Aosta Valley Uncovered by InTheSnow

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THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO

CERVINIA Champoluc CoUrmayeur Gressoney La Thuile + Pila

Edited by Patrick Thorne “One of twenty people to know in ski”

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WELCOME TO THE BEAUTIFUL

AOSTA VALLEY Snugly located up in Italy’s northwestern corner (that makes it the closest bit to Blighty), the Aosta Valley is actually Italy’s smallest region with a surface area of just over 3000km2, but for skiers and boarders it’s big, big, big, as most of that area is covered by ski runs and lifts – some 800km of runs to be precise.

It’s an area that offers a remarkable amount considering its compact dimensions. You can ski from Aosta Valley resorts over two borders into France or Switzerland, you can reach Europe’s highest lifts, and ski its biggest verticals and longest runs from here. The lifts are modern, the scenery spectacular, the locals friendly and the food great!

Although you may not have realised it, several of the world’s best-known resorts are within easy

reach of the Aosta Valley too.

You can ride Europe’s highest lifts at nearly 3900m, and ski or board one of the continent’s biggest ski areas from chic Cervinia. Moreover , there is direct access to the famous off-piste skiing of Chamonix on the other side of Mont Blanc from famous Courmayeur. For

border to France goes from La Thuile.

All these resorts and smaller villages are available on a single Aosta Valley lift pass, variants of which can include skiing over the borders to Chamonix and Switzerland too.

Another good reason to visit the region is the high value of holidays here; with prices typically lower overall compared with the big resorts of neighbouring France and Switzerland.

Everything from eating out to lift passes cost that bit less. But unlike a trip to Eastern Europe you are not sacrificing holiday quality for the lower prices – the ski areas are big, the lifts modern, and the scenery as spectacular as you’ll find anywhere.

Even those who can afford the

Heli-skiing is popular here, and more affordable than anywhere else in Europe or North America more rustic charm and smaller, pretty villages, but still another huge ski area, 17km across, then try the Monterosa area in Italy’s Three Valleys, where you can stay in Champoluc or Gressoney. For a direct gondola link to the market town of Aosta go for Pila. The lift-link over the

expensive activity of heli-skiing will be pleased by what Aosta Valley’s resorts can offer – heli-skiing is popular here, and more affordable than anywhere else in Europe or North America.

But despite all these world-class attractions, it can be the simple things that are the biggest attractions. The unspoilt nature of many of the Aosta Valley’s resorts mean that great food can be a simple pleasure here. The local people really are friendly too, who have lived here for generations, not just in resort for the season, never to return when it ends.

Access is another strong point, with Turin, Milan and Geneva airports all less than 90 minutes away, and rail links good too. The region comes in to its own in February for British skiers, as the school holiday crowds that descend on French resorts are not here, so prices remain reasonable and there aren’t the overcrowded slopes or restaurants.

REASONS TO SKI

AOSTA VALLEY 1. Affordable. Everything from pizza to heli-skiing 2. Big ski areas with high-quality, modern lifts 3. Easy to reach 4. Fantastic food 5. Friendly locals 6. Superb, stunning scenery 7. Rich heritage, including wellpreserved Roman remains 8. Empty slopes, especially outside peak periods 9. Designer Italian shopping & spa culture in top resorts 10. High altitude skiing, several areas with glaciers, lots of snowmaking back-up

If you have non-skiers in your party the Aosta Valley is a good choice too. As well as the designer shops of Cervinia and Courmayeur the region is famous for its Roman remains, some of the best outside of Rome itself, and in most cases equally accessible in winter.

Stay in Pila for direct gondola access to the market town of Aosta, with particularly good remains to visit.

Spa culture is yet another strength, the blissful Pré-Saint-Didier thermal baths near Courmayeur is a must (termedipre.it/en).

But wherever you go in the Aosta Valley you’ll be impressed by the spectacular scenery. Italy’s first national park was established here, and a third of the whole area remains protected parkland, with some of Europe’s highest mountains, and over a third of the terrain above 2600m.

Publisher

Dominic Killinger dom@InTheSnow.com Editor

PATRICK THORNE

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CERVINIA 2 hrs to Nearest Airport

Fly to Cervinia from: Gatwick, Stansted, Birmingham, Doncaster/Sheffield, Manchester, Bournemouth, Bristol, Newcastle, Glasgow

Cervinia is one of the world’s leading resorts; lift-linked to Zermatt across the Swiss border it has access to Europe’s highest lifts, skiing and boarding, summer and winter, and one of the world’s biggest ski areas with 350km of runs.

It’s also quite chic.

