gemological Institute of America’s definition of synthetic gems as “man-made material with essentially the same chemical composition, crystal structure and optical and physical properties as the natural gem material”.

Synthetic gems, however, are not minerals, AGTA noted – citing the British Geological Survey ’s and US Geological Survey ’s definitions of a mineral, which require them to be natural.

The delayed implementation of the ban is due to contracts AGTA has already signed for 2024 shows, the spokesperson explained. – Rapaport

Botswana’s Okavango becomes first non-mining member of NDC

The Okavango Diamond Company (ODC) has joined the Natural Diamond Council (NDC), becoming its first member outside of the mining industry.

The ODC, Botswana’s government-owned rough marketing company, signed with the NDC in an effort to spread awareness of the country’s diamond industry, the two said.

“The ODC believes strongly in building customer confidence, which we feel blends seamlessly with the NDC’s mission of expanding consumer awareness across the market,” said ODC MD Mmetla Masire. “We look forward to working with the NDC to further our mission of providing the Botswana government with a direct route to market for its rough diamonds and supporting the ongoing transformation of Botswana into a leading rough natural diamond-sourcing destination.”

Last year, the ODC reached a new agreement with De Beers that will see it sell a greater share of rough within the country.

The company will initially receive 30% of production from Debswana, a joint venture between De Beers and the government. That figure will increase progressively to 50% over the duration of the 10-year agreement. Okavango sells over 6 million carats of rough per year, all sourced from Debswana.

In addition to welcoming the ODC as a new member, the NDC will onboard Masire to its board of directors.

“The ODC is a leading nation in setting the standards for the responsible management of its natural resources,” said NDC CEO David Kellie. “The ODC’s membership of the NDC allows us to share the story of the Botswana natural diamond industry more widely with the world. We look forward to inspiring more consumers with the incredible story of Botswana’s diamonds and the positive impact they have on Batswana. It’s a story to which consumers around the world are responding strongly.” – Rapaport

Rand Refinery reinforces commitment to local industry

Rand Refinery, one of the world’s leading LBMA gold and silver refiners and an operator of one of the continent’s low-grade gold recovery smelters, is reinforcing its continued commitment and support to the local jewellery industry.

THROUGH ITS LONG-STANDING GOLD

Zone initiative, Rand Refinery is investing in reinvigorating local talent within the jewellery manufacturing sector.

The Silver and Gold Mentorship Programmes, established in partnership with the Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project (EJP), NQ Jewellers and the SA Diamond and Precious Metals Regulator, have seen remarkable success since their inception in 2021. These programmes have celebrated the graduation of 42 small, medium and microenterprises (SMMEs) since 2022.

In 2024, Rand Refinery aims to further enhance its support with an enriched SMME curriculum and the introduction of personal coaching, in collaboration with Thietso Academy. The initiative underscores Rand Refinery’s commitment and dedication to nurturing a diverse talent pool in a promising, but under-invested industry.

Through the programmes, the refinery will facilitate the transfer of knowledge and skills to new generations of future jewellers. This will not only ensure the sustainability of the industry, but also uplift the community by providing valuable skills that can lead to economic empowerment. Furthermore, investing in the industry will create employment opportunities, particularly in areas like design, manufacturing, marketing and retail.

“In the South African context, particularly, this has a positive impact on local economies and contributes to reducing unemployment,” says Praveen Baijnath, CEO of Rand Refinery and Chairperson of EJP.

Rand Refinery will also be approving further capital investment for the technical and commercial campus upgrade, incorporating advanced jewellery technology to accommodate all students, including those with disabilities.

It has partnered with Intsika Beneficiation

Supporting local talent and industry contributes to community development and broader economic growth.

Projects to bolster its efforts in skills development for people living with disabilities through a learnership programme in jewellery design and manufacturing. Launched in 2020, the programme continues to make significant inroads in this specialist space. The company has been fully funding the learnership (ie the tuition costs and students’ stipends) for five consecutive years. To date, a total of 109 students have been trained and have progressed from NQF L2 to NQF L4. In 2023, Rand Refinery hosted a graduation programme for students with disabilities who completed NQF L3 and recently the 20 students who graduated completed NQF L4.

“By engaging directly with the jewellery manufacturing sector, we can promote and implement sustainable and ethical practices in the sourcing, processing and trading of precious metals. This can only improve the industry’s reputation and ensure long-term viability with known provenance practices. Supporting local talent and industry contributes to community development

and broader economic growth. It fosters an environment where local businesses can thrive, encouraging further investment and development in the region,” adds Baijnath.

Improvements for the 2024 intake process include a comprehensive assessment to identify and develop top jewellery design talent, ensuring participants are well-equipped to launch and grow their businesses successfully. Additionally, the Rand Refinery Enterprise Development Programme continues to support the Jewellery Village Store, enhancing market access for its participants.

Top-performing SMMEs have had the opportunity to present their designs at the Mining Indaba, showcasing local capabilities to a global audience.

“We take immense pride in our role of fostering growth through beneficiation and developing local talent. Witnessing these SMMEs present their work globally reaffirms the tremendous potential within SA, all made possible through the Rand Refinery Enterprise Development Initiative,” says Baijnath.

but our people, product and planet.

BRANDS PORTFOLIO

THE JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF SA (JCSA) commenced a process of restructuring in 2023 to increase its scope by incorporating a broader selection of companies into its membership base. By increasing the scope, refiners and other industry sectors such as gemstone dealers, diamond wholesalers, numismatists and supporting industries will be included under separate divisions with their respective committees and representation on the council’s board.

In this regard, a “Refiners” division has been established which will be incorporated with other divisions under the umbrella of the council. The other divisions represent manufacturers, wholesalers, retailers and service members.

The refiners are set to have their inaugural meeting at which they will elect a committee to handle all relevant matters, including government submissions, membership vetting, voting rights, etc.

In the process of planning and prioritising projects for this year, we have identified the need to meet face-to-face with members and discuss important issues which relate to their businesses, specifically legislative requirements. We are hoping to host annual roadshows in Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town, which will also offer members an opportunity to network and reconnect with each other in the various regions. Roadshows are sponsorship/financial support-dependent and we invite interested industry players to contact us, should our offering be attractive. The sponsorships will be offered to two or three companies which will share the costs of the roadshows. In return, we will provide them with display opportunities, branding opportunities, pamphlet handouts and direct meetings with industry players.

As mentioned in our previous message, Jewellex Africa 2024 will be taking place on 8-9 September, once again at the Wanderers Club in Illovo, Johannesburg. Three of the venues are almost fully booked!

An exciting addition to this year’s show is the offering of a Department of Trade, Industry & Competition (DTIC)-sponsored pavilion for 10-20 manufacturing jewellers. Companies which meet the criteria set out by the department may apply for funding

Council of SA update Jewellery

and successful applicants will enjoy the following benefits: the upfront payment of exhibition costs, freight costs, flights and accommodation. This is a great opportunity for emerging companies!

Regarding DTIC-funded international shows, the JCSA was forced to withdraw 10 companies’ applications for JCK Las Vegas due to increased show costs. New York Now, which will be taking place in August, is at application stage. A new show on the cards is JA New York, which will be taking place at the end of October and will offer high-end fine jewellers an opportunity to exhibit.

Many members are unaware that the Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association of SA offers the Professional Technical Skills Certificate, which is aimed at recognising the skills acquired by employees in the workplace.

