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september + ocotober 2024

September + October 2024 | Intown | 1

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intown

/ September + October 2024

Send comments, thoughts or ideas to intownmagazine@gmail.com Intown is Mailed USPS Exclusively to: Afton Oaks, Briargrove, Oak Estates, River Oaks Royden Oaks, Tanglewood, West University

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ON THE COVER Brian Orapko giving back

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houstonintown.com

6

PUBLISHER’S LETTER

8

ARTS & EVENTS

10-12

NEW ARTS SEASON

14-16

REBUILDING AFTER THE STORM

20

BRIAN ORAKPO LEGACY

22-25

FOOD: STATE OF GRACE

26-28

29-30

CARBONARA DESERVES RESPECT THE BUZZ

PRODUCTION PUBLISHER

M. A. Haines EDITOR

houstonintown.com

Lisa June

CONTRIBUTORS

Lindsay Mowad William Hanover Marene Gustin Evans Attwell Philip Berquist Minnie Payne Virginia Billeaud Anderson

Web Design CSS Art & Design Layout & Graphic Design CSS Art & Design Graphic Designer Cris Bell

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Photographer Wells Brown

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Copyright 2022 by Intown magazine. All rights reserved. Content may not be reprinted or reproduced without permission from Intown magazine.

4 |Intown | September + October 2024

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Publisher’s Letter

t’s been over two decades since I enjoyed the Dome foam in Lefty’s pub located behind a chain link fence. Those were the days. Beer was cheap and homeruns were scarce in the friendly confines of the Houston Astrodome. Despite Houston not always being about keeping and cherishing its heritage the Dome still stands lonely. In the case of our most iconic building, there is still an uncertainty and affection among Houstonians and its leaders that has caused a gridlock and millions of taxpayer dollars.

Upon its completion in 1965, the Astrodome was declared the “Eighth Wonder of the World.” Today, it is an albatross as the cost of maintaining it strains the budget, yet repurposing efforts have fallen short. It’s like an old Christmas sweater; we can’t quite part ways but won’t toss it away.

Houstonians have as many different opinions on what to do with the Dome as they do on abortion. It has been hard to come to a consensus. Meanwhile, tax dollars continue to foot the bill for the upkeep, and new efforts are being welcomed to change the Astrodome’s dormant status.

The Astrodome Conservancy recently added a popular long-time Houston community service and advocate, Shawn Stephens, for more input and direction repurposing the Dome.

“ The silhouette of the dome is what immediately comes to the minds of people all over the world when they think of Houston.

I am disappointed to see that it is being neglected. It serves as a magnet for activity, innovation, and economic vitality. As the Dome’s first iteration showed, Harris County has imagination and creativity. Let’s harness those abilities and show leadership by repurposing this iconic structure to draw people back to the Dome on a 24/7 basis.”

– Shawn Stephens New Astrodome Conservancy Board member 6 |Intown | September + October 2024

The Dome was created by then Astros co-owner Roy Hofheinz, who had previously been a state representative, the Harris County Judge, and a Houston Mayor. In addition to its cosmic size, the Astrodome, was the first of its kind as an indoor air conditioned arena that would house the Astros, The Houston Oilers football team, and the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo. It was the site of many historical events, including “The Battle of the Sexes” with Billie Jean King whipping an older washed-out pro-Bobby Riggs. Elvis played there, Muhammad Ali fought there, and where the Game of the Century NCAA Basketball between the University of Houston and UCLA was held.

Numerous proposals have fizzled out and it’s not going to get any cheaper to maintain or redo the facility.

It’s time for Houston’s creative and willing participants to propose a plausible projection for the Astrodome’s future.

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Arts +

EVENTS

Artupdate houston published every two weeks by houstonintown. For updates and more go to houstonintown.com and sign up for free updates.