Italy pioneered purpose-built highaltitude resorts in the 1930s, and Cervinia, like Sestrière by the country’s French border, is one of Europe’s originals. The little settlement that existed there originally was known as ”Breuil”, but was changed to Cervinia, apparently because in those nationalistic times the former “sounded too French”. Now the two are officially hyphenated together, although most English speakers still tend to call the place Cervinia.

The title Cervinia also brings to mind Monte Cervino, again better known as the Matterhorn to English speakers,

which provides a spectacular backdrop to the resort, nestling on the border with Switzerland.

For decades there was no agreement with Zermatt on lift ticketing for the joint area, but old rivalries seem to have been forgotten in recent years with the introduction of a full international pass – no more messing about with supplements.

You will still be crossing the border though, so make sure you carry a passport. Switzerland is the only major country in the Alps not to sign up for membership to the European Community with its commitment to abolish borders between member states within Europe.

Cervinia today is, again like the other original Italian purposebuilt centres, a hotch-potch of architectural styles. What’s special about the place is that, although it catches the sun, its altitude ensures it maintains the best snow record in Italy. And these vast snowy slopes

below the towering peaks along the Swiss border are really joyful terrain for intermediates, with incredibly long trails falling away below you across the huge white landscape.

The area has been improved for going up as well as coming down in recent years, with an ongoing investment in new lifts, which has seen high-capacity chairlifts installed, and almost all drag lifts decommissioned as a result.

Apart from the epic 20km descent from the Klein Matterhorn, one of Europe’s highest lift-served points, down to Valtournenche, probably the longest on-piste in the world and over a vertical drop in excess of 2359m, there are many other long trails. One of the most popular is the 15km red back down from Plateau Rosà to the resort.

Cervinia is normally a good choice for beginners and near beginners as the wide open slopes above the resort, and on one side down from

Plan Maison are ideal (they’re served by cabin lifts, so there is no need to worry about getting pulled over by a drag lift, or falling off a chair when you try to stand up at the top).

Experts perhaps have the least to shout about, even with the long runs, but there are five shorter black runs – mostly just above the resort, and then the steep runs of Zermatt over the border. There is also a thriving heli-skiing business, taking skiers up to the 4500m high Monterosa for long powder runs down to Valtournenche or Champoluc. For cross-country skiers there are three high-altitude loops, one at resort level.

The wide slopes are good for free boarding, and large chunks of the terrain can be accessed by chairs and gondolas; but facilities for boarders are generally limited in comparison to other top European resorts. Unusually for a resort of this international standing there is no regular half-pipe (except the pipe on the glacier above

1. One of Italy’s top resorts.

2. One of the world’s most snowsure destinations.

3. For those who like to relax – new slow skiing zones.

4. Some of the longest runs over the biggest verticals in the world.

5. Ski into Switzerland beneath the Matterhorn.

Zermatt), but there is a snow park with plenty of healthy hits at Plan Maison, near the Fornet chairlift.

Cervinia has a reputation for lively après-ski, but this is based primarily on the weekend crowds from Turin and Milan packing out the bars, restaurants and nightclubs. That being said, you still have a choice of 50 or so establishments whenever you visit. Popular bars include the Copa Pan Irish bar, which serves Irish

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beer (a good thing?) and attracts large numbers from the British Isles.

For a bit of Italian sophistication sup on a cocktail at Lino’s ice rink bar, or relax at the Café des Guides. There’s a choice of two nightclubs to see you through into the small hours. Trips to the Casino in Saint Vincent are organised.

There are about 50 eateries in Cervinia, and in common with most Italian ski resorts they nearly all serve wonderful Italian food.

One of the most popular pizza stops is Cassecroute. However, it is possible to escape both the modern architecture and the Italian influence for a while should you wish to. For rustic ambience take an evening excursion up to the Baita Cretaz mountain hut. La Tana has a reputation with the carnivores, whilst gourmets may head for Le Nicchia or le Bistrot de l’Abbe.

Cervinia is one of the Italian resorts where it’s possible to buy some sharp fashions, but it should not

be thought of as a destination for those particularly seeking designer shopping opportunities – unless you’re planning to take your backpack and ski-shop over in Switzerland. In reality the 40 or so shops are primarily much the same as in other major resorts, albeit with better fashions in the two dozen ski sports shops, and a handful of additional jewellers. Prices are higher than the Italian norm, in reflection of the higher status (as well as altitude) of the resort.

Cervinia has a reasonable range of alternatives when you’re not skiing, boarding or enjoying the après scene. Snowsports alternatives include snowshoeing, snow biking, snowmobiling, snow kiting, telemarking, and air board or toboggan rental. Off the slopes the options are bowling, cinema, and ice skating on the natural rink, which normally stays frozen up to March, or paragliding above. You certainly won’t get bored in Cervinia!