A lot of informal training takes place in the workplace and this “Certificate” gives formal recognition and benefits to both the employee and the employer. To most, the title

and description of the qualification will not matter, but to someone who only knows that one job, this qualification is important, as it gives them a sense of achievement and pride. The following technical skills qualifications have been recognised: Bench Technician, CAD Technician, Indian Jewellery Bench Technician, Jewellery Casting Technician, Refining Technician, Surface Finishing Technician and Production Setter Technician.

For further information, please contact the council.

We encourage you to participate in and make use of the opportunities offered by the JCSA to get the most out of the relationship.

Enquiries about the council, its activities and how to become a part of a responsible jewellery community can be made by contacting us on tel: (011) 484-5528, e-mail: admin@jewellery.org.za or visiting: www.jewellery.org.za.

Lorna Lloyd Chief Executive Officer

Watches and Wonders 2024 reaches new heights

Watches and Wonders Geneva came to a close on 15 April, setting both new records and a positive tone for the industry overall.

BEYOND STEADY INCREASES IN THE NUMBER exhibitors, visitors and tickets sold, the event showcased an industry unified by a common drive to share excellence and savoir-faire. The evolution to include the general public, along with the In the City extension, have become key factors of its success.

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 welcomed over 49 000 visitors over the week (up 14% vs 2023), including 5 700 retailers and 1 500 journalists, who all came to discover the new introductions from 54 watch-making brands exhibiting across two levels this year.

The programme of activities which could be reserved by the public, including product presentations, guided tours, workshops and more, were fully booked before the first day of the event.

The hashtag #watchesandwonders2024 shot to the top of social networks, with an estimated reach of over 600 million people at closing time. The arrival of several celebrities set social media ablaze. Among them were supermodel Gisele Bundchen, tennis champion Coco Gauff and soccer superstar Kylian Mbappe.

Business also reached new heights, with over 10 000 retailer appointments (up 25% vs 2023), 1 800 Touch & Feel press sessions and a significant increase in end-clients placing orders.

Beyond the numbers, however, it was the spirit of Watches and Wonders Geneva that resonated with audiences. Throughout the week, the watch-making industry demonstrated its diversity as well as its unity around its cardinal values: innovation, craftsmanship, excellence and sharing.

Standout timepieces from Watches and Wonders 2024

 Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC –the world’s thinnest watch

Bvlgari unveiled its Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, regaining the crown for creating the thinnest watch on the planet.

At just 1,70 mm thick, this new version of the Octo Finissimo contains a 170-component manually wound movement with a tungsten carbide back for much-needed durability on such a slender piece.

 TAG Heuer’s famous square-form watch

TAG Heuer’s famous square-form watch is a dyed-in-the-wool 1970s classic that has recently been experiencing a phase of hightech revisionism. The case is in lightweight titanium, sandwiched between thick slabs of sapphire crystal that bring light streaming into the mechanism’s complexities via a distinctively architectural, skeletonised dial format.

 IWC’s Portugieser Eternal Calendar 45 million-year moon watch

With its Portugieser Eternal Calendar, IWC is dealing with some big numbers. The perpetual calendar function (showing days, months and years), for instance, is set up to run without any correction for 400 years (traditional perpetuals need adjustments once a century, if one is counting!). However, the accompanying moon-phase indication goes somewhat bigger: it is calculated to give an accurate representation of the moon’s waxing and waning for 45 million years, by which time it will have deviated by just one day.

 Patek Philippe’s 5530G – the date corrects itself

For the Patek Philippe 5530G, the date corrects itself either forward or backwards – a simple concept, but mechanically complex (and now patented by Patek), with a display that is itself innovative: a hand pointing to date numerals around the dial’s exterior is made from a hair-thin slice of glass, so as not to obscure the legibility of the other dial indications.

 Tudor’s Black Bay 58 dives for gold

Having made a gold version three years ago, Tudor now has a Black Bay 58 in yellow gold complete with 18ct gold bracelet. The whole 39 mm piece is fully matte and satin-finished and is water-resistant to 200 m, with 70 hours of power reserve.

 Bovet’s Récital 28 Prowess 1

Bovet makes some of the most exquisite complications in Swiss watch-making – with deep references that hark back to horology’s rich history. The premier Récital 28 Prowess from the brand is a shining example of that. At its core, a world timer can display the time in multiple time zones simultaneously, making it the perfect watch for travellers. However, one big issue with world timers is that they do not account for daylight-saving time changes. The Récital 28 Prowess 1 fixes that.

 Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2

Montblanc is one of the few brands leading the charge in sustainable watch-making without compromising watch engineering or design. The 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2 echoes this sentiment. The watch case is made from the brand’s CARBO2 durable nano-fibre, composite material. In short, CARBO2 is a process that captures CO2 from biogas production and mineral wastes from recycling factories.

The hashtag #watchesandwonders2024 shot to the top of social networks, with an estimated reach of over 600 million people at closing time. Business also reached new heights, with over 10 000 retailer appointments (up 25% vs 2023), 1 800 Touch & Feel press sessions and a significant increase in end-clients placing orders.

Stylish watch brands that are proudly South African

SA boasts some stylish watch brands that are making waves with designs that are both functional and fashionable.

LOCAL WATCH BRANDS ARE ALL PUSHING the boundaries of innovation and competing for a space in the market. LN Watches, Ledjoy and AmaBhengu Fashion are three such brands.

LN Watches

Lunga Ntuli, a young KwaZulu-Natal entrepreneur and community activist, is the founder of the LN range of African-inspired, individually hand-beaded watches. A former car guard, football and cricket coach, journalist and author-publisher of a series of popular relationship advice books, he comes from the small village of Groutville, home of SA’s first Nobel Peace Laureate, the late Chief Albert Luthuli. This is where Ntuli works with young people to create watches so original and striking that they have become an instant sensation. The late Archbishop Emeritus Desmond and Mrs

Leah Tutu were both gifted LN timepieces beaded with their names on their birthdays.

These watches have caught the eye of many visitors and are now being worn in the UK, Portugal, Italy and beyond. Corporate clients are also part of the growing LN success story, commissioning watches beaded in their company colours for a new take on traditional long-service timepiece awards. LN Watches combines Ntuli’s commitment to job creation in his community with his interest in “matters of the heart”.

The inspiration came originally from the “ucu” – a bracelet a Zulu woman traditionally gives to a man to symbolise her undying love for him. In return, he gives her an “umqhele”, a headband signifying his reciprocal love for and loyalty to her.

Ledjoy

Ledjoy is a proudly South African luxury watch brand that tell stories of resilience and strength by driving professional people to lead with purpose because “Ke nako” (“It is time” in Northern Sesotho). In this case, the phrase means that it is time Africa started producing quality watches designed to match its peoples’ resilient characters and personalities.

Ledjoy watches are made with a Miyota movement, a reliable mechanism imported from Japan. It has a power-saving function that detects motion and automatically saves up to 30% of energy. This increases the lifespan of the watches and makes them eco-friendly.

Ledjoy’s story started in a rural area called

Ga-Mashashane on the outskirts of Polokwane in Limpopo, where its co-founder, Lethabo “Lejoy” Motibane, used to walk 10 km to and from school during her high school days. In five years of walking to school and back, she learnt the importance of time management. Marketing facilitator Mokopane Ledwaba, who is now the MD of Ledjoy, turned Lethabo’s visions into a business. Ledwaba is not only the first employee of the brand, but is essentially its co-founder.

