Prague In Your Pocket

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Prague Summer 2016

Further Afield

Check out our mini-guides to Kutná Hora, Olomouc and Pilsen

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Contents Arrival & Transport

6

Kafka’s Prague

38

History

8

Kutná Hora

50

Olomouc

54

What’s On 12

Pilsen

58

Restaurants

16

Shopping

62

Cafes

26

Leisure

64

Nightlife

28

Directory

66

Essential Prague

32

Hotels

67

Prague Castle

34

Maps & Index

Sightseeing

38

Jewish Prague

44

City centre map City map Street register

The National Museum

36

Basics

10

70 72 74

The Old Town square - just one of the spots in our ‘Essential Prague’ selection. Find it on page 32.

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Summer 2016

3

Foreword The sun is shining and we are smiling: welcome to Prague In Your Pocket’s summer issue. As always, we are pleased to share with you the very best this city has to offer, and every page offers something worth knowing. Do be sure to take the time to read our specials features: – Kafka’s Prague on page 48, or our in-depth look at Jewish Prague which begins on page 44.

Publisher WIYP Sp. z o.o.

Ul. Bohaterow Monte Cassino 6/1 81-805 Sopot Poland tel. +48 602 77 95 81 prague@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com

At this time of year we love hanging out al fresco, like Petřín (page 42) or a beer garden (we have a list on page 30), both excellent ways to see a bit of Prague’s greener side.

ISSN 1213-2128 © WIYP Sp. z o.o.

Summer is of course the most popular time for travel, and as such we are showcasing three great Czech cities well worth exploration if you have the time: Kutná Hora and Pilsen make great day trips, or head east to Olomouc in Moravia for a longer excursion.

Editorial Editor Jacy Meyer Layout Tomáš Haman, Photos In Your Pocket (unless stated) Cover © Richard Van Der Woude | Dreamstime.com

Wherever you go, have a great visit.

Sales & Circulation General & Sales Manager Martin Kitson prague@inyourpocket.com

COVER STORY

Copyright notice & Editor’s note Text, photos (unless otherwise stated) and maps copyright PIYP s.r.o. 2000-2016. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

The second of Prague’s big three (Square, Bridge, Castle) graces the cover of our summer issue this year. There will always be crowds here, although you can see it in a little more peace and quiet if you get up with the sun (about 5am) and wander across in relative calm. You can also turn a trip across the bridge into an educational walk, with our guide its statues on page 42.

The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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4 Prague In Your Pocket

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Arrival & Transport

Don’t forget to stamp your ticket on-board

Prague is well-connected regarding transport, with its own airport just 20 km from the city centre. The city also boasts a comprehensive and easy-to-use public transportation system, which some visitors won’t even find necessary thanks to most attractions being within easy walking distance of one another (not to mention walking being one of the best ways to enjoy Prague).

In this section you’ll find all you need to know about getting in and out of Prague, as well as around the city with general ease.

AIRPORT VÁCLAV HAVEL AIRPORT PRAGUE Prague’s airport is 20 km from the city centre. A taxi to the town centre costs around 600Kč. You can get one from the taxi ranks outside, Fix Taxi and AAA Radiotaxi are the airport’s official taxi companies. Alternatively, use the ČEDAZ minibus service (tel. 220 116 758, 07:30 19:00) that runs every half hour between the airport and V Celnici Street about 50 metres from Náměstí Republiky (F-2). Tickets cost 150Kč (including one piece of baggage, children under 6 free) and can be bought from the driver or from the booth in the arrival terminal.

The cheapest way to get into town is by bus: N°119 (2-8 times per hour between 04:18 and 00:10 with at least one wheelchair-friendly bus per hour) runs between the airport and the Veleslavín metro station (Line A, green) in about 15 minutes. Bus N°100 whisks you to Zličín (metro Line B, yellow) from the airport in 18 minutes. You can download 6 Prague In Your Pocket

maps of the public transport network from the transit authority website (dpp.cz). There is an Airport Express (AE) bus from Hlavní Nádraží which runs every half an hour, whizzing you across the city in about 30 minutes. Special fares apply to this bus, tickets can only be bought from the driver and do not allow any transfers nor can be used on other forms of transport. First & last buses from Hlavní Nádraží 05:15 & 21:45, from the airport 04:40 & 21:10.

A 32Kč transport ticket (plus a 10Kč one for big bags) will get you all the way into town or to the airport on all public transport except the Airport Express. Tickets can be bought at the friendly transport information desk in both arrival halls (open 07:00 - 22:00) or from the coin-operated machine at the airport bus stop, but not from the driver.

You need to validate the ticket (once for the whole trip) in the machines on board the bus.

Prague’s Terminal 2 allows for at least four million more passengers a year to travel into Prague with the ability to expand to move even more. New bars, restaurants, shops and services ply their trade in this terminal which accommodates flights to and from Schengen countries (Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Italy, Greece, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Greece, Spain & Sweden). Terminal 1 is for all other destinations.

There is a left luggage facility at the airport which doesn’t close and costs 120Kč per item per day. Other bonus facilities include a branch of the Prague City Tourism Office, showers and a free cinema.QPraha 6, K Letišti 6/1019, tel. (+ 420) 220 11 18 88, www.prg.aero/en. prague.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Transport TRAINS Prague has two main railway stations. Praha Hlavní nádraží (main station) and Praha Holešovice. Hlavní nádraží is architecturally fabulous (in the Jugendstil tradition) although you won’t know it until you exit its underground nightmare. The second station, Praha Holešovice is used by trains on the main Berlin - Prague - Vienna/Bratislava route.

PRAGUE MAIN RAILWAY STATION (PRAHA HLAVNÍ NÁDRAŽÍ) A complete overhaul in the past few years has made Prague’s main train station actually quite attractive and dare we say user-friendly. Shops, restaurants and a grocery store means all loitering bases are covered, and there is a metro station downstairs from the terminal. You can check train schedules online at www.idos.cz and book tickets on České dráhy’s (state railway company) trains at www.cd.cz.

Other train operators include RegioJet (www.regiojet.cz, also has buses) and Leo Express (www.le.cz).QH‑9, Praha 1, Wilsonova 8, www.cd.cz/en.

PRAHA HOLEŠOVICE The second station, Praha Holešovice is used by trains on the main Berlin - Prague - Vienna/Bratislava route. The small hall holds the ticket office, left luggage lockers, an internet café and several exchange and accommodation offices. It is three stops on the metro to Muzeum.QH‑3, Partyzánská 1546/26, tel. (+ 420) 224 61 58 65. Ticket office open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

TAXIS The starting rate should be about 25Kč, and 20Kč per kilometre after that (34Kč/25Kč respectively if you hail an honest one on the street). From central Prague, a ride to the airport has risen to about 600Kč; a short ride in the city centre should be about 130Kč, a ride to one of the surrounding districts up to 200Kč.

There’s really no need to agree beforehand on a price (a good way to get ripped off) if you simply phone one of the reliable taxi companies listed below who will usually have a car ready under ten minutes. Else, hail only their cars if you must.

AAA - RADIOTAXI The most reputable company in town is also one of the certified taxi companies for Prague’s airport. You can order through their website, download their mobile app or call direct. They will send you a sms with estimated cost of your ride and the make and model of your taxi.QPraha 6, Wuchterlova 566/7, tel. 14014/+420 222 333 222, www. aaataxi.cz/en.

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PUBLIC TRANSPORT Prague’s public transport system (Dopravní podnik) is efficient, fast and reasonably clean. With three metro lines, 26 tram routes and nine night trams you won’t need the bus routes that avoid the centre. Keep in mind that the centre of Prague is easily accessible on foot.

Tickets, valid for all means of transport, can be purchased from the numerous vending machines at all metro stations, major tram stops and news stands.

You always need to validate your ticket yourself by stamping it in the machines at metro entrances and on trams. The most common ticket is the 32Kč transfer ticket, which is valid for 90 minutes after validating. The 24Kč non-transfer ticket is meant for tram rides under 30 minutes with no changes, or in the metro for up to 5 stations (changes allowed) from the departure station within 30 minutes. We suggest you save yourself time by buying a handful of these on arrival. If you’re planning to stay a bit and explore, get the one-day pass (110Kč)or a three-day pass (310Kč). Children under 6 travel free; and tickets are half price up to 15 years old. Large pieces of luggage (including rucksacks) cost an extra 13Kč while dogs ride the rails for 26Kč. Fines for no validated tickets are 800Kč if paid on the spot or pay 1,000Kč later.

Trams trundle around town every few minutes; useful lines are N°22 and 23 which run from the centre up to the rear entrance of the castle, saving you the uphill walk. The metro connects the two main train stations and Florenc bus station to the centre and runs up to just after midnight, after which the night trams (the warm mobile home to many a smelly tramp) take over, zipping in all directions from the Lazarská stop (H-5) every half hour. Tram information is on the red signs at each stop and is generally correct assuming of course that some worn out Škoda hasn’t died on the tram lines.

Beware of Prague’s ultra-professional pickpockets, especially on trams N°22 and 23 and in busy metro cars; consider waiting for the next train if it looks squeezed.

For more information visit Dopravní podnik’s excellent website with English and German information on routes and schedules, at www.dpp.cz, or call tel. 222 62 37 77.

TRAVEL INFORMATION CENTRE All you ever wanted to know about routes, tariffs, tickets, timetables, re-routings and service disruptions, maps and general information about Prague’s bus, tram and metro system from multi-lingual folk. Information centres can be found in the following metro stations: Můstek, Hlavní nádraží (main railway station), Anděl, Hradčanská, Nádraží Veleslavín and at Václav Havel Airport in both terminals.QPraha 1, 28. října, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 296 19 18 17, www.dpp.cz/en/ infocentres. Open 07:00 - 21:00. Also at E-4, Můstek, Jungmannovo nám., Open 07:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun; Anděl, Open 07:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun; Prague Airport Terminals 1 & 2, Open 07:00 - 22:00.

Summer 2016

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Basic history Prague’s New Town Hall in the first of what would be many such acts over Prague’s history. Interesting, Prague only had one Hussite king, Jiří z Poděbrad. You can visit his square today in Prague 3.

‘I see a great city whose glory will touch the stars.’ So said Libuše, daughter of mythical Czech ruler Krok, as she stood on a rocky cliff above the Vltava River. She ordered a castle to be built on the spot – now called Vyšehrad – and the legend of the founding of Prague in the 8th century was born. After the death of her father, she became queen and married a ploughman named Přemysl. Together, they went on to found the Přemyslid dynasty which ruled the Czech lands until 1306.

Whether the part of this myth about the creation of Prague is true or not, the region was the launch of the Přemyslid dynasty’s march to take over the rest of Bohemia. Prince Bořivoj began Prague Castle as the dynasty’s main seat in 870, with Vyšehrad taking a back seat. Christianity came to the region courtesy of Good King Wenceslas of Christmas carol fame. He unfortunately was murdered by his brother, however is the country’s patron saint. (St. Wenceslas Day is a public holiday celebrated 28 September).

The region became part of the Holy Roman Empire following a conquering from Germany but in an unusual display of political cooperation, a Slav alliance was formed

by Přemysl princes who ruled on the Germans behalf. In 1212, Otkar 1 bestowed royal privilege on Staré Město and in 1257, on Malá Strana – Prague’s first two official quarters.

What is often termed Prague’s golden age is the period from 1346-1378 when King Charles IV ruled as king and Holy Roman emperor. His fingerprint can be seen all over the city – from Charles University to Charles Bridge to Charles Square (Karlovo náměstí in Nové Město). After his death, his son Wenceslas IV took over and Prague became one of the most beautiful towns, leading to its nickname ‘Rome of the North.’ Its appearance did not change for another 200 years.

Church reform came to Prague and the region in the late 14th-15th centuries courtesy of the Hussites. Jan Hus was the firebrand preacher and martyr who was eventually burned at the stake in 1415, sparking a nationalist rebellion.

A variety of events came out of this uprising, but one of the most interesting is the word defenestration - the act of throwing someone or something out of a window. Seven Catholic councillors were unceremoniously tossed from 8 Prague In Your Pocket

The second half of the 15th century proved more peaceful and productive when the Austrian Habsburgs came to rule.

The spirit of the Renaissance infused Prague and Emperor Rudolf II added to the city’s lustre by making it the imperial seat of the Holy Roman Empire. The Habsburgs though were Catholic and tensions were still strong between them and the Protestants. The Second Defenestration of Prague (1618) was due to these strains; two Habsburg councillors and their secretary were tossed from an upper window in Prague Castle. A major Protestant defeat in the Battle at White Mountain (1620) saw Ferdinand II installed on the Czech throne and the city became a provincial capital, without power or importance. Even the first woman on the Czech throne, Empress Maria Theresa (1740-80) didn’t do much to raise hopes of its revival. Her son, Josef II, most famed acts were his zealous abolition of convents, monasteries, and churches, coupled with an intense national repression.

Fast forward to the 18th century when things began looking up. Prague’s four towns of Staré Město, Malá Strana, Hradčany and Nové Město were formed into a single unit and Baroque and later Classicism came to the city’s palaces, churches and monuments. A love of Czech language and literature sparked the 19th century’s National Revival. At the time German was the official language of the country and a surge of national pride led intellectual types to lead the charge in re-establishing ‘Czechism.’ The Neo-Renaissance style symbolized the rebirth of the Czech nation, a style that can be seen today buildings closely associated with Czech national culture like the National Museum, the National Theatre and the Rudolfinum.

Now it is 1914. Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria also being Royal Prince of Hungary and Bohemia (the AustroHungarian Dual Monarchy of the Austrian Empire and Kingdom of Hungary, of which Prague is a part of, was established in 1867) and his wife Sophie were living just outside of Prague in Konopiště castle when they were assassinated while visiting Sarajevo. This act launched World War I, and eventually led to the forming of the Czechoslovakia on October 28, 1918, with Prague as its capital. This date is still a public holiday in Czech Republic, but interestingly, not in Slovakia. From 1918 until World War II is what is known as the Frist Republic, a heyday of architectural and cultural expression. Functionalism morphed into Cubism; the House of the Black Madonna and the Municipal House are two important buildings from this time.

World War II devastated Europe, but the buildings of Prague at least remained mostly intact. The same cannot be said for the city’s Jewish population; about three-quarters did not return from concentration camps. The city’s Jewish Quarter though did survive, sadly because Adolf Hitler had envisioned prague.inyourpocket.com

Basic history the neighbourhood as a museum to ‘an extinct race.’ After six years of occupation by Nazi Germany, Czechoslovakia was liberated in 1945. In 1948, the Communist Party of Czechoslovakia, with Soviet Union support, took control of the country under what is known today as the Czechoslovak coup d'état. What followed was four decades under communism. An attempt at a period of political liberalisation occurred in 1968. Communist Party of Czechoslovakia head Alexander Dubček made efforts to reform communism in what is today known as the Prague Spring. The trial of what he called ‘socialism with a human face’ involved a loosening of the laws governing media, speech and travel, among other freedoms. The endeavour lasted barely seven months as the alarmed Soviet Union coordinated an invasion of Czechoslovakia by members of the Warsaw Pact. The next two decades were a time of ‘normalization’ as subsequent leaders rolled back all of Dubček’s reforms.

Those years were a low point for the country and it all came to a quick end beginning November 17, 1989. On that day, students held a sanctioned march in honour of National Students Day. As the students slowly made their way peacefully to Wenceslas Square, they were met by riot police. The police blocked the streets and beat some of the students, an action which horrified much of the population and led to a series of demonstrations through the month.

The top leadership of the Communist Party resigned on November 24, 1989 and Václav Havel was elected President of Czechoslovakia on December 29.

The early 90s were a rollicking period with a push to liberalise prices and privatise the economy. Conflict between Czechs and Slovaks remained and what came to be known as the Velvet Divorce was finalised on January 1, 1993 when the country spilt in two. The country’s push towards the West continued with the Czech Republic quickly becoming members of NATO (1999), the European Union (2004) and the internal border free region of the Schengen zone (2008).

Political strife continues, but despite the politicians the country in the 21st century has a strong economy and most citizens sport a positive outlook for their future.

Plaque commemorating the peaceful student march on November 17, 1989 which led to the start of the Velvet Revolution.

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HISTORICAL TIMELINE 870: Prague Castle founded 1347: Coronation of Charles IV as King of Bohemia; Prague becomes capital of the Holy Roman Empire 1348: New Town founded outside Prague’s city walls 1410: Astronomical Clock installed in Old Town Hall 1503: Charles Bridge completed. The first stone was laid by King Charles IV (a strong believer in numerology) at 5:31 am on 9 July 1357 1755: St. Nicholas Church in Malá Strana is built. Under Communism a couple hundred years later, the church tower was used as an observatory by State Security. From the tower watchful eyes could keep watch on the American, Yugoslav and West German embassies 1859: The Josef quarter becomes part of the city of Prague 1885: Rudolfinum concert hall is opened 1891: Petřín Lookout Tower is built 1918: Prague becomes capital of newly formed Czechoslovakia 1931: Prague Zoo opens. Its first resident is a wolf named Lotta 1939: Nazi invasion of Czechoslovakia, the Czech portion of which becomes a German protectorate; Slovakia is deemed an independent state with pro-facist leader Josef Tiso 1948: Czechoslovak coup d’état leading to Communist Party rule 1968: Prague Spring political liberalization, Warsaw Pack countries invade 1969: In protest of the 1968 invasion, student Jan Palach sets himself on fire on Wenceslas Square 1977: Charter 77 is published by a group of dissidents including playwright Vaclav Havel. It calls for the restoration of civil and political rights 1989: Velvet Revolution leading to the overthrow of Communist rule 1990: First free elections since 1946 are held; Vaclav Havel elected president 1993: Velvet Divorce leading to breakup of Czechoslovakia 1999: Czech Republic becomes a member of NATO 2002: Vltava overflows its banks leading to major flooding throughout Prague. Twenty-nine metro stations were underwater and many were closed for months afterwards.

2004: Czech Republic joins the European Union with 10 other countries 2013: First directly elected presidential elections take place; Miloš Zeman is chosen for a five-year term 2016: The Czech government announces that the country’s international name to be Czechia, and not the Czech Republic. Amidst public indifference, the announcement is largely ignored.

Summer 2016

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City Basics FACTS & FIGURES TERRITORY The Czech Republic’s 78,866 square kilometres ranges from rolling vineyards in the south east to mountains suitable for skiing in the north to high plains in the centre. It shares a border with four countries: Germany, Poland, Slovakia and Austria.

RIVERS The Vltava, which runs through Prague, is the country’s longest river at 430 kilometres. It hooks up with the Elbe (Labe) near the town of Mělník which eventually makes its way to the North Sea. While the famed Danube doesn’t flow through the country, the Morava River meets it in Bratislava.

MOUNTAINS The Czech Republic is surrounded on nearly all sides with mountains. In fact, two of the countries four national parks border mountain ranges: Šumava and the Krkonoše. The country’s highest point is in the Krkonoše, Sněžka sits at 1602 metres above sea level.

Other high points of interest included Ještěd near the town of Liberec which has a unique hotel & restaurant structure sitting atop its 1012 metres.

POPULATION (2015) Czech Republic - 10.5 mil Prague - 1.2 mil Brno - 378,000 LOCAL TIME Czech Republic is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Prague it’s 6:00 am in New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Czech summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

CLIMATE Czech Republic has a temperate climate with warm summers and cold winters. Seasons tend to blend together with lots of unpredictability especially in the spring and autumn. Summer temperatures can reach 30 C, but mid to high 20s is more likely. In the winter, snow is a possibility in Prague with temperatures rarely dropping below 0 C in the city. The mountainous areas are colder and with more snow.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: ambulance: 155; fire: 150; police: 158. English speaking operators will always be available if you phone 112.

For urgent medical emergencies, the hospital Nemocnice na Františku in Prague 1 has a special department for foreigners (Na Františku 847/8; +420 222 801 111; Bus 207).

Chemist shops are on nearly every block, look for a lékárna.

Most keep weekday hours only with some being open till noon or 13:00 on Saturdays. The lékárna at Palackého 5 in Prague 1 is open 24 hours (+420 224 946 982; Můstek metro, green or yellow line). There’s a dental clinic (+420 224 946 981) at the same address. If you are not up to battling a Czech hospital, contact the Canadian Medical Centre (+420 235 360 133 during business hours; +420 724 300 301 for an emergency, at night or on weekends).

Further help can be provided by contacting your local embassy or consulate.

LAW & ORDER In general Prague is far safer than most West European cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Be especially vigilant on public transit and in crowded tourist areas like Wenceslas Square.

Unless you are planning a crime spree, most people shouldn’t fall afoul of Czech authorities. Be smart if you are with a group who may be taking full advantage of Prague’s affordable alcohol prices. Rowdy groups have been known to run into trouble through vandalism and public urination; both of which are frowned upon. Most people won’t be out to cause trouble if you are respectful of them. Men especially should be aware of nightclubs and strip clubs in which the hefty prices for drinks and other services can be forcibly required.

ELECTRICITY

Czechs rank amongst the highest cannabis users in Europe.

While cultivation and distribution of cannabis is a criminal offence, possession for personal use of an amount ‘greater than small’ is only a misdemeanour punishable by a fine but not by imprisonment. According to the Czech Supreme Court, an amount ‘greater than small’ of herbal cannabis equals 10 grams of dry matter. Again, be smart and don’t toke up in front of a cop.

Electricity in Czech Republic is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. If you are coming from the US, UK or Ireland you will need a plug converter. Buy one before your trip or check out the airport shops before leaving or upon arrival. You can try your luck with your hotel reception but if they don’t have one to loan you they should be able to direct you to the nearest store to purchase one.

Public transport is cheap and easy - don’t ride black.

All tram, metro and bus lines regularly have inspectors roaming and they are experts at picking out tourists. Buy a ticket and be sure to validate it in the yellow box. Having an unvalidated ticket is the same as no ticket at all in the eyes of the ticket inspectors.

10 Prague In Your Pocket

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City Basics TOILETS

MARKET VALUES Prices in Czech Republic are still quite low compared to Western European countries, especially when it comes to dining out and attractions. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of May 28, 2016 based on €1 = 27Kč.

McDonald's Big Mac Snickers 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread Pack of Marlboro cigarettes 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

50 Kč 13 Kč 150 Kč 18 Kč 35 Kč 23 Kč 100 Kč 33 Kč 32 Kč

€ 1.85 € 0.48 € 5.55 € 0.67 € 1.30 € 0.85 € 3.70 € 1.22 € 1.16

MONEY Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 500Kč notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, and even the occasional restaurant or bar, will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments.

Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘směnárna’ although they all typically say ‘currency’ too. While you can find some good exchange rates, be wary of those located in high tourist areas. You best bet is to withdraw money from the ATMs here. If you have a lot left over, exchanging back into Euros isn’t typically too costly.

While prices on some goods, like electronics, clothing and food in shops, seems rather high, eating out and enjoying the country’s many cultural attractions is still extremely affordable. Both Prague public transportation and bus and train fares around the country are very affordable. A ticket to the cinema typically costs 140Kč, while admission to most museums costs around 120Kč and you can see an opera for around 500Kč.

RELIGION Czech Republic is reported to be one of the most atheist countries in the world with 88.5% of people claiming to be non-religious or non-declared according to recent figures. Historically it wasn’t always this way with Christianity dominating until the first half of the 20th century. Today, about 10% of the population claim to be Roman Catholics. That being said, the country has a large number of churches, many of which can be visited. facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

Generally speaking, toilets in Czech Republic will be marked with a universal male or female body symbol.

If not, men should look for ‘muži’ and women should look for ‘ženy.’ Free toilets are hard to come by - even fast food restaurants have some sort of payment system or locked door in place - so plan to have at least a drink in a café or restaurant if you want to use their facilities. Most metro stations will have pay toilets, typically 10Kč. Have exact change unless you want an argument.

WATER Czech tap water is perfectly safe, although a large number of Czechs still prefer to buy it bottled. Still water is neperlivá voda while carbonated is perlivá voda. In restaurants, water is not complimentary, you’ll be forced to buy a small overpriced bottle. Some cafes are getting better, bringing a small glass with your coffee. Beer is still cheaper than water, even though there have been recent rumblings in Parliament about a law that would make at least one non-alcoholic drink the cheapest item on the menu.

NATIONAL HOLIDAY The Czech public holiday calendar is fairly well-spread out, affording workers the opportunity to stretch their holiday allocations a bit further. Unfortunately, if one of these dates falls on a Saturday or Sunday, no extra day off for you. In the centre, most restaurants will still be open and larger shops. In neighbourhoods though most places, especially food shops will be closed.

Some museums and other attractions may stay open, some may not so be sure to check their website before visiting. Public transport runs a Sunday schedule on public holidays. If you are planning on taking a bus or train to other parts of the country on or near one of these holidays, be prepared for crowds.

1 January Restoration Day of the Independent

Czech State, New Year’s Day 1 May Labour Day 8 May Liberation Day 5 July Saint Cyril and Methodius Day 6 July Jan Hus Day (burned at the stake

in 1415) 28 September St. Wenceslas Day 28 October Independent Czechoslovak State Day

(created in 1918) 17 November Struggle for Freedom

and Democracy Day 24 December Christmas Eve 25 December Christmas Day 26 December St. Stephen’s Day Summer 2016

11

Culture & Events

Check the schedule at the English language friendly Royal Theatre

Prague is something of a cultural Mecca, and not just because of the affordable tickets. There was always a lively tradition here (Mozart was celebrated as a hero in Prague while shunned in Vienna), and the influx of culture-hungry tourists in the past decade has led to an enormous variety of concerts. Tickets are best and easiest booked via the ticket agencies. Remember, going to the theatre or opera is still something of an event in Prague, and it’s courteous to dress up when visiting.

GALLERIES GALERIE LA FEMME Small but busy art space off of Pařížská Street, Galerie La Femme showcases an interesting programme of Czech

painters, graphic artists and sculptors.QF‑7, Bílkova 2, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 81 26 56, www.glf.cz.

Open 10:00 - 18:00.

ROBERT GUTTMANN GALLERY Named for a native Prague painter, the Robert Guttmann Gallery hosts temporary exhibitions featuring items from the Jewish Museum’s collections or aspects of modern Jewish life.QF‑7, U Staré školy 3, MStaroměstská, www. jewishmuseum.cz/en.

STONE BELL HOUSE (DŮM U KAMMENNÉHO ZVONU) The oldest Gothic house in Prague, hidden for years behind a neo-Baroque facade, has been superbly restored and now houses commendable art exhibitions run by the City Gallery of Prague.QF‑8, Staromětská nám. 13, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 828 245, www.en.ghmp.cz. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/60Kč.

THEATRE CZECH CONTEMPORARY ART

12 Prague In Your Pocket

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Paintings, graphics and sculptures

DIVADLO HYBERNIA Aimed at a tourist crowd, Hybernia shows a steady lineup of ballet and musicals for the non-Czech speaking set.

QG‑8, nám. Republiky 4, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 221 41 94 12, www.hybernia.eu.

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DIVADLO PONEC Prague’s premier place for contemporary dance. The best companies play here, as well as lots of dance and prague.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events movement festivals. If it’s happening in the dance world locally or globally, you’ll find it at Ponec. Performances usually start at 20:00 and there’s a bar open one hour prior to show time.QI‑8, Husitská 24, MFlorenc, tel. (+ 420) 222 72 15 31, www.divadloponec.cz. A­U­W ESTATES THEATRE (STAVOVSKÉ DIVADLO) The first theatre to be built in Prague, and it was also here that Mozart’s Don Giovanni made its debut to a rapturous Czech audience; the opera was destined to bomb in Vienna.QF‑8, Ovocný trh 1, tel. (+ 420) 224 22 85 03, www.narodni-divadlo.cz.

IMAGE BLACK THEATRE Black light theatre is unique to Prague and while there are many theatres offering performances, Image attendees will be treated to a fascinating mix of dance and pantomime.

QE‑9, Betlémská 5, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 732 156 343, www.imagetheatre.cz. Performances start at 20:00.

KARLÍN MUSIC THEATRE The theatre has a long history in the city; its first performance was the circus back in 1881. Fast forward to the floods of 2002 which saw the historic building practically destroyed. The theatre reopened in 2006 and has been hosting a string of popular musicals ever since.

QI‑7, Křižíkova 10, tel. (+ 420) 221 86 87 77, www.hdk. cz. 230-700 Kč €€. J­E­K­W LATERNA MAGIKA Laterna Magika developed a new way of combining theatre, dance, music and film for the 1958 Brussels Expo, and was doing multi-media performances before the word even existed. All productions are visually orientated with no spoken Czech – ideal for foreigners.QE‑9, Národní 4, tel. (+ 420) 222 22 20 41, www.laterna.cz. Performances start at 20:00. Tickets 735Kč.

ROYAL A multi-purpose cultural space showing theatre, films and more, Royal’s building has a long history and today is a revived gorgeous example of inter-war Czechoslovakia architecture and design. The Royal’s programme is very English-friendly with weekly Burlesque shows, new circus acts, film nights and more. The décor is living room style with lots of comfy chairs and tables scattered about in front of the stage, plus a long bar for drinks during the show.

QVinohradská 48, MNáměstí Míru, tel. (+ 420) 224 211 444, www.leroyal.cz. ŠVANDOVO DIVADLO Local and international plays, both classic and contemporary; always something interesting going on at Švandovo. They offer English subtitles on screens above the stage, so your best bet are seats in the balcony. Visit their website for other dramatic and occasionally musical interests.QC‑10, Štefánikova 57, tel. (+ 420) 234 65 11 11, www.svandovodivadlo.cz. facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

EXHIBITIONS 15.05 - 25.09 » EMPEROR CHARLES IV 1316-2016

This exhibition commemorates the life of Emperor Charles IV with an exceptional collection of cultural and artistic artefacts from the period of his life. The exhibition marks the 700th anniversary of his birth in 1316 and aims to show him as a unique figure in European political and cultural history. Charles IV was known as an educated, pious and judicious ruler and as one of history’s most generous patron of the arts. The exhibition sets out to tell the story of Charles IV through 170 exhibits and hundreds of period documents. After its run here, the exhibition will then move to Nuremburg from October 20 until March 5.QNational Gallery in Prague - Wallenstein Riding Hall, Valdštejnská 3, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 07 31 36, 280/190Kč. Family ticket 500Kč, www. charlesivinprague.com.

04.05 - 25.09 » RESTLESS FIGURES - EXPRESSION IN CZECH SCULPTURE 1880 - 1914

Fascinating exhibition for every sculpture lover – Restless Figures, take an up-close look at Czech sculptors from 1880-1914. Works from artists like Josef Václav Myslbek and František Bílek are shown alongside pieces from the likes of Auguste Rodin, Constantin Meunier and Antoine Bourdelle.

