SAJN April Issue

APRIL 2012

south african jewellery news

The industry's only trade journal

Wollo opals – a powerful source from Ethiopia SA designer at London Fashion Week Forevermark expansion continues with launch in South Africa

SPINNING JEWELRY fashionable, unique and fun

In just six years, Spinning Jewelry has grown into an innovative company and key player in the international and local market for designer combination jewellery.

it. I was therefore very pleased when Sutherland & Goodman took the brand on themselves because I was already an existing client of theirs so it made it easy to get the brand into my store. Spinning really has such an extensive variety to offer customers. At the moment only the rings are available, however, the earring collection will be launched locally in April and shortly after that will be the bracelets and necklaces. It’s thus apparent that the brand will unquestionably grow.

What started out as 10 combinable ring designs is now a full-scale jewellery concept comprising rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets.

Spinning Jewelry uses jewellery to emphasise style and personality. With its combination jewellery concept, it has created a collection of fashion jewellery where the only limit is the wearer’s imagination. All pieces are designed in Denmark and hand-made in Thailand. “Spinning Jewelry’s creative design team work year-round to develop and test new shapes, colours and materials and new collections are launched twice a year with hundreds of designs in gold, silver, pearls, diamonds and semi-precious stones,” says local distributor Sutherland & Goodman.

Q: What other items are you looking forward to supply to your clients?

A: I am so excited about the earring collection that will be available soon. I’ve found that earrings really sell well, sometimes even more so than any other item. With the earrings you’ll be able to wear it as a stud or change it to a drop-earring.

The wearer can even add attachments as she wishes – again allowing the wearer to change her look as she wishes.

Nadia Dolak of Crystalia in Morningside Shopping Centre, Johannesburg was the first person in South Africa to sell Spinning Jewelry in her store and hasn’t looked back since.

Q: What differentiates Spinning from other brands?

A: Spinning is a totally unique brand. It allows you to choose how you would like to wear it – you can wear one or two rings or stack it. There are so many options you can choose from depending on your mood and the occasion. It also allows you to alternate the pieces according to the colour and style of your wardrobe. What also makes it distinctive is that we have nothing similar to this stackable concept in our store.

Q: Why do you think Spinning is such a popular brand?

A: I saw the brand long before it was even launched in South Africa and couldn’t wait to stock

Q: How does the Ring King display enhance your shop and the brand?

A: With all the rings in one place, it definitely draws people to the store to have a look at it. All the rings are on display in the top of the Ring King with all the sizes underneath, which means you don’t necessarily have to order a ring specifically for a customer as you actually have the stock on hand. The public is also very keen on this kind of display as it allows them to play around with the different styles. It’s a very secure unit so there’s no theft risk. It is also a convenient way to display rings as there are no trays involved – it really takes up minimal space and cuts back on human resources costs.

Q: Do you support the brand and would you recommend it to friends and family?

A: Not only do I have a considerable collection at home, but so do all my friends and family.

Q: What is the most popular item at the moment?

A: Initially the sandblasted silver band was the most popular item, however, at the moment I’ve found the silver eternity band with little flowers to be most sought after.

Q: How do you believe Spinning benefits your shop?

A: It really does ensure repeat business. I had an instance where a lady bought a few rings from me and came back later to buy another seven and order two – and that’s only one customer.

I believe that the more stores to stock the brand and the more awareness there is around it, the easier it would be for people to recognise it in a shop immediately. It is still a relatively new brand in South Africa so it might take some time for people to understand the brand and concept.

What’s also great about Spinning is that it covers such a wide age group spectrum – I’ve sold to girls of 20 years old and to ladies of 50 years old.

Sutherland & Goodman has also been very supportive through the entire process. Besides explaining the brand thoroughly, they also supplied us with efficient and proper marketing material which makes it so easy for any storeowner.

SUTHERLAND & GOODMAN (PTY) LTD | TEL: +27 11 483 0102 | FAX: +27 11 483 0110 | EMAIL: SUGO1@ICON.CO.ZA

WHO WE ARE Hybrid Advanced Geometries is an innovation leader in 3D printing in South Africa, with developing, manufacturing and designing systems to meet the global markets and with the help of its series of printing machines such as that of Hybrid Advanced Geometries in house Objet Eden350V - printer. With its ultra-thin-layer, high resolution 3-dimensional printing system that utilizes the polyjet polymer jetting techonology, to print ultra thin 16-micron layer models you are sure to find a winning solution for your Rapid prototying and Rapid Manufacturing needs.

Hybrid has proven itself to the market by providing a complete solution that is tailor made for the very small business to the larger corporations as a full printing bureau. Hybrid’s solutions enable manufacturers, industrial designers and a wide range of other fields to reduce their cost of product development and dramatically shorten time-tomarket of new product giving our customers the advantage over their competitors.

APPLICATIONS

Other services: • CAD Design service

• Free CAD designs

* Mould manufacture

• Corporate packages

• Metal Casting Service

• Affiliate designer platform

• Composite Casting Service

• Design sales platform

TEL: +27 11 996 6000 • FAX: 086 517 0257 • EMAIL: HYBRID3D@VODAMAIL.CO.ZA

BASIC STUDS

ASSORTED HOOPS

RINGS

FANCY EARRINGS

PENDANTS

Contact Ronald or Lauren Postal address: P.O.Box 2095, Houghton, 2041 • Physical address: Room 401, 4th Floor, East Wing, The Hamlet, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193 Tel: 011 642 2018/9 • Fax: 011 642 2016 • Email: ungarbros@worldonline.co.za • Website: www.ungarbros.co.za

“Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” – Leonardo da Vinci

JANUARY 2012

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

www.isikhova.co.za

nternational ewellery Calendar: Make a date for 2011

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

The industry's only trade journal

Durability, care and leaning of gems

www.isikhova.co.za

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

www.isikhova.co.za

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

Retail Reference Guide CD inside

Managing jewellery chain stores

Botswana to host “Stakeholder Roundtable” on diamond beneficiation

www.sivanadiamonds.co.za

op timepieces hoose platinum

Make a date for 2010 Training a nation

The art of enamelling

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

www.isikhova.co.za

July 2011

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

Vintage jewels: reflection of history

nhorgenta Europe 2011

www.isikhova.co.za

US$15.70 RSA R29.95 International includes p&p

June 2011

EU ambassadors visit Limpopo US$15.70 RSA R29.95 International includes p&p

US$15.70 RSA R29.95 International includes p&p

May 2011

Hong Kong International Jewellery Show 2011: from strength to strength

www.isikhova.co.za

September 2011

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

Watch and clock supplement:

Gem treatments, imitations and synthetics

• The evolution

Three-dimensional X-ray radiography

of Baselworld

www.isikhova.co.za

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

India International Jewellery Show 2011

watch market

De Beers SA interim results

• Ceramic –

a viable alternative

Jewellex Africa 2011 – re-vitalised

THE MORE YOU TELL Watching the watch market

Ceramic – a viable alternative

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

The treasures of the Hapsburgs

VicenzaOro Choice

Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair

The emerald – a historic gem

THE MORE YOU SELL October 2011

December 2011

DI honours Varda Shine

Argyle Pink Diamond Tender 2011

US$15.70 RSA R29.95 International includes p&p

The evolution of Baselworld

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October 2011

US$15.70 RSA R29.95 International includes p&p

GIA hosts Diamond Grading Classes in Botswana

www.isikhova.co.za

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

www.isikhova.co.za

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

www.isikhova.co.za

Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair

Suppliers and refiners of precious metal

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The machinations of a mining magnate

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US$15.70 RSA R29.95 International includes p&p

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SA exhibitors present at IJL 2011

PlatAfrica 2011 Cartier’s horological heritage on show SA exhibitors present at IJL 2011 The machinations of a mining magnate 2 0 1 1

2 0 1 1

NEW YEAR, NEW-LOOK

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

www.isikhova.co.za

op timepieces hoose platinum

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

JANUARY 2012

FEBRUARY 2012

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

Durability, care and leaning of gems

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

February 2010

nternational ewellery Calendar: Make a date for 2011

www.isikhova.co.z

VicenzaOro Choice

2011 - the year that was

Cartier’s horological heritage on show

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

The treasures of the Hapsburgs

Gemstone conference: Jaipur, India

PlatAfrica 2011

www.isikhova.co.za

IDI honours Varda Shine

Forevermark launches in South Africa

The lure of diamonds

January 2011

www.isikhova.co.z

The jewels of the Romanovs

• Watching the

Gems from East Africa – can they help protect nature?

