WHAT IS CARNISM?

Carnism, coined in 2001 by Dr. Melanie Joy, is a term that refers to the invisible ideology which conditions people to consume certain animals, but not others. Or, in some instances, why some animals are viewed as fashion objects. Essentially, carnism is the opposite of veganism.

Carnism uses psychological defence mechanisms that run counter to our core human values, such as compassion or justice, to distort our perceptions and disconnect us from our natural empathy towards animals therefore making us act against our values without fully realising it. Carnism is used to condition us to not think or feel. To put it simply, Carnism is the reason “why we love dogs, eat pigs and wear cows” –also the title to Dr. Joy’s introductory book to carnism. So why is this relevant to fashion? While carnism is primarily used when referencing the consumption of certain animals, it can be just as easily applied to the fashion industry. Why is it acceptable to wear cow leather but not elephant leather? The fashion industry relies on false advertising, or fashion carnism, to depict certain animals as fashion objects. This has allowed the fashion industry to normalise animal cruelty on a massive scale. Under this premise, carnism and greenwashing go hand-in hand. Often, we see the fashion industry using deceiving advertising to depict a bucolic fantasy to mask the truth behind the inhumanity of the role of animals within fashion.

While the use of fur has been dropped by many major brands, leather still has a huge role within the industry with 1.5 billion animals being killed every year for leather alone. So that begs the question; is wearing fur morally worse than wearing leather? This points back to the misleading argument that leather is a by-product of the meat industry, whereas fur is not. However, this is a myth and, according the The Leather Panel, it would be better for the environment if the skins were thrown away to rot rather than be turned into leather. This is a prime example of fashion carnism and greenwashing at play, conditioning us to believe the fashion industry is far less culpable of ecological and moral violation than it actually is.

With the fashion industry being notorious for it’s progressive mindset, we can be hopeful for a greener fashion future. The industry now has a responsibility to listen to the protests and campaigns calling for more sustainability and transparency. We too, as the consumer, also have a role to play in recognising and confronting the role of greenwashing and fashion carnism that is so easily overlooked.

dress THE ENGLISH WOMAN, shoes DOC MARTENS

Renting fashion has become increasingly popular in recent years, as more and more consumers become aware of their wardrobe’s carbon-footprint. In the wake of the fast-fashion epidemic that has caused massive fashion overconsumption, we might want to look to renting - or sharing - clothes as an alternative to perpetual purchasing.

Leading rental platforms – including By Rotation, HURR collective and Rent the Runway – largely focus on renting clothes for formal events and have even started being used by celebrities for red carpets. In December 2022, we saw Kate Middleton in a green Solace dress at the Earthshot prize in Boston, rented for £74 from HURR, instead of being bought for £350. The use of rental services for events avoids the dreaded onewear items that do nothing but take up space in your wardrobe and feed into the industries overconsumption problem. This is something that we are all guilty of, with one in eight people in the UK buying a new clothing item every week, wardrobes holding £1.6bn of unworn garments and a quarter of the clothes we do own not having been worn for a year (Wrap, 2022).

So why choose rental? First and foremost, renting reduces the rates of overconsumption and ‘wear once’ items. This, in turn, reduces overproduction of stock meaning less resources used and less textile waste. Similarly, 90% of the carbon footprint of an item happens in the production phase therefore by renting an item the production produced carbon is split over every person that is wearing it. Secondly, it gives consumers the chance to wear clothes they wouldn’t usually have access too – and for a hugely discounted price. On average, rental prices are typically around 10% of the RPP, which is a huge advantage for the consumer. Not only that, but rental can also be a great way to earn some passive income by uploading your own clothing items for others to rent. Remember – sharing is caring - for others and the planet! So if you have a wedding to attend, a party or a formal event, or you just want to try something new – consider renting instead of buying yet another ‘wear-once’ item.

These Bloody Pants !

You’re sat on the toilet, Wearing your red period pants, That are meant to be sexy pants, But you’ve had them for 9 years. They’re holey and rough, but comforting.

You’re hunched over notes, Using your sexy red period pants

As a hammock to hold your phone in. Resting both elbows on both knees, You key in your fleeting thoughts, In hope of permanence.

These holey rough pants, have known you since you were 12. Long before you prayed

For your period to come poetry // these bloody pants!

After a not so thoughtful evening.

They are the old faithful, Always sat waiting, In their desinated drawer corner. So naturally yours for menstruation, That Mum knows exactly which, To pick up for a vacation. In their impressive lifetime, They have met 1296 sanitary towels, 3 boyfriends, Several lovers, 6 Andcountries for that I am inspired. And perhaps there is permanence after all.

- Xanthe Lowrie