‘Stoning Mary’ Costume Supervisor’s Bible

STONING MARY 2022

DIRECTOR: KWAME OWUSU

COSTUME DESIGNER: ANYA HOBSON

COSTUME SUPERVISOR'S BIBLE

BA (Hons) Costume

Unit number: COS601 Production Practise

Cara Finn

Student number: 2006345

COVER CONTENTS

CAST LIST AND MEASUREMENTS

Cast List and Headshots

Photos and measurements:

Jake Draper

Sky Ward

Kevin Pako

Katya Jacobs

Atena Redzhebova

Ryan Byrne

Gabriela Chanova

Georgia Weller

Elliot Cox

Stina Röjestål

Cheat Sheet

SCHEDULES

Fitting Schedule

Pre-Assessment Schedule

RESEARCH

Script breakdown

Moodboards and Research:

Child Soldier

Husband

Wife

Dad

Mum

Mary / Younger Sister

Older Sister

Boyfriend

Corrections Officer

DESIGN TO FINAL COSTUME

Costume Design thumbnails

Husband + Husband Ego:

Design

Fitting

Pre-Assessment

Final costume

Costume Breakdown:

Husband

Costume Breakdown:

Husband Ego

page 1

page 3

page 5

page 6

page 7-8

page 9-10

page 11-12

page 13-14

page 15-16

page 17-18

page 19-20

page 21-22

page 23-24

page 25-26

page 27

page 29

page 30

page 31

page 33

page 34

page 35-37

page 38-40

page 41-43

page 44-46

page 47-49

page 50-52

page 53-55

page 56-58

page 59-60

page 61

page 62

page 63

page 64

page 65

page 66 page 67

page 68

Design

Fitting

Pre-Assessment

Final Costume

Costume Breakdown: Wife

Costume Breakdown: Wife

Ego

Design

Fitting: Mum 1 & 2

Fitting: Mum 3

Pre-Assessment: Mum 1 & 2

Pre-Assessment: Mum 3

Final Costume: Mum 1 & 1.5

Final Costume: Mum 2 & 3

Costume Breakdown: Mum

1

Costume Breakdown: Mum

1.5

Costume Breakdown: Mum 2

Costume Breakdown: Mum

page 69

page 70

page 71

page 72

page 73

page 74

page 75

page 76

page 77

page 78

page 79

page 80

page 81

page 82

page 83

page 84

page 85

page 86

Fitting: Dad 1

Fitting: Dad 2

Pre-Assessment: Dad 1

Pre-Assessment: Dad 2

Final Costume: Dad 1 & 1.5

Final Costume: Dad 2

Costume Breakdown: Dad 1

Costume Breakdown: Dad

1.5

Costume Breakdown: Dad 2

Design

Fitting

Pre-Assessment

Final Costume

Costume Breakdown:

Boyfriend

Costume Breakdown:

Boyfriend Ego

Wife + Wife Ego: Mum: Dad: Boyfriend + Boyfriend Ego: Older Sister + Older Sister Ego:

Design

page 87

page 88

page 89

page 90

page 91

page 92

page 93

page 94

page 95

page 96

page 97

page 98

page 99

page 100

page 101

page 102

Older

CAST LIST AND MEASUREMENTS

page 5 - 28

CAST LIST & HEADSHOTS

stoning mary

Husband/Boyfriend:

JakeDraper Wife: SkyWard

Husband ego / Boyfriendego: KevinPako

Wife ego / Older

Sisterego: KatyaJacobs

Mum: AtenaRedzhebova Dad: RyanByrne

OlderSister: GabrielaChanova

YoungerSister(Mary): GeorgiaWeller

ChildSoldier(Son): ElliottCox

CorrectionsOfficer: StinaRöjestål

JAKE DRAPER

JAKE DRAPER

SKY WARD

Photos

KEVIN PAKO

Photos

KEVIN PAKO

KATYA JACOBS

Photos

KATYA JACOBS Measurement sheet

ATENA REDZHEBOVA

ATENA REDZHEBOVA

Measurement sheet

RYAN BYRNE

Photos

RYAN BYRNE Measurement sheet

GABRIELA CHANOVA

GABRIELA CHANOVA

Measurement sheet

GEORGIA WELLER

GEORGIA

ELLIOT COX

STINA RÖJESTÅL

STINA RÖJESTÅL

SCHEDULES

page 29 - 32

FITTING SCHEDULE

PRE-ASSESSMENT SCHEDULE

SCRIPT BREAKDOWN

CHILD SOLDIER

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

DRESSING: 'Blouse' military boots

Researchquestions

HEADWEARoptions

CAMOprint

BOOTstyleandcolour

DRESSRULES

otherbackgroundinfo

DPM black,brown,beige, green

DesertDPM

beige,sand

MTP sand,beige,brown, green

findyoutubevideo fordressers ✓

Fig.1 Child Soldier DESIGN by Anya Hobson

Fig.2 Retired soldier Patrick Finn training, wearing DPM, circa 2012

CHILD SOLDIER Research

We used to use a darker material which was called the Disruptive Pattern Material which is that dark green camo that you see for the British[...] now we use something called MTP which is Multi Terrain Pattern. [...] We wear brown boots now with the MTP but we wore traditional black boots withtheDPMbecauseitwasdarkeranditlookedbetter. (Finn,P.2022)

1.

2.

In terms of hat, beret is for ceremonial dress [...] your two choices are a beanie, people wear baseball caps now [...] the traditional thing would be to wear a jungle hat which is a bit like a boonie. There's also the mountaincap (Finn,P.2022)

"All NATO members must wear the flag [of their country] on theirleftsleeve" (Finn,P.2022)

Fig.4 Retired soldier Patrick Finn training, wearing Desert DPM with British flag on left arm, circa 2012

Fig.3 Retired soldier Patrick Finn training, wearing MTP, circa 2012

DMPismorerecogniseable helmet->itechoes greenbeanie blackberet

HEADWEARforfitting:

3. Baseball cap, mountain cap and jungle hat are not recogniseable

HUSBAND

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

Researchquestions

whatjewellery-weddingring

what is important- colour, pattern or texture?

whatshoes?

otherlayeringoptionsforcharacter

NOTES FROM MEETING WITH DESIGNER

shirt - potentially patterned, most important is colour palette

chinos - tie in with top boat shoes

layering options - jumper, fine knit, in colour palette

Madefromcottonandnotsomefussywool,they were more durable, easier to clean, and considered less class specific, but more formal thandenim.Whiledenimwasbecomingsymbolic of rebel youth culture, chinos had become symbolicoftheeducatedmiddleclass. (CanoeClub,n/a)

historyofchinosismilitarywear-arethere othermilitaryreferencesincostumes?

check and gingham shirts from Elliott Rd and Costume boxesdesigner likes green/blue shirt asreference

Fig.5 Husband DESIGN by Anya Hobson

HUSBAND Research

Traditionally, boating shoes are made out of leather. The ownerisexpectedtoapplyoil regularly so that the exterior of the shoe can repel water and keep their feet dry. It’s also common to find boaters wearing these shoes without socks.

