SANTORINI INSIDER _ 2019

Dear Guests,

Photos: Ben Wyatt

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elcome to Astra Suites! We’re glad you’ve made it all the way to Santorini. Now let’s get down to taking care of you while you take in the splendour of the caldera and Santorini’s incredible beauty, a chilled glass of assyrtiko wine in hand.

In the almost three decades Astra Suites has been around, we have lived and learned a lot. We have been privy to some special moments, countless wedding proposals, a lot of wine-soaked philosophising, romantic meals, sunset cruises to the volcanic islets, early morning hikes, and that moment when guests just succumb to the sense of abandon that Santorini evokes.

We love to see our guests, some of whom we’ve seen grow up, from around the world, calling Astra Suites ‘home,’ even if only for a few nights. Santorini, you’ll discover is an island with a rich, storied past, a vibrant present and a promising future. It is not just a destination for its geological marvels and ancient ruins, it has a thriving cultural scene and is the de facto the culinary capital of the Cyclades with its treasure-trove of indigenous produce and pioneering restaurants.

And then there is the wine!

At Astra Suites, our unique brand of hospitality, revolves around your holiday and your ‘me’ time. So, please feel free to contact the front desk, duty manager or myself if there is anything we can do to make your stay more pleasurable.

Santorini, you will find, has a seductive hold on anyone who has been subdued by its considerable charms. You may not realise it yet, but with this visit here, you are certainly putting your roots down. And creating stories and memories, each as heady as the wine fermented on the island’s slopes.

Managing Director, Astra Suites Santorini

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PEOPLE

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contents

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It all comes down to Service

A consummate hotelier George Karayiannis has elevated Astra Suites to being one of the most feted all-suites hotels in Greece

Art, Politics & the Psychology of Fish

In conversation with Yorgos Kypris on why art needs to engage in socio-political dialogues

LUXURY LIVING

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Aim for the Stars

Accolades from the industry and rich testimonials from guests make Astra Suites a coveted destination unto itself

CULTURE

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Akrotiri, the city under the city

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Retro Postcards

A city under the city, preserved in volcanic ash, offers a glimpse into Minoan living

A coffee-table book that chronicles Santorini's shapeshifting landscape through vintage post-cards

ISLAND GUIDE

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Publisher Copy Editor Graphic Design Cover illustration Client Relations & Sales Interns Photos Printing

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Sudha Nair-Iliades Elena Panayides Roula Koronaiou Daniel Egn�us Eleni Kalogridou Varvara Giannikouli Maya Abuali, Rebecca Sideras, Maya Iliades Christos Drazos Grafima

Astra Insider magazine is published annually by Insider Publications Ltd. located at Ermou 13, 166 71 Vouliagmeni, Greece Tel.: 210.729.8634, VAT: 099747145, www.athensinsider.com Reproduction in whole or in part, is forbidden except with the express written permission of the publisher. The publisher is not liable for any errors or omissions.

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An Insider's Guide to Santorini

Lefteris Karapidis of the award-winning Blue Shades of Greece takes you on a tour of the island

Santorini's Sandy Dreams

Cruising the coast

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If you’re looking to experience some of Santorini’s enchanting waters, look no further

Bella Aurora’s daily cruises allow you to experience Santorini as one should - with your hair in the breeze, sea-spray on your face

FOOD & WINE

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Sun, Sea, Soil

How the elements conspire to make Santorini a moving feast for the senses

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In a glass of its own

You cannot visit Santorini and not imbibe one of its crisp whites and absorb the island’s rich wine-soaked history

An expert distils Santorini’s wines

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Sophia Perpera on what makes Santorini a boutique, premium winemaking region

Where to dine in Santorini

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On Santorini, where flavours are born when fire meets water, trail-blazing restaurants champion an ‘eat-local, think global’ philosophy

Santorini flavours

Two recipes that celebrate Santorini's local products

Stairway to Heaven

The white-washed cubic minimalism of Santorini's stairwells

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IN CONVERSATION

IT ALL COMES DOWN TO SERVICE A consummate hotelier George Karayiannis has elevated Astra Suites to being one of the most feted all-suites hotels on Santorini. The accolades and respect from industry peers only validate the consistent effort, exacting levels of service and obsession with details that have gone into making Astra Suites such a coveted destination unto itself. In conversation with Sudha Nair-Iliades.

Photos: Ben Wyatt

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hen I speak to George Karayiannis, he was, in his inimitably unflappable way, trying to put out a few ‘fires’. Inclement weather meant that ferries had been cancelled, anxious guests and travel agents had to be pacified, alternate solutions had to be found, quickly and calmly. “The challenge with the hospitality business is that every day throws up a new set of issues.

Some you can foresee and respond to, sometimes nature has a way of imposing itself, not leaving you with many options. But what distinguishes a good hotel from a great one is how you handle these mini-crises on a daily basis, without the guest ever getting wind of the endless calls that went into his seamless transfer or stay.’

It is an attitude that has held him and his team in good stead over the last thirty years. When he took over the management at Astra Suites, there were just ten suites. Now it has tripled its size and there is

a private villa next door, complete with infinity pool and state-of-the-art fitness facilities.

George Karayiannis has been coming to Santorini since his teens and has seen the island transform itself into the powerful brand that it is today. “Santorini’s strong brand name will always help it. The images are etched into every holidayer’s dream. But as hospitality professionals, we have to implement rules that make Santorini more inclusive, more tourist-friendly. Some of those infrastructure changes are already underway – we will have a new airport by 2021, the existing port is being revamped and should be fully functional by 2020, but we need to see investments in roads, projects with a long-term vision of sustainable tourism.”

One of the other concerns is also making sure that the fragility of Santorini’s beauty and resources isn’t overwhelmed by mass tourism and that it attracts a more discerning kind of traveller.

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“Santorini’s strong brand name will always help it. But as hospitality professionals, we have to implement rules that make Santorini more inclusive, more tourist-friendly"

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Take us through your day.

I want to see the sun rise, no matter how late I sleep. After breakfast I come to work, I check who comes in and leaves, so that I can meet and greet most guests personally. After a quick lunch break, I’m back at my desk. Evenings are reserved for my personal downtime. I go to the beach, have a quiet evening with family and friends.

Why Santorini?

Santorini was the island I discovered in my youth and it became the island that I went to every year of my life. About 30 years ago, I had the perfect opportunity to come back and manage Astra Suites and haven’t looked back since.

How did you end up in the hospitality sector?

I grew up watching people pouring in and out of my grandfather's home in Parnassos, where I spent my summers. It was a large house, so often guests stayed overnight. There were lunches, dinners and meals in between! So, as a child, I saw Greek hospitality first hand. The true meaning of filoxenia.

What is your mantra?

When I got involved in the hospitality sector, I want-

ed to focus on service, not just a great setting and lavish amenities. One of the lessons I teach my staff is that service shouldn’t be commensurate to room rates.

Every guest, whether they’ve paid 200 or 2000 euros is a VIP guest, who deserves the same attention to detail and level of service.

How would you describe your job in one line?

I feel like a conductor waving a baton, giving instructions to my orchestra, and hopefully, having fun producing some great music!

First thing you see when you walk into a hotel: The smile of the person welcoming me. If the smile is authentic, not just professional.

What would be a deal breaker: A lack of respect for my personal space If Santorini is work, holidays are: On other Greek islands, winters in Bali or Australia. Nothing matches summers on a Greek island though. There is just something about it – the crisp air, the light, that makes it so special. But I can’t really say, I’m on holiday. Even when I travel, I’m constantly taking mental notes, observing how other hotels do things.