UPTOWN PARK FARMERS MARKET 1st & 3rd Sundays

MUSEUMS Asia Society Texas Center

Artists on Site Series 5

Ongoing through Sep 22

11am - 3pm

Museum Of Fine Arts, Houston

Uptown Park Blvd

Yayoi Kusama “Aftermath of Obliteration of Eternity

URBAN HARVEST FARMERS MARKET Saturdays

Ongoing

Jacolby Satterwhite; A Metta Prayer Ongoing through Oct 13

8am - noon

Raqib Shaw: Ballads of East and West

2752 Buffalo Speedway

Menil: Ronny Quevedo

Ongoing through Sep 2

Thomas Demand: The Stutter of History

Menil: Fragments of Memory

Ongoing Through Sep 15

Meiji Modern

Baseball

Ongoing through Sep 15

Houston Astros Minute Maid Park

Contemporary Arts Museum Houston

Sep 1 6-8 10-12 19-22 23-25

Olivia Erlanger: If Today Were Tomorrow Ongoing through Oct 27

Amoako Boafo: Soul of Black Folks Holocaust Museum Houston

Facing Survival l David Kassan

Ongoing through Jan 5, 2025

Menil

Foyer installation: On Kawara

Ongoing through Sep 15

Longing Grief and Spirituality: Art Since 1980 Ongoing through Fall 2024

Portraits of Women from the Collection Ongoing through Nov 10

Wall Drawing Series: Ronny Quevedo

Opens Sep 13 through Aug ‘25

SPORTS

Kansas City Arizona Oakland LA Angels Seattle

Fragments of Memory

Sharks! The Meg, The Monsters, The Myths

Houston Dynamo Shell Energy Field

Houston Museum Of Natural Science

MUSIC & DANCE

Sep 7 14 18

LA Football Club Real Salt Lake Vancouver

Noises Off

Oct 2

New England

The Janeiad

Houston Texans NRG Stadium

Opens Sep 20 thru Jan 26 ‘25

Permanent Matter and Motion Everyday Faberge The World Around Us Special Exhibitions Death By Natural Causes

Ongoing

For updates go to www.houstonintown.com THEATER ALLEY Theatre Sep 27 through Oct 27 Oct 11 through Nov 3

Broadway Across America Hobby Center

Peter Pan

Oct 1 - 6

Theatre Under The Stars

Dear Evan Hsnsen Sep 10 -22

Little Shop Of Horrors

Oct 22 through Nov 3

Theatre Under the Stars

8 |Intown | September + October 2024

Sep 15 29

Chicago Jacksonville

Oct 6 27

Buffalo Indianapolis

Mr. Brahms September + October 2024 | Intown | 9

Intown’s Classical Music Editor and Critic,

the Hon. Philip Berquist,

Honorary Consul for the Republic of Croatia for Texas

A

new arts season in Houston is upon us so it is time to discuss what our three major institutions will be offering in the first part of the 2024-2025 season. I am writing this from beautiful Petoskey, Michigan, near the tip of the lower peninsula. It is 8:45am and the temperature is 55F. Sorry, I just had to mention that!

For this article, I drew lots to determine the order of presentation and the results were Houston Symphony, Houston Grand Opera and the Houston Ballet. I know, that was the order last year but lots will be lots.

Let’s begin.

Houston Symphony Orchestra

The 2024-2025 season begins in October. It will feature the “Czech Rhapsody” by Martinů and Dvořák’s “From the New World” Symphony, Symphony 9. HSO Music Director Juraj Valčuha conducts.

October 4, 5 at 7:30pm and Sunday the 6th at 2:00pm.

The Czech theme continues the next weekend with three interesting works.

The “Military Sinfonietta” by Kapráová, Dvořák’s Violin Concerto and, in my opinion, one of the highlights of the entire season, Janáček’s masterpiece, “Sinfonietta.” James Ehnes is the violin soloist, and Valčuha conducts.

NOTE - two performances only, Saturday, October 12 at 7:30pm and Sunday, the 13th, 2024, at 2:00pm with the Violin Concerto. On Thursday, October 10 at 7:30pm, Grammy-winning pianist Daniil Trafinov will perform Dvořák’s Piano Concerto. Trafinov is a major talent. Enough said.

November brings an entire month of concerts beginning with Wagner’s Tannhaűser Overture, selections from Humperdinck’s Hansel and Gretel and Richard Strauss’s, Don Quixote. Soloists

10 |Intown | September + October 2024

The Little Mermaid

are Joan DerHovsepian, viola, HSO’s newly appointed principal viola and HSO’s principal cellist, Brinton Averil Smith. Conducting is the wonderful, Sir Donald Runnicles.

