Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Ljubljana December - February 2020

Issue Nº69 FREE COPY

Castle Christmas UNIQUE FESTIVE EXPERIENCES ABOVE THE CITY

29. 11. 2019 – 6. 1. 2020 More at

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SNOWSHOEING Caption text

HORSERIDING

TRIGLAV NATIONAL PARK

WINTER PARAGLIDING

POSTOJNA CAVE

Contents Arriving & Getting around 8

Sightseeing 45

Culture 11

Kids 53

Best of Ljubljana 16

Joys of Winter: Ski Resorts 54

Planes, trains, cars and e-bikes

Concerts, exhibitions and festivals

Best of the capital, voted by locals!

Old Town 19

Bridges, museums, the castle and more Fun activities for all the family

The best places to carve up the slopes

Leisure 56

Guide within a guide to the soul of the city

Escape rooms, VR and axe-throwing

Where to Eat 24

Where to go and what to buy

Everything from A to V(egetarian)

Gourmet Slovenia 36 There’s never been a better time to dine

Cafes 38 Coffee, tea, ice cream and cake in the capital

Nightlife 42 Dance and drink the night away

www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

Shopping 57 Where to Stay 65 Business suites to hostel bunks

Highlights of Slovenia 67 The best of what to visit outside Ljubljana

Directory 76

Embassies & Real Estate

Maps 78 December 2019 - February 2020

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Foreword If the calendar still reads 2019 when you’re reading this, then you’ve picked an excellent time to visit the Slovene capital, as the city’s Festive December celebrations transform the old town centre into an orgy of bright lights, mulled wine, roasted chestnuts and red-faced happy people. On the other hand, if it’s already 2020 then you’ve also picked an excellent time to visit, as you’ll practically have the streets to yourself during the January and February tourism doldrums.

As always we’ve packed this issue with as much useful information, including our regular special features covering Ljubljana’s impossibly pretty Old Town (p 19), a run down of the country’s best Gourmet restaurants (p 36) and the results of our 10th annual Best Nightlife competition (p 16), with locals choosing their favourite spots to drink, relax and party. In our Highlights of Slovenia section (p 67) you can find some great destinations that can easily be visited on a day trip or longer excursion, while skiers will want to check out Joys of Winter (p 54) to see the best places to hit the slopes on the sunny side of the Alps.

Now that our work is done, our only hope is that Mother Nature does her part and brings ample snow to the festivities, so our cover photo and all the other idyllic snowy shots we included don’t become bad decisions in hindsight. In any event, thanks for reading, and if you’ve got any feedback, we’d love to hear your thoughts on Facebook, Instagram or old-fashioned email.

COVER STORY We sincerely hate using the word ‘magical’ to describe places, but Ljubljana does indeed have a magical atmosphere when it’s blanketed with a fresh dusting of snow during the wintertime, and there’s really no more apt word to describe it.

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Publisher Ljubljana In Your Pocket Miklošičeva 38, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia Tel. +386 (0)30 316 601 ljubljana@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1855-3486 ©IQBATOR d.o.o.

Printed Abo grafika d.o.o., 6 times per year Editorial Editor Justine Dunn Writers Sco, James Cosier, John Bills, Yuri Barron, Justine Dunn Design Aleksandar Vukojević Maps UAB In Your Pocket Photography Shutterstock, www.slovenia.info & our partners Cover Photo Darja Štravs Tisu Sales & Circulation Stanka Parkelj Rozina, Petra Truglas, Sara Trost Copyright notice Content and photos copyright IQbator d.o.o. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket Editor’s bio British born Justine Dunn has enjoyed Ljubljana life for several years now and joined the In Your Pocket team in early 2018. When she’s not out and about in the city she can mostly be found hiking in the surrounding hills with her dog, George.

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Ljubljana Basics SYMBOL KEY

CLIMATE Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

30

150

20

120

10

90

0 -10 -20

J

F M A M J

J

A

S O N D

B Outside seating

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly

60

K Restaurant

J Old town location

30

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

CRIME & SAFETY Ljubljana is one of the safest capital cities in the world, with the only prevalent crime being bicycle theft, which is unlikely to affect short-term visitors (which we’ve also avoided by adorning our bicycle with flowers). Nowhere in the city is unsafe to walk at any hour, although common sense says avoid going deep into Tivoli park in the middle of the night. Out-of-control cyclists and negligent drivers not paying attention to pedestrians are the only real threat to safety, as well as slow-to-react automatic doors that seem to be installed in shops across Ljubljana, although these only really cause embarrassment.

DRINKING Alcohol can only be sold to people over 18, and sadly after 21:00 it cannot be bought in stores.

MONEY Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 eu-

FACTS & FIGURES Population Slovenia 2,062,455 (2014 estimate) Ljubljana 288,307 (2016 estimate) Area 20,273 square kilometres Ethnic composition Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%, Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% Official languages Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian Local time Central European (GMT + 1hr) Longest river Sava (221km in Slovenia) Highest mountain Triglav 2,864m.

Borders Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km, Croatia 670km www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

ros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses and a Jože Plečnik design.

SMOKING Cigarettes can only be purchased by people over 18. Slovenia recently banned smoking in public indoor places, except in special smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.

TOILETS Clean public toilets can be found at Dragon Bridge (07:00 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik Passageway west of Zvezda Park (07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) under Butcher’s Bridge (07:00 - 23:00) and at Triple Bridge (07:00 - 21:00).

EXCHANGE RATES €1 = US$1.11 = GBP 0.86 = HRK 7.44 = Дин. 117 = = TRY 6.31 = CHF 1.10 = CNY 7.78 = RBL 70.60 = = W 1305 = AU$ 1.63 = ¥ 120 (22.11.2019)

MARKET VALUES Product McDonald’s Big Mac Meal medium Slice of pizza Slice of burek Cup of coffee Bottle of name brand vodka Decent bottle of local wine Bottle of local beer in a shop Pint of beer in a pub Pack of cigarettes Single bus ride Movie ticket Litre of petrol Taxi ride across town

Price € 4.30 € 2.00 € 2.00 € 1.10 € 12.50 € 5.00 € 1.10 € 2.70 € 3.70 € 1.30 € 6.00 € 1.33 € 5.00

More information available online ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2019 - February 2020

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Arriving & Getting Around 20:00). Check the airport website for more information and schedules.QZgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 20 610 00, fax +386 (0)4 20 212 20, www.fraport-slovenija. si/. Open 00:00-24:00.

CAR RENTAL

With a well developed system of buses, trains and highways throughout the country, getting around Slovenia is fairly easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively small, meaning public transport is rarely, if ever, needed when in town.

The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90-100km/hr on main roads and 130km/hr on highways. Cars must use headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel, warning triangle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit, reflective vest and, in winter, either snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol limit is 0.05%, and EU residents should be aware that any fines and/ or driving licence points incurred whilst in Slovenia will theoretically follow you home. Slovenia’s network of motorways is still relatively new and well-maintained, and driving in the country is generally easy and far more convenient than relying on public transport. The traffic information centre has road webcams and maps of current traffic problems at www.promet.si.

AIRLINES

CYCLING

A relatively small handful of airlines fly in and out of Ljubljana, with, somewhat strangely, no direct connection with neighbouring Italy.

​ ith over 230km of good quality cycle paths, plenty of W parks and the right to cycle in the pedestrian zones in the city centre, it’s no surprise to learn that refreshingly flat Ljubljana regularly scores high on bicycle-friendly city lists.

Ljubljana is one of the world’s most cycle-friendly cities, thanks in part to the Bicikelj bike share system

AIRPORT LJUBLJANA AIRPORT Well connected to the Balkans and most major European destinations, Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km northwest of the city, is as small and efficient as the rest of the country. There’s free Wi-Fi for internet addicts, a buffetstyle restaurant, a couple of cafés, a bank with ATM, currency exchange office and a post office. Getting to the airport takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, timed to coincide with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00 and

A WORD FROM OUR MAYOR ‘For me, Ljubljana is the most beautiful city in the world - a capital unique for its special position in the heart of Slovenia. As a city with rich history and cultural heritage, it attracts more visitors every year from near and far. The most important ambassadors for Ljubljana are undoubtedly our residents, who immerse themselves in the mix of cultures and always ensure a touch of comfort and warmth with their openness, kindness and hospitality. Welcome to Ljubljana!’

Zoran Janković, Mayor 8 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

BICYCLE RENTAL As well as the venue listed here, bicycles are also available for rent the old-fashioned way between April and October from the Slovenian Tourist Information Centre on Krekov Trg. Rates are a very reasonable €2 for two hours or €8 for the whole day. More information can be found online at www.visitljubljana.com.

BICIKE(LJ) Ljubljana’s bicycle rental scheme, known as bicikeLJ, is a great way to get around the city. Some 61 stations with a total of 610 bikes are concentrated in centre of town, so don’t try riding to Šmarna Gora or elsewhere on the outskirts.

The trick is to make sure all your trips are under 60 minutes, in which case all you need to pay is the ridiculously cheap registration fee of €1 a week or €3 a year. Registration must be carried out in advance with a major credit card on the very user-friendly official website en.bicikelj.si, which is also conveniently in English.QD‑5, www.ljubljana.si.

LONG-DISTANCE BUSES Ljubljana is host to a wide range of long-distance buses traveling all over the country and beyond.

BUS STATION (AVTOBUSNO POSTAJALIŠČE) Essentially a large caravan without wheels, Ljubljana’s temporary Bus Station couldn’t be easier to use. Enter through one of the doors at either end, buy a ticket at one of the ticket offices and away you go. A hub for all ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around major national and many international routes, besides buying bus tickets and getting information about bus transport here you can also get special deals on tickets to all major tourist destinations in Slovenia. Full schedules and other tourist information can be found on their website.QD‑3, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 4, tel. 1991 (from Slovene numbers only)/+386 (0)1 23 44 600, www. ap-ljubljana.si. Open 05:00-22:30; Sun 05:30-22:30; Sat 05:00-22:00.

PETROL STATIONS With some 300 modern locations across Slovenia, from key points on all major highways and larger towns to tiny isolated villages in the countryside, the large Petrol chain operates the largest network of service stations in the country.

The larger stations are open around the clock, which not only makes for added convenience on longer drives, but also for late night trips for food, drinks, tobacco or other essential items when everything else in town is closed. In addition to the above-mentioned goods and supplies, you can also purchase concert, sports and other event tickets at the checkout, with the larger locations even having fully fledged restaurants operated by Marché offering a wide selection of high quality snacks and meals. Most employees speak English (and often a third language), and all major debit and credit cards are accepted. For more information, including a full map of the entire Petrol network, visit www. petrol.eu.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Although most of Ljubljana’s sights are within easy walking distance for even the most unfit or laziest of people, the city possesses fairly efficient bus network for reaching attractions further afield such as the Zoo, BTC City and even distant Šmarna Gora. Although you may still be lucky enough to see one or two Tito-era antiques plying the roads, the entire fleet is currently being modernised, so most of the time you can expect a comfortable ride. Schedules are displayed at all stops, and fares can only be paid using an Urbana Card or a Slovene mobile phone.

A TICKET TO DRIVE Slovenia requires all motor vehicles travelling on its highways to have a vinjeta sticker. This system exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can be easily obtained at nearly all petrol stations and kiosks. Yearly/monthly/weekly stickers cost €110/30/15 for cars and yearly/half-yearly/ weekly ones are €55/30/7.50 for motorcycles. Also be aware that the border police will likely not remind you to purchase a vinjeta when entering the country, but are extremely likely to issue you with a steep fine when leaving if you’ve failed to do so. For more information, check www.dars.si.

RIDE SHARING The Slovene version of BlaBlaCar without the stupid name (it just means ‘transport’ in Slovene, although according to Google translate it does mean ‘seduction’ in Russian), since time immemorial Prevoz.org has been the preferred method for students and other budget travellers to get around Slovenia faster and cheaper than public transport. And the same applies for those travelling to or from neighbouring countries or any former Yugoslav states - we frequently use it to get between Ljubljana and Belgrade, as the €25-30 cost and five-hour journey time can’t be beat. Perhaps the only downside is that the site is only in Slovene, but is no obstacle that Chrome’s auto-translate feature can’t overcome, and you also need to register or link your Google account to be able to see the contact numbers of the drivers.

TAXIS Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable. The starting rate is usually between €0.80 and €1.50 with a per kilometre rate of between €0.70 and €1.70 after that depending on the company, time of day and number of pas-

KAVALIR Primarily intended for use by the elderly and the mobilityimpaired, these little green electric wizards can be hailed for free transport anywhere within the pedestrianised city centre. Carrying up to five passengers, the little monsters reach terrifying speeds of up to 25km/hr, so strap in tight.

In all seriousness though, the electric free taxi is another example of Ljubljana’s commitment to its ecological future.

Three cars run during the winter.QD‑5, www.ljubljana.si.

LPP (LJUBLJANSKI POTNIŠKI PROMET) Ljubljana’s urban and suburban public transport company. There are LPP ticket sales offices at Slovenska 56 (Bavarski Dvor), Celovška 160 and the central bus station.

QD‑4, Slovenska 56, tel. +386 (0)14 30 51 74, www.lpp. si. Open 07:00-19:00; closed Sun, Sat. www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

A free ride in the pedestrianised old town is even more appealing during the cold, wet winter months, photo by D. Wedam / Ljubljana Tourism

December 2019 - February 2020

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Arriving & Getting Around sengers. Waiting usually costs from between €15 and €20 per hour. Ordering a taxi by telephone will get you lower rates for longer distance trips.

CAMMEO Cammeo’s aim is to make transporting you around the city, or further afield, an easy, stress free way to travel, simply download the app to get started. They have a one fare price of 0,85€/km and you can choose your preferred payment method of cash, card or via the app, it couldn’t be easier! If additional assistance is needed, wheelchair transport, baby seats, or your four-legged friend is travelling with you, that’s no problem. Simply call ahead and all your requirements can be met. Once you start using Cammeo you’ll also be rewarded with some great bonuses like discount codes to share with your friends. Cammeo’s team of reliable and professional drivers are ready and waiting for you.

Qtel. +386 1 777 12 12, www.cammeo.si.

TRAINS Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) does an admirable job of running an efficient network with clean modern

URBANA CARD In order to use Ljubljana’s extensive public bus network, you must first purchase an Urbana Card. What is an Urbana card, we hear you cry? Available from the LPP office, tourist information centres and most of the kiosks and post offices in town, this little yellow card costs €2 and can store up to €50 of credit on it at any time. In order to top it up, you can do so at any of the spots mentioned above or at the excellently named Urbanomat machines, which are the green things next to most bus stops. These machines accept both cash and credit and debit cards. Once you’ve topped up your card, using it couldn’t be easier. Simply get on the bus of your choice, touch the card to one of the green card readers at the entrance and €1.30 will be deducted from your card, €1.30 which allows for up to 90 minutes of travel including unlimited transfers. The Urbana works in much the same way as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass, at a fraction of the price of course.QD‑4.

PARKING GARAGES PH KAPITELJ QE‑5, Poljanski Nasip 4, tel. +386 (0)1 400 60 70/+386 (0)51 366 510, www.parkiraj.si.

PH MEKSIKO QF‑4, Njegošova 8, tel. +386 (0)1 600 40 38/+386 (0)51 366 510, www.parkiraj.si.

PH ŠENTPETER QF‑5, Zaloška 1, tel. +386 (0)1 400 60 24/+386 (0)51 366 510, www.parkiraj.si.

PH TRDINOVA QD‑4, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 (0)1 600 40 67/+386 (0)51 366 510, www.parkiraj.si.

Open 00:00 - 24:00. From 06:00-18:00 up to €1.90 one hour, every additional hour €2.40, from 18:0006:00 €1.2 every hour. Daily rate €25, while monthly fees are as low as €150. trains that are usually on time. Their website at www.slozeleznice.si contains a wealth of information in English, including live information on train delays as well as an online timetable.

Ljubljana’s clean and easy-to-use Train Station is near the centre and has plenty of signs and information in English.

TRANSFERS MAMUT SLOVENIJA TOURS & TRANSFERS Take the hassle out of transport and allow Mamut Slovenija to get you comfortably from A to B swiftly and safely.

Whether you’re arriving by plane, train or bus they’ll meet and greet you at your arranged pick up point, they are reliable and easy on the pocket. Not only do they provide arrival and departure transfers they also specialise in guided tours so you can visit some of Slovenia’s top tourist attractions without getting involved with public transport systems. Other destinations are available on request so they can assist you with creating your perfect trip when visiting Slovenia.QTrg Osvobodilne fronte 13, tel. +386 (0)40 433 331, www.www.slovenija.eu.com.

Taxi

10 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Atelje Galerija has been promoting contemporary arts and artists for more than 20 years at its cosy riverside space. Read more on page 14.

CHRISTMAS 29.11 - 06.01 » CASTLE FESTIVE FAIR

This December Ljubljana Castle is organising it’s very own festive fair, with a series of diverse events including live concerts at the castle’s own Jazz Club, a festive dance, performances for children, a Christmas Mass, a nativity scene, several exhibitions and lots more! And since it’s the Christmas season all of these happenings will be made all the more festive with the decorations in the castle courtyard, where visitors can taste festive cuisine, hot drinks and other tasty treats. Perhaps best of all, admission is free, so you can use your hard-earned Euros to purchase some Christmas gifts for loved ones from the special holiday line available at the castle shop.QD‑6, Ljubljana Castle, Grajska Planota 1, tel. +386 (0)1 306 42 93, www.ljubljanskigrad. si/en/castle-events/castle-festive-fair-2/.

29.11 - 05.01 » FESTIVE DECEMBER

The festively decorated old city centre will see a range of different events intended for people of all ages and different tastes. The festival officially began on December 1st with the event entitled Ljubljana’s Festive Lights Switchon Event, with the turning on of the Christmas street lights that more or less blanket the old town. It culminates on 31 December in the open-air New Year’s Eve celebrations taking place in Ljubljana’s central squares, with views towards the castle and a massive fireworks display. A full programme of events and happenings can be found on Tourism Ljubljana’s website (www.visitljubljana.com).QD‑5, Prešeren Square, www.visitljubljana.com.

EXHIBITIONS 14.11 - 09.02 » BIO26: 26TH LJUBLJANA BIENNIAL OF DESIGN

Back for its 26th edition, we weren’t at the first BIO back in 1963, which was also the first design biennial in Europe, but we’ve attended all the recent ones and have always www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

been impressed. Organised by the Museum of Architecture and Design the BIO brings together multidisciplinary international teams of innovators and designers, who develop concepts, products and solutions aimed at meeting the needs of and reshaping modern society. The resulting exhibition is always thought provoking. Running from 14 Nov till 9 Feb next year, BIO also hosts a range of lectures, workshops, exhibitions and other events, so check out the official programme while you’re in town.QN‑4, Museum of Architecture & Design, Rusjanov Trg 7, tel. +386 (0)1 548 42 70, www.bio.si.

14.11 - 30.08 » BOOK. KNOWLEDGE. REASON.

Focusing on the period between 1500 and 1800, the exhibition highlights some of the biggest social changes that transformed Ljubljana. These include the rise of the Jesuit college education, the start of women’s education in the Ursuline monastery and the Enlightenment movement led by cultural innovator Baron Žiga Zois, whose wheelchair is one of the exhibits.QC‑6, City Museum of Ljubljana, Gosposka 15, tel. +386 (0)1 241 25 00, www.mgml.si.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

10.10 - 24.05 » COPTIC TEXTILES FROM THE MUSEUM COLLECTION

The collection of the picturesque Coptic textiles is certainly one that stands out from the many collections of the National Museum of Slovenia. These 53 textiles are the work of the Copts - the Christian population in Egypt. They testify to the wide variety of supports and decorations adorning tunics, shawls, and upholstery from the 3rd century to the period following the Arab conquests of Egypt in the late 7th century. Coptic textiles are kept and displayed in various museums worldwide and have been the subject of numerous scientific researches, discussions and exhibitions. However, as new scientific findings have brought about changes in some longstanding interpretations.QF‑4, National Museum of Slovenia (Metelkova), Maistrova 1, tel. +386 (0)1 230 70 30, www.nms.si. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. December 2019 - February 2020

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Culture & Events

22.10 - 26.01 » JAKA BABNIK: PIGMALION

The myth of Pygmalion and Galatea, from Book 10 of Ovid’s Metamorphoses, can be regarded as a symbolic thread running through artist Jaka Babnik’s latest exhibition project. The myth has been recreated many times in literature, painting, sculpture and popular culture, no doubt due to the universal social themes contained within it. While the exhibition is not in any way a direct appropriation of the myth of Pygmalion and Galatea. Rather, the myth serves as a symbolic backdrop, facilitating in both substantive and formal terms a reflection on the relationship that invariably arises between the chosen object, its photographic image, and the space in which they are viewed.QC‑6, Galerija Jakopič, Slovenska 9, tel. +386 1 4254 096, www.mgml.si/sl/ galerija-jakopic/. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon.

09.05 - 31.12 » LJUBLJANA. HISTORY. CITY.

In our globalised world, heritage just might be what differentiates cities the most, and it has also shaped our capital’s identity. Thus, the new permanent exhibition Ljubljana.

History. City. proudly highlights local peculiarities, stories of everyday life in the past, and the individuals who left the strongest impressions on Ljubljana’s history. QC‑6, City Museum of Ljubljana, Gosposka 15, tel. +386 (0)1 241 25 00, www.mgml.si/en/city-museum/exhibitions/273/ ljubljana-history-city/. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 21:00. Closed Mon.

27.11 - 23.12 » LAST CHRISTMAS I GAVE YOU MY ART

Presenting the works of more than a dozen artists from the region, including both young, up-and-coming ones as well as established household names of the art world, this exhibition at the Ravnikar Gallery Space not only guarantees to get Wham!’s famed Christmas pop classic stuck in your head, but is also a great opportunity to pick up some original gifts for your loved ones (or yourself).

QB‑5, Ravnikar Gallery Space, Prešernova 10a, www. ravnikargallery.space. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:0014:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

06.12 - 13.12.20. » MY FEET. MY SHOES. MY WAY.

An intriguing exhibition dedicated to the coexistence of feet and footwear, their variable shapes and meanings in space and time, and to their roles in the organization of the individual’s own world. The exhibition narrative reveals many aspects of footwear beyond its material form and numerous questions that exceed the apparent self-evidence of our daily choices and uses.QF‑4, Slovene Ethnographic Museum, Metelkova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 300 87 00, www. etno-muzej.si. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon.

FESTIVALS 05.02 - 07.02 » MENT FESTIVAL

MENT Ljubljana, the winter club event with a summer fes-

Ljubljana

www.ment.si

5.–7. 2. 2020 12 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events tival vibe, an international aspect and local character, will host more than 70 performers from around Europe from 5-7 February at various venues across Ljubljana. ​It will also attract talented and experienced music professionals to a concurrent conference. MENT focuses on new music forces and genres, including Icelandic hip-hop, Serbian psychedelia, Lithuanian jazz electronica or avant garde Slovenian pop. Head to the official website to find the full line-up and additional information.QK‑3, Kino Šiška, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)1 500 30 00, www.ment.si.

BIO 26

SPECIAL EVENTS 08.02 » PREŠEREN DAY

Being the finest poet in the Slovenian language and undisputed national hero is of course enough to earn you a permanent place on the calendar. Slovenia’s national day of culture, or Prešernov Dan (Prešeren’s Day) to the locals, means that the 8th of February is a work-free day (although this year it falls on a Saturday), and most museums and galleries in Ljubljana open their doors and waive their admission fees. Meanwhile, the Prešeren Awards and Prešeren Foundation Awards give the highest Slovenian recognition for scientific and cultural achievements, while the old city of Kranj, in the great man’s native region (Gorenjska), leads the celebrations with a street festival in his honour.QD‑5, France Prešeren Monument, Prešernov trg.

ART GALLERIES These are some of the city’s more established smaller galleries, most of which have art available for sale. For information on larger galleries and museums, take a look at our Sightseeing section.

DOBRAVAGA One of the most unique arts venues in the city, DobraVaga is a combination exhibition and project space, sales gallery, pen artists’ studio and lively café, whose programme is focussed the younger generation of local artists. Its name, which is derived from an old Slovene expression meaning ‘add a little more [to the scales]’, as well as its slogan ‘art by the pound’ and even its logo of a fish swimming into a picture frame, all cheekily allude to both the the overall concept behind the project and the space itself (in the beautiful Plečnik-designed arcade next to the fish market). While the art on display isn’t literally sold by its weight, the artists’ work and creative process are valued more than their name, and there is always a wide variety of different works on display, with prices starting at less than €10.QD‑5, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 5, tel. +386 (0)30 310 106, www.dobravaga.si. Open 09:00-18:00, Fri 09:00-24:00, Sat 09:18:00.