AmaBhengu

Pietermaritzburg-born Zamani Bhengum (28) is the founder and CEO of AmaBhengu Fashion Watches. After graduating from Umgungundlovu FET College with a financial management diploma, specialising in entrepreneurship and business management, he knew it was time to make something great out of his studies

They have caught the eyes of many visitors and are now being worn in the UK, Portugal, Italy and beyond. Corporate clients are also part of their growing success story, commissioning watches beaded in their company colours for a new take on traditional long-service timepiece awards.

He started his entrepreneurial journey on the streets of Pietermaritzburg, where he sold several imported brand watches. Once he had established connections and knew enough about timepieces, he partnered with international brands, designers and assemblers to establish his own brand, AmaBhengu Fashion Watches.

These watches are mechanical ones that function with gears and a main string which is wound periodically, as opposed to watches that run on a battery. The watches are made from crystal minerals and are water-resistant, with luminous hands.

Sources: - www.lnwatches.co.za es - www.facebook.com/Ledjoysa - www.facebook.com/amabhengufashion

The power of referrals

In a world where recommendations flow easily across social networks and digital platforms, the nature of consumer loyalty has changed, says Liezel Jonkheid, Director and founder of the Consumer Psychology Lab.

IT IS NO LONGER JUST ABOUT CUSTOMERS sticking to a brand out of habit or convenience, but rather about the power of advocacy and the influence of trust and emotional connections. Loyalty and advocacy are two pillars of enduring success in customer-brand relationships. However, their nuances reveal a complex tapestry of behaviours and sentiments that heavily influence consumer decisions and perceptions.

Peeling back layers of loyalty and advocacy in customer relationships In exploring the layers of loyalty and advocacy and their dynamics, it is helpful to explore examples from iconic brands like Apple and Canon vs Nikon, as well as the transformative impact seen with early adopters of disruptive services like Airbnb and Uber.

Loyalty signifies a commitment that goes beyond mere transactions. It is about the steadfast

By understanding the nuances of referral-based interactions, businesses can cultivate enduring relationships built on trust, authenticity and shared values.

support of a brand, the willingness to purchase repeatedly and expand one’s engagement within the brand’s ecosystem – think of Apple’s loyal customers who not only purchase iPhones, but also invest in iPads, MacBooks, Apple Watches and AirTags. This expansive loyalty fosters deep brand immersion and affinity.

Similarly, the rivalry between Canon and Nikon is legendary and has cultivated fiercely loyal communities. Canon loyalists swear by the brand’s intuitive interfaces and robust ecosystem, while Nikon enthusiasts laud its superior optics and rugged durability. This allegiance translates into repeat purchases and gear upgrades within the same brand family.

Moreover, true loyalty is evidenced by forgiveness in the face of shortcomings. Apple aficionados may overlook minor glitches in software updates, while Canon devotees remain steadfast despite occasional quality control issues. This resilience underscores the depth of emotional connection and trust that loyal customers forge with their chosen brands.

The loyalty journey begins long before a purchase, influenced by word-of-mouth, reviews and shared experiences. Brands like Tesla harness the power of advocacy by leveraging existing customers to onboard new ones, creating a community-driven approach that fosters trust and loyalty. However, loyalty is not solely about repeat purchases: it is about building strong affinity and preference for the brand, rooted in genuine experiences and emotional resonance.

Loyalty: The paradox of false allegiance

Amid the discourse on loyalty lies the paradox of false allegiance. Merely sticking with a service provider out of inertia does not equate to loyalty. True loyalty transcends convenience – it is a conscious choice driven by satisfaction, trust and shared values. Conversely, feeling trapped in a relationship due to complexities or barriers to exit (think banks and financial service providers) signifies a lack of genuine loyalty, highlighting the importance of customer-centric practices and seamless experiences.

The power of advocacy

Advocacy radiates outwards, igniting a ripple effect of persuasion and influence. Early adopters of disruptive innovations like Airbnb and Uber epitomise this phenomenon. Their enthusiastic embrace of these services morphs into evangelism, as they extol the virtues of sharing economies and ride-sharing platforms to friends, family and strangers alike. In South Africa, Checkers Sixty-60 is a good example of how the groundswell of raving supporters influences others to become part of the “tribe”.

In today’s digital age, platforms like WhatsApp community groups serve as hubs for soliciting and sharing recommendations, whether for a plumber, an electrician or a solar power provider. Advocacy is not confined to ground-breaking innovations – it permeates everyday interactions, from casual referrals for motor mechanics or IT technicians to strategic partnerships between businesses.

Advocacy is not without its risks, as these referrals embody a form of social currency, where individuals leverage and risk their personal reputations to vouch for a brand or service. What drives individuals to trust these referrals, especially when they come from virtual strangers? Worth considering, too, is the power of reviews from customers, guests, visitors and users in making everyday decisions, such as choosing the best place to stay – also against the backdrop of not knowing the reviewer at all. By endorsing a brand or provider, individuals stake their reputation on its reliability and quality. A misplaced recommendation can tarnish not only the recipient’s trust, but also the advocate’s credibility. Hence the message and reasoning behind a referral become paramount. Whether endorsing good service, exceptional quality or competitive pricing, these factors wield immense influence over the recipient’s willingness to explore the

recommended provider. What would brands not do to be endorsed at such a level!?

The role of NPS in predicting customer behaviour and growth

In the quest to measure customer loyalty, the Net Promoter Score (NPS) emerges as a pivotal tool. However, as highlighted in The Delighted Customers, a podcast hosted by Mark Slatin in which he talks to co-inventor Rob Markey, the application of NPS is often misinterpreted. Asking customers about their likelihood to refer based solely on interactions with call centre agents fails to capture the holistic customer experience. Instead, NPS should be viewed as part of a broader strategy, complemented by qualitative insights and contextual understanding. Markey stresses

the importance of building consistent loyalty through trust and emotional connection. He delves into the nuances of customer interactions, emphasising the role of empathy, authenticity and transparency in fostering enduring relationships and shared values. It is important to appreciate that NPS based only on a transactional level survey cannot accurately determine the actual loyalty, especially the strength of the emotional connection, and it certainly does not reflect or predict the propensity to advocacy.

Loyalty, advocacy and the complexity of human behaviour

The convergence of loyalty and advocacy underscores the multi-faceted nature of consumer behaviour. While loyalty fosters internal allegiance and repeat patronage, advocacy propels brands beyond their existing customer base, forging new connections and amplifying influence. By understanding the interplay of these dynamics and the nuances of referral-based interactions, businesses can cultivate enduring relationships built on trust, authenticity and shared values.

The power of referrals and the nuances of loyalty underscore the evolving dynamics of customer-brand relationships. As consumers navigate a sea of choices, brands must prioritise trust, authenticity and emotional connections to foster endorsement and loyalty. By understanding the symbiotic relationship between referrals, loyalty and advocacy, brands can unlock the true potential of customer engagement in an increasingly competitive landscape.

In conversation with Andile Makaula

NOMZAMO MBATHA’S MUCH-ANTICIPATED appearance on the red carpet during last year’s Shaka iLembe première in Montecasino, Johannesburg, was a sight to behold. She arrived in a gold rouched, form-fitting gown with intricate metal breastplates.