Performances are November 1 and 2 at 7:30pm, and Sunday the 3rd, 2024, at 2:00pm.

There will be a unique one-time performance of the Beethoven 9th Sympho-

Pianist Daniil Trifonov

ny on Thursday, November 14, 2024, at 7:30pm conducted by the esteemed Michael Tillson-Thomas along with the Houston Symphony Chorus.

In late November, there will be two performances of pieces by Bach, Mozart and Brahms. Featured will be the Violin Concerto No 1 by JS Bach, performed

by Yoonsun Song, Mozart’s Serenade No.12, and Brahms’ Serenade No. 1.

Ms Song will be leading members of the Houston Symphony for these chamber concerts. Two performances only, November 23 at 7:30pm and Sunday the 24th, 2024, at 2:00pm.

November closes out with a remarkable program, the Schubert “Unfinished” Symphony 8, Alban Berg’s “Three Pieces for Orchestra,” and Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No. 5, the “Emperor” with favorite Yefim Bronfman, pianist.

Valčuha conducts. November 29, 30 at 7:30 pm and Sunday, December 1, 2024, at 2:00pm.

September + October 2024 | Intown | 11

at 7:30pm and Sunday, November 3 at 2:00pm.

Patrick Summers conducts.

The second opera of the fall rep is Cinderella (La Cenerentola) by Rossini. I doubt that there is much need to explain this famous story about the overworked young woman with cruel family members . It premiered in 1817 in Rome. Lighthearted and fun.

Lorenzo Passerini conducts.

Friday, October 25 at 7:30pm, Sunday the 27th at 2:00pm, Friday, November 1 at 7:30pm, Thursday the 7th at 7:30pm and two performances on Saturday the 9th, at 2:00pm and 7:30pm.

All performances at the Wortham Theater Center, Brown Auditorium

Michael Tilson Thomas

“A Viennese Waltz Christmas” concert of multiple pieces will be featured twice, December 7 at 7:30pm and Sunday, the 8th, 2024, at 2:00pm.

Music Director Valčuha conducts.

On Monday, December 9, at 7:30pm there will be a single performance by legendary cellist, Yo Yo Ma, who will perform Dvořák’s Cello Concerto. Also featured will be Johann Strauss’ “Die Fledermaus Overture.” I personally have great memories of Ma performing the Dvořák with the HSO many, many years ago in the ‘70’s as a true wunderkind. After intermission he would quietly take a chair in the back of the cello section to perform the symphony that followed. Juraj Valčuha will conduct this very special evening.

Closing out the calendar will be three performances of Handel’s “Messiah” conducted by Jonathan Cohen and featuring the Houston Symphony Orchestra Chorus.

December 20 and 21 at 7:30pm, and Sunday the 22nd at 2:00pm.

All performances at Jones Hall.

This work premiered in 1853 and takes place in the 15th century in Spain. It is a story that brings out the best characteristics of opera, love, suspense, hatred, revenge and murder. After its premier Verdi stated, “People say that it is too sad, that there are too many deaths in it. But death is all that there is in life…”

“Il travatore” is part of what has been called the “popular trio” of Verdi. As mentioned above it was first performed in 1853, the same year as “La Traviata” and two years earlier was “Rigoletto.”

Friday, October 18, 2024 at 7:00pm, Sunday the 20th at 2:00pm, Saturday the 26th at 7:30pm, Tuesday the 29th

Houston Grand Opera

HGO’s 2024-2025 season begins with its fall repertoire with the immensely popular Il travatore by Verdi.

12 |Intown | September + October 2024

Patrick Summers

Houston Ballet

There are two sets of ballets this fall.

The first is The Little Mermaid. This is the Houston premiere of John Neumeier’s realization of Hans Christian Andersen’s fairytale of the Danish legendary Little Mermaid. Music by Lera Aurabach.

Grand Opening Night - November 6, 7:00pm, the 7th, 12th and 14th at 7:30pm with a matinee on the 14th at 1:39pm and the i8th and 15th at 2:00pm.