GALERIJA FOTOGRAFIJA QD‑6, Levstikov trg 7, tel. +386 (0)1 25 11 529, www. galerijafotografija.si. Open 10:00-14:00,17:00-21:00,andbyappointment; closed Sun. www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

December 2019 - February 2020

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Culture & Events EVENTS IN DECEMBER 2-8 - Animateka Film Festival @ Various 6-8 - Pocket’s Vaudeville @ Pocket Theatre 8 - Vlado Kreslin @ Cankarjev Dom 10-14 - Nutcracker @ SNG Opera 12 - Gwar @ Kino Šiška 12 - Guns n Roses Experience @ Cvetličarna 13 - My Baby @ Kino Šiška

EDITOR’S PICK ATELJE GALERIJA Atelje Galerija first opened its doors in 1998 in the picturesque building on Gallusovo nabrežje along the Ljubljanica waterfront. The concept of the gallery is based on the presentation of artists working in the field of contemporary visual art of which they exhibit four or five of each year. Exhibitions include works of painters, sculptors, photographers and designers in various artificial and natural materials. They aim to help establish young artists of contemporary visual art and promote the style to a wider audience through inter-gallery cooperation and integration in the Slovenian and international environment.QD‑6, Gallusovo Nabrežje 29, tel. +386 (0)1 421 3450, www.ateljegalerija.si.

20 - Xmas Artish @ Kucha 20 - Mesečnica Cabaret @ CSKF Prešeren 20 - Umek @ Kurzschluss 21 - Severina @ Stožice 21 - Glitterbox w/ Roger Sanche @ Kurzschluss 22 - Senidah @ Kurzschluss 25 - Magnifico @ Stožice 27 - Best Beers of 2019 @ Že v Redu Primož 27 - Balkan Boys @ Ljubljana Castle 27-30 - Great Gatsby @ SNG Opera

EVENTS IN JANUARY 17 - Crvena Jabuka @ Cvetličarna 18-25 - Maid of Orléans @ SNG Opera 28-30 - Elvis Fever @ Festival Dvorana 29-1 Feb - Alpe Adria @ LJ Convention Centre 30-2 Feb - Sleeping Beauty @ SNG Opera

EVENTS IN FEBRUARY 4 - Tina Turner Story @ LJ Convention Centre 7 - Dalmatinski Spektakel @ Stožice 12 - Comet is Coming @ Kino Šiška 14 - Sparkling Wine Salon @ Hotel Slon 21 - 5K HD @ Kino Šiška 14 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

GALERIJA JAKOPIČ (JAKOPIČ GALLERY) Named for noted Slovene impressionist painter RihardCJakopič and designed by Jože Plečnik disciple and acclaimed 20th century architect, Edvard Ravnikar, the Jakopič Gallery has been one of Ljubljana’s most important contemporary art spaces since it first opened in 1988. Its exhibitions cover a diverse fields, from visual arts, design and architecture to performance and media art, but in recent years has especially focussed on photography, presenting must-see exhibitions from Lee Miller, Josef Koudelka and Sebastião Salgado among others. Located in the city centre on the site of the Roman Forum, the unique subterranean exhibition space includes reconstructed ancient ruins and is an attraction in its own right.QC‑6, Slovenska 9, +386 1 4254 096, www.mgml.si/en/jakopic-gallery/. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. KAPELICA GALLERY QC‑4, Kersnikova 4, tel. +386 (0)40 21 22 92, www. kapelica.org. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Sun, Sat. RAVNIKAR GALLERY SPACE (R-SPACE) QB‑5, Prešernova 10a, www.ravnikargallery.space.

Open 16:00-19:00; Fri 12:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. ŠKUC GALLERY QD‑6, Stari Trg 21, tel. +386 (0)1 251 6540, www. galerijaskuc.si/. Open 13:00-21:00; closed Mon.

CINEMAS Foreign films are usually screened in their original language with Slovene subtitles, except for children’s films which are usually dubbed. With the exception of large Hollywood blockbusters, films tend to open later than they do in many larger countries, so don’t be surprised to see posters advertising something already screened at home months earlier.

Expect to pay €5 and up for a ticket.

KINODVOR QD‑4, Kolodvorska 13, tel. +386 (0)1 239 22 17, www. kinodvor.org. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events KOLOSEJ QM‑3, Šmartinska 152, tel. +386 (0)1 810 71 01, www. kolosej.si. A­P­G­X­T­U­B­I­S­W­K­H­O­i SLOVENSKA KINOTEKA QD‑4, Miklošičeva 28, tel. +386 (0)1 43 42 510, www. kinoteka.si.

CULTURAL CENTRES KINO ŠIŠKA (URBAN CULTURAL CENTRE) One of the city’s most iconic cinemas reopened its doors in 2009 as an urban cultural centre featuring several stateof-the-art performance halls and exhibition spaces. Dedicated to promoting contemporary music, theatre, dance and experimental events, it already attracts big-name regional and international artists, and is scheduled to hosts around 200 events per year. Most concerts are held in its largest multi-purpose hall, dubbed ‘the Cathedral’, which can fit over 932 people. Check out their English language website for more info and a full schedule of events.QK‑3, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)1 500 30 00, www.kinosiska.si. P­B­E­L­H OPERA & BALLET LJUBLJANA The history of opera in Slovenia dates all the way back to 1732, but the current headquarters of the National Opera and Ballet Theatre were constructed in the late 19th century. First designed in the neo-renaissance style by Czech architects, it has recently been renovated and extended, creating a controversial blend of tradition and modernity.

An extensive program of classics and modern operas, as well as ballets and concerts works can be found on its stage.QC‑5, Župančičeva 1, tel. +386 1 24 15 959/+386 1 24 15 900, www.opera.si.

BEARTANGEL This little gallery on Gornji trg in Ljubljana’s old town is the peaceful sanctuary of local artist Božidar A. Koleric, who paints under the moniker of BeArtAngel. Kolerič has spent his life exploring creativity and life energy, ideals conveyed in this latest endeavours.

These world-renowned paintings are said to represent unseen energies and can give a helping hand in achieving inner peace. Such lofty artistic ideals might be a little confusing, but Božidar himself is on hand to happily explain the meaning behind the project.

Handmade crystal water bottles are also available to purchase here, with a wide selection of crystals and other accessories on offer. Check the website for more information.QD‑6, Gornji Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)41 764 352, www.beartangel.si. Wed - Fri 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Open also by prior arrangement.

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December 2019 - February 2020

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Best Bar 1. Captain's Cabin 2. Centralna Postaja 3. Kavarna Kino Šiška 4. Žmauc 5. Pritličje

Best Live Music Venue 1. Cvetličarna 2. Čin Čin 3. Slamič 4. Prulček 5. Solist 5. Jazz Paradise

Best Alternative Nightlife 1. Tiffany 2. Gala Hala 3. Ambasada 4. Menza pri Koritu 5. Channel Zero 5. Jalla Jalla

Best Pub 1. Cutty Sark 2. Sax Pub 2. Parlament Pub 4. Pivnica Union 5. Plečnik Pub

Best Lounge Bar 1. Kavarna Rog 2. Sputnik 3. Makalonca 4. As Aperitivo 5. Soba 102

Best Late Night Leisure 1. Biljardna Hiša Ljubljana 2. Kolosej 3. Klub 300 4. Casino Lev 5. Biljardna Kaval

Best Club 1. Cirkus 2. Orto Bar 3. Klub K4 4. Shooters 5. Božidar

Best Wine Bar 1. Dvorni Bar 2. Vinoteka Movia 3. TaBar 4. Strelec Wine Bar 5. eVino

Best Adult Entertainment 1. Escape 2. Hard Core Club 2. Rocco 4. Fantazija 5. District 35

WITH SUPPORT OF: E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

www.inyourpocket.com

www.the-slovenia.com

Best of Ljubljana 2019 As Aperitivo

District 35

Čopova 5a (Knafljev Prehod)

Stegne 35

One of the city’s more glamorous bars in which to grab a drink, find DJs, cocktails and a lively atmosphere most nights of the week.

Slovenia’s largest gay sauna can be found tucked away in the district of Stegne, just off the ring road in the north of the city.

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Biljardna Hiša

Dvorni Bar

Slovenska 58

Dvorni Trg 2

Ljubljana’s most popular, and our personal favourite, classic pool hall now has second location in the centre of town.

This large establishment is a pleasant café during the day and a trendy wine bar at night with over 100 varieties of wine in stock.

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Captain’s Cabin

Escape

Ključavničarska 5

Grablovičeva 1

A lively bar with a nautical theme located in the heart of the Old Town with a huge range of beers and some great cocktails.

There’s a small stage for striptease here, but lap dances and private personal attention are the real focuses here.

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Cirkus

Kavarna Rog

Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 7

Petkovškovo Nabrežje 67

One the of the more popular clubs in Ljubljana with lots of themed nights, live DJs and photo albums posted to their Facebook page.

One of the few cafés in town where you can find a proper breakfast alongside some decent coffee to get you started in the morning.

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Cutty Sark

Parlament Pub

Knafljev Prehod 1

Šubičeva 1

One of the most popular bars in the city, frequented by all manner of locals and expats.

This peculiar oddity with its shady characters and students is nonetheless a popular stop for the heavy drinking younger crowd.

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Cvetličarna

Strelec Wine Bar

Kranjčeva 20

Grajska Planota 1

More a concert hall than a club, this is a good place to check out during the weekends.

Sample some of Slovenia’s superb wines in the castle’s newest and coolest venue overlooking the city.

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Daktari

Tiffany

Krekov Trg 7

Masarykova cesta 24

A labour of love that attracts an artistic crowd of all ages, this fine bar features antique furniture and lots of cultural events.

Ljubljana’s premier gay club since the early 1990s, in addition to weekly club nights the space also plays host to a huge variety of events.

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December 2019 - February 2020

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P. I. Čajkovski ⁄ P. I. Tchaikovsky

Devica Orleanska The Maid of Orléans Dirigent ⁄ Conductor: SIMON KREČIČ Režiser ⁄ Stage Director: FRANK VAN LAECKE

�8. �. – 4. 2. 2020

Oblikovanje: Ivan Ilić / 0.�0 Büro | Fotografija: Peter Giodani

Nuška Drašček Rojko

Viktor Barlič

Ljubljana Old Town It’s hard not to smile when you arrive in Ljubljana old town. It is often referred to as the most picturesque part of the city and it’s hard to disagree. Soak up the laid back atmosphere and take a stroll around. You’ll find souvenir and boutique stores that will lure you through the door with their charming window displays, plus a fabulous choice of restaurants, cafes and wine bars. The stunning architecture and fountains give endless photo opportunities, and on a guided walking tour you can learn all about the area’s rich history. It’s easy to see why this part of town appeals to all its visitors. www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

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Old Town page 22

1 NAMA department store Tomšičeva ulica 2, 1000 Ljubljana Opening hours: Monday to Saturday: 9.00 - 21.00

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TRADITIONAL SLOVENIAN AND LJUBLJANA DISHES  Ciril Metodov trg 14, 1000 Ljubljana  01 620 98 84

 Gostilna Pri kolovratu  info@kolovrat.si

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Restavracija z avtohtonim pridihom slovenske Istre.

Stari trg 19, 1000 Ljubljana

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NAMASTE - Indian restaurant Breg 8, 1000 Ljubljana T: +386(0)1 425 0159 E: info@restavracija-namaste.si W: www.restavracija-namaste.si

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LJUBLJANA OLD TOWN VIKTOR BARLIČ

This family-run enterprise has been producing high quality handmade leather goods since first opening its doors on Mestni Trg back in 1954. Nowadays the third generation of the Barlič family specialises in the design and creation of original handbags and other leather accessories, combining traditional handmade methods with modern fashion trends. No two bags are exactly alike and the selection changes weekly, making this is the perfect shop for those who take pride in being unique. A carefully chosen range of imported women’s footwear is also available, as are the award-winning, animal-friendly Save the Duck line of jackets.QD‑6, Mestni Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)1 251 2908, www.barlic.si. Open 10:00 - 19:00; Sat 10:00 - 14:00; Sun 11:00-15:00.

NAMASTE

Set along the beautifully redeveloped Breg riverside walk in the Old Town, Namasté is the oldest surviving Indian restaurant in all of Slovenia and offers one of Ljubljana’s most romantic dining experiences of any flavour. With its soft, yellow-hued lighting, hand-painted walls and a relaxed atmosphere, the house specialties on offer here are from the Rajasthan and Punjab regions, are prepared individually with spices directly imported from the subcontinent and can be ordered from mild to extra hot. Sometimes we like to stop by just to savour a cup of spicy masala chai.QD-6, Breg 8 +386 (0)1 425 01 59, info@restavracija-namaste.si, www.restavracija-namaste.si. Open 11:00 - 22:00; Sun 11:00 - 21:15.

CAFÉ PLATO

A stylish café with a wide selection of ice creams, pastries and excellent cakes that almost look too good to eat. Located in the heart of the city, Plato has a unique glass wall and a lovely outdoor seating area that is a prime spot for people-watching on sunny afternoons. Check their Facebook page for daily specials and events, plus mouth-watering photos of all the delicious things they have to tempt you over. Plato also has a restaurant on its top floor, so if you feel like a bit more than a snack head on up and enjoy a delicious meal.

QC-4, Ajdovščina 1, +386 (0)1 230 84 81, www.plato.si. Open 07:00-23:00, Sat 08:00-23:00; closed Sun.

NAMA

The oldest shopping centre in Ljubljana, Nama has recently been renovated and, with its prime location, continues to be one of the most vibrant shops the centre has to offer. One of the icons of the city and a popular place to meet and enjoy time together, Nama offers a variety of products, ranging from gourmet food to leading fashion, and showcases both Slovene and foreign brands.QC-5, Tomšičeva 2, tel. +386 (0)1 425 83 00, www.nama.si. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Sun.

ČOKOLADNICA CUKRČEK

A charming, family-run business with several shops in the city, the latest by the river at Ciril Metodov trg 19, Cokoladnica Cukrcek has been delighting adults and children for well-over a decade. Among the many fine examples of chocolate for sale include special Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered in chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with salt.QD-6, Ciril Metodov trg 19, tel. +386 (0) 59 04 60 20, www.cukrcek.si. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-20:00.

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Located just steps from Prešeren Square, fashion-minded visitors will find plenty to discover at Saloon Concept Store. Read more below.

VODNIKOV HRAM

Dating back to the 19th century, Vodnikov Hram is one of the oldest restaurants in Ljubljana and named after Valentin Vodnik, the first renowned Slovenian poet and journalist. Here you can taste the flavours of original recipes from the very first Slovenian cook book, which was also written by Vodnik. The seasonal menu offers international cuisine and a selection of lighter bites made with fresh local ingredients. It’s found in a charming old building at the foot of the funicular and dining under its vaulted brick ceilings is a lovely experience.QD-5, Vodnikov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0) 30 379 966, www.vodnikov-hram.si. Open Mon - Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

JET BAR

We’re not entirely sure how, but Jet Bar has managed to put together an interior with a very clear theme that manages to be subtle and elusive at the very same time. As the name suggests, all things relating to the world of aviation are celebrated, with the propeller-like fans a particularly nice touch. Beers, coffees, cocktails and more are on offer, as well as pleasant outdoor seating perfect for the day and plenty of dance space for the evenings.QC-5, Šubičeva 1, tel. +386 (0) 8 381 16 20, www.facebook.com/jetbarljubljana. Open daily 06:00; Mon & Tue 06:00-01:00; Sat 06:00 - 04:00, Sun closed.

DVORNI BAR

Perennial winners of our Best Wine Bar poll, this large L-shaped adventure is a pleasant café during the day and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. There’s a swanky jazzy area at one end for more wine-oriented patrons, while the other side is a little more geared towards the restaurant crowd, with tapas and lunch specials on offer. With upwards of 100 varieties of wine in stock it’s a great place to sample local vintages if you don’t have time to trek out to one of Slovenia’s wine growing regions.QC-6, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. +386 1 251 12 57, www. dvornibar.net. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

SALOON CONCEPT STORE

Super stylish clothing for today’s fashion conscious women. At the boutique store on Ljubljana’s trendiest street, Trubarjeva, you’ll find a range of clothing and accessories by local young designers whose fresh ideas will bring a hit of swagger to your wardrobe. The company champions Slovenian designers and aims to promote their work not only through their creations but also connecting them directly with their customers. They like to maintain the personal touch and invite customers to learn more about what goes on behind the scenes at the store and get to know the designers. Keep up with them via social media and be a step ahead with the latest collections.QD-5, Trubarjeva 8, www. saloon.si. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-13:00; closed Sun. www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

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Where Where to to Eat Eat

Open 7/7 by prior arrangement

Although Slovenia doesn’t possess any Michelin-starred restaurants, its location between Italy, Austria and the Balkans ensures that dining out in Ljubljana is almost always an extremely satisfying and pleasantly affordable experience. Surplus to the many gourmet options the city has to offer, the Slovene capital’s restaurants represent pretty much every kitchen of the world, although if you’ve only got a limited amount of time on your hands we recommend you stick to the local cuisine which is not only mouth-wateringly magnificent but also still hard to find outside of the country.

SLOVENIAN GOSTILNA PRI GORJANCU Officially opened for business in 1813, Gorjanc is one of the longest running traditional Slovenian restaurants in and around Ljubljana, although at the same time it’s also one of the newest having undergone extensive restoration and modernisation a while back. Along with the standard hearty Slovene fare, such as blood sausages and sauerkraut with pork fat cracklings, the menu makes room for various refined fish, pasta, salad and other gourmet dishes. During the working week there’s lunch specials on offer that can be seen in advance on their website.QH‑5, Tržaška 330, tel. +386 (0)1 423 11 11, www.gdesignhotel.si. Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. A­P­X­T­B­S­L­ 6­W­K GOSTILNA PRI KOLOVRATU A restaurant since 1836 and offering traditional Ljubljana 24 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

dishes including slow-cooked veal and Vodnik salad from the first Slovenian cookbook published in 1799, also find daily specials showing the more Mediterranean side of Slovenian cooking. With everything very reasonably priced for the Old Town location just opposite the Cathedral, if you don’t have time for a meal we recommend trying some of the coffee or hot chocolate drinks along with a cake or dessert which are among the best in the city. Whatever you order, in good weather be sure to check out the little courtyard at the back.QD‑5, Ciril-Metodov Trg 14, tel. +386 (0)1 620 98 84, www.gostilnaprikolovratu@ gmail.com. Open 10:00-22:00. A­P­T­B­E­J­K GOSTILNA PRI TRUBARJEVI MAMI In order to produce good food fit to represent a nation, passion is of optimum importance. Taking their influence from Primoz Trubar (the writer of the first Slovene book) and in particular his love of food, Gostilna pri Trubarjevi Mami, literally, Trubar’s Mother’s Inn, is dripping in the stuff. The 16th century cuisine is draped in a modern styling courtesy of acclaimed young chef Mojmir Šiftar (the head chef at the Gault & Millau awarded Evergreen), all the while staying true to what made the original so special. Part of the Kaval group of eateries, this is tradition as its finest!QDunajska 10 (Ljubljana Convention Centre), tel. +386 (0) 1 300 27 00, www.kaval-group.si. Open 11:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. GOSTILNA ŠESTICA Šestica has been in business since 1776 and is an ideal setting to explore traditional Slovene cuisine. All the famous ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Where to Eat dishes are on the menu, along with many less well-known items and wines from each of the country’s regions as well as a food prepared in a wood-fired oven and on a grill. As the oldest restaurant in town it’s long-played host to local artists, writers and politicians and in addition to the central dining area has a set of smaller rooms and corners to relax and discuss business or pleasure in. We usually head to one of the backroom tables to enjoy a steak helped along few glasses of Teran. Find it just across from the Neboticnik skyscraper.QC‑5, Slovenska cesta 40, tel. +386 (0)1 242 0855, www.sestica.si. Open 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0017:00; Sat 12:00-23:00.

GRAND CAFÉ LJUBLJANA Plečnik’s Arcade has long been one of our favourite places in Ljubljana, both for its gorgeous aesthetic appeal as well as the delightful local shops and cafés that call it home.

The Grand Cafe Ljubljana is just another great reason to swing by. Their menu has something for everyone; hearty breakfasts, light mid-day lunches and superb evening dining, all prepared with locally sourced organic ingredients. Seafood lovers, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays are especially for you. Quality, super-fresh oysters and other ocean delights are the perfect way to welcome in the weekend. Assuming you’ve kept a little space, be sure to finish your meal with a slice of the iconic Torta Ljubljana.

QD‑5, Adamič Lundrovo Nabrežje 1, tel. +386 1 434 43 00. Open daily 09:00-18:00, Fri-Sat 09:00-22:00.

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Where to Eat HIŠA POD GRADOM Located at the foot of the castle in the heart of Ljubljana you couldn’t wish for a more authentic dining experience than at Hiša pod Gradom. This wonderful restaurant has been welcoming guests for many years and serving some of the finest traditional Slovenian dishes including Carniolan sausage and štruklji, to name just a few. Their menu also offers numerous other meat, fish and poultry dishes. You’ll find ample seating inside the charming old building, or if you’re lucky there’ll be a table free on the outside terrace where you can sit back and enjoy your meal whilst absorbing the ambience of the city around you.QE‑5/6, Streliška 10, tel. +386 (0) 31 484 369, www. hisapodgradom.si. Open 08:00-23:00. A­B­J­i KUHINJA KRUŠIČ Aside from the Euro, nothing has stirred up more disagreement amongst Europeans in recent years than horse meat - Slovenia being one of the countries where people largely have no problem with horses finding their way onto kitchen tables. Like-minded visitors in Ljubljana will thus surely want to add the family-run Krušič to their itinerary. Operating a butchery for over a century, it’s one of the country’s top suppliers of horse meat, which also dominates the menu in various different forms at the restaurant on the same premises.

Various appetisers, stews, cured meats and of course steaks from horse are on offer here, all of which can be enjoyed in the charming little dining room or taken away.QL‑3, Bezenškova 11, tel. +386 (0)1 544 61 41, www.mesarstvokrusic.si. Open 10:00-17:00; Fri 10:00-14:00; closed Sat, Sun. Also open by prior arrangement. S­L LANDERIK This exquisite new concept restaurant along Stari Trg in the heart of the old town puts a contemporary spin on Slovene fine dining, with virtually all ingredients sourced locally from the country’s best producers. This means you won’t even find Coca Cola on the menu, but if that’s not a deal breaker, you will be rewarded with some real treats for both the taste buds as well as the eyes. No effort was spared taking care of the smallest details, from the interior design and décor to the hand-carved napkin rings and art piece dessert plates. And its all brought together by an experienced, professional staff, who’ve perfected their trades whilst working at some of Ljubljana’s best restaurants. A definite winner and a must-visit for those who appreciate the finer things in life.QStari Trg 11, tel. +386 51 660 401. Open 08:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-24:00.

ASIAN BELI LABOD This super Chinese restaurant is owned and run by the same family that brought Master Noodle’s Bar to the city. When you have more time to relax then take a table and try their wider menu of traditional Chinese cuisine. They offer a large selection of meat, seafood, chicken and duck dishes, including the ever popular crispy duck. Vegetarians are also well catered for with many tofu, soy and vegetable recipes that re26 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Where to Eat

ally pack a punch with flavour. Complement your meal with Chinese or local beers, wines and juices. The large choice of dishes might make it difficult to decide what to eat but that just means you’ll have to return again and again. Would that be so bad? We think not.QD‑4, Kolodvorska street 20, tel. +386 8 205 37 63, www.belilabod.com/. Open 10:0022:00; Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; closed Sun. DOBRO JUTRO VIETNAM NEW Those of us old enough to remember the 1980s movie starring Robin Williams will know where this restaurant gets its name. Such an iconic movie deserves to be celebrated with a selection of delicious, authentic Vietnamese food, and Dobro Jutro Vietnam gets this spot on. Dishes are beautifully presented in all their colourful splendour and are as pleasing to the eye as they are to the tastebuds. Maribor locals and visitors have been enjoying the menu for some time now in the first restaurant and now Ljubljana folk get to enjoy it too.

