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SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journal

CIBJO concludes 2012 congress The complex world of watch batteries

VicenzaOro Spring â€“ as booming as always

EGL SOUTH AFRICA

PROVIDING OUR SERVICES FOR OVER 30 YEARS EGL South Africa, one of the continent’s leading gem grading laboratories, is proud to announce the launch of its new, updated, content-speciﬁc and user-friendly website. Available at: www.egl.co.za, it supplies the user with all relevant information on its veriﬁcation services, as well as its College of Gemology and additional services offered to the trade.

CAPE TOWN

Apart from its certiﬁcation and grading of diamonds, tanzanites and coloured stones, EGL South Africa has been offering diamondgrading courses since 1983. Due to the high demand for training in the diamond sector, EGL made the decision to formally establish the EGL College of Gemology to provide training for the public, jewellers and their sales staff. Courses currently offered are: • Diamonds and diamond grading. • Polished diamonds for the retail jewellers. • Introduction to tanzanite. • Essentials of coloured stones.

JOHANNESBURG

In 2011, EGL South Africa launched its 12-language buyer’s guide booklet, which followed up on the success of the individual language Diamond and Tanzanite buyer’s guide. This booklet has been designed to aid in-store personnel who are called upon to assist potential buyers from all over the world. It is also a very useful tool for tour guides, who are an integral link in the jewellery sales process.

DIAMOND AND TANZANITE INFORMATION GUIDE

It is compact in size and therefore easy to store or carry, but comprehensively presents the essential information relating to diamonds and tanzanite that is required by the consumer. These booklets can be branded and more information can be obtained from the EGL ofﬁce in Johannesburg or Cape Town.

Johannesburg, Suite 410, 4th Floor, SA Diamond Centre • Cnr. Main and Philip Street • Tel: +27 11 334 4527 • infoJHB@egl.co.za Cape Town, Suite 704, 7th Floor, 80 Strand • Strand Street • Tel: +27 21 419 8828 • infoCT@egl.co.za

www.egl.co.za

Official New Balance watch distributor. For more information please e-mail: wkc@wbs.co.za www.facebook.com/NewBalanceWatchesSA

a f r ica 2 012

Africaâ€™s premier jewellery & watch exhibition

1-3 SEPTEMBER 2012 Sandton Convention Centre, Johannesburg, South Africa

Exhibition exclusively for members of the Jewellery Trade Please bring a business card and ID / Drivers Licence to avoid disappointment. Tel: 011 484 5528 | Fax: 086 504 9512 | Email: jewellex@jewellery.org.za | Website: www.jewellex.co.za

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za

c ntents 19. MARKET WATCHING

Advertising Sales: Tanja Jordaan Cell: 083-268-6153 E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za

SAJN speaks to Adam Fulat of AA Watch Wholesalers about the complex world of watch batteries

Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-98211 51035 E-mail: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Prestige Bulk Mailers

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa. 27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa. Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Printing: Colors

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

7. NEWS • Graduation at Harry Oppenheimer Diamond Training School • CIBJO concludes 2012 congress with decision to establish valueadding services for members

22. BRAND MANAGEMENT

• Official Chinese delegation visits Antwerp’s Diamond District

• Girard-Perregaux honours Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu

• Exciting happenings planned for Jewellex Africa 2012

• Go-Girl Only watches for young, fashion-conscious women

• Avidar to step down as managing director of IDI

• A site brimming with history

• Jovella, Tel Aviv’s international jewellery exhibition, opens 3 July

• Pistorius appointed U-Boat ambassador

• Fiera Di Vicenza signs international collaboration agreement with Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council

• Real watches for real people • Police now an aspirational brand • Deep black and pink gold combined • Latest innovation from Ronda • Seiko craftsman honoured

16. INTERNATIONAL FAIR VicenzaOro Spring – as booming as always

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za

28. LITTLE GEMS Of cameos and carving

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2012. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2012

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journal

CIBJO concludes 2012 congress

On the cover AA Watch Wholesalers CC is the proud distributor of watch products of quality and

The complex world of watch batteries

distinction. The company’s stable of products include established watch brand Orient, Rhythm clocks, Energizer batteries as well as Alfa leather straps. For more information, Vicenzaoro Spring – as booming as always

tel: (012) 342-8978, e-mail: aaww@lantic.net or visit: www.aawatch.co.za.

OFFICIAL CHINESE DELEGATION VISITS ANTWERP’S DIAMOND DISTRICT AWDC’s chief executive officer Ari Epstein welcomed an official delegation led by the Chinese Minister of Commerce of the People’s Republic of China on 1 June. Over the past decade, the Belgian-Chinese trade relationships have been thriving, with a prominent role for the Antwerp diamond industry. The partnership is illustrated by regular, official delegations being welcomed both in China and Belgium. More recently, in November 2011, the Antwerp diamond industry established an even more profound and tangible collaboration during the Belgian Princley Mission, with an unprecedented networking event between Chinese entrepreneurs and their Belgian counterparts in the fabulous Great Hall of the People at Tiananmen Square in Beijing. The visit of the high-level Chinese delegation led by HE Minister Chen Deming, Chinese Minister of Commerce, once again confirms the

mutual beneficial commercial alliances between China and Belgium. The diamond trade in Belgium has grown dramatically recently and is currently 60% above pre-crisis levels. The bilateral trade between China and Belgium clearly follows that trend and is forecast to rise to US$5 billion over the next year. “We are honoured to have the minister as our guest and it underscores the strong ties between China and Antwerp,” said AWDC’s CEO Ari Epstein. “Today already a stunning 25% of Antwerp’s polished diamond export is heading to Hong Kong and mainland China. With rising prosperity and consumer spending, that number can only grow. Every day more and more Chinese customers discover nature’s most beautiful treasure, in all its facets, from the rough stones that are unearthed and the exclusive jewellery piece that celebrates a joyous occasion to the exquisitely polished stone that equals a stable and secure investment.”