Then comes a triple bill of Velocity choreographed by Stanton Welch with music by Michael Torke, Come In by Aszure Burton to music of Vladimir Martynov, and an unnamed World Premier by Silas Farley with music by Kyle Werner.

September 19, 21, 27 and 28 at 7:30pm, and the 22nd and 29th at 2:00pm.

Of course, let’s not forget the perennial The Nutcracker by Tchaikovsky with multiple performances running from November 29 to December 29, 2024.

All performances at the Wortham Theater Center.

That’s it for now. Let me hear from you at classicalmusicberquist@gmail.com.

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September + October 2024 | Intown | 13

Rebuilding after the

Storm

L

By Cristobal M. Galindo, Founder of Cristobal Galindo, PC

ife can throw us challenges at any moment. We, here in Texas, have learned that lesson all too well in recent months. From the siding on your home to the roof over your head, Houstonians are scrambling to find the financial means to make themselves whole again. Homeowner’s insurance should provide peace of mind, but unfortunately, that is not always the case. We have recently heard from many in the community wrestling with their insurance companies. It can be exhausting, and having experience on your side is essential.

Many insurance companies will try and underpay your claim. Most people do not realize that denying, underpaying, or delaying your claim is a tactic insurance companies use often, leaving home and business owners frustrated and desperate for someone who will fight for them.

Remember, insurance companies are businesses, and like any business, they try to limit how much they pay out on insurance claims. Although major insurance companies are multi-billion-dollar companies, they sometimes make ev14 |Intown | September + October 2024

ery attempt to hold on to that money as much as possible. However, residents and business owners have the right to question and fight back against the insurance company. Hiring an experienced attorney might be the best move.

When to Get an Attorney Involved: Insurance Company Offers Lowball Settlement

Some insurance companies will offer a lower settlement than what your claim is worth. If you believe you are entitled to more than what is being offered, you

do not have to accept the settlement. It will be important to analyze the reasons why they are making this offer. In some cases, denial of certain portions of the claim could be valid if the policy does not cover that specific damage. If the company intentionally denies portions of your claim, this is a perfect opportunity to get an attorney on your side. At Galindo Law, we send our estimator to your property to dive deeper into your home or business. We do not leave any stone unturned to help get every penny you deserve from your insurance company. Oftentimes, our estimator uncovers more damage than what the insurance adjuster noted. These findings can have a big financial impact on your claim.

Delaying decisions or denying claims

Insurance companies have an obligation to perform their investigations and make decisions on the outcome of your claim in a timely manner. Living without a sturdy roof overhead is emo-

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tionally, mentally, and financially taxing.

Delaying your claim, whether by poor communication or lengthy investigations, works in favor of the insurance company. As time passes and the need for financial help increases, some companies will rely on this desperation and offer a lower settlement than what is deserved. They could be preying on insecurity. However, insurance companies cannot legally put their profits over contractual legal obligations to their clients.

Unreasonable Requests to Validate Your Claim

There are also instances when insurance companies request so much information from the policyholder that it is impossible to fulfill their requests. While it is not uncommon for an insurance company to ask for certain amounts of documentation and records, their requests cannot be unreasonable or impossible to carry out.

There are options if the insurance company is not holding up its end of

16 |Intown | September + October 2024

the deal. First, remember not to let your emotions overtake you. When negotiating with the company, anything you say can be used against you down the line.

It is best to contact an experienced attorney who can take a hard look at the policy and has utilized years of experience to take on larger insurance companies.

Taking on an insurance company can be an uphill battle. An experienced attorney can help you navigate the dicey waters that undoubtedly lie ahead.

We have 20 years of experience assisting homeowners to rebuild after a storm

devastates their area. We understand what it feels like when a storm ruins a portion of your property. While homeowners always wish and hope the insurance claims process is easy, that’s not the outcome for many Houstonians who are left to pick up the pieces on their own unfairly. We can ensure you are better prepared and equipped to handle these big insurance companies. We can better prepare and equip you to handle these big insurance companies.

Cristobal M. Galindo was born in Torrejon de Ardoz, Spain and raised in Houston, Texas. He is the founder of Cristobal Galindo, PC, with a corporate office in Houston. The firm has expanded to other practice locations in Nederland, TX, Maui and New Orleans. They have an A + rating with the Better Business Bureau.