(Borjab,2022)

at TSU the ego wore a simple &neutral outfit, which remained the same for both Husband andBoyfriend

otherrepresentationsofHusbandandhisEgo

At RADA the Ego was dressed in a similar manner to Husband, but not in the exact replicacostume

Fig.7 Husband, Wife, and Egos - 'stoning mary' at the Royal Academy of Dramatic Arts, 2019

Fig.6 Husband, Wife, and Egos - 'stoning mary' at Texas State University, 2016

WIFE

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

WIFE Research

Startingdesign: Thedesignerinitiallylikedjerseyfortheflowofthefabric -herinspiration

"Modest,traditional,homelyandmaternal" (Hobson,2022)

"Mumsy: drab or dowdy; unfashionable" (Dictionary.com, n/a)

Researchquestions

whatsortofshoes

whatfabricisthedressmadeof whatjewelleryoptions?x2rings whatlayers?-cardigan

Key words for wife: wants to win, not fully out of love,resilient,savage,vulnerable (Osuwu,2022)

Optionsforwifedress-DESIGNERNotes:

YEStojersey

NOtotiers

Fig.8 Wife DESIGN by Anya Hobson

Fig.9ForColoredGirlsWhoHaveConsideredSuicide/When theRainbowIsEnuf,1976

WIFE Research

Redesign:

Ithinkthathavingherinamoretexturedoutfitinsteadof a plain jersey would make for a more visually interesting costume. [...] a style that will be recognised as a look thatmiddleagedwomen,maybemums,wouldwear (Hobson,2022)

Muslindressfrometsy

Feedback:designerlikesfabric

collectionofsamplesfromshopping that thedesignerlikes lookformuslinandlinen

Options for boots from ElliotRd

woodenbeadednecklace

"TheNaughtyShrew"onlineshop

Fig.10 Moodboard by Anya Hobson for Wife final design

DAD

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

Researchquestions

whatsortofshoes?

whatjewellery

what time-passing layers? how do theyinteractwithMumcostume

NOTES FROM MEETING WITH DESIGNER

bomber jacket - tan, red?

harrington jumper - jersey, not knitted, maybe grey

no wedding ring - maybe pendant necklace to mirror CS dog tags?

lookincostumestoreforHarringtonjackets andbomberjackets-MILITARYwearinspired

designerreallylikesthisjacketfromCostumeStore -wrongsizeforactorbutkeepforreferencepoint

KeywordsforDad:blamesMumforson'sradicalisation,grieving,nasty,controlling.Quicktoanger,scared ofson,attractedtoMum (Osuwu,2022)

Fig.11 Dad DESIGN by Anya Hobson

DAD Research

Originoffootballhooligans/'casualculture':

Casual culture began to emerge when English football clubs, such as Nottingham Forest, Manchester United, West Ham United, Liverpool, and Everton, made more and more European trips, followed by their hooligans. After disturbances, the football supporters returned to England with expensive Italian or French branded clothing, sometimes stolen from shops. Initially, many supporters started wearing branded clothing and the more expensive sports brands, bearing in mind that it was a lot easier to evade the police this way. The police were looking for drunken football supporters sporting the colors of their club,notagroupofrichyoungpeople. (footballcasuals.net,n/a)

Fig.12ChildSoldier,Dad,andMum-''stoning mary'atTexasStateUniversity,2016

MUM

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

MUM

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

Imagegivenbydesignerforshoedesignsimplewhitetrainersthatblendintolook

Testingfittingoptions: themodel(RemiLever) isasimilarsizetothe actor

The designer really likes the top, however doesn't think the director will - speak to director after fittings

Researchquestions

wheretosourcetrousers?

whatshoesisshewearing?

whatjewelleryoptions?

whatisthevibeofthecharacter?

shoeoptionsforfittings

Cardigan that designer likes - could be worn with red blouse to maintain striking red colour in design

Fig.13 Mum DESIGN by Anya Hobson

MUM

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

KeywordsforMum:

Blames Dad for son's radicalisation, grieving, scared of son, attracted to Dad, has hatred of Mary (Osuwu,2022)

Starting in France in the 16th century, white was worn by bereaved children and unmarriedwomen. (CravenFuneralDirectors,n/a)

Mum's colour palette is very pale with a pop of dark, blood red in the cardigan. The cardigan is to be worn after her son is killed by Mary. The colour may signify the vengeance and anger she feels towards Mary, whereas the fit of the cardigan is slouchy and comforting [...] Her base costume is simple and plain which makes the colour of the cardigan extremely visible and striking (Hobson,2022)

simple jewellery that ties in but doesn't stand out, maybe medallion necklace to mirror son'sdogtags?

'Mango' cream palazzo pants - change button tocream

NOTES FROM MEETING WITH DESIGNER

no shine - no shiny shirt really washed out blouse: collarless, short sleeve burn holes in back of blousebreakdown

knitted red cardigan no pearls

Cardigan that designer likes - could be worn with red blouse to maintain striking red colourindesign

JohnLewispendantnecklace

MARY

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

MARY

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

Researchquestions

what is worn in women's prison? shoes, underwear

what is the vibe of the costume? what optionscanbefound? whatsortofglasses?

designerlikesthese4pairsbest

Usually,offenderswearorangewhilebeingtransported or staying in a temporary facility. The uniforms worn in their "home" prison are traditionally a less pronounced color,suchasnavyblue,beigeorgray.

L>Allonecolour,neutraltone-creamindesign

Maleandfemaleinmatesaretypicallyissuedcanvasor leather deck shoes or sneakers and plastic shower shoes.Sometimestheywillalsobegivenworkboots.

L>sliponshoessamecolourasuniform,nolaces

Asforunderwear,womenareusuallyissuedbrief-style panties,full-coveragebrasandsocks. (Sands,2022)

L> simple flesh toned underwear so as to not distractaudience,nounderwire

Elliot Road

Fig.14 Mary DESIGN by Anya Hobson

MARY

OptionsforMarycostume:

1. items from elliot rd to embellish - like straightjacket

2. buy individual quilted pieces - see H&M + M&S

3. buy top and trousers and quilt - make sample

NOTES FROM MEETING WITH DESIGNER

look for straightjacket at Elliot Rd

vibe of padded cell - could be achieved through quilting adding on ties and decoration to bought base costume is option

M&S

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

3 Quilted samples made by Beth Laceydesigner likes second sample best,, with 5cmx5cmpattern

Costume store

H&M

Fig.15 Mary in stoning mary' at Texas State University, 2016

OLDER SISTER

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

OLDER SISTER

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

designer's choice for top fromCider-reviewsfortop sayqualityisnotgood

Option1:buy distressedjumper

MingaLondonpredistressedjumper

Researchquestions

whatsortofjumper?inspiration howcanthejumperbemade/sourced?

whatjewelleryoptions? whatshoes?

