SAJN April 2016

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APRIL 2016

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journal

Largest blue HPHT synthetic diamond to date The Egyptian style Still passionate and positive after 40 years as a jeweller

JEWELLEX AFRICA

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Africa’s Premier Jewellery and Watch Exhibition 25-27 SEPTEMBER 2016 GALLAGHER CONVENTION CENTRE, 19 RICHARDS DRIVE, MIDRAND, JHB, SOUTH AFRICA +27 11 484 5528 | lornal@jewellery.org.za | www.jewellex.co.za | www.facebook.com/myjewellex

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za

c ntents

Advertising Sales: Linda Stock Cell: 081-065-7322 E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

6. NEWS • Rapaport launches new investment diamond grading report • GIA offerings benefit Baselworld 2016 attendees • Jaeger-LeCoultre announces partnership with Chaplin’s World • Antwerp rough diamond trade takes upturn • Participation grows at two Hong Kong shows • Smartwatch shipments overtake Swiss watches for “First Time Ever”

16. RETAILERS’ CORNER Dennis Collins: Still passionate and positive after 40 years as a jeweller

• Le Lumiére awarded WDM Authorised Diamond Dealer status

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

13. BRAND HISTORY Lamy Writing Instruments: a leader of significance

Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

21. BRAND MANAGEMENT

Printing: Colors

• A watch for the connoisseur

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

• Bulgari to open its first boutique in Sandton • Patravi TravelTec Black • Popular brand wins talent award • Raymond Weil: a double celebration

15. GEMMOLOGY

• Shiroko’s personalised jewellery

GIA researchers report on a 5,03ct fancycolour HPHT-grown type IIb synthetic diamond produced by NDT, the largest faceted blue laboratory-grown diamond studied so far Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za

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• First-ever case made in 18ct gold for HYT

28. LITTLE GEMS The Egyptian style

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SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

APRIL 2016

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2016. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

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On the cover The Jewellery Warehouse, a member of the Ralph Jacob Group of Companies,

Largest blue HPHT synthetic diamond to date The Egyptian style Still passionate and positive after 40 years as a jeweller

established in 2013, now offers an online shopping interface where tradesmen and store owners can purchase tools and equipment, findings, gemstones, castings and finished products. Visit its online store at: www.jewellerywarehouse.co.za or contact its support team on tel: 086 11 00 111.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2016

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE PARTNERS WITH CHAPLIN’S WORLD For many years now, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been honouring the skills and expertise involved in the world of film-making, as well as paying tribute to great directors.

The brand will be paying homage to an unsurpassed artist both in front of and behind the camera by becoming a partner of Chaplin’s World.

In the heart of the Manoir de Ban at Corsier-sur-Vervey, Chaplin’s World traces the last 25 years of Chaplin’s life in Switzerland. A Hollywood studio will offer a personal experience of the cinematic world of Charlot. Walking down alleys or exploring sets, the spectator rediscovers the mastery of “the Little Tramp”.

Jaeger-LeCoultre enjoys special historical ties with Chaplin.

When the satirist and director set up home in Switzerland in 1953, the cantonal authorities saluted him by presenting him with a very special gift: a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox watch featuring a gold case engraved with the following words: “Hommage du gouvernement Vaudois à Charlie Chaplin – 6 octobre 1953.”

Jaeger-LeCoultre was once again chosen to pay tribute to Chaplin in May 1972, when he was awarded the Caméra Souriante (“Smiling Camera”) prize by the Swiss press photographers’ association, who wanted to acknowledge his friendliness towards national journalists. The prize was an Atmos clock.

These two items will be on display in the Manoir de Ban. Chaplin’s World will open to the public on 17 April 2016.

RAPAPORT OPENS AUCTION WITH OVER 125 000CT OF DIAMONDS Rapaport Auctions opened its recent mêlée auction with over 125 000ct of diamonds. The auction consists of recycled and finely assorted premium-quality diamond parcels in all shapes, qualities and sizes sourced from retailers, pawnshops and refineries around the world. This is Rapaport Auctions’ largest auction to date.

Viewing took place in Rapaport’s New York office from 2226 February and at the Asia World-Expo in Hong Kong from 1-4 March. The wide variety of merchandise offered and the opportunity for buyers to purchase such large quantities of diamonds generated overwhelmingly positive buyer interest. Viewing was by appointment only and limited spaces were available.

“With significant shortages currently in the market, the recycled sector is proving to be an important substitute source of diamonds to the industry,” says Ezi Rapaport, Director of Global Trading: Rapaport Group.

“We’ve seen the market show signs of stability in the past few months, as limited supplies came to market in 2015 and the USA experienced a decent Christmas season. The Hong Kong show, as well as the volume of new rough being sold to the market, are strong indications of whether the trend will continue. At this crucial time, we were proud to provide the industry with such an important platform to trade diamonds at fair market value.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2016

NEWS

RAPAPORT LAUNCHES NEW INVESTMENT DIAMOND GRADING REPORT diamond grading report. The IDR will only be issued for the best quality of round 0,50ct and larger, D-H, IF-VS2, excellent cut, polish and symmetry, Rapaport Specification A1 diamonds which, in the opinion of Rapaport gemmologists, meet investment quality standards. Diamonds that lack overall brilliance, have features that limit trade liquidity or have borderline grades may not be issued with IDRs.

“The Rapaport IDR is designed to identify the best diamonds in the market, while providing the trade, investors and consumers with the highest level of confidence in quality. It will enhance the ability to trade diamonds electronically and enable new, highly liquid and efficient investment diamond markets,” says Martin Rapaport, Chairman of the Rapaport Group.

RAYMOND WEIL CELEBRATES 11TH YEAR AS OFFICIAL TIMING PARTNER OF THE BRIT AWARDS On 24 February, luxury Swiss watchmaker Raymond Weil celebrated its 11th year as official watch and timing partner for the Brit Awards, the UK’s most prestigious music awards ceremony. Celebrating the best of both British and international music, the star-studded award ceremony was hosted at The O2 Arena in London.

This year, to honour the 40th anniversary of punk music, Raymond Weil developed a unique, punk-inspired timepiece worn to the awards ceremony by some of the world’s best-known artists, including Best Male Solo Artist James Bay, Radio One DJ Huw Stephens, Craig David and comedian Alan Carr.

IPC/2016

The Rapaport Group has announced the launch of the new Investment Diamond Report (IDR), which conservatively grades diamonds based on Gemological Institute of America (GIA) standards. Additional gemmological information – including tint, location and colour of inclusions – is provided online and with the report.

