SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • Dec 2023/Jan 2024 Holiday issue

SA

jewellerynews DECEMBER 2023/JANUARY 2024 HOLIDAY ISSUE

WE LOOK AT

PlatAfrica winners announced

Time to reflect and look ahead

Luxury timepieces are ticking

2024 international event calendar

“Offering an impressive selection of jewellery designs set in a rainbow of gemstone colours” JPPE is a Cape Town-based family business servicing the jewellery industry since 1966. Our passion for gemstones and jewellery inspires us to create stunning designs for locals and tourists.

From Big Five-inspired jewellery to elegant pieces inspired by Africa to classic jewellery staples, we offer an impressive selection of designs set in a rainbow of colours and a broad selection of loose gemstones.

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At JPPE, we have developed one of South Africa's most expansive ranges of gemstone jewellery. Catering for all tastes, we pride ourselves in developing quality ranges that align with global trends.

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With the innovation of CAD designing and years of expertise from our masterful artisans, we can offer you craftsmanship on par with international standards.

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CO N T E N T S

contents 10. NEWS

• De Beers averts strike at Venetia with five-year wage deal • Revised SANS 29:2023 licence purchased by JCSA for members to utilise • PlatAfrica Pop-Up Store now open • JGTD 2024 announces new show dates and venue • GIA launches innovative Graduate Jeweller Programme in 2024 • Bleu Royal becomes most expensive jewel sold at auction in 2023

16. PLATAFRICA 2023 WINNERS ANNOUNCED The winners of the 24th annual prestigious PlatAfrica jewellery design and manufacturing competition have been announced

20. TIME TO REFLECT AND LOOK AHEAD

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The end of the year is a time to reflect, take stock and plan for the year ahead, says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

CO N T E N T S

22. COVER FEATURE The luxury watch industry in SA is a thriving world of elegance, craftsmanship and appreciation for the art of horology

26. ART JEWELLERY IN SOUTH AFRICA Art jewellery is rooted in experimenting with ideas that can be worn on the body, often made with everyday materials

30. HUSBAND-AND-WIFE TEAM LAUNCHES CARBON FIBRE RING COLLECTION Handcrafting rings from a variety of interesting materials is a passion of husband-and-wife team, Awie and Martie Potgieter

37. DIAMOND REFLECTIONS What eclogitic diamonds reveal about earth’s dynamic processes

45. MAKE A DATE The international industry event calendar for 2024

46. THE OSCARS OF WATCHMAKING GPHG 2023 winners revealed

33. BELLAGIO HOSTS EXCLUSIVE DIAMOND PRIVÉ Showcasing luxury and elegance, Bellagio Jewellers recently held its annual event, the Bellagio Diamond Privé

34. BUSINESS MANAGEMENT With the rise of social media scams, business executives find themselves increasingly targeted by cyber-criminals

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2024. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

7

The The Science Science of of Colored Colored Stone Stone Identification Identification and and Origin.

Origin.

GIA research and reports GIA research and reports are the benchmark of are the benchmark of colored stone analysis. coloredwho stone analysis.

Those buy, sell, or Those who buy, sell, or curate the world’s most curate the gems world’s most important rely on important gems rely on GIA's expertise, precision, GIA's expertise, precision, objectivity, and integrity. objectivity, and integrity.

GIA.edu/ColoredStones GIA.edu/ColoredStones

©2023 Gemological Institu©2023 Gemological Institute of America, Inc. (GIA).

All te of America, (GIA). All trademarks areInc. registered are registered trademarks owned

by GIA. trademarks owned501(c)

by GIA. GIA is a nonprofit GIAorganization. is a nonprofitAll501(c) (3) rights (3) organization. All rights reserved. reserved.

Editor's note Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Director Brand Strategy: Jenny Justus Cell: 083-450-6052 E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za Creative Director: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za

SAYING GOODBYE TO ANOTHER YEAR IS A time when most of us reflect on what was, what is and what is yet to come.

For SAJN, 2023 has been a productive and positive year. We are fortunate that the magazine has continued to grow, as has our presence online. Our team has also expanded and there are big plans afoot for next year, which we are all excited about.

As we reach the end of the year, we are fortunate to do so with our heads held high, our editorial integrity intact and the hope that we shared news, opinion pieces, design showcases and interviews that our readers enjoyed and found valuable. We hope you agree.

For many, the holiday season is the most magical time of the year, when we are able to unwind and enjoy the company of loved ones. For retailers, however,

Operations Director: Thuli Majola

this is their busiest period. The National Retail Federation chief economist predicts a record-breaking 2023 holiday sales season in the USA, despite challenges and opportunities, due to the resilience of consumers and the retail sector. We are hoping for the same here and wish all jewellery retailers an exceptionally prosperous holiday season.

We thank all our loyal readers and advertisers for your support over the past year, which we greatly appreciate. As we transition into 2024, our New Year’s hope is that you will continue to find our reporting on the industry compelling and enjoyable.

Until then, we wish you all a happy, healthy and safe festive season!

Adri Viviers

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales:

ON THE COVER

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 083-450-6052

jewelle rynew s SA

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

DECEM

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Distribution: Ruth Dlamini

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SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa.

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WE LOOK

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ahead ect and look Time to refl calendar ational event 2024 intern

Luxury Time celebrated its 19th anniversary earlier this year. Founded by entrepreneur Adriaan Rootman, the premier watch shop sells high-end, brand-name preowned authentic timepieces and has made a strong name for itself in the luxury timepiece industry. It has a wide selection to choose from, including brands such as Rolex, Omega and Cartier. Luxury Time also offers a variety of services, such as watch repairs and restorations, virtual consultations and free shipping across SA. For more information, contact Luxury Time on tel: 087-821-8899 or (012) 940-1055 or e-mail: info@luxurytime.co.za.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

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NEWS

Revised SANS 29:2023 licence purchased by JCSA for members to utilise The SA Bureau of Standards (SABS), the statutory body that was established in terms of the Standards Act, 1945 (Act No 24 of 1945) and continues to operate in terms of the latest edition of the Standards Act, 2008 (Act No 29 of 2008) as the national institution for the promotion and maintenance of standardisation and quality in connection with commodities and the rendering of services, has published the revised SANS 29:2023 (Ed 4.01).

The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) has purchased the licence and has received permission from SABS for members to utilise it.

The standard/licence stipulates the following: “©SABS. Licensed exclusively to the Jewellery Council of South Africa; Licence ID: 4HP9-QLM9-OISP. Copying and network storage prohibited. You can make one paper copy of the standard. No paper copy may be photocopied or reproduced in any way.”

The JCSA has been advised that the SA Diamonds and Precious Metals Regulator will be policing this to ensure compliance with the SANS 29 standards.

“Should they conduct an inspection of your workshop relating to the ZA mark, you

may provide them with the above licence ID number,” advises Lorna Lloyd, JCSA CEO. “In terms of the ZA mark, please note that all locally produced products of precious metal and silver destined for the local market above 1 g in weight per unit must be stamped with a ‘ZA’ marking for all jewellery which is locally sold.

“The above therefore provides that it’s no longer a requirement to stamp the ZA mark with an ‘oval’ around it,” she adds.

For further information, contact the JCSA on tel: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail: lornal@ jewellery.org.za or elsad@jewellery.org.za.

De Beers averts strike at Venetia with five-year wage deal De Beers has signed an agreement with SA’s National Union of Mineworkers (NUM) that will avoid a threatened strike at the Venetia deposit.

The deal will provide workers at the mine with a wage increase of 7% in 2023, says the mining company. The employees will also receive a 6% hike in each subsequent year until 30 April 2028. Workers will also be able to participate in the Employee Share Ownership Plans.

De Beers reached the agreement with NUM with the aid of the Commission for Conciliation, Mediation and Arbitration following four months of failed talks during which the union set out 10 initial demands. Three of those – related to shifts and overtime – were tabled, while six others were settled. The wage debate was the only outstanding issue, but the breakdown in discussions drove the NUM to plan a strike at the deposit. The agreement affects 1 500 of the mine’s workers.

“We’re pleased that we reached a favourable outcome, following a very tough negotiation process against the backdrop of challenging market conditions that continue to have an adverse impact on our business and the overall diamond industry,” says Moses Madondo, MD of De Beers Managed

Operations, which oversees the company’s mines in SA and Canada. “The agreement provides a measure of certainty to our employees for the next five years as we focus on ramping up the underground mine at Venetia, which is set to extend the life of mine to at least 2046.” – Rapaport

Bleu Royal becomes the most expensive jewel sold at auction in 2023 Christie’s autumn Luxury Week totalled US$139 901 892 and was highlighted by the Bleu Royal, which sold for US$44 009 645, making it the most expensive jewel sold at auction in 2023. The bidding took seven minutes, after which the diamond entered another private collection for the first time after 40 years.

The Magnificent Jewels auction achieved a total of US$77 703 074 and welcomed bidders from 37 countries, selling 93% by

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lot and 98% by value.

Other highlights of the sale included a rectangular modified brilliant-cut, fancy intense pink diamond of 8,77ct selling for US$5 172 42, a Burmese cushion-shaped ruby of 21,88ct selling for US$2 611 280 and a heart brilliant-cut, F colour diamond of 55,75ct selling for US$2 577 580.

Christie’s Watch Department held two live auctions on 6 November: Passion for Time, a highly important private

collection of timepieces, as well as the traditional Rare Watches sale which made a combined total of US$62 041 596, with 94% of lots sold across both sales. Clients came from across the world, with registrants from 51 countries and 21% of all bidders new to Christie’s.

Passion for Time achieved US$42 418 914.

The 113 lots of the collection of Mohammed Zaman were all sold. Rare Watches achieved US$19 625 499, with 90% of lots sold.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

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NEWS

JGTD 2024 announces new show dates and venue Jewellery, Gem & Technology in Dubai (JGTD) is rescheduling its third edition to 12-14 November 2024 as it prepares to move to its new home in Halls 1 and 2 South of the Dubai Exhibition Centre (DEC). The fair was originally scheduled for 6-8 February 2024 at the Dubai World Trade Centre.

Situated in the Expo/District 2020 neighbourhood and community area, the DEC covers 45 000 m² of versatile meeting space and boasts state-of-the-art facilities and amenities. Its proximity to the Dubai Metro Route 2020 station guarantees convenient transportation and easy access to the city’s major attractions, many of which can be reached within an approximately 30-minute drive. The Dubai Marina, the luxurious

waterfront district adjacent to the Palm Jumeirah, is only a 20-minute drive away.