2 0 0 9

August 2011

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

www.isikhova.co.z

www.isikhova.co.za

The industry's only trade journal

April 2010

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

www.isikhova.co.z

The industry's only trade journal

Avoid disappointment and contact Tanja Jordaan or Jason Laing to book your advertising space for 2012. www.sivanadiamonds.co.za

Tel: (011) 883 4627 • Mobile: 083 268 6153 (Tanja) • Mobile: 082 974 5846 (Jason)

The jewels of the Maharajas

www.sivanadiamonds.co.za

US$15.70 RSA R29.95 International includes p&p

High-end watches for high-achievers

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All business at IIJS Signature

The colourful world of gemstones Antwerp Diamond Bourse steps up branding efforts Jacob & Co appoints new local distributors Analogue-digital divides

How to quote on or price a job Demantoid deposits around the world The art of decorating metal

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

July 2010

August 2010

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

www.isikhova.co.za

September 2010

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

www.isikhova.co.za

Conducting business throughout southern Africa

Retailing selling strategies

Caring for pearls The industry's only trade journal

The future of jewellery store service

Back in the day

New-found confidence at a glimpse of improved markets

It’s all systems go for Jewellex Africa 2010

State Diamond Trader to develop new funding model

Jewellex Africa: a red-carpet affair Golconda – citadel of mythical diamonds

trading practices

Rocks & Minerals of Southern Africa Window displays –

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CIBJO launches

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Geneva Time Exhibition 2012

WFDB urges The industry's only trade journal responsible

www.isikhova.co.z

B RE A KIN G N E WS!! !

Jewel Quip have merged with Cape Watch Tools & Jewellery Supplies.

Bringing you a bigger better range with the same great service.

Jewel Quip’s services will remain uninterrupted while relocating to Cape Town.

6th Floor Wale Street Chambers I 33 Church Street Cape Town I PO Box 65 Cape Town 8001 (t) 021 424 8261 I

(f) 0867 210 871 I www.capewatch.co.za I www.jewelquip.co.za I

0861 115 137

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za

c ntents 21. SCENE AROUND

Advertising Sales: Tanja Jordaan Cell: 083-268-6153

Forevermark expansion continues with launch in South Africa

E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za Jason Laing Cell: 082-974-5846

23. JEWELLERY DESIGN

Advertising Sales Representative (India):

SA designer, Kevin Friedman, at London Fashion Week

Bhupal Potdar E-mail: bhupal.potdar@publicitas.com

25. MARKET WATCHING

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera

SAJN speaks to Roland Kopel and David Mayers of Emanuel’s Jewellers in Nelson Mandela Square, Johannesburg

E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Prestige Bulk Mailers

SA Jewellery News is published by:

9. News

Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC,

• EGL president, Guy Margel, passes away

PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Printing: Colors

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

• DTI-sponsored stand at Jewellex Africa 2012: apply before 1 May • GIA 4Cs iPhone app now available • MD Eli Avidar: Israeli Diamond Industry is an island of stability • Seda gets SMMEs ready for opportunities in Africa • Christie’s announces sale of American heiress’s jewellery collection

26 . BRAND MANAGEMENT • Fabergé unveils Romanov necklace

18. GEMMOLOGY

• Ferragamo’s passion for precious stones

Wollo opals – a powerful source from Ethiopia

• Recalling the days of the Coupé • Watchmaking masterpiece in new version • Movement manufacturer launches new series • Best-selling collection goes black

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2012

An ornamental stone

SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

APRIL 2012

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2012. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

32. LITTLE GEMS

The industry's only trade journal

On the cover Introducing the HTSE (High Tech Self Energising) collection from Titan. Watches powered

Wollo opals – a powerful source from Ethiopia SA designer at London Fashion Week Forevermark expansion continues with launch in South Africa

by any source of light greater than 200LUX. Watches, so sensitive, that a mere flicker from a candle is enough to trigger them. On the cover is the Sovereign HTSE – 1540KL02 for only R2895.00. Try on any HTSE watch virtually from the App Store. For more information, contact Luxco Importers on: (011) 448-2210 or visit www.luxco.co.za.

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EGL SOUTH AFRICA

SERVICING THE INDUSTRY EGL South Africa, one of the continent’s leading gem grading laboratories, is proud to announce the launch of its new, updated, content-specific and user-friendly website. Available at: www.egl.co.za, it supplies the user with all relevant information on its verification services, as well as its College of Gemology and additional services offered to the trade.

Apart from its certification and grading of diamond, tanzanite and coloured stones, EGL South Africa has been offering diamondgrading courses since 1983. Due to the high demand for training in the diamond sector, EGL made the decision to formally establish the EGL College of Gemology to provide training for the public, jewellers and their sales staff.

Courses currently offered are: • Diamonds and diamond grading.

• Polished diamonds for the retail jewellers.

• Introduction to tanzanite.

• Essentials of coloured stones.

In 2011, EGL South Africa launched its 12-language buyer’s guide booklet, which followed up on the success of the individuallanguage Diamond and Tanzanite buyer’s guide.

This booklet has been designed to aid in-store personnel who are called upon to assist potential buyers from all over the world. It is also a very useful tool for tour guides, who are an integral link in the jewellery sales process.

DIAMOND AND TANZANITE INFORMATION GUIDE

It is compact in size and therefore easy to store or carry, but comprehensively presents the essential information relating to diamonds and tanzanite that is required by the consumer.

These booklets can be branded and more information can be obtained from the EGL office in Johannesburg or Cape Town.

Johannesburg, Suite 410, 4th Floor SA Diamond Centre • Cnr. Main and Philip Street • Tel: +27 11 334 4527 • infoJHB@egl.co.za Cape Town, Suite 704, 7th Floor, 80 Strand • Strand Street • Tel: +27 21 419 8828 • infoCT@egl.co.za

www.egl.co.za

NEWS

EGL president, Guy Margel, passes away EGL worldwide president, Guy Margel, passed away on 7 March at the age of 69. Margel was born in Belgium and completed his gemmological training in the USA in the late 1960s.

In 1973 Margel opened the first European Gemological Laboratory in Antwerp, the first laboratory to do certification of diamonds in Europe, and has served as president ever since.

The laboratory in New York was opened in 1975, followed by Los Angeles in 1978. EGL

South Africa opened in August 1980 and the laboratories in Paris and London opened in 1981 and 1982. Laboratories opened in Tel Aviv, Seoul and Istanbul in the '90s, Mumbai in 2003, Delhi in 2004 and Hong Kong in 2008.

Alan Lowe of EGL South Africa met Margel in 1979 and has been working with him ever since. “Guy was a man with great insight, a sense of humour and a caring attitude towards others,” says Lowe.

Seda gets SMMEs ready for opportunities in Africa It has been said that intra-African trade is the key to unlocking Africa’s growth potential. In line with this assertion, the Small Enterprise Development Agency (Seda) rolled out workshops across the country aimed at helping export-ready small enterprises identify trading opportunities in Africa and learn the ropes of trading in the continent.

These “Doing Business Africa Workshops”, says Seda CEO, Hlonela Lupuwana, brought together export industry experts as well as representatives from African countries to interact with small enterprises. “The workshops were essentially networking sessions where small en-

terprises learnt about the dynamics of trading in Africa with regard to exporting and importing.

“Small enterprises also got first-hand information from representatives of African countries about what opportunities are available in their respective countries and how our small enterprises can take advantage of them,” says Lupuwana. Countries that participated included Botswana, Tanzania, Benin, Mozambique, Zambia and Angola.

The workshops covered topics such as: • Incoterms, freight, customs, etc; • Export processes; • Understanding the global environment; and

Cape Town: Tel 021 510 0770, Fax 021 510 0778 Gauteng: 0861 METALS (0861 638 257) Durban: Cell 082 789 3882

• Incentive schemes.

The main idea behind these workshops was to increase trade between African countries in order to unlock Africa’s growth potential, as Lupuwana explains: “Many countries of the world, especially those in the East, are realising that Africa is the next big world market and, accordingly, have positioned themselves to take full advantage of Africa’s future growth.