All Rapaport IDRs are double-tested, as they include an additional independent GIA

JSGEMS specialising in hand calibrated smalls we stock a wide variety of certified diamonds address: suite 420b, sa diamond centre, 225 main street, jhb, south africa tel: 011 334 7657 • mobile: 082 498 6159 • email: janine@jsgems.co.za

NEWS

SMARTWATCH SHIPMENTS OVERTAKE SWISS WATCHES Global smartwatch shipments outnumbered those of Swiss watches for the first time ever in the final quarter of 2015, as the market for the electronic timepieces soared.

Shipments of smartwatches increased more than fourfold to 8,1 million units in the three months to December, while Swiss watch shipments declined 4,8% to 7,9 million units, according to research and consulting firm Strategy Analytics.

Smartwatch sales are growing fast in North America, Western Europe and Asia, with the Ap-

ple watch capturing 63% of the global market during the quarter, according to the research.

“The Swiss watch industry has been very slow to react to the development of smartwatches,” says Neil Mawston, Executive Director of Strategy Analytics. “It’s been sticking its head in the sand and hoping smartwatches will go away. Swiss brands like TAG Heuer accounted for a tiny 1% of all smartwatches shipped globally during the fourth quarter and they’re a long way behind Apple, Samsung and other leaders in the high-growth smartwatch category.”

TAG Heuer launched its smartwatch in 2015 in partnership with Google and Intel.

The news comes on the back of a torrid 2015 for the Swiss watch industry, with the value of timepiece exports from the country decreasing 3,3% over the previous year and shipments to its biggest trading partner, Hong Kong, sliding 23%. A 33% decline in the value of Swiss watch exports to Hong Kong in January was the 12th consecutive month of declines, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. – Rapaport

DE BEERS’ OVAL BLUE DIAMOND EXPECTED TO FETCH UP TO US$35 MILLION Sotheby’s hopes to raise US$30-35 million from the sale of the largest oval fancy vivid blue diamond ever to appear at an auction.

The “rare and superb” 10,10ct stone, known as the “De Beers Millennium Jewel 4”, is internally flawless and will appear at the Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Spring Sale in Hong Kong on 5 April, according to a statement by Sotheby’s Hong Kong.

The gem is from an Asian private collection and is the only oval-shaped stone among the

12 rare diamonds – 11 blue and one colourless – that form the De Beers Millennium Jewels collection unveiled by De Beers in 2000.

The diamond was exhibited in New York, London, Geneva, Singapore, Taipei and Hong Kong ahead of the auction.

“The market for coloured diamonds has gone from strength to strength and this spring we are thrilled to present the ‘De Beers Millennium Jewel 4’,” said Quek Chin Yeow, Sotheby’s Deputy Chairman for Asia

and Chairman of international jewellery for the continent.

“Fifteen years ago I had the great opportunity of seeing this magnificent stone for the first time and it's an absolute delight now to have it in one’s hand, admire it again and offer it for auction in Asia.”

The news comes after Sotheby’s sold the 12,03ct internally flawless Blue Moon diamond for a world record US$48,5 million at its auction in Geneva last November. – Rapaport

NEWS

ANTWERP ROUGH DIAMOND TRADE TAKES UPTURN In February 2016 a total of US$5,1 billion in diamonds were imported to and exported from Antwerp, based on the trade of 25 million carats of rough and polished diamonds.

Compared with February 2015, this represents an increase of 38% in volume and 4,5% in value. During the same period last year, a total of 18,3 million carats of diamonds were traded, representing an overall value of US$4,8 million.

Taking a closer look at the February 2016 figures in comparison with this past January, we see that the rough diamond trade experienced a noteworthy turnaround. Imports of rough diamonds in February increased 82% in value and 106% in volume. A total of 12 million carats of rough diamonds were imported in February for an overall value of US$1,3 billion.

Russia continued to be the most significant supplier of rough diamonds, providing nearly 33% of all rough stones imported in February. In terms of value, Russia was good for no less than 36% of all rough diamonds that entered Antwerp.

PARTICIPATION GROWS AT TWO HONG KONG SHOWS Foot traffic at the two Hong Kong exhibitions held from 1-7 March 2016 increased from a year ago, with more than 80 000 buyers attending the key fixtures on the jewellery trade calendar. Last year more than 76 000 buyers attended the shows.

More than 31 000 buyers visited the Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show at AsiaWorld-Export from 1-5 March, while more than 49 000 visitors attended the Jewellery Show at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre from 3-7 March.

Buyers at the two shows were from 147 countries and regions. The events also attracted more than 4 380 exhibitors from 54 countries and regions, according to a statement from the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), which organised both the shows.

Traders reported that activity at the events was satisfactory. “Despite global economic challenges, the two shows continued to attract local and overseas buyers,” says Benjamin Chau, Deputy Executive Director of the HKTDC. “This demonstrates the international significance of the two shows, which form the world’s largest jewellery marketplace, reinforcing Hong Kong’s position as a proven global sourcing hub for the industry.” – Rapaport

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2016

GIA OFFERINGS BENEFIT BASELWORLD 2016 ATTENDEES Attendees of Baselworld 2016 had timely access to coloured stone services through the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) Show Service Laboratory, which returned to Hall 3 from 17-24.

“GIA Colored Stone Identification Reports and Colored Stone Identification & Origin Reports for rubies, sapphires and emeralds helped attendees conduct business quickly, accurately and

conveniently during the show,” explains the GIA. “At our booth in Hall 2, visitors could watch a demonstration of the GIA DiamondCheck™ device, learn about sales and education tools through the GIA Retailer Support Programme, subscribe to Gems and Gemology, get involved in the alumni association and talk to representatives from education, alumni and the lab.”

LE LUMIÈRE AWARDED WDM AUTHORISED DIAMOND DEALER STATUS Leading diamond jewellery retailer Le Lumière – owned by Tomei, one of Malaysia’s leading retail jewellery chains – and the World Diamond Mark Foundation (WDM), a not-forprofit organisation established in 2012 by the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, have signed an accreditation agreement that secures the status of Le Lumière as Malaysia’s first retail jeweller to join the WDM Authorised Diamond Dealer (ADD) programme. The signing ceremony took place in Kuala Lumpur and Hong Kong on 5 March in the presence of Datuk Ng Yih Pyng, Le Lumière’s parent company’s Managing Director and WDM Chairman Alex Popov.

Pyng said that the group’s founder and Chairman, Datuk Ng Teck Fong and the board of directors were honoured to see Le

Lumière gain this status. “The reputation and image of Le Lumière as a leader in Malaysia’s retail jewellery are our foremost concerns.

