SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • February 2024

SA

jewellerynews FEBRUARY 2024

WE LOOK AT

Fire obsidian’s beguiling spectrum

Global watch crime database expands

People who shaped the diamond industry

The dark side of the moon

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CO N T E N T S

contents 9. NEWS

• Swatch Group welcomes court decision against Samsung watch faces • GIA unveils enhanced jade report • De Beers announces changes to Executive Committee • PlatAfrica Pop-Up Store still open • Italian grading lab warns of synthetic diamond scam • WFDB response to G7 statement on Russian diamonds

12. INDIVIDUALS WHO SHAPED THE DIAMOND INDUSTRY IN 2023 Rapaport has named its “People of the Year”, reflecting the broad range of challenges impacting the trade – and some of the solutions

14. UNETHICAL DIGITAL MARKETING: TIME TO DRAW THE LINE Dr Petré Prins, MD of Prins & Prins Diamonds, shares an analysis of the Google ratings and Instagram followers of Cape Town jewellers

14 SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

CO N T E N T S

18. COVER FEATURE Independent investment company Fledge Capital has thrown its weight behind South Africa’s high-end online watch retailer, Luxury Time

21. SCENE AROUND Fossil Group SA has unveiled its store re-opening at the Canal Walk Shopping Centre

23. EDUCATIONAL INSERT In the spotlight: Fire obsidian’s beguiling spectrum

32. GLOBAL WATCH CRIME PREVENTION DATABASE EXPANDS SIGNIFICANTLY The Watch Register actively searches for lost and stolen watches on the global pre-owned market until they are recovered

38. REVEALING THE DARK SIDE OF THE MOON When the structure governing the operation of the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme was being formulated in 2001, its architects addressed the non-existence of reliable data relating to the trade of rough diamonds

43. INCORPORATING TECHNOLOGY CRITICAL FOR BUSINESS SUCCESS In today’s rapidly changing business environment, the significance of employee productivity and satisfaction cannot be overstated

44. BORN IN AFRICA A comprehensive directory featuring information and contact details of all members of the Jewellery Manufacturing Association of South Africa

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Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2024. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

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Ladies Luxury

STAINLESS STEEL www.annab.co.za

JEWELLERY

Editor's note

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Design and layout: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za Operations Director: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za

WELCOME TO OUR FIRST ISSUE OF 2024.

There are many opportunities and challenges that each year brings. Life is all about our resilience and our ability to go through the ups and downs with a positive attitude. Despite the harshness many of us may have endured over the past few years, no winter lasts forever.

We are grateful for the privilege of serving the industry once again this year, a responsibility we do not take lightly, and we hope 2024 brings numerous exciting opportunities and successes to us all.

We start our 96th year of publication strongly, with an interesting and diverse issue which we hope you enjoy reading as much as we did putting it together.

Have you ever wondered why a few SA jewellers have 60 000+ Instagram followers, while others struggle to get 1 000? Dr Petré Prins, MD of Prins & Prins Diamonds and former senior lecturer in mineralogy and geology at Stellenbosch University, did an analysis of the Google ratings and Instagram followers of Cape jewellers and shares his findings exclusively in SAJN. We also look at individuals who shaped the diamond industry in 2023 after the Rapaport Group recently named its “People of the Year”.

When the structure and mechanisms governing the operation of the Kimberley Process (KP) Certification Scheme were being formulated in 2001 and 2002, ahead of the system’s launch in January 2003, its architects addressed what in many respects was the dark side of the moon – the nonexistence of reliable and verifiable data relating to the production and trade of rough diamonds. In this issue, we look at how, in many respects, the collection and collation of data from all the KP participant countries was the most complex project undertaken by a single KP body.

We also examine why the significance of employee productivity and satisfaction cannot be overstated, especially in today’s rapidly changing business environment and how incorporating technology is critical for business success.

We have some really exciting projects we are keen to share with you and we look forward to seeing our industry flourish as we work together this year.

Happy reading!

Adri Viviers

Advertising Sales: Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 083-450-6052

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Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

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Distribution: Ruth Dlamini

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd

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WE LOOK

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

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2024 FEBRUARY

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ON THE COVER Luxury Time will be celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Founded by entrepreneur Adriaan Rootman, the premier watch shop sells high-end, brand-name pre-owned authentic timepieces and has made a strong name for itself in the luxury timepiece industry.

It has a wide selection to choose from, including brands such as Rolex, Omega and Cartier. Luxury Time also offers a variety of services, such as watch repairs and restorations, virtual consultations and free shipping across SA. For more information, contact Luxury Time on tel: 087-821-8899 or (012) 940-1055 or e-mail: info@luxurytime.co.za.

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NEWS

Swatch Group welcomes court decision against Samsung watch faces The Swatch Group has won a milestone trademark case against Samsung in the UK. In 2022, Justice Falk held that Samsung had infringed trademarks belonging to a number of well-known Swiss watch brands of the Swatch Group, including Omega, Tissot, Longines and Swatch. On 15 December 2023, in the Court of Appeal in London, in a case which will have a significant impact on Internet trademark law, Lord Justice Arnold, Lord Justice Lewison and Lady Justice Elisabeth Laing comprehensively rejected Samsung’s appeal.

The Appeal Court confirmed the trial judge’s ruling that certain downloadable “watch face” apps available on Samsung’s Galaxy App store, which could be installed onto its smartwatches, infringed the trademarks of companies of the Swatch Group. The infringements included such famous trademarks of Swiss watch-making as Breguet, Blancpain, Jacquet Droz, Glashütte Original, Omega, Long-

ines, Tissot, Hamilton, Mido and Swatch.

The widest impact of the case is likely to come from its treatment of the “E-Commerce Directive” defences. Samsung argued that it had a defence to a claim for damages, because the watch face apps had been supplied by third-party developers through its online Galaxy App store.

At trial, the judge rejected Samsung’s defence of “mere hosting” (Art 14 of the E-Commerce Directive) on the basis of the knowledge test in Article 14(1), saying: “The test is one of whether a diligent economic operator should have identified the illegality by reference to facts or circumstances of which it is (actually) aware. The existence of notice and take-down procedures does not in itself provide a defence.” The Court of Appeal went on to hold that Samsung could not rely on Article 14 at all, because “Samsung’s acts of use of the disputed signs were active and gave it knowledge of and control over that content. They were not

merely technical, automatic and passive, with no knowledge or control. Thus they were not within Article 14(1).”

Mireille Koenig, the Swatch Group co-Chief Legal Officer and member of the Extended Group Management Board, said: “The Swatch Group is pleased with the judgment, which looked at a new form of trademark infringement in the digital age and the liability of online providers such as Samsung’s Galaxy Store. The court reached the right result, protecting the exclusivity and value of our iconic watch brands.”

GIA unveils enhanced jade report The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), whose expertise spans gemmological research, laboratory services and education, is introducing the GIA Jade Report, featuring additional gemmological information and a sleek, user-friendly layout to enhance the overall report experience for both industry professionals and consumers.

“We made these improvements to our ‘Jade Report’ recognising its history, symbolism and overall importance to consumers,” says Tom Moses, Executive Vice-President and Chief Laboratory and Research Officer at the GIA. The new GIA Jade Report provides key

information in a streamlined format. One notable improvement is the inclusion of a dedicated section under “Results” that details the type, when appropriate. The addition of a table featuring type definitions further adds to the report’s depth and clarity.

The commonly used trade term “Fei Cui” will be listed in the comments section when appropriate, with an explanatory note stating that “Fei Cui” refers to jadeite, omphacite and kosmochlor.

• For further information about the GIA Jade Report and other laboratory services, visit: GIA.edu.

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NEWS

PlatAfrica Pop-Up Store still open Annually, Anglo American Platinum, Platinum Guild International (PGI) India and Metal Concentrators host the PlatAfrica jewellery design and manufacture competition, which celebrates and supports the South African platinum industry by giving student, apprentice and professional jewellers the opportunity to work, experiment, innovate and develop their technical expertise with the metal. PlatAfrica highlights the strength and beauty of platinum, while revealing the glowing jeweller talent of SA. Every year an original theme is chosen for the competition, producing one-of-a-kind, statement pieces of jewellery. Every year many of those pieces are melted down in order to re-use the precious platinum.

The PlatAfrica Pop-Up Store, which is exclusively online, gives the public an opportunity to invest in the precious resource of platinum and in the local jewellery industry. To view or shop pieces from the PlatAfrica 2023 Emergence collection, visit: https://plat.africa.

WFDB response to G7 statement on Russian diamonds The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), which represents 27 diamond bourses and close to 30 000 bourse members worldwide, has reiterated its support for the objectives of the G7 to restrict the import of rough and polished diamonds originating in Russia.

“The WFDB will continue to co-operate with the G7 and the World Diamond Council in their efforts to establish a practical and effective mechanism to fulfil these objectives,” it said in a statement.

“The WFDB seeks to ensure that the mechanism to be adopted by the G7 will facilitate access of responsibly sourced diamonds to G7 markets and will limit impediments and unnecessary additional costs to diamond trading.”

The G7 countries are considering imposing a single entry point within the G7 for the registration and inspection of rough diamonds to ensure that they are not of

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

Russian origin and that, after being polished, only these diamonds will be able to be sold in G7 markets as polished diamonds. This will oblige companies around the world who wish to market polished diamonds within the G7 to open an office in this single point of entry. Moreover, having only one point for registration and inspection will impose additional costs of time and money to the diamond trade.

“The proposed mechanism, as we understand it, will be detrimental to the worldwide diamond industry throughout the entire pipeline – from producing countries through to the consumer. It’s possible to create a more efficient and effective mechanism by allowing additional major diamond centres that deal with rough diamonds (for example Israel, Mumbai and Dubai), as well as the producing countries in Africa and elsewhere, to conduct the inspection and registration themselves, thus streamlining the process and saving considerable costs. I call upon the G7 countries to engage with the industry organisations in order to reach a more equitable and balanced mechanism,” said WFDB President Yoram Dvash.

NEWS

Italian grading lab warns of synthetic diamond scam Italian gemmological lab Gem-Tech has warned the trade that a number of lab-grown diamonds circulating in the country are being sold as natural.

Three stones were recently submitted to the lab accompanied by certificates from the GIA stating they were natural. Gem-Tech weighed the stones and found them to be nearly identical to those recorded on the GIA certificates. The stones also had laser inscriptions with a visible GIA logo which matched those the lab had seen before from other GIA-graded stones.

However, further investigation indicated that the stones had been fraudulently paired with the grading reports, while the inscriptions appeared to be forgeries.