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Above:The view from the Infinity pool and caldera from Astra Suites as the skies get drenched in fierce oranges and soft pinks.

Right: An aerial view of Astra Suites clinging on to its flowercarpeted cliffside, offering spectacular views of the caldera

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I feel like a conductor waving a baton, giving instructions to my orchestra, and hopefully, having fun producing some great music!

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AIM FOR THE STARS Chiselled into Imeroviglis’ craggy cliffside, Astra Suites follows the Cycladic architectural design vernacular and overlooks the caldera and Skaros, a rocky outgrowth that was once the Venetian capital of Santorini. With its stunning views and outstanding service, it is no surprise that Astra Suites is currently listed in the Top 25 Hotels of the World and has twice been named Greece’s Leading All Suite Hotel.

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the Most Romantic Hotel and Best Service Hotel at the Condé Nast Johannsen annual awards, as well as been awarded gold for Excellence in Customer Service at the Greek Tourism Awards.The rich testimonials by guests at Astra confirm its reputation.

stra Suites towers over Imerovigli's flower-carpeted cliffs to transport you to Santorini's Venetian past, the magnificently stark beauty of the caldera, and its mesmerising sunsets. Imerovigli, as locals will inform you, is a quiet, peaceful village, with character, and with arguably the best sunsets on the island.

Since its launch nearly three decades ago, Astra Suites has wowed guests and hospitality industry professionals alike and has been consistently lauded with awards.

You know that when a hotel gets listed in the Top 25 Hotels of the World by TripAdvisor, it is not just doing something right, but something incredibly fabulous. It has twice been named Greece’s Leading All Suite Hotel at the World Travel Awards,

A FEW REASONS WHY YOUR SANTORINI EXPERIENCE SHOULD BEGIN AND END AT ASTRA.

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Photos: Christos Drazos

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VIEWS: Imerovigli’s perch at 300 metres above sea level, makes it the perfect viewing point for the caldera. At Astra, whether you’re on your suite terrace, the pool, your jacuzzi or the bar, you can admire the panoramic vistas of the caldera and Aegean Sea on a platter.

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Astra Suites is a study in sophisticated simplicity. The decor is refined, in hues of Cycladic blue and white. Whiffs of lavendar permeate the air; life-size, sculptural cactii grace the reception and poolside area. There is an air of unhurried, laid-back opulence. That same effortlessly elegant aesthetic spills onto the restaurant too, with its well thought-out, locally-sourced, inventive cuisine and beautifully plated dishes.

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The spectacular Santorini sunset is another reason you might never want to leave the hotel at all.

SERVICE: Its award-winning service is what distinguishes Astra Suites. Each guest is made to feel special not through over-the-top gestures but by letting each guest feel valued and cared for. The balance between being genuinely warm and professional is a fine one that George Karayiannis has managed to instil in each of his staff members. The staff here have been trained to respect the privacy of guests while being discreetly attentive to their every need. From the warm welcome at the reception, to housekeeping and the bar staff, the service is seamless and extends to the all-day, all-night room service.

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TRANQUILITY: Just the view of the volcanic islets should be enough to move you into zen zone. Add to it the fact that Imerovigli, described by locals as a ‘residential haven’, is the quieter part of the island. To really get into detox mode, enjoy the in-room massage service.

SECTION AMENITIES: All the rooms at Astra are suites, and all of them enjoy spectacular views. Depending on budgets, the suites come equipped with infinity pools, jacuzzi, kitchenettes, and with oodles of little things taken care of – from coffee capsules to wifi passwords and hair-dryers.

The infinity pool is spacious enough to accommodate guests and the pool bar is the your best perch for summer spritzes, sunset selfies and spontaneous chats with fellow guests.

The Astra restaurant is, like the rest of the hotel, a study in sophisticated simplicity. The cuisine is well thought-out, locally-sourced, inventive and a delight to the senses, and of course, it features vegan and gluten-free dishes too.

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SMALL TOUCHES THAT MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE: Astra painstakingly creates a very informative daily bulletin delivered to your room with weather info, suggestions on what to wear, visit or avoid!

Newlyweds get pampered with a whole range of honeymoon surprises – making you fall in love all over again – this time with Astra!

The attention to details is what is most seductive of a hotel stay, and at Astra, from Bvlgari toiletries to its carefully curated mini-bar choice, it comes shining through.

And of course, if you’re unsure whether the hotel can provide the service, ask, and very likely, it shall be delivered.

From in-room massages to English-speaking baby-sitters, Astra makes every effort to accommodate all your needs. It is very unlikely you’ll want to steer too far from the hotel, but do stroll along Imerovigli’s white-washed streets and its fragrant gardens to take in the beauty of an island that has imprinted itself in the souls of anyone who has visited it. You’ll soon discover that while its cascading bougainvillaeas and iconic blue-domed Cycladic chapels are what make it into Instagram feeds, there’s so much more depth and substance to this geological marvel of an island with its fascinating, layered history. www.astrasuites.com 14

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Its award-winning service is what distinguishes Astra Suites. Each guest is made to feel special - not through lavish gestures but by letting each guest feel valued and cared for. The balance between being genuinely warm and professional is a fine one that has been instilled in each staff member. Along with respect for privacy, discretion and attention to detail.

LUXURY STAY

VILLA LIFE A secluded private villa with every conceivable luxury to make your Santorini stay that much more special.

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Photos: Christos Drazos

n exclusive accommodation offered by Astra Suites is the ultimate private luxury villa experience.

A stunning property, ideal for two couples, a family or a group of friends and discerning guests who value privacy and extra space, Astra Private Villas is located at the entrance to Imerovigli. Just 500m from the main Astra Suites hotel complex, the villa is private yet convenient, spacious yet intimate, with unobstructed panoramic views of the caldera. The villa can accommodate up to four guests in two generous kingsized bedrooms, one of which converts into two twins if needed. Each room has a full bathroom and the villa also has a third guest bathroom. With an interior space of over 160 sqm and an outdoor living area totalling 320 sqm, the villa offers a spacious retreat for special occasions and family holidays.

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It has been our dream to design the perfect luxury villa retreat.

Consolidating our many years of experience in the five-star hospitality sector with valuable feedback from guests, careful planning, curating of ideas and meticulous attention to design and detail, Astra Villa is a sprawling 160 sqm residence with a 320 sqm outdoor living area!

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DINING UNDER THE STARS

Photos: Christos Drazos

The accent on refined aesthetics and subtle sophistication at Astra Suites find its way into its restaurant as well.

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acquainted with Santorini’s celebrated wines, and end your dinner on a sweet note with a sumptuous choice of desserts — all within just a few steps of your Astra Suites home. Alternatively, stop by the pool bar for a nightcap and let your magical evening continue.

Feel like amping up the romance? A gourmet candlelight dinner can be served on your own private balcony, or you can always order from the regular room service menu.

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stra Restaurant, as its name suggests, lets you dine amongst the stars and has established itself as a fine dining destination on the island. Its vaulted terraces, set high above the island, surrounded by the twinkling lights of Santorini’s villages and their reflection in its inky black sea, is reason enough to visit.

Its simple yet elegant menu of classic Greek & Mediterranean cuisine, with a distinct Santorini touch, adds another dimension to your Santorini experience. Savour local delicacies, get better

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ART

ART, POLITICS AND THE PSYCHOLOGY OF FISH

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In conversation with Yorgos Kypris on the nexus between religion and politics, and why art needs to engage in socio-political dialogues Text: Amalia Melis, Sudha Nair-Iliades

01. Entrapped Fish 02. Diving

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orgos Kypris surrounds himself with books, his art works, new works in progress in the workshop, and lately, beaten up plastic doll parts. He assures me that all of these objects have a reason for piling up in his studio, located beyond the Athenian suburbs in Kiourka. A day spent with Yorgos Kypris reveals an artist averse to publicity, the perpetual chasing of art critics and the finicky approval of the art world. He has a clear cut philosophy about his art, he lives what he believes in, making use of his time in his studio creating works to be displayed in Mati, the gallery he has run for nearly 30 years in Santorini, for private clients from overseas, Greece and from his birthplace, Cyprus.