QMunicipal Library of Prague, Mariánské náměstí 98/1, tel. (+420) 222 31 04 89, en.ghmp.cz. Open 10:00-18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

17.06 - 30.04 » RETRO

Think you know what retro is? Come and be educated at the hip and happening Retro exhibition at the National Museum New Building. Here it won’t be all pastel furniture and tape recorders but a closer look at a movement that inspired everything from fashion to toys to household goods. Retro focuses on what was being produced in Czechoslovakia from the First Republic to the Velvet Revolution and includes lots of fashion along with furniture and applied arts.QH‑10, National Museum (New Building), Vinohradská 1, MMuzeum, tel. (+ 420) 224 497 111, www.nm.cz. Open 10:00-18:00, Wed 09:0018:00.

15.05 - 28.09 » THE SCEPTRE AND THE CROWN: CHARLES IV AND THE CZECH ROYAL CORONATIONS

Pretend you are royalty and check out some historical coronation paraphernalia at Prague Castle’s Imperial Stables. The exhibition covers the 1,000-year history of the coronation of Czech kings. On display are the Czech coronation jewels, the Coronation Rules issued by Charles IV, as well as the origin and development of the coronation ritual between the 11th and 19th centuries. The importance of St. Wenceslas Chapel inside St. Vitus Cathedral as well as paintings and fabrics are included.QPrague Castle Imperial Stables, Pražský hrad, tel. (+ 420) 224 372 434, www.hrad.cz/en.

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Culture & Events 05.02 - 04.09 » AFGHANISTAN - RESCUED TREASURES OF BUDDHISM

In cooperation with the National Museum of Afghanistan in Kabul, Prague’s Náprstek Museum offers a partial glimpse into the rich history and tradition of the Afghan region. Highlights include Afghan Buddhist relics from the first to ninth centuries AD. Due to the ongoing conflict in the region, many items of cultural importance have been destroyed. The artefacts brought to Prague were restored locally by restoration experts from the National Museum.QE‑9, Náprstkovo Museum, Betlémské nám. 1, MNárodní třída, tel. (+ 420) 224 497 501, www.nm.cz. Open 10:00-18:00, Wed 09:0018:00. Closed Mon.

03.06 - 28.08 » CONCERTO GLASSICO 2016 - THE CZECH ART OF GLASS

Czech glass is globally known and really beautiful stuff. It doesn’t make the best souvenir, so take in this exhibition for an in-depth look at the tradition of the industry.QTuscany Palace, Hradčanské nám. 182/5, free, czechartofglass. com/en. Open 10:00-18:00.

10.05 - 31.12 » ALFONS MUCHA - THE SLAV EPIC

Mucha fans won’t want to miss this final Prague opportunity to view the artist’s homage to his roots – The Slav Epic. A series of 20 huge canvases, Mucha intended it to be a monument for the Slavic people and he’s richly illustrated their history and civilization. Mucha worked on the paintings for 20 years and they were first unveiled in 1928 to celebrate ten years of an independent Czechoslovak nation. Currently, the exhibition is scheduled to close at the end of 2016 and tour at least China and Japan through 2018.QTrade Fair Palace, Dukelských hrdinů 47, MVltavská, tel. (+ 420) 224 301 122, www. ngprague.cz/en. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon.

12.05 - 05.02 » CIVITAS CAROLINA, OR, BUILDING WORKS DURING THE TIME OF CHARLES IV

Charles IV had a massive impact on all aspects of Prague and its citizens’ lives. This exhibition at the National Technical Museum takes a look at the architectural boom that occurred under his watch. Especially interesting for those who like historical construction machinery and methods. Highlights include a functioning replica of a medieval human-power driven wooden hoist and a fully functional replica of a Gothic pile driver.QF‑5, National Technical Museum, Kostelní 42, MVltavská, tel. (+ 420) 220 399 111, www.ntm.cz/en. Open 09:00-17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon.

24.06 - 10.10 » ALL HAIL SPORT

In this summer of Euro Cup and Olympics, All Hail Sport takes a look at the artistic side of sport – how are athletic endeavours portrayed through paintings, sculptures and collages? Presenting the work of more than 60 Czech artists from 1945 to today, the exhibition looks at how athletes 14 Prague In Your Pocket

aren’t the only ones inspired by sport.QJ‑3, DOX Centre for Contemporary Art, Poupětova 1, MHolešovice, tel. (+ 420) 295 568 111, www.dox.cz/en. Open 10:00 18:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 11.00-19.00. Closed Tue.

FESTIVALS 18.08 - 04.09 » LETNÍ LETNÁ

The Letni Letna Festival has become something of a fixture over in Letna Park with Czech and international circus and theatre acts performing, often for free, in the open-air. The whole thing has a very relaxed atmosphere and it’s a great place to visit if you’ve got kids in tow.QE‑6, Letná park, MHradčanská, www.en.letniletna.cz.

21.08 10:00 » CAJOMIR FEST

Tea lovers gather at Vyšehrad every summer for this traditional tea festival. Envisioned as the largest open air tea house in Europe, Čajomír Fest brings together tea masters, teahouses, potters and everyday tea lovers to explore the traditional and modern world of this globally revered drink.QVyšehradské sady, Štulcova, www. cajomir.cz/fest.

03.09 - 04.09 » FOODPARADE

A weekend of good food and drink in the open air, Foodparade brings together some of Prague’s top restaurants and chefs for two days of super eating. It’s a casual environment held in the gardens of the Troja Chateau with space and entertainment for the kids.

Open 10:00 - 21:00 Sat, 10:00 - 18:00 Sun.QE‑1, Troja Chateau, U trojského zámku 1, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+ 420) 283 85 16 14, www.foodparade.cz. 10:00 Every Saturday & Sunday.

05.09 - 24.09 » THE DVOŘÁK PRAGUE INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL

Dvořák Prague has had one purpose since launching in 2008: showcase the work of Czech composer Antonín Dvořák. Organizers do this by inviting top conductors and soloists as well as internationally recognized orchestras to present a lively line-up of not only Dvořák’s work but also that of his contemporaries. One of the best classical music festivals on Prague’s cultural calendar.Qwww. dvorakovapraha.cz/en.

SPECIAL EVENTS 04.07 - 03.09 » CORONATION FESTIVITIES FOR CHARLES IV

This year sees the 700th anniversary of King Charles IV as Czech king and the city are marking the occasion with a series of special events. Over this weekend there will be a torchlight procession to the Vyšehrad, a procession through Prague and a jousting tournament. Events will take places not only at Vyšehrad but also in the square and at Prague Castle.QF‑14, Vyšehrad, V Pevnosti 159/5b., MVyšehrad, tel. (+ 420) 241 41 03 48, www. karlovapraha.cz. prague.inyourpocket.com

The choice is yours!

W A NE OF ESS SUCC THOR U A THE EN ARM OF C CAL! I S U M

AN AMERICAN MUSICAL

LIBRETTO

LYRICS

MUSIC

IVAN MENCHELL

DON BLACK

FRANK WILDHORN

Is presented through special arrangement with Music Theatre International (MTI). www.MTIshows.com

ENGLISH SUBTITLES

Hlavní mediální partner

WWW.HDK.CZ

www.hdk.cz

Restaurants

Relax away from the crowds in the Miminoo Garden Restaurant (see p. 20)

Prague is aptly named the city of a hundred spires, but to the gastronomically inclined it’s also known as the city of a thousand restaurants. Prague’s cosmopolitan character is reflected by its increasingly international and excellent cuisine, although there are still plenty of tourist traps. The figures in brackets denote the approximate price of the cheapest and dearest main course on the menu. The opening hours we list are flexible and are rough guidelines as to when you can expect the chef to be working. Most restaurants will stop cooking 30-60 minutes prior to their stated closing hours. If business is slow people will have no qualms about shutting early particularly out of season. Service in general has improved considerably, although it can still be annoying slow. Also beware of using ‘thank you’ when paying for your bill. This is often taken to mean ‘Keep the change’.

When tipping, it is customary to round up. If you really enjoyed your meal a tip of 10% is appreciated. In most restaurants, expect the server to bring the bill and wait for you to pay. When handing over your crowns, include the tip, don’t leave it on the table. If you need change back, tell the server how much you want to pay – i.e. if you are paying with a 500Kč note and you want to get back 200Kč, tell the server 300Kč.

FAMILIES Prague isn’t the most child-friendly city when it comes to eating out with children. Some cafes will have a small children’s corner, but items like high chairs are hard to come by. Miminoo Garden Restaurant is a good place to try simply because of its open concept which lets parents enjoy their meal while the kiddies can run in the large green space. If they behave, you can challenge them to a 16 Prague In Your Pocket

round of minigolf. Pizza Nuovo is notable for two reasons, what kid doesn’t like pizza and not only do they have a kids corner, but there’s a babysitter there on weekends.

LIQUID The country is rightfully famous for its beer, so why not go with the flowing keg and make a meal out of it. Beer is affectionately called liquid bread here so you could consider it cultural. To honestly say you visited a museum while in Prague, check out the ‘exhibitions’ on tap at the Prague Beer Museum, a pub with about 30 different draught beers. Alternatively, enjoy nature while visiting and pull up a bench in the Letenské sady beer garden.

ROMANCE A sunset walk across Charles Bridge and through the winding streets of Prague is pretty romantic in itself, but you do have to eat. Keep the romantic streets close to you with a visit to Coda Restaurant’s rooftop terrace. Nothing says love like sipping a glass of champagne amidst the red roofs of Malá Strana. When day turns to night, lead your love through the winding rooms of U Maltézských rytířů for a candlelight dinner in their cosy cellars.

VEGETARIAN Maybe you really don’t eat meat, or maybe you’ve been in one too many Czech pubs and need a break. Either way, Prague isn’t so unfriendly to vegetarians anymore. Clear Head is a spacy place that serves up an international and creative menu of vegetarian and vegan dishes. For lunch, squeeze in to Country Life which creates a number of fresh dishes, including soup, daily. It is cafeteria style and you pay by weight. There’s also a great bio shop next door. prague.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants AMERICAN BAD JEFF’S BARBECUE One of the most enjoyed gourmet burgers in the city, Bad Jeff only makes a certain number of them a day, so be prepared with a second option if hungry folk got in before you. No worries if you miss out on the burger, the ribs are pure heaven and Jeff does some magical things with chicken as well.QH‑11, Praha 2, Americká 32, MNáměstí Míru, tel. (+ 420) 774 402 235, www.badjeffs.cz/en.

Open 12:00 - 15:00 and 18:00 - 23:00, Mon 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun, Note restaurant is closed from July 24 until August 15. ČESTR Meat. Lots of it. If you are thinking about a light meal, look elsewhere, this place is for hungry appetites. And adventurous ones too – the Čestr folks like to share their knowledge and will give detailed advice on which cuts to order. While the beef is the main draw for more people, they also offer lamb, chicken, ham and trout.

Cask Pilsner beer makes it just slightly better. Čestr is actually the name of a type of Czech spotted cow.

QH‑10, Legerova 75, MMuzeum, tel. (+ 420) 222 72 78 51, www.ambi.cz. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (135 - 650Kč). P­J­A­G­ K­W HARD ROCK CAFE If you’ve been to one, you’ve been to this one. Of course, the building is classic Prague, located right off of Old Town Square. The three-level rock venue is contradictorily located in a neo-renaissance building with a cool façade and frescos. Inside, in addition to the good food and rock memorabilia, be sure to note the 5-metre custom made guitar chandelier.QF‑8, Praha 1, Malé náměstí 3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 229 529, www.hardrock.com/cafes/prague/. (250 490Kč). A JÁMA One of the original American bars in Prague, Jama is still popular with long-time expats, local business people and fans of good beer. The location close to Wenceslas Square offers a great respite from the crowds with its laid-back and inviting atmosphere and staff. Unusual (for Prague) dishes include a taco salad, Cajun chicken steak and cheddar-bacon potato skins.

Both burgers and Mexican specialities are done well, plus they offer breakfast, weekends only from 11:0015:00 and a special night menu.QG‑10, V Jámě 7, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 222 967081, www.jamapub. cz. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Mon 11:00 - 24:00. (50 350Kč). T­A­G­B­W

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Restaurants MEAT AND GREET BURGERHOUSE A nice charred piece of beef on a solid bun, the burger list here is long. Their classic comes with cheddar and bacon, but opt for one with camembert and a cranberry sauce to liven things up. A variety of fries and sauces to add your own special touch, if you really don’t want a burger, don’t stop in.QG‑8, Senovážné náměstí 994/2, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 222 222 089, www. magburgerhouse.cz. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

THE CZECH MENU

Svíčková

CC-BY-3.0

Hearty meals meant to get you through a long cold winter, traditional Czech cuisine is heavy on the meat and starch. While some could categorise it as a bit stodgy if you find a good place it also can be considered flavourfully filling.

For a time-honoured Czech favourite try svíčková.

Probably the most often named ‘traditional’ Czech dish, it’s a thin slice of sirloin covered in a vegetable-cream sauce and served with bread dumplings usually with some cranberry sauce on the side. Kozlovna Apropos has svíčková on its main menu. Vepřo-knedlo-zelo is the nickname of a dish consisting of three basic things: pork (vepřová), dumplings (knedlíky), sauerkraut (zelí).

It’s a fairly unappetizing looking dish, but surprisingly flavourful with lots of gravy to soak the bread dumplings in. It’s kind of an old-fashioned dish, so may not appear on every Czech menu, but Století serves it.

Guláš is a bit easier to find, but varies wildly in style. At Bredovský dvůr, they make theirs with chunks of beef, spicy sausage and potato pancakes.

If you’d rather just have something strange to enjoy with your beer, there are two enjoyable options to recommend. Utopenci translates to drowning man and is a short fat sausage that has been drowning in oil, vinegar and spices for an unknown period of time. It’s served with chopped onions and bread. For vegetarians, you have the joy of trying nakládaný hermelín. This is a camembert-like soft cheese pickled in, you guessed it, oil, garlic, peppers and spices. It too is served with onions and bread. You can try both of these with a draft Pilsner beer at Hybernia.

And speaking of vegetarians, don’t feel too left out.

Most restaurants will have a ‘bez masa’ section in which they list dishes without meat. Be careful though as there are often dishes that have meat in them included here. The thinking behind this goes as meat is not the main item in the dish, it’s okay to have it in the ‘without meat’ section. Always ask. If you are in a Czech restaurant, a pasta and/or risotto will often be here as will smažený sýr. Literally fried cheese, this will be a big slab of fried Edam most often eaten with chips and tartar sauce. Lokál fries up a tasty one. If you really want to be crazy, try this late night burger-style (served on a bun with mayo) at a food stand on Wenceslas Square.

18 Prague In Your Pocket

ARGENTINEAN EL BARRIO DE ÁNGEL This Latin American steakhouse takes inspiration from the menus of Brazil and Argentine, rustling up both Parrilla and Churrasco specialty meat preparations. Adventurous delights include Carne Montevideano; raw Argentinean beef flavoured with orange peel and chilli, ceviche and their Venezuelan seafood soup. From the quality of their meat to its careful preparation, El Barrio is a notable stop in the Anděl neighbourhood.QC‑12, Lidická 284/42, tel. (+ 420) 725 535 555, www.elbarrio.cz. Open 11.30 - 24.00, Sat, Sun 17.00- 24.00. (150 - 1,200Kč). A­G­

BALKAN GITANES This surrealistic looking restaurant could be consider romantic, funny or bizarre, depending on your mood.

Mediterranean cuisine, with heavy Croatian influences is presented in a colourfully chaotic space. Starters are fairly standard (though tasty) and main course specialities include Balkan roasted veal and lamb as well as a long fish and seafood list. With Serbian and Montenegrin wines on the menu, Gitanes is a fun place to eat completely nonCzech.QC‑8, Tržiště 7, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 53 01 63, www.gitanes.cz. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (120 2,000Kč). A­G­B­K­W LUKA LU The décor appears a bit mad, and the atmosphere chaotic, but when it comes to the kitchen, all seems under control.

Balkan and Italian influenced dishes are on the menu, and the seafood choices inspired by Croatia are recommended.

The owners are from Sarajevo so much of the creativeness for the grilled meat dishes comes from Bosnia and Serbia.

Fun place.QC‑9, Újezd 33, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 21 23 88, www.lukalu.cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (55 1,800Kč). J­A­G­B­K­W

CZECH BREDOVSKÝ DVŮR Well-prepared Czech staples and lots of flowing Pilsner are the hallmarks of this long-time popular pub close to the main train station. The cosy brick-lined bar atmosphere has been touched up with some funky lights and cool bar. If you are dining, be sure to go to prague.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants the back space, there is a winter garden too. Prices are decent for the location and the staff is helpful.QG‑9, Politických vězňů 13, MHlavní nádraží, tel. (+ 420) 224 21 54 27, www.restauracebredovskydvur.cz.

Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 2,000Kč).

P­A­B­K LOKÁL The place to go for typical Czech pub dishes in a typical Czech pub atmosphere. But wait – there’s more! Lokál is run by the uber-professional Ambiente restaurant group which means the food here is quality, the service super and the tank Pilsner tops. They’ve gone for a faux beer hall décor with what basically looks like one big long table. Call it ‘old Czech pub made fresh.’You may want to make reservations.

QG‑7, Dlouhá 33, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 222 31 62 65, www.ambi.cz. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (99 - 269Kč). P­JA ­ ­G­ K­S­W NOTA BENE One of the first Prague locavore restaurants, this wildly popular Vinohrady spot offers up speciality meat dishes and a rotating list of Czech beers from not so common breweries. Excellent place to get a glimpse of the Czech food scene. The menu changes daily, but beware, it’s pretty small. They do take reservations and you can sometimes get lucky and find a spot in the downstairs Beerpoint (Open 17:00 - 22:00 Mon-Fri) which offers eight taps (two with non-Czech beer) and a different, smaller snack-like menu than the upstairs restaurant.

QG‑11, Mikovcova 4, MI. P. Pavlova, tel. (+ 420) 721 299 131, www.notabene-restaurant.cz. Open 11:0023:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (119 - 300Kč).

A­G­K­ PLZEŇSKÁ Perfectly located Czech restaurant, Plzeňská isn’t the most affordable place to dine, but it does have some points going for it, besides the location. Here you can take a deep dive into traditional Czech cuisine – basically anything you order will be an ode to the country’s cooking traditions. An accordion player accompanies your meal in the evenings.

It’s also an excellent chance to get a glimpse of the beautiful Municipal House building – the restaurant itself is epic Art Nouveau.QG‑8, Náměstí republiky 5, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 222 00 27 70, plzenskarestaurace. cz. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (210 - 600Kč). J­A­E­G­K­ ­W STOLETÍ The food is great value, the atmosphere lively and the service fantastic. Even better, Století is one of the only restaurants that is seriously attempting to progress Czech cuisine while keeping it Czech at the same time. Plus, they are non-smoking and offer take-away.QE‑9, Karolíny Světlé 21, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 22 00 08, www.stoleti.cz. Open 11:30 - 22:30. (190 - 400Kč).

P­T­A­U­I­G­B­K­S­W facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

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Restaurants TOWER PARK PRAGUE

U EMY DESTINNOVÉ Still one of the biggest tourist traps in town, and still recommended, simply for their beer. Brewed on the spot since 1499, it is a dark well-done ale. The interiors appear to date back to that period as well and provide nice photo ops as do the wait-staff who have a great way of counting the number of beers you’ve had by chalking them up on your beermat as you go along. Czech food is on the menu, and does pair nicely with their brews while the live music by the in-house band helps create a great atmosphere.QF‑11, Kateřínská 7, MKarlovo nám., tel. (+ 420) 224 91 84 25, www.uemydestinnove.cz. Open 11:30 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (180 - 420Kč). J­A­E­G­K­W

PRAGUE TV TOWER (TOWER PARK PRAGUE) Once voted one of the ugliest buildings in the world, the building formerly known as the Žižkov TV Tower (now the Tower Park Prague) is actually an entertaining complex for those who like a view. There’s a café, restaurant and viewing platform offering 360 degree views of Prague as well as a garden restaurant with lots of green space underneath. At 216 metres, it is not only the tallest building in Prague, but also the tallest tower and the highest viewing platform in the Czech Republic. Of course the most interesting element are the ten babies climbing up the giant tower. Really.

QK‑4, Praha 3, Mahlerovy sady, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. + 420 210 320 081/+ 420 210 320 140, info@ towerpark.cz, www.towerpark.cz/en. Open 08:00 24:00. P­i­T­A­6­U­L­V­G­B­K­w­W

U MALTÉZSKÝCH RYTÍŘŮ Nestled in the winding streets under Prague Castle, you’ll encounter another maze of twisting rooms upon entering this historic restaurant. The building dates back to the 14th century and this is a surprisingly cosy and romantic restaurant. Czech meals are offered, but fish, salads and pasta, along with a variety of wines are also available.

QC‑8, Prokopská 10, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 774 74 29 99, www.umaltezskychrytiru.com. Open 13:00 23:00. (300 - 600Kč). A­I­E­G­B­K­W

MIMINOO GARDEN RESTAURANT A quiet place in the heart of Prague with a relaxing atmosphere and an mix of Czech and Italian cooking, MIMINOO is located directly under the Žižkov Television Tower.QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.

OBLACA RESTAURANT The view from 66 metres above ground is the biggest reason to book a table at Oblaca, located in Prague 3’s TV tower. Local and seasonal dishes are served, with an emphasis on modern regional cooking and some international favourites.QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. P­K­W ONE ROOM HOTEL If you really want to spoil that special someone in your life, you could rent an entire hotel for the night, just for them. Or reserve the only hotel room in Prague’s TV tower. The well-appointed suite is located 70 metres above ground and offers a massive bathroom, dressing room and top techs. Probably the most memorable feature would be taking your evening bath in the glassenclosed bathroom. Or telling your friends you were the only guests in the hotel.Q1 room (1 suite €1000).

P­i­A­K­W hhhhh TOWER PARK MINIGOLF An 18-hole mini-golf course in the shadow of one of the city’s most recognisable buildings - the former Prague TV Tower.

20 Prague In Your Pocket

U PINKASŮ The presence of locals is encouraging in this beer hall whose not unimpressive claim to fame is that of being the first pivnice in Prague to have Pilsner Urquell on draught.

A commemorative plaque and a tap mark the spot where this country’s most renowned beer began to flow in 1843.

In today’s establishment you’ll find a courtyard terrace and two floors of beer swilling and sausage eating. More elegant no-smoking rooms are available for dining; the menu, although traditional, is uninspired.QF‑9, Jungmannovo nám. 16, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 221 11 11 52, www. upinkasu.cz. Open 10:00 - 03:00. (150 - 350Kč). A­E­ G­B­K­W U PROVAZNICE What used to be an affordable city centre secret is now a busy, but still reasonable, beer and lunch spot. Located right near the Můstek metro station, the restaurant is filled to bursting with local business people at lunch and sees a steady beer clientele throughout the day. Great place to test out some Czech dishes – try a couple of the cold and warm appetizers for a mini meat tasting.QF‑9, Provaznická 3, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 224 23 25 28, www.uprovaznice. cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (75 - 400 Kč). P­A­G­B­K­

FRENCH CAFÉ DE PARIS Nestled on the winding streets of the Malá strana quarter, Café de Paris has a menu that changes with the season, recommendable desserts and two gardens. Their Entrecote Café de Paris, prepared according to a secret recipe and a vegetarian dish are available year-round. The inside is minimalist and the experience is one of restful satisfaction. prague.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants QC‑8, Maltézské nám. 4, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 603 16 07 18, www.cafedeparis.cz. Open 11:30 - 24:00.

(165 - 269Kč). T­J­G­B­K CHEZ MARCEL Lovely French bistro off Náměstí Republiky, the staff at friendly Chez Marcel are happy to offer up suggestions on wine or the freshest dish of the day. Popularities include the Snails à la Provençale as well as the duck and cod. They have a small daily menu and reservations are recommended for evenings, Chez Marcel is popular for small group parties.

Also at (J-6) Americká 20.QF‑7, Haštalská 12, MNám.

Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 222 31 56 76, www.chezmarcel. cz. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (90 - 300Kč). J­A­E­B­K­W FRANCOUZSKÁ RESTAURACE ART NOUVEAU Superb French (and some Czech) gourmet dishes from this restaurant’s award winning chefs. Mussels, rabbit, foie gras and duck all make delightful appearances in one of the world’s masterpieces of art nouveau architecture (the Municipal House building itself ) and interior.QG‑8, Náměstí Republiky 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 222 00 27 70, www.francouzskarestaurace.cz. Open 12:00 – 23:00. (600 - 2,000Kč). P­A­U­E­B

INDIAN BEAS Excellent place for a casual, filling, affordable Indian lunch.

There are a number of Beas scattered about town; this one can be found tucked behind the large Quadrio shopping centre and Tesco building. They prepare fresh food inspired from Northern Indian daily – two vegetable dishes, two dahl dishes, rice and something sweet. Self-serve and you pay by weight; free water on every table.QF‑8, Týnská 19, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 608 03 57 27, www.beasdhaba.cz. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (16Kč/100gr.). P­J­A­S­W

BREAKFA ST & TAIJI GRILL TITO SPECK PROSECCARIE CAFE DEL A SICILE SPRITZERIE PICNIC PÉTANQUE MINIGOLF

WWW.MIMINOO.CZ Mahlerovy sady 1 • 130 00 Prague 3 • info@miminoo.cz +420 210 320 140 • facebook.com/miminoorestaurant #miminoorestaurant

SMOKERS’ PARADISE

INTERNATIONAL AMBIENTE PASTA FRESCA For a very nice meal between Old Town Square and Náměstí republiky this Italian restaurant is one of your best bets. Fresh ingredients (including homemade pasta) and a long Italian wine list make Pasta Fresca a wonderful place to unwind.

Service is good and the décor is basic Italian bistro – nothing fancy, just simple loveliness to match the food.QF‑8, Celetná 11, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 224 23 02 44, www. ambi.cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (120 - 350Kč). P­A­G­W HOME KITCHEN Fresh and flavourful, Home Kitchen offers great breakfast, coffee and daily fresh cakes near Wenceslas Square. Coffee is quality here and the breakfast offerings rotate based on seasonal ingredients. Eggs, omelettes and crepes are standard in the cosy farmhouse décor. Closed weekends.QF‑10, Jungmannova 8, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 734 71 42 27, www.homekitchen.cz.

Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (75 - 180Kč). facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

Smokers love the Czech Republic, as unlike in just about every other EU country, there aren’t any strict smoking laws. Current legislation leaves it up to individual establishments whether to be allow smoking or not, but they do need to have a sticker on their front door indicating if they are smoking, non-smoking or both. Many restaurants will offer a non-smoking section, but don’t assume that means a separate room; sometimes smokers get one half, non-smokers get the other half of the same room. In public buildings like train stations, metro stations, shopping centres, etc., smoking is prohibited, as well as at tram and bus stops.

In our guide we have marked those places which are completely non-smoking with the appropriate symbol.

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Restaurants BECHEROVKA Described as either tasting like Christmas or something less complimentary, depending on whom you’re speaking to, Becherovka is Czech’s national spirit (beer rightfully acknowledged as the national drink). It is basically a herbal liqueur whose dominant flavours include cinnamon, clove and orange. Used as both an aperitif, digestive and to toast happy occasions, the spirit is a harmonic blend of more than 20 herbs and spices. Priding itself on being all-natural, with no artificial colours or chemical preservatives, it’s a smooth drink that should definitely be experienced while visiting. Enjoy it slowly – Becherovka is made to be sipped, not slammed.

Due to Karlovy Vary’s hopping medical spa trade, Becherovka was first marketed to visiting guests as a digestive aid. It was created in 1807 by local resident and spice trader Jan Becher, who apparently enjoyed tinkering with alcohol in his free time. With Karlovy Vary being known for its 12 mineral springs, Becherovka became to be known as the thirteenth.

The liqueur has popped up in many interesting places through history. Johann Wolfgang Goethe spent time in Karlovy Vary in 1812 and even though he didn’t smoke or drink, bought a bottle of Becherovka and noted it in his diary. During World War I it was shipped to soldiers on the front line in special cups with lids.

The company was nationalised along with all other privately owned companies after the communist takeover following World War II. It was privatised in 1997 and since 2001 has been run by French group Pernod Ricard.

If you purchase a bottle, take notice of the container’s unusual flat shape. This was designed by Becher’s brother in 1866. The bottle has been in green glass since 1907. Becherovka makes a great souvenir that can be enjoyed year round. For winter colds, try a steaming mug of hot water with a shot of Becherovka, teaspoon of honey and slice of lemon. In summer, a Beton, made with Becherovka, tonic and a slice of lemon is a refreshing alternative to a gin & tonic.

The drink was first introduced at the 1967 World Expo in Montreal. For a more cocktail-like drink, mix Becherovka, apple liqueur, ginger lemonade and pour over ice. Garnish with a sprig of mint and slice of lime for a B-celebration.

22 Prague In Your Pocket

HYBERNIA Well-liked Pilsner pub, Hybernia is popular with neighbourhood business people both for the restaurant’s solid lunch menu and as a place for an after work drink. The space is large and rambling and a few tables have their own beer taps. Grilled meat is the speciality here, but they also have pasta, traditional Czech recipes and a couple token meald tossed in for veggies. They also have an affordable breakfast menu, better for weekdays when they open at 8:00.QH‑8, Hybernská 7, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 224 22 60 04, www.hybernia.cz. Open 08:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 23:30. (150 - 350Kč). P­i­A­G KOFEIN Tapas Czech style in this cool new Prague 3 place. An eclectic but tasty menu – there’s about two dozen hot and cold tapas.

Flavours range from Chorizo Ibérico to duck to hamburgers, with lots of vegetarian options too. Friendly service; the place is small and popular so reservations are recommended.

QJ‑11, Nitranská 9, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+ 420) 273 13 21 45, www.ikofein.cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (125 - 255Kč). P­J­A­G­W KRYSTAL MOZAIKA BISTRO A variety of meaty and American dishes; the burger is a good choice and both the beef and the veal dishes have been enjoyed. Krystal does desserts fairly well, especially the carrot cake. Be sure to check the chalkboard for the daily specials – good value and usually innovative choices.

A casual place, service is friendly.QK‑6, Sokolovská 99, MKřižíkova, tel. (+ 420) 222 31 81 52, www.krystalbistro.cz. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (109 - 319Kč).

LA DEGUSTATION One of Prague’s finest. La Degustation is the place to dine for a serious tasting menu of the best flavours from Czech cooking. There are two tasting options which differ daily and include a specially chosen wine for each course. The Boheme Bourgeoise includes six courses with specialties from the Czech countryside, while the Degustation du Chef has 11 servings. With only 40 seats, recommendations are strongly recommended.QF‑7, Haštalská 18, MNám.

Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 222 31 12 34, www.ladegustation. cz. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (945 - 2,450Kč). P­Y­J­A­ G­K­W V ZÁTIŠÍ A restaurant and wine bar that remains one of best in Prague. Without being snooty, it manages to serve fabulous and inventive meals to a middle-aged crowd of foreigners and locals. Indeed, the best things about it (apart from the traditional kulajda soup, the lamb chops and their intriguing Indian dishes) are the relaxed, intimate atmosphere, and the waiters who enjoy their jobs and know their wines. Not to be missed.QE‑9, Liliová 1, Betlemské nám., MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 222 22 11 55, www.vzatisi.cz. Open 12:00 - 15:00 and 17:30 - 23:00.

(600 - 1,500Kč). P­A­U­G prague.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants ITALIAN

FAST FOOD

COTTOCRUDO The Four Season’s signature local restaurant CottoCrudo emphasises modern Italian cooking and includes a fun crudo (raw) bar in which to select choice prosciutto and mozzarella from their culinary station. Mains are creatively prepared and elegantly served. A cocktail or two in their stylish lounge is an elegant way to enjoy an evening drink with bonus views to Prague Castle as your backdrop.QE‑8, Veleslavínova 2a, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 221 42 68 80, www.cottocrudo.cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (220 900Kč). P­A­U­E­G LA FINESTRA IN CUCINA Simple Italian cooking, prepared where you can see it.

The menu regularly changes and emphasizes seasonal treats. This gorgeous space is rightly proud of its quality meats – order something made with one of their fresh fish items.QE‑8, Platnéřská 13, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 32 53 25, www.lafinestra.cz. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (245 - 495Kč). J­A­R­ V­E­G­K

JEWISH KING SOLOMON The Czech Republic’s oldest kosher restaurant is located in the heart of Prague’s Jewish Quarter. Specialising in regional Jewish cooking, they use locally sourced meats and have a nice selection of homemade breads. The daily menu is a great option, offering a choice of soup, main dish, dessert or salad and one drink. Friday dinner and Saturday lunch are by reservation only.QE‑7, Široká 8, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 81 87 52, www.kosher.cz. Open 12:00 – 23.00, Sun 12:00 – 22:30. Closed Sat, Friday dinner only by reservation, Saturday lunch reservations only. (250 1,000Kč). P­J­A­U­G­K­W

LATIN AMERICAN AMBIENTE BRASILEIRO Really, like seriously hungry? If you’ve got a hankering for finely prepared Brazilian food, Brasileiro makes topnotch Churrasco, a special way of cooking meat on a skewer. Knife-wielding staff wander through, shaving juicy slices directly onto your plate. There’s even a handy green card on your table announcing you are ready for more. If you are looking for something lighter, you can go for the all you can eat salad buffet with seafood items; both meat and non-meat buffets are cheaper before 18:00. Also at F-3, Na Přikopě 22 - Slovanský Dům.

QF‑8, U Radnice 8, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 23 44 74, www.ambi.cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (225 545Kč). P­A­G­W

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In Prague, Ronald McDonald takes a backseat to Colonel Sanders who appears to be, well, everywhere.

Quick slices of pizza and kebabs are also a popular treat around town and can be had 24hrs at the bottom of Wenceslas Square. If you’ve had your fill of knedlíky and only a Big Mac will do, here’s where to find one.

BURGER KING Also at Praha 1, 28. října 12 and Praha 1, Náměstí Republiky 1078/1.QG‑10, Václavské náměstí 52, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 725 412 027, www. myburgerking.cz/restaurace/. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Open 24hrs Fri, Sat. KFC Also at Národní 961/25; Nám. Republiky 1078/1 and Kaprova 14.QG‑10, Václavské nám. 802/56, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 235 01 34 02, www.kfc.cz.

Open 24hrs, Sun 07:00 - 03:00.

MCDONALDS Also at Praha 1, Václavské náměstí 9; Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10; Praha 1, Nákupní centrum Palladium, Náměstí Republiky 1078/1; Praha 1, Mostecká 21; Praha 1, Vodičkova 15.QG‑10, Václavské náměstí 812/59, MMuzeum, tel. (+ 420) 724 104 305, www. mcdonalds.cz. Open 24hrs.

PANERIA Paneria is a chain of bakeries with a tasty range of sweet and savoury snacks; including pastries, sandwiches, soups and bread that fuels you up. Good place to pop in for breakfast and a coffee. Also at Jindřišská 21, Rytířská 12, Národní 18 and many other locations.

QE‑8, Kaprova 3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 702 127 704, www.paneria.cz. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sun 07:30 - 19:00. (45 - 120Kč). i­A­G­S SUBWAY Also at ​Praha 1, Jindřišská 30, 110 00; Praha 1, Spálená 59 and Praha 1, Karmelitská 28.QG‑8, Pasáž Broadway, Na Příkopě 31, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 739 323 386, www.subw.cz. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

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Restaurants FOOD WITH A VIEW

MEXICAN & TEX-MEX CANTINA One of the oldest Mexican restaurants in town, Cantina is still serving up traditional favourites like fajitas, quesadillas and more. Unique takes include a grilled salmon steak served with a cheese quesadilla and Spanish rice as well as enchiladas de res which is blue corn tortillas filled with slow roasted beef and the house tomato sauce. Tequila and mezcal lists too.QC‑9, Újezd 38, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 31 71 73, www.restauracecantina.cz. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (120 - 450 Kč). L­E­G­B­K

PIZZA Coda rooftop terrace

These restaurants are the ones to head for if you’re yearning for spectacular views over the city while you hold the hand of your lover. Or if you need something to look at if the conversation wanes...

CODA The Coda Restaurant is located in the musically themed Aria Hotel. Beautifully decorated with original works of art, the cuisine is seasonally matched and features a tasting menu, Czech tasting menu and a la carte dinners. Summer is the best time to visit thanks to their rooftop terrace with a 360° view of Prague, especially Prague Castle and the winding streets of Malá Strana.QC‑8, Tržiště 9 (Aria Hotel), MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 225 33 47 61, www. codarestaurant.cz/en. Open 07:00 - 22:30, Terrace open from 11:30 am.

GINGER & FRED Enjoy international cuisine with a touch of French on the 7th floor of the Dancing House. Here you’ll enjoy an elegant meal surrounded by contemporary art and lots of Prague views. The menu changes seasonally and an emphasis is put on local food and suppliers.

QE‑11, Jiráskovo náměstí 6 (Dancing House), tel. (+ 420) 221 98 41 60, www.ginger-fred-restaurant. cz/en.

GROSSETO Popular pizza joint in the Vinohrady neighbourhood, Grosseto typically has a wait on most evenings. The interior is large with a skinny second floor and super summer courtyard garden (entrance around the corner). Menu highlights are still the pizzas but the chicken and pork dishes are surprisingly inventive and nice as well. Also at Jugoslávských partyzánů 8 and Vyskočilova 2.QH‑11, Francouzská 2, MNám. Míru, tel. (+ 420) 224 25 27 78, www.grosseto.cz. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (150 - 400Kč). J­A­B­S 24 Prague In Your Pocket

COLOSEUM Casual with an Italian vibe, this restaurant behind the main shopping drag of Na příkopě serves up solid pizzas, pastas and more. The chefs are in the midst of it all, pushing pies into the brick oven while a steady trickle of diners come in for the spaghetti and shrimp, veal with asparagus, octopus risotto or a pizza that has steak fries on top. Their daily menu offers a soup of the day plus is good until 15:00.

QF‑9, Ovocný Trh 8, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 224 23 83 55, www.pizzacoloseum.cz. Open 10:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 11.30 - 23.30. (150 - 400Kč). P­J­A­G­K GIALLO ROSA This restaurant/walk-up place offers super good pizza not only late, but also in a prime Old Town location. Takeaway is available till 02:00 on Friday and midnight on Saturdays.

The menu includes fresh pastas and US beef flank steaks, but the pizzas remain the stars, with the margherita con bufala and diavola which is topped with a spicy salami from Naples both becoming well-loved Prague memories.

QF‑8, Jakubská 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 604 89 89 89, www.giallorossa.cz. Open Mon, Tue, Sun 11:30 - 23:00, Wed, Thu, Sat 11:30 - 24:00, Fri 11:30 - 01:00.

(From 25Kč/slice). J­A­G­S PIZZA NUOVA The Ambiente group turn their talented hands to Naples at this excellent pizza and pasta restaurant. Strategic location adjacent to the massive Palladium shopping centre, you’ll appreciate Ambiente’s trademark flair and an extensive Italian and Czech wine list. There are a couple tasting menus if you are feeling indecisive. Parents take note there’s a kids corner here open daily with a babysitter on weekends.QG‑7, Revoluční 1, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 221 80 33 08, www.ambi.cz. Open 11:30 - 23:30.

(150 - 500Kč). P­T­A­6­V­G­K­W

SEAFOOD ZDENĚK’S OYSTER BAR Classy place with some of the freshest fish in town, Zdenek’s signature oysters are the stars of the place, but the prawns come a close second. Ask for recommendations on both fish and wine, the staff is knowledgeable and really prague.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants friendly. The interior is warm and romantic, you might feel you took a wrong turn to Paris, but everything is down-toearth and fun. Reservations recommended.QF‑8, Malá Štupartská 5, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 725 94 62 50, www.oysterbar.cz. Open 12:00 - 01:00. (285 - 2,000Kč).

P­A­G­B­K­W

BREWERY RESTAURANTS

THAI NOI Still one of the best Thai restaurants in town, Noi is a lovely place to experience Yam Woon Sen, Kang Phed Moo or Phad Thai Kai. Every dishes is creatively prepared and the atmosphere is roomy and relaxing. There is a side garden for al fresco dining, or order your food to go.QC‑9, Újezd 19, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 31 14 11, www. noirestaurant.cz. Open 11:00 - 01:00. (150 - 290Kč).

P­A­G­B­S­W

VEGETARIAN CLEAR HEAD (LEHKÁ HLAVA) Lehká hlava means clear head in Czech and if you’ve gone a bit wild on the Czech food and beer you will appreciate this fresh vegetarian option. With a slightly spacy interior (small, make reservations for dinner) the meals coming out of the kitchen are also out of this world. Many meals are vegan, or can be made vegan and some are glutenfree. From eggplant tortillas with brie to seitan gyros, the menu is international enough for all tastes. The street is small and hard to find – if you aren’t sure if you are on the right street, you probably are.QE‑9, Boršov 2, MNárodní třída, tel. (+ 420) 222 22 06 65, www. lehkahlava.cz. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 22:00. (80 - 450Kč). A­­G­K COUNTRY LIFE Great place for an inexpensive vegetarian lunch; Country Life is also a health food store. A small selection of fresh vegetarian dishes are prepared daily and served up cafeteria style, as well as a delicious soup. Pay by weight and there is free water. Very popular with local workers during lunch, feel free to invite yourself to join someone else’s table. The tiny restaurant does expand into the courtyard in the summer. Also at H-4, Jungmannova 1.QF‑8, Melantrichova 15, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 224 21 33 66, www.countrylife.cz. Open 10:30 - 19:30, Fri 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. (75 - 150Kč).

P­T­J­A­U­G­K LOVING HUT Love, peace and vegan at the eight Loving Huts scattered across Prague. The buffet style restaurant prepares fresh, mainly Asian inspired cuisine. Better for a lunch stop, which is also when most locations are very busy; in fact you may be shocked at how many Czechs enjoy something not based around fried meat.QH‑11, Londýnská 35, MIP Pavlova, tel. (+ 420) 222 51 50 06, www.lovinghut.cz.

Open 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. V­­G facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

Potrefená Husa

IN LOCO For fresh Budvar beer and an international menu with a nice selection of Czech inspired specials, head to In Loco in the Karlín neighbourhood. The marinated pork neck and grilled chicken are two creative recommendations.

Original, classic and dark Budvar is on tap, plus they have a selection of the brewer’s other concoctions in bottles. Daily lunch specials too.QI‑7, Sokolovská 32, tel. (+ 420) 608 178 539, www.inloco.cz/florenc.

Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. KOZLOVNA APROPOS Kozel beer has been surging in popularity the past few years, and nowhere is better to taste it than one of the brewery’s own restaurants. Here you can enjoy fresh Kozel straight from the tank accompanied by Czech cuisine, perhaps something from their lava grill? Their guláš is prepared with dark beer, go total meat with the Staropražský talíř consisting of roast pork, smoked meat and grilled sausage or shakeup your burger routine with one made from duck.QE‑8, Křižovnická 4, tel. (+420) 222 31 45 73, www.kozlovna-apropos.cz.

Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00.

POTREFENÁ HUSA NÁRODNÍ The Staropramen-branded restaurants appear in most of Prague’s quarters; this centrally located one between Wenceslas Square the National Theatre is the place to try a variety of the Prague brewery’s beer with decent Czech and international dishes. A bustling open space, highlights include their leg of lamb and pork schnitzel.

QF‑10, Národní třída 364/39, tel. (+ 420) 734 75 69 00, www.potrefenahusa.cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (120 - 350Kč). T­A­6­U­G­B­K­W V KOLKOVNĚ The first Pilsner Urquell restaurant is still one of the best places to go to experience huge portions of Czech food and tank Pilsner in a beer hall atmosphere. Go for something big and heavy here like the roast duck or goulash. Upstairs the seating is bright with lots of brass beer pipes while the downstairs cellar is dark and bricklined.QF‑7, V Kolkovně 8, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 81 97 01, www.vkolkovne.cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (160 - 400 Kč). P­J­A­G­B­W Summer 2016

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Cafés

Enjoy your coffee on Cacao’s summer terrace

As part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, the city’s cafes took their cue from Vienna, but under communism, the idea of a café as a meeting place dwindled dramatically. These days, coffee has a look and taste which is often quite different from the past but there’s a few old timers like Louvre and Savoy still offering a taste of old Prague.

CACAO A Slovenian import, Cacao offers a really nice range of just about everything. Coffee of course is great, but their ice cream and cakes are something special too. Nice terrace near Náměstí republiky and overlooking the farmers market; the interior is warm and comfy for winter.QG‑8, V Celnici 1031/4, MNáměstí republiky, tel. (+420) 777 51 16 77, www.cacaoprague.cz. Open 08:30 - 22:30, Fri 08:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 23:00. (110 - 149Kč).

P­T­G­B­S­W CAFÉ IMPERIAL Lovely Art Nouveau grandeur for breakfast or a midday coffee break. Both the café and hotel have been restored to their original beauty and the tile work is quite stunning (peak in the adjacent hotel lobby for more).

Very popular spot for lunch; Chef Zdeněk Pohlreich is a well-known character in the Czech culinary world.

Service isn’t always there, but overall wonderful for an elegant café experience.QH‑7, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 15, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 246 01 14 40, www. cafeimperial.cz. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (130 - 400Kč).

P­i­J­A­G­W 26 Prague In Your Pocket

CAFÉ LOUVRE Even with all the trendy hipster cafes available just about everywhere in Prague now, there’s something enduring about the Louvre. The high-ceilinged bright dining room is often filled with local business folk, especially for lunch.

There is a small outdoor seating area along with an aquarium of amusing turtles. Located up a flight of stairs, the cakes are typically worth the climb.QF‑9, Praha 1, Národní 22, MNárodní třída, tel. (+ 420) 224 93 09 49/+420 724 05 40 55, www.cafelouvre.cz. Open 08:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:30. (100 - 500Kč). P­H­A­ V­G­K­W CAFÉ SAVOY Typically packed morning, noon and night, the Savoy’s pastries, lunch and wine selection keep a steady flow of politicians and other high-flyers streaming through its doors. Be sure to look up at the gorgeous neo-Renaissance ceiling and try any of the freshly made cakes - the display is an excellent photo op. Menu is a mix of Czech traditional and classic French; weekend breakfast time is extremely popular.QD‑9, Praha 5, Vítězná 5, MAnděl, tel. (+ 420) 257 31 15 62, www.ambi.cz. Open 08:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. (140 - 700Kč). P­A­G­B­K­W EMA ESPRESSO BAR Wow, fabulous. This is a place that takes their coffee seriously and we can seriously appreciate that. Light food, but a large cup of deliciousness is the reason you come here. The biggest drawback is that it pretty much is a bar – there’s a big long table down the middle and a prague.inyourpocket.com

Cafés couple seats stuck in the window and by the stairs, but it’s more of a takeaway place. EMA’s owners also do Café Lounge in Malá StranaQH‑7, Na Florenci 3, MNáměstí republiky, tel. (+ 420) 730 156 933, www.prague. coffee. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J­G­W FRIENDS COFFEE HOUSE Large friendly space with good coffee, sandwiches and cakes. The best seat is in the middle atrium area – practically garden seating year round. They have their own coffee roaster and food that is not fancy but fresh.

Plus their website address translates into ‘I love coffee’ and who can’t love that? Order at the counter and they will bring it to you. Convenient to the Wenceslas Square/ New Town area.QF‑9, Praha 1, Palackého 7, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 272 04 96 65, www.ilovecoffee.cz. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (49 - 250Kč).

O­A­G­B­S­W GRAND CAFÉ ORIENT (DŮM U ČERNÉ MATKY BOŽÍ) Located in one of the best Cubist buildings in Prague, architecture and design lovers will appreciate the Orient’s Czech Cubist touches. From the light fixtures to the plates, there’s a touch of early 1920’s Czechoslovakia here – the Orient was actually reconstructed using period photos from the original cafe. When it’s warm, watch the tourists stream by from their narrow balcony. The Orient does breakfast and has a long crepe selection. Decent coffee.

QG‑8, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 224 22 42 40, www.grandcafeorient.cz. Open 09:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (100 - 200Kč). P­i­J­ A­V­G­W IF CAFÉ Bright space with a window to the bakers, IF Café is owned by a well-known local pastry chef, Iveta Fabešová. Besides watching the decorators at work (there are well-positioned stools for optimal drooling), the desserts are the reason to come. Selection is large and changes regularly. Also IF Café II at Tylovo nám. 2, Praha 2, tel. (+420) 608 77 33 99, open Mon - Sun 08:00 - 20:00.QH‑11, Praha 2, Belgická 30, tel. (+ 420) 608 77 33 99, www.ivetafabesova.cz/info/9if-cafe. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. (70 - 200Kč). i­A­V­W KAFÍČKO CAFÉ The sign in their window says ‘world’s best coffee’ and that could be debated, but it is tasty and the tiny place oozes cosiness. Located right around the corner from the massive Pallidum shopping centre, this place is surprisingly filled with locals, typically catching up with friends. And unfortunately it is often filled; the seating capacity must be around 20 max. Beer, wine and cocktails are available as well as the coffee beans from around the world. Light on food.QG‑7, Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 15, tel. (+ 420) 724 15 17 95. Open 10:00 - 22:00. i­T­J­ A­6­G­W facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

ICE CREAM Czechs love ice cream. Like insanely. The country isn’t one you would normally associated with the sweet treat, e.g. gelato in Italy. But as soon as the temperature hits about 10 degrees and/or it’s a bright and sunny day, Czechs of all ages are walking around happily licking cones.

Some cafes and bakeries around town will have a ‘točená zmrzlina’ machine set up which dispenses usually two flavours (like vanilla and strawberry) and one mixed (vanilla-strawberry swirl) of soft serve ice cream. These usually come in your choice of malá (small) or velká (large). In ice cream shops with big bins, price will be by scoop in a basis cone. Many places have waffle cones for an extra price.

The točená zmrzlina places are only in operation from about late spring to early autumn, but locals will not be deterred from having their ice cream. Every shop no matter how small will have a freezer full of single portion ice cream on sticks, with Pegasus and Mrož being two of the favoured local brands.

ANGELATO Probably the most popular ice cream spot in Prague, Angelato has a large space, but still a queue out the door on warm summer days. Angelato makes both fruit sorbets and milk-based gelatos in a creative and large number of flavours. They also do monthly special and gelato flavours like parmesan, avocado and rice have been spotted on the menu. Super friendly staff, if you just can’t decide, they’ll let you try little samples to help you out. There is a smaller location near Můstek with outdoor seating in the summer. Also at Praha 1, Rytiřská 27.QC‑9, Praha 1, Újezd 24, tel. (+ 420) 224 23 51 23, www.angelato.eu. Open 11:00 - 22:00. T OVOCNÝ SVĚTOZOR A Prague institution, this ice cream shop/café is the traditional favourite for Czechs of all ages. Located inside the Světozor passageway off of Wenceslas Square, you’ll spot it instantly thanks to the near-constant queue.

There’s a walk-up spot for simple scoops, or a café which also offers a pretty delectable range of cakes. Select your favourite flavour and enjoy it in the adjacent Františkánská zahrada rose garden.QPraha 1, Vodičkova 39. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Sat 09:00 - 21:00. Sun 09:30 - 21:00.

PARLOR CAFES The hip Karlín neighbourhood is certainly not going to resist the street draw of ice cream. And the fun factor is here as well as they offer ice cream sandwiches with eight cookie options and 12 different ice cream flavours to mix and match. Coffee and smoothies plus wine and cocktails at night.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

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Nightlife

Enjoy the views with a drink in Glass Bar at the Dancing House

Prague’s bar and club scene is as appropriately raucous as its infamy suggests. Prices and clientele veer widely from the tourist-filled Old Town haunts to the sometimes slightly seedy neighbourhood bars. You will find that beer is drunk morning, noon and night, and that Czech beers are among the best and cheapest in the world. Brands to look out for include Pilsner Urquell, Gambrinus, Staropramen and Budweiser (Budvar). The average wage for bar staff is low, so please, after having your drinks and your fun, show some appreciation with a decent tip.

BARS & PUBS BACK DOORS This space is part restaurant, part bar and part club in the cellar of an old Smíchov house. Massive wooden furniture and forged iron work complement the brick walls and parquet floor of its historical setting. Good for their lunch specials and fabulous for the night time change to music bar with high quality audio system, where you can hear various styles of music from famous Czech DJs.QD‑12, Na Bělidle 30/310, MAnděl, tel. (+ 420) 257 31 58 24, www. backdoors.cz. Open Mon - Wed 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 01:00; Thu 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 02:00; Fri 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 03:00; Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. A­E BAR AND BOOKS An elegant evening of cocktails just off Old Town Square, Bar and Books is sleek with copper ceilings and booklined walls. Whisky and cigars are also on the menu and cocktail prices are not that high. Live music on Wednesday nights, you can also enjoy all the James Bond films screened without sound. This was the first European branch of the New York Bar and Books – there’s 28 Prague In Your Pocket

one in Warsaw now too.QF‑8, Praha 1, Týnská 19, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 224 81 51 22, www. barandbooks.cz. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. P­A BLUE LIGHT BAR A Malá Strana institution, you don’t typically get a seat in this tiny bar, but the older crowd is friendly and chill. Only small beers, priced a bit high, but a long list of other spirits and well-priced cocktails. Website is amusingly crass.QC‑8, Praha 1, Josefská 42/1, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 53 31 26, www.bluelightbar.cz. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 03:00.

BOMBAY COCKTAIL BAR Casual, centrally located cocktail and dance bar, the scene here is young and fun. It’s not a huge space, but you can dance pretty much wherever you want and in the summer they expand with a garden area. Quality mixed drinks, their specialities include a Kir Royal, Cosmopolitan and Tequila Sunrise.QF‑7, Praha 1, Dlouhá 13, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 32 40 40, www.bombay-bar.cz/en. Open 19:00 04:00, Thu 19:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 06:00. P­A­B CAFFREY’S Located smack on Old Town Square, you can’t miss this friendly Irish bar. Popular for its Irish breakfast (both full and small) Caffreys is also one of the best places in town to catch nearly any sporting event (including GAA) you could imagine.

Food prices are on the high side, but quality is good, especially if you are longing for a Shepard’s pie or fish and chips with a helping of mushy peas.QF‑8, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám.

10, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 82 80 31, www. caffreys.cz. Open 09:00 - 02:00. P­A­B­K prague.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife CLOUD 9 Sleek and sexy, this is where the good-looking people go to lounge with a designer cocktail. That may sound unappealing, but Cloud 9 (located on the top floor of the Hilton Prague hotel) offers tasty, inventive cocktails, a nice small bites menu and really amazing Prague views. The terrace in the summer is especially inviting. DJs on Fridays and Saturdays.QI‑6, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc, tel. (+ 420) 224 84 29 99, www.cloud9.cz. Open 18:00 02:00. Closed Sun. J­A­E GLASS BAR With an outside viewing platform and nothing but windows, the Glass Bar on top of the Dancing House offers spectacular photo opportunities. The prices for coffee, beer, wine and cocktails are a bit sky high too, but you are paying for the ambience.QE‑11, Praha 2, Jiráskovo náměstí 6, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+ 420) 737 282 879, www. galerietancicidum.cz/#!glass-bar/czk7. Open 09:00 24:00.

MICROBREWERIES JIHOMĚSTSKÝ PIVOVAR If you are looking to experience some good beer, in a completely different part of town, jump on the metro all the way to Háje and discover the South City Brewery. Three beers are brewed in-house and served on tap, all unpasteurized and unfiltered. The dearth of decent pubs and restaurants in the area means the place is usually packed. Even though it bills itself as a microbrewery/restaurant fusion, head out for the beer and the atmosphere, not the food.QPodjavorinske 1602, MHáje, tel. (+ 420) 222 35 22 42, www. jihomestskypivovar.cz. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:30.

J.J.MURPHY’S Don’t worry, they also have Guinness. If you pine for the days when you could enjoy a pint, a good meal and your favourite sporting event without screaming Englishmen in dresses working on their 20th beer, then belly up to this Irish bar. Watch live sport from one of the sofas in the attic lounge or have a proper breakfast with pudding or a real American burger on the ground floor.QC‑8, Tržiště 4, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 53 55 75, www. bestirishbarprague.com. Open 10:00 - 01:00. A­K

NOVOMĚSTSKÝ PIVOVAR Massive, centrally-located brewery restaurant, the pub’s signature brews are served up along with traditional Czech cooking. Light and dark varieties of their Novoměstský ležák are available to accompany big platters of meat. Try one of their mixed platters and to be really experimental go for one of their beer tastings. One is with flavoured beer, the other includes ‘beer sparkling wine.’ You can even book of tour of the brewery and its cellars.QF‑10, Vodičkova 20, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 222 23 24 48/(+420) 602 45 92 16, www.npivovar.cz. Open 10:00 - 23:30, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (160 - 500Kč).

P­T­A­U­E­G­B

KOZIČKA Popular spot to start an Old Town night on the town, Kozička has lots of funny spaces with lots of little tables. Packed with friends meeting up, squeeze in and place your beer, wine or cocktail order.

Also a restaurant, there’s a typical menu of Czech/ international cuisine. Kitchen often stays open a bit later on weekends, but after 22:00, ask if they are still cooking before sitting down.QF‑7, Praha 1, Kozí 1, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 81 83 08/(+420) 776 30 48 76, www.kozicka.cz. Open 16:00 - 04:00, Fri 17:00 - 05:30, Sat 18:00 - 05:30, Sun 19:00 03:00. P­A ­I

PIVOVARSKÝ DŮM The aptly named Brewery House bends the Czech brewing tradition to new and exotic heights (read: banana beer). If you’d like to sample all of the brews on offer without getting plastered, ask for the small samples for only 20Kč each. This popular bar also serves excellent Czech dishes including venison and its speciality For the Meat-Lovers which presents every type of animal flesh conceivable. Service can be surly and food on the stale side.QF‑11, Lipová 15, MKarlovo nám., tel. (+ 420) 296 21 66 66, www. pivovarskydum.com. Open 11:00 - 23:30. Closed Sat, Sun. (95 - 230Kč). P­A­G

PRAGUE BEER MUSEUM Prague is famed for her cultural offerings, and here’s one museum even non-art fans can appreciate. With most pubs and restaurants offering only a couple beers from the same producers, aficionados wanting to treat their taste buds can choose from 30 beers on tap at this Old Town ‘museum.’ Each beer is well-described and if you just can’t choose, order a tasting flight. There’s a souvenir shop to document your cultural immersion. Also at Americká 43, Praha 2, tel. (+420) 775 99 46 98.QG‑7, Praha 1, Dlouhá 46, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 732 33 09 12, www.praguebeermuseum.com/en. Open 12:00 - 03:00. J­B

U FLEKŮ Still one of the biggest tourist traps in town, and still recommended, simply for their beer. Brewed on the spot since 1499, it is a dark well-done ale. The interiors appear to date back to that period as well and provide nice photo ops. Czech food is on the menu, and does pair nicely with their brews. They also host the occasional cabaret.QE‑10, Křemencova 11, MNárodní třída, tel. (+ 420) 224 93 40 19/(+420) 602 66 02 90, www.ufleku.cz. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Museum open Mon - Sat 10:00 - 16:00. (85 - 450Kč).

J­A­6­U­E­G­B­K­

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

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Nightlife PIVO, PROSÍM EXPERIENCING THE CZECH NATIONAL DRINK

The Czech Republic has the highest per capita consumption of beer in the world. Because Czechs have to drink it so much in order to keep this prestigious title (nearly 143 litres per person annually according to 2014 statistics), they need it to be damn good. And it is. Czech beer is some of the best brewed brew in the world.

When we say “Czech beer,” what do we mean? Beer brewed here is bottom fermented and is made from water, barley, malt and hops. Believe it or not, it’s the water that has one of the biggest effects on how the beer tastes. Czech beer is brewed using only soft to medium water.

While records show the first brewery in the country existed in 1118; Czech beer as we know it dates back to more like 1842. That’s when a brewery in Plzeň hired a German brewer who was experimenting with a new fermentation method. He produced the first light coloured beer, Pilsner, which was an immediate hit. It’s still sold today as Pilsner Urquell. České Budějovice is another South Bohemia beer brewing town. Its signature brand Budweiser Budvar is also known the world over. Another well-known brewery, this one in Prague, is Staropramen. Founded in 1871, it has been brewing beer in Prague ever since.

While the big breweries like those mentioned above have seen more of their growth in recent years come from exports, craft brewers are doing surprisingly well here. Czechs are increasingly willing to experiment and appreciate the opportunity to try brews from a variety of microbreweries. There are some restaurants and pubs, like Nota Bene or T-anker, which feature a rotating line-up of craft beers from small brewers around the country. Cafes are often good places to try a beer not from one of the big brewers. Café Lounge for example serves both the lager and ale types of Matuška.

Pivo, prosím (beer please) is the typical drink order for most of the country. Most bars and restaurants will serve beer from one brewery only; you’ll know it by the sign hanging outside. Cheers - Na zdraví!