By accrediting it in this way, we’re taking another step in sustaining the retailer’s image, contributing to the improvement of consumer confidence in diamonds and diamond jewellery, and consequently increasing their sales to our target markets.”

“We thank the Tomei Chairman and the board for their leadership and vision for Malaysia’s diamond jewellery retail trade future by starting with the Le Lumière brand,” commented Popov. “By adopting the WDM’s ADD programme, the company will be making great headway in bringing diamonds and diamond jewellery back into the top-performing categories of the luxury product consumer market.”

BULGARI TO OPEN ITS FIRST BOUTIQUE IN SANDTON Italian jeweller and watchmaker Bulgari has announced that it will open its first boutique in the heart of Johannesburg in 2016.

This exciting new move marks an important chapter in the more than 130 years of Bulgari’s history.

As a leading brand in fine and high jewellery, it seems almost fated that Bulgari should make its way to Johannesburg, one of the world’s original sources of the beloved precious metal – gold. The jewellery-maker is one of the few (indeed, many might argue, the only) one to truly master and celebrate the use of yellow gold in its pieces. Combining the metal with bold and brilliantcoloured gems in striking Italian design, Bulgari embodies passion, flair and a unique spirit.

When designing and conceptualising the new boutique for SA, Bulgari’s designers and

architects turned to the iconic flagship store at Via Condotti 10 in Rome. This famous emporium has housed some of the world’s most spectacular jewels and kept the secrets of celebrities and patrons who have visited it for over a century. In 2014, when it celebrated its 130th anniversary, it was refurbished by worldrenowned American architect Peter Marino. Paying tribute to over 2 700 years of Roman history, elements such as bronze, marble and wood were carefully implemented in the design.

The Bulgari store in Sandton City will echo the grandeur of the Marino concept. Countless hours and numerous luxurious materials have gone into perfecting every detail of this magnificent structure.

Well known as the style and luxury hub of Johannesburg, Sandton is the ideal location for the prestigious Bulgari boutique.

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Suppliers of: Certified 0.30-5.00ct round and fancy cut diamonds, hand-calibrated high quality smalls, extensive range of natural cognac/champagne in rounds from 0.005ct-4.00ct as well as fancy cuts, natural and treated smalls in black, blue, pink, purple, yellow etc.

Delivery country-wide

CONTACT DETAILS: Address: 402 East Wing, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193 Tel: (011) 484 3513/4

Fax: (011) 484 5562

Email: richard@denman.co.za/diamonds@denman.co.za

BRAND HISTORY

vertising revamped and a robust fountain pen – the avant-garde, olive green ABS plastic – was produced. It was the result of intensive research in the field of youth psychology, with a group of schoolboys and girls being impressed by its casual appearance.

Another innovation was the 1982 launch of the “White is nice” slogan, with the release of the world’s first and most copied writing instrument in white. A year later, the company’s logo was introduced and the push-button clip unit became a definitive and long-lasting cornerstone of the Lamy range. The next addition to these products – which were the preferred choice of people who admired their cylindrical bodies and cool technical aesthetic – was the Lamy ballpoint twin pen, containing an ingenious surprise: when twisted open, it revealed a propelling pencil.

The needs of children beginning school were investigated in 1988, resulting in a fountain pen specifically designed for those learning to write. The pen was awarded the European Design Prize that year by the Commission of European Communities. The celebration of the reunification of Germany in 1994 coincided with the 60th anniversary of the Lamy brand, as well as the introduction of a tri-pen containing a ballpoint pen, a pencil and a marker pen.

The 21st century has seen further innovations, such as a futuristic triangular body and tapered ends on a ballpoint pen which has become a conversation piece (at the press of a button, the pen unloads a text highlighter); the short and bulbous Lamy Scribble, reminiscent of a piece of charcoal (welcomed by creative people), and the Lamy Pick-up Pro, a sleek, high-end, matte aluminium and stainless steel model, with another in gloss-polished ceramic and a titanium version. The brand won various major design prizes and received an order for 300 000 by a major German insurance company – the biggest promotional gift order in the firm’s history.

Lamy’s strong brand positioning in the West has spread to Eastern European countries and China. Its pioneering role in the writing instrument sector has been further reinforced with products such as the Lamy Scala of stainless steel (finished with an interplay of titanium, varnish or brushed matte) and the Lamy Dialogue 3, the world’s first capless fountain pen.

A leader of significance A small object can add huge functionality and pleasure to the simple practice of writing. A pioneer in the production of writing instruments is a brand founded in Heidelberg, Germany, by a former export and sales representative of the Parker Pen Company in that country. Today, the family-owned business still based there.

WHETHER SMALL AND SIMPLY EVEN, LARGE and elaborate, straight or sloped, every person’s handwriting is unique. The founder of Lamy Writing Instruments, C Josef Lamy, transformed handwriting into a special experience through pens which give it a personal and stylish touch.

Factors such as a nib – of which many of the brand’s fountain pens share the same type – which glides across paper with a whisper, as well as shining, deep blue lines and curves set Lamy fountain pens apart. Their unique design, functionality and aesthetics make them far more than mere writing tools. In the words of their creators, these are stylish accessories which are capable of making an exceptional statement. Even their outward appearance leaves nothing to be desired.

The evolution of a small Heidelberg writing instrument factory into a worldwide brand leader had its foundation in 1930, when C Josef Lamy set up his own business and took up armaments work. More than 200 000 fountain pens were being produced annually at the beginning of World War II. After the war, to mark the start of a new era in 1948, he changed the existing company name to C Josef Lamy Gmbh.

Within four years, the streamlined fountain pen Lamy 27 ensured a smooth, clean flow of ink, symbolising the birth of the brand and

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2016

achieving the firm’s breakthrough on the market. In 1962, having studied economics, 26-year-old Dr Manfred Lamy entered his father’s firm as Marketing Manager.

Germany’s first ballpoint pen with a largecapacity refill and a tip made of stainless steel saw the firm establishing itself on the market.

The Bauhaus era encouraged Dr Lamy to establish his own ideas and preferences, which he matched with the movement of the mid-1960s and was joined by a designer and joint creator of a famous electric razor. This collaboration led to the first product destined to remain on the fountain pen market for many years – the Lamy 2000. Its shape was determined by practicality and it featured combined materials (including stainless steel), as well as innovative details such as a spring clip, heralding a new era of Lamy design. By 1973, Dr Lamy had become the sole Managing Director of Lamy Gmbh.