When the Italian lab exposed the diamonds to ultraviolet light to detect fluorescence, it discovered that the stones were inert, whereas the reports described the level of fluorescence as “faint”. The diamonds were then checked using spectrophotometric analysis and displayed a distinct greenish coloration and other characteristics commonly found in synthetics created using chemical vapour deposition.

Once the lab checked the report numbers against the GIA website, it realised that they were issued for other, natural stones that were only slightly different from those submitted to Gem-Tech.

submitted, Gem-Tech believes there might be more, it told Rapaport News.

“The client who submitted them for identification reported that these stones weren’t the only ones being offered,” the lab added. “Other dealers have mentioned that these three synthetic diamonds, identifiable by their report data, have been presented in other parts of the country.”

If consumers are purchasing a diamond from a seller with whom they do not have a relationship, they should have the grading report updated by the GIA before completing the sale, the institute advised in a statement to Rapaport News.

“We’ve seen an increase in fraudulent inscriptions on stones submitted to the GIA in several locations and, depending on the

“Gem-Tech has seen this happen before,” the lab said. “It wouldn’t be the first time that malicious individuals obtained reprints of authentic reports and paired them with stones other than those described.”

Although there were only three stones

circumstances of the submission of stones with counterfeit inscriptions, we consider all the options outlined in our client agreement, including notifying the submitting client, law enforcement and the public,” the GIA added.

– Rapaport

De Beers announces changes to Executive Committee The De Beers Group has announced that David Prager, Executive Vice-President and Chief Brand Officer, and Ryan Perry, Acting Executive Vice-President of Strategy and Innovation, have decided to leave De Beers in 2024.

The group also announced the appointment of Tom Johnson as General Counsel, with effect from 1 January 2024. In this role, he has joined the Executive Committee, overseeing the company’s legal and company secretariat functions.

Both Prager and Perry will continue to serve on the Executive Committee while overseeing the transition of their responsibilities to its other members. Prager will also continue to serve as Chairperson of the Natural Diamond Council (NDC) until a successor is elected by the NDC board.

Prager joined De Beers in 2006 and has led the transformation of the group’s purpose and brand.

Reflecting on his contribution to De Beers, Al Cook, its Chief Executive Officer, says: “Throughout his time at De Beers, David’s insight, creativity and leadership have propelled us forward. He transformed our brand and marketing strategy, managed complex issues in a way that built trust with stakeholders and strengthened our reputation around the world, and designed a sustainability framework that’s protected the natural world, improved people’s lives and deepened our clients’ connection to our diamonds.

While I’m very sorry to lose David, I know that his

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values and ability to build common ground will stay with De Beers for years to come.”

Perry joined De Beers in 2002 and has worked in operational and strategic leadership roles across the value chain.

“From tackling technical mining challenges to predicting the future of diamond demand, Ryan has contributed outstandingly across the De Beers Group,” says Cook. “He’s always been effective in bringing different parties to work together successfully, leading change programmes during the global pandemic, leading strategy development and leading the creation of the Diamonds for Development Fund in Botswana. In my time at De Beers, Ryan has helped me understand the nuances of the market and our product. I’m deeply grateful for his wide-ranging contributions.”

Tom Johnson is based in the UK and first joined De Beers as part of Element Six in 2016.

“In his current role as Head of Legal and Company Secretary, Tom’s demonstrated an unparalleled understanding of the complexities that come with being a 135-year-old company with a global footprint and the opportunities we have to simplify the company. He’s personally led the management of legal issues and negotiations in Botswana and across our portfolio. I’m confident that he’s the right person to shape a streamlined focus to our corporate structure, while maintaining our proud position as an ethical leader of the diamond industry.”

(Above, from top): David Prager, Ryan Perry and Tom Johnson.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

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3

Image: De Beers

Image: Signet Jewellers

1

Image: Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC)

PE O PL E O F T H E YE AR

Individuals who shaped the diamond industry in 2023

Image: Signet Jewellers

Image: De Beers

Now in her sixth year at the wheel of Signet Jewellers, Gina DrososIthas a thought and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) hasbecome not been an easy time to be both President of the WDC andImage: Senior Gem Vice-President of leader in the world of diamond retail, as well as a smart strategist. She appearsAffairs to haveatbeen Corporate De Beers. Feriel Zerouki and the WDC oversaw a proposal for the first public voice to argue that a slowdown in dating during the Covid-19 pandemic implementing Groupwas of Seven (G7) sanctions on Russian diamonds documentation and online forum with representatives of the indus Theusing GJEPC holds a monthly one of the main reasons for this year’s lull in engagements. audits – a plan that came to be known as the G7 Diamond Protocol.

Performing these two trends and concerns.

In September 2023, with polished prices tumbling ami roles is understandably awkward, given that De Beers has a commercial interest in reducing and an oversupply, the Indian trade body decided that the situation warrante Drosos has succeeded in turning the group’s store banners – including Kayaccess Jewellers, Zales market for its main rival, Russian miner Alrosa. The protocol – alongside otherThe plansattendees – physical gathering. came to a unanimous conclusion: India ne and Jared – from dying mall chains into relevant modern retail locations.

The recent past has also faced criticism for its potential impact on artisanal miners. pause in rough diamond imports to prevent inventories from getting out of c been difficult; sales fell 10% year on year to US$4,67 billion for the company’s first three industry implemented this freeze for two months, from 15 October-15 Dece fiscal quarters, which ended on 28 October 2023. However, she believes Signet It remains tohas be seen whether the governments and the industry will use the protocol or pressure off the and enabling the market to stabilise. positioned itself well to benefit from a “multi-year” recovery in bridal demand. elements of it to keep Russian diamonds out of the market. However, Zerouki has sector still been one of the most important people in the industry this year.

Insiders at the GJEPC say it was an industry-wide call for an import morato From a reporter’s point of view, Drosos has managed to turn Signet’s post-results investor calls – previously dull affairs – into an hour well spent listening to insights on the diamond country has made similar moves in past crises. However, it was the GJEPC and jewellery market. This year, she explained how the company used 45 “relationship people together and managed the process following the crunch meeting. Vip 4 5 6 milestones” to predict the rate of engagements and adjust its inventory accordingly.

Vipul Shah, Chairperson: Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) Chairperson, was at the forefront.

Feriel Zerouki, President: World Diamond Council (WDC)

Image: Prime Minister’s Office

Image: Facebook

President Masisi/Twitter

Mokgweetsi Masisi, President of Botswana

Image: Mokgweetsi Masisi (left) with De Beers’ then-CEO Bruce Cleaver (centre) and Image: Facebook Botswana’s Minister of Minerals and Energy Lefoko Moagi in 2022. (President Image: Prime Minister Narendra Modi (right) with USA President Joe Bide Masisi/Twitter) Sir Gabriel “Gabi” Tolkowsky makes this list because of what he achieved prior to 2023,

Rapaport has named its “People of the Year”, reflecting the broad of challenges 2023. (Primerange Minister’s Office) impacting the trade – and some of the solutions.

rather than during it. He died in March last year and was greatly mourned by the industry, President Mokgweetsi Masisi’s endeavour to drive a better diamond sales attained deal for the people as one of history’s most renowned diamond-cutters. having a reputation of his country was among the most memorable stories of 2023.

Prime Minister Narendra Modi had a number of contact points with the jew

2023. inaugurated the Surat Diamond Bourse in December. He also rais Tolkowsky “was a pioneer and a master craftsman who understood theHe wonder of diamonds The government and De Beers reached a provisional deal just before their Junepeople”, deadline, by referring to lab-grown diamonds as “green diamonds”. like few30 other said De Beers, where he worked for 20 years as a manufacturer. but this only came after relations between the two parties appeared to have become While there, he cut the 273,85ct Centenary Diamond.

“IN EARLY 2023, THE TRADITIONAL JANUARY sanctioning Russian diamonds – added to in the headlines. The Rapaport Group has increasingly strained. At one point, amid ongoing speculation in the media, both sides However, his most significant move was gifting a 7,5ct lab-grown diamond pledged not to take part in public discussions.

On another occasion, they had to refute a report stock replenishment was slower than usual theofuncertainty. chosen to spread among several Lady Jill Biden during athe statehonours visit in June, symbolising India’s 75 years of Part a famous diamond family, he was known for his ability to “romance” a stone. that the government wanted to stop selling large stones to De Beers.

and manufacturers limited polished production

“Our ‘People of the Year’ reflect these

The fact that there general coming up in 2024 is relevant: some ofSome Masisi’s in response.

Asarethe yearelections went on, it became realities. were directly involved in solving fiercest calls for a greater share of diamond profits came at political rallies, including when Narendra Modi, of India clearer thatthreatened the industry wasDe inBeers crisis.

Labthe enough. industry’s Prime acute Minister problems – facilitating he reportedly to part with if the deal was not good

grown diamonds gained popularity faster

India’s freeze on rough imports, for example,

the Rapaport Group noted before naming its 2023 “People of the Year”. “The industry Gabi Tolkowsky, Belgian diamond-cutter took measures to handle the downturn. At the same time, other events – such as De Beers’ new deal with Botswana and negotiations over

As with the famous Time Person of the Year, inclusion in this list is not necessarily a recognition of an individual’s positive contribution, but rather of their influence on the diamond industry and/or presence

The agreement, which is not final, promises Botswana’s state-owned Okavango Diamond than some in the industry had expected.

USA or identifying ways Company a larger portion of the country’s rough, raising its share from the current 25% to a to adapt retail strategy to maximum of 50% over 10 years. Securing these terms was a victory for Botswana and consumer sentiment stagnated and China’s the situation. One of them arguably made the Masisi, and a sign of the changing relationship between producing countries and the corporations that profit from their resources. much-anticipated recovery never happened,” situation worse for the natural diamond sector.”

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Indian Commerce Industry Minister Piyush figures, rather& than bestowing themGoyal all onproudly referred to the friendly” in a tweet. The stone’s producer, Surat-based Greenlab, uses only one individual. energy.

The rise of lab-grown diamonds in the USA’s consumer market – and the re 1. Gina Drosos, CEO: Signet Jewellers demand for naturals – was one of the biggest themes of 2023. Without even Now inhave her done sixthmore yeartoatpublicise the wheel of Signet Modi may the product than years of marketing managed.

Jewellers, Gina Drosos has become a thought

leader in the world of diamond retail, as well as a smart strategist. She appears to have been – Information courtesy of Rapaport News the first public voice to argue that a slowdown in dating during the Covid-19 pandemic was one of the main reasons for this year’s lull in engagements.

