JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine • Spring 2021

SPRING 2021

Officially endorsed by the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA)

GOING GAGA OVER GUCCI © 2021. METRO-GOLDWYN-MAYER PICTURES INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Available in 9ct, 18ct & Platinum

DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER

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Thelma West

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CONTENTS 6

Spring it on!

Colour, colour and more colour for SS21

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Homegrown Throw away your khaki and wear your fynbos

Bedazzle Me Pretty

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CONGRATS!

All that jazz Our seasonal storyboard of #jzaontrend favourites

Sing the bling Fashion accessory brand Era by DJZinhle hits the high notes

To Benedict Winkler, winner of the JZA/ Tsogo Sun competition.

Have a terrific time enjoying your prize!

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Eye see you Good karma vibes are a powerful creative force

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Costume party Fun and flirty is the “new lipstick”

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Enamel pop Quirky and full of

Ronkee Nedd

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Diamonds on your doorstep The Cape Town Diamond Museum re-opens – and is a must-see

Down to the wire A South African wildlife project makes jewellery a unique story to wear

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Dare to be different Artisan handcrafted jewellery for the daring – and it’s RSA-made

A matter of time Get your watch bling on with this exciting brand

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African adventure Meet Kenyan jeweller and applied artist Ami Doshi Shah

personality

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JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

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Now serving Gelato is the flavour of the season. Taste it!

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Retail therapy A homegrown selection to enchant, inspire and, of course, buy. It’s so therapeutic!

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Rings of desire Lightweight, multiple patterns and styles, and wallet-friendly… what’s not to love?

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The men event A look at what ontrend guys are wearing – at work and play Nature’s jewellery box Super-charge your inner being with gemstones Q&A We take five with Adine Lutz from Ajanta Afrika gems

Managing Director Imraan Mahomed imraan@isikhova.co.za Creative Director Joanne Brook joanne@isikhova.co.za

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Director: Brand Strategy Jenny Justus jenny@isikhova.co.za / 083 450 6052

We go Gaga over Gucci The “Lady” ups the ante to a spectacular new level

Operations Director Thuli Majola thuli@isikhova.co.za Editor-at-Large Smitha Sadanandan Contributing Editor Adri Viviers Pictures Editor Amahle Jali

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Copy Editor Anne Phillips

WIN! Tickets to see a SterKinekor movie

Europe & USA Correspondent Gill Hyslop Asia Pacific Region Solitaire Magazine Anton Javier, Deputy Editor Gynn Lee, Business Manager

Meet Ronke Nedd Nigerian designer on her career and jewellery

Wordsmiths - Africa Khwezi Makeba Imer Kroob Media Specialist Gail Keogh gail@isikhova.co.za / 082 929 4934

Going global Your passport to an international and inspiring storybook

Global Media Alliance Partners Solitaire Magazine www.solitairemagazine.com CoNNect Agency, UK www.theagencyconnect.com Jewellery Council of South Africa

Featured Issue 4 brand supporters

Lorna Lloyd, CEO Membership enquiries: admin@jewellery.org.za Tel: +27 11 484 5528 / Fax: 086 504 95212

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Pièce de résistance This issue’s “Made in ZA” showpiece

The Hamlet, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown, Johannesburg.

Bavina Vassan Tel: +27 72 247 1122 JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine is independently published by Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd and is part of the SA Jewellery Brands Portfolio viewable at www.jewellerysa.co.za

Essence and elegance Discover how breathtakingly beautiful jewellery and watches capture their “essence” in fragrant forms

10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg 2193, South Africa Telephone +27 11 883 4627 www.isikhova.co.za Subscriptions & General Enquiries jza@isikhova.co.za Richard Mille

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Rock Baroque Update your look with these unforgettable beauties

Tariq Riaz

Editor-in-Chief & Publishing Director Jason Aarons jason@isikhova.co.za

Brilliant & Black The first-ever selling exhibition dedicated to black jewellery designers

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the publisher, contributors or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine, the owners, the Editor-in-Chief, the publisher; media alliance partners nor any of its endorsed organisations or contributors can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine © 2021. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishers.

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A note from the

EDITORIN-CHIEF JZA really is a magazine for all seasons. We’re now on Issue 4, having done a 360˚ through summer, autumn, winter and now spring. What a journey it’s been – and what an adventure it’s going to continue to be with you, our “JZA global citizens” and our wonderful JZA brand supporters.

WORDSMITHS

It’s the time of year when being seen on the scene is the perfect reason to adorn yourself with stand-out accessories. Our Level 1 reset gives us even more reason to celebrate ourselves and our rediscovered outdoor jewellery freedom – day and night.

Smitha Sadanandan JZA's Editor-at-Large is Chicagobased Smitha – a freelance journalist specialising in the luxury industry. She tracks international trends in the jewellery sector and provides an insightful perspective as analyst and contributor to TRENDVISION (Jewellery + Forecasting). She writes for print and digital platforms internationally, including Solitaire and The Adventurine.

Little wonder, then, that themes of renewal, energy, joviality and lifted spirits, along with colour, colour and more colour, are so effervescent. At the same time, the “colour” of our South African jewellery landscape remains resilient and continues to reflect the incredible creativity of our homegrown offerings.

We South Africans are a resourceful bunch and we’re not short of inspiration and ideas. In this issue, the JZA team is proud to share much of what embodies our nation’s jewellery spirit and tenacity, as well as that of Africa and the wider globe.

Be you!

Editor-in-Chief Jason Aarons

Adri Viviers Adri is the Editor of JZA’s sister magazine, SA Jewellery News (SAJN), official publication of the Jewellery Council of SA. She is highly respected among the jewellery fraternity and, during her 10+year editorship, has represented SAJN at prestigious international shows in Hong Kong Italy and India. She is also Editor of African Odyssey and Jewellery Biz-News.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

Gill Hyslop Gill has been in the publishing industry for more than 30 years, having worked on numerous B2B and consumer titles, including as Editor of SA Jewellery News from 2005-2009. She is also a consummate foodie and has worked as a chef and on charter yachts in the Mediterranean.

Her global resumé includes her present editorship of BakeryandSnacks.

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1.

9.

10.

ALL THAT

JAZZ

8.

2.

Say “hello” to jewellery fabulousness

3.

They’re unique. They’re bold.

They’re gorgeous. And they’re right on-point with #jzaontrend.

Each issue, we’ll bring you a seasonal storyboard of our

7.

favourite #jzaontrend selections from incredible homegrown talent to global inspirations. And, of course, you’ll be able to follow the hashtag on our social media too. Here are our spring edits.

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6.

5.

1. Rainbow necklace. Myrto Anastasopoulou 2. Statement ocean jasper pendant with gold keumboo and 18k gold appliqué. MetalsmithedByOlga 3. Spider web earrings – chartreuse green enamel. Magpie Mouse Studios 4. Night Cave stalactite earrings with citrine. Ascendant Jewelry Studio 5. Recycled can ring, HMA, PLA. Eunseok Han 6. Rainbow earrings from Ayala Bar South Africa’s Rainbow Collection. 7. Rose gold ring with white ceramic and white diamonds.

Gismondi 1754 8. Handmade UNISEX brass dog tag necklace. Athena A Jewellery 9. Infinity ring in 18K yellow, white and rose gold. Shimansky 10. From Miss H Jewellery Design’s new “Beaming Bohemian” range.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

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SPRING IT ON! Colour, colour and more colour is big news for SS21

WORDS BY JASON AARONS

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

Bedazzle Me Pretty

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ha

n te

c ler

Lauren K aqua slice jewelry

S a u to i r

by C

Margot M

cK inney

◀ Amethyst orchid The floral shaded amethyst orchid introduces a unique touch.

◀ Cerulean The colour of the sky on a serene, crystal-clear day.