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REASONS TO SKI

CHAMPOLUC 1 hr 45m to Nearest Airport

Fly to Champoluc from: Gatwick, Stansted, Birmingham, Doncaster/ Sheffield, Manchester, Bournemouth, Bristol, Newcastle, Glasgow

Champoluc lies at one end of the giant Monterosa ski area, also known as Italy’s Three Valleys, an impressive 17km in lifts and piste from the other end at cult skiing Mecca, Alagna. The ski region is one of the world’s largest and, thanks to recent investment in new lifts, you can now ski or board without needing to stop for 180km, on slopes that extend up to a snowsure 3275m, one of the highest points in the Alps and with spectacular views across the Aosta Valley and Piemonte.

The ski area was “reborn” for the 2003–04 season, when the spectacular Funifor cable car finally completed the long planned link in the circuit between the Valsesia and GressoneyLa-Trinité resorts (themselves connected to Champoluc).

Champoluc at 1570m is the main resort in the Val d’Ayas. Surrounded by pine woods, it offers spectacular views

1. Easy access to the vast Monter osa ski area, Italy’s Three Valleys.

2. Charming village with a great community feel.

3. A second ski area of its own at nearby Antagnod, away from the crowds.

4. Rich in tradition, evident in everything from restaurants to craft shops.

5. The liveliest night spots on the Monterosa circuit.

of the Monterosa glaciers, and the rocky buttresses of Mont Sarezza and the Testa Grigia.

The rustic resort follows a mountain road, with gondola access to the main Monterosa area at Frachey at one end, and a small separate ski area of its own at Antagnod a few kilometres

up the road above at 1710m (ideal for beginners and early intermediates). This hamlet also has spectacular views, with well-preserved old buildings, including the famous “Maison Fournier” once the stronghold of the counts of Challant.

The ski slopes are unusual here in that they mostly follow one after another, covering big distances between resorts, rather than the more usual model of dozens of routes down from one lift. So for most skiers and boarders the day begins with the gondola ride from Frachey, and from there it’s a case of deciding how far you wish to travel along the many long blues and reds.

You begin through splendid scenery onto the first stop at Gressoney in the central valley, and then your choice is whether to continue onto the famous freeride centre of Alagna. Beginners will find good nursery slopes served by carpet lifts at the top of the gondola.

There are many on- and off-piste itineraries in the area, including the most popular Mount Rose Grand

Tour, which begins at 8.30am with a rendezvous at the Monterosa ski offices in Champoluc. There’s a coach link to Frachey from where participants can ski to the Gressoney valley via Colle della Bettaforca (2701m), continuing onto the Passo dei Salati (2967m), and then descending along the Valsesia face of the slopes. An ascent to Punta Indren (3260m) follows, with an offpiste descent towards Gressoney. The tour ends back in Champoluc at 4pm.

Heli-skiing is another popular activity given the wide range of high peaks in the area – and the proximity to France where heli-skiing is banned. There’s a wide choice of descents available to suit almost all ability levels. You can also take a helicopter to the top of the Lys mountain pass for a descent along the Grenz glacier down to Zermatt.

Two- or three-day variants of the tour, staying overnight in Cervinia or Zermatt, are also available.

Monterosa is included on the Aosta

Valley pass, which covers 800km of terrain served by nearly 200 lifts in over a dozen ski areas, including Cervinia (linked to Zermatt), Pila, La Thuile and Courmayeur, which is linked to Chamonix – it’s just about physically possible to ski over if you set off on the early bus.

The freeriding terrain in the Monterosa region is a dream for boarders. The opportunity to open up 2000m of vertical above Alagna, by way of a couple of cable car rides up, and the wide open powder fields all the way down is a truly wonderful thing.

Those seeking a buzzing après-ski scene should look elsewhere, but there is fun to be had at several good spots in the area, and Champoluc has the best reputation for evening entertainment of all the villages in Monterosa. The Café Rimbaud in the village is one of the most popular haunts, and is famed for its great selection of cocktails as well as its tequila. Or enjoy a beer at the Latin-American bar above the Crest

Cabin. The Rifugio del Lys above the Gabiet cabin is also worth a visit.

The Golosone pub often has live music, the Bistro has a disco twice a week, and there is the Friday disco at the West Road Bar, which is out of the village towards Frachey. Wherever you go for a drink make sure you try the regional beverage called Fil de’Fer, which can only be described as a creamy mandarin orange punch with a hints of cloves, and is served hot.