JadedLondon creamparachute pants

Fig.16 Older Sister DESIGN by Anya Hobson

OLDER SISTER

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

Eventually the shoe [Converse Chuck Taylors] would become associated with individualism and counter-cultures,pavingthewayforittobecome the preferred choice of punks in the 1970s, metalheadsinthe1980sandthegrungescenein the 1990s. [...] It’s not about popping tags and having a crisp white pair – you wore what you hadandyouworeittodeath.”

(Smith,2020)

PunkdesignerssuchasVivienne

WestwoodandReiKawakubo beganpre-distressinggarments

-boughtknitjumpercouldbe distressed

Option2:distress jumper shreddedjerseytopfrom etsyshop

'DreadSKinsStudio': boughtjerseyjumper couldbefinelyshredded

NOTES FROM MEETING WITH DESIGNER

'combat' - MILITARY theme cont. subversive + knitwear - where does this design come from?

streetwear

jumper from cider - is this a sustainable source? look into converse?

Fig.17 Jumper designed by Rei Kawakubo, 1982

Fig.18 Kurt Cobain, frontman of Nirvana, wearing Chuck Taylors

BOYFRIEND

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

BOYFRIEND

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

NOTES FROM MEETING WITH DESIGNER

more youthful and washed-out version of husband - same cycle cargo trousers or corduroy shoes: wallabees, Birkenstock clogs no patterns, linen, cotton or corduroy

James Acaster/ 'archaeology' student

The Wallabee has infiltrated subcultures in a way only a handful of shoes ever have. While music has been the main instigator and influence behind the shoe’s rise across the years, its simple, iconic and totallyuniqueaestheticresonatesuniversally. (Willson,2019)

Researchquestions

whatisthevibeoftheshirtandtrousers?

whatoptionscouldbebroughttofittings

whatshoes?

whatsortofpersonishe?

Fig.19 Boyfriend DESIGN by Anya Hobson

Fig.1 Hip hop group Run-D.C.M. wearing wallabees, c. 1984 by Janette Beckman

Moodboard by designer Anya Hobson

Mid-century, corduroy had been used predominantly for men’s clothes, which appealed to the antiestablishmentwhoadopteditastheiruniform. (Smith,n/a)

1970's inspired - subculture and anti-establishment roots,with2022versionof70'srevival

corduroytrousers

shirt from costume boxes - designer really likes, we can'tusebecauseneedduplicates

Key words for Boyfriend: wants to live but eager to please, loves Older Sister more than she loveshim

(Osuwu,2022)

Fig.21 Model for brand 'Closed' wearing 70s inspired 'sportwear', and wallabee shoes

Fig.20 British comedian James Acaster

CORRECTIONS OFFICER

INTERVIEWWITHBRITISHFEMALEPRISON OFFICER

6.00am

I start the day with toast, egg and beans. I iron my uniform – a shirt and trousers – and polish my boots the nightbeforetosavetime.Wecanwear make-upbutIkeepitlight.

6.30pm

I pass over to a support officer, hand in my belt, keys and radio and sign out.

(Idaya,n/a)

Make sure C.O. uniform is ironed

Make sure to get/make epaulettes - Elliot Rd?

Researchquestions

whichaccessoriesdoweassociatewith aCorrectionalofficer?

whatspecificdressrules?

wheretosourceuniforms?

get clip-on tie - to prevent being strangled byinmate

“Ready-madetiesarespecifiedforpoliceas asafetymeasurebecausetheybreakaway when pulled, depriving a suspect of the opportunity to choke or otherwise injure an officerinaconfrontation,” (Browne,2013)

Fig.22 Corrections Officer DESIGN by Anya Hobson

Fig.23 British male prison officer

CORRECTIONS OFFICER Research

PRISON DRESS RULES HRM

Uniformed officers must display their unique number, on their epaulette or by other means on their clothing.

The standard uniform for officers and OSGs shall consist of:

Men: White shirt, tie, epaulettes, black trousers, fleece jacket or sweater, belt, key chain and pouch, whistle, boots or shoes, overcoat.

Women: White blouse, epaulettes, black trousers or skirt, fleece jacket or sweater, belt, key chain and pouch, whistle, boots or shoes, overcoat.

(Ministry of Justice, 2022)

Sources:

-Kombatuk.com

-Niton999.co.uk

-Dunlopsafety

-Baratec

NOTES FROM MEETING WITH DESIGNER

short-sleeve shirt

'clunky' shoes

black trousers

black tie

walkie talkie belt

shoulder epaulettes

DESIGN TO FINAL COSTUME page 61-146

for all breakdown see Breakdown Bible created by MaddiePowell

COSTUME DESIGN

by Anya Hobson

HUSBAND + HUSBAND EGO

Design

HUSBAND + HUSBAND EGO

Fitting

FITTING NOTES BY AMBER ZOLLO

Maybe look ‘too old’. Actors feel the clothes suit their character. Shirts are good – top button undone. Can’t roll up sleeves as boyfriend has tattoos on arms.

Trousers slightly too baggy/long on Ego (waist size is fine however). Husband trousers are okay. Returning Ego’s trousers for shorter ones?

Trousers need to be worn out – put through the washing machine a few times?

Designer feels the jumpers are too old – returning them.

Change the shoes (younger shoes). (Designer prefers darker boots from the costume store).

Wedding Rings – regular simple bands (skinny). Potentially gold to match wife. (Gold too ‘new and bold’ tarnish the golden rings if they are chosen).

Husband (left) and Husband ego (right) BEFORE Husband AFTER

HUSBAND + HUSBAND EGO

Pre-Assessment

salvaged?

Add colour and distress to the back of the shirts of the husband and ego, add more burn marks all over the shirts of the husband and ego, Put the shirts of the husband and ego through a grey wash, Add repair to the shirts like war torn OR buy new shirts

Take the label off the shirts of husband and ego

Make the shirts proportionate to the each other with heights of the husband and ego being different- length and the arm length

Husband (left) and Husband ego (right)

HUSBAND + HUSBAND EGO

Final costume

Husband FINAL COSTUME

Husband ego FINAL COSTUME

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: JAKE DRAPER

Character: HUSBAND

Scenes: 1, 3, 5, 7

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: KEVIN PAKO

Character: HUSBAND EGO

Scenes: 1,3,5,7

WIFE + WIFE EGO Design

WIFE + WIFE EGO

Fitting

FITTING NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

The ego is jumping a lot

Sort the gaps between the buttons of the of the dress in the bust area either sew together or poppers

Beaded necklace- like better on the ego, smaller beads

May need to buy the necklace

Engagement ring and wedding ring

Two matching engagement adjustable rings for wife and ego

Age and dirt the dresses

Soft knit socks to be worn- grey woolly socks

Inbetween boot length between the two lengths of the boots

Either boots or cardigan need to go

Rolled up leggings- dressers can do this

Darker colour for boots- flat shoes/less heel

Darker beaded necklace- options for preassessment

Wife Ego (left) and Wife (right) BEFORE Wife Ego (left) and Wife (right) AFTER

WIFE + WIFE EGO

Pre-Assessment

FITTING NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

Change the boots for Sky

Change the necklace to something silver rather than the beads for the wife and ego?