◀ Burnt coral Inviting burnt coral expresses conviviality.

▲ Green ash A mentholated green that cools and soothes.

I

yD nn Je

ngenuity and inventiveness are clearly

off your own personality this spring/

fron-runners this season. Whether

summer season (SS21) lend themselves

your preference is for high-end luxury,

to original shade statements within these

sassy street statement pieces or sheer,

genres. Renewal, energy, joviality and

indulgent silliness, “be yourself” is always

lifted spirits are overall themes.

There’s also a distinct, vibrant “backto-the-beach” vibe in some of the colour palette. It’s laid-back, calming

le

and captures a delightful seasonal

Brent Nea

joy which we love! ▼ Marigold A comforting golden orangeinfused yellow lends a warming presence.

▶ Rust An earthinspired brown emblematic of autumn leaves uncharacteristic of a spring palette.

▲ Mint Tasty mint refreshes and restores.

◀ Raspberry sorbet Vivifying raspberry sorbet tantalises.

ston

◀ Illuminating Friendly and joyful, an optimistic yellow offering the promise of a sunny day.

Stuff that Blings!

Kirsten Goss

the message. And the colours for showing

Harry W in

ee

▶ French blue A stirring blue hue that awakens a vision of Paris in the springtime.

S wa

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

r ov s k i N i r va n a r i n g

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▶ Ansellia africana flower ring, silver & bronze.

Nic Bladen Botanicals

HOME GROWN WORDS

BY JASON

AARONS

Throw away your khaki and wear your fynbos

▲ King proteapod full leaf necklace, yellow-gold plated. Botanica Handcrafted Jewellery ▶ King protea ring. Ida Elsje Jewellery

I

t’s no secret that many jewellery designers have looked to nature

as a source of inspiration.

Sterling Silver and Pearl Tulips.

Poppydots Design

One of Team JZA’s favourite themes, botanical jewellery continues to enchant and

national flower, the protea, African flame lilies, Cape fynbos,

delight with wonderful

cosmos and vygies, our proudly South African designers

budding optimism, and

are spoilt for choice when it comes to homegrown ideas

remains (pardon the pun)

and discoveries. And don’t forget leaves, climbers,

a perennial favourite. This

twigs and branches cast directly from the

year’s creations have taken

ZA landscape too. Our three Trees of the

root more than ever and

Year 2021 – the sweet thorn (Vachellia

continue to celebrate and

karroo), the spekboom (Portulacaria

extend their branches with

afra) and the pepper bark tree

renewal, rejuvenation

(Warburgia salutaris) – are

and growth.

also influencing RSA-

From Namaqualand daisies and incredible aloes to our

made pieces.

Take your pick!

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

◀ Long, oval set lapel pin with a 6mm round, brilliant cut, tube-set citrine or peridot and a pair of acacia leaves.

Deon Smith Jewellery

deon Smith jewellery

Botanical collection

email - deon@deonsmithjewellery.com web - www.deonsmithjewellery.com instagram - https://instagram.com/deonsmithjewellery/

All visuals with thanks to DJ Zinhle’s website and Instagram

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SING THE Homegrown statement jewellery pieces and African-inspired watches are all the rage

E

BLIN

ra by DJZinhle is a fashion accessory brand founded in 2012 by South African house music DJ, author

and super-mom DJ Zinhle (Ntombezinhle Jiyani).

And on 1 September this year, one of SA’s most recognised entrepreneurs proudly opened her physical store at the Mall of Africa in Midrand, Johannesburg.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

NG

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The Era label, which embodies sophistication and style, started out as a timepiece-specific brand that has now expanded into a wide range of accessories. The brand was built on the notion that women should use this specific moment on their individual journeys to achieve whatever they aspire to.

The brand states: “For us, there’s nothing more precious than time. It’s how we measure what’s important to us and it also acts as an indication of our growth. That’s why we’ve built our product line from watches up.”

DJ Zinhle is an inspiration to many because of her strong work ethic, business acumen and enthusiasm in women’s empowerment. In 2020, the brand launched its much-anticipated Era vision line, a capsule collection of unisex sunglasses which highlight the beauty of a strong vision and what having one can do for you.

"Time and vision are everything to me,” says DJ Zinhle. “It’s a constant reminder not only of where I come from, but also of where I’m going.

That’s why I’ve added sunglasses to the range after seven years of Era by DJ Zinhle. This process has taught me to be optimistic about my future and that's exactly the message I want our consumers to take from our brand.”

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

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EYE Y U

▲ Atlantis evil eye pendant charm.

Monica Vinader

Dispel all bad vibes with this quirky accessory WORDS BY AMAHLE JALI

E

vil eyes are traditional

▲ ‘925 sterling silver evil eye stud earrings. Be Fabulous Jewellery

emblems which are shrouded in mysticism and magic.

Jewellery designers have come up with endless interpretations of them, often using precious gems or ornamental stones in various settings.

Protecting yourself with amulets has never been more stylish – or more fun!

As a protective barrier, the evil eye necklace or bracelet was created to repel the eyes of

harm. An iconic symbol in the Middle East, originating from Turkish, Greek and Arabic cultures, and ever more popular in the West, it is believed to mirror back the blue of the evil eye and thus nullify it.

An evil eye pendant comes in a range of designs, but the basic one is always in the

▲ Brass enamel evil eye vintage band ring. To Made Jewellery ▼ Show and Tell – Ready to See You ring. NeverNot

shape of an eye with blue stones being used as the focal point, thanks to the powerful

▲ Royal blue and 18k gold-plated evil eye charm anklet. Streetregion

impact of this colour. A handmade evil eye pendant looks great hanging from a sterling silver necklace. The size of chain you choose depends on the size of your pendant, as both can range from small, dainty pieces to larger, statement-type items. Both will work to protect you from negativity and malicious thoughts.

So, whether you feel some connection to the symbol or are wanting some good karma vibes (and far less chaos), this is a statement must-have for your spring style and wardrobe.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

MADE BY WOMEN FOR WOMEN

W W W.ISA BELL A DESIGNJEW ELLER S.CO. Z A

ISABELLA ISABELLA STORY STORY IDJ. Partnerships IDJ. Partnerships 1.Proud 1.Proud member member of Jewellery of Jewellery Council Council member member of South of South AfricaAfrica

2.Certifed 2.Certifed Responsible Responsible Jewellery Jewellery Council Council Member.

Member.

info@isabelladesignjewellers.co.za +27 (0)76 303 2999 A division of Isabella Refiners - Gauteng’s Finest Precious Metal Refiners 3.Proud 3.Proud Beneficiates Beneficiates of Deof Beers De Beers Enterprise Enterprise Development Development Project Project 2020.2020.

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▼ Multi-strand beaded statement necklace.

Woolworths

Yaa Yaa

Lo

nd on

Fun and flirty, it’s the “new lipstick”

◀ Hoop earrings.

Mr Price

▲ Branklet.

Mr Price ▼ Curb lock chain.

By Cara

▲ Sterling silver medium feather pendant. jobangles silver jewellery

◀ Wide brass ring. Matter of Fakt

COSTUME PARTY ZA’s Khwezi Makeba

classy and elegant to casual

says having a fling

and lively or even eccentric

with bling needn’t

and frivolous, costume

cost you the earth.

jewellery is an instant pick-

The rest of the team concurs.

me-up. There are great price

Costume jewellery is a

points, a growing range of

fabulous way to stand out in

ZA brands and no shortage

a crowd and stay on trend.

of styles, colours and

No matter what day or night

materials, so choose your

look you’re going for, from

costume and let’s party!

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

"I think jew ellery can change an outfit more than any th ing else.

Transforma tion, punch , individuality : one or all o f the above are why yo u should wea r jewellery."