For dining out La Grange is good for gourmet cuisine, and Kremer Thal in nearby Antagnod serves proper stone baked pizzas. The Ristorante “Le Solitaire” is the best “polenta concia” in Italy and has good prices. Other recommended eateries include Da Martino, Le Sapin and Le Petit Tournalin.

The restaurants in the Hotels Castor and Mount Cervino are also recommended.

There’s little else to do besides ski or board, eat, drink, and admire the scenery in Champoluc – it’s the simple things …. However, there is an

outdoor ice rink at nearby Bruson, and ice climbing and snowshoe walks are available in the area. There are rather limited shopping opportunities, but you will find craft and souvenir shops in the villages where local goods and creations may be purchased. The best known local product is a special wooden shoe – tzoque, more commonly called sabots.

But carvers also create statuettes of shepherds and animals.

Families should enjoy the genuine atmosphere of the Monterosa area too.

There are no non-ski nurseries unless you travel with a tour operator that provides one, such as Ski2 (www.ski-2. com), but a list of babysitters is available from the tourist office and activities are sometimes organised. There are also play parks in the villages, and some of the hotels do have children’s playrooms.

Special menus for kids are normally available in the restaurants. On the slopes Antagnod has a baby snow park especially for children, which includes an easy to ride carpet-conveyor-type lift.

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CourmayeUr 1 hr 45m to Nearest Airport

Fly to Courmayeur from: Gatwick, Stansted, Birmingham, Doncaster/ Sheffield, Manchester, Bournemouth, Bristol, Newcastle, Glasgow

The historic mountain town of Courmayeur is one of the world’s top ski resorts. It sits on the Italian side of Mont Blanc, western Europe’s highest mountain, which it shares with Chamonix over on the French side.

The scenery all around you here is spectacular, with fourteen 4000m-plus mountain peaks above.

Unlike Chamonix, Courmayeur is a very atmospheric resort where ancient buildings huddle around cobbled streets, so that the whole place oozes traditional charm. Planners have allowed a few ugly concrete blocks to appear (some of them four-star hotels!), but these are on the outskirts of the town and don’t detract from the ambience overall.

Courmayer can boast three centuries of tourism, far exceeding its long history as a winter sports destination, with visitors originally coming to experience the benefits of local mineral springs. The clientele has always

included the great and the good, including the Italian Queen Margaret of Savoy, who was such a valued customer that the owner of the Royal Hotel in the village built a special annex for her visit in 1880, named The Queen’s Pavillion.

The resort offers skiing for all standards, including famous runs such

although there are some testing offpiste descents from top to bottom, which may be undertaken with the assistance of a guide.

Serious skiers are likely to head for the more limited lift network of Mont Blanc that serves steeper, more spectacular trail and links over to Chamonix, which along with Argentière further up the Chamonix Valley is included on the Courmayeur lift pass.

Beginners have wide open slopes to gain confidence on, with tuition from the Mont Blanc Ski School, founded in 1936 and one of Italy’s oldest and most prestigious.

Intermediates are the most spoilt, having both the wide open spaces and testing routes above Courmayeur, and the ability to tackle the incredible runs that are unique to Mont Blanc.

There are several excellent skiing excursions on offer for skiers of

Ancient buildings huddle around cobbled streets, so that the whole place oozes traditional charm as the resort’s World Cup Downhill, and the International, a 6km run that drops 1000m as it descends. Many runs are covered by snowmaking, and the resort has a very good snow record.

There are two main ski areas. The largest, Chécrouit-Val Veny, directly above the resort, is largely suited to beginners and intermediates,

intermediate standard and up, aged 10 years or over, provided by the Alpine Guides Society of Courmayeur, established in 1850 as a free association of Alpine professionals.

The most famous run is the 20km descent of the Vallée Blanche down to Chamonix from Helbronner Point (3369m), reached in half an hour from La Palud cable car station. The descent takes around 4–5 hours allowing for breaks for food, drink and photographs.

Once in Chamonix participants traditionally enjoy a “gigantic beer”, before returning to Courmayeur by bus through the Mont Blanc Tunnel.

For more experienced skiers there is a 2000m vertical descent down to La Palud, beginning at Helbronner Point and continuing over the Toula Glacier, after which it is named. Other popular runs are the Col d’Arp, l’Arp Veille and the Couloir of Dolonne.

Finally, the guides offer heli-skiing excursions to the best runs around the Aosta Valley, which has some of the most extensive off-piste skiing in

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REASONS TO SKI

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CourmayeUr 1. Wonderful pedestrianised, medieval, atmospheric resort.