The actress took on the role of Queen Nandi, the mother of Shaka Zulu, in the film, while also wearing the hat of executive producer for the series.

The one-of-a-kind metallic gown that brought the Zulu queen to life was the reimagination and work of Cape Town-based House of Ayi founder Andile Makaula.

SAJN asked him about what inspires him, his successes, the lessons he has learnt and what the future holds for him.

What drew you to become a jewellery designer and inspired you to start your own brand?

When I first arrived in Cape Town in December 2017, fresh out of high school, my plan was to study fashion. However, the universe had a different plan for me. There was a hunger I felt for a space where I could be creative and if it wasn’t going to be fashion at that time, then I knew there’d be something else. I was fortunate that the jewellery industry opened its doors when it heard me knocking.

House of Ayi designer Andile Makaula reveals what drew him to become a jewellery and fashion designer and where his concepts come from.

Makaula

What are some of the materials you use in your jewellery and fashion collections?

When designing jewellery, I create most pieces using brass, but I’m hoping to start working with sterling silver soon. When designing fashion, I use satin, silks, velvets and all sorts of fabrics. I believe that the fabric will determine what the garment looks like, how it drapes and falls off the body. Fabric manipulation is king.

Your creations are amazingly unique. Where do your design concepts come from?

My work’s influenced by many designers, from Thierry Mugler’s 1990s era to John Galliano during his Dior era, Pierpaolo Piccioli currently at Valentino and Daniel Roseberry of Schiaparelli.

I think Roseberry’s début at Schiaparelli in 2019 came at the right time: it made the path even clearer. The first time I saw his work, I knew exactly what I was meant to do with my love for both jewellery and fashion. I take all these influences and infuse them with my belief that haute couture is everywhere, even in Africa.

What have your greatest successes been?

Everything that’s happening right now, right here, at this moment. I’m very grateful for all the opportunities

I’ve been given and for how far I’ve come. I certainly couldn’t have done it without the love and support I’ve received from people around me – particularly Nomzamo Mbatha, who believed in me and to whom I’m extremely grateful. I remember her completely trusting me and my abilities. All she said was: “Do your thing” – and my mind immediately started working. The possibilities of what I could create were endless – and a great budget certainly also helped!

What advice would you give others starting out on a similar creative entrepreneurial journey?

Don’t take things personally, know the difference between constructive criticism and naysayers and appreciate every challenge, because it prepares you for the next. Also, surround yourself with like-minded people and continue to challenge yourself. Never give up before you’ve exhausted all options. You’ll be amazed at what you can accomplish! Finally, and most importantly, just relax and have fun – something I’m still learning to do.

What can we expect from you in the future?

You can definitely expect more grandiose ideas and lots of fabulous work! I’ll also be exploring my other passions and interests.

Don’t take things personally, know the difference between constructive criticism and naysayers and appreciate every challenge, because it prepares you for the next.

DNA jewellery: Special keepsakes

A niche trend, DNA keepsake jewellery, has become very popular in the past few years. This treasured jewellery contains personal elements such as cremation ashes, locks of hair, breastmilk or umbilical cord.

TESSA HOFMAN, THE CREATIVE OWNER AND artisan behind Mama Milk Fairy, is one of many jewellers specialising in breastmilk and DNA jewellery.

“Even though breastmilk and DNA jewellery aren’t new, they’re known to many people,” she says. “Simply put, breastmilk jewellery is made of a woman’s breastmilk. She gives one or two teaspoons of it to an artist, who preserves it so that it doesn’t spoil and then turns it into a gorgeous gemstone. This gemstone can be set in a variety of jewellery settings, either gold, silver or stainless steel.

“The same goes for DNA jewellery,” she says, “except that here, the client gives a piece of the DNA item they want to have included in their jewellery piece. They could use encapsulated (thus already preserved) placenta, dried umbilical cord, a lock of hair or even cremation ashes.”

Hofman is obsessed with the goodness of breastmilk and breastfed both of her sons for 15 and 21 months. When her elder son was born, she simply assumed that breastfeeding would come naturally to mother and baby, and be easy. “Little did I know that it doesn’t always goes as smoothly as one planned

during pregnancy. It’s something both baby and mother have to learn.

“When my second breastfeeding journey was coming to an end, I felt the strong need to have something tangible to commemorate this special chapter in my life – something I’d be able to give my children when they were older and that I could also keep myself, to remind me of all that I’ve achieved. This was when I started my new journey of creating unique, precious and high-quality pieces of keepsake jewellery.

“Now, every time I look at my own breastmilk jewellery pieces, I feel proud, strong and heartwarmed. It’s a feeling I want

to share with other moms.”

Those to whom this trend is something completely new and have only recently heard or read about it may be wondering why anyone would want such an item.

“For some, it’s the perfect way to commemorate and preserve a special moment in their life,” explains Hofman. “Think of a wedding, becoming a parent or an anniversary – an occasion they want to preserve and wear with great joy. A piece that they can hold in their hand or wear close to their heart and that brings them back to that special moment each time they look at it or touch it.

“For others, it could be a reminder of something they’re very proud of, like a trophy.

Breastfeeding can be an extremely bumpy ride for both for mother and baby, but once they’ve made it through, there can be an intense feeling of pride.”

Source: mamamilkfairy.com

In DNA jewellery, the client gives a piece of the DNA item they want to have included in their jewellery piece. They could use encapsulated (thus already preserved) placenta, dried umbilical cord, a lock of hair or even cremation ashes.

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Monthly educational insert

Editor: Nathan Renfro

Contributing Editors: John I. Koivula and Tyler Smith

Breyite in Diamond

The author recently examined a 0.71 ct, D-color, type IaB diamond with an interesting inclusion reminiscent of a stone splashing in water (figure 1). Raman analysis identified the well-formed colorless transparent crystal as breyite (CaSiO3), a calcium-rich silicate mineral commonly found in sublithospheric or superdeep diamonds. It was hypothesized that this diamond formed in the lower part of the transition zone or the lower mantle beneath the earth’s crust.

Since the majority of diamonds in the jewelry industry come from the lithosphere, each one provides a window into Earth’s intricate geology. Inclusions such as this one serve as a reminder that beauty and flaws may coexist peacefully, whether they add to a diamond’s charm or provide scientific insight.

Aprisara Semapongpan GIA, Bangkok

Spray of Columbite Crystals in Topaz

A probable columbite inclusion in beryl was featured in a recent Quarterly Crystal, demonstrating the striking form these minerals can display (Spring 2023 G&G Micro-World , pp. 90–91). It was only fitting to follow up with a look at the same inclusion hosted by a different mineral.

The cluster of bladed columbite crystals in figure 2, identified via Raman spectroscopy, was found in an 8.91 ct colorless topaz. The thinner crystals allowed the brown bodycolor to show through, while the thicker, sword-like center crystal appeared black and opaque. Thin-film interference was observed between the host and inclusion when illuminated with oblique lighting, adding some welcome color to an otherwise featureless crystal face. While columbite has been previously described in topaz (F all 2009 G&G Lab Note s,

pp. 212–213; E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photo atlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Volume 2, Opinio Publishers, Basel, Switzerland, 2005, pp. 263, 738), this is the most dramatic example observed by the author.