– Iris Apfel, st yle and fashion icon . @Iris .apfe

l

Photography: K360 Business Solutions

083 659 2607 | karlien@karliendesigns.co.za | www.karliendesigns.co.za

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Enamel is quirky, fun and full of personality ◀ Hotlips by Solange.

Silver and enamel ring.

Net-a-Porter

POP A

ll things which

are fun, colourful

123RF.com

ENAMEL and make us

smile, laugh and feel happy are definitely trending. And with our sensational weather and glorious outdoor offerings, enamel jewellery is the mood!

What the talk is “Typically coming in a variety of colours, enamelling is a decorative coating applied to metal. This age-old technique can be crafted into quirky shapes for an added kitschy flair to your everyday outfit – whether you're looking to channel your inner child or ◀ Enamel painted, sterling silver leaf drop earrings . Dhia Jewellery.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

Courtesy Melissa Kaye

Melinda Maria

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want something more toned down.” – Jacqueline Vu of L’Officiel USA “Enamel jewellery is another one of those rediscoveries that somehow feel as comfortable as catching up with an old friend. If you’re up for some tips, try wearing neutral-coloured enamel jewellery with colourful outfits so that it doesn’t compete for attention. On the flip side, you can wear colourful enamel jewellery with neutrals – or with a solid top and printed pants.” – Wendy Sy, Fortune and Frame “Think of it as jewellery with a sugar coating; the brighter the colours, the sweeter the impact.” – Alice Carey and Naomi Smart, Vogue UK ▼ Midnight pomegranates. Blue and yellowgold enamel on sterling silver, sterling silver hook, gold paint accents. One-of-a-kind.

Hand-sawn, enamelled. Nora Kovats

▲ Disc earrings made with vitreous enamel pliqueajour. Idilius Jewellery ▶ Rainbow Brite set of three enamel bracelets. Roxanne Assoulin

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

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D

own to the Wire strives to raise awareness of a critical topic – poaching – through its unique

and carefully handcrafted jewellery.

Snaring, one of the primary methods of poaching, is a big threat to precious wildlife.

The Down to the Wire team found a way to turn what was once destructive into hope.

Anti-poaching teams are working tirelessly to remove these death traps from our wildlife areas. Once removed, they serve no other purpose. Down to the Wire’s quest is to rework them into inspiring and beautiful handcrafted bangles, earrings, necklaces and rings as a symbol of life.

The project was founded in 2019 by brother-and-sister duo Troy and Lilly Otto

DOWN TO THE WIRE

WORDS BY ADRI VIVIERS

IN ZA

A piece of wire, now worn by the world #wearthestory is making a difference

and was inspired by the lack of awareness

with wire cutting deeper and deeper into

of snaring in general and the effects it has

its flesh. When you or I hold a piece of wire

on wildlife. JZA chats to Lilly.

in our hands, it's simply a strand of wire

What sparked the idea of Down to the Wire? The project stemmed from doing

with a loop here and a knot there – but in the hands of a poacher, it becomes deadly.

a snare sweep one day and finding a

I thought: “This is something the world

warthog trapped in a wire snare. It had

needs to see.” I remember thinking that

been left for days without food or water,

people need to be educated about the

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

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negative effect snaring has on all wildlife and why it's so cruel and undesirable from a conservation perspective.

How does Down to the Wire help wildlife? Funds raised are made available to a select group of wildlife veterinarians who have dedicated their lives to making a difference within wildlife conservation, to cover the costs of treatment and

This is something the world needs to see.

rehabilitation.

How did you get your idea off the ground? Neither of us had any experience in jewellery-making or working with wire and cable, but through dedication and hard work, we were able to overcome all obstacles and get the project off the ground. We’ve had a lot of support from family and friends, as well as great advice from our dad.

Who designs and produces the jewellery pieces? My brother Troy is our master designer. He’s extremely creative.

Once a design has been tested and approved, I spend time teaching the rest

item. Each piece of jewellery is handcrafted

of the team to successfully produce each

with the utmost care. A lot of time and energy go into the production, making each piece a unique story to wear.

What does the creation process look like?

Each snare goes through a vigorous process of cleaning, bending and hammering to create the individual products which are available for purchase. Not all snares are the same, so each one goes through a different production process.

Click to visit Down to the Wire (https://www.down2thewire.org/)

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

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A MATTER

OF TIME A

maBhengu Fashion brand’s mechanical watches are quite the buzz.

Available through the brand’s fullyfunctional online store, these unique, standout self-winding, automatic timepieces can be ordered in gold and rose gold colours with stainless steel buckles and cases. They’re water-resistant with luminous hands and the strap variations are metal and silicone.

You’ll find all the information relating to pre-orders, delivery and returns policy online, so getting your watch bling on is really easy.

Visuals: AmaBhengu Fashion

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

Garden of Eden A sparkling paradise of treasured gemstones, inspired by nature’s beauty and variety.

18ct Yellow Gold Claw Set Fancy Sapphire Ring Features a total of 1.37ct Sapphire.

WAS R 49 990 NOW R 24 995 Nelson Mandela Square | +27 (0)11 883 6747 | Gateway Theatre of Shopping | +27 (0)31 566 2527 | info@bellagiojewellers.co.za | www.bellagiojewellers.co.za

@bellagio_jewellers

@BellagioLuxury

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DIAMONDS ON YOUR DOORSTEP Cape Town Diamond Museum re-opens – and is a must-see

I

Shiman

sk y

f you’re in the Mother City or planning to

visit, then make sure the Cape Town Diamond Museum at the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront is on your to-do list.

The museum pays homage to the extraordinary story of diamonds and how SA’s contribution to that history changed the global

Part of your experience includes a glimpse of the 798-diamond, Desert Rose.

diamond industry forever. You’ll be able to explore the romance and realities of this fascinating era and trace the famous rivalries of the local diamond industry. ▲ Burton Taylor Diamond. Elizabeth in 1972 by Norman Parkinson. Pinterest

Highlights include replicas of the world’s largest diamonds that have adorned royalty, the rich and the famous, including the Cullinan rough diamond, the Hope and the Taylor Burton. You can expect to see mining gear, historical artefacts and specimens of kimberlite rock dating back billions of years. You’ll also discover how diamond jewellery is manufactured and be able to purchase it in the Shimansky Clock Tower showroom.

Part of your showroom experience affords you a glimpse of the 798-diamond Desert Rose. It features ◀ The Hope Diamond. The Smithsonian Institute

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

Life is beautiful.

Wear it in diamonds.

Diamond, precious and semi-precious gemstone and jewellery certification. +27 11 334 4527 / services@egl.co.za / www.egl.co.za

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Cape Town Diamond Museum

798 ethically sourced South African diamonds, totalling 24,13ct, complemented by 42 tsavorites weighing 3,11ct and the centrepiece, a desert rose crystal from Namibia, set in 58,80g 18k gold.

The design was inspired

by South African fynbos, in particular the pincushion and king protea, while the ring gets its name from the desert

nature through the action of wind and

rose crystals which are the central

water. Traditionally, they are valued for meta-

focus, enclosed by “petals” of gold and

physical properties and have been popular

diamond with “stamens” of gold and

among shamans throughout history.

tsavorite. Desert rose crystals are found in arid regions across the world, including southern Africa – often in clusters resembling bunches of roses shaped by

A thousand times rarer than diamonds, tanzanite comes from a single finite vein in the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro. Formed over 550 million years ago, the gemstone can only be mined from the earth using a hammer and chisel to ensure a sustainable interaction with nature, which is why Shimansky has built a longstanding relationship to source tanzanite directly from the Maasai tribe.

Get your sparkle at the Cape Diamond Museum!

Operating hours: 09h00 – 17h00, Monday-Saturday.