2. Access to the world’s longest liftserved run, the Vallée Blanche.

3. Fantastic shopping.

4. Close to the wonderful PréSaint-Didier spa complex.

5. Fabulous restaurants and food.

Europe. Finally, cross-country skiers are also spoilt for choice with up to 35km of trails to enjoy around this part of the Aosta Valley.

The resort’s main street is a joy for après-skiers with numerous bars and cafes dotted around the pedestrianised centre. After the lifts close the Roma is a popular meeting point, whilst many just like to parade around window shopping for a while before getting ready for dinner. The buzz increases dramatically when well-dressed weekenders arrive from Turin and Milan on Friday through to Sunday to fill the resort. There are many famous and popular bars

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including Bar Roma, American Bar, Caffé della Posta, Caffé del Centro, and the Cadran Solaire, as well as a couple of nightclubs. Other possibilities include a trip to the casino in St. Vincent.

The fifty or so restaurants in resort serve predominantly Italian fare, naturally enough. And why not, when it’s as good as the fresh homemade pasta at Gabriella’s? Pierre Alexis, a restaurant established in 1877, offers further pasta specialities and traditional Italian dishes. La Padella is another choice, serving 20 different types of pasta. For pizza lovers the Pizzeria du Tunnel has a reputation for high quality, low cost, big pizza. For nonItalian food the Du Parc restaurant offers Alpine treats such as raclettes and fondues.

Shopaholics will be delighted by the quantity and quality of shopping in Courmayeur. You can wander along quaint old pedestrianised cobbled streets, window shopping, and visit top-class boutiques – with names such as Cartier, Hermès and Timberland.

There are several shops selling the best in Italian foods, books and maps, and crafts created by local artisans. There is also a weekly market.

Besides snowsports, shopping, après-ski and dining, Courmayeur has an Alpine museum, ice rink and multisports centre. The latter is the Palasport with indoor tennis, squash, five-a-side football, volleyball, basketball, indoor golf, and an impressive indoor climbing wall.

Parascending and helicopter trips are also available.

For families the pedestrianised centre is a plus, and there are good nursery facilities, as well as family-friendly skiing on much of the local ski area. Children up to 1.2m in height ski free, after that it’s adult price. To obtain the discount bring along your passports at the time of booking. After skiing there are lots of family-friendly places to eat, with spaghetti or pizza normally a hit with the kids, and facilities like the ice rink are fun to enjoy together, almost as much as slope time.

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REASONS TO SKI

Gressoney

1 hr 45m to Nearest Airport

Fly to Gressoney from: Gatwick, Stansted, Birmingham, Doncaster/ Sheffield, Manchester, Bournemouth, Bristol, Newcastle, Glasgow

Gressoney should really be ‘Gressoneys’ as there are two neighbouring villages, a kilometre or so apart, Gressoney-La-Trinité and Gressoney-Saint-Jean. Both are well-positioned in the centre of Italy’s Three Valleys that make up the Monterosa ski area. Head one way and you find yourself high above legendary Alagna, in the other above rustic Champoluc.

The resort is situated at the foot of Monterosa itself, and is popular with both local and international tourists all-year-round, not just for winter sports. The architecture of both villages is best described as “rustic charm”, with chalet-style buildings in the ancient Walser style, offering spectacular views from their balconies to the towering peaks above.

There are advantages to both Gressoney villages, and they are wellconnected anyway, but La Trinité is the

one that is directly lift- and piste-linked to the giant Monterosa circuit. Saint Jean so far is not linked, but it does have the advantage of boasting its own small ski area with runs for all standards as a second choice. Here there are excellent slopes down through the old

Head by the Stafal gondola up in the Alagna direction, however, and you’ll have much steeper runs beneath your skis and boards, including many famous off-piste itineraries above Alagna, with verticals of more than 2000m possible from Punta Indren at 3275m.

Alagna is well worth skiing over to, if just to look around, but be warned that unless you are an expert skier you may wish to ride the cable car down to the village as the only piste is an infamous black. The village is known for its old world charm, and for having been “preserved from cement” with its Walser buildings dominant. It was founded in the 12th century, and is built around the local parish church. Although there’s skiing for all standards, Alagna remains a haven

Head one way and you find yourself high above legendary Alagna and in the other above rustic Champoluc...

Swiss pines of Weissmatten.

Heading up from Gressoney into the Monterosa circuit on either side of the valley, there are runs for all standards. If you go up by cable car and chairlift to Colle della Bettaforca on the Champoluc side, you’ll find mostly easy and intermediate standard terrain.

for expert skiers, the village sits beneath one of the world’s greatest lift-served verticals, skiable by many off-piste descents.