A new way of implementing the theme of functional design resulted in Lamy receiving both national and international awards for its extremely thin, cylindrical all-metal writing instruments – possibly a key reason for its ballpoints becoming some of the fastest-selling pens in their class in Germany. This increasing success in the market saw the company’s ad-

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GEMMOLOGY

Largest blue HPHT synthetic diamond ever

RECENTLY, LARGE COLOURLESS AND NEARcolourless HPHT-grown diamonds produced by Russian company NDT have been investigated, with sizes up to 5,11ct.

The largest faceted colourless HPHT-grown synthetic diamond reported to date is a 10,02ct E-colour, VS1-clarity specimen, reported by IGI Hong Kong in 2015.

In January 2016, GIA’s New York laboratory examined a 5,03ct fancy-colour HPHT-grown type IIb synthetic diamond produced by NDT, the largest faceted blue laboratory-grown diamond studied so far.

This emerald-cut synthetic diamond was colour-graded as Fancy Deep blue. This is a very attractive shade with no other colour component, a prized rarity among natural type IIb diamonds (the Blue Moon, for instance, was graded as Fancy Vivid blue).

When viewed under a microscope, faint, but sharp colour zoning could be seen, indicative of the uneven impurity incorporation of HPHT synthetic diamonds. No strain was observed under crossed polarisers, indicating a very low dislocation density, which is also characteristic of HPHT-grown diamonds. It had VS1 clarity, with only very small metallic inclusions and a cavity observed at the girdle.

Fluorescence and phosphorescence images collected using a DiamondView instrument revealed the sample’s cuboctahedral growth pattern, another feature of HPHT synthetics.

The long-lasting, chalky blue phosphorescence was further analysed using spectroscopy and the emission was found to originate from two broad bands centred at approximately 500 and 575 nm. These bands have previously been reported in NDT’s type IIa and IIb HPHT synthetic diamonds.

Absorption spectroscopy for the midinfrared region confirmed the sample was type IIb, with strong boron-related features at 1 290, 2 458 and 2 800 cm-1. The average bulk boron concentration was 0,82-1,12 ppm, calculated according to the equation NA-ND = (1,00 ± 0,15) × H1290 ppm cm-3, where NA is acceptor concentration, ND is donor concentration and H1290 is peak height at 1 290 cm-1. Otherwise, this large synthetic diamond exhibited an extremely low concentration of optical defects.

Photoluminescence spectroscopy was conducted at liquid nitrogen temperatures using a range of laser excitations covering the UV-visible-IR range. The PL spectra only revealed emission from a single defect species, a Ni-related emission multiplet with peaks at 483,6/483,8/484,1/484,4 nm (484 nm centre) detected using 324,8 nm laser excitation. As

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2016

GIA researchers Kyaw Soe Moe, Paul Johnson, Ulrika D’Haenens-Johansson and Dr Wuyi Wang report on a 5,03ct fancy-colour HPHT-grown type IIb synthetic diamond produced by New Diamond Technology (NDT), the largest faceted blue laboratory-grown diamond studied so far. with previous type IIb synthetic diamonds, its visible-NIR spectrum showed a transmission window in the blue region and an absorption in the red one, caused by the presence of boron, resulting in the observed blue body colour.

This 5,03ct sample is the largest HPHTgrown blue synthetic diamond examined at a GIA laboratory. As the size and quality of synthetic diamonds improve, careful identification is essential. Representative HPHT synthetic

diamond characteristics seen in this specimen, such as the lack of tatami strain patterns (which are typically observed in natural type IIb diamonds), faint, but sharp colour zoning and small metallic inclusions from the metal-catalyst flux, can be detected using a gemmological microscope, emphasising its continued importance in gem identification. Examination of this large IIb synthetic diamond, combined with those previously reported from NDT, illustrates the rapid progress in HPHT growth technologies. This is a development that will eventually impact the jewellery industry.

Sources: • U D’Haenens-Johansson et al, 2015, “Large Colourless HPHT-grown Synthetic Gem Diamonds From New Diamond Technology, Russia”, G&G Fall 2015, pp260-279; G&G Spring 2015 laboratory notes, pp65-66.

• AT Collins, “Determination of the Boron Concentration in Diamond Using Optical Spectroscopy”, Proceedings of the 61st Diamond Conference, Warwick, UK, 2010.

• AT Collins, “The Characterisation of Point Defects in Diamond by Luminescence Spectroscopy”, Diamond and Related Materials, Vol 1, (Above): A 5,03ct Fancy Deep blue HPHT synthetic diamond was examined by GIA. Photo by Sood (Oil) Judy Chia.

1992, pp457-469.

This 5,03ct sample is the largest HPHTgrown blue synthetic diamond examined at a GIA laboratory. As the size and quality of synthetic diamonds improve, careful identification is essential.

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RETAILER’S CORNER

Dennis Collins from the Chevron Group and Dennis Collins Jewellers in East London talks to SAJN about being a jewellery retailer in today’s challenging economic climate and the impact being a part of the Chevron Group has had on his business.

What is your view on the current general trading conditions of the jewellery retail sector in SA? The perception and reality at the moment is that things are quite tough. There used to be many more retail jewellers countrywide than there are now. In fact, I think there might only be about 20% of the number there were years ago. The ones who’ve disappeared are mainly the “mom-and-pop” stores, while it appears that the chain stores have become bigger and stronger.

With less money being available today, I believe the secret is to really know what’s going on in your business. Never before has there been more necessity to have good controls in place.

You also need to know your market and focus on giving your market exactly what it wants.

What do you see as the most critical element in running a successful jewellery retail store?

There’s only one thing worse than making a loss and that’s not knowing that you’re making a loss. Keeping books and budgets, even if you can’t do it yourself and employ the right person to do it for you, is critical. I’ve been very blessed in that I’ve always had good people running my budgeting and accounts.

Cash flow is of the utmost importance in controlling your business. Another thing we do on a weekly basis is replenish our stock. My son comes in on a Monday and goes over every single item that we sold the previous week, analysing how long it was in stock and whether we need to replace it immediately.

The key is keeping your stock new and getting rid of old merchandise. If you replenish on a weekly basis – and not only when reps

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Still passionate and positive after 40 years as a jeweller SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2016

RETAILER’S CORNER

arrive every six to eight weeks – you’ll never end up with a big backlog, having to place huge orders which you can’t afford on 30 or 60 days' credit. Replenishing your stock on a weekly basis staggers your payments, keeps your stock fresh and gives you control of your stockholding and cash flow.

Do you think things are going to become tougher for jewellery retailers?

Unfortunately, the feeling out there is a very definite “yes”. However, I believe that those who run their businesses well and know exactly what’s going on might be able to take advantage of these difficult conditions.

Has being a part of the Chevron Group benefited your shops?