QNebotičnikov Prehod, tel. +386 51 320 479, www.facebook.com/dobrojutrovnlju. Open 10:00-21:00; closed Sun. TLOFT This modern, trendy eatery brings the best bits of Asian cuisine to Ljubljana, with an always interesting fusion menu combining interpretations of flavourful Japanese ramen, spicy Thai red curry, tender Korean bulgogi and lots more. The selection of sushi and original starters such as pulled pork buns and gyoza are great for ordering a few of and sharing with friends, while the range of teas is one of the best in town, and Tloft is the place to enjoy an authentic Chinese tea ceremony or bubble tea. The affable owner Lin, who also runs one of the oldest traditional Chinese restaurants in Ljubljana (Kitajski Zmaj) is often on hand to chat with guests and answer questions. Check their Facebook page for weekly specials and other offers.

QC‑4, Gosposvetska 4, tel. +386 (0)31 41 28 03, www. tloft.si/. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; closed Sun. A­P­U­B­S­J­6­W­K

it opened its doors in the centre of Ljubljana some two decades ago, in the years since it hasn’t missed a beat, still serving some of the very best Mediterranean-inspired cuisine in the city. For us the true standouts on the menu are the fantastic seafood specialities (both starters and main courses), but you also can’t go wrong with the steaks, grilled to order on an open-fire. When in doubt, you can rely on the friendly and professional staff for recommendations, as well as guidance with the equally superb wine list. A must for lovers of extravagant dining!QC‑5, Čopova 5a (Knafljev Prehod), tel. +386 (0)1 425 88 22/+386 (0)4 25 41 68, www.gostilnaas.si. Open 12:00-23:00. A­P­ G­U­B­J­W­K

FINE DINING GOSTILNA AS One of Slovenia’s first truly world class restaurants when www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

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Where to Eat RESTAURANT & BAR ATELJE Decked out in browns of brick and wood, Atelje is a bar and restaurant with a classy, understated feel, as you’d expect from it being part of the Grand Hotel Union. A short and often changing menu re-imagines classic dishes, all masterfully prepared and beautifully presented, and on our visit we were lucky enough to sample the pork ribs with kimchi and pears, followed by brown butter ice cream. Tasting menus are available for those wanting to explore further, and there are private dining rooms that can be booked for more privacy, while the bar is well-stocked and nicely lit, making Atelje ideal for date-nights or business. Guests also enjoy free parking in the hotel garage.QD‑5, Nazorjeva 2, tel. +386 (0)1 308 19 07, www.restavracija-atelje.si. Open 12:00-15:00, 18:00-22:00; Sat 18:00-22:00. A­P ­T ­U ­B ­J ­6­ W­K STRELEC RESTAURANT Perched high up in the archer’s tower, this award-winning restaurant at Ljubljana Castle overlooks the city from a grand position. A combination of the Roman Emona, Medieval and modern in terms of both cuisine and ambiance, the menu was created with the help of top ethnology professor Dr Janez Bogataj. Historically reminiscent dishes of slick gourmet modernity are crafted with ingredients from Ljubljana’s famed market by the star of the show: Igor Jagodic. Recognised as one of the top three chefs in Slovenia, he was previously at the renowned Vila Bled,

BUREK The ubiquitous Balkan snack, burek is a filo pastry treat with a range of savoury fillings that’s best enjoyed with the addition of lashings of plain yoghurt.

BUREK OLIMPIJA This tiny takeaway at Bavarski Dvor is a true Ljubljana institution, and has been serving up piping hot Serbian-style burek almost literally non-stop, around the clock since the 1970s - some five million pieces in total! It was the runaway winner of our inaugural Battle of the Burek competition way back in 2010, and consistently ranks as a local favourite year in and year out. No night out on the town is complete without a pre- or post-club stop here, so don’t be surprised to see a queue at four morning. And while they renovated not too long ago, the menu and prices have thankfully stayed the same. A must-try on any visit to Ljubljana!QD‑4, Slovenska 58, tel. +386 (0)31 38 66 87. Open 00:00-24:00. €. N­X­S­J

and now takes care of the sublime offerings at Strelec.

QD‑6, Grajska Planota 1, tel. +386 (0)31 687 648, www. kaval-group.si. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Sun. A­P­ B­L­J

One of a kind! 120 years of tradition 120 years or premium quality ...........................................................

Opening time- Every day 11:00-23:00 phone +386 (0)1 251 34 46 www.gostilna-cad.si

28 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Where to Eat

HOME DELIVERY TOP CHEF Not to be confused with the long-running American reality TV with the same name, Ljubljana’s Top Chef is one of the city’s premier delivery restaurants, with both quality and prices that handily beat most of the competition. The menu is focused primarily on wide variety of pizzas, salads and burgers, but we most often order one of the wraps, which come stuff with either succulent chicken roast beef or mozzarella sticks. And if you’ve got lots of mouths to feed, there’s even a 1kg bucket of fried chicken. Special offers are usually available on the website, such as combo meals or 20% off orders over €20.QCesta na Rožnik 18, tel. +386 (0)30 611 633, www.topchef.si. Open 11:00-22:00. A­V

INTERNATIONAL AS APERITIVO The more casual dining wing of the legendary Gostilna As next door, Aperitivo is one of the top choices for business lunches, light snacks and afterwork drinks in the city centre.

Inspired by the giant tree that still grows through the middle of it, the building was completely rebuilt in 2011, now consisting of a large airy space on the ground floor with a ‘floating’ terrace above, all of which is furnished with creations by some of the top names in design. For price-conscious diners there are gourmet daily set menus starting from only €8, while the excellent full à la carte menu focuses on Mediterranean cuisine and steaks.QC‑5, Čopova 5a, Knafljev Prehod, tel. +386 (0)1 425 41 68, www.gostilnaas.si. Open 09:00-01:00; Sat 09:00-02:00. A­B­E­J­W DEŽELA OKUSOV Sitting amongst the restaurants and bars along Eipprova in Trnovo, there is a lot to like about this gastropub. Dežela Okusov’s menu is stuffed full of Slovenian and international dishes, with their speciality being grilled and smoked meats, producing some meat-tastic flavours and food, including a 12-hour slow-cooked, pulled pork poutine.

Dežela Okusov’s meals, which are served on wooden platters, are great pub food, pairing perfectly with the good selection of Slovenian and imported beers on offer. The cosy interior and hearty food will warm customers up in www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

winter, whilst on a nice day the street terrace is the place to be. Unusual for Slovenia, Dežela Okusov also roasts its own coffee.QC‑7, Eipprova 11, tel. +386 (0)1 283 92 88, www.dezela-okusov.si. Open 12:00-01:00. P­G­X­ B­6­W­K HOSTEL CELICA BAR AND RESTAURANT If you’re not familiar with the history behind this building then it’s worth reading up about, better still, go and

BALKAN GOSTILNA ČAD When you ask locals to name their favourite Balkan restaurant in Ljubljana, Čad is one of the most frequently heard answers. Situated by Rožnik Hill around corner from Tivoli Park, it’s also the longest-running restaurant of its kind in town, and guests can dine in the shady garden surrounded by nature or in the rustic homey interior. Specialising in spit and grilled dishes, the beefsteaks, grilled peppers and ražnjići skewers all come highly recommended.QJ‑4, Cesta Na Rožnik 18, tel. +386 (0)1 251 34 46, www.gostilna-cad.si.

Open 11:00-23:00. (€5-15). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­ I­E­S­L­J­W TO JE TO BALKAN ŽAR With a head chef from Leskovac - Serbia’s Mecca of grilled meat - it should come as no surprise that the heaping plates of carnivorous delights are prepared to perfection, while perhaps most impressive are dishes such as muckalica and sarma, which are more commonly found in grandma’s kitchen rather than restaurant menus. Other items that set To Je To apart include the specialty house burek (baked by a Bosnian chef who is clearly a master of the art), some delectable cold starters that are surprisingly light and flavourful, and a selection of homemade rakija that passed our very thorough taste tests with flying colours. Živeli!QKersnikova 6, tel. +386 51 350 750, www. tojeto-zar.si/. Open 09:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 12:0022:00. A­P­G­X­B­I­S­R­W­K­Yi December 2019 - February 2020

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Where to Eat visit. The restaurant is open to everyone and well worth it.

Daily specials can be checked online for the week ahead.

Meat and vegetarian options are presented throughout a range of different cuisine styles and you’ll also find a great selection of regular dishes such as soups, salads, burgers, plus breakfast and lunch options. Whether you’re staying at Hostel Celica or somewhere else, it’s a cool place to kick start your day and set you up for a few hours of sightseeing or other activities. Good quality food, pocket-friendly prices and it’s one of the coolest places in town to hang out. What’s not to like?QMetelkova 8, tel. + 386 (0)1 230 97 00, www.hostelcelica.com.

LIVADA A popular spot with locals and particularly families for more than 50 years, the newly renovated Livada has a relaxed modern feel whilst the large terrace makes the most of the restaurants fantastic location on the banks of the Ljubljanica river south of the city centre. The menu is huge with everything from hearty Slovene dishes to pizzas and lots of other grilled options from their 100% charcoal Josper oven, and if you’re having trouble choosing then the daily lunch menus are always a good option. Plenty of parking is available, including for campers, and boat tours can also be arranged directly from the restaurant.QK-5, Hladnikova 15, tel. + 386 (0)1 320 45 76, www.gostilnalivada.si. Open 10:30-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:0018-00. A­K BU6­­W

EDITOR’S PICK

SHAMBALA Not only does Shambala’s kitchen turn out some of the best (and spiciest) Asian cuisine in Slovenia, but the tranquil, almost meditative, ambience of the place allows you to enjoy your meal in a state of perfect relaxation - with some of the best service in town thrown in as an added benefit. During the warmer months, diners can also take advantage of the pleasant little garden that is tucked away in one of the buildings inner courtyards.

Situated down a narrow alleyway off Breg, this hidden gem is definitely worth finding.QC‑6, Križevniška 12, /+386 (0)31 843 833, www.shambala.si. Open 12:0022:00; closed Sun. A­P­G­T­B­J­W­K 30 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

MALA TERASA Perched on the first floor of the City Centre complex above the newly renovated Slovenska Cesta, Mala Terasa, or ‘little terrace’ is worth a visit for its view of the city and the iconic Nebotičnik skyscraper, but not only that, you’ll also find great quick and healthy lunch options. This youthful bistro offers a well-rounded menu of rich soups, rice dishes, salads, desserts and special weekly selections. All dishes are reasonably priced and made with fresh, local ingredients.QC‑4, Ajdovščina 1, tel. +386 (0)31 303 777, www. malaterasa.com. Open 11:00-17:00; closed Sun, Sat. MAXIM In the heart of the city centre this modern, business-orientated restaurant provides a fine menu of dishes including duck breast with mashed potatoes, soups, seafood, and a galaxy of fabulous puddings. There’s a huge wine list too, and a nice terraced area complete with water features for quality outdoor summer dining. Popular with professional locals and foreigners alike.QC‑5, Trg Republike 1, tel. +386 (0)51 28 53 35, www.maxi.si. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Sat & Sun. AJGSLBKW6

ITALIAN PANINOTEKA RESTAURANT A long-time favourite of ours, Paninoteka is a lovely place with a great Old Town location on a medieval square next to the Cobblers’ Bridge offering wonderful views of the castle directly above the terrace. The menu includes both ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Where to Eat Slovene and Italian cuisine, including excellent homemade gnocchi and ravioli, as well as some truly succulent steaks and meal-sized fresh salads, all of which are complimented by award-winning local wine and beer from Slovenia, Belgium and England. They also do great, filling breakfasts, and of course you can also find what we think are the best sandwiches in town here.QD‑6, Jurčičev Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)40 349 329. Open 08:00-24:00. A­P­B­J­W­i RAW PASTA NEW Come on, don’t pick and poke it, let it cook! Why the impatience? I know you’re hungry! It isn’t good to rush things in life, take it easy! Well, at the new Raw Pasta Bar, rules are different. You take it out just before it’s ready. We’re describing the right way to make Pasta Fresca! To give the tooth something to feel, the old way of the al dente. Assembled to perfection by incredible, delish sauces, from the traditional baked Pasticciata Pie to the more bold and trendy Paccheri, the simple menu is an absolute delight, as is the tiramisu, which they brag about, and with good reason.QTrubarjeva 43, tel. +386 70 193 411, www.facebook.com/rawpastafrescabar. Open 10:30-18:30; closed Sat & Sun.­ REX BISTRO NEW This stylish little bistro sure does have a lot to offer. They just opened their doors this summer and are already a big hit with lunch diners and also for the evening crowd.

You’ll find homemade eco and organic pasta dishes on the menu, as well as some top class pizzas (delivery is also an option if you prefer to dine at home). Not only do they take great pride in the food they serve but music is also a high priority, so look out for live music events that will be happening soon. Their central location means they are perfectly placed for you to swing by any time of the day or evening.QCankarjeva 6, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)64 282 829, www.rex-bistro.si. Open 06:30-23:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 06:30-01:00; Sun 11:00-22:00.

MEDITERRANEAN ALTROKÈ This elegant restaurant and wine bar is a great place to enjoy a drink and gourmet nibbles while soaking up the atmosphere of Ljubljana’s Old Town - either outside on the narrow cobbled street or inside under the restored red brick ceilings and glowing Edison lights. The menu is focussed on traditional cuisine from the coastal region of Istria, with a diverse selection of hot and cold dishes that all pair well with the extensive wine list, the latter coming as no surprise since the place happens to be run by Matjaž Čok of the winemaking Čok family, who also supply the olive oil and brandies.

QD‑6, Stari Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)82 055 282, www.altroke. si. Open 12:00-23:00. A­P­U­B­J­6­W­K OŠTERIJA PR’ NONI Just outside the ring road in Vič, Ošterija Pr’ Noni is an elegant oasis set beside a stream offering one of Ljubljana’s most delightful dining experiences. Pr’ Noni’s popularity www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

WHAT’S COOKING AT LANDERIK? We recently dropped by the exquisite Landerik in Ljubljana’s old town to have a chat with their young head chef Izidor Kržišnik.

How long have you been a professional chef?

At the age of 16, I entered a professional kitchen for the first time, at a traditional Slovenian gostilna, and that’s where I got my first holiday job. Since then I have been working in the kitchen. I worked for six years under the mentorship of famed Chef Igor Jagodic at Ljubljana’s Strelec, and in the last year I was his sous chef.

Have you worked under any other chefs we might know?

Well, among other things, I also studied under the guidance of Chef Mauro Colagrec, who runs the best restaurant in the world today - Mirazur in the town of Menton on the French Riviera, which has three Michelin stars.

At the age of 27, I became the head chef of Landerik, and for the first time I had the opportunity to show my knowledge and culinary skills on my own.

What is your philosophy in the kitchen?

For me the key is respect for the raw ingredients, the process of how I treat the raw ingredients, how to use them to perfection or nothing, and also discard as little as possible.

How do you develop new dishes?

First I choose the food that will be the star of the plate.

In the process of making dishes, the key to me is not to discard anything, or at least as little as possible. I am inspired by the somewhat forgotten raw ingredients and dishes that I interpret and prepare with modern techniques.

Any favorite ingredients to work with?

Artichokes.

What makes dining at your restaurant a unique experience?

We use only the best ingredients, which come from the hands of Slovenian farmers. Because we appreciate their efforts, we, with our team of young and creative colleagues, really try to prepare plates expressing respect for nature and the ingredients we use.

Slovenian cuisine in five words?

Diversity, ecological farming, wild ingredients, foraging, wheat.​ What are the three Slovenian dishes that every visitor to Ljubljana should try?

Focusing on tradition, these are frog legs, leteči žganci [literally “flying spirts”, which are breaded chicken legs prepared in a local way] and tarragon pancakes.

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Where to Eat (pays to book ahead) also rests on its delicious Mediterranean cuisine featuring excellent seasonal ingredients, fresh local seafood and perfectly grilled meats as well as one of Ljubljana’s best wine lists. Despite its incredibly classy feel, the service is friendly and it’s refreshingly unpretentious, offering actually very good value menus - especially, the early light lunches (‘malica’ in Slovene), more substantial 3-5 course lunch menus and traditional weekend lunches.QI‑5, Cesta v Gorice 1, tel. +386 1 242 58 20, www.prnoni.si/. Open 10:30-22:00; Sun 12:00-17:00; Sat 12:00-22:00. A­P­B­I­L

PIZZA FOCULUS Magnificently decorated once you’re through the slightly out of place automatic doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and red, yellow and orange plates built into the roof of the large wood-fired pizza oven, the large and busy Foculus specialises in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians and eight with seafood. The salads are also particularly good, although be warned that the place can get rather hectic in the evenings, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait a few minutes for a table.QC‑6, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 92 95, www.foculus.si. Open 11:0024:00. (€5.70-8.40). A­P­G­T­U­B­S­J­6­W PARMA The oldest pizzeria in Ljubljana and still a quirky little favourite all these decades later, as well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here is done at the large bar from where the food is cooked and served. Find an empty stool, place your order and away you go. FYI, tradition dictates that you order a glass of blueberry juice to go along with your pie. Find it hidden away down the stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market.QC‑5, Trg Republike 2, tel. +386 (0)1 426 82 22. Open 10:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun. (€3.90-6.20). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­J­6­W POP’S PLACE PIZZA The same culinary dream team behind Ljubljana’s favourite gourmet burger and craft beer establishment has brought their know-how to the pizza trade, melding gourmet Neapolitan pizza with Brooklyn style in a gorgeous location at the corner of Breg and Novi Trg in the old town. What exactly is this Neapolitan pizza that’s all the rage these days?

Like most Italian cuisine, the secret lies in its simplicity and top quality ingredients. The dough is kneaded by hand and left to rise for up to 48 hours, is no more than 3mm thick and is only baked for 90 seconds, with the whole process being more akin to an art than science. The early results suggest that this experiment has been a culinary success.QBreg 2.

BURGERS MCDONALD’S Ljubljana’s contribution to arguably the most popular fast food chain in the world offers a reliable and strangely sooth32 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Where to Eat ing menu for when you want a taste of home, wherever that may be. With plenty of locations around the city, all offering free WiFi, friendly service and smiles for the whole family, keep an eye out for their local specials and don’t forget that the ketchup has to be ordered as an extra and the code to open the toilet door’s printed on your receipt.QC‑5, Čopova 14, tel. +386 (0)1 251 12 60, www.mcdonalds.si. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 08:00-24:00. P­G­X­T­B­S­J­W POP’S PLACE Located in the heart of the city centre, Pop’s Place is Ljubljana’s only self-described ‘burger bar’, and even in the heat of the ongoing burger mania it manages to stand out from the competition, with its 100% Slovene beef aged inhouse and accompanied on the bun by the highest quality ingredients in some truly unique combinations. The menu also features fish and chips, onion rings and Kansas City style barbecued ribs, while Taco Thursday gives even those who are burger-weary an excuse to drop by and enjoy the lively atmosphere with a craft beer or premium cocktail.QD‑5, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 3, tel. +386 (0)59 042 856. Open 12:00-24:00.

THE ONE AND ONLY big mac

Restaurants in Ljubljana: Čopova ulica 14 Celovška cesta 170 Šmartinska cesta 154 Šmartinska cesta 152 Premrlova ulica 12 Trg OF 6

QUICK EATS ABI FALAFEL Located just around the corner from Ljubljana’s famed Dragon Bridge, Abi Falafel was Slovenia’s first Middle Eastern snack bar and is still the best place in town to savour a delectable falafel sandwich. With other meatless dishes including hummus and several salads, it’s a popular and logical stop for vegetarians, and the menu also includes other Arabic treats, such as shish kebab sandwiches, fatayer (mini pies with various fillings), kibbeh (deep-fried, breaded, minced-meat balls) and more.

Just make sure to save room for dessert, as there are always a selection of mouthwatering Arabic sweets and cardamom tea to finish off your meal. Now also open for breakfast, so you can start your day the Middle Eastern way! QE‑5, Trubarjeva 40, tel. +386 (0)41 64 01 66, www.falafel.si. Open 09:00-24:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:0001:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. A­P ­G ­U ­B ­S ­V ­J ­6­ W­K­i

www.mcdonalds.si

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Where to Eat

BIFE The humble salad is anything but that when it’s prepared by the folks at Bife. These delicious, colourful creations are produced using only the freshest of seasonal ingredients and result in dishes that are works of art and almost too good to eat. Good food not only deserves to look great but also be presented in eco-friendly packaging. Bife is conveniently located in the city centre and you can place orders online too. Choose from a wide range of fillers such as rice, quinoa and beans, top with your favourite greens and veggies, add a sprinkling of tasty extras and a dressing of your choice and voila, you’ve just created your own masterpiece.QC‑6, Rimska cesta 2, tel. +386 41 787 200, www.bife.si. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. KLOBASARNA It’s not often you find a restaurant where the menu consists largely of one item, but when the famed Kranjska Klobasa is the dish in question then that’s really all you need. Taking its name from the historic Duchy of Carniola (or Kranjska in Slovene), which nowadays corresponds to modern Slovenia’s Gorenjska region, this hearty sausage was at the centre of so-called ‘klobasa wars’ between Slovenia and Austria (and later Croatia) over the rights to the EU-protected name. History and politics aside, this trendy takeaway opposite the Cathedral is the best place to taste what all the ado is about. They also serve the traditional Slovene dishes jota and ričet, hearty stews that go great with the famed sausage.QD‑5, Ciril-Metodov 15, tel. +386 (0)51 605 017, www.klobasarna.si. Open 10:0023:00; Sun 10:00-15:00. A­B­S­J­K NAMASTE INDIAN EXPRESS As the name suggests, Namaste Indian Express is the stripped down offspring of its parent restaurant, Namaste, which was the very first to bring cuisine from the subcontinent to Slovenia all the way back in 2003. Located just around the corner from the famed Dragon Bridge, the Express branch offers a wide variety of inexpensive wraps and other filled-bread options, such as romali roti, dosai, uttapam, tawa paratha and samosa, all of which are tasty and many of which are also vegetarian-friendly.

Other dishes include the always popular chicken tikka 34 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

tandoori and daal tarka, while there are some delectable Indian desserts, as well as sweet, salty and mango lassis.

QD‑5, Trubarjeva 31, tel. + 386 (0)1 434 35 30, www. restavracija-namaste.si/express/. Open 10:30-22:00; Sat 10:30-22:00; closed Sun. A­P ­B ­S ­J ­6­ W­K

SOCIALLY CONSCIOUS SKUHNA A truly unique culinary and social venture, Skuhna was established by a Slovene non-profit to help better integrate the country’s vibrant migrant community, while at the same time offering locals the opportunity to experience diverse foods and cultures from around the world. The restaurant is the only place in town to try authentic cuisine from places such Algeria, Zimbabwe and Iran. The project initially provided training for several full-time chefs, who now organise an ongoing programme of lunches, dinners, workshops and catering services from their full-time restaurant on Trubarjeva ulica. A full calendar of upcoming events, daily menus and lots of other info can be found on the official website and Facebook page.QE‑5, Trubarjeva 56, tel. +386 (0)41 339 978, www.skuhna.si. Open 11:30-17:00; Fri, Sat 11:30-22:00; closed Sun. A­P­T­ E­J­K

i n d i a n e x p r e s s

Trubarjeva 31, 1000 Ljubljana Open: i n d i Mon.-Fri.: a n e x p7.30 r e- 21.00 s s • Sat.: 8.00 - 20.00 Sunday & holidays closed ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Where to Eat SEAFOOD VINO & RIBE The name really says it all here: wine and fish! Best described as a gourmet takeaway seafood joint, the menu consists of sardines, picarels, calamari and various types of fish, which are either fried or grilled (in a Green Egg) and served up piping hot. There are excellent side dishes as well, including some of the best fries in town, namely, wedge-style potatoes with the skins left on. Wine comes in two typical Istrian varieties, Malvazija and Refošk, and flows quite liberally by the litre or half-litre. Minimal, modern, inexpensive and delicious is definitely a winning combination in our book.QD‑6, Stari Trg 28, tel. +386 (0)8 205 52 83. Open 12:00-22:00. A­B­S­V­J

STEAKHOUSES ARGENTINO The journey out to BTC is well worth the effort, for Argentino really needs to be experienced to be believed. Huge and based on a classic Argentinean hacienda on two levels with further seating outside, the interior designer had a great time thinking this one up. Featuring vast paintings, enormous mirrors, video projectors, a fabulous bar and an even lovelier open kitchen, which turns out a dizzying array of mouthwatering Latin American dishes including some of the best steaks in Ljubljana. There’s also an excellent wine cellar with some 130 different Argentinean wines.QM‑3, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. +386 (0)1 523 36 30, www.argentino.si.