Wife and ego without the cardigan

Add two more poppers into the dress of the wife and ego

Wife Ego (left) and Wife (right) BEFORE Wife Ego AFTER Wife AFTER

WIFE + WIFE EGO

Final costume

Wife FINAL COSTUME

Wife ego FINAL COSTUME

COSTUME HIRE/BUY BREAKDOWN

Actor: SKY WARD

Character: WIFE

Scenes: 1,3,5,7

COSTUME HIRE/BUY BREAKDOWN

Actor: KATYA JACOBS

Character: WIFE EGO

Scenes: 1,3,5,7

MUM Design

MUM 1 & 2

FITTING NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

First shoes are a little big size 6-6 ½

The white outfit looks too bright compared to the other characters - too “elegant”

Jeans- skinny or straight, baggy?

Red cardigan works for the character

Black skinny jeans- Boots with the jeans?

Shirt for mum- not shiny?

Burn in the back of the top chosen

Hoop earrings

Blue jeans- like the colour, boot cut

Do a lot of sitting down as a character

Belt loops at the back or higher waist with the boot cut style

light brown boots (dusty) with the jeans, white tshirt and red cardigan

Ankle length boots (dusty) too big

Wedding ring- do they need it? Ask in the preassessment to the director

MUM 3

Fitting

Mum

FITTING NOTES BY

AMELIE SCROGGS

Second coat- trench coat looks better to wear- done up with the belt

3 BEFORE Mum 3 AFTER

MUM 1 & 2 Pre-Assessment

FITTING NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

Change the mum’s jeans to be higher waisted New mum top

The mum and dad are too similar in cream tshirt Like the style of top on the mum just need to change the burn holes on the top on the back

Black jeans for mum- more loose for movement, straight leg

Mum 1 FRONT

Mum 1 BACK Mum 2

MUM 1 & 1.5

Final costume

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: ATENA REDZHEBOVA

Character: MUM 1

Scenes: 2,4,6

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: ATENA REDZHEBOVA

Character: MUM 1.5

Scenes: 9, 11

COSTUME HIRE/BUY BREAKDOWN

Actor: ATENA REDZHEBOVA

Character: MUM 2

Scenes: 13

COSTUME HIRE/BUY BREAKDOWN

Actor: ATENA REDZHEBOVA

Character: MUM 3

Scenes: 16

DAD Design

DAD 1

Fitting

BEFORE Dad 1 AFTER

FITTING NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

Jeans to be broken down by Maddie- rips and some dirt

First top is too young for the character

White t-shirt better- right size and need to breakdown by Maddie

Actor is okay with skin showing

Burn holes in the t-shirt are the best on the broken down t-shirt

Broken down t-shirt is the right colour for character

Have burn holes on the shoulder and back like in the design

Shoes- the be broken down by Maddie

Add different laces- broken down laces

Second belt fits- to wear

First jeans- small amount of breakdown, mud etc

No glasses earrings etc

Dad 1

DAD 2

Fitting

Dad 2 BEFORE

FITTING NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

Dad 2 AFTER

Grey jumper not right- hangs on the body and wrong colour

Green jumper, colour works against the red of Mum

The jumper to be broken down by Maddie again- distressed

Leave arm length as it is but pin where it could be shortened if needed

Ring- wedding band gold

DAD 1 Pre-Assessment

PRE-ASSESSMENT NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

try Dad in black jeans rather than trousers - Blue jeans for dad

Polo shirt for dad, larger sizing and different colour to cream or white- too close to mum

Change the colour of the polo top of dad- blue is too big and not the right colour-TBC

DAD 2

PRE-ASSESSMENT NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

Sweatshirt loose but with a t-shirt underneath Polo for first half and jumper for second half of the play for dad

Dad 2 BEFORE

Dad 2 AFTER

DAD 1 & 1.5

Final costume

Dad 2 FINAL COSTUME

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: RYAN BYRNE

Character: DAD 1

Scenes: 2,4,6

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: RYAN BYRNE

Character: DAD 1.5

Scenes: 9,11

COSTUME HIRE/BUY BREAKDOWN

Actor: RYAN BYRNE

Character: DAD 2

Scenes: 13

BOYFRIEND + BOYFRIEND EGO

Design

BOYFRIEND + BOYFRIEND EGO

FITTING NOTES BY AMBER ZOLLO

Designer doesn’t like the cream shirt and brown cargos together - ‘look like rangers’ Designer mentioned a light khaki top?

Cream shirts buttoned up are a no. The green shirt is too similar to dad’s?

White shirt with the cream shirt on top (open) looks better. Green shirt was also worn underneath but the white shirt looks better. Defiantly untucked shirts, but need for a potential texture? White shirt needs aging.

Trousers and shoes are good for the designer. Ego’s trousers are way too baggy (would need hemming) but waist size is good. Boyfriend trousers need a size down on waist – they are too big. These trousers will also need to be worn – put through the wash a few times.

Big belt looks good – white shirt partially tucked in to see the belt (potential accessory).

Chain necklaces? Small and plain?

Bracelets – brown and beaded bracelets. Designer really likes.

Boyfriend (left) and Boyfriend Ego (right) BEFORE

BOYFRIEND + BOYFRIEND EGO

Pre-Assessment

Boyfriend AFTER

PRE-ASSESSMENT NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

Don’t have the shirts of boyfriend and ego

Change the patches on the front of the tshirt of boyfriend

Change the tshirt for boyfriend- white tshirt

Keep chain and take away the bracelet’s boyfriend

Add silver rings to boyfriend

Change boyfriend shoes to air force style shoes- white and scuffed

Add earrings to boyfriend- magnetic for boyfriend and ego has the piercing

Have a box to put the earring in for each- boyfriend and ego

BOYFRIEND + BOYFRIEND EGO

Final costume

Boyfriend (pictured) and Boyfriend Ego FINAL COSTUME

COSTUME HIRE/BUY BREAKDOWN

Actor: JAKE DRAPER

Character: BOYFRIEND

Scenes: 14

COSTUME HIRE/BUY BREAKDOWN

Actor: KEVIN PAKO

Character: BOYFRIEND EGO

Scenes: 14

OLDER SISTER AND OLDER

OLDER SISTER AND OLDER

SISTER EGO

Fitting

FITTING NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

Looks good on both actors

Vest tucked in when it comes

Dirty up the trousers- worn

Breakdown shoes

Draw string at the ankle

Needs two necklaces one for each of them- like the

older sister necklace more, layered

Tarnished necklace- simple

Black string necklace works- more simple- options to use

Options for necklaces at pre-assessment needed to see with Mary BLACK JUMPER WAS MISSING DUE TO POSTAL DELAYS - WILL BE AT PRE ASSESSMENT

Older Sister (left) and Older Sister Ego (right)

Older Sister with coat - not with ego

OLDER SISTER AND OLDER SISTER EGO

Pre-Assessment

PRE-ASSESSMENT NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

The jumper has too many holes- older sister and ego Neutral top to place over the cami top- zip up black hoodie with black zip for older sister and ego