The November show dates also represent a critical time in the B2B sourcing calendar.

The new schedule allows for the swift capture of last-minute orders from trade buyers within a six-hour flying distance from Dubai, ensuring a timely replenishment of their inventory for the holiday season and the coming year, according to show organisers Informa Markets Jewellery and the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG).

“The move to the DEC represents an exciting step forward, further solidifying JGTD’s position as a global meeting point where new products are discovered, inspiring ideas are shared and connections are forged,” says Celine Lau, Director of Jewellery Fairs at Informa Markets. “JGTD’s distinctive positioning will also be magnified as it transitions to its new venue, solidifying its prominent position on the jewellery trade show calendar.”

GIA launches innovative Graduate Jeweller Programme in 2024 The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) will launch its revamped Graduate Jeweller Diploma Programme in 2024. This programme is a significant leap forward in jewellery manufacturing education, blending foundational technical knowledge of bench jewellery with a focus on creative expression and how to apply these skills in the industry.

The meticulously crafted GIA Graduate Jeweller Diploma Programme draws on proven techniques employed in both fine jewellery manufacturing and retail jewellery repair. This comprehensive, project-based course equips students with the skills necessary to thrive in today’s dynamic jewellery market. Many of the projects students create in class will help build an impressive portfolio to showcase their skills and creativity to potential employers and clients as they start their careers.

“Our objective is to instil in students proficiency in safe practices and jewellery manufacturing techniques that exceed industry standards by setting the bar higher,” says GIA Senior Vice-President of Education and Chief Academic Officer Duncan Pay. “Leveraging decades of experience in teaching jewellery manufacturing arts, coupled with the expertise of master goldsmith and award-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

winning jewellery designer Alan Revere, we’ve developed a programme that not only hones classical technical skills, but integrates cutting-edge tools and equipment within our state-of-the-art classrooms.”

This 28-week programme centres on traditional jewellery fabrication, recognised as the cornerstone of all jewellery-making.

Essential skills taught to students are sawing, piercing, measuring, layout, filing, forging, bending, twisting and advanced torch techniques, with an emphasis on soldering, annealing and brazing. The programme also includes significant gemstone-setting training, as well as modules on casting, wax-carving, laser-welding, metallurgy and hand-engraving.

The GIA’s new Graduate Jeweller Diploma Programme stands as a testament to the institute’s commitment to providing worldclass education in the field of jewellerymaking, empowering students to forge their paths in the dynamic and evolving world of jewellery arts.

For further information about the programme and enrolment details, visit: https://www.gia.edu/gem-education/ program-graduate-jeweler.

NEWS

iTraceiT to partner with Cutwise Group iTraceiT, an independent, third-party company

gryse. “Our app is based on secure blockchain

specialising in traceability solutions and the

digital technology without requiring or inscrib-

creator of the world’s first digital diamond

ing any proprietary physical markings on the

passport, has entered into a partnership with

stones. Therefore, when a customer adds the

the Cutwise Group to permit users of iTraceiT

DiLog ID to a diamond registered by iTraceiT’s

to integrate the data of the Cutwise “DiLog”

app, it offers an additional layer of security.

report for the scans of polished diamonds into

The diamond can’t be swapped with any other

their workflow, thus enhancing the traceability

stone since the data provided by iTraciT’s app,

of these diamonds.

the stone’s grading report and the DiLog ID

Developed by the Cutwise Group, “DiLog”

can’t be matched with another diamond.”

is a service module that builds a report with a

“We’re very pleased to be teaming up with

photoreal-rendered image of the polished dia-

iTraceiT and allowing its customers to integrate

mond, using a helium polish scanner to produce

the DiLog ID service into their iTraceiT-driven

unprecedentedly accurate digital reports that

workflow,” says the Lexus Group’s CEO Janak

detail precise measurements of the scanned

Mistry, a co-promoter of Cutwise. “Awareness

stones. The costs of Cutwise “DiLog” basic

and demand for independent and affordable

reports are as low as €0,15 per stone scanned,

traceability applications are rising in the current

putting them within reach of market segments

market. We’re happy to advance this important

which would previously not have considered

service in the diamond supply pipeline.”

using diamond scans in their workflow.

“With Cutwise DiLog, our clients can

Degryse adds that Cutwise is making great strides in developing its Diamond Journey/

choose to add yet another layer of security to

Rough to Polish story based on Lexus-Octonus

each diamond,” says iTraceiT’s CEO Fredrik De-

technologies integrated with Cutwise.

14

PlatAfrica Pop-Up Store now open Annually, Anglo American Platinum, Platinum Guild International India and Metal Concentrators host the PlatAfrica jewellery design and manufacturing competition. Its aim is to celebrate and support the South African platinum industry by giving student, apprentice and professional jewellers the opportunity to work, experiment, innovate and develop their technical expertise with the precious metal. PlatAfrica highlights the strength and beauty of platinum, while revealing the glowing jeweller talent of SA. Every year an original theme is chosen for the competition, producing one-of-a-kind, statement pieces of jewellery. Each year, many of those pieces are melted down in order to re-use the platinum.

The PlatAfrica Pop-Up Store, which is exclusively online, gives the public an opportunity to invest in the precious resource of platinum and in the SA jewellery industry. To view or shop pieces from the PlatAfrica 2023 Emergence collection, visit: https://plat.africa/.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

CAPACITATE, GROW AND SUPPORT The core business of Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project (EJP) is to cater for industry-based training skills programmes and the development of Small, Medium and Micro Enterprises (SMMEs) for commercial sustainability and success.

Transferring technology, access to minerals and providing an enabling and supportive environment to the emerging jewellers.

CURRENT PROGRAMMES OFFERED BY EJP: • Jewellery Manufacturing Training • Workplace Training • Graduate Development Programme • Rand Refinery Silver & Gold Mentorship Programme • Business Incubation For more information, contact us on: E-mail: info@ejewellery.org.za Tel: (011) 825-5822

MORE ABOUT THE RAND REFINERY SILVER & GOLD MENTORSHIP PROGRAMME This one-year enterprise development programme aims to assist start-up jewellery businesses owned by men, women and the youth, providing them with basic technical and business skills that will enable them to run a sustainable business. SMMEs must be able to commit for a full year up until the end of the programme.

Qualifying criteria: • Candidates must be between the ages of 18 and 35 years • Must reside within a 60km radius of Rand Refinery (Germiston) • Have a jewellery background (graduates from higher learning institutions, technical and vocational education and training are encouraged to apply) • Have a registered business or be willing to register a business

WhatsApp: 083 580 3689

• Candidates with a criminal record will not be considered

Through the provision of excellent training and business incubation, EJP will be the incubator of choice in providing an enabling environment for emerging jewellers and creating skilled, sustainable jobs within newly established businesses.

Applications for 2024 open 30 November 2023 and closes 31 January 2024 To apply, e-mail: info@ejewellery.org.za

House 51, Rand Refinery Estate, 1 Refinery Road, Germiston, South Africa tel: 011 825 5822 e-mail: info@ejewellery.org.za instagram: ekurhulenijewelleryproject

J E W E L L E RY D E S I G N

(Below): Khalifah neckpiece by Lungile Xhwantini of The Platinum Incubator (1st place professional category).

PlatAfrica 2023 winners announced

The winners of the 24th annual prestigious PlatAfrica jewellery design and manufacturing competition were announced during a gala awards ceremony held in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg on 27 October.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

J E W E L L E RY D E S I G N

Hosted annually by Anglo American Platinum, Metal Concentrators and Platinum Guild International (PGI) India, the awards contribute to showcasing local jewellery manufacturing and design flair and to building a pipeline of talent in the South African platinum jewellery design and manufacturing industry by providing skills development among local jewellers, artisans and students. The competition supports the local beneficiation of platinum.

Using the 2023 competition theme “#Emergence”, contestants created innovative designs drawing from uncharted territories to create pieces that inspire and resonate with potential customers, while also pointing to the promise of better things to come. This year’s competition also saw the introduction of capsule collections – a condensed version of the designer’s vision that can transcend trends and seasons by functional and commercial appeal, as well as a collaboration with De Beers, which loaned selected diamonds to winners for showcasing their platinum designs.

This year, PlatAfrica featured a total of 192 (65 professional and 127 student/apprentice) entries across SA for the Student/Apprentice and Professional categories.

(Top): Nature’s Awakening ring/armpiece by Esther Boshoff and team of Beaudell Designs (2nd place professional category).

(Above): Mushia poppy neckpiece – pendant by Thapelo Masinigi of Cape Peninsula University of Technology (2nd place student category).

(Left): Unity multi-purpose neckpiece/pendant/ring by Jana Basson of Cape Peninsula University of Technology (1st place student category).

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

17

J E W E L L E RY D E S I G N

PlatAfrica winners receive a cash prize, media exposure and the opportunity to participate in an all-expenses-paid design workshop at PGI India to learn more about the design and manufacturing of platinum jewellery in the world’s fastest-growing market for this product. This international exposure for their innovation and technical expertise is a key attraction for those entering the competition.

Speaking at the awards ceremony, Craig Miller, CEO of Anglo American Platinum, said: “PlatAfrica is a demonstration of our commitment to bringing our purpose to life, exposing the talented and dynamic finalists to access and use platinum metal to expand their creativity and talents for greater design possibilities. I’m proud and impressed by how each of the finalists has amazingly translated the concepts, designs and creativity of this year’s theme of ‘#Emergence’. Platinum is a highly versatile metal, from being used in the manufacture of the most beautiful and intricate jewellery to its application in the emission-free hydrogen fuel cell within the magnificent BMW ix5 that’s on display here this evening as a result of the collaboration between Anglo American Platinum, Sasol and the BMW SA Group.”

Moses Madondo, MD of De Beers Managed Operations, added: “De Beers is proud to be part of this year’s PlatAfrica. We’re passionate about supporting local talent in the countries where we recover diamonds and this year’s entries give me hope for the imaginative and technical capabilities that exist on the African continent and excite me about the transformative potential of this collaboration.”

The competition is one of the market development initiatives through which Anglo American Platinum contributes to the local platinum jewellery manufacturing industry.