Open 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. (€5.2045). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­I­S­L­R­6­W

SWEETS & DESSERTS MAGIC PANCAKES NEW You can almost smell the aroma of coffee and delicious sweet pancakes on their beautifully quaint logo. You’ll find them in Tivoli Park where they are cooking up some tasty creations and revamping the humble pancake. If all the colourful and creative toppings appeal to your artistic streak, then why not pop along to one of their art workshops.

They are held every Thursday and attendees can enjoy a relaxed evening of painting and, of course, delicious pancakes and perhaps a glass of wine. Art workshops are also held for children (minus the wine), and make a great afternoon out or birthday celebration, where they can get paint on their aprons and chocolate around their mouths.

QCelovška Cesta 25, tel. +386 597 05374. Open 08:0022:00; Sat 09:00-22:00; Sun 14:00-22:00.

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN BARBARELLA ARKADE BISTRO After a night out in Ljubljana you may wonder how the locals keep so trim and shake off hangovers. Our own sewww.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

cret: healthy eating and smiles, both of which are in abundance at Barbarella Arkade Bistro. Located by the Central Market, this fine café has a full vegan menu with soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, biscuits and cakes. Truth be told, this is not only one of the few vegan cafés in town, it’s also one of the best cafés overall. Chef Barbarella also offers a light and vibrant breakfast menu to start the day off right, no matter how your evening ended.QD‑5, Adamič Lundrovo Nabrežje 3, tel. +386 (0)1 620 88 40, www. barbarella-arkade.si. Open 09:00-16:00; Fri 09:00-17:00; Sat 08:00-16:00; closed Sun. A­T­B­J­W­K BAZILIKA BISTRO A Mecca for lovers of fresh, healthy, organic foods, Bazilika is located in a beautiful high-ceilinged space in the city centre opposite the Presidential Palace and just around the corner from the Academy of Fine Arts. While countless proprietors claim to use only fresh locally-sourced ingredients, Bazilika actually posts photos of daily visits to local farmers, markets and gardens to their social media pages, assuring patrons that the various sandwiches, sweet and savoury pies, salads, soups, smoothies and other vegetarian and vegan-friendly treats that they turn out are as authentic as they are delectable. Daily 3-course lunch specials are written on the roll of brown recycled paper behind the counter.QB‑6, Prešernova 15, tel. +386 (0)1 244 62 75, www.bazilika. si. Open 07:00-23:00; closed Sun, Sat. A­B­S­J­W­i

AROUND LJUBLJANA EVERGREEN Located at the prestigious Diners Golf & Country Club in Smlednik just northwest of Ljubljana, Evergreen is the flagship restaurant of the Kaval Group, which operates over a dozen restaurants in and around the capital. Even for those not with no interest in golf, Evergreen’s idyllic setting makes an attractive destination for lunch or dinner, especially when the weather permits dining outside. The gourmet menu is a feast for the eyes (and wallet), while the daily lunch specials during the week are a great value starting at only €10.QSmlednik 200, Smlednik, tel. +386 (0)41 366 249, www.kaval-group. si. Open Mon-Wed 08:00-20:00; Thu-Sat 08:00-22:00; Sun 08:00-18:00. PA­­LBKWT

BRUNCH EK BISTRO Thanks to Ek Bistro, Ljubljana has a stylish brunch spot that would fit in New York, Sydney or on the pages of Vogue, serving up classics like eggs benedict (kudos for using free-range) on house-made English muffins and decadent french toast using their own brioche. There are also more lunchy options including tasty toasted sandwiches, and leave room for something sweet. Ek also serves Stow specialty coffee, whilst for a proper brunch, order a cocktail.

QE‑5, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 65, tel. +386 51 624 061.

Open 08:00-16:00. A­P­B­J­W­ December 2019 - February 2020

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Gourmet Slovenia Dine in any of the top restaurants and discover why Slovenia was the first country to be awarded the title of European Region of Gastronomy 2021. Internationally renowned chefs such as Ana Roš (Hiša Franko) and Luka Košir (Gostišče Grič) have helped raise the profile of Slovenian cuisine and the culinary scene in Ljubljana has never been better.

Frequent gastronomy events help to promote the use of locally produced ingredients with an emphasis on the traditional gastronomic characteristics of Slovenia.

SVETI FLORJAN

Pushing the limits of international gastronomic trends, Sveti Florijan’s eclectic menu consists primarily of smaller share plates, which change depending on the whims of the head chef or the owner - both of whom have spent years traipsing around the globe and have brought all kinds of imaginative flavours to the cobbled streets of Gornji Trg. The chef’s tasting menu with wine pairing is an epicurean experience that visiting foodies would be well-advised to partake of. The dizzying wine list is as diverse as the menu, with bottles from some of the most interesting and innovative winemakers of Slovenia, Italy, and France and further afield.

QGornji Trg 20, tel. +386 (0)31 657 605. www.sveti-florijan.com. Open 08:00-23:00; closed Mon.

EVERGREEN

Located at the prestigious Diners Golf & Country Club in Smlednik just northwest of Ljubljana, Evergreen is the flagship restaurant of the Kaval Group, which operates over a dozen restaurants in and around the capital. Even for those not with no interest in golf, Evergreen’s idyllic setting makes an attractive destination for lunch or dinner, especially when the weather permits dining outside. The gourmet menu is a feast for the eyes (and wallet), while the daily lunch specials during the week are a great value starting at only €10.QSmlednik 200, Smlednik, tel. +86 (0)41 366 249, www.kaval-group.si. Open Mon-Wed 08:0020:00; Thu-Sat 08:00-22:00; Sun 08:00-18:00.

RESTAURANT CUBO

Although Restavracija Cubo is found some 10 minutes from the city centre, this doesn’t stop foreigners and locals who appreciate good food and atmosphere from turning up there in droves. Taking the very best of the dining experience from décor to service to of course the food, they’ve come up with a truly inspiring place indeed. Opting for a minimalist approach with lots of dark woods and cool greys, the setting attracts everyone from business professionals to families who come to feast on a regularly changing menu of dishes including many inspired from Italy and the Mediterranean.QL-3, Šmartinska 55, tel. +386 1 521 15 15, www..cubo.si. Open 12:00 - 22:00; Sun closed.

36 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

HIŠA FRANKO

Roundly regarded by gourmands, amateur foodies, tourists and locals alike as one of the best restaurants in the country, and currently ranked as the 38th best in the world, it’s not uncommon for diners to make the trip to Slovenia just to eat here. Run by a husband and wife team, Ana Roš, one of the best female chefs in the world, is in charge of the kitchen, while Valter Kramar’s knowledge of Slovenian wines and cheeses is unrivalled. Set in a rustic villa outside the town of Kobarid, a meal here is in high demand, with reservations being mandatory (and the further in advance the better.QStaro Selo 1, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 389 41 20, www.hisafranko.com. Open 19:00-23:00, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00; Mon & Tue closed.

OŠTERIJA DEBELUH

One of the best restaurants in the region, if not the entire country, Ošterija Debeluh and acclaimed head chef Jure Tomič have built up a well-earned reputation for innovative, beautifully presented and most importantly delicious dishes. With their main focus always on simple, clean and seasonal flavours, the unassuming Debeluh is styled as a quaint French countryside restaurant, and the atmosphere is intimate and warm, with antique chandeliers, candles and framed paintings.

The decor reflects the dishes, both being a combination of tradition and modern elegance.QTrg Izgnancev 7, tel. +386 (0)7 496 10 70,.

Open 12:00-22:00; Sun closed.

GOSTILNA PRI LOJZETU

Set in a stunning Palladian palace that’s perched on a small hill in just outside of the town of Vipava, Gostilna Pri Lojzetu has its roots in a family business that opened at the end of the 19th century. The award-winning restaurant and fourth generation chef Tomaž Kavčič have been at their current location, Dvorec Zemono, for more than ten years. Kavčič is known across the region and beyond for his original take on Slow Food, with the menu featuring his innovative approaches to traditional local dishes - and his love for the Vipava Valley manifested on each and every plate.QZemono 7, Vipava, +386 5 368 70 07, www.zemono.si. Open Wed-Thu 17:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00. Closed Mon-Tues.

HIŠA DENK

Gregor Vračko’s Hiša Denk should be a permanent fixture on the gastronomic bucket list of any self-respecting foodie visiting Slovenia. The famed chef has a much deserved reputation for being quite an eccentric, and a culinary CV that few in the country can rival. He earned his proverbial stripes, working in prestigious kitchens across Europe, eventually ending up in California at Thomas Keller’s French Laundry. Upon returning to Slovenia, Gregor breathed new life into the traditional family gostilna in the village of Zgornja Kungota near Maribor, and the rest as they say is history.QZgornja Kungota 11a, Zgornja Kungota, +386 2 656 35 51, www.hisadenk.si. Open 11:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-20:00. Closed Wed. www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

December 2019 - February 2020

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Cafés

Located along the riverside promenade, Čokoladni Atelje Dobnik is the perfect spot to enjoy a warm, cosy beverage during the winter months

Ljubljana’s café culture has always been one of our favourite things about the city. When the weather’s nice the entire Old Town is abuzz with activity at the pavement cafés that line nearly every street. During the colder months things move indoors, but thanks to the national smoking ban you’re still apt to find a fair amount of patrons outside huddled under heat lamps and blankets. The most popular places can be found along the Ljubljanica River on Cankarjevo Nabrežje and along Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the opposite bank. Alternatively find a place by just wandering around until you find something you like the look of.

CLASSIC CAFÉS ARGENTINO CAFFE CLUB & LOUNGE BAR Argentino’s sprawling hacienda-style restaurant and shaded courtyard has long been a popular destination for those in search of a well-cooked steak or just looking for a quiet place to relax during a day of shopping in BTC City, so it comes as no surprise that the adjacent café and lounge bar also regularly attracts a crowd. During the daytime you can sample a coffee from the futuristic Rancilio Classe 11 Xcelsius espresso machine (which costs about the same as a new mid-range car) or enjoy a fresh seasonal dessert, while in the evenings there’s a fireplace to gather around with a glass of premium aged spirits and a fine cigar.QM‑3, Šmartinska 152, BTC City, tel. +386 (0)31 60 09 00, www. argentino.si. Open 08:00-23:00; Thu, Fri 08:00-24:00; Sat 09:00-23:00; closed Sun. A­X­B­I­L­W BAZILIKA SHOP & CAFÉ Right next to the court in one of the busiest areas of Ljubljana, this café is one of the closest things you’ll find to 38 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

an oasis in the city. As soon as you enter you’ll be soothed by the calming music and décor, making this a great place to come and quietly contemplate the world whilst enjoying some great coffee and sandwiches. Good service too.

QD‑4, Miklošičeva 22, tel. +386 (0)31 26 17 85, www. bazilika.si. Open 07:00-18:00; closed Sun, Sat. A­P­ B­S­J­W CAFFE BIENALE With its location in the beautiful setting of Ljubljana’s Tivoli Park, a coffee stop doesn’t get much better than this. From the large sunny terrace you can enjoy the water features and greenery below and also look further down to the Jakopič Promenade. Open from 9:00 every day and through to the early evening Caffe Bienale is popular with visitors throughout the year. A selection of sandwiches and light bites are available along with cakes, sweet pastries and ice creams. As part of the Kaval Group other events can be arranged, including romantic evenings for two and the venue also makes the perfect choice for a fairytale wedding.QPod Turnom 3, tel. 386 (0) 1 24 13 822, www.kaval-group.si. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00. ČOKL Coffee nerds this is the café for you in Ljubljana. Sandwiched amongst the cafes and bars on Krekov Trg (besides the funicular) Čokl has just a few tables on a pleasant terrace with even fewer tables inside though we’ve never had a problem getting a seat - the coffee nerd population of Ljubljana is smaller than Brooklyn’s we assume. The folks at Čokl take their coffee seriously - order an espresso and it often comes with a lecture on the bean’s origins - and ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Cafés given the chance the friendly proprietor of Čokl will have you sampling pour-overs, syphons and cold-brews. They also have cold drinks, teas and beer.QD-5, Krekov trg 8, tel. 386 (0)41 83 75 56, www.cafecokl.si. Open 07:0022:00; Sun 09:00-20:00. ČOKOLADNI ATELJE DOBNIK A great place serving high quality artisan chocolates, desserts, natural ice cream along with excellent coffee (Illy espressos and Iconic Specialty Coffee) and a tasty fusion of modern French and traditional Slovene, also find light lunches and snacks and their trademark great hospitality. Čokoladni Atelje Dobnik is a fine place to spend any time of the day, complete with a spacious interior with a fireplace when it’s cold outside and a terrace by the river when it’s not. They also serve selected alcoholic drinks, including cocktails and craft beers.QD‑6, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 19, tel. +386 (0)5 91 16 433, www.cokoladniatelje.si. Open 10:00-22:00; closed Mon. PJIABW ČRNO ZRNO This fantastic niche espresso bar is niche in more ways than one. For a start it’s literally a hole-in-the-wall café with a bit of street space, and the barista is also an architect so naturally what space there is is somewhat beautiful. It also exclusively serves specialty Colombian coffees, roasted for them locally and brewed to perfection, plus milky coffees, specialty brews and takeaways are also available. With an atmosphere more like a shrine that a café, coffee nerds should head here to talk beans as long as they like and possibly grab a good shot.QD‑6, Gornji trg 17, tel. +386 (0)31 446 398, www.crnozrno.com/. Open 11:00-17:30; Sat 10:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-14:00. A­W

that really makes it worth the trip.QN‑4, Rusjanov Trg 7, tel. +386 (0)1 29 26 400, www.mao.si. Open 09:00-18:00.

LOLITA With absurdly high ceilings, exposed brick walls, great views through huge plate glass windows and super comfortable seating, this riverside café leaves little to be desired - the place even smells great thanks to bouquets of fresh cut flowers at the entrance. Delectable-looking cakes are displayed in specially-built cases, and gourmet chocolates and teas are also on sale, as well as awardwinning cocktails. We didn’t think Ljubljana had room for any more cafés, but Lolita proved us wrong.QD‑5, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 1, tel. +386 (0)5 901 62 99/+386 (0)41 344 189, www.kaval-group.si. Open 08:30-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:30-24:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. A­P ­G ­X­B­ J­6 ­W MÉNAGERIE Windy cobbled streets meandering uphill, cute shop fronts everywhere you look, a photogenic old church, tourists taking selfies, the faint sound of a street musician, the smell of fresh baked sourdough wafting out of an adorable boulangerie. Despite being relatively certain that you’re in Ljubljana, you could be forgiven for momentarily wondering if there’s been a glitch in the matrix and the scene before you is in fact taking place in Montmartre. But rest assured you are indeed in the Slovene capital, standing in front of

GRAJSKA KAVARNA Swanky, cool and chic in equal measures. The café brings together the perfect blend of old meets new throughout its interior. As part of the Kaval Group one would expect nothing less, and its recent upgrade has certainly brought it up to scratch. The modern, stylish furniture and accessories complement the bare stone walls which serve as a reminder that you are still within the magnificent Ljubljana castle itself. Take a seat and indulge yourself with a selection of homemade cakes, biscuits and desserts to accompany your chosen beverage. QD‑6, Ljubljana Castle, tel. +386 31 353 982, www.kaval-group.si. Open 10:0022:00. A­G­T­U­B­S­J­W KAVARNA MAO If you plan on visiting Fužine Castle or the Museum of Architecture & Design then we recommend getting a drink or a snack in Kavarna Mao. Set within the castle itself, the café is a living exhibit, designed by leading local architects, furnished with the kind of chairs and tables that distinguished Slovenian interiors in the 20th century and often playing host to a diversity of museum events. Operated by the Kaval Group, the team behind some of the best venues in town, the menu has all the usual café favourites, including coffees, teas, alcoholic drinks and cakes, but it’s the setting www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

December 2019 - February 2020

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Cafés

Moments THAT MAKE YOUR DAY

McCafe in Ljubljana: Čopova ulica 14 Šmartinska 152 Premrlova ulica 12

www.mcdonalds.si

Ménagerie, an exceptional café and French-style bakery on Gornji Trg, which is quite possibly the most charming street in an old town full of charming streets.QD‑6, Gornji Trg 25, tel. +386 31 336 087. Open 08:00-22:00.

SEM KAVARNA A trendy, industrial-look café attached to the Ethnographic Museum featuring a glass floor, lots of wacky art, coffee, cakes and booze. Too pretentious for some perhaps, but a charming place all the same and certainly a place to meet some of the city’s more interesting characters.QE‑4, Metelkova 2 (Ethnographic Museum), tel. +386 (0)41 72 96 19, www.etno-muzej.si/sl/lokacije/kavarna-sem. Open 07:00-01:00. A­G­X­T­U­B­S­J­6­W­i ŠPICA The latest effort from the fabled Kaval Group, Špica is guaranteed to become a true summer favourite in Ljubljana.

Situated at the Špica itself, where the Ljubljanica divides before entering the city, it is tailor made for lounging on the riverside with a cold drink watching the days go by.

The modern bar does a great line in refreshing cocktails, which go together almost too well with the scenery. Don’t be surprised to see spontaneous dancing on the terraces as well.QE‑8, Gruberjevo nabrežje, tel. +386 (0)51 60 03 19, www.kaval-group.si. Open 08:00-21:00; Fri 08:0022:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-22:00. T­B­6­W 40 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

STOW SPECIALTY COFFEE SHOP Genuinely revolutionising the Slovenian coffee scene and way more than just a café, Stow are specialty coffee roasters that source coffees directly from farmers around the world, have coffee academies where experts share the secrets to specialty coffee and, yes, Stow also have a café serving their own specialty coffees. At Stow we usually opt for a perfect espresso poured from the La Morzocco, the F1 of coffee machines, although coffee nerds will more like be impressed with the brew bar. And if Chemex or even coffee itself isn’t your thing, Stow also offer quality teas, tasty snacks and sweets, craft beers and boutique wines, whilst the café’s designer, showroom-like interior and the museum courtyard are one of the best hidden retreats in the city.QC‑6, Gosposka 15, tel. +386 (0)70 700 040, www.stow.si/. Open 10:00-18:00; Thu 10:00-21:00; closed Mon. P­B­S­J­W

COFFEE & CAKES BAZILIKA KRIŽANKE The Bazilika family has expanded once more, and now has a third home on the lovely French Revolution Square, just opposite the Križanke Summer Theatre, known for being home to the Ljubljana Festival and host to some of Ljubljana’s most memorable concerts. As with their other branches on Prešernova and Miklošičeva Cesta, the new location is a gourmand’s paradise, with a menu of freshly prepared soups, salads, sandwiches, sweet and savoury pies, smoothies and other delightful offerings, virtually all of which are vegetarian and most of which are also vegan.

Of course you can also just drop by to enjoy a drink on the lively terrace.QC‑6, Trg Francoske Revolucije 5, tel. +386 (0)51 666 065, www.bazilika.si. Open 07:30-23:00; Sun 07:30-17:00. A­P­B­S­J­6­W­i MCCAFÉ All McDonald’s restaurants in Ljubljana have some form of McCafé, but perhaps the most popular and best is this one. While it may seem an odd place to recommend in a city overflowing with more traditional cafés, in truth there’s something comforting about the Golden Arches

Gosposka 15 (in City Museum of Ljubljana) Best specialty coffee which is roasted in own roastery STOW Open 10:00 - 18:00 Thur 10:00 - 21:00, closed Mon.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Cafés that keeps us coming back. With quick, reliable service, reasonable prices and a range of quality cakes, pastries and drinks, you’ll find locals and visitors alike popping in to take away a cup or have or more leisurely break. Free Wi-Fi is available, and do keep your receipt, it’s got the code for the toilets printed on it.QC‑5, Čopova 14, tel. +386 (0)1 251 12 60, www.mcdonalds.si. Open 07:00-01:00; Sun 08:00-01:00. A­P­G­X­B­S­J­W­K­i

ICE CREAM With our apologies to the French and their national obsession with the “coagulation of the milk protein casein”, there’s objectively no better use for milk than the production of glorious, creamy ice cream! And in our humble opinion, you can’t find a better selection of world-class ice cream east of the Soča Front than in Ljubljana. Many of the local purveyors serve up Italian-style gelato, while in recent years the variety has grown to include various organic offerings and even Thai-style ice cream rolls.

CACAO Boasting an unbeatable location just steps from Ljubljana’s famed Prešernov Trg, Cacao is the city’s top destination for ice cream lovers - overwhelmingly voted as having the best ice cream in town in each and every In Your Pocket Best of Summertime competition to date. It’s large tree-shaded terrace along the banks of the Ljubljanica also gets top marks for atmosphere, while the laid-back chocolate brown interior is a great place to chill out with a mouthwatering slice of gourmet cake or freshly prepared fruit smoothie. One of our, and seemingly everyone else’s, favourites.QD‑5, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 3, tel. +386 (0)1 430 17 71, www.cacao.si. Open 08:00-24:00. A­P­G­ T­U­B­S­J­6­W­i GELATERIA ROMANTIKA Once again voted the best gelato in town by locals and, according to Lonely Planet, the best ice cream in the world.

Gelateria Romantika is an example of a genuine boutique gelato parlour featuring not only classic Italian but also unique Slovenian gelato flavours. Discover pistachio di Bronte, the flavour that won the hearts of the locals, or indulge yourself in their famous, multi-times awarded roasted pumpkin seed oil gelato. All flavours are additivefree and made by hand right in front of you, using only unprocessed ingredients, non-homogenized fresh Slovenian milk and real fruits. Not sure you fancy gelato before summer? Top it up with their crispy hot Belgian waffles or homemade hot chocolate, or simply order an authentic Neapolitan espresso for which Gelateria Romantika is also famous for. QC‑6, Dvorni Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)31 63 10 01, www.gelateria-romantika.si. Open 07:15-22:00; Fri 07:15-23:00; Sat 09:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-22:00. P­T­ U­B­S­J­6­W­i ICE WAVE If you don’t fancy ice-cream now the weather is getting colder then why not try a crepe instead? Enjoy the magic www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

show when you order a ‘Volcano’. This delicious and beautifully crafted crepe is a thing of wonder, the hot/cold combo of flavours is a favourite with customers. Located just 100m along Trubarjeva from Prešeren Square, this fun ice creamery is not a traditional cone and scoop place with Ice Wave (a Spanish franchise) offering something completely different - you get to choose your own flavour combos and toppings then watch as the ice cream is mixed, frozen and shaped into cute rolls before your eyes. Delicious, whatever the weather!QD‑5, Trubarjeva 7, www.icewaveshow. com/en. Open 09:00-22:00. PJSA­­­­W­

JUICE BARS BARBARELLA JUICE BAR Barbarella’s is a trendy vegan and vegetarian Juice bar located in the city-centre. A fresh selection of goodies are prepared daily including, cold-pressed juices, smoothies, smoothie bowls, porridge, avocado toast and organic bread sandwiches all of which will give you the perfect morning boost. Come lunch time you’ll find a great selection of soups, salads and rice bowls. Alternatively, stop by at any hour throughout the day for a hit of coffee where you can also sample some of their amazing freshly made desserts. And if you’re short on time, everything can be prepared to take away.QC‑5, Slovenska cesta 38, tel. +386 (0)1 320 07 05, www.barbarella-juicebar.si. Open 07:00-20:00; closed Sat, Sun. December 2019 - February 2020

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Nightlife

Full of charm and a favourite amongst locals, including ourselves, Daktari is cool, unassuming and filled with surprises.

In addition to being the political, economic and cultural capital of the country, Ljubljana is also a student town, with the University of Ljubljana alone having some 40,000 enrolled students, meaning that the party scene is a notch or two more lively than might be expected, and the vast majority of bars and clubs are conveniently located in the city centre. A good place to start exploring Ljubljana’s nightlife is our annual Best Nightlife in Ljubljana competition, in which locals have voted for their favourite bars, pubs, clubs, lounges, wine bars and more since 2010, while the former army barracks now known as Metelkova City is one of the most famous alternative nightlife destinations in Europe (think Copenhagen’s Christiania in miniature), and definitely worth checking out at least once. One peculiarity is that many students leave for the weekend, so younger revellers will want to head out on Wednesday or Thursday night if they want to meet locals.