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A true masterpiece situated on almost a quarter acre completed in 2022. Open floor plan 5 Bedroom/4 Bath home fulfills every buyer's desire. The 2-car garage features 12-foot ceilings, making adding a car lift an easy option. The grand foyer showcases soaring ceilings and exquisite lighting.

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This 5-bedroom custom residence, designed by award-winning firm, The Bell Design Group, in collaboration with boutique architect Weidner Hasou, features soaring ceilings and walls of windows. Tucked in an idyllic location on a sprawling 25,000+ SqFt lot at the end of a private wooded street, the surrounding area is characterized by its tranquil ambiance.

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September + October 2024 | Intown | 19

Orakpo with his family

Brian Orakpo legacy celebrated

L

amar High School’s Class of 2004 alumni and football star, Brian Orakpo, returned on Saturday, August 10, 2024, to tour the weight room made possible by his funding. Lamar and the Lamar Alumni Association celebrated his outstanding accomplishments and the inspiration he brings to our community.

While at Lamar, Orakpo was a twotime first team all-district defensive end, two-time all greater Houston selection, and had 27 sacks. During his college years at The University of Texas, he was

a standout defensive player and won prestigious awards. These included the Bronko Nagurski Trophy, Lombardi Award, Ted Hendricks Award, and Bill Willis Trophy. A unanimous first-team all-American, he was also the Big 12 Defensive player of the year in 2008.

Known for his strength, he was ESPN’s Top Workout Warrior. Orakpo played 47 college games, recording 132 tackles, 22 sacks, and was instrumental in the team’s 2005 National Championship win. In the 2009 NFL draft, Orakpo was selected 13th overall by the Washington Redskins. This was the beginning of his distinguished linebacker 10year NFL career. Orakpo also played for the Tennessee Titans. His NFL career

Orakpo with LHS Principal Rita Graves

Orakpo with Lamar High School football players

20 |Intown | September + October 2024

earned him four Pro Bowl selections and he posted 423 tackles and 66 sacks. Orakpo is a newly inductee into the HISD Athletic Hall of Honor.

About Lamar High School Alumni Association: One of very few such high school associations in Texas and nationwide, Lamar High School Alumni Association (LHSAA), was established as a 501(c)3 in 1998 to serve the needs of Lamar’s present-day students. Thanks to the generosity of Lamar alumni, LHSAA is bridging the funding gap and helping to shape the school’s educational landscape. LHSAA supports the school by investing in student success, sustaining educational excellence, enhancing campus facilities, and fueling scholarships for future leaders. lamarhsalumni.com

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FOOD

Condiments and Change

State of Grace’s Bobby Matos Explains

C

hef Bobby Matos, culinary director at the River Oaks State of Grace, leaves most of the cooking at home to his wife.

“She goes to the farmers market once a week,” he says. “We like simple, farm fresh stuff. We like to keep it light and bright, and healthy.”

One thing they are big on is condiments. Matos says she has different hot sauces for different dishes, and you will always find these five things in their refrigerator: butter, lemons, capers, sriracha, and ranch. Unfortunately, he’s had to replace all those items completely twice; one after the derecho and then after losing power again during Hurricane Beryl.

But don’t think he never cooks at home. Weekends you just might find him firing up the Big Green Egg — a top-of-the-line kamado-style ceramic charcoal barbecue grill and smoker — and throwing some steaks on. Prime, of course, he’s a bit of a steak snob.

“My wife says I could do it as well in 22 |Intown | September + October 2024

the kitchen, but it’s more like how we do it in a restaurant on the Egg.” But he’ll get plenty of great steak pretty soon as State of Grace is undergoing some big changes. The River Oaks restaurant will be closed at the beginning of September and reopen on the 9th with a new menu and décor.

by Marene Gustin

“It’s been nine years,” says Matos.

“It was time for a refresh. To put a little makeup on her.”

The modern country style, complete with antler accents, will be replaced with rich tones of green and grayish hues complemented by touches of brass, chandeliers and candles throughout, and limewashed brick above vintage leather banquettes. The walls will feature quirky art, whimsical florals, and ornate antiques instead of game skulls.