Our obligation as an organisation working with small enterprises in South Africa is to ensure that our small enterprises also fully participate and take advantage of these opportunities by contributing to intra-African trade.”

NEWS

Advertising opportunity in Shine/ Skitter 2012/2013 The Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) has once again been offered the opportunity for members to promote their products/ store/brands/collections in the Shine/Skitter jewellery and luxury brand books. The books will be bagged with the December 2012 editions of three proudly South African magazines: Fairlady, Sarie and True Love.

These three titles cover the widest audience of women in South Africa spanning the English, Afrikaans and black South African female market sectors.

The shoots and editorial pages will accompany ideas on jewellery/watches that are available at leading designers, retailers and manufacturers, as well as information on how to go about selecting the appropriate and correct jewellery. It will showcase emerging designers, as well as established and wellrecognised jewellery brands.

Interested parties who book before 30 March and include the Jewellery Council logo on their advertising will receive a 5% discount off the rate card rates in addition to any direct booking discount that may be received from Media24.

To advertise or for a rate card, contact Yvonne Shaff on (021) 439-4907/082-9035641 or email: yvonneshaff@mweb.co.za.

Christie’s announces sale of American Heiress’s jewellery collection

(Above): The Diamond Dealers Club of South Africa held its AGM at the secretariat at Jewel City on 23 February. Issues that were discussed included the Consumer Goods Council, a redesigned website for the club which is currently in process and the New Companies Act. Pictured are (from top): Mark Reichman with Ernie Blom; Manny de Amorim and David Woolf; Jan Nortje, Aron Blom and Mike Ellis.

Christie’s recently announced that it has been entrusted with the sale of an exceptional collection of jewellery from the estate of Huguette M Clark, one of the last great heiresses of America’s Gilded Age. Clark’s jewellery collection, which is believed to have been stored in a bank vault since the 1940s, includes signed Art Deco jewels by Cartier, Dreicer & Co, and Tiffany & Co, including an extremely rare 9ct pink diamond ring and a 20ct D-colour diamond ring. The complete collection of 17 jewels is expected to fetch between US$9-12 million at auction on 17 April at Christie’s New York.

“In the world of fine jewellery, this is truly a fairytale collection,” says Rahul Kadakia, Head of Jewellery for Christie’s Americas. “Opening the vault to find this treasure trove of period jewels from the best French houses of the early 1900s has certainly been one of the most extraordinary moments of my 15-year career here at Christie’s.

The iconic Art Deco design and exceptional craftsmanship of these meticulously preserved jewels are emblematic of the great Gilded Age in American history. We are proud to present this collection from one of the nation’s most storied families as the major highlight of our flagship jewellery auction this spring.”

Thuthuka Jewellery and Product Development Programme at 2012 Design Indaba Expo, Cape Town Four jewellery designers from the Thuthuka Jewellery and Product Development Programme were accepted to participate in the Emerging Creatives programme at the Design Indaba Expo 2012 in Cape Town which took place in early March. The selected students were Thomas Mosala, Siphiwe Motloung, Khulekani Nkala and Sibusiso Buthelezi who are all currently studying at the Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project (EJP).

The Thuthuka Jewellery and Product Development Programme is a partnership between tertiary education facilities, community jewellery schools, the Department of Arts and Culture and independent designers, and is transforming the design abilities of young, talented designers wanting to enter the jewellery trade in South Africa. The programme hosts several

10

structured mentorship-based interventions that partner community jewellery schools such as Ekurhuleni with tertiary facilities such as the University of Johannesburg, and introduces professional industry mentors to the students of the programme. The culmination of the main programme each year has been a showcase exhibition of the students’ jewellery and an award programme that recognises their development in tangible ways.

Says Carola Ross of their inclusion in the Design Indaba: “Thuthuka has developed a marketing strategy that explores other avenues for young designers to apply their creativity.

We are committed to further enhancing these students’ opportunity to make a real living from their skills that reaches beyond the interventions of our more formal mentorship programme.

“These students were selected based on their consistent quality output and having come through the Thuthuka programme over several years. The Design Indaba is arguably the most influential design platform in the country, with an international reach. It was a big step for our students, as well as the programme, to be recognised in this way.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2012

(Above): The Diamond Dealers Club of South Africa (DDC) recently handed over a number of wheelchairs to the South African Police Service to distribute to disadvantaged members of its church community programme. “This is part of the DDC’s social responsibility to give back to the community,” says Mark Reichman, DDC chairman of Charity and Events. This was only one of a number of charity initiatives the club is involved in.

GIA 4Cs iPhone app now available

ORTILABLE

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The Gemmological Institute of America has announced that its 4Cs application (app), released last year for the iPad, is now available for the iPhone. The free app educates and engages consumers about the 4Cs (colour, clarity, cut and carat weight) of diamond quality through videos and interactive tools.

The app explains GIA’s grading scales, how diamond grades affect value, the origins of the carat system, information on fluorescence, diamond treatments and synthetics, as well as a “My Diamond Wish List” for consumers. The app also features direct access to GIA Report Check, a secure online database of GIA grading reports.

Plans are underway for the app to be accessible on additional smartphone devices.

The free GIA 4Cs app for iPhone and iPad is available in English and simplified Chinese.

GJEPC presented Indian Pavilion at Baselworld for 14th consecutive year The Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) hosted the Indian Pavilion at this year’s Baselworld. Handpicked by the GJEPC, 47 exhibitors showcased the best of Indian innovation promoting India as a “design destination” internationally.

“India’s gem and jewellery exports marked an increase of 21% in 2011, while the country also exports 95% of the world’s diamonds, accounting for over 70% of the world’s diamond trade by value,” says Rajiv Jain, GJEPC chairman. “With our participation at Baselworld, the council aimed at increasing the trade intensity of India and enhancing our leadership position in the design arena. This year the exhibits that were showcased portrayed high standards of craftsmanship along with unmatched creativity and promoted India as being the ultimate design destination.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2012

OTTC0105

For more information please e-mail: wkc@wbs.co.za Official Onitsuka Tiger watch distributor (South Africa). www.onitsukatiger-watches.com

NEWS

MD Eli Avidar: Israeli Diamond Industry is an island of stability The Israeli Diamond Industry’s annual press lunch at Baselworld presented topics of interest to the diamond industry, as well as to citizens of the world. The lunch took place at the Basel Convention Centre, in the Osaka – Samarkand Congress Room.

The guest speaker was world-renowned futurist, Prof David Passig, author of The Future Code and 2048 and Head of the Graduate Programme in Information and Communication Technology at Bar-Ilan University in Israel.

In his presentation Passig spoke about the mega-trends that will shape the 21st century. He said: “Contrary to common knowledge, the trend with the greatest impact is neither the scarcity of energy resources nor global warming, but a trend called the demographic winter.” He stressed:

“People are still trapped in the belief that the problem facing humanity is the population explosion.” However, according to Passig, by the mid-21st century, humanity will comprise just half a billion children aged younger than five and approximately 2,5 billion elders aged 65 and older – out of 9 billion people. Passig said that this trend will shape industries and services in far-reaching ways that we are not able to imagine at the moment. He also predicted that the global population will drop to 5-6 billion by the end of the 21st century.

IDI managing director Eli Avidar said that the Israeli Diamond Industry is “an island of stability, resting on strong foundations”.

He said that this was demonstrated by the way the industry bounced back from the world economic crisis, exceeding pre-crisis

polished exports in 2011, when they stood at US$7,2 billion. He noted that while other diamond centres had operated under an expansive credit policy, the Israeli sector had reduced its bank debt from US$2,2 billion in 2006 to US$1,7 billion, testifying to its health and resilience.

Avidar also revealed the industry’s new strategic campaign for 2012. To the existing campaign, “Welcome to Israel”, IDI has now added “where stability reigns”. He said: “We believe that now is the ideal time to do business with the Israeli Diamond Industry – the one trading centre that offers stability in a time of volatility and uncertainty.” Avidar added that the campaign was being introduced in Basel and would be the theme for all marketing efforts in Israel and abroad.

DTI-sponsored stand at Jewellex Africa 2012: apply before 1 May The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA), together with the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI), are inviting small or medium manufacturers who manufacture their goods locally and have the capacity to export the opportunity to apply to exhibit at the DTI-sponsored stand at Jewellex.