This year, PlatAfrica featured a total of 192 (65 professional and 127 student/apprentice) entries across SA for the Student/Apprentice and Professional categories. Judges assessed the entries for creativity, originality, the interpretation of the “#Emergence” theme and technical excellence.

(Above): Armored one multi-purpose neckpiece/pendant/ ring by Mandlenkosi None and Nnete Mokgothu of The Platinum Incubator – Mo Nkosi and Nnete (3rd place professional category).

second runners-up for their magnificent “Armoured One” neckpiece/ring design.

4. The fourth place was shared by two entries: Kim Nel from Van Deijl Jewellers for her “Querencia” wrist cuff and Nihal Shah and Vijay Shah from Vijay Shah Concepts for their exquisite neckpiece titled “Kairos: An Opportune Moment”.

(Above): Arise ring by Thembani Gobingca of Cape Peninsula University of Technology (3rd place student category).

(Above): Angel Thorns neckpiece by Mamosa Lesenyeho of Pneuma Academy of Excellence (4th place student category).

(Left): Kairos “An Opportune Moment” neckpiece by Nihal Shah and Vijay Shah of Vijay Shah Concepts (4th place professional category).

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This year’s winners in the Professional category were: 1. Lungile Xhwantini from the Platinum Incubator was the overall winner for his “Khalifah” neckpiece.

2. Esther Boshoff and team from Beaudell Designs were the first runners-up for their “Nature’s Awakening” ring.

3. Mandelenkosi None and Nnete Mokgothu from the Platinum Incubator were the

The winners in the Student/Apprentice category were: 1. Jana Basson from the Cape Peninsula University of Technology for her multipurpose “Unity” neckpiece/bracelet was the overall winner.

2. Thapelo Masingi, also from the Cape Peninsula University of Technology, was the first runner-up for his distinctive “Mushia Poppy” ring design.

3. Thembani Gobingca from the Cape Peninsula University of Technology placed third for his “Arise” ring.

4. In fourth place was Mamosa Lesenyeho from the Preuma Academy of Excellence for her “Tisetsang” angel thorns neckpiece.

Lungile Xhwantini was this year’s People’s Choice award-winner for his “Khalifah” neckpiece. The award and cash prize, which is sponsored by Metal Concentrators, goes to the finalist with the highest number of votes from the public on Anglo American’s social media pages. The judges also awarded special mentions of outstanding submissions from Phillipus Wilhelmus Vorster (Rare Earth Creations), Tanya Gamble (Stellenbosch University), Tor Kaplan (City Goldsmiths/ Uwe Koetter) and Mongameli Thafeni (Cape Peninsula University of Technology).

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

M A RK E T LE A DE R IN PRE C IOUS METAL ANALYSIS THE RMO F ISHER SC IE N T IF IC™ AUDIT ™ TECHNOLOGY ACCURATELY CONFIRMS THE P RE SENCE OF • AN Y O THER N O N - G O L D SUB STRATES • TU N G ST E N • S T E E L • GOLD-PLATED COPPER • FAST , A C C U RAT E & N O N- DE S T RU C TIVE • V E RME IL (G O LD-PLA TE D S ILV E R)

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M E S SAG E F RO M T H E C E O

Time to reflect and look ahead

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the lanyards and Metal Concentrators for sponsoring the carrier bags.

Jewellex Africa 2024 will be taking place on 8-9 September, once again at the Wanderers Club in Illovo, Johannesburg.

The Jewellex365 online business-to-business platform allows suppliers, wholesalers, manufacturers and other supporting industries to sell goods and services to the trade.

We believe this to be a fantastic opportunity that will facilitate business opportunities between local and global trade. Participants on the platform can continuously upload and display new products and services throughout the year, which will encourage an ongoing flow of potential buyers. At present, this platform lacks participation and we are working on strategies to make it more effective.

A project which has grown over the year is the offering of participation to manufacturing jewellers at international

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Our biggest project this past year was hosting Jewellex Africa 2023 for the first time since 2019. It was an honour to offer this opportunity to our industry to meet up from all corners of the country – and what a success it was!

All space was sold out and the ethos of the event was that it was time to start building the blocks of Jewellex Africa and bring back a weekend during the year for the jewellery industry to network, build relationships and generate business.

We thank all our sponsors, including Rand Refinery for sponsoring the Business Breakfast, Brinks SA for once again sponsoring

The end of the year is a time to reflect, take stock of the year past and plan for the year ahead, says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA).

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have an opportunity to contact the council when employing new staff to learn whether they have been employed in the trade before and, if so, whether they were dismissed or resigned from their positions.

JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine, a consumer-retail online publication, continues to bring jewellery retailers and their offerings directly to consumers through online store traffic and foot traffic in stores. It also ensures that consumers can refer to the JCSA members' code of conduct in order to buy jewellery with confidence.

SPRING

ALTHOUGH THE PAST YEAR HAS BROUGHT continued tough market conditions for the jewellery industry, we are optimistic about the coming year.

The JCSA strives to assist members with important issues that affect their businesses.

One of the most important legislative changes has been the new VAT regulations which introduced the Domestic Reverse Charge (DRC) that affects vendors buying and selling gold and gold jewellery. In August 2023, we made two submissions to National Treasury and SARS on the draft 2023 tax bills and amendments to the DRC regulations. The first was to recommend that the DRC regulations be urgently amended to remove the exclusion of “goods produced from raw materials” by any “holder” or its contractor.

The second was to request National Treasury and SARS to consider removing insurance companies from the DRC regulations, given the detrimental effect it was having on the jewellery industry.

We await the publication of the new Tax Act. You may all be aware that National Treasury has amended the FIC Act. Of particular importance is that suppliers of high-value goods receiving payment in any form, not only cash, above R100 000 are now accountable institutions under the FICA legislation. The JCSA assists the trade with guidelines, offering opportunities for training and webinars to educate jewellers.

The JCSA has created a database of past employees who have resigned or have been dismissed due to underperformance or suspicious or criminal circumstances. Members

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

M E S SAG E F RO M T H E C E O

shows. The Department of Trade, Industry and Competition provides funding for travel, accommodation, stand hire, furniture and showcases.

In 2024, we will be taking groups of jewellers to exhibit at the Hong Kong Jewellery Fair, JCK Las Vegas, New York Now and JIS Miami. Please look out for our invitations via e-mail.

The council assists members with challenges they may experience with permit, refining and beneficiation applications to the SA Diamonds and Precious Metals Regulator.

The issue of consumer confidence is an important one for jewellers to consider when dealing with customers. The council recently published generic indemnities and disclaimers drafted by our attorneys for jewellers who

with the contact details of relevant parties.

Of utmost importance is that crimerelated incidents have increased. We have advised members that it is imperative that we work together to report such incidents to our networks and, where possible, provide useful information and images that can be circulated. Some facts circulated were that the second half of the year is historically more dangerous. High-risk times of the day have been 11am-2pm and 8-9pm. High-risk days of the week have been Sundays (when there is less traffic, allowing armed robbers to get away more easily) and Thursdays.

take possession of items that belong to the public. If you have not received them, please e-mail the council.

We provide our jewellers with Consumer Education Brochures to help educate customers. In this regard, we recently recirculated the CPA Guidelines to ensure that jewellers are aware of legislation relating to their dealings with consumers.

The council also offers a mediatory service to members and consumers in the unlikely event of a dispute arising. This service by the council allows the parties to reach agreements without having to go through expensive lawsuits.

An issue which is top of mind at the moment is that diamonds circulating in the market as certified with laboratory certificates have been found to be laboratory-grown stones.

The council supports the sale of lab-grown diamonds. However, non-disclosure is fraudulent and the onus is on the trade to ensure that they do not sell undisclosed lab-grown stones. If members sell diamonds as natural, they need ensure that they are indeed natural and cannot rely purely on warranties from suppliers.

The council, together with members’ input, has created guidelines and recommended practices relating to lab-grown diamonds with respect to terminology, disclosure,

of the JCSA and how we can increase the scope to incorporate a broader selection of companies into its membership base.

responsibility, valuations, certifications, etc.

For members selling to tourists who claim VAT refunds when leaving the country, SARS has appointed a new service provider to administer the VAT refund system at various exit points from SA. This information was shared

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

Restructuring of the JCSA You may be aware that discussions have been taking place regarding the restructuring

By increasing the scope, refiners and other industry sectors such as gemstone dealers, diamond wholesalers, numismatists and supporting industries will be brought in under separate divisions, with their respective committees and representation on the council’s board. In this way, our income will increase and the council will become more sustainable.

Many legislative changes are in the pipeline that will be affecting our industry as a whole and to address these, government requires a conduit through which it can liaise with the sector. As government already recognises the JCSA as the representative body and voice of our industry, our existence is crucial for the role we will be required to play.

There is much that still needs to be done to restructure the council. We invite input from members.

Any association is only ever as strong as the total sum of its members and we therefore invite you to participate and make use of the opportunities offered by the JCSA. For more information on the council, its activities and how to become part of a responsible jewellery community, visit our website at: www.jewellery.org.za, call us on tel: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail: admin@jewellery.org.za.

Lorna Lloyd CEO: JCSA

Our biggest project this past year was hosting Jewellex Africa 2023 for the first time since 2019. It was an honour to offer this opportunity to our industry to meet up from all corners of the country. Jewellex Africa 2024 will be taking place on 8-9 September, once again at the Wanderers Club in Illovo, Johannesburg.

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COV E R F E AT U R E

Luxury timepieces in SA are ticking The luxury watch industry in SA is a thriving world of elegance, craftsmanship and appreciation for the art of horology, with a growing community of collectors and enthusiasts, says Luxury Time, one of the largest pre-owned authentic watch businesses in the country. Its team has more than two decades’ combined experience in dealing with luxury brand watches.

Founded in 2004 and initially operating as an online-only store, Luxury Time was the first luxury watch online seller in South Africa. As its clientele grew, its online store shifted to opening appointment-only offices. It currently has four offices throughout SA, one in each major city, with its head office situated in Menlyn, Pretoria.

By 2014, Luxury Time boasted a devoted clientele base and with the steady growth in demand for pre-owned watches, its founder, Adriaan Rootman, started buying watches directly. A boutique office was set up in Pretoria where customers could view their chosen timepieces in person.