Tyler Smith GIA, New York

Inclusion Resembling a Gada in Diamond

Recently, the authors observed an interesting etch channel (figure 3) in a 1.00 ct L-color type Ia round brilliant diamond with SI1 clarity. It resembled a gada, a mace-like weapon belonging to the Hindu god Hanuman. This etch channel was the only one observed in the diamond; these features are often created by dissolution processes (T. Lu et al., “Observation of etch channels in several natural diamonds,” Diamond and Related Materials, Vol. 10, No. 1, 2001, pp. 68–75).

This unusual clarity characteristic showcases the variety that is possible within the natural world.

Rujal Kapadia and Bhavya Maniar GIA, Surat Sally Eaton-Magaña GIA, Carlsbad

Figure 1. A well-formed colorless breyite crystal reminiscent of a stone making a splash in water. Photo-micrograph by Aprisara Semapongpan; field of view

1.07 mm.

Figure 2. Bladed crystals of columbite radiate from a central point in colorless topaz. The mirror-like surfaces allow for reflections of neighboring blades, as seen in the top left crystal. Photomicrograph by Tyler Smith; field of view 2.90 mm.

Figure 3. This etch channel seen in the crown facets of a 1.00 ct diamond with SI1 clarity (left) resembled a gada (right), a mace-like weapon wielded by the Hindu god Hanuman. Photomicrograph (left) by Deepak Raj; field of view

0.80 mm. Photo (right) courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Iridescent Inclusion in Brown Diamond

The iridescent crystal inclusion in the 1.07 ct light brown type IIa diamond in figure 4 was identified by Raman spectroscopy as ferropericlase. Ferropericlase, (Mg,Fe)O, can originate from either shallow (lithospheric) or deep (sublithospheric) depths within the earth. A stress halo was developed around the crystal by temperature and pressure changes during the ascent to the earth’s surface. The colorful iridescence may have been caused by light interference at a thin film trapped between the inclusion and the host diamond. It is rare to see ferropericlase as an inclusion in diamond, especially such a large crystal.

Kyaw Soe Moe GIA, New York

Natural Diamond with Twinning Wisps

Resembling a Whale

The authors recently examined a 0.46 ct type Ia round brilliant diamond with SI1 clarity that had surprisingly patterned twinning wisps. When viewed through the table, the twinning wisps resembled a whale (figure 5). Twin planes can form in diamond when the orientation of the crystal structure changes during growth in the earth’s mantle. Twinning wisps are atomic defects along this plane, found in ~10% of type Ia diamonds (S. Eaton-Magaña et al., “Natural-color D-to-Z diamonds: A crystal-clear perspective,” Fall 2020 G&G, pp. 318–335).

A termination of one of these features just below the pavilion was examined using photoluminescence (PL) mapping at various excitation wavelengths to examine the distribution of atomic-level defects in the crystal lattice. The PL mapping with 455 nm excitation revealed a relative increase in the defect

concentrations of the nitrogen-related centers of H3 (NVN0) with zero-phonon line (ZPL) at 503.2 nm and H4 (4N+2V) with ZPL at 495.9 nm; a weak radiation-related defect, the TR12 with ZPL at 469.9 nm was also detected (A.M. Zaitsev, Optical Properties of Diamond, Springer-Verlag, Berlin and Heidelberg, 2001, and references therein). PL mapping using 633 nm excitation revealed that the GR1 (V0; ZPL at 741.2 nm) had a higher Raman-normalized peak area corresponding to the termination of the twinning wisp compared to diamond adjacent to the wisp. The GR1 defect is typically formed by radiation damage of a diamond lattice. Although the GR1 was elevated, we did not observe radiation stains around the twinning wisps. Furthermore, there were no visible changes to the color of the diamond’s fluorescence when exposed to deep ultraviolet luminescence, which can occur with significant radiation exposure.

Figure 4. This iridescent ferropericlase crystal with a stress halo measuring approximately 0.7 mm was trapped inside a light brown diamond. Photo micrograph by Kyaw Soe Moe; field of view 1.58 mm.

Figure 5. This round brilliant diamond displays twinning wisps that resemble a whale. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 2.62 mm.

This stone offers an example of how natural growth processes in diamond can result in microscopic features that occasionally form delightful patterns.

Taryn Linzmeyer and Roy Bassoo GIA, Carlsbad Jaldeep Sojitra GIA, Surat

A Red Herring in a Red Garnet

At first glance, a 2.54 ct round mixed-cut stone examined by the author presented itself as a natural red garnet. Microscopic inspection revealed a host of transparent crystals and widespread epitaxial needles, both typical inclusions for garnet. Upon closer inspection, however, some of the apparent “crystals” were recognized as gas bubbles, betrayed by their smooth spherical forms (figure 6). This distinction can be easily missed without careful examination under high magnification. Additional observations and testing conclusively identified the material as pyrope-almandine garnet fused with manufactured glass. As with most garnet-topped doublets, the garnet portion was cut to occupy the crown while the glass made up most of the pavilion so that the natural inclusions of the garnet top masked the telltale signs of manufactured glass beneath.

Emily Jones GIA, New York

Heliodor with a Large Schorl Inclusion

An 8.33 ct long rectangular heliodor, the yellow variety of beryl (ideally Be3Al2Si6O18), was examined by the author. It was reportedly from the Zelatoya Vada mine in Murgab, Tajikistan; however, it was likely from Pakistan (J.S. White, “Let’s get it right: Tajikistan heliodor,” Rocks and Minerals, Vol. 80, No. 4, 2005, pp. 285–286). The heliodor had a large schorl tourmaline inclusion prominently under the table facet (figure 7) and a small schorl tourmaline near one corner. A thin band of fine fluid inclusions ran parallel to the length of the stone adjacent to the tourmaline. The stone was clearly cut to highlight the interesting inclusion rather than hide or remove it; aside from the two tourmaline inclusions and the thin band of fluids, the beryl had high clarity.

Both the heliodor and the tourmaline were analyzed by Raman spectroscopy and laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) to better understand the structure and chemistry of the minerals. Analyses were conducted on the girdle of the heliodor and on the back end of the tourmaline inclusion where it intersected a pavilion facet. The heliodor had low-moderate water bound in its structural channels, as determined qualitatively by Raman spectroscopy, which is expected for heliodor with low sodium content (R.E. Henry et al., “Crystal-chemical observations and the relation

of fluid inclusions

near

between sodium and H2O in different beryl varieties,” Canadian Mineralogist, Vol. 60, No. 4, 2022, pp. 625–675). The heliodor fit well within the expected chemistry; it had low overall cation substitutions, with minor or trace iron, magnesium, lithium, sodium, and cesium content. The tourmaline was confirmed to be schorl dominant due to its predominant sodium and iron content; however, due to high vacancy at the X structural site, the tourmaline had a high foitite component (D.J. Henry et al., “Nomenclature of the tourmaline-supergroup minerals,” American Mineralogist, Vol. 96, 2011, pp. 895–913). After data collection for research, this stone will be used in the GIA GemKids program as an educational piece for young students at the Carlsbad campus. It will represent the heliodor variety of beryl, showing fascinating inclusions as well as evidence of LA-ICP-MS laser pits on the girdle of the stone (not shown in the photomicrograph).