PULL QUOTE:

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

PE O PL E O F T H E YE AR

Drosos has succeeded in turning the group’s store banners – including Kay Jewellers, Zales and Jared – from dying mall chains into relevant modern retail locations. The recent past has been difficult; sales fell 10% year on year to US$4,67 billion for the company’s first three fiscal quarters, which ended on 28 October 2023. However, she believes Signet has positioned itself well to benefit from a “multiyear” recovery in bridal demand.

From a reporter’s point of view, Drosos has managed to turn Signet’s post-results investor calls – previously dull affairs – into an hour well spent listening to insights on the diamond and jewellery market. This year, she explained how the company used 45 “relationship milestones” to predict the rate of engagements and adjust its inventory accordingly.

2. Feriel Zerouki, President: World Diamond Council (WDC) It has not been an easy time to be both President of the WDC and Senior VicePresident of Corporate Affairs at De Beers.

Feriel Zerouki and the WDC oversaw a proposal for implementing Group of Seven (G7) sanctions on Russian diamonds using documentation and audits – a plan that came to be known as the G7 Diamond Protocol.

Performing these two roles is understandably awkward, given that De Beers has a commercial interest in reducing market access for its main rival, Russian miner Alrosa.

The protocol – alongside other plans – also faced criticism for its potential impact on artisanal miners.

It remains to be seen whether the governments and the industry will use the protocol or elements of it to keep Russian diamonds out of the market. However, Zerouki has still been one of the most important people in the industry this year.

3. Vipul Shah, Chairperson: Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) The GJEPC holds a monthly online forum with representatives of the industry to discuss trends and concerns. In September 2023, with polished prices tumbling amid weak retail sales and an oversupply, the Indian trade body decided that the situation warranted a broader, physical gathering. The attendees came to a unanimous conclusion: India needed a voluntary pause in rough diamond imports to prevent inventories from getting

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

out of control. The industry implemented this freeze for two months, from 15 October-15 December, taking the pressure off the sector and enabling the market to stabilise.

Insiders at the GJEPC say it was an industry-wide call for an import moratorium and that the country has made similar moves in past crises. However, it was the GJEPC that brought people together and managed the process following the crunch meeting. Vipul Shah, its Chairperson, was at the forefront.

4. Mokgweetsi Masisi, President of Botswana President Mokgweetsi Masisi’s endeavour to drive a better diamond sales deal for the people of his country was among the most memorable stories of 2023.

The government and De Beers reached a provisional deal just before their 30 June deadline, but this only came after relations between the two parties appeared to have become increasingly strained. At one point, amid ongoing speculation in the media, both sides pledged not to take part in public discussions. On another occasion, they had to refute a report that the government wanted to stop selling large stones to De Beers.

The fact that there are general elections coming up in 2024 is relevant: some of Masisi’s fiercest calls for a greater share of diamond profits came at political rallies, including when he reportedly threatened to part with De Beers if the deal was not good enough.

The agreement, which is not final, promises Botswana’s state-owned Okavango Diamond Company a larger portion of the country’s rough, raising its share from the current 25% to a maximum of 50% over 10 years. Securing these terms was a victory for Botswana and Masisi, and a sign of the changing relationship between producing countries and the corporations that profit from their resources.

5. Gabi Tolkowsky, Belgian diamond-cutter Sir Gabriel “Gabi” Tolkowsky makes this list because of what he achieved prior to 2023, rather than during it. He died in March last year and was greatly mourned by the industry, having attained a reputation as one of history’s most renowned diamond-cutters.

Tolkowsky “was a pioneer and a master craftsman who understood the wonder of diamonds like few other people”, said De Beers, where he worked for 20 years as a manufacturer. While there, he cut the 273,85ct Centenary Diamond.

Part of a famous diamond family, he was known for his ability to “romance” a stone.

6. Narendra Modi, Prime Minister of India Prime Minister Narendra Modi had a number of contact points with the jewellery industry in 2023. He inaugurated the Surat Diamond Bourse in December. He also raised a few eyebrows by referring to lab-grown diamonds as “green diamonds”.

However, his most significant move was gifting a 7,5ct lab-grown diamond to American First Lady Jill Biden during a state visit in June, symbolising India’s 75 years of independence. Indian Commerce & Industry Minister Piyush Goyal proudly referred to the stone as “eco-friendly” in a tweet. The stone’s producer, Surat-based Greenlab, uses only solar and wind energy.

The rise of lab-grown diamonds in the USA’s consumer market – and the resulting impact on demand for naturals – was one of the biggest themes of 2023. Without even using words, Modi may have done more to publicise the product than years of marketing could have managed.

– Information courtesy of Rapaport News

As with the famous Time Person of the Year, inclusion in this list is not necessarily a recognition of an individual’s positive contribution, but rather of their influence on the diamond industry and/or presence in the headlines.

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O N L I N E PR AC T I C E S

Unethical digital marketing: time to draw the line Have you ever wondered why a few SA jewellers have 60 000+ Instagram followers, while others struggle to get 1 000? Dr Petré Prins, MD of Prins & Prins Diamonds and former senior lecturer at Stellenbosch University in mineralogy and geology, did an analysis of the Google ratings and Instagram followers of Cape jewellers.

FIG 1A. INSTAGRAM FOLLOWERS VS NUMBER OF POSTS OF 102 SA JEWELLERY COMPANIES

90000 80000

Number of Followers

70000 60000 50000 40000 30000 20000 10000 0

0

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

3000

Number of Posts

3500

4000

4500

5000

not representative of the SA jewellery industry. independent, long-established bricks-andFigure 1B however, shows that of 102 SA jewellersmortar have operations more than(family 20 000 Instagram followers.

The results, are 16 intriguing. jewellers) struggle These are mostly small, relatively new designers/goldsmiths and a few family jewellers.

Figure 1A plots the number of Instagram to increase their followers above 10 000. This Chain stores about 40 000-50 000 followers, while independent, followers of 102boast SA jewellery companies figure also shows that about 12long-established jewellery bricks-and-mortar operations (family jewellers) struggle to increase against the number of posts they made up to companies have six to eight their times followers more than above 10 000.

This figure also shows that about 12 jewellery companies have six to eight times more November 2023. One would expect that an the average number of Instagram followers. than the average number of Instagram followers. increase in postings should lead to increased Figure 2 shows the number of Google followers. Surprisingly, the graph shows no five-star reviews of 115 SA jewellery correlation between the number of followers companies, grouped into designers/ and posts made, as 10% jewellers goldsmiths, family jewellers, national chains FIG 1B of theseINSTAGRAM FOLLOWERS OF 102 SA achieved more than 20 000 followers and online operators.

The 2023 average number of JEWELLERY COMPANIES - NOV with fewer than 1 000 postings. five-star Google reviews of these companies 90000 The average posting is 730 and the is a mere 46.

80000 70000 number of followers is 9 500. average Interestingly, of these 115 jewellery 60000 Figure 1B shows that 16 of 102 companies, six have review numbers which 50000 SA jewellers have more than 20 000 are suspiciously high. Four of them are 40000 Instagram Cape-based, one-shop enterprises that are 30000 followers. These are mostly small, relatively owner- operated with a relatively short trading 20000 new designers/goldsmiths 10000 jewellers. Chain stores and a few family history. The “top performer” boasts close to boast about 400000-50 000 followers, while 600 five-star reviews – 13 times more than 37 DESIGNER 48 FAMILY 5 NATIONAL 12 ONLINE GOLDSMITHS JEWELLERS CHAINS OPERATORS

INSTAGRAM FOLLOWERS

WHY DO CERTAIN JEWELLERS BOAST MORE than 500 Google five-star reviews while those of much longer standing stagnate at fewer than 100 reviews?

During the Covid-19 epidemic, I looked at the Internet performance of our local jewellers. Firstly, I decided on 30 search terms, such as certified diamonds, diamond jewellery, engagement rings, Cape Town jewellers, tanzanite jewellery Cape Town, etc – search terms which I thought the average consumer looking for fine jewellery might use. These 30 terms I Googled incognito, starting at 9am on a Monday. I recorded the number of organic, rated and paid-for (sponsored) appearances of SA jewellery companies on the first page of each search. I also noted the number of their five-star Google reviews. At the same time, I recorded the number of their Instagram postings and followers.

I repeated this exercise every three months, using the same search terms under the same conditions. Being based in the Western Cape, I intentionally included more Cape-based companies in my sample. My observations are thus

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

Figure 1B shows that 16 of 102 SA jewellers have more than 20 000 Instagram followers.

These are mostly small, relatively new designers/goldsmiths and a few family jewellers.

O N L I N E PR AC T I C E S Chain stores boast about 40 000-50 000 followers, while independent, long-established bricks-and-mortar operations (family jewellers) struggle to increase their followers above 10 000. This figure also shows that about 12 jewellery companies have six to eight times more than the average number of Instagram followers.

the average. How is this achieved? I guess it is due to exceptional service, minimal margins, an incredible inventory, clever promotions or unfair digital marketing.

When I started this project in 2020, only 60 companies appeared on Google’s first page. Three years later, using the same 30 search terms, 130 SA companies were featured, which points to a significant increase in the online activity of SA jewellers since Covid-19.

FIG 1B INSTAGRAM FOLLOWERS

Locally, the increase in online jewellery operations and the escalation of digital marketing by most bricks-andmortar jewellers have made the monitoring of unfair digital marketing a nearimpossible task.

INSTAGRAM FOLLOWERS OF 102 SA JEWELLERY COMPANIES - NOV 2023

90000 80000 70000 60000 50000 40000 30000 20000 10000 0

37 DESIGNER GOLDSMITHS

48 FAMILY JEWELLERS

5 NATIONAL CHAINS

12 ONLINE OPERATORS

Note: There are automated tools available to determine whether Instagram followers are fake and/or bought.

FakeCheck and FollowerCheck are free tools while Social Audit Pro is a paid service that provides follower analytics for Instagram accounts.

Figure 2 shows the number of Google five-star reviews of 115 SA jewellery companies, grouped into designers/goldsmiths, family jewellers, national chains and online operators.

The average number of five-star Google reviews of these companies is a mere 46.

Rules for ethical digital marketing The SA jewellery industry should note what Andrew Smith, Director of the US Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC’s) Bureau of Consumer Protection, recently said: “People

FIG 2.

5* GOOGLE REVIEWS OF 115 SA JEWELLERY COMPANIES - NOV 2023

Number of 5* reviews

700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0

36 Designer Goldsmiths

58 Family Jewellers

6 National Chains

15 Online Operators

rely on reviews when shopping online. When a company buys fake reviews to inflate its Amazon ratings, it hurts shoppers and companies that play by the rules.”