In the lobby of the World Bank in Washington D.C., Kypris displays a large-scale school of metal fish symbolizing every country involved with the World Bank. His artwork is also displayed in places like Hawaii, Greece, Cyprus, and many other European countries. Having studied ceramics in Italy, he realized that he liked making small sculptures and eventually broke into larger scale works, such as installations, using diverse materials like glass, metal and oxidized steel. His award winning artwork has been exhibited in solo and group showings across Europe.

His Parallel Notions series displays oxidized metal concave beds, touching upon the four concepts that haunt him: death, loneliness, sleep and abandonment. Focusing on the sequence of the beginning and end of life, he tries “to individualize moments people pass through.” He explains, “My goal is to present the loneliness of the individual that exists in all of us; even though we live in groups, some situations make us feel even lonelier, like people in hospitals or institutions.

Society is all around them, but they are lonely nevertheless.”

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“The job of the artist is not to make decorative pieces, the job of the artist is to do his job,” he says, showing us exactly what he means with the artworks on display in his studio space. He is concerned with globalization closing in on us, “Whoever has the force of information gets his way. The Empire gets its way, ethnicity ceases to really exist anymore,” Kypris points out.

He also warns that “Greece is a small country, it does not influence other countries, most Greek galleries cannot follow the big art fairs abroad. It is important for us not to forget who we are… If one forgets who he is, if one does not respect old forms of art and architecture, what happens is he ends up becoming a victim to what happens in new countries.”

Kypris works independently, staying away from the glamour and the ‘to be seen in’ circles, doing work to fill the need he has to create, displaying his work in his own personal showroom and studio in Athens, and at Mati Gallery, Santorini.

Why Santorini? How could I not, he counters. ‘I have been entrapped on this island by its beauty. I was tired of trying to get acknowledgement from the cosmopolitan world.’

He chose Santorini because it moved him, in a simple way. He points out that Santorini was not Myconos, “One is the transfer of the other”, referring to the social microcosm of places like Kolonaki that seem to set themselves up on islands like Myconos in the summertime. In Santorini, he is exposed to international visitors to Greece, some of whom end up becoming loyal collectors of his work. “I have been lucky to come into contact with a public who appreciates my work, displays my work. People come from so many parts of the world, discussions with them are thought provoking,” reflects Kypris.

“Man’s behavior is of an aggressive nature, we are the

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“My goal is to present the loneliness of the individual that exists in all of us; even though we live in groups, some situations make us feel even lonelier, like people in hospitals or institutions. Society is all around them, but they are lonely nevertheless.”

Instantly recognizable are his famous fish art works, a subject that captivates Kypris, as he questions the nature of humanity, the separation of followers and leaders, the cruelty of human behavior and his own role in it.

01. Circural movement 02. Emigration 03. Cassius Clay 01

grand players; being at the end of the feeding pyramid,” he said, pointing to several of his fish works. His obsession with fish started in the sea when he was spear fishing. “A simple action, catch fish, cook and eat it, but one day I was struggling with an octopus who would not give in to defeat,” Kypris explains. He stopped the struggle and the octopus swam off. That moment changed him. He came to think about the cruelty of human behavior and saw how much a part of this he was party to. Hence, there came a series of Bonefish art works.

I look at fish as victims of human behaviour. We treat fish cruelly. What bothers me is just how insensitive we are. And now we don’t have enough fish in the sea. I am trying to sensibilise people through art as people don’t like to be reminded of death and destruction.

Along the walls of his showroom are many bird cages

from the About Cages & Flights series Kypris made.

“Actually, I started making the Beds series, but it was hard for me psychologically because I wanted to get into it deeply. Instead I found some cages, I worked on those for a while and that process allowed me to work my way back into the Beds series,” explains Kypris. Regarding the cages with figures of babies attached to them by cord, Kypris said, “Children: we prepare them to be aggressive, make money, don’t look at your personal happiness, meet our demands, power is money.” Is it possible to teach your child another way? Kypris seems unsure, as he continues to describe a world which is “becoming environmentally destroyed, the safety net of relationships is breaking down, power is never good and we learn to live with fear. Power tests us as humans, be it religious, political.”

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His series of Boxers was created in 2005, influenced by the greatness of Mohammad Ali, an important athletic figure for Kypris, because of “Ali’s great techniques and his stand against the racism he was up against.”

The Cuttings series are metal sheets layered and cut into figures using a laser technique. His themes are borrowed from media images, mostly in newspapers and magazines. “I make human copies, and create a monologue for our contemporary lifestyle and what we display,” Kypris said, also pointing out how influenced he was by Karagiozis, the Greek shadow puppets.

“I started in Santorini thirty years ago and I haven’t looked back since. For an artist to evolve, there has to be universality in what you do. An artist has to create a personal, elaborate language to communicate with different cultures.”

Now is a time of transition for the artist. “I am in the working stages of a new series and I am going back to my roots. I circle around the themes of human behavior, the nature of man, of artist, the sarcasm, the insecure nature of authority, brutality.” No doubt, Yorgos Kypris will emerge with a new series of works to explain the absurdness of human nature and the close relationship of artist and observer within all of this change.

His art work makes for an eye opening experience, whether he expresses the small silent role of being one in a school of fish, a metal cutting boxer, an infant connected to his ‘prison-home’, bird cage or a new landowner in the giant Astroturf property surrounded by a big metal cage. Yorgos Kypris asks us, especially those who live in urban dwellings anywhere in the world, what do we surround ourselves with? What does human development, with the help of technology and globalization, mean for our future?

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When religion dies what remains is the vest, it is decorated churches, costumes, rituals. I find the little shrines that dot the roads in Greece as iconoclastic exercises.

And in my mind, there’s no difference between politicians and priests - they both manipulate the masses.

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info@matiartgallery.com

EXPLORING SANTORINI

AN INSIDER'S GUIDE TO SANTORINI

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Lefteris Karapidis of the award-winning Blue Shades of Greece explores Santorini's rugged beauty and takes you on a tour of the island, unveiling its deeply-kept secrets, revealing an island shaped by its unique geology and history

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t may be the most photographed and photogenic island, but to really understand Santorini enrol with Blue Shades of Greece for an engaging, fascinating and information-packed tour of the island. It is not just facts, figures and dates, but also a lot of fun moments, trivia, hiking, sailing, shopping, wine-tasting and food-pairing.

Lefteris Karapidis’ Blue Shades of Greece crafts special tours to cater to different tastes and interests – from the sporty, outdoorsy tourist to the ‘thinking, drinking traveller’ and curious customer – to add value to your Santorini stay.

Create your own Santorini story as complex and structured as the island’s famed wines at one of Santorini's celebrated vineyards and discover all about Greek wine renaissance pioneered by Santorini's intrepid viticulturists through Blue Shades of Greece's wine tours.

Pause at Megalochori and Fira, archetypal Hellenic villages, with glorious views of the Aegean or Oia, with its terraced vantage-point; meander through Imerovigli to take part in a justly celebrated Santorini ritual, watching the sunset, only Blue Shades of Greece wisely suggest that you do so at sunrise!