I can honestly say that Chevron is an amazing organisation and I can’t believe it took me so long to join – and I’ve been a member for many years now.

There are about 32 individual members (although our membership has started growing) and we represent about 40 stores of those members. We have some of the major players in the jewellery industry, as well as many smaller jewellers who come from towns all over the country.

The Chevron Group is a forum for sharing ideas with some of the top jewellery brains in the country. We meet twice a year to discuss everything from staff to security, location, advertising and computer and financial systems.

That’s besides the financial assistance Chevron has to offer all members.

As an executive of the Chevron Group, what was your impression of Jewellex Africa last year?

I was co-opted onto the Jewellex Africa Planning Committee for 2015 and meeting clued-up people in the industry on a regular basis was a major part of what made Jewellex 2015 a great success. First of all, there was a lot more floor space hired out than in previous years, which meant many more exhibitors. The quality of retailers who visited was good and I’ve heard from numerous wholesalers that the first day – when Chevron members attended – was the best one they’ve ever had in the history of Jewellex. So I think 2015 was a turning point for Jewellex.

As far as the Chevron Group’s concerned, we cut out our mini-mart (which is where wholesalers come directly to our meeting) and we coordinated our Chevron AGM to coincide with Jewellex, so that all our members who were in Johannesburg attending the Chevron meeting had the opportunity to walk across the road and

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2016

visit Jewellex, where they could invest in stock.

Chevron invoices of purchases from October to November 2015 were the biggest in the history of the Chevron Group, which we attribute directly to our members orders at Jewellex.

What advice would you offer someone considering opening a jewellery retail store in SA? Unless you have a lot of experience or a family history in the jewellery retail sector, or you’ve got tremendous financial backing, opening a retail store is extremely difficult. You need to know exactly what you’re aiming for on a daily basis to succeed.

Do you think there is potential in opening jewellery retail stores in non-traditional locations such as townships?

Definitely, although there are issues that need to be addressed, such as security. A person from that area might find it easier to open a store than an outsider would. Watch distributors, in particular, might fare well in townships.

I can honestly say that Chevron is an amazing organisation and I can’t believe it took me so long to join – and I’ve been a member for many years now.

How easy is it to get the correct people to work the front end of a retail jewellery store?

People can always be trained. We have a saying: “We hire for attitude and employ for aptitude.”

People can be trained to sell and can be taught about jewellery and watches, but they need to have the right attitude when you hire them. For me, when it comes to frontend staff, it’s much more about attitude than about knowledge. We do train our staff and send them overseas for further training – from jewellery design to GIA courses – and it’s been very rewarding, but attitude is an indispensable element.

Watches have always been a critical part of retail jewellery stores. Are they still so critical?

In certain stores they’re not. I know of a big group which does extremely well and it doesn’t sell watches at all – its focus is on diamonds, tanzanite and magnificent gold jewellery.

Watches do, however, still play a huge part in many retail stores and there’s definitely a market for good, expensive brands. Branding, in general, is very important. I also know of a number of jewellery brands which are doing exceptionally well at the moment.

Do you get the services you need from local suppliers?

In terms of administration and paperwork, we definitely do. In terms of merchandise, more and more retailers have decided over the years to travel abroad. It’s sad that that’s the case, but we retailers have in the past been able to find far bigger selections there at far better prices. However, with the current rand/dollar exchange rate, that’s become more difficult.

So jewellery manufacturers in this country have a great opportunity to step up to the plate with new ideas and begin producing the quality and style of jewellery we’d normally have to travel overseas to buy.

In your own stores, what percentage of stock is imported and what percentage is locally manufactured?

Our watches are quite a big part of our business, as we carry some big brands, so we have to take those out of the equation, because they’re all imported.

About 80% of my jewellery, gold, diamonds and silver is imported – because even if I haven’t imported it myself, I’m buying it from somebody who has.

If you could have your career over again, would you still choose to enter the jewellery sector?

Absolutely – even though some of my friends might think I’m nuts!

The trade’s been very good to me and I’ve been very fortunate, thanks to the Chevron Group, Jewellex, the Jewellery Council and people in the industry. I’ve always made it my business to talk to these people and the big guns in the sector so that I can learn from them and they’ve all been amazing to me. It really has been very rewarding and we’re truly blessed to be in the position we’re in now in terms of the business. I must add, though, that I couldn't have done what I did without the support and dedication of my family.

17

DID YOU KNOW?

Interesting facts 1

2

Before she married into the royal family, Kate Middleton needed a coat-of-arms, and the one that was designed featured the oak leaves and acorns. Since then, the duchess has developed a personal collection of oak leaf and acorn jewellery.

According to a Persian myth, Satan noticed that Eve loved the brightlycoloured flowers in the Garden of Eden and thus created gemstones in the same hues to tempt humans.

5

4

Oysters and mussels aren't the only source of pearls. There are other sources such as the Melo Melo marine snail, Strombas gigas and the Haliotis iris mollusc.

7

Sweat can weaken the inlay of your ring. Wearing your engagement ring when you work out can also cause your ring to bend and change its shape, or it can cause the stone’s setting to bend and the stones to fall out.

8

The record price for a single piece of jadeite jewellery was set at the November 1997 Christie’s Hong Kong sale: Lot 1843, the “Doubly Fortunate” necklace of 27approximately 0,5 mm jadeite beads sold for US$9,3 million.

While travelling to Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport in 2005, a KLM cargo truck carrying approximately £73 million worth of diamonds was intercepted and hijacked by men wearing authentic KLM uniforms. The robbery ranks as one of the largest diamond thefts to date.

3

The Centenary Diamond, which was discovered at the Premier Mine in SA in 1986, was 599ct and was considered internally and externally flawless, with its rating of colour grade D, thehighest grade of colourless diamond.

6

The only real gold is yellow gold. White and rose-coloured gold are actually considered gold alloys. These are made by mixing pure gold with other minerals such as iron, silver or platinum.

9

To make silver durable enough for use in jewellery, pure silver is often alloyed with small quantities of copper The copper is added to strengthen the silver and the resulting product is 0,925 sterling silver.

• For your weekly dose of interesting industry-related facts, visit: www.facebook.com/pages/SAJN/508328912586722 and “like” the SAJN Facebook page.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2016

19

BRAND HISTORY

Patravi TravelTec Black Carl F Bucherer delivers a timepiece which is finished to the highest standards. First the exterior: the stainless steel case benefits from a diamond-like carbon coating that confers a compelling, deep matte black aspect. This crystalline carbon coating, applied in layers, has a structure similar to that of diamond. This guarantees a continued intensity of colour over time, as well as exceptional scratch- and shock-resistance.