BARS AS APERITIVO Now housed in slick ultra-modern premises that have been the recipient of numerous design awards, this longrunning lounge bar is almost as much of a Ljubljana institution as its namesake restaurant next door. A top destination for the business set, Aperitivo is definitely one of the city’s more glamorous settings in which to grab a drink, the whole place turning into a large open-air terrace during the warmer months. Live DJs keep the party going most nights, while the Italian head bartender prepares some masterful creations for thirsty patrons. Find it in a secluded courtyard just off of Prešernov Trg.QC‑5, Čopova 5a (Knafljev Prehod), tel. +386 (0)1 425 41 68, www. asaperitivo.com. Open 09:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 09:0002:00; Sun 09:00-00:00. P­X­U­B­J­6­W 42 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

DAKTARI Sharing its name with the Swahili word for doctor, this place always cures us of any bad mood we’re in. Located near the Puppet Theatre and the funicular railway to the Castle, Daktari is a labour of love that attracts an artistic crowd of all ages. The bar exudes an old-time ambience and charm that is a rarity these days: restored antique furniture, shelves full of books, a player piano in the corner and a stage that is occasionally used for live music sets, jam sessions, theatre, cabaret and an eclectic mix of other cultural events. Very cosy, very nice.QD‑5, Krekov Trg 7, tel. +386 (0)59 055 538, www.daktari.si. Open 07:30-01:00; Sun 09:00-24:00; Sat 08:00-01:00. A­P­X­B­E­J­6­W­i KOLIBRI COCKTAIL BAR Hidden away on one of Ljubljana’s signature narrow streets, this great place to drink and relax in features something of an exuberant interior including a piano, galleryworthy wallpaper, marble countertop and velvet seating.

ALTERNATIVE NIGHTLIFE METELKOVA CITY Ljubljana’s famous artists’ colony hosts a number of clubs, most of which play thrash style music to a dreadlocked black-clad audience of all ages. Unfortunately little of the website is in English so it would be a case of try it and see, but what we can say for sure is that it provides a refreshing and alternative alternative to the dance music found in most other clubs and attracts a crowd who probably care more that you’re ‘cool’ as in non-judgmental than ‘cool’ as in what you’re wearing and how you sip your drink. Well worth checking-out both for itself and for the philosophy behind the whole set-up.QF‑3, Masarykova 24, www.metelkovamesto.org. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife The most popular cocktails here are the Clever Club (tequila, egg white and raspberries) and the St. James Gate (dark rum and a reduction of Guinness), and the skilled staff who mix them can also craft personalised cocktails or generally experiment with the mixology. Featuring live music on Fridays and Saturdays, this exclusive and increasingly popular spot is well worth a visit.QC‑6, Židovska Steza 2, tel. +386 31 336 087, www.kolibri-bar.com. Open 19:001:00; Sat, Sun 19:00-1:00. B­E­J

EDITOR’S PICK

LEPA ŽOGA Ideally situated for basketball and hockey fans without tickets for the events in neighbouring Hala Tivoli, you can grab a drink at this sports bar and cheer on your team in action on three TVs and a big screen. With autographed T-shirts of local sports heroes, this is can be any fan’s local.

QB‑2, Celovška 43, tel. +386 (0)14 32 31 09. Open 07:0024:00; Sun, Sat 09:00-24:00. A­G­X­B­6­W PRITLIČJE It might be a café, a bar, a cultural centre, a comic book shop or a live music venue, but in truth Pritličje is all this and more and then some too. The events schedule is packed with cutting edge creativity, the drinks list goes above and beyond the standard fare and the coffee is good enough to make it one of our most frequented spots in town. Add a perfect location next to the town hall, a comic book store full of a dizzying array of titles (the only shop of its type in the city centre), cute window seating and social values befitting the age we live in and we’re slowly running out of superlatives for Pritličje.QD‑6, Mestni trg 2, tel. 0820 58742, www.pritlicje.si. Open 09:00-01:00; Sun 09:0001:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00. A­B­W PRULČEK Surrounded by apartment blocks in the residential neighbourhood of Prule a few minutes’ walk from the old town, this spunky outfit is one of the city’s foremost venues for live music, with its eclectic programme of jazz concerts, rock shows and jam sessions routinely packing the house and carrying on well past the time when responsible working people have gone to bed. To top things off, their beer selection is on par with any other bar in town.

Check the frequently updated Facebook page for more info about upcoming events.QD‑7, Prijateljeva 2, www. prulcek.si. Open 08:00-02:00; Sat 08:00-02:00; Sun 08:00-2:00.

CLUB KLUB K4 Twice voted the best club in Ljubljana by In Your Pocket readers, if you’re staying in a hotel in this part of town and your bed starts bouncing across the room in the middle of the night, the chances are the culprit can be found inside Klub K4. A very student-oriented club indeed, it’s hot and sweaty and the DJs play some of the weirdest, hardest stuff in the country. Brilliant stuff. Klub K4 also offers Roza (Pink) Party nights for the gay community. Check out www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

ŽMAUC Ask any tuned-in local to make a list of their favourite bars and they’re almost certain to put this place on the list. Covered in quality graffiti outside and always featuring a huddle of interesting-looking individuals smoking suspiciously large cigarettes by the entrance, the exterior is but a mild prelude to what’s inside. A smallish Lshaped bar is packed day and night with more strange characters amidst an interior design scheme straight from the pages of a Manga comic. Excellent for coffee or something a little stronger. Highly recommended.

QB‑6, Rimska 21, tel. +386 (0)1 251 03 24. Open Mon, Tue 08:-24:00; Wed, Thu, Fri 08:-01:00; Sat 10:0001:00; Sun 18:00-00:00. A­P­G­B­J­6­W their Facebook page or website for detailed programme info.QC‑4, Kersnikova 4, tel. +386 (0)31 424 111, www. klub-k4.si. Open Fri 23:00-06:00; Sat 23:00-05:00.

A­P ­G ­J

JAZZ JAZZ CLUB LJUBLJANA CASTLE One of the city’s coolest nightlife venues and performance spaces is once again open to the public. If you’ve never been to an event held in the subterranean hall beneath Ljubljana Castle, you’re in for a real treat – with craggy, natural rock formations protruding from the floor, high ceilings, lots of different levels and various nooks and crannies to explore. Concerts are held every Friday evening, and genres run the gambit from jazz and blues to rock, soul, funk and world music. Admission is €7 or €14, and on performance evenings the entrance pavilion stays open till 23:00 and the funicular runs until 01:00.

See the official Ljubljana Castle website or Facebook page for info on individual concerts.QD‑6, Grajska Planota 1, tel. +386 (0)1 306 42 93, www.ljubljanskigrad. si/. Open Fri 20:00-24:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sat, Sun. December 2019 - February 2020

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Nightlife ADULT ENTERTAINMENT

PUBS

Although Ljubljana is a relatively small city, it does make space for sexy and sinful late night entertainment for adults, gays, lesbians, transvestites and so on. There are several strip clubs in Ljubljana displaying a diversity of foreign girls for escorting, table-dancing, stripping or just to keep you company if you buy them an (expensive) drink, and we mean €100 for the cheapest bottle of champagne. Clubs usually provide a dance show, often being quite explicit.

PARLAMENT PUB Knowing neither whether it’s a café nor a bar, this peculiar oddity with its books on the shelves, shady characters and students is nonetheless a popular stop for the heavy drinking younger crowd. Known for cheap beer and cocktails and lively international parties almost every night, it’s a great place to start or end an evening out. The entrance and terrace are at the back side of the building on Plečnikov Trg.QC‑5, Šubičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 251 32 43.

Open 06:00-04:00; Sun 16:00-24:00. A­P­G­X­U­ B­E­J­6­W

ESCAPE On the lowest level of the ever popular Orto, this club’s surroundings are consistent with the rock club atmosphere that is housed above it. There is a small stage for striptease, but lapdances and personal attention are the real focus here with private dances available at your table or in one of the back rooms. QG-3, Grablovičeva 1, Admission €16.

PATRICK’S IRISH PUB Ljubljana’s quintessential Irish pub is popular with locals, expats and tourists alike, and over the years we’ve personally spent many a night entertaining visitors, watching sports on the big screen and generally drinking too much here. They’ve got a huge selection of beer, with some 90 varieties to choose from, and often host events such as live Irish music concerts, pub quizzes and beer tastings.

Find it down a small cobbled alleyway just off Trubarjeva Ulica.QD‑5, Prečna 6, tel. +386 (0)41 581 333/+386(0) 41 581 333, www.irishpub-ljubljana.si. Open 17:0001:00; Sun, Mon 17:00-24:00. A­P ­G­T­E ­S­J­ 6­W PIVNICA UNION It may have taken 150 years, but the wait was most certainly worth it. One of the ‘Big Two’ of Slovenian beer producers, Union’s pub is a welcome addition to the brewery complex. Located in the former workers canteen it retains this workingman’s feel, wrapped in a modern coating. All of Union’s beers are available on tap, including the unfiltered version and a newly conceived speciality beer conjured up by the brewing wizards.

Something must be eaten to soak up the beer of course, and beer-friendly food is available for the cause.QB‑3, Celovška 22, tel. +386 (0)1 361 91 10, www.pivnicaunion.si. Open 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-01:00; Sat 11:0024:00; closed Sun. A­B ­W

WINE BARS HARD CORE CLUB With a name like that you can’t help but smile and get in a taxi and head here. The concept is simple, namely outstanding erotic entertainment provided by professionals in a safe environment for groups of lads of all ages and backgrounds. Nobody pesters you to buy them extortionate drinks, there’s always something worth watching on stage and it’s free to get in. The drinks are reasonably priced, and the girls who perform here are on the whole of a far higher sex appeal category of then elsewhere. Resident DJ Blanche Summer keeps the tunes fresh, and the club also offers free taxi transfers and a welcome tequila shot. QI-5, Dolgi Most 4, Open 21:00-05:00; closed Sun. 44 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

STRELEC CASTLE WINE BAR AND SHOP Ljubljana Castle is the most visited place in the city and now there’s a new reason to head up the hill. The newly opened Strelec Wine Bar and Shop is a wine lover’s dream.

Located on the upper level this stylish venue stocks wines exclusively from the three Slovenian wine growing regions. Through a wine tasting event you can learn the distinguishing features between them and enjoy a glass or two from the large terrace overlooking the city. Below the bar is Strelec restaurant and a full dining experience is highly recommended where you can pair some of these superb wines with the culinary delights of chef Igor Jagodic.QD‑6, Grajska Planota 1, www.kaval-group.si.

Open 08:30-22:00. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

In a city full of projects created by famed Slovene architect Jože Plečnik, this sluice gate just east of the centre is one of the most interesting and often overlooked

Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for visitors to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to the city’s multitude of museums and galleries are more than worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary combination of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik to the historic atmosphere of the Old Town to the occasional blast-to-the-past burst of retro-Yugoslav urban planning all work together in harmony to create this small and perfectly formed city.

TOP ATTRACTIONS DRAGON BRIDGE (ZMAJSKI MOST) Spanning the Ljubljanica in the very heart of the city, the infamous Dragon Bridge is an Art Nouveau/Vienna Secession masterpiece dating from 1901. Named for four obvious reasons in the guise of mighty dragon statues at each corner, the structure is a superb example of an early reinforced concrete bridge and as such is exciting for both lovers of art and of architecture. The triple-hinged arch bridge, which measures just over 33m in length, was designed by the Italian engineer and architect Giorgio Zaninovich (Jurij Zaninović, 1876–1946), and features a further 16 smaller dragon statues which together help its reputation as one of the most photographed structures in Ljubljana. Not surprisingly, the Dragon Bridge is the recipient of many legends, the most charming of them all in our opinion being that when a virgin crosses, the dragons wag their tails.QE‑5, Resljeva Cesta.

FRANCE PREŠEREN MONUMENT (PREŠERNOV SPOMENIK) A likeness of Slovenia’s national poet France Prešeren (1800-1849) stands in the square named in his honour at www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

the foot of the Triple Bridge. As well as offering an interesting visual treat, the monument also serves as a focal point for people meeting in the city. Unveiled in 1905, the large monolith is the work of the architect Maks Fabiani and the sculptor Ivan Zajc and features the Muse of Poetry holding a small laurel of bay leaves over his head as well as extracts from his writing around the base.QD‑5, Prešernov trg.

PREŠEREN SQUARE (PREŠERNOV TRG) Formally the meeting place of several roads in front of one of the old gates to the city, and a public square since Ljubljana’s original defensive walls were torn down in the middle of the 19th century, this is one of the city’s most important landmarks. Named after Slovenia’s national poet France Prešeren (Ger. Franz Prescheren, 1800-1849), it’s both a popular meeting place (notably under the large statue of the man after whom the square is named) and a site for concerts and events during the summer. The charming little public space is ringed by a number of interesting sights including the magnificent Art Nouveau façade of the Urbanc House, an extraordinary piece of early 20th-century flamboyance.QD‑5.

ST NICHOLAS’ CATHEDRAL (STOLNICA SV. NIKOLAJA) With its classic twin towers and trademark single, weather-worn green dome, the city’s cathedral, more properly known as St Nicholas’ Church, encapsulates everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer details reveals its hidden charm and beauty. Built on the site of a much earlier church, the cathedral’s main structure and appearance dates from the first half of the 18th century.

Inside the Baroque masterpiece is a cavalcade of classic December 2019 - February 2020

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Sightseeing BRIDGES BUTCHER’S BRIDGE (MESARSKI MOST) Connecting the magnificent colonnaded Tržnica covered market with Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the opposite bank, the bridge had been part architect Jože Plečnik’s original plans in the 1930s, but was never built due to the outbreak of World War II. Finally opened in July 2010, the bridge remains somewhat controversial due to its modern style (Plečnik had envisioned something of similar appearence to the adjecent market), as well as the grotesque sculptures

by Slovene artist Jakov Brdar that were commissioned to decorate the structure. Soon after the bridge opened, it also became home to the endearing and decidely controversial tradition of couples locking ‘love padlocks’ along the length of its steel wires.QD‑3.

COBBLERS’ BRIDGE (ČEVLJARSKI MOST) Another Plečnik creation, this elegant 1930s bridge is named after the cobblers’ workshops that were located on its predecessor. Pillars of various sizes stand on the bridge, some supporting lamps, others simply holding stone balls in the air.QD‑6.

CHURCHES The eponymous dragons of Dragon Bridge are likely Ljubljana’s most photographed residents

creams and golds, littered with extraordinarily detailed frescoes and possessing that calming feeling that only a great church can bring.QD‑5, Dolničarjeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 234 26 90, www.stolnica.com. Attending mass is free. All other times adults €2, children free.

TIVOLI PARK Tivoli Park is where the people of Ljubljana who don’t leave the city spend the weekend. Laid out in 1813 as a place for the general health and recreation of the city’s population, at some five square kilometres Ljubljana’s gargantuan bucolic lung is packed with things to see and do. Set amidst rolling hills, Tivoli Park is a pleasant mixture of lawns (picnics encouraged: something of a shock in this part of the world), pastures, wooded areas and fun adventure playgrounds for the kids. As well as its reputation as the top nature spot in the area, Tivoli Park also houses a number of cultural sights including the International Centre of Graphic Arts in the glorious 17th century Tivoli Mansion, the Museum of Modern History and, in the park’s far southwestern reaches, the city’s award-winning zoo.QB‑4, Tivoli Park.

TRIPLE BRIDGE (TROMOSTOVJE) Perhaps Ljubljana’s most characteristic structure, the Triple Bridge is a curious combination of a 19th-century road bridge and two 1930s pedestrian bridges designed

by Plečnik, who took the opportunity to do up the whole ensemble with lamps and stone balustrades.QD‑5.

46 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Information about religious services in English is included in the reviews listed below wherever appropriate. For regular Anglican services in English, see www.anglican.si. Regular non-denominational Protestant Evangelical services held in English are organised by the International Church of Ljubljana. For more information, see their website at www. ljchurch.net.

GUIDED TOURS The Tourist Information Centre should be your first stop if you’re interested in any kind of city tour. They offer a variety of scheduled tours for individuals, and can arrange even more for groups with a bit of advanced notice. Prices and itineraries are also clearly listed on their site, so you’ll know exactly what you’re getting. Almost every hotel in the city offers guided tours of one sort or another as well. Some are good, others just a way of making money. You should be able to spot the scams without too much difficulty. Most tickets can be booked online or purchased at either TIC (Adamič Lundrovo Nabrežje 2) and STIC (Krekov Trg 10).

BEHIND BARS AT LJUBLJANA CASTLE These days everyone can enjoy the Ljubljana Castle though hundreds of years ago for some lucky folks it was a palace whereas for other particularly unlucky souls the Castle was a prison and living hell. For a truly unique look back at the history of the Castle including its darker moments book an immersive Behind Bars guided tour. As well as being shown around by knowledgeable guides the Behind Bars tour also features costumed characters recreating scenes from the Castle’s gruesome past though fair warning after see the Castle forever.QD‑6, Ljubljana Castle, tel. +386 ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing (0)1 300 42 93, www.ljubljanskigrad.si/. July-Sept 15:00, May-June 14:00, Jan-April & Oct-Dec Sat & Sun 14:00.

Behind Bars and Castle ticket Adults/Children/Family €12/8.40/30 (w/ funicular), €10/7/23 (w/o funicular).

LJUBLJANA FREE TOUR The cult of the free tour has well and truly taken over Europe, and Ljubljana is in on the game. There aren’t many better ways of getting a great introduction to the city from a diverse group of passionate and engaging guides. Meeting on Prešeren Square every day at 11:00 (and again at 15:00 between June and October), the tour covers everything from the city centre to the medieval Old Town to spooky hidden alleys and a whole lot more. It also has a number of paid tours available by prior booking, such as a Communist and a Medieval tour. For now, the free tour is one of the best in town.QD‑5, tel. +386 (0)40 55 58 43/+386 (0)40 60 44 76, www.ljubljanafreetour.com.

MAMUT SLOVENIJA Mamut Slovenija is specialised in outdoor adventures all around Slovenia. Whether you’re looking for guided tours, snowshoeing, horseback riding, winter paragliding or family fun they have something suitable for all travellers. With starting points from Bled or Ljubljana for full or half-day excursions the experienced guides will take you on your chosen trip or activity and share with you their wide knowledge of Slovenia. Tours available include Soča valley, Triglav National Park, Postojna, Lipica plus lots more of Slovenia’s top destinations. A great way to explore the country and enjoy outdoor beauty at your own pace!QTrg Osvobodilne fronte 13, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)40 433 331, www.slovenija.eu.com. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun.

CITY MUSEUM OF LJUBLJANA (MESTNI MUZEJ LJUBLJANA) The City Museum of Ljubljana is located in a true architectural monument. The permanent exhibition brings a chronological overview of the Ljubljana basin area and gives visitors the opportunity to learn about the town’s history.

It draws attention to the city’s important geostrategic position and to the extraordinary events in the history of the area. Two of the more notable pieces on show are a wooden wheel with a wooden axle and a wooden spear point, aged around 40,000 years old. The wheel was discovered in the Ljubljana Marshes in 2002. Radiocarbon dating shows it to be approximately 5,150 years old, making it the world’s oldest. The exhibition offers an overview of Ljubljana’s history in a creative and fun way with the use of interactive features, short films, guided tours and workshops. QC‑6, Gosposka 15, tel. +386 (0)1 241 25 00, www.mgml.si. Open 10:0018:00; Thu 10:00-21:00; closed Mon. Temporary exhibition: Admission fee: €6, reduced €4, families €12.

LJUBLJANA CITY GALLERY (MESTNA GALERIJA LJUBLJANA) Located on Mestni Trg and housed in a beautiful 16thcentury townhouse originally built by Count Lanthieri, the expansive premises have been a municipal art gallery since 1963. The gallery began forming its own diverse collection of primarily 20th-century Slovene art in the early 1990s, which now numbers some 200 works. The gallery’s annual exhibition programme usually includes two retrospectives of Slovenian artists as well as group and solo

TIME MACHINE AT LJUBLJANA CASTLE Whilst it may be an often-claimed slogan, the Time Machine guided tour at Ljubljana Castle truly is a tour like no other. Follow the history of one of the largest symbols of Ljubljana through six of its most important periods, from Roman Emona through to the 20th century. You’re guided along each step by a different costumed character from each time, creating a unique atmosphere that we can’t help but enjoy. Starting from the information point at the castle, the tour runs as it writes bellow. QD‑6, Grajska Planota 1, tel. +386 (0)1 232 99 94, www.ljubljanskigrad. si/. July-Sept 11:00,13:00 and 17:00, May-Jun 12:00, Jan-April & Oct-Dec Sat and Sun 12:00. Admission: €10 (€12 with funicular), students/children/seniors/groups €7 (€8.40 with funicular), families €23 (€30 with funicular).

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Whilst Ljubljana’s museums and galleries are likely not the top reason for most visitors coming to the city, the breadth and scope of what’s on offer is more than enough to keep you busy for days on end. www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

The poet France Prešeren and his muse enjoying a snowy winter day

December 2019 - February 2020

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Sightseeing #myljubljanatime

FIND YOUR FAVORITE TIME IN LJUBLJANA’S HISTORY!

5200 YEARS IN THE MAKING! The oldest wooden wheel in the world now on exhibition at the City Museum.

mgml.si exhibitions by artists from both home and abroad, whilst every three years there are thematic historical exhibitions that aim to present the development of a certain artistic element, style or theme. Also find a café and large reading area.QD‑5, Mestni Trg 5, tel. +386 (0) 1 2411770, www. mgml.si. Open 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-15:00; closed Mon. MUSEUM OF ARCHITECTURE & DESIGN (MUZEJ ZA ARHITEKTURO IN OBLIKOVANJE) Located in Fužine Castle in the far east of the city, the Museum of Architecture and Design is the main Slovene institution operating in the fields of architecture, urban planning, industrial and graphic design and photography. The musuem collects and archives work from these areas, which can then be used for both educational purposes and public exhibition, and also acts as a museum and architectural and design centre whose mission is to facilitate the exchange of ideas and knowledge and the establishment of urban, architectural and design dialogue. Originally founded in 1972 as a private institution, in 2010 it came under the management of the Government of the Republic of Slovenia. To reach Fužine Castle from the city centre, take bus Nº1, 20 or 25.QN‑4, Rusjanov Trg 7, tel. +386 (0)1 548 42 70, www.mao.si. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €3 for adults, €1.50 for students/children, €5 for families.

48 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

MUSEUM OF PUPPETRY (LUTKOVNI MUZEJ) Slovenia has a rich history of puppetry dating back to the 1920s and beyond when the grandfather of Slovene Puppetry Milan Klemenčič opened his Tiny String Puppet Theatre. Almost 100 years later the Ljubljana Puppet Theatre is still going strong and continues to stage internationally acclaimed puppet performances. Over the years literally thousands of puppets have graced the stage in a diverse range of productions for children and adults alike, many of which can be found inside this very kid-friendly museum.

QD‑6, Ljubljana Castle, Grajska Planota 1, tel. +386 1 306 42 58, www.ljubljanskigrad.si/. Jan, Feb, Mar & Nov 10:00-18:00; Apr, May & Oct 09:00-20:00; Jun, Jul, Aug & Sept 09:00-21:00; Dec 10:00-19:00.

NATIONAL GALLERY OF SLOVENIA (NARODNA GALERIJA SLOVENIJE) Housed in the fabulous late 19th-century neo-Renaissance palace, with extra space in a modern wing, this wonderful gallery features the very best in Slovenian art from the 13th century up to the first half of the 20th century, including paintings by such notable artists as Ivan Grohar), Richard Jakopič and Ivana Kobilca. The other permanent exhibition focuses on European painting, with some fine examples of the Renaissance-period Italian painting through to the more modernist work of the early 20th century. Visitors can stop for coffee and cake overlooking the fountain in the gallery’s pleasant cafe, while there is also a gift shop with a great selection of books and postcards. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing QC‑4, Prešernova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 241 54 18, www.ngslo.si. Open 10:00-18:00; Thu 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Adults €7, children €3 (free 1st Sun of month); Temporary exhibitions €5/3; Combined €10/5.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY HISTORY (MUZEJ NOVEJŠE ZGODOVINE SLOVENIJE) If you needed a reason to visit Tivoli Park, it’s here. This fascinating museum inside a wonderful 18th-century mansion presents the history of Slovenia from the period around the start of the First World War until the Slovenian Presidency of the EU in 2008. Using a combination of well presented exhibits including old photographs, clothing and household items the museum charts the often wobbly path of the nation through and between the two world wars and the difficult and truly fascinating post-war communist years. The building alone is worth seeing, being a marvellous combination of original Baroque and the interesting modernist work of the Slovenian architect Jurij Kobe who extension to the museum dates from 1991.