Rhiana Elizabeth Henry GIA, Carlsbad

Figure 6. Gas bubbles hide just beneath natural crystal inclusions in this garnet and glass doublet. Photomicrograph by Emily Jones; field of view 1.58 mm.

Figure 7. Morphological features of the tourmaline crystal included in the heliodor are visible; striations and triangular growth marks are present. A band

is visible

the tip of the schorl tourmaline. Photomicrograph by Rhiana Elizabeth Henry; field of view 2.90 mm. Gift of Mark Mauthner, GIA Museum no. 37772.

Rainy Lakeside City in Peridot

Inclusions in gemstones provide useful information regarding their geological origin. A 2.08 ct Burmese peridot containing unique black blade-like inclusions developed from healed fractures (fingerprints), as shown in figure 8. Raman spectroscopy identified these blade-like inclusions as magnetite. Tiny raindrop-like magnetite lamellae were also observed throughout the stone. Such inclusions in Burmese peridot sometimes create four-rayed asterism. According to previous studies, the presence of magnetite lamellae suggests the oxidation or dehydration of olivine by geological processes. This image resembles a rainy lakeside city landscape.

Makoto Miura, GIA, Tokyo

Zigzag Fingerprint in Sri Lankan Sapphire

The author recently examined a 3.21 ct oval mixed-cut blue sapphire. Chemical analysis and gemological observation of internal fissures suggested a Sri Lankan origin. Under fiber-

optic illumination, the fingerprints showed rectilinear zigzagpatterned films with vibrant colors that resulted from thinfilm interference (figure 9). The rectilinear structure of this fingerprint was caused by the natural healing process of a fracture oriented parallel to the c-axis.

These zigzag-patterned fingerprints often indicate a Sri Lankan origin, but they can also be found in sapphires from Myanmar and Madagascar. The undamaged rectilinear pattern could indicate that the stone is unheated.

Fissure with Moiré Pattern in Spinel

Surface-reaching fissures commonly host precipitates of epigenetic minerals, as was the case with a 4.22 ct purple spinel recently examined by the author. “Islands” of unidentified birefringent inclusions occupied a near-planar fissure. These inclusions were inert to Raman spectroscopy. Delicate

Figure 8. Blade-like magnetite inclusions developed from a healed fracture in a 2.08 ct Burmese peridot resemble a rainy lakeside city. Photomicrograph by Makoto Miura; field of view 1.06 mm.

Yuxiao Li, GIA, Tokyo

depositions radiating from these islands interacted to create a complex moiré pattern (figure 10).

Moiré patterns, named after their resemblance to a type of fabric, form when parallel or concentric lines overlap. It is unclear

whether the islands formed first and were partially dissolved in a secondary event, or if they formed simultaneously with the spinel. Although moiré patterns have been observed in partially healed fluid fingerprints and surface-reaching fissures, it is rare to see them expressed in such a spectacular form.

Tyler Smith

Large Stellate Dislocation in Spinel

The author recently examined a 4.49 ct greenish blue spinel exhibiting a prominent stellate inclusion characterized by a network of needle-like dislocations clustered in a six-rayed star pattern (figure 11). The inclusion was large enough to be readily observed without magnification. Star-like needles have been previously documented in spinel originating from Vietnam. These findings contribute to our understanding of spinel and its origins, providing valuable information for gemologists. This is one of the most remarkable stellate inclusions the author has observed in a spinel.

Ezgi Kiyak GIA, New York

Figure 9. The rectilinear zigzag-patterned fingerprint in this 3.21 ct blue sapphire shows beautiful vibrant colors, indicating a Sri Lankan origin. Photomicrograph by Yuxiao Li; field of view 4.45 mm.

Figure 10. A precipitation of an unidentified mineral in a fissure of a purple spinel creates this highly intricate moiré pattern. A combination of oblique fiber-optic and darkfield illumination was used. Photomicrograph by Tyler Smith; field of view 2.90 mm.

Tourmaline in Emerald

The author recently examined a 3.80 ct emerald with wellformed black, opaque prismatic crystals (figure 12). The surface-reaching crystals were identified as tourmaline through the use of Raman spectroscopy. While tourmaline crystals are relatively uncommon inclusions, they have been documented in emeralds from Zambia, Pakistan, Russia, and Ethiopia, all of which are schisthosted deposits. Laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry chemical analysis combined with inclusion observation revealed this emerald to be of Zambian origin.

Virginia Schneider GIA, New York

Turquoise Planet Earth

Armenia is not a widely known source of turquoise, but a recent donation to GIA’s colored stone reference collection proved that the country can produce high-quality, aesthetically pleasing stones. One of them, cleverly cut into an 84.90 ct sphere measuring 23.70 × 23.88 × 23.91 mm, bore an astonishing resemblance to planet Earth (figure 13). The natural brown matrix material mimicked the continents, while the greenish blue turquoise represented the oceans. Infrared spectroscopy showed that, like most gem turquoise, the specimen had been polymer impregnated, a treatment that makes the stone more durable. Additionally, no dye was detected. To accentuate its likeness to our planet, the sphere was photographed against

Figure 13. An 84.90 ct sphere of Armenian turquoise measuring 23.70 × 23.88 × 23.91 mm displays a striking resemblance to planet Earth. Left: Diffuse fiber-optic lighting allows the face of the stone to be seen in full. Right: Pinpoint fiber-optic lighting creates an appearance of day and night cast onto Earth. Gifted to GIA’s colored stone reference collection by Gemfab CJSC. Photos by Britni LeCroy.

Figure 11. Stellate dislocations decorate the interior of a greenish blue spinel believed to be from Vietnam. Photomicrograph by Ezgi Kiyak; field of view 4.79 mm.

Figure 12. Prismatic black tourmaline in a Zambian emerald. Photomicrograph by Virginia Schneider; field of view 1.76 mm.

“Musou Black,” marketed as the world’s blackest fabric and advertised to absorb 99.905% of all light. Precise placements of pinpoint lighting created various appearances of a sunlit Earth suspended in space.

Quarterly Crystal: Dravite in Fluorapatite

Growing from an angular matrix plate of brown siderite, a doubly terminated hexagonal crystal weighing 21.36 ct with a very light purplish blue color (figure 14) was identified as fluorapatite by Raman analysis. As the photo shows, the semitransparent crystal clearly hosts a number of randomly arranged, eye-visible, translucent acicular inclusions. The fluorapatite thumbnail specimen, from the Panasqueira mine in the Castelo Branco district of Covilhã, Portugal, was acquired by author JIK from the collection of Dr. Vasco Trancoso at auction in June 2023. When the specimen was examined microscopically, the acicular morphology and dark yellowish to brownish green bodycolor of the inclusions, as well as their behavior in polarized light, suggested they might be tourmaline. Laser Raman microspectrometry was able to pinpoint their identity as dravite (figure 15), a member of the tourmaline group.

14. Dark yellowish to brownish green needle-like inclusions dominate the interior of this 21.36 ct Portuguese fluorapatite on siderite matrix. Photo by

Robinson.

Figure 15. Raman analysis was used to identify the acicular inclusions in the fluora-patite host crystal as dravite tourmaline. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 7.37 mm.

Britni LeCroy GIA, Carlsbad

Figure

Adriana

John I. Koivula, Nathan Renfro, and Maxwell Hain GIA, Carlsbad

With more than one in five people (22%) in the UK saying they have owned or currently own a luxury watch, according to new research from global watch crime prevention database The Watch Register, the allure of owning a luxury watch remains high amongst consumers.

