SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • April 2019

R36,00 (incl VAT)

Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal

Jewellery News APRIL 2019

SA

PPC 2019

The contemporary jewel as never seen before Five major mistakes independent retailers should avoid Making a material difference

E BIZ-N y r e l ewel

WS

j

B I- A N

NUA

L D IR

jewel

lery B

D | J U LYRY ECTO B I- A

ECEM

NNU

BER

IZ-NE

WS

2 0 19

AL D IR E

CTO

RY | JA N U

A R Y-

JUN

E 20 19

JULY- DECEMBER 2019

BOOKINGS NOW OPEN TO A DV E R T ISE CO N TAC T I A N TEL: 011 883 4627 • E-MAIL: ian@isikhova.co.za

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za

c ntents 8. NEWS

Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com

• JCSA roadshows 2019 to be held in June • Jewellery statistics South Africa

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk

• SSEF launches service linking cut stones to rough stones from which they originated using gemmological techniques

Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

• Petra unearths 101ct rough at Cullinan

Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

• B.Y.L Diamonds launches new website

18. INDUSTRY REPORT

• Stuller International Director hosts talks in South Africa

JCSA consults with legal counsel over implementation of 2018 Mining Charter

• South African Mint’s heart transplant commemorative coin wins Best Contemporary Event Coin

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

• Local jewellery dealers and the Financial Intelligence Centre

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

20. ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019: AROUND THE WORLD IN 500 CONTEMPORARY JEWELS The contemporary jewel as never seen before

Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

25. BRAND MANAGEMENT • Franck Muller’s Vanguard Crazy Hours Lady

Printing: Typo

• US$15,5 million crown for sale on RapNet

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

• Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 • For the young and the young at heart

15. JEWELLERY DESIGN Jewellery Council of

South Africa

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa.

Websites: www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

6

Introducing Monastery, the artisanal jewellery brand of local designer Ashleigh McCulloch

17. RETAILING Five major mistakes independent retailers should avoid

R36,00 (incl VAT)

28. LITTLE GEMS Making a material difference

Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal

Jewellery News APRIL 2019

SA

PPC 2019

On the cover PPC Imaginarium is one of the country’s most supportive art and design competitions aimed at emerging creatives. For more information, visit the website:

The contemporary jewel as never seen before Five major mistakes independent retailers should avoid

www.ppcimaginarium.co.za.

Making a material difference

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2019

NEWS

B.Y.L DIAMONDS LAUNCHES NEW WEBSITE Leading local diamond and jewellery wholesaler B.Y.L Diamonds has launched its new website. Visitors who are signed up to it will be able to view all stock on hand, including loose diamonds, loose tanzanites, calibrated smalls and B.Y.L’s wide range of jewellery collections. “The site is also designed to be extremely user-friendly, allowing visitors

to view stock swiftly and with ease,” says Omri Yedid Levi, the company’s CEO. In addition, the website allows agent mode to be disabled, so that visitors can show their clients products without the latter seeing any logos. “This makes it easier to sell the perfect piece,” explains Yedid Levi. Signed-up visitors will automatically become members of B.Y.L Diamonds’ loyalty programme, which gives clients a percentage back on all their diamond, tanzanite and jewellery purchases.

Visitors to the website can also view B.Y.L’s special deals on its diamond and jewellery inventory at any time. Moreover, they can search for the exact specifications/UPID code when they want to see what B.Y.L has available and can download all the updated stock lists whenever they wish.

“These are only a few of the features the new website has to offer,” says Yedid-Levi.

“Should anyone have trouble navigating it, a B.Y.L sales representative will gladly call on them to instruct them fully on how it works.

We also have a tutorial video to give our clients.

“The website was created to make our inventory more accessible to our valued clients and keep them up to date with it. We’re positive that this innovative way of working will help us all move forward together,” he adds.

• To sign up to the website, visit: www. byldiamonds.com.

SSEF LAUNCHES SERVICE LINKING CUT STONES TO ORIGINAL ROUGH STONES The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF has announced the launch of GemTrack, a new service providing expert scientific opinion linking a cut gemstone to the rough stone from which it originated, thus enabling gemmologically the documentation of part of the stone's journey from mine to market.

The GemTrack service involves the combination of crystallographic, structural, chemical and microscopic analyses, which allow for detailed and potentially unique characterisation and fingerprinting of a rough stone. These

same features can later be identified during the investigation of a resultant cut stone, following the cutting and polishing process, and documented on a GemTrack report.

A GemTrack document may also be issued if a gem is later mounted in jewellery, in order to document the stone all the way from the rough state to an item of jewellery.

A GemTrack report will not make any specific claims of mine of origin. However, when credible documentation is pro-

vided (such as transparent sales receipts from a rough auction), it may state that, based on such documentation, a gemstone was sourced from a specific company or auction.

“Given the growing demand for provenance and traceability in our industry, we felt that SSEF could provide a truly independent gemmological documentation for a gem on its journey from the rough to cut state, and even to its being set in jewellery,” says Dr Michael S Krzemnicki, Director of SSEF.

SA MINT WINS BEST CONTEMPORARY EVENT COIN The SA Mint, a wholly-owned subsidiary of the SA Reserve Bank (SARB), wowed the jury in Berlin, scooping the top honours in the Best Contemporary Event category at the 2019 Krause Publications’ Coin of the Year (COTY) awards. The SA Mint won the accolade for its R2 Crown coin depicting the world’s first successful human-to-human heart transplant, performed in 1967 by Prof Christiaan Barnard at Groote Schuur Hospital in Cape Town.

The R2 Crown coin in sterling silver is the second release in the South African Inventions coin programme following “the dolos” and marks the 50th anniversary of the historic event. Introduced in 2016, the series seeks to

8

showcase local innovations that have captured the world’s imagination.

The Best Contemporary Event category recognises coins which commemorate events, institutions, physical entities or individuals deemed to be most important in influencing mankind. Five decades since the groundbreaking surgery, approximately 4 000 people undergo heart transplants each year.

Instituted by Wisconsin-based Krause Publications, the Coin of the Year Award honours the accomplishments of mints from around the world in numismatic design, artistic vision, craftsmanship and marketing efforts. A panel of international judges choose

the coins from those issued two years prior to the year of the award.