Companies with little exports so far are welcome to apply (this includes BEE and nonBEE companies).

All paperwork requirements must be met when submitting an application. Interested parties must also include pictures of their finest jewellery, to give them the best chance to be selected. Only 20 companies can be accommodated.

The following supplementary documents need to be submitted: • Proof of registration of the enterprise in the

•

•

•

• •

form of a CIPRO certificate if a CC or (Pty) Ltd, or a certified copy of your ID document in the case of a sole proprietor.

Valid Original Tax Clearance Certificate. (NB: No photostats or colour copies will be accepted – not even certified copies.)

Comprehensive colour brochure/CD-ROM, photographs or pictures of the relevant products marketed by the company.

Audited and signed financial statements or alternatively bank statements of at least three months.

Copy of your ID document.

Company profile (NOT long business plans), with the following headings: – Name of the entity – Contact details and physical address – Background of the entity – Ownership

– Vision – Mission – Products or services – Conclusion Applications must be submitted before or on 1 May 2012 to the Jewellery Council of SA. The contact details are: Lorna Lloyd/Ivona Heck, tel: (011) 484-5528, physical address: The Hamlet, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown. Postal address: PO Box 1549, Houghton 2041.

Jewellers living in on near Pretoria can handdeliver the forms to: Hilda de Jager, DTI Campus, Reception: Block A (Untangamiri), Corner Esselen and Meintjes Streets, Sunnyside, Pretoria 0002.

If you deliver the document to the DTI, alert Hilda de Jager of the day of delivery. Her contact details are: tel: (012) 394-1332, fax: (012) 3942332, e-mail: HdeJager@thedti.gov.za.

Watch brands honoured with product design award Red Dot has announced the winners of the 2012 Red Dot Design Awards, an international contest recognising excellence in product design in a range of categories, including jewellery and watches.

This year, 1 800 companies and independent designers from 58 countries registered to compete in the contest, a total of 4 515 submissions.

The award is a “seal of quality”, Red Dot said, marking success in product design since 1955.

“The Red Dot Award is not only an excellent marketing tool which generates a high degree of attention – it also serves as an indicator

14

for the creative performance of designers,” Dr Peter Zec, CEO of Red Dot, said.

Only two wristwatches received the title of “Red Dot: Best of the Best” this year in the jewellery/watch category: Ventura Watch SA’s Sparc MGS digital and Les Ateliers Louis Moinet’s Geograph Rainforest.

Jewellery and watch brands receiving a Red Dot Award included Halda Watch Co, Maurice Lacroix SA, Nina Schäfer, Atelier Allure

by Thomas Hauser and more. Rado Watch Co received an honourable mention for its Rado True Thinline timepiece.

Entries were judged by design experts from around the globe and rated on degree of innovation, functionality, formal quality, ergonomics, durability, symbolic content, emotional content, product peripherals, selfexplanatory quality and ecological soundness.

“Companies have realised that investing in design offers considerable added value,” Zec said. The winners will be honoured at a ceremony on 2 July at the Aalto Theatre in Essen. An exhibition of pieces will take place at the Red Dot Design Museum in Essen from 3-29 July. – National Jeweler

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2012

NEWS

GIA provides education grant to University Of Nairobi The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has provided an education grant valued at US$25 000 to the University of Nairobi (UoN) in Kenya. The grantand a Memorandum of Understanding between the institutions enable 20 individuals in Kenya to enrol in GIA’s Accredited Jewelry Professional intensive (AJPi) programme.

UoN, the only institute of higher learning in Kenya, will select 20 individuals from the applicant pool. The five-day class will be held on the UoN campus. GIA will provide the instructor, curriculum and materials. In addition, GIA is gifting two specialised gemmological microscopes to the university.

“We are thankful for GIA’s support to expand gemmological knowledge in our community,” says Prof Norbert Opiyo Akech of UoN. “This is a beneficial collaboration that will equip our local residents with the knowledge to further understand gems and jewellery, which directly relates to and adds value to the mining industry in Kenya.”

The three-course AJPi programme teaches polished diamond quality; how to translate jewellery design, style and manufacturing features into consumer language; the basics of coloured stone identification; how to explain treated, synthetic and imitation stones with full disclosure and jewellery selling techniques.

“It is an honour to work alongside the UoN,” says Donna Baker, president and CEO of GIA. “Our organisations share the goal of better serving local residents of Kenya by fostering the discovery and transmission of gem knowledge and the stimulation of life and cultural development.”

GIA has an established presence in Africa, operating an education campus and laboratory in Botswana and a laboratory in Johannesburg.

In addition, GIA offers diamond, coloured gemstone and jewellery arts education at other facilities in Africa. GIA is accredited by the government of Botswana and has provided classes in Gaborone to further the country’s goals of increasing local employment and added value services from its diamond production.

For more information on applying to the AJPi programme, e-mail: charl.roberts@gia. edu. For more information about GIA education programmes, visit: www.gia.edu.

16

Israeli Diamond Industry presents Lifetime Achievement Award to Nicky Oppenheimer At a festive dinner on 19 March in Tel Aviv, the Israeli Diamond Industry bestowed its highest honour, the Lifetime Achievement Award, upon Nicky Oppenheimer, chairman of De Beers, for his enormous contribution to the world diamond industry and to the Israeli industry in particular.

The event was held in the presence of past and current leaders of the Israeli industry, including Israel Diamond Institute (IDI) chairman Moti Ganz, Israel Diamond Exchange president Yair Sahar, Israel Diamond Manufacturers' Association president Bumi Traub and Israel Diamond Controller Shmuel Mordechai. In addition to Nicky Oppenheimer, De Beers was represented by his son Jonathan, De Beers CEO Philippe Mellier and DTC CEO Varda Shine.

Upon presenting the award to Nicky

heritage of honesty, integrity and adherence to the highest standards.

Accepting the award, Oppenheimer, said: “I see this award as an honour not for me, but for the Oppenheimer family, past, present and future. From the time my grandfather moved to South Africa, the Oppenheimer family has had diamonds in its blood… You’ve done me, Jonathan and my ancestors an unbelievable honour.”

Referring to his decision to sell his family’s stake in De Beers to Anglo American, Oppenheimer said: “It comes to the point when we can step aside. It is not easy at all...

In my head I knew it was the right thing, although my heart might feel differently…

We know that we leave the Israeli industry and De Beers in good shape… Even if we are

Oppenheimer, IDI managing director Eli Avidar said: “This unique award is of the utmost significance to our industry. It represents our supreme appreciation of one who has dedicated his or her life’s work to advancing the industry that we hold so dear.” He added that the award was in recognition of Oppenheimer’s vision, courage and inspiration, continuing a family

not invested in the diamond industry, we will follow it with great expectations.”

Earlier in his visit, Oppenheimer met with Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, accompanied by Ganz, Mellier and Shine.

Netanyahu told the group that he regards diamonds as important to the economy and as a drawing point for Jewish diamantaires.

Alrosa outlines government privatisation requirements Alrosa’s supervisory board outlined its requirements for the privatisation of stateowned shares in the company, stressing that government will retain control of the Russian diamond mining company’s activities.

The board stated that the Russian Federation and the Republic of Yakutia should each retain a stake of 25% plus one share in Alrosa. The Russian Federation currently holds 50,9% and the Yakutia Regional Councils hold 40%, while the remaining 9% have been free-floated on the Russian Trading System (RTS) exchange.

In February, Alexei Uvarov, the head of the Russian Ministry for Economic Development’s property relations department, said Alrosa was excluded from the government’s list of strategic companies, indicating that a privatisation of the state’s shares was pending as a precursor for an initial public offering (IPO). Uvarov added that the government planned to sell 7% of the federal government’s stake and 7% of the Yakut government’s holding.

At a recent meeting, the board approved these guidelines as key parameters for privati-

sation and added that the possible terms of sale of these shares would be subject to relevance and readiness of Alrosa’s financial statements for the first half of 2012 or for the full year.

The board stressed that the full withdrawal of the Russian Federation from Alrosa’s authorised capital would result in the company needing to redeem the US$1 billion, 10year Eurobonds, which were placed in 2010, from their holders. “[This] will deteriorate Alrosa’s macro-economic indicators, including the progress rate and completeness of the investment programme,” the board explained.