A JSK article (FTC Outlaws Fake or PaidFor Customer Reviews, by Rob Bates, 11 July 2023) highlighted the action consumer protection agencies in the USA are taking to ensure fair digital marketing. In that country, the FTC’s new rules on reviews and testimonials are an extension of existing policies that require honesty and transparency in all trade practices. Significantly, it is being codified as a “rule”, which is stronger than guidance and more likely to bring enforcement action. In short, it will prohibit the following:

Interestingly, of these 115 jewellery companies, six have review numbers which are

SA JEWELLERY NEWShigh.

- FEBRUARY suspiciously Four2024 of them are Cape-based, one-shop enterprises that are owner-

operated with a relatively short trading history. The “top performer” boasts close to 600 five-

15

O N L I N E PR AC T I C E S

• Selling or obtaining fake consumer reviews and testimonials. It will be illegal for businesses to write or post consumer reviews or testimonials by people who do not exist or have no experience of the product or service.

• Selling or buying fake social media followers.

• Review hijacking. Businesses cannot modify a consumer review written for one product to make it seem to apply to a different product.

• Buying positive or negative reviews.

Businesses cannot provide incentives to attract consumer reviews expressing a particular positive or negative sentiment.

• Insider reviews and consumer testimonials.

A company’s staff cannot write or disseminate reviews or testimonials about its products or services without clearly disclosing their relationship.

• Company-controlled review websites.

Businesses cannot create or control a website that claims to provide independent opinions about products or services, including its own products or services.

• Review suppression. Companies cannot use unjustified legal threats, intimidation or false accusations to prevent or remove negative consumer reviews.

Local challenges Locally, the increase in online jewellery operations and the escalation of digital marketing by most bricks-and-mortar jewellers have made the monitoring of unfair digital marketing a near-impossible task.

Today, most SA jewellers sell imitations, lab-grown and natural gems from the same premises. Few of them have the equipment and knowledge to separate lab-grown from natural gemstones. Mixing and inadvertent misrepresentations are bound to occur.

South African consumer activism is not

the payment of certain unpaid income tax obligations. This indicates how proactive one of our main trading partners is in stamping out unethical Internet marketing.

• Lab-grown gems Our lawmakers should be informed about the proliferation of lab-grown gems, the difficulty of identifying them and the inevitable misrepresentation that results. If our motor industry can legally regulate the selling of “genuine” vs “pirated” spare parts, so should our gem and jewellery consumers be protected by fit-for-cause legislation. strong and our consumer watchdogs have neither teeth nor funds. Our Consumer Protection Act needs a major update.

Inevitably, our consumers will increasingly be exposed to unfair trade practices and, without enforceable rules, will become victims of misrepresentation. When the public and our overseas trading partners lose faith in our industry, it will be detrimental to all.

What to focus on International trading patterns are in flux and SA’s regulatory context cannot be divorced from that of our trading partners.

• Digital marketing The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) should consider incorporating the Rules on Digital Marketing and Client Reviews (as endorsed by the USA’s FTC) in a directive to their members – and warn members that contravening these rules may lead to them losing their membership.

NB: In the USA, the FTC recently found Cure Encapsulations Inc guilty of buying fake five-star Amazon reviews. The company received a US$12,8 million fine, suspended upon payment of US$50 000 to the FTC and

• Artifical intelligence (AI) technology The growth of unethical digital marketing and the progress made by jewellers in using AI technology enforces the need for legal and ethical guidelines. Unfortunately, our laws are usually reactive. If we continue to procrastinate or disregard the growth of unfair Internet marketing, our overseas clients (mainly tourists and importers) will mistrust the integrity of our industry. Everyone will feel the knock.

• Suggestions The JCSA should consider providing guidelines and rules on the do’s and don’ts of digital marketing and establish a monitoring system with enforceable rules similar to those of our main trading partners. Without these, our industry is heading for a sad, isolated, Wild West future. I believe that to safeguard our reputation in the international diamond and jewellery industry, most JCSA members will accept a special membership levy for legal assistance in implementing the above suggestions.

16

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

Where the sparkle never fades

Suite 313 – Third Floor, 5 Sturdee Avenue, Johannesburg, South Africa Office: +27 11 268 6980 Cell: +27 64 954 1204 / +27 82 707 8676 info@afrasiandiamonds.co.za www.afrasiandiamonds.co.za

COV E R F E AT U R E

Independent investment company Fledge Capital has thrown its weight behind South Africa’s high-end online watch retailer, Luxury Time.

18

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

COV E R F E AT U R E

A matter of time IN THE 19 YEARS SINCE LUXURY TIME WAS started by entrepreneur Adriaan Rootman, the company has established a strong reputation for offering pre-owned authentic timepieces by premier brands such as Rolex, Omega, Panerai, Cartier and Audemars.

Fledge Capital’s preference for investing in solid consumer brands with unique appeal means that this new Luxury Time partnership is a perfect fit.

Rootman’s fascination with watches began when he was a child, witnessing the ritual of his father carefully placing his own watch on his bedside table every night. As a teenager dreaming of creating his own future, he spent his pocket money on Internet magazines in the CNA and realised early on that online selling was the way forward.

Following a trip to the UK to play cricket, he bought his mother a watch in Dubai duty-free. After returning to Pretoria, he

By 2014, Luxury Time had built up a devoted clientele and Rootman knew that premier watches were a winner. He started buying pre-owned watches and duly opened a boutique office space in Pretoria where customers could view their chosen selection in person.

“Fast forward another seven years and the demand for pre-owned watches – both buying and selling – has become a serious business,” he says.

There were hiccups along the way, including a move into mainstream retail, but these were all learning curves.

Now, Luxury Time operates a unique customer-first buying model: the potential purchaser selects favourite pieces from the online inventory and Luxury Time arranges an in-person viewing at one of the company’s several discreet offices across the country.

However, Rootman realised that he could

discovered that it retailed for three times the price he had paid in SA. This was his lightbulb moment: the opportunity to sell pre-owned luxury watches online. So young Rootman negotiated bulk buying of luxury watches at a discount with local shops and began trading.

However, it was slow-going.

“Online credibility was always an issue,” he recalls. “Remember, 19 years ago, no-one trusted buying high-end products through a website.”

In the first seven years he sold, at best, 50 watches, but he did notice a trend: people regularly approached him about buying their old timepieces. Instead, he offered to sell them on a consignment basis. “This was a very successful business model: I didn’t have to buy the watches, but I had stock and could make a small commission,” he says.

grow the business significantly if he had more working capital to buy more stock/watches.

Several investors expressed interest in investing capital in Luxury Time, but he was uncertain – until his introduction to Fledge Capital.

Founded in 2010, Fledge Capital is not a traditional private equity fund, but an investment company with permanent capital for private equity transactions. Its founders, property investor Louis van der Watt and investment banker Konrad Fleischhauer, shared a vision of investing in the “unlisted space” and the company prides itself on partnering with entrepreneurs and management teams based on long-term potential, rather than short-term trading opportunities.

Fledge has built an investment portfolio of more than R3 billion – including partnerships with King Price, Atterbury Property

Investment, Oasis Water, Betterbond, Genric Insurance, Protea Capital Management, DisChem, We Buy Cars and USN sports nutrition – and holds a substantial cash war chest for future transactions.

Fledge Capital is now sold on Luxury Time’s 20-year track record and growth potential and has acquired a direct shareholding in the premium timepiece reseller. The investment will enable Luxury Time to expand its inventory and further develop its online presence, while enhancing its customer service capabilities – a timely investment indeed.

“Luxury Time is a remarkable business boasting innovation, high growth potential and a proven business model. With its attractive markets and data-driven strategies, it’s poised for sustainable, profitable growth.

In our collaboration with Adriaan, we’re eager to unlock the full potential of Luxury Time,” say Van der Watt and Fleischhauer.

Fledge Capital is now sold on Luxury Time’s 20-year track record and growth potential and has acquired a direct shareholding in the premium timepiece reseller. The investment will enable Luxury Time to expand its inventory and further develop its online presence, while enhancing its customer service capabilities.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

19

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S E E N ARO U N D

Fossil Group unveils store re-opening at the Canal Walk Shopping Centre The Fossil Group SA announced the grand re-opening of its store on 20 December 2023 in the Canal Walk Shopping Centre, nestled near the vibrant activations section of the mall. The store features a diverse selection of vintage-inspired watches, crafted leather goods and classic jewellery pieces.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

21

Monthly educational insert FEATURE ARTICLE

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

Fire Obsidian’s Beguiling Spectrum Robert Weldon and Nathan Renfro | GIA, Carlsbad

SPONSORED BY

ISSUE ISSUE 12 12

Tom Dodge (figure 1) has come to be associated with the natural glass known as “fire obsidian.” Since 2014 he has championed its vibrant beauty. He has also mined for it, for weeks at a time, at a private property owned by Emory Coons in the desolate Glass Buttes region of central Oregon in the United States (figure 2). This volcanic terrain is easier to mine in late spring and summer. Dodge has spent years learning how to best fashion the material, first forming and then delicately polishing the glass at his lapidary workshop in Phoenix, Arizona.

Although it is challenging to visualize where the colors may lie in the rough, he has developed an affinity for locating iridescence in the raw material (figure 3). Interviewed at his lapidary studio in Phoenix in 2022, Dodge noted that even among his carefully selected chunks of glass, there are countless samples that simply do not show the effect, even after lapidary work. Others contain reflective layers that are not flat—when fashioned, they appear to billow and ripple like a wind-blown flag.

Fire Obsidian “Obsidian, a natural volcanic glass, is not particularly rare,” Dodge said, demonstrating how to shine a light on samples of his most vibrant cabochons. “The material is widespread across the world. Most of it comes from the Western United States, but [it can be found] anywhere there are volcanic terrains.

In North America, Mexico, and South America, there is an abundance.”

Fire obsidian, so named for its vivid spectrum of colors, is rare and so far has been found in only one site within the Glass Buttes region of central Oregon. A rhyolitic dome field, Glass Buttes has vast quantities of obsidian in various patterns and varieties. But only a tiny percentage of it is suitable for fire obsidian.

Dodge differentiates fire obsidian from so-called rainbow (or sheen) obsidian, which exhibits broad, mostly even bands of pastel colors. Much of that material comes from the Mexican state of Jalisco and from northern California (C. Ma et al., “Microanalytical study of the optical properties of rainbow and sheen obsidian,” Canadian Mineralogist, Vol. 39, 2001, pp. 57– 71). Obsidian typically appears black or brown and is generally translucent in smaller pieces. Impurities in the glass such as

Figure 1. Tom Dodge was interviewed in February 2022 by GIA at his lapidary studio in Phoenix. Photo by Pedro Padua.