Awards are given in 10 categories and three coins are selected in each category.

Besides the Best Contemporary Event, popular categories include Best Gold, Best Circulation Coin, Most Artistic Coin and the coveted overall Coin of the Year.

No stranger to the accolade, the SA Mint has previously won the Best Gold Coin (2009) for the 1 oz (R100) Natura featuring the “White Rhino Safari Through Africa”, as well as the coveted Coin of the Year (2012) for the 1/2 oz (R5O) Natura featuring “Nature’s Family – the Meerkat”.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2019

NEWS

SIMPLIFIED GUIDE TO RESPONSIBLE PRACTICES IN PEARLS, COLOURED STONES, DIAMONDS AND CORAL TRADES RELEASED CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has released a simplified guide to ethical and responsible practices in the handling and trading of diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls and coral, and has made it available for downloading in PDF format from the CIBJO website, in multiple languages, free of charge.

The document, depending on the language in which it is downloaded, provides easy-to-understand guidelines for industry professionals concerning the disclosure and description of natural and treated gem materials, synthetics and other artificial products, as well as recommendations about information that should be requested from suppliers.

The document is intended to support jewellery business-owners and professional staff, but it is not intended to replace CIBJO’s Blue Books, which are comprehensive guides

of standards, practices and nomenclature for diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls, coral, precious metals, gemmological laboratories and responsible sourcing, nor in any way supersede national legislation or regulations, or internationally approved protocols.

“The Do’s & Don’ts Guide is intended to serve as a quick and simple reference for industry professionals, to ensure that responsible practices are being applied,” explains Roland Naftule, President of CIBJO’s Sector A, which covers all gem materials and was responsible, along with the help and support of his Vice-Presidents, for producing the document. “We encourage all members of the industry to become familiar with the various Blue Books, but we appreciate that on the spur of the moment they can be overwhelming in terms of size and complexity. For that reason,

we produced this more concise and easily-read guide, with the goal of promoting consumer confidence through ethical trade.”

“Consumer confidence is the bedrock of the jewellery business and to maintain and enhance this, it is critical that responsible practices be applied by all participants at every stage of the chain of distribution,” says CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri. “Our new Do’s & Don’ts Guide is designed to support this objective.”

The guide can currently be downloaded in English, Arabic, Dutch, French, Hebrew, Italian and Portuguese.

Additional language versions are currently being prepared and will be added to the website as soon as they become available.

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

NEWS

JEWELLERY STATISTICS SOUTH AFRICA SA Jewellery News (SAJN), as the leading business-to-business publication serving the diamond and jewellery industry in southern Africa,conducts a monthly survey among retailers, manufacturers, wholesalers and diamond traders, with results published on a monthly basis in the magazine.

The aim of the survey is to gain insight into

what is happening in the industry, as no other statistical information is available.

Members of the industry are invited to participate for at least a 12-month period in order to make the information as accurate as possible. There are no actual figures, only an indication of percentage increase or decrease.

LOCAL JEWELLERY DEALERS AND THE FIC According to Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA, the council has had several enquiries regarding the Financial Intelligence Centre (FIC) recently. “We contacted the FIC and received the following information from them,” says Lloyd.

At present, jewellery dealers are not required to register with the FIC as an accountable institution [AI] or a reporting institution [RI]. However, should the jewellery dealer buy or sell Kruger Rands, they will be required to register as a RI with the FIC and will need to report cash transactions pertaining to Kruger Rands to the FIC. Should an institution (which is not considered an AI or RI) come across a transaction which involves an element of suspicion, that

PETRA UNEARTHS 101CT ROUGH AT CULLINAN Petra Diamonds recovered two gem-quality rough stones from its Cullinan mine in SA in March. The 100,83ct D-colour type II stone and another 6,12ct blue type II diamond were included in the company’s tender in March.

institution may submit a Suspicious Transaction Report or a Suspicious Activity Report.

All relevant guidance and registration, as well as reporting manuals, have been published on the centre’s website at: www.fic.gov.za.

Members of the JCSA who require further information or assistance in this regard can contact the council on tel: (011) 484-5528.

The FIC is SA’s national centre for the receipt of financial data, analysis and dissemination of financial intelligence to the competent authorities. It was established by the Financial Intelligence Centre Act, 2001 (Act 38 of 2001) and has the mandate to identify the proceeds of crime and combat money-laundering and terror financing.

Petra’s stock price rose 6% on the day of the announcement.

The company’s share performance has been suffering partly due to sluggish prices at Cullinan, with the stock price down about 50% since a year ago. In February this year, Juan Kemp, General Manager of Cullinan, told Reuters that he lay awake at night wondering when the mine would yield its next big stone. – Rapaport

PLATAFRICA JEWELLERY DESIGN COMPETITION REVEALS THEME FOR 2019 Anglo American Platinum, in association with Metal Concentrators and Platinum Guild International (PGI) India, once again presents the PlatAfrica 2019 jewellery design and manufacture competition. The competition is open to students, apprentices and professional jewellers in South Africa. The competition allows both students and professionals the opportunity to work with precious platinum metal and provides detailed feedback, enabling the development of jewellery design and manufacturing skills.

The theme for the 2019 competition is

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2019

“Your Love Has Gone Platinum”.

“When a couple discovers they have found their soulmate, the one who truly understands and accept them for who they are, it’s a discovery they’ll cherish for a lifetime,” explain the competition organisers. “Finding such a soulmate is indeed very rare, but for those who do, it’s the beginning of an extraordinary love story that belongs to only the two of them.”

This year, the target consumer is 20-40 years of age, male or female.

For more information or an entry form, contact: juno@junocorp.co.za.

Participants will be contacted monthly by email/WhatsApp and will be required to answer only three questions. All information is treated as strictly confidential.

Those interested in participating can send an e-mail to: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za with “Business Barometer” in the subject line.

STULLER INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR HOSTS TALKS IN SA Xavier Rofes, International Director of Stuller Inc, hosted talks in Johannesburg and Cape Town on the digital jewellery experience, how to attract the new-age digital client by integrating digital design, 3D output methods in the retail environment and incorporating Stuller Showcase on one’s website. Rofes also discussed Stuller product ranges and quality standards, as well as how to sell with a powerful sales presentation using CounterSketch and MatrixGold and the ease of printing models for the client to fit.