30 Prague In Your Pocket

ROCKY O’REILLY’S Photos of prestigious poets and pubs, Guinness on draught and an ‘O’ in its name all meet the criteria for a classic Irish watering hole. Other perks include hearty portions of international food including a huge Irish breakfast served anytime, Sky Sports broadcast on several TVs and wait staff that can easily draw your attention away from the football.QG‑10, Praha 1, Štěpánská 32, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 222 23 10 60, www. rockyoreillys.cz. Open 10:00 - 02:00. P­A­K T-ANKER Czech microbrews sipped atop a funky shopping centre with unbelievable Old Town views. In addition to a fabulous rotating stock of about 9 different draught beers, T-Anker also has a long selection of imported bottled beers. There is a food menu with meat focused main courses as well as small plates to accompany your beer. In the summer, they grill on the patio.QG‑7, Praha 1, náměstí Republiky 656/8, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 722 445 474, www.t-anker.cz. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

BEER GARDENS LETENSKÉ SADY BEER GARDEN One of the best, thanks to its fabulous views and city centre location, Letná’s beer garden is always full of a wide range of locals, visitors, young, old, dogs and more. There’s a white trailer in which to purchase your beer in a plastic cup and pay toilets nearby. Get there by walking up the steep steps from Čechův most (Tram 17) and heading right.QG‑6, Praha 7, Letná Park, MHradčanská, tel. (+ 420) 233 378 200, www.letenskyzamecek.cz/cz/restaurace/zahradnirestaurace. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Open from May to September:.

PRAŽAN BEER GARDEN Stromovka Park is a centrally located oasis of green, large enough to escape the crowds for some relaxing walks. Pražan offers the yummy, and not always easy to find, Únětice beer in their shady space. Beer snacks accompany your drink. This is a more family focused beer garden with a play area for the kids. Take tram 12 or 17 to Výstaviště Holešovice. Enter the park and walk down the main path till you see it on your right.QG‑3, Stromovka Park, MVltavská, tel. (+ 420) 601 348 313, www. restaurantprazan.cz. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

RIEGROVY SADY BEER GARDEN The young and cool flock here on hot summer nights and anytime a major sporting event is on, as in addition to lots of picnic tables, they have a large projector screen. The huts here also sell 3 different types of beer, in a proper glass.

Grilled food can be had as well. From the Jiřího z Poděbrad metro station, walk along Slavíkova then turn left onto Krkonošská. It’s at the top of the hill. Note that they will stay open later if the weather is good and there’s a good crowd in.QI‑10, Riegrovy sady, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+ 420) 222 717 247, www.restauraceriegrovysady.cz/ zahradky/?lang=en. Open 12:00 - 24:00. prague.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife CLUBS

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT

AKROPOLIS Music fans will want to check out the Akropolis website to see what’s on before heading to Prague. The venue has an excellent reputation for showing a great mix of Czech rock bands, jazz groups, contemporary dance and more. Regular DJs, the occasional festival, rotating art exhibitions – plus a really cool café/bar makes Akropolis a wonderful place to check out in the Jiřího z Poděbrad neighbourhood of Prague 3.QJ‑9, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+ 420) 296 330 913/(+420) 296 330 990–91, www.palacakropolis. cz. Open 16:00 - 04:00. Admission 30 - 400Kč. E­K­W

Let’s not beat around the bush, Prague is Sex City.

Indeed, for many people the presence of quasi-legal brothels, strip clubs and massage parlours is the primary reason for visiting the Czech capital. The city has therefore over the years earnt itself something of a reputation for being the stag night capital of Europe, a fact that not everyone is happy about. Do not be surprised to see the words ‘No Stag Parties’ displayed on the windows of bars, pubs and even the odd adult entertainment establishment.

CROSS CLUB One of Prague’s underground legends has emerged into legal luminescence as the cool kid on the block. The labyrinthine den has, despite its slightly out of the way location, become a firm favourite. Jungle, drum ‘n base, house and chill out have their own rooms and the music, whether DJ or live, has to compete with some of the funkiest, most inventive and ever-changing décor around.QI‑3, Plynární 23, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+ 420) 736 53 50 53, www.crossclub.cz.

Open 18:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 07:00. 6­E­B­K DUPLEX Happening Wenceslas Square club, Duplex offers loud music, crazy lights, four bars and two platforms. Located on the sixth and seventh floors, you’ll also be treated to great Prague views. DJs are a mix of Czech and international guests.QG‑9, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 732 22 11 11, www.duplex.cz. Open Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. A­B­K KARLOVY LÁZNĚ Calling itself the biggest music club in Central Europe, this 5-level club on the banks of the Vltava River is populated by young, international partiers. Each floor features a different sound, so you can pick you fav or move around for a more eclectic club going experience. Main floor is mainstream, next is dance music, followed by oldies. Next up is hip hop and R’nB with a chill out floor at the top when you just can’t take anymore.QE‑9, Smetanovo nábreží 198, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 22 05 02, www. karlovylazne.cz. Open 21:00 - 05:00. Admission 50Kč (21:00-22:00). After 22:00 120Kč.

LUCERNA MUSIC BAR Great place to see what’s brewing on the Czech music scene, this music bar is located in the basement of the lovely Lucerna passage way. A nice mix of foreign bands and already popular or up-and-coming Czech ones, the atmosphere is fairly intimate with a unique round stage.

On non-event nights, you can pop down for a drink at the bar. If there’s no event on the weekends, Lucerna is closed.

QG‑9, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 224 21 71 08, www.musicbar.cz. Open 09:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun, On the day of event open untill the end of the event. Admission 100 - 1000Kč. P­E facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

First off, a few legalities.

While prostitution in the Czech Republic is legal, almost everything that surrounds the industry is not: keeping a brothel, is not, for example, legal. Quite what constitutes a brothel is a moot point however, for the laws are quite deliberately ambiguous. As such, individual cities tend to take their own approach, and Prague’s has for many years been one of complete tolerance. You will therefore be able to visit the city’s many ‘gentlemen’s’ or ‘relax’ clubs with impunity, at least from local law enforcement. That is not to say that there are not hazards, for there are many, and there are a couple of golden rules to follow to ensure you keep your nose (if nothing else) clean.

Never approach working girls in the street, nor respond to any who may approach you. It is also not uncommon (especially late at night on Wenceslas Square) to be approached by men who will try and offer you girls, and/or try and get you into clubs. Ignore them.

We list a number of clubs we happy to vouch for online at iyp.me/adultprague. Now, while we can never be 100 per cent certain of anything, we do know that these are all clubs which have been around for a very long time and have a reputation as being legitimate, upstanding businesses offering all sorts of delights within the law. Stick to these and you will have a great time in Prague. Note, however, that if you take a taxi to any of these places, the driver may try to divert you to another club - one which is paying him for bringing in clients. Stick to your original destination.

We would also point out that some clubs are quite small, and get very busy at the weekend: phone ahead to reserve and make sure that they can accommodate you. Twelve lads turning up half-drunk in identical t-shirts at three in the morning are likely to be disappointed.

Finally, wherever you go, use your common sense and watch what you are spending. Make sure you know the price of everything - including (indeed, especially) drinks - before taking part in any adult activities and where possible try to deal only in cash. The genuine horror stories you hear about across Europe involve credit card fraud, so play safe.

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Essential Prague

Prague’s breathtaking Charles Bridge

The essentials of Prague - if you see nothing else, do not miss these sights. Obviously in this city that has been a destination for hundreds of years, there is much to see and do, and one of the most enjoyable aspects is just wandering around. Don’t forget to look up as the gilded spires are rightfully what Prague is renowned for.

JEWISH PRAGUE Prague’s Jewish community was one of the oldest in Europe, and rich in history, legend and tragedy. Here, the story goes, Rabbi Loew created the Golem nearly half a millennium ago. You can read more about Jewish Prague on page ??

CHARLES BRIDGE Karlův most joins Staré Město (Old Town) and the Malá Strana (Little Quarter) and is one of the world’s most beautiful bridges. The bridge was built in 1357, but the figures of saints were added during the 17th century. They symbolise the confidence of the Catholic Austrian’s triumph over the Protestant Hussites. The bridge is thronged all day with tourists, while at night it offers wonderful views of the illuminated castle and Old Town. Go at dawn to be alone and witness the saints emerging from the mist.QD‑8, Karlův most, MStaroměstská.

MUNICIPAL HOUSE (OBECNÍ DŮM) The magnificent Obecní Dům building holds two restaurants, a super café, an American bar, a gallery, shop and classical music venue. Built between 1905 and 1910 in the architecturally stunning Art Nouveau style, the Municipal House has been painstakingly restored to its former glory. It was here that the Czechoslovakian state was signed into being on October 28, 1918. It was also here in 1989 that communist bureaucrats and revolution leaders of the Civic Forum discussed the velvet transfer of power and the state’s transformation to democracy.QG‑8, nám.

Republiky 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 222 00 21 01, www.obecnidum.cz/en. Guided tours 290/240Kč, children up to 10 free.

CHURCH OF MOTHER OF GOD BEFORE TÝN (KOSTEL MATKY BOŽÍ PŘED TÝNEM) The domineering sight on Prague’s Old Town Square, the Týn Church is one of the most impressive gothic buildings remaining in Prague. The interior is a showpiece to gothic, renaissance and early baroque religious works. Two especially interesting items are the organ, which is the oldest in Prague and the tomb of astronomer Tycho Brahe.

QF‑8, Staroměstské náměstí 604, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 31 81 86, www.tyn.cz. Open 10:00 - 13:00 and 15:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. (Recommended donation 25Kč).

32 Prague In Your Pocket

NATIONAL THEATRE (NÁRODNÍ DIVADLO) This lavish neo-Renaissance building on the bank of the Vltava, with its golden crown of chariot-driving women, is Prague’s National Theatre. The building was completed in 1881 and was almost immediately destroyed by fire. It reopened in 1883. See Events for the current programme.

QE‑9, Národní 2, MNárodní třída, tel. (+ 420) 224 90 14 48, www.narodni-divadlo.cz/en. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. prague.inyourpocket.com

Essential Prague OLD TOWN SQUARE (STAROMĚSTSKÉ NÁMĚSTÍ) The indisputable heart of Prague. This vast open space is flanked by a pleasing blend of carefully restored architectural styles: Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and neostyles. The square is notable for its constant hum of activity, day and night, and a long history as centre stage for so many of the city’s defining moments, from the execution of preacher J. Želivský in 1422, to the attacks on Soviet tanks with Molotov cocktails in 1968. Towering above the square, half-hidden behind a row of houses, is the fairy-turreted Týn Church. The centrepiece of the square is a memorial to Jan Hus. It was draped in swastikas by the Nazis and in black cloth to mourn the passing of the Prague Spring.

QF‑8, MStaroměstská.

PRAGUE CASTLE The largest collection of wonders in the city, Prague castle is an amalgamation of architecture from different periods.

From the almost pastoral serenity of St. George’s Basilica, to the awe-inspiring Gothic power of St. Vitus Cathedral, the castle has attractions for all - history and architecture plus marching soldiers and entertainment. You can read more about Prague Castle on page ??QC‑7, Pražský hrad, MHradčanská, tel. (+ 420) 224 372 423, www.hrad.cz/ en. Open 06:00 - 22:00.

STRAHOV MONASTERY The Strahov Monastery has stood near the castle since 1140. Today, you can visit two of this Romanesque monastery’s highlights: the Strahov Library and the Picture Gallery. Containing about 1500 pieces of artwork, the Picture Gallery has items dating from the 1300s through to the 19th century. The Library is a stunner, divided into the Theological Hall and Philosophical Hall, they are packed with texts, frescos and 17th century globes. Unfortunately, you can’t enter the rooms. Tram 22 to Pohořelec.QA‑8, Strahovské nádvoří 1, tel. (+ 420) 233 10 77 04, www. strahovskyklaster.cz/en. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 60/40Kč. J

VYŠEHRAD The rocky cliff-top boasts Prague’s second castle. In the hearts and minds of many Czechs, Vyšehrad symbolises the birth of the Czech nation and is shrouded in legend and myth. This is apparently the spot where Princess Libuše stood and predicted the rise of a great city. Literally translated as ‘high castle’, it was probably founded in the middle of the 10th century. In 972 Prince Boleslav II built the royal mint here, and in 1085 Vratislav II selected it as his residence. Over the following centuries successive kings remodelled the palace and fortress, but moved their permanent home across the river. Within the fortress confines is the national cemetery (Vyšehradský hřbitov), which from the 1870s became the final resting place of many of the most famous Czech writers and composers, including Jan Neruda, Bedřich Smetana and Antonín Dvořák.QF‑14, V Pevnosti 159/5b., MVyšehrad, tel. (+ 420) 241 41 03 48/(+420) 241 41 02 47. Open 09:30 17:30, In summer open until 18:00.

WENCESLAS SQUARE (VÁCLAVSKÉ NÁMĚSTÍ­) Václavské náměstí­is actually a boulevard running down from the National Museum and the equestrian statue of Saint Wenceslas to Můstek, formerly the site of of a city gate and drawbridge. This is where crowds traditionally come to demonstrate against their incompetent rulers, and this was where, in 1989, thousands gathered to shake their keys in celebration of the death of the Communist Party.

Rows of shops, hotels (note the Art Nouveau glory of Hotel Europa) and nightclubs flank the pavements, and by night it can get a bit sleasy. Thankfully, there are plans to rid the square of cars, bury the highway in front of the museum in a tunnel and have tram N°11 make a come-back.QG‑9, Praha 1, Václavské nám., MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 221 714 714, www.praguecitytourism.cz/en.

TOWN HALL & ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK (STAROMĚSTSKÁ RADNICE) The 14th century Town Hall complex features a tower with an astronomical clock, added in the 15th century. Every hour on the hour Jesus and his disciples lead a pageant that includes the allegorical figures of Death, the Turk, the Miser, the Fool and the Rooster. It sounds more impressive than it actually is, but it’s still worth a look. The climb or lift up the tower is rewarded by the stunning views.QF‑8, Staroměstské nám. 1/3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 775 400 052, www.staromestskaradnicepraha.cz/en.

Open 09:00 - 22:00, Mon 11:00 - 22:00, Historical halls and underground close at 18:00. Admission 130/80Kč.

Family ticket 280Kč.

Full contents online: prague.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

Wenceslas Square

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Prague Castle

A visit to Prague Castle is a day-trip in itself

The defining monument on Prague’s picturesque skyline, Prague Castle today is the seat of the president and an important historical and cultural testament to the country.

GETTING THERE There are four ways to approach the castle. By far the best way is to take tram N°22 to the (A-7) Pohořelec stop, where you start with breathtaking views of Prague from Strahov Monastery; then walk down through the beautiful Hradčanská district along Loretánská towards the main castle entrance on Hradčanské náměstí. You can skip the Hradčanská walk by getting off the tram earlier, at the (C-7) Pražský hrad stop, from where you enter the second courtyard. Alternatively, walk up (C-8) Nerudova and the steep hill from Malostranské náměstí. The worst approach is up the (C-7) Staré zámecké schody steps near Malostranská metro station; these are best kept for the way down.

THE CASTLE Its current status dates way back and the complex in some form has experienced nearly all events of importance throughout the centuries. Research dates the founding to around the year 880 by Prince Bořivoj. This medieval structure was more of a fort with a moat and clay and stone ramparts. The Church of Virgin Mary was the first house of worship here with churches dedicated to St. George and St. Vitus coming along in the first half of the 10th century.

34 Prague In Your Pocket

Already in the 10th century, Prague Castle was the representative governing site. Here you had the seat of the head of state, princes and later kings as well as the Prague bishop. The first convent in Bohemia was also founded on the grounds of Prague Castle, built for an order of Benedictine nuns next to St. George’s.

The towering St. Vitus is really what you are viewing when you gaze at Prague Castle from down below. Built on the site of the original rotunda, it was the main castle church beginning in the 11th century. Relics of Bohemia’s patron saints were kept here including St. Vitus, St. Wenceslas and St. Adalbert.

As with most of the rest of Prague, the Castle area flourished under King and later Emperor Charles IV in the middle of the 14th century. This was when it first became an imperial residence as the seat of the ruler of the Holy Roman Empire. The royal palace was magnificently rebuilt and the fortifications strengthened. Building began on the Gothic church of St. Vitus, modelled after French cathedrals.

Although the Castle’s prosperity continued during the reign of Charles’s son, Wenceslas IV, the Hussite wars in the 15th century saw the Castle go uninhabited with its buildings and fortifications falling into disrepair. Towards the end of the century, new rule brought a revamping of the Castle with the Powder Tower, New White Tower and Daliborka built on the property’s northern side. This is also when the royal palace was rebuilt and the fabulous Vladislav Hall added. prague.inyourpocket.com

Prague Castle When the Habsburgs moved in, they brought a renaissance flair to the place. Garden lovers, this is when the Royal Garden was designed and along with the Summer Palace, the Ball Game Hall, a shooting range and the Lion’s Court.

After Charles IV, Rudolph II was probably the Castle’s most influential resident. During his rule in the second half of the 16th century, the emperor settled permanently here and began to turn it into a grand centre of his empire. He is responsible for the northern wing of the palace (today home to the Spanish Hall), built specifically for his artistic and scientific collections.

TICKET PRICES Prague Castle – Circuit A St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, The Story of Prague Castle exhibition, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower, Powder Tower Prague Castle – Circuit B St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower

The last great rebuilding of the Castle was carried out in the second half of the 18th century, however by that time Prague had lost its European dominance to Vienna and was a pretty insubstantial town. Emperor Ferdinand V chose Prague Castle as his home in 1848 and had the Chapel of the Holy Cross rebuilt. The Spanish Hall and the Rudolph Gallery also got a makeover. There were also calls to finally finish St. Vitus, not by Ferdinand though but by the patriotic Union for Completing the Cathedral of St. Vitus. Despite their efforts, the Cathedral wasn’t completed until 1929.

Prague Castle – Circuit C ‘The Treasury of St. Vitus Cathedral’ exhibition, Prague Castle Picture Gallery

Ticket type

Normal

Reduced Family

After the declaration of an independent Czechoslovak Republic in 1918, Prague Castle again became the seat of the head of state. Under communism, many of the palaces were closed to the public, operating as various government institutions. This changed after 1989.

Prague Castle - Circuit A

350Kč

175Kč

700Kč

Prague Castle - Circuit B

250Kč

125Kč

500Kč

Still today, Prague Castle is of great importance to the city and country as a whole. The Crown Jewels are kept here, as are the relics of Bohemian kings, Christian relics, art treasures and historical documents. At the same time, significant events of national importance are still held at Prague Castle.

The complex is truly a bridge from the past to the present.

C-7, Prague Castle, tel. (+420) 224 372 423, www. hrad.cz/en. Open from 06:00 - 22:00 but the historical buildings only from 09:00 - 17:00 (09:00 - 16:00 NovMar).

ARCHBISHOP’S PALACE (ARCIBISKUPSKÝ PALÁC) The early Renaissance Archbishop’s Palace is not open to the public, but if you look carefully at the heraldic device on the front of the building you can spot different hats according to the rank of the church official. For instance, the archbishop is represented by a green hat with ten tassels, and the bishops are those with green hats and five tassels. Note that the Archbishop’s Palace is inaccessible for tourists.QB‑7, Hradčanské nám. 16, www.hrad.cz/en.

DALIBORKA TOWER Built in 1496 and used as a prison till the end of 18th century, the tower stands on your left as you exit the Golden Lane. It is so named for its first prisoner, Dalibor of Kozojedy, whose story was told by Smetana in his 1868 opera Dalibor. The underground cell is truly terrifying.QC‑7, Prague Castle, tel. (+ 420) 224 373 584,, www.hrad.cz/en. facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

The Story of Prague Castle exhibition The Treasury of St. Vitus Cathedral’ exhibition Prague Castle Picture Gallery Powder Tower – Castle Guard exhibition Great South Tower with a View Gallery

Prague Castle - Circuit C

350Kč

175Kč

700Kč

The Story of Prague Castle

140Kč

70Kč

280Kč

Prague Castle Picture Gallery

100Kč

50Kč

200Kč

Powder Tower

70Kč

40Kč

140Kč

Treasury of St. Vitus Cathedral

300Kč

150Kč

600Kč

Great South Tower

150Kč

n/a

n/a

Reduced tickets available for children aged 6-16, fulltime students and over-65s. Family tickets are valid for up to 2 adults and up to 5 children under 16. Children under the age of 6 free. Tickets are valid for two days (the day of the purchase and the following day). Tickets are available in Prague Castle Information points in the second and third courtyards; at the Prague Castle Picture Gallery, in the Old Royal Palace and at two ticket offices in Golden Lane.

The First Courtyard

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Prague Castle was the king’s palace. The magnificent Vladislav Hall was used for banquets, councils, coronations and even jousting.

All presidents have been sworn in here, and this building was where the 1618 defenestration took place. The palace contains The Story of Prague Castle exhibition. Don’t forget to have a look at the Rampart Gardens below.QC‑7, Prague Castle, www.hrad.cz/en.

Golden Lane

FIRST COURTYARD Pause at the castle gates to admire the soldiers’ uniforms (designed by the wardrobe designer of the film Amadeus), and hopefully see the changing of the guard. Then move into the courtyard flanking the presidential rooms, which are not open to the public. These are numerous and include the Spanish Hall, once the venue for meetings of the Czechoslovak Communist Party. As you walk through the archway, the steps on your right are where many of the official greetings are made to visiting heads of state.QC‑7, Prague Castle, www.hrad.cz/en.

GOLDEN LANE (ZLATÁ ULIČKA) The phrase ‘picturesque street’ might have been invented to describe this tiny cobbled lane with its miniature workers’ cottages. After a lengthy reconstruction, the Lane reopened to feature displays on how past residents of the street used to live. A few of the souvenir shops do remain.

It was on this street, or so legend has it, that 16th-century alchemists laboured to discover the Philosopher’s Stone to make gold from lead. Franz Kafka spent evenings at his sister’s house, N°22.QC‑7, Prague Castle, www.hrad.cz/ en.

HRADČANY The area known as Hradčany is actually all the buildings on the top of the hill. The first buildings date from around the year 880, but the castle’s golden age came in the middle of the 14th century when it was imperial residence to Emperor Charles IV. He rebuilt the royal palace and had all the fortifications strengthened. More recently former president Havel took a personal interest in restoration work at the castle. He is also responsible for designing the lighting, which makes the castle look so beautiful at night. What else could you expect from a man of the theatre?QC‑7, MHradčanská, tel. (+ 420) 224 372 423, www.hrad.cz/en.

OLD ROYAL PALACE (STARÝ KRÁLOVSKÝ PALÁC) One of the oldest and most impressive parts of the castle, the Old Royal Palace dates from 1135 and was the seat of Bohemian princes. From the 13th to the 16th century it 36 Prague In Your Pocket

PICTURE GALLERY AT PRAGUE CASTLE Launched by Emperor Rudolf II, an intensive collector of art from artists across the Holy Roman Empire, the collection once amounted to 3000 pieces. The ensuing years saw much of Rudolf’s collection dispersed throughout the continent. Today, European paintings from the 15th-18th centuries are on display, a fraction of what was Rudolf’s and boosted by additional purchases through the years.

Highlights include Titian’s The Toilet of a Young Lady and Rubens’ The Assembly of the Olympic Gods.QC‑7, Prague Castle, www.hrad.cz/en.

POWDER TOWER (MIHULKA) Originally built as a cannon tower, the Powder Tower unfortunately never got to showcase its prowess. It was put to use as the home of Tomáš Jaroš, best known for designing the Singing Fountain located in the Royal Gardens. The tower was also used as an alchemist’s workshop during Rudolf II’s reign and as a storage for gunpowder, hence its common name. Visiting today, you can see an exhibition on the Castle Guard.QC‑7, Prague Castle, www.hrad.cz/en.

ROYAL GARDENS & STAG MOAT (KRÁLOVSKÁ ZAHRADA) North of the castle walls are a succession of orderly and manicured gardens. They were first laid out in 1534 and are home to the Míčovna or Ball Game Hall, the most ornate sports centre we’ve ever seen. Further along the eastern edge of the castle area you can find the Renaissance summer palace (Královský letohrádek), where Europe’s first tulips, a present from Turkey, were cultivated. The views over the castle and city are great from here.

The Stag Moat (Jelení příkop) below the ramparts of the castle was reopened to the general public by President Vaclav Havel. Despite the name there hasn’t been a stag here since ravenous soldiers gobbled up the last of them by the 17th century. The walk, which in parts can be more of a clamber, is worth it for the whole new view of the castle from the gardens. It also takes you past tennis courts, enjoyed by castle employees, and through a beautifully designed and lit tunnel.

The gardens on the southern side of the castle can be entered via steps to the right of the main castle gate. The main garden on the southern side is the ramparts garden (Zahrada Na Valech), which overlooks Malá Strana. The Rampart Gardens are bordered to the west by the Paradise Garden (Rajská zahrada) and on the south to the Hartig Garden (Hartigovská zahrada), which surrounds the Music Pavilion (Hudební pavilon). In the 1920s and 30s the Rampart Gardens were redesigned by Slovenian architect prague.inyourpocket.com

Prague Castle Josip Plečnik. Unfortunately, his work was only seen for a brief time before they were closed to the spying masses, and again, Havel insisted that they be reopened.QC‑6, Prague Castle, www.hrad.cz/en. Open 10:00-18:00.

Closed from November-March.

SALM PALACE (SALMOVSKÝ PALÁC) This large classicist building sits just outside the main entrance to Prague Castle on Hradčanské náměstí. Its current look is courtesy of a radical reconstruction of older residences from 1800-1811. During communism it was used by the foreign services. The National Gallery holds a permanent exhibition of 19th century art from neo-Classicism to Romanticism. Entry is not included with a Prague Castle ticket.QB‑7, Hradčanské nám.

185/2, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 233 081 730, www.ngprague.cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300/150Kč. Note that this is not included in the Prague Castle ticket.

SCHWARZENBERG PALACE (SCHWARZENBERSKÝ PALÁC) The most distinctive and largest of the buildings on the cobbled square sweeping into the castle is this palace with decorated bricks - are they flat? Built between 1545 -1563, the building is run by the National Gallery and houses a permanent exhibition on Baroque in Bohemia.

QB‑7, Hradčanské nám. 2, www.ngprague.cz/en.

Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300/150Kč.

Note that this is not included in the Prague Castle ticket.

SECOND COURTYARD Reconstructed by Empress Maria Theresa, this courtyard acts as an intersection point for two of the entrances into the castle. You can exit under the archway to reach the Stag Moat, Royal Gardens and tram N°22.QC‑7, Prague Castle, MMalostranská, www.hrad.cz/en.

SOUTH GARDENS Also referred to as the Palace Gardens, these are actually three gardens built on the remains of the the bulwarks on the south side of the castle. As such they are a set of steeply terraced gardens leading up to the castle. The steep climb up to the castle is rewarded by fitness, some beautiful landscaping and stunning views of the city.QC‑7, Valdštejnská 12-14, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 214 817, www.hrad.cz/en. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed from November-March.

STERNBERG PALACE (ŠTERNBERSKÝ PALÁC) Sharing an entrance with the Archbishop’s Palace is the Šternberský palác from 1698. It’s part of the National Gallery and home to their collection of Old Masters, including Rubens and Rembrandt.QB‑7, Hradčanské nám. 15, tel. (+ 420) 233 350 068, www.ngprague.cz.

Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300/150Kč.

Note that this is not included in the Prague Castle ticket. facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

ST. GEORGE’S BASILICA (BAZILIKA SVATÉHO JIŘÍ) The basilica is the Romanesque church lurking behind a Baroque facade in the courtyard behind St. Vitus. Now deconsecrated, it serves as a concert hall. In the chapel on the right of the presbytery is the tomb of St. Ludmila, the first Czech saint.QC‑7, Prague Castle, www.hrad.cz/en.

ST. VITUS CATHEDRAL (KATEDRÁLA SVATÉHO VÍTA) Moving into the third courtyard of the castle you’ll face one of Europe’s great Gothic cathedrals. St. Vitus is the spiritual heart of the nation as the mausoleum of Bohemian kings and the city’s greatest landmark. Work on the present cathedral was started in 1344 but it wasn’t consecrated until 1929. Check out Mucha’s stained glass window and the door with seven locks leading to the crown jewels. Don’t miss the beautiful mosaic depicting the Last Judgement of Christ on the exterior of the cathedral.

The mosaic is 84 square metres and was created in 1371.

In nice weather, test your legs with a climb of 287 steps to the top of St Vitus’ south tower. Here you can become acquainted with Zikmund, the biggest bell in the country.

QC‑7, Prague Castle, MMalostranská, www.hrad.cz/ en. Open 09.00 - 17.00, Open Mon-Sat 09:00-17:00, Sun 12:00-17:00. Last entrance at 16:40. Great South Tower open 10.00 – 18.00. Last entrance at 17.30.

TREASURY OF ST. VITUS CATHEDRAL One of the newer permanent exhibitions at Prague Castle, the Treasury is the largest in the country and one of the most significant church treasuries in Central Europe.

Highlights include a gold coronation cross crafted during the time of Charles IV; reliquary busts of the Saints Vitus, Wenceslas and Adalbert, who are not only the cathedral’s principal patron saints but also the historical protectors of the Kingdom of Bohemia; a diamond-studded monstrance from the baroque era and probably the most bizarre item, a relic of the arm of Saint Vitus, acquired by Prince Wenceslas in 929 from Henry I, Duke of Saxony. The exhibition is a fascinating journey through the history of spiritual wealth amassed in the region.QC‑7, Prague Castle, www.hrad. cz/en. Open 10.00 – 18.00. Last entrance at 17.30.

St. Vitus Cathedral

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Sightseeing

The Town Hall Astronomical Clock

BREWERY TOURS

CHURCHES

STAROPRAMEN BREWERY Hour-long tours of one of Prague’s most famous brews are available daily. It’s a 50 minute interactive walk through the beer’s history, including how the beer came to be, the brewing and bottling process and its connection to Prague. The pub in the brewery is definitely worth a stop for the sheer freshness of the beer.QD‑13, Pivovarská 9, MAnděl, tel. (+ 420) 273 13 25 89, www.center. staropramen.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 199/169Kč. Children 99Kč. Children up to 6 years free.

Family ticket (2 adults and 2 children up to 12 years of age) 449Kč,.

BETHLEHEM CHAPEL From 1402 to 1412, Jan Hus preached at the Bethlehem Chapel, hence it’s significance for non-Catholics, but in 1622, the Jesuits took control of the chapel and Catholic mass became the service of the day. Then in 1786 it was levelled, only to be rebuilt (somewhat strangely) by the communists, who had preserved its architectural plans in 1950. Apparently, they were keen to exploit the chapel’s symbolism as an historic emblem of Czech national pride.

QE‑9, Betlémské nám. 255/4, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 24 85 95/(+420) 222 22 10 30. Open 10:00 18:00. J

CASTLES & PALACES

BŘEVNOV MONASTERY (BENEDICTINE ARCHABBEY) Established in 992-993 by the Bishop of Prague, Vojtěch, and the Bohemian Prince, Boleslav II, Břevnov Monastery is the oldest Benedictine monastery in the Czech Republic. The former wooden monastery underwent Roman then Gothic renovation. During the Hussite wars it was burned down, but 200 years later, it was crafted into its present Baroque form. The large monastery complex contains the Basilica of St. Markety, gardens and a Romanesque crypt. Guided tours are available on weekends and the gardens are free to visit daily. There is also a brewery on site and restaurant serving the monastery’s beer and good Czech food. Tram 22, 25 to Břevnovský klášter.QMarkétská 1, tel. (+ 420) 220 40 61 11. Open 10:00 - 14:00.