Trek upto the highest point on Skaros and walk from Imerovigli to Oia, atop charred volcanic cliffs dusted with a snowy jumble of villages; take a cruise to get a different perspective of Santorini’s burnt facade or swim in the fathomless blue waters at the foot of the precipice. If culture is your thing, opt for the tour that covers Akrotiri, the archaeological site with an impressively preserved pre-historic settlement and the Prehistoric Museum in Fira.

For more info: blueshadesofgreece.com, Tel: +30 22860 25641

EXPLORING SANTORINI

AN INSTAGRAMMER’S DREAM The most evocative images of Greece are of white-washed, cuboid houses on a craggy hillside above a cobalt sea. Of houses with splashes of bright blue, perhaps mixed in with the odd windmill or domed church. Welcome to Oia, land of sunsets, selfies, summer spritzes and seafood restaurants.

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unset at Oia. One of the most famous vistas in the world. As dusk falls, tourists throng through its narrow alleyways with the synchronized choreography of a well-honed ritual, to glimpse the flaming fireball slip into the sea.

This stunning settlement perched on the island’s northern tip is almost a victim of its own success. Sunset is at the essence of Santorini’s enduring myth; the reason why this Cycladic isle of orange skies and white chalk houses is repeatedly voted Europe’s most popular destination. From the vantage point of the eateries and bars that line its clifftop rim at Oia, its success is embodied in the expensive tastes of patrons willing to pay for pricey cocktails and panoramic views. With growing demand for the spectacular backdrop for weddings, marriage

proposals and vow renewals, everyone is booked solid.

Almost all of the 2 million holidaymakers who will visit Santorini, lured by the beauty of a place transfigured by a volcano, will pass through Oia’s cobbled streets.

As if from a postcard, the church’s white washed walls and rich blue domes remind tourists of a Grecian fantasy. Dotted with homes and hotels hewn into its precipice in every conceivable hue from ochre to deep fuchsia, cobalt blue, oyster pink and earthy red, Oia is an Instagrammer’s dream.

Blue Shades of Greece insider tip: It is better to visit the wonderful town of Oia in the morning when it is still quiet, to see the most photographed 2 blue domes on the island. Avoid it at sunset.

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Oia

Photos: Christos Drazos

EXPLORING SANTORINI

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Santorini, known to Greeks as Thira, but named by foreigners for its patron St. Irene of Thessaloniki has been the poster child for Greek tourism. This inaccessible, barren land that time forgot, is now the most recognisable face of Greece.

Sunset-watching from Oia’s vertiginous terraces is a justly celebrated Santorini ritual.

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EXPLORING SANTORINI

Imerovigli V

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igla or viewing spot couldn’t be a more fitting description for Imerovigli as it offers the clearest vistas of the island and its famed caldera. One of the oldest settlements, this was where islanders gathered to keep vigil from marauding pirates.

Imerovigli rises to an astonishing 300 metres above sea level, with arguably the most spectacular views of the Aegean and its sunsets. To its right is Fira, bustling with tourists.

Smack in front, is Skaros, a rock formation that seems suspended between the sky and the sea, and the site of Santorini’s storied history, tracing influences from the Byzantine Empire, the Venetians and the Ottoman Empire.

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t is easy to see why this part of Santorini remains as coveted today by hoteliers and tourists alike. It is location, location, location. Imerovigli offers stellar views, without the frenzy, making it the perfect hideaway for couples. What is great about Imerovigli is that everything is within walking distance - award-winning restaurants, designer boutiques, terraced bars. Fira is just 3 kms away and for those who’d like to discover the island on foot, and soak

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in Santorini’s photogenic beauty, the trek from Imerovigli to Oia, is a picturesque 11 km walk, snaking through the island’s whitewashed alleys.

Blue Shades of Greece insider tip: Don’t miss the opportunity to climb up the mountain of Skaros to watch the breathtaking 360 degree views from it.

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EXPLORING SANTORINI

SUSPENDED BETWEEN EARTH, SEA AND SKY Skaro clings on to the rim of the island, where sheer cliffs rise out from the sea, and the famed volcano that gave birth to the island, is in full view.

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his impressive promontory that juts out between Imerovig- small harbour, and within no time Skaros was named the capital of li and the caldera is widely believed to have been created Venetian Santorini. Coveted by the Ottomans, Skaros succumbed through volcanic activity dating back to 68,000 B.C, further to Admiral Piali Pasha’s onslaught in 1566. A series of volcanic erupchiseled by erosion and earthquakes. Part of the 11 km walking trail tions from 1650 caused bits of the fortress to unravel but by the 18th from Imerovigli to Oia and the best vantage point to film the caldera, century, the combined impact of earthquakes and volcanic eruptions between earth, sea and Skaro as to volatile as its topography.

Skaros’ history is as rich and volatile as itsuspended fascinating topography. was sky, so strong destroy thefascinating once-magnificent fort. Skaros resclings on to the rim of the island, where sheer Recognizing its strategic value, Skaro was and fortified Recognizing its strategic value, Skaros was fortified by the Byzan- idents abandoned their homes and except for a few ruins, the cliffs rise out from the sea, and the famed by the Byzantine Empire in the early 13th century the tine Empire in the early 13th century with Venetian architect Giacomo monastery of Panagia Theoskepasti, there is little that captures volcano that gave birth to the island, is in full view. with Venetian architect Giacomo Barozzi supervisBarozzi supervising the construction. The initial structure, known as grandeur of this former capital.

This impressive promontory that juts out between ing the construction. The initial structure, known La Roka or the Upper Castle was completed in 1207. By the time the A painting by Thomas Hope in 1790 that now hangs at the Benaki Imerovigli and the caldera is widely believed to as La Roka or the Upper Castle was completed Venetian Republic took over Santorini in 1336, the settlement boast- Museum shows Skaros with its impressive fortresses. Today, Skaros have been created through volcanic activity datin 1207. By the time the Venetian Republic took ed 200 homes and several hundred inhabitants. A church complex, is accessible from Imerovigli and can be admired in all its magnificent ing back to 68,000 B.C, further chiseled by erosion over Santorini in 1336, the settlement boasted 200 the Chapel of Panagia Theoskepasti, was built at sea-level, as was a glory from Astra Suites.

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and earthquakes. Part of the 11 km walking trail from Imerovigli to Oia and the best vantage point to film the caldera, Skaros’ history is as rich and

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homes and several hundred inhabitants. A church complex, the Chapel of Panagia Theoskepasti, was built at sea-level, as was a small harbour, and with-

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Skaros

EXPLORING

A medieval hamlet that retains its timeless allure Pyrgos, once the capital of Greece’s most photographed island, evokes a different Santorini. A medieval Venetian settlement that has survived earthquakes and mass tourism, Pyrgos is the closest you’ll get to experiencing island life at its most authentic. Get your hiking gear on!

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ou know you’re in Pyrgos as the tempo suddenly changes from the frantic activity at the port and the bustle of Fira to an unhurried, leisurely pace, punctuated only by the sounds of village elders playing backgammon at the local ouzeria and of cats mewling for crumbs off the table. Time stands still as this majestic hamlet, perched atop the island’s most vantage point overlooks the sweep of history and natural forces that have shaped its destiny, as indeed that of Santorini.

The best way to explore Pyrgos is to hike from the main square dotted with century-old pines and charming cafes to the foothills of Profitis Ilias and up to the medieval castle. The mazelike structure of this fortified town, with its low two-storied houses and sheltered balconies, was designed to deliberately confound pirates and other invading marauders. The garrisoned hamlet had just one gate, locked at sunset, with 41

a sinister murder-hole or fonissa, which old-timers claim was large enough to tilt a cauldron of boiling water on itinerant enemies.