“We’re extremely excited that jewellers had the opportunity to find out more about Stuller software and jewellery products,” says Eve Scholtz of Digital Wax. During 2018, Digital Wax partnered with Stuller to launch its products locally.

JCSA ROADSHOWS 2019 TO BE HELD IN JUNE The Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) has released the dates for its 2019 annual roadshows. They will take place in the following regions during June: • 11 June: Durban • 12 June: Port Elizabeth • 13 June: Cape Town • 20 June: Johannesburg • 27 June: Pretoria The topics that will be addressed include legislation and the Mining Charter, recommended disclaimers, laboratory-grown diamond and retail jewellery shows. Industry players have also been invited to e-mail topic suggestions to: elsad@ jewellery.org.za.

The venues and times will be announced closer to the time. The roadshows are open to all JCSA members, as well as non-members.

11

MARKETS

Business barometer FEBRUARY 2019 VS FEBRUARY 2018

A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.

DIAMOND DEALERS

RETAILERS

WHOLESALERS General sales compared with last year this time

Best-selling diamond size

0% BETTER

100% % SAME

0% WORSE

Foot traffic

100% BETTER

100% BETTER

0%

0%

% SAME

% SAME

0% WORSE

General sales compared with last year this time

0% WORSE

Watch sales

100% BETTER

0,5ct

0% % SAME

General sales compared with last year this time

0% WORSE

0% BETTER

Breakdown of retail sales

0% % SAME

100% WORSE

bridal

fine jewellery

watches

17%

74%

9%

MANUFACTURERS

17% BETTER

17% % SAME

66%

(Above): Year-on-year statistics for the jewellery industry reflecting armed robberies, burglaries, armed night robberies and smash-and-grab incidents. – All information supplied by the Consumer Goods Council

12

0%

33,3%

BETTER

BETTER

33,3%

83% % SAME

% SAME

17%

33,3%

WORSE

WORSE

Consumption of gold compared with last year this time

Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time

WORSE

Consumption of silver compared with last year this time

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2019

SUBSCRIBE NOW!

The industry's only trade journalR36,00 (incl

R36,00 (incl VAT)

VAT)

Jewellery News Jewelle ry New ews N y r e ll s e w Je SEPTEMBER 2017

al trade journ

try's only The indus

SA

SA

R36,00 (incl

The indu stry's only

AUGUST 2017

VAT)

trade jour nal

OCTOBE R 2017

SA

Jewellex: showcasing Africa’s best

Display: your most powerful marketing tool The art of storytelling Swiss watch industry searches for meaning

Jewelle x 2017 Bu Africa yer’s Gu ide Vintage a reflec jewels: tion of history Industry held at forum Kong W Hong & Cloc atch k Fair

: a face Marketing nd behind a bra the Evolution of pilot’s watch

r niche?

What’s you

SA Jewellery News is the official journal of the diamond and jewellery industry in South Africa.

Published monthly, this publication brings you scintillating news on current international and local affairs.

4 EASY WAYS TO SUBSCRIBE

Advertise with the widest-reaching media platform in the industry

•

Email: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za

•

Go to: www.isikhova.co.za/Forms/ SA_Jewellery_News_Subscribe.html

•

SMS: SUBSCRIBE and your name to 083 268 6153 and we’ll call you

•

Fill in the form below and with your proof of payment, fax it back to +27 (011) 783 2677 or email to subscriptions@isikhova.co.za (see banking details below)

SUBSCRIPTION SOUTH AFRICA: R384.00 (12 issues) including VAT and postage INTERNATIONAL SUBSCRIPTION: US$ 230.00 (12 issues) plus US$ 5.50 international banking clearance fee.

NAME: ......................................................................................................

COMPANY: ...............................................................................................

CAPASITY: ................................................................................................

POSTAL ADDRESS: ................................................................................. ................................................................................................................... .................................................... CODE: ..................................................

TEL: ............................................ FAX: ......................................................

MOBILE: ...................................................................................................

TO SUBSCRIBE:

E-MAIL: .....................................................................................................

Email subscriptions@isikhova.co.za and put “Subscribe Biz-News” in the subject line.

TO ADVERTISE: Contact Ian on ian@isikhova.co.za or Trivern on trivern@isikhova.co.za.

BANKING DETAILS: Account name: Isikhova Publishing & Communications cc BANK: Standard Bank

|

BRANCH CODE: 01-92-05

BRANCH: Sandton South Africa |

ACCOUNT NO: 4209 6822 9

TYPE ACCOUNT: Current | SWIFT NO: SBZAZAJJ (International transfers)

JEWELLERY DESIGN

After studying jewellery and fashion in Florence, rising young artisan Ashleigh McCulloch has launched her own designer brand of jewellery that not only straddles the continental divide between Italy and her native SA, but also toggles between art and accessory.

McCULLOCH IS MAKING A NAME FOR herself, with her handcrafted pieces being sold in upscale galleries and artisanal stores anywhere from Florence to Fresnaye – and online. She divides her time between Cape Town, Johannesburg and Italy.

Her decision to keep one foot on the ground in the city of Michelangelo’s David is tied to the thriving artisanal jewellery culture that exists there and the ease with which this context enables her to meet the technical and aesthetic demands of producing her sculptural pieces. Her distinctive jewellery is wrought in a signature language that defies both the commercial and the commonplace. She became a metalsmith because she could never find the kind of jewellery she wanted to wear, so she resorted to making it herself. “Jewellery is my channel of expression,” she says.

The 27-year-old designer has called her brand Monastery as a homage to ancient spirituality – but her pieces are far from monastic.

Monastery magic: the artisanal jewellery brand of local designer Ashleigh McCulloch Other concerns in her work include nature and its influence on the metalsmithing process, as well as the centuries-old esoteric and philosophical tradition of hermeticism.

Monastery jewellery items “are intended to be mythic, raw heirlooms crafted with slow, meticulous care”, says McCulloch. This is evident in the raw power of her pieces, which – while exuding contemporary appeal – seem to carry the weight and wisdom of antiquity.