As for the movement, in addition to a chronograph function, the TravelTec Black displays a triple time zone. To achieve this, the watchmakers have literally merged the COSCcertified movement with the case: a patented pusher at 10 o’clock pivots an inner bezel, which is graduated for the third time zone

over 24 hours. The other two time zones are displayed on the dial.

Established in Lucerne, the small Swiss company grew to become internationally renowned. The Bucherer Group remains familyrun today and is currently in its third generation, managed by the owner and Chairman, Jörg G Bucherer. Under the leadership of CEO Sascha Moeri, a highly specialised team of 160 employees ensures that the company’s philosophy is carried from Lucerne into the world.

Carl F Bucherer’s timepieces and movements are developed and produced in the company’s own workshops in Switzerland.

The recent breakthrough was the manufacturer’s own CFB A1000 movement, which is driven by an external rotor.

Popular brand wins talent award

Quai des Bergues Thanks to three passionate and daring founders, as well as the support of dozens of aficionados worldwide, Swiss brand Czapek has now been reborn in complete accordance with the style and genius of its founder.

François Czapek, former associate of Norbert de Patek, continued his career solo in 1845, supplying timepieces to Napoleon III and the aristocracy of the era. The Quai des Bergues owes its design to one of Czapek’s stellar creations, the 3430 pocket watch, dating from 1850.

It is powered by an exclusive Czapek movement with a seven-day power reserve developed in collaboration with Chronode.

Crafted in Grand Feu enamel, according to the finest traditional methods, the dial is swept over by polished and chased gold or blued stainless steel hands and is framed by a 42,5 mm case available in various gold colours, titanium or a new XO steel alloy.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2016

Swiss watch brand Frédérique Constant has been chosen by a jury of professionals from the luxury industry as a winner in its category of watches in the Lalique Prize for 2016 from among 16 laureates.

The Talents de Luxe et de la Création selects the best designers of the year, who are the vital energy behind laboratories and companies representing the values of luxury, boldness, well-being, elegance, harmony, innovation, inventiveness, originality, rarity and seduction. The prize-giving ceremony was held in Paris. Winners automatically become members of the “cercle de luxe”.

Frédérique Constant is extremely honoured to have been recognised for its excellence

and the award was accepted by the brand’s founders, Peter and Aletta Stas. “This award rewards the high energy Frédérique Constant constantly puts into its conquest of new territories,” says Stas.

This is not the first time the brand has been honoured: last year its Horological Smartwatch – which combines tradition, technology and luxury – was chosen as Watch of the Year from among 32 timepieces.

“Frédérique Constant has always been capable of developing a smartwatch and is still the only one able to deliver a connected watch in France,” says the Director of Temple, the exclusive distributor of the brand in that country.

A watch for the connoisseur Arnold & Son continues to draw inspiration from its past. The brand’s new Constant Force Tourbillon reflects its origins in the 18th century, when the British watchmaker ranked highly among eminent specialists in matinée chronometry ingenuity.

The movement is empowered with a constant force mechanism and true beats seconds. It ensures a regular flow of power through the tourbillon’s two series mounted barrels at 12 o’clock.

The tourbillon is visible between 7 and 8 o’clock, with true seconds between 4 and 5 o’clock, storing energy from the balance via a spring which releases only at every elapsed second. The second hand therefore advances

incrementally, allowing time to be read with greater ease and precision.

Set in an 18ct gold case of 46 mm diameter, the seconds counter and inner anthracite bezel ring have 18ct red gold applications.

The watch has a domed sapphire crystal with multi-level anti-reflective coating on both sides. The hand-stitched bracelet strap is a patent brown alligator design with a red and gold clasp.

21

Prices & Online ordering on our NEW website:

www.capewatch.co.za Tel: 021 424-8261 E-mail: tkh@capewatch.co.za Quote SAJN2016 for a once off FREE shipping on your next order over R300

BRAND MANAGEMENT

First-ever case made in 18ct gold for HYT After using high-tech, outstanding and classic designs and materials, HYT is now exploring noble metals by presenting its first-ever case made in 18ct pink gold. This colour actually dictates the entire design of the H1, with its dial displaying pleasing contrasts between the warmth of gold and distinctive black indications.

For the first time, the fluid hour indicator of the H1 Full Gold is also black. The central concept of the HYT brand is of replacing the hour hand with a coloured fluid that moves up and down in a capillary: a glass tube which is less than 1 mm. The deep black liquid advances steadily until 6 pm and then switches to retrograde mode, flowing back to its initial position of 6 am. Like the four other colours developed

by HYT, the black shade has its own specific properties.

The watch has a mechanical hand-wound movement, exclusive HYT calibre and handchamfered bridges and is adorned with a Côtes

de Genève, rhodium-plated bellows and 35 jewels. It operates at 28 800 vibrations per hour and is a 50-piece limited edition.

Extreme alchemists, HYT’s hydro-mechanical watchmakers have observed the strictest codes in fine watchmaking – but also felt entirely free to shatter them. By overcoming the daunting challenge of indicating the time with water, they have united two worlds which are supposedly diametrically opposed. Not since the water clocks of the pharaohs have the laws of gravity been broken in this way.

The leitmotif? Fluid mechanics, or the ultimate in hybrid technology. The formula?

Avant-garde watchmaking developments, engineering pushed to its limits, high-tech materials and a design that generates genuine emotions. HYT’s first performance? The H1 – a piece of fine watchmaking that epitomises the brand’s innovation, execution and uncompromising quality.

It’s all about the shape The Elite 6150 watch by Zenith is all about shape. Soft as a pebble, discreetly classical and yet also contemporary, it seems to suggest that time has no hold on its pink goldrobed curves.

Zenith has equipped the ultra-thin case with the latest-generation Elite 6150 in-house calibre, endowed with a power reserve of more than four days: a modern version of

the famous Elite that was named “Movement of the Year” in 1994. The precision and performance inherited from its prestigious past are still very much evident today. The Elite 6150 combines mechanical refinement with aesthetic restraint, distinguishing itself as a watch unaf-

fected by fleeting trends.

It operates at 28 800 vibrations per hour and has 195 components, as well as Côtes de Genève embellishments. Its 18ct pink gold or steel case is 42 mm in diameter with a sapphire crystal and back. It is water-resistant to 50 m.

Shiroko’s personalised jewellery Since Shiroko launched into the South African market in late 2015, its success has been swift.

“Discovering that what people really want is something personal and unique, Shiroko stepped forward to offer exactly that – and consumers have responded,” says the brand. It is already being stocked in more than 30 shops nationwide.