This impeccably preserved settlement largely escaped the destruction that the rest of the island suffered in the 1956 earthquake. It also survived mindless construction thanks to the zealous efforts of its villagers keen on preserving its rich heritage. Pyrgos affords a rare insight into life on Santorini before mass tourism and boasts some spectacular churches dating back to the 14th century including the recently restored Church of the Virgin Mary, handsome mansions, acclaimed gourmet destinations and iconic bars, art galleries and cafes.

Blue Shades of Greece insider tip: Get your hiking gear on. The best way to explore Pyrgos is to hike from the main square to the foothills of Profitis Ilias.

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Pyrgos

Photos: Christos Drazos

Photos: Christos Drazos

EXPLORING SANTORINI

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FUN AND FLIRTY Fira sits on the rim of a now-extinct volcano, with a sheer drop of 300m to a cobalt sea. As Santorini's capital, Fira is the entertainment, shopping, dining and nightlife destination, which stays up until the wee hours when the rest of the island lulls to sleep.

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the background, once the ships come and go, Fira settles into a more serene state.

Access to Fira, besides the road routes from the port and the airport, is by cable car or through a donkey path from the port.

A natural tourist-pleaser, Fira's stunning natural beauty, night life, and shopping, makes it the liveliest part of the island. Fira is also a great pit-stop to stock up on everything from Jimmy Choo shoes to designer swimwear, local Greek designer-wear, jewellery, souvenirs to take back home - from tawdry imitations to beautifully-crafted keepsakes for a slice of Instagram Island.

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Fira

he ancient island of Thera exploded in 1500 BC leaving a broken rim of a volcano, making way for present-day Fira. With its freefall into the inky blue Aegean, Fira justly serves as a backdrop to postcards and has served as the perfect catalyst to notch up likes and viral feeds for social media mavens and millennial influencers. Not only does Fira offer the most vaulted (and vaunted!) views, the abundance of its cafes, bars, and restaurants makes it an action-packed hub, long after sundown for the young and young at heart.

While tourists flock to consume everything in sight, pausing only to snap photos of themselves with the stunning village in

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EXPLORING SANTORINI Among Fira’s remarkable landmarks, the Megaro Gyzi Cultural Center presents a variety of collections and organizes several cultural events, concerts and theatre performances. The two beautiful cathedrals of Fira are also worth visiting.

Two exceptional museums - the Archaeological Museum of Thera and the Museum of Prehistoric Thera - are replete with archaic relics, an incred-

ible selection of fossils, artefacts, figurines, jewelry and more that tell the tale of the half sunken island from pre-historic to Neolithic times.

Blue Shades of Greece insider tip: Wander around the small narrow streets - great for people-watching, souvenir-shopping and dancing the night away.

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TIMELESS BEAUTY SANTORINI LIMITED EDITION SWISS MILITARY BY CHRONO Available exclusively: Devous Jewels Santorini

The volcanic island of Santorini and its memerising beauty are the inspiration for Swiss Military by Chrono, available at Devous Jewels Santorini.

The watches feature an automatic Swiss mechanism, crystal sapphire, ceramic crown, are waterproof at 500m with a diameter of 44mm and come with a written guarantee of 5 years.

Limited edition watches (numbered), available in black in 50 pieces and blue in 100 pieces, exclusively at Devous Jewels Santorini.

CULTURE

Akrotiri, the city under the city

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With its famed Minoan Bronze Age site, buried and preserved under the volcanic ash that covered the island in the 2nd millennium BC, Akrotiri hints at the rich civilization that once thrived here.

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t Santorini’s southern tip, in Akrotiri, you find ruins that hint at a great civilisation obliterated by natural disaster. Akrotiri is an extraordinary spot. This remnant of red volcanic rock, jutting out of the sea like a sinister broken horseshoe, speaks, as few places on earth, of nature's fury. Nearly four thousand years ago it was an isolated agricultural community. Locals scratched a living from the rich volcanic earth on the lower slopes of what - as it happened - was the last active volcano in Hellas.

In about 1650 BC, when the mountain erupted, the heart of the island was blown away. The sea rushed in, and after the cataclysm a huge tidal wave rocked the shores of the Mediterranean.

Seventy miles to the south of Santorini the flourishing Minoan civilisation of Crete was swamped.

For many, it was as though the world had come to an end. Reports of an advanced community disappearing into the sea became part of ancient Greek folklore. Egyptian and Athenian merchants, who suddenly lost their trade with Crete, reported an island swallowed by the sea. And so it passed, a full-blown myth, into Plato's account 47

of Atlantis.

There is poignancy to Akrotiri. The pioneer of its archaeology, from the 1930s, was Spiridon Marinatos. He was the first to propose linking the eruption of ancient Thira and the obliteration of Minoan civilisation with the Atlantis myth. Marinatos spent most of his professional life exploring Akrotiri. In 1974, by which time he had uncovered countless pre-classical treasures, mosaics and frescoes (now in the island's Megaron Gyzi museum), he was crushed to death on the ancient site when a prehistoric wall collapsed on top of him.

Akrotiri, his monument, lives on. As in Pompeii, a moving amount of detail is preserved beneath the lava. Christos Doumas, who took on the mantle from Marinatos, describes the settlement as ‘one with sophisticated urban planning, sewage systems three-story-buildings.’

Archaeologists, who have thus far, only covered 3% of the site, report fascinating details of technology, fashion, a language that was exceptionally hard to learn and existed in written form, recorded on dried fish-bladder.

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Photos: Christos Drazos

In some ways, it is that very cataclysmic eruption of 1650 BC that helped preserve much of the Minoan civilization, dusted in volcanic ash. If there had been no volcano, Santorini wouldn’t have existed, nor Akrotiri.

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Pieces from the Past: treasures from Akrotiri find a home at the Prehistoric Museum of Fira revealing how Thera's pre-historic inhabitants lived, worked, traded and buried their dead. The artefacts allude to a thriving community that engaged in trade with Europe and the Middle East.

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In some ways, it is that very cataclysmic eruption that helped preserve much of the Minoan civilization, dusted in volcanic ash. If there had been no volcano, however, Santorini wouldn’t have existed, nor Akrotiri.

Covering a sprawling 12000 sqm, the archaeological site is sheltered by a new bioclimatic roof and supported by 96 steel columns. You snake around the wooden ramps to peer through millennia-old settlements, and pause to reflect on how advanced Theran society really was. The Prehistoric Museum in Fira houses finds from the excavations - relics that reveal the everyday tales of its pre-historic inhabitants. Ceramics, kitchen utensils, marble figurines, pottery, bronze implements, and amphorae allude to a rich trading community. The star find, encased prominently at the museum, is a beautifully preserved, impressive gold ibex figurine.

The Archaeological Site at Akrotiri is open daily from 8am to 8pm (until the end of October) , Tel. (+30) 22860.81.939 The Prehistoric Museum of Thera is open daily except Mondays from 8am to 3pm. Tel. (+30) 22860.23.217

EAST MEETS WEST Fira, Santorini +30 22860 21816 www.character.gr

A NEW SUSHI EXPERIENCE

BEACH LIFE

SANTORINI'S SANDY DREAMS If you’re looking to experience some of Santorini’s enchanting waters, look no further. Known for its deep blue waters, beaches with white, red, or black sand, and volcanic pebbles, Santorini is home to both the strangest and most beautiful beaches one has ever seen. It’s coastline has been shaped and moulded by various volcanic eruptions that have rocked the island, making a beach-trip well worth the journey.