THE WATCH REGISTER, THE GLOBAL LEADER for due diligence and crime prevention in the luxury watch market, recently commissioned independent research agency Viewsbank to interview 1 121 UK consumers, 247 of whom currently own or have previously owned a luxury watch. According to the research, more than one in five people (22%) said they had owned or currently owned a luxury watch, while around three in 10 (28%) owners claimed to possess two or more luxury watches.

The survey from The Watch Register, which has more than 100 000 stolen or lost watches registered and traced 721 last year, also revealed that luxury watches continue to be an appealing target for thieves, with 15% of luxury watch-owners saying they had had a prized timepiece lost or stolen. The incidence of theft is highest among the younger generation, with 15% of UK owners aged under 35 stating they had been victims of such crime, compared with just 1% of owners aged 55 or older.

The attraction for second-hand luxury watches is strong, with prestigious timepieces retaining their desirability and value. Around one-quarter (24%) of respondents said they had purchased their last luxury watch from either a jeweller specialising in pre-owned items, an auction house or pawnbroker.

Fewer than two in five (38%) owners of luxury watches who had been victims of theft had purchased their watch themselves, with over half (54%) saying they had received it as a gift and 8% saying they had inherited their high-end timepiece. More than one in four (27%) people said their stolen luxury watch

Allure of owning a luxury watch remains high

had been pre-owned or second-hand.

“The luxury watch market continues to thrive and the desire for high-end timepieces doesn’t appear to be showing any signs of waning. However, this demand has increased the trade of stolen luxury watches that are being resold. Such transactions leave buyers and traders at risk of legal consequences, reputational damage and financial loss,” said Katya Hills, MD of The Watch Register.

“We advise buyers to check the unique serial number of a pre-owned watch they are thinking of purchasing against The Watch Register database on the day of their transaction to verify that it isn’t registered as lost or stolen.”

In the event of a loss or theft, owners need their unique serial number and proof of loss, such as a crime reference number, in order to register their watch on The Watch Register database. It charges a non-refundable fee per watch to review the registration and a 5% location fee if it is recovered.

It actively searches for lost and stolen watches on the global pre-owned market until they are recovered. The database is used by watch dealers, jewellers, pawnbrokers and auction houses to identify stolen watches prior to transactions. From the moment a stolen watch is located, the specialist recovery team steps in to secure it and remove it from circulation. It finds three to four lost and stolen watches per day for victims of theft. Fifty percent of the watches it finds are located within a year of the theft and 35% within six months. Watches are turning up quicker than ever before, so the company urges watchowners to report losses without delay to ensure the best chance of recovery.

The Watch Register database is

independent of any brands or retailers. Its sole purpose is to protect the pre-owned watch market, assist victims of theft and support the police. It holds the world’s largest, most established international database of lost, stolen and fake watches, containing data compiled over 30 years. The company provides expert-audited theft checks for watch traders and buyers, as well as specialist watch recovery services to victims and insurers.

The

attraction for second-hand luxury watches is strong, with prestigious timepieces retaining their desirability and value. Around one-quarter (24%) of respondents said they had purchased their last luxury watch from either a jeweller specialising in pre-owned items, an auction house or pawnbroker.

Rolex unveils its new watches

With its latest creations, Rolex brings a fresh, new look to some of its most iconic models.

OFFERING UNIQUE HARMONIES OF MATERIALS, colours and textures, Rolex’s 2024 watches illustrate a desire to constantly reawaken watchmaking emotions. The new timepieces play with contrasts to achieve a harmonious balance of functionality and aesthetics, performance and preciousness, tradition and innovation. They demonstrate an uncompromising commitment to quality that is expressed in the smallest details and through the mastery of rare skills, such as the art of dial-making.

• Oyster Perpetual, Cosmograph Daytona – An Icon Eternally Revisited

Two new reinterpretations of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona achieve the perfect balance of precision and preciousness. In a subtle interplay of hues, they write another chapter in the legendary story of a model known for a wealth of variations, summoning the potential in each of us for perpetual reinvention.

• Oyster Perpetual, GMT-Master II –Echoing Emotions

The 24-hour hand of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II displays much more than just an alternative time zone. It points to another location that resonates with the wearer – a reminder of the emotions that accompany each traveller.

• Oyster Perpetual, Day-Date –Harmonious Variations

An expression for every face. A personality for every dial. The new versions of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date express the brand’s enduring desire for rare and wideranging expertise to be found in even the smallest details. Colours, materials, motifs, hour-markers – each element contributes to the harmony of the new combinations.

• Perpetual, 1908 – Elegance in Movement

A watch of rare distinction, the new Perpetual 1908 is a visual masterpiece. On its dial, light bounces off the raised pattern, producing a variety of reflections with every movement of the wrist. A timepiece that affirms its unique identity with elegance and finesse in even the smallest details.

• Oyster Perpetual, Rolex Deepsea –Bringing Light to the Deep

Precious and technical. Majestic and innovative. A bright watch for the dark abyss. The new version of the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea is engineered to shine into the ocean depths.

• Oyster Perpetual, Sky-Dweller –A Symphony of Reflections

Sophisticated, technical and distinguished, the Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller is designed to enable tireless travellers to rapidly find their bearings. Reaffirming its elegance, it delights the senses with versions that spark the emotions through a symphony of reflections.

An unrivalled reputation for quality and expertise

Rolex is an integrated and independent Swiss watch manufacture. Headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland, it is recognised for its expertise and the quality of its products.

Hans Wilsdorf, founder of the company, instilled a notion of perpetual excellence, leading to major watchmaking innovations, such as the Oyster, the first waterproof wristwatch and the Perpetual rotor self-winding mechanism. The brand designs, develops and produces the majority of its watch components in-house.

Rolex also supports the arts and culture, sport, exploration and those devising solutions to preserve the planet.

The new timepieces play with contrasts to achieve a harmonious balance of functionality and aesthetics, performance and preciousness, tradition and innovation.

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KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO

Tel no: 033 386 7872

E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za

KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC

Tel: 082 451 9429

E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za

KAYRO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 585 4842

E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN

Tel: 083 350 2737

E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com

KHONJE DESIGNS

Tel: 012 460 1569

E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 021 531 9082

E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/

KINKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 786 1549

E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za

KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE

Tel: 011 825 5822

E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com

KRISTEN MALAN CC

Tel no: 011 880 1866

E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com

KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD

Tel: 010 001 6284

E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za

LADY PECULIAR

Tel no: 021 886 8868

E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za

Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za

L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 883 4021

E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za

Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za

LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS

Tel no: 076 586 3820

E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za

LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC

Tel no: 021 887 1655

E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za

LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR

Tel no: 015 293 0214

E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za

LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 967 1700

E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za

LOTTI JEWELLERY

Tel no: 079 386 1079

E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za

LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 011 882 3272

E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com

LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 651 8145

E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com

M2 JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 012 460 6793

E-mail: maryna@m2jewellery.com

Website: www.m2jewellery.com

MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 453 7018

E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com

MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS

Tel no: 083 305 2798

E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za

Website: www.madelinestemptations.co.za

MAGGIE AFRICA

Tel no: 072 882 2586

E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net

MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES

Tel no: 031 702 4422

E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za

MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 641 2724

E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com

Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com

MARINE GOLD CC

Tel no: 021 424 0077

E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za

MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 041 368 4582/3

E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 083 271 6065

E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za

Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/

MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS

Tel: 0727167632

E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com

MASELESELE JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 0630

E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za

Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD –

OR TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT SEZ

Tel no: 012 000 4440

E-mail: info@MetCon.co.za

Website: www.MetCon.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD –

CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 510 0770

E-mail: salesct@MetCon.co.za

Website: www.MetCon.co.za

METAL IMAGE

Tel no: 021 447 6600

E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com

Website: www.metalimage.co.za

MG IVORY

Tel no: 011 788 1018

E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS)