Today, the enterprise employs a customer-

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first buying model where prospective buyers can select watches from the online inventory and then arrange an in-person viewing at one of Luxury Time’s offices across the country.

However, its journey to success has not been entirely smooth. Rootman identified the need for more working capital to expand the business. Several investors expressed interest, but it was not until his introduction to Fledge Capital that he found the perfect partner.

Fledge Capital, an investment company founded by property investor Louis van der Watt and investment banker Konrad Fleischhauer, focuses on long-term potential and has built an impressive investment portfolio worth over R3 billion. The

company’s portfolio includes partnerships with major names such as King Price, Atterbury Property Investment, Oasis Water and We Buy Cars, among others.

With the new investment from Fledge Capital, Luxury Time is poised for growth, planning to expand its inventory and enhance its online presence and customer service capabilities.

“Luxury Time is a remarkable business boasting innovation, high growth potential and a proven business model. With its attractive markets and data-driven strategies, it’s poised for sustainable, profitable growth.

We’re excited about our collaboration with Adriaan to unlock its full potential,” say

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

COV E R F E AT U R E

Van der Watt and Fleischhauer, echoing confidence in their latest investment.

The luxury watch industry in SA has grown steadily over the past few decades. As the economy has developed and an affluent class of consumers has emerged, there has been an increasing demand for high-end timepieces.

South Africans have come to appreciate the art of horology and the craftsmanship that goes into creating a luxury watch.

What is more, the local market for luxury watches is not limited to major cities like Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban.

Enthusiasts can be found all over the country, from bustling urban centres to the serene countryside. This widespread interest has led to the establishment of online watch shops such as Luxury Time, ensuring that these coveted timepieces are readily accessible to those who desire them.

The local watch industry is home to a wide range of brands, both international and local. Swiss watchmakers, in particular, have made a significant impact on the South African market. Iconic names like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille are highly sought after.

However, while the luxury watch industry in SA has shown considerable growth and potential, it has not been without its challenges.

Import duties, fluctuating exchange rates and economic instability can impact the prices of luxury watches, making them more expensive for consumers. In recent years, though, efforts have been made to address some of these challenges and make luxury watches more accessible to a wider market.

The pre-owned and vintage watch market is also gaining momentum in SA. This offers collectors and enthusiasts an opportunity to acquire rare and discontinued timepieces that may not be available through traditional retail channels. Many reputable dealers specialise in pre-owned luxury watches, offering a range of brands and models to choose from.

For some in SA, luxury watches are not only symbols of prestige and style, but are

also a viable investment. Certain timepieces from renowned brands have appreciated significantly in value over the years. Collectors and investors alike see luxury watches as assets that can be enjoyed and passed down through generations, while also yielding potential financial returns.

The future of the luxury watch industry in SA looks promising, believes Luxury Time.

As the economy continues to develop and appreciation of craftsmanship and luxury increases, the market for high-end timepieces is likely to expand. Furthermore, the influx

of tourists seeking high-end shopping experiences in the country adds to SA’s appeal as a hub for luxury watches.

It is important to note that the luxury watch market is diverse and price trends can vary widely between different brands and models. While some watches may see price appreciation over time, others may experience depreciation, especially in the context of changing consumer preferences and market dynamics. To cater to the evolving tastes of South African consumers, luxury watch brands may increasingly focus on exclusivity, personalisation and innovative designs. The local watchmaking scene is also expected to continue growing, with more South African artisans making their mark on the industry, such as Mark Gold & Albany.

Luxury Time is passionate about the elegance, craftsmanship and expertise that elevate horology from the merely functional to the masterful. With a growing community of collectors and enthusiasts, the industry is poised for continued growth, making SA a compelling destination for luxury timepieces.

As the country's culture and heritage continue to influence watch designs, the industry may find new and exciting ways to celebrate the beauty of timekeeping.

The luxury watch industry in SA has grown steadily over the past few decades. As the economy has developed and an affluent class of consumers has emerged, there has been an increasing demand for high-end timepieces.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

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A DV E R TO R I A L

Regulatory reports filed by accountable institutions are central to the FIC’s work of supporting law enforcement, prosecutorial authorities, and other competent authorities in the tackling financial crime.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

A DV E R TO R I A L

High-value goods dealers and the role of implementing a risk management and compliance programme to assist in the combatting of financial crime High-value goods dealers (HVGDs) have been identified as being vulnerable to money laundering, terrorist financing and proliferation financing (ML,

• Developing and implementing a risk management and compliance programme (RMCP) • Conducting customer due diligence

TF and PF) as criminals can integrate illicit funds into the economy through their businesses.

Trends show that criminals often buy high-value goods with the proceeds of crime, which prompts the need to bring HVGDs within the regulatory ambit of the Financial Intelligence Centre Act (FIC Act). Sectors that fall under the HVGDs definition include dealers in precious metals and stones, such as jewellers.

HVGDs, in terms of the FIC Act, are businesses or persons that deal in high-value goods and receives payment in any form to the value of R100 000 or more. The transaction may be executed in a single operation or in several operations that appear to be linked.

Refer to draft public compliance communication (PCC) 119 for further reading on the Financial Intelligence

• Scrutinising client information to identify designated persons or entities and politically exposed persons • Record keeping • Providing training to employees on their RMCP and the FIC Act • Screening employees • Completing risk and compliance returns in terms of Directive 7.

Centre’s (FIC’s) interpretation of HVGDs. The FIC is South Africa’s financial intelligence unit tasked with identifying the proceeds of crime, and assisting in combating ML, TF and PF. Listed as accountable institutions under Schedule 1 to the FIC Act, HVGDs are required to fulfil certain FIC Act risk and compliance obligations aimed at combating ML, TF and PF. Registration with the FIC is the first step in meeting their risk and compliance obligations, which includes the filing of regulatory reports.

Regulatory reports filed by accountable institutions are central to the FIC’s work of

complies with all its other obligations in terms of the FIC Act. The riskbased assessments must provide for business, new products and processes, as well as client-level risk assessments.

The FIC published PCC 53 which guides accountable institutions on how to enhance their risk understanding and application through their RMCPs. In addition, PCC 53 offers guidance on how to adequately draft the RMCP document and provides a basic template that can be used as a guide. PCC 53 is in the process of being updated.

supporting law enforcement, prosecutorial authorities, and other competent authorities in the tackling financial crime.

An HVGD’s FIC Act obligations include: • Applying a risk-based approach to combating ML, TF and PF

For more information and guidance refer to the FIC website, www.fic.gov.za, for various guidance notes and public compliance communications.

Alternatively, contact the FIC’s compliance contact centre on +27 12 641 6000 or log an online compliance query on the FIC website.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

Risk management and compliance programme Section 42 of the FIC Act prescribes all the elements that must be covered in an accountable institution’s RMCP. The RMCP document must set out the institution’s governance controls, the ML, TF and PF risk assessments as well as the manner in which the accountable institution risk rates and

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J E W E L L E RY D E S I G N

Liz Loubser

Art jewellery in South Africa While precious and costume jewellery rely on classical notions of beauty and the allure of faceted stones, art jewellery is rooted in experimenting with ideas that can be worn on the body, often made with everyday materials.

Geraldine Fenn

Eric Loubser

Errico Cassar

Mariambibi Khan

NINA NEWMAN HAS BEEN a full-time lecturer in the Jewellery Design and Manufacturing Programme at the Tshwane University of Technology since 2000. As an awardwinning jewellery designer and practitioner, she has showcased her work in various local galleries and exhibitions. She is currently pursuing a doctorate in the SA art jewellery field. Her other research interests include the jewellery design process and the ethics relating to commercial jewellery design. Based in Pretoria, Newman is also a committee member of the Design Educators’ Forum of SA. SAJN asked her about art jewellery in SA. What makes a piece art jewellery?

Is there a specific criterion?

It’s very difficult to define art jewellery (also known as

Joani Groenewald

Geraldine Fenn

contemporary jewellery), as the meaning thereof can vary from person to person and may evolve over time as the world continues to change. In many ways, art jewellery is positioned between fine arts, design, craft and even fashion, bridging the gap be-

Eric Loubser

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

J E W E L L E RY D E S I G N

tween artistic expression and wearable beauty.

Typically, the focus of art jewellery is to challenge the conventional significance of jewellery and relies on the design and the message conveyed by the artist. As a result, art jewellery explores a wide range of themes. Artists might focus on various design elements, such as the study of line and scale, or explore jewellery features by incorporating diverse techniques and materials not usually associated with conventional jewellery. The artist’s work can also become deeply personal, reflecting their political, social, religious or ecological viewpoints.

Furthermore, the human body is viewed as a canvas and working space for these pieces.

Sometimes the concept of wearability is challenged by the artist, resulting in jewellery that

group exhibitions with the aim of promoting art jewellery in SA. Fenn has also showcased South African art jewellery internationally at the Munich Art Fair.

Veronica Anderson Jewellery in Bryanston, Sandton, established in 2005, is another dedicated contemporary jewellery gallery where local art jewellers are invited to participate in various exhibitions throughout the year.

Loubser Studio in Randburg has a permanent exhibition of both local and

Eric Loubser

may not be intended for practical wear at all.

Ultimately, the chosen theme, explored features and jewellery type are all combined to create a piece of wearable art that reflects the artist’s intention.

Where can one see and buy art jewellery in SA? Apart from local galleries, craft markets, online marketplace platforms that sell handmade art and various events and exhibitions such as Design Indaba and Decorex, there are very few permanent platforms where the public can view or buy pieces, besides three well-known ones, which are all in Johannesburg.

Tinsel Gallery in Melville was established by contemporary jewellery Geraldine Fenn in 2006 and is a well-known platform for artist jewellers to exhibit and sell their work. It’s presented many solo and

Liz Loubser

Samantha Vincent

(Above): Geraldine and Eric from Tinsel showing in Munich in March.

Marchand van Tonder

Eric Loubser Geraldine Fenn

Carine Terreblanche Carine Terreblanche

Liz Loubser

In many ways, art jewellery is positioned between fine arts, design, craft and even fashion, bridging the gap between artistic expression and wearable beauty.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

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J E W E L L E RY D E S I G N

international art jewellery pieces. Some of them are privately bought from internationally famed art jewellers such as Ted Noten, Otto Künzli and Wendy Ramshaw.