Vlychada Beach

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Photos: Christos Drazos

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Kolumbo Beach

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egin in the sun-drenched northern part of the island. Although most of the beaches here cannot be seen from the road, they have a wild, untamed beauty that has no parallel. Ammoudi, along the harbor of Oia, is a picturesque beach that hosts charming cafes and restaurants. For those looking for a quieter setting, the smaller beach of Armeni can be reached by boat from Ammoudi or by foot. Azure waters and magnificent

views of the island of Thirassia define this quieter haven.

You can also get to Armeni by a small footpath from Oia, although many find it difficult to climb up and down 286 steps. If Armeni is still not quiet enough for you, Baxedes or Kolumbo are less crowded and boast black sand beaches.

Fair warning: Kolumbo is mostly frequented by nudists!

On the south-eastern side of the island, magnificent black sandy and pebbly beaches abound.

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One of Santorini’s most sought after beaches, Perivolos is popular amongst the younger generation. Tourists and locals flock to it for its bustling beach bars and diving and water sport centers! Perivolos stretches out to merge into Perissa and Agios Georgios, creating the longest black sandy beach on the island. To the south

of the island, is Vlychada, with its grey sands and huge rock formations. Equipped now with a modern marina, it is home to the Sailing and Yacht Club of Santorini. Nearby is the beach of Almyra, a quiet but beautiful beach where sunworshippers work on their tans to the spectacular backdrop of the archeological site of Akrotiri.

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Ammoudi Technically a port more than a beach, Ammoudi is still a secluded swimming spot, or for those so inclined, for long walks along the coast. Descend the 200 odd steps from Oia to the crystalline waters below. A picturesque cove, its quaint waterfront cafes and restaurants hark back to a simpler, more traditional way of life.

Walk past the tavernas to chance upon a serendipitous diving spot - for intrepid swimmers, the setting couldn't be more conducive for an adrenaline high. Terracotta red cliffs, cobalt waters and rewarding views all around.

BOOKS

RETRO POST-CARDS Nowhere is Santorini's shape-shifting landscape chronicled better than in vintage post-cards from the past century. Dimitris Tsitouras’ coffee-table book culled from black-and-white postcards capture Santorini's stark beauty until the devastating eartquake in1956 decimated half the island. A collector’s item, Cartes-Postales makes for a wonderful holiday gift and a priceless lesson in the island's layered history.

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Few islands have undergone as much transformation as Santorini has in the course of the past century: its volcanic eruptions and earthquakes have given ample material to photographers to chronicle the changing facade of this beloved island.

Cartes-Postales takes us down nostalgia lane, to an era before tourists discovered this mysterious isle.

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topography, it is a historic account of the island punctuated by remarks from archaeologists, photographers, poets and hellenophiles. The 400 postcards presented in the book draw you back into a genteel, sophisticated Greece peopled by aesthetes and men of letters, who travelled across continents, spoke several languages, penned in beautiful long-hand – and left behind post-cards for posterity to offer a glimpse of what life might have been.

The book is priced at 50 euros and is available at all bookstores. Contact info@insider-magazine.gr to order the book at a special discounted price of 25 euros.

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esigner, collector and hotelier Dimitris Tsitouras painstakingly collates post cards from the mid-19th century to 1956 to reveal Santorini as it emerged from smouldering volcanoes and a ravaging earthquake in a 400page coffee-table book – a real labour of love. It is an ode to an island, long the beloved of Nobel poets George Seferis and Odysseas Elytis, as seen through the stark but telling imagery of its postcards.

The 400-page book not only offers a rare insight into Santorini’s rich cultural life from the mid19th century until 1956, when the devastating earthquake completely changed Santorini’s

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SUN SEA SOIL How the elements conspire to make Santorini a moving feast for the senses

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Photos: Christos Drazos

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ts blue-domed churches and picture-perfect architecture feature in every holidayer’s idea of an escape. But what makes Santorini even more appealing is the sheer richness and diversity of its produce. Drenched by dazzling light in the day, caressed by the Aegean breeze by dusk, nurtured by Santorini’s fertile, mineral-rich, volcanic soil – everything grown here has an earthy, hard-to-describe quality to it. Not surprisingly, most of Santorini’s products on market shelves today are registered as PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and are valued for their originality, unique flavour and premium quality. In fact, the demand for local products from around the world has shown a rapid increase in the past years.

Here is a checklist of Santorini’s famed products: 63

Cherry tomatoes Santorini’s crunchy, waterless tomatoes have an aroma and flavour so distinct, that ever since they were first cultivated on the island in the 18th century, it has become the mainstay of the local economy along with its local wines. The pioneering entrepreneur Dimitris Nomikos set up a canning factory in 1926 and at its peak, Santorini had as many as 14 factories, tomatos being the primary export of the island. So flavoursome are its sun-drenched tomatoes, that they've earned the moniker of The Red Queen.

White Aubergines This bleached variety of aubergines has all the goodness associated with the vegetable, minus the bitterness. Coloured white by the volcanic soil, it is a sweet, succulent orb of delight! Local delicacies include crunchy eggplant fritters and ‘melitzanosalata’.

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Come for its beauty, stay to savour its wines and fine produce

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The extraordinary diversity of Santorini's landscape makes it a natural pantry of extraordinary products - from its famed cherry tomatoes, to its tangy capers, split peas and wines, Santorini is celebrated as much for its gastronmic riches as for its beauty.

Fava It is believed that fava beans have been cultivated on the island for almost 3,600 years. Cultivated under challenging conditions in extremely rough terrain, farmers have to plough through tracts of land inaccessible to tractors. But all that hard labour pays off as Santorini’s volcanic subsoil gives the fava beans here a special sweet taste unlike any other. Apart from the popular fava served as a meze (split pea pur�e), local recipes range from fava with

pork or with tomato pur�e, as a soup, with rice or in an omelette.

Capers Fun fact: The capers you see in Greek salads and as garnish for fava are buds, not fruits, of this tenacious creeper that seems to make its way through a crack in the rocks, as indeed through walls. Capers are cured and pickled in brine. Its leaves, shoots and fruits also find their way into Santorini’s local cuisine.

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Seafood and Fish

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For a slice of authentic island living, visit the Fira fish market and discover the bounties of the Aegean. Santorini has been known since historic times to engage in fishing, though the fish were usually modest-sized. Local delicacies include Atherinopita, made with breaded white bait and ‘Santorini sashimi’ - Xelouristos cod, cut into small cubes and eaten raw with a refreshing tomato salad.

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In a glass of its own Thirsty? We’ve got you covered. Santorini is singular in so many ways, its indigenous grape varieties and wines are the toast of sommeliers and wine aficionados world over. You cannot visit Santorini and not imbibe one of its crisp whites and absorb the island’s rich wine-soaked history.

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Photos: Christos Drazos

Wine capital of the Cyclades Santorini has a unique, centuries-old history of vinification. Several volcanic eruptions meant that volcanic ash, lava, and pumice covered the limestone and slate subsoil, forming what the islanders call aspa or solid ground. A Santorini viticulturist has to be even more committed than his counterparts in less hostile terrains to really eke out the poetry from his vines – but the perseverance pays off in the form of some truly rewarding wines. Terraces using petrified lava stones have to be built to prevent soil from being eroded by strong winds, and to help retain the scarce rainfall the island receives. The sun, the wind and the lava work magically to ward off known ailments such as mildew and botrytis.

Its unique terroir, its volcanic soil, its harsh climatic conditions and its own distinctive way of pruning its vines - the ground-hugging vines here are coiled like wreaths or baskets, locally known as kouloura, to withstand the elements – all make for some great wine!