McCulloch smiths in silver, gold and bronze and occasionally incorporates beadwork. She often upcycles precious metals by reworking found pieces. She crafts an assortment of neckpieces, necklaces, pendants, earrings, bracelets and rings which are all thematically linked, sug-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2019

gesting an almost meditative contemplation of the ages. Her work has the characteristic of appearing intentionally unfinished, as if reflecting a pure or raw state.

“When I make jewellery, I let the materials behave as they are and as they choose. I’m not interested in making controlled objects – only in intervening enough to guide the flow of molten silver in a general direction,” she explains.

The result is a range of potent and beautiful statement pieces that will defy time and trends, remaining infinitely wearable.

• Monastery pieces are available online, as well as from Bjørk Gallery in Florence and Haas in Cape Town, among others.

15

F O R O N LY

R100 I N C LU D E S VA P O S TA G E T, & PA C K I N G !

Alice Weil A SPECIAL GIFT

My Notebook & Camera, launched at this year’s Jewellex Africa, is the fascinating biography of Alice Weil, an icon in the watch and jewellery industry (both locally and internationally) who has devoted over 30 years of her life to the industry after retiring from a career in the corporate sector.

Alice, who will be celebrating her 100th birthday in March, was born in Cape Town. She worked for Engelhard Industries as a Junior Executive – a company which dealt in precious metals (gold and platinum), as well as forestry and plastics – and remained with them for 10 years. She then started writing short articles for SABC Radio’s Short Stories from Near and Far. With encouragement from her family, Alice accepted a writing position with SA Jewellery News (then known as Diamond News & SA Jeweller) in 1986 at the age of 67.

Alice travelled internationally for many years to report on the latest news and developments in the jewellery and watch industries. Her monthly column, Little Gems, is also a favourite read in the magazine and delves into the exotic, exciting and glamorous world of jewellery, watches and gemstones.

Alice’s biography is a fascinating read and would make a great gift this holiday season.

PLACE YOUR ORDER Please complete below and send with proof of payment to Thuli Majola at fax: (011) 783-2677 or email: thuli@isikhova.co.za Name: ..............................................................................

Surname: .........................................................................

E-mail: .............................................................................

Telephone number: ........................................................

Postal address: ................................................................ ......................................................................................... ......................................................................................... .........................................................................................

No. of books purchased: ................................................

BANKING DETAILS: Isikhova Publishing Standard Bank Sandton • Branch code: 01 92 05 Acc number: 420 968 229 • Type of acc: Current Orders will only be dispatched once money reflects in the Isikhova Publishing account.

RETAILING

Five major mistakes independent retailers should avoid In today’s fast-moving and ever-changing business environment, mistakes can be fatal. Vend, SA’s leading cloud-based point-of-sale system, has found these five to be the most frequent.

THERE IS A LOT TO BE SAID FOR BEING AN independent retailer in SA at the moment.

When your business is small, local and bespoke, you are able to roll with the economic punches.

You are agile, flexible and can adapt to absorb the impact of upheavals like a technical recession or a sudden shift in trends. However, as a small fish in a big pond, you also need to have your wits about you.

Whether you run a jewellery store, a madeto-measure fashion boutique, a sports and outdoor enterprise, a food and drink outlet, a health and beauty destination, a shoe store or a bike shop, there are certain prevailing principles that apply to the successful management of an independent retail environment. The retail and inventory management experts from Vend have pin-pointed five major mistakes small retailers should avoid:

Relying on a cumbersome old-school system Your retail management system is the core of your business. If you are relying on a cumbersome, old-school system that requires manual entries or will not work when the Internet is down, you are setting yourself up for failure. What you need is cloud-based POS software that allows you to sign in anytime and work from anywhere, giving you access to your sales, products and reports even when you are not behind the counter or in the office. Ideally, this system should feature

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2019

advanced tools – like inventory management and customer loyalty programs – which are simple enough for your entire team to use across iPad, Mac or PC. Not being able to report quickly and efficiently When you are dealing with shareholders and investors who have a stake in your business, you need to respond quickly and efficiently to a request for an update on their investment. Choose an intuitive system that provides you with a wide variety of retail insights, so that you can always be on top of your game. That way, you will be able to go into as much detail and depth about certain facets of the business as your shareholders require. obvious shift in the preferences of your target demographic, you are pretty much dead in the water. A major part of the appeal of owning and managing an independent retail environment in SA at the moment is shorter forward-planning models that allow for quicker adaptation to trend shifts. Use this to your advantage!

Ignoring the unique spatial needs of your customers If you want your bricks-andmortar store to earn its keep, your space and retail attendants should appeal to the needs of potential customers. There is no one-sizefits-all approach in this regard – it all depends on the nature of your product and the personalities of your target demographic. This is where prior planning comes in. Know your customers inside out before you even as much as choose a location for your store. Then ensure that the ambience you create within your space speaks their stylistic language from the moment they set foot in the door and train your attendants to provide seamless assistance from start to finish.

Not riding that all-important trend wave If you prefer to ignore trends and stick to your guns, despite an

Not playing where your buyers play Did you know that some South African businesses generate up to 80% of their online sales directly from Instagram? That means you need to know where your target demographic hangs out online.

Will they respond to a Facebook carousel, or would you get better traction with local influencer campaigns? Find out where they hang out and how they like to interact with their favourite brands; then ensure they are able to find yours without having to venture out of their comfort zone.

By sidestepping these pitfalls, you will be laying the groundwork for a nimble retail environment that allows you to think on your feet and stay relevant in a time of unprecedented change and development. Get it done and do it properly so that you can put your creative energy to good use in other aspects of your burgeoning business.

17

INDUSTRY REPORT

JCSA consults with legal counsel over implementation of 2018 Mining Charter The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) is consulting with legal counsel and is deliberating with its board over taking legal action against the Department of Mineral Resources.