CIBJO CONCLUDES 2012 CONGRESS WITH DECISION TO ESTABLISH VALUE-ADDING SERVICES FOR MEMBERS CIBJO concluded its annual conference in the Italian city of Vicenza with a decision to establish a number of bodies that will provide added-value services to members of national associations that are affiliated with the organisation, as well as to its commercial members. Meeting just prior to the conclusion of the four-day congress, the CIBJO board of directors approved the creation of a Trade Show Commission and a Security, Insurance and Logistics Working Group, which will work under the umbrella of its Association Executive Networking Commission, both of which will provide improved services and support for members of bodies associated with CIBJO. The board of directors also agreed to reactivate the CIBJO Ethics Commission, chaired by Cecilia Gardner, CIBJO’s legal counsel and president and CEO of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee in the United States; to create a Coral Working Group within CIBJO’s Sector A to consider issues specific to coral jewellery manufacturers; and to establish a strategic taskforce, headed by Israel Diamond Institute chairman Eli Avidar and a member of CIBJO’s President’s Council, which will be charged with growing CIBJO’s industry membership and strengthening its financial base, among other duties. “The addition of these various bodies within

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2012

CIBJO is of critical importance,” explained CIBJO president Gaetano Cavalieri. “Not only do they expand the tangible benefits that our members are able to offer their members through their association with CIBJO, but they strengthen our ability to tackle both new and developing challenges facing our industry.” The CIBJO board of directors also approved a series of amendments to the organisation’s closely followed Blue Books of industry standards and nomenclature, which had been introduced, debated and fine-tuned in the professional commissions during the course of the congress. During the general assembly meeting that preceded the board meeting, it was announced that CIBJO has undertaken a project to adapt for easy access and availability via smartphones and tablet computers, its Blue Books and other material produced by the organisation on behalf of the international jewellery industry, such as the Retailers' Reference Guide. The general assembly also approved a resolution supporting the call by the World Diamond Council to begin discussions about widening the definition of conflict diamonds in the statutes of the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme. The CIBJO president reported that an announcement regarding the exact time and venue of the congress will be made in the near future.

NEWS

STEPHANE FISCHLER ELECTED AS NEW AWDC PRESIDENT On 15 June, during the first meeting of the newly elected board of directors of the AWDC, the board members elected Stephane Fischler as the new president of the AWDC. The board of directors also appointed Kaushik Mehta as vice-president, representing the trade, and Philippe Barsamian as vicepresident representing the Bourses. After paying homage to his predecessor, Nishit Parikh, Fischler said: “Antwerp has a unique people infrastructure and a unique pool of talents, in and outside our industry. Together, we must strengthen and promote our common and rich history for the benefit of all. I firmly believe we need to focus on further anchoring our industry in our local society, as well as share the value of our entrepreneur-ship and global networks with

Antwerp, Flanders and our country.” “Firstly, I sincerely congratulate Fischler on his election as AWDC president,” said AWDC’s CEO Ari Epstein. “He can draw on many years of in-depth experience in the diamond industry and a long record of public service. He is highly respected in and well known for his dedication towards the Antwerp diamond community and beyond. With Fischler leading the board, I’m confident we will successfully continue ourambitious masterplan projects in the future.” Fischler was born in Antwerp in 1958. He is a third-generation diamantaire who started working at Fischler Diamonds in 1979. The company was founded in 1953 by Aby and Cappi Fischler and by the late Bram Fischler, who served as president of the World

Federation of Diamond Bourses, the Antwerp Diamond Bourse and the HRD. Over the years Fischler has held many executive positions in various industry bodies. He has served as vice-president of SBD (the Belgian Diamond Manufacturers Association) since 1994. He also served as vice-president of IDMA from 1996-1997 and secretarygeneral/treasurer of IDMA from 1998-2008. In addition, he served as president of WTOCD (the HRD research centre) from 1998-1999, and has been a member of its board for several years. Fischler is a founding member of the World Diamond Council (WDC). He was also HRD’s treasurer from 2005-2008 and served as vice-president of the AWDC over the past two years. He is the current chairman of the International Diamond Council.

TIANCHENG INTERNATIONAL’S JEWELLERY AND JADEITE SPRING AUCTION 2012 ACHIEVED HK$458 MILLION Tiancheng International concluded its Jewellery and Jadeite Spring Auction with HK$458 million, with 86% sold by value on 27 May. The top lot of the sale was a piece of jadeite bead necklace which realised HK$69 384 000. This necklace incorporates

23 bright green beads with exceptional translucency and size measuring approximately 21,54-16,61 mm. “With 86% sold by value, we are thrilled with the result of our Jewellery and Jadeite Spring sale,” says Yan Zheng, chairman of

Tiancheng International. “Following the success of this sale and the exhibition of Chinese contemporary art, Beyond Representation, this spring, we are looking forward to the sales of modern and contemporary art, as well as jewellery in autumn.”

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5/8/12 8:32 AM

EPHRAIM ZION of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime. Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.

What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.

A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.

What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.

All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it.

Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond without a GIA report?

Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.

Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU

NEWS

EXCITING HAPPENINGS PLANNED FOR JEWELLEX AFRICA 2012 Jewellex Africa organisers have informed industry members that this year’s exhibition is in a strong position, with over 85% of the exhibition already booked, compared with last year. Many of the key watch brands have confirmed their participation, including those from companies such as CJR Gift Sales, Luxco, S Bacher, JP Time and Maehler Trading. Organisers have also announced that AngloGold Ashanti will launch its newest gold

couture jewellery collection, AuDITIONS Urban Tribes 2.0, at this year’s show. The bespoke 18ct collection consists of 18 jewellery and accessory pieces. The Jewellery Council will be celebrating 40 years in existence this year and is planning a special celebration function for the industry on the first evening of Jewellex Africa. Debora Patta, one of the most prominent and respected journalists in South Africa, will address the annual Jewellex Business Breakfast.

She is the executive producer and anchor of e.tv's 3rd Degree. The breakfast will take place on Sunday, 2 September. Jewellex Africa 2012 is scheduled to take place from 1-3 September at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg. An Exhibitor Website Directory with access to the list of exhibitors has been launched and can be viewed at: www.jewellex.co.za. For stand bookings or further information, e-mail Lorna Lloyd at: lornal@jewellery.org.za.