QB‑3, Celovška 23, tel. +386 (0)1 300 96 10, www. muzej-nz.si. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €3.50 for adults, €2.50 for children, €8 family.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF SLOVENIA (NARODNI MUZEJ SLOVENIJE) Found lurking inside another of the city’s fine, late 19thcentury neo-Renaissance buildings complete with gorgeous painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, founded way back in 1821 this is the oldest museum in country. Permanent archaeological displays proudly show off Slovenia’s unique past, including a 60,000-yearold Neanderthal flute, the world’s oldest musical instrument, and the famous Vače Situla. The museum’s collection now spreads to another location in Ljubljana’s museum quarter in Metelkova.QB‑5, Muzejska 1, tel. +386 (0)12 41 44 00, www.nms.si. Open 10:00-18:00; Thu 08:00-20:00. Admission €4-8.5.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF SLOVENIA (METELKOVA) (NARODNI MUZEJ SLOVENIJE METELKOVA) The newest wing of the National Museum of Slovenia can be found in Metelkova, the subversive beating heart of the city. Being Metelkova it was always going to have an artistic spin with what it offers, and we’re not disappointed. The Slovene Ethnographic Museum, Museum of Contemporary Art, Slovenian Cinemateque and the Institute for the Protection of Cultural Heritage are all here, as well as a permanent exhibition showcasing the heritage of the applied arts throughout the country.QF‑4, Maistrova 1, tel. +386 (0)1 230 70 30, www.nms.si. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. PLEČNIK HOUSE (PLEČNIKOVA HIŠA) Walking around Ljubljana you’re guaranteed to encounter the stunning architectural landmarks of Jože Plečnik and the best way to get know who the architect behind so much of this beautiful city was is to head to his former home in Trnovo. Preserved and transformed into a www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

museum, Plečnik’s home from the street looks like many of the other old houses in the area, although the master designer left his mark on this house too, expanding the original building with a cylindrical annex and winter garden as well as equipping the house and garden with inventive furnishings of his own design. Permanent exhibitions showcase Plečnik’s substantial architectural legacy in Vienna, Prague and of course Ljubljana, and also provive visitors a window into the world of the eccentric designer’s personal life and history. The museum can only be visited as part of a guided tour.QC‑7, Karunova 4, tel. +386 (0)1 24 12 506, www.mgml.si. Open 10:00-18:00; Thu 10:0021:00. Only guided tours, scheduled every hour, last one starts at 17:00. Adults €6, reduced €4, families €12.

Scheduled tours: up to four persons €30; over four €7/ person, €5 reduced.

SLOVENE ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ) The Slovene Ethnographic Museum (SEM), a museum ‘about people, for people’, prides itself as being the link between the past and the present, between our own and other cultures, between nature and civilisation. A central museum of ethnology, a museum of dialogue, open, active and hospitable with dedicated public services, the

TOURIST INFORMATION LJUBLJANA TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE A small but extremely well equipped resource with plenty of maps, lots of brochures in English, information about what’s on in the city and helpful advice on what to see and do in the region. They also organise tours, can help with accommodation, and should be one of your first ports of call when you arrive in the city. Their website is one of the best in Central Europe and is well worth further investigation. Friendly, informative staff too.QD‑5, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. +386 (0)13 06 12 15, fax +386 (0)13 06 12 04, www.visitljubljana.com. Open daily Oct - May 08:00 - 19:00, June - Sept 08:00 - 21:00.

SLOVENIAN TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE (STIC) Ljubljana’s central tourist office is a bit larger and usually less crowded than the main branch located a few hundred metres away opposite Prešeren Square, and they also helpfully stock heaps of maps, brochures and general information for the entire country. Tickets for most events in and around town can be purchased, and the staff will gladly give you a rundown of the various tours and excursions on offer. Bicycle rentals are also available for only €8 per day, and are a great way to see more of the city.QD‑5, Krekov Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 306 45 75, fax +386 (0)1 306 45 80, www. visitljubljana.com. Open Oct - May 08:00 - 19:00, Sat - Sun 09:00 - 17:00, Jun - Sept 08:00 - 21:00.

December 2019 - February 2020

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Sightseeing LJUBLJANA CASTLE

Perched on top of Castle Hill (Grajska planota) and dominating the city skyline to the south, Ljubljana’s magnificent castle stands on the site of several former defensive buildings in a hilly area of land stretching away to the south of the Old Town. The castle in its current form was built by Emperor Frederick III of the Habsburgs in the second half of the 15th century. The fortress was used to consolidate Frederik’s influence in the area and to defend against increasing incursions of the Ottoman Army.

Not unlike Kraków’s Wawel Castle in Poland, Ljubljana Castle has served as both a royal residence and a military barracks over the centuries.

The current main points of interest for the visitor are the Viewing Tower (Razgledni Stolp), built in the 19th century and raised a further 1.2m by the government in 1982. The tower’s Virtual Castle screens a 12-minute film translated into more than 10 languages showing an interesting and informative history of the castle.

On the same floor find a small door that takes you to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron steps, each individually decorated with an image of the tower and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to a small viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with wonderful views of the city.

Underneath the tower and located down a small flight of stairs tucked away through a doorway in the corner of the courtyard is the diminutive St. George’s Chapel (Kapela sv Jurija), one of the oldest parts of the castle. By the order of Cesar’s document from 1489 it was dedicated to St. George, the patron saint of Ljubljana and was renovated in the Baroque style and in 1747 decorated with the coats of arms of over 60 rulers, including Herman and Ulrich of Celje, Henrik of Gorizia County, and Krištof Rauber, a former bishop of Ljubljana.

The Castle also has a beautifully presented permanent Exhibition on Slovene History and visitors of all ages will enjoy a trip to the Museum of Puppetry housed above the Castle’s Estate Hall.

The castle also offer a range of tours such as guided viewings of the Castle and exhibitions by knowledgeable locals and the unique Time machine and Behind Bars immersive tours or else take in Ljubljana’s premier attraction at your own pace with commentary courtesy of an audio guide available in 14 languages. You can even save a dragon in a fun adventure game Escape Castle.

There are also small art galleries featuring temporary exhibitions as well as a café, restaurants and castle souvenir shop. It’s also a popular place for local weddings, and during the summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a popular outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths lead up from the Old Town, or take the funicular from next to the Puppet Theatre on Krekov trg.QD‐6, Grajska Planota 1, tel. +386 (0)1 306 42 93, www.ljubljanskigrad.si. Open Oct 09:00‐20:00, Nov 10:00‐18:00, Dec 10:00‐22:00. Public areas free to access. Castle ticket prices vary widely for exhibitions and other attractions. See website for more info.

museum is located in an urban cultural centre and former military barracks in the Metelkova area, which have undergone complete restoration, and in the future will form the centre of Ljubljana’s arts scene. Through two permanent exhibitions, diverse annual temporary exhibitions and other events, SEM presents and reports on the traditional culture of Slovenia and other cultures of the world in creative and imaginative ways. Find the entrance in the large square on the north side of the building.QF‑4, Metelkova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 300 87 00, www.etno-muzej.si. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €6.00/3.00 (adults/ students). Free admission the first Sunday of the month.

tres above sea level, it offers panoramic views of the entire city, stretching all the way from the rolling hills of Dolenjska to the south to the rocky peaks of the Julian Alps in the north. The tower’s history is almost as tumultuous as that of the castle itself, with the original structure, referred to as Piper’s Tower, dating back to the mid-16th century, while the current tower was completed in 1848, and extended to its present height (with the addition of 1.2 metres) in 1982.QGrajska Planota 1, Ljubljana Castle, tel. +386 (0)1 306 42 93, www.ljubljanskigrad.si. Jan, Feb, Mar, Nov 10:00 - 18:00, Apr, May, Oct 09:00 - 20:00, June - Sept 09:00 - 21:00, Dec 10:00 - 21:00.

PLACES OF INTEREST

COOPERATIVE COMMERCIAL BANK One of the most beautiful, but not extremely well-known buildings in Ljubljana is the almost surreally colourful Cooperative Commercial Bank. Designed in 1921 by the Slovenian architect Ivan Vurnik and completed the follow-

CASTLE VIEWING TOWER No visit to Ljubljana Castle is complete without a journey to the top of the viewing tower. Standing exactly 400 me50 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing

Tivoli Park is often referred to as Ljubljana ‘green lung’, but during snowy winter days it becomes the capital’s white wonderland, photo by Matej Kastelic / Shutterstock.com

ing year, the building’s unmistakable façade was actually painted by his wife Helena, herself a Vienna-born artist.

While the building is squarely rooted in the Secessionist movement, it also must be considered one of the finest examples of Slovene national style architecture as the façade and interior wall paintings present a stylised interpretation of traditional Slovene iconography.QD‑5, Miklošičeva 8.

NEBOTIČNIK (THE SKYSCRAPER) Believe it or not, at just 70m this lovely little skyscraper was the highest building in the Kingdom of Yugoslavia and the ninth tallest in Europe when it opened on February 21, 1933. Nowadays it’s a mixed-use building, with shops on the ground floor, offices and residential units in the middle and a restaurant, café and lounge bar occupying the top three floors, all of which offer excellent views of the city, Alps and Ljubljana Castle.QC‑5, Štefanova 1.

ROBBA FOUNTAIN Also known as The Fountain of Three Carniolan Rivers and one of the most famous landmarks in the city, this lovely 1751 fountain is named after its creator, the Italian Baroque sculptor Francesco Robba (1698-1757). The last of Robba’s Ljubljana creations, the eight years it took him to complete essentially bankrupted the man, and he finally left the city for Zagreb. Based loosely on the grand fountains of Rome, the artist’s masterpiece features three river gods, supposedly representing the Krka, Ljubljanica and Sava rivers.

Note the monument standing in Mestni Trg is a replica, the original having been moved inside the lobby of the National Gallery of Slovenia in order to protect it from the elements.QD‑5, Mestni Trg. www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

VIRTUAL CASTLE Located under Lookout Tower, the Virtual Castle is a 12-minute video presentation that takes visitors on an historical tour of both the castle and its grounds, beginning all the way in prehistoric times, covering the most important historical periods and ending in the modern day. Both informative and interesting, the time-travelling virtual tour was developed in partnership with Art Rebel 9, an innovative local production house that have pioneered the use of advanced technologies. Admission is included in the price of the castle ticket, and available in more than a dozen languages.QGrajska Planota 1, Ljubljana Castle, tel. +386 (0)1 232 99 94, www.ljubljanskigrad.si. Jan, Feb, Mar, Nov 10:00 - 20:00, Apr, May, Oct 09:00 - 21:00, June - Sept 09:00 - 23:00, Dec 10:00 - 22:00.

WINE TOURISM As would be expected from a country which borrows the lyrics for its national anthem from a poem entitled The Toast, winemaking and viticulture hold a special place in the hearts and minds of most Slovenes. With hundreds of individual vineyards - most of which are small to mediumsized family run affairs - spread across several different wine-growing regions, choosing where to visit during a short stay can be a daunting task. We’ve tried to include a wide range of options below, but as you can see, our slight bias towards and geographic proximity to the west of the country has left those regions (especially Goriška Brda) more well-represented than their counterparts in the east.

But when it comes to tasting wine and visiting vineyards, in Slovenia you can’t really go wrong.

December 2019 - February 2020

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Sightseeing

The Union Experience is a must for all beer lovers. Enjoy the legendary stories, brewing secrets, history and beer!

UNION EXPERIENCE Slovenians love their beer, and no beer is more popular in Ljubljana than locally brewed Union (pronounced ‘oo-nee-yon’ in Slovene). Founded in 1864 at a strategic location above a pure natural water source and near the railway tracks, today the brewery is virtually in the city centre, just opposite Tivoli Park and Tivoli Arena. The Union Experience is a great choice for both beer-lovers and history buffs to spend a couple of hours learning about the history of beer-making, discovering modern facilities, and of course sampling different varieties of beer and local cuisine at the in-house pub.

The experience begins with an intense yet heart-warming animated tale of Ljubljana’s famous red dragon and his inseparable connection with the legend of Union Brewery (even locals are likely to learn something new). This introduction is followed by an intriguing and educational trip through the history of the craft of brewing and a visit to two reconstructed facilities, housed in the attic of the former malthouse, a protected heritage industrial building. It includes artefacts documenting just about every aspect of beer-production over the previous century and a half.

It’s not only one of the largest museums of its kind in Europe, but also the recipient of the prestigious Museum of the Year Award from the European Museum Forum.

Lots to see and lots to learn as you take a journey through time as part of the Union Experience

52 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

If this already sounds like a lot for one tour, don’t worry, there’s a well-earned break in the middle for a tasting of traditional Union beer at a delightfully restored old inn, which also happens to be the perfect spot to snap a selfie (or five) for social media. After getting some hand-on experience of what the past was like, the experience then leads into the present with a tour through the state-of-the-art production facilities of the Union Brewery, from the raw ingredients to the packaged pallets ready for delivery.

The brewery’s modern pub and restaurant is the final stop, where you can sample a variety of different beers, including some special recipes of the brewmaster’s choice, that are exclusive to the pub. You can also choose between well-prepared typical pub fare or some delectably original dishes that wouldn’t look out of place in Ljubljana’s nicest restaurants. QB-3, Celovška cesta 22, +386 (0)41 30 30 50, www.union-experience. si, union.experience@heineken.com.

Tours depart Mon-Fri at 12:00, 14:00, 16:00 and 18:00, Sat 14:00, 16:00 and 18:00. Closed Sun. For groups of 15 or more, advanced booking is required and tours can be arranged by phone or email at alternative times Mon-Fri.

It would be rude not to sample the goods after seeing how it’s produced

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Kids Travelling with the little ones can definitely be a challenge, and Ljubljana doesn’t always cater to the sandbox segment of the population. With our useful guide to kid-friendly places in town however, boredom should easily be held at bay. Let the children delve into these great venues and events.

LJUBLJANA ZOO Not including insects, Ljubljana Zoo has over 100 species of animals from California sea lions to Siberian tigers. Much improved over the past few years, the place is now active in areas more than just showing animals to the public, with lots of educational events taking place, especially for children. Located to the west of the city centre and surrounded by the natural forests at the edge of Rožnik Hill, the zoo is easily reached on bus Nº18. A taxi will set you back somewhere in the region of €4 or you can get there on foot from the centre in less than 30 minutes. Or why not try the Ljubljana BicikeLJ which you can rent in the city for free and leave at the parking station in front of the zoo.

QJ‑4, Večna Pot 70, tel. +386 (0)1 244 21 88, www.zoo. si. Open Jan-Feb 09:00-16:30. Daily ticket €12, hourly pass €4.90.

MINICITY Minicity Ljubljana is a unique destination where children aged three to 12 are the ones in charge of running things.

Covering more than 1500 square metres, (the not so) Minicity has a real mini bakery, shop, bank with an ATM, radio station, television studio, car dealership and other play units, where children can enjoy themselves using real props and take part in various educational games

and programmes. Minicity also has a very chic baby room, changing facilities and nursing room, and parents are even welcomed to join in the fun, however, if they need to run some errands, kids can be left to conduct their minibusinesses under the watchful eyes of the animation team.

QM‑3, BTC City, Dvorana A, Šmartinska 152, tel. +386 (0)41 37 73 66, www.minicity.si. Open 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Daily ticket €12, hourly pass €4.90.

PUPPET THEATRE LJUBLJANA Regardless of where you come from, we can all remember being enchanting by puppets as children. Whether it was on TV or live performances, children all over the world sat (and still sit) wide-eyed and bushy-trailed as the puppet shows unravelled before their eyes. Lutkovno Gledališče, the central Slovenian puppet theatre, has been joyfully creating puppet shows since 1948. Slovenia has a proud puppet heritage, and the theatre goes a long way to preserving it. Taking up its current residence in 1984 on Krekov trg, the theatre has six venues in total and is visited by 110,000 people every single year. Inside the theatre we also find an adorable bookstore, where children’s books, gifts and souvenirs can be purchased. Head to the website for a full calendar of events.QD‑5, Krekov trg 2, tel. +386 (0)1 300 08 92, www.lgl.si.

Lots more for the little ones online at iyp.me/ljubljana/kids

Get up close and personal with some exotic beasts at Ljubljana’s award-winning zoo

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December 2019 - February 2020

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Joys of Winter: Ski Resorts

Set on the mountains overlooking idyllic Lake Bohinj, you won’t find a better views than those from the slopes of Vogel Ski Resort

Spring and summer may now feel like a distant memory, but even with the short days and long nights there’s still fun to be had. Winter brings with it a whole host of other activities and two of our favourites are skiing and spas. They may be at opposite ends of the spectrum in terms of physical effort required but they do go perfectly hand in hand.

After hitting the slopes (and taking a few tumbles in our case), there’s no better place than a spa to relax and rejuvenate. Here in Slovenia we’re fortunate to have a great choice of slopes and wellness centres. So when you’re ready for a snow fix or need to unwind here are our favourite places to ski! You can find lots more options on our website, as well as some fabulous thermal spa resorts and wellness centres, to relax at after or in lieu of your ski holiday.

STARI VRH At 1217m above sea level, Stari Vrh (Old Peak) sits in the hills between Škofja Loka and the Selška valley. This compact ski resort is accessible by road from nearby Škofja Loka (12km). Some 30km from Bled, the winding mountain road through Bohinj features beautiful panoramic views and makes for an ideal day trip. Stari Vrh attracts recreational skiers, especially beginners to intermediate/ families, but also hosts some official FIS competitions.

Most of the 12km of piste can be covered with artificial snow if mother nature is not cooperating with the natural stuff, and for post-piste refreshment there’s a popular restaurant at the peak.QZapreval 3, Poljane nad Škofjo Loko, tel. +386 (0)41 65 08 49, www.starivrh.si.

VOGEL Arguably the Slovenian ski resort with the best views, Vogel has become the most famous in the area, with 8 cable-cars 54 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

and 19km of piste. Several guest houses and hotels have sprung up like mushrooms at the foot of the mountain, but still better to book in advance if you plan to stop by in high season. On the mountain’s peak you will find a range of alpine restaurants, cafés and even a place to prepare your own picnic, allowing you to take a moment and soak up the incredible panorama, including unrivalled views of lake Bohinj. If you plan to venture into the wilderness, it is advisable to prepare beforehand with equipment, maps and trail routes, as not all walking tracks are visibly marked. QUkanc 6, Bohinjsko Jezero3, tel. +386 (0)45 72 97 12, www.svogel.si.

KRVAVEC Voted the best Slovene ski resort multiple times by In Your Pocket readers, its huge popularity (capacity: 13,700 skiers/hour) is partly by virtue of its proximity to Ljubljana, just 45 minutes by car. Of course the views are spectacular (1450-1971m), and the piste breathtaking, literally with 23km of medium to demanding slopes. For beginners and families there’s a ski school, large equipment rental facility and 7km of easy slopes. For everyone, there are lots of accommodation options available on the mountain (book early) - and 100 days of guaranteed skiing per year (90% artificial snow coverage). Slovenia’s flagship ski destination.

Head northbound on the A2 from Ljubljana, once out in the countryside it’s signposted from the motorway, near Kranj.

QGrad 76, Cerklje na Gorenjskem, tel. +386 (0)42 52 59 30, www.rtc-krvavec.si.

KRANJSKA GORA Considered the premier ski resort in Slovenia, Kranjska Gora (800-1210m) is a favourite haunt for rich Slovenes, Croatians and ‘western Europeans’ alike. You won’t find the most challenging runs here, but it is excellent for beginners ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Joys of Winter: Ski Resorts and intermediate skiers. If you need more speed to get the adrenaline pumping, the World Cup slope in nearby Podkoren is sure to do the trick. Cross-country skiers can take advantage of a beautiful trail, made where the train tracks used to lie, at the bottom of the valley. The slopes are spread along the Vitranc mountain ridge from Kranjska Gora all the way to Planica, and are served by 6 chairlifts and 12 drag lifts.QwMladinska 29,ww.kranjska-gora.si.

MARIBOR POHORJE Pohorje, the biggest ski centre in Slovenia, entertains everyone from beginners to advanced skiers and boarders. With 41.5 km of varied and well-kept piste, it’s non-stop fun for friends and families alike. The customary ski/board school will launch you up to the more challenging runs soon enough, but if it’s exercise and scenery you’re after, there are 27km of cross country trails. We love the location, right beside Slovenia’s second city, Maribor; explaining why it attracts so many Austrians and Croatians every year. It’s a relatively rare urban and ski experience in one. Pohorje is accessed by way of 5 chairlifts, 16 ski-lifts and a gondola, the latter even being reachable by Maribor city bus.

If you happen to have a car, Maribor is one and a half hours east from Ljubljana on the A1 motorway. Otherwise take a train then catch a city bus.QMladinska 29, tel. +386 (0)26 03 65 57, www.pohorje.org.

ROGLA Slovenia’s best cross country ski location, and beginner to intermediate adrenaline addicts downhill skiers are also well

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taken care of, with a selection of slopes, and the odd relatively demanding run. The resort is suitably well equipped, courtesy of the wellness centres, range of accommodation, restaurant and modern conference facilities (up to 250 seats). Finally, smokers sooth your guilty conscience: Rogla is a certified climatic health resort - the pure air having a virtuous effect on pulmonary health conditions.

Travelling time from Ljubljana by car: 1h 15m. Head eastbound on the A1 motorway for Maribor, exit near Velenje and follow the signs.QKovaska 10, Zrece, tel. +386 (0)37 57 61 54, www.rogla.si.

KOPE The most well-known and largest skiing area in Koroška, Kope is positioned over 1500m above sea level on the highest part of the Pohorje mountain range. The journey up to the forested heights involves a winding road (not very well paved), passing what seems like several hundred tourist farmhouses. An often early snow (November) covers the Alpine meadows until late spring, which is perfect for downhill skiers ranging from beginner and intermediate to advanced. There are seven lifts for the diverse slopes and also a 15km cross-country trail. There is ample sleeping capacity on the mountain itself (Hotel Luka, Grmovškov Dom, Apartmaji Kope), and also a restaurant with a conservatory featuring excellent panoramic views. Located east of Slovenj Gradec.QSlovenj Gradec, tel. +386 (0)2 883 98 50, www.vabo.si.

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Leisure If you’re in town and need to keep fit with a daily swim or perhaps you fancy racing around an indoor go-karting track, look no further.

ACTIVITIES AXE THROWING When the teams behind two of the largest and most fun leisure venues in Ljubljana put their heads together you know they are going to create something super-special.

Escape Room Enigmarium and team building experts Orehov gaj have brainstormed their way to success and now bring you the craziest of activities in the shape of axe throwing. Perhaps not something that would spring to many people’s minds but after 90 minutes of the wildest adventure you’ll wonder why you’ve never got to try it before. This ancient sport has been enjoying somewhat of a revival recently and in a safe environment with the guidance of professionals it might just become your new favourite pastime.QM‑3, Kajuhova 35, tel. +386 40 87 87 38, www.axe-throwing.si. Open 15:00-23:00; Sun 15:00-21:00; closed Mon. Open by prior arrangement.

VIRTUALIST Conveniently located in the city centre Virtualist is the first virtual reality centre of its kind in Slovenia, where you can immerse yourself in a virtual reality and explore new surroundings. Why not take a walk in the forest, play table tennis or if you prefer first person shooters then the choice is yours, you can jump in and out of the experiences as you please. Explore the virtual world as a single player or share the experience with friends or colleagues. They also have specially created titles for multiple players, all of which make for a fun-packed team building or day out.QB‑6, Gregorčičeva ulica 13a, tel. +386 (0)5 9138415, www. virtualist.si. Open 16:00-21:00; closed Sun.