THE JCSA, ON BEHALF OF ITS MEMBERS, IS consulting with legal counsel and deliberating with its board over taking legal action against the Department of Mineral Resources (DMR) on the relevance of the application of the Mining Charter to the jewellery manufacturing industry. Legal counsel is of the opinion that the South African Diamond and Precious Metals Regulator (SADPMR) is erroneously applying the provisions in the Precious Metals Act (PMR) and the 2018 Mining Charter.

This was based on the unsuccessful consultative process between the JCSA and the Department of Mineral Resources in the drafting of amendments and the implementation guidelines to the 2018 Mining Charter, and the discovery of the intended application thereof.

On 20 February the JCSA met with the SADPMR. In a presentation, the impracticality from a cost viewpoint (ie tax, legal and setup costs of applying the charter requirements to small and medium-sized businesses) was presented. The JCSA referred, in broad strokes,

as an example, to businesses with a turnover of R1 million-R15 million and what the size and structure of a business in that range would and would not be capable of.

The JCSA reiterated the importance of being measured in metal consumption, rather than rand value, as this value is influenced by many factors, ie rand/dollar exchange rate and precious metals price. Precious metal consumption figures will always be the most accurate indicators of a manufacturing concern’s size and capacity, especially of employment.

After the presentation, the SADPMR went into a workshop internally to formalise the structures of the guidelines it will be applying to the industry. Its first presentation of this was to the board of the SADPMR on 26 February.

Since meeting with the Regulator on 20 February, there has been no further clarification to industry on the application of internal processes of licence applications.

On 13 March, at a JCSA board meeting, a recommendation was tabled from legal counsel

to hold a workshop for all affected manufacturing jewellers, hosted by Africa’s largest law firm, Edward Nathan Sonnenbergs (ENS). During this workshop, ENS will inform members of legal recourse and remedy, and discuss potential challenges in complying with a charter not designed for a manufacturing industry.

Following the above, the option forward will be to legally challenge the terminology in the Precious Metals Act and the Mining Charter, “… the South African Diamond & Precious Metals Regulator (SADPMR) to have regard to the requirements…”, which suggests that it is a recommendation and not an enforceable requirement.

“The JCSA and its board remain committed to encouraging dialogue with stakeholders to promote a sustainable way of achieving the goals of SA’s transformation policy,” says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the JCSA.

The option forward will be to legally challenge the terminology in the Precious Metals Act and the Mining Charter, “… the South African Diamond & Precious Metals Regulator (SADPMR) to have regard to the requirements…”, which suggests that it is a recommendation and not an enforceable requirement.

18

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2019

Suite 313 – Third Floor 5 Sturdee Avenue, Johannesburg Contact details OďŹƒce: 011 023 6516 Cell: 0649541204 / 082 707 8676 info@afrasiandiamonds.co.za www.afrasiandiamonds.co.za

ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019: AROUND THE WORLD IN 500 CONTEMPORARY JEWELS

The contemporary jewel as never seen before Now in its sixth edition, Artistar Jewels – the international event dedicated to body ornaments – was held for the first time at Palazzo Bovara in Corso di Porta Venezia in Milan from 19-24 February 2019. The entire building was dedicated exclusively to the event, with over 700 m2 of exhibition space.

ARTISTAR JEWELS WAS AN OPPORTUNITY TO admire the beauty of contemporary jewellery in 500 sculptural ornaments. The pieces were ironic, sometimes on the verge of wearability, inserted in an experiential path divided into themes: avant-garde, innovation, precious and recycling. The creations on show were of the highest artistic and technical standard, most of them created for the project and never shown before. The exhibition, under the patronage of the City of Milan – which has supported the event for three years – was open, with free admission during Fashion Week. It was also supported by CNA Federmoda, which constitutes the national and unitary system of representation of the Italian company.

The 2019 edition marked the first time agreements with galleries outside Europe (Bini Gallery in Australia, Ame Gallery in Hong Kong and Alice Floriano in Brazil) were made. Each of the 14 galleries involved in the project represented a reference point in the contemporary jewellery field and offered the public an eclectic mix of collections made with ancient and modern techniques.

Some directors were in Italy to attend the event and personally chose the works to be displayed. “Artistar Jewels is a growing project, with new partners in Italy and beyond Europe, where we’re working a lot,” says the exhibition’s founder, Enzo Carbone. “The public attention to contemporary jewellery and artistic manufacture is growing significantly in our country and we strongly believe in it. We’re investing not only to spread the culture of this sector, but also to respond to what the (Above): Artistar press tour 2019.

(Left): Sowon Joo's Heart necklace.

designers really want: international visibility and commercial opportunities.”

The exhibition included the creations of three internationally recognised protagonists of the art and contemporary jewellery worlds: Italian-born Turi Simeti, known for his 1960s outbursts; German-born Ute Decker, sculpture jewellery author who works in London and counts among her clients Zaha Hadid (for her creations, she uses 100% recycled gold and silver and, with Fairtrade certification, is one of the first supporters of ethical jewellery) and French artist and designer Christophe Burger, from whose impressive structure geometric jewels were displayed.

The 2019 edition marked the first time agre galleries outside Europe (Bini Gallery in Australi in Hong Kong and Alice Floriano in Brazil) were m 14 galleries involved in the project represented a r the contemporary jewellery field and offered the of collections made with ancient and modern te 20

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2019

ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019: AROUND THE WORLD IN 500 CONTEMPORARY JEWELS

el

me agreements with ustralia, Ame Gallery were made. Each of the ted a reference point in ed the public an eclectic mix dern techniques.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2019

From the more than 400 applications received from all over the world, the scientific committee of Artistar Jewels selected 140 artists. The assessment criteria included high artistic value, technical experimentation, design, stylistic research, personal interpretation of traditional techniques, originality of themes and technological innovation. Artistar Jewels is known for offering original takes on contemporary trends in jewellery and encouraging freedom of expression in its exhibiting artists, so visitors get real insights into cutting-edge, imaginative skills.

The techniques employed include lost wax, laser-cutting, filigree, handfinishing and, increasingly, 3D printing. The themes at this year’s event included the animal world, the human body and social networking. Gold, silver, titanium, leather, fabric, polymers, diamonds, quartzes, meteorites, lichens and nanosital were among the materials chosen, with strong, refined combinations.