Older Sister (left) and Older Sister Ego (right) BEFORE

Older Sister (left) and Older Sister Ego (right) AFTER

OLDER SISTER 2 AND OLDER SISTER EGO

Final Costume

Older Sister 2 (pictured) and Older Sister Ego FINAL COSTUME

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: GABRIELA CHANOVA

Character: OLDER SISTER 1

Scenes: T2, T3, 8, 10, 12, 15

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: GABRIELA CHANOVA

Character: OLDER SISTER 2

Scenes: 14

Actor: KATYA JACOBS

Character: OLDER SISTER EGO

Scenes: 14

MARY Design

FITTING NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

Quilted pattern into the jumper and bottoms- ask one of the makers

No outfit changes to think about

Toms shoes with the outfit

The first black glasses work best- need to add the glass in Thin tshirt for under the clothes for the preassessment

Need a sample of the stitching on the jumper and trousers

Mary / Younger sister

Prison outfit- grey marl colour- Mary

Plimsolls for shoes- Mary

No quilting of the jumper and joggers for Mary

Changed glasses of Mary- thick glasses rather than thick lenses

Thin silver framed glasses

COSTUME HIRE/BUY BREAKDOWN

Actor: GEORGIA WELLER

Character: MARY 1

Scenes: 8, 10, 12

COSTUME HIRE/BUY BREAKDOWN

Actor: GEORGIA WELLER

Character: MARY 2

Scenes: 16

CHILD SOLDIER

FITTING NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

Dark brown boots worn best so far

The costume to fit rather than be over size

Green belt with trousers- the trousers in the boot

Beanie makes him look younger

Scruffy way of wearing the uniform

Add the black machete belt on top to get to easily

Attends the stoning of Mary as child solider as a ghost haunting

Machete belt needs to be longer to put around the hips rather than the waist

Shirt style jacket

Change the flag on the shirt/cover up and sort the Velcro on the shirt

Black boots with dirt + darker pattern shirt and trousers

Padding in the shoes as there is an irritation with stitching

Sweat stains on the top

Add dog tags- need to be dirtied up

Laces of boots don’t need to be elasticated

Child Soldier AFTER

CHILD SOLDIER

Pre-Assessment

Child Soldier BEFORE

PRE-ASSESSMENT NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

Change boots of the child solider

Mud on child solider needs to be more all over

Add a crew neck tshirt under the shirt of child soldier when the shirt is done up

Top button of the shirt of child solider to be undone

Find new laces for boots of child soldier

Take the Velcro off the shirt of the child solider at the arm and two on the chest

Utility/army brown belt for the child solider- belt over the shirt to get to easier

Tighten the cuffs of the child solider instead of cuffing the shirt

CHILD SOLDIER

Final costume

Child Soldier FINAL COSTUME

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: ELLIOTT COX

Scenes: T1, 5, 9, 12, 13, T5, 16

Character: CHILD SOLDIER / SON

CORRECTIONS OFFICER Design

CORRECTIONS OFFICER

Corrections Officer BEFORE

Corrections Officer AFTER

FITTING NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

Clip on tie- for being in a correctional institution

Go up a size for the trousers to fit Black watch- bigger watch works better

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: STINA RÖJESTÅL

Character: CORRECTIONS OFFICER 1

Scenes: 8, 15

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: STINA RÖJESTÅL

Character: CORRECTIONS OFFICER 2

Scenes: 16

TRANSITION AND STONING Design

TRANSITION AND STONING

Fitting and Pre-Assessment photos

Katya Fitting Jake Fitting

Kevin Fitting

Ryan Fitting

Sky Fitting

Katya, [Ryan], Jake, Kevin Pre-Assessment

Stina Pre-Assessment Ryan Pre-Assessment

TRANSITION AND STONING

Notes

FITTING NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS AND AMBER ZOLLO

Jake: Coat works with Husband costume. Maybe wear black trousers with Boyfriend costume as brown cargos are too bright.

Ryan: Coat is good

Kevin: Coat works with Husband Ego costume. Maybe wear black trousers with Boyfriend Ego costume as brown cargos are too bright.

Sky: Coat is good

Katya: First coat is too big. Second coat is good

Show director fitting photos and discuss whether turning up collars is ok or if coats need hoods

18TH OCTOBER - HOOD MAKING WORKSHOP

Director wants hoods

Make 9 hoods with help from Verity Shaw and Phoebe Repp

Ask makers to sew hoods and numbers into coats for CPD hours

ask ASM's to come to Pre-Assessment to try coats

PRE-ASSESSMENT NOTES BY AMELIE SCROGGS

Jake: swap coat with Ryan. Sew popper to collar. Trousers fit

Ryan: swap coat with Jake. Sew popper to collar. Get trousers

Kevin: Coat is good. Sew popper to collar. Trousers fit

Sky: left early, coat was good in fitting

Stina: needs transition coat - share Ryan's

Katya: Coat is good with Black leggings

ASM's: did not come - get measurements from Amelie - TCE Cast Madina and Eleise

TECH WEEK NOTES

Final transition & stoning costume list: Jake, Ryan, Kevin, Sky, Katya, Stina, Madina, Eleise

Ryan and Stina cannot share coat - buy new coat for Stina

Katya and Eleise cannot share coat - buy new coat

Katya carries white stones which stain coat - give her coat to Eleise and buy new coat for Katya