Are there many art jewellers in SA? Art jewellery in SA represents a specialised niche within the already limited jewellery industry. Consequently, there are only a handful of art jewellers in the country. This niche’s small scale, combined with a limited number of patrons and collectors, makes it challenging (though not impossible) to pursue art jewellery as a full-time career.

Nevertheless, several South African art jewellers, such as Geraldine Fenn, Beverley Price, Eric Loubser, Chris de Beer, Khanya

Eric Loubser

Geraldine Fenn

Is art jewellery a financially sustainable career?

While making a living as an art jeweller

Mathethwa and Carine Terreblanche, have

Carine Terreblanche

Marchand van Tonder

gained recognition both locally and on the international stage for their remarkable work. Hopefully, with increased exposure to this genre, we can expect to see a growth in the number of art jewellers and collectors in the future.

What are popular materials used in art jewellery? Do these differ from country to country?

Art jewellers have the freedom to use a wide range of materials in their creations. However, one of the objectives of an art jeweller is to explore these materials, experimenting and imbuing them with new meanings.

These materials can be diverse, including natural forms such as feathers, wood and seashells, as well as synthetic substances like plastic and nylon. Sometimes they include found objects,

(Above): Tinsel's stand at Internationale Handwerksmesse in Munich.

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refer to specific cultures.

Given that the choice of material can significantly shape the design’s concept, many art jewellers opt for locally sourced materials. This approach reflects the diverse cultures and natural beauty of the region or country where they work. In SA, for example, many art jewellers incorporate local materials such as indigenous woods and traditional glass beads, lending their creations a distinctly South African identity.

Ultimately, the choice of material can function as a symbolic medium, introduce a new visual impact or evoke strong emotions tied to personal experiences.

which can hold personal or cultural significance, such as found objects that serve as personal mementos or traditional craft materials like beads, which can symbolise or

can be challenging, the abundance of local inspiration, materials and techniques has inspired the work of a small group of South African jewellery artists who’re carving a name for themselves locally and internationally. As our international contemporaries are aware, this is no easy feat. Despite multiple initiatives aimed at increasing exposure for local art jewellers, such as the Contemporary Jewellery Forum, held at the University of Johannesburg in 2017 and 2018, and the South African Contemporary Jewellery Awards, hosted in 2018 and 2019, the art jewellery movement in SA lost its momentum after the COVID-19 pandemic. Nevertheless, there are now renewed efforts to revive this movement, so there’s hope that these artists will leave a lasting mark in the world of art jewellery.

Eric Loubser

Geraldine Fenn

Samantha Vincent

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

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J E W E L L E RY D E S I G N

Husband-and-wife team launches carbon fibre ring collection

BEZALEL ATELIER EMERGED IN THE midst of the COVID-19 lockdown in 2020. Martie was already running a wooden décor business, while Awie had lost his job as an engineer due to the pandemic. They put their heads together and the lockdown provided the perfect opportunity to explore their new idea: crafting wooden rings. Both have a strong passion for creating and decided to utilise the materials they had available. As their designs gained traction, they expanded their offerings to include more ring styles.

Handcrafting beautiful rings from a variety of interesting natural and synthetic materials is a passion of husband-and-wife team, Awie and Martie Potgieter of Bezalel Atelier.

SAJN asked them about their latest favourite ring material, carbon fibre.

What inspired you to start your own brand?

From the outset, we had a clear vision for our brand.

Over time, we came to realise that it wasn’t defined by what we made, but rather by how we made it. Our brand centres on connecting with our customers, understanding their unique needs and crafting a one-of-a-kind piece of jewellery that tells a story. Transforming someone’s ideas into a tangible ring that they can cherish is truly a special experience for us. In short, our brand is our passion.

How would you describe your jewellery?

We take pride in offering exceptional men’s rings that are anything but ordinary. Whether it’s a wedding band or a statement piece, our collection is designed to make an impact. Our rings are tailored to suit a range of lifestyles, from the hunter with his kudu horn and leadwood hunting ring to the adventurous 4x4 explorer with his robust camo

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

J E W E L L E RY D E S I G N

ring and the flamboyant nightlife enthusiast with his gold and opal ring. We believe that every ring should represent the wearer’s unique identity. That’s why we’re dedicated to creating distinctive rings that men can truly love and cherish.

What materials do you use in your jewellery collections?

We pride ourselves on our experimentation with an array of materials. While we utilise traditional materials like silver and gold as a foundation for our rings, we also incorporate unique materials such as buffalo horn, exotic hardwoods, various engineered materials and, most recently, carbon fibre.

As a new business in the South African jewellery sector, we hold deep respect for this industry. Our mission is to enhance the value proposition for retail stores and jewellers by offering unique, high-quality products.

Why did you decide to work with carbon fibre?

Working with carbon fibre is an unparalleled experience. Its appearance and texture are distinct from any other material – its sheen and interaction with light are truly remarkable. Furthermore, its lightweight nature makes it feel as if you’re not wearing a ring at all. Its smoothness and lightness are unparalleled. However, the real magic of carbon fibre lies in its strength. It’s used in some of the world’s most cutting-edge designs and creations and incorporating it into men’s rings is a natural progression for jewellery to remain in step with our constantly evolving world.

What makes carbon fibre such a good material for jewellery?

The endless design possibilities it offers.

Whatever concept you can imagine, there’s a means of actualising it. The exclusivity and uniqueness of carbon fibre further enhance its appeal as a jewellery-making material.

What challenges or limitations do you experience when using carbon fibre?

At our atelier, we handle the entire production process of our carbon fibre ring blanks.

Creating an outstanding ring blank involves managing multiple variables, which can be challenging. Fortunately, with Awie’s background as a metallurgical engineer, we have the experience to maintain control over the manufacturing process, ensuring that the final product’s of consistently high quality.

Manufacturing from raw materials enables

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

us to produce rings in a range of colours and textures, which lays the groundwork for even more creativity in ring design.

Where do you source your inspiration when designing pieces?

Jewellery-making isn’t just a job to us – we truly love what we do. Even when we’re not crafting rings, we’re constantly on the lookout for ideas. Inspiration can come from anywhere: a casual chat with friends or a passing glimpse of something intriguing. Our eyes have trained themselves to see things from unique angles, opening possibilities for fresh concepts and because we have the skills to move quickly from idea to prototype, we often take a break from our routine to experiment with new ideas. Not every prototype makes the cut, but the journey to creating something new is always thrilling.

Will you be selling your carbon fibre collections through retail stores?

Absolutely. Our carbon fibre collections are available to retail stores. We’re flexible enough to fit specific store requirements and are also open to crafting unique items on request from jewellers.

What is next for Bezalel Atelier?

As a new business in the South African jewellery sector, we hold deep respect for this industry. Our mission is to enhance the value proposition for retail stores and jewellers by offering unique, high-quality products. We take pride in the fact that we can make a difference to the way someone feels when they look at the ring on their finger. We’re just getting started and can’t wait to see what the future holds!

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The Jewellery Council of South Africa is a voluntary, Non Profit Company that represents the interests of Jewellery Manufacturers, Retailers, Refiners, Wholesalers and Service Members.

For further information on membership benefits visit:

www.jewellery.org.za

Become a Member Today!

Inquiries: Darryl van der Linde on (011) 484 5528 or darrylv@jewellery.org.za

Tel: (011) 484 5528 • E-mail: admin@jewellery.org.za

S E E N ARO U N D

Bellagio hosts exclusive Diamond Privé Showcasing luxury and elegance, Bellagio Jewellers held its annual event, the Bellagio Diamond Privé, at the prestigious Michelangelo Towers Cupola Suite in Johannesburg. This exclusive, invitation-only event offered clients a look at the year’s latest jewellery collections and new timepieces.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

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B U S I N E S S M A N AG E M E N T

Protecting your business from social media scammers With the staggering rise of social media scams globally, business executives find themselves increasingly targeted by cyber-criminals seeking to exploit their personal and professional lives.

WHATSAPP, FACEBOOK AND INSTAGRAM have become prime platforms for scammers to lure victims into their web of deception.

Social media scams have witnessed an alarming surge in recent years. In South Africa and around the world, cyber-criminals are exploiting the widespread use of social media platforms to perpetrate their illicit activities.

While the most common forms of these scams involve phishing, fake profiles and financial fraud, there is a more targeted and insidious threat lurking for high-level business executives.

Dean Vorster, Chief Technology Officer at Zinia, a well-established IT technology group that specialises in serving the corporate sector, explains: “Cyber-criminals have adapted their

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strategies to focus on executives and high-level managers. Their primary objective is to obtain private photos or sensitive information that can be used for extortion and harassment. The modus operandi involves identifying key targets on social media, following them, hacking their accounts to access compromising content [eg sexually explicit or radical political websites, chat groups or e-mails] and subsequently launching a targeted harassment campaign with the aim of extracting a ransom.”

Understanding the psychology The psychology adopted by these scammers is both manipulative and coercive. They employ tactics that place their victims under immense pressure, employing relentless calls and threats to exploit the natural human response of fear. By leveraging the victim’s anxiety and apprehension, they create a heightened state of emotional distress. This strategy is designed to throw the victim off balance, making them more susceptible to the scammer’s demands.

Threats to expose personal information to family, colleagues and clients intensify this anxiety, further increasing the victim’s vulnerability. In essence, these scammers seek to control their target’s emotions, using fear as a potent weapon to achieve their malicious goals.

How to spot a fake account Scammers take the time to research and plot their attacks. They look for high-profile executives or individuals in senior positions whose careers, reputations and relationships would be affected by revealing personal photographs or information.

“Recognising the signs of a fake social media account is crucial in protecting yourself from scammers, as this is their point of entry to an attack,” warns Vorster.

Vorster’s’ top tips to identify fake profiles: Friend requests and followers: Be cautious of sudden friend requests or followers from unfamiliar accounts. Even if they have followed someone you know, do not accept their requests blindly. Scammers use these tactics to gain access to your network.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

B U S I N E S S M A N AG E M E N T

Profile: Check the profile information thoroughly. Fake accounts often have incomplete or inconsistent details. Look for discrepancies in names, locations and job titles.

Picture: Examine the profile picture closely.

Fake accounts frequently use stock photos or stolen images from the Internet. Conduct a reverse image search if you suspect foul play.

Activity and engagement: Fake accounts typically have minimal activity and engagement.