JOVELLA, TEL AVIV’S INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY EXHIBITION, OPENS 3 JULY Israel’s ninth international jewellery and diamond exhibition will be held on 3-4 July 2012 in Tel Aviv. The leading event of the jewellery industry in Israel, it offers domestic and foreign buyers an opportunity to explore Israel’s diamond and jewellery industries. This year the show will feature an Avenue of Young Designers – a section devoted to young Israeli jewellery designers showing original gold, silver and diamond pieces. These designers have been trained in the country’s leading design schools and their designs offer

a fresh approach to jewellery as “wearable art”. For the first time, Jovella will also feature an exhibition of jewellery designed and manufactured by Ethiopian immigrant students of the ABSchool within the Yvel Design Centre in Jerusalem. The Genesis (Majmaria in Amharic) collection encompasses pendants, earrings, bracelets and rings made of brass and plated with 24ct gold. Each of the designs incorporates a special message in Amharic, sometimes hidden on the inside or the back of the piece. The ABSchool,

sponsored by Yvel and non-profit organisation Yedid, helps Ethiopian immigrants learn a profession and find jobs in the jewellery manufacturing industry. Jovella 2012 will include 200 exhibitors, showing loose diamonds, gold jewellery, jewellery set with diamonds or precious stones, silver jewellery and fashion jewellery. About 12 000 jewellery professionals and buyers visited the fair in 2011. Over 150 companies exhibited and over 190 buyers and visitors from abroad visited the show.

CAPE TOWN: TEL 021 510 0770, FAX 021 510 0778 GAUTENG: 0861 METALS (0861 638 257) DURBAN: CELL 082 789 3882

GRADUATION AT HARRY OPPENHEIMER DIAMOND TRAINING SCHOOL The Harry Oppenheimer Diamond Training School recently had 39 learners who graduated successfully and earned a national certificate in diamond processing, as well as receiving over R37 000 in accumulated stipends. Nineteen of the graduates did top polishing, while 20 did bottom polishing. “We are also very proud to report that some of them have already started working in the industry,” the training school says.

In March 2012, the Harry Oppenheimer Diamond Training School had 12 bursary students who successfully completed the GIA Diamond Polishing Lab class. This is a course that gives students insight into the Four-Cs grading system with handson experience in grading polished diamonds. “This course is also a required subject to become a GIA Graduate Gemmologist, which means our learners now have a stepping stone to further their careers as gemmologists,” says the school. Learners who attended the course are mostly employed in the industry either as quality controllers, diamond dealers or diamond manufacturers. The school also had 20 bursary students who completed the Rough Diamond evaluation course in March this year. This is a compulsory course for all newcomers to the world of rough diamonds. “Once it is completed, the students have the opportunity to become entrepreneurs,” explains the school. A limited number of learnerships have already been allocated for the new financial year.

FIERA DI VICENZA SIGNS INTERNATIONAL COLLABORATION AGREEMENT WITH GEM AND JEWELLERY EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL Trade relations between India and Italy will be getting off to an advantageous start with the two main global jewellery business “mediators”, Fiera di Vicenza’s VicenzaOro and the India International Jewellery Show in Mumbai, having already laid solid foundations. India is a leading world market for gold and jewellery demand and, despite the rather unfavourable customs system, represents an enormous opportunity for Italian products. Trade relations between the two countries have grown considerably in recent years, especially in the high-range sector. Encouraged by this trend, Fiera di Vicenza has been making significant efforts to develop business relations in the area by identifying ad hoc projects for the Italian gold and jewellery industry and the New Delhi government’s recent official declarations about being willing to radically lower the current customs duties, have speeded up the entire process. The collaboration agreement was signed on 2 June during the JCK Show in Las Vegas, the American jewellery exhibition that saw Fiera di Vicenza playing a leading role with its VicenzaOro Italian Club comprising 132 of the top names in Italian gold and jewellery production. Fiera di Vicenza has thus become an official partner of the Gem and Jewellery

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2012

Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), which is responsible for organising the most important jewellery and related technology shows in Mumbai, India’s financial capital and home to leading gold institutions and exhibitions. The GJEPC is also the foremost organisation linked to the Indian government which not only represents and promotes the entire Indian gem and jewellery industry, but also certifies exportation and develops co-operation and exchange between the Indian gold and jewellery companies themselves. The agreement gives Italian gold, jewellery and jewellery processing machinery companies privileged access to the Indian market within the context of the India International Jewellery Show to be held at the Bombay Convention and Exhibition Centre in Mumbai, where the VicenzaOro Italian Club and T-Gold formats will be given special exhibition space. Fiera di Vicenza will act as the exclusive representative for all the gold and precious stone Italian districts and companies taking part in the international exhibition. The agreement also foresees the setting up of an Indian pavilion at the fair events in Vicenza to house leading Indian high-range jewellery companies sponsored and coordinated by the GJEPC.

NEWS

GIA’S BOARD OF GOVERNORS WELCOMES TWO NEW MEMBERS The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has announced the appointments of Amit Dhamani, CEO and managing director of Dhamani Jewels Group and Thomas Insley, CFO of Intrepid Therapeutics, Inc to its board of governors. Both were inducted at GIA’s May 2012 biannual board meeting in Hong Kong. “A warm welcome to Amit and Thomas as they join an extraordinary group of global leaders in furthering GIA’s mission to ensure the public trust in gems and jewellery,” said Donna Baker, president and CEO of GIA. “Their combined expertise will help us continue to grow, to deliver unbiased, third-party evaluation of gemstones and to

provide world-class gemmological education and instruments.” Dhamani is a second-generation jeweller with extensive experience in Europe, the Middle East and India. Coupled with his background in the coloured stone and diamond wholesale business, his vision for the development of the retail gem and jewellery industry has made him an authoritative figure in the international arena. He holds an executive diploma in business administration from Harvard Business School and is the president of the GIA alumni chapter in the Gulf. Insley has spent the past 10 years as CFO of three different companies, both public and

private, and has 29 years of prior experience at accounting firm PricewaterhouseCoopers LLP, five of them as a managing partner. He is a member of the board of trustees of the Scripps Research Institute and of the Corporate Directors' Forum. “Our governors bring expertise from their diverse backgrounds. Amit is a visionary jewellery retailer with a firm grounding in best business practices and Thomas has an exemplary record of leadership as an executive and board member of public companies and non-profit institutions,” said Susan Jacques, GIA board chair and president and CEO of Borsheims Fine Jewelry and Gifts.