General admission is R100 per person. Entry is free for pensioners, senior citizens and children younger than 14.

Bookings are essential for the safety of guests.

Tel: 021 421 2488 E-mail: info@capetowndiamondmuseum.org Website: www.capetowndiamondmuseum.org

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

W h e n w e ’r e o n t o p o f t h e w o r l d o r l i f e t u r n s u p s i d e d o w n

I t ake you, until forever Forevermark Engagement & Commitment Collection Beautiful, Rare, Responsibly sourced

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WORDS BY ADRI VIVIERS

DARE TO BE

DIFFERENT B

ased in Heidelberg in the Western Cape, Artis Aeris

Studio creates unique piec-

If you’re looking for something with a lot of edge, then these designs are for you!

es that blur the boundaries between art and jewellery.

These are bold and contemporary jewellery creations which combine outstanding design, fine craftsmanship and passion.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

Happiness is based on Quality not quantity...

High Street Shopping Village, Shop 0/1B High Street, Rosenpark, Bellville, Cape Town, South Africa Tel: +27 (21) 914 0838 Email: info@gmfinejewellery.co.za Website: www.gmfinejewellery.co.za

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JZA caught up with André

and during lunch hours, he would craft the

van der Bank, the brain be-

most beautiful jewellery pieces from copper

hind these pieces for those

and brass. Out of curiosity, I often stood and

who dare to be different.

watched him. Then, one day, he showed

When did you discover your love for jewellery?

My passion for making jewellery began on the banks of the Tigris River in Iraq in 2017. While working at the US Embassy as a Landscape Manager, I was introduced to the art of forming non-ferrous metals

me how to perform the annealing (softening) method on copper.

This turned the tough, brittle material into soft, malleable material. I was hooked immediately. The language barrier between us didn’t prevent me from learning as much as I could from him.

into spectacular shapes by

That, in short, was how a farm

an elderly local artist. He

boy from the South African veld,

worked in my department

working in Iraq, started making jewellery from non-ferrous metals.

What do you enjoy most about designing jewellery?The freedom to create. Like the hoopoe

We create jewellery for the daring.

bird in our logo, we like to spread our wings and create something never seen before. It gives us joy to see a happy and excited customer wearing a once-off jewellery piece designed with their input, for their needs.

What sets Artis Aeris Studio apart from other jewellery brands? Our motto at Artis Aeris is: “Perfection in imperfection.” We create jewellery for the daring.

Something different and unique – definitely not conventional jewellery.

Mostly, we use non-ferrous metals like copper, silver and brass in combination with wood and natural stone. Our designs are once-off pieces, crafted according to the client’s needs and tastes.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

1971-2021

CONTACT OUR MEMBERS • ADRIAN & MEYER JEWELLERS • AFRICAN JEWELS • BARDINS JEWELLERS & MARK-E • BRESCO DIAMONDS • DEBBIE MOUTON JEWELLERS • DENNIS COLLINS JEWELLERS • DEONNE LE ROUX JEWELLERS • ELEGANCE JEWELLERS • FRANCARLO DESIGNER GOLDSMITH • FRANCOIS JEWELLERS • GEELS JEWELLERS • GERALD FRANCIS JEWELLERS • H.D.L. JUWELIERS • LH VAN EEDEN JUWELIERS • LOUIS JEWELLERS • MARIOS JEWELLERS • MARK GOLD/JUMAT JEWELS • SHEMER JEWELLERS • SIVANA AFRICA • VON WIELLIGH GOLDSMITH

Contact Chevron Jewellers on tel: 011 917 3463

Visuals with thanks to Amidoshishah.com

30 ▶ Brass tube collar necklace.

▶ Shouldergrazing dapple earrings.

WORDS

BY IMER KOORB

AFRICAN

ADVENTURE A

Meet Ami Doshi Shah

mi Doshi Shah is a jeweller and applied artist based in Nairobi, Kenya. Trained at the Birmingham School of Art & Design, she represented Kenya at

the International Fashion Showcase at London Fashion Week 2019. She is also the recipient of the the Goldsmiths’ Award for Best Design (Apprentice Trainee) and the African Designers for Tomorrow award.

The talismanic and symbolic role of adornment is a strong source of inspiration for Shah’s work. She uses locally sourced materials, offcuts and remnants of the Kenyan mining industry to create sculptural pieces and wearable art straddling Kenyan roots and a “global” aesthetic. Raw against industrial, texture next to clean lines – juxtaposing materials in unexpected ways underlines her design ethos.

Shah’s humanity influences her creativity and designs.

In her eyes, the human form is the most beautiful. Her ▲ Frond drop earrings.

inspiration is derived from a million sources. She is inspired by life, materials, geology and the beauty of a single object.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

go for gold

www.brescodiamonds.co.za

32

NOW

SERVING “Gelato” is the “flavour” of the season!

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◀ SuperOcean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise watches. Breitling ◀ SuperOcean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise Capsule Collection.

Breitling

▼ Les Ciels de Chaumet Étoiles Étoiles in white gold with mandarin garnets and diamonds. Chaumet

WORDS BY JASON AARONS

T

he sweeter things

The menu features pastel

in life generally

pinks, lavenders, baby blues,

seem to please

sherbet/lemon yellows and

most of the senses. They do

all the colours you’d find in

mine. One of my “sweetest”

one of those classic seaside

indulgences is gelato – and

ice cream parlours. Fresh,

being so over our winter,

joyful, fun and exactly what

spring couldn’t have come

the watchmaking world

early enough. It arrived and

needs right now.

so did news of the gelatoinspired watch colour trend.

I was sold.

They’re like a big scoop of ice cream on a hot day. So join me and take time out for an arm candy “sugar high”!

All the colours you’d find in one of those classic seaside ice cream parlours.

▲ Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 turquoise (ref 124300-0006). Watch Trading Co

▼ RM 07-01 automatic winding Coloured Ceramics Collection.

Richard Mille

34

▲ BRESCO DIAMONDS Custom-made jewellery pieces which let you be you! www.brescodiamonds.co.za

▲ BELLAGIO JEWELLERS 14ct rose gold claw set fancy sapphire and diamond pendant.

From Garden of Eden Collection. www.bellagiojewellers.co.za

▲ GERHARD MOOLMAN FINE JEWELLERY Handcrafted gold and platinum jewellery, diamonds, precious and semi precious stones. www.gmfinejewellery.co.za

◀ USIZO AFRICA Baby Bomb handmade earrings. www.usizo.africa

RETAIL THERAPY

▲ KARLIEN DESIGNS 9ct white gold aqua ring with treated blue diamonds and GH (fine white) diamonds. www.karliendesigns.co.za ▲ INKATURAH Mother Daughter earrings. www.inkaturah.co.za

◀ CIANI JEWELLERS Handcrafted luxury jewellery. www.cianijewellers.com

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▲ MICHL JEWELLERY East meets south bangle. www.michljewellery.com

▲ DE BEERS GROUP/ DE BEERS FOREVERMARK De Beers Forevermark diamond jewellery – from engagement rings, decorative bracelets and elegant necklaces to earrings. www.debeersgroup.com/ www.forevermark.com

JZA’s spring look-book of fun, fabulousness, inspirations and ideas to adorn. From glorious gold and divine diamonds to a rainbow of colours and magical materials, this retail therapy session is now officially OPEN. Let’s go shopping!

▲ DEON SMITH JEWELLERY Conebush brooch handcrafted in silver with brushed leaves. Available in black chacate, wild peach, red ivory wood and silver tree. www.deonsmithjewellery.com

◀ MERVIS BROTHERS JEWELLERS The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust, with functions and aesthetics that never go out of fashion. www.mervis.co.za

▲ ILONI DESIGNER JEWELLERY Double original neckpiece. www.ilonidesigns.com ◀ WHITE RABBIT DAYS Unnoticed earrings with leather. www.whiterabbitdays.com

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ROCK

BAROQUE WORDS BY ADRI VIVIERS

Not only are pearls alive and well, but they’re turning out to be one of the biggest jewellery trends this year!