Shiroko’s range of customised, fine jewellery offers something for everyone and for any occasion. Created in top-quality, rhodium-plated 925 sterling silver with cubic zirconias, Shiroko jewellery adds unique elegance to any outfit, seamlessly combining contemporary style with a variety of fashionable designs.

The stunning range of floating charm lockets can be completely per-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2016

sonalised. The lockets are offered in various shapes and sizes, such as hearts and circles, and are either stone-encrusted or plain. Customers can choose from a wide variety of floating charms to go inside their locket. These include birth stones, letters of the alphabet, star signs, numbers, animals, religious symbols, good luck icons and many more. Moreover, the charms can easily be added to or changed.

The brand’s Harmony Balls – encased in high-quality, silver-plated pendants – are subtle, magical chimes. They are worn in some cultures by pregnant women to soothe their unborn babies. Some believe that once the babies are born, the sound of the balls will remind them of being in the womb.

(Above): Inspired by the famous Fendi Bugs, the tiny furry creatures that invade the fashion world with their bewitching eyes, the new Momento Fendi Bugs Limited Edition appears with a feminine touch. Issued in a 50-piece limited and numbered edition, this stainless steel model is adorned with a total of 382 diamonds – 286 of them for the dial. The watch is fitted with a stainless steel bracelet accented by a row of white ceramic links.

23

THE MEANING OF TRADE TERMS IN OUR GEM AND JEWELLERY INDUSTRY Natural: A gem formed completely by

altered or affected with the intention of

nature without human intervention during

changing or altering the natural colour.

the formation.

Coating: A substance applied over the

Synthetic: A laboratory grown gem that

surface or part of the surface most often

essentially has the same chemical, physical

with the intention of altering or enhancing

and optical properties as the natural gem.

the colour.

a) HPHT (High pressure high temperature)

Annealing: When a gem is heated to a

diamond growth: The process whereby

certain temperature and allowed to cool

diamonds are grown in a laboratory envi-

down slowly.

ronment, using both high pressure and high

Heat Treatment: Where a gemstone

temperature in the formation process. b) CVD ( chemical vapour deposition): The

is subjected to heat to intentionally alter, deepen or change the appearance of the

process whereby a material is deposited

gem either colour or clarity.

from a gas onto a substrata and that

Fracture filled/Clarity enhanced: Where

chemical reactions are involved. The

the surface reaching fractures of the gem-

gases normally used are atomic hydrogen

stone have been filled with a substance so as

and methane.

to improve the appearance of the gem. This

Simulant:

ny artificial or natural product

is not seen as a stable process.

that is used to imitate a particular gem stone.

Flux Healing: The partial healing or closing

This simulant will have chemical, physical and

of a fissure in the presence of molten ux

optical properties unrelated to those of the

during the heat treatment.

natural stone.

Glass filled: Where the surface reaching

Treated gemstones: Gemstones that have

fractures of the gemstone have been filled

undergone any human intervention other

with glass so as to improve the appearance

that cutting, polishing, cleaning and setting

of the gem.

with the intention to permanently or non-

Oiling: Where gems are soaked in oil which

permanently change the appearance of the clarity and/or colour.

then penetrates into the surface reaching fractures and enhances the appearance of

Irradiation: The exposure to radiation to

the gem.

change the colour.

Diffusion Treated: Chemicals and heat are

Dyed: Where a porous gemstone is dyed to

used to induce colouration in a gemstone.

alter its colour.

It can be surface related colouration or

HPHT-process (High pressure high tem-

colouration throughout the stone.

perature): Where a diamond has been

Fluorescence: The appearance of lumines-

subjected to high pressure and heat to the

cence in a gemstone when viewed under

point that the structure of the diamond is

ultraviolet light.

For more information on EGL SOUTH AFRICA, contact its Johannesburg Office at tel: (011) 334-4527 or its Cape Town Office at tel: (021) 419-8828.

Print 1

Print 2

SURFACE TREATED TANZANITE On the 19 March 2008 a faceted tanzanite’s were positively identified as being treated by an unknown method. Other previously seen surface treatments took the form of simple acetone-soluble blue dye(s).

Print 1 Showing where thin, unidentified, surface deposits have broken down. Hard rubbing with an acetone-soaked cloth slightly increases the surface breakdown each time it is done, but the coating does not come off easily using this medium.

Print 2 Diffraction-type colours observed from particles breaking down along a common facet joint. Similar coloured specks can also be seen in isolation elsewhere.

Some observations • This type of surface treatment was not observed on the crown of the stone, only the pavilion, and therefore may not be detected if the stone is set in jeweler.

• Surface dyes previously seen on other tanzanites are easily rubbed off using an acetone-wetted cloth – which is different to the treatment discussed here.

www.egl.co.za

BRAND MANAGEMENT

Impresario Lady First introduced in 1998, the elegantly crafted Concord Impresario proudly makes a comeback to the forefront of the watchmaking scene. Its sophisticated allure is due to its free-spirited blend of tradition and modernity interpreted in two designs, one for men and another for women.

Released from the constraints of pure classicism, this feminine version provides its own definition of elegance, with refined lines featuring a vibrant contrast between stainless steel, pink gold and shimmering white mother-ofpearl. The delicate diamond embellishment on the dial pays tribute to the design’s aesthetic identity. This new model also features several of the Impresario’s original iconic design details, including finely fluted case sides and slender pink gold-plated hour-markers. The watch makes a definite style statement and can be worn by day or night.

Founded over 100 years ago in Biel, Switzerland, Concord is a luxury watch brand with a history of award-winning timepieces and innovations. Acquired by the MGI Luxury Group in the early 1970s, it was re-launched as a dynamic, highly original niche brand which, in recent years, has been energetically repositioned from a revolution-driven strategy to an

evolution-driven counterpart.

Given Concord’s commitment to building on the technical achievements of its recent past, while combining them with current visionary thinking, this approach is entirely in keeping with its principles. The re-launch of the iconic 1980s Saratoga Collection in a number of wholly 21st-century iterations has resulted in this historical watch range becoming a strong pillar of the brand.

Interpreted through no fewer than 40 different models over the past 25 years, this distinctive, new incarnation combines traditional thoroughbred elegance (complete with the Saratoga trademark horses embossed on the back of the case) with both classic and contemporary design. Following in the wake of the Saratoga, but focusing on the high seas rather

than the racetrack, came the 2014 re-launch of the 1980 Mariner Collection. Here, Concord captures the essence of today’s casual, yet elegant dress code for both men and women, with 22 variations driven by quartz or automatic movements, targeting a younger clientele seeking an alternative watch that exudes personality. The Mariner Collection bears a distinctive wind-rose logo symbolising the pleasures associated with marina life – an elegant getaway from the fast-paced city, offering both relaxed moments and adventure for the intrepid spirit.