The aim of the event is not to regulate, but to enhance the uniqueness and aesthetic of each creation, arousing in viewers a sense of curiosity and awe. The pieces which were presented went beyond the decorative, exploring the thoughts and feelings of the wearer.

The stories of the artists were related in the book Artistar Jewels 2019, 2019 which included images of the jewels curated entirely by the event’s team.

Published by Logo Fausto Lupetti, it will be available in bookshops around the world and will also be sent to 5 000 professionals, including buyers, concept stores, journalists, stakeholders and jewellery galleries.

The jury of the contest comprised Elisabetta Barracchia, Director of Vogue Vanity Fair Accessory, Maristella Campi, fashion and costume journalist, Gianni De Liguoro, Founding Partner and stylist of the famous De Liguoro brand, Ivan Perini Fine Jewelry &

Consultancy, Irina Slesareva, Director of Jewelery Review magazine and Creative Director of the Russian Line Jewelery Contest, Luca Solari, founder and owner of the Scuola Orafa Ambrosiana and Director of the Via Tadino 30 Milano school, Guido Solari, Director of the Via Tortona 26 Milan school and Director of the SOA laboratory and factory of Via Savona 20 Milano and Liza Urla, top jewellery blogger and founder of Gemologue. Each of them selected an award of recognition to the artist they felt most deserved it.

The winners were announced on 22 February. The three winners of the Artistar Jewels Award were Sowon Joo, Veronika Kuryanova and Bia Tambelli.

Korean designer Sowon Joo, a graduate of Seoul National University, has worked in the jewellery and sculpture fields for over 20 years.

Her most appreciated piece at the event was a large, heart-shaped, crocheted gold sculptured necklace with a rutilated quartz pendant in the centre.

Russian-born Veronika Kuryanova graduated from the Moscow State Stroganov Academy of Design & Applied Arts and holds a Master’s degree from the MIREA Russian Technological University. She presented bold bronze and enamel rings with bright, vital colours.

Bia Tambelli, a young designer of Italian heritage, was born and raised in Brazil, a country rich in precious stones. For Artistar, she presented geometric and refined pieces from the Trinity collection in gold, diamonds and rock crystal which expressed the spiritual connection between God, the cosmos and man.

A special mention was also awarded to New York-born and bred artist Nita Angeletti, also of Italian heritage, who began her career as a Broadway actress, but then devoted herself full-time to creating figurines of fabric.

She displayed accessories reflecting her concept of “wearable art”, characterised by playful, colourful material, pictorial elements and touches of humour.

(Above, from top): Denis Sozin's glass necklace; Lindsey Fontijn's Icon II ring and Denis Sozin's ring.

21

DID YOU KNOW?

Interesting facts 1

2

Black diamonds do not shine in the traditional sense. They actually absorb light instead of reflecting it, meaning their beauty comes from their surface, which is polished like marble.

According to myth, about £2 million in buried gold and diamonds lie hidden in the Blyde River area in the province of Mpumalanga. The treasure is said to consist of hidden gold and coins worth more than US$500 000 000 in today’s terms.

5

4

The Florentine Diamond is a nine-sided 126-facet double rose-cut stone. It has been lost since 1919 and, despite once being sold for around Fr2, it would be worth in excess of $20 million if it appeared at auction today.

7

The Art Deco tiara Meghan Markle wore on her wedding day comprised 11 openwork sections, pierced and set with diamonds throughout. It has been said that she personally picked the piece after meeting with the Queen to view the extensive royal collection.

8

Almost all gems are minerals, but only a few minerals are gems.

To be a gem, a mineral must be beautiful, rare and durable. When a gem is rare, it is hard to find.

The fundamental techniques of enamel are cloisonné, champlevé and painted enamel. Cloisonné is one of the most time-consuming, as before metal is applied to the enamel, thin metal strips must be soldered onto the edge.

3

It is the diamond powder that physically cuts the diamond, not the copper blade.

The reason for this is that diamonds are the hardest known mineral to man, and only a diamond can cut another diamond.

6

Of the 65 known Fabergé eggs, 57 have survived to the present day.

Of the 50 known imperial eggs, 43 have survived and there are photographs of three of the seven lost eggs.

9

NASA researchers have detected large numbers of nanodiamonds in some meteorites. (Nanodiamonds are diamonds that are a few nanometers – billionths of a metre in diameter.)

• For your weekly dose of interesting industry-related facts, visit: www.facebook.com/pages/SAJN/508328912586722 and “like” the SAJN Facebook page.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2019

23

BRAND MANAGEMENT

New Swiss brand makes debut at Baselworld Menintime, a new Swiss watch brand created by award-winning designer Vincent Rouillard, makes its début with its Le Paon collection in the Les Ateliers section at Baselworld. The watch is being offered in 10 different references, with case and bracelet options of bead-blasted matte, satin-brushed or hand-polished surfaces in any combination, as well as eight dial layout options in a choice of nine different colours: silvered, champagne, champagne rosé, anthracite grey, blue, black, green, red and night blue, with a choice of eight dial layouts.

The three-part case of Le Paon (The Peacock) is neither completely round nor completely oval, but somewhere in between, measuring 38 mm x 37,3 mm.

The stainless steel case is perfectly integrated with the remarkable bracelet, composed of 94 pieces including 55 links, 30 pins and nine pieces for the triple-blade folding clasp.

The timepiece features an automatic mechanical ETA calibre 2895-2 movement with date corrector and stop-second device. It vibrates at 28 800 vibrations per hour and has a 42-hour power reserve.

Its case boasts a sapphire crystal front with a solid case-back designed to hide the interchangeable bracelet mechanism, laser-engraved with the brand emblem swan-dive and signature of the founder. It is water-resistant to 30 m.

For the young and young at heart In 2012, Something Special in Jewellery launched Miss Silver, an exclusive babies’ and children’s silver jewellery range, catering to the young and young at heart.

“After a successful six-year run, we decided to rebrand the range and upgraded the packaging and styling, which was re-launched at Jewellex 2018,” says Mark Hammerschlag of Something Special.