AVIDAR TO STEP DOWN AS MANAGING DIRECTOR OF IDI Eli Avidar will step down from his position as managing director of the Israel Diamond Institute Group of Companies (IDI) following his appointment as chief executive of Azura Consulting. Azura Consulting is owned by Dan Gertler and provides consulting services for

the management of mining assets in Africa, particularly in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Avidar will also serve as the deputy chairman of the Gertler Foundation, a charity engaged in education and social welfare projects throughout the world. “I am happy to join Azura Consulting,

especially because it has a key role to play in the field of natural resources in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, the continent of Africa as well as internationally,” Avidar said. IDI has yet to name a successor to Avidar, who served as its managing director since October 2006. – Rapaport

(Above): The Rough Diamond Dealers Association of South Africa held its 22nd Annual General Meeting on 13 June at the SA Diamond Centre, Johannesburg, where Jan Nortje was elected the new chairman of the association after Sarel Snyman did not make himself available for re-election. From left: Jan Nortje, Jennifer Gentle, Trevor Temkin, Jakes Cloete, Selwyn Ziskind, Mehul Choksi and Nash Parag. Absent: Crucious Ramapuputla

SIMON BAKER APPOINTED AS LONGINES AMBASSADOR OF ELEGANCE Swiss watchmaker Longines has announced the appointment of Simon Baker as its new Ambassador of Elegance. The Australian actor is wellknown for the lead role in the television series The Mentalist, as well as his roles in movies such as Margin Call. “Baker personifies the core values of Longines and perfectly underlines the slogan ‘Elegance is an attitude’,” the company said. He will be officially introduced as worldwide Longines Ambassador of Elegance at the Prix de Diane Longines in Chantilly, France, where Longines is the title partner and official timekeeper.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2012

INTERNATIONAL FAIR

global” – everything that is made locally (in Italy) must have global reach and appeal and everything that happens globally must have an impact on a local level. During this year’s event, Vicenza acquired another prestigious achievement under its belt – Comune di Vicenza – and also signed an agreement to set up the Museum of Jewellery in the magnificent Basilica Palladiana. The exhibition, managed by the fair, will accommodate over 400 m² inside Lamec’s former premises and on the mezzanine designed by Andrea Palladio. VicenzaOro also signed a deal with Dubai International Jewellery Week whereby the two fairs become partners. This will allow Italian manufacturers access to the Saudi Arabian, North African, Gulf and Asian Minor jewellery buyers during the fair in Dubai. This year, the newly launched Andrea Palladio International Jewellery Award winners were announced during the official opening ceremony. A prestigious jury selected the six category winners. Giancarlo Babetto was awarded the Best Italian Jewellery Designer and Gijs Bakker the best International Jewellery Designer. The Best Italian Jewellery Brand Collection went to Crivelli, while the Best International Jewellery Brand Collection was awarded to Van Cleef & Arpels. Dodo of London received the award for the Best Jewellery Flagship Store, while the Best Jewellery Communication Campaign went to Cartier. South Africa featured prominently, with a number of local players exhibiting their latest creations, De Beers chairman Nicky Oppenheimer receiving an award in recognition of his contribution to the diamond industry and South African Minister for Mineral Resources, Susan Shabangu, delivering an address to key players. During her presentation, Shabangu stressed that more women are needed in the industry, as they are the ones who wear jewellery in the main. “Contributions made by women are making a difference to

VicenzaOro Spring – as booming as always VicenzaOro Spring, which took place from 19-23 May 2012, once again achieved great success with 916 Italian and 380 foreign exhibitors.

THE FAIR IS SUCCESSFULLY PROVING THE efficiency of guidelines designed to create space for relations, the implementation of networking and inside communication sectors, as well as reinforcing events on an international level and promoting itself as a hub for the entire luxury goods sector. According to Roberto Ditri, president of Fiera di Vicenza, a change in direction is made necessary by an industry sector which is undergoing radical change with the key words being “consistency” and “concrete action“. Corrado Facco, general manager of Fiera di Vicenza, explains this vision set for VicenzaOro as “local is (Left): Nicky Oppenheimer, chairman of De Beers and Roberto Ditri, president of Fiera di Vicenza

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2012

INTERNATIONAL FAIR

small-scale businesses. One of our key people is Cynthia Carrol, Anglo American CEO. A woman in her position proves that women can do anything as well as, and possibly even better than, men.” She added that Africa is becoming increasingly important in the world economy and cannot be ignored by the rest of the world. The issue of social responsibility was a hot topic of discussion at this year’s event. Jocelyn Fenard from UNITAR had the following to say when asked why corporate social responsibility has become a necessity: “Consumers are entitled to know what they’re buying. When a customer walks into a jewellery store to make a purchase, he/she wants to be sure that what they're buying actually comes with a detailed description. We are duty-bound to inform and educate our customers. As for manufacturing, we must look into how the materials are extracted and into what the work conditions are like in gemstones and gold-producing countries. In this case, our duty is to make sure that human rights are abided by and that sustainability is enforced at all times worldwide.” The latest in trends are always a strong debate at VicenzaOro. This year’s message was clearly one of rethinking and representation due to the economic downturn. Grand seductive images and the odd seasonal colour are no longer enough to guide consumers in the right direction. Costly celebrity endorsements and advertising campaigns no longer cut it. Nowadays, trends are a fragile combination of innovative materials, craftsmanship, techniques, technology and contemporary ideas. VicenzaOro has created a style lab to stimulate creativity. The Trend Vision Jewellery