I

f you haven’t started updating your spring jewellery box with this elegant, chic, sensual and sexy fashion staple, make a plan and we’ll tell you why . . .

This year, jewellery with pearls is less traditional than before, rejecting the classic long pearl necklace and moving towards a modern style. Women have always loved pearls, but they’re seeking newer and bolder compositions that not only emphasise femininity, but also add an edgy twist. Enter baroque pearls.

What are baroque pearls? They’re non-symmetrical.

Baroque pearls aren’t round. The word “baroque” itself means “irregular”.

Why you should rock baroque There are many reasons for adding baroque pearls to your jewellery collection. Modern style is all about

@mizukijewels

▼ 18k yellow gold open ring combining with two Keshi Baroque pearls.

Layani Fine Jewelry

The Times.

Photo: Inès Mana

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

▼ Extraordinary Estate Yvel multicoloured baroque pearl diamond 18k gold necklace.

Due to their shape, irregular pearls create stunning colours and flashes of iridescent beauty. ▲ Recycled 14k yellow gold, freshwater round pearl and freshwater baroque pearl “Empress” earrings. White Space ▼ Pearl and diamond novelty brooch modelled as a whale, from the blister pearl head with emerald single-stone eye, to the reeded body and pavé-set brilliant-cut diamond tail, circa 1960.

Pinterest

▶ Bottega Veneta.

Hand-painted baroque pearl single earring. The Times

bold statement, there are more than a few powerful designs to choose from

showing off your

as well. And if you’re a

individuality – and irregular

fashionista, you’ll notice

pearls help you do just

that dramatic asymmetry

that. Each irregular pearl is

has been gracing catwalks

completely unique, so you

this year. Asymmetrical

know no-one will ever have

baroque pearls are a simple

a piece of jewellery that’s

way of updating your look

exactly the same as yours.

and effortlessly bring your

Due to their shape, irregular

existing wardrobe right in

pearls create stunning

line with one of this year’s

colours and flashes of

hottest trends.

iridescent beauty. You’ll find that baroque pearl jewellery naturally has pools of beautiful tints where the pearls curve in and out, drawing attention.

From earrings to bracelets and even layer-worthy necklaces, baroque pearls are ideal for those wanting to be little different with

Baroque pearl jewellery comes in

jewellery that embraces

many forms, but even when it’s

the beauty of imperfection.

simple, it makes a statement. An

So whether you’re looking

understated pendant, for example,

to add an unforgettable

still has plenty of character, catches

touch to your casual wear or

the eye and stands out from

enhance an elegant outfit

conventional jewellery options.

for a special event, baroque

Of course, if you want to make a

pearls are your oyster!

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

37

We’ve got you covered

Subscribe for FREE! JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

Email your name and contact number to jza@isikhova.o.za

39

RINGS OF

DESIRE Lightweight, replaceable, hygienic and wallet-friendly… what’s not to love?

S

◀ Unisex silicone wedding ring. Soul Matters

ilicone hypo-allergenic rings are durable, affordable, easy to clean, non-conductive,

Amazon

lightweight, comfortable and a great option when you don’t want to beat up your traditional wedding ring.

They’re also a smart necessity when working with heavy machinery, at the gym, climbing, travelling, gardening and daily life.

Although these rings don’t have a shiny, metallic finish like traditional wedding bands, they’re available in multiple patterns, colours and styles, ensuring there’s one to match almost every personality out there.

There’s one to match almost every personality out there.

▲ Men’s fish scale silicone ring. Silicone Rings Online ◀ E3’s double debossed silicone ring. Orbit Rings

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

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THE MEN

EVENT 1. In Gold We Trust Paris pearl Cuban link bracelet. Ssense 2. Men’s Rebel Tiger 3D black-silver watch. Thomas Sabo 3. Armadillo ring.

Nomad Jewellery and Accessories 4. Heron Preston 5. Black leather belt with adjustable frayed buckle. Rok Originals 6. BOHO jewellery vintage stainless steel cross men’s black-silver ring. Amazon 7. Men’s 18ct gold bracelet. Third place, COUTURE Design Awards 2021 – “Best in Men”. Jorge Adler

3.

2.

1.

4.

A

look at what on-trend guys are wearing – at

5.

work and play

From chain link bracelets, pendants, necklaces and signet rings to Bohemian styles, leathers, beads, stainless steel, pearls, gold, silver and, of course, silicone rings (see page 39), there’s a man for all seasons in jewellery designs.

Editor-in-Chief Jason Aarons and contributor Khwezi Makeba share their top design choices.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

6.

7.

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42

W

▼ Baltic amber and silver necklace.

Forever Amber

earing your favourite gemstone to add peace, harmony and abundance to your day-to-day life is definitely one of the

2.

1.

moods of the moment.

Here are our top wonder gems . . .

123RF.com

1. Amber Yellow, brown or red amber is believed by some to be a powerful gemstone, with uses ranging from treating headaches and stress to promoting self-

3.

expression. It’s also said to promote cleansing and purification, which may help to draw illnesses out of the body and alleviate pain.

NATURE’S

JEWELLERY BOX Super-charge your inner being with gemstones

2. Amethyst Said to bring strength, courage and peace to the wearer. These benefits can help promote healing.

This soothing stone, with peaceful properties and quiet energy, may help release your creativity.

Wear amethyst anywhere to promote spiritual

▲ Puzzle earrings in 18k white gold with 35ct aquamarine.

Karma El Khalil

5.

▶ Natural garnet solid sterling silver ring. Takealot.com ▼ “The Natural One” raw moonstone necklace.

Amethyst Jewels

and physical health.

6.

3. Aquamarine Aquamarine has been said to help with digestive, eye and dental problems. In the past, sailors often wore these stones to protect them at sea. Today, some still wear them for protection. Aquamarine is believed to have a positive force that can bring happiness to its wearers and help them cope with the grieving process. It's also said to radiate healing energy, reduce the fear of water and even bring a wayward lover back.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

8.

43

4.

4. Citrine

7. Rose quartz

Citrine is said to promote

A popular gemstone, rose-

emotional well-being and

hued quartz is said to help

increase positive energy.

heal heartache. Closely

Some believe it can help

associated with love, it has

with hearing difficulties,

a soothing, gentle energy to

digestive ailments,

help bring calm. To derive

sleep problems, pain

the most benefit from a

and inflammation. Wear

rose quartz, wear it on a

citrine in its natural form,

pendant around your neck.

if possible, to enhance its

This allows the stone to stay

positive benefits.

close to your heart and help

5. Garnet Garnets with gorgeous, deep shades of red are said to energise wearers and help with health issues.

Wear garnets to give your Van Cleef & Arpels

whole system a boost, revitalise your body and promote your emotional well-being. The stone is also said to offer protection from evil and bad karma.

6. Moonstone White or clear moonstone is said to help wearers

7.

◀ Rose quartz shard necklace.

Jade Melrose Arch

◀ River tumbled black tourmaline ring. As Above So Below

achieve balance,

close emotional wounds, promote self-love and keep you open to positive relationships.

8. Black tourmaline Don’t let the lack of vibrant hues make you think this gem is lacking in the power department! It helps to purify the body from toxins, heavy metals and environmental pollutants and increase physical vitality. It's also one of the most powerful crystals for anxiety and insomnia.

particularly females.

Many regard the gemstone

Moonstone jewellery has

as one that can inspire a

also been used to alleviate

positive attitude, regardless

anxiety, depression and

of the circumstances, as

insomnia, as well as

well as stimulate a sense

promote creativity.

of altruism.