Know your grapes Although many of the wineries offer individual wine tastings, booking a tour and visiting multiple vine69

yards is the best way to truly appreciate Santorini’s wines. Perhaps the most celebrated grape variety indigenous to Santorini is the Assyrtiko, that produces the strong, crispy white wines that have firmly placed Santorini on every oenophile’s radar. It accounts for almost 80% of Santorini’s production, and is characterized by its mineral-rich, dry, bold, crisp, high-acid wonders. Decanter describes it as ‘an excellent wine to pair with food, aided by its pronounced savoury profile, stony minerality and citrus freshness. This unique Greek grape is rising from relative obscurity, with an insider cult following, to achieve a resonant new voice in the wine world.’

Enrol into Blue Shades of Greece’s wine tours and other equally appealing but hard-to-pronounce native varieties such as Athiri, Aidani, Mandalieria and Mavrotragano, will roll off your tongue with the ease of a practiced connoisseur! Santorini’s vineyards occupy around 3,700 acres of the island and is home to around forty grape varieties. Aidani, with its sharp aroma, is used along with Assyrtiko to add more punch and depth to Vinsanto. The raw, destructive power of a volcano might not usually be associated with the production of distinctive, high-quality wines, but volcanic soils have added plenty of character to

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For the past thirty years, Sigalas Winery has been a trailblazer in experimenting with new grape varieties.

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red varieties such as Mavrotragano, indigenous to the Cyclades. Nykteri is a white wine, which ages in the barrel for several months and has a high alcohol content. Vinsanto, a wine with a rich gold colour and an exceptional aroma.

Santorini’s volcanic wine trails Santorini’s barren landscape lunar-like vista is speckled with volcanic black rocks and its basket-shaped vine wreaths. Discover the lesser-known world of Santorini’s extensive wine routes through a bespoke Blue Shades of Greece wine tour. Distances between vineyards vary from 25 minutes to no longer than 45 minutes.

A short list of wineries to get wiser, merrier, stock up on Greek wine: DOMAINE SIGALAS is a boutique winery, with

refined, bone-dry whites that offers a glimpse into the rich dividends Paris Sigalas’ wine-making risks have paid. Plus the promise of an exquisite meal to round off your gustatory experience. www.sigalaswinetasting.com VENETSANOS WINERY, etched into a craggy promontory with an impeccably kept Mediterranean garden is a lesson in the Santorini’s rich history of Vinsanto production. The spellbinding views from Venetsanos’ terraces and the poetry of their Megalochori and Pyrgos wines make it a must-stop idyll for wine-lovers. www.venetsanoswinery.com ARGYROS ESTATE, a historic Vinsanto producer housed in a swanky new, modern, Cycladic-styled winery, try the aromatic Aidani, its prized, 20-yearold Vinsanto and much-acclaimed Santorini Vareli. www.estate-argyros.com 70

01. Venetsanos Winery, clings on to the rim of the caldera, carved in to the rock overlooking the caldera, just bove the port of Athinios. Its wines offer as much poetry as its views.

02. Argyros Estate, founded in 1903 by George Argyros, is now one of the largest estates on Santorini, with vineyards totaling 30 hectares today.

The winery continues the ancient traditions of Santorini in winemaking with the latest in modern wine technology.

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Its unique terroir, its volcanic soil, its harsh climatic conditions and its own distinctive way of pruning its vines - the ground-hugging vines here are coiled like wreaths or baskets, locally known as kouloura, to withstand the elements – all make for some great wine!

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An expert distils Santorini’s wines 72

Greece is one of the world’s hottest emerging wine regions right now, notes Sofia Perpera, of New Wines of Greece. She provides a masterclass in the Hellenic wine stars of tomorrow What has been the single biggest change to have shaped the Greek wine landscape?

Entering the EU in 1981 changed everything for Greek wine. Very quickly financial help became available and wineries began taking full advantage of the opportunity to invest in the latest winemaking technology, rebuilding wineries throughout Greece.

The second largest influence was that a new generation of Greek winemakers, often from families involved in viticulture, returned home bringing their winemaking skills to work with the rich treasure of native Greek varieties, and began experimenting and changing Greek winemaking.

What is the most popular newcomer on the Greek viniculture stage?

Which wines do you think deliver the biggest surprise to first-time visitors to Greece?

I believe that the white wines of Greece deliver the biggest surprise due to their mouth-watering acidity and expressive aromas: characteristics more usually associated with cool-climate wines from more northern wine regions. I always love seeing someone’s face when they first taste the bracing acidity and intense minerality of Assyrtiko wines from the volcanic soil of Santorini.

What is the Greek wine making industry’s greatest weapon in your opinion?

The large number of indigenous grapes, many which have been around since ancient times.

These grapes have adapted very well to Greece's unique microclimates. The native white varieties have wonderful acidities that go well with a variety of international cuisines and support the new trend away from the over-oaked whites that have dominated the international wine scene.

Which wine would you take to a dinner party?

Greece has been making some of the best sweet wines since ancient times – I’d recommend an aged Muscat or a dark, luscious Vinsanto.

Can you give us a best-value-for-money wine recommendation?

Assyrtikos from Santorini is similar to a Premier Cru Chablis, but can be had for a third of the price, although demand is beginning to drive prices up.

Recent Assyrtiko vintages to look out for: The charming 2012 and stellar 2011.

And finally, a good investment for collectors?

Whites from Santorini that can age at a minimum from 5-10years and beyond. Reds such as reserve Agiorgitikos can go for a decade or more, while wines from Xinomavro can go for several years developing layers of complexity the older they get.

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Sofia Perpera, is an Enologist and Director of the Greek Wine Bureau-North America, www.newwinesofgreece.com

Which countries are developing the biggest thirst for Greek wines?

The most promising market for Greek wine right now is the American market.

Millennials are now the largest wine consuming segment in the US. There’s no one better than the young, rising Sommeliers in the US and Canada to tell our story. These Sommeliers, who are always looking for something different and good, can offer their guests a wide variety of native Greek grapes.

The difficult economic situation in Greece has actually been a stimulus for exports abroad, especially in the US and Canada, as the wineries have been compelled to concentrate their efforts in export markets.

Greece is often recognized now around the world as one of the hottest emerging wine regions. There are some major varieties that have been leading the way, like the Assyrtikos from Santorini and other whites like Moschofilero and Malagousia.

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Santorini where to dine in

On an island where flavours are born when fire meets water, Santorini’s trail-blazing restaurants champion an ‘eat-local, think global’ philosophy 74

41 Forty One

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Housed in an old tomato canning factory, 41 not only reeks of character and cool industrial design, it harks back to Santorini’s past when tomato exports were one of the leading sources of revenue for the island. The cuisine here is an interesting twist on local cuisine with influences that stretch as far as Japan, Italy and the US! Try the delicately flavoured seafood risotto, the edgy tuna tartare with wasabi, or melt-in-the-mouth burgers. If you want to go local, the crunchy tomatokeftedes and grilled oyster are a must-try. Sink into their comfy sofas, take in the relics of Santorini’s industrial past and listen to live jazz and reggae bands for mellow vibes.

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Agaze Frantseska Tsempelis wanted to create a restaurant which had an inviting ‘homey, feel-good’ factor where guests would come for a bite, stay to chat with the staff, stock-up on Santorini’s culinary keepsakes, and take back memories of an unpretentious, yet refined dining experience. And she succeeds brilliantly. Everything at Agaze appears to be a seamless blend of taste and beauty – the decor here with its lush foliage, brightly hued chairs and cushions, vintage shelves is designed to be a balm for your senses after a hectic day of sight-seeing and people-watching. Add to it Pyrgos’ alluring charms and its easy to see why Agaze features so prominently on blogger feeds and insta memories.