KLEMENTINUM The Klementinum offers a little something for everyone: Beautiful views from the astronomical tower; baroque architecture in the library hall and classical musical concerts in the Mirror Chapel. The building dates back to 1232 and is one of the largest building complexes in Europe. It can only be seen via a guided tour which includes visiting the baroque library, meridian hall and the astronomical tower. You can also see a copy of the Vyšehrad Codex, a Latin coronation gospel book, considered the most important and valuable manuscript in Bohemia.QE‑8, Praha 1, Karlova 1, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 733 129 252, www.klementinum.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

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prague.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing LORETA One of the country’s most famous places of pilgrimage, this chapel is just a quick walk from the main entrance to the castle. Built between 1626-1720, this Baroque building contains, among other icons and objects, a painting of a bearded lady, ornate friezes, bejewelled icons and a high quota of chubby-cheeked cherubs. The small museum also houses a collection of diamond ostensories. Within the main chapel there is the brickwork supposedly from the original Loreto in Italy which was flown over from Italy by some well-meaning angels. Blasphemers take note - the split in the wall was supposedly caused by a thunderbolt fired off at one of your kind.QA‑7, Lorentánské nám. 7, www.loreta.cz. Open 09:00 - 17:00, 09:30 - 16:00 (NovMar). Admission 150/80Kč, Family 310Kč, Students 110Kč, Children under 6 free.

ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH Most people only admire this Baroque pile from the outside which is a shame, the interiors are even lovelier. Began in 1673, it would be nearly another 80 years until the Jesuits completed it. Inside, take note of the copper statue of St. Nicholas above the gold coated altar; the two statues below him are of St. Ignatius Loyola and St. Francis Xavier. The ceiling fresco depicts the apotheosis of St. Nicholas. Also of interest is the organ, which has 2500 pipes and 44 registers, and it was these very ivories that Mozart tinkled on his visit to Prague.

Organ concerts are held regularly.QC‑8, Malostranské nám.

38, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 53 42 15, www. stnicholas.cz/en. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 150Kč.

MONUMENTS VICTIMS OF COMMUNISM MEMORIAL Near the funicular railway station and opposite the Újezd tram stop, there is a controversial memorial to the victims of communism. A group of statues by Olbram Zoubek emerge into totality as they walk, or are at various stages of destruction, depending how you look at it. Why are they controversial? Other artists say they are kitschy, while feminists are angry because all the figures are male and they (quite rightly) claim women were persecuted under the communists regime too. The memorial was damaged by two bomb attacks in late 2003.QC‑9, Praha 1, Újezd tram stop, MMalostranská, www.virtualni.praha.eu/ night/memorial-to-the-victims-of-communism.html.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Czech Tourism Office

CZECH TOURISM Everything you want to know about travelling through the Czech Republic, including destinations, events, ideas and more. Most everything you want to know can be found on their website, but for a personal touch, visit them in the Old Town square.QF‑8, Staroměstské nám. 5, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 861 476, www.czechtourism.com/. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

PRAGUE CITY TOURISM This excellent official tourist information centre provides vocal and written information in various languages from helpful and knowledgeable staff, plus tickets, excursions, and accommodation.QF‑8, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 1, (Old Town Hall), MStaroměstské, www.praguecitytourism.cz/en.

Open 09:00 - 19:00.

PRAGUE CITY TOURISM QVáclavské náměstí, www.praguecitytourism.cz/ en. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

PRAGUE CITY TOURISM - AIRPORT QSchengenská, www.praguecitytourism.cz/en.

Open 08:00 - 20:00.

PRAGUE CITY TOURISM - NA MŮSTKU QRytířská 12, www.praguecitytourism.cz/en. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

MUSEUMS CHARLES BRIDGE MUSEUM This museum, opened to coincide with the 650th anniversary of the building of Charles Bridge in 1357 (the clever number logo is no coincidence, 135797531. The first stone was laid at 05:31 on 9 July). English texts are available to explain the unique Knights of the Red Cross hospital location, their church and crypt, various bridges; an arch and pillar of the even older (1158 - 1172) Judit Bridge, and others in the region, construction techniques, etc. Charles Bridge, with its statues and history, is the focus but there facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

Tourism Office on Old Town Square

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Sightseeing THE STATUES OF CHARLES BRIDGE The city of Prague owes a lot of Charles IV – it’s easy to tell by all the “Charles” whatevers dotted around town (Charles University, Charles Square, etc.) But the most well-known namesake is definitely his Bridge.

Dominated by a tower at each end, as well as 30 Baroque-style statues, the Bridge is the ultimate photo op, tourist stroll in Prague. Visit during the day, and you are surrounded by musicians, artists and craftsman.

Stay up late and cross it at night though – it’s a special experience you won’t soon forget.

The statues were erected mostly between 1683 and 1714, the most prominent sculptors of the day took part – including Matthais Braun and Ferdinand Maxmilian.

Unfortunately, the statues you see today aren’t the originals.

Back in the 1960’s they were taken down and replaced – the originals now live out their retirement at the National Museum. Following is a list of the statues in order if you are travelling from the Old Town side to Malá Strana.

STATUES ON THE SOUTH SIDE: St. Ivo – the patron saint of lawyers Sts. Barbara, Margaret and Elizabeth Statue of the lamenting of Christ St. Joseph – the original was destroyed by cannon fire during the 1848 revolution.

St. Francis Xavier St. Christopher St. Francis Borgia St. Ludmila – St. Wenceslas’ grandmother St. Francis of Assisi Sts. Vincent Ferrer and Procopius St. Nicholas of Tolentino St. Luthgard St. Adalbert Sts. John of Matha, Felix of Valois and Ivan St. Wenceslas STATUES ON THE NORTH SIDE: Madonna and St. Bernard Madonna and Sts Dominic and Thomas Aquinas The Crucifix and Calvary St. Anne Sts. Cyril and Methodius St. John the Baptist Sts. Norbert of Xanten, Wenscelas and Sigismund St. John of Nepomuk – Thrown from the bridge to his death; it is now considered good luck to touch his statue St. Anthony of Padua St. Jude Thaddeus St. Augustine St. Cajetan St. Philip Benitius St. Vitus St. Salvator with Cosmas and Damian 40 Prague In Your Pocket

is so much more. Fascinating.QE‑8, Praha 1, Křižovnické nám. 3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 776 776 779, www. muzeumkarlovamostu.cz. Open 10:00 - 20:00. October April 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 150/70Kč. Family 320Kč.

CITY MUSEUM (MUZEUM HLAVNÍHO MĚSTA PRAHY) This homage to the city of a hundred spires includes facts and relics from prehistoric, Mediaeval and Middle Age times plus about five exhibitions throughout the year dealing with some aspect of Prague’s history. The highlight here is the Langweil model, a gigantic model of the entire city at the beginning of the 19th century. Handmade out of cardboard, it took 11 years to construct.QI‑7, Na Poříčí 52, tel. (+ 420) 224 81 67 72/+420 221 709 674, www.muzeumprahy.cz. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/30Kč. J­A DOX CENTRE FOR CONTEMPORARY ART Probably one of the best contemporary art museums in central Europe, Dox offers thought provoking exhibitions in a beautiful, sprawling space. The building itself is amazing – a mix of old metal factory and new build right in the heart of industrial Holešovice. Contemporary art from around the world is presented in the often group exhibitions, with Czech contemporary artists alongside. Art fans should not miss this one.QJ‑3, Poupětova 1, MHolešovice, tel. (+ 420) 295 568 111/+420 295 568 123, www.doxprague.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 11.00 - 19.00. Closed Tue, Ticket office closes 30 minutes before closing. Admissions 180/90Kč.

Children 7-15 years 60Kč. Children under 6 free.

KAMPA MUSEUM Located on the west bank of the Vltava in the shadow of Prague Castle, the museum has on display three major permanent exhibitions, featuring works by the pioneering abstract artist František Kupka, Cubist sculptor Otto Gutfreund and a large collection of modern works dating from the 1950s to present day by central European artists. They also have temporary exhibits. Museum Kampa is one of the best places to explore 20th century central European art. The space and location is beautiful too.QD‑9, U Sovových mlýnů 2, tel. (+ 420) 257 28 61 47/+420 257 286 132, www.museumkampa.com/ en. Open 07:00 - 18:00. Admission 240/120Kč. Children under 6 free €. Y­J­G­K­W

Kampa Museum

prague.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing youtube.com/inyourpocket KAREL ZEMAN MUSEUM (FILM SPECIAL EFFECTS MUSEUM) Cinema lovers will want to visit this homage to a special effects genius, Karel Zeman. 1955’s Journey to the Beginning of Time was Zeman’s breakthrough film, his first to combine live action, animation and puppetry. The Fabulous World of Jules Verne released four years later, garnered him worldwide renown. At the Museum, you can discover his life and films, beginning with his first animations and puppet films all the way through to his final creative period. You may be inspired to get creative as well, the museum’s rooms are designed like studio sets and taking pictures and shooting movies is encouraged.

QD‑8, Saský dvůr – Saská 3, tel. (+ 420) 724 341 091, www.muzeumkarlazemana.cz. Open 10:00 - 19:00.

Admission 200/140 Kč. Children under 1 metre tall free.

Family ticket (max. 2 adults and 3 children) 490 Kč €€.

Y­J­A­G MÁNES EXHIBITION HALL (VÝSTAVNÍ SÍŇ MÁNES) Originally designed in 1928 as a permanent place for the Society of Artists to house their exhibitions, Mánes is an excellent example of Prague Functionalism. They host temporary exhibitions on a not-so-regular schedule. There’s a café, restaurant and terrace though to get small glimpses of the architecture.QE‑10, Masarykovo nábřeží 250, tel. (+ 420) 224 93 29 38, www.ncvu.eu. Open 12:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon. J­G MUCHA MUSEUM Mucha shaped the Art Nouveau movement with his groundbreaking (and often stolen from Paris’ streets) posters for actress Sarah Bernhardt and the Theatre de la Renaissance, and has some renown as a photographer with the studies for his various masterpieces. He also has an excellent shot of a trouserless Paul Gauguin at a harmonium. A fitting tribute to artistic genius, whether you prefer his pastel seasons, the accusing desperation of the Slav Epic (his incomplete and huge magnum opus of which there are strangely no photos), or modern prints on everything from coasters to mousepads. Don’t miss the short biographical film.QG‑9, Panská 7, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 224 216 415, www.mucha.cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Admission 240/160 Kč. A­G MUSEUM OF COMMUNISM For a quick and dirty rundown of communism in Czechoslovakia, hunt down this museum located upstairs from a McDonald’s. It’s not big and some of the displays look quite amateurish but there is some good information and some of the artifacts, like the posters and photos, are quite interesting.QF‑9, Na Příkopě 10, tel. (+ 420) 224 21 29 66, www.muzeumkomunismu.cz. Open 09:00 21:00. Admission 190/150 Kč. ­G facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

THE DANCING HOUSE THE DANCING HOUSE (TANČÍCÍ DŮM) One of Prague’s most photographed buildings from recent centuries turned 20 in 2016. The Dancing House, or Tančící dům, was one of the city’s first modern buildings built after the fall of communism in 1989. It officially opened in June 1996.

Built by architects Frank O. Gehry and Vlado Milunič, the building incorporates interesting elements of symbolism. Meant in part to signify the transition out of communism and into a free society, the two distinct halves come together with both a dynamic and static side. It is supposed to look like a dancing couple (Gehry was supposedly inspired by famed dancing duo Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers and wanted to call the building Fred and Ginger, which never really caught on.) The concrete part is the male dancer with the glass side acting as his more fluid female partner. Medusa is the large metal sculpture crowning them both at the top of the building.

Today, the Dancing House is mainly filled with offices, but there are a few ways to get a glimpse inside. There’s a gallery, Gallery Dancing House (Galerie Tančící dům) which shows temporary exhibitions of Czech artists and themes; a 7th floor restaurant called Ginger & Fred with a French inspired menu plus an upscale bar with an outdoor viewing platform, Glass Bar, with fabulous views of the Vltava River.

The building was quite controversial for its time. The space had been empty since World War II; the original building had been destroyed by American bombers in February 1945. One view was to style the new building similar to its neighbours, a stately row of Art Nouveau and other 20th century style inspired houses. While Prague’s historical architecture is one reason the city is still so beautiful, anyone wanting to do any sort of ‘modern’ construction still has a fight on their hands.

Interestingly, Czechoslovakia’s first president, Václav Havel had a long time interest in seeing something built on the site. Part owner of the vacant lot, he’d been trying to get something going there since the mid-80s. He and architect Milunič brainstormed Havel’s vision of a library, café and theatre on the riverfront. A lack of investors meant his plan never came to fruition however.QE‑11, Rašínovo nábř. 80, tel. (+ 420) 732 675 202, www.tancici-dum.cz. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Opening hours for the gallery.

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Sightseeing PETŘÍN

PETŘÍN With stunning views of the city and a choice of gardens and trails to explore, Petřín is packed with activities or lazing opportunities. Features include the tower, a mirror hall, an 18th century Ukrainian wooden church and Prague’s lovers enjoying the view.QC‑9, Petřínské sady, tel. (+ 420) 257 32 01 12/(+420) 725 83 16 33.

T­A­6­K PETŘÍN HILL FUNICULAR RAILWAY Dating from 1891 but completely rebuilt in 1985, the funicular runs up Petřin Hill providing beautiful views of Prague and the castle. There are two restaurants sitting at the half-way point - there is a station there.

Use regular 32Kč tickets.QC‑9, Újezd tram stop, www. dpp.cz/en/the-petrin-funicular. Runs at 10 minute intervals from 09:00 - 23:30 (April - October) and at 15 minute intervals from 09:00 - 23:20 (November March).

PETŘÍN TOWER (PETŘÍNSKÁ ROZHLEDNA) At the top of Petřin Hill stands a 60m-high tower, affording great views of the city. The building was completed in May 20, 1891. An alternative route to the castle is to ride the funky funicular up Petřín Hill and walk pass the tower across to the castle area.QB‑9, Petřínská rozhledna, MPetřín funicular, tel. (+ 420) 725 831 633, www.en.muzeumprahy.cz/198the-petrin-observation-tower/. Open 10:00 - 22:00 (May-Sep). 10:00 - 18:00 (Oct). Admission 120/65Kč.

Family ticket 300 Kč.

MIRROR LABYRINTH (ZRCADLOVÉ BLUDIŠTĚ) Right next to Petřín Tower is a hall of mirrors easily spotted thanks to its location in a mini castle. After winding your way through the maze you are rewarded with a diorama of a battle that took place on the Charles Bridge in 1648 between residents of Prague and the Swedes. Finally, see how you would look if you were short and squat or tall and skinny thanks to a series of funky mirrors.QB‑9, Praha 1, Petřínské sady, tel. (+ 420) 724 911 497. Open 10:00 - 19:00.

Admission 50 - 70Kč.

42 Prague In Your Pocket

NATIONAL TECHNICAL MUSEUM Not nearly as dull as one might expect, a massive reconstruction in recent years breathed new life into this museum, offering fresh exhibitions plus a much needed update of their tried-and-true. The great collection of unrestored cars, motorbikes, trains and other transportation beauties is joined by a beautiful architecture exhibit, one on photography, astronomy and more.QF‑5, Kostelní 42, MVltavská, tel. (+ 420) 220 399 111, fax (+420) 220 399 200, www.ntm.cz/en. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 190/90 Kč. Children under 6 free. Family ticket (max. 2 adults and 3 children) 420 Kč.

RUDOLFINUM Commissioned as concert halls and exhibition space and named after the Austrian Prince Royal who attended the opening in 1885, this is now home to the Czech Philharmonic and an exhibition space. With no permanent collection, the gallery is dedicated to temporary exhibitions with a contemporary bent and typically excellent. The concert hall entrance is from the square; the gallery entrance is around the corner facing the river.QE‑7, Alšovo nábř. 12, MStaromětská, tel. (+ 420) 227 059 205, www.galerierudolfinum.cz/en. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/80 Kč. U STONE BELL HOUSE (DŮM U KAMMENNÉHO ZVONU) The oldest Gothic house in Prague, hidden for years behind a neo-Baroque facade, has been superbly restored and now houses commendable art exhibitions run by the City Gallery of Prague.QF‑8, Staromětská nám. 13, MStaromětská, tel. (+ 420) 224 828 245/(+420) 222 327 851, www.en.ghmp.cz/stone-bell-house/. Open 10:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/60Kč.

THE HOUSE AT THE BLACK MADONNA Sadly closed for almost four years, this most-famous of Prague’s Cubist buildings was reopened by the Museum of Decorative Arts in 2015. Originally built in 1911 to house a department store, the building now holds shops on the ground floor, a Cubist café on the first and then the museum on floors two through four. The second and third levels are dedicated to a permanent exhibition on Czech Cubism while the fourth hosts temporary exhibitions related to the art movement.QG‑8, Ovocný trh 19, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 778 543 901, www.czkubismus.cz/en/thehouse-at-the-black-madonna. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 150/80Kč.

TOY MUSEUM (MUSEUM HRAČEK) Probably better for the young at heart then the truly young, Prague’s Toy Museum is located in the Prague Castle complex and does indeed have a massive collection of toys.

Lots of historical Czech toys, but also toys from around the world dating from the 18th to 20th centuries plus extensive collections of Barbie dolls and Teddy bears. For the boys, Märklin model trains and accessories, plus other model prague.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing airplanes, trains and cars. There’s also a permeant exhibition about filmmaker and cartoonist Ivan Steiger featuring wooden and tin toys.QC‑7, Jiřská 6, tel. (+ 420) 224 37 22 94. Open 09:30 - 17:30. Admission 70/30Kč. Family ticket 120Kč.

TRANSPORT MUSEUM See beautifully restored classic trams and buses from the glory days of Prague trolleys in this converted depot. Read the history and see the uniforms, old advertising hoardings, maps and photographs. The historical tram (N°91, hourly from 12:00 - 18:00) leaves from here on a journey past the castle and Václavské náměstí.QA‑6, Patočkova 4, MHradcanská, tel. (+ 420) 296 12 49 00, www.dpp.cz/ muzeum-mhd. Open 09:00 - 17:00 Sat, Sun and public holidays only. (March 25-Nov 17 only). Admission 35/20Kč.

VELETRŽNÍ PALACE (NATIONAL GALLERY) The National Gallery’s showcase spot, directors are working hard to bring this museum up to the level where it belongs. The modernist Veletržní Palace houses the Gallery’s collection of modern and contemporary art across three floors. In addition to art from the 19th20th centuries, the period is put into context with architecture, furniture, crafts, fashion and design as well as temporary exhibitions. Alfons Mucha’s Slav Epic is also here until the end of 2016. Tram N 12, 17 to Veletržní.

QH‑4, Dukelských hrdinů 47, MVltavská, tel. (+ 420) 224 301 122, www.ngprague.cz/en/objekt-detail/ veletrzni-palace/. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300/150Kč.

PLACES OF INTEREST LENNON WALL It’s a bit of a mystery why this graffiti wall opposite the French embassy in Malá Strana still draws in visitors.

During the communist era, revolutionaries slapped on antigovernment slogans, running the risk of arrest. Today the wall is covered with poems and words of peace written by millions of visitors from around the world.QD‑8, Malá Strana, Velkopřevorské nám., MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 213 420, www.prague.net/john-lennon-wall.

VILLA MÜLLER This icon of modern architecture was designed by Moravian-born Adolf Loos for construction magnate František Müller in 1930. The building looks like a solid white block from the outside, though the interior is constructed with marble, mahogany and walnut, highly polished and cleanly designed. The rooms all sit at various levels around an ascending sweeping spiral. Tram N°1,18 to Ořechovka. Advanced reservations to tour the villa are required and can be made on the website.QNad Hradním vodojemem 14, MDejvická, tel. (+ 420) 224 312 012, www.mullerovavila.cz. Open. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission 300/200Kč. English guide 100Kč. Tours by appointment only. facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

JAN HUS To use the modern vernacular, Jan Hus was a selfmade man, a rising star in the Church and a unique example of a ‘rags to riches’ story, at least in the spiritual sense. Like many men with vision and ideals, they led to his eventual downfall.

Hus arrived in Prague as a young man and supported himself by singing and working in churches. He later received theological degrees and was ordained a priest in 1400. A mere two years later he was appointed rector of the university. Trouble began brewing when he translated and distributed documents by Wyclif, which were soon deemed heretical by the Pope. The works condemned church abuses which he believed were not in keeping with the tenets of Christianity.

Hus obeyed the papal edict for a time, but gained an important ally in the form of King Wenceslas (not the first Wenceslas, the patron saint of Czech lands) who was also in favour of Wyclif’s ideas.

Meanwhile a schism had formed in the church due to a papal succession dispute and the king forbade all communications between the Czech clergy and Pope Gregory XII. The Pope on the other hand ordered the burning of all of Wyclif’s works which naturally inspired Hus to preach them from the pulpits of Prague. Hus was excommunicated and papal emissaries were sent to Prague to collect money to support his campaign against his rival by the sale of indulgences. Hus incited students and clergy alike to deride and ridicule these agents and a very angry Gregory ordered his imprisonment, an order which was ignored by the king.

In keeping with medieval tradition, Hus posted his latest treatise on the doors of the Bethlehem Church which did not go unnoticed by his rivals. He was summoned to appear before the Council of Constance to defend his views and did so at his peril. He was tried, found guilty of heresy and burned at the stake on 6 July, 1415. Today, a monument to Jan Hus occupies prime real estate in Old Town Square and Czechs are given a day off on the anniversary of his death each year.

JAN HUS MONUMENT Czech sculptors are known for occasionally pushing boundaries, but the monumental memorial to Jan Hus on Old Town Square is a marvel to both art nouveau and symbolism. The stone and bronze work by Ladislav Šaloun was unveiled in 1915 and shows Hus, a religious leader and martyr, above a burning stake, which is how he met his death. The plaque in front is a quote from Hus and says “Love each other and wish the truth to everyone.”QF‑8, Praha 1, Wenceslas square, www.prague.cz/jan-hus-monument.

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Jewish Prague

Ceremonial Hall and cemetery | © Jewish Museum in Prague

Prague’s Jewish community used to be one of the oldest in Europe, rich in history, legend and tragedy. Here, the story goes, Rabbi Loew created the Golem nearly half a millennium ago.

The community was confined to a ghetto until 1781 when Josef II issued the Edict of Tolerance, which permitted the free exercise of religion and the secularisation of education, science and art. The Jewish town is called Josefov to this day in his honour.

From the 1880s, in the name of slum-clearing, most of Josefov was razed to the ground and only a few synagogues, the cemetery and the Josefov town hall remained. Wide new streets with grand Art Nouveau buildings emerged in place of the decrepit old tenement buildings.

Later still, the Nazis all but annihilated Prague’s Jewish legacy, saving the monuments as their planned epitaph to a vanished culture. The post-war communists did little to alleviate the persecution - many of the remaining Jewish inhabitants chose to emigrate.

Today, the Josefov quarter is home to six synagogues, including the famous Spanish Synagogue and Old-New Synagogue, plus the Jewish Ceremonial Hall and the Old Jewish Cemetery. All of the sites, with the exception of the Old-New Synagogue are run by the Prague Jewish Museum.

Despite being so close to Old Town Square the streets of Josefov are often quiet and contemplative, a beautiful place to sightsee. Another item of note from the Jewish Quarter is that it was the birthplace of writer Franz Kafka. You can see a unique commemorative statue on Dusni Street.

There are three additional sites worth checking out outside of the Jewish Quarter. Close to the main train station is the Jubilee Synagogue, designed with an impossible-to44 Prague In Your Pocket

miss mix of art nouveau and pseudo-Moorish styles. The New Jewish Cemetery (Nový židovský hřbitov) in Žižkov was created in 1891 to relieve overcrowding in the Žižkov Jewish Cemetery. In addition to many notable art nouveau monuments, Franz Kafka and writer Arnošt Lustig are buried here. The Žižkov Jewish Cemetery is nearby, close to the TV Tower in Prague 3. This was originally established as a plague cemetery but only a small part has been preserved.

The Jewish Museum in Prague ticket includes the Maisel Synagogue, Pinkas Synagogue, Old Jewish Cemetery, Klausen Synagogue, Ceremonial Hall, Spanish Synagogue and temporary exhibitions in the Robert Guttmann Gallery.

Admission 300Kč/200Kč, Children under 6 free.

CEREMONIAL HALL Next to the Old Jewish Cemetery, the Ceremonial Hall was, until the end of World War I, used by the Prague Burial Society. On the first floor, the ritual washing of the dead took place, the second floor was used for society meetings. It houses the second part of the Jewish Customs and Traditions exhibition.QE‑7, U Starého hřbitova 3a, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 749 211, www. jewishmuseum.cz/en/explore/sites/ceremonial-hall.

JUBILEE SYNAGOGUE (JERUSALEM SYNAGOGUE) (JUBILEJNÍ SYNAGOGA (JERUZALÉMSKÁ SYNAGOGA)) The newest, biggest, and arguably most spectacular of Prague’s synagogues, the Jubilee Synagogue is so called because it was decided upon on the 50th anniversary of the accession of Franz Joseph I. Built in pseudo-Moorish style and dedicated on 16 Sept 1906 during the festival of prague.inyourpocket.com

Jewish Prague Simhat Torah, the synagogue has a service on Sat at 09:00 and is open to visitors from 23 Apr - 31 Oct from 13:00 17:00 (except Saturdays and Jewish festival days).QH‑9, Jeruzalémská 1310/7, MStaromětská, tel. (+ 420) 222 31 90 02, www.synagogue.cz/jerusalem-synagoguepage. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Open only from April to October. Closed on Saturdays and Jewish holidays.

KLAUSEN SYNAGOGUE (KLAUSOVÁ SYNAGOGA) The largest synagogue in the Jewish Quarter, Klausen was built in 1694 in an early baroque style. Today, there is the first part of the Jewish Museum’s Jewish Customs and Traditions permanent exhibition. The exhibit continues next door in the Ceremonial Hall.QE‑7, U Starého hřbitova 3A, MStaromětská, tel. (+ 420) 222 749 211, www.jewishmuseum.cz/en.

MAISEL SYNAGOGUE (MAISELOVA SYNAGOGA) The Maisel Synagogue boasts a unique three nave layout.

Their permanent exhibition, Jews in the Bohemian Lands, 10th-18th Century, is definitely worth a visit.

The synagogue sometimes hosts concerts and theatrical performances, check the Jewish Museum website for details.QF‑7, Maiselova 10, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 749 211, www.jewishmuseum.cz/en.

OLD JEWISH CEMETERY (STARÝ ŽIDOVSKÝ HŘBITOV) From the 14th century until 1747, this was the final resting place for Prague’s Jewish community; some 12,000 graves are said to be piled one on top of the other. Oldest and most famous is that of Rabbi Loew, which is the grave with the most pebbles piled on top of it - a Jewish tradition. To visit the cemetery, men will have to cover their heads; kippas are provided at the entrance.QE‑7, Praha 1, Široká 2, (entrance from Pinkas Synagogue), MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 749 211, www. jewishmuseum.cz/en.

OLD NEW SYNAGOGUE (STARONOVÁ SYNAGOGA) Of all the synagogues in Prague, this is perhaps the most important. It has stood here since the 13th century, and despite fires, floods and the Nazi occupation, remains today the functional, spiritual centre of the Jewish community. It’s remains one of Prague’s oldest preserved gothic buildings.

QE‑7, Červená 2, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 749 211, www.jewishmuseum.cz. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Closed Sat, Open 09:00-18:00 (April-October). Closed on Saturdays and Jewish holidays. Admission 200/140Kč.

Children under 6 free.

PINKAS SYNAGOGUE (PINKASOVA SYNAGOGA) In 1955-60, the Pinkas Synagogue was turned into a memorial to the Jewish victims of the Shoah from Bohemia and Moravia, one of the earliest memorials of its kind in Europe. The memorial was permanently closed following facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

JEWISH MUSEUM JEWISH MUSEUM (ŽIDOVSKÉ MUZEUM) The starting point for an exploration of Prague’s Jewish past and present. The Jewish Museum supervises seven sites in total: the Old Jewish Cemetery, the Ceremonial Hall, the Pinkas, Klausen, Maisel and Spanish Synagogues and the Robert Guttmann Gallery. There are a couple ticket options depending on which sites you’d like to visit. It isn’t cheap, but the tickets are good for seven days. Go early to avoid the crowds. The Museum is closed Saturdays and Jewish holidays. While most Jewish quarters in the region were destroyed in World War II, Prague got ‘lucky’ in that the main buildings and cemetery in the Jewish Quarter are still intact. Hitler had intended to transform the quarter into an epitaph to a vanished culture.

QE‑7, Maiselova 38/15, tel. (+ 420) 222 317 191/ (+420) 222 749 211, www.jewishmuseum.cz/en.

Open 09:00-18:00 (March 27-October 28). Open 09:00-16:30 (October 30-March 25). Closed on Saturdays and Jewish holidays. The Jewish Museum in Prague ticket includes the Maisel Synagogue, Pinkas Synagogue, Old Jewish Cemetery, Klausen Synagogue, Ceremonial Hall, Spanish Synagogue and temporary exhibitions in the Robert Guttmann Gallery. Admission 300Kč/200Kč, Children under 6 free. Y­A the 1968 Soviet invasion and not reopened until 1995. The synagogue’s walls are chillingly covered with the names of 77,297 Jewish Holocaust victims from the area. There is also a permanent exhibition of children’s drawings from Terezin concentration camp, drawn between 1942 and 1944.

QE‑7, Praha 1, Široká 3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 749 211, www.jewishmuseum.cz/en.

SPANISH SYNAGOGUE (ŠPANĚLSKÁ SYNAGOGA) This neo-Moorish structure was built in 1868 to replace the previously demolished Old Synagogue. It is a beautiful building outside and in, with a domed ceiling, Islamic motifs and stained glass. Restored in 1998, the synagogue houses an exhibition on the history of Czech Jews. On the upper floor is a display of silver artefacts from the museum’s collection.QF‑7, Dušní 12, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 749 211, www.jewishmuseum.cz/en. ŽIŽKOV JEWISH CEMETERY Only a peaceful small corner remains of this Jewish cemetery at the foot of the TV tower. Originally a plague cemetery established well away from the city limits in 1680, 40,000 people were buried here until 1890. Baroque, Empire and Romantic style tombstones survived the ages.

QJ‑9, Fibichova, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+ 420) 222 749 464, www.kehilaprag.cz. Open 11:00 - 15:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun and on Jewish holidays. Admission 50 Kč.

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The National Museum

The New Building of the National Museum

Prague’s National Museum (Národní Muzeum) is one of the city’s most well-known landmarks being as it sits lording over Wenceslas Square. While that is what’s known as the ‘main building,’ the National Museum itself actually manages ten other museums in Prague and five more in other Czech cities. Seeing as the main building closed down in 2011 for a massive reconstruction and isn’t scheduled to open again until 2018, you may be interested in visiting one of these other locations.