JAKE TRANSITION, JAKE STONING

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

BREAKDOWN

Actor: JAKE DRAPER

Character: JAKE TRANSITION SCENES

Scenes: t4

Actor: JAKE DRAPER

Character: JAKE STONING

Scenes: 16

RYAN STONING

Final costume

Ryan Stoning FINAL COSTUME

COSTUME HIRE/BUY BREAKDOWN

Actor: RYAN BYRNE

Character: RYAN STONING

Scenes: 16

KEVIN TRANSITION, KEVIN STONING

COSTUME HIRE/BUY BREAKDOWN

Actor: KEVIN PAKO

Character: KEVIN TRANSITION

Scenes: T4

Actor: KEVIN PAKO

Character: KEVIN STONING

Scenes: 16

ASM ELEISE TRANSITION & STONING

Final costume

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: ASM - ELEISE BAILEY

Character: MADINA TRANSITIONS

Scenes: T5, 16

SKY TRANSITION & STONING

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: SKY WARD

Character: SKY TRANSISTION/STONING

Scenes: t4, t5,16

ASM MADINA TRANSITION & STONING

Final costume

Asm Madina transition & stoning

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: ASM - MADINA ORAZBEKOVA

Character: MADINA TRANSITIONS

Scenes: T5, 16

STINA TRANSITION

COSTUME HIRE/BUY

Actor: STINA RÖJESTÅL

Character: STINA TRANSITIONS

Scenes: T3, T4, T5

KATYA TRANSITION & STONING

Final

COSTUME HIRE/BUY BREAKDOWN

Actor: KATYA JACOBS

Character: KATYA TRANSITION / STONING

Scenes: T4, 16

BUDGET page 147-160

ESTIMATED BUDGET

ESTIMATED BUDGET

FINAL SPEND BUDGET

FINAL SPEND BUDGET

SUPPLIER LIST

Part 1

ABERCROMBIE

Website: https://www.abercrombie.com/shop/uk

ASDA

Castle Lane West

Bournemouth

BH8 9UP

AUB COSTUME STORE

Arts University Bournemouth

Costume Department

7 Fern Barrow

BH12 5HH

AUB HABERDASHERY

Arts University Bournemouth

Costume Department

7 Fern Barrow

BH12 5HH

BARNARDO'S

385 Wimbourne Road

BH9 2AQ

BRITISH RED CROSS

92 High Street

Poole

BH15 1DB

DEBRA

443 Wimbourne Road

Bournemouth

BH9 2AN

Phone: 0808 234 0796

Phone: 01202 844400

Phone: 01202 533011

Phone: 01202 533011

Phone: 01202 535166

Phone: 01202 682211

Phone: 01202 516917

DEICHMANN

60 Dolphin shopping centre

Poole

BH15 1ST

ELLIOTT RD COSTUME STORE

Arts University

Studio 3 Elliott Rd

Bournemouth

BH11 8JJ

FRONTLINE

67 High Street Poole

BH15 1AF

H&M

Dolphin Centre

Poole

BH15 1SQ

Westfield London Shopping Centre Ariel Way

London

W12 7GA

HAPPY BUDDHA

86 High Street Poole

BH15 1DB

HOUSE OF FRASER

Westfield Shopping Centre

Ariel Way

London

W12 7GA

JOHN LEWIS

Website: https://johnlewis.com/

Phone: 01202 672119

Phone: 01202 533011

Phone: 01202 535166

Phone: 0344 736 9000

Phone: 0844 334 4274

Phone: 03443 909 2057

Phone: 03456 049 049

SUPPLIER LIST

Part 3

OXFAM

136 High Street Poole

BH15 1DN

M&S

Website: https://www.marksandspencer.com/

Yeomans Way

Bournemouth

BH8 9UL

Ariel Way Westfield Shopping Centre

London

7GA

MARGARET GREEN ANIMAL RESCUE

531 Wimborne Road

MINGA LONDON

Website: https://mingalondon.com/

MIND

357 Wimborne Road

Bournemouth

BH9 2AD

NAOMI HOUSE & JACKSPLACE

400 Wimborne Road

Winton

Bournemouth

BH9 2HB

NEW LOOK

Unit N

Castlepoint Shopping Centre

Bournemouth

BH8 9UZ

Phone: 01202 598710

SUPPLIER LIST

Part 4

POUNDLAND

370-374 Wimborne Road

Bournemouth

BH9 2HE

PULL&BEAR

Ariel Way

London

W12 7GF

R S TRADING

Shepherds Bush

RIVER ISLAND

Dolphin Centre Poole

BH15 1ST

SAINSBURYS

Castlepoint

Castle Lane West

Bournemouth

BH8 (UW

SHOEZONE

152 High Street Poole

BH15 1DN

377 Wimborne Road

Winton

Bournemouth

BH9 2AQ

SPORTS DIRECT

Unit 4

186-188 High Street

Poole

BH15 1DG

Phone: 01202 516895

Phone: 0344 826 9854

n/a

Phone: 01202 525082

Phone: 01202 667534

Phone: 01202 549316

Phone: 0344 332 5354

SUSTAINABILITY BREAKDOWN

SUSTAINABILITY BREAKDOWN

SUSTAINABILITY BREAKDOWN

SUSTAINABILITY BREAKDOWN

SUSTAINABILITY BREAKDOWN

TECH WEEK & RUNNING

COSTUME PLOT

COSTUME PLOT

COSTUME PLOT

COSTUME PLOT

TECH WEEK NOTES

LAUNDRY NOTES

do not iron Husband + Ego shirts

DRESSING NOTES

tuck in CS Jacket at back

Katya/Wife Ego boot unzipped

Sky/Wife is wearing earrings + bracelet - MAKE SURE THEY TAKE

OFF ALL JEWELLERY

WIFE + EGO cropped leggings - check crop is same length

CS: belt on waist if ok with actor (machete tucked into belt could cause issues)

lint roller MUM Red Cardigan

ALTERATIONS

dress shields in WIFE + EGO dress

DAD jumper remove/conceal embroidery

WIFE EGO take up dress 1"

take hood out of OLDER SISTER coat

buy new coat for ASM Eleise and Stina

slipstitch MUM trouser cuff

cut t-shirt loops MUM top

hem MARY trousers

BREAKDOWN

Dad laces are ok

de-shine WIFE + EGO rings

less mud on CS

wash MARY top and trousers - not look

brand new

TECH WEEK NOTES

LAUNDRY NOTES

n/a

DRESSING NOTES

OLDER SISTER +EGO hoodie halfzipped off of shoulders in all scenes but scene 14, in scene 14 have unzipped

lint roller all black coats

swap Katya and Eleise coats

ALTERATIONS

take down CORRECTIONS OFFICER

trousers

get ankle length black socks for OLDER

SISTER + EGO

make BOYFRIEND magnetic earring silver - nail polish?

change coat labels/coat list sew hoods into new coats

BREAKDOWN

shoe polish MUM boots + scuff side

heel

OLDER SISTER conversetone down white

blend stark line of side of CS pocket

PRE-SET LIST

made by Olivia Godfrey

Coat1:Ryan.Farleftofstonewall

Coat2:Jake.Leftofwall

Coat3:Kevin.Railbackstage

Coat4:Gabi.Wearingatstart

Coat5:Eleise(ASM).Leftofwall

Coat6:Sky.Leftofwall

Coat7:Madina(ASM).Leftofwall

Coat8:Stina.Railbackstage

Coat9:Katya.Leftofwall

Beigecoat:Atena.Farleftofwall

Browncardigan:Atena.Farleftofwall

Blacktrousers:Kevin.Radiatorleftofwall

Blacktrousers:Ryan.Boxfarleftofwall

Greenpolo:Ryan.Boxfarleftofwall

CHARACTER BREAKDOWN

Husband + Husband ego, Wife + Wife Ego

- check shirt [not pressed, untucked]

- green chinos

- black socks

- desert boots

- brown belt

- wedding ring [left hand]

WIFE + WIFE EGO

- grey dress [not pressed, dress shields]

- black leggings [rolled to 3/4 length]

- chunky socks

- brown boots [check if zipped up]

- wedding ring

- silver necklace

If Wife ego is also playing O.S. Ego, then wear black bra

CHARACTER BREAKDOWN

Mum 1, Mum 1.5

MUM 1

- white top [untucked]

- black jeans [cuffed, slipstitched]

- cream bra

- gold earrings

- chunky socks

- red cardigan [check for fluff]

MUM 1.5

- same as Mum 1 except for red cardigan

- brown cardigan

CHARACTER BREAKDOWN

Mum 2, Mum 3

MUM 2

- same as MUM 1.5 except without cardigan

MUM 3

- same as MUM 2

- beige trench coat [buttoned up, belted]