BILLIARDS BILJARDNA HIŠA LJUBLJANA Ljubljana’s most popular, and our personal favourite, classic pool hall now has second location in the centre of town, underneath the Bavarski Dvor business district. The large premises are divided into several different areas, with an American-style diner in front, another large dining area and bar further back that opens into the actual pool hall, and even a large smoking tucked away to one side. In addition to all the brand new tables, dart boards, pinball machines and other brand new amenities, this location also features a full menu, from breakfast through to late night snacks. The bright, sparkling venue also hosts various concerts (primarily rock), as well as some billiards tournaments - it is a pool hall after all. Open late every night.QSlovenska 58, tel. +386 1 235 51 71, www.biljardna-hisa.com. Open 08:00-02:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-02:00. A­P­G­X­B­I­E­S­R­W­K­Y­i BILJARDNICA KAVAL With seven pool tables to play on, as well as snooker, darts and table football on offer, Biljardnica Kaval is the perfect 56 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

venue to enjoy some time out. Friendly competitions can be organised by the staff and will be refereed by an experienced player. You’ll find them at Tacenska Cesta 95 where ample parking is available, or if you wish to sample beverages from their wide selection of craft and domestic beers then the bus stop is just a one minute walk away. Their covered garden is open all year round and heated during winter, where you can enjoy their food and snacks. Music and party nights make this a great place to hang out and make new friends.QTacenska Cesta 95, tel. +386 41 702 914, www.kaval-group.si. Open 16:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-24:00.

ESCAPE ROOMS ESCAPE CASTLE Escape rooms have become increasingly popular over the last few years, newest on the block for Ljubljana is Escape Castle which, as you may have guessed, takes place within the castle walls. You have one hour to follow the game map and rescue the dragon. As you solve the five dragon tests you will learn about the history of the castle and urban legends, and also discover parts of the castle that have previously been off limits to the public.QD‑6, Grajska Planota 1, Ljubljana Castle, tel. +386 1 306 42 93, www.ljubljanskigrad.si/. Jan-Mar & Nov every 10min from 10:00-16:00, Apr, May & Oct 9:00-18:00, Jun-Sep 9:00-19:00, Dec 10:00-17:00.

ESCAPE ROOM ENIGMARIUM The first of its kind in town, Escape Room Enigmarium offers one of a kind tests for groups of two to five players: escape from one of their six different immersive and entertaining rooms in the city centre in one hour. If getting locked in a room isn’t your thing, they also offer an outdoor escape adventure game called Unlock Ljubljana, where participants can learn about the city’s hidden secrets. And for those who don’t like solving puzzles, there’s ‘Sensperience’, a sensory escape/theatre game, where you can close your eyes and feel, smell, touch and interact with the world around you the most immersive way imaginable. Gather your team and book now!QD‑4, Trdinova ulica 8, tel. +386 31 33 44 88, www.escape-room.si.

BOWLING IS FOR PUSSIES. Dust off your plaid flannel shirt and come throw axes in an upbeat atmosphere filled with good music and fun!

kajuhova 35, Ljubljana

www.AXE-THROWING.si

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Shopping

Any visiting fashionistas will definitely want to check out the current collection at Cliché in the old town, and shouldn’t have any difficulty when it’s lit up like this at night. Read more under Slovene Fashion below.

One of the great things about Ljubljana is the fact that you can shop the old-fashioned way, strolling the city centre’s streets, ducking in and out of any number of high street shops, local brands and unusual little boutiques.

The main shopping streets in the city centre are Mestni and Stari Trg at the base of Castle Hill, Trubarjeva, Wolfova Ulica and Miklošičeva on the opposite bank. There are also plenty of shops in the grid of streets between Slovenska Cesta and the river. If you’d like a mall experience however, head out to the gargantuan BTC City, a couple of kilometres from the city centre on the road to Maribor.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES EXTRAORDINARY Not only is this store located in one of the coolest parts of the old town but its interior is every bit as stylish as the collections it houses. It was designed by the folks from Yuka Studio who base their work on reusability, sustainability and local production. The same philosophy applies to Extraordinary’s own brand of handcrafted shirts which are sustainable and fair trade, as are the other worldwide recognisable brands they carry such as Closed, Veja, Rains and Ecoalf, plus Slovenain designer Timotej Bistan. Non-apparel items include handmade ceramic pieces from Sisi and Hana Karim and Skin Regimen and Nathalie Bond natural cosmetics, Borboleta jewellery, Meta Wraber illustrations plus lots more. This is the perfect store to find an interesting gift or, better still, just a little something for yourself.QC‑6, Novi Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 425 11 07, www.liliinroza.si/extraordinary-concept-store/. Open 10:00-19:30; Sat 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-14:00.

LEFORMA Leforma is Ljubljana’s largest sports and fashion goods store with brands such as Superdry, Iriedaily, Quiksilver, Roxy, Fjällräven, Sorel,Kjus, J. Lindeberg, Hestra, Arpin, Degre 7, Henri www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

Duvillard, Falke. It is located in the Crystal Palace building at BTC City. You’ll receive a warm greeting from experienced staff who can advise you on all your sporting needs, from footwear to accessories and year round fashions.QM‑3, Ameriška 8, BTC City, tel. +386 (0)5 994 61 80, www.leforma.si. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Sun. A­PL PETIT BATEAU Petit Bateau is a century-old tradition based on the things that should be a part of everyday life: youthful playfulness, sincere happiness and endless comfort. Since 1893 the brand has been an indispensable companion for children and adults for whom quality and comfort are important.

QD‑6, Stari Trg 30, tel. +386 (0)5 993 49 89, www. liliinroza.si. Open 09:30-19:30; Sat 09:30-17:00; Sun 10:00-14:00. A­P­T­J TRGOVINA Formerly Ljubljana’s official Quiksilver store, its new name might very well make it impervious to Google searches

EXTRAORDINARY., TRAJNOSTNO NARAVNAN KONCEPT NOVI TRG 6, BREG, LJUBLJANA WWW.LILIINROZA.SI

December 2019 - February 2020

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Shopping

Find all your favourite sports brands at Leforma in BTC City

(‘trgovina’ is simply the Slovene word for ‘shop’), but its range now includes a wider selection of top international sportswear fashion brands, such as Roxy and Superdry, in addition to Quiksilver. Luckily for shoppers, and in an ironic twist that Luddites such as ourselves can appreciate, its physical location is no problem at all to find, as its set near the south end of Mestni Trg in the old town.QD‑6, Mestni Trg 16, tel. +386 (0)1 251 10 73/+386 (0)51 222 069. Open 10:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-17:00; Sat 09:0020:00. A­P­J

TOP GIFTS

5

It’s name just means ‘shop’ in Slovene, and Trgovina is the shop to visit for all your favourite active sportswear brands and accessories.

SLOVENE FASHION CLICHÉ SHOP GALLERY Ljubljana-based Cliché Jelena Pirkmajer is one of the most intriguing fashion labels in the so-called ‘new Europe’. The designs are all created using a principle of FQ, or Fashion Intelligence Quotient, which promotes the longevity of forms and compatibility of pieces from new collections with previous ones. Cliché’s shop and gallery on Novi Trg offers both collections from its own brand, as well as complimentary accessories from designers based in Europe,

Floios Jewelry hello@floios.com

AND SOUVENIRS

Floios Jewelry is an award-winning sustainable jewellery brand handmade in Ljubljana from recycled silver and “designed” by local plants.

Atelje Dobnik

Oliviers & Co

Cankarjevo Nabrežje 19

Ciril Metodov trg 20

High quality artisan chocolates, desserts, natural ice cream and great hospitality plus of course excellent coffee to boot.

The very best of the Mediterranean, in the shape of the finest olive oils, truffles, spreads, cosmetics and much more.

iyp.me/150622

iyp.me/70811

iyp.me/165852

Filipov Dvorec

The Slovenia Books

Cankarjevo Nabrežje 1

Miklošičeva 38

Excellent store located right by Triple Bridge, stop by and enjoy their wonderful selection of top quality gifts and souvenirs.

THE Slovenia publishing offers a variety of elegant, best-selling books about Slovenia, which make the perfect gifts or souvenirs.

iyp.me/147417

www.the-slovenia.com

58 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Shopping GET THE PERFECT SOUVENIR

• Handmade crystal from Slovenia •

hand weaving

mrzelj roèno tkanje Katarina Mrzelj design

art and craft linen clothing Ciril Metodov trg 5 Ljubljana

www.katarinamrzelj.si

ROGAŠKA STORE LJUBLJANA

Mestni trg 22 1000 Ljubljana t: +386 1 241 27 01

modern Slovene design. You can pick up great souvenirs here as a lot of the products represent the beauty of Ljubljana in artistic forms, or if you’re looking for a unique garment, decorative product or piece of art, you’ve come to the right place.QD‑5, Ciril-Metodov Trg 13, tel. +386 (0)1 232 17 43, www.trgovinaika.si. Open 9:00-19:30; Sat 09:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. A­P­J

FOOD & DRINK

the US and Japan.QC‑6, Novi Trg 6, tel. +386 1 42 631 52, www.cliche.si. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00.

P­JAWT HAND WEAVING MRZELJ (ROČNO TKANJE) The beginnings of the Mrzelj family hand weaving tradition date back to 1970. Majda Mrzelj was a designer and a weaver by profession and her husband carefully and diligently planned and made looms based on the available museum exhibits. Upgrading, improving and perfecting the traditional techniques of weaving was a challenge for the unique designer, her daughter Katarina Mrzelj, a landscape architect.

Katarina started weaving in a unique and experimental way combining both the present and the past. Mrzelj hand-woven linen clothing attracts and astonishes with its elegant harmony, fairy-like femininity, amiability, naturalness; with its delicate structure and artistic accent of the fabric texture, but also with the natural materials and their primary colors. Katarina’s independent style, her vision and visibility speak of elegance with style for every occasion.QD‑5/6, Ciril Metodov trg 5, tel. +386 (0)31 425 220, www.katarinamrzelj.si. Wed - Fri 09:00 - 16:30. Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun and holidays, except by prior arrangement.

TRGOVINA IKA IKA Shop puts the creativity of local Slovene artists, designers and innovators at the forefront of its shelves, exhibiting a wonderful selection of products showcasing www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

MAXI GOURMET MARKET NEW We’re always happy to hear of new places where there’s excellent food to be had. Latest to Ljubljana is Maxi Gourmet, which you’ll find beneath Maxi Market on Trg republike. Maxi’s new culinary department offers you a gourmet trip around the world - street food, innovative snacks and good old Slovenian classics. Say goodbye to monotony, your breakfast, lunch or dinner will be a real gourmet treat from now on.QTrg Republike 1. Open 09:00-21:00; Sat 08:00-20:00; Sun 08:00-13:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS FRIDERIK THE RAT CASTLE SOUVENIR SHOP With Ljubljana’s spectacular castle proudly overlooking the city there’s surely no better place to purchase souvenirs and keepsakes than from its very own gift shop.

ARTS AND CRAFT GALLERY Stritarjeva 9 Open every day +386 (0)1 251 17 18 www.galerijarustika.si December 2019 - February 2020

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Shopping SLOVENIAN DESIGNER FROM TRGOVINA IKA Slovenian Design Shop since 1992

Handbag • Naramo • 290 €

Kitchen Utensils • Leis • 36 €

Wooden earrings Pararok • 14 €

Woolen soap • Oloop • 18 €

Item finder • Chipolo • 25 €

Lace scarves • Baragaga • 79 €

Silkprinted apron • 39 €

Woolen hat • 29 €

Wooden earrings • Woody • 12 € Polonapolona • Mug David • 23 € Trgovina IKA • Ciril-Metodov trg 13 • Ljubljana IG/FB: trgovinaika • www.trgovinaika.si Mo–Fr: 9 a.m.– 7.30 p.m. • Sat: 9 a.m.–8 p.m. • Sun: 10 a.m.–8 p.m.

Check our online shop, we ship your gifts worldwide.

60 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

BARAGAGA Baragaga brand has been established by a painter and artist Ksenija Baraga. It is a local, family run business. She makes colourful scarves, wollen blankets, colourful headbands, turbans and barrettes with flowers. Everything is made of quality woolen materials (fine merino wool) in very small, mostly unique series. Some products are hand knitted or crocheted, some are made on knitting machines, but everything is finished manually. The colourful Baragaga products playfully reinterpret traditional patterns with artistic interventions. Traditional slovenian lace and avbica are used for scarves, handbands and turbans.

QVisit Trgovina IKA or shop online www.trgovinaika.si.

‘Friderik’ is named after the castle’s oldest resident, Friderik the rat, who was one of the first inhabitants some five hundred years ago. You’ll find a superb range of goodies including hats, slippers, jewellery, stationary, mugs and clothing as well as a delightful range of consumables such as honey, chocolate and liquors. To find out more about Friderik and his wonderful stories visit the shop where you’ll also see him emblazoned onto some of his favourite products.QD‑6, Grajska Planota 1, LJubljanski grad, tel. +386 (0)1 306 42 11, www.ljubljanskigrad.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00 (Nov till 18:00). A­J GALERIJA RUSTIKA Featuring the largest selection of high quality Slovene handicraft products in the country, Rustika is equal parts gallery and shop. Perusing the collection with the help of a knowledgeable staff member feels a bit like taking a guided tour through the many diverse regions and cultures found within Slovenia’s borders. Highlights include traditional beehive panels produced by an award-winning local artisan, world famous Idrijan lace, and various different seasonal specialties.QD‑5, Stritarjeva 9, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 18/+386 (0)31 459 509, www.galerijarustika. si. April-May 09:00 - 20:00 Jun-Oct 09:00 - 21:00 NovMar 10:00 - 18:00. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Shopping LJUBLJANČEK Conveniently located with shops at Ljubljana airport and the Grand Hotel Union in the city centre, Ljubljanček is the perfect place to pick up a memento or gift. With a vast range of Ljubljana and Slovenia related souvenirs, from stuffed dragons to painted beehive panels and bottles of local honey liqueur, everyone can find a great memento to take back home with them. This grand statement is tried-and-true, with Bill Clinton, Chuck Norris, Umberto Eco and Ricardo Mutti, among others, all finding something that captured their time in Slovenia.QD‑5, Miklošičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)5 902 57 27, www.ljubljanasouvenirs.com. Open 08:00-14:00; Sat 08:00-13:00; Sun 08:00-12:00.

KRAŠEVKA ‘Food glorious food’ goes the song and you may well find yourself humming it as you scan the shelves of this tasty shop. A family-run business, Kraševka provides an outlet for local produce that until recently was only sold directly from the farmer to the passing food-a-phile. It started off specialising in produce from the sea but has now expanded to include all manner of Slovene delicacies from pumpkin-seed oil to Teran wines to jams, cheeses, vinegar and dried meats. Catering to the inner gourmet lurking in most of us, Kraševka well lives up to its mission statement of selling ‘home-made foods that are produced with love’.QD‑5, Vodnikov Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)12 32 14 45, www.krasevka.si. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. 15.1.-15.3. 09.00-18.00.

A­P ­J PIRANSKE SOLINE Times have changed since Roman soldiers were paid in salt but this mineral still ranks as one of life’s essentials.

Here at Piranske Soline the canvas bags that fill the windows and the shelves are full of the stuff. There is salt for cooking, including the famous Piran salt, hand-scraped from coastal deposits, along with salted chocolates and a wide range of salt-related accessories such as salt mills and containers. And if all the walking you’ve done has made you a little weary, you can pick up some pick-me-ups in the form of bath salts and scrubs from the Lepa Vida natu-

Best Wishes in 2020!

Ljubljanček - souvenir shop Miklošičeva 1 (in Hotel Union) & Airport Brnik www.ljubljana-souvenirs.com

www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

December 2019 - February 2020

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Nama, d. d. Ljubljana, Tomšičeva ulica 1, 1000 Ljubljana

Shopping

NAMA department store Tomšičeva ulica 2, 1000 Ljubljana

nama.si

62 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Opening hours: Monday to Saturday: 9.00 - 21.00 ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Shopping GLOBAL BLUE Non-EU residents can take advantage of an added bonus whilst visiting Slovenia: tax free shopping courtesy of Global Blue! If you’ve been considering buying a new laptop or camera, or just fancy going on a shopping spree from this season’s newest fashion, then your trip to Ljubljana is the perfect time to finally do so, as you’ll receive a refund when departing the country on any VAT you paid on purchases over €50 during your stay. Global Blue has some 270,000 partner stores around the world, and nowadays it’s easier than ever to find which ones are closest to you with the convenient Global Blue App. Just make sure to ask for the Global Blue Tax Free Form when shopping, as well as an original receipt (usually with a stamp), and then present these at Customs at Ljubljana Airport or any international bordering crossing. Officially all items must be unused and in their original packaging, and we can unfortunately say from experience that this can sometimes be strictly enforced. Happy shopping!

See globalblue.com for more info.

ral beauty range.QD‑6, Mestni Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)1 425 01 90, www.soline.si. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 09:0017:00. A­J­6 ROGAŠKA CRYSTAL Rogaška Crystal is one of the leading producers of crystal ware in the world and you’ll find the largest collection of Rogaska Crystal right here in Slovenia. The company’s flagship store in Ljubljana is located in the old town (opposite the town hall) and offers a wide range of elegant designer Rogaška crystal ware including beautiful glasses, carafes and vases. Also on sale is a select range of stunning Royal Albert china. The store’s artfully packaged items make excellent gifts or souvenirs from your visit to Slovenia.QD‑6, Mestni Trg 22, tel. +386 (0)1 241 27 01, www.steklarna-rogaska.si. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Sun. A­P ­J TREASURES OF SLOVENIA Stepping through the doors of this store is like walking into Aladdin’s cave. The shelves are bursting with so many interesting things one should be prepared to allow plenty of time for browsing the selection of foods, drinks and handicrafts. From the finest quality chocolates and biscuits to craft beers and viljamovka (pear brandy), you’ll be spoiled for choice. Whether you’re looking for a gift or souvenir to take home, or just want to pick up a tasty local speciality, you’re sure to find it here. And, as the name implies, everything is made right here in Slovenia.QCiril-Metodov Trg 10, tel. +386 1 231 21 13. Open 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:0017.00. www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

SAVE UP TO 16% WHEN YOU SHOP TAX FREE IN SLOVENIA Find out more at globalblue.com

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Shopping HOUSE & HOME DEŽNIK UMBRELLA REPAIR Producing handmade umbrellas since 1966, this family run business is the last shop of its kind in Slovenia - and we’re doubtful there is another like it anywhere. Their bespoke umbrellas make for a perfect gift or souvenir, though quality comes at a (hefty) price. Committed to making umbrellas last a lifetime, Dežnik also repair broken brollies and sell an eclectic range of recycled umbrellas and accessories, which make great gifts at bargain prices.QD‑5, Truberjeva 13, tel. +386 (0)1 431 60 36. Open Mon, Tue 10:0012:00; Thu 15:00-19:00; closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

MARKETS Slovenia’s fertile soil and mild Mediterranean climate makes it the perfect breeding ground for a variety of fruits and vegetables. The markets bring about the freshest produce from the local villages and farms along with dairy products and meats. The Central Market at Vodnikov Trg and Pogacarjev Trg, designed by the famous architect Joze Plecnik, is a particularly excellent place both for shopping and socialising.

CENTRAL MARKET Many people would argue that no single place in Ljubljana encapsulates the heart and soul of the Slovenian people more than Prešeren Square. However, with all due respect to the famed tragic poet and the indisputably lovely square that bears his name just across the Ljubljanica river, for our proverbial money this distinction can only go to Central Market, which is the most direct connection between the vibrant rural areas that cover most of Slovenia and the more urban and cosmopolitan capital city. While strictly speaking the Central Market (or Centralna Tržnica in Slovene) is the building found to the west of Vodnik Square, the square itself is the heart of the bustling action, and the beautiful Plečnik Arcade running along the river to the north is also an integral part of the magical atmosphere. Fruit, vegetables, plants and other produce can be found outside, while meat, cheese, preserves, alcohol and countless other domača (or homemade) products can be purchased within. Rain or shine the various stalls are open every day except Sunday, with Saturday mornings traditionally being the busiest and most exciting time to visit, while it’s also worth noting that the action usually dies down by early- to midafternoon on weekdays. Definitely a must on any trip to Ljubljana!QD‑5, Vodnikov trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 300 12 30, www.lpt.si/trznice. Open 06:00-18:00; Sat 06:00-16:00; closed Sun. Closes at 16:00 in winter.

Much more shopping info at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com 64 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Where to Stay Not surprisingly for a popular tourist and business destination, Ljubljana provides a wide range of accommodation options to suit all tastes and budgets. As you’d expect, prices creep up the closer you get to the centre, but the cost of a night here still remains relatively low in comparison with Western Europe. The city’s popularity does mean however that places do book up for the summer. Ensuring you get yourself the room you want in the location you want and for the price you want during the peak summer season is highly recommended.

Hotel Categories Hotels are listed by price, and then by alphabetical order within that price range. Prices refer to the standard rack rate for a double room.

APARTMENTS CACAO ROOMS Accommodation in Ljubljana doesn’t get any more centrally-located than these fine rooms next to the popular café of the same name. Located just a few metres from the famed Prešeren Square, all of Ljubljana’s essential sights are within easy walking distance, and there’s even a view of the Cathedral on the opposite bank from the windows.

The rooms themselves are modern and comfortable, with especially spacious bathrooms, flat screen TVs and complimentary toiletries, all set in an historic 19th-century building that was completely renovated in 2015. If you’re coming by car, it’s a good idea to arrange parking in advance, as Ljubljana’s entire old town is a pedestrian-only zone.

QD‑5, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 5, www.cacao-rooms. com.si/. P­W­J­ DEŽELA OKUSOV B&B It’s no secret how fond we are of the food that Restaurant Dežela okusov serve up, so it stands to reason that their bed and breakfast offerings would be of the same high standard.

All rooms are comfortable, stylish and immaculately clean, with a choice of doubles with en suite bathroom and balcony, smaller doubles and even dormitory options for those on a tight budget. Whichever room you stay in, you’ll still be in a prime location just a few minutes walk from the city centre. Breakfast is a selection of high quality options in buffet style. Excellent all round!QC‑7, Eipprova 11 - Trnovo, tel. +386 1 283 92 88, www.dezela-okusov.si/. P­W­K­ MARTASTUDIO These four self-contained studios and one large 106m² apartment are reasonably priced alternatives to booking a hotel. All fitted with modern facilities, including kitchenettes, the family-run accommodation is just a short 15-minute walk from the city centre, or an even shorter bus ride from the stop just a few metres away (lines 1 and 6). A supermarket, restaurants and banks are all nearby, and airport pick-up can be arranged for little more than the cost of a bus. The entrance is in the same building as the shop Mavrica, look for the house in the courtyard with the red façade.

QK‑4, Tržaška 24, www.martastudio.eu. A­LT6 www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

HOTELS OVER €170 GRAND HOTEL UNION QD‑5, Miklošičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 308 12 70, www. union-hotels.eu. 194 rooms (singles from €90, doubles €105). A­P­G­X­U­L­J­R­6­W­K­H­C­DF hhhh GRAND HOTEL UNION BUSINESS QD‑5, Miklošičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 308 1170/+386 (0)1 308 1914, www.union-hotels.eu/en/grand-hotelunion-business/. 133 rooms (singles from €90, doubles from €100). A­P­G­X­T­U­L­J­R­6­W­K­H­ C­D­F­hhhh HOTEL CUBO QC‑6, Slovenska 15, tel. +386 (0)1 425 60 00, fax +386 (0)1 425 60 20, www.hotelcubo.com. 26 rooms (singles €140, doubles €180, suites €350). A­P­G­X­T­B­ I­L­J­W­K­H­hhhh INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL QK‑3, Slovenska Cesta 59, tel. +386 (0) 59 128 000, www. ihg.com/. A­Z­P­G­U­B­L­J­W­K­H­C­D­F­

HOTELS €100-170 ADORA HOTEL QD‑7, Rožna ulica 7, tel. +386 (0) 82 05 72 40, fax +386 (0) 82 05 72 41, www.adorahotel.si. A­P­G­T­U­ B­L­J­R­6­W­i BEST WESTERN PREMIER HOTEL SLON QC‑5, Slovenska 34, tel. +386 (0)1 470 11 00, fax +386 (0)1 470 11 70, www.hotelslon.com. Open 00:00-24:00. 170 rooms (singles from €90, doubles from €110). A­Z­P­ G­B­I­L­J­R­6­W­K­H­D­F­Y­i hhhh FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON LJUBLJANA MONS QI‑4, Pot Za Brdom 4, tel. +386 (0)1 470 27 00, fax +386 (0)1 470 27 08, www.fourpointsljubljanamons.com. 114 rooms (€89 - 350). A­P­G­X­T­R­6­W­K­H­ D­F hhhh

Idrijska ulica 1 T: +386 (0)51207707 info@martastudio.eu www.martastudio.eu

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Where to Stay restored) Gostilna Gorjanc restaurant has been serving travellers at the same location since the end of the 18th century. The large well-furnished rooms feature soft lighting and super comfortable beds, with panoramic views of Ljubljana castle in the distance. Well-equipped conference facilities and meeting rooms are available, and for a real treat you can dine ‘in bed’ at the unique G Super Club. The hotel is conveniently situated just off the Brezovica exit on the motorway, at the edge of the forest just a short drive south of the city centre.QH‑5, Tržaška cesta 330, tel. +386 (0)1 200 91 00, fax +386 (0)1 200 91 30, www. gdesignhotel.si. 22 rooms (singles €85-115, doubles €120-150, suites €280-350). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­L­ 6­W­K­H­F­hhhh

HOTELS UNDER €70 PARK ŽIBERT QJ‑1, Celovška 335, /+386 1 507 62 30, www.parkzibert.si. A­P­L­W­K SLOVENSKA HIŠA VIDA QK‑1, Savlje 87, tel. +386 (0)40 47 54 26.