N

WASHINGTON

I F I C

O C E A

N

Portland

Bend

PAC

Due to these nuances, which change from sample to sample, he takes time to carefully trim, fashion, and polish the pieces.

He uses diamond abrasive cabochon-cutting equipment and optical-grade cerium oxide polishing powder to reveal vivid spectrums of undulating color and depth. While the exterior shapes he produces are large oval cabochons or tablets, the patterns and colors experienced in any piece, with proper lighting and orientation, are never replicated.

IDAHO

OREGON Glass Buttes

0 0

30 km 30 mi

CALIFORNIA

NEVADA

Figure 2. The Glass Buttes region of the U.S. state of Oregon.

magnetite (an iron oxide) or manganese give the material its natural bodycolor. Beyond the bodycolor, though, it is the sudden flashes of vivid iridescent colors that give fire obsidian its distinctive appeal.

“This is caused by a thin-film interference, when one type of the obsidian is in contact with another type of obsidian, such as an iron-rich obsidian. This contact zone interacts with light as light reflects from the surface, enters the material, and is inbent due to the optical characteristics of glass—its angle of refraction,” said Dodge. “This phenomenon resembles the color effect you see in soap bubbles, oil on water, or windshield wiper fluid in contact with the windshield... So when those two reflected portions of light come back to your eye, you’ll see red, you’ll see green. And if you move the stone or change the angle of the light, some areas of that stone will

AN INTRODUCTION ISSUE TO 12 GEMSTONES

Figure 3. Dodge describes taking a chip off of the rough. This provides a “window” into the stone so he can spot flow bands in the glass. The flow bands give rise to the phenomenal colors, and provide guidance in his lapidary work. Photo by Pedro Padua.

reveal or change the perceived colors. There must be two overlying layers that have a different refractive index, which produces this remarkable iridescence.”

Dodge also noted that the flow bands of obsidian that exhibit color are very thin—between 300 and 700 nm (C. Ma et al., “The origin of color in ‘fire’ obsidian,” Canadian Mineralogist, Vol. 45, 2007, pp. 551–557)—which means that stones must not be polished to such an extent that the color spectrum is removed. When cut properly, often paralleling the flow structure in the glass, the optical effect is both sudden and stunning. Additionally, the flow structures give rise to unusual patterns that can resemble blades of grass, sections of ribbon, branches, or sharp blades.

“They are just intrinsically beautiful. The more you look at them, the more they have to offer—the more you will see. I still spend time with some stones that I cut five years ago, and I see things that I didn’t see before.”

Gemology of Fire Obsidian The gemological properties of fire obsidian from Glass Buttes, Oregon, are quite consistent with those of nonphenomenal obsidian. The refractive index measured on one sample was 1.469, with a hydrostatic specific gravity of 2.36. The material was inert to both long- and short-wave UV. Microscopic examination of the material revealed distinct, paper-thin dark layers as the source of the vibrant iridescence. These layers are composed primarily of nano-size crystals of magnetite, which result in thin-film interference colors (C. Ma et al., 2007).

When illuminated properly with diffuse reflected light, a history of the once molten glass is revealed in the vibrant patterns showing flow structures that have obviously been stretched, sheared, and compressed in ways that only a molten material can be. These structures are preserved in the solidified glass, an amorphous material, and revealed only through human intervention with a keen eye and some basic lapidary equipment.

The photo gallery on the following pages shows images of fire obsidian fashioned by Dodge. Because of the directionality and highly reflective character of glass, fire obsidian is often photographed immersed in liquid to reduce surface light reflections.

The photomicrography reveals numerous flow structures and vibrant patterns of thin-film interference resulting from layers of nano-size magnetite particles.

The photos are by Robert Weldon, and the accompanying photomicrographs are by Nathan Renfro. All specimens are from the collection of Tom Dodge.

ISSUE 12

Left: 75.58 ct, 47.5 × 38.9 mm. Right: field of view 8.95 mm.

Left: 39.98 ct, 33.3 × 26.7 mm. Right: field of view 8.54 mm.

ISSUE 12

Top: 54.32 ct, 50 × 19 mm.

Bottom: field of view 6.27 mm.

ISSUE 12

Left: 894.00 ct, 113 × 66 mm. Right: field of view 13.43 mm.

Left: 38.44 ct, 39.4 × 27.2 mm. Right: field of view 12.74 mm.

Left: 87.87 ct, 56 × 30 × 7 mm. Right: field of view 3.13 mm.

ISSUE 12

Top: 96.36 ct, 58.2 × 33.3 mm.

Bottom: field of view 4.36 mm.

ISSUE 12

Left: 126.35 ct, 65.8 × 37.3 mm. Right: field of view 11.06 mm.

Left: 36.12 ct, 31.8 × 22.8 mm. Right: field of view 4.57 mm.

It means that you can benefit by dealing with a member of the Diamond Dealers Club of South Africa and be assured of: • Reliability • Ethical and honest conduct • Accountability in case of grievances • Legal expertise

The members of the Diamond Dealers Club of South Africa Comprises of South Africa’s leading diamond manufacturers, dealers in diamonds and precious stones and jewellers.

WHAT DOES ALL THIS MEAN TO YOU?

• Prestige of its Members due to strict controls and criteria • Confidence (the fifth “C”) Contact Ruth Dlamini for more information Address: Office No. 1, Second Floor, 8 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank, 2196, JHB, South Africa Phone: +27 011-334-1930 Fax: +27 0865165958 Website: www.diamonds.org.za E-mail: ruthd@diamonds.org.za

WATC H E S

Global watch crime prevention database expands 32

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

WATC H E S

The Watch Register, the global watch crime prevention database that actively searches for lost and stolen watches on the global pre-owned market until they are recovered, has announced a significant expansion of its database.

The database is used by watch dealers, jewellers, pawnbrokers and auction houses to identify stolen watches prior to transactions.

THE WATCH REGISTER, THE GLOBAL WATCH CRIME prevention database, has announced a significant expansion of its database, which will receive all of the UK Metropolitan Police’s stolen watch data. The data amounts to some 260 000 stolen watches and dates back almost three decades to the introduction of the crime reporting system in 1995.

The announcement is the result of a data-sharing scheme implemented between the Metropolitan Police and The Watch Register database. This will subsequently become a national project for all UK police forces, as approved by the National Police Chief’s Council (NPCC).

As an essential step in this partnership, The Watch Register and its parent company, The Art Loss Register, have been awarded Secured by Design accreditation, the official security initiative of the UK Police Service, which has been proven to reduce crime. In order to achieve this status, The Watch Register database has had to adhere to rigorous test standards required by the police, including the achievement of ISO 9001 and 27001 certifications.

“We’re delighted that this new partnership will result in the recovery of more stolen watches for owners and new investigative leads for the police,” it said. The Metropolitan Police data will undergo expert cleansing by The Watch Register’s specialist team.

2023 research revealed that despite many highend watches being valued at thousands of pounds, almost half (49%) of people interviewed who had experienced a loss or theft of a timepiece had failed to note its serial number.

The organisation emphasises that owners must provide the serial number of their stolen watch to the police or else their property cannot be traced.

It also highlights the importance of watch-owners reporting their losses to The Watch Register database directly, as well as to the police, in order to secure the best chance of a successful recovery.

When contacted, the organisation will advise owners of the proof of ownership and proof of loss that are required to pursue their claim and will record this documentation securely on The Watch Register database. The company’s specialist in-house recovery team can represent victims in putting forward their claim and negotiating the return of their watch once found, in the frequent scenario of police being

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

unable to do so. This typically happens when a located watch has passed through many hands since the theft occurred, or is found in a different country from the one in which it was stolen.

The data shared by the police with The Watch Register only includes stolen watches, not missing items, so owners who have suffered an accidental loss which was insured should also report their watch to the register database directly.

“I’ve known about The Art Loss Register for many years, going back to when I was a young, uniformed police officer back in the 1990s,” says Lyn Poole of Secured by Design about the new partnership. “So when I was approached by The Watch Register and found it to be connected, I was thrilled to work with it to achieve Secured by Design membership and bring not only The Watch Register, but also The Art Loss Register on board, so they can now both use the Secured by Design Police Preferred Specification accreditation. I’m looking forward to working with them over the coming years.”

“We’re delighted that our accreditation with Secured by Design and the increased sharing of police data will see us recover even more stolen watches for owners who may have given up hope of ever seeing the return of their property,” says Katya Hills, MD of The Watch Register. “We’d also like to raise awareness among owners of the importance of noting their watch serial numbers and making sure they register these with both ourselves and the police when reporting a loss.”

Owners need their unique serial number and proof of loss, such as a crime reference number, in order to register their timepiece on The Watch Register database. It charges a non-refundable fee per watch to review the registration and a 5% location fee if it is recovered.

The Watch Register actively searches for lost and stolen watches on the global pre-owned market until they are recovered. The database is used by watch dealers, jewellers, pawnbrokers and auction houses to identify stolen watches prior to transactions. From the moment a stolen watch is located, its specialist recovery team steps in to secure the timepiece and remove it from circulation. It finds three or four lost or stolen watches per day for owners, with 50% of watches located within a year of the theft or loss and 35% within six months.

33

D I D YO U K N OW ?

Interesting facts  A physical process called “charge transfer”, as well as the presence of titanium and iron, are what produce the blue colour in sapphires.

 The Oxford English Dictionary records the word “watch” in association with a timepiece from at least as early as 1542.

 Piercing and body modification was most commonly used as a rite of passage among ancient tribes and civilisations, spanning across continents. Ancient Egyptians, Mayans and Aztecs used the practice, as well as many Asian and African tribes. If you know of the famous heads on the Easter Islands, all of them have stretched ears. They were known as “long ears” and were warring with neighbouring tribes without stretched ears known as “short ears”.

 The Antwerp diamond heist, dubbed the "heist of the century", was the largestever diamond heist and one of the biggest robberies in history. The theft was carried out by a five-man team led by Leonardo Notarbartolo.

He had rented space in the diamond district and was arrested after being connected to the crime by DNA evidence from a partially eaten salami sandwich found near the crime scene.

 The advent of Christmas Tree jewellery started around 1940. Red and green rhinestones adorned metal pins. Stanley Hagler was one of the better-known Christmas Tree pin designers beginning in the 1950s.

34

Ancient Egyptians called turquoise “mefkat”, which also means “joy” and “delight”.