CHARACTER BREAKDOWN

Dad 1, Dad 1.5

- grey jumper

- grey t-shirt

- denim jeans

- belt

- white socks

- white trainers

DAD 1

DAD 1.5

- same as DAD 1 without jumper

CHARACTER BREAKDOWN

Dad 2, Boyfriend + Boyfriend Ego

DAD 2

- same as DAD 1.5 except for t-shirt

- green polo shirt

BOYFRIEND & BOYFRIEND EGO

- white t-shirt

- brown cargos

- brown belt

- black socks

- white trainers [tie loosely or tuck is, as need to be removed for quick change]

- x3 silver rings

- silver chain necklace

CHARACTER BREAKDOWN

Older Sister 1, Older Sister 2 + Ego

OLDER SISTER 1

- green parachute pants

- black bra

- black crop top

- black zip-up hoodie [zip-up hoodie is worn half zipped and sitting off shoulders]

- black socks

- black converse

- black wool coat [lint roller]

CHARACTER BREAKDOWN

Mary 1, Mary 2

grey plimsolls glasses

same as Mary 1 without grey

CHARACTER BREAKDOWN

Child Soldier, Corrections Officer 1

CHILD SOLDIER

- white t-shirt

- camo trousers

- green trouser belt

- camo shirt

- green shirt belt

- black socks

- black boots

- {machete - props has}

CORRECTIONS OFFICER 1

- white shirt

- black clip-on tie

- black trousers

- black socks

- black boots

- black watch

CHARACTER BREAKDOWN

Child Soldier, Transition costumes

TRANSITION COSTUME

black coat [hood up]

CHARACTER BREAKDOWN

Stoning Costumes

STONING COSTUME: ASM Eleise, SKY, ASM Madina, KATYA

black coat [fully buttoned and belted, hood up]

STONING COSTUME: JAKE, RYAN, KEVIN

black coat [fully buttoned, popper at collar, hood up]

black trousers

SHOW NOTES

made by Erika Holland

REPAIRS

fix Sky coat lining both armholes

fix Sky button

fix Sky number and hanging loop

fix 2 buttons on Jake Stoning trousers

fix back of Corrections Officer tie

fix Corrections Officer trouser button

fix hole on Older Sister trousers + rip and fix Older Sister Ego trousers to match

Interfacing was applied to the inside and a tight zigzag stitch was used. The same was done to the other pair of trousers

Fig.1 Rip in Older Sister trousers

Fig.1 Repaired rip in Older Sister trousers

PRODUCTION NOTES page 181 - 186

CONTACT LIST

created by Maddison Whiffin

Instead of having a traditional contact sheet, for this production AUB trialed a 'Cast, Crew and Creatives' sheet with the idea that people could be contacted via their AUB contacts.

1st Production meeting - 5th October 2022

Costume

Schedule the egos to be with their relevant characters for their fittings on the 14th. The corrections officer will be played by Stina Rojestal from the This Changes Everything cast.

Fittings (on campus) estimated at 20-30 minutes per actor. (Plus roughly 30 minutes to travel to the URC.)

No costume needed for rehearsals.

Straight jacket for Mary? Arms must be free and able to move. Sliders for Mary have been changed to combat boots throughout. (no change) ASMs will be wearing blacks.

2nd Production meeting - 12th October 2022

Costume

options for Machete belt, green or black. Kwame will let costume know which colour. Check size in fittings.

The Machete is 45cm long and 5cm wide (roughly). On campus if costume would like to see it. It will not need a sheaf.

Floor will be similar to playground material (rubber granules).

3rd Production Meeting- 19th October Costume

production schedule on one drive - let maddie, erika and olivia know hood

cardigan earlier for stoning pre assessment get them all into their all black outfitd what costumes do they all start in??

book stoning mary seats tofay

content warnings for sm

REHEARSAL NOTES

5th October 2022

11th October 2022 ✓

13th October 2022 ✓

18th October 2022 ✓

19th October 2022 ✓

TECH WEEK PRODUCTION SCHEDULE

created by John Camble

REFERENCES

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Browne, P. (2013) With Accessory, Officers Looking Sharp and Staying Safe, New York Times Archive. Available at: https://archive.nytimes.com/cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/ (Accessed: December 8, 2022).

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Finn,C.(2022)“BritishMilitaryDress;interviewwithretiredsoldierPatrickFinn.” Finn,C.(2022)“'stoningmary'interviewwithcostumedesignerAnyaHobson.”

Idaya (no date) Life as a prison officer: HM prison & probation service, Life as a prison officer | HM Prison & Probation Service. Available at: https://prisonandprobationjobs.gov.uk/prison-officer/life-as-a-prison-officer/ (Accessed:December8,2022).

LauraM.SandsLastModifiedDate:November30(2022)Whatarethedifferenttypes of prison uniform?, My Law Questions. Available at: https://www.mylawquestions.com/what-are-the-different-types-of-prison-uniform.htm (Accessed:December8,2022).

MinistryofJustice.(2022).StaffAppearanceandUniform.

Owusu, K. (2022) “'stoning mary' introduction ,” 'stoning mary' set and costume presentation. 'stoning mary' set and costume presentation, Bournemouth , 30 September.

Smith, M.I. (2020) A brief history of the converse Chuck Taylor all star sneaker, A BriefHistoryOfTheConverseChuckTaylorAllStarSneaker|TheJournal.Available at: https://www.mrporter.com/en-gb/journal/fashion/history-converse-chuck-taylor-allstar-sneaker-icon-1276662(Accessed:December8,2022).

Smith, R. (2021) Men's 70s fashion trends you should wear today (and how to do it), Ape to Gentleman. Available at: https://www.apetogentleman.com/mens-70s-fashion/ (Accessed:December8,2022).

Top 20 clothing brands among football casuals (2022) footballcasuals.net. Available at:https://www.footballcasuals.net/en/(Accessed:December8,2022).

Willson, T. (2019) The history of the clarks wallabee, Mixmag. Available at: https://mixmag.net/feature/the-history-of-the-clarks-wallabee (Accessed: December 8, 2022).

(2014) War in the Central African Republic. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=VoQAxQgevEA(Accessed:December8,2022).

Behlen, B. (2016) History of the bomber jacket, Museum of London. Museum of London. Available at:https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/bomber-jackets(Accessed:December8,2022).

Bojrab, A. (2022) Boat shoes – For fashion or function? , Boat shoes – for fashion or function?

Available at: https://www.parkview.com/community/dashboard/boat-shoes-%E2%80%93-for-fashionor-function(Accessed:December8,2022).

Browne, P. (2013) With Accessory, Officers Looking Sharp and Staying Safe, New York Times Archive. Available at: https://archive.nytimes.com/cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/ (Accessed: December8,2022).

Canoe Club (no date) The history of Chinos and Khakis, Canoe Club. Available at: https://shopcanoeclub.com/blogs/editorial/the-history-of-khakis-and-chinos (Accessed: December 8, 2022).

