Hidden gems in historic Kilkenny

An ancient city that offers fun for the whole family, writes FIONA AUDLEY

FROM first look the delights of Kilkenny city and its surrounding areas are pretty evident.

This is one of Ireland’s historical highlights and, understandably, a prized location on the nation’s Ancient East map.

With its castle, two cathedrals and multitude of ancient buildings, this is clearly a city of note – it was, of course, once the medieval capital of Ireland.

But it is not until you get right on the ground and into the thick of Kilkenny that you can genuinely appreciate its magnetism, as you find the hidden gems that make it a truly enticing city offering something for visitors of all ages.

We recently spent a short break in the city, with our three young children in tow, and found ourselves with barely enough time to scratch the surface of the exciting offerings to be enjoyed throughout its medieval streets.

Luckily, we were well-positioned while staying at the stylish Hotel Kilkenny, which is just a short walk from the city centre.

The hotel, with its luxurious décor and cosy yet elegant furnishings, proved the perfect base for a whistlestop tour of Kilkenny city.

With a bustling, state-of- the-art gym as well as a large indoor pool, steam room and sauna we managed to start each morning by partaking in a range of leisure activities that suited all ages in our party and set us

ARTERY OF THE CITY: The River Nore flows through Kilkenny up well for a day of sight-seeing. But first we fuelled up on a hearty Irish breakfast, cooked to order, at the hotel’s Taste restaurant – from where there are equally delicious dinners on offer too – before heading out to explore.

[As

a result of the Ancient

East initiative] Kilkenny’s ancient history highlights have been packaged up in the Ireland’s Medieval Mile discovery trail

Now when I say there is a lot to explore in Kilkenny, I mean there is a lot to explore.

Fortunately, despite Kilkenny winning city status in 1609, in terms of its size it’s really more like a large town.

Which means that you can get to the many highlights it has to offer on foot, ensuring the best possible use of our time.

And in a city which manages to boast a castle, two cathedrals – St Canice’s Church of Ireland Cathedral and St Mary’s Catholic Cathedral –various churches and a brewery within its boundaries – there were plenty of places that we wanted to visit while there.

Luckily for us, Kilkenny is a focus point of Ireland’s Ancient East

Ireland’s Medieval Mile – some of the highlights

Kilkenny Castle

A 12th century castle set in extensive parklands built for William Marshall and remodelled in Victorian times. This was the principal seat of the Butler family, Marquesses and Dukes of Ormonde. The castle park and gardens are accessible free of charge, while daily tours of the castle are available.

Medieval Mile Museum

Unearth 800 years of history at this newly-opened museum, located in the heart of Kilkenny City and at the centre of the Medieval Mile trail. Tickets are available for daily entry via www.medievalmilemuseum.ie

Hole in the Wall

This hidden 16th century tavern is located in Ireland’s oldest surviving townhouse, which today serves as a unique venue for an array of cultural events. Find out more at www.holeinthewall.ie

Smithwicks Experience Kilkenny

With over 300 years brewing experience this tour leads you on a journey through the history of Ireland’s favourite ale. From the 1300s, when the monks of St Francis Abbey first discovered how to make beer, to the processes that currently produce a pint of Smithwicks. www.smithwicksexperience.com

St Canice’s Cathedral and Round Tower initiative, devised by the national tourism board Fáilte Ireland. were drawn to the spot due to its naturally cool temperatures.

A site for Christian worship led by St Canice in the 6th century, the cathedral was erected in the 13th century. It boasts one of only two medieval round towers in Ireland that can be climbed - the 9th century tower also offers some of the best views of the city. Daily tours are available for both attractions.

That drive has been promoting the highlights of medieval Ireland, largely found along the country’s eastern coast, to tourists and natives who have yet to experience it.

As a result, Kilkenny’s ancient history highlights have been packaged up in the Ireland’s Medieval Mile discovery trail – which takes you from Kilkenny Castle across town to St Canice’s Cathedral, and includes 21 other points of interest to stop at along the way.

Although the highlight for us, and our children, was definitely the castle – I mean, who doesn’t love a real-life castle?

This impressive building sits at the top of the city, along the banks of the River Nore, and looms large on the hustle and bustle of what is in fact quite a cosmopolitan space below.

It offers stunning gardens to roam outside and plenty of history inside, as this 12th century Anglo-Norman structure has had a number of owners in its time and has been consistently reinvented over the centuries.

It was eventually handed over to the people of Ireland for a token payment of £50 in 1967 and has been lovingly restored to its former glory since then, ready for tourists and Kilkenny natives to finally explore.

But there is as much to savour in the grounds outside this historic building, which has a vast open space and an enticing playground, flanked by an open-air coffee shop, so plenty to keep us all entertained for the duration of our time there.

From there the tour winds its way through the town, with a stop every few minutes or so offering more of Kilkenny’s heritage.

Among my highlights were the Rothe House and Garden, which was built in 1594 by local merchant and former Kilkenny City mayor John Rothe as a home for himself, his wife and their 11 children.

This antiquated townhouse is something of a hidden gem – nestled within the city lanes, where it consists of three houses and a 17th century urban garden which was built on its roof.

To step from Kilkenny’s modern streets into this ancient abode is truly like stepping back in time.