Tel no: 011 792 5292

E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 913 3944

E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com

Website: www.michljewellery.com

MINITZA

Tel: 082 77 29812

E-mail: info@minitza.co.za

MIRKO JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 886 8296

E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za

Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/

MOON INVESTMENTS

Tel: 021 551 2066

E-mail: invest@mooninvest.co.za

MUGA MUGA HANDMADES

Tel no: 072 299 7148

E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za

Website: www.mugamuga.co.za

MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 041 379 1162

E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

N.N JEWELLERS

Tel: 082 081 8179

E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com

NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 012 329 9600

E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za

NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 384 7792

E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za

Website: www.nilu.co.za/

NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN

Tel: 079 891 7240

E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za

NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 012 332 5850

E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za

Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/

NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES

Tel no: 073 700 6225

E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com

Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za

NV DESIGN COMPANY

T/A BY NANETTE

Tel no: 021 883 3856

E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com

Website: www.bynanette.com

ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 480 9860

E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com

Website: www.oroafrica.com

OSMOND’S

Tel no: 021 559 8277

E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net

PAUL GALLIAS

Tel no: 073 194 2415

E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com

PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO

Tel no: 011 678 0595/6

E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za

Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/

PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel: 021 789 0312

E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za

PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 072 739 6800

E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com

Website: www.phatsimajd.com

PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 423 2771

E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za

Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za

PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 549 4966

E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za

Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 396 6178

E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za

Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/

PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 031 301 3963

E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za

Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za

PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 011 702 1462

E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com

Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za

POPULAR DIAMOND

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC

Tel no: 011 484 7044

E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za

PRECIOUS ONE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 056 212 1229

E-mail: antonjewels@yahoo.com

PRECISION SETTERS

Tel no: 011 484 7803/4

E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za

PRETTY FOUND THINGS

Tel no: 083 651 9042

E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com

Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za

PREVIDA & CO

Tel no: 011 701 5074

E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com

PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS

Tel no: 021 422 1090

E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com

Website: www.prinsandprins.com

QUICKSET JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 468 9236

E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net

Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za

RAMSDEN DIAMONDS

T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel: 011 404 5010

E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za

RAND REFINERY LIMITED

Tel no: 011 418 9000

E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za Website: www.randrefinery.com

RARE EARTH CREATIONS

Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/

REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 326 1727

E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 418 1600

E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za

RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 374 2101

E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za Website: www.ritco.co.za

RODNEY CHANDLER JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 606 0493

E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za

ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS

Tel no: 082 974 4566

E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za Website: www.rcdesign.co.za

ROK ORIGINALS

Tel no: 072 203 3288

E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/

ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 794 1666

E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/

RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART

Tel no: 021 447 2492

E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za

Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za

SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C

Tel no: 031 306 4921

E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com

SANDHAVON DIAMOND CUTTING WORKS

Tel no: 083 233 0910

E-mail: kevin@lutrin.co.za

SAVAGE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 902 2302

E-mail: nicola@savagejewellery.com

SCANT DESIGN

Tel: 072 339 1885

E-mail: as@scant.co.za

SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC

Tel no: 021 683 4646

E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za

Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za

SEA & SHORE

Tel: 082 742 5343

E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com

SERAGLIO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 783 8301

E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com

Website: www.seragliojewellers.com

SHADOW JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 8297

E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com

SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 308 2111

E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com

Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/

SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 049 3933

E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za

Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za

SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 450 3192

E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com

Website: www.silkroutegold.com

SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 334 4529

E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za

SIRKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 726 2365

E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com

Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za

SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 460 6771

E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net

Website: www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za

SMITH JEWELLERY

Tel no: 071 313 8649

E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com

Website: www.smith-jewellery.com

STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 775 9995

E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com

Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/

STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 379 0171

E-mail: info@studio1980za.com

Website: https://studio1980za.com/

STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 031 764 3000

E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net

Website: www.studio39.co.za

STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 642 7826

E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za

Website: www.studioc.co.za

STUDIO LOUBSER

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com

Website: www.studioloubser.com

SUGARBUSH CREATIONS

Tel no: 015 293 2358

E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com

SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel: 082 779 7084

E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com

TASHA SWART CREATIONS

Tel: 082 523 9982

E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com

THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY

E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za

Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/

THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY

Tel no: 011 854 4556

E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za

Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/

THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST

Tel: 031 303 2396

E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za

THE JEWELLERY HUB

Tel no: 083 326 5746

E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za

Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za

THE MAKERY

Tel no: 082 600 7142

E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com

Website: www.themakerycollection.com

THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR

Tel no: 014 597 0736

E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za

Website: www.tpi.org.za

TINSEL GALLERY

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za

Website: https://tinselgallery.com/

TIP TOP JEWELLERS

Tel no: 044 873 3048

E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net

TRIMALCHIO

Tel no: 012 346 6874

E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za

TRISLO (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 259 0100

E-mail: info@trislo.co.za

Website: www.trislo.co.za

TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 012 382 6007

E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za

Website: www.tut.ac.za

UNCUT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 083 225 8221

E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za

Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za

UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG

Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125

E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za

Website: www.uj.ac.za

UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH

Tel no: 021 808 3047

E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za

Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/

VAN DEIJL MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 914 2192

E-mail: info@vdmj.co.za

VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 208 9142/3

E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za

Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za

VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 615 4758

E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com

VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS

Tel no: 031 564 2948

E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com

Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za

VK JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 789 4498

E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za

Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za

WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 554 1169

E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za

Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za

WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 011 318 1340

E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za

Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za

YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY

Tel no: 074 136 3633

E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr

ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 010 109 2057

E-mail: compliance@zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com

ZULU MIEN

Tel: 0823344426

E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com

ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 015 293 2306/58

E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com

Website: www.zurel.co.za

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ANNA-B JEWELLERY 071 843 2452 orders@annab.co.za www.annab.co.za

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BYL DIAMONDS www.byldiamonds.com orders@byldiamonds.com (021) 419-2000

DIA GRADING LAB www.diagrading.co.za dialab@telkomsa.net (011) 334-5911 GEMFIELDS www.gemfields.com +44 (0) 20 7518 3400

GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (GIA) www.gia.edu gia ed/contact us +1-760-603-4000 – global hq

ISIKHOVA MARKETING www.isikhova.co.za thuli@isikhova.co.za (011) 883-4627

JAMES RALPH PTY LTD www.jamesralph.com info@jamesralph.com (011) 314-8888

JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF SOUTH AFRICA (JCSA) Jewellex365 www.jewellery.org.za lornal@jewelleyr.org.za (011) 484-5528

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3/3/17 11:39 AM

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