Be wary of profiles with a limited number of posts, followers or connections. If the only photos available on their profile page are of the same individual, this is also a red flag.

Content quality: Assess the quality of content shared by the account. Fake profiles often post generic or low-quality content.

Look for unusual or inconsistent language use.

Securing your social media accounts “Now that you know how scammers operate and how to spot fake accounts, it’s essential to take proactive measures to secure your social media presence,” says Vorster.

Six tips to help protect yourself and your business: 1. Content: Be discerning about what you share online – photographs that reveal location, location check-ins and personal opinions – as these all give scammers information they can use to plan a well thought-out and targeted attack.

2. Enable back-up codes: When creating a social media account, enable the “back-up code” option. Store these codes securely, as they can help regain access to your account if it is compromised.

3. Use two-factor authentication (2FA): Implement two-factor authentication for your accounts. Utilise apps like Google Authenticator, which provides an extra layer of security by requiring an authentication code for every log-in.

4. Strengthen passwords: Ensure your passwords are complex and unique. Avoid

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

Social media scams have witnessed an alarming surge in recent years. In South Africa and around the world, cyber-criminals are exploiting the widespread use of social media platforms to perpetrate their illicit activities.

using personal information such as your name or birthdate, as these are easy for hackers to guess. Use a combination of letters, numbers and special characters.

5. Regularly check log-in activity: Periodically review log-in activity in your account settings. Look for unusual devices or locations that may indicate unauthorised access.

6. Privacy settings: Keep your social media accounts private, especially if they are for personal use. If you are managing a business page or account, consider separating your personal and professional profiles to maintain your privacy.

In an era of escalating cyber-threats, business executives must remain vigilant against the perils of social media scams.

By understanding the tactics employed by scammers, recognising fake accounts and implementing robust security measures, executives can protect their personal information, reputations and businesses from the clutches of cyber-criminals. Stay safe, stay secure and navigate the digital landscape with confidence.

About the author Dean Vorster, Chief Technology Officer at Zinia, is responsible for the company’s technology direction and implementation, as well as the management of Zinia’s IT services, products and resources. He has more than 14 years’ expertise in IT, starting with Argonaut Consulting, where he was employed for seven years and became the second-in-command to the CEO. When Argonaut joined the Zinia group of companies, Vorster became the Technical Director of Zinia’s IT division. A few years later, he was promoted to CTO. Vorster is passionate about implementing best practices, standards and procedures for technical solutions, within a solution-driven approach.

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Monthly educational insert FEATURE ARTICLE

DIAMOND REFLECTIONS

Eclogite: Diamond-Encrusted Ancient Seafloor Evan M. Smith and Matthew F. Hardman

SPONSORED BY

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The Link Between Eclogite and Diamonds Earth’s surface is divided into tectonic plates, and the ones that make up the ocean floor are destined to sink. Sheets of oceanic crust typically bend and sink down into Earth’s interior at so-called subduction zones. Occasionally these banished slivers of ancient seafloor may become a sort of unexpected canvas to be painted with a sparkling sea of diamonds. In fact, ancient seafloor rocks that have been incorporated into old and thick parts of continents are one of the most important mantle substrates or “host rocks” for diamond growth (Stachel et al., 2022a). This particular host rock, known as eclogite, can be found as distinct fragments, called xenoliths, at some diamond mines and is also represented by mineral inclusions in diamonds (figure 1). Our current understanding of where and how diamonds crystallize is largely based on mineral inclusions trapped inside them. The diamonds we mine were brought up to Earth’s surface by kimberlites and related magmatic rocks, but they did not crystallize directly from this magma. Rather, the diamonds formed by independent processes and are usually millions or billions of years older than the kimberlitic magmas that inadvertently swept them up to the surface. Most diamonds (~98%) were formed at a depth of about 150–200 km within the continental lithosphere, essentially in old and thick parts of continents. Based on the relative abundance of mineral inclusions in a studied set of 2,844 diamonds, the three principal mantle host rocks here are peridotite (65%), eclogite (33%), and websterite (2%) (Stachel and Harris, 2008). Eclogitic diamonds constitute a significant portion of the gem diamond market, and their features embody the dynamic processes unique to Earth.

Metamorphic rocks are sometimes classified into groups, called metamorphic facies, based on the pressure and temperature conditions at which they formed. One of these groups is known as eclogite facies. Any given metamorphic facies encompasses metamorphic rocks that form under the same range of pressure and temperature conditions, regardless of what the exact starting rock, or protolith, might have been. Figure 3 shows where the eclogite facies and other metamorphic facies fall within a pressure vs. temperature diagram. When basalt or gabbro from the oceanic crust get subducted, they metamorphose through zeolite and blueschist facies before transforming into eclogite at depths of about 50 km.

If the eclogite were carried deeper still, the clinopyroxene would begin to break down between 300 and 400 km, followed by the appearance of a new phase, stishovite (SiO2) (Irifune and Ringwood, 1987). At this point, it would technically not be eclogite but could be described by the more general terms metabasalt or metagabbro. With varying pressure and temperature, the mineralogy can change drastically, even if the bulk composition of the rock remains unchanged.

Ancient Seafloor and the Process of Subduction Inclusions (figure 1) and xenoliths (figure 2) show that eclogite has served as a host rock for diamond growth at depths of about 150–200 km. But that eclogite has actually traveled a long way from its birthplace. Those same eclogitic inclusions and xenoliths have chemical and isotopic characteristics

What Is Eclogite?

Typically, eclogite refers to a colorful red and green metamorphic rock that is made up of two key minerals: grossular-almandinepyrope garnet and omphacitic clinopyroxene (figure 2) (Winter, 2010). Additional minerals sometimes present include rutile, coesite, kyanite, and iron-rich sulfides. All of these can be encountered as mineral inclusions in diamond. Eclogite can form in several ways, but the dominant process involves oceanic crust sinking down into the mantle (by subduction).

The basalt and gabbro that make up oceanic crust undergo a transformation, known as metamorphism, as a result of changes in pressure and temperature that cause some minerals to break down and new ones to form.

Editor’s note: Questions or topics of interest should be directed to Evan Smith (evan.smith@gia.edu).

GEMS & GEMOLOGY, VOL. 59, NO. 3, pp. 380–386. © 2023 Gemological Institute of America

Figure 1. Mineral inclusions in diamond. This connected pair of green clinopyroxene and orange garnet indicates that diamond growth occurred within an eclogitic mantle host rock. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 2 mm.

AN INTRODUCTION ISSUE TO 11 GEMSTONES

Figure 2. Polished slice of an eclogite xenolith. This backlit specimen shows the typical orange garnet and green clinopyroxene that make up eclogite.

Recovered from the Roberts Victor mine in South Africa, this eclogite xenolith (sample JJG-243) is part of the Mantle Room collection curated by the University of Cape Town.

Photomicrograph by Evan M. Smith; field of view approximately 5 cm.

indicating that the protolith originated at Earth’s surface as oceanic crust. Present-day ocean floors are composed of oceanic crust with an underlying layer of mantle peridotite, which together form a rigid plate called lithosphere that “floats” upon the convecting upper mantle because it is less dense (figure 4). Oceanic crust is generated at mid-ocean ridges, where the two plates on either side of the ridge spread apart from one another. The gap left between the diverging plates is filled by rock that flows up from beneath and partially melts, producing the magma that will make up newly formed crust.

When these magmas erupt at the seafloor, they cool quickly and form a dark, fine-grained rock called basalt. At deeper levels within a mid-ocean ridge, the magma cools slowly and crystallizes as coarser-grained rocks, chiefly gabbro. Oceanic crust is produced continuously at mid-ocean ridges on the ocean floor. Old crust is pushed farther from the ridge as new crust is produced. Old oceanic crust will cool, increasing its density. After millions of years, and driven by continual midocean spreading, the oceanic crust will eventually collide with continental crust, which is generally much less dense due to its different mineralogy and elemental composition. When the oceanic crust collides with continental crust, the large difference in density leads the oceanic crust to subduct into the upper mantle beneath the continental crust (figure 4).

Subduction is the process by which a plate on the earth’s surface moves beneath another and sinks into the mantle.

During subduction, oceanic crust undergoes a progressive sequence of metamorphic reactions as pressure and temperature increase with depth (figure 3). This increases the

density of the rock, which may continue to subduct until it transforms into eclogite. Occasionally, subducted eclogite is incorporated into the deep roots beneath continents, where the majority of diamond formation occurs, as shown by the green and orange lenses in figure 4.

Geoscientists can inspect aspects of eclogite geochemistry and isotopic composition to reconstruct its history. For example, when basalt forms at a mid-ocean ridge, it has

Figure 3. Metamorphic facies diagram. Each field in this pressure vs. temperature chart represents a group of metamorphic rocks that share similar characteristics. Eclogite is a high-pressure metamorphic facies as well as a rock name. The orange line gives a hypothetical pathway for the subduction of oceanic crust. Boundaries are gradational and do not actually exist as sharp divisions in P-T space. Adapted from Winter (2010).

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Figure 4. Diagram of a mid-ocean ridge and subduction zone. At mid-ocean ridges, the upper mantle upwells and melts, and the melts crystallize as oceanic crust.

The oceanic crust spreads away from the ridge and subducts into the mantle beneath continental crust, which is more buoyant. Diamonds may be stable in the deep roots of continents, within the continental lithospheric mantle. They may form in association with mantle peridotite or eclogite. Kimberlite may rip diamond and mantle rocks from these deep roots as they erupt to the surface.

an oxygen isotope composition that is similar to the upper mantle source region from which it was derived. When seawater interacts with oceanic crust, however, it can change the oxygen isotope composition of the rock, shifting it away from the original mantle-like value. Oxygen isotope compositions of minerals in eclogite that are outside the range of the typical ambient mantle are considered evidence that the eclogite had a protolith that was exposed to seawater prior to subduction (Jacob, 2004; Korolev et al., 2018, and references therein).

Eclogites also have relatively high concentrations of sodium compared to many other mantle rocks. This sodium comes from plagioclase in the oceanic protoliths, but during subduction the plagioclase becomes unstable and breaks down, with its constituent elements—including sodium— redistributed to new minerals formed during metamorphism.

With the proper analytical equipment, elements with extremely low abundance (e.g., concentrations at the parts per million or billion level) can be measured in eclogite minerals.