The inspiration is the golden age of dining, and the menu will reflect that as well.

“More and more, I have found that classic is what’s current,” says native Houstonian and chef/owner Ford Fry. “There is a genuine enjoyment to the menus, and service style, of yesteryear, both within the industry, and among guests. So why not celebrate that? In reimagining State of Grace, we’re channeling simplicity and service. When I think of my childhood and Texas, I think continental cuisine, wood-cooking and gulf

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seafood, and we hope to emulate that experience for both our everyday neighbors and first-time visitors alike. Warm, welcoming hospitality and a dependable favorite that keeps you guessing how it’s so good.”

Ford, VP of culinary Drew Belline, culinary director Matos, and executive chef John Quinn, have all worked to create a place where the servers know your drink and your steak temperature. And there will be steak. Lots of steak. Wood-fired steaks like the 42 oz. Bistecca alla Fiorentina and Le Entracôte with frites and sauce verde. There’s also a chopped steak that Matos compares to a cheeseburger without a bun.

They will still feature seafood, and the Oster Room will stay, but there will be some changes to the seafood tower and don’t look for the Asian and Tex-Mex menu influences. And don’t look for the hush puppies of blue crab and cane sugar syrup dusted with powdered sugar either, although there will be something called a blue crab beignet which sounds pretty similar. Other starters include a classic Caesar Salad, French onion soup, oysters, and deviled eggs.

State of Grace will feature more than 400 bottles of wine, classic cocktails, and local and imported beers. Hours remain the same and there will be a weekend brunch, but it doesn’t sound like the old El Felix enchiladas will fit the new vibe.

But change is good sometimes and the winds of time — nine years in this case — sometimes need to blow in a new direction. We just hope not as strongly as a derecho.

State of Grace Reopens Sept. 9 stateofgracetx.com 3258 Westheimer Rd. | 832.942.5080

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24 |Intown | September + October 2024

More New and Notable

Kazzan Ramen & Bar in the Heights brings you volcano-style ramen served up in a 350-degree hot stone bowl. kazzanramenhtx.com 119 Heights Boulevard 832.925.7919

Pok Pok Po coming this fall to Midtown, is from the Kahani Social Group, the team behind the acclaimed Coming soon . . .

Woodlands hot spot Amrina. Pok Pok Buttermilk Baby, the latest from Po will feature fried chicken, sides and Berg Hospitality, set to open this month sauces. in the Heights will offer cool casual – a pokpokpo.com mash up of fine dining and fast casual.

3201 Louisiana Street, Suite 108 Burgers, biscuits, fried chicken, and soft Bol,m the same team, will be right serve from Carvel ice cream. next door to Pok Pok Po and offer thebuttermilkbaby.com counter service for fresh, healthy bowls 600 N Shepherd Dr Suite B-250 with an Indian twist. Keep an eye out 713.804.3317 for more information.

WE’RE HOUSTON’S BEST KEPT SECRET. Holey Moley, play mini golf and sing karaoke, while working up an appetite and a mighty thirst for some pizzas, “sandwedges,” or wings and fried pickles washed down with cocktails or mocktails. holeymoley.com 3839 Weslayan St. 346.971.5567

W

At there some C tod At Eugene’s, the Teas family has always believed that to have a great restaurant, there’s got to be something wonderful for everyone. That’s why our menu features some real family favorites, including Kyle’s famous Backyard Burger, Crab Madison, Calamari Dillon and Bailey’s Salmon Salad.

Make reservations today and you too will discover what everyone in Houston is talking about.