+ Forecasting project is available at: www.trendsvisionforecasting.com. Asked about the latest trends, Roberto Coin, one of Italy’s leading jewellery designers, said he does not follow any trend. “At Roberto Coin, we create the colours for the season in our designs and the rest of the market follows. “The kind of creative jewellery design and manufacturing expected from Roberto Coin means that clients are prepared to pay for what they get. The top-end market is doing well; it is the middle market that is suffering. We have seen double-digit growth year on year for the past few years. Design is always changing, directed by women’s fashion and colours changing every season. We create the designs and many other designers follow what we did before while we set the new parameters for the following season.” A concern of a number of Italian designers is that of copyright,

although Coin sees this as less of a setback today. “Roberto Coin does so many different designs today that the people who normally copy our work do not know what to copy,” he explained. “The sad fact is that copying does persist and it is the duty of countries to protect and respect design and intellectual property and assist with the apprehension of those who make a living from copying other people’s creative work.” Coin encourages the industry to clean itself up, as the future is not going to be easy. “The diamond industry has done a lot to clean up the diamond trade and jewellery must follow the same path if it wants to survive. I believe we will see a big reduction in the number of jewellers in the future and only the ones who put major effort in will survive. The jeweller of the future will become a more professional person.” For 2013, the exhibition centre area will be extended by a further 15 000 m², with new buildings, new services and new projects. (Left, from top): Roberto Coin; Minister Susan Shabangu.

South Africa featured prominently, with a number of local players exhibiting their latest creations, De Beers chairman Nicky Oppenheimer receiving an award in recognition of his contribution to the diamond industry and South African Minister for Mineral Resources, Susan Shabangu, delivering an address to key players. SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2012

MARKET WATCHING

THE WORLD’S FIRST WATCH BATTERY, developed by international brand Energizer for the Hamilton watch brand, was in the late 1950s. Since then there has been a proliferation of brands and what appeared to be simple, has proved to be complex. “Never use an alkaline battery,” Fulat cautions, “only a silver oxide one. The alkaline type generally provides very short usage, with less capacity and less stable voltage which drops with use. The more costly silver oxide, either high-drain or low-drain type, usually has very high end-point voltages. Only zero mercury multi-drain batteries should be used,” says Fulat, as mercury is a very harmful substance and environmentally hazardous. There is pressure on all users to omit its usage. There are five major manufacturers of reliable battery products in various countries, but only two brands are pertinent to the South African market: these are Swiss Renata and global company Energizer, the latter of which AA Watch Wholesalers has the distribution rights. Replacing the battery with the right type relative to the watch itself is of prime importance and the customer usually doesn’t know this. This applies to the method of insertion as well, but the watchmakers at a retail jeweller’s premises are usually clued up about these details, Fulat says. Insertion should only be done by a qualified watchmaker, he cautions. There are basic rules which must be adhered to and first and foremost, the watch should be carefully examined to ensure that it is actually the battery which needs replacing and that the fault does not lie elsewhere. In general terms, a watch battery is a small-single cell squat cylinder measuring 5-12 mm in diameter and 1-6 mm high. In appearance it is similar to the button on wearing apparel (and therefore sometimes referred to as a button cell). Lithium batteries are similar, but larger. These are known as coin cells. Size is important – if incorrect, it can cause permanent damage to a watch. Packaging is usually (or should be) marked with the name or trademark of the manufacturer, the polarity and date of manufacture. The small variety are designed for continuous use in wristwatches and retain

The complex world of watch batteries

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2012

The vital component required to power either a digital or analogue electronic watch is the battery. But there are provisos regarding the type which should be used and the installation, says Adam Fulat of AA Watch Wholesalers. He explains the ins and outs of purchasing the right battery and of inserting it correctly. their charge for some time, if not used. In other words, they have quite a long shelf life, which is also an advantage for the retailer. Their construction consists of a metal can which forms the bottom and an insulated top cap. The can is positive, the top cap negative. There are some watch modules that have been designed around specific battery brands. “Despite all brands today meeting international industry standards, not all battery brands may work in some modules and trying to force a battery into a module could damage it”, says Fulat. “The unique multi-drain technology has solved the problem of battery selection,” he adds. Understandably, retail jewellers with a watchmaker on site are the major purchasers of batteries and generally persuade the customer in store which brand of battery to use, as well

as pointing out the method of insertion and the care which must be taken in the process. Both need to be educated, Fulat believes. Replacing the old battery with the wrong type could also damage the watch itself. His brand provides a battery tester to ascertain whether a new battery is actually required or if the fault lies within the watch itself. Energizer has provided a CD that details the process every step of the way – which to the layman sounds like a minefield. It is up to the jeweller and his watchmaker to select the best product for each job and up to the retail store owner to ensure that only the bestquality products are used, taking into account that there are different sizes for different watch movements. Providing this service can also be profitable in terms of customer relationships as a client might well look around the store and be tempted to buy a piece of jewellery or even another watch. And that is exactly what happened to this writer.

BRAND MANAGEMENT

Newport – top-of-the-range The Newport series is top-of-the-range from the French brand, Michel Herbelin. Two new luxury gent’s models have been released this year by the manufacturers. The Newport Trophy Grand Sport Automatic is fitted with an 11-1/2 Eta movement. Its functions are hours, minutes, seconds and date. Set in a brushed and polished stainless steel case mounted on a bracelet of matching steel and black ceramic, its folding buckle has a safety clasp. A scratch-proof

Creating emotions through beauty Chimento’s history is an all-Italian story marked by initiative and great willpower. In 1964, in Grisignano di Zocco, in the province of Vicenza, Adriano Chimento’s intuition led to the founding of Chimento and today he is still the company’s president. It is now a firm run by a modern-day dynasty of jewellers, based on traditional methods and shared passion. In-depth study on design and fashion trends, constant research for up-to-date technological solutions, combined with the skills of the artisans, result in the creation of pieces of originality and elegance. Chimento’s collections are divided into four “families”: Fashion, Basic, Gallery and Haute Couture. “Fashion” is the interpretation

sapphire crystal and see-through case-back which is screwed and water-resistant to 300 metres are other specifications. The Newport Yacht Chronograph has a Ronda movement of the same dimension and shows hours, minutes, big date and small seconds. The case of polished stainless steel has a black PVD coating and is tachymeter-engraved. The case-back has eight screws and the watch is mounted on a black or blue leather strap. This model is water-resistant to 100 metres.

of the very latest in fashion trends. This range proposes fashion-statement jewellery of timeless beauty and appeal. The “Basic” collections include classic fine gold and jewellery items, always reinterpreted with originality and attention to detail. “Gallery” pieces are “historical”, but still up to date, each one strongly identifying the brand and its style. Chimento describes its “Haute Couture” collection as “the highest expression of the company’s creativity – creations that represent interpretation of luxury, in the best traditions of outstanding artisan skills”. Its latest Uomo collection is designed especially for men. The collection features refined and precious styles, combined with trendy and contemporary designs. This approach is also reflected in the choice of the materials used: not only gold and diamonds, but also stainless steel, aluminium and titanium. Chimento can be found in Europe, Asia, Africa and North, Central and South America, in almost 50 countries worldwide.