But first a bit of history. The National Museum was established as a “national museum” on 15 April 1818 by a ceremonial declaration of the aristocracy. Šternberg Palace in Hradčany became the museum’s first home; its second was on Na Příkopě. As the collections grew, so did demands for a suitable building to be built. Space was requested in 1864 in Karlovo naměstí but Prague City Council didn’t like this plan and eventually provided the current space on Wenceslas Square. In November 1883, a programme that defined the purposes and significant features of the planned building was approved. The building officially opened in May 1891. Exhibition areas were created for the Natural History collections, the Cultural and Social History collections and a Library. In 1904 though, the museum’s head was already complaining about a lack of space, a problem finally being rectified in this next century.

The National Museum’s main building is home to its natural history, geology, palaeontology, archaeology and prehistory collections. Right next door is the National Museum’s New Building. Exhibitions cover a wide variety of aspects of Czech history, and they typically have good interactive elements for children. Czech folk culture is explored in the charming Kinsky Folly building home to 46 Prague In Your Pocket

the Ethnographical Museum. More recent Czech history, specifically covering the decades Czechoslovakia existed, is examined in an excellent exhibition at the National Memorial on Vítkov Hill.

For those with an interest in Asian, African and American cultures, head over to the Náprstek Museum.

Focused solely on non-European culture, the museum got its start after founder Vojta Náprstek, inspired by his time spent as a political refugee in the United States, returned home to create a museum for Czechs. The initial collections contained ethnographic and artistic artefacts brought by Náprstek’s friends and other travellers from around the world. For those with an interest in sculpture, head out to the Lapidárium in Prague 7, home to some of the best in Bohemian stone carvings through the 19th century.

In the land of Smetana, Dvořák and Martinů one would expect a Music Museum. The Czech Museum of Music is located in a former Baroque church and its permanent exhibition focuses on the musical instrument, both as an art form and a link between humans and music. The institution also runs two museums dedicated to individual composers, the Bedřich Smetana Museum located in Old Town near the Vltava River and the Antonín Dvořák Museum housed in a beautiful baroque villa in Prague 2.

Finally, the museum manages two smaller, more specific sites. The Jaroslav Ježek Memorial is a room in a private flat furnished in the functionalist style. Part of the memorial includes the books and records of Ježek, a Czech composer and pianist. The František Palacký and František Ladislav Rieger Memorial is a remarkable 19th century collection of art, furnishings and family portraits from an aristocratic family. prague.inyourpocket.com

The National Museum ANTONÍN DVOŘÁK MUSEUM Housed in a gorgeous baroque villa, the Antonín Dvořák Museum is worth the price of admission to glimpse the mythological frescoes inside and the wonderful Matyáš Bernard Braun sculptures in the garden. Dvořák fans will appreciate the collection of his autographs and correspondence, period photographs and other documentary materials.QG‑11, Ke Karlovu 20, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. (+ 420) 224 923 363/(+420) 224 918 013, www.nm.cz/Hlavni-strana/Visit-Us/Antonin-DvorakMuseum.html. Open 10:00 - 13:30 and 14:00 - 17:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 50 Kč/30 Kč. Children under 6 free. Family ticket (max. 2 adults, 3 children) 90 Kč.

Guided tour in English or German (up to 30 people) 500 Kč (tours by prior arrangement only).

CZECH MUSEUM OF MUSIC Of course a musically inclined country would have a music museum, and this one is a beauty. The permanent exhibition, called Man-Instrument-Music, focuses on musical instruments and their link with human culture.

Stringed instruments play a big role, with both examples from famed French and Italian musicians on display as well as a special room devoted to the Prague violin-making school. Woodwinds, brass and percussion all get their due acknowledgment. Headphones throughout allow visitors to truly immerse themselves in the music. The museum building is a former 17th century baroque church.QC‑8, Karmelitská 2/4, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 257 777, www.nm.cz/Hlavni-strana/Visit-Us/CzechMuseum-of-Music.html. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 120/80 Kč. Children under 6 free. Family ticket (max. 2 adults and 3 children) 200 Kč. Guided Tour 600 Kč.

LAPIDARIUM A superb permanent exhibition of stone sculpture in the Czech lands from 11th to 19th century. That sounds like it could be dull, but for sculpture fans it’s a really interesting deep dive into the history of the art form. Many important pieces from across Prague have found themselves here, including some of the original statues from Charles Bridge.

QG‑3, Výstaviště 422, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+ 420) 70 20 13 372/(+420) 724 412 257, www.nm.cz/Hlavnistrana/Visit-Us/Lapidarium-Lapidary-Exhibition-ofStone-Monuments.html. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Wed 10.00 - 16.00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 50/30Kč. Y­G NÁPRSTKOVO MUSEUM The museum of Asian, African and American cultures collected by philanthropist Vojta Náprstek. The museum’s roving exhibitions are usually small, but interesting.

The bright feather head-dresses from South America are definitely worth a look.QE‑9, Betlémské nám. 1, MNárodní třída, tel. (+ 420) 224 497 501/(+420) 224 497 500, www.nm.cz/Hlavni-strana/Visit-Us/NaprstekMuseum-of-Asian-African-and-American-Cultures. html. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100/70 Kč. Children under 6 free. Family ticket (max. 2 adults and 3 children) 170 Kč. facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

NATIONAL MEMORIAL ON VÍTKOV HILL (NÁRODNÍ PAMÁTNÍK) For a deep dive into the history of Czechoslovakia, check out this well-done permanent exhibition housed in a complex which includes a Ceremonial Hall, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the facilities of the Klement Gottwald Mausoleum, additional exhibition halls which host temporary shows, a fabulous viewing terrace and a lovely cafe. The building itself is a marble wonder, filled with representative sculptures and mosaics from the First Republic. The exhibition highlights the most important milestones in Czechoslovakia’s relatively short history: the founding of the Czechoslovak Republic in 1918; the period surrounding the Munich Agreement in 1938 and the dissolution of Czechoslovakia in 1939; the re-establishment of Czechoslovakia in 1945 and the communist coup d’état three years later; the establishment of the Czechoslovak federation in 1968 and finally the fall of communism in 1989.

The building was originally designed as a memorial to World War I Czechoslovak legions, and then taken over as the resting place for the great and the not very good Communists. Gottwald, for example, was pickled in slivovice and put on display here. Unfortunately the preservation was not wholly successful and the body started to putrefy from the feet up, shocking the odd visiting school party as their national hero literally started to fall apart before their very eyes. His body was returned to his family in 1990 and later buried in the cemetery in Olšanské.

Elsewhere on the hilltop you’ll find one of the largest equestrian statues in the world. The 16.5 ton statue commemorates the Hussite hero, Jan Žižka.QJ‑8, U památníku 1900, MFlorenc, tel. (+ 420) 224 49 76 07/ (+420) 222 78 16 76, www.nm.cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon, Tue (Apr – Oct). Open 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed (Nov – Mar).

NATIONAL MUSEUM (NEW BUILDING) Overlook the uninspired name of this building and pay a visit to discover different aspects of ‘older’ Czech and natural history. The museum does excellent kid-friendly exhibitions too. The building itself can be considered an eyesore – before its role as a museum, it was originally the Prague Stock Exchange (1938 to the arrival of occupational forces), then Parliament (1946-1992) and finally from 19952009, the headquarters of Radio Free Europe.QH‑10, Vinohradská 1, MMuzeum, tel. (+ 420) 224 497 111/ (+420) 224 497 118, www.nm.cz/Hlavni-strana/VisitUs/National-Museum-New-Building.html. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 09:00 - 18:00, Every first Wednesday of the month: 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 180/120 Kč. Children under 6 free. Family ticket (max. 2 adults and 3 children) 300 Kč.

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Kafka’s Prague

Franz Kafka’s massive steel rotating head

Franz Kafka (1883-1924) is one of Czech’s most famous writers although, possibly because he wrote in German, his fame didn’t become apparent locally until after the fall of communism in 1989. His work was banned during World War II and the communist regime didn’t exactly embrace the themes he wrote about. So while Prague had a deep effect on Kafka, the writer’s influence on the city doesn’t amount to much. He is, however, a world-famous existential writer and philosopher and did indeed leave many footprints across Prague.

Kafka was born into a Jewish family on July 3, 1883 at (E-3) U radnice 5, a house on the corner of Maiselova and Kaprova - a border between Staré Město and Josefov. There is a plaque on the building now and a small exhibition inside the house. Prague at that time was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and German was Kafka’s first language, despite his Jewish roots and Czech background. As a boy Kafka lived in the (E-3) Minute House (Dům U Minuty), the black and white graffitioed building that is part of the Town Hall on Staromětské nám. For some time he lived in an apartment, by all accounts a pretty substandard place, within the building that now houses the American embassy over in the (A-2) Schornbornsky palac at Tržistì 15. He also lived for a time in another street off (E-3) Staromětské nám, Týnska 3 .

Kafka went to school in a German language gymnasium in the (E-3) Goltz-Kinský Palace. He studied law but ended up working at an insurance agency while all the time just wanting to write. Kafka’s favourite sister, 48 Prague In Your Pocket

Ottla, lived at (B-1) Golden Lane 22 (Zlatá ulička) and he is reported to have written his short stories in her front room. Ottla was later shipped to the Terezín concentration camp in north western Bohemia from where in 1943 she volunteered to accompany a trainload of children to a destination which later turned out to be Auschwitz. Franz was the Kafka’s family only surviving boy, two other sons dying in infancy. Franz’s other two sisters also died in concentration camps.

Kafka had a difficult relationship with his father, a successful businessman, who was reported to have a strong temper and didn’t understand or appreciate his son’s creative side nor desire to write. This relationship seems to be reflected in many of Kafka’s stories, which often see the main character fighting against some sort of strong, overbearing personality.

Kafka worked for the Worker’s Accident Insurance Company (G-7, Na Poříčí 7) on what is now one of Prague’s high streets. The building today is the Hotel Century Old Town. Another hotel connected to his work is the former Grand Hotel Evropa on Wenceslas Square.

One of his first public readings was held here (then called Hotel Erzherzog Stefan) in 1912. He read from The Judgement. In 1923, he made the big decision to move to Berlin so he could focus on his writing. It was there that the tuberculosis he had struggled with for years returned. He had first caught the disease in 1917 and when it returned in 1923, he was forced to retire from the insurance company. He travelled to Vienna for treatment in a sanatorium and it was there he died on June 3, 1924. prague.inyourpocket.com

Kafka’s Prague Like many a struggling artist, Kafka was not appreciated until after his death. Most of his work was published posthumously by his good friend and literary executor Max Brod, who plays a large role in why we even know who Kafka is today. Stories published before his death include the popular ‘The Metamorphosis,’ ‘Before the Law’ and ‘The Judgement’ along with a few collections like ‘Mediation’ and ‘A Hunger Artist.’ His self-doubt though led him to struggle with his writing and publishing and he begged Brod to destroy any unpublished manuscripts after his death. Brod did not follow these instructions and instead went on to publish Kafka’s ‘The Trial,’ ‘The Castle’ and ‘Amerika,’ among others.

Kafka’s writing had a great effect on German literature and his popularity there was much greater than in his home town. In Eastern European countries living under Communism however, Kafka became a popular underground read, as citizens could identify with the heavy-handedness of bureaucracy and faceless organisations.

Aficionados can make a pilgrimage to his grave, at the New Jewish Cemetery (Židovské hřbitovy; Želivského metro) where he is buried next to his parents. Kafka’s grave is N°137. There are typically a few fans visiting his grave to commemorate the date of his death.

A bronze sculpture was unveiled in December 2003 in honour of Kafka. It is located next to the Spanish Synagogue (E-2) in Josefov. However, there’s a more monumental (literally) monument to the writer in Prague. Located behind the Tesco department store at Národní 26, it’s a huge reflecting, rotating Kafka head.

Designed by local artist David Černý, it’s nearly 40 feet tall and made up of just over 40 moving chrome plated layers.

T​he Kafka Museum opened in 2005 and offers an in-depth look at Kafka’s connection to the city. The museum presents Prague as a city full of the strange tales that were influential on Kafka’s work. If you are determined to make your trip to Prague completely Kafkaesque, book a bed at the Hostel Franz Kafka and pop in for a coffee at the Franz Kafka Café. Cafes in Kafka’s times were the place for intellectuals to meet, and one of the writer’s favourite haunts was Café Louvre, a probably much better café choice than the one that bears his name.

FRANZ KAFKA MONUMENT This untraditional bronze sculpture sits in front of the Spanish Synagogue in the Josef Quarter. Designed by Jaroslav Róna, the sculptor was apparently inspired by Kafka’s story Description of a Struggle. The creation of the statue was initiated by the Franz Kafka Society and the 37 metre tall piece was unveiled in 2003.QF‑7, Dušní 12, MStaroměstská. facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

FRANZ KAFKA MONUMENT This is the second of two tributes to Kafka and this one is more monumental (literally). .It’s basically a massive stainless steel rotating Franz Kafka head. Designed by Czech artist David Černý, the 10 metre reflecting head can be found lurking behind the Tesco department store and Quadrio shopping centre in the New Town. Unveiled in 2014, it weighs 45 tons and moves at a speed of six RPM. QNárodní 26, MNárodní třída.

KAFKA MUSEUM A recommended first stop for anyone looking to explore writer Franz Kafka’s connection to Prague, this museum in Malá Strana showcases his life and work in the Czech city. The first section explores how Prague effected Kafka, giving rise to him referring to the city as a “dear little mother with claws,” a phrase still used to describe the city today. The second section looks at how Kafka transformed Prague in his stories, in both a metaphorical and allegorical way.QD‑8, Hergetova Cihelna 2b, tel. (+ 420) 257 53 55 07/+420 257 535 373, www. kafkamuseum.cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 200/120Kč. Family ticket (2 Adults, 2 Children) 540Kč.

Guided tours 500Kč.

KAFKA’S BIRTHPLACE Franz Kafka was here on July 3, 1883 a point which sits just on the border between Staré Město and Josefov.

Today you’ll find a plaque on the building now and a small exhibition inside..QE‑2, U radnice 5.

MINUTE HOUSE (DŮM U MINUTY) If you tear your eyes away from the Astronomical Clock on Old Town Square, you’ll notice a richly sgraffito building to your left. The Minute House, (as in small amount, not unit of time) so called because it used to be a tobacco shop, is a great example of Czech renaissance architecture with the façade’s design drawing from both biblical and mythological sources, as well as contemporary renaissance legends. The structure is more impressive for literary fans as Franz Kafka lived here with his parents from 1889 to 1896. The building is part of the Old Town Hall complex and is not open to the public.QE‑2, Staromětské nám.

NEW JEWISH CEMETERY (ŽIDOVSKÉ HŘBITOVY) Much larger and much less visited than the Old Town Cemetery. Founded in 1890, it has some impressive graves from the early 1900s. Franz Kafka is buried at grave N°137.QVinohradská, MŽelivského, tel. (+ 420) 272 74 18 93, www.synagogue.cz/new-jewish-cemeterypage/. Open Sun-Thu 09:00 - 17:00 (09:00 - 16:00 Nov - Mar), Friday 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Saturday and Jewish holidays.

Full contents online: prague.inyourpocket.com Summer 2016

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Kutná Hora

An hour from Prague is the beautiful town of Kutná Hora

For those looking for an interesting day trip from Prague, Kutná Hora is one of your best options. The city was a regional powerhouse back in the Middle Ages thanks to its silver mines. Today, Kutná Hora boasts a rich tapestry of architectural styles and unique buildings from different historical periods, including two cathedrals, two Romanesque churches, five Gothic and two Baroque churches, three large monastic buildings, two Gothic chapels and if you need more, a number of burgher houses and stone sculptural works.

The historic centre of Kutná Hora with the Cathedral of St. Barbara and the Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady in Sedlec are listed on the UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage List. In addition, there are three national cultural heritage monuments – the former mint Italian Court, Kačina Chateau and the Church of St. James in the village of the same name – not to be confused with the Church of St. James in Kutná Hora proper.

Besides the history and architecture, Kutná Hora has a lively events calendar including concerts, music festivals, exhibitions, festivals and sporting events. Outside of town, there are spots for climbing along the Vrchlice stream, horseback riding is also popular and a good network of hiking and biking trails which lead to other sites of interest including Velky Pond, Kačina Chateau, the ruins of Sion Castle and the Vysoká viewing tower near the village of Miskovice.

50 Prague In Your Pocket

RESTAURANTS BARBORA RESTAURANT AND BED & BREAKFAST International and Czech cuisine with a beautiful view, Barbora is located next to its namesake Cathedral and offers a light menu full of thoughtful cooking. The interiors are lovely but your eyes will most likely be focused outside. The summer patio is even better. Stop by at least for a coffee or glass of wine.QKremnická 909, tel. (+ 420) 327 316 327/+420 725 701 540, www.penzionbarbora.cz. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. G DAČICKÝ - OLD BOHEMIAN TAVERN AND RESTAURANT Old Bohemian dining at its best, Dačický is dark and rough with long wood tables and lots of décor inspired by medieval days. A menu to match, expect lots of meat but creatively done. The potato soup with wild mushrooms and roast duck with cabbage and dumplings are two Czech specialties not to miss. Order the King’s Sword for a selection of meat brought to you really on a sword.QRakova 8, tel. (+ 420) 327 512 248/+420 603 434 367, www.dacicky. com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.

V RUTHARDCE Light and bright with a log cabin feel, the attraction of V Ruthardce is the beautiful outdoor garden space in which to eat, drink and relax. A long list of pork and chicken items, they also include some for vegetarians and a children’s menu.QDačického nám. 15, tel. (+ 420) 739 013 510/+420 607 286 298, www.v-ruthardce.cz. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. T­6­B prague.inyourpocket.com

Kutná Hora CHURCHES CATHEDRAL OF THE ASSUMPTION OF OUR LADY AND ST JOHN THE BAPTIST AT SEDLEC Across the street from the Ossuary you’ll find another UNESCO listed cathedral, the Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady and St John the Baptist. Completed in 1320, it was in ruins for almost 300 years after it was plundered by the Hussites in 1421. It got a baroque-gothic facelift in 1709 from builder Jan Blažej Santini-Aichel who tastefully preserved its original gothic atmosphere. Unusual features Santini added are the self-supporting vault and the selfsupporting staircase. In the cathedral’s so-called “inner circle” an animated film about the cathedral’s history is screened and you’ll also view the treasury which includes the Sedlec monstrance, one of the oldest gothic monstrances in the world.QZámecká 279, Kutná Hora Sedlec, tel. (+ 420) 326 551 049, www.sedlec.info. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00 (Apr-Oct). 10:00 - 16:00.

Sun 11:00 - 16:00 (Nov-Mar). Admission 50/30Kč.

CHURCH OF ST. JAMES The defining point of Kutná Hora’s skyline, St. James was finished in 1336 and was the region’s first stone church.

Its tower is 86 metres tall. Interesting pieces remain throughout the church’s interior including gothic choir benches from the 1480s and the Holy Trinity painting from 1734 and the painting of the Beheading of St. Jacob from 1752. Most of the items seen today though date back to the end of the 17th century. The church also boasts two organs– a rare baroque gem from the end of the 17th century and the largest organ in Kutná Hora from the turn of the 20th century.QJakubská, Kutná Hora-Vnitřní město, tel. (+ 420) 327 515 796, www.khfarnost.cz.

Open 10:00 - 12:30, 13:00 - 17:00 (Jun-Sept only).

ST. BARBARA’S CATHEDRAL Kutná Hora’s mining wealth gave rise to the beautiful St. Barbara’s Cathedral, named after the patron saint of miners.

A miner’s chapel dedicated to Barbara first stood on this rocky point around 1300. Building of the cathedral began in

TOURIST INFORMATION KUTNÁ HORA INFORMATION CENTRE QPalackého náměstí 377, Kutná Hora, tel. (+ 420) 327 512 378/(+420) 731 801 004, www.destinace. kutnahora.cz. Open Mon-Sun 09:00 - 18:00 (AprSep). Mon-Fri 09:00 - 17:00, Sat-Sun 10:00 - 16:00 (Oct-Mar).

KUTNÁ HORA INFORMATION CENTRE (MAIN TRAIN STATION) QK Nádraží St. 2, Kutná Hora - Sedlec, tel. (+ 420) 605 802 874, www.destinace.kutnahora.cz. Open Mon-Sun 09:00 - 18:00 (Apr-Sept). Mon-Sun 09:00 17:00 (Oct-Mar). facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

GETTING TO KUTNÁ HORA ARRIVING BY CAR From Prague, Kutná Hora is about 85 kilometres, travelling on the D11 highway in the direction of Hradec Králové. Near Poděbrady you’ll want to change to Route 38 towards Kolín. Look for signs for Route 2 into Kutná Hora. There isn’t much parking in the city centre, the nearest place is Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí).

ARRIVING BY TRAIN Trains from Prague’s main train station run to Kutná Hora hlavní nádraží roughly every hour. Some are direct (about 50 minutes) and some are not (about 60 minutes). The indirect ones require a change in the town of Kolín. Schedules can be checked online at www.idos.cz.

The train station is about 2 kilometres from the actual town of Kutná Hora, in the suburb of Sedlec, which is conveniently where the famed Sedlec Ossuary (Bone Church) is located. There is a tourist information centre located in the train station to pick up a map and get any questions answered.

The train station is about a 10 minute walk (there are posted signs) to the Ossuary and then the town of Kutná Hora proper is another 2 kilometres from there. A tourist bus runs between the Ossuary and St. Barbara’s Cathedral in Kutná Hora. It runs whenever there are three people waiting. Check with the Sedlec Information Centre for details.

Alternatively, you can get on another train at Kutná Hora hlavní nádraží and go to the station Kutná Hora-Sedlec, which is across the street from the Ossuary. The train, which you can take into Kutná Hora proper as well, runs about once an hour. The Kutná Hora-Sedlec station is a request stop which means you will need to push the call button in order for the train to stop at the station. There is no tourist information centre in this train station, but there is one in Sedlec.

KUTNÁ HORA MAIN RAILWAY STATION (KUTNÁ HORA HLAVNÍ NÁDRAŽÍ) The Kutná Hora main train station is actually located in Sedlec, convenient for visiting the Ossuary from Prague. The actual town of Kutná Hora is about 2.5 kilometres away and is an easy walk. There is a tourist bus that runs between the Ossuary and St. Barbara’s Cathedral. It runs whenever there are three people waiting. Check with the Sedlec Information Centre for details.QK Nádraží 2, tel. (+ 420) 840 112 113, www.cd.cz.

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Kutná Hora KOSTNICE CEMETERY CHURCH OF ALL SAINTS WITH OSSUARY AT SEDLEC The bone church (Kostnice). You may never have heard of Kutná Hora, most probably never of Sedlec, but stories about the Czech Republic’s famed bone church are everywhere. And most people, when they say they are going to Kutná Hora, are actually planning a visit to the bone church.

Officially called the Cemetery Church of All Saints with Ossuary, it really is a fascinating place. Located in an underground chapel of the church, it was part of the Sedlec monastery. The church was built in the 14th century, and according to legend, one of the local abbots brought soil from Jerusalem and scattered it around the cemetery making it the oldest so-called “holy field” in Central Europe. After the plague in 1318, around 30,000 bodies were buried here and 10,000 more courtesy of the Hussite wars. The cemetery was abolished at the end of the 15th century and the exhumed bones were placed inside the church. Hence the beginning of our story in which a half-blind monk arranged them into a pyramid in 1511. The present bone arrangement dates from 1870 and is the work of a Czech woodcarver, František Rint – look for his name, signed in bones of course, on the right-hand wall over the last bench. The largest collections of bones are arranged in the form of bells in the four corners of the chapel while one of Rint’s most interesting creations is the chandelier in the centre of the nave which contains all the bones of the human body. The ossuary contains the remains of about 40,000 people.QZámecká 279, Kutná Hora-Sedlec, tel. (+ 420) 326 551 049, www. kostnice.cz. Open 08:00-18:00, Sun 09:00-18:00 (Apr–Sept); 09:00-17:00 (Mar, Oct); 09:00-16:00 (Nov-Dec). Admission 90/60Kč.

52 Prague In Your Pocket

© R. B. Maniscalchi

1388 but disruptions of various kinds over the years meant the construction wasn’t actually completed until 1905. Its baroque touches come courtesy of the Jesuits who took over in the early 1600s and did a bit of redecorating.

Entering the soaring space note the 20 tall pillars dividing the church and the illumination from 50 large windows.

The stained glass windows were designed by František Urban and installed at the beginning of the 20th century.

The main altar is a neo-gothic five-wing altarpiece with a relief depicting the Last Supper. It was actually created in 1905 based on descriptions from the original late gothic altarpiece from 1502 which was removed by the Jesuits and not preserved.

The Cathedral of St. Barbara is a masterpiece of late Bohemian gothic. It’s both a national cultural monument and a UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage Site.QBarborská, Kutná Hora, tel. (+ 420) 775 363 938/+420 327 515 796, fax +420 327 512 115, www.khfarnost.cz. Open 10:00 - 16:00 (JanFeb), 10:00 - 17:00 (Mar, Nov, Dec), 09:00 - 18:00 (Apr-Oct).

Admission 60/40Kč.

MUSEUMS CZECH MUSEUM OF SILVER - HRÁDEK Get acquainted with the historic richness of Kutná Hora with a visit to its Silver Museum. Go deeper, literally, by touring a medieval mine. There are two tours on offer; Tour 1 delves into the geology and archaeology of the region dating back to the first medieval settlement and then chronicles life in the royal town when the silver mines were active. For a little more interactive fun, take Tour 2 which brings you through a 250 metre mining tunnel to see a replica medieval mine and learn the process of turning ore into coins.

The building the Silver Museum is in was originally a castle dating back to 1312. At the end of the 15th century it was transformed into a luxurious residence by a wealthy local who unfortunately ran up a lot of debts and was forced to sell it to Jan Smíšek who invested even more into doing the place up. Rumour has it, the reason for his wealth was that he was secretly melting silver on the premises thereby stealing from the crown and becoming rich enough to maintain and refine his residence.QBarborská 28, Kutná Hora-Vnitřní Město, tel. (+ 420) 327 512 159, www. cms-kh.cz. Open 09.00 - 17.00 (Apr, Oct). 09.00 - 18.00 (May, Jun, Sept). 10.00 - 18.00 (July-Aug). 10.00 - 16.00 (Nov-March). Closed Mon. Admission 70/40Kč. Foreign language guide 20Kč.

GASK – GALLERY OF CENTRAL BOHEMIA A surprise for art lovers is lurking in one of the building of the former Jesuit College. GASK focuses mainly on Czech art of the 20th and 21st centuries, taking a special interest in young artists who work not only with traditional media but also utilize experimental techniques. A nod to Czech design is included in their Whitebox exhibition space.

GASK’s permanent exhibition, States of Mind/Beyond the Image uses pieces from GASK’s collection arranged in such a way as to examine a person’s emotional and mental life.

Temporary exhibitions also cover two floors of the building. prague.inyourpocket.com

Kutná Hora Built by Baroque architect Domenico Orsi between 1667 and 1703, the austere space was meant to appeal to the Jesuit Order, with only the front façade slipping in a little Italian baroque decoration. The College was used for military purposes after the Jesuits left and then GASK opened here in 2009.QBarborská 24, Kutná Hora, tel. (+ 420) 725 377 433, www.gask.cz. Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 80/40Kč. Family ticket 120Kč.

MONUMENTS PLAGUE COLUMN (MOROVÝ SLOUP) The Baroque jewel of Kutná Hora, the city’s plague column was built in 1715. A memorial to the thousands of victims killed during the plague that struck the town in 1713, the work is decorated with mining motifs and at the top is a statute of the Immaculate Virgin Mary.QSultysova.

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy

PLACES OF INTEREST ITALIAN COURT This was where the money was. For centuries, the Italian Court was the centre of the country’s economic power boasting both the royal mint and home to the king when he came visiting the silver mines. The beginning of the Italian Court is believed to be at the end of the 13th century, when it served as the town castle. During the 14th century, the castle was gradually rebuilt into a mint.

However, the greatest boom in construction activities did not take place until the end of the 14th century under the reign of King Wenceslas IV. Visitors today can visit a permanent exhibition called The Royal Mint, all about money, as well as check out some of the more interesting parts of the building’s interior like the royal chapel and reception hall. Finally, for those looking for a bit of criminal enlightenment, housed here also is the Museum – Unveiling the Mysterious Face of Kutná Hora.

Located in the cellar it offers guests details about medieval Kutná Hora criminal cases. The building is also home to the Town Hall.QHavlíčkovo náměstí 552, Kutná Hora, tel. (+ 420) 327 512 873/(+420) 736 485 409, www. guideskutnahora.com. Open 10:00 - 17:00 (March, Oct). 09:00 - 18:00 (April-Sept). 10:00 - 16:00 (Nov-Feb).

Admission 70/50Kč. Children up to 6 years free.

STONE HOUSE A striking structure to behold while walking down Radnická, the Stone House’s current style dates back to around the 1480s when it belonged to the town’s highest ranking mining official who decided to do his pad up right.

It’s a good example of Czech gothic architecture. Today the building is owned by the Czech Museum of Silver and hosts a permanent exhibition on 17th-19th century burgher lifestyle and a lapidary of sculptures and monuments from around the city.QVáclavské Square 183, tel. (+ 420) 327 512 821, www.cms-kh.cz. Open 09:00 - 17:00 (Apr, Oct); 09:00 - 18:00 (May, June, Sept); 10:00 - 18:00 (July, Aug); 10:00 - 16:00 (Nov). Closed Monday. facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

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prague.inyourpocket.com Summer 2016

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Olomouc

Olomouc is a must-see on any tour of the Czech Republic

For those looking to escape the crowds of Prague, Olomouc, a roughly 2 hour train ride from the capital, should capture your heart. The pretty university town is small enough to be charming, yet interesting enough for at least a weekend.

Located in Moravia, there’s a plethora of architecture and history.

Olomouc is the fifth largest city in the Czech Republic with a population of about 100,000. It is home to the country’s second oldest university (after Charles University in Prague) which means its culture scene is alive and there’s a variety of dining and entertainment options available. To get a feel for the city, start your day on the main square, Horní náměstí. There you will find the UNESCO listed Holy Trinity Column. It is the largest collection of Baroque statues within the framework of one sculpture group in Central Europe. The lower part contains a chapel, which can be visited seasonally, April-September. The column is made up of 18 statues, 12 torchbearers, 6 reliefs, a sculptural group of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and finally at the top, the Holy Trinity. Also on Horní náměstí is an Astronomical Clock – we told you a visit would be like Prague! This clock is quite different from the one that draws massive crowds to Old Town Square. The timepiece dates back to the end of the 15th century, however the form it takes here is much different than what the original planners had designed.