 According to the Guiness World Records, the longest pearl necklace measures 2,278,5 m and was created

by Guangdong Ronghui Pearls Culture Co, Ltd (China) in Zhanjiang, Guangdong, China on 17 April 2015.

The necklace contains 316 474 individual pearls.

In 1912, famous mineralogist, Dr George F Herbert Smith, published a ground-breaking book called Gemstones. It was the first book that contained instructions on how to use specialist equipment to look inside gemstones.

 Friendship bracelets were a common sight at Taylor Swift's Eras Tour shows last year, sported by fans and celebrities alike during, and often after, the concert. The friendship bracelet trend among Swifties is inspired by lyrics from a song on Swift's 2022 album Midnights.

D I D YO U K N OW ?

 The jade burial suits of ancient China were built as armor for the afterlife to prevent mortal decay. Their existence was not confirmed until 1968, when the tomb of Prince Liu Sheng and his wife Princess Dou Wan of the Han Dynasty was discovered. Each of the green suits is composed of over 2 000 plates of jade, with gold used to sew the prince’s and silver for the princess.

 On 6 July 1908, Samuel Barnett, a British jeweller from Peterborough, attended a meeting of the National Association of Goldsmiths.In the meeting, he stood up and proposed the idea of offering lessons in gemmology, in order to support the jewellery industry of the time. As a result, an official committee for gemmological education was created. This marked the start of what is today known as the study of gemmology. As a result, Gem-A, the gemmological association of Britain, was born. Later in 1931 the Gemological Institute of America, known as the GIA, was founded.

 The traditional puzzle ring is made of two to 12 interconnected bands. The meaning behind these types of rings is the bond between two people: even if the rings can be taken apart, they become one again. They are often called “Turkish wedding rings” or “harem rings” and according to legend, the ring prevented married people from committing adultery, since once this wedding band is removed, it is difficult to put back.

 Gold is classified as a noble metal because it does not react with most elements.

Jewellery is one of the oldest types of archaeological artefact – with 100 000-yearold beads made from Nassarius shells thought to be the oldest known jewellery.

 Scientists discovered that diamonds consist of pure carbon in 1797. This started the race to create the first synthetic diamond.

Throughout the 19th century, many attempted to recreate in a lab setting the conditions necessary for diamond formation. The first proven synthetic diamonds were made by GE in 1954, under a project codenamed “Project Superpressure.” Today, most labgrown diamonds are made through a process called chemical vapour deposition. In this method, carbon gas heats a diamond seed in a chamber, causing the carbon to stick to the seed and grow into a larger diamond.

Image courtesy the Portable Antiquities Scheme/ The Trustees of the British Museum

 The Ritz-Carlton Tokyo’s Diamonds Are Forever Martini holds the title as the most expensive cocktail at 2 000 000 yen (nearly US$19 000 USD). The decadent drink is made with chilled Absolut Elyx vodka, a hint of fresh lime juice, stirred or shaken, and served with a sparkling with a 1ct diamond at the bottom of the glass.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

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SA’s first and only, dedicated consumer-retail magazine Online 3. SA JEWELLERY NEWS ‘CONNECT’ BI-ANNUAL DIRECTORY THE industry’s quick reference and smart go-to guide connecting the South African diamond and jewellery industries.

Bi-annually Print and online

4. JEWELLERY BIZ NEWS (JBN) Distributed electronically, JBN features the latest developments in the jewellery and associated sectors – both locally and internationally.

Weekly E-newsletter

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K I M B E R L E Y PRO C E S S S TAT I S T I C S

Revealing the dark side of the moon When the structure and mechanisms governing the operation of the Kimberley Process (KP) Certification Scheme were being formulated in 2001 and 2002, ahead of the system’s launch in January 2003, its architects addressed what in many respects was the dark side of the moon – the non-existence of reliable and verifiable data relating to the production and trade of rough diamonds.

AT THE TIME, THE TOTAL VOLUMES AND value of rough diamonds mined and sold were essentially conjecture, since there was no sanctioned body authorised to collect and collate data from the various producing

diamonds were considered a strategic mineral, and production data was a state secret.

Yet the KPCS could not credibly operate without each legitimately produced diamond being properly accounted for, thus the need

or anomalies which could indicate that conflict diamonds are entering the legitimate trade”.

Recognising that commercially sensitive information should be protected, Annexe 3 nonetheless proposed that participants

countries around the world.

For years, the overwhelming majority of goods were distributed by a single company, De Beers – upwards of 90%, it was believed.

This, it could be surmised, would make the task of reporting provenance more straightforward. However, De Beers – as a matter of policy – aggregated its supply and did not report the source of individual stones. In any case, in the absence of corroborating data, even the exact proportion of its dominant position in the market was impossible to verify.

So was the actual proportion of the total taken up of conflict diamonds in the rough supply. In the late 1990s and early 2000s they were estimated to be equal in value to about 4% of production, but that was an assessment – and it was often disputed.

In fact, not only were verified production figures not readily available, but in the case of the erstwhile Soviet Union, a major producer of rough (albeit under the radar for a long while),

for reliable statistics was understood from the outset to be of critical importance.

provide quarterly aggregate statistics on rough diamond exports and imports, as well as the numbers of certificates validated for export, and also of imported shipments accompanied

by KP certificates. To do so, they needed to maintain and publish statistics on exports and imports, by origin and provenance wherever possible, by carat weight and value, and under the relevant Harmonised Commodity Description and Coding System (HS) of the World Customs Organisation (WCO).

Annexe 3 also required that producing countries which are members of the KP maintain and publish statistics on rough diamond production by carat weight and by value on a semi-annual basis. It added that, in the event of a participant being unable to publish these statistics, it should notify the KP Chairperson immediately.

The approval of the KP Core Document meant that all participants agreed to make available the required production and trade data, as a condition of their membership. This

38

Reliable and comparable data So it was that when the KP Core Document was approved in 2002 to serve as the blueprint of the soon-to-be-launched certification scheme, statistics were expressly dealt with in Section 5 of the document, which related to co-operation and transparency among KP members. Its second clause expressly stated that each participant government should compile and make available to all other participants, through the KP Chairperson, “statistical data”.

Exactly what that term entailed was elaborated upon in the same document in Annexe 3, which stated in its preamble that “reliable and comparable data on the production and the international trade in rough diamonds are an essential tool for the effective implementation of the Certification Scheme and particularly for identifying any irregularities

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

K I M B E R L E Y PRO C E S S S TAT I S T I C S

* End-of-year data for 2022, released on the KP Statistics website by the KP Working Group of Statistics.

meant, for example, that the government of the Russian Federation, which had replaced that of the Soviet Union, was required to declassify rough diamond production totals as part of the legislative package it passed in the run-up to the launch of the KP Certification Scheme in January 2003.

The Working Group of Statistics At the first KP plenary meeting to take place after the certification scheme became operational, in Johannesburg in April 2003,

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

an administrative decision describing terms of reference for a Working Group of Statistics (WGS) was adopted.

The first WGS Chairperson was Rob Dunn of Canada, who was the representative of an official government agency, Natural Resources of Canada.

The new body was charged with overseeing the collection and compilation of reliable and comparable statistics on the production and international trade in rough diamonds, in line with the principles outlined

in Annexe 3 of the Core Document.

It was also tasked with developing recommendations for the consistent use of common classification systems, particularly the HS commodity classification codes relating to diamonds.

The new working group was given the task of creating and maintaining a website, which would allow for the direct capture of data submissions and also for the public release of the data. It is today located at https:// kimberleyprocessstatistics.org and, in many

39

K I M B E R L E Y PRO C E S S S TAT I S T I C S

respects, has become the world’s most reliable source of rough diamond production and trading statistics.

To enable the collection and analysis of data, standard means of reporting were required. At the 2004 plenary, which met in Gatineau, Quebec, Canada, the new working group was tasked with undertaking a study of national methodologies in order to pinpoint elements that place constraints on the orderly production of statistics. As a result, the KP plenary eventually adopted an administrative decision which insisted that participants use KP Certificate-based figures when submitting trade data. This, it was suggested, would improve the comparability of results provided by participants.

The KP’s most complex task In many respects, the collection and collation of data from all the KP participant countries was the most complex project undertaken by a single KP body, for in most other respects the KP was able to shift administrative tasks to the national authorities in member countries.

The KP Secretariat, which migrated from year to year each time a new KP Chairperson assumed office, lacked the infrastructure and institutional memory to manage the job.

Then, at the 2008 KP plenary meeting in New Delhi, India, the USA government was chosen to chair the KP Working Group of Statistics. The job was assigned to the Economic Indicator Division of the US Census Bureau, which is part of the US Department of Commerce.

With the considerable resources at its disposal, the US Census Bureau was already the gatekeeper of diamond data for the USA. Its Economic Indicator Division had been charged with collecting, compiling and publishing import and export trade statistics and KP Certificate-based statistics by the Clean Diamond Trade Act for the USA’s implementation of the KP Certification Scheme. It had been signed into law

by President George W Bush on 25 April 2003, less than three months after the system’s launch.

The US Census Bureau was appointed Chair of the KP Working Group on Statistics on behalf of the USA. It has held that job from 1 January 2009 to the present.

Modus operandi of the WGS In its capacity as WGS Chair, the US Census Bureau led the working group’s efforts to improve the submission, analysis and reporting

40

* The homepage of the Kimberley Process statistics website.

The KP plenary meeting in Gaborone, Botswana, approved the candidacy of that country as the site of the prospective KP Permanent Secretariat. It is projected to begin operating this year. of statistical data. Its key tool is the statistics website, which was originally constructed by the American team.

The WGS Chair developed the methodologies used to prepare, review and analyse the KP statistical data. It was supported by the US Geological Survey, which conducts reviews of statistical submissions from KP participants as part of its technical assistance work.

The working group has also provided statistical support to the Central African Republic Monitoring Team, which was established by the KP in accordance with the administrative decision on the resumption of exports of rough diamonds.

The modus operandi of the WGS helps ensure that statistical inaccuracies or nonreporting are not brushed aside. Each year at the KP plenary meetings, the WGS reports on shortcomings by participant countries and these are published in the final communiqué

reported by KP participant countries.

Each certificate issued by a KP authority in an exporting country should be checked and accounted for by the KP authority in the importing country. If the numbers do not tally, then an anomaly is indicated. To improve the process, the WGS Chair developed and administered a survey of KP participants’ practices in order to produce a best practice document for improved reconciliation between trading partners.

which is usually issued at the end of the gathering. Habitual non-reporting is grounds for suspension or expulsion from the KP. The WGS Chair also worked to develop a process to detect statistical anomalies, which may indicate inaccuracies in the data being

will assume the management of KP statistics, including the dedicated website.