Add peace, harmony and abundance to your day-to-day life.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

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A

▼ Nak Armstrong Nakard multicoloured tourmaline tile necklace. twistonline.com

re there specific gemstones which are trending

more than others at the moment? Coloured stones and individual pieces are ▲ Mogul pendant in 18k yellow gold with Ethiopian opal and diamonds. Syna

very much in demand. Salt

Q&A

and pepper diamonds are very popular, morganites are still trending and so is tourmaline, which is also one of the birthstones for October.

Which cuts are currently the most popular ones?

Emerald cuts and ovals are

very popular at the moment,

▼ One-of-akind, 1,35ct salt and pepper kite diamond ring in white gold. Chinchar Maloney

This season we talk gems with Adine Lutz of Ajanta Afrika

as are fancy cuts, for those unique pieces. a little soapy water and

Are tumbled stones

a toothbrush will do

better than rough stones,

wonders. Certain

or is that just a matter of

stones shouldn’t be

personal preference? For

cleaned with warm

healing purposes, people

water often, like

often prefer natural rough stones. Tumbled stones are great for working with or if you want to carry a piece in

Ethiopian opals. Be ▶ Piaget Aurora borealis cuff.

Piaget

gemstones into contact with chemicals, as well as

your pocket. We find

perfume, and remove rings

that the cut and polished

before washing dishes.

pieces in jewellery are the most in demand.

▲ One-of-a-kind raw morganite gemstone ring. Pinterest

mindful of bringing

Are loose gemstones a good investment? Yes,

What are the three things

they are. Gemstones have

many people tend to

increased in value over the

forget when it comes to

years. In some cases, this

caring for gemstones?

has been due to rarity, as

You should regularly

well as the cost of mining

clean your gemstones;

and demand.

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

46 ▼ Boucheron Quatre Absolut. Boucheron

WORDS BY IMER KROOB

W

e all have our favourite jewellery brands.

We all have our favourite

▲ Jean Paul Gaulteir necklace. Vestiaire Collective

fragrances. So why not blend both and get a double whammy of your

▶ Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle Eau De Parfum Intense

own individual and iconic style? They may seem to

ELEGA

be worlds apart, but they’re both integral components of your personal signature, adding that final, elevated touch to feeling and looking terrific in any outfit.

Some of the world’s most breathtakingly beautiful

▲ Chromatique brooch. Boucheron

jewellery and watch brands have captured their “essence” in fragrant forms, with scents that have become instant global hits and sought-after

Jewellery through scent certainly adds to your joie de vivre.

fashion and beauty items.

Being able to express the joy of wearing a diamond

ESS &

Bvlgari Man Glacial Essence. Bvlgari

necklace, a boho-style ring, an avant-garde pendant, a beaded bracelet, a gold cuff or a strand of baroque pearls through scent certainly adds to your joie de vivre. Even the fragrance bottles – and their packaging – are real gems of delight, worthy of displaying and cherishing.

You’ll definitely want to get your nose around these: JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

◀ Diva’s Dream necklace.

Bvlgari

47

◀ Tiffany & Co Rose Gold Eau de Parfum.

Tiffany & Co

▲ Wild garden necklace. Kate Spade New York

▼ Tiffany Knot. Double row hinged bangle in rose gold with diamonds.

Tiffany & Co

◀ Kate Spade New York

ANCE

▼ Versace Dylan Turquoise Eau de Toilette. Versace

▶ The Abstraction brooch. Chanel High Jewellery ▼ Chanel N°5 Parfum.

Photo by Laura Chouette on Unsplash

Dolce & Gabbana

SENCE

▶ Gold Medusa chain necklace. Versace

▼ Panthère de Cartier bracelet.

Cartier

◀ Dolce & Gabbana Fruit Collection: orange, lemon and pineapple.

Dolce & Gabbana

▲ La Panthère Petals Eau de Parfum Limited Edition. Cartier

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BRILLIANT & BLACK

A JEWELRY RENAISSANCE

B

The firstever selling exhibition dedicated to black jewellery designers

rilliant & Black: A Jewelry Renaissance – co-curated by writer, author and stylist,

Melanie Grant and Sotheby’s Sale Director of Jewelry, Frank Everett – was held in New York in September and showcased 60 pieces by 21 of the world’s leading black jewellery designers, including custom-made

▲ The Isis Goddess pearl ring. Angie Marei

jewels and signature designs spanning a range of periods and styles from the

Her Freedom ring (left); Let Freedom ring (right).

Johnny Nelson

▲ Monumental ring. Jariet Oloyé Jewels Fenhirst ▶ Abstract wing cuff.

Lorraine West

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◀ Left: Matturi Fine Jewellery, The Nomoli Obelisk earrings; Jacqueline Rabun, Black Love bracelet design Middle: Art Smith, brass necklace; Ten Thousand Things, lapis lazuli ring Right: Art Smith, agate and cornelian sterling silver ring; Rashid Johnson x LIZWORKS, gold cuff from Anxious Men.

Apòstrofe necklace.

Thelma West

▼ Black mother-of-pearl chandelier earrings. Ten Thousand Things

◀ Sybil ring, sybil collar necklace.

Lola Fenhirst ▶ Sapphire Melanie ring.

Shola Branson

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

online store coming soon ear curation | gold and diamonds | custom design | 082 772 5392 | @my_peach_jewels (Instagram) | www.mypeach.co.za

51

1950s to the present day. It was the the first-ever selling exhibition dedicated to black jewellery designers.

The exhibition encompassed a range of styles, from traditional to contemporary.

Among the artists represented were pioneers in the history of design, such as Art Smith and Winifred Mason Chenet, sharing the spotlight with a global pool of critically acclaimed creatives, namely Harwell Godfrey, Jacqueline Rabun, Johnny Nelson, Lorraine West, Rashid Johnson, Thelma West, VANLELES, Castro NYC, ALMASIKA, Marei Fine Jewelry, MATEO New York, Matturi Fine Jewellery, Melanie Eddy Jewellery, Sheryl Jones

▲ Nomoli Totem Arc earrings.

Matturi Fine Jewellery

Jewels, Ten Thousand Things, Lola Fenhirst, Jariet Oloyé, Maggi

◀ “4 Ball” cuff. Art Smith

Simpkins and Shola Branson.

“Jewellery artists of African descent have been largely ignored in favour of ‘African-inspired’ design

▲ ALMASIKA Vici earrings. Catherine Sarr

Among the artists represented are pioneers in the history of design.

over the last century, despite the fact that so many of the resources to make jewellery come from the continent,” says Grant. “The events of 2020 have resulted in a cultural shift where black talent is being acknowledged for its brilliance and jewellery designers for their contribution,” adds Grant.

“They have compelling

▶ Money brooch pendant.

Castro

stories to tell.” ◀ Chenet cuff. Winifred Mason

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

N°112

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▼ Bvlgari Magnifica high jewellery necklace featuring 11 oval rubies and diamonds.

A new film explores the (literally) killingly stylish, biggest-selling Italian brand in the world

Pop Sugar

WE GO GAGA OVER GUCCI B

e ready to see the most outrageously glamorous jewellery pieces when House of Gucci –

already considered a major contender at the 2022 Oscars – opens in ZA on 3 December.

“Just like its fashion, its food and its culture, in Italian jewellery there’s always a flair for the dramatic,” says Celine Yap, author at Vogue Singapore. “Think bold, sculptural pieces crafted in solid 18ct gold.

Tactile, sensuous textures hammered by hand and in full contact with the skin.

▶ Bvlgari tubogas bracelet in gold, amethyst and diamonds, circa 1972.