As with the castle, simply being in this house transports you to a time and place you could never have imagined, but there is enough information and original artefacts on display here to allow you a sense of what it might have been like for those who once called it home.

Elsewhere another small but impactful element of the mile, is the unassuming, but full of character, Butter Slip.

This is simply a small passageway linking Kilkenny’s High Street to the parallel St Kieran’s Street, but with its high arch and stone steps it is a beautiful example of the architectural delights of medieval Ireland.

For me, it epitomises the charming juxtaposition of Kilkenny – a city full of modern eloquence, with a glossy exterior, but founded on a culture, history and purpose that refuses to be forgotten.

For my children it was an exciting portal into a world gone by, with a catchy name, that keeps being mentioned even now, while we are back at home in London.

Another highlight of our trip was found just outside of the city centre when we took a trip to the Castlecomer Discovery Park.

Located roughly a 25-minute drive from the city, this was an absolute gem of a find, and well worth the trip.

Traditionally, Castlecomer was a mining town.

Mining began there in the 17th century with the extraction of iron ore and continued until the closure of its coal mines in 1969.

Set in the former grounds of the Wandesforde Estate, which was once owned by the Wandesforde family, who originally came from Richmond in Yorkshire, the park comprises 80 acres of stunning natural woodland and lakes.

Where to stay...

Hotel Kilkenny

The perfect base for exploring Kilkenny, with an on-site gym, pool, steam room and sauna. For booking and further information visit www.hotelkilkenny.ie somewhat fallen into disrepair with the closure of its mining industry.

Today, it boasts a fascinating Coal Mining Exhibition, visitor centre and design craft studios which are located in what would have been the former stable yard of the Wandesworth Eatate.

Its outdoor space is stunning and offers plenty of room to roam – as well as an adventure playground for younger explorers, a tree top trail for older climbers and a bouncy net which would be fun for anyone who is able to get on it.

The short walk through this slip evokes notions of what went on was once the street market loca-

The short walk through this slip evokes notions of what went on here in its past – as this is a passageway, built in 1616, which was once the street market location for butter vendors, who

It opened to the public in 2007, having begun as a community project to reju- venate the town which which had the perfect end to a brief Kilkenny holiday which offered everything we could have hoped for.

Don’t miss…

Our day at Castlecomer proved the perfect end to a brief Kilkenny holiday which offered everything we could have hoped for.

Historic fun, outdoor activities and plenty of memories to take home with us.

Historic fun, outdoor activities and plenty of memories to take home with us.

“I want my legacy to be lasting peace in Ireland”

Co-operation Ireland works with divided and troubled communities in Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland to help build a lasting peace. By remembering us in your will you can make a real difference depending from first

Three-bed bungalow on 2.5 acres in a lovely location, near the Shannon. Needs renovation work, and will qualify for new renovation grants up to €50,000. Nice setting, back from the road (see area outlined in red, right) Price: £115k / €130k. For call John: 0791 343 3898

RINEY, John Brendan

After a brave and courageous battle with cancer, John sadly passed away on the 12th April 2023 aged 48. Beloved husband to Monika, father to Dominic, Jipsie, Keira-Anne, John, Rylan, Anna-Marie and Nola. Stepfather to Wiktor, brother to Eileen, Kate, Charlotte and Helen.

The Funeral Mass will take place on 12 May, 2023 at St John’s Catholic Cathedral, Bishop Crispian Way, Portsmouth, PO1 3HG at 12.15pm, followed by the committal at Portchester Crematorium, Upper Cornaway Lane, Portchester, Fareham PO16 8NE at 2:15pm. The wake is at 3pm at Cams Mill, Cams Hall Estate Golf Club, Portchester PO16 8UP All welcome. No flowers please. Donations to Blood Cancer UK.

We remember...

John Looney

Late of Walton Park, Liverpool and Cooraclare, Co. Clare – Died 12th March, 2023.

A Mass will be celebrated in memory of our beloved brother John in the Blessed Sacrament R.C. Church, 7-9 Park Vale Road, Liverpool L9 2DG on Saturday 20th May, 2023 at 4.30 pm.

John’s family from Ireland will be in attendance at this Mass and would be delighted to meet his friends from Liverpool there. “His ways were always quiet, he never cared for fuss, just to be remembered by all of us”.

R.I.P. John; you may be gone but you will never be forgotten. The Looney Family, Co. Clare, Ireland.

Prayer to the Blessed Virgin (NEVER KNOWN TO FAIL)

O beautiful flower of Mount Carmel, Fruitful Vine, Splendour of Heaven, Blessed mother of the son of God, Immaculate Virgin, assist me in this my necessity.

O star of the sea, help me and show me herein you are my mother.

I humbly beseech you from the bottom of my heart to succour me in this my necessity (make request)

There are none that withstand your power, Mary conceived without sin, pray for us who have recourse to thee (three times).

Holy Mother I place this cause in your hands (three times)

Thank you for your mercy to me and mine.

This prayer must be said for three days and after that it will be God’s will, the request will be granted and the prayer must be published.

Novena to the Sacred Heart

Dear Heart of Jesus, in the past I have asked for many favours, This time I ask for this special one (mention request).

Take it dear heart of Jesus and place it within your own broken heart, where your father sees it, then in His merciful eyes it will become your favour not mine. Amen (Say for three days and promise publication).

Never known to fail.

A.D.