It’s also worth making a pilgrimage up to the Guglielmina refuge at 2880m on the Col d’Olen, between Gressoney and Alagna. It was built in the 19th century, and was a place where people stayed over night before they climbed the Monterosa’s 4000m peaks in the summer months. The legend says that Queen Margherita di Savoia came here with her female friends and her lover, a mountain guide from Gressoney, to climb the peaks and to have a nice time. If you book in for the night then nowadays you can sleep in her bed and dream of the past, and you can listen to a lot of enchanting fairy tales from the people of the valley.

Boarders will love the freeriding opportunities across Monterosa, and there’s also the region’s only boardercross course right above

1. Great location in the central valley in the huge Monterosa area.

2. The only boardercross course in Monterosa.

3. Direct lift access to the Punta Indren glacier at 3275m above.

4. Separate ski area at Weissmatten with great skiing through ancient woodland.

5. The famous Guglielmina refuge at 2880m above.

Gressoney. Telemarking is also popular in the area and there’s a special club for telemarkers. Crosscountry skiers have valley and altitude routes (e.g. Pianalunga at 2025m high) in the area.

Off the slopes Gressoney is quite quiet with a handful of bars, one of the liveliest usually to be found at the Nordend hotel near the base of the

Stafal gondola. The Petit in La Trinité is good, the “negrone” cocktail is a house special. The bar in the Jolanda Sport serves a mean Bombardino. The bars take it in turns to close for 1 night a week, so don’t expect to go to the same place every night.

Il Principe is a good place to eat in Gressoney-Saint-Jean, it has a great wine cellar (try some Barbera d’Asti or Barbaresco), and magnificent food such as cheese fondue, and local specialities such as cervo (venison), or pasta with a hare sauce (“sugo di lepre”) if it is on the menu. The food at the Hotel Residence at GressoneyLa-Trinité and the restaurant at the Jolanda Sport are also good. In Saint Jean, The Pizzeria Principe has the reputation for making the best pizza in the Valley and has a listing in the Italian Good Food Guide. If you do intend to eat out then make a reservation as not all restaurants will be able to fit you in otherwise.

Although there’s not a huge

choice of activities beyond skiing, Gressoney is the best equipped of Monterosa’s resorts, and there’s enough to keep you busy in your spare time if you are spending full days on the piste.

Gressoney-La-Trinité offers climbing, and there’s a museum, swimming pool, sports centre and weekly market in Gressoney-SaintJean. There is also a good spa in the Hotel Jolanda Sport (www. hoteljolandasport.com).

Besides the market, shoppers (especially with their own transport!) might look out for furniture, the manufacture of which the Gressoney valley is famous, as well as the creation of the local traditional dress.

The really ancient art of “puncetto” – a kind of handmade lace featuring a thousand knots in a square centimetre of material – is also practised here.

The art has Saracen origins and was introduced to the valley by those locals who took part in the crusades.

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REASONS TO SKI

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LA THUILE 1. Ski into France past Napoleonic fortification to La Rosière.

2 hrs 15m to Nearest Airport

Fly to La Thuile from: Gatwick, Stansted, Birmingham, Doncaster/ Sheffield, Manchester, Bournemouth, Bristol, Newcastle, Glasgow

La Thuile is one of the most popular Italian destinations for British skiers offered in the brochures of all of the top tour operators. It’s not difficult to see why. Friendly and affordable like all Aosta Valley resorts, La Thuile has free childcare, and also has the unique attraction in the Valley of being one of less than a dozen in the world where you can ski across an international border. In La Thuile’s case, the connection of its huge ski area is to La Rosière in France.

Between them the terrain stretches to 150km and is served by 35 lifts, almost half of them chairs.

Staying in La Thuile you have a choice of old or new. There’s the traditional ski village with a dozen small family hotels, which has grown out of four old mining villages now merged into one. Then there’s the modern slopeside Planibel centre, home to a four-star hotel and apartments complex, as well

2. Great slopeside accommodation complex with excellent facilities.

3. Free childcare.

4. Great views of Mont Blanc.

5. Affordable heli-skiing or steep runs on the piste, pitching at up to 72%.

as on-site leisure and après-ski facilities, including gym, swimming pool and nightclub. It’s right next to the gondola car or quad chair, which takes you straight up to 2200m, as well as the nursery slopes – in a word ”convenient”.

But wherever you stay in La Thuile, you can enjoy the spectacular views that take in the Matterhorn, Monterosa and Mont Blanc.

Out on the slopes La Thuile has excellent skiing for all ability levels with north-facing slopes, which along with

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its proximity to Mont Blanc, normally ensures good snow conditions. There’s a range of passes to suit all needs, and a variety of terrain that caters for everyone from beginner to expert.