Berg Hospitality’s Benny Chows American-Cantonese eatery is now open for lunch and offers “Benny Boxes,” with a choice of seven mains, a drink, flower blossom egg drop soup, vegetable fried rice, Asian slaw with plum vinaigrette, a crispy spring roll with sweet chili dipping sauce, and a sticky coconut rice and mango dessert. bennychows.com 1818 Washington Ave. 346.888.1818

For

Op O Open Eugene’s Gulf Coast Cuisine 1985 Welch Street Houston,Texas 77019

For reservations go to: EugenesHouston.com/reservations or call 713.807.8883 Monday thru Friday: Lunch 11 to 2:30pm / Happy Hour 4 to 7pm / Dinner 5 to 10pm Open Saturday 11am to 10pm / Saturday Brunch 11 to 3pm / Saturday Happy Hour 2 to 5pm Open Sunday for Brunch, Lunch, and Dinner 11 to 9pm / Happy Hour 3 to 7pm Every Sunday and Monday, enjoy 50% off all bottled wine with any entrée

September + October 2024 | Intown | 25

Carbonara: Typical Flack

F

ood writers often apologize for discussing pasta carbonara.

It’s not that they malign carbonara and throw it out to the dogs, it’s that the relentless chatter about the “right” way to make carbonara and the endless noise about the origins of carbonara represent tired old tales. Their audiences tend to be familiar with such gastronomic tidbits as the word carbonara translates to “coal burner,” and the recipe’s black pepper symbolizes coal dust.

Well and good. Carbonara deserves respect.

The late chef Antonio Carluccio who is known as the godfather of Italian gastronomy demonstrated how to make spaghetti carbonara on video. His carbonara ingredients - fried guanciale (cured pork cheek,) raw eggs, Pecorino Romano, parmesan and ground black pepper - are carved in stone. It’s a sin to add cream. “Cream is absolutely forbidden.” The godfather fervently guards tradition. “This is the real carbonara.

The only one.”

Luciano Monosilio was nicknamed the King of Carbonara for the spaghetti carbonara he dishes out at Luciano Cucina Italiana in Rome. Monosilio demon-

Giacomo’s Carbonara with guanciale 26 |Intown | September + October 2024

By Virginia Billeaud Anderson

Giacomo’s Cibo e Vino Giacomosciboevino.com strates on video how to remove the skin from the guanciale before cutting it into small cubes, and how to whisk the egg yokes. Here again, the chef ’s self assurance sends a message. His way is the right way. You don’t mess with tradition.

Yet, other culinary notables make carbonara with pancetta, not guanciale, and some add cream. They too vigorously defend their practices.

The first time I ate carbonara was in Rome in 1986. I can’t remember if it had guanciale or pancetta, but I do remember a stupid woman throwing a fit because her steamed white asparagus

didn’t arrive fast enough. Since that introduction, I’ve eaten carbonara many times. Several weeks ago here in Houston I went into overdrive. I ate Spaghetti Alla Carbonara made with guanciale at Giacomo’s, and precisely six nights later I ate Spaghetti Carbonara made with pancetta at Magdalena’s. It’s not my usual practice to eat like a field hand but on both nights I let loose with pasta, bread and wine, all the while hearing Daddy’s admonition against shoveling it in when I was a kid in south Louisiana, “that’s gonna put a butt on you like an expensive mule.”

Lynette Hawkins at Giacomo’s on Westheimer

Magdalena’s Trattoria & Pizzeria magdalenasitalia.com Though worth a few extra pounds, the two carbonara meals didn’t taste the same. This wasn’t surprising. Guanciale and pancetta come from different parts of the pig. Guanciale from the pig’s cheek added heftier pork flavor and chewier texture to Giacomo’s carbonara.

Houston Chronicle’s Alison Cook who called Giacomo’s carbonara “traditional” in a review put it this way, “the pork jowl adds an earthy robustness you can’t get using regular old bacon or pancetta.” Beyond earthy robustness, Giacomo’s sauce had an indescribable silkiness presumably from the guanciale’s pan drippings. Pancetta from the pork belly on the other hand seemed milder. It retreated to give Magdalena’s carbonara exquisite balance of ingredients. The word precision comes to mind.

For years I imagined I was the only person who owned Sophia Loren’s cookbook “Sophia Loren’s Recipes and Memories,” until, that is, the ineffable Julia Reed wrote she was the only person who owned Sophia Loren’s cookbook. The Italian actress’s little-known cookbook combines favorite recipes with stories and photographs from her life and career. Loren suffered hunger in Pozzuoli, a small city near Naples, during World War II. Worst than hunger were the fighter planes and nearly daily explosions that rattled her grandmother’s kitchen.