This will be a stern test of its proficiency, taking over from a body which for the past 14 years has enjoyed the considerable support of the USA’s government.

A stern test for the KP Permanent Secretariat On 5 November 2022, the KP plenary meeting in Gaborone, Botswana, approved the candidacy of that country as the site of the prospective KP Permanent Secretariat. It is projected to begin operating this year.

Three years after its launch, when it is planned that the new KP Secretariat will have a staff of four employees, including its Secretary-General, it is hoped that the body

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

The Jewellery Council of South Africa is a voluntary, Non Profit Company that represents the interests of Jewellery Manufacturers, Retailers, Refiners, Wholesalers and Service Members.

For further information on membership benefits visit:

www.jewellery.org.za

Become a Member Today!

Inquiries: Dante Bertani on danteb@jewellery.org.za

Tel: (011) 484 5528 • E-mail: admin@jewellery.org.za

B U S I N E S S M A N AG E M E N T

Incorporating technology critical for business success in 2024

In today’s rapidly changing business environment, the significance of employee productivity and satisfaction cannot be overstated. They are critical elements that drive the success of any business. Warren Bonheim, MD of Zinia, a managed services provider, shares his top seven insights on how technology makes workplaces more productive in 2024.

THE LANDSCAPE OF THE WORKPLACE HAS undergone a dramatic transformation due to technological advancements. The advent of high-speed Internet, cloud computing and advanced software solutions has empowered employees to work more efficiently and effectively.

Bonheim suggests the following to make your business more productive this year: • Revolutionising communication and collaboration Modern technological tools have transformed the way communication and

42

collaboration occur in the workplace.

Platforms such as instant messaging, video-conferencing and collaborative tools have simplified team interactions, making distance a non-issue. This development is especially crucial in the era of remote working, when effective communication and team unity are paramount.

• Automation – a gateway to enhanced productivity and satisfaction A standout benefit of technology in the workplace is automation. By taking over monotonous tasks, automation tools free

employees to focus on more intricate and creative aspects of their work. This shift leads to increased productivity and job satisfaction, as employees find more value and meaning in their tasks.

• Data-driven insights for better management The ability to gather and analyse extensive data sets is a significant advantage offered by technology. This data is invaluable for making informed decisions regarding various business aspects, including employee management. Understanding employee behaviours and preferences enables companies to devise strategies that enhance both productivity and satisfaction.

• IT managed services – ensuring efficiency and continuity The role of IT managed services is crucial in upholding and enhancing a company's technological backbone.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

B U S I N E S S M A N AG E M E N T

Incorporating technology in the workplace is no longer optional, but a critical necessity for business success in 2024.

These services ensure that all tech aspects, including software and hardware, are current, secure and fully operational.

Outsourcing IT management helps reduce technical issue-related downtimes, thus offering employees a more efficient and uninterrupted work environment.

• Cyber-security safeguards employee well-being As dependence on technology grows, so does the importance of cyber-security.

Ensuring the safety of a company’s data and the personal information of employees is vital. Adequate cybersecurity measures are essential in maintaining employee trust and confidence.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

• Fostering growth through technologyenabled training Technology also plays a pivotal role in employee training and development.

Through e-learning platforms and online training modules, employees can conveniently enhance their skills.

Continuous learning opportunities contribute significantly to employee satisfaction and productivity.

• The future – artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning shaping the workplace Looking forward, technologies like AI and machine learning are poised to further revolutionise the workplace. These technologies offer predictive insights, automate complex tasks and provide in-depth analysis that might elude human observation, paving the way for greater productivity and operational efficiency.

In conclusion, incorporating technology

in the workplace is no longer optional, but a critical necessity for business success in 2024. Companies that effectively utilise these technological advancements will witness marked improvements in employee productivity and satisfaction. By embracing these innovations, businesses are set to foster a more dynamic, efficient and rewarding work environment for their staff.

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JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

E-mail: barend@autraders.co.za; jacqui@autraders.co.za Website: www.autraders.co.za AUGENTA JEWELLERS Tel: 021 883 8288 E-mail: dylan@augenta.com

ADELE’S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 595 3868/083 227 6550 E-mail: adele@amj.co.za ADJANI SCHOEMAN T/A ADJANI DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 083 460 7334 E-mail: info@adjani.co.za Website: www.adjani.co.za AFRICAN TRADE BEADS JEWELLERY COLLECTION Tel no: 082 905 1736 / 011 726 7643 E-mail: tamiko@zazenconsulting.com Website: https://www.atbjc.com/about-us/ AFROGEM Tel no: 021 424 0848 E-mail: info@afrogem.co.za AKAPO JEWELS Tel no: 011 038 3130 E-mail: wumba@akapo.co.za; labi@akapo.co.za Website: www.akapojewels.co.za ALBO VAN DYK MANUFACTURING Tel no: 044 873 0567 E-mail: albo@telkomsa.net Website: http://www.albovandyk.com/ ALL BLING CREATIONS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 079 744 0971 E-mail: allblingcreations00@gmail.com; mmeshi.nkadimeng@gmail.com ALLOY JEWELLERY GALLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 073 92 45254 E-mail: edna@alloygallery.co.za Website: www.alloygallery.co.za ALTIN JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 998 0141 E-mail: info@altin.co.za Website: www.altin.co.za AMBER & FORGE (PTY) LTD T/A SCHERMANS Tel: 072 928 0385 E-mail: info@schermans.co.za

AURUM DESIGN Tel no: 021 423 6590 E-mail: aurum@worldonline.co.za; adela@aurumdesign.co.za Website: www.aurumdesign.co.za AURUM MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 475 7891 E-mail: info@aurummanufacturing.co.za; oliver@aurummanufacturing.co.za; karina@aurummanufacturing.co.za AUTHOR BY KATHLYN ALLAN Tel no: 084 247 0358 E-mail: mail@worldofauthor.com AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS RIVERSIDE LIFESTYLE CENTRE Tel: 013 757 0827 E-mail: ron@aztecjewellers.com; kyle@aztecjewellers.com Website: www.aztecjewellers.com AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS VALLEY HYPER Tel: 013 757 0827 E-mail: Ron@aztecjewellers.com Website: www.aztecjewellers.com

AU TRADERS AND REFINERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 334 7607/8

CARESS JEWELLERS UITENHAGE CC Tel no: 041 992 4421 E-mail: eben-caress@mweb.co.za

CHARLES NORMAN DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 557 3252 E-mail: rishan@charlesnormandiamonds.com

BEN & CO DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 072 056 2156 E-mail: bheki@ben-codesigns.com; info@ben-codesigns.com Website: www.ben-codesigns.com

CHARLENE NEL T/A BELLA COSA Tel no: 021 975 5097 E-mail: charlene@bellacosa.co.za

BO KOOK HANDMADE JEWELLERY Tel: 079 560 5064 E-mail: info@bokook.co.za

ASSIQUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 706 3629 E-mail: hashiem@telkomsa.net

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS PE/GQEBERHA Tel no: 041 365 1890 E-mail: renee@capepreciousmetals.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

BEAUTIFUL SELECTION (PTY) LTD Tel no: 072 658 0166 E-mail: admin@beautifulselection.co.za

ANASTASIA JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 507 5561 E-mail: bazil.heeralall@gmail.com Website: www.anastasiajewellers.co.za

ASHOK JEWELLERS DESIGNERS & MANUFACTURERS Tel: 031 566 5046 E-mail: info@ashokjewellers.co.za; 5665046@gmail.com

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – GERMISTON Tel no: 011 334 6263 E-mail: shannon@cpmjhb.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CHARL DE BEER Tel no: 012 440 7693 E-mail: leatherw@mweb.co.za; charldebeer@hotmail.com

BIJOU EXQUISITE JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 450 4320 E-mail: marnic@bijoujewellery.international Website: https://www.bijoujewellery.international/

ANTONICORNELLIS JEWELLERY ENTERPRISE Tel no: 074 758 1014 E-mail: antonicornellius.nhlapo@gmail.com

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – DURBAN Tel no: 031 303 5402 E-mail: malcolm@cpmdbn.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

BEAUDELL DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 885 8303 E-mail: esther@beaudell.co.za Website: www.beaudell.co.za

ANACZYNSKI JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 934 5682 E-mail: anaczynski@gmail.com Website: www.anaczynski.co.za

ANNELLE MURRAY GOUDSMID Tel no: 082 956 7747 E-mail: annellemurray@exclusivemail.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 551 2066 E-mail: sharon@cpmct.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CENTRAL UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY FREE STATE – WELKOM Tel no: 051 507 4044 E-mail: eholmes@cut.ac.za; nmphore@cut.ac.za Website: www.cut.ac.za

AMBIGO JEWELLERS Tel: 062 282 6924 E-mail: ntobekobasil@gmail.com

ANNA ROSHOLT JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 061 080 6481 Email: anna@annarosholt.com

CAPE PENINSULA UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 021 460 3632 E-mail: konstandakellisv@cput.ac.za; camerondowl@cput.ac.za Website: www.cput.ac.za

BEADZ BY FLEX Tel no: 083 967 3264 E-mail: info@beadzbyflex.co.za Website: www.beadzbyflex.co.za

BERNARD’S JEWELLERY DESIGN & MANUFACTURE Tel no: 032 586 0889 E-mail: bernard@bernardsjewellery.co.za Website: https://watchesforsale.co.za/

ANDREAS SALVER MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 706 6828 E-mail: andreas@andreassalver.com Website: www.andreassalver.com

CAPE DIAMONDS Tel no: 021 421 5364 E-mail: joelgraham@capediamonds.co.za Website: www.capediamonds.co.za

BRAND ATHENA A Tel: 072 272 3089 E-mail: info@brandathenaa.co.za BRETTLAND POULSEN DESIGNER GOLDSMITH Tel no: 031 562 8009 E-mail: bretland@iafrica.com Website: www.brettlands.co.za BRIAN BOSMAN GOLDSMITH STUDIO Tel no: 011 616 5328 E-mail: divagoldsmith@yahoo.com BRONSKI JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 852 7891 E-mail: seanscrase@hotmail.com BROWNS THE DIAMOND STORE – WORKSHOP Tel no: 011 438 7920 E-mail: albert@brownsjewellers.com Website: www.brownsjewellers.com BULLION STAR (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 202 5021 E-mail: bullionstr@gmail.com CADTOCRAFT (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 781 0303 E-mail: johanwessels12@gmail.com