Festive, colourful gemstones selected for their ample sizes and unique qualities, but always with a nod to Italian roots. And as Lady Gaga’s riveting performance in ◀ Earrings in gold with amethysts, citrines, emeralds and diamonds.

House of Gucci repeatedly demonstrates, when it comes to Italian jewellery, more is always more.”

Gaga was spotted in multiple scenes wearing breathtaking Bvlgari creations. The singer opted for high jewellery necklaces

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▼ Lady Gaga stuns with one of Bvlgari’s most iconic Heritage jewellery pieces – a collar necklace from 1991 set with beautiful sugarloaf-cut multicoloured stones.

▶ Bvlgari Magnifica high jewellery earrings in platinum with oval rubies and diamonds. ▶ Bvlgari tubogas bracelets in gold with amethysts, rutilated quartzes and diamonds, circa 1977.

Gaga ups the ante yet again.

from Bvlgari’s new “Le Magnifiche” collection in platinum with 11 oval

rubies, 77 round brilliant cut diamonds and pavé-set diamonds, pairing them with high jewellery earrings from the same collection in platinum with two oval rubies, round brilliant-cut diamonds, round brilliant-cut diamonds and pavé-set diamonds.

The necklace was paired by Lady Gaga with amethyst, citrine, diamond and emerald Bvlgari earrings made in 1989. Adding to this incredible jewellery ensemble were two 1970s Bvlgari tubogas bracelets, one in gold with amethysts and diamonds and another in gold with amethysts, rutilated quartz and diamonds.

▲ Posing for an Instagram photo with her co-star, Lady Gaga’s jewellery ensemble featured a pearl bracelet and matching necklace, gold chains and giant gilded button earrings. @ladygaga, Instagram

diamonds. The piece was originally owned

In another scene, she was spotted wearing

by Princess Yasmin Aga Khan, daughter of

a one-of-a-kind set from Bvlgari’s Heritage

actress Rita Hayworth and Prince Aly Kahn.

Collection, which featured a necklace in gold with amethysts, citrines, pink tourmalines, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds from 1991, paired with earrings in gold with amethysts, citrines, emeralds and

Gaga ups the ante yet again in this film and unequivocally takes jewellery adornment to a spectacular new level.

Watch the trailer here!

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

F

Obari

Brand promotion

56

ounded in 2019 by

MIDDLE

siblings Manal Waqi and Amani Waqi,

MAG

The Amanqi Consultancy

is a consulting and multi-pronged digital platform that operates in Dubai, London and Switzerland. The Amanqi team effectively combines their expertise and creativity to devise bespoke strategies for the brands.

With a vision to support emerging brands and businesses, Manal and Manal founded the consultancy to represent up-andcoming talent in the fashion, y

jewellery, beauty, lifestyle

uli

J

A mira

K ar

ao

and hospitality sectors across the globe. This Fall, the duo head to Paris, to launch their first-ever overseas trunk show with a curated tribe of designers.

Organised in sync with the annual Paris Fashion Week, the Amanqi Showroom held at Hôtel National Des Arts et Métiers, in Paris – from 27 September to 1 October – will unveil the best of emerging jewellery talents from the Middle Eastern region.

The designers will showcase their signature and latest fine and au

demi-fine jewellery creations

d

a yn

Rz

ad L

ondon

Kl

to a select clientele and buyers. Brands partici-

S

P yd &

ia

Obari

pating include:

Am

ir

a aK

rao

uli J

ewe l r y Mas Jewels

e

lr we

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

E EAST

GIC Dubai dazzles with Amanqi Consultancy’s designer brands

Brand promotion

By Sarah

57

Amira Karaouli Jewellery - “My jewellery is the symbol of the strong woman and part of each sale is given to support impoverished women.”

By Sarah – “My pieces are meant to be personal, to hold meaning to the person wearing them, so that they can tell their story with By Sarah Jewellery.”

Syd & Pia – “Our signature collection is a collection of art from the Taino tribes and the modern architecture of NYC, where the collection is handcrafted.”

MEHER Jewellery – “Alsawah, The Awakening is, interestingly enough, a prequel of sorts to my previous

M EH E

R

collection ‘Kun’ (The Manifestation/Being). While Kun represented a brave ascent into a new world born of 2020, Alsawah explores the emergence of that ascent.”

Klaudyna Rzad London – “Our label is an eponymous jewellery brand that utilises fine jewellery craftsmanship and materials, creating collectable, timeless unisex pieces.”

MAS – “With an array of intricately detailed lines, the label celebrates the inner beauty of women; all whilst empowering them to be a force of change.”

Obari – “Jewellery is a form of self-expression and we celebrate each wearer’s personality.”

J wah

Jwaher Jewels – “Focusing

er J

ew

els

on the celebration of gifting, the Jwaher founders create pieces that are unique and different.”

You can book a private viewing by contacting Team Amanqi at: manal@theamanqiedit.com or amani@theamanqiedit.com

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WORDS BY SMITHA SADANANDAN

N

igerian designer Ronke Nedd began her

jewellery journey with semi-precious beads and graduated to metals, diamonds and gemstones.

Her brand Rebecca Noff, which she founded in 2013, draws inspirations from her heritage, nature and

or a story that she wants to tell. Ronke regularly relies on textured finishes to lend detail to her gold wearables, as seen in the Leaf and Pebble collections accented with diamonds. “Texture tells multiple stories that clean lines sometimes can't convey and gives context to my design,” she adds.

In an e-mail interview, Ronke Nedd discusses her

her ability to see art in

career and jewellery.

everything. Take the case of

Tell us a bit about yourself

her collections: the Adinkra line is a tribute to the Akan people of Ghana, while the pieces of her Nest collection are an interpretation of how interconnected we are. “Gold wires are carefully linked and nested in another set of gold wires,” says Ronke, whose jewellery is made in Hong Kong, Bangkok and Toronto.

I grew up in Lagos, Nigeria.

I'm a wanderer with an expansive mind – the one who pushes boundaries and is always willing to go on a journey of self-discovery by stepping into uncharted territories. I love to travel, I love good food, I love to read and I can be a bit of a loner, as I need to retreat to draw energy from within myself

Her design process always

from time to time.

begins with a motif, a shape

You’ve essayed diverse roles and eventually became a diamond grader and bench jeweller – what sparked those choices?

I studied geography

RONKE

A WANDE AN EXPAN ScrumMaster, product owner and business analyst. I've worked in a variety of industries such as investment banking, business aviation and information technology.

and environmental

I formally learnt benchwork

management. I have

because it was important

a Master of Business

for me to understand

Administration degree, and I'm a Certified

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

what goes into the art of jewellery-making beyond

59

design: how metal is melted, forged, bent, rolled, shaped and filed, how diamonds are set, how finished pieces are polished before they ever sit in a window display. Getting involved in the entire value chain gives me a unique understanding of how much effort goes into crafting a piece and a better sense of value for each piece.

What kindled your love of jewellery? Curiosity. This surprises people a lot, but I’ve always had an active and creative mind, a colourful imagination and a love for shapes and abstract art – things that have now come to shape my

E NEDD

ERER WITH NSIVE MIND

JZA YOUR JEWELLERY MAGAZINE

60

design philosophy. This

the inspiration. The curled

meant that I was always

leaf design is a testament to

looking for ways to express

how much effort I put into

my creativity and that left

every detail: the apex, the

me tinkering with different

veins, the margin and leaf

things. I stumbled on

stalk are all carefully worked

jewellery-making and I found

into the design and this

jewellery design somewhat

type of detail can only be

therapeutic; it allowed

achieved by hand.

me to express myself in ways that I had previously struggled with. This is how my journey into the world of fine jewellery began and I let that be my anchor as I discover more about myself through this art.