Loren clung to Nonna Luisa’s skirt and they made the sign of the cross. There is a picture of Loren age nine wearing her first Communion dress, although the bomb that fell near the church “interrupted” the sacrament. The backdrop to this is worth noting. Allied Forces liberated Italy from Germany. They first bombed Sicily, then scrambled up the boot to crush German strongholds. Sick of Mussolini and of being in bed with Germany, and lacking economic and military resources, Italy changed sides. Not long after the Allies liberated Rome, Italians arrested and shot Il Duce and his mistress near the Swiss border, then hauled their bodies to Milan where crowds spat and peed on them before stringing them from rafters.

While Loren was making her Oscar winning movie “Two Wom-

Nicolas Nikic at Magdalena’s on Buffalo Speedway

Magdalena’s Carbonara Guanciale | Photo: The Spruce Eats by Maxwell Cozzi

September + October 2024 | Intown | 27

en” (1960) in a mountainous region in central Italy, charcoal workers shared with her the carbonara they cooked over an open fire. She included their recipe in her book. Its ingredients are pancetta, raw egg yolks, cream, butter, parsley and ground black pepper. Loren doesn’t buy the theory that carbonara was invented in 1944 after the Allies captured Rome and American soldiers handed over their bacon and egg rations to local cooks. It’s more likely GIs supplied ingredients for a dish that already existed, and had strong ties to Central Italy, such as the Lazio region where scruffy charcoal workers fed Loren while she made a movie about two Italian women being gang raped during WWII. Italy’s romance with pork actually dates to the ancient Etruscans who were raising pigs before Rome was founded. Which brings up a memory of the day Donnie and I were wine tasting in the Chianti between Siena and Florence and ate salami made from acorn-fattened Cinta

Casamonti’s Cinta Senese pigs eating acorns

Senese pigs, an ancient breed native to Tuscany that had been farmed by the Etruscans.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying the two Houston restaurants publish loud manifestos or preen self-satisfied on video that their way is the right way or the only way. They don’t. At least as far as I can see. In fact, Magdalena’s says practically nothing about its carbonara except to list “pancetta and pecorino” as ingredients on the menu. Giacomo’s goes a tiny step further. It informs customers its carbonara is “aggressively

porky & peppery, NO cream involved.”

Additionally, Giacomo’s says in a social media post its carbonara is the “authentic Roman version.” Use of the word authentic hints at fidelity to a canon, but that hardly equates to killing infidels to preserve tradition. Predictably, two Italian food heavyweights, Giacomo’s Lynette Hawkins who’s past triumph was La Mora Restaurant and Magdalena’s Nicolas Nikic formerly of Da Marco and Dolce Vita handle carbonara differently.

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September + October 2024 | Intown | 29

Michelle Vo

The Health Museum Launches Healing Arts Program with Caregivers Art Gallery Opening The Health Museum, located in the Houston Museum District, recently launched the Healing Arts Program with a private gallery opening for “Healing Hands: A Collection of Caregiver Expressions on Mental Wellness.”

The gallery collection is part of the Healing Arts Program vision to empower healthier living for all through a fusion of art and science.

The new Healing Arts program is designed to integrate the arts into health education and practice, catering to all age groups, including medical students, and includes: • Hearts of Hope: Intended to support those struggling with mental health challenges, guests are invited to share and read messages of hope through a network of encouragement and connection at the Museum.

• Healing Hands: A community art gallery of caregivers who use art to tell stories about caring for others and the pathways to healing from August 2024 through February 2025.

For full story go to https://www.intownmag.com/ healthmuseum.

Ashna Karpe Rebecca Molander and Dr. Alanna Bree

Faria Javed and Rose Tylinski

Rosalia & Danny Lopez

Carla Bisong and Crsytal Baptiste Paige Burgess and Becky Seabrook

Anson Koshy, Lori Raijman and Nader Adeeb

30 |Intown | September + October 2024

Music as Medicine

Anson Koshy, Katie Scott, Ashna Karpe, Rose Tylinski and Gabriela Magana

Becky Seabrook

John Arcidiacono

September + October 2024 | Intown | 31

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Visit us at 2604 Westheimer Rd or call (713) 388-1059.

32 |Intown | September + October 2024