Analysts at Metropol Investment Financial Company noted that recent developments at Alrosa, including government plans to privatise its shares, indicate that an IPO is still in the works. “In our view, the news signals long-awaited progress in the government’s privatisation plan and towards a future IPO, while Alrosa’s management recently confirmed that at present it is proceeding with internal pre-IPO preparations, as planned,” Metropol stated. – Rapaport

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GEMMOLOGY

Strangely, the rich history of Ethiopia makes no reference to opal, possibly because precious metals were considered more important. The sudden appearance of Wollo opal (also spelt Wello or Welo) three years ago is just as strange and mysterious. Initially ignored in its ignimbrite host (a rock formed by the consolidation and deposition of volcanic material), it quickly became a star after its début at the Sainte Marie show in France and then later featured at the Tucson gem shows. Mezezo opal has prepared the ground for a market eager for new things, but with its attendant negative critics. Before being accepted as a good opal by its “elder sisters” from other continents, Wollo opal should be recognised as a new type because it can absorb or lose water, affecting the transparency and play-of-colour when wet, but recovering all its qualities when dry.

The discovery of gem opal in Wollo has not been clearly reported. No one person claims its discovery.

Miners and shepherds share access to the steep slopes of the Tsehay Mewcha gorges. As early as 2006, the authors (Francesco Mazzero, Thomas Cenki and Eyassu Bekele) had already cut some opal specimens that were uncommonly hard and resistant to crazing and of different external aspects compared with opals from North Shewa. This new material was mixed in with Mezezo opals that these same authors had worked with for years. In February 2007, Mazzero saw small similar rough opal in Lalibela, 70 km north of Wegal Tena, but the source had not been revealed at that time.

In March 2008, a 400 g parcel of this new rough was cut in Eyaopal’s workshop at Addis Ababa. From mid-2008 to now, the production has increased. The source was officially revealed by the end of the same year – a place named Tsehay Mewcha (Sun Gate) near Wegel Tena, North Wollo. Opalinda and Eyaopal presented 350 cut opals at the 2009 Tucson show along with rough. A few Ethiopian dealers brought around 30 kg of rough at the same show. The Wollo opal was revealed to the world!

Wollo opals – a powerful source from Ethiopia Abundant play-of-colour opal has been mined since early 2008 in the area around Wegal Tena in the North Wollo Zone of Ethiopia and the area is a major opal producer. A great part of the production is stable and suitable for jewellery.

Most of the opals from the Wollo Province are white and translucent, but some are yellow to orange, while red and brown opals are also mined. Many opals are hydrophane, ie when dropped into water, they absorb it and become more transparent. Some opals display unusual and attractive optical features such as digit patterns and rainbow diffraction patches.

Opal was formed during the Oligocene epoch (30 million years ago) in a soil developed on weathered volcanic ash and many samples contain vegetal fossils.

Several of the authors organised two field trips to this deposit: one in November 2010, in order to investigate the geology of the deposit, and another in December 2010, to teach mining safety to the miners’ groups.

History The presence of opal in the Earth’s crust can be found in numerous places. However, while some occurrences are inaccessible, others are still likely to be discovered. The discovery of Ethiopian opal, which appeared on the market in the mid-1990s, proves that surprises can occur. This country, of high plateaux and giant

18

valleys is shaped by rift and volcanoes. Opal is hosted by Oligocene and Miocene lavas, which cover hundreds of thousands of square kilometres in Ethiopia. Conditions propitious for opal formation are scattered over huge regions.

The presence of opal is mentioned in all massifs, from Gondar to Bale and from Shewa to Wollo.

Today, however, documented opal outcrops and exploited deposits are limited.

The first Ethiopian opal on the market was seen in Nairobi in 1993. Knowledge about the deposit’s first discovery is still undetermined. Its rediscovery is attributed to Telahun Yohannes, a geology engineer. The stones come, in particular, from Yita Ridge between Mezezo and Molale in the administrative zone of North Shewa, in the form of rhyolitic nodules.

These nodules almost always contain opal, often without play-of-colour (common opal).

However, the proportion of precious opal is very high when compared with the production of other opal deposits on Earth.

Production Production reached only tenths of a kilogram in 2008, hundreds of kilograms in 2009 and thousands of kilograms in 2010. On 14 June 2011, the website www.2Merkato.com reported

Wollo opal should be recognised as a new type because it can absorb or lose water.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2012

GEMMOLOGY

that the Ethiopian Ministry of Mines claimed that over 4,4 million dollars were obtained from the exportation of 14 000 kg of opal over the previous 11 months. This significant volume includes mainly low-grade opal, the high-grade part being estimated at less than 5%. Among 27 countries buying Ethiopian opal, India, China and the USA are the leading customers. The exports consist mainly of rough opal since exportation fees reach US$8 per carat for cut opals and only very little of production is cut in Ethiopia.

Geology At an altitude of 3 200 m, the plateau ends in a series of volcanic rocks (about 3 km in thickness, of which 350 m cover the opal-rich level). Water has carved these volcanic layers into deep canyons, which drain major rainfalls in July and August westward, towards the Abai (the Blue Nile).

There are numerous small deposits of opals around Wegal Tena. They are all found at a single stratigraphic level and hence all formed at the same time. This layer belongs to a thick sequence of volcanic ash rich in silica called ignimbrites, forming a volcanic tuff. The ash was emitted 30 million years ago (Oligocene epoch) by volcanoes roughly similar to Mount St Helens in the USA or Pinatubo in the Philippines.

Here, ash covers a very large area that is several hundreds of kilometres wide and the sequence is more than 400 m thick. However, the opal-bearing layer is only 1-2 m thick.

In contrast with the rest of the sequence, it has been strongly weathered into clays and shows numerous traces of biological activity – roots, tubes, plant fossils, etc. Opals themselves often contain plant fossils, or fill in and replace cavities left by the decomposition of plants.

Fossils trapped in opal are very well preserved and contain some remaining organic carbon, which suggests that opal formed while these plants were alive. The authors propose that soil developed during a pause in the emission of volcanic ash and that vegetation then developed in this soil. Stagnant water weathered the ash into clays, liberating silica. Opal precipitated when the silica concentration became too high, embedding the plants that lived at the bottom.

The discontinuous deposit reflects a gentle topography of the surface during this epoch and opal formed in small depressions only, ie where water accumulated. After opal formation, abundant ash (hundreds of metres thick) was emitted and covered the deposit.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2012

This formation now forms a plateau at high altitude (about 3 000 m above sea level) that is eroded by large and deep canyons, forming beautiful cliffs. The opal-bearing layer outcrops at the abrupt flanks of some of these steep canyons.

Gemmology A large part of the opal found in the Wegel Tena area is play-of-colour. Most samples show all spectral colours, from violet to red, although some are dominated by one or another spectral colour. Some are transparent and others opaque, but most are translucent.

Whatever the play-of-colour, the body colour ranges from dark brown (chocolate variety) to completely colourless. Most are very light to colourless and most of these opals are hydrophane, ie the weight increases when the opal is immersed in water for a while.

This hydrophane character is most often accompanied by a change of transparency – they turn from opaque-translucent to more translucent-transparent. This phenomenon is totally reversible. The play-of-colour can generally, but not always, be reinforced by this change.

Some specimens suffer from this treatment and crack during or just after immersion.

Many others, however, are remarkably resistant and can be immersed and dried as many times as desired.

The most exciting inclusions found in these opals are the remains of plant fossils. Usually they form regular, light brown tubes, but many other inclusions have been documented, which contributes to the understanding of opal formation. These are pyrite, cinnabar, hollandite, rutile and many iron oxides and hydroxides.

The specific gravity of Wegel Tena opals ranges from 1,74-2,00. During measurements, the samples were immersed in water. Some showed significant gain in weight, up to 8% more than the initial sample. This is related to the porosity of these samples; therefore the authors measured the indices of refraction on only a few. They measured an RI of approximately 1,42-1,43. These values are relatively typical for opal, although a little low.

The luminescence of opals from Wegal Tena is quite variable, but typical for opals. It ranges in colour from bluish-white to greenish-white, yellow and green. It ranges in intensity from inert to strong and all brown samples or zones are inert. The fluorescence is a mix of intrinsic silica surface-related violet-blue emissions and extrinsic uranium-related green emissions. The

latter is often better visible in shortwave.