Among these are the rare earth elements (REE), which are a group of 17 elements including the lanthanides (lanthanum, cerium, praseodymium, neodymium, promethium, samarium, europium, gadolinium, terbium, dysprosium, holmium, erbium, thulium, ytterbium, and lutetium) plus scandium and yttrium. Slight differences in the behavior of these elements during geological processes can lead to changes in their relative concentrations, imparting a sort of chemical imprint of a rock’s history. REE concentrations in igneous rocks can be inherited from their magmatic sources and subsequently modified by melting and other processes in the earth.

Figure 5. REE patterns for three eclogites with different europium anomalies. The concentrations of all elements are normalized to the elemental concentrations in chondritic meteorites (McDonough and Sun, 1995).

In many mantle rocks, REE patterns will have a smooth trend, with the concentration of europium being intermediate to the elements samarium and gadolinium (figure 5). Some eclogites, however, may have a positive or negative europium “anomaly” when compared to samarium and gadolinium (figure 5). The mineral plagioclase tends to have strong positive europium anomalies, as europium incorporates into plagioclase very strongly relative to other REE. Consequently, an igneous rock that accumulates plagioclase (such as gabbro in oceanic crust) may inherit a positive europium anomaly. A rock that forms from a magma that previously crystallized plagioclase (such as an oceanic lava) will have a negative europium anomaly.

As plagioclase is only stable in the shallow portions of the

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earth (<30 km, approximately), eclogites with detectable europium anomalies are generally inferred to have protoliths that formed at shallow depths. Seeing this signature in mantlederived rocks, such as eclogite xenoliths at a diamond mine, requires that those rocks formed near the surface and were carried down into the mantle by subduction (and in the case of xenoliths, these rocks have been brought back up again by kimberlites). Eclogite xenoliths really have come a long way.

Recycled Carbon and Its Contribution to Diamond Growth Not all carbon atoms are identical. By paying close attention to differences in their mass (carbon isotopes), geologists have observed that diamonds formed in eclogite are distinguished by an unusual signature (figure 6). The signature suggests that eclogitic diamonds contain “recycled” carbon that was subducted from Earth’s surface down into the mantle, where diamond growth occurred (figure 4). A typical carbon atom has 6 protons and 6 neutrons in its nucleus, which sum to give its atomic mass, 12. Carbon 12 (12C) is the most common isotope of carbon. About 1% of naturally occurring carbon atoms have an extra neutron and therefore a mass of 13.

Carbon-13 (13C) is the second-most abundant isotope of carbon. Given that 12C and 13C have different masses, they behave slightly differently during chemical reactions. When plants grow, for example, photosynthesis favors 12C. As a result, plants are enriched in 12C (and depleted in 13C) relative to the initial carbon dioxide in the atmosphere.

Scientists can gain insight into many carbon-bearing materials by measuring the relative proportions of 12C and 13C. For any measurement, the 13C/12C ratio is reported in terms of how different it is from an agreed-upon standard (a reference known as the Vienna Pee Dee Belemnite). This deviation is written as �13C (pronounced “delta C thirteen”) expressed in parts per thousand (per mille, ‰) and is calculated as �13C = [(13C/12C)sample/(13C/12C)standard−1]×1000.

Figure 6. Carbon isotope histograms for peridotitic and eclogitic diamonds. While both histograms show a mode centered near –5‰ that corresponds to mantle carbon, eclogitic diamonds have a tail of negative values stretching beyond –40‰ that is thought to reflect subducted organic carbon. Data are from Stachel et al. (2022b).

Figure 6 shows �13C values for peridotitic and eclogitic diamonds. The histograms convey information about sources of carbon and potentially about the chemical process of diamond formation as well. In both histograms, the large peak centered at –5‰ corresponds to the average composition of carbon spread throughout the mantle (Cartigny, 2005).

Eclogitic diamonds, however, possess a conspicuous tail of negative values or “light” isotopic compositions. These negative values are one of the most debated features of diamond geology, with no firm consensus on the exact processes at play (Cartigny, 2005).

The most accepted general view is that the negative isotopic trend of eclogitic diamonds stems from subducted carbon (Li et al., 2019; Stachel et al., 2022b). Subducted carbon is thought to mix with the ambient carbon already present in the mantle to give the range of observed carbon isotopic characteristics in eclogitic diamonds (figure 6). The recycled carbon could come in the form of sediments and altered oceanic crust containing organic matter and carbonates (biogenic and abiogenic) (Li et al., 2019). Taking into account the covariations in nitrogen concentration and isotopes suggests that eclogitic diamond formation involves multiple subducted ingredients that mix in complex ways during the process (Stachel et al., 2022b). Although there are unresolved details, the evidence is strong that a portion of the carbon in eclogitic diamonds is subducted. These diamonds are a physical manifestation of the deep and ancient geological carbon cycle.

Eclogitic Diamond Ages Through the incredible phenomenon of radioactive decay, many rocks and minerals have a sort of built-in natural clock.

Radioactive decay is the process whereby unstable radioactive elements break down over time, with different elements each having a predictable decay rate. Several decay systems apply to various types of inclusions in diamonds, and their analysis

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diamonds only become prevalent among those younger than 3.0 billion years. This change arguably marked the first major episode of subduction of oceanic crust beneath a continent and the onset of the Wilson-cycle style of movements that characterize modern plate tectonics (Shirey and Richardson, 2011). Effectively, this model suggests there are no eclogitic diamonds older than 3.0 billion years because oceanic crust was not yet being subducted and incorporated as eclogite into the continental lithospheric mantle.

Figure 7. Diagram of a hypothetical kimberlite pipe. The kimberlite erupts through existing rocks and geologic formations (“country rock”). The shape, size, and distribution of rocks within a kimberlite pipe are highly variable from occurrence to occurrence. The country rock is arbitrary in this diagram and will vary based on the local geology into which the kimberlite erupts. The majority of kimberlites are not diamond-bearing (Kjarsgaard et al., 2022).

has led to our understanding that diamonds are millions to billions of years old (Smit and Shirey, 2019). The oldest diamonds are 3.5 billion years old, and diamonds have been forming episodically since that time, spanning three-quarters of Earth’s history. Their antiquity combined with their deep mantle origin makes diamonds a unique record of large-scale geological evolution.

For example, diamond ages may provide a time stamp to mark the beginning of modern-style plate tectonics. Many of us are at least vaguely familiar with the notion that roughly 200 million years ago, the continents to the east and west of the Atlantic Ocean were nestled together in the supercontinent Pangaea. The Atlantic grew and opened up as Pangaea broke apart. The subduction zone and mid-ocean ridge spreading center depicted in figure 4 are integral mechanisms that explain how tectonic plates move, how new oceans form, and how old ones close and vanish. This dynamic surface structure is unique to Earth. Our planet did not always have plate tectonics, however, and at one point, its surface was a giant magma ocean. So when exactly did things change and the processes we observe today take hold?

Geologists have used several methods to constrain the timing of when plate tectonics began, including clues from diamonds. Comparing samples of different ages reveals that they are not all equal across time. Diamonds older than 3.0 billion years are exclusively peridotitic, whereas eclogitic

Economic Importance of Eclogitic Diamonds Finding an economic diamond deposit is no trivial matter. Even after locating one or more kimberlites (figure 7) or lamproites, it is a challenging exercise to evaluate the quantity and quality of diamonds. A key variable that can make or break a potential mine is the presence of eclogitic diamonds. In some deposits, eclogitic diamonds are much more abundant than might be expected based on the relatively small amount of eclogite in the mantle.

Most of the continental lithospheric mantle is made up of peridotite (>95 vol.%; figure 4). Conversely, eclogite has a low global abundance (<5 vol.%) (Dawson and Stephens, 1975; Schulze, 1989), yet some mines can contain much higher abundances of eclogitic diamonds, to the point where they dominate the diamond population, such as at Koidu (Sierra Leone) and Orapa (Botswana). One in three diamonds have eclogitic vs. peridotitic mineral inclusions, indicating a relatively large proportion of diamonds are associated with eclogite (Stachel and Harris, 2008). While not all eclogites are associated with diamond, small volumes of eclogite in some kimberlites could be indicative of diamond-rich deposits.

Kimberlites can be very small (as small as 50 m across) and show very little topographic relief, making them difficult to find. Over millions of years, these sites may become completely covered by vegetation or water (forming lakes).

In these cases, kimberlites can be located by exploiting their physical proper ties, as they erupt through existing rock and may have different magnetic or gravimetric proper ties from the surrounding material. Aerial surveys that passively examine the landscape, searching for gravitational or magnetic anomalies, could potentially identify a kimberlite. A more direct approach is to use kimberlite indicator minerals (figure 8). Even in kimberlites that are diamond-bearing, diamonds may be present in abundances at the par ts per million level. Conversely, rocks that are associated with diamonds are generally much more abundant and easier to locate. Minerals in these rocks commonly have elemental compositions that reflect the rock from which they derived

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and, occasionally, an association with diamond itself. For example, there is an observed association between diamond and mantle peridotites that are very chemically depleted (i.e., experienced substantial melting in the mantle, removing elemental components from their structure) (Gurney, 1984).

The compositions of the garnets in these peridotites are characterized by low calcium contents and high chromium contents (Grütter et al., 2004). Garnets in eclogite are very different and instead have low chromium contents and variable calcium (Grütter et al., 2004). Given the dispropor tionate number of eclogitic diamonds compared to the global abundance of eclogite, even a small number of eclogitic garnets, such as the orange grains in figure 8, may indicate an economically valuable deposit. Minerals within kimberlite can be redistributed by rivers or glaciers, so if a garnet with composition similar to those associated

with diamond is found in stream sediment or glacial till, this could indicate that a kimberlite deposit—possibly a diamond-bearing one—occurs upstream. When identified, a kimberlite deposit could one day be developed into an operating diamond mine.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS Dr. Evan M. Smith is a senior research scientist with GIA in New York, and Dr. Matthew F. Hardman is a research scientist at GIA in Carlsbad, California.

Figure 8. Broken-up sample of kimberlite from the Ekati diamond mine in northern Canada featuring colorful mantle indicator mineral grains. The bright green diopside and purple garnets are from peridotite, and the orange garnets (indicated by arrows) are from eclogite. Photo by Evan M. Smith; field of view approximately 2 cm.