The Little Miss Silver baby range comes with bracelets, bangles and brooches, which can be engraved and given as gifts for birthdays, baptisms and other occasions (in designs catering for all major religions). The range also includes earrings for babies in adorable styles featur-

Franck Muller’s Vanguard Crazy Hours Lady Among this year's new models presented at the 29th WPHH exhibition is the Vanguard collection, to which Franck Muller adds a

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2019

ing ducks, birds, flowers, hearts and studs that come in plain silver or sparkling cubic zirconias.

Little Miss Silver also features pieces for tweens in more classic styles. These include hoop earrings, huggies, pendants and earrings.

“Since there’s no better way to warm a girl’s heart, Little Miss Silver also offers ID bracelets with the cutest enamelled or plain charms attached,” says Hammerschlag.

Each piece of Little Miss Silver Jewellery comes beautifully packaged on pink and white cards with the Little Miss Silver daisy logo in a protective sleeve. There is also a fun and colourful, tiered display case available which is guaranteed to be a standout in any store.

legendary and no less complex complication, the Crazy Hours, while dedicating it this year to female wrists.

Bold and expertly crafted, this timepiece displays numerals in an unconventional order, with an atypical Art Deco pop-art style.

Driven by a patented mechanism, the central hours hand jumps from one hour to the next, consistently following the correct sequence of numerals even though they are randomly placed on the dial.

This new and truly out-of-the-ordinary interpretation of time becomes a fascinating visual game.

Available in many different colours, the timepiece displays the jumping hours, minutes and seconds functions thanks to a self-winding mechanical movement, whose heart beats at a frequency of 28 800 vibrations per hour and offers a 40-hour power reserve. Enlivened by a movement structure composed of alternating concave and convex bridges, the tonneau-shaped case undeniably draws the eye in an appealing way. Graced with an 18ct pink gold case teamed with an alligator leather strap, this model lends an original touch to the wrist of its lucky owner.

25

BRAND MANAGEMENT

US$ 15,5 million crown for sale on RapNet Russian diamond manufacturer Kristall Smolensk is selling a replica of the Great Imperial Crown of the Russian Empire on RapNet’s new jewellery platform for $15,5 million.

The crown, which weighs 2,3 kg, comprises more than 11 000 round, oval and pearshaped white diamonds, weighing 1,928ct and set in white gold. The stones were sourced from Russian miner Alrosa, certified by the Gemological Institute of America, and cut and polished by Kristall. The piece also includes a pear-shaped, 384,71ct purple tourmaline and 74 round white pearls.

The Imperial Crown of Russia was the Russian monarchs’ main symbol of power from 1762-1917, a Kristall spokesperson told Rapaport News. The original, crafted for the coronation of Catherine the Great, was worn

by all Russian emperors from the Romanov family at ceremonial events.

Kristall decided to make an updated version of the imperial icon in 2012 to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty, the 250th anniversary of the crown and the 50th anniversary of the Russian diamond manufacturing trade.

“To commemorate the events, as well as to demonstrate the continuance of Russian jewellery art traditions, Smolensk artisans reproduced the key historic symbol of the Russian national identity,” Kristall said. “Our task wasn’t to achieve the iconic likeness of the original, but to show the way a historic piece of jewellery art can be recreated with the use of up-to-date technologies and designer techniques, as well as top-make polished diamonds.”

Since its début nine years ago, the crown has been on display in various Russian cities, including the State Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg and the State Historical Museum in Moscow. It has also been exhibited at museums and shows in the Netherlands, Belgium, Israel, Hong Kong and the USA, and has won several jewellery and art awards.

“This is a unique work of jewellery art,” Evgheni Gapanyuk, Chief Curator of the Diamond Fund of Russia, explained. “The word ‘replica’, which is widespread in the jewellery world, may hardly be appropriate in this case.”

Kristall Smolensk considered several channels for selling the crown, including museums, auction houses and private collectors, before settling on RapNet’s new jewellery platform, which launched in February this year. – Rapaport

Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 Zenith’s distinctive Pilot Type 20 watch, with its distinctive broad fluted crown, now has an extra glow with a bronze case.

The dial’s signature oversized luminescent numerals and cathedral-style hands stand out against a background of either black or matt blue. The aeronautically inspired font is composed of white Super-LumiNova blocks. The case-back reinforces the pilot’s theme with an engraving of the plane flown by Louis Blériot when he crossed the English Channel in 1909, wearing a Zenith, as well as the Zenith flight instrument logo and a motif inspired by the fuselage of Blériot’s aircraft.

The Lady MarieOlga watch This elegant jewellery watch

by Charriol is inspired by Marie-Olga Charriol, wife of the company founder and an accomplished equestrian.

Subtle details of the design are inspired by her passion for classical riding, which is linked to watchmaking by the same timeless values: rigour, purity,

26

At the heart of this 40 mm watch is the Zenith automatic Elite 679 calibre with a 50-hour power reserve, protected inside a robust case that is water-resistant to 10m.

Zenith is a brand that has been bringing style and substance to the wrists of watchmaking cognoscenti all over the world for more than 150 years. Founded in Le Locle in 1865 by visionary watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot, the Manufacture Zenith gained swift recognition for the precision of its chronometers, with which it has won 2 333 chronometry prizes in a century and a half of existence.

Having earned fame thanks to its

legendary El Primero calibre – an integrated automatic column-wheel chronograph movement launched in 1969 and endowed with a high frequency of 36 000 vibrations per hour that ensures short-time measurements accurate to the nearest 1/10th of a second – the Manufacture Zenith has since developed over 600 movement variations.

Zenith remains one of a select group of traditional luxury watch brands to produce all its movements in-house, the industry’s ultimate accolade of quality. Engaged in several vintage territories such as classic cars, Zenith currently offers a collection of exclusive and ageless, finely crafted timepieces designed for sartorially minded men and women. Zenith’s rich heritage, tradition, passion and pursuit of excellence reflect the legacy of its slogan: “Legends are forever”.

transmission and passion.

The silhouette of the watch reflects the gestures of the mounted rider, combining voltes and figures, movements performed by the horses.

The stirrup-shaped lug at 6 o’clock on the case also emphasises the equestrian theme.