Style, tradition and passion for pearls The soul and essence of Utopia jewels are pearls. Particularly South Sea ones. South Sea Pearls are unique. They consist entirely of natural nacre, which surrounds a tiny nucleus inserted in the living tissue of the oyster. They are most difficult to produce and are the rarest of all. Utopia launched two new collections this year similar in the preciousness of the materials, but very different in design and style to unite innovation and tradition. The Tango and Melody collections are faithful to the brand. The presence of the pearl is at the heart of each jewel. Utopia is on a perpetual mission to create

styles that dictate unique ways of interpreting and living with pearl jewellery. The Tango collection is characterised by sharp lines and geometric shapes that create intense pieces with ample gold surfaces. Two layers of gold and diamonds intersect to form a symmetrical spiral reminiscent of the main step of the Tango from which the collection draws its name. The pearl on top of this spiral is the crowning touch on this winning design. The Melody collection is characterised by light, rounded forms. Elliptical shapes in gold and diamonds are woven into a continuous supple and

Seiko craftsman honoured Seiko Watch Corporation’s watchmaker Kazush Kannodo has received recognition from the Japanese government for his 40year involvement in his craft. The award of the “Medal with a Yellow Ribbon” is in honour of his distinguished service to watchmaking – given to an individual who through his diligence, perseverance and skill in his professional activities has become a public role model. Kannodo has won recognition on several occasions as one of the most skilled watchmaking specialists and today teaches Seiko’s young watchmakers. He is the fifth Seiko craftsman to receive this honour and hands down his skill and expertise to the next generation of watch craftsmen. An example of his work is the Caliber Credor 6599, which is a chronograph with hand-engraving.

sinuous chain. The pearl, located at the centre of the ellipse, is cradled by this continual succession of surfaces. Continuing with musical names, as is the tradition in Utopia, necklaces, earrings, bracelets and rings come to life. They combine the classic charm of the pearls, the traditional quality of the “Made in Italy” label and sophisticated design with an international flavor. The Tango and Melody collections are available incorporating South Seas or Tahitian pearls in white, rose and yellow gold with burnished white and brown diamonds.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2012

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Contact Ronald or Lauren Room 401, 4th Floor, East Wing, The Hamlet, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193 Tel: 011 642 2018/9 • Fax: 011 642 2016 • Email: ungarbros@worldonline.co.za • Website: www.ungarbros.co.za

“Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” – Leonardo da Vinci

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BRAND MANAGEMENT

Go-Girl Only watches for young, fashion-conscious women SMB, renowned French watch manufacturer, is behind the latest range of affordable watches for women, called “Girl Only”. The French watchmaker was one of the first companies to identify a market for young, fashionable women following the international trend of wearing watches as a fashion accessory. With this concept in mind, the elegant and stylish line of Girl Only watches was developed. The Girl Only brand features more than 200 different fashionable designs that are specifically tailored for young fashion-

conscious women. These timepieces are priced from R599-R1 099 for on-the-spot purchases and reflect the confident individuality and feminine chic of today’s young women. Girl Only watches are already available at more than 1 000 points of sale in France and have overwhelmed the German market. SMB has recently introduced the brand in the Netherlands, the Middle East and now in South Africa. Girl Only watches, distributed by Spectra Wholesalers locally, use the reliable Myota movement and come with a two-year guarantee.

Pistorius appointed U-Boat ambassador The strength and perseverance of disabled athlete Oscar Pistorius are a source of inspiration not only to South Africans, but also to millions of people around the world. He has shown everyone how to live with limitations, to display strength, individuality and inner confidence. It is these attributes which have inspired Italian watch brand U-Boat to choose him as brand ambassador. “He is an icon of our time,” says Marc Hoffman, CEO of Luks Group, the brand’s South African distributors. U-Boat is becoming a must-have accessory for both style icons and collectors. Its distinctive look and feel can be traced back to 1942 when the Italian government commissioned a timepiece for the navy. It had a large face design which was distinctive and became part of its heritage of form and unique function. Coincidentally, Pistorius was named GQ’S Best-Dressed Man in 2011. He has also been named one of Time magazine’s 100 Most

Influential People in the World of 2012. These factors made him a natural choice as U-Boat’s ambassador, says Hoffman. The timepiece Pistorius wears is U-Boat’s 53 Classico Titanium Automatic Chronograph,

one of a limited edition of 300 pieces, and he is reported to have been thrilled to receive the watch and effusive in his thanks to U-Boat for this gift. It is a timepiece to get the pulse racing and make the wearer stand out in a crowd. Set in a matt black PVD case, it has a carbon fibre dial which is half masked by a blackened brass overlay emphasising the depth beneath. A porthole exhibition window reduces the effect of high pressure and ensures water-resistance to 200 m. A single ruby shines through as an indicator of the mechanical heart of its Valjoux movement, which is precision-engineered and tailored to meet the brand’s expectations. With 25 jewels and a power reserve of 44 hours, the Classico 53 Titanium Automatic Chronograph is mounted on a sleek black rubber strap and is stylishly bold. (Left): South African icon Oscar Pistorius and his U-Boat Limited Edition Classico 53 Titanium Automatic Chronograph.