Dr. Evan M. Smith is a senior research scientist with GIA in New York, and Dr. Matthew F. Hardman is a research scientist at GIA in Carlsbad, California.

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REFERENCES Cartigny P. (2005) Stable isotopes and the origin of diamond. Elements, Vol. 1, No. 2, pp. 79–84, http://dx.doi.org/10.2113/ gselements.1.2.79 Dawson J.B., Stephens W.E. (1975) Statistical classification of garnets from kimberlite and associated xenoliths. Journal of Geology, Vol. 83, No. 5, pp. 589–607.

Grütter H.S., Gurney J.J., Menzies A.H., Winter F. (2004) An updated classification scheme for mantle-derived garnet, for use by diamond explorers. Lithos, Vol. 77, No. 1-4, pp. 841–857, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.lithos.2004.04.012 Gurney J.J. (1984) A correlation between garnets and diamonds in kimberlite. In J.E. Glover and P.G. Harris, Eds., Kimberlite Occurrence and Origin: A Basis for Conceptual Models in Exploration, Volume Publication 8, Geology Department and University Extension, University of Western Australia, pp. 143–166.

Irifune T., Ringwood A.E. (1987) Phase transformations in primitive morb and pyrolite compositions to 25 Gpa and some geophysical implications. In M.H. Manghnani and Y. Syono, Eds., High‐Pressure Research in Mineral Physics. Terra Scientific Publishing Company, Tokyo, and the American Geophysical Union, Washington DC, pp. 231–242, http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/GM039p0231 Jacob D.E. (2004) Nature and origin of eclogite xenoliths from kimberlites. Lithos, Vol. 77, No. 1-4, pp. 295–316, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.lithos.2004.03.038 Kjarsgaard B.A., de Wit M., Heaman L.M., Pearson D.G., Stiefenhofer J., Janusczcak N., Shirey S.B. (2022) A review of the geology of global diamond mines and deposits. Reviews in Mineralogy and Geochemistry, Vol. 88, No. 1, pp. 1–117, http://dx.doi.org/10.2138/rmg.2022.88.01 Korolev N.M., Melnik A.E., Li X.-H., Skublov S.G. (2018) The oxygen isotope composition of mantle eclogites as a proxy of their origin and evolution: A review. Earth-Science Reviews, Vol. 185, pp. 288–300, http://dx.doi.org/ 10.1016/j.earscirev.2018.06.007

Li K., Li L., Pearson D.G., Stachel T. (2019) Diamond isotope compositions indicate altered igneous oceanic crust dominates deep carbon recycling. Earth and Planetary Science Letters, Vol. 516, pp. 190–201, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.epsl.2019.03.041 McDonough W.F., Sun S.-S. (1995) The composition of the Earth.

Chemical Geology, Vol. 120, No. 3-4, pp. 223–253, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0009-2541(94)00140-4 Schulze D.J. (1989) Constraints on the abundance of eclogite in the upper mantle. Journal of Geophysical Research: Solid Earth, Vol. 94, No. B4, pp. 4205–4212, http://dx.doi.org/ 10.1029/JB094iB04p04205 Shirey S.B., Richardson S.H. (2011) Start of the Wilson Cycle at 3 Ga shown by diamonds from subcontinental mantle.

Science, Vol. 333, No. 6041, pp. 434–436, http://dx.doi.org/ 10.1126/science.1206275 Smit K.V. and Shirey S.B. (2019) Diamonds from the Deep: How old are diamonds? Are they forever? G&G, Vol. 55, No. 1, pp.

102–109.

Stachel T., Harris J.W. (2008) The origin of cratonic diamonds— Constraints from mineral inclusions. Ore Geology Reviews, Vol. 34, No. 1-2, pp. 5–32, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/ j.oregeorev.2007.05.002 Stachel T., Aulbach S., Harris J.W. (2022a) Mineral inclusions in lithospheric diamonds. Reviews in Mineralogy and Geochemistry, Vol. 88, No. 1, pp. 307–391, http://dx.doi.org/ 10.2138/rmg.2022.88.06 Stachel T., Cartigny P., Chacko T., Pearson D.G. (2022b) Carbon and nitrogen in mantle-derived diamonds. Reviews in Mineralogy and Geochemistry, Vol. 88, No. 1, pp. 809–875, http://dx.doi.org/10.2138/rmg.2022.88.15 Winter J.D. (2010) Principles of Igneous and Metamorphic Petrology, 2nd ed. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey, Pearson Education, 702 pp.

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GEMS & GEMOLOGY

DIAMOND REFLECTIONS

FALL 2023

M A K E A DAT E

International event calendar 2024 25 January-5 February 2023 Tucson Gem & Jewellery Show Exhibition for gemstones and jewellery Professional visitors only

31 January-4 February 2024 Watch & Jewellery Middle East Watch and jewellery exhibition Professional visitors and general public

Tucson Expo Centre Tucson, Arizona, USA

Expo Centre Sharjah Sharjah, UAE

21-25 February 2024 Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Fair International trade fair for gemstones and jewellery Professional visitors and general public IMPACT Exhibition Centre Nonthaburi, Thailand

26-29 May 2024 GOGS Las Vegas Gem & Jewellery Trade Show Exhibition for gemstones and jewellery Professional visitors only The Mirage Las Vegas, Nevada, USA

3-7 September 2024 Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair Timepieces trade fair Professional visitors only Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Hong Kong, China

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

14-17 March 2024 China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair International jewellery fair Professional visitors only Shenzhen Convention & Exhibition Centre Shenzhen, China

31 May-3 June 2024 JCK Las Vegas Exhibition of jewellery Professional visitors only Venetian Resort Hotel Las Vegas, Nevada, USA

7-9 September 2024 Midora Order and information fair for the watch and jewellery industry Professional visitors only Messe Leipzig Leipzig, Germany

20-22 January 2024 Bijorhca The international fine fashion jewellery, watch and technical industries show Professional visitors only Paris Expo Porte de Versailles Paris, France

16-19 February 2024 Inhorgenta Munich International fair for jewellery, timepieces and lifestyle Professional visitors only Messe München Munich, Germany

9-15 April 2024 Watches & Wonders Geneva The most prestigious event of the year for the horology industry Professional visitors only Halles de Palexpo Geneva, Switzerland

8-11 July 2024 SIJE Singapore International Jewellery Expo International jewellery exhibition Professional visitors and general public Sands Expo & Convention Centre Singapore

8-9 September 2024 Jewellex Africa Africa’s premier jewellery and watch exhibition Professional visitors only Wanderers Club, Illovo Johannesburg, South Africa

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G R A N D PR I X D’ H O R LO G E R I E D E GENÈVE

The Oscars of watchmaking: GPHG 2023 winners revealed

On 9 November, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) – one of the most anticipated events on the global watchmaking calendar, akin to the Oscars in the film industry – took place.

THE 850 MEMBERS OF THE GPHG ACADEMY rendered their verdict earlier this year. Using digital means and under notarial supervision, they nominated 90 timepieces. These 84 watches and six clocks were in the running to win one of the 20 prizes at the 23rd edition of the GPHG, including the prestigious “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix best-in-show award.

Aimed at highlighting and annually rewarding the most remarkable contemporary creations, the GPHG promotes the art of watchmaking all over the world. The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie competition awards a watch in each of the 20 official categories in which the various timepieces compete.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

G R A N D PR I X D’ H O R LO G E R I E D E GENÈVE

Each year, a series of exhibitions brings together the nominated watches prior to the awards ceremony – followed by showings of the competition winners – for an international audience of enthusiasts and connoisseurs.

Organised in collaboration with local partners, these exhibitions contribute to the promotion of watchmaking culture around the world, while also offering talks, discussions and workshops, among other public and private events.

The 84 watches shortlisted this year by the academy were exhibited in Macao on 25-26 September; then in Hong Kong from 28 September-1 October, as part of the new Timeless Watch Week; in Kuala Lumpur from 4-8 October, in partnership with The Hour Glass; in New York from 18-22 October with Watches of Switzerland; and in Geneva from 25 October-12 November at the Musée Rath, in partnership with the Musée d’Art et

d’Histoire. Alongside the 90 GPHG nominated timepieces, the museum presented a foray into the origins of watchmaking through the Hand & Tool exhibition. Visitors were able to take part in guided tours, talks, games and introductory watchmaking workshops.

The 23rd GPHG awards ceremony was held on 9 November 2023 at the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva. The prize-winners were determined by the 30-person jury who met behind closed doors a few days prior to the ceremony, along with a second vote by the academy.

After the ceremony, the winning timepieces were presented from 15-20 November 2023 as part of Dubai Watch Week.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

47

G R A N D PR I X D’ H O R LO G E R I E D E GENÈVE

The following were all the GPHG winners of 2023: • “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle RD # The Aiguille d’Or, essentially the GPHG’s best-in-show across categories. This year, it went to Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 Universelle RD #4. It has 23 complications, including a Grand Sonnerie Supersonnerie, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, a split-second flyback chronograph and a flying tourbillon.

• Innovation: Hautlence, Sphere Series 1.

• Audacity: Maison Alcée, Persée Azur.

• Chronometry: Ferdinand Berthoud, Chronomètre FB 3SPC. • “Horological Revelation”: Simon Brette, Chronomètre Artisans.

• Ladies’: Piaget Hidden Treasures.

• Ladies’ Complication: Dior Grand Soir Automate Étoile de Monsieur Dior.

• Men’s: Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans.

• Men’s Complication: Voutilainen World Timer.

• Iconic: Ulysse Nardin Freak One. • Chronograph: Petermann Bédat Chronograph Rattrapante.

• Sports: Tudor Pelagos 39.

• Challenge: Raymond Weil Millésime Automatic.

Other winners: • Artistic Crafts: Piaget Altiplano Métiers d’Art – Undulata.

• Jewellery: Serpenti Cleopatra.

• Calendar & Astronomy: Bovet 1822 Récital 20 Astérium.

• Tourbillon: Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon.

• Mechanical Exception: Hautulence Sphere Series .1 • Mechanical Clock: L’Epée 1839 Time Fast II Chrome.

• Best Young Student: Killian Douglas.

Aimed at highlighting and annually rewarding the most remarkable contemporary creations, the GPHG promotes the art of watchmaking all over the world.

48

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - DECEMBER 2023 / JANUARY 2024

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