For beginners, there are two gentle nursery slopes right next to the Planibel complex at the base of the resort, these have their own drag lifts and are separate from the main ski area. Intermediates will enjoy the terrain the most, accessing the slopes via the modern eight-seater gondola, with an hourly capacity of 3000 people, and then returning at the end of the day on the 6km-long red back down from the Fourclaz chair, in the interim covering seemingly endless blues and reds that radiate out to the peaks of Le Belvedere and Chaz Dura. From there you have a variety of routes over to La Rosière, which sometimes offers the sunnier skiing.

Look out for the Napoleonic fort at the top of the mountain (on the border), which is an interesting feature.

The Petit St Bernard pass comes over the mountain here, and in winter the road is actually a ski run. Bizarrely you ski past a road sign with speed limits on it (though apparently no road in sight, so it appears as if it’s a ski speed limit sign!).

Experts have a dozen black runs to choose from, some of the steepest down through the woods above La Thuile itself. The runs are graded according to their steepest, with the best (worst?) a rather intimidating 72% plunge (although that steep bit is rather short and wide, so you can traverse it if you prefer to). An added bonus is the relatively safe and uncrowded off-piste fields, which tend to stay unskied for longer than at more crowded resorts on the other side of the border.

Finally, La Thuile has a reasonably priced (comparatively, again) heli-ski service, by which it is possible to reach the snowfields of the Rutor glacier and Mont Miravidi. Apart from the local

and cross-border ski passes, there’s an option of the Aosta Valley pass that covers 800km of terrain served by nearly 200 lifts in over a dozen ski areas, including Cervinia (linked to Zermatt), Courmayeur, which is a 30-minute bus ride away, which itself

varied area pretty well hassle-free.

The long blues and reds up above the treeline is great terrain, and then down in the trees there are natural features to hit on. The only thing to be wary of, if you head over, is some flat sections on the La Rosière link. Cross-country skiers have four loops covering a total area of 12km.

When the lifts close there are 30 or so bars and restaurants in resort to choose from, and some of the better informed head first to the Gelateria for their legendary cakes and ice-cream, or just stick to the slopeside Roxy Bar. In the early evening lively bars include Cage Aux Folles. Late-night entertainment is provided in the video disco pub La Bricole in Entrèves, and the Discoteca Fantasia in the Planibel complex.

Wherever you stay in La Thuile, you can enjoy the spectacular views that take in the Matterhorn, Monterosa and Mont Blanc is linked to Chamonix (lift ticket there at an additional cost, but just about physically possible to ski over if you set off on the early bus), and Pila.

Boarders and freestylers have a fun park to enjoy in La Rosière, and the predominance of chair and gondola lifts makes getting around the big and

Popular restaurant choices include Lo Creton, La Grotta, Le Rascard and La Lisse, which are good pizzerias, whilst A La Lune is popular for its local Aostan as well as Tuscan cuisine in Planibel. La Raclette and La Bricole have a slightly more French feel and are the places for fondues and similar. The Piccolo San Bernardo and la Fordze are perhaps the most highly regarded establishments in the resort and offer the best choice.

For families with children aged 4–12 years, they can join the Miniclub per Bambini based at Planibel, which has a snow garden for the younger ones to enjoy. The Club is provided free to everybody, and operates for 3 hours in the morning and 3 hours in the afternoon.

Planibel is certainly a good choice for families with the ease of access to all facilities on the slopes and off, family-friendly apartment-style accommodation, the swimming pool and the Miniclub. And which children don’t like to eat pasta or pizza?

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Package Deals

Pila 2000

£399 PER PERSON

www.crystalski.co.uk

Everything from Roman Remains to An Irish pub

Chalet des Alpes

£549 PER PERSON

PILA

£659 PER PERSON

www.interski.co.uk

REASONS TO SKI

2 hrs 15m to Nearest Airport

Fly to Pila from: Gatwick, Stansted, Birmingham, Doncaster/Sheffield, Manchester, Bournemouth, Bristol, Newcastle, Glasgow

Pila is an old town with a big vertical high in the Aosta Valley.

It is one of the most snowsure destinations in the Alps, with the ski area running from 1765m – one of the highest resort bases on the continent, right up to more than 2700m. Another unusual attraction is that the region’s historic capital, Aosta, 18km away by road, is actually lift-linked directly by an 18-minute gondola ride, giving an expanded choice of dining, shopping and sightseeing opportunities for anyone based in the ski resort.

Pila is located on a natural balcony from which there are great views from Mont Blanc to Gran Paradiso, and as far as Monterosa, and the resort has a reputation for lively après-ski. There is no need for cars once you arrive because you will find ski slopes and services right on your doorstep.