Deep black and pink gold combined As its name implies, Raymond Weil’s new Maestro Petite Seconde Or Rose features the second hand positioned in a small counter zone at 6 o’clock and a rectangular date window at 3 o’clock. Its simplicity contrasts with the “Clou de Paris” décor on the black galvanic dial around the darkcoloured central area, from which the rose goldplated bombe appliquéd Roman numerals emerge to meet the hour and minute hands at regular intervals. The round 39,5 mm polished steel case with PVD rose gold finish and matching bezel has a

sapphire crystal with dual-sided anti-glare treatment. The small seconds hand is leaf-shaped and is rose gold-plated. The mechanical movement is automatic with 31 rubies and has a power reserve of 38 hours. This timepiece is mounted on a brown alligator-style calf leather strap with saddle stitching and is fitted with a rose gold finish buckle. The watch is waterresistant to 5 ATM. The Maestro collection is named for the brand’s long association with music.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2012

BRAND MANAGEMENT

Girard-Perregaux honours Desmond Tutu In recognition of his leadership example and achievements through the Desmond Tutu Peace Foundation, the Archbishop Emeritus has been presented with an engraved Swiss luxury brand Girard-Perregaux 1966 model wristwatch of timeless design at a function in Los Angeles attended by 500 people. The model in a 38 mm diameter rose gold case, mounted on a black alligator strap, has an automatic movement and is one of the brand’s legendary timepieces which combine sharp design with innovative technology. The origins of Girard-Perregaux can be traced back to 1791 and the brand is dedicated to state-of-the-art Haute Horlogerie, which is part of its unique heritage. This includes the renowned Tourbillon with three gold bridges which was presented by Constant GirardPerregaux at the Paris Universal exhibition in 1888, where he was awarded a gold medal. The brand is one of the few watchmakers to unite all the skills of design and manufacture under the same roof – which includes the forging of the “heart“: of the watch, its

movement. With over 80 registered patents, Girard-Perregaux is dedicated to research and development. The guests at the private reception at which the Nobel Peace Laureate received accolades and the gift included VIPs and members of the Global Philanthropy Group. “The leadership example that Archbishop Desmond Tutu laid before us through his efforts with his foundation is worthy of much recognition,” said a speaker at the event. “It is in our youth that we can find the hope we need in a peaceful world.” The Desmond Tutu Peace Foundation helps people and societies create cultures of peace. One of the ways this is accomplished is by developing programmes that focus on young people, using new media and traditional methods to convey to them the work and wisdom of the Archbishop Emeritus, as well as other effective ideas and methods for “living peace”. “We should strive to live in a place where people not only show respect, but also love the

differences in one another. The world we have is a gift to cherish,” he said. He congratulated Girard-Perregaux for its support in achieving these goals.

A site brimming with history

Latest innovation from Ronda A new 12-1/2” calibre quartz movement which incorporates a calendar system that combines the conventional date with horizontal day display at the 12 o’clock position has been added by Ronda to its Startech 5000 line. Its classic 3-9 o’clock three-eye look has also been retained. The 5040E chronograph, which has a centre stop second, has been extended to a tenth-of-a-second and a separate 30-minute and 10-hour counter. The Startech 5000 range of watch movements now runs to 18 multi-functions and chronographs.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2012

The Joux Valley Museum of Watchmaking, which records 250 years of the history of exceptional timepieces, has been renovated to propel it into the 21st century. Two floors of exhibits in this “new-generation” museum showcase the renowned watchmaking region’s expertise, its aim also being to encourage future professionals and inform the public – which includes regional tourists. This small area in the south-western part of Switzerland’s Jura region, barely 25 km from end to end, with a population of some 6 200, is the cradle of high watchmaking and home to prestigious brands such as Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger LeCoultre. The inhabitants of this somewhat isolated region with its shimmering lake have been devoted to the art of watchmaking for more than two centuries. A wealth of experience has accumulated among its world-renowned manufacturers, artisans’ small workshops and in the skills passed from father to son. The museum brings together a series of collections consisting of movements, watches, clocks, tools, photographs and documents. For those interested in the art of horology, it is a site brimming with history.

MARKET WATCHING

Police now an aspirational brand Police, a former niche brand, has become more mainstream and the market is more accepting of an “executive” style with close attention to detail. Consequently, it has a broad-based mass appeal. “It has become aspirational,” reports Rowan Jacobson, MD of CJR Gift Sales, the brand’s South African distributor. “The consumer is buying into a lifestyle; the brand has a historical connection,” he says. The European Spring/Summer of this year has seen sleek metallic and rich masculine overtones dominating this collection, which includes diverse accessories that reinforce the brand’s long-standing reputation for sharp design that is at the apex of urbanwear fashion. High-quality materials from metal to leather render the timepieces – as well as necklaces and bracelets – more eclectic so that every individual wearer can to find a representative piece. Steel and gold–founded watches with oversized facades characterise the watch range

and are striking and practical for day and night wear, making a statement with an edge. An attention-getting model in this collection is the Avenger, which is defined by its thick leather strap in black or white on which is mounted the steel and rose gold-framed rectangular watch face. The sundial dial’s facade is marked by time notches to match the frame, as well as an oversized 12 o’clock mark. The face is completed with a red-tipped hand. Indicative of the brand’s cool and unique style is Angel, presented in a contemporary way. This piece is crafted using its signature bold link bracelet embellished with the brand’s iconic “P” on either side of the dial’s interface. Its façade is finished with wide corners, highlighting the exaggerated numerals at each 15-minute mark. Two versions are available – in steel or gold, the contemporary dial adorned with a stamped pattern of numerals.

Defender’s thick square frame is of moulded steel or IP black metal and a grooved pattern dotted with silver studs. This surrounds a circular clock with sizeable hands. Complementing the look is a broad leather strap to provide a distinguished appearance. Enforce-X is a modern, attention-getting take on a classic. Two finished-leather straps straddle an oversized round watch face defined by a ring of silver time nodes which encircle a sphere of red numbers indicating the numeral time. The white-lined clock dials meet in the centre of a refined round plate, contrasting with a polished interface. Three additional striking watch designs and six pieces – which include necklaces on strong links and bracelets with a masculine look – complete this collection. (Left): The thick square frame of Defender has a grooved pattern dotted with silver studs surrounding a clock with sizeable hands. (Far left): Avenger is characterised by a thick leather strap which serves as a foundation for the steel and rose goldframed rectangular watch face.