Now endowed with a slimmer, sexier persona, the C1’s sturdy, avant-garde construction has also been the subject of a successful makeover nearly a decade after its original launch.

It features state-of-the-art materials such as carbon fibre, titanium and ceramic, while losing none of the DNA of the brand and its heritage.

Following the re-launch of its iconic C1 line in 2013, Concord now reveals more of that DNA in the new 47 mm C1 Tourbillon.

Once again, this is an intricately crafted timepiece which required the meticulous skill and care of Concord’s master craftsmen. It not only affirms Concord’s global identity, but expresses the boldness, imagination and timelessness of the brand.

Making a statement Flaunting a vision of elegance is Calvin Klein’s Step, a graphic contemporary design inspired by urban architecture and plays on contrast, which combines materials and appears in a multitude of colours. There are four men’s versions and four feminine variations, while its round case and perfectly carved steel lines mean it can fit any wrist and has limitless appeal.

In a brushed and polished steel model, it features an extremely pure metallic grey, with

silver-toned or petroleum blue dials framed by a case in two diameters. It also displays a variety of styles, sporting an aura of casual chic or a refined, two-toned, rose gold-plated PVD version. The watch displays hours, minutes, seconds and date at 3 o’clock.

The movement is quartz, while the glass sapphire crystal, hands and hours are of polished steel or rose gold-treated PVD. This timepiece is set on a bracelet of polished steel with a folding clasp.

Heritage Black Bay Bronze by Tudor The Heritage Black Bay Bronze inherits the most characteristic elements from Tudor’s eloquent history in dive watches: the domed crystal, the prominent winding crown from the 1958 model, dubbed “Big Crown”, the angular “snowflake” hands from the 1970s and the beige woven jacquard strap, a nod to the French sailors who made their own straps from elastic recovered from rescue parachutes.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2016

The bronze case is a reminder of the bronze used for the helmets in the heroic early days of diving. Add to this a mechanical automatic movement with COSC chronometer certification – developed, manufactured and assembled in-house – and there can be no doubt that this new Black Bay Bronze will become a partner for life, slowly developing a unique patina to match its owner’s lifestyle.

25

Tel: (012) 326 8348/328 5996 E-mail: smwatch@iafrica.com

Fax: (012) 325 7079 www.smwatch.co.za

Contact Adri Viviers on 084-261-1805 or sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2016

LITTLE GEMS

The Egyptian style The invention of a white pottery glaze suitable for painted decoration was an advance in the history of pottery. It is attributed to Iran before the 9th century.

However, it was the French-speakers from northern Italy who gave the name to the Egyptian art form of faïence (derived from the French facina), which they used in jewellery. Alice Weil traces its earliest origins.

THE TERM “FAÏENCE” IS USUALLY ASSOCIATED with ancient Egyptian jewellery. It is a crushed quartz material, best described as a glazed composition with a bright lustre in various colours, of which blue-green is the most common. It often imitates semi-precious stones, but it is actually a form of pottery which has been used in jewellery at different times.

Faïence was used on beads, small statues and pottery and was the primary material for scarabs and other forms of amulets. The scarab was the sacred beetle of Egyptians – with a history dating back to the beginning of the second millennium – and was included in most forms of ancient Egyptian jewellery such as amulets, particularly during the fourth century BC. Interestingly, the carving of these little insects later led to the development of cameo carving.

The glaze (named after the town of that name, which was famous for its pottery) had a specific feature in that it felt smooth against the skin. Larger objects were bowls, cups and wall surfaces, particularly in temples.

Egyptian faïence is distinct from the tin-glazed faienza associated with Italy and named for a town in that country which is renowned for its pottery. This is red earthenware covered with white glaze and decorated with colourful designs.

It is not known for certain how ancient ceramic became known as Egyptian faïence.

One theory is that when Europeans came to Egypt in the 18th century, they thought the brightly coloured scarabs and other small items resembled the pottery of Faienza. At that time, the word was sometimes used as

28

a generic term for any type of glazed pottery.

Egyptian faïence, which is very different from earthenware pottery, was exported widely in the ancient world and the favourite blue-green colour was presumed to be a reference to the Nile, the waters of heaven and the home of the gods. Despite the prominence of this colouring, turquoise and lapis lazuli were also alternatives, of which the latter was the most sought after.

Egyptian faïence (sometimes referred to as “Egyptian paste”) is the oldest type of glazed ceramic, developed some 6 000 years ago in both Egypt and Mesopotamia. Its surface can vary from matte to opaque, glossy and translucent. It is considered a non-clay ceramic because it is composed mainly of silica, along with

small amounts of sodium and calcium. It is self-glazing, since the sodium in the wet paste comes to the surface as it dries to form a glaze when it is fired in a kiln – a process known as efflorescent glazing. The two most common colours (turquoise and blue) are achieved by adding metal oxides (copper and cobalt ) to the paste.

Faïence can also be created by placing small items such as beads in a container full of glazing powder (cementation glazing) or by painting on a glaze (application glazing), and more than one method of glazing can be used on a single piece. Researchers and experiments have shown that there were many recipes for Egyptian faïence, varying by location and over time.

The Egyptians are credited with being the first to search for substitutes to replace rare materials for their jewellery. They used coloured glass and faïence, deemed suitable for imitating lapis lazuli, which could not be found in Egypt.

Pottery has been an alternative material used for jewellery at different times.

The modern Egyptian jewellery style began in the 1860s, with interest in it being strengthened by the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 by Viscount Ferdinand de Lesseps.

The trend peaked around the 1890s, during a revival period. Portraying Cleopatra on stage in 1899, actress Sarah Bernhardt set a trend by wearing Egyptian-style jewellery designed

by René Lalique, who attempted to emulate ancient techniques. The style returned to the fore in the 1930s, following the opening of Tutankhamun’s tomb (who, like other pharaohs and noblemen, was buried with his treasures)

by English archaeologist Howard Carter. The tomb was found to contain wondrous valuables, including amazingly extravagant jewels bearing strange symbols. These fascinated the public, leading to a demand for interpretations of Egyptian motifs.

Tutankhamun’s ornaments strongly influenced the world of design during the 1920s and a new kind of Egyptian revival jewellery was born. Silver gilt replaced the original rich gold, while turquoise, lapis lazuli and cornelian were also used (albeit less extravagantly). However, it was the dramatic geometric designs and atmosphere which created the overall impression of each jewel.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2016

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