It has undergone a great deal of expansion in recent years, with its big ski area and modern lift network

proving a major attraction.

Pila’s skiing offers the best of all worlds with skiing through woods of birch and larch in total safety and freedom on lower slopes, and open powder snow areas above the treeline. Beginners and children have easy ski runs such as Baby Pila, Baby Gorraz and Grimod.

The more advanced progress onto

It’s a unique experience skiing through aromatic birch woods and extraordinary snow first thing in the morning.

For experts the Bellevue black run and Couis 1 are two tough runs, the latter a little easier than the former, with breathtaking panoramas over the nearby Cogne valley, and the entire Monterosa range.

For winter 2010– 11, the resort has opened a rare new black run this winter starting from Platta de Grevon (2700m) and descending to Plan De L’Eyve.

Access to the run is provided by a conveyor lift from the Couis 1 arrival station. This new lift is housed within a Perspex cover, forming a tunnel that is likely to be covered by snow through the winter for minimal visual impact, as well as protecting users from extremes of weather.

The area where the new run is

Pila’s skiing offers the best of all worlds... ski woods in total safety... freedom on lower slopes, and open powder snow areas above the treeline steeper slopes such as Leissé and Nouva, which usually have excellent snow where you can turn and model curves endlessly, especially good news for carving enthusiasts in search of thrills and excitement.

A run not to be missed is the Du Bois from the Chamolé chair lift.

located is well-positioned in terms of slopes and snowfall, and has been landscaped for a smooth descent, whilst also being made secure from avalanche danger.

The resort has also announced that, to add to the enjoyment for those who like their snow light and fluffy, the new piste will be left ungroomed after each big snowfall – for several days at least, to provide an off-piste experience.

The snowpark is popular with boarders and freestylers, combining natural terrain features with created structures. There are jumps, slides and half-pipe for those of all ages and experience. If you are already expert then the thrills of fun box, spine and the big jump await you.

Pila has modern comfortable ski lifts that cut queuing times and provide fast ascents. The slopes are well-maintained with more than 400 cannons for snowmaking, guaranteeing more than half of the slopes are covered.

Pila is on the the Aosta Valley

PILA

1. Wonderful location on sunny, snowsure plateau.

2. Affordable heli-skiing locally.

3. Direct gondola link to the historic market town of Aosta.

4. Fabulous views stretching from Mont Blanc to Monterosa.

5. Some lively nightlife – there’s even an Irish pub.

pass, which covers 800km of terrain, served by nearly 200 lifts in over a dozen ski areas, including Cervinia, linked to Zermatt and other famous resorts in the area, such as La Thuile and Courmayeur (a 30-minute bus ride away), which itself is linked to Chamonix. Ski passes valid for 3 days or more give the option of skiing from 1–3 days in one of these other ski areas in the Aosta Valley.

Once the lifts close, Pila can be lively at night when the right crowd are in town, although it is often

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Gallaghers Irish Pub is one of the busier spots most nights, and The Old English Distillery can throw great parties, with dancing on the table all-night-long when given a good enough excuse (like St Patrick’s Day).

There are plenty of good restaurants, amongst them Lo Baoutson, which serves up an incredible nine-course traditional meal on special occasions like New Year and provides a snowmobile taxi.

Hermitage and Chatelaine are also purveyors of high-quality cuisine.

For pizza, La Montanara in the Hotel Plan Bois has a good reputation, and for even more choice you can always head down on the lift to ancient Aosta for an evening meal.

Besides skiing you can try snowshoeing or there’s a natural ice rink. The village has a handful of ski shops and stores selling other essentials, but for a wider selection it’s easy to head over to Aosta, which has a wide selection of shops, as well as bars, clubs, a cinema, theatre,

cultural events and –if you’d like a little sightseeing one day – perfectly preserved Roman remains, including the Arch of Augustus, the city walls and the Roman theatre.

A nice intimate resort for families to enjoy a quality holiday together, children aged up to 4 years have a “play and learn ground” with colourful games and a conveyer belt for those on skis, and a newly-created mini park with sledging and tubing. The ski school has a special club for children.

Older children get a beginners ticket to ski on the easy runs.

Children up to 8-years-old receive a free ski pass at Pila – more generous than at most major resorts. Older children aged up to 14 years now get 40% off the adult price (increased from 30% prior to winter 2010–11).

Quick and easy to reach from both Milan and Turin airports, Pila will offer a memorable holiday to all levels of skier and boarder, and all types of holiday group from beginner to advanced, and singles to families.

www.aosta-valley.co.uk 1 valley. 4 peaks. 800km of pistes. 160 lifts. No limits!