Real watches for real people Situated in the picturesque Jura Mountains, the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry, are the headquarters of Oris watches. The brand has resolutely concentrated on making timepieces with mechanical movements since its establishment in 1904, the mantra of this independent company being “real watches for real people”. Among its new models released this year is the Atrix GT Chronograph, which builds on the brand’s connection to motorsport, combining contemporary design with elegance. The movement is automatic and in addition to the chronograph function, it features date. The two-piece dial has a matt black ring and tachymetric scale, minute and hour counters and applied indexes. A small retrograde mechanism is an interesting addition. The case is stainless steel, while the case-back has a see-through mineral glass through which the Oris red rotor is visible. The bezel rotates

in both directions, its special feature being a rubber coating for good grip. Minutes and hours are at 12 and 6 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock. The polished nickel hands have Superluminova inlay. The watch is water-resistant to 100 m and is mounted on a rubber strap with folding clasp. A limited edition of 2 000 pieces is the Tubbataha, named after the national park of that name in the Phillippines, home to the most beautiful coral reefs. It is a diver’s watch water-resistant to 500 m in a multi-piece case of titanium with a protected crown and automatic helium valve. This piece has a black ceramic bezel inlay and a blue dial. The motif on the dial displays a shark, in homage to the endangered creatures which live within the reefs at this underwater sanctuary. The new Oris Big Crown Timer is envisaged as a pilot’s best friend, a classic design with a modern twist. Its focal point is an outer top

ring with minute scale. In a stainless steel case which is coated with gunmetal colouring, its special feature is a double-domed sapphire crystal with non-reflective coating on the inside and screwed case-back with see-through mineral crystal. Date display at 3 o’clock and the day at 9 o’clock are other features. It is mounted on a dark brown calfskin leather strap with contrasting stitching. The new Oris Atelier Regulator is a fourth new addition to the brand’s current collection and is a redesigned version of this line – an established part of the Oris range, but with improved lines of the horns which integrate perfectly into the balanced case body. The indexes on the dial have been softened to make them less aggressive at the points. (Above): The New Atrix Chornograph from Oris has a seethrough mineral glass case-back to highlight the typical red rotor of the brand. (Left, from top): The new Oris Big Crown Timer is seen as a pilot’s best friend; a unique diver’s watch, Tubbataha is a limited edition of 2 000 with a dark blue face to ensure speedy readability.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2012

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THE ART OF CARVING JEWELLERY TAKES different forms which include cameo, intaglio and engraved gems, the distinction between them being that in a cameo the carved design stands up in relief from the background, whereas in intaglio the design is carved into the stone. The most prized cameos were carved from hard-stone which had different coloured layers – in agate, for example, there are grey, brown or black with a white streak. A great deal of skill was required in the utilisation of these bands so that the subject stood out of the creamy-white layer from the dark background. The effect was like a small sculpture. Other materials which have been used are coral, opal, jet and even jade. One tends to associate cameos with brooches from the Victorian era but, like many jewellery processes, there is nothing new under the sun. The art of engraving gems was actually developed in ancient times and spread from Egypt to Greece and Rome. It was an ancient culture in Egypt, where the sacred beetle or scarab – usually as an amulet – was an early form of cameo carving. This theme spread to other lands where scarabs were replaced by other subjects. The custom lapsed to some degree, to be revived in the late Middle Ages and during the Renaissance. A renewed interest in ancient customs during the Neo-Classical period – which lasted from about 1766-1820, resulting from great archaeological discoveries – saw the production of some very fine cameos and intaglios, reviving a favourite form of art until the 1880s. This Neo-Classical period of the late 18th century was replaced during the Victorian era by the Romantic-Gothic style and it was during this period that the cameo in the form of a brooch was at the height of its popularity and mostly associated with this form of jewellery. It was also at its most plentiful. Queen Victoria was a dominant and influential figure and during her reign, cameos were the favourite form of decorative jewellery – a fashion which endured for around 50 years. Engravings were of gods and heroes, as well as stories from mythology. These cameos were regarded as works of art, nor merely adornments. Victorian cameos were rather large, but exceptionally well executed. This era saw major

Of cameos and carving

The interest in cameos as a form of wearable jewellery has dwindled. Yet it was an ancient and once popular form of adornment, especially in the Victorian era, writes Alice Weil. changes in subjects which were chosen for their attractive appearances. They became prettier and included nymphs and goddesses, as well as mythological scenes such as the Three Graces. Heads of the Prince Consort, court beauties and Lord Byron were other favourite subjects. Certain shells were used for these carvings and the most common in this era were the helmet and the queen conch – the former brown and white with layers of rust and cornelian, the latter pink and white. Unfortunately, in time, the quality of the cheaper cameos at the lower end of the market led to a decline in their popularity. But some of us can find examples of Victorian cameo brooches in Granny’s jewel casket. Italians have revived interest in the art of cameo carving with shells harvested from the Mediterranean Sea and this art has been extended to coral jewellery and objets d’art. A large operation can be visited at Sorrento and the results are available to tourists on the Isle of Capri. Their work can also be seen at the European jewellery trade fairs such as Vicenza and Baselworld. Carved or engraved gemstones are usually

semi-precious. Strictly speaking, engraving means carving in intaglio, with the design cut into the background by gem-cutting artists onto a flat, hard surface of silver, gold, steel or even glass. This can be done by burin or machines and is practised by goldsmiths Most carved gems were functional, originally used as seals and were often mounted in a ring. A seal was a distinctly personal signature in antiquity and made forging more difficult if it was finely carved. The technique involved making the cut bigger, mostly by using abrasive powder – generally emery – from harder stones in conjunction with a hand drill. This is a process which has been used since antiquity and it was a classical art form highly valued in the European Middle Ages. These gems were used to decorate elaborate pieces of goldsmiths’ work such as crowns. There have been many famous collections of these items from European countries such as England, Italy, Germany and Russia, as well as from the USA. Steuben glass might well be an example of the last-mentioned. An offshoot of this art form called Jasperware was developed by Joshua Wedgwood in England in the late 18th century, this famous ceramic line with white on blue matte producing the slightly translucent stone.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JULY 2012

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