How did you pivot for sales-client outreach at the onset of the pandemic? What kept you busy during this time? Since the whole world was online, literally, we had to stay in the client’s

Where do you find

consciousness with fresh

inspiration for your

designs and educative

designs? My designs are

videos on diamonds and

inspired by my journeys,

gemstones, especially, to

the customer’s journey

help drive brand awareness.

Has the Black Lives

(when making a bespoke

The pandemic definitely

Matter movement and

piece), my heritage, nature

impacted the business.

initiatives helped garner

and my ability to see

Luxury pieces such as gold

interest in your brand?

art in everything. When

and diamond jewellery

Not exactly, although I do

designing a piece inspired

tend to be first in line to be

believe it’s a necessary

by nature, I always strive to

put on hold on the list of

conversation to have and

preserve every aspect of

priorities for buyers, but we

sustain. Ultimately, I want

kept working with existing

a world where we get

clients and developing

visibility on the strength of

new ways to meet their

our work, regardless of who

needs and pique their

owns the brand.

interest. Thankfully, things are picking back up as the world opens up.

I stumbled on jewellery-making and found jewellery design somewhat therapeutic; it allowed me to express myself in ways that I had previously struggled with.

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Photo by Tadeusz Lakota on Unsplash

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JZA’s international and inspiring storybook

GLOBAL

CONNECT WORDS BY SMITHA SADANANDAN

Assael “We're very aware of the importance of pearls throughout history and how extremely important they are now in fashion.

Due to the success of Sean Gilson’s Bubble Collection, we knew we would expand it. During the pandemic, we decided to do pieces that would have a special place in someone’s collection and heart… associated with memories. We realised that a bubble tiara could be such a piece and a modern, yet soft take on the tiara. Sean was able to engineer it to be convertible to a choker,” says Peggy Grosz, Senior Vice-President of Assael.

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63

Davidor “Our first Couture show was a great experience. We débuted our signature collection, L’Arc de Davidor, at the exhibition.

It's our iconic line and features the repetitive arch pattern in 18k rose, yellow and white gold with 16 unique proprietary colours of lacquered ceramic and four patterns of diamonds.

The collection has more than 7 000 combinations and allows the wearer to continually add more pieces to their personal collection. The bangles from L’Arc de Davidor were the most popular pieces for people to see and try on. We also unveiled our newest line, L’Arc Voyage, that captures these beautiful and poetic stories, inspired by landscapes and cultures, flora and fauna – it tells the story of travel,” says David Gusky, the Creative Director of Davidor. The maison uses its patented arch cut diamond, which was designed and developed by Davidor himself and these diamonds are masterfully cut from very rare, rough diamonds. “A select few master cutters in the world are chosen to shape the brilliance of the arch cut diamond,” explains Gusky.

Yana Nesper “One of the newest pieces and a piece with great design significance that I had on display at the Couture show was The Middle Pendant. My time in lockdown really impacted my design process and how I went about seeking inspiration. I made a shift to designing more meaningful jewellery.

My new yoga pendant, The Middle, was a result of Covid-19 anxiety and destabilisation. The design of this pendant emulates a person meditating in the lotus position, which promotes physical strength, mental strength and flexibility. The heart shape of the design represents our energy centre in yoga. I've practised yoga for over 10 years now, so this piece means a lot to me,” says Yana Nesper, designer.

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64

Harwell Godfrey client in mind. Living and working

Lauren Harwell Godfrey of

in the San Francisco Bay area is

Harwell Godfrey launched several new

wonderful, but I often feel pretty far

one-of-a-kind pieces, as well as

removed from the jewellery universe

two new collections at Couture

and it was wonderful to reconnect with

— Other Dimensions and

so many people,” says the designer, who

Between the Lines. A colourful and maximalist line, the Other Dimensions uses a new technique for Lauren where

snapped up a Couture award for “Best in Colored Gemstones Under $20 000” for her turquoise and gold totem pendant.

she's incorporated tiny beads, a material that she loves, into the pieces themselves – medallions, bracelets, rings and earrings will be launched soon. “Between the Lines is exactly the opposite – it's my first attempt at minimalism and my first-ever collection using 22k gold. It’s intended to be genderneutral and I designed it with a more subtle

Milamore “The Kintsugi Collection, which is our core collection, was the biggest hit at the Couture show. We were so happy to see this, as I've worked for many years developing these designs. Buyers loved our Kintsugi Victoria float pavé diamond ring, Kintsugi infinity hoops, Kintsugi infinity emerald necklace and Kintsugi Infinity Akoya pearl necklace. Our Diamond Braille Collection and Duo Chain Collections also received a lot of interest. And, of course, our SELF LOVE diamond ring stole the show, as it was featured on the Couture issue of WWD magazine. What I love about Milamore is how it can be worn every day and styled to create the most unique looks. Whether you're looking for something classic, edgy or luxe, I've designed options for all,” says George Inaki Root, CEO and Creative Director of Milamore.

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65

Almasika Catherine Sarr of Almasika débuted the Harmony Collection at Couture this year. “This collection was inspired by sound mediation, sound waves and the shapes in which those waves ebb and flow, imagined in 18k gold and marquise diamonds. I wanted to explore this state of harmony that stands in contrast to the oftenimbalanced energy of life around us,” she says. The line includes necklaces, rings, bracelets and earrings.

“These pieces should remind us that the brief moments of dissonance we all experience, however forceful they may feel, are short-lived. The true state of harmony is a lasting one,” adds Sarr.

Although the Sagesse explores ancient symbols representing traditional wisdom, concentric circles inspired by West African Adinkra tradition are at the centre of the collection, the Le Cauri Endiamanté delves into ancient times, symbology and the Art of Divination to create cowrie shell-inspired gold and diamond pieces.

Tariq Riaz Tariq Riaz melds his engineering

the wall inside the fort.” The

background with architecture,

Wishbone Collection, featuring

history and culture to create fine

rings, earrings and bracelets,

jewellery. His expandable rings

is indeed inspired by the

and bracelets are lovely and often

wishbone – in this case, the

feature enamel detailing on the

chicken wishbone. Riaz, who

inside. Iconography also finds its

designs jewellery with a distinct

way into some of his works. The

philosophy “where design

Qasr Al Hosn ring, for instance,

meets functionality”, spent

which “expands up to nine sizes”,

over eight months researching

draws its inspiration from the

and developing mechanisms

historic Qasr Al Hosn palace and

to articulate the Wishbone

fort situated in the heart of Abu

creations and make the

Dhabi. “I've captured elements

movement fluid and natural.

of the building’s design in the

He dreams up his pieces

ring. The enamelling details

from his Abu Dhabi-based

come from the patterns of the

studio, which he says is his

decorative tiles that I saw on

“creative zone”.

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66 ▶ First Place: coloured gemstone below $20 000. Harwell Godfrey ▼ First Place: diamonds below $20 000. Ondyn

▶ First Place: haute couture. Elsa Jin

▼ First Place: silver.

Tane Mexico

FANTASTIC "FIRSTS" AT The world’s most exceptional curation of designer fine jewellery and luxury timepieces ◀ First Place: bridal. Retrouvaí ▲ Editor's choice.

Gismondi

▶ First Place: pearls. Assael

▶ First Place: coloured gemstone above $20 000. Vram

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Isabella Design Jewellers www.isabella-refiners.co.za info@isabella-refiners.co.za +27 (0)76 303 2999

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Visual @maike.valcarcel Instagram

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◀ Ring in sterling silver, 24ct gold with aquamarine and green tourmaline.

Maike Valcarcel's aim is to make jewellery that underlines personality and enhances individuality.

“It's sophisticated, yet

PIÈCE DE

mischievous and dares to be different. I want you to have as much fun wearing my jewellery as I have creating it.”

RÉSISTANCE pièce de ré·​sis·​tance an outstanding item or event : SHOWPIECE

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