During World War II, the clock was so damaged in the fighting that City Hall decided not to reconstruct it, but instead design something modern. What you’ll see now is a 1950s work depicting Communist era proletariat, like builders, agricultural workers and other labourers. The clock performs once a day, at noon, for about five minutes.

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There are a number of interesting museums in Olomouc – something for nearly everyone. The beautiful Archdiocesan Museum, located on Václavské náměstí, is home to a permanent exhibition of the Olomouc Archdiocese, a picture gallery featuring paintings dating back to the 16th century, and the Mozarteum, a great hall commemorating the famous composer’s stay in Olomouc. The city is rich in religious history.

Besides the Archdiocesan Museum and the Holy Trinity Column, visitors can also marvel at St. Maurice’s Church, the biggest Gothic church in the region, dating from the 15-16th centuries and the oldest Moravian monastery, the Archbishop’s Palace located in the Olomouc suburb of Hradisko. The most significant sacred building in Olomouc is the Bishop’s Cathedral of St. Wenceslas, built in 1109.

TOURIST INFORMATION INFORMATION CENTRE Located on Horní náměstí in the archway of the Town Hall they can assist with accommodation, information on what to see, restaurant recommendations and more. You can book guided theme tours here or rent an audio guide and do it yourself. They also have a free multimedia guide to download – Olina. Their website is very informative as well for pre-trip planning.QHorní náměstí, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 51 33 85/(+420) 585 51 33 92, www.tourism.olomouc.eu. Open 09:00 - 19:00. prague.inyourpocket.com

Olomouc If you have a couple extra days, explore the lovely Moravian countryside outside of Olomouc. The city is a great place to base yourself while discovering the beautiful towns and tasty Moravian wine in the eastern part of the county.

Litomyšl and Kroměříž are two charming towns that will keep you busy for an entire day.

RESTAURANTS KONVIKT Located in the university, Konvikt offers a modern space, relaxed setting and a great garden. Creative dishes include chicken ratatouille with ricotta and pesto and a salad with avocado and gorgonzola.QUniverzitní 3, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 731 81 58 01, www.konviktrestaurant.cz. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. MORAVSKÁ RESTAURACE OLOMOUC For a fine dining evening, visit Moravska for their traditional Moravian food, as well as international specialties.

Their fortes include Moravian sparrow (actually slices of pork) with cabbage and potato dumplings and a very hearty goulash with both beef and sausage.QHorní náměstí 23, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 22 28 68, www. moravskarestaurace.cz. Open 11:30 - 23:00.

CHURCHES CHAPEL OF ST JOHN SARKANDER The Neo-baroque chapel of St John Sarkander is a twostoreyed building crowned with a dome with a lantern opening. In the middle of the chapel, there is a circular opening into the basement, where a torture rack from Sarkander’s time has been situated. The interior of the chapel is impressively illuminated. Daylight from the lantern opening penetrates through the circular hole in the floor down to the basement. In the past, the city prison where John Sarkander was interrogated and tortured to death in 1620 was located on the site of the Chapel. John Sarkander was accused by Protestants of having helped to arrange the invasion of the army of the Polish Catholic King into Moravia. However, he did not violate the Seal of Confession during the torture and was therefore canonized by Pope Pope John Paul II. during his visit to Olomouc in 1995.QNa Hradě, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 22 39 15, www.svatymichal.cz. Open 09:00 13:00 & 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon (July and August).10:00 - 12:00 & 13:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon (Sep-June).

ST MICHAEL’S CHURCH The three domes of the St. Michael’s Church are one of the most distinctive landmarks of the city. This Baroque church was rebuilt from the original Gothic church and was consecrated probably in 1251. Outer walls and a vault at the end of the presbytery have been preserved of the original early Gothic building. The church was rebuilt into the current Early-Baroque form in 1673-1686 as proposed

by G. P. Tencalla. The interior was re-decorated in the Baroque style after the fire of 1709. In the years 1892 -1898 the church underwent a Neo-Baroque reconstruction. facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

The single-nave structure with side chapels has a rich sculptural and painting decoration and is an example of the Baroque appeal aimed at the senses of the church-goers.

A Gothic St. Alexei Chapel and a Gothic Cloister with cross vaulting adjoin the church building.QŽerotínovo náměstí 1, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 603 28 29 75, www.svatymichal.cz.

Open Wed 10:00 - 12:00 & 14:30 - 15:30. Fri 14:30 - 15:30.

ST. WENCESLAS CATHEDRAL St Wenceslas’ Cathedral with its two-tower face is an integral part of the city skyline. The third, the southern tower standing 100.65 meters high, is the tallest church tower in Moravia (and the second highest in the country).

The three-naved hall of the church comes from the original medieval layout. The Appanage Prince Svatopluk commenced the construction of the Cathedral in 11041107. His son Wenceslas continued with the construction and handed over the unfinished building to Olomouc Bishop Jindřich Zdík before his death. The unfinished building was consecrated in 1131. It was completed in 1141 and it became an episcopal Church. The original three-nave Romanesque basilica has undergone numerous modifications and reconstructions. The cathedral was completely rebuilt into a Gothic style after a fire in 1265.

It got - indeed, like the whole interior and exterior of the building – a Neo-Gothic appearance at the end of the19th century.QVáclavské náměstí, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 731 40 20 36, www.katedralaolomouc.cz. The Crypt is open from May until September 10:00 - 13:00 & 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

GETTING TO OLOMOUC Located in the middle of Moravia, Olomouc is easily accessible from all parts of Czech Republic and is a great base for exploring the region.

BY BUS If you are coming from Prague, a train is your best bet - buses are long and involve at least a few changes.

From Brno, Ostrava or other Moravian cities, a bus may be faster and more convenient. Check www.idos.cz for schedules.

BY CAR From Prague Olomouc is 284 kilometres east if you take the fastest and most direct route. You’ll travel the D1 to Brno and then head north from there via Vyškov and Prostějov. For a longer more scenic route you can take the northern route via the E442 from Hradec Králové.

Olomouc is easily accessible by car from Poland, Slovakia and Vienna too.

BY TRAIN OLOMOUC MAIN RAILWAY STATION QJeremenkova 103/23, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 972 74 14 90/(+420) 840 11 21 13, www.cd.cz.

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Olomouc MUSEUMS ARCHDIOCESAN MUSEUM The Archdiocesan Museum is housed in the renovated buildings of the chapter deanery on Wenceslas Square. The tour includes the Romanesque Bishop’s Palace (formerly known as the Přemyslid Palace) and the Chapel of St. Barbara.

The sightseeing of the renovated buildings is a unique experience of its own. They demonstrate the architectural and artistic progress at the site of the so-called Olomouc castle on Wenceslas hill throughout the last millennium - from the remains of the royal palace through the high Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance periods to the late Baroque and Rococo interiors.

The permanent exhibition of the Museum introduces visitors to the spiritual culture of the Olomouc Archdiocese.

A picture gallery shows marvellous paintings collected

by Olomouc bishops since the 16th century. A concert hall called “Mozarteum” is part of the premises. It has been named to commemorate the stay of the famous composer at this place.QVáclavské náměstí 3, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 51 41 11, www.olmuart.cz/en/olomoucarchdiocesan-museum/. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70/35Kč, Family 140Kč. Admission free on Sun and every first Wed of the month.

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART The Museum of Modern Art in Olomouc is located in an Art Nouveau building at the Republic Square and contains collections of fine and commercial arts. The so-called „Threenave hall“(Trojlodí) and the cabinets on the first floor serve to hold temporary exhibitions of Czech and international art. The Museum specializes in visual art of the 20th and 21st centuries. It holds long-term and short-term exhibitions of Czech and foreign modern art. One of the most successful exhibitions has been the one of Victor Vasarely, founder of the famous art direction op-art, as well as the exhibition of most popular Czech painter and illustrator Josef Lada.

On the second floor there is a permanent exhibition devoted to Dutch painting of the 16th to 18th century from the collection founded by the Bishop of Olomouc, Karl II. of

Chapel of St. Anne

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Arion Fountain

Liechtenstein-Castelcorn. From the attic you can climb to a lookout glass turret, from where you can get an interesting view of the historical city center.QDenisova 47, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 51 41 11, www.olmuart.cz/en. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70/35Kč, Family 140Kč.

PALACES & VILLAS ROMANESQUE BISHOP’S PALACE The Romanesque Bishop’s Palace, formerly better known as the Přemyslid Palace, is located on the Wenceslas Hill.

Its name is associated with Moravian Appanage Princes of the Přemyslid dynasty who had their castle here in the 11th century already. The preserved parts of the palace buildings however, come from the later era of the Bishop Jindřich Zdík. It was him who built next to the Cathedral Basilica a Bishop’s Palace in the first half of the 12th century. The palace belonged, as per the preserved stonework, to the very top of European Romanesque residential architecture.QVáclavské nám. 4, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 51 41 11, www.tourism. olomouc.eu. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. (May-Oct).

VILLA PRIMAVESI This Art Nouveau villa of the Viennese style has a layout of an English hall. The villa is located in a garden above the city walls and is sensitively incorporated into the historic city center. The villa was built as a home of the banking family of Otto and Eugenia Primavesi. The interior decoration was created by leading artists of that time. One of them was the family friend Anton Hanak, who designed the dining-room’s panelling with the copper fountain „Viva Aqua“, the night-watchman’s statue and a number of other works of art. Other noted artists who took part in the villa’s decoration included the designer and architect Josef Hoffman and the painter Gustav Klimt. Only a fraction of the artistically valuable original decoration of the villa has been preserved: the mosaic in the lobby, a fountain in the hall and a pillar with a statue of Prayer in the garden.

Today the villa is partially open to public in the form of the Primavesi Gallery.QUniverzitní 224/7, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 23 48 16, www.vilaprimavesi.cz. Open 08:30 12:30 & 13:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun, Mon. Admission free. prague.inyourpocket.com

Olomouc PLACES OF INTEREST HOLY TRINITY COLUMN The Holy Trinity Column in Olomouc dominates the city centre and its grandiosity easily takes the visitor’s breath away. It is the largest group of Baroque statues within a single sculptural monument in Central Europe. The column reaches a 32 metres height and its lower part houses a seasonally accessible chapel. Since 2000 the Holy Trinity Column has been present on UNESCO World Heritage List.

The sculptural decoration comprises 18 stone sculptures of saints, 12 light-bearers and 6 relief busts of the apostles. The column is dominated by gilded copper sculptures of the Holy Trinity on the top and the Assumption of the Virgin beneath it. The overall sculptural decoration has a natural and harmonious appearance and is due to its uniqueness certainly worth attention.QHorní náměstí, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 51 33 85, www.olomouc.eu. The Column’s interior is open Apr - Sep 09:00 - 14:00.

TOWN HALL WITH ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK The Olomouc Town Hall building, which dominates the Upper Square (Horní náměstí), has been for more than six centuries a symbol of economic and political importance of the former royal capital of Moravia.Today it is the most important monument of non-religious architecture in Olomouc and, besides the Archbishop’s Palace and six ancient churches, it is the only monument with public or representative function still serving its original purpose today, accommodating the headquarters of the elected city government and its office.

The Olomouc Astronomical Clock is situated in the northern facade of the Town Hall. It is set into a 14 m high pointed-arched recess. The present-day appearance of the Clock dates back to the 50s of the 20th Century and bears the traces of the former official aesthetic of socialist realism. The mosaic decoration of the Clock is made of various portrayals on the lateral sides of the recess depicting characteristic work for each month of the year. The author of the design, Karel Svolinský, introduced the folklore motif of the Ride of the Kings at the top of the recess. Figures representing the different working classes are depicted in the lower part of the mosaic decoration.QHorní náměstí, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 51 33 85, www.tourism.olomouc.eu. The visit is part of guided tour Olomouc in a Nutshell. Daily from June 15th till September 30th at 09:30, 11:00, 12:30, 14:00, 15:30 and 17:00. Admission 70/35Kč, Children under 6 free.

HOTELS PENZION NA HRADĚ Penzion Na Hradě offers 4-star accommodation close to the Old Town Hall.QMichalská 4, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 20 32 31, www.penzionnahrade.cz. P­i­L­G­W THE ARIGONE The Arigone is a stylish hotel with a restaurant and wine bar.QUniverzitní 20, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 23 23 51, www.arigone.cz. H­K­w facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

baroko.olomouc.eu

Olomouc Baroque Festival 29. 6.–22. 7. 2016 Jesuit Convent – Art Centre of Palacký University

The 4th edition of summer nights with musical theater, in the historical set-up of the old city of Olomouc 6,30 pm Welcome drink, visit to the exhibitions in the Jesuit Convent corridors 7 pm – 9,30 pm Opera performance; between the 1st and 2nd movements a coffee break on the newly opened courtyard, and a visit to the Corpus Christi Chapel 9,30 pm Commented night sightseeing tour of the St John Sarkander Chapel and the St Michael Church

A special stay packages offer with tickets for two from CZK 1,990 at: www.stayovernight.eu General partners:

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Pilsen

Pilsen’s main square features a trio of gold fountains

A city traditionally of industry and beer, Pilsen (Plzeň) is keeping true to its roots while moving decidedly contemporary. Chosen as one of the European Capitals of Culture in 2015, upgraded buildings, new cultural venues and the enjoyment that came from a lively events calendar have luckily remained and there’s lots to see and do, both old and new here today.

The city dates back to 1295, and at one time was the third largest in the country, after Prague and Kutna Hora.

Lucky for beer lovers the world over, the ruler at the time, King Wenceslas II endowed the city with the right to brew beer. The city flourished mainly due to its location at the confluence of four rivers (Úhlava, Úslava, Radbuza and Mže) which meant it was a perfect crossroads for trade, especially goods coming from the direction of what is now Germany. A couple of fires in the 16th century destroyed much of the town centre which was curiously rebuilt by many Italian architects and builders. Baroque also played a big part in the city’s style, and the tourist information bureau offers a cool map that plots out a walking tour of the town to take in some of the best preserved buildings.

But it was the 19th century and the launch of two famous brands that brought Pilsen true renown: Škoda Works and the Bürgerbrauerei, today’s Pilsner Urquell. Škoda Works was the largest engineering enterprise in the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

The University of West Bohemia is located here which gives the town a younger, more alive vibe. With 170,000 inhabitants, Pilsen is small enough to be relaxed, but big enough to keep you amused. Any visit should start at the city’s main square. It is huge, and home to a variety of markets and other fun activities throughout the year, including a Christmas market. The Cathedral of St. Bartholomew is open to the public, and be sure to climb 58 Prague In Your Pocket

the tower for great views across the region. The houses on the square include glimpses of medieval, renaissance, baroque, gothic and more. The streets surrounding the square are also good for a wander. In doing so, keep your eyes peeled for sgraffito decoration featuring themes from Czech history. Most of these were done between 1894 and 1898 by famed Czech artist Mikoláš Aleš. He was a great friend of well-known architect Rudolf Štech who was from Pilsen, and Aleš decorated many of his buildings.

Of course, no visit to Pilsen would be complete without touring the brewery. It is actually interesting, educational and highly recommended. If you can keep yourself out of the Pilsner filled pubs, other city highlights include the Patton Memorial Museum and the Pilsner Historical Underground.

Pilsen makes for a full and fun day trip from Prague, but you could probably justify a couple days here making the most of the green spaces, laidback fun and variety of cultural options.

GETTING TO PILSEN

BY CAR Pilsen is 90km from Prague along the D5 motorway. The drive in normal traffic takes no longer than 50 minutes.

BY TRAIN Trains for Pilsen depart at least every half an hour (more frequent during the day) from Prague’s main station.

Note however that the journey time, at around 95 minutes, is much longer than for the bus, and the price of a ticket, at 120Kč, costs more. prague.inyourpocket.com

Pilsen ATTRACTIONS TECHMANIA AND 3D PLANETARIUM The Techmania Science Centre, one of the newest tourist destinations in Pilsen, is housed in a renovated factory building in the Škoda Plzeň complex. This modern interactive centre demonstrates that science is not just about research, but is also a possible source of fun. An area of 3000 square metres offers exhibits focused on physical games, experiments and scientific news or the exposition called MáToHáček, a collection of original scientific toys (not only) for children. In the permanent exhibit on the history and modern-day Škoda Plzeň one can admire unique technical items – the first locomotive with a fibreglass body (1963), the only surviving trolleybus type 3Tr3 (1947) and the oldest surviving electric locomotive produced in Pilsen 3D planetarium The unique 3D Planetarium was opened at Techmania Science Centre in November 2013.

Two domes form the heart of the planetarium. The largest is 14 metres in diameter and can seat up to 90 visitors. From outside it looks like an enormous burning Sun with planets revolving around it. The second, smaller dome seats 40. The Planetarium also houses twenty-seven interactive exhibits where you can see for yourself how a tornado works, a volcano erupts, a rocket takes off, an astronaut feels during training and much more.

Sky-Skan technology allows three-dimensional films to be projected on a curved surface, allowing the viewer to feel as if the stars are within reach and it’s the only place in the Czech Republic which is able to project 3D films onto a spherical surface. As a result, visitors see three-dimensional objects not only in front of them, as they would in a standard cinema, but also all around them. Under the larger dome, audiences can watch a film about astronauts and feel as if they are right in the space shuttle’s cargo hold.

Under the smaller dome they can see planet surfaces and curious phenomena.

In addition to cutting-edge 3D and 2D international educational films, locally-produced films are also screened, such as “Obloha nad” (The Sky Above) and “Krásy vesmíru” (The Beauties of the Universe). The section titled “Science on a Sphere” includes an interactive globe that screens 500 short films and educational programmes.QU Planetária 2969/1, tel. (+ 420) 737 24 75 85, www.techmania. cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00, Though the planetarium is open daily, advance reservations are recommended online. Admission 180/110Kč. Family ticket 470Kč. Children under 4 free.

CHURCHES & SYNAGOGUES ST. BARTHOLOMEW’S CATHEDRAL The best way to get acquainted with Pilsen is to look out from the highest point – the tower of St Bartholomew’s Cathedral. With a height of 102.6 metres, it is the tallest church tower in the Czech Republic. Climb up the 301 steps and you’ll discover that Pilsen is a city that was laid out based on the most modern principles of mediaeval facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

urban planning. The checkerboard street plan and spacious central square offer overwhelming proof of this. Amidst the vibrant mosaic of townhouses, towers and chimneys you’ll be able to easily pick out the city’s prominent landmarks – the slender tower of St John of Nepomuk Church in the south and the Great Synagogue to the southwest. Looking westward you’ll see all the way to the zoo and botanical garden; the Pilsner brewery is in the east.

The city is surrounded by hills. In the southeast you’ll easily recognise Radyně Hill and the castle ruins atop the hill.

Work started on St Bartholomew’s Cathedral shortly after the city was founded. The 58-metre long, 30-metre wide cathedral features breathtaking net vault ceiling that is 25 metres high. At the centre of the Neo-Gothic altar you’ll see the city’s most valuable treasure – a 134-centimetre tall statue of the Virgin Mary and the Christ Child, the Madonna of Pilsen. It was created in around 1390 and is now considered a masterpiece of European Gothic sculpture.

The soulful expression on the Virgin Mary’s face, unusual for its time, gave cause for numerous legends – including one about a young Franciscan monk’s hopeless love for the daughter of a local merchant.

To cure his unhappy love, the abbot ordered a young artist to carve an argillite statue of the Virgin Mary. The monk worked without interruption.

He did not sleep or eat and allowed no one to see the statue until it was officially unveiled. When it finally was, everyone was shocked. They immediately recognised that the Madonna’s face was a faithful reproduction of the burgher’s daughter. The abbot severely punished the monk for such blasphemy and had the statue covered up in the deep cellars. Only after all of the people involved in the incident were long dead could the Madonna be brought back up to the altar of St Bartholomew’s Cathedral, where it remains to this day.

To the right of the altar, enter the Sternberg Chapel to see another precious object. The rare Art Nouveau altar won first prize in the category of ecclesiastical art at the World’s Fair in Paris in 1900.Qnám. Republiky 35, Plzeň, tel. (+ 420) 728 308 761, www.temporaliabona.unas.cz. Open 10:00 - 16:00.

THE GREAT SYNAGOGUE The Great Synagogue, built in Moorish-Romanesque style in 1892, is the largest synagogue in the Czech Republic and the second largest in Europe after the Dohany Synagogue in Budapest. There have been several periods of Jewish settlement in Pilsen; in 1938 the city’s Jewish community was composed of 3,200 members.

The Great Synagogue recalls this era – and the subsequent period of Nazi occupation that almost completely decimated the local Jewish community. The synagogue survived the war solely because the Germans used it to store military material. The unique building’s superb acoustics help make the concerts often held here absolutely unforgettable.QSady pětatřicátníků 11, Plzeň, tel. (+ 420) 377 23 57 49, www.zoplzen.cz. Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Sat. November-March open only by prior arrangement.

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Pilsen MUSEUMS BREWERY MUSEUM The Brewery Museum is housed in an original brewing house from the 15th century. The legend of beer and beer history dating back to the Middle Ages can be experienced including a malt house, malt kiln, brewery lab equipment and a collection of Czech beer bottles.

QVeleslavínova 6, Plzeň, tel. (+ 420) 377 23 55 74, www.prazdrojvisit.cz/en. Open 10:00 - 18:00 (Apr - Sep). 10:00 - 17:00 (Oct - Mar). Tours 90/60Kč. The tour includes Pilsner Urquell beer tasting (0.3 l) – for adults only.

BREWERY TOURS PILSNER URQUELL BREWERY The first batch of beer filled the air of the Burgher’s Brewery on 5 October 1842. This was when the exceptionally light, bottom-fermented Pilsner Urquell was born. The beverage became the model for pilsner beer, which now accounts for 70 per cent of all beer brewed worldwide. The company’s essential symbols are the Neo-Renaissance portal from 1892 and a water tower from 1907 that is reminiscent of a Dutch lighthouse. The fifty-metre high building stands on the former executioner’s hill, where Chodsko’s most famous native son, rebel leader Jan Sladký Kozina, was killed in 1695.

The tour of the brewery starts at the Visitor’s Centre, in the building housing the original wort cooler. The guide will lead you to areas associated with the history of the Pilsner Urquell legend as well as to areas where beer is brewed today. In addition, you’ll see one of the most modern bottling lines in Europe, a panorama cinema, a unique exhibit of beer ingredients and an historical and a modern brewhouse. The highlight of the tour is a visit to the historical beer cellars, where visitors of drinking age can taste unfiltered, unpasteurised Pilsner Urquell tapped directly from an oak lager barrel. Even on the hottest of summer days, though, be sure to take a warm jacket with you.

It is only 4°C (39°F) in the cellars.QU prazdroje 7, tel. (+ 420) 377 06 28 88, www.prazdrojvisit.cz. ​O pen 08:00 - 18:00 Apr - Sep), 08:00 - 17:00 (Oct-Mar).

Tours in English every day at 10:45, 13:00, 14:45, 16:30. Tours 200/120Kč.

PLACES OF INTEREST NÁMĚSTÍ REPUBLIKY The town square is situated at the very core of the historical downtown area. At 139 by 193 metres, it is one of the largest Gothic town squares not only in Bohemia, but in all of Europe. This is where you can feel the heartbeat of the city. Republic Square is the natural centre for cultural events, celebrations and markets. In addition to St Bartholomew’s Cathedral, the square is dominated by three modern gold fountains and a 17th century plague column.QNáměstí Republiky, Plzeň, www.visitpilsen.eu.

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PATTON MEMORIAL PILSEN On 6 May 1945, the US Army liberated Pilsen. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of this event, the Patton Memorial Pilsen museum was established. Named for the legendary military commander, the museum contains period photographs of Pilseners with US soldiers, period English-language newspapers, authentic uniforms, gear and weapons, chewing gum, cigarettes and even unopened tins of food that remained in Pilsen after the liberators departed.QPobřežní 10, Plzeň, tel. (+ 420) 377 32 04 14, www.patton-memorial.cz. Open 09:00 - 13:00 and 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entry 30 minutes from closing times. Admission 60/40Kč.

Family ticket 120Kč.

PILSEN HISTORICAL UNDERGROUND Pilsen’s underground is one of the most popular sites in the city. The nearly 20-kilometre labyrinth of corridors and cellars weaves through the heart of the city. The 800-metre tour of the underground acquaints visitors with the history and functions of the underground corridors, cellars and wells. The corridors served not only to store food, but – according to legend – also as escape routes if the town ever came under siege. It is said that one could take the corridors even as far as beyond the town ramparts.

According to other legends, there are numerous treasures embedded in the walls of the mysterious cellars below some of the houses.

It is interesting to note that there is an unusually high number of underground wells. Several hundred have been found in a small area of the mediaeval town. As each house had several wells, it comes as little surprise that Pilsen’s burgers “grabbed” all the water resources. As a result, they had to build a water tower and water wheel.

This pumped water from the functioning wells into the water tower, from where it travelled to the fountains on the main square. A replica of the original water wheel can be seen in the waterworks exhibit when you tour the Pilsen underground.QVeleslavínova 6, Plzeň, tel. (+ 420) 377 235 574, www.plzenskepodzemi.cz/en.

In July and August English language tours take place at 11:20 and 14:20. Check their website for times from September onwards. Tours in English 120/90Kč.

Family ticket (up to 2 adults and up to 3 children 260Kč. prague.inyourpocket.com

Pilsen RESTAURANTS NA SPILCE Located on the grounds of the Pilsner brewery, and in the brewery’s former fermentation cellar, you won’t get more authentic than Na Spilce. Their specialties are pork, but salads, steak, fish and chicken can be had as well. And you know the beer ought to be nice and fresh.QU Prazdroje 7, Plzeň, tel. (+ 420) 377 062 755, www.naspilce.com.

Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00.

POTREFENÁ HUSA PLZEŇ The ambiguous Staropramen restaurant is also in the heart of Pilsner Urquell land. Stylish design and a creative Czech menu, if you’ve burned out on Pils, head here for a different beer. Their menu is a bit fresher as well, including fettuccini with salmon and a grilled chicken steak with vegetable ragout for those who may be feeling bloated with pork and dumplings.QMartinská 10/1, PlzeňJižní Předměstí, tel. (+ 420) 377 32 08 32, husaplzen. janakbros.cz. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 24:00. (118-279Kč).

CITY of PILSEN More than just beer!

The West Bohemian metropolis is well-known for its beer. It was also awarded the title of the European Capital of Culture 2015. The picturesque historical centre with nice parks, multiple events and relaxing atmosphere make Pilsen a little paradise. Even you should open it for yourself.

U SALZMANNŮ For the best Bohemian cuisine in Plzeň, visit U Salzmannů for some beef with cream sauce, goulash or roasted pork knee. A typical pub atmosphere, the place is popular with locals thanks to their generous helping of stick-toyour-ribs Czech staples.QPražská 90/8, Plzeň-Vnitřní Město, tel. (+ 420) 377 23 54 76, www.usalzmannu. com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION All the who, what, when, where and why you need to know, the friendly tourist info folks can help with accommodation, attractions, maps, city transport and more. You can also arrange tours and they have public internet access.QNám.

Republiky 41, Plzeň, tel. (+ 420) 378 03 53 30, www. pilsen.eu. Open 09:00 - 19:00 (Apr - Sep). 09:00 - 18:00 (Oct - Mar).

HOTELS COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT PILSEN QSady 5. května 2699/57, Plzeň, tel. (+ 420) 373 37 01 34, www.courtyardpilsen.cz. P­T­J­H­A­U­F­ G­K HOTEL ANGELO QU Prazdroje 6, tel. (+ 420) 78 016 100, www.angelopilsen.cz. P­i­W hhhh HOTEL CENTRAL QNáměstí Republiky 358/33, Plzeň-Vnitřní Město, tel. (+ 420) 377 22 67 57, www.central-hotel.cz. J­H­K­ D­w­W facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

5 ATTRACTIONS YOU SHOULDN’T MISS: → Republic Square with St Bartholomew Cathedral → Pilsner Urquell Brewery and Brewery Museum → Great Synagogue - the third largest in the world → Apartment interiors designed by the world famous architect Adolf Loos → Exhibition Baroque Art in the Pilsen Region and West Bohemia (28th October - 20th March the Gallery of West Bohemia)

www.visitpilsen.eu

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Shopping

ANTIQUES V. ANDRLE Gold and jewellery galore, with online ordering available.

They also have various items of interest from the Cubist, Art Nouveau and Art Deco periods.QE‑8, Křížovnická 1, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 16 25, www. antiqueandrle.cz. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 18:00.

DEPARTMENT STORES BÍLÁ LABUŤ An ode to the past, historians and lovers of kitsch are highly recommended to spend an afternoon here getting lost in the loot.QH‑7, Na poříčí 23, MFlorenc, tel. (+420) 222 32 02 27, www.bilalabut.cz. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

DEBENHAMS The English department store has made its mark.QG‑9, Václavské nám. 21, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 221 01 50 26, www.debenhams.cz/en. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

KOTVA Experience Czech shopping as it used to be, pre-democracy.

The building is an architectural landmark, believe it or not and inside you’ll find a decent selection of shops and services, plus food options and kid’s area on the third floor.

Head up to the roof for fabulous views and beer. Or around to the back for interesting food stands (pie, wine…).QG‑7, 62 Prague In Your Pocket

nám. Republiky 8, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 80 11 11, www.od-kotva.cz/en. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. L TESCO MY Britain’s favourite store with a supermarket in the basement.

The building is state-protected so be sure to appreciate the architecture outside before going in for bargains inside.

QF‑9, Národní 26, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 222 81 51 11, www.itesco.cz. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. Supermarket open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

GALLERIES DOROTHEUM An auction house for all sorts of art and design objects. If you miss the auction date, their gallery is fun to browse, plus they offer daily e-shopping online.QF‑8, Ovocný trh 2, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 22 20 01, www.dorotheum. cz. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri 15:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sun.

GIFTS MANUFAKTURA Fabulous place for authentic gifts to bring home, especially for yourself. A wide-range of Czech made products featuring natural cosmetics crafted from wine, beer, Dead Sea salt and more.QF‑8, Melantrichova 17, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 601 31 06 11, www.manufaktura.cz/en. Open 10:00 - 20:00. prague.inyourpocket.com

Shopping GLASS Try as you might, you’ll probably not escape the Czech Republic without a piece of glassware, so you’ll at least be able to impress your friends with a bit of history.

The term ‘Bohemian Glass’ has come to refer to the type of glass developed in this country in the late 16th century during the rule of Rudolph II. The following century glassmakers found a way to make glass with a crystal appearance, which could be covered with deep engravings. Today the term tends to mean glass overlaid with colour, usually red, through which a design is cut or etched.

NOVÝ SMÍCHOV Home to Tesco and more, this is an always packed place.

A Cinema City and a bowling alley are on the top floor.