Chemical composition measurements revealed a relatively high barium content in white opal (144-226 ppm, by weight) as well as strontium (128-162 ppm) and rubidium (49-73 ppm).

It is surprising for opals formed in volcanic rocks to always contain less than 100 ppm of barium compared with opals from sedimentary ones (containing from 100-300 ppm). In addition to silica, the authors detected a significant proportion of aluminum and minor amounts of calcium (0,05-0,06%), sodium (Na: up to 0,40%), potassium (K: 0,20-0,48%) and iron (Fe: up to 0,36%). Iron was not detected in white samples. These compositions are typical for opal.

In general, the vivid spectral colours that make opal precious are due to the regular arrangement of minute silica spheres into a tri-dimensional network that diffracts visible light. In opal from Wollo, several remarkable optical features are occasionally observed: • Some show elongated, rounded, parallel domains of play-of-colour opal, forming a feature somewhat resembling fingers, which the authors call “digit patterns”.

Such digits are commonly observed in opals from Mezezo, Shewa and Ethiopia. Digits are rare in other opals. The digit patterns share some similarities with the columnar structure of synthetic opals, but there is always some opal between the “fingers” in these natural opals, whereas columns in synthetic opals are juxtaposed and poly gonal in section.

• Others show very vivid diffraction points (and not patches, as usually observed) that move all around the stone when the light or the stone is moved. This indicates that the network of silica spheres is continuous over the whole stone, sometimes over more than 1 cm. Such specimens are true “optical crystals”.

• Still others show the whole rainbow spectrum of colour diffraction in each of the patches, whereas usually only one single homogeneous diffraction colour is observed in a single patch. The authors call such specimens “rainbow opals”.

Reprinted with permission from InColor, Summer 2011, Issue 17 Article by: Benjamin Rondeau, Emmanuel Fritsch and Yves Bodeur from the University of Nantes (France); Francesco Mazzero and Thomas Cenki from Opalinda (France); Eyassu Bekele from Eyaopal (Ethiopia); Dereje Ayalew from the Addis Ababa University (Ethiopia); Benedicte Cenki-Tok from the University of Montpellier (France); and Jean-Pierre Gauthier from the Centre de Recherches Gemmologiques (Nantes, France).

19

GEMS AND JEWELLERY GEMS A LERY L E N D W GEMS D AND JEWELLERY J EWELLE NThe SJoE A book RY S uAfrican afrnicdHandbook th H A M The South n a E a n Handb ic G h Afr ut

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scene around

(Above): Risuna Mayimele with Kgomotso and Calvin Christopher; Pam Thomson, Paulette Maingard, Dave Rosen and Mary Jane Waite; Stephen Lussier, CEO of Forevermark

Scene around (Above): Maria Suarez, Tracey Drury, Jay Olivier and Rhoda Isak; Ali Bowes, Brett Parker and Garda Pardoe

Forevermark expansion continues with launch in South Africa Forevermark officially launched the brand in South Africa with diamond distributor and jewellery manufacturer, Caratco. Under the agreement, Jewel Africa, Caratco’s retail outlet, is now the first exclusive authorised Forevermark jeweller in South Africa, with others to be announced imminently.

Caratco is confident that Forevermark will be an exceptional addition to its portfolio of brands and products and is proud to be the exclusive distributor for Forevermark in South Africa, the home of the brand’s parent company, the De Beers Group.

(Above): Models displayed striking jewellery pieces at the official launch; Alika Visser with Shalome Killerby

(Above): Luca Senatore, Kate Naughton and Carl Ungerer; Andrea Nagel with Sarah Langley and Estelle Cooper; Thoko Modisakeng

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2012

21

Images courtesy Simon Deiner/SDR Photo

Jewellery Design

SA designer, Kevin Friedman, at London Fashion Week A distinctive collection from South African jewellery designer Kevin Friedman was featured at the Ubuntu International project show at London Fashion Week which took place from 17-22 February. Friedman’s collection was on the ramp on 19 February and received much exposure in the media.

The Ubuntu International Project is aimed at developing, promoting and exporting a new South African design-led aesthetic, the Ubuntu International brand that fuses the techniques and traditions of the South African crafts industry with South African contemporary fashion and accessories.

Following the success of last year's début showcase of three South African designers, this season Ubuntu International Project threw a wider net by introducing modern heritage aesthetics from South Africa, Uganda and Nigeria. The cornerstone of the second

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2012

Ubuntu showcase will be the three Rs so aptly embodied and coined by Jose Hendo: Reduce, Reuse and Recycle. ”I was invited to take part in the event two weeks before the show so it was a really crazy, yet exciting, fortnight,” says Kevin Friedman.

All the pieces in the collection were manufactured in South Africa. “I found objects such as golf balls, old Apple computers and vintage African pieces which made up the core of the collection,” explains Friedman.

“It was an amazing opportunity to rep-

resent South Africa at London,” he adds.

“I went through a thought process and started with the needs of South Africa: education, literacy and communication – all encompassed in the computer parts. The second section was based on the contrasts of affluence, for which I used the golf balls and old money pieces. From there I tried to portray fears, religion and beliefs.”

The pieces from the collection which were on display at London Fashion Week will be available at Friedman’s studio in Norwood, Johannesburg.

Friedman has also been involved in a number of community projects. “I’ve been involved in rural craft since 1991 and set up a project for the Department of Trade and Industry co-operatives in seven provinces with the nine major cultures of South Africa. These experiences have definitely influenced the African quality of my work.”

Friedman is currently working on a number of retail shows, with the most exciting scheduled for December in the Caribbean.

23

MARKET WATCHING

SAJN speaks to Roland Kopel and David Mayers of Emanuel’s Jewellers in Nelson Mandela Square, Johannesburg.

The local retail environment has slowed down over the past few years.

“People are more careful and conservative about spending money on luxury goods,” says Roland Kopel, shareholder in Emanuel’s Jewellers. “But there is a growth in sales of men’s timepieces, as opposed to those of ladies.”

Sadly, this is not news to most retail watch and jewellery outlets but, fortunately, Emanuel’s is located in a very favourable position at Nelson Mandela Square in Sandton City. This is a tourist hot-spot and the store attracts overseas visitors who are quick to observe the advantage of purchasing luxury goods here with the exchange rate in their favour. “It is cheaper for them to buy a watch in South Africa, so they do take advantage of this,” says Kopel. Conversely, locals are at a disadvantage and this market has shrunk considerably.

It is very important to sell your product based on current world prices, as our South African clientele travel and shop around overseas, comparing prices. The poor trading conditions in Europe have not helped us here, as some local jewellers are discounting to achieve stock turnaround, says Kopel. “The offer to our clients must cover all segments of brands and satisfy potential clients, while simultaneously offering personalised service,” he believes.

Tourists are also captivated by an attractive window display and in this respect Emanuel’s has decided views – primarily that “less is more”. “Don’t overcrowd,” is general manager David Mayers' maxim. While he and Kopel employ professionals to do the job, they are in the main guided by the brands themselves, who supply display material.

One attraction is the mechanical watch, particularly those with a see-through caseback covered by a sapphire crystal, as watch-lovers enjoy observing the watch movement ticking away. The current trend for comfortable rubber straps is proving popular, particularly among sporting types as it obviates sweating and a possible allergic

The retail outlook

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2012

reaction to a leather band or metal bracelet.

Contrary to the current trend of the under-25s not owning a watch, Emanuel’s believe that in some cases it has become a status symbol for them to wear a good timepiece.

The store's favourable position, as well as other factors such as good service from staff, which also encourages recommendation, contribute to its success, as do prominent billboards and magazine advertisements and in these aspects this is accomplished in tandem with the brands themselves. “It works,” says Kopel, who plans hand-in-hand with the highend brands such as Richemont.

A popular choice is Frederique Constant’s Heart-Beat design, particularly with sporting types.

“We guide them towards the right product,” comments Mayers, who has found that sports watches are the most popular choice, particularly among men.

Emanuel’s currently has a staff complement of five who play an important role in actual sales.

They are given specialised training – this, too, in conjunction with the brands.