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Character Playing on Santorini’s strong Venetian influences, Character’s Branislav Mladenovic cooks up a storm with the distinct taste and smell of Italy. Expect fresh, homemade pasta, oven-fired pizza, and other Tuscan specialties, elevated by the sun-kissed flavours of Santorini’s cherry tomatos, capers and white wine. With an enviable, unhindered view of the caldera, and its sensational sunsets, Character adds Italian flair to a magical setting.

An exhaustive wine list covering Santorini’s award-winning wines and an impressive cocktail repertoire make for a winning formula.

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Mario

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One of the veterans on the island, Mario has come a long way since its launch on Monolithos beach in 1982. Their local cuisine, richly inspired by indigenous produce and culinary traditions has been a draw for locals and tourists alike and Mario has now expanded its expertise into event catering. A great beachfront location, and its friendly staff make it a terrific choice for seaside dining.

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Selene George Hatzigiannakis has been helming the kitchen at Selene, arguably one of the leading lights in Santorini’s culinary renaissance, since 1986. Now with Theodoris Papanikolaou of Sense and Parla fame in his team, this restaurant that has consistently been awarded for its inventive cuisine, continues to push flavour boundaries. A beautiful arcaded restaurant in Pyrgos, Selene continues to host its hugely popular one-day and three-day cooking courses and olive-oil tastings by day and morphs into a temple of fine dining by evening.

The more casual Meze and Wine bistro downstairs has a meze menu that includes an excellent gourmet sandwich (â‚Ź5.50) of warm tomatokeftedes in mini pitta bread with fava sauce.

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©Ventouris

Naos ASTRA SUITES | SANTORINI

Rightly named Naos, the majestic villa that houses the restaurant, is a temple of period architecture, fine aesthetics and sublime flavours. A building of rare architectural beauty, the menu here pays homage to its precious heritage, infusing the dishes with local flavours and Japanese subtlety. The menu also reflects Santorini’s unique topography with dishes that have a distinctly ‘volcanic’ character - expect to tuck into oysters with ponzu and burnt melon pickles or home-made charcoal tagliolini with sea vegetables.

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RECIPES

Santorini flavours Two recipes that celebrate Santorini's local products, split peas fava and tomatokeftedes

Tomatokeftedes

by Iro Koronaiou

Cut tomatoes and scoop the flesh with a spoon.

Chop into small cubes and place in a colander with some salt. Leave aside for 30 minutes. Mix

the chopped tomatoes, onions, herbs, and feta cheese. In a separate bowl, mix the flour with baking powder. Add the flour to the tomato mixture, and shape into little balls. Rest in refrigerator for 30 minutes. In a pan add enough olive oil to cover the bottom of the pan, and heat at medium-high heat.

Spoon out some of the mixture into the hot oil.

Fry the tomatokeftedes for about 2-3 minutes on each side, until nicely colored. Place them on a paper towel to absorb the extra olive oil.

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©Christos Drazos, Nychteri restaurant

• 1 1/2 cup of tomatoes, finely chopped • 100g feta cheese, smashed • 1/2 cup red onion, grated • 1 tbsp parsley & spearmint, finely chopped • 1/2 cup flour • 1 tsp baking powder • salt, pepper and oregano for taste • oil for frying

by Iro Koronaiou

• 500g yellow split peas (18 ounces) • 1 red onion, roughly chopped • 1 lt warm water (3 and 1/3 cups) • juice of 2 lemons • 1/3 of a cup olive oil salt and fresh pepper Rinse the split peas with plenty of water. Add the split peas in a large pot with warm water and olive oil, turn the heat down to medium and season well with 83

salt and pepper. Simmer with the lid on for about 4050 minutes, until the split peas are thick and mushy.

Remove the foam with a slotted spoon.

When done, pour in the lemon juice and transfer the mixture into a food processor. Mix, until the peas become smooth and creamy, like a puree.

Serve the fava with a drizzle of olive oil, a tablespoon of diced onion and some capers, chopped parsley, or a dash of mild paprika.

ASTRA SUITES | SANTORINI

Fava with capers

EXCURSIONS

There is quite simply no better way to discover an island than with your hair in the breeze, sea-spray on your face. Bella Aurora’s daily cruises lets you experience Santorini’s charms in an elemental, deeply emotional way.

It works as a great vantage point to admire Santorini’s chiselled façade, battered by earthquakes and volcanoes that gives it its savage beauty.

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ASTRA SUITES | SANTORINI

coast Cruising the

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SECTION

DAILY SUNSET CRUISE THALASSA SAILING BOAT

Every afternoon 14:40pm-21:00pm (04May19Aug) & 14:15pm-20:00pm (20Aug-15Oct) from Fira Departure at 14:30pm (4May19Aug) & 14:00pm (20Aug – 15Oct) from the main port of Athinios

volcanic crater from where most of the volcanic layers are visible on the impressive steep inner walls of the caldera. (1,5 hours stop) Leaving the volcano, the sailing boat heads for the "Hot Springs" and their thermal sulphurous waters, where you can let yourself indulge in the naturally warm, inviting sea. (30 mins stop)

Board Bella Aurora’s authentic 28m long Brigantine "Thalassa" in the afternoon either at the Port of Athinios or at the picturesque old port of Fira and depart to the small port of Nea Kameni for a magical sunset cruise. Upon arrival at the volcano a guide leads you up to explore the rim of the

The sail boat then docks close to Thirassia, the second largest of the complex of islands forming the caldera, giving you the opportunity to escape into its crystal clear and refreshing blue waters. In the meantime, the crew prepares a delicious traditional Greek BBQ buffet paired with

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local white wine. (1,5 hours stop) Then, its off to the northern tip of Santorini and the town of Oia with its two small fishing ports Ammoudi and Armeni.

The sailboat is a great vantage point for photographing the lovely traditional settlement of Oia. The boat sets sail and heads back to Fira, to the sounds of live saxophone music, as the sun gently dips into the horizon.

A guide takes you through the island's history during the cruise.

Rate: Between 72€ and 82€ per person including guided volcano tour and entrance fee, Greek BBQ dinner with wine

Private day (10.30-15:00pm) or sunset cruise (16:00pm-21:00pm) The 18m long sail boat "Bella Aurora" runs private sailing cruises within the caldera with a capacity of up to 30 passengers. You can choose between a day cruise and a sunset cruise with stops at Nea Kameni and Palea Kameni from where most of the volcanic layers are visible on the impressive steep inner walls of the Santorini caldera. The boat then docks close to Thirassia, the second largest of the complex of islands forming the Santorini caldera, giving you the opportunity to escape into its crystal clear and re-

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freshing blue waters. There is also snorkelling equipment for more adventurous visitors. The captain and his crew prepare a delicious BBQ on board, served along with Santorini white wine. Post-lunch, there's a pit-stop at Oia and it's time to sail back by sunset and head back to the port of your choice (Fira/Athinios). *The duration of the daytime/sunset cruise is approximately 5 hours. *The price for up to 6 people is 900 Euro including BBQ meal, beers, water, soft drinks, local white wine as well as transportation.

For each additional guest, the extra charge is 110 euros.

www.santorini-cruises.com

ASTRA SUITES | SANTORINI

PRIVATE CALDERA CRUISES

Stairway to Heaven

Christos Drazos captures the white-washed cubic minimalism of Santorini's vernacular architecture. This tetraptych of stairwells reflects the clarity of the Aegean light, in stark contrast to the black volcano that dominates its horizon.

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