Træaπka cesta 330, Ljubljana T +386 (0)1 200 9 100 info@gdesignhotel.si, www.gdesignhotel.si

HOTEL GALLERIA 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 35 60,20/06/2017 www. hotelgalleria.eu/. 16 rooms (singles €120-125, doubles €15-180, extra bed €50) . A­Z­P­X­T­B­I­J­R­ 6­W­H­hhhh

nYourPocket 60x90.indd QD‑6, Gornji1Trg

HOTEL LEV QC‑4, Vošnjakova 1, tel. +386 (0)1 308 7000, fax +386 (0)1 308 7500, www.union-hotels.eu/en/hotel-lev/. 173 rooms (singles from €68, doubles from €80). A­P­G­ X­U­J­R­6­W­K­H­F­i hhhh

HOTELS €70-100 B&B HOTEL PARK LJUBLJANA QE‑4, Tabor 9, tel. +386 (0)1 300 25 00, www.hotelpark. si. 200 rooms (singles €60-110, doubles €80-150, apartments €150-180). A­P­G­X­T­U­J­R­6­W­H­i hhh DVOR TACEN QPot Sodarjev 2, tel. +386(0)8 205 56 11, www. dvortacen.si. €80-145. A­P­G­X­T­B­I­L­6­W­ G DESIGN HOTEL The exceedingly modern G Design may be one of Ljubljana’s newest hotels, but it also boasts over two hundred years of tradition, as the still functioning (and beautifully 66 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

HOSTELS CELICA Newly renovated in 2018, Ljubljana’s legendary Celica hostel and surrounding buildings close to the bus and train stations and the city centre started life in the 19th century as an Austro-Hungarian military barracks. Once a prison, many of Celica’s rooms have preserved their original char12:06 acter, providing a cheap and definitely quirky place to spend the night behind bars. Other rooms are also available as well as dormitories to sleep from four to 12 people.

There’s even a room for disabled guests, plus a huge range of other facilities such as kitchen, laundry, internet access, tourist information and bicycle hire.QF‑1/2, Metelkova ulica 8, tel. +386 (0)12 30 97 00, www.hostelcelica.com.

A­P­G­T­U­B­L­J­R­6­W­

EDITOR’S PICK VILA VESELOVA Vila Veselova really makes the most of its location in a 19th century mansion house. It helps that upon arrival you are welcomed by some of the most charming working people we’ve had the pleasure of meeting.

We don’t know how long we’ve been clamouring for bunk bed shelves and private electricity sockets, but Vila Veselova provide them in their excellent specialmade bunks. Relaxing balconies, a delightful garden, plenty of free parking and free breakfast are also included, but it is the atmosphere and comfort that will make it almost impossible to leave.QB‑5, Veselova 14, tel. +386 (0)59 92 67 21. J­GKAL­B6W

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Vila Planinka

Prešeren Fair in Kranj © Zavod za turizem in kulturo Kranj

Church of St John the Baptist in Bohinj

Velika Planina near Kamnik

Highlights of Slovenia WITH LJUBLJANA LOCATED IN NEARLY THE GEOGRAPHICAL CENTRE OF SUCH SMALL COUNTRY, VIRTUALLY ALL OF SLOVENIA’S MAJOR ATTRACTIONS AND INTERESTING DESTINATIONS ARE AN EASY DAY TRIP FROM THE CAPITAL. THIS ISSUE WE TAKE A LOOK AT THREE ABSOLUTE ALPINE GEMS.

Kranj

Kranj’s town centre has plenty to offer tourists; history, architecture, monuments and tunnels. Drop into TIC Kranj for tips and info to help you plan your visit.

Perched on a rocky promontory at the confluence of the Sava and Kokra rivers, the old town of Kranj has one of the most spectacular medieval skylines that you’ll likely ever see, with its three distinct church towers and an unreal backdrop of the Slovenian Alps rising up only a few kilometres to the north. Not as well-known as Bled or as heavily trodden by tourists as Kranjska Gora, in most senses of the word Kranj is still the true capital of the Gorenjska region. It’s Kranj’s historic centre that is the main draw for most tourists and daytrippers. Protected as a national cultural monument since 1983, the lively old town boasts a variety of diverse sights, from religious monuments and ethnological museums to modern arts spaces and unique remnants from World War II. For most Slovenes the city is inextricably linked with the nation’s greatest poet, France Prešeren, who lived and worked here in the mid-19th century. The many fascinating sights in, around and under Kranj’s old town make it the perfect place to explore on foot, with a guided tour, arrangements for which are best made at the local TIC office..

UNDERGROUND MYSTERY OF KRANJ The tunnels that are 1300 metres long and were built 70 year ago as a shelter for the townspeople have now been transformed into an interesting tourist attraction. They can tell you stories from WWII with a reconstruction of the bomb shelter or the simulation of an air strike. But you can also admire real dripstones and little cave animals there.

There are guided tours through the Tunnels Under the Old Town of Kranj each Tuesday and Friday at 5pm and each Saturday and Sunday at 10am. The meeting point is at the Kranjska hiša tourist information centre and the price is €3 per person. Guided tours for groups can be arranged by prior booking.

CHEERFUL AND FESTIVE WINTER IN THE CITY Kranj is one of the most charming Slovenian towns. Locals like to say that it’s a small town with a big heart. It has many interesting historical and cultural characteristics, as well as versatile programmes for tourists. All year round, there is a lively atmosphere with many cultural, entertainment and traditional events. On 1 December, the Christmas lights will be switched on with a big celebration, inviting you to a series of magical winter events. There 68 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

will be enchanting decorations and festive lights. This year’s Cheerful December (1–31 Dec) will also host many charity events, since locals have good thoughts in their hearts, as the poet France Prešeren put it. And speaking of Prešeren, in February there is one of the best-known events in Kranj - Prešeren’s Fair (8 Feb). In the memory of the great poet, Dr France Prešeren, the town takes a step back in time, right to the 19th century. To say goodbye to winter and hello to spring, there is the Cheerful Carnival (22 Feb). This festival of joy brings many masks to the streets of Kranj and the scent of doughnuts everywhere.

Spend these festive days in cheerful company!

CULINARY KRANJ With its wealth of cultural, historical and natural sights, Kranj’s culinary offering often gets overlooked, but the city’s restaurants and cafés are reason enough to visit.

Of course it all begins with the famous ‘Kranjska Klobasa’ sausage, which no trip is complete without trying, and Gostišče Arvaj or Stari Mayr are both great options for doing so, while non-meat eaters should head to Gostišče Kot to sample the local version of Slovene cheese dumplings known as štruklji. Kranj now also boasts its own local microbrewery, so make sure to order a pint of Kranjsko pivo when you’re ready to relax a bit after an active day of sightseeing.

TIC KRANJ Set in a beautiful 16th-century townhouse right in the centre of the old town, Kranj’s tourist information centre is the most logical first stop for most visitors to the city. In addition to countless brochures in a variety of languages covering everything in Kranj and elsewhere in the Gorenjska region (several of which can even be downloaded directly from their website), there’s free internet, a fine selection of gifts and souvenirs and small gallery with contemporary art exhibitions. Arrangements can also be made for a tour with an experienced local guide. QGlavni Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)4 2380 450, info@visitkranj.si, www.visitkranj.com. Open 08:0019:00, Sun 09:00-18:00.

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The Capital of the Slovenian Alps Cheerful December

KRANJ IS THE CAPITAL OF GORENJSKA 30 min drive from Ljubljana / 20 min drive from Bled

Tunnels under the old town of Kranj

Kokra River canyon

Culinary trio of Kranj

Old town of Kranj

www.visitkranj.com

#VisitKranj

Bohinj

Enjoy these breathtaking views of beautiful Lake Bohinj blanketed in snow from the Vogel Ski Resort

LAKE BOHINJ In the heart of the Triglav National Park and in the embrace of the Julian Alps, the largest lake in Slovenia is surrounded by the magnificent peaks of the Bohinj Mountain Range.

Picturesque valleys and stunning pastures still follow the traditions of cheese-making and cohabitation with nature.

Numerous activities and adventures in this unspoiled environment can be fully explored in all seasons, and shared with the hospitable locals.

SAVICA WATERFALL Time spent in Bohinj wouldn’t be complete without a trip to one of Slovenia’s greatest waterfalls. The water from Lake Bohinj comes from the Savica Waterfall that springs amidst the steep wall of Komarča and creates a magnificent 78m high waterfall.

From the peaceful and quiet lake, water courses through Slovenia’s shortest river, the Jezernica, which after a few metres joins the Mostnica and together they create the Sava Bohinjka River. A truly inspirational sight, it ‘s often been written about by well-known Slovenian poets and writers. A small entrance fee is required at the entrance to the site. QTurizem Bohinj, tel. +386 (0) 4 57 47 590, info@bohinj.si, www.bohinj.si.

Admission €1.50 - €3.

PLANINSKI DOM SAVICA (ALPINE LODGE SAVICA) A beautiful wooden affair in a perfect location near the fabulous Savica Waterfall, this fine establishment provides rest, sustenance and accommodation all year round to hikers, cyclists and other outdoor types who visit the region, although it really comes into its own during the winter when it provides much-needed shelter for skiers in a selection of double bed rooms. The restaurant itself is impressive, specialising in local dishes with plenty of modern twists for breakfast, lunch, evening meals and special occasions.

QUkanc 102, tel. +386 (0)51 644 316, booking@ vogel.si, www.vogel.si. Open daily throughout the year.

70 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

VOGEL SKI RESORT The Vogel Ski Centre is family friendly and the only ski resort in the Triglav National Park. With its natural snow it’s one of our favourite places to hit the slopes, not least because of the incredible panoramic views of the Julian Alps and Lake Bohinj. But you don’t need to wait for the snow to check out the scenery, magnificent views and enjoy some other outdoor activities because Vogel is a great year-round destination.

During the warmer months the views are even more spectacular, with the mountainsides painted with colourful wild flowers. The summit Orlove glave is easily reached by chairlift.

In addition to the countless opportunities for hiking, there are also restaurants serving up some excellent, local cuisine.

Walk along the Theme educational path or Culinary path, or if you’re looking for an adrenaline hit why not try the Zip Line, Bike Park or paragliding.QDuring the winter season is open daily 08:00 - 18:00 (every 30 minutes).

Vogel, d.o.o. , Ukanc 6, tel. +386 (0)4 5729 712, booking@ vogel.si, www.vogel.si.

BOHINJSKO / FROM BOHINJ A brand guaranteeing the geographical origin of products and sevices. Try high quality craft and culinary products as well as drinks and food at various inns and restaurants. All products are certifi ed in accordance with strict standards and criteria and by respecting traditional values, local materials, produce and ingredients. The Quality centre Bohinj monitors the development, image and quality of certifi ed products and provides constant professional help and support to local entrepreneurial initiatives.QTurizem Bohinj Quality Centre. QTel. +386 (0)4 57 47 590, bohinjsko@bohinj.si, www.bohinj.si/ bohinjsko. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Vila Planinka Boutique Hotel

The Vila Planinka boutique hotel is the perfect place to unplug, unwind and relax, in all seasons

GET IN TOUCH WITH NATURE The new Vila Planinka is located in Zgornje Jezersko, a picturesque Alpine valley at the heart of Europe, where nature is the ultimate luxury. Surrounded by four natural energy points, Vila Planinka is the perfect place to relax.

Take part in stimulating active leisure activities, develop a deep connection with your natural surroundings and rejuvenate both body and mind.

Go ahead and book your return visit for spring or summer, when Jezersko’s nature really blooms

Enjoy world-class local cuisine

INFORMATION: Vila Planinka, Zgornje Jezersko 67, 4206 Zgornje Jezersko, Slovenia + 386 4 255 97 50 unplug@vilaplaninka.com www.vilaplaninka.com 72 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

A BOUTIQUE HOME-AWAY-FROM-HOME The concept of Vila Planinka is that of a boutique homeaway-from-home. The hotel has been created using natural materials from the surrounding area and there are just 23 rooms, each of which offers a relaxed atmosphere, Alpine chic design and beautiful views of the surrounding landscape. Rooms feature no electric devices or wiring elements that would block the soothing energy emitted by the natural energy sources. In place of traditional air conditioning there is the Skuta glacier, the southernmost glacier in Europe, which provides pleasantly fresh mountain air to ease you off to sleep. To get rejuvenated and boost your immune system, we recommend going to the infrared or Finnish-Bio sauna.

A PERFECT TASTE OF NATURE Unspoilt nature is the very best pantry for those chefs who know how to draw inspiration from it. Vila Planinka’s chef swears by our ancestors’ culinary secrets, using organic, seasonal and locally-sourced ingredients to create the finest tasty treats that pamper the senses and the body.

Our in-house sommelier pairs each dish with one of the 125 premium Slovenian wines from our extensive collection, turning every meal into a one-of-a-kind experience that brings you in tune with nature.

The hotel is a mere 30-minute car ride from the Ljubljana Airport, Slovenia’s main airport. It is only 45 minutes away from the Slovenian capital Ljubljana, the hidden gem of Europe. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Postojna Cave Park POSTOJNA CAVE The largest cave in the karst region and most visited show cave in all of Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 24 kilometres of galleries have been found, of which 5km are open to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up much of a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way through the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by a dinky little narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. There are no stairs or difficult climbs along the path to or inside the cave, so visitors with limited mobility should not have any difficulties. Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalacites and stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The caves are also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphibian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part of Europe. This year has been even more special than usual, as one of the olms has laid a clutch of eggs, a rare event which happens just once a decade, so if you get lucky on your visit you may even catch a glimpse of some ‘baby dragons’, as they have been dubbed by the international press. Open December - February 10:00, 12:00, 15:00.

Postojna Cave has stalactites and stalagmites as far as the eye can see.

All aboard the Postojna Cave train!

Patriarch of Aquileia sometime during the 13th century and first mentioned in the historical record in the year 1274. Perched under a natural archway 123m up a sheer cliff face and surrounded by a thick stone wall, throughout the centuries the castle has gained a well-deserved reputation for being virtually impregnable. Nowadays the castle is open to the public and serves as a museum. It has been completely restored to its original grandeur, and among other sites visitors can see the residential quarters, the chapel and of course the dungeon. It is also possible to see the legendary cave below the castle, although some climbing and a minimal level of fitness, especially for scaling the narrow 37m Erazem’s Passage, is strongly encouraged if not required.QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.

Buses run from Ljubljana to Postojna every half hour from 05:30 until 23:00 (some of them stop in front of Postojna Cave).

For any more information regarding Postojna Cave Park, please use the following contacts; Jamska 30, Postojna, tel +386 (0)5 700 01 00, info@postojnska-jama.eu, www. postojnska-jama.eu.

See “baby dragons” in Postojna Cave acquarium.

PREDJAMA CASTLE Located some 10km north of Postojna is one of Europe’s finest castles. Predjama Castle (or Predjamski grad, Höhlenburg Lueg and Castel Lueghi in Slovene, German and Italian respectively), was built in a Gothic style by the www.facebook.com/LjubljanaInYourPocket

Predjama Castle is one of Slovenia’s most incredible sights. (all photos Postojnska jama d.d.)

December 2019 - February 2020

73

Kamnik A TOWN OF THREE CASTLES The first written sources about Kamnik go back to 1229. The two castles of Kamnik, Mali grad and Stari grad, were mentioned even earlier. A small hill above the town boasts the Grad Zaprice, which was once the seat of an important noble family. Today it houses the Kamnik Regional Museum.

Kamnik offers fun for the whole family this winter season

In a country that prides itself on charming villages, elegant squares and some of the most gorgeous towns in Europe, the word ‘beautiful’ can perhaps be overused to the point of redundancy. When talking about Kamnik however, a medieval town some 23 km northeast of Ljubljana, avoiding the word and its synonyms is nigh on impossible. Crammed in an area of varied topography with dense forest sitting next to sharp mountain peaks and wooded valleys, there is an undeniable grace to its medieval city centre. The history of the town is visible to all through its varied (and well-maintained) architecture, the affluence of its history sitting quietly next to more modern times. Kamnik is all red roofs and narrow twisting streets with the always-dramatic backdrop of jagged Alpine mountaintops looming nearby. Sitting next to the Bistrica river and with castle ruins and church steeples juxtaposed against the lush greenery of the surroundings. Kamnik actually has three castles; Mali grad, Stari grad and Grad Zaprice, which sits on a small hill overlooking the town and is now home to the Kamnik Regional Museum. Kamnik itself can be explored on foot in a number of hours, making it a great day trip away from Ljubljana. However, the surrounding area demands a longer stay, the many guesthouses and hotels in the town will provide more than ample comfort to do so. It is a great base for exploring the nearby Velika planina, as well as a an extended visit to Volčji Potok, Slovenia’s largest arboretum. If walking amongst masses of vibrantly coloured flowers isn’t quite relaxing enough then Snovik thermal spa centre will take care of the rest. Not only is the region’s water said to contain healing properties, it also makes great beer and Kamnik has established itself as the microbrewery capital.

TERME SNOVIK Located in a picturesque valley, Snovik is the highest sitting spa in the Heart of Slovenia. Could there be a better location for a wellness centre? In a word, no. A thermal oasis surrounded by greenery, attractive pools, saunas and great apartments compliment the many hiking and cycling trails through the valley and the mountains.

TASTE KAMNIK Part of the Taste Central Slovenia project, Taste Kamnik is hell-bent on bringing traditional Kamnik food back into the public mouth, as well as providing a modern day spin on a number of the dishes. Taste Kamnik is a continually evolving project, meaning the recipes will change and grow as the project moves further forward. It is a great way to get a feel for Kamnik through the centuries, experienced through your taste buds. Pick up a free recipe book from the Tourist Information Centre and learn more about the foods involved and their origins.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE KAMNIK Perfectly located in the centre of town this is a great place for tourists to start their day. You’ll find friendly staff who will be able to give you plenty of information, recommendations and advice on places of interest and must see attractions in and around Kamnik. If you want to learn more about the town you can join a guided walking tour.

Tour guides are available every Friday in summer at 10.00 am from the Tourist Information Centre. The shop has a good selection of gifts and souvenirs from local producers so you can pick up something truly unique from your trip. QGlavni Trg 2, Kamnik, +386 1 831 82 50, www. visitkamnik.com, tic@visitkamnik.com. Open 09:0016:00, Sat-Sun and holidays till 17:00.

TOP ATTRACTIONS IN KAMNIK VELIKA PLANINA With over 100 shepherds huts, Velika planina is home to the highest alpine pasture in Slovenia. It also happens to be one of the oldest shepherd settlements in Europe, with well maintained hiking trails throughout. The scenic cable car ride up gives great views over the Kamniška-Bistrica valley.

VOLČJI POTOK ARBORETUM Whatever your stance on flowers, Volčji Potok Arboretum provides the regions most colourful sights as two million tulips blossom in the spring.

74 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Terme Snovik

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Directory EMBASSIES & CONSULATES AUSTRALIA QK/L-3, Železna 14, tel. +386 (0)1 234 8675, fax +386 (0)1 234 8676, austral.cons.sloven@siol.net. Open Mon, Thu 09:00-12:00, Wed 14:00-17:00, Closed Tue, Fri, Sat, Sun. AUSTRIA QB-3, Prešernova 23, tel. +386 (0)1479 07 00, fax +386 (0)1252 17 17, laibach-ob@bmeia.gv.at, www.bmeia. gv.at/laibach. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 8:30 - 12:00, Fri 8:30 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA QK-2, Kolarjeva 26, tel. +386 (0)1234 32 50, fax +386 (0)1234 32 61, ambihlju@siol.net CANADA QL-3, Linhartova cesta 49A, tel. +386 (0)1252 44 44, fax +386 (0)1252 33 33, canada.consul.ljubljana@siol.net.

Open 08:00-12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. CHINA QL-3, Koblarjeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1420 28 55, fax +386 (0)1282 21 99, kitajsko.veleposlanistvo@siol.net. Open 08:00 - 11:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. CROATIA Q L-4, Gruberjevo Nabrežje 6, tel. +386 (0)1425 62 20, fax +386 (0)1425 81 06, vrhslo@mvep.hr, www.si.mvp. hr. Open 09:00-13:00, Closed Sat, Sun. FINLAND (CONSULATE) QDunajska cesta 156, tel. +386 (0)4 511 33 00, Finnish. consulate@ebsgroup.s FRANCE QC-5, Barjanska 1, tel. +386 (0)1479 04 00, fax +386 (0)1425 04 10, contact@ambafrance-si.org, www. ambafrance-si.org. Open 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

DIPLOMATIC CORPORATE SERVICES DIPLOMATIC CORPORATE SERVICES SLOVENIA Operated by Stoja Real Estate, as the name suggests Diplomatic Corporate Services is a web portal and associated service agency that aims to provide foreigners (primarily from the diplomatic and business community) living and travelling in Ljubljana and elsewhere in Slovenia with all the relevant information they could possibly need - from hotel and restaurant recommendations to real estate services and medical care. Their dedicated multilingual team is only a phone call or email away, while their website also provides a wealth of information.

QDolenjska 244c, tel. +386 (0)1 2800 860, info@ dcs.si, www.dcs.si. www.dcs.si.

76 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

STOJA REAL ESTATE AGENCY The most popular real estate agency in Ljubljana for foreigners, diplomats and local buisness people, Stoja has been operating in Slovenia since 1996, and specialises in both residential and commercial rental properties in the Slovene capital. They have a huge selection of houses, apartments and business premises, and will happily assist customers with all aspects of the rental process, as well as buying and selling property around the country.QDolenjska 242c, tel. +386 (0)1 28 00 860/+386 (0)41 652 141, fax +386 (0) 1 28 00 861, info@stoja-trade.si, www.rent-a-realestate.com.

GERMANY QB-3, Prešernova 27, tel. +386 (0)1 479 03 00, fax +386 (0)1 425 08 99, germanembassy-slovenia@siol. net, www.laibach.diplo.de. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, Fri 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ITALY QB-4, Snežniška 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 21 94, fax +386 (0)1 425 33 02, archivio.lubiana@esteri.it. Open 09:00 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. RUSSIA QA-2, Tomšičeva 9, tel. +386 (0)1425 68 75, fax +386 (0)1425 68 78, ambrus.slo@siol.net, www.veleposlanistvorusije. mid.ru/. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SERBIA QC-2, Slomškova 1, tel. +386 (0)1438 01 10, fax +386 (0)1434 26 88, amba.srbije.lju@siol.net, www.ambasadasrbije.si. Open 09:00-13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SPAIN QTrnovski pristan 24, tel.+386(0)1 420 23 30, fax. +386(0)1 420 23 33, emba.espa.eslovenia@siol.net UK QB-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. +386 (0)1 200 39 10, fax +386 (0)1 425 01 74, info@british-embassy.si, ukinslovenia.fco. gov.uk. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

TAX REFUND LJUBLJANČEK - AIRPORT If you need some last minute souvenirs at the airport, there are plenty to choose from at Ljubljanček. This is also the place to get your Global Blue Tax refund for any shopping you’ve done during your stay that qualifies.

QZgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)59 04 67 87, www. ljubljana-souvenirs.com. Open 08:00-16:00. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

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LJUBLJANA POSTOJNA

Postojnska jama Jamska c. 30, Postojna

www.postojnska-jama.eu

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