CHATEAU D’OR CC Tel no: 011 728 3741/3723 E-mail: denlincoln@mweb.co.za Website: www.chateaudorjewellers.com CORNERSTONE MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 599 5919 E-mail: cornerstonelof@gmail.com CREATIVE DESIGN MANUFACTURERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 031 563 3987 E-mail: goldlink@iafrica.com D FABRIK (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 327 7926 E-mail: deon.denysschen@gmail.com DABERON MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 334 8841 E-mail: daberon1@gmail.com DALEEN BRUWER JEWELLERY DESIGN & GOLDSMITH Tel no: 023 342 7808 E-mail: db@xsinet.co.za DANIEL JACOBS JEWELLERY DESIGN CC Tel no: 021 880 1026 E-mail: djjd@mweb.co.za DAVID BOLDING GOLDSMITH Tel no: 021 418 1049/1612 E-mail: david@dbgold.co.za; marele@dbgold.co.za DC JEWELLERS Tel no: 044 691 3692 E-mail: dcjewel@mweb.co.za DEGLON JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 021 851 3182 E-mail: waynedeglon@telkomsa.net Website: www.waynedeglondesign.withtank.com DEON SMITH JEWELLERY Tel: 083 454 2161 E-mail: deonsmithjewellery@gmail.com; drdwsmith63@gmail.com; deon@deonsmithjewellery.com

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

DESIGNER GOLD BUSINESS TRUST Tel no: 043 726 2291 E-mail: info@designergold.co.za Website: www.designergold-el.co.za

FERROS JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 363 1881 E-mail: alex@ferrosjewellers.com Website: www.ferrosjewellers.com

IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT Tel no: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za Website: www.imfundiso.com

DIA-KIM DIAMONDS T/A CHRISTOPHER REID Tel no: 021 418 4484 E-mail: nick@christopherreid.co.za Website: www.christopherreid.co.za

FINEGOLD LABORATORY SERVICES Tel no: 021 511 6237 E-mail: admin@finegold.co.za Website: www.finegold.co.za

IMPILO COLLECTION Tel no: 010 0210441 E-mail: ayeung@impilocollection.co.za Website: www.facebook.com/impilocollection

FOREVER JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS Tel no: 031 564 9006 E-mail: fj@3i.co.za

INGE SCHOLTZ JEWELLERYDESIGNER & MANUFACTURER Tel no: 073 271 3789 E-mail: admin@csvaluers.co.za

DIAMANTE ANTWERP Tel: 072 830 5656 E-mail: info@diamanteantwerp.com DIAMONDS4EVER Tel no: 082 786 7677 E-mail: info@diamonds4ever.co.za Website: www.diamonds4ever.co.za

FRANKLI WILD Tel no: 011 483 2620 E-mail: kgf@frankliwild.com Website: www.frankliwild.com

DIDIDESIGN Tel no: 011 784 0369 E-mail: didi@dididesign.co.za Website: www.dididesign.co.za

G HARRIS DESIGN STUDIOS CC Tel no: 021 555 1437 E-mail: harrisjewellers@telkomsa.net; gharris@telkomsa.net Website: www.harrisjewellers.net

DLR JEWELLERS Tel: 057 101 0359 E-mail: carol@dlracc.co.za

GATTOO JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 011 852 2046 E-mail: gattoosdesign@gmail.com

DR ESME SPICER Tel no: 073 239 9983 E-mail: esme.spicer@gmail.com

GAUTA REFINERIES (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 753 3304 E-mail: rudi@gautarefinery.com Website: https://www.gautarefinery.com/

DURBAN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 031 373 6673/6 E-mail: chrisdb@dut.ac.za; samanthav@dut.ac.za Website: www.dut.ac.za ECO CHIC JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 553 0332 E-mail: e.m.duplooy@gmail.com EDEL DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 072 636 0213 E-mail: edeldesignerjewellery@gmail.com EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT Tel no: 011 825 5822 E-mail: colin@ejewellery.org.za Website: www.ejewellery.org.za ELEMENTAL STUDIO Tel no: 084 507 7777 E-mail: lezamcleod@icloud.com Website: www.elementalstudio.co.za EMBER MANUFACTURING & DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 557 5190 E-mail: info@ember.co.za Website: www.ember.co.za ENZA MANAGEMENT SERVICES Tel no: 031 824 9427 E-mail: khulile@imarajewellery.com EON HOON JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 083 578 7447 E-mail: eon@eonhoon.com Website: www.eonhoon.com ERICA STRAUSS DESIGNER JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 021 851 8120 E-mail: artwear@telkomsa.net ETERNITY ENTERPRISE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 018 290 5722/3 E-mail: info@eternityenterprise.com; daleen@eternityenterprise.com Website: www.eternityenterprise.com EVERTRADE 142 (PTY) LTD T/A D’OURO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 3402 E-mail: dourojhb@vodamail.co.za; a.veloso@dourojewellers.co.za Website: www.dourojewellers.co.za FACET JEWELLERY Tel no: 073 397 8820 E-mail: catherine@facetjewellery.co.za FARIED JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 021 671 5529 E-mail: insaaf.achmat@gmail.com; fachmat@gmail.com FEMKE KLEISEN DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 787 6120 E-mail: femkekleisen@webafrica.org.za Website: www.femkekleisen.co.za

GEM AFRIQUE Tel no: 062 050 6479 E-mail: soni2.goldsmith@gmail.com GERHARD MOOLMAN FINE JEWELLERY Tel: 021 914 0838 E-mail: gerhard@gmfinejewellery.co.za GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY Tel no: 082 337 6428 E-mail: robertb@globaljewelleryacademy.co.za Website: www.globaljewelleryacademy.co.za GOLD AND I (PTY) LTD Tel no: 084 360 6762 E-mail: info@goldandi.co.za Website: www.goldandi.co.za GOLDFASHION JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 021 931 1319 E-mail: mhendricks@wsnet.co.za; goldfashion@telkomsa.net GOUDSMID TEHILA VAN ENGELENHOVEN Tel no: 082 674 4410 E-mail: tehila@absamail.co.za GRYPHON MOSS Tel: 082 049 2488 E-mail: kate@gryphonmoss.co.za HAUPT JUWELEN (PTY) LTD Tel: 072 587 0055 E-mail: info@hauptjuwelen.co.za HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS Tel no: 041 581 1942 E-mail: design@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za Website: www.havilah.co.za HEATHER JANE SMITH CERAMICS & PORCELAIN Tel no: 064 915 4282 E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com HELEN MICHALETOS Tel: 082 342 1577 E-mail: helen.michaletos@gmail.com HESTI PRINSLOO T/A FETTER-AND-THREE Tel: 082 855 9088 E-mail: hesti@fetter-and-three.co.za

ISA B JEWELLERY DESIGNS E-mail: bothmaisabel09@gmail.com ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC Tel no: 011 334 5919 E-mail: isabella@isabella-refiners.co.za Website: www.isabella-refiners.co.za J HIND JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 306 1330 E-mail: jhindrajesh@gmail.com Website: https://www.jhindjewellers.co.za/ JAGGATH JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 307 7790 E-mail: navinjagath372@gmail.com JANINE BINNEMAN JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel no: 021 715 6178 E-mail: info@janinebinneman.com Website: https://janinebinneman.com/ JEWEL CRAFT – BRANDHOF Tel no: 051 444 3449 E-mail: rean.p@mweb.co.za Website: www.jewelcraft.co.za JEWELLERY CONNECTION Tel no: 011 728 6800 E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY Tel no: 083 581 1513 E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com Website: www.jewelleryconsultancy.co.za JOHANNA VAN ZYL Tel no: 082 778 5846 E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za Website: www.johannavanzyl.co.za JOHN 3 JEWELLERY Tel no: 076 822 8783 E-mail: john3jewellery@gmail.com JOHN STEDMAN T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN Tel no: 031 572 2902 E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za Website: www.elementaldesign.co.za JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP Tel no: 046 624 3748 E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 662 2861 E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/ JUPITER'S JUNGLE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 061 503 6561 E-mail: admin@jupitersjungle.com Website: www.jupitersjungle.com/www.ginawhite.com JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 067 397 6373 E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/contact/

HOLLY CROSS JEWELLERY Tel: 079 477 2729 E-mail: vhaswayouth@gmail.com

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ICKINGER JEWELLERS Tel no: 015 307 4448 E-mail: jacques@ickinger.co.za Website: www.ickinger.co.za

KARLIEN DESIGNS CC Tel no: 083 659 2607 E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za

iKE YKE Tel: 083 225 0425 E-mail: michael@eqimpact.co.za

KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO Tel no: 033 386 7872 E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za

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KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC Tel: 082 451 9429 E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za

MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES Tel no: 031 702 4422 E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za

KAYRO JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 585 4842 E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 641 2724 E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com

KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN Tel: 083 350 2737 E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com

MARINE GOLD CC Tel no: 021 424 0077 E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za

KHONJE DESIGNS Tel: 012 460 1569 E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com

MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 041 368 4582/3 E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 021 531 9082 E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH Tel no: 083 271 6065 E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/

KINKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 786 1549 E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za

MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS Tel: 0727167632 E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com

KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE Tel: 011 825 5822 E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com

MASELESELE JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za Website: www.imfundiso.com

KRISTEN MALAN CC Tel no: 011 880 1866 E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com

MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 0630 E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/

KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD Tel: 010 001 6284 E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 510 0770 E-mail: cpt@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za

LADY PECULIAR Tel no: 021 886 8868 E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CENTURION Tel no: 012 000 4440 E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za

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METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – DURBAN E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za

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LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 967 1700 E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za

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UNGAR BROTHERS www.ungarbros.co.za k rishage ms. sa @gma il . c om k rishage ms. sa @gma il . c om ungarbros@worldonline.co.za Su ite 106B, 3 Stu rdee Av e , (011) 642-2018 Su ite 106B, 3 Stu rdee Av e , Roseba n k , Joha nn e sbu rg - 2196 +91 722884 435 4 +91 722884 435 4 +27 083275 6106 +27 083275 6106

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Dia mond Man ufacturers, I m p orters & Exp orters

DIAMOND DEALERS CLUB SOUTH AFRICA www.diamonds.org.za joyceb@ diamonds.org.za (011) 334-1930

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KRISHA GEMS krishagems.sa@gmail.com 083 275 6106

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - FEBRUARY 2024

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BOOKINGS OPEN AUTUMN/WINTER EDITION 2024

SPRIN SUMM G ER 2023

A U T U M RN WINTE 2023

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For more information or to book your space, contact: Thuli / 011 883 4627 / thuli@isikhova.co.za

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