The dial is mother-of-pearl with a shimmer of watercolour shades and the case is set with diamonds. Charriol’s signature steel cable is lightweight and ultra-feminine, a symbol of the strength and loving spirituality of women.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2019

WHAT’S ON OUR SHELF? All your favourite reads under one roof.

SA Jewellery News R36,00 (incl VAT)

jewellery BIZ-NEWS

African Odyssey

Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal

Jewellery News JANUARY 2019

SA

2018/19

Jewellex Committee appoints new Chairperson Dubai’s premium jewellery event Make a date for 2019

BI-ANNUAL DIRECTORY | JANUARY-JUNE 2019

Jewellery BizNews Connect

Jewellery Biz-News

YOUR OFFICIAL INDUSTRY EXPORT GUIDE INTO AFRICA

PPC IMAGI

Graphic Design

NARIUM

.CO.ZA ENTER NOW

Early edition 

Sunday – 7 October 2018

STAND OF THE YEAR This year’s Jewellex Africa Stand of the Year overall winner was awarded to Metal Concentrators (Stand Number E5) while Versitrade (Stand Number E6) was awarded the Standard Package winner.

Rowan Jacobson, Chairman of the Jewellex Africa committee, announced the winners at the show.

Published daily

A round table discussion on the subject of synthetic diamonds vs natural diamonds took place at 14h00 yesterday at the Metcon coffee shop. Ernie Blom of Blom Diamonds and President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, renowned local jewellery designer Kevin Friedman and Chris van Rensburg of Studio C and Chairman of the Jewellery Council of South Africa led the discussion while Andrew Meyer, CEO of Isikhova Publishing and Communications and publisher of SA Jewellery News, served as facilitator.

We have a full graphic design studio ready to assist you with all your graphic design needs!

Jewellex Today

For more information about our products or if you would like to advertise in any of our publications contact IAN (ian@isikhova.co.za) or TRIVERN (trivern@isikhova.co.za)

* SA Jewellery News (SAJN) and all other publications are published by Isikhova Publishing and Communications CC T: 011 883 4627 | F: 011 783 2677 | www.isikhova.co.za

LITTLE GEMS

Making a material difference Most people tend to think of precious metals when considering jewellery materials. However, Alice Weil looks at a host of different ones, from ancient times to the present day.

COPPER AND BRASS HAVE been popular metals for self-adornment since the age of the pharoahs, when copper discs were inlaid with slivers of cornelian and a green and black glazed compound. In the early Byzantium period, a copper alloy was often tinted or gilded to imitate the richness of gold.

In African countries, copper has been use by tribes for self-adornment since time immemorial. It captures the allure of Africa and at the present time there are companies in Mpumalanga creating handfinished jewellery in earthy colours inspired

by Ndebele culture which capture the mystique of a long-forgotten era. In more sophisticated urban areas, a copper bracelet is reputed to have therapeutic powers.

A now obsolete process applied to a copper base (used extensively in France until the end of the 19th century, when it was banned) was Ormolu, found extensively on furniture and clocks, notably from the French Empire period. It has been replaced by silver-gilt (vermeil), which has already been discussed in this column in previous issues.

But Ormolu was an interesting process which used finely-ground, high-carat gold in an amalgam of mercury applied to bronze. It was known in England as giltbronze and by the French as bronze d’or.

It was usually applied to a piece of copper.

However, because of the mercury content in the amalgam which was exposed to

28

extreme heat until it was burnt out, it was a dangerous operation for workmen.

Also discarded, although at one time a popular material, was pinchbeck, named after a Fleet Street watchmaker who invented an alloy of zinc and copper that resembled gold. The term is now loosely applied to any gold-coloured metal used in 19th-century jewellery. Although difficult to find today, it looks much richer in colour than any other alloy, wears better and tarnishes less. When the use of lowercarat gold was made legal in the mid-19th century, pinchbeck became redundant.

Brass has become a popular metal in fashion jewellery and is seen on catwalks and in shopping malls. It provides a touch of class to cheaper jewellery because of its muted yellow tone, which slightly resembles gold. No longer associated only with doorknobs, trumpets and locks, it has taken on a new image.

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, whereas bronze is an alloy of copper and tin. It is widely used in chains for necklaces and bracelets, often combined with other products such as beads and glass. Although often chunky, it can also be dainty and light. Contemporary jewellery designers are finding it as malleable as silver or gold.

Pewter jewellery, a fashion trend, is now reappearing in this industry. It is an alloy of a large quantity of tin with smaller amounts of copper, antimony,

bismuth and hard metals. It is regarded as a soft, versatile metal alloy. The Celts used pewter to make knot-work patterns in jewellery because of its long-lasting sheen. It does not scratch or tarnish easily.

New pewter today is free of lead and is a non-allergenic material which is cheaper than gold. For this reason, it is suitable for more affordable jewellery. It has the appearance of silver, but takes less time to polish and is easier to care for.

Glass was used in Egyptian jewellery and, in its present guise, is possibly best-known by visitors to Venice and the Murano Glass Works, whose glass pendants, in particular, are colourful, attractive and trendy. A newer form is Dichroic glass, which provides splashes of colour in rings, earrings and pendants.

Shell jewellery is usually associated with tropical islands, but a more sophisticated use of this material is for cameos. The art of cameo carving has existed since antiquity and while some cameos are carved from materials such as semiprecious gemstones, the more common forms in Italy, particularly in Sorrento, use the layers of different colours in shell.

The species of helmet shell and conch, the former with layers of brown and white, the conch pink and white, facilitate carving on the top part of the shell, whereas the white layer is deep enough for detailed working.

Although brass is often chunky, it can also be dainty and light. Contemporary jewellery designers are finding it as malleable as silver or gold.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2019

A Passion for Quality We deal, buy and sell diamonds of all shapes and sizes including all gemstones and Tanzanite.

Address: Ground Floor, 3 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank • Contact Number: +27 78 613 9343 /+27 84 236 6000

Specialist supplier of fine quality Tanzanite Foundation certified loose tanzanite and certified Tanzanite Blue jewellery.

TM

TM

www.tanzanitecompany.co.za marilyn@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 82 601 3621 warren@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 83 231 8919 P.O Box 85084, Emmarentia, 2029 T +27 11 446 5900 F +27 86 614 7433