QPlzeňská 8, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 251 10 10 61, www. novysmichov.eu. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Tesco hypermarket open 06:00 - 24:00. U PALLADIUM Prague’s brightest mall. What used to be an army barracks is now home to a huge variety of shops. A gourmet floor and lots of restaurants means you could easily lose a day amidst the 5 floors of climate-controlled amusement.QG‑8, nám.

Republiky 1, Mnám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 225 770 250, www.palladiumpraha.cz/en. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Supermarket Open 07:00 - 22:00.

ARTĚL A smart spot on the Prague glass scene, which can be a bit on the tacky side. The proprietor has a fun shopping sense and you never know what you may find, be it books, jewellery or other Bohemian treasures.QG‑8, Celetná 29, MStaroměstské nám., tel. (+420) 224 81 50 85, www. artelglass.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00.

SLOVANSKÝ DŮM High end retail shops, a multiplex cinema and Kogo restaurant attract the right people at this central shopping centre.QG‑8, Na Příkopě 22, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 45 14 00, www.slovanskydum.cz/en. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

SHOPPING CENTRES

SPECIALITY SHOPS

ARKÁDY PANKRÁC Arkády Pankrác is one of the best of Prague’s bazillion malls. With a direct entrance from the Pankrác metro station and a lot of really good shops; this should be a popular hang out. Blažek for men, Pierre Cardin and Pietro Filipi are just a few of the good ones, along with consistent favs Next, Gant, H&M and Mango. And, they have nine separate shoe shops! Unfortunately, the food court (everyone’s real reason for going to the mall) is a bit disappointing; however they do have a branch of the fab Lebanese restaurant, Safir.QNa Pankráci 86, MPankrác, tel. (+420) 225 11 11 00, www.arkady-pankrac.cz/en.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Albert supermarket open 07:00 22:00.

HARDDECORE Wide range of Czech designer made goods including porcelain, notebooks, clothing, jewellery, home goods and more.QH‑8, Senovážné nám. 10, MHlavní nádraží, tel. (+420) 775 41 72 30, www.harddecore.cz. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

ATRIUM FLÓRA A very chic shopping centre, with over 120 shops, as well as restaurants, cafés, a cinema multiplex and an IMAX theatre.

All in the centre of Prague.QL‑10, Vinohradská 151, MFlóra, tel. (+420) 255 74 17 12, www.atrium-flora. cz/en. Open Mon-Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Albert supermarket open 07:00 - 24:00.

TOYS

ČERNÁ RŮŽE All the right shops and some fine extras in this larger-thanit-appears centre.QG‑8, Na Příkopě 12, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 221 01 41 11, www.cernaruze.cz/en. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

MYSLBEK Small shopping centre on Na Příkopě. Also works as a nice passageway to Ovocný trh.QG‑8, Na Příkopě 21, MNám.

Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 23 95 50, www.ngmyslbek.cz/ en. Open 09:00 - 20:00. facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

TERRYHO PONOŽKY Inside the Kino Světozor box office lobby is this cool shop for all things movie-manic: souvenir-tastic Czech language film posters, cool T-shirts, DVDs and books.

QG‑9, Vodičkova 41, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 94 68 29, www.terryhoponozky.cz. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

GAMES & PUZZLES Game lovers can browse what’s hot on the Czech game and mind teaser market.QF‑10, Václavské nám. 38, tel. (+420) 224 94 65 06, www.hras.cz. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

SPARKYS PALLADIUM Children can be tamed in big massive malls with a stop off at Sparkys. The toy store is a great mix of stuffed animals, games, cool hip toys and some retro ones as well.Qnáměstí Republiky 1, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 225 77 17 50, www.sparkys.cz. Sun-Wed 09:00 21:00, Thu-Sat 09:00 - 22:00.

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Leisure

There’s plenty to do outside in Prague in the summer

BEACHES & LAKES

INDOOR ACTIVITIES

Beaches...? Yes, despite being a landlocked country, and actually because we are in a landlocked country, the beaches have been brought to us. Enjoy and don’t forget the sunscreen.

PLANETARIUM Prague’s planetarium, opened in 1960, is the largest in the Czech Republic and one of the largest in the world.

Its astronomical dome can accommodate 250 people and it houses three projectors in one building. Go to see shows of the stars (the astronomical kind) as well as the permanent exhibition.QG‑3, Praha 7, Královská obora 233, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+ 420) 220 99 90 01, www.planetarium.cz. Admission 50 - 150Kč.

DIVOKÁ ŠÁRKA A lake and lots of open space to walk and bike on the outskirts of Prague. This nature reserve has a public pool and reservoir, kids’ areas, plus a pub. Tram 26 to Nad Džbánem, you’ll see the park sprawling behind a McDonald’s.QPraha 6, Divoká Šárka 41, MDejvická, tel. (+ 420) 603 72 35 01, www.koupaliste-sarka.webnode. cz. Open May - Sep 09:00-19:00. Public pool admission: 80/30Kč. T­B­K ŽLUTÉ LÁZNĚ A vast part grass, part sand area for swimming (kids pool only last year), volleyball, football, climbing, petanque or just hammocks for those less energetic. A good restaurant and beer garden, WiFi, a nude beach and DJs only add zest to a sizzling day out. Tram N°s 3, 16, 17, 21, 52 to Dvorce.

No dogs allowed.QE‑16, Praha 4, Podolské nábřeží, tel. (+ 420) 244 46 37 77, www.zlutelazne.cz. Open 08:00 - 02:00. Admission 80/30Kč, free after 17:00. T­E­B­ K­C­W

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SEAWORLD A loop audio tape of tidal wash envelops Prague’s little known aquarium, Mořský Svět. The suspended manta ray may be huge, but the tanks are small although well stocked with tropical and fresh water fish. One tank has, we presume in honour of Finding Nemo, clown fish and a tang. Deadly but beautiful scorpion and turkey fish languish looking like fully sailed galleons, and soft corals billow in the current.

It’s not huge, but makes an interesting detour. Signs are Czech only.QH‑3, Praha 7, Výstaviště, MHolešovice, tel. (+ 420) 220 10 33 05, www.morsky-svet.cz. Open 10:00 - 19:00. 190/150Kč.

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES ZOO PRAHA Voted the fourth best zoo in the world in 2015, Zoo Praha is a really cool zoo. Following the floods of 2002 (in which there was an unfortunate loss of animal life that was broadcast round the world) many improvements to prague.inyourpocket.com

Leisure infrastructure and the animal’s homes have been made.

Big ones, like elephants, lions and tigers can be spotted, but don’t miss the gorillas, penguins, kangaroos, giraffes, parrots, wolves and hyenas. Recent additions have included an Indonesian Jungle and pavilion for a group of rare Indian crocodiles. Additional highlights include the Gorilla Pavilion and African Jungle. Definitely the place to come to if you have little ones in tow – there’s an excellent petting zoo and kids play area. A train ride through the zoo, a chair lift ride above the zoo or wagonlike vehicles for the kids are available for tired tootsies.

Shaded, well-laid out paths make this a good visit, even on warm days.

The zoo opened in 1931 and today spreads over 60 hectares and is home to nearly 5,000 animals. Another special aspect of Zoo Praha is their conservation efforts. The facility was instrumental in preventing the extinction of Przewalski horses in the 60s and has assisted with the reintroduction of a variety of bird species across Central Europe as well as gorilla conversation in Central Africa and the gharial crocodile in India. Concession stands are inside and there’s a restaurant near the entrance. Take bus 112 from metro station Nádraží Holešovice.QD‑1, Praha 7, U Trojského zámku 3, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+ 420) 296 112 230, www.zoopraha.cz. Open 09.00 - 21.00. Open 09.00 - 16.00 (Nov - Feb) March 09.00 - 17.00 (Mar), 09:00 - 18:00 (Apr, May, Sep, Oct). Admission 200Kč.

T­A­U­L­B­K

Bez názvu-3 1 facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

WATER PARKS & SWIMMING POOLS AQUA PALACE Billing itself as the biggest water park in Central Europe, Aquapalace is the place to go for all your wet and wild fun.

The massive complex includes three different indoor water adventures with slides, artificial waves and whirlpools; two aquariums to spot sea life and coral up close; 14 different heating rooms as part of their Sauna World plus the opportunity to book facials and massages. There’s lots of space and activities for children, restaurants and food stands and a hotel on site if one day is just not enough.

Qwww.aquapalace.cz.

vine.co/inyourpocket PODOLÍ Two huge outdoor swimming pools along the river with high diving boards, an indoor pool with funky self propelled paddle boats, and a slide into the pool. There is also a beach for sunbathing plus a solarium and sauna – which have to be paid for separately. Take tram N°3 or 16 to Podoli.QPraha 4, Podolská 74, tel. (+ 420) 241 43 39 52, www.pspodoli.cz. Open 06:00 - 21:45. Sat & Sun 06:00 - 22:00. Admission 80/45Kč per 1.5 hour. Weekends 110/30Kč per day. T­B­K­D­C

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Directory 24-HOUR PHARMACIES LÉKÁRNA PALACKÉHOQF‑9, Palackého 5, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 94 69 82. Open 24hrs.

LÉKÁRNA U SVATÉ LUDMILYQH‑11, Belgická 37, MNáměstí Míru, tel. (+420) 222 51 33 96, www. lekarnabelgicka.cz. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

DENTISTS DENTAL OFFICE H33 Dental Office H33 is the centre for excellence in dental care, implantology and cosmetic dentistry. They provide premium dental care to international standards. The team of dentists, dental hygienists and assistents is prepared to provide the level and range of treatment desired by their demanding patients.QHvězdova 33 - Pankrác, MPankrác, tel. (+420) 733 73 73 37, www.dental-office. cz. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

FOREIGN REPRESENTATIONS AUSTRALIAQG‑7, Klimentská 10, MNáměstí Re‑ publiky, tel. (+420) 221 72 92 60, www.austrade.gov. au. Open 09:00 - 13:00. Weds 09:00 - 13:00 and 14:00 17:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun. Would you like to have a beautiful smile that you always wanted?

Are you scared from a dentist?

Try our experienced team of specialists who can help you to gain your self-confidence back.

We provide full range of dental treatments including invisible braces, IV sedation or laughing gas for anxious patients.

Our friendly team will convince you that even a dentist can be your friend.

AUSTRIA QC‑11, Victora Huga 10, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 09 05 11, www.bmeia.gv.at/oeb-prag. Open 08:30 - 16:30.

Closed Sat, Sun. CANADA Visas 08:30 - 12:30 & 13:30 - 16:00 only.QD‑5, Ve Struhách 95/2, MDejvická, tel. (+420) 272 10 18 00, www. canadainternational.gc.ca/czech-tcheque/index.aspx.

Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. GERMANY QB‑8, Vlašská 19, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 11 31 11, www.prag.diplo.de. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. IRELAND QC‑8, Tržiště 13, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 01 12 80, www.embassyofireland.cz. Open 09:30 - 12:30.

Mon and Weds 09:30 - 12:30 and 14:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. UNITED KINGDOM QC‑7, Thunovská 14, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 40 21 11, www.gov.uk/government/world/czechrepublic. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. USA Consular section 09:00 - 12:00 only.QC‑8, Tržiště 15, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 02 20 00, cz.usembassy. gov. Open 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

HOSPITALS NEMOCNICE NA FRANTIŠKU English is spoken.QF‑7, Na Františku 847, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 80 11 11, www.nnfp.cz.

MEDICAL CENTRES CANADIAN MEDICAL CARE Canadian Medical Care Prague is a leading, well-established private Czech clinic with a wide range of specialisations that places strong emphasis on the highest quality medical care.QVeleslavínská 1, MNádraží Veleslavín, tel. (+420) 235 36 01 33, www.cmcpraha.cz/en-US. Open 08:00 20:00, Mon, Fri 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A­W HEALTH CENTRE PRAGUE 24-hour emergency service tel. 603 43 38 33/603 48 13 61.

Multilingual international staff, all branches of medicine.QF‑10, Vodičkova 28, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 22 00 40, www. doctor-prague.cz. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Hvězdova 44, Prague 4 tel. 733 737 337/241 410 001, www.dental-office.cz 66 Prague In Your Pocket

Full contents online: prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com

Hotels The Prague market is now saturated with hotel rooms of all size and description so finding one shouldn’t be a problem.

What might come as a surprise is the relative prices of rooms compared to the prices of food and drink. Shop around and take a look at the list of hotels we’re confident to recommend here.

CREAM OF THE CROP ALCHYMIST GRAND HOTEL & SPA QC‑8, Praha 1, Tržiště 19, MStaromětská, tel. (+ 420) 257 28 60 11, www.alchymisthotel.com. 46 rooms (26 doubles, 13 suites, 7 junior suites). P­H­AR ­ ­F­ L­E­G­K­D­C hhhhh ARIA QC‑8, Praha 1, Tržiště 9, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 225 33 41 11, www.aria.cz. 52 rooms (27 doubles, 5 suites, 2 apartments, 18 junior suites). P­T­H­A­ R­U­F­L­G­B­K­D hhhhh BUDDHA BAR HOTEL QG‑8, Praha 1, Jakubská 8, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 221 77 63 00, www.buddha-bar-hotel.cz. P­J­ A­F­K­D­W FOUR SEASONS QE‑8, Praha 1, Veleslavínova 2a, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 221 42 70 00, www.fourseasons.com/prague.

161 rooms (141 doubles, 20 apartments). P­T­H­A­ R­U­F­L­G­B­K­D hhhhh HILTON PRAGUE QJ‑6, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc, tel. (+ 420) 224 84 11 11, www.prague.hilton.com. 788 rooms (20 singles, 646 doubles, 91 triples, 19 suites, 3 apartments, 8 junior suites, 1 presidential suite). P­O­T­H­A­R­U­F­ L­G­K­D­C hhhhh HILTON PRAGUE OLD TOWN QH‑8, Praha 1, V Celnici 7, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 221 822 100, www.hilton.com. 310 rooms (299 doubles, 10 suites, 1 apartment). P­TJ ­ ­H­A­ R­U­F­L­G­K­D­C hhhhh JOSEF QG‑7, Praha 1, Rybná 20, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 221 70 01 11, www.hoteljosef.com. 110 rooms (8 singles, 102 doubles). P­H­A­R­U­F­LG ­ ­B­ K­W hhhhh LE PALAISQH‑12, Praha 2, U Zvonařky 1, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. (+ 420) 234 63 41 11, www.palaishotel.cz.

90 rooms (30 singles, 60 doubles). P­H­A­R­6­U­ I­F­G­B­K­D hhhhh PRAGUE MARRIOTT QH‑8, Praha 1, V Celnici 8, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 222 88 88 88, www.marriottprague.com. facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

293 rooms (258 doubles, 33 suites). P­T­H­A­R­U­ F­L­G­K­D­C hhhhh PRESIDENT QF‑7, nám. Curieových 100, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 234 61 41 11, www.hotelpresident.cz. 130 rooms (7 singles, 65 doubles, 22 triples, 32 junior suites, 3 senior suites, 1 presidential suite). P­O­T­H­A­ R­U­F­L­K­D hhhhh RIVERSIDE HOTEL PRAGUE QD‑11, Praha 5, Janáčkovo nábř. 15, MKarlovo nám., tel. (+ 420) 225 99 46 11, www.riversideprague.com.

45 rooms (45 apartments). P­H­AR ­ ­U­L­G­K hhhhh SHERATON PRAGUE CHARLES SQUARE HOTEL QF‑10, Prague 2, Žitná 8, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+ 420) 225 99 99 99, www.sheratonprague.com. P­J­ H­A­6­U­F­K­W hhhhh THE AUGUSTINE QD‑7, Praha 1, Letenská 12, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 266 11 22 33, www.theaugustine.com. 101 rooms (85 doubles, 16 suites) J­H­U­I­F­BK ­ ­D hhhhh THE EMBLEM HOTEL QE‑8, Platnéřská 19, tel. (+ 420) 226 202 500, www. emblemprague.com.

THE MARK LUXURY HOTEL PRAGUE QG‑8, Praha 1, Hybernská 12, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 226 22 61 11, www.themark.cz. 75 Total rooms.

P­J­H­A­U­F­G­K hhhhh

UPMARKET ANDEL’S QC‑12, Praha 5, Stroupežnického 21, MAnděl, tel. (+ 420) 296 88 96 88, www.andelshotel.com. 231 rooms (223 doubles, 8 suites). P­T­H­A­R­U­F­L­G­ K­D hhhh ANGELO HOTEL QC‑12, Praha 5, Radlická 1g/3216, MAnděl, tel. (+ 420) 234 80 11 11, www.angelohotel.com. 168 rooms (163 doubles, 2 suites, 3 junior suite ). P­H­A­R­U­ F­L­G­B­K­D hhhh CHARLES HOTEL QC‑8, Praha 1, Josefská 1, MMála Strana, tel. 257 53 29 14/774 64 44 66, www.hotel-charles.eu. 31 doubles, 6 apartments. P­J­U­W hhhh CLARION PRAGUE OLD TOWN QG‑7, Praha 1, Hradební 9, MNáměstí Republiky, tel.

296 39 81 00, www.cpihotels.cz. 93 rooms (90 doubles, 3 suites). P­J­H6 ­ ­U­L­G­K­W hhhh Summer 2016

67

Hotels JALTA HOTEL QG‑9, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 45, MMuzeum, tel. (+ 420) 222 82 21 11, www.jalta.cz. 94 rooms (89 doubles, 5 suites). P­T­HA ­ ­R­U­L­G­B­K hhhh MAMAISON SUITE HOTEL PACHTŮV PALACE PRAGUE QE‑9, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 34, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 234 70 51 11, www.mamaison.com/ pachtuvpalace. 50 rooms (50 apartments). P­W hhhhh MAXIMILIANQF‑7, Praha 1, Haštalská 14, MNám. Re‑ publiky, tel. (+ 420) 225 30 31 11, www.maximilianhotel. com. 71 rooms (6 singles, 64 doubles, 1 suite). P­H­ A­R­U­G­K­W hhhh Situated in the heart of Mala Strana, Prague’s quaint Lesser Quarter – and adjacent to the Baroque masterpiece, the Church of St Nicholas, The Nicholas Hotel Residence aims to be Prague’s most charming little hotel.

thenicholashotel.com

MISS SOPHIE’S QG‑11, Praha 2, Melounova 2-3, MI. P. Pavlova, tel. (+ 420) 246 03 26 20, www.miss-sophies.com. 34 Total rooms. A­G­B­W hhhh MOTEL ONE QH‑7, Na Poříčí 30, tel. (+ 420) 222 334 500, www. motel-one.com/de/hotels/prag/.

SOVEREIGN QG‑9, Politických vězňů 16, MMuzeum, tel. (+ 420) 242 45 45 45, www.hotel-sovereign.cz. P­J­A­F­ K­W hhhh

COURTYARD MARRIOTT FLORA QL‑10, Praha 3, Lucemburská 46, MFlora, tel. (+ 420) 236 08 80 88, www.marriott.com. 161 rooms (81 singles, 64 doubles, 13 triples, 1 suite) Breakfast 9-16. P­H­A­ R­6­U­I­F­L­G­K­W hhhh

THE ICON HOTEL QF‑10, Praha 1, V Jámě 6, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 221 63 41 00, www.iconhotel.eu. 31 rooms (1 single, 28 doubles, 2 junior suites). P­H­A­R­UG ­ ­K hhhh

DOMUS BALTHASAR QC‑8, Praha 1, Mostecká 5, tel. (+ 420) 257 19 94 99, www.hidden-places.com. 8 rooms (6 doubles, 2 suites).

A­R­G­K hhhh

U ZLATÉ STUDNĚ QC‑7, Praha 1, U Zlaté studně 166, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 01 12 13, www.zlatastudna.cz. 20 rooms (17 doubles, 2 suites, 1 junior suite). P­A­R­G­B­K hhhh

DOMUS HENRICI QB‑8, Praha 1, Loretánská 11, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 220 51 13 69, www.hidden-places.com. 8 rooms (4 doubles, 3 triples, 1 quad). H­A­G­B­K hhhh FUSION HOTEL QG‑9, Praha 1, Panská 9, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 226 22 28 88, www.fusionhotels.com.

MID-RANGE ANNA QI‑11, Praha 2, Budečská 17, MNám. Míru, tel. (+ 420) 222 51 31 11, www.hotelanna.cz. 24 rooms (8 singles, 10 doubles, 4 triples, 2 suites). T­A­R­G hhh

GRAND MAJESTIC PLAZA QG‑7, Truhlářská 16, MNáměstí republiky, tel. (+ 420) 211 159 100, www.hotel-grandmajestic.cz.

BEST WESTERN HOTEL PÁV QE‑10, Praha 1, Křemencova 13, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+ 420) 221 50 21 11, www.hotel-pav.cz. 81 rooms (66 doubles, 15 triples). P­A­R­U­K­W

HOTEL CENTURY OLD TOWN Q​ Na Porici 7, www.accorhotels.com/gb/hotel-3440hotel-century-old-town-prague-mgallery-by-sofitel/ index.shtml.

PENTAHOTEL PRAGUE QK‑6, Sokolovská 54/112, MKřižíkova, www. pentahotels.com. 226 rooms (147 doubles, 69 triples, 10 quads). P­H­A­R­U­L­G­K hhh

68 Prague In Your Pocket

prague.inyourpocket.com

Hotels SAX QB‑8, Praha 1, Jánský vršek 3, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 53 12 68, www.sax.cz. 22 rooms (2 singles, 17 doubles, 3 suites). P­A­U­G­K hhh

APARTMENTS AMOUR HOTEL RESIDENCE QC‑8, Praha 1, Malostranské nám. 5, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 53 55 78, www.amourresidencesprague. cz. 9 rooms (6 doubles, 2 suites, 1 apartment). P­T­ A­R­G­W APPIA HOTEL RESIDENCES QB‑8, Praha 1, Šporkova 3, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 21 58 19, www.appiaresidencesprague.cz. 21 rooms (10 doubles, 9 suites, 2 apartments). P­H­A­R­L­ G­B­D­W hhhh HUNGER WALL RESIDENCE QC‑10, Praha 5, Plaská 615/8, MAnděl, tel. 257 40 40 40, www.hungerwall.eu. 18 rooms (8 Junior Suite, 8 Superior Suite, 2 Executive Suite). P­J­A­W THE NICHOLAS HOTEL RESIDENCE QC‑8, Malostranske namesti 5/28, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 731 452 791, www.thenicholashotel.com.

9 rooms (6 doubles, 2 suites, 1 apartment). P­i­J­ G­W

HOSTELS CZECH INN QJ‑12, Praha 10, Francouzská 76, MNám. Míru, tel. (+ 420) 267 26 76 12, www.czech-inn.com. 52 Total rooms.

A­G­B­K­W hhh HOSTEL FRANZ KAFKA QKaprova 14/13, tel. (+420) 222 333 116, www. hostelfranzkafka.com/en.

LITTLE TOWN HOTEL QC‑8, Praha 1, Malostranské náměstí 11, MMalostranska, tel. (+ 420) 242 40 69 64, www. littletownhotel.cz. J­A­G­W PLUS PRAGUE QK‑2, Praha 7, Přívozní 1, MHolešovice, tel. (+ 420) 220 51 00 46, www.plusprague.com. T­R­U­L­B­K­D­ C­W PRAGUE SQUARE HOSTEL QF‑8, Praha 1, Melantrichova 10, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 224 24 08 59, www.praguesquarehostel.com. J­G­W SIR TOBY’S QJ‑4, Praha 7, Dělnická 24, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+ 420) 246 03 26 11, www.sirtobys.com. 27 Total rooms.

A­G­B­W hh

Sir Toby’s upholds the finest of hostel traditions with unique, comfortable dorms and private en-suite rooms.

Generous breakfasts and free barbeques in summer, free walking tours.

And so much more than you’d expect from a hostel.

Miss Sophie’s Hotel on one side of the street, and on the other, Sophie’s Hostel and Bar. Catering to fun student groups, or more discerning guests wanting luxury on a budget.

So much more than you’d expect from a hostel.

Perfect for groups – ultra-modern, chic design, great beds and bedding, designer bathrooms. Generous breakfasts, fun bar, free wifi, and more. So much more than you’d expect from a hostel.

sirtobys.com

miss-sophies.com

czech-inn.com

Featured in: New York Times, Elle, Glamour, El Pais, Washington Post, The Guardian Unlimited, Let’s Go, Lonely Planet, Routard, The Rough Guide and many more...

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket

Summer 2016

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Index Akropolis 31 Alchymist Grand Hotel & Spa 67 Ambiente Brasileiro 23 Ambiente Pasta Fresca 21 Amour Hotel Residence 69 Andel's 67 Angelato 27 Angelo Hotel 67 Anna 68 Antonín Dvořák Museum 47 Appia Hotel Residences 69 Aqua Palace 65 Archbishop's Palace 35 Aria 67 Arkády Pankrác 63 Artěl 63 Atrium Flóra 63 Back Doors 28 Bad Jeff's Barbecue 17 Bar and Books 28 Barceló Praha 67 Beas 21 Best Western Hotel Páv 68 Bethlehem Chapel 38 Bílá Labuť 62 Blue Light Bar 28 Bombay Cocktail Bar 28 Bredovský dvůr 18 Břevnov Monastery 38 Buddha Bar Hotel 67 Burger King 23 Cacao 26 Café de Paris 20 Café Imperial 26 Café Louvre 26 Café Savoy 26 Caffrey's 28 Cantina 24 Ceremonial Hall 44 Černá růže 63 Čestr 17 Charles Bridge 32 Charles Bridge Museum 39 Chez Marcel 21 Church of Mother of God before Týn 32 City Museum 40 Clarion Prague Old Town 67 Clear Head 25 Cloud 9 29 Coda 24 Coloseum 24 CottoCrudo 23 Country Life 25 Courtyard Marriott Flora 68 Cross Club 31 Czech Inn 69 Czech Museum of Music 47 Czech Tourism 39 Daliborka Tower 35 Debenhams 62 Divoká Šárka 64 Domus Balthasar 68 Domus Henrici 68 Dorotheum 62 DOX Centre for Contemporary

74 Prague In Your Pocket

Art 40 Duplex 31 El Barrio de Ángel 18 EMA espresso bar 26 First courtyard 36 Four Seasons 67 Francouzská restaurace Art Nouveau 21 Franz Kafka monument 49 Friends Coffee House 27 Fusion Hotel 68 Games & Puzzles 63 Giallo Rosa 24 Ginger & Fred 24 Gitanes 18 Glass Bar 29 Golden Lane 36 Grand Café Orient 27 Grand Majestic Plaza 68 Grosseto 24 Harddecore 63 Hard Rock Cafe 17 Hilton Prague 67 Hilton Prague Old Town 67 Home Kitchen 21 Hostel Franz Kafka 69 Hotel Century Old Town 68 Hradčany 36 Hunger Wall Residence 69 Hybernia 22 IF Café 27 In Loco 25 Jalta Hotel 68 Jáma 17 Jan Hus monument 43 Jewish Museum 45 Jewish Prague 32 Jihoměstský pivovar 29 J.J.Murphy’s 29 Josef 67 Jubilee Synagogue (Jerusalem Synagogue) 44 Kafíčko Café 27 Kafka Museum 49 Kafka's birthplace 49 Kampa Museum 40 Karel Zeman Museum 41 Karlovy Lázně 31 KFC 23 King Solomon 23 Klausen Synagogue 45 Klementinum 38 Kofein 22 Kotva 62 Kozička 29 Kozlovna Apropos 25 Krystal Mozaika Bistro 22 La Degustation 22 La Finestra in Cucina 23 Lapidarium 47 Lennon Wall 43 Le Palais 67 Letenské sady beer garden 30 Little Town Hotel 69 Lokál 19 Loreta 39

Loving Hut 25 Lucerna Music Bar 31 Luka Lu 18 Maisel Synagogue 45 Mamaison Suite Hotel Pachtův Palace Prague 68 Mánes Exhibition Hall 41 Manufaktura 62 Maximilian 68 McDonalds 23 Meat and Greet Burgerhouse 18 MIMINOO Garden Restaurant 20 Minute House 49 Mirror Labyrinth 42 Miss Sophie's 68 MOSAIC HOUSE 68 Mucha Museum 41 Municipal House 32 Museum of Communism 41 Myslbek 63 Náprstkovo Museum 47 National Memorial on Vítkov Hill 47 National Museum (New Building) 47 National Technical Museum 42 National Theatre 32 New Jewish Cemetery 49 NOI 25 Nota Bene 19 Novoměstský pivovar 29 Nový Smíchov 63 Oblaca Restaurant 20 Old Jewish Cemetery 45 Old New Synagogue 45 Old Royal Palace 36 Old Town Square 33 One room hotel 20 Ovocný Světozor 27 Palladium 63 Paneria 23 Parlor Cafes 27 pentahotel Prague 68 Petřín 42 Petřín Tower 42 Picture Gallery at Prague Castle 36 Pinkas Synagogue 45 Pivovarský dům 29 Pizza Nuova 24 Planetarium 64 Plus Prague 69 Plzeňská 19 Podolí 65 Potrefená Husa Národní 25 Powder Tower 36 Prague Beer Museum 29 Prague Castle 33 Prague City Tourism 39 Prague City Tourism - Airport 39 Prague City Tourism - Na Můstku 39 Prague Marriott 67 Prague Square Hostel 69 Prague TV Tower (Tower Park Prague) 20

Pražan beer garden 30 President 67 Riegrovy sady beer garden 30 Riverside Hotel Prague 67 Rocky O'Reilly's 30 Royal Gardens & Stag Moat 36 Rudolfinum 42 Salm Palace 37 Sax 69 Schwarzenberg Palace 37 Seaworld 64 Second courtyard 37 Sheraton Prague Charles Square Hotel 67 Sir Toby's 69 Slovanský Dům 63 South Gardens 37 Spanish Synagogue 45 Sparkys Palladium 63 Staropramen Brewery 38 Sternberg Palace 37 St. George's Basilica 37 St. Nicholas Church 39 Století 19 Stone Bell House 42 Strahov Monastery 33 St. Vitus Cathedral 37 Subway 23 T-Anker 30 Terryho Ponožky 63 Tesco MY 62 The Augustine 67 The Dancing House 41 The Emblem Hotel 67 The House at the Black Madonna 42 The ICON Hotel 68 The Mark Luxury Hotel Prague 67 The Nicholas Hotel Residence 69 Tower Park MiniGolf 20 Town Hall & Astronomical Clock 33 Toy Museum 42 Transport Museum 43 Treasury of St. Vitus Cathedral 37 U Emy Destinnové 20 U Fleků 29 U Maltézských rytířů 20 U Pinkasů 20 U Provaznice 20 U Zlaté studně 68 V. Andrle 62 Veletržní Palace 43 Victims of Communism Memorial 39 Villa Müller 43 V Kolkovně 25 Vyšehrad 33 V Zátiší 22 Wenceslas Square 33 Zdeněk's Oyster Bar 24 Žižkov Jewish Cemetery 45 Žluté lázně 64 Zoo Praha 64

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