Staff are chosen for their positive approach – negativity is frowned upon and this is taken into account when selecting applicants. David and Larry Mayers have a passion for selling

and for imparting their knowledge of products to clients. They also realise that the customer is the most important person in the store, according to Mayers, whether he is buying a top-end model or nothing. So they emphasise this approach to their staff.

Staff motivation is another important factor, especially during quiet periods. While it is expected that the staff work hard, they also need time off, particularly as today a watch and jewellery store is a seven-days-a week, 12-hours a-day job, which is a concern of Kopel’s. “Staff are like family as we spend so much time together and respect must be mutual.” On these aspects the managing partners agree.

Finally, words of advice from Kopel are that while competition is important in the retail trade, discounting kills the profit margin as well as the product itself. “Trading will be tough in the coming year and retailers need to be cautious by not carrying excessive stocks and in replenishing items,” he warns.

“Buying over the Internet has increased, but this is risky for the consumer as he pays before viewing the merchandise, which might be second-hand or a fake. It may seem cheaper, but in the end the customer loses out on the warranty and authenticity of the product,” Kopel cautions.

(Left): David Mayers of Emanuel's Jewellers.

25

BRAND MANAGEMENT

Movement manufacturer launches new series Ronda AG of Southern Switzerland has launched a new series, the Startech 3500 which includes the first-ever Swiss-made quartz chronographs with counters at 6-912 and the 6-12 o’clock positions. These will enable manufacturers to supplement their classic look with further models of a more innovative and unusual design.

This series of movements in a size of 10-1/2 x 12-1/2 has also been developed for use in elegant ladies' watches and rectangular cases, as well as men’s watches.

This is achieved by placing the opposing counters 7,5 mm from the centre, giving sizeable scope for the dial design.

Both movements feature a small seconds hand in addition to the date function. The movement manufacturer has noticed an increased demand for more complex products such as chronographs and multi-functions.

The Ronda Time Centre is a subsidiary service with a global customer base for whom it assembles watches under the Swiss-made label.

New diver’s watch collection for men Thirty years after its first release, the film classic Das Boot still inspires fans over the world. Now the original Das Boot watch is available.

Swiss watch manufacturer MontresCharmex SA, producer of CX Swiss Military Watch, CharmexofSwitzerland and now also the Das Boot watch, is known for its highquality mechanical intricacies and highperformance timepieces.

“No other worldwide brand is more authentic in a diver’s watch collection than Das Boot,” believes MontresCharmex SA. To the present day, no watches have been produced under this brand name. The reason for this lay primarily with

the demands made by the legal owner, Bavaria Sonor, with regard to potential manufacturers.

The competence of Manfred and Frank Bürgin, the owners of MontresCharmex SA, persuaded the persons responsible at Bavaria Sonor to support the entire range. This was the start of a highly unusual watch collection, created over 30 years after the premiére of a unique film led to its worldwide success.

Its popular chrono nero/red The Captain collection features a stainless steel case with black PVD coating and sapphire crystal. It is water-resistant to 20 ATM and comes with a black or red genuine rubber strap.

Best-selling collection goes black Trendy watch brand Saint Honore of Paris has presented its best-selling Opera Eclair line in a new guise. The Swiss-made brand has decided that “Black is Beautiful” and has dressed the latest version, Opera Black Éclair, accordingly.

Using a special technique that creates a dazzling effect of diamond pavé, applied to the centre of the dial, this illuminates the black dial. In addition to this exclusive feature, the dial has Roman numeral hour markers and six diamonds plus a date window at 4 o’clock, all these features

protected by a sapphire crystal.

The round case which is available in two sizes, either 33 mm or 37 mm, is PVD-coated stainless steel.

Although unique in its own right, the Opera Black Éclair remains true to the Éclair styling – which is the brand’s best-selling design – through its dial and bezel.

The black strap has an ingenious feature which enables the strap to be replaced easily.

(Left): Saint Honore’s newest version of its bestselling design, the Opera Éclair, in black is illuminated by diamond pavé.

Fabergé unveils Romanov necklace Fabergé has presented the Romanov necklace, which is a magnificent contemporary emerald and diamond collar that was inspired by a historic design from the House of Fabergé.

This creation is a regal reworking of an early Fabergé jewel, recreated and contemporised from an archival gouache design dated 1885.

The Romanov necklace was conceived

by Fabergé’s in-house design team in collaboration with a leading Paris-based jewellery workshop. The complex and challenging design process took two months, followed by 14 months of intense and meticulous workmanship by artisans, goldsmiths and gem-setters. The composition was conjured from a dramatic collection of 79 emeralds of exceptional quality, totalling 186,85 carats, featuring specially-cut sugar-

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loaf cabochons and a single pear-shaped drop of 30,65 carats. The emeralds, which Fabergé confirmed were ethical and ecologically sound, were sourced directly from Gemfields’ Zambian mines and handselected by Fabergé’s creative director, Katharina Flohr. The emeralds were perfectly matched in colour and character.

Each rough emerald was then cut to the very particular specifications of the design.

The Romanov necklace is designed to spread over the shoulder and neckline in a silky open-work trellis of sumptuous emeralds, white round diamonds and rose diamonds, shimmering with a soft,

vintage lustre. In all, the necklace is set with 2 225 gemstones, totalling 363,48 carats, including 1 991 round white diamonds, totalling 98,15 carats, 151 rose-cut diamonds, totalling 43,29 carats, with one rose diamond of 0,67 carats and a pear-shaped rose cut of 3,48 carats. The necklace was crafted in white gold.

The necklace was constructed in three separate parts and can be transformed and worn in several different ways. The choker detaches from the collar, allowing the two necklaces to be worn separately, while the choker can be worn alone or with the emerald drop pendant. – Rapaport

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2012

BRAND MANAGEMENT

Ferragamo’s passion for precious stones

A new collection from fashion-orientated brand Salvatore Ferragamo named Poema defines the brand’s style and elegance, creativity and passion for colour.

Ladies' models are conversation pieces and come in three versions: the first in a 34 mm stainless steel case has a full pavé of blue sapphires crossed by a luminous trail of diamonds; the second is in an IP gold case set with rubies and diamonds and the third, in a stainless steel case, has a pavé of diamonds interspersed with yellow and blue sapphires, rubies and purple sapphires and tsavorites. All are a tribute to Salvatore Ferragamo’s passion for precious stones.

The straps are in prestige leather in vibrant colours of alligator nuanced to match the dials, the bezels are set with diamonds and the highprecision Swiss movement is visible through the sapphire crystal case-back. The automatic model has a white dial with Roman numerals at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions and the strap is

in crocodile-print patent leather in Ferragamo’s hallmark red. This model is in a limited edition of 100 numbered pieces.

A quartz version has a black or silver guilloche dial with a diamond set at 9 o’clock.

The case is in warm tones of gold and in a 25 mm mini version set on a white, back or purple crocodile-print strap or on a two-toned stainless steel bracelet.

Also available is a men’s model – this is sporty chic in a classic three-counter chronograph in a large-size stainless steel or IP gold case. This has a guilloche dial with tachymetric scale on the flange. There is a choice of a soft leather strap in a selection of fashionable colours or a two-tone stainless steel bracelet.

Other details are a black onyx cabochon on the crown and lugs and a double “ganicino”shaped second hand counterweight. All models in the new collection have a sapphire crystal. The Poema collection is Swiss-made and the brand is produced by the Timex Group Luxury Division.

Watchmaking masterpiece in new version The Paris Royale collection from French brand Pequinet, formerly only available in gold (yellow, white and red), has now been produced in a 316L stainless steel version in a range of four models.

Equipped with the Calibre Royale which features multiple integrated components – a world first – it has a direct winding barrel drum driven with force distribution via a central axis, an 88-hour power reserve indicator, three-disc large day and date window with triple instantaneous jump, correction via the crown with no prohibited time range. It vibrates at 26 000 per hour, has high-inertia large balance with compensating screws and dual direction automatic winding. All this

makes for a highly efficient system.

The case is decorated with diamondpolished finish, the middle hoop polished/satin finished with micro-blasted grooves, its body with overlaid lug arms. The bezel is screwed, the crown steel and the black opaline dial has rhodium-plated overlays in steel and Arabic numerals. Also featured are small seconds in snail pattern and faceted windows.