Colours of mourning around the world (no date) Craven Funeral Directors. Available at: https://www.cravens-funerals.com/colours-of-mourning-around-the-world/ (Accessed: December 8, 2022).

Cowley,H.P.,(1782).Thebelle'sstratagem:Acomedy.London:T.Cadell.

Finn,C.(2022)“BritishMilitaryDress;interviewwithretiredsoldierPatrickFinn.”

Finn,C.(2022)“'stoningmary'interviewwithcostumedesignerAnyaHobson.”

Hebdige,D.(1979)Subculture:Themeaningofstyle.Subculture:Routledge.

Horton, H. (2022) Greenwashing UK fashion firms to be named and shamed by watchdog, The Guardian. Guardian News and Media. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2022/mar/11/greenwashing-uk-fashion-firms-to-be-named-andshamed-by-watchdog(Accessed:December8,2022).

Horwood,J.(2015)ThisChangesEverything.London,NHBModernPlays

Idaya(nodate)Lifeasaprisonofficer:HMprison&probationservice,Lifeasaprisonofficer| HM Prison & Probation Service. Available at: https://prisonandprobationjobs.gov.uk/prisonofficer/life-as-a-prison-officer/(Accessed:December8,2022).

Laura M. Sands Last Modified Date: November 30 (2022) What are the different types of prison uniform?, My Law Questions. Available at: https://www.mylawquestions.com/what-are-the-differenttypes-of-prison-uniform.htm(Accessed:December8,2022). MinistryofJustice.(2022).StaffAppearanceandUniform.

Owusu, K. (2022) “'stoning mary' introduction ,” 'stoning mary' set and costume presentation. 'stoningmary'setandcostumepresentation,Bournemouth,30September.

Pride,R.,n.d.TheCostumeSupervisor'sToolkit.

Rauturier, S. (2022) Greenwashing examples: 8 notorious fast fashion claims and campaigns, Good On You. Available at: https://goodonyou.eco/greenwashing-examples/ (Accessed: December 8, 2022).

Shange, N, (2011) for colored girls who have considered suicide / when the rainbow is enuf: A choreopoem.Bridgewater,NJ:DistributedbyPawPrints/Baker&Taylor.

Smith, M.I. (2020) A brief history of the converse Chuck Taylor all star sneaker, A Brief History Of The Converse Chuck Taylor All Star Sneaker | The Journal. Available at: https://www.mrporter.com/en-gb/journal/fashion/history-converse-chuck-taylor-all-star-sneaker-icon1276662(Accessed:December8,2022).

Smith, R. (2021) Men's 70s fashion trends you should wear today (and how to do it), Ape to Gentleman.Availableat:https://www.apetogentleman.com/mens-70s-fashion/ (Accessed:December 8,2022).

Top 20 clothing brands among football casuals (2022) footballcasuals.net. Available at: https://www.footballcasuals.net/en/(Accessed:December8,2022). tuckergreen,d.(2005).stoningmary.

Willson, T. (2019) The history of the clarks wallabee, Mixmag. Available at: https://mixmag.net/feature/the-history-of-the-clarks-wallabee(Accessed:December8,2022).

Fig.1 Page 33. Child Soldier DESIGN by Anya Hobson. Source: provided and created by Anya Hobson,designer.

Fig.2 Page 33. Retired soldier Patrick Finn training, wearing DPM, circa 2012. Source: provided byPatrickFinn

Fig.33. Retired soldier Patrick Finn training, wearing MTP, circa 2012. Source: Provided by PatrickFinn

Fig.4Page33. RetiredsoldierPatrickFinntraining,wearingDesertDPMwithBritishflagonleft arm,circa2012.Source:providedbyPatrickFinn

Fig.5 Page 35. Husband DESIGN by Anya Hobson. Source: provided and created by Anya Hobson,designer.

Fig.6 Page 35. Husband, Wife, and Egos – ‘stoning mary’ at Texas State University, 2016. Source:https://www.carlyconklin.com/stoningmary.[Accessed8thDecember2022]

Fig.7Page35.Husband,Wife,andEgos-'stoningmary'attheRoyalAcademyofDramaticArts, 2019. Source: https://www.isobelpowersmith.com/stoning-mary.php. [Accessed 8th December 2022]

Fig.8 Page 37. Wife DESIGN by Anya Hobson. Source: provided and created by Anya Hobson, designer.

Fig.9 Page 37. For Colored Girls Who Have Considered Suicide/When the Rainbow Is Enuf, 1976 . Source: https://playbill.com/article/look-back-at-ntozake-shanges-for-colored-girls-whohave-considered-suicide-when-the-rainbow-is-enuf.[Accessed8thDecember]

Fig.10Page37.MoodboardbyAnyaHobsonforWifefinaldesign.Source:providedandcreated byAnyaHobson,designer.

Fig.11 Page 39. Dad DESIGN by Anya Hobson. Source: provided and created by Anya Hobson, designer.

Fig.12 Page 39. Child Soldier, Dad, and Mum- ''stoning mary' at Texas State University, 2016. Source:https://www.carlyconklin.com/stoningmary.[Accessed8thDecember]

Fig.13Page41.MumDESIGNbyAnyaHobson.Source:providedandcreatedbyAnyaHobson, designer.

Fig.14Page43.MaryDESIGNbyAnyaHobson.Source:providedandcreatedbyAnyaHobson, designer.

Fig.15 Page 43. Mary in 'stoning mary' at Texas State University, 2016. Source: https://www.carlyconklin.com/stoningmary[Accessed8thDecember]

Fig.16 Page 45. Older Sister DESIGN by Anya Hobson. Source: provided and created by Anya Hobson,designer.

Fig.17 Page 45. Jumper designer by Rei Kawabuko, 1982. Source: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O73390/jumper-kawakubo-rei/[Accessed8thDecember]

Fig.18Page45KurtCobain,frontmanofNirvana,wearingChuckTaylors

Fig.19 Page 47 Boyfriend DESIGN by Anya Hobson. Source: provided and created by Anya Hobson,designer.

Fig.20 Page 47 British comedian James Acaster. Source: https://www.palhansen.com/latestblogposts/2019/2/27/james-acaster[Accessed6thDecember]

Fig.21 Page 47. Model for brand 'Closed' wearing 70s inspired 'sportwear', and wallabee shoes. Source:https://www.apetogentleman.com/mens-70s-fashion/[Accessed6thDecember]

Fig.22 Page 48. Corrections Officer DESIGN by Anya Hobson. Source: provided and created by AnyaHobson,designer.

Fig.23Page48.Britishmaleprisonofficer.Source:https://prisonandprobationjobs.gov.uk/prisonofficer/life-as-a-prison-officer/.[Accessed8thDecember]

APPENDIX page 191-192

APPENDIX

small makes, breakdown and running wardrobe on 'This Changes Everything'; hood-making workshop for 'stoning mary'; alterations 'Until The Sun Goes Down'; scribe 2nd fittings 'The belle's stratagem'; scribe fittings 'McQueen - the Maker and the Muse'