These features are protected by a nonreflective sapphire crystal, as is the case-back and the timepiece is water-resistant to 5 ATM. The watch is mounted on a large-scaled black alligator strap which is beaded and handstitched, the buckle in steel with Fleurs de Lys logo in relief.

Recalling the days of the Coupé Gucci timepieces have introduced two new men’s designs, the Coupé collection, of which the features recall the retro look of the Coupé sports cars. This is a new direction for Gucci design.

The square case has rounded corners which give the design its retro perspective, while the name "Coupé" adds an authentic retro aesthetic. Adding to this theme are the leather straps of calfskin which are inspired by the interiors of racing cars. Outsize numerals on the dial are reminiscent of a vintage speedometer.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2012

These two new models introduce colours of classic beige and grey, with each timepiece sporting a beige or grey calfskin strap with cream over-stitching. This is complemented by a dial in matching tones of brown or anthracite.

The case in brushed stainless steel encircles a dial brimming with Gucci signature features – a diamond pattern at the centre, Gucci greenred-green web stripe at 3 o’clock, Gande date at 12 o’clock, small seconds and a swiss-made stamp at 6 o’clock.

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BRAND MANAGEMENT

Celebrating an icon It is 80 years since Jaeger-LeCoultre released its iconic Reverso watch. The anniversary of this truly remarkable, classic timepiece was celebrated at a red-carpet event accompanied by a musical programme with 800 guests – including the brand’s ambassadors – in Paris towards the end of 2011.

The most prominent feature of the Reverso, originally designed as a sports watch, as its name implies, is that the wearer can expose its reverse side. It became timeless in various guises, as an example of the art of watchmaking. It was worn by Britain’s King Edward VIII (later the Duke of Windsor), who had the royal crest inscribed thereon and by aviator Amelia Earhart on her first solo flight, for which it was also suitably engraved.

The iconic watch was born in Paris in March 1931 and a patent taken out for the invention of a timepiece capable of sliding on itself and

flipping over – a real innovation which earned it a place in the watchmaking hall of fame.

By sliding a thumb across the dial, the watch could be flipped sideways out of the socket in its case and reversed to face inward. Thus it was protected by the case-back.

Legend has it that the idea was born in India on the polo fields where a forceful ball could strike the fragile dial of the watch on a player’s wrist and shatter it (the watch, not the wrist!). By reversing the case, this could be obviated via the protection of the hard case-back.

The design of the Reverso has changed a number of times since those early days, with the introduction of various innovations, but it has

retained its elegant rectangular shape which contains the sliding pivotal movement and its style has remained traditional.

The case, too, remains true to the original – the back a plain surface suitable for engraving, be it for personal identification or a date to be remembered.

The celebratory occasion was marked by a “Tribute to 1931” watch, as well as a new minute repeater chiming watch.

The present-day company is based in Le Sentier, Switzerland and has a long tradition of supplying movements and parts to other prestigious watch companies of high-end brands. Since 1996 it has been a fully-owned subsidiary of the Richemont Group.

The times they are a-changing Why would a distributor of a house brand choose a name like Tomato for a watch?

“It’s off-the-wall, cutting-edge and would appeal to the age group we are targeting,” responds Colin Biddle, director of S Bacher & Co, which produces and markets the local brand.

The targeted age group is very young teens, early 20s and early 30s who know the image they want to project. Their main preoccupation is their social life, they are confident and outgoing and not afraid to experiment with fashion and life in general, he believes.

Tomato has defined itself as a watch brand that is always hot on the heels of the trendsetters. The attitude of its wearer is: “My Tomato watch says a great deal about me, that I’m cool, right here right now and right where it’s happening.”

According to Biddle, the brand is moving to the next level and currently projecting a new image with a new logo, which is clearer and bolder to enhance the image and character of the brand. This is in line with the current trend for the bold look in watches, which remains popular. To emphasise this, the colours are strong, although black and white continue to make a statement as projected by the fashion houses.

These colours will be implemented by the brand’s new point-of-sale material, as well as Tomato’s website, which is under construction

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2012

right now. To implement the new look, packaging has been redesigned and is coloured and linear with clean lines.

While it is usually women who follow the fashion, it is steadily becoming the norm for men to do so as well, Biddle has observed.

This has manifested itself in the upswing of men’s fashion watches as males become aware of trends. They use their watch to make a statement and are choosing colour and bold designs to impart this.

“The days of sentimentality – wearing Dad’s or Grandpa’s old gold watch – have passed, as has the practice of buying one watch to last a lifetime. Men were in a comfort zone, but are now exploring the fashionable side by owning more than one watch,” he notes.

(Above): Tomato sports a new bold and colourful look.

New necklace joins Manhattan collection A new necklace, in red gold, is joining the Manhattan collection available from Mathon Paris since 2007. This line, inspired by Art Deco, evokes streamlined New York skyscrapers, symbolised by the baguettes of fine stones.

The central motif of this collection resides in the alternating baguettes and bezel-setting round diamonds.

The geometry of the chain is here fractured by a triple row of chains enriched with facetted balls made of rhodolites, amethysts, white topazes and pink pearls.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2012

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LITTLE GEMS

Jadeite is an ornamental stone which was used for the finest objects and part of a religious cult for carving mystical figures and symbols, as well as for grave furnishing for high-ranking members of the imperial family Today so-called “mutton-fat” jade – named for its white marble-like consistency – which is found in nuggets, can achieve US$3 000 an ounce, which is a 10-fold increase from a decade ago. This is due to its significance and the rising middle class in China.

India is home to a 1,5 m-high sculpture which is carved entirely out of jade. It is the largest sculpture in the world made from a single jade rock. The use of jade as a gemstone was a long-term tradition in Korea.

The term "jade" is applied to two different metamorphosed rocks that are made up of different silicate minerals – jadeite and nephrite. Jadeite is a sodium and aluminiumrich substance, the name of which is derived from the French word "l’jade". The Spanish named it "pieda da ijada" as it is reputed to be able to cure ailments of the loins and kidneys so they gave it a Spanish name which, translated, means “loin stone”.

Known to exist for 7 000 years when in prehistoric times it was used for hard-stone carvings, it was not until the 15th century that interest was shown in this material as a precious stone which indicated wealth, as it was quite rare.

In 1803 jade was recognised by French mineralogists as consisting of two different materials – jadeite and nephrite. It was difficult, however, to differentiate between them, which may account for the word “jade” being used as a description for both.

Nephrite is a micro-crystalline interlocking fibrous material of the calcium magnesium iron-rich mineral series. The higher the iron contained therein, the greener the colour.

Mutton-fat nephrite is a creamy-white colour, whereas jadeite has more colour variations.

Among jadeites, the rarer, the prized variety is emerald-green, especially in its transparent

An ornamental stone

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In the history of the arts of the Chinese Empire, jade has a special significance comparable with that of gold and diamonds in the Western world. Alice Weil looks at the history of this ornamental stone. version, although varieties of blue, black and red are also found. Each of the varieties has a different meaning – back jade is believed to give protection from negative vibes and red is the most stimulating of the colours.

Jadeite has more or less the same hardness as quartz, while nephrite is softer. It is tough and resistant because of the tight growth of the grains and its felt-like structure. Imperial jade from Burma (Myanmar) is a variety dyed emerald-green with chrome, of which the edges are transparent. This variety is the most desired of all, while translucent emerald-green jadeite has been the most prized both in historic and modern times.

Jade artefacts excavated from prehistoric sites are simple ornaments with beads, buttons and tubular shapes. It was also used for axe heads, knives and other weapons.

But as metal-working techniques became available, its beauty made it more valuable for ornaments and decorative objects. It can be worked with quartz or garnet sand and polished with bamboo or even ground jade.

Jade is often used in modern jewellery

for rings and necklaces. Green jade is the most common for rings and symbolises serenity. These rings represent love and are of sentimental value. A gift of a ring containing green jade is considered a token from the heart which brings wisdom to the wearer, providing protection and attracting prosperity.

Jade can be enhanced, although artificial enhancement does not necessarily change the stone’s integrity. When this is done, it is sometimes known as “stabilising”, but the degree of enhancement is different from colour and texture treatment and does not affect the quality.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2012

EPHRAIM ZION of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime.

Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.

What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.

A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.

What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.

All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it.

Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond without a GIA report?

Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world.

People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.

Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU