Insider 135 September-October 2017

THE CITY MAGAZINE OF

September-October 2017 Year 16. Issue 135 €4.50 ISSN 1790-3114

FASHION FEVER!

PEOPLE Mary Katrantzou, Christopher Bollen, Dinara Alieva GREEK FASHION SPECIAL Knitwear King Nassos Ntotsikas, What to Wear in Costa Navarino CITY LIFE Outdoor Fitness in Athens, the New Koukaki GASTRONOMY At Diane Kochilas’ Greek Table, 7 Super Food Festivals PLUS Insider’s Guide to Porto Heli & Spetses insiderMORE athens | 1 ARTS & CULTURE, FOOD & WINE, PEOPLE, SHOPPING, TRAVEL, WELLNESS AND

2 | insider athens

‘Does it spark joy?’ is apparently the key question we should be asking ourselves to declutter our closets postsummer, according to Marie Kondo, the Japanese ‘tidying up’ consultant. Who knew that this four word mantra would end up finding resonance in the fashion world too? Mary Katrantzou’s doom-defying creativity (adorning our cover this month) not only serves as an aesthetic antidote to bleak times, her compelling, psychedelic bursts of colour, print and weaves most certainly spark joy and scream exuberance. And she does so by morphing oftoverlooked banal objects like a stack of poker cards, baubles, beads, pens into a jubilant work of wearable art.

As we enter our sixteenth year, at Insider, I have struggled with that same question over and over again. Is it worth the strife of juggling cash flow, managing staff expectations, fretting over syntax errors? Does it spark joy?

It is a decisive, honest, and exceptionally personal question. And the answer is a resounding yes. From the incredibly passionate people whose stories we are fortunate to share – the gifted emerging literary star Christopher Bollen, Diane Kochilas, ardent campaigner for Greek cuisine, young opera talent Dinara Alieva or the afore-mentioned, phenomenally brilliant Mary Katrantzou - there is much joy being sparked.

Add to that the privileged choice we have of sharing the joys of serendipitous discoveries for a living. Of the approbation we receive from our readers, More joy.

Part of the quest for permanently being ensconced in a joy-sparking environment is of being more selective. Of engaging in a healthy exercise in self-reflection and a gentle but powerful letting go of the past. So, for our sixteenth birthday bash next month, you’ll discover a newly purged Insider, with a stronger sense of and appreciation for who we are.

Sudha Nair-Iliades

Publisher

Photos

Sudha Nair - Iliades

Maria-Irene Moschonas, George Savvoulidis, EFA archives, Jason Schmidt, George Miscamble

Editor in Chief Amanda Dardanis

Editors

Contributors in this Issue

Fashion: Michail-Alexander Passos, French: Anita Robert

Anna Roins, John Zervos, Eleni Zoe Papaioannou, Liana Scourles, Diane Kochilas

Client Relations

Founder

Krysta Foteinopoulou

Graphic Design Fokia Kitsou

Accounts Dimosthenis Therianos

Steve Pantazopoulos

Subscriptions

Reproduction in whole or in part, by any means whatsoever, is forbidden except with the express written permission of the publisher.

Bonjour Athènes published in French in Greece € 20, Abroad € 40

Although Athens Insider has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions it may contain. Athens Insider maintains a strict policy of editorial independence and preferential treatment is never guaranteed to advertisers.

Athens Insider published in English in Greece € 30, Abroad € 60

oth magazines in Greece € 50, B Abroad € 90. Also published in Chinese, Russian, Turkish and Arabic Prices include VAT and postage.

info@insider-magazine.gr www.insider-publications.com

Christos Christopoulos

Athens Insider is published monthly and its brand, logo and all editorial content is held worldwide by:

Prepress and Printing

Insider Publications Ltd.

Legal Counsel

Grafima

Social Media

Website

Caroline Pateras

Webolution

Athens Insider: Bi-monthly Publication ISSN 1790-3114 Code: 216548 Find us on:

located at Ermou 13 166 71 Vouliagmeni, Greece.

Tel.: 210.729.8634 Fax: 210.729.8634 Tax: No. 099747145.

Email: info@insider-magazine.gr

insider athens | 1

Amanda Dardanis

A print journalist for over two decades, Australian-born Amanda Dardanis started out at News Corp Australia where she has covered specialist rounds from news and politics; property and tourism; to crime and entertainment. In London, she held senior creative roles at glossy titles including Marie-Claire, Woman’s Own, and the Mail on Sunday’s YOU magazine. Since moving to Athens in 2009, she has written on Greece for international publications like The Times London, the Guardian UK and Australia’s Sunday Telegraph – and also contributes to local Greek publications.

Michail-Alexander Passos

Having obtained an MBA in Leicester University, UK and a Finance degree from Piraeus University, Michail-Alexander is a brand consultant & strategist with more than 8 years of combined experience in the fields of fashion marketing, branding and consulting. Having gained significant exposure in the Fashion Industry through his work and his studies at the London College of Fashion, he established Fashion Assured, an Athens-based fashion marketing agency in 2014 and in 2016 he launched his own fashion label, The Motley Goat.

Anita Robert Anita has had a long and interesting stint with the Swiss print media and in teaching journalism to budding reporters before moving on to a career in public relations for international organizations and public institutions. Anita is the editor of Athens Insider’s sister publication in French Bonjour Athènes and is the enterprising spirit behind the Refugee Food Festival in Athens.

Krysta Foteinopoulou After studying Broadcasting and Journalism at the Univesity of Wolverhampton, Krysta has reported live for the Greek public broadcaster ERT and covered European affairs and business news for the privately-owned SKAI TV. She has also contributed to several Greek sites and is now the newest addition to the Insider Team.

John Zervos

John Zervos, President of the Athens Centre, is Athens Insider’s chronicler of the city’s history. Using his own brand of erudition and wit to weave in and out of the present, John Zervos recounts anecdotes, reminisces of smoky rembetika bars and elegant Kolonaki women brunching at Zonar’s and tells the story of Athens as few do.

Eleni Zoe Papaioannou Jo’burg born, London-educated, Glyfada-based, Eleni Zoe has been writing travel and lifestyle content for online publications for a decade. She is the author of Hope Dies Last: Lessons in Love and the curator of the Instagram account Cats and Greece.

Fokia Kitsou Fokia is Insider’s graphic designer and a student of graphic design at the Technological Educational Institution of Athens.

Born and raised in Athens which she adores, her native city has often been the subject of her photographic essays. Fokia is passionate about travel, art and fashion and plans to further her studies in the field of fashion design.

Diane Kochilas Celebrity chef, TV show host and cookbook author, Diane has been at the forefront of bringing healthy, delicious Greek cuisine to a wide international audience for years. Her latest project, My Greek Table, a 13-part cooking-travel series about Greek cuisine airs in the US in October 2017. Diane runs the Glorious Greek Cooking School on her native island, Ikaria and is the award-winning author of 18 books on Greek and Mediterranean cuisine

Anna Roins Anna Roins is a lawyer and a freelance journalist who writes articles on social and community issues. She is also a regular contributor to AUTHORLINK, assigned to conduct interviews with bestselling global authors.

2 | insider athens

insider athens | 3

Digital Dreams

26 BOOKS

“It’s Frightening what Money Does…” 14 “It’s Frightening what Money Does…”

Rising literary star Christopher Bollen on the power of wealth and his passion for Patmos, the setting for his latest psychological thriller.

From the Shadows of War

14

17

Chris Cleave’s acclaimed new novel is a visceral and literary love story woven in war-torn London, writes Anna Roins.

MEMOIR

The Impossible Dream

18

Athens chronicler John Zervos looks back to 1994 and his bold theatrical efforts to support peace in Sarajevo.

ART & CULTURE

Sound & Fury 22

Sound & Fury

Soprano star Dinara Alieva sings the praises of her idol Maria Callas.

Lost & Found 24

22

Don’t miss this heart-warming documentary about human connections, made by the Athens International Airport.

GREEK FASHION SPECIAL

Digital Dreams

26

Fall into Line

30

Stitch Perfect

36

An Artful Touch

37

Greece’s hottest designer export Mary Katrantzou talks exclusively to Insider’s Michail-Alexander Passos about Brand Greece - and Brand Mary.

Fall into Line

30 4 | insider athens

Be “Best in Show” this Autumn with our stylish pick of the new-season Greek designs.

Get acquainted with the head-turning knitwear creations of Nassos Ntotsikas.

Can you live without one of Kaliston Art’s exquisite wearable style statements this Autumn?

Poetry on a plate

64 Classically Costa Navarino

Fashion editor Michail-Alexander Passos demonstrates how to master the elegant and airy “Messinia Look”.

“Everything tastes better under the Greek Sun…”

CITY LIFE

Koukaki Rising

46

Arts & Events

42

Fast Lane

6 20

Fashion 26

GASTRONOMY

City Scope

46

Join Greek cuisine’s most ardent ambassador, Diane Kochilas in her passionate campaign to awaken the world’s appetites for Greek food on My Greek Table.

7 Super Food Festivals for Fall

60

Sections

Eleni Zoe charts the exciting evolution of Koukaki into a taste escape for Athens’ fashionable foodies.

“Everything tastes better under the Greek Sun…”

Awesome Outdoor Exercise Options in Athens

54

38

Live the true Greek Epicurean spirit at one of these lively fall food festivals.

44

Gastronomy 46 Travel 54 Kaleidoscope

88

50

TRAVEL

Porto Heli & Spetses 54 Amanda Dardanis introduces the Greek Riviera’s classiest double act.

WELLNESS

Awesome Outdoor Exercise Options in Athens

60

Beat your post-summer slump with our list of the capital’s most inspiring open-air workout options.

Poetry on a plate 64 Simple, seasonal, flavourful fare with huge doses of sagacity, the philosophy at Cookoovaya is ‘not just about eating but of experiencing’.

Glyfada’s New King of Bling 66 Meet Athens Riviera’s swankiest new arrival, Blends, that’s dishing up neo-Greek fare with a side-order of high-art.

Cover image: Mary Katrantzou

insider athens | 5

arts&events

Vanessa Mae, October 5 THE ODEON OF HERODES ATTICUS Hear one of the world’s most acclaimed and commercially-popular violinists Vanessa Mae at the atmospheric Odeon as she presents works by Beethoven, Bach, Brahms and Vivaldi as well as tango, Indian and pop tunes, melodies by Vangelis and beautiful ballads.

Tickets range from €30-150. To book, email info@musicboxproductions.gr, Areopagitou Dionisiou, Acropolis.

Acropolis Museum Guided Walks, until October 30 ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

Van Gogh Alive, From November 7 MEGARON More than 3000 paintings, sketches and animated images of the great Dutch Master Vincent Van Gogh will shortly enliven the Athens Concert Hall in a major multi-media exhibition that’s already toured 35 of the world’s cities. The 3-D interactive showcase uses a vibrant symphony of light, sound and colour to effectively convey Van Gogh’s singular style and unique creations.

Vass. Sophias & Kokkali, www.megaron.gr 6 | insider athens

Who better to illuminate the fascinating exhibits at the world-class Acropolis Museum than an archeologist? Until the end of October, take advantage of one-hour guided evening walks through the museum’s exhibition galleries, led by an archeologist, in English. The tours – held every Friday at 6pm - are included in the normal €5 entrance price and you can register for them at the information desk located at the entrance of the museum. It’s a wonderful way to enhance your understanding and appreciation of this worldclass venue, especially if you’re hosting first-time visitors to our capital. The meeting point for your archeological host will be the glass floor on the ground level.

Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, tel: 210.900.0900, www. theacropolismuseum.gr/en

Marcelo Ricardo Zeballos Until October 19 MAMUSH GALLERY The fairer sex take the spotlight for international Argentinean artist Marcelo Ricardo Zeballos in his colour-soaked and Warhol-esque new Athens exhibition “Mujeres”, fresh from a successful run in Buenos Aires.

Panagitsas 3, Kifisia, tel: 210.623.2900, www.manushgallery.com

Emotions, until November 19 ACROPOLIS MUSEUM Following its huge success at the Onassis Cultural Center in New York, this compelling exhibition on how the ancients expressed their emotions through art in their personal, social and political lives is now showing at the Acropolis Museum. Exhibits from the world’s greatest museums tell stories of emotions in ancient Greek art through the gaze of the Acropolis Museum. Many of the exhibits are on display in Greece for the first time. Entrance is €3.

Ground Floor, Dionisiou Areopagitou 15, tel: 210.900.0900, www.theacropolismuseum.gr

Odysseys , October 3-31 NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM A riveting account of man’s adventurous journey through time that draws its inspiration from the mythological epic of the Homeric Odyssey. The new exhibition, framed from an abstract and symbolic perspective, is the keystone event to mark the National Archeological Museum’s 150th anniversary. Contemplate man’s incessant endeavour to tame his environment, conquer new places, broaden his horizons, establish well-governed societies and fight against the perishable nature of his existence with the aid of love and creativity.

Patission 44, Athens, tel: 213.214.4800, www.namuseum.gr insider athens | 7

arts&events

Maritsa Travlou Ceramic Sculpture – October 5-November 19 BENAKI MUSEUM Make a date to see the colour-popping ceramic creations of Maritsa Travlou in her first retrospective exhibition featuring around 500 of the artist’s marine-themed sculptures from the past three decades.

Travlou’s joyful pieces are mainly made of porcelain and stoneware, and are tightly linked to the visual reality and the infinite sea world. Her three-dimensional ceramic “Fishes” and her compelling “Sea Urchines”, transport viewers to the enchantment of the seabed’s silence.

Meanwhile, the sensation of eternal life arises from her delicate fish installations. Travlou’s overall work manifests an enhanced sense of texture and color, intensity and passion, declaring the splendor of life.

Maritsa Travlou (1990-2017), Pireos 138, tel: 210.345.3111, www.benaki.gr

8 | insider athens

Paris-Athenes by Jean-Paul Gaultier, until November 18 benaki MUSEUM France’s bad boy of fashion, Jean-Paul Gaultier loans his hautecouture collection to the Benaki Museum in Athens. Inspired from his spring-summer 2006 collection “Tribute to Greece,” the exhibition Paris-Athens, is on display at the museum’s main building, next to costumes that have inspired the French fashion designer. Open on Wednesdays to Fridays from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Thursdays and Saturdays from 9 a.m. to midnight and Sundays from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Admission costs 7 euros, while guided tours are available. Benaki Museum, 1 Koumbari & Vassilissis Sofias,tel 210.367.1000, www.benaki.gr

insider athens | 9

arts&events

23rd Athens International Film Festival (AIFF) September 20-October 2 VARIOUS VENUES After enjoying movies under the stars all summer, get ready for a film bonanza at the Athens International Film Festival. Featuring over 100 of the most engaging feature films from all over the world in various competition sections, special tributes, documentaries and more than 60 homegrown shorts. As a finale, book your front row seat on October 2 for Darren Aronofsky’s latest thriller “Mother” (starring Jennifer Lawrence and Michelle Pfieffer) which shocked audiences at Cannes.

For venues and screening times, visit www.en.aiff.gr

Carmen. October 10 THE ODEON OF HERODES ATTICUS Another chance to see Antonio Gades’ criticallyacclaimed flamenco version of Carmen, which first debuted in Paris in 1983.

With choreography by the late great Spanish dancer and film director Carlos Aura, the production has been roundly praised for drawing out the purity of the raw emotions of the main protagonists the naïve soldier Don José, the fiery gypsy Carmen, and the glamorous matador Escamillio. Tickets cost €28-78 and can be purchased online at www. viva.gr or by calling 11876.

Areopagitou Dionisiou, Acropolis.

10 | insider athens

9th Greece Race for Cure. October 1 ZAPPEION Run (or walk) for a brilliant cause at one of the world’s most high-profile and successful breast cancer fundraising events – the Susan G. Komen Race for the Cure®. This year’s Athens event is being facilitated by the Hellenic Association of Women with Breast Cancer “Alma Zois”. The routes will be two, 5 km and 2 km respectively. Start time is 9am.

Zappeion - Leof. Vasilissis Olgas, Athens, tel: 210.881.5444, www.greecerace.gr

Spetses Mini Marathon.

October 7-8 SPETSES HARBOUR Join in the excitement and buzz of one of Spetses’ most popular annual sporting events as 6,000+ participants join just as many visitors for a series of running and swimming events (3K and 5K). There are a number of kids’ athletic events too. Each course and event is planned to highlight the Saronic Gulf island’s remarkable natural, cultural and architectural beauty.

For more information, visit www.spetsesmarathon.com

Sally Cookson’s Peter Pan. October 1 MEGARON Celebrated theatre director Sally Cookson has turned J.M. Barrie’s melancholy fairytale Peter Pan on its head with a wonderfullyinventive and topsy-turvy production, to be screened in Athens for one matinee performance only. In Cookson’s audacious repackaging, which debuted at Bristol’s famous Old Vic four years ago, Neverland is a graffiti-splashed urban jungle where Peter Pan pedals about on a Chopper bike to the sounds of Reggae and The Carpenters and his Lost Boys scavenge for tin cans.

Oh and there’s a female Captain Hook! Tickets cost €15 (€8 for children, students and unemployed) through www.megaron.gr or tel: 210.728.2367.

Alexandra Trianti Hall, Vass. Sophias & Kokkali, www.megaron.gr

insider athens | 11

Art & Culture

“Athens 1917: Through the eyes of the Army of the Orient” A nostalgic new photographic display at the Benaki organized by the French School at Athens with images from previously untapped French archives turns back the clock one century to capture a lost chapter in Athens’ eventful history.

A

young lad of about 11, in a soldier’s helmet, perches barefoot upon a broken marble pillar at the Parthenon, and chats up a smiling lass in a white bonnet. A young peasant woman in a torn dress hefts a large water urn on her shoulders as she climbs a ruined path in Anafiotika nearby.

The exhibition, organized by the French School at Athens with the Benaki Museum, is comprised of photographs taken by two French military photographers, who both served with the French expeditionary force (Armée d’Orient), originally based in Thessaloniki during the First World War. The displayed material is kept today in Paris (Établissement de Communication et de Production Audiovisuelle de la Défense, Médiathèque de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine).

These stunning and rare black and white images of 1917 Athens, now displayed for the first time in Greece, are a riveting keyhole into a lost era.

The exhibition illuminates the forgotten neighborhoods of our capital, street scenes from everyday life, while also revealing districts that have disappeared thanks to urban changes, or archaeological excavations. The rich visual archive documents through the eyes of these foreign soldiers their many sources of interest and inspiration drawn from a pre-Instagram world of 1917 Athens.

info Experience “Athens 1917: Through the eyes of the Army of the Orient” at the Benaki Museum, Pireos Annexe, Piraeus 138, from September 15 until November 12. Tickets are €7, www.benaki.gr, www.athens2017.efa.gr/fr

12 | insider athens

© SPCA/ECPAD

© Min. de la culture (France)/MAP/Diffusion RMN-GP

© Min. (France)/MAP/Diffusion RMN-GP

insider athens | 13

“It’s frightening what money does…”

14 | insider athens

Christopher Bollen by Jason Schmidt

Interview

Emerging literary star Christopher Bollen talks to Amanda Dardanis about his great passion for Patmos, the legacy of childhood friendships, and the power that extreme wealth wields over us.

“T

here’s nothing more delusional than a tourist who hates other tourists,” declares Christopher Bollen, the man billed as the next Patricia Highsmith. Or Graham Greene. Or F. Scott Fitzgerald. Depending on which glowing review you’ve just read.

A beat later, Bollen’s self-deprecating laugh bounces down the line from Manhattan. “But that’s exactly what I am!”

We’re talking about the three consecutive summers that the author spent on Patmos researching his latest novel, The Destroyers.

A suspenseful psychological thriller, with the feel of a modern-day The Talented Mr. Ripley, the book is cast on the famous island of Revelations. Bollen’s long sojourn there, enjoying the hospitality and tutelage of locals and sybarites, has understandably left him feeling rather possessive of the island Forbes magazine once crowned as among the world’s “top ten idyllic places to live”.

“If I had a summer house in Patmos, I’d be in heaven,” he concurs.

“Patmos is so special because it’s hard to get to. It kind of curbs a lot of the greener tourists. But, sometimes you’d see a triple-decker ferry boat going by and think, ‘Oh God, they found me!’

With the release of this, his stylish third novel, the 41-year-old New Yorker with the preternaturally boyish visage, has elevated the psychological thriller beyond potboiler status and into the literary realm.

For Greek islomaniacs, The Destroyers bubbles over with gorgeously descriptive passages about Patmos, like this one: “Red bougainvillea cracks from alleys and creeps along the sides of stores, its flowers a fluttering parrot red that jars the sleepless and the slept.”

Meanwhile, the plot sees two loosely-estranged childhood friends Charlie and Ian, both born into a world of privilege, reunited on Patmos after Ian finds himself suddenly penniless. In need of a lifeline, he reaches out to his former school chum who runs a shipping enterprise in Greece.

There’s lots of luxury yacht-and-bed-hopping, and beautiful but rudderless people behaving badly before an underlying darkness emerges in paradise and within Bollen’s wealthy cast of players.

Like F. Scott Fitzgerald, this Ohio-born scribe inhabits the same gilded world - professionally at least - that he writes about so convincingly.

Bollen is editor-at-large at Interview magazine, the iconic celebrity bible founded by Andy Warhol in the late 60s. His lengthy tenure there has brushed him up against some of his own literary idols including Norman Mailer, Toni Morrison and Robert Altman.

In conversation, Bollen is not the jaded urbanite one might anticipate.

Instead, this Catholic-school-educated-turned-atheist is an appealing convergence of knowing chronicler and wide-eyed enthusiast. Insider caught up with the talented emerging writer to discover more about his literary inspirations and the origins of his fascination with Greece:

“

If I had a summer house in Patmos, I’d be in heaven

Tell us about your Patmos Connection? How did the island first make itself known to you?

I’d always been fascinated by Patmos. So many of the ideas we have about the destruction of the world stem from there. I grew up at a Catholic Boys School where there was an entire unit on the Book of Revelations. Which when you’re a teenage boy made to study the bible is everyone’s favourite book!

But then from my magazine and art world life in New York, I kept hearing from rich European jetsetters that they were going to Patmos.

These people seemed to have great lives and great taste. But I kept thinking, how on earth are these two realities overlapping?

First-time visitors to Patmos often attest that the island leaves a powerful imprint on them. Was that your experience?

Absolutely. Most Greek islands have some kind of epic history or mythology: this is where Apollo came down or where Leda was kidnapped. But here was a Christian island. And even though I’m now an atheist, there was this tangible New World feeling in the midst of all that antiquity.

What is the island’s biggest charm for you?

Patmos is such a small island and yet it’s a bit like Manhattan. There are different scenes. There’s the Chora side which is definitely fashionable and you can’t go ten feet without running into someone from New York. But then there’s this other side of Patmos in the north around Kampos where it’s basically farmland and it’s so quiet and you don’t feel like you’re trapped in some kind of beautiful Louis Vuitton store set.

From Byron to Leigh Fermor and Durrell, what is it about Greece that makes it such a compelling literary backdrop?

Greece has such fundamental beauty with the simplest palette that it doesn’t need to over-decorate at all. While I love Italy, compared to Greece, it can feel ornate and overly-decorative. And I do feel like there’s a weird psychological vibration in Greece. It really makes you feel connected to civilization.

“The Destroyers” refers to a boyhood game that Charlie and Ian used to play – but it seems there’s also a strong “Great Gatsby” subtext about the vast carelessness of the moneyed class and how “they smash things up”.

Definitely. It’s been said that money is its own country. There’s this illusion that wealth protects you. But in a heartbeat it can be taken from you.

Did you have any Gatsby-esque experiences of your own while researching your novel on Patmos?

On my third visit, I was at a dinner party and I posed the question, “If you have a nice yacht, can you travel to Turkey without your boat being searched or having to go through customs?” An Italian billionaire there offered to take me the next day. I’m sure we were sailing through at

insider athens | 15

“

Whenever I go to Greece, I feel like I’ve stripped down to some kind of pure living and I love it.

the same time as many other boats that were stopped. If you looked like you’d come from the Middle East, you’d be stopped and stripped.

It’s frightening what money does.

How does the Greek refugee crisis fit into your narrative framework? Did it personally touch you?

There was something about doing research in Patmos in the summer of 2015 that was upsetting. It did make me feel like “How dare I even write this book on rich people?” But every time you go on a holiday, if you dig down deep enough, you’ll find the inequality in life. There’s the indulgence of a vacation, when you’re swimming in waters and jumping off of yachts and having this great time and it’s the same water that only miles away people are swimming in with only the shirts on their backs to escape. When those situations happen, when extreme luxury and extreme poverty and desperation come right up against each other, you can’t help feeling that the world has gone crazy.

You’ve been likened to some pretty lofty literary names. Is that kind of comparison help or hindrance to the creative process?

I find it extremely flattering when it’s positive. Until someone says, “Oh, they’re not living up to them”. I’m honoured to have any of those names put anywhere near mine. Especially Patricia Highsmith. The Talented Mr. Ripley was such an influence for me that I had to check myself often to steer this story in the other way. It’s such a beautiful book and I think it may well be the Great American novel. I just love the idea of taking over someone else’s life so completely.

Even though writers like Donna Tartt have paved the way, is there still some suspicion around the “literary thriller” genre?

People don’t like it if they can’t completely categorise you. I have so many friends – friends mind you – who say, “Oh gosh, sorry, but I don’t read thrillers”. On the other hand, there’s people who love mysteries but don’t love the fat of philosophical thought.

Like Ian and Charlie, you went to a Catholic boys school. Do you think these type of all-consuming childhood friendships have a shelf-life?

Secretly, perhaps, we resent people who’ve seen us at our weakest.

They know where you came from and what your parents did or how often you got beaten up or bullied. But you never fully want to let go.

There’s a weird magnetic pull that’s hard to break.

Will you return to Greece?

Absolutely. Greece has really managed, in the up and downs of its economy, to keep its identity. Whenever I go to Greece, I feel like I’ve stripped down to some kind of pure living and I love it.

16 | insider athens

Patmos Christopher Bollen in Patmos by George Miscamble

Book Nook

From the Shadows of War

Chris Cleave’s latest acclaimed work is a sumptuous and visceral literary love story that encompasses the brutal Siege of Malta, war-torn London and a less-than-salubrious chapter in Britain’s war history, writes Anna Roins.

N

ew York Times best-selling author, Chris Cleave, was inspired by his grandfather, Captain David Hill, when he wrote Everyone Brave Is Forgiven (2016).

Captain Hill, a survivor of the Siege of Malta, met up with his fiancé, Mary (Cleave’s grandmother) only nine times before they were separated by the Second World War. For three and a half years, they exchanged hundreds of letters and telegrams, written on anything from fancy stationery, to scrap paper and even the back of a theatre programme.

“I wanted to find a way to show this universal bravery coming into play, and I realised I could do it by using characters from my family – people I love.”

Reading passages of Cleave’s prose is like hearing a crystal bell.

Highly articulate and instinctive, his sumptuous writing wraps itself around top-octave plots which may require a moment of pause. Or in my case, to grab a tissue. The repartee between the characters glitters with sparse English humour and things left unsaid. Cleave likes to win space for his protagonists to talk in a way that advances their character rather than the plot. It makes what happens to them even more compelling.

The novel opens in September 1939 with Mary North, the privileged daughter of an English MP who abandons finishing school in Switzerland to offer her services for the war effort. When she reaches London, to her disappointment, she is assigned to a teaching position across the city rather than some daring and adventurous post for which she was hoping. Here she meets a little boy called Zachary that changes her life forever.

During Cleave’s rather intense, ‘method’ research, he made a remarkable discovery. He (Cleave) found that white children were predominantly evacuated to the country for safety during the war,

while the black or disabled children were left in the city. He felt this had been written out of the version of history he was taught at school and chose to feature this endemic racism “as he found it, including the use of the foul racist epithets in vogue at the time, sparing the reader nothing”.

Soon Mary’s path crosses with Tom’s, a thoughtful and gentle man who has elected not to go to war but administer to “twenty mothballed schools” instead. A romance blooms between them until one day, on a double date with her peppery best friend, Hilda, Mary meets Tom’s dashing flatmate-in-uniform, Alistair.

This dazzling story follows the lives of the four friends until the middle of 1942, as it moves from the harrowing Siege of Malta, where men faced starvation and daily attacks, to war-torn London, where Mary battles to teach underprivileged children, with just as much valour.

Chris Cleave is the author of Incendiary (2005), published in twenty countries and adapted as a feature film starring Ewan McGregor.

His second novel, Little Bee: A Novel (2008) (also known as The Other Hand) for which he was short-listed for a Costa Award, has found phenomenal success world-wide.

Courage, loyalty and love are re-defined in Cleave’s latest novel, Everyone Brave is Forgiven, a literary epic love story with a sequel on the way, Everything Sad is Forgotten, due to be published next year.

info Everyone Brave is Forgiven (Simon & Schuster) is available at Public www.public.gr

“

He found that white children were predominantly evacuated to the country for safety during the war, while the black or disabled children were left in the city.

insider athens | 17

Sarajevo-Grbavica

The Impossible Dream In this vivid diary extract, Athens chronicler John Zervos recounts the three days in January 1994 when he and the great theatre director Nikos Koundouris made the impossible possible – and transformed Greek border soldiers’ lives with music and ancient melodrama in a poignant cry for peace for Sarajevo and the world.

T

he horrific events in Yugoslavia - the relentless shelling of Sarajevo - dominated the Balkans, leading to the breakup of Yugoslavia, the emergence of new countries and a realization that civil wars are the starkest example of how religious fanaticism ends in mindless human sacrifice.

To mark the end of the conflict, the EU proposed that each European country organise a cultural event on the same day and at the same time.

It was to be called a 'Cry for Peace'.

I had an idea to do a production of The Sophocles tragedy Antigone on the Greek Border with FYROM, now a country called Macedonia which the Greeks call Skopia.

It would be held outdoors, filmed live and broadcast around the world.

I thought we could use the 3rd Army Greek Brigade as a chorus, recruit top Greek actors, and film, by helicopter, from above.

I needed a good director and funding so I went next door to float the idea to Nikos Koundouris, a well-known Greek director with whom I had worked before. He had stature, stamina and star power.

He liked the idea. The Mayor of Athens, initially reticent, now promised significant funding, as did the Ministry of Culture.

We had three weeks and a total estimated budget of about 10 million drachmas (€30,000) for the one show.

Nikos started rehearsals in Athens.

I was working with my military contacts to secure the army units, the tanks, portable army kitchens, toilets, outdoor seating, transport, hotels and publicity – and was overwhelmed by the support. Everyone wanted to be part of this significant gesture. Nikos obtained costumes from the National Theatre and cast the show with Christos Tsangas in the lead role of King Creon and Demetra Houtoupi in the role of Antigone.

I drove to Florina, a town close to the border, then made my way to the border crossing. There was a small cafe with few people. Not

18 | insider athens

many crossing after the civil war. The paper napkin that came with my coffee sported a picture of a Greek Evzone guard, while a Greek flag unfurled on a tall pole outside. There were snow-capped mountains in the distance. Former Yugoslavia, now called FYROM. The air was thin and cold, the terrain bleak. A grim reality of forgotten border crossings.

I headed to the army barracks to keep my appointment with the base commander Brigadier Tsokakis. I got strange looks from the guards in my white convertible with Athenian plates; not a common occurrence.

Brigadier Tsokakis had been briefed by the Pentagon but was unsure of how he could help. So I gave him my list.

Six tanks, three armored vehicles with machine gun mounts, two food trucks capable of feeding 40 people for five days , 40 soldiers to perform as a chorus, 1000 chairs, ten army tents to be used as changing rooms, a makeshift awning for the official guests, portable toilets, a power line or generator that could support multiple theatre spots and arc lighting, an ambulance, access to showers, permission for a helicopter to fly above and film the rehearsals and production and finally umbrellas. As many as he could get.

He studied the document and said "adynaton", impossible.

I told him he had three days to make the ' impossible' ' possible'.

I drove back to Florina, called Koundouros and recounted my findings and meetings.

An hour later I got a call from the Brigadier. He told me that the 3rd Army Greek Brigade would do its utmost to provide all the services and equipment needed in the National interest.

Shortly afterwards, our borrowed bus arrived with cast and crew and lots of confusion.

We headed for the border 20 kilometers away.

Tents were being pitched, tanks and soldiers milling around, more confusion. I heard the sound of a helicopter above. It had a sign saying ' Interamerican ' painted on its side and someone was hanging out of the

Memoir

Photos courtesy of John Zervos It was the perfect setting, the perfect moment.

I look over to Nikos, standing alone and aloof in his tight fitting cloth cap surveying the scene. It reminded me of a line from Shakespeare's Henry V, "once more unto the breech dear friends, once more".

It was a stunning performance, in a stunning location. Antigone's cries of agony searing through the smoke and people's hearts. A Cry for Peace not just for Sarajevo but for the world.

Just as the performance ended, the snow started to fall.

The completed film was shown at the opening events of Lisbon Cultural Capital of Europe 1994. The Greek participation was a major exhibit entitled “The Rebel Women in Myth and History”.

A fitting coda for Antigone who sacrificed her life for her brother's honor.

“

door with a camera. Filmmaker Sifis Koundouros, Nikos Koundouros's son. It looked very dangerous. A beautiful, tall lady with long hair was taking photos. Her name was Maria Koubani from Kastoria. She and her sister Maria, would become close friends over the years.

Nikos took charge. He had three days to get “show ready”.

He worked with incredible stamina, non-stop from early morning until night. Redoing scenes again and again. The army soup kitchen was lined up serving hot 'fasolada' a delicious bean soup with freshly baked bread. I was trying to coordinate publicity and the guests, which included the Nomarch, the area supervisor, the mayors of Florina, Salonica and Athens, the deputy minister for culture, Giorgos Lianis, the archbishop, military officials, police officials, guests from Athens including Spyros Mercouris, Athens Centre director Rosemary Donnelly and others. They would all need personal attention. The pressure was intense.

Those that seemed to enjoy it most were the soldiers recruited in playing the chorus. Suddenly their drab border life was transformed with actors, musicians and meaning.

Day three was fraught with problems and frayed nerves. The actors were cold, tense and nervous. No let up from Nikos. Quarrels breaking out.

The weather was the big problem. Snow was predicted and there was no plan B. Early morning, show time. Still no snow.

Production scheduled for 12 noon.

By 11am, official cars started arriving and the dignitaries were seated.

The stage was set, the audience, about 1000 people, in place.

A huge wood fire burned centre-stage. Dionysian Myth, an Athens based music group, with traditional instruments, played beautifully, with deep sounds that cut through the clarity of the brisk air and harmonious white capped mountain background. The lonely Greek flag high on its pole a silent witness.

He studied the document and said "adynaton", impossible.

I told him he had three days to make the 'impossible' 'possible'.

Extract from the forthcoming memoir ‘A Life in Paradise’ by John Zervos. John Zervos is the director of the Athens Centre, a prolific public speaker and chronicler of the city’s changing face.

insider athens | 19

Become a Greek Wine Guru at GB’s Wine Library The buzz around just how good Greek wines really are grows steadily louder. Now you can get ahead of the curve and impress your friends and colleagues with your superb grasp of the great Greek grape by signing up for a tasting masterclass at the Hotel Grande Bretagne’s sumptuous Wine Library.

Each Thursday evening, between 6-7pm, GB offers wine fans the chance to make the expert acquaintance of some of Greece’s biggest viniculture stars hailing from many contrasting landscapes: from the Moschofileros from Mantinia and the famed Santorini Assyrtikos; to the Xinomavros from Naoussa in Northern Greece and the oh-so-sweet Samos Muscat appellations, adored all around the world.

The GB’s marvellously-atmospheric Wine Library is an oenophile’s delight. It showcases some 3,500 labels, both Greek indigenous and premium international varieties, stored at the appropriate temperature, in an eye-catching, floor-to-ceiling display.

During the weekly Greek Wine masterclasses, wine lovers can drink in the stately ambience of the library’s vintage carved furniture, elegant candelabras and rich brocade rugs at the mezzanine of the GB Corner, while sommelier Evangelos Psofidis unleashes his contagious passion for Hellenic Wines.

The curated evenings also make for a particularly memorable corporate entertaining experience or special benchmark birthday celebration. To take part, you must have a minimum of four people (maximum of 14). The cost is €45 per person. To reserve, call 210.333.0766. To find out more about the wines you’ll taste, visit gbrestaurants.gr/wine-library

20 | insider athens

Frock on at Costa Navarino Whether you’re a fierce fashionista or merely someone with a keen eye for Greek design and its exciting evolution, you’ll be wanting to pack your (best) suitcase for Costa Navarino’s dazzling Cultural Weekend: “Under the Spell of Greek Costume”, to be held at the resort from October 20-22.

The immersive three-day event, organised in conjunction with the Benaki Museum and Athens International Airport, will feature design stars such as Jean-Paul Gaultier, Mary Katrantzou, Sophia Kokosalaki and Zeus+Dione, along with British fashion editor and commentator Tamsin Blanchard, who will take part in live interviews and innovative presentations.

Exclusive one or two-night luxury accommodation packages have been tailored for the special event, to include a welcome cocktail reception, lunch on the Saturday and complimentary participation in all activities (such as illuminating philosophy walks in the lush Messinian countryside).

For more information, visit www.costanavarino.com/culturalweekend/

The Greek Scoring Machine enters the Hall of Fame Americans may like to claim him as one of their own. But if you ask any Greek basketball fan, Hellenic hero Nikos Galis is really ours! Especially now that the retired basketball pro has just been inducted into the NBA’s Basketball Hall of Fame, during a ceremony on September 8 in Springfield, Massachusetts.

The retired Greek-American athlete, now 60, is the legend who almost single-handedly turned basketball into Greece’s national sport, and is widely regarded as one of Europe’s greatest ever scorers (and one of FIBA International’s all-time greats).

Galis played for two Greek teams - Aris Thessaloniki and Panathinaikos - from 1979 to 1994. He also spent eight seasons as the leading scorer in Euroleague.

Get your hands off our Yoghurt!

The jury’s still out on who’s the rightful owner of the Parthenon Marbles … but now Greece is involved in a new high-profile battle to reclaim another prized cultural asset: Greek yoghurt.

The French have their Champagne and the English have their Stilton.

Now Greece’s Ministry of Agriculture is campaigning to have Greek Yoghurt re-classified on the European Union Register as a a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI).

Distinguished from regular yoghurt by its thicker consistency (a result of straining out whey) and healthier image, Greek yoghurt is loved the world over. However, Greece’s traditional apathy about asserting ownership of its own phenomenally-popular product has allowed other countries to co-opt the brand “Greek Yoghurt” and gain a lucrative foothold in the market.

And with the global market for Greek yoghurt now estimated at a mighty 50 billion euros, the stakes are high. The new legislation could re-route millions of euros back into Greek coffers.

If the request is accepted, all products labelling themselves as “Greek yoghurt” that are sold in the E.U. will have to actually come from Greece – or drop the word « Greek » from their labels.

The E.U. is currently the largest consumer of Greek yoghurt in the world, accounting for 39% of global trade. Asia comes in second with 28%, and North America, 15%.

Ministry of Agriculture officials are hoping to earn the new status by the end of this year.

Family Fun is Child’s Play at Benaki Today’s e-gadget-obsessed children will receive an illuminating glimpse into a lost world of more innocent playtime pursuits at the Benaki’s new museum of Childhood Toys & Games, which just opened to the public at Kouloura Mansion, a stately stone dwelling bequeathed to the Benaki by Vera Kouloura.

The building is now home to the extensive collection of historic toys and games that was donated by Maria Argyriadi in 1992 and which tallies almost 20,000 items from all over the world, including Greece and Europe, Japan and China, and spanning from antiquity and Byzantine periods to the 17-20th centuries.

Among the fascinating collection is the little horse that great statesman Eleftherios Venizelos donated to his grandson Lefterakis for his birthday in 1927. Other curiosities include early mechanised carousels; “modern” theatrical dolls; vintage costumes of stage designer Dionysis Fotopoulos; children’s literature; sporting amusements; and popular boys and girls games throughout the ages.

Exhibition Opening hours: Thursday-Sunday 10:00-18:00.

Sunday October 22 will be open day for the public with free admission.

insider athens | 21

Dinara Alieva ŠVlad Loktev

22 | insider athens

Interview

Sound and Fury Azerbaijani soprano star Dinara Alieva, fresh from her triumph emulating her idol Maria Callas - to mark the 40th anniversary of La Divina’s death - talks to Sudha Nair-Iliades about what it takes to be an opera diva 21st century-style…

I am a follower of that perception of opera that Maria Callas saw and represented. The main elements in opera are still voice, music and acting. And unfortunately, for today, directors’ visions are sometimes completely inadequate and it's not always possible for a singer to express himself as he would like to. I admit that for me, and probably for most singers, it's more pleasant to perform in academic productions: with beautiful costumes and decorations. But I realize that the world does not stay in the one place. And if the director justifies the avantgardism of his production, explains his vision of the play, his point of view, the uniqueness of his interpretation of the characters, then the artists will follow him.

“

Maria Callas was clearly a potent early influence with you winning international opera competitions as a young soloist; and now having just performed to record audiences in Athens and Thessaloniki commemorating La Divina. What does Maria Callas mean to you?

She is the most remarkable star that still shines on the Opera Planet.

Maria Callas is a bright page in the history of opera. I do not consider myself a famous soprano, especially when we talk about Maria Callas.

She managed to do for the opera something that nobody could have done before her. She was a bright personality, a hard working singer with a unique charisma. She remains an icon of the opera world and the memory of her will live forever. I was extremely happy to be given the chance to come to this joyful and sunny country and sing at a concert in her memory.

each role is a deep drama or a story of an entire destiny

You have been a lead soprano with the Bolshoi since 2010. What are some of the most memorable roles that you have performed throughout your career?

One of the most memorable was probably my first debut in the Vienna Opera House. The performance was not planned: the regular singer of the theater got sick. I got a call and was asked to replace her. It was Mozart, the part of Donna Elvira, which is performed in Italian. The audience in Vienna know this part almost by heart ... Imagine how exciting it was. When I arrived, I saw the theater, flooded with lights and it seemed to me that I was sleeping and it was a dream. I could not believe it was happening to me in real life. Fortunately, everything went well.

How do you manage to inject the same intensity into the complex characters you play and give a credible performance, night after night?

For me, each role is a deep drama or a story of an entire destiny. And to convey the intensity of emotions, which is concluded in the verses and music of these masterpieces, you need a full concentration: both vocal and emotional. You should be like a stretched spring. During the process of preparing for the role, you penetrate it, you pass it through yourself. Sometimes it happens by itself, and I do not even always remember which tricks I used...

Which roles remain closest to your heart?

According to my feelings, and what art critics and the press say, then my voice is very suitable for Italian music. And my favorite composer is Puccini. I always really feel his music, his style. Verdi, of course, I love too. Each of my roles I keep close to me. In my track record there are such performances as Liu, Mimi, Violetta, Leonora from "Troubadour", Martha, Rosalinda, Iolanta, Magda from “La rondine”.

Do you think that opera as an art form needs to evolve to sustain itself in the 21st century?

How do you deal with an unreceptive audience? Or a harsh critic?

Of course, for the singer the main thing is the reception of the audience, but when I create on stage, I do not expect it. I enter my world and try to give everything to the public. It is not in my memory a time when I was met badly, and of course the Greek public received me especially warmly! Criticism can be difficult and I am ok with it. I am not a candy to please all!

What would your advice be to young and aspiring singers to foster a love for opera?

Perhaps to attend more "open air" concerts. See how often this is done in Germany, and how many “little viewers” they attract. In Russia, we have just recently started practicing this but there are just not enough suitable stages for these kinds of performance yet.

And to aspiring singers I would recomend to listen to and to read classical literature. Because today there are many good singers with good voices but they are empty inside. And the audience can read it in their eyes. And, surely, to follow your heart. Listen to your intuition. And dream because I believe that dreams do come true!

SOUND BITES Do you sing in the shower?

No, I do not!

Do you have a ritual before you go on stage?

Before going on stage, I turn to God. When you're in Athens, what do you love doing most?

In Athens, I like to enjoy the warm atmosphere and fantastic food.

You love Greece because...

I love Greece, because my creative start began with the contest of Maria Callas!

insider athens | 23

Lost & Found The Athens International Airport makes its cinematic debut at the 23rd Athens International Film Festival this month with a heart-warming documentary about human connections.

24 | insider athens

Art & Culture

“I

s an airport only a hub of destinations, or is it also a… hub of human stories?”

This is the question that the new film “Lost & Found” pledges to answer: Not merely a tale of lost luggage and other common airport mishaps, “Lost & Found” is a moving story about people who find their destinies intertwined in inexplicable and unexpected ways and connected… through the airport.

The film, created for Athens International Airport in the framework of its new campaign under the slogan “See the Big Picture in Aviation Marketing”, is directed by Akis Polyzos. It was presented on Friday, September 22nd, at the “Danaos” Athens cinema, as part of the festival’s Opening Nights line-up.

The film is an entry to the competition of the Athens International Film Festival and has a wonderful cast of actors, including a surprising leading role, by Yiannis Vogiatzis, who’s returning to the big screen after 32 years!

“Lost & Found” is an adaptation of the novel “Lost & Found: an Athenian story”, written, on behalf of the Athens International Airport, by Thodoris Georgakopoulos. The film adaptation was made by Director Akis Polyzos.

To mark this milestone release, Ioanna Papadopoulou, AIA Director, Communications & Marketing said: “Who could imagine, an airport making a film! For us at the Athens airport however, as we continuously seek for innovation and creativity in aviation marketing, it all seemed like a natural, next step to take.”

insider athens | 25

Mary Katrantzou at her atelier

26 | insider athens

Fashion

Digital Dreams Mary Katrantzou – one of Greece’s biggest overseas success stories – bolted out of the gates in 2008, pioneering a thrilling new look for women, typified by bold digital prints and structural silhouettes.

She quickly became one of the most talked-about designers with Rihanna, Sarah Jessica Parker and Michelle Obama among her highprofile supporters.

Insider’s Michail-Alexander Passos caught up with the phenomenallytalented Katrantzou on her recent visit to Mykonos to talk technology, popularity and Brand Greece.

Pattern I Courtesy of Mary Katrantzou

insider athens | 27

What stimuli does your creativity feed on? Do you consider creativity to be inexhaustible?

I find inspiration comes from everywhere, from symbolism and applied design to art and architecture. I love to obsess over one idea, dissecting the inspiration to re-assemble a collage of contrasting references and create unexpected narrative arcs for each collection. The source of creativity is infinite. Exploring each idea and driving it into final finished product on the runway is always the hardest part.

In a world where technology is becoming ever more dominant, how important do human factors such as inspiration and creativity remain for you as a designer?

Using digital technology opens up a huge spectrum for opportunity; it allows me to create possibility out of impossibility, surrealism out of realism and push boundaries. These digital tools enable us to explore ideas, but ultimately still require the human touch to interpret and channel ideas to bring them into the physical world.

Recently a lot of renowned fashion houses such as Chanel and Gucci have based their collections on, or been inspired by, ancient Greece.

Your own previous collection depicts direct references to your country of origin. Do you intend to incorporate more Greek influences into a future collection?

When I designed Spring Summer 2017, I had never really thought of doing a collection based on my Greek heritage because it was too close to home. But I was researching female deities and came across these Minoan women frescoes and thought, why not? I can understand why others are also drawn to the rich culture and history of Greece – the civilisation offers an incredible richness and it is wonderful to see more attention being drawn to it. For me, the source of inspiration for each collection changes every season evolving into an independent theme of its own and it is unlikely we will re-visit this particular idea in the near future. However, my Greek roots and upbringing will always subconsciously influence me and my aesthetic.

Which one of your previous high-profile collaborations - Longchamp, Adidas, Moncler, Topshop, Repetto, etc – provided the biggest learning opportunity?

Each of the brands I have collaborated with has allowed me to apply my aesthetic to a format I may not have considered before, in that sense it has been challenging but incredibly rewarding. It has allowed us to reach out to a wider audience. For Adidas, for example, it was fascinating to delve through their trainer archive and to experiment with different applications. Moncler allowed me to work on outerwear in a genuine way and Longchamp landmarked my introduction to accessories. Designing for the Opera de Paris was a highlight as it challenged me to design for movement and together with another creator.

If you had to choose between developing your brand further and taking over a fashion house, what would you choose? Which fashion house would you set your heart on?

28 | insider athens

With my own brand, I feel privileged to be in a position where I can follow my designs from an initial idea to runway and onto the shop floor.

It has been an incredible journey to see the company grow and build an amazing team support to turn dreams into reality. I still have many more stories to tell and I am excited about all the possibilities that the future can bring for the brand.

How do you handle your popularity? Many designers or creative people appear to have a very strong sense of confidence or is that just window dressing?

I think one never loses one’s sense of insecurity and I have learnt to live with it and harness it creatively. There must be self-doubt, to be aware of what is happening around you, to be able to filter it, incorporate it into one’s work and be in sync with the times. It is too easy to become complacent when arrogant. At the same time, I also have to be brave when it comes to certain decisions. The balance is a delicate dichotomy.

Being a celebrated name, how would you deal with a run-out of ideas?

In fashion there is always a demand for fresh, innovative designs. As a designer there is never a time where I should stop pushing the boundaries and challenging myself; there is no room to become complacent, only room to develop.

What is the most noteworthy moment from your runway shows?

Our last Autumn Winter 2017 show was a highlight as it showcased the rich expression we have become as a brand with digital print roots that have evolved into luxe fabrications, textures and embellishments to offer a complete brand experience and visual feast. The runway came together in the raw round space of the underground tanks at the Tate Modern, enhanced with rich sounds of the Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra playing live. A perfect dichotomy with the ethereal pieces showcasing 40s femme fatales contrasted with Disney centaurettes.

What has been the most serious obstacle you had to overcome to become Mary Katrantzou as you are today?

Evolving the brand beyond its digital print roots to showcase the full scope of our creativity has been a challenge over the evolution of the brand. In seasons past, there has been a deliberate decision to explore fabrications, embellishments and texture to push the creative boundaries of possibilities. I feel we have now reached a point where the collections have achieved a harmonious balance that honours the brand DNA, tantalises the consumer and allows room for further growth.

If you were to host a foreigner in Greece, which are the three most memorable experiences you would wish to share?

I would love to share the rich culture and intensity of Athens, combined with the experience of relaxing island holidays in Spetses. Both locations offer breathtaking landscapes, sunsets and open-hearted people ready to share their stories.

insider athens | 29

ettyleon.com | kalistonart.com | nadiarapti.com | nassosntotsikas.com | orsalia-parthenis.gr | paraphernalia.gr | petalooda.gr | themotleygoat.com | zeusndione.com

30 | insider athens

fall into line Photo | George Savvoulidis Fashion Director | Michail-Alexander Passos Hair & Make Up Artist | Mary Rokkou Models | Polinka (DModels) Ireena (Ace) Production | Fashion Assured

Zeus+Dione Dress €1.119 Etty Leon Shoes €350 Kaliston Art Scarf €145 Paraphernalia Chair €65

The Motley Goat Doubleface Coat €206 Dress €120 Dress €148 Etty Leon Shoes €350 Personart Bracelet €40 (Each)

insider athens | 31

We wish to kindly thank athinais cultural centre for providing us with the venue.

Nadia Rapti Coat €210 Dress €129 (Black) Dress €210 Petalooda Bag €180 Kaliston Art Scarf €145 Etty Leon Shoes €480 (Silver)

32 | insider athens

Orsalia Parthenis Wool Coat €500 Dress €300 Petalooda Choker €60 Paraphernalia Chair €65 Etty Leon Shoes €480

insider athens | 33

Celebrity Skin Dresses & Pleated Skirts (Prices Upon Request)

Nassos Ntotsikas Blazer €295 Knit Top €87 Pants €156 Knit Dress €244 Petalooda Bag €180

Stitch Perfect The head-turning knitwear creations of Nassos Ntotsikas are rapidly earning the attention of an elite, fashion-forward clientele. While widely admired for his pioneering fashion shows, Nassos also stays true to his Chios roots, discovers Insider’s fashion editor Michail-Alexander Passos.

Your catwalks are renowned. Do you have any pre-show rituals?

Kissing all the models for good luck right before the show is about to start!

What is the most memorable moment from your runway shows?

Probably when I was awarded the Best Trendsetter Award during the Athens Fashion Week in 2012. Though I have to say that I really enjoy the backstage excitement at every runway show, despite the fatigue and the anxiety.

Living and working in Greece, how has this inspired your collections?

Greece is so much more than its tradition, its history, the islands and the sun.

Greece has mostly to do with its people who are passionate, intense, creative and hardworking. And it is its people who inspire me every day. Additionally, I feel that my origins have provided me with a great sense of symmetry and structure, which both leave their mark on my work.

Everything you do is produced here. Are buyers sensitive to this?

Initially buyers were skeptical, but eventually the product itself proved that Made In Greece can be synonymous with high quality.

What are the three pieces every woman should have in her wardrobe?

Every woman knows that she must have a LBD, but it’s equally important to invest in one very special dress too. A tailored blazer is classic, feminine and looks great on all body types. Moreover, a knit cardigan is perfect for days when you’re feeling bloated but still want to look put-together!

Your Insider’s tips for Chios island?

Chios is blessed with incredible landscapes, amazing beaches, history and culture. Among my top choices are the medieval villages and the Mastiha region in the south, flora and fauna, paths and isolated spots well-hidden across the island. Mesta village, Pyrgi village, Nea Moni – a UNESCO World Heritage Monastery, Mavra Volia beach and Kronos ice-cream! And one should not leave the island before to tasting the local cuisine at Mavrokordatiko restaurant!

info NASSOS NTOTSIKAS nassosntotsikas.com Atelier: 292 Kifissias avenue, N. Psychiko 15451 queries@nassosntotsikas.com | tel: 69373 19 528

36 | insider athens

Photo by: George Savvoulidis

Interview

An Artful Touch A scarf has a special place in the heart – and wardrobe - of every true fashionista. A practical item that can be worn in so many ways; yet also provide a whimsical note and be considered ‘wearable art’ too. Like the gorgeous silk designs of Kaliston Art which depict masterful Greek paintings. Insider’s fashion editor MichailAlexander Passos meets Daisy Chalikiopoulou, the creative mind behind this exclusive Corfu label.

What does the Kaliston Art brand stand for?

The philosophy behind Kaliston Art is to combine fashion accessories with the Greek arts. More specifically, we adopt the works of Corfiot and other Greek artists, which could also be the works of photographers and engravers, to use as our patterns for our fine materials. We produce scarves, sarongs and kaftans with the finest materials on the market, which we consider to be both priceless works of art, but also versatile fashion accessories.

How do you collaborate with an artist?

The main criterion for choosing a work of art is how well it can be depicted on our fashion items. The value of the artist’s work is not a prerequisite to be chosen for our collections. What we do, however, is look for certain characteristics that ensure the creation of a fashion item, which also pictures the artist’s initial work.

What was your initial creative vision?

To merge the two fields of fashion and art. We wanted to appreciate the artists’ works by bringing them to life through our creations while offering our customers high quality fashion creations with the finest fabrics in the world.

Give us some Insider’s tips for Corfu.

Corfu has a singular cultural heritage. The magnificent Venetian fortresses around old Corfu town are the sole remaining specimen landmarks in the European region and subsequently are on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. To experience the natural beauty of the island, one should also explore the coastal areas around Corfu island, its golden beaches, especially the ones not accessible via the mainland (such as Antipsos at the northern edge of the island. It will mesmerize you at first sight!)

info KALISTON ART Gilford 40, Corfu 26610 33589 | kalistonart.com

insider athens | 37

Agora

Classically Costa Navarino

1.

Words and Fashion Picks | Michail-Alexander Passos

T

he study of Classics is the study of ancient Greek History mingled with a ripple of Mythology and Philosophy. The backdrop your imagination conjures right now? Exactly Messinia. Nestled among olive groves and lean cypress trees as far as the eye stretches, amid a landscape characterised by ancient stone buildings with bright blue shutters and sandy coves, Messenia is a destination that delivers the essence of the Greek way of living: A life filled with good company and laughter. And plates and glasses that are always more than half full.

The Costa Navarino resort complex is a sustainable eco-system that offers a pure and idyllic Greek-style of luxury unlike any other. The resort consists of low-rise stone villas with infinity pools stretching towards the Ionian Sea. Lush landscaping and arresting views make each villa feel like its own isolated slice of Greek bliss. When you are packing for a trip in a luxe resort like Costa Navarino, one of the key elements is comfort. Opt for natural fibres, like silk and linen and keep clothing loose, airy and elegant. Select simple shapes and silhouettes and add interest in the detailing. This season’s off the shoulders styles are ideal, but make sure you apply the sunscreen: Messinia is sunny even in October. Here is our Insider Style Guide on what to pack for Costa Navarino.

1.Kaliston Art Silk Scarf €145, 2.180 Degrees Dress €255, 3.Etty Leon Oia Sandals €224, 4.Mary Katrantzou Top €945, 5.Callista Tote Bag €440, 6.Mastiha Care Sunscreen with Mastiha & Aloe €14,55, 7.Chicuel Pants €168, 8.Ibo-Maraca Hat €420, 9.Zolotas Bracelet €690, 10.Grecian Chick Tote Bag €336, 11.Isapera Sandals €130, 12.Nassos Ntotsikas Drape Dress €169, 13.Korres Krocus Anti-Age Elixir €39,8, 14.Zeus+Dione Swimsuit €190, 15.Zeus+Dione Silk Shorts €280, 16.Muse Of Infinity Jacket €144,17.The Motley Goat Top €48, 18.Pareaki Pareo €50

2.

3.

4.

6.

5.

7.

8.

13.

16.

9.

14.

17.

10.

12.

18.

11.

15.

insider athens | 39

A vivid world of green lies waiting to be admired amid the concrete contours of our capital. Maria Irene Moschona captures the lush natural expanse between Areopagus - where the Apostle Paul delivered his most dramatic sermon – and the Philopappos Monument on Muse Hill, southwest of the Acropolis.

40 | insider athens

Celebrating Greece

insider athens | 41

Koukaki Rising “Let’s go to Koukaki!” the old-timers used to say.

What are you waiting for? Let’s go, says Eleni Zoe, as she marks out the new infusion of fashionable foodie haunts and drinking dens, cropping up next to the classic hits of old.

The charming area of Koukaki, sprawled at the feet of the Acropolis, has had many identities over the last century. But none are as cool as its current status as one of the most interesting neighbourhoods in the world (at least according to Airbnb).

It’s not hard to see why it made the list: As one of the fastest-growing precincts of central Athens, Koukaki has seen an explosion of hip restaurants, bars and boutiques, attracting a young crowd of students, creatives and Instagrammers, all the while retaining the warmth and intimacy of 1960s Athens.

Noticeably, in the last few years, a quiet foodie revolution has taken place. There are so many places worth visiting, it’s hard to pick the handful that stand out. Consider this your starting point:

The old and crumbling juxtapose the new and swanky at Koukaki

Kalamaki Bar

City Scope

The New Kalamaki Bar Most restaurants marinate their meat, but at Kalamaki Bar, proprietor Antoni insists that the skewers are marinated too -for at least 12 hours before they’re used. Kalamaki, as the name suggests, is where you’ll get your fill of traditional Greek dishes with a few inventive twists.

Try the popular Cretan salad dakos, and the one under their own name featuring lettuce, rucola, red peppers, pomegranate seeds, parmesan cheese, and cherry tomatoes – both are irresistible. Add kebabs of grilled mushrooms and kebabs of grilled haloumi cheese to your order and round it off with your choice of ‘skewered meat’. Whether you choose pork, chicken, veal or lamb, it will melt in your mouth.

Drakou 15, Tel: 210.217.1862

Skoumbri

Skoumbri Directly opposite Kalamaki Bar, Antoni’s brother Christos is at the helm of Skoumbri. Skoumbri is one large area, light and airy, decorated in shades of palest blue, stone and white. These pretty and witty nautical touches are apropos as Skoumbri (Greek for mackerel) serves freshly caught fish.

Do not be afraid to order whatever catches your eyes, but crowd favourites’ include the Fisherman’s Pasta, featuring spaghetti with octopus, squid, shrimp and mussels; and the kritherakia - a tasty Greek pasta that resembles large grains of rice - cooked with squid in black ink, and ouzo.

Drakou 4, Tel: 210.921.0994

Kinonó This light-filled, spacious, all-day snack bar is the brainchild of Olga Maneta. She chose the name Kinonó as a way to establish its purpose — kinonó means “take part” as well as “communion.” The cafe’s minimalist aesthetic, with marble floors and a wooden bar that Maneta made herself, inspires a good mood whether you want it to or not. Signature cocktails up the social vibes, with gin taking a decidedly central role on the menu. Drink, chill, share.

Falirou 48, Tel: 211.408.6826

insider athens | 43

Monsieur Barbu

Monsieur Barbu With enough character to carry an entire Oscar-nominated film, Monsieur Barbu --an all-day bar tucked away on Falirou Street --stands out from its neighbors for two reasons: the shabby-chic exposed brick interior and the delightfully calorific menu. Comfort fare abounds with giant cups of coffee, juicy burgers and a Sunday brunch (served from noon to 4 p.m.) that’ll have you coming back every weekend. Oh, and the cocktails? They’re all soul.

Falirou 59, Tel: 210.924.7555

Materia Prima Cava & Wine Bar After almost only a year in business, Materia Prima has established itself as the “quintessence” of wine in Koukaki. The enviable walk-in cellar is home to a brag-worthy wine list, populated with more than 300 labels. Among the 300, you’ll find locally and internationally produced wines, small-batch, vintages and obscure bottles you’ve definitely never heard of. Pair your vino with cheese, sausages, carpaccio, fresh salads or other small seasonal dishes. Don’t be afraid to ask for recommendations as the Materia team is all about education. In addi-

tion to daily wine tastings they organize events with winemakers and shakers regularly.

Falirou 68, Tel: 210.924.5935

Lotte Cafe-Bistrot It’s hard to ignore among all those gray and gloomy apartment buildings: Lotte is a splash of bright color in an otherwise stark urban environment. Theodora, the owner, had noticed this small space when it was still a fashion atelier. With a little help from her friends, she created the tiny yet hard-to-miss cafe and bistro. The decor is inspired by the ‘30s and ‘40s — you’ll be happy to know the gramophone is still working. Stay. Sip one of the best Italian coffees in town, try her mom’s homemade sweets, and be transported to another era.

Tsami Karatasou 3, Tel: 211.407.8639

Hops Beer n Burgers Beer or burgers? Put your hands together at Hops, because you won’t be able to resist indulging in both. You’ll find juicy burgers in all their incarnations and more than 40 labels of local and international beers.

City Scope

The Classics Every month Hops creates a new burger accompanied by a recommended beer that will bring out the burger’s flavors. With brunch served daily, beer cocktails mixed in the evenings, and screens to watch your clubs play, this is an all-day, any day kind of place.

Drakou 10, Tel: 211.013.6500

Kosmidis Patisserie

As the oldest business in Koukaki, Kosmidis Patisserie is practically an institution. It’s been serving its customers traditional Greek delicacies as well as European style sweets since 1963. While the lemon meringue pies, cheese cakes, chocolate cakes are good, Kosmidis shines at being Greek. Try the galaktoboureko - crispy layers of filo with a creamy custard centre- and the large variety of baklava. Happily, you will also find tsoureki (the shiny and braided sweet bread gobbled religiously during Easter) all year round. Try to eat in moderation.

Drakou 49; Tel: 210.921.8252

Ambrosia There’s something about a traditional Greek taverna, one that has been around for eons, that charms even the most cynical among us. When

Drakou street view you want to step back in time, head to Ambrosia where various meze are made fresh every morning. Classics, like moussaka, spinach and rice, and lamb fricassee (lamb cooked with lettuce and served in a creamy dill sauce) are on the menu daily. While other traditional Greek dishes make guest appearances.

Pro tip: Veteran customers are always served a complimentary dessert -- a slice of walnut cake, halva, or a preserved spoon-fruit on a bed of frothy yoghurt -- so it is well worth returning time after time.

Drakou 3-5, Tel: 210.922.0281

Guarantee Don’t believe the hype. Except when it comes to Guarantee. Serving the masses since 1988, this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it sandwich shop is the real deal. With more than 20 types of bread and a massive selection of fresh fillers to pack between the slices, it’s highly unlikely you’ll walk away unsatisfied. But just in case you arrive when all the sandwiches are finished (it happens so often we have shed actual tears), Guarantee also serves salads, cooked meals and fresh juices. Get there early.

Veikou 41, Tel: 210. 922.6924, www.toguarantee.gr

“Everything tastes better under the Greek Sun…”

46 | insider athens

Gastronomy

The Queen of Greek Cuisine, Diane Kochilas, is set to become a household name in America, after her new cooking programme, “My Greek Table”, begins airing nationally on American public television from October 4. In the 13-part series, the New York-born chef travels throughout Greece and the islands, showcasing our most prized culinary treasures; before whipping up simple home-cooked dishes with them in her own kitchen. Insider caught up with the first lady of Greek gastronomy to talk about her passionate campaign to awaken the world’s appetites for Greek food.

What is your first memory of cooking?

My first memories of cooking are of my dad, a big man with a moody temperament, leaning over the open oven door about to invert his upside down pineapple cake, all bubbly and caramelized and smelling very good to an 8-year-old’s nose.

Where or from whom did you learn the most about cooking?

Tough question. My mother wasn’t a great cook. I have memories of my dad’s food but not a lot of memories of him. He passed away early. I learned a lot by spending some time next to chefs and a lot from reading. Mostly I learned just by doing.

What dish are you most often asked to bring to dinner parties?

Wine!

Which dish does it give you the most pleasure to teach someone how to cook?

Filo pies. Most people are afraid of pastry and filo seems as difficult as astrophysics to most home cooks. But it’s as easy as reading your daily horoscope!

What is the best piece of advice you would give someone just starting to cook?

Eat, taste, and relax!

we eat infinitely better on Greek soil than almost anywhere else in the world

Can you tell us more about your marvelous annual cooking school in Ikaria? Do people come from all around the world to participate? How important is it to you to retain this tradition, in the context of your growing celebrity?

We love doing the classes. For one, Vassili (my husband) and I -- we do the classes together -- and we have met some of the most fascinating people in the world, our guests!

It takes an adventurous soul to come all the way to a remote Greek island to cook. Our main audience for the classes are Americans, but we have gotten a fair number of Australians and Canadians over the years. Why would we not continue? They bring us a lot of pleasure. I also believe that we have shown many people over the years that a simple life, as most Greek islanders experience it, is one well worth exploring.

If not Greek food, what is your favourite other foreign cuisine or guilty pleasure?

Forget the guilty pleasures. I never associate guilt with anything, let alone pleasure! I love Indian cuisine and anything spicy.

Do you eat differently – or have a different attitude towards food - when you’re back on Greek soil than you do in the States?

I would say we eat infinitely better on Greek soil than almost anywhere else in the world.

The food is still very fresh and seasonal here, it is grown fairly close to home, and everything tastes better under the Greek sun. In the U.S., the food supply is a mess and controlled by too many corporate interests.

insider athens | 47

“

About Diane Kochilas One of the world’s foremost authorities on Greek food, Diane Kochilas has hosted Greece’s most popular cooking show, “What Are We going to Eat Today, Mom?” She is also the author of over 10 cookbooks on Greek cuisine – including the award-winning The Glorious Foods of Greece - as well as being a contributor to The New York Times and various prestigious gourmet magazines.

To celebrate the television series, St. Martin’s Press is also relaunching Diane’s first book The Food and Wine of Greece, the bible of Greek cooking.

48 | insider athens

insider athens | 49

7

Super Food Festivals for Fall

Greeks will find just about any excuse to throw a party. Especially in the fertile harvest months of Autumn when Nature’s bounty overflows and – life-affirming celebrations abound to honour the traditional delicacies that have shaped the local character and flavours of villages, towns and islands all over Greece.

Experience the wonderful Greek Epicurean spirit in its purest form…at one of these vibrant culinary fall festivals.

The Pomegranate Festival

WHEN: October 22.

WHAT: The pomegranate tree, an eternal symbol of fertility praised by Nobel Prize-winning poet Odysseas Elytis, is the protagonist of this festival which takes place in late October in the coastal town of Ermioni.

Ermioni traditionally grows a special pomegranate variety, distinguished by its sweet taste and soft seeds. During the Sunday festival, the Limani area is turned into a display of fine foods and drinks made with pomegranates and presented by local taverna and bakery owners. Potted pomegranate trees and music create the ambiance of a small colourful carnival, buzzing with people in celebration of this ancient fruit, which has been grown around Ermioni for centuries.

EAT: Marmelade of Ermioni pomegranate. Made with pomegranate juice and seeds, sugar and lemon.

DRINK: Pomegranate liqueur.

50 | insider athens

Gastronomy

The Panhellenic Mushroom Festival

WHEN: Late October or early November.

WHAT: Mushroom lovers come together each year in the town of Grevena, the “mushroom capital of the Balkans”, and its surrounding charming villages, where more than 3,000 different mushroom species can be found growing alongside the footpaths of the massive Pindos mountain range and the nearby Valia Kalda National Park. Collecting them is a favourite pastime for locals and visitors. At the three-day fair you’ll have the chance to enjoy time in unspoiled nature while expanding your knowledge on mushrooms through workshops and seminars, mushroom-picking hikes and, of course, through tasting various delicious mushroom-based recipes. There are organized mushroom hunting tours led by experienced mushroom hunters who will accompany you to the forests to collect king bolete mushrooms, one of the local species, as well as truffles.

EAT: Mushroom soup. Mushroom jam. Pasteli with mushrooms. Fresh mushrooms with olive oil or pickled, whole dried or powdered, pasta with truffles and mushrooms.

DRINK: Mushroom liqueur.

Aegina Pistachio Festival

WHEN: From late August until late September.

WHAT: The first pistachio trees were introduced to the Saronic Gulf island of Aegina around the end of the 19th century. Over the following decades, its cultivation became so popular that most of the island’s arable land was covered by pistachio orchards, making the small nut Aegina’s trademark (in 1994, “fistiki Aeginis” earned a PDO – Protected Designation of Origin – status). Locals have developed a particular roasting technique, which is handed down from generation to generation. The unique taste of the Aegina pistachio is owed partly to the warm and dry climate and proximity to the sea.

The “Aegina Fistiki Fest” has now evolved into a major cultural and commercial event in the Saronic, drawing more than 30,000 visitors each year. Most events take place around the port. As a highlight, renowned chefs cook various dishes in an open space and share them with festival goers, while the exhibition’s official theatrical opening re-enacts the island’s history and culture.

Fun Fact: In 2011, Aegina entered the Guinness World Records with a 40-metre long pasteli bar made with local pistachio.

EAT: Sarikia. Syrupy rolls of crispy pastry shells filled with ground pistachio nuts. Pistachio cake (with ground pistachio instead of flour). The nuts are mixed with ground mastic, mastic liqueur, breadcrumbs, sugar, baking powder and eggs. Pistachio pate made from pureed potato mixed with salt, pepper, oregano, lemon juice, garlic, olive oil and roasted ground Aegina pistachios.

DRINK: Pistachio liqueur.

PanHellenic Feta Festival in Elassona

WHEN: Mid or late September.

WHAT: Elassona’s renowned feta cheese (PDO) is the star of this three-day festival, where you’ll see traditional local cheesemaking techniques skilfully combined with modern methods. Over 30 cheesemakers from Thessaly - one of the country’s most important dairy-producing regions - take part in the lively food festival which attracts visitors from all over Greece and also helps to promote feta in the European and international markets. There are art and cultural events such as concerts and games for children. But the most popular ritual takes place on the morning of the last day when dozens of local women pull out their rolling pins and publicly prepare hundreds of coiled cheese pies to bake and then share with hungry onlookers. At the festival’s evening finale, dozens of lambs and goats are roasted and served on wax paper, giving visitors the chance to taste the famous lamb and goat meat of Elassona (both also PDO products).

EAT: Rapsanian pecan pie. A delectable syrupy pie with a double filling of rice boiled with sugar, fresh butter and walnuts mixed with cinnamon.

DRINK: Rapsani dry wine (PDO) from the vineyards around the village of Rapsani in the neighbouring municipality of Tempi.

insider athens | 51

Gastronomy

Raki and Tskikoudia Festivals in Crete

WHEN: Between mid-October and mid-November.

WHAT: Raki or Tsikoudia (they are essentially the same) is the spirit of genuine Cretan tradition, the quintessential element of Cretan culture. Clear, fragrant and potent, it is enjoyed in small shot glasses and encompasses all the warmth of Cretan hospitality. An essential constituent of Cretans’ daily life, it can be found in every house and is enjoyed on all occasions and at all times of the day, bringing people together, fuelling conversations – and above all, sparking revelries with impromptu mantinades, melodies and robust Cretan dancing.

Each year, after the harvest, pressing and making of the fresh wine, it is the time to produce the distinctive beverage in a process called kazanema. These kazanemata (also known as rakokazana) are spirited celebrations of tsikoudia and take place all over Crete, both as organized events in public spaces (the Dance Society of Chania “Psiloritis” throws one such fete in mid-October at the Venetian Harbour of Chania) and in private homes. The traditional goal of a “proper Cretan kazanema” is two-fold: to celebrate the good health of the distiller and to exorcise the fear of death.

EAT: Common Cretan rakomezedes are fresh fruit and nuts, including walnuts, pomegranates, apples and quinces. Roasted chestnuts and corn on the cob. Hohlioi boubouristoi – snails cooked in a skillet with olive oil, vinegar and rosemary. Kalitsounia or lychnarakia. Small tartlike sweets filled with fresh unsalted mizithra cheese, sugar, vanilla and egg and basted before baking with egg, water and cinnamon.

The Walnut Festival

WHEN: Every second Sunday of October.

WHAT: October is the month to harvest walnuts and the people of Rhodes celebrate each year with a feast accompanied by singing and dancing. The walnut worship takes place in Dimylia, a charming village surrounded by lush vegetation at the centre of the island. You can taste sweet homemade delicacies containing walnut such as baklava, walnut pie, takakia, diples, walnut preserve or liqueur, all made with fresh locally-sourced ingredients and great enthusiasm by the Thodian women. Be entertained by local folk musicians playing nisiotika (the distinctive music created in the islands of the central Aegean Sea) who come from all over the island.

EAT: Takakia. Small rolls of homemade pastry filled with walnuts, ground nutmeg, cinnamon and clove and sugar. After baking they are doused with a honey syrup and sprinkled with sesame seeds, cinnamon and ground clove.

Mantinades. Crispy pouches made with thin strips of fried handmade dough dunked in a honey and blossom water syrup and sprinkled with ground almond and walnut. Mantinades are traditionally made on the feast day of St. Andreas (November 30) in Lindos and other Rhodian villages by girls who are engaged to be married, who offer them to their grooms and best men.

The Green Apple Festival

WHEN: Every second weekend in October.

WHAT: An annual celebration of the juicy green apples cultivated in the area has been hosted in the picturesque village of Arsenio (about a 90 minute drive west of Thessaloniki) since 1985.

With much zeal and enthusiasm, locals put on a two-day feast that’s dominated by the scent and taste of the green apple. The women prepare both sweet and savoury delicacies using as a basis the white-fleshed fruit with the slightly sour taste. Long tables are set up outdoors and all locals and visitors are invited to join the feast. Entertainment is provided by local musicians, while traditionally-attired dance groups perform dances from Macedonia, Thrace and Pontos.

EAT: Apple pie. Made with green apples cut in cubes, mixed with sugar, cinnamon, clove, ginger, eggs, olive oil, vanilla, flour and walnuts.

DRINK: Apple liqueur. Apples are cut in slices and preserved for a month in a lidded jar of vodka, brandy, cinnamon stick and cloves.

Source: A Greek Folk Journey – Travel, Culture & Gastronomy by Terina Armenakis.

52 | insider athens

School lunches are sorted with Kostarelos September means back to school, back to work – and back to hectic routines. Make your day smoother sailing and refresh tired old lunch rituals with deliciously-good homemade sandwiches from Kostarelos Greek Delicacies - the high temple to all things dairy – and especially cheese!

K

ostarelos – a premium family business since 1937 - produces daily more than 40 high-quality and nutritional cheese products, based on fresh Greek milk, goat or sheep. The only recipe you will need for a well-received school lunchbox or office break is a slice or two of Kostarelos’ outstanding twelve-month feta, matured to perfection, and spread over fresh bread with a dash of olive oil and oregano.

Their slightly spicy kefalotyri goes perfectly with a little pepper and fresh rocket; while the mature gruyere wants only honey or pomegranate jam to make it sing.

The strained yoghurt, goat or sheep, full or light with 2% fat and a lovely smooth texture, is not just a great breakfast option; it’s also an excellent base for sandwiches, enriched with vegetables or herbs and

Greek olive oil.

For those challenging days when you need a little extra boost in the office or at school, indulge in a serving of rizogala (rice pudding) made to the Kostarelos’ traditional family recipe. Or savour something from their best sweet offerings of the day: a rich chocolate or vanilla cream perhaps.

For further inspiration and more delicious lunchtime ideas, visit a Kostarelos store. With seven points in Attica, you have access to the entire Kostarelos range of cheeses, plus the freshest cold cuts and small products from all over Greece. Downtown gourmet sandwich lovers can avail themselves of a delivery service (Monday - Saturday 10.00 - 18.00) to enjoy at home or work. www.kostarelos.gr

insider athens | 53

Poseidonion Grand Hotel, Spetses

54 | insider athens

Travel

Porto Heli & Spetses: A Classy Double Act Since the arrival of two world-class luxury resorts - and with another one on the way – the once sleepy seaside hub of Porto Heli now attracts a new class of global traveller. Together with its stylish companion island Spetses, the two destinations make up one of the Greek Riviera’s Best Double Bills, writes Amanda Dardanis. insider athens | 55

I

t’s been barely half a decade since the developers Dolphin Capital were bold enough to launch in the heat of the Greek financial crisis two ambitious and wildly diverse luxury hotel projects in Porto Heli, a place most people outside of Greece have never heard of.

First came Amanzoe, one of Greece’s most expensive resorts. A member of the ultra-sophisticated Aman tribe, this discreet Zen-like citadel sits high up in the Peloponnese hilltops, amid lush lavender fields and olive groves, about 170km south of Athens. Villas with private pools start at €2,000 a night, going all the way up to nine-bedroom pavillions set on 4.7 acres with their own spas, gyms and full staff complement. It’s here that the world’s super-wealthy come to hide away when they’re in need of a serious life detox. Everyone from Americans who work on Wall Street, to CEOs, Indian princesses, Arab millionaires and the Beckhams (who were “unofficial” guests last summer).

Two years later came Nikki Beach, about 6km away, on the Porto Heli seafront. The famously hedonistic and aspirational summer playground franchise that began in Miami in the late 90s, chose Porto Heli - of all the places in the world - to open its first Nikki Beach branded resort & spa property. Now, Nikki Beach Porto Heli’s sleek rooftop champagne bar and louche pool parties attract both the Greek Hello! Magazine crowd and an international set, bringing a slice of Mykonos to this otherwise relaxed and modest Greek coastal town that resembles so many others; with elderly men playing backgammon in the kafenion, and family-run tavernas lining the port.

For Dolphin, the gamble looks to be paying off. They now have plans to add another sizeable tourism development with an Aman-style aesthetic to their Porto Heli luxury stable, further consolidating the region’s growing reputation as a world-class destination. This one, called Kilada Hills, will host the first Chedi resort in the Eastern Mediterranean and will consist of a five-star hotel, 18-hole Jack Nicklaus champion golf course, spa, marina, tennis and equestrian academies, and beach club and clubhouse situated on prime Lapitsa Bay, alongside a range of high-end residential offerings.

Much of the reason for Porto Heli’s desirability is Spetses, a gentle and sophisticated island gem that lies just ten minutes away across the Argo-Saronic Gulf, in the Greek Riviera. This pine-covered, cosmopolitan beauty has the looks of California’s Catalina island, and thanks to a proud maritime history, the social pedigree of Portofino or Cape Cod. Together, Porto Heli and Spetses make up a glamorous but refreshingly low-key double act where wealthy Greeks and the European yachting crowd head to unwind and stay off grid.

At just 22sq km, Spetses has neither the space nor inclination for too many hotels. Adding to its boutique charms, the island also boycotts cars and package tourism. It’s a word-of-mouth kind of place. For Athenians, Spetses has always been an ideal weekender because it’s only a 2.5 hour ferry ride from the port of Piraeus. During summer and when Spetses hosts one of its upwardly-mobile sporting events such as the Spetses Tweed bicycle race, the Classic Yacht Regatta or the Spetsathlon, the entire island is usually booked out well in advance.

Traditionally, demand has spilled across into Porto Heli, where a who’s who of the country’s shipping tycoons and old money aristocrats (Goulandris, Nomikos, Livanos, and the King & Queen of Holland to name a few), have built luxury villas on huge blocks with helipads and private jetties, so they can dart over to Spetses – and each others’ pool parties — at will. Many also prefer the mainland location for the

56 | insider athens

Amanzoe, Beach Cabana

ease in getting to neighbouring attractions such as romantic Nafplio, ancient Epidavros, the charming traditional fishing village of Koilada with its excellent fish tavernas, and beautiful, bohemian Hydra.

Over on Spetses, a visual splendour of bougainvillea, climbing jasmine and rotund palms, enchants at first sight. Chi-chi horse buggies trawl tourists across pretty Dapia harbour. Sea taxis bob about next to luxury craft, Victorian lamp posts and wartime cannons. Neo-classical mansions that once belonged to sea captains have been converted into chic hotels, galleries and museums as the island has prospered.

There’s a strong Italianate architectural influence – an aesthetic remnant of the days when Spetses was the “Spice Island”, a major force on the Venetian’s trade route. Spetses grew richer still under the Ottomans, plying them with ships, until they famously became the first Greek island to revolt against the Turks in the War of Independence in 1821.

Presiding over it all is the island’s most historic landmark and the beating heart of the Spetses’ social whirl, the Poseidonion Grand Hotel.

Built by local tobacco tycoon Sotirios Anargyros in 1914 as his gift to the island and modelled on the Negresco in Nice, the Poseidonion was

Travel

“

It’s here that the world’s super-wealthy come to hide away when they’re in need of a serious life detox.

also immortalised by writer John Fowles in The Magus. In the guest book, the faded signatures of Ingrid Bergman, Bobby Kennedy and Elizabeth Taylor appear among the list of visitors past.

It’s here that you may encounter Ralph Fiennes, who comes to Spetses every year to stay at a friend’s villa, admiring local art in the lobby. Or perhaps Valentino, who’s been known to pop in for high-tea on one of the woven bamboo deck chairs on the seafront terrace.

Spetses is often dubbed the “Monaco of Greece” - and the island certainly does boast connections with both shipping and actual royalty.

The ex-King of Greece, Constantine, has a house here. In 1962, Stavros Niarchos bought the small adjoining island of Spetsopoula where Charles and Diana reportedly spent a portion of their honeymoon.

These days, Niarchos’ children are often accompanied in summer by Alberto & Carolina of Monaco.

But the Monaco of Greece moniker misleads. Spetses, at heart, is not a flashy place. Alongside the island’s famous specialties such as the €120 lobster spaghetti at old-time classics such as Tarsanas in the Old Harbour, it’s also easy to source less expensive food, for instance at Kaiki, which cooks up the island’s best pizzas in buzzy Clock Square;

or at rustic beach tavernas such as the one that’s been serving up the same delicious “souzoukakia” meatballs in red sauce for the past forty years on Zogeria, a stunning run of unspoiled sandy bays accessible only by water (or by braving a 1km trek down a loose dirt road).

Spend the day at idyllic pebble and sand coves, such as Vrelos, Agia Paraskevi or Agii Anargyi, with umbrellas and loungers and it will only set you back about €8. Best of all, some of the most memorable Spetses experiences come free. Take the wonderful scenic walk from Dapia around to Panagia Armata Church in the Old Harbour to admire the winsome sculptures of renowned Athenian artist Natalia Mela.

Or there are 25km of continuous panoramic trails on which you can cycle around the island, stopping in at any number of no-named bays along the way. At mesmerising Bekiri’s Cave, you can snorkel in the spot where local women and children once took refuge from Ottoman raiders.

And, of course, there’s always the main square in front of the Poseidonion where you can simply sit back and “people-watch” for hours. Who knows who you’ll see.

This is an abridged version of an article that first appeared in The Times.

insider athens | 57

Spetses

How to do Porto Heli & Spetses like a Local: In Porto Heli Eat at

Papadias This elegant and popular taverna near the church covers all bases from €8 moussaka up to €90 king crab platters. There’s a 20 percent Happy Hour discount on your restaurant bill every day from 7pm8.30pm. This would never happen in St Trop.

Ostria For local delicacies such as Greek paella with squid and mussels (€35 for two) and “marathopita” country pie, combined with the best views on the marina.

Drink at

Nikki Beach Terrific cocktails and incredible 360 degree views over a crescentshaped bay at the luxe rooftop Pearl Bar; or by day, pay from around €35 per person for a sun-lounger to join the decadent beach party below.

Veranda del Vino A vibey old-style wine bar with a great roof terrace that’s frequented by off-duty resort staff and sociable locals.

In Spetses: Eat at

Tarsanas (in the Old Port) or Nero tis Agapis (in Kounoupitsa) Both restaurants are run by second-generation local fisherman Minas Kaloskamis and are distilled Spetses. Order the signature “fish a la Spetsiota”: the local method that broils fillets like red snapper and cod with fresh herbs, onion and tomato inside parchment paper.

Drink at

Bar Spetsa A Spetses institution run by a Spetses institution (aka local character Costa the Cantankerous). Everybody who’s anybody goes there. At least for the first drink of the night.

Play at

The Old Harbour district is Spetses’ party HQ. Reigning hotspots are Bikini Bar, Guzel and Marine - plus Summer 2017 newcomer 1800.

Swim at

Zogeria A stunning run of unspoiled sandy bays with natural shade and shallow waters perfect for wading. Accessible only by water or by braving a 1km trek down a loose dirt road. In summer, a boat service leaves Dapia at noon.

Don’t miss

Cine Tatiana The perfect Greek summer past-time of outdoor cinema awaits at this newly-re-opened landmark, where you can forgo popcorn and mediocre wine to enjoy a glass of sangria and Greek gourmet meze created by the Poseidonion Grand Hotel’s chef while watching the latest Hollywood release in English.

insider athens | 59

Wellness

Awesome Outdoor Exercise Options to get you moving this Autumn!

September is the new January. It’s the month when we’re much more likely to stick to new resolutions and goals.

Especially in Athens. The weather is great and there’s still enough light in the mornings and early evenings to energise us into action.

Take advantage of Autumn’s perfect conditions to start down a rejuvenating new wellness path. To get the (fitness) ball rolling, we propose some of Athens’ most inspiring open-air options for working up a sweat … No excuses!

60 | insider athens

OUTDOOR DIY GYMS

Brightly-coloured metal formations have become a welcome addition to Athens’ urban landscape. Outdoor exercise stations have sprouted in municipalities across the city, revitalizing many previously rundown parks and civic spaces. You can now find outdoor gyms everywhere from seaside promenades to next door to children’s play parks and cemeteries! In fact, there are so many places in Greece now where you can benefit from a spontaneous or planned free workout, that there’s even a website dedicated to them: (www.gympark.gr) It helps if you’re a self-motivated type and at times, you might have to give the hairy eyeball to the teens who love larking around on the equipment, but these outdoor stations are great for mobilizing those who don’t feel comfortable in the fishbowl environment of an image-conscious workout class.

STREET WORKOUT

If it’s motivation you lack, the dynamic duo behind Street Workout, Aggeliki and Tonia, have created a lively community of open-air exercise lovers, who participate in regular outdoor workouts run by qualified trainers who’ll keep you on your toes and stop you from getting bored with your routine (they also do life-coaching along with a whole raft of more tailored physical activities, motivational tournaments and games). For €10, you can join in one of their 60-minute small-group workouts (for groups of up to 12) at either of their two Street Workout bases: Downtown -- Fokianos Sports Park, Leoforos Vasilissis Olgas 1 (opposite Panathenaic Stadium) is equipped with facilities such as weightlifting racks, TRX handles, pushup bars, dip stations, medicine balls, BOSU, heavy ropes, a Pilates studio (Reformer, Wunda chair) in a peaceful setting surrounded by trees and greenery.

South - Sports Center Vouliagmeni, Αgiou Georgiou 2. Training sessions in a nature-oriented environment usually begin at 9am.

Tel: 693.713.0974/697.240.2562 or visit www.streetworkoutathens.gr for more information on booking and packages.

insider athens | 61

Wellness

CYCLING

Getting your pedal power on while enjoying a beautiful view and a breeze in your hair is an exhilarating way to get fit and atone for those summer excesses.

Athens offers some superb coastal routes for cyclists. One of the most popular is the 13.km ride from the Peace and Friendship (SEF) Stadium in Pireaus out to bustling Glyfada on the Athens Riviera. You can park your car at Karaiskaki Stadium Parking or catch the train to SEF Stadium (Ilektrikos – green line) and if you don’t feel up to the return journey, you can always catch a tram back from Glyfada.

For less experienced cyclists, start in Glyfada, and continue your two-wheeled journey by the sea, heading for Kavouri, Vouliagmeni or Varkiza. You’ll be spoilt for choice for lovely seafront cafes and restaurants to break up your ride.

Want more of a challenge? Catch a tram with your bike to Floisvos marina and cycle the 37km along the seafront from Floisvos to beautiful Eden beach in Anavyssos – another great spot to reward yourself with a swim and coffee.

Don’t own a bike? Join one of the brilliant organized bike tours in Athens put on by private operators such as www.solebike.eu . Or make use of the expanding bike rental scheme, Athens Easy Bike, which operates in downtown Athens from Technopolis in Gazi and also has new stations in Glyfada, Voula and Vouliagmeni, with more in the pipeline. The first 20 minutes are free, and every half hour afterwards costs 50c.

To find out more, visit: www.athens.easybike.gr

SWIM

There’s nothing like an early morning swim under blue skies to put the spring into the rest of your day. Especially when surrounded by open sea and luxury boats. The 50x25m outdoor ANOG pool on the Glyfada seafront has long been a favourite for lovers of aqua-exercise. Swimming laps not only burns calories, but also provides a full-body workout and improves both cardiovascular fitness and muscular strength – with no impact shock to your body. (Why do you think so many injured athletes go to the pool!). For beginners, see if you can work towards swimming for 30 minutes continuously. The ANOG pool is open to the public six-days of the week (except Sunday), year-round (except August). As with most public aquatic facilities in Greece, you’ll need to present an up-to-date health letter from a cardiologist and dermatologist (or your GP). Entry price is €4 a visit or €40 for a month’s pool use.

Times: Monday-Friday from 9.30am-2.30pm; Saturday from 11.00am-1.00pm.

Tel: 210.894.4913 or visit www.anog.gr for more information.

62 | insider athens

Yoga helps coordinate physical movement and mental Yoga helps coordinate physical movement and mental processes through gentle practice involving breathing, asana postures, and relaxation. Participants gain peace of mind, self-control and concentration, and develop positive thinking. To attend, wear comfortable clothing and take your own yoga mat as well as a small blanket to cover up during relaxation.

Times: Mondays and Fridays at 7.00-8.30pm; Tuesdays and Thursdays at 8.00am-9.30am.

Location: Panoramic Steps.

YO G Outdoor Fitness at Stavros Niarchos Throughout September and October, you can choose from morning or evening exercise options at one of the SNFCC’s fantastic outdoor spaces (and if you’ve never dabbled with holistic practices like yoga or pilates, it’s a great opportunity to test them out, whatever your fitness level):

A

MAT PILATES

Improve your flexibility, strength, posture, elasticity and balance at energizing outdoor Pilates sessions suitable for men and women of all ages and levels. Practice takes place on a mat, using props, such as rings, resistance bands and balls. Like yoga, Pilates also helps to improve mood, reduce fatigue symptoms and eliminate stress. To attend, take your own mat.

Times: Mondays at 8.00am-9.00am; Wednesdays at 8.00am-9am, 7.00-8.00pm and 8.00pm-9.00pm; Thursdays at 7.00-8.00pm and 8.00pm-9.00pm; and Fridays at 8.00pm-9.00pm.

Location: The Great Lawn.

FITNESS & WELLNESS

For more cardio-minded types, you can access experienced fitness instructors daily, each morning and evening, at the outdoor gym (between 7.30am-9.30am and 6.30pm-9.30pm) who can offer advice and training recommendations and provide a personal fitness evaluation.

Sign up for a personalised program including aerobic exercise, muscle enhancement, flexibility exercises and rehabilitation.

Location : The Running Track.

Visit www.snfcc.org for more information on all of these events.

insider athens | 63

Poetry on a plate The chefs at Cookoovaya don’t rely on Instagram posts to tell the stories of their lives. They use the dinner plate. And whatever’s on the menu, it’ll tell a story and it’ll be delicious, maybe even transcendent.

Cookoovaya's dream team

T

he mood here is always one of an unending celebration. Not a raucous, unruly frat party but a convivial gathering feting the Greek spirit: glasses clinking, laughter ringing through the air, animated conversations, waiters bustling about with sizzling fillets, diners coveting each other’s dishes, aromas from the open kitchen wafting through the air, a vibrant feast.

When Cookoovaya opened its doors in 2014, with the Athenian owl as its inspiration, not everyone bought their tag line of wise cuisine.

With a concentration of more culinary talent per square metre than any other restaurant, critics wondered if they hadn’t heeded any wise counsel at all (too many chefs killing the broth and all that..). Five enormously talented chefs including twice Michelin-awarded Nikos Karathanos, brothers and meat artists, Spyros and Vangelis Liakos, master flavor manipulator Pericles Koskinas, and intrepid experimenter Manos Zournatzis share the restaurant’s kitchen to churn out some truly inspired gastronomic wizardry.

Skeptics predicted that sooner rather than later their chemistry would get tangled up with their egos and argued that their distinctive culinary approaches would get in the way of a cohesive menu. And yet, Cookoovaya seems to have silenced the cynics and seduced foodies with, for want of a better phrase, wise cuisine.

Simple, seasonal, flavourful fare with huge doses of sagacity and down-to-earth goodness, the philosophy here is ‘not just about eating but of experiencing’. It is an approach that respects the cooking process, service and hospitality with imagination to poetically com-

bine the sun-kissed ingredients that Greece is naturally blessed with.

Rooted in the Greek principle of kerasma, it’s hospitality through an incredible meal, of friends sharing dishes, sampling, tasting, enjoying. The menu changes with the season, and the kitchen continually evolves.

The central open kitchen dominates the restaurant providing a live stage for the five chefs to put on a theatrical performance. A seven metre high vertical wine wall at the entrance immediately underscores the central role that wine plays here. The house wines here – in four varieties – the indigenous Assyrtiko and Malagouzia, Syrah Rosé and Red Merlot have been bottled by Yiannis Girlemis vineyards exclusively for the restaurant.

The norm here is anti-stuffy, no rules, no manuals, no shoulds. This review does not cover any of the exquisite dishes on the menu simply because we concur with the restaurant’s philosophy: ‘you need to remember how you felt, not what you ate’.

Open daily from 1 pm to 1 am, Cookoovaya is a terrific central location to take your business clients or first-timers to for an informal, elegant dining experience.

info Cookoovaya | wise cuisine 2A Hatzigianni Mexi str., Athens, Tel: 210.723.5005 info@cookoovaya.gr

Glyfada’s New King of Bling

66 | insider athens

Gastronomy

Dubbed as a departure from other lounge restaurant bars in the area, Glyfada’s swanky new arrival Blends (run by the same peeps as Moorings in Vouliagmeni) puts a contemporary spin on Mediterranean fare with a side-order of high-art. Sudha Nair-Iliades dons her glad rags to test it out.

G

lyfada’s shiniest newest kid on the block Blends is the perfect gathering place for shared plates with friends, late beats and an exuberant city vibe that just won’t quit.

Dressed up in muted shades of grey with pops of neon green, Blends boasts a collection of over 400 rare and artisan wines and spirits, meticulously curated by sommelier Alexandros Papadopoulos to provoke envy among his Glyfada counterparts .

Master mixologist Myrsini Spaneli then takes these top-shelf tipples and weaves them into cleverly-crafted signature cocktails that have their own inspired alchemy when combined with the seasonal menus that are brimming with fresh kitchen produce. Match that with tasty tapas dishes fresh from Blend’s top-of-the-line Josper grill and the party quickly warms up.

Chef Kostas Lolas’ (who earned his spurs at Porto Sani, Halkidiki) delivers another adventure right to your table. His pedigree and passion for flavour and technique drive a food philosophy that combines healthy Mediterranean influences with the best of contemporary dining. (Our table roamed diversely across the menu’s offerings and relished all of our picks: quinoa salad with salmon and guacamole sauce, chicken tikka, and wild mushroom risotto with gorgonzola and black truffle).

In keeping with its motto of ‘blending the senses’, Blends joins the ‘Art a la carte’ movement with a winning collaboration with Artion Galleries. It’s a clever move which adds character but also makes perfect business sense: what better way to gently coax a captive audience of potential clients to slowly fall for artworks over a glass or three of wine!

The Blends Philosophy is “see, feel, taste, smell & listen” and visitors to this high-spec establishment, designed by architects Molindris + Associates, are encouraged to tour the various Blends spaces and enjoy multiple choices at all times of the day, depending on your mood. Old world sybarites will adore the upstairs Prive Cigar Lounge; a real den of indulgence with its cushy armchairs, mood lighting and cosy fireplace. Expect to pay around € 35-50 per person for a fulsome Blends experience.

info Blends, Foivis 19, Plateia Nymphon, Glyfada.

Tel: 211.182.1711.

insider athens | 67

All-Day French Glamour at De Counti Halandri’s classy De Counti has been a favourite go-to destination for an upscale date night, a celebratory milestone – or a standout evening for the capital’s bon vivants.

This week, it re-opens as the ultimate allday hangout for coffee, lunch, cocktails and dinner, with an expanded menu and cocktail list and cosy lounge tunes.

F

or several years now, Halandri’s classy De Counti has successfully serviced a discerning northern crowd with an enticing blend of artful cuisine and sleek Gallic ambiance.

The finest dining choice on this stretch of Kifissias Ave, De Counti has been a favourite go-to destination for an upscale date night, a celebratory milestone – or a stand-out evening for the capital’s bon vivants.

The all-day menu is devoted to classic and internationally-tilted French dishes (such as Chateaubriand bernaise, crab guacamole salad, salmon tartare and fish soup), accompanied by interesting Greek and international wine labels from an abundant cellar. Meanwhile, striking high-aesthetic interiors by renowned New York designer Rene Issaris, characterised by black-on-black wood and leather and a marble bar centrepiece, bring to mind a luxury SUV. This week, in an exciting new chapter, De Counti will re-open its doors (from September 14) as the ultimate all-day hangout for coffee, lunch, cocktails and dinner. The existing evening menu will be enhanced with some new additions, while a lunch menu serving lighter cuisine choices such as salads and quiches will also be on offer, alongside a creatively-rebooted cocktail list.

The bar and restaurant, to now be in service from 11am until 2am daily, will also feature atmospheric lounge music and live sets from Athens’ DJ Jimmy to further elevate your dining experience.

info De Counti, Leof. Kifissias 222, Halandri, 210.674.2229, Find them on Facebook

68 | insider athens

Insider guide restaurant index by type

refer to corresponding area for more information and contact details

AMERICAN

TGI FRIDAY’S The Burger Joint The Burger Joint

Kolonaki Glyfada Psychico

BAR - RESTAURANTS

21 Restaurant Kifissia 360 Cocktail Bar Monistiraki 42 bar Syntagma 48 Urban Garden Mavili Sq 9 Syntagma A for Athens Monistiraki Abariza Syntagma Abaroriza Pangrati Acropolis Museum Restaurant Acropolis Apsendi Halandri BABA AU RUM Syntagma BACARO Omonia BALTHAZAR Mavili Sq BARAONDA Mavili Sq Barley Cargo Syntagma Beer Time Psyrri Bios Gazi BLACK DUCK Syntagma Booze Cooperativa Psyrri Café Zoe Syngrou CASH Kifissia CINCO Kolonaki Couleur Locale Monistiraki CV Bar Keramikos Drunk Sinatra Syntagma En Plo Vouliagmeni Explorer’s Lounge Syntagma Gazarte Gazi HIDE & SEEK Halandri HOLY SPIRIT Glyfada Hoxton Bar Gazi ISLAND Vouliagmeni KITCHEN BAR Faliro MoMix Gazi NIXON Kerameikos NoËl Plaka OSTERMAN Syntagma PARKO ELEFTHERIAS Mavili Sq PIXI Gazi SEMIRAMIS RESTAURANT Kifissia SHOWROOM Kolonaki Socialista Gazi Sofa Bar Vouliagmeni Spollati Monastiraki Step by step Halandri Stinking Bishops Kolonaki The Clumsies Plaka THE GIN JOINT Syntagma Throubi Plaka Toy Café Plaka Underdog Thiseio

BEER RESTAURANTS

Silly Wizards

Ag. Paraskevi

CHINESE

China’s Fantasy Psychico Golden Phoenix Kifissia Keep Woking Glyfada NAMA Ag. Paraskevi Noodle Bar Syntagma NUI Kifissia Saipan Halandri Wagamama Maroussi

FISH

Ai Nikolas

Syngrou

CAPTAIN JOHN’S Piraeus DOURAMpEIS Piraeus Dourampeis Oyster Psychiko Fish Co. Platters Psychico ITHAKI Vouliagmeni KOLLIAS Piraeus JIMMY AND THE FISH Piraeus KASTELORIZO Kifissia MILOS Hilton MYTHOS OF THE SEA Vouliagmeni Nikolas tis schinousas Glyfada Nisson Gi Ag. Paraskevi Ocean Basket Glyfada PAPADAKIS Kolonaki Papaioannou Pireaus Piperia Psychico RAFALE Vouliagmeni Sardelaki Glyfada THALATTA Gazi ZEFYROS Piraeus Trata Omonia TRATA O STELIOS Pangrati VASSILENAS Hilton

FRENCH

ARTISANAL Kifissia avenue Syngrou Blue Pine Kifissia Gaspar Food and Mood Psychico L’ABREUVOIR Kolonaki MONO WINE RESTAURANT Plaka SPIROS & VASILIS Kolonaki SPONDI Pangrati Tartare Glyfada

GOURMET

ALERIA Kerameikos Aneton Maroussi AVENUE Syngrou Bo Botrini’s Halandri CTC Hilton Fuga Mavili Sq Funky Gourmet Kerameikos WHYTRA Syngrou KOOL LIFE Kifissia KUZINA Thissio MODERN Acropolis Orizontes Lycavyttou Kolonaki Pasaji Syntagma Polly Maggoo Metaxurgeio PremiEre Syngrou VAROULKO Piraeus

GREEK

2 MAZI Plaka 310 Street Psychico ANETON Maroussi Archeon Gefsis Metaxurgeio ATHIRI Kerameikos ATRIUM Acropolis Berdema Kifissia Bluefield Burger Psychico Dioskouroi Psychico DIPORTO Psyrri ELAIαS GI Kifissia Feedέλ Urban GASTRONOMY Syntagma IDEAL Omonia KAVOURAS Exarhia Krithamos Psychico MANI MANI Acropolis MELILOTOS Monastiraki

OLIVE GARDEN Monastiraki Pallas Athena Monastiraki PSOMI & ALATI Halandri RAKOKAZANO Halandri PROSOPA Gazi Rena tis Ftelias Psychico THIO TRAGI Petralona TO KOUTI Monastiraki YANTES Exarhia YDRIA Plaka

GRILL

1920 Halandri Telemachos Bbq Club Kifissia steak-i Ag.Paraskevi

INDIAN

Indian CHEF Indian HAVELI Indian Kitchen Indian Masala Indi-GO JAIPUR PALACE KOHENOOR

Syngrou Syngrou Syntagma Thissio Glyfada Kifissia Gazi

INTERNATIONAL

All Senses GASTRONOMY Glyfada BAKU Vouliagmeni BUBA Kifissia CHEFI’S Halandri Cosa Nostra Monastiraki Food Mafia Glyfada Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissia La Pierrade Kolonaki Los loros Syntagma Nikkei Kolonaki nolan Syntagma Pere Ubu Glyfada THE BIG KAHUNA Gazi

ITALIAN

30 SOMETHING Halandri AGLIO OLIO Acropolis AL BACIO Vouliagmeni Albion Psychico Al Dente Glyfada AL FRESCO Vouliagmeni Aperitivo Glyfada BALLARO Voula Capanna Kolonaki Codice Blu Kolonaki DA BRUNO Faliro DA VINCI Ag. Paraskevi Dal Professore Maroussi DULCIS IN FUNDO Voula Il Salotto Glyfada Il Salumaio D’ATENE Kifissia LA CASA DI GIORGINO Glyfada Malconi’s Kolonaki MARGHERITA Kifissia Matilde Pizza Bar Psychico Nanninela Ag. Paraskevi nomi Glyfada Ombra Psychico Pausa Maroussi Sale Bianco da Glyfada Salvotoro SALE E PEPE Kolonaki SCALA VINOTECA Kolonaki TONY BONANO Piraeus Tutti a tavola Kolonaki

Tuttitalia VEZENE Vespa Rosa VINCENZO

Kolonaki Hilton Pangrati Glyfada

JAPANESE

FURIN KAZAN Syntagma Hama Glyfada KIKU Kolonaki Koi Syntagma, Voula MATSUHISA ATHENS Vouliagmeni OOZORA Kifissia RAKKAN Kifissia SUBA Kifissia SUSHIMOU Syntagma Tomoe Kifissia Yoko Sushi & Bento Kolonaki

KOREAN

Dosirak

Syntagma

KOSHER

Gostijo

Psyrri

LEBANESE

FALAFELLAS NARGILE SUZANNA

Psyrri Kifissia Faliro

MEDITERRANEAN

BYZANTINO Hilton CAFE AVISSINIA Monastiraki Common Secret Kifissia DAPHNE’S RESTAURANT Plaka FATSIO Pangrati GB CORNER Syntagma HYTRA Plaka IDEAL RESTAURANT Omonia KOUZINA CINE-PSIRRI Psyrri MALABAR Vouliagmeni MAVRO PROVATO Pangrati Mimaya Glyfada OCHRE & BROWN Psyrri PARLIAMENT Syntagma P.S. PECORA Psychico RATKA Kolonaki STOU MEIDANI Monastiraki THE DALLIANCE HOUSE Kifissia TO KOUTI Monastiraki TORTUGA Pangrati TRAPEZARIA Pangrati VOSPOROS Piraeus ZORBAS Piraeus

MEZEDES AND OUZO

MULTI ETHNIC

Altamira Altamira

Psychico Omonia Kolonaki Thissio Kolonaki Plaka

Kolonaki Marousi

Kifissia Plaka

PERSIAN

ANAHITA

Halandri

PUB RESTAURANTS

KEG ‘N’ CREW MOLLY MALONE’S THE JAMES JOYCE

Piraeus Glyfada Thissio

ROOFTOP DINING

ELECTRA Plaka IOANNIS Syntagma LE GRAND BALCON Kolonaki ORIZONTES LYKAVYTTOU Kolonaki ST’ASTRA Mavili Sq

SOUVLAKIA AND KEBAB

BAIRAKTARIS Monastiraki BUTCHER’S SHOP Gazi Gourounakia Kifissias Kifissia KALAMAKI KOLONAKI Kolonaki Kebabtzidikon Barbadimos Nea Smyrni SAVVAS Monastiraki Souvlaki Bar Thissio THANASSIS Monastiraki

SCANDINAVIAN

SAFKA

Kerameikos

SPANISH

JAMON PINTXOS BAR Glyfada LA GABINOTECA Kifissia SALERO Exarhia

TAVERNAS

FILIpPOU Kolonaki Gaidaros Ag. Paraskevi IPIROS TAVERN Psyrri Kolovos Ag. Paraskevi O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas Kifissia, Syntagma VLASSIS Hilton

THAI

ANDAMAN BLUE BAMBOO ROUAN THAI ROYAL THAI TAMARIND

Petralona Petralona Piraeus Kifissia Metaxourgeio

TURKISH

MEXICAN

AMIGOS Glyfada DOS HERMANOS Kifissia EL TACO BUENO Halandri GREXICO MEXICAN STREET FOOD Monastiraki Syntagma Taqueria Maya

Antaios ATHINAIKON CINCO KIRKI OUZADIKO SCHOLARHEIO

BUBA LA PANTERA NEGRA

Mutfak

VEGETARIAN

Avocado MAMMA TIERRA NICE N EASY TO VAZAKI yi

WINE BARS

By The Glass FABRICA DE VINO HETEROCLITO Kiki’s de Grece OINOSCENT Vinifera Vrettos Whispers of wine VINARTE

Glyfada Syntagma Omonia Kolonaki Halandri Glyfada Syntagma Exarhia Syntagma Syntagma Syntagma Kifissia Plaka Maroussi Glyfada

insider athens | 69

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

EAT

Peloponnissou 13, Tel: 210.600.5622 Authentic Italian cuisine in traditional decor

Acropolis Museum Restaurant

Νisson Gi

Dionysiou Arepagaitou 15, Tel: 210.900.0915, Authentic Greek dishes right across from the Acropolis itself

Mesogeion Ave. 356, Tel: 210.651.1354 Island flavours with an urban twist

Steak-I

Korai Sq 2-4, Tel: 213.037.0700 Strictly for carnivores!

Atrium

Rovertou Galli 4, Tel: 210.923.6832 Refined Greek cuisine in a cosy setting

Indian Chef

Athanasiou Diakou 22, Tel: 210.923.6336, Authentic Indian cuisine in great central location.

EAT

Exarhia

Porinou 13, Tel: 210.921.1801 Authentic Italian pasta in a cozy setting, accompanied by luscious salads and homemade dolci

Chez Violette

Kallidromiou 69, Tel: 210.384.5974, Travel to France with wonderful French fare and wines (and live music every Tuesday).

Fabrica de Vino

Syngrou Ave. 12, Tel: 210.924.4522 Sumptuous Indian dishes in an exotic

Em. Benaki 3, Tel: 210.321.4148, 85 wine etiquettes and mini mezzes in an industrial environment

and romantic environment.

Salero

Indian Haveli

Valtetsiou 51, Tel: 210.381.3358, Spanish and mediterranean cuisine in the heart of Exarhia

Mani Mani

Falirou 10, Tel: 210.921.8180 Peloponnesian specialities with Mediterranean touches

Yantes

Valtetsiou 44, Tel: 210.330.1369 Modern Greek cuisine prepared with organic ingredients.

Rovertou Galli 4a, Tel: 210.923 6832 Stylish rooftop cocktail-and-dining den with creative menu and stellar Acropolis views.

SENSE Fine Dining A Restaurant cc

la

imed Athens Was Hotel Chef Dionysiou Arepagaitou 5,Thodo r i s P a p aniko Tel: 210.920.0240

Ag.Paraskevi

EAT

Ellinoservikis Filias 52, Tel: 210.600.4724 A hidden courtyard with home-cooked cuisine

Kolovos

Peloponessou 75, Tel: 210.651.0989 Several reasons to visit, but its succulent spare ribs top the list

Silly Wizards

Peloponessou 79, Tel: 210.654.3908 Great selection of beers and Mexican finger food

Da Vinci

Ag. Ioannou 23, Tel: 210.600.0102 Delightful dishes in fantastic ambience Kyprou 50, Tel: 210.600.8936 Asian fusion cuisine with 20€ sushi buffet on Mon-Tue and 15€ Chinese buffet on Wed-Thu

70 | insider athens

Vox

Themistokleous 82 Tel: 210.381.0727 One of the oldest summer cinemas in Athens is a picturesque place for a retrotinged drink

laou a t the helm

Gaidaros

Nama

DRINK

Faliro

Point α

Warehouse

Valtetsiou 21 Tel: 215.540.8002 A cosy and refined wine bar that’s long been a neighbourhood favourite.

EAT Bouillabaisse

Zisimopoulou 28, Tel: 210.942 5203

Da Bruno

Ag. Alexandrou 46, Tel: 210.981.8959 Rich list with Italian flavours

DruiD Afroditis 57, Tel: 210.984.8151 Cosmic European and international flavours dished up in a high-aesthetic environment.

Il Tinello

Knossou 54, Tel: 210.982.8462 Real Italian home cookin

Sense Fine Dining Restaurant

Kitchen Bar

Poseidonos 3, Tel: 210.981.2004 Comfort food overlooking the sea

Suzanna

Orpheus & Chariton 5, Tel: 210.942.8129 Authentic Middle Eastern cuisine

DRINK Zinc

“Flisvos” Marina, Tel: 210.985.3183 Cocktails whith music

EAT The Big Kahuna

Salaminos 42, Tel: 210.524.4100 Exotic street food

Butcher’s Shop

Persefonis 19, Tel: 210.341.3440, Traditional psistaria serving grilled meat dishes

Prosopa

Meg. Vasiliou 52 & Konstantinoupoleos 4 Tel: 210.341.3433, Delicious dishes in a warm atmosphere right beside the train tracks. A popular gay haunt.

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Bios

Pireos 84, Tel: 210.342.5335 An avant-garde multi-level venue housing a bar, a basement club, art exhibitions, music venues, and a rooftop garden

Hoxton Bar

Voutadon 42, Tel: 210.341.3395, A cocktail bar based on Hoxton in East London

Gazarte

Boutadon 32-34, Tel: 210.346.0347 Lounge bar with excellent views of the Acropolis, ethnic music and live events

Gasoline

Gargittion 23Α, Tel: 210.346.9396 All day bar with freestyle music and interesting guest-nights

MoMix

Keleou 1-5, Tel: 697.435.0179, Temple of mixology and high-quality bartending

PIXI

Evmolpidon 11, Tel: 210.342.3751 Get in to the groove

Plastiko

Sofroniou 12A, Tel: 210.341.0308 Excellent cocktails, reasonable prices, summer mood

Socialista Triptolemou 33, Tel: 210.347.4733 Mainstream bar-club in industrial setting

EAT

Glyfada

Aglio Olio & Peperonicino

Gazi

Acropolis

Nanninela

Bakeries & Patisseries Paul

Esperidon Square and Kyprou 70, Tel: 210.894.7169, A real French boulangerie that serves meals too.

Restaurants All Senses Gastronomy

Lazaraki 12, Tel: 210.898.0080 Lives up to its name of tickling your senses.

Aperitivo

Kyprou 70, Tel: 210.894.0377 Authentic Italian cuisine in a cosy Micheli setting

n Jerome Chef S erre Grigoriou Lambraki 2,work s his m s Tel: 210.894.8882 agic Ark

Chef Yiannis Baxevanis brings Miamiinspired opulence to Glyfada

Blends

Foivis 19 & Laodikis, Tel: 211.1821711, New high-concept dining space with day to night propositions including cigar lounge

Giouvetsakia

Ithomis 20 and Moreos, Tel: 210.964.8081, Organic mageirefta food

Hama

YI RECOMMENDS Antioxidant smoothie with strawberry and chia seeds.

Grigoriou Lambraki 34, Tel: 210.960.0595, Sophisticated Japanese cuisine in a cosy setting

Holy Spirit

Laodikis 41, Tel: 210.898.2650 Cocktail Bar with great menu and beautiful atmosphere

Il Salotto

Ingredients: 200 gm strawberries 150 gm of almond milk 1 tbsp of honey or maple syrup 10 gm of chia seeds 4-5 ice cubes

Markou Botsari 13, Tel: 210.894.8397 Minimal décor, elegant Italian fare

Indi-Go

Konstantinoupoleos 15, Tel: 210.968. 0643, Southside Indian favourite with festive décor and goodvalue Sunday buffet.

Jamon Pintxos Bar

Laodikis 33-35, Tel: 210.894.6089 Basque “pinchos” in a cozy setting

Keep Woking

La Casa Di Giorgino

Kyprou 30-32, Tel: 210.963.8770 Authentic Italian pizza made in a traditional wood-burning oven

Mimaya

Markou Botsari 8, Tel: 210.894.4850 Creative Mediterranean cuisine.

Molly Malone’s

Yannitsopoulou 8, Tel: 210.894.4247 Irish pub serving probably the best Irish Stew in Athens

Mutfak

Laodikis 38, Tel: 210.894.9060 Politiki Kouzina in a romantic setting

Nikolas tis schinousas

Diadohou Pavlou 48, Tel: 210.894.9550 Chic Greek fish tavern along Glyfada’s seafront.

Nomi Italian Restaurant

Laodikis 47, Tel: 210.898.6015 Terrific Italian fare at great prices

Soleto

Laodikis 33, Tel: 210.968.0460 Stylish year-round hotspot for lunch, coffee, dinner or drinks in fashionable Laodikis.

Su Casa

Kyprou 82, Tel: 210.898.5554 Authentic Mexican food paired with any type of tequila you could want

Spiti

Lazaraki 12, Tel: 210.898.0080 A perfect place for a family meal with great food and cocktails

Tartare

Al. Panagouli 52, Tel: 210.968.0320 Gourmet French cuisine that draws regulars.

The Burger Joint

Foivis 17, Tel: 210.894.0260 NY style, organic burgers in a casual and relaxed environment.

Vincenzo

Giannitsopoulou 1, Tel: 210.894.1310 Value for money Italian specialities with a Southern Italian touch

Yi

the AlB Grigoriou Lampraki 69, acioTel: 210.964.8512, Vegan-raw based t e a m Kyprou 48, Tel: 210.898.6049 move menu with lactose, sugar and glutens All-day venue with retro environment to free offerings and friendly atmosphere.

Glyfad a and classic brunch offerings.

Oh Mama

Pere Ubu

Kyprou 74, Tel: 211.215.8737 Fab burgers, great cocktails, right next to the sprawling UBU organic store

Psaraki

Lazaraki 10 & Dousmani 14, Tel: 210.968.0040, Mediterranean seafood.in friendly setting

Sardelaki

Foivis 15, Tel: 211.402.1195 Sardines and seafood in a casual setting.

Sale Bianco da Salvotoro

Markou Botsari 10A, Tel: 210.898.6301, Authentic Italian food in an inviting atmosphere

CreperieS To Paramythi

Kyprou 9, Tel: 210.894.1361 Creperie in a fairy-tale setting

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Balux

Mikro

Laodikis 33-35, Tel: 210.894.1031 Minimal decor with well-known Greek DJs

Vinarte

Marangou 18, Tel: 210.894.1511 A wine bar and Italian restaurant with regular art exhibitions and cool decor

EAT

Halandri

Dimitriou Gounari 70, Tel: 211.012.2801, Create-your-own Asian cuisine, fast and funky

30 something

Iroon Sq 8, Tel: 210.689.9227 Pizza and cocktail bar in a San Franscisco atmosphere

Anahita

Chr. Smirnis 3, Tel: 210.689.1222 The only place in Athens to try authentic Persian dishes

Bo Botrini’s

Vasileos Georgiou B 24b, Tel: 210.685.7323 Athens’ best table by far

Chapeau

Sokratous 4,Tel: 210.684.5300, Une cuisine primée

Chefi’s

Perikleous 31, Tel: 210.681.5774 Refined cuisine with international flavours and regular wine tastings

DeCounti

Kifissias Av. 222, Tel: 210.674.2229, All-day Gallic glamour devoted to classic and internationally-tilted French dishes

El Taco Bueno

Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.3577 Waterfront lounging

Aristotelous 84,Tel: 210.684.0460, Mexican flavours in a traditional setting

Bourbon

Saipan

Daskaroli 67, Tel: 210.964.7600 American style bar with rock, blues, soul music and live events

K. Varnali 9, Tel: 210.685.0644 Exquisite dishes from China, Japan and Indonesia

After washing the strawberries well, transfer all the ingredients to the blender until you get the desired texture.

This smoothie is an even split of 30% antioxidants, 30% Omega fat and 30% protein. Chia seeds were considered so special, the Aztecs offered them as a gift to their gods.

Psomi & Alati

Eleftherioton Sq 8, Tel: 210.684.8178 Gastronomic paradise serving Greek dishes with a modern twist

Τo Vazaki - juice bar

Aristotelous 33, Tel: 210.680.0067 Juice bar with a seasonal menu, fresh, vegan, gluten free, raw blends, dine in or delivered by bike.

Wine Not

Kalogrezis 12, Tel: 210.670.02945 Industrial setting with eclectic wine list

DRINK Hide & Seek

Kifisias 254, Tel: 210.677.6747 Great drink menu and perfect garden for spring and summer

Spiti Cocktail Bar

Αndrea Papantreou 9, Tel: 210.683.3677 Great cocktails and sophisticated jazz tunes

insider athens | 71

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

EAT

Hilton

O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas

Drosini 12-14, Tel: 210.623.0080 A modern taverna serving traditional dishes at reasonable prices

Vassilenas

Vrassida 13, Tel: 210.721.0501 Exquisite Greek specialties

Paul

Levidou 3, Tel: 210.808.4288 French boulangerie

Byzantino

Athens Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1400 Traditional Greek recipes with a Mediterranean twist

Royal Thai

Zirini 12, Tel: 210.623.2323 Thai cuisine in an opulent setting

Semiramis Restaurant

Cookoovaya

Oumplianis 14 & Dioharous 27, Tel: 210.722.8812, Different 6 course menus every night, with exceptional quality!

Leilimlei

Baltinon 2, Tel: 211.700.9383 A culinary melting pot of east meets west.

Milos

Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.724.4400, Simply prepared local flavours. Guaranteed value for money

Tapas Bar

Ventiri 7, Tel: 210.721.2080 Cocktails and tapas at the bar, just like in Spain

Vezene

Vrasida 11, Tel: 210.723.2002 Modern bistrot serving seafood & cured beef

Vlassis

Meandrou 15, Tel: 210.646.3060 & 210.725.6335, Family-run taverna serving traditional Greek food

DRINK Galaxy Bar

Athens Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1402, Rooftop cocktails in a chic atmosphere

Kerameikos

EAT Aleria

Leonidou 80 & Salaminos, Tel: 210.524.1120, Gourmet cuisine in a post-modern setting.

Seychelles

Keramikou 49, Tel: 211.183.4789 Greek cuisine with seasonal menu.

Tamarind

Keramikou 51, Tel: 210.522.5945 Thai food in a beautiful setting

DRINK CV Bar

Chatzigianni Mexi 7, Tel: 210.7231767, A classic bar with superb knowledge and love for spirits and jazz music.

Nixon

Agisilaou 61B, Tel: 210.346.2077 Top Athenian hedonist hangout for the 30-something crowd.

EAT 21 Restaurant

Kolokotroni 21, Tel: 210.623.352, Highly recommended.

Refined al-fresco dining with excellent service

Artisanal

Zirini 2, Tel: 693.614.4744 Unique lounge & garden with exceptional classy touch

Berdema

Skiathou 3 & Strofiliou, Tel: 210.620.1108, Family restaurant with Mediterranean fare

Meg. Alexandrou 57, Tel: 210.522.2633 Adventurous Greek cuisine in a cosy setting

Blue Pine

Athiri

Papadiamanti 4, Tel: 210.623.1151 Mixing pot of cuisines from around the world

Plataion 15, Tel: 210.346.2983 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine in beautiful surroundings

Funky Gourmet

Paramythias 13 & Salaminos, Tel: 210.524.2727, Haute cuisine in art deco interior

72 | insider athens

P.Tsaldari 37, Tel: 210.807.7745 A hark back to retro Athens

Buba

Different Beast

Kassaveti 19, Tel: 216.700.4556 Urban chic meets rustic flair with original brunch offerings.

Dos Hermanos

Kyriazi 24, Tel: 210.808.7906 Excellent Mexican food & super margaritas

Elaias Gi

Dexamenis & Olimpionikon 4, Tel: 210.620.6433, The authenticity of Greek cuisine with stunning views of the city

Golden Phoenix

Harilaou Trikoupi & Gortinias Tel: 210.801.3588, Chinese classic popular for the brunch buffet

Suba

Levidou 11, Tel: 210.808.5586 A blend of traditional and modern Japanese cuisine

Telemachos Barbeque Club

Fragkopoulou 22, Tel: 210.807.6680 Rare meats char-grilled to perfection

The Dalliance House

Kyriazis 19, Tel: 210.623.0775 The 19th century meets the 21st in beautiful setting, with successful recipes

The Wilbury

Kifisias 238, Tel: 210.808.9454, A food-centric gastropub with eclectic Greek beers.

Jaipur Palace

DRINK

Kastelorizo

ESCOBA

Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Specially-prepared Italian meals Kifissias 222, Tel: 210.808.8318 Indian cuisine and fine wines Platanon 2, Tel: 210.807.5408 Part of a chain of upscale seafood restaurants that is sure to please

Kool Life

Life Gallery, Thiseos 103, Tel: 211.106.7400, Innovative cuisine in a cool restaurant cum deli

La Gabinoteca

Th. Diligianni 56, Tel: 210.808.3988 Tapas bar with decadent atmosphere

Margherita

Kifisias 363, Tel: 211.408.1132 Fantastic pizza made with local ingredients from all over Greece

Nargile

Harilaou Trikoupi 50, Tel: 210.808.3333 Lebanese cuisine in a cosmopolitan ambience

Nolita

Semiramis Hotel, Harilaou. Trikoupi 48, Tel: 210.623.1181, High-quality Italian cuisine, delicious cocktails, hip urban setting.

Common Secret

Oozora

Kifissias 324, Tel: 210.623.3810 Coffee and light Mediterranean meals in a pleasant setting

Vasilissis Amalias 20, Tel: 210.801.3853 Imaginative Greek cuisine in a romantic garden setting.

Il Salumaio di Atene

Cash

Diligianni 54, Tel: 212.100.4772 Cosmopolitan hang-out with upscale Mediterranean cuisine

Stoffa

Agiou Trifonos 15, Tel: 210.801.8515 Japanese-Thai fusion Restaurant

Patr. Maximou 1, Tel: 210.623.3550, Burgers, steaks, Tex-Mex fast food, plus Latin music & dance nights in a vibrant US-style hangout.

Mento CafĂŠ

Ag. Theodorou 10, Tel: 210.808.0193 Traditional home turned stylish cafe

Vinifera

Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.807.7709 Selection of wines from all over the world

Food & Wine

Kolonaki

CTC

Semiramis Hotel, Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Tel: 210.628.4500 Mediterranean cuisine in a hip atmosphere

Vassilenas

Polly Maggoo

Kifissia

Hatziyianni Mexi 2A, Tel: 210.723.5005 5 famous chefs combine their talents to create unique flavors.

Cellier

Kifissias 369, Tel: 210.801.8756 By far, one of the best cellars stocking the finest labels in town

EAT Bakeries & Patisseries Cake

Irodotou 15, Tel: 210.721.2253, For real American homemade cheesecake, brownies and more

Fresh

Malconi’s

Restaurants

Mayor

Kolokotroni 35, Tel: 210.623.3945, American restaurant with real steak and barbecuesauce for casual dining!

Nice n Easy

Valaoritou 14, Tel: 210.338.9669 An authentic and hospitable Italian trattoria

Omirou 36, Tel: 210.360.8018 Welcoming nook with Greek cooking and more-ish cocktails

Capanna

Ploutarchou 38 & Charitos, Kolonaki Tel: 210.724.1777 People-watching and authentic Italian fare

Cinco

Skoufa 52, Tel: 210.364.3603 Great cocktails and specialty tapas

Codice Blu

Haritos & Loukianou, Tel: 210.723.0896, Italian cuisine, great for family brunches and peoplewatching.

Filippou

Xenokratous 19, Tel: 210.721.6390 Home-cooked Greek taverna dishes

Freud Oriental

Xenokratous 21,Tel: 210.729.9595 Creative fusion cuisine

IT restaurant

Skoufa 29, Tel: 210.363.5773, Affordable gourmet menu in a chic environment.

Izakaya

Leventi 5, Tel: 210.724.4406, Cosy Japanese fusion with cocktails for all tastes.

Kalamaki Kolonaki

Ploutarhou 32, Tel: 210.721.8800 Souvlakia on the sidewalk have never been so trendy

L’Abreuvoir

Xenokratous 51, Tel: 210.722.9106 Fine French cuisine

La Pierrade

Spefsippou 30, Tel: 210.723.7297 Elegant setting, refined cuisine, extremely polite service.

La Suite Lounge

St George Lycabettus Hotel, Kleomenous 2, Tel: 210.741.6000 Gourmet Greek cuisine

Filikis Eterias, Sq 19 Tel: 210.364.8156, Elegant and modern all-day restaurant and bar in a lively Kolonaki Square.

Omirou 60 & Skoufa, Tel.: 210.361.7201 Gourmet cafe-restaurant with organic products and jazz music

Nikkei

Leventi 3, Tel: 210.723.9366 Peruvian aromas and flavours in Kolonaki!

TGI Friday’s

Tuttitalia

Yoleni’s

Solonos 9, Tel: 212.222.3600, Multi-floored Greek Gastronomy emporium with olive oil tastings, cooking seminars and garden café.

Zurbaran,

Orizontes Lycavyttou

Patriarchou Ioakim 38, Tel: 210.723.8334, A past-meetsfuture food and décor concept.

Papadakis

DRINK

Lycabettus Hill, Tel: 210.722.7065 Gourmet dining with a spectacular view Fokilidou 15 & Voukourestiou 47A Tel: 210.360.8621 Paros’ legendary gourmet restaurant serving seafood in the heart of Athens

Ratka

Haritos 32, Tel: 210.729.0746 Popular haunt of the rich and almost famous, with cosmopolitan cuisine

Barefo ot, DIY Red door yak iniku experie Tsakalof 6, Tel: 210.364.7712 n Authentic Japanese experience ce Sale e Pepe

Aristipou 34, Tel: 210.723.4102 Authentic Italian trattoria

Scala Vinoteca

Sina 50, Tel: 210.361.0041 Mediterranean restaurant ideal for wining & dining

Simul

Ipsilantou 63, Tel: 210.722.4737, A chic but relaxed Kolonaki eaterie with enticing mix ‘n’ match menu.

Spiros & Vasilis

Lachitos 5, Tel: 210.723.7575 Original French cuisine

Stinking Bishops

Loukianou 36, Tel: 213.026.3656 Fashionable gastro pub

EAT Agani

Kifissias 22, Tel: 210.277.7065 Delectable, inspired Greek cuisine

Altamira

Perikleous 28, Tel: 210.612.8841 Multiethnic cuisine in funky environment

Bars, Clubs & Lounges 56

Ploutarchou 56, Tel: 210.723.1424 A quaint jazzy whiskey bar for the discerning

Mai Tai

Ploutarhou 18, Tel: 210.725.8306 Early evening cocktails in a laid-back atmosphere

Skoufaki

Skoufa 47-49, Tel: 210.364.5888 All time classic café bar

T5

Tsakalof 5, Tel: 210.362.1776, A classy all-day bar with tasty Asian-inspired concoctions.

Ten

Ploutarhou 10, Tel: 210.721.0161 One of the most popular hot spots in town

Cafés Da Capo

Tsakalof 1, Tel: 210.360.2497 Long-established people-watching hangout

Peros

Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.364.5068 Enjoy a cup of java if you can find a spot

Tea To Tsai

ToRestaurant IT Tsai

Cookoovaya

Maroussi

Cafe Boheme

Patriarchou Ioakeim 43 & Ploutarxou, Tel: 210.724.8920 Great food, bustling atmosphere.

Soutsou 19, Tel: 210.338.8941 Tea & tea paraphernalia from around the world

Aneton

Stratigou Lekka 19, Tel: 210.806.6700 Traditional cuisine in a comfy-chic setting reminiscent of the 50s & 60s

Dal Professore

Agiou Konstantinou 56, Tel: 210.610.9988, Italian menu with a menu that changes daily!

Mauzac

Alamanas 1, Tel: 210.619.9902 Clean lines and a beautiful garden make this café, bar, restaurant a must

Pausa

Ag. Konstantinou 46 & Ifestou 3 Tel: 210.617.9290 Italian cuisine accompanied by a selection of Greek & Italian wines

Prytaneion

Kifissias Ave, Tel: 210.683.8083 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

Wagamama

Kasaveti 3, Tel: 210.801.3100 Fresh, nutritious Asian fusion food in a sleek yet simple setting

EAT

Mavili Sq

Valaoritou 7, Tel: 210.364.2948 Patr. Ioakeim 9, Tel: 210.729.3453 Desserts and cakes

48 Urban Garden

Armatolon kai Klefton 48, Tel: 210.80.18.515 Cool, minimalist environment and interesting, fusion cuisine.

Cookoovaya

Hatzigianni Mexi 2A Tel: 210.723.5005, Not just a restaurant, a gourmet experience to cherish

Fuga

Vas.Sofias & Kokkali 1, Tel: 210.724.2979, Italian inspired menu by chef Andrea Berton at the Athens Concert Hall

insider athens | 73

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

To Parko Eleftherias

Next to Megaron Mousikis, Tel: 210.722.3784, Classic recipes and nice atmopshere in a lush green park

Monastiraki

DRINK Balthazar

Tsoha 27, Tel: 210.644.1215 Lovely garden and chic interior attracts a cool crowd

Baraonda

Tsoha 43, Tel: 210.644.4308 Gourmet cuisine and funky beats

Briki

Dorileou 6, Tel: 210.654.2380 Trendy hole-in-the-wall hangout

EAT

Bairaktaris

Monastiraki Square 2, Tel: 210.321.3036, Old-world taverna serving traditional Greek fare

Café Avissinia

Kynetou 7, Tel: 210.321.7047 Specializing in regional dishes & live music on weekends

Cosa Nostra

Agias Theklas 5, Tel: 210.331.0900 Excellent Italian food with a 1920’s Chicago retro atmosphere.

Grexico Mexican Street Food Fokionos 4, Tel: 210.331.5540 Tantalising Mexican flavours

Melilotos

Kalamiotou 19, Tel: 210.322.2458 Greek-Mediterranean cuisine with fresh local ingredients

Adrianou 7 & Thisiou 15, Tel: 210.515.0550, Attractive and inviting taverna with healthy fast-food.

Thanassis

Mitropoleos 69, Tel: 210.324.4705 A souvlaki lover’s paradise

Panepistimiou 39 Tel: 210.323.3916, Cheery Mediterranean delicatessen with great sandwiches, salads and service!

Ifestou 2, Tel: 210.321.0006, Roof bar and restaurant right on Monastiraki square with panoramic city and Acropolis views.

Mama Tierra

Akadimias 84, Tel: 211.411.4420, Super tasty vegetarian and vegan fare with a maternal flourish at reasonable prices.

A for Athens

Miaouli 2-4, Tel: 210.324.4244 An urban terrace with the most stunning view of the Acropolis

Olive Garden

Normanou 3, Tel: 206.700.4917 A young scene with great cocktails and affordable finger food overlooking the Acropolis

Spollati

Aiolou 27A, Tel: 215.551.3004 A delicious combination of signature cocktails with homemade syrups and funky Mediterranean cuisine

Taf

Normanou 5, Tel: 210.323.8757 Outdoor bar in a neoclassical building with arty atmosphere and great exhibitions

Aghias Irinis Square 2, Tel: 213.004.9645, Trendy and hip coffee shop and cocktail bar.

Duck Soup

360 Cocktail Bar

Avramiotou 6-8, Tel: 210.321.0510 A day&night cultural entertainment center and bar with a vivid 600m2 back-garden.

Tailor Made

Themistokleous 2, Tel: 210.383.8485 A traditional Greek ouzeri

DRINK

Six Dogs

LIVE BARS

Athinaikon

Adrianou 23, Tel: 210.321.3229 Mediterranean fare right next to the ancient agora

Plateia Avissinias 3, Tel: 210.323.4814 An all day hang-out with good music, cool atmosphere and great views

Mokka

EAT

To Kouti

Loukoumi Bar

DRINK

Athinas 44, Tel: 210.321.6892 Best espresso in town.

Souvlaki Bar

Couleur Locale

CAFes

Hotel Titania, Panepistimiou 52, Tel: 210.332.600. Good food and great view of the Acropolis.

Half Note Jazz Club

Trivonianou 17, Tel: 210.921.3310 A jazz club with great history, hosting important names from the international music scene.

Superfly

Empedokleous 28-30, Tel: 211.404.6076 The new hot spot for retro gamers

EAT Andaman

Alopis 65, Tel: 211.210.4939, Thai food in an exotic setting

Clap The Restaurant

206 Pireos, Tel: 210.341.1908, Meat lovers’ paradise on the top floor of Kakoyiannis foundation.

Blue Bamboo

Athinas 65 & Lykourgou Tel: 210.325.0900. Urban design, organic cuisine, Cretan deli corner

Kidantidon 24, Tel: 210.342.3124, Thai food with modern interior design

Trata

Thio Tragi

Themistokleous 8 and Nikitara 9, Tel: 210.383.8531, Excellent fish taverna in the centre of Athens

CAFes Cosa Nostra

Agias Theklas 3, Tel: 210.331.0900 Excellent Italian food with a 1920’s Chicago retro atmosphere.

EAT Fatsio

Efroniou 5, Tel: 210.721.7421 Greek food & political gossip Ariannou 31, Tel: 210.722.3466 Best value-for-money meal in Athens

Spondi

Pyrronos 5, Tel: 210.756.4021, A mix of European & more exotic flavours. Voted one of the best in Athens

Trapezaria

Efronionos 13, Tel: 210.921.3500, Mediterranean cuisine in chic setting

Trata o Stelios

74 | insider athens

Eratosthenous 33, Tel: 210.701.9530 A pet friendly place with long balcony tables that fill up every night

Pallas Athena

Mavro Provato

Fuga

Abaroriza

Petralona

Alexadras 10, Tel: 210.889.4517 For an unforgettable roof-top dining experience

Ermou 91, Tel: 210.321.1167 Gyros & Middle Eastern dishes like pastourmali

Anagenniseos Sq. 7-9, Tel: 210.729.1533 The best grilled fish in town

Kidantidon 36, Tel: 210.341.0296 Creative gourmet kitchen with high quality ingredients

DRINK Kurios Hou

Yperionos 1 & Dimofontos, Tel: 210.342.3972, Among Petralona’s trendy dining options with attitude.

EAT

Piraeus

St’Astra

Savvas

Omonia

Dorileou 10-12, Tel: 210.645.1169 Original dishes and innovative combinations in an elegant atmosphere

Pangrati

Ginger

1920

Etolikou 72 & Vitolion, Tel: 210.461.2457 Friendly food and atmosphere

Captain John’s

Ak. Koumoundourou 16A, Tel: 210.417.7589 Traditional seafood

Che

Karaiskou 151, Tel: 210.429.6660

Dourambeis

Ak. Protopsalti 29, Tel: 210.412.2092 Classic fish taverna

Akti Themistokleous 36 & Pargas 2, Tel: 210.418.6683, A favorite haven for surf and turf lovers by the creators of Corks & Forks in Piraeus.

Papaioannou

Akti Koumoundourou 42, Tel: 210.422.5059, For Greek fish specialities on the harbourfront.

Rouan Thai

Notara 131, Tel: 210.429.4494, Home-style Thai food

Tony Bonano

Papanastasiou 63, Tel: 210.411.1901 Italian cuisine with a view of the harbour

Varoulko

Ak. Koumoundourou 52, Mikrolimano, Tel: 210.522.8400 Seafood prepared by Michelin star-winning chef Lefteris Lazarou

Vosporos

Akti Koumoundourou 20, Tel: 210.412.7324, Mediterranean dining with a sea view.

Zefyros

Ak. Koumoundourou 48, Tel: 210.417.5152 Fresh seafood on the quay

Zorbas

Ak. Koumoundourou 14, Tel: 210.411.1663 Unique flavours of the Mediterranean

DRINK

Nikis 48, Tel: 210.322.2839 Creative gourmet dishes that change monthly

7 Food Sins

Filomousou Eterias Sq. 1 Tel: 210.701.1108, A handsome gourmet gastro-pub in Plaka’s charming Filomousou Etairias square.

Ak. Microlimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084 One of the hip places to see and be seen with a rooftop bar overlooking the yachting marina

Katafigio

Ak. Koumoundourou 4, Tel: 210.413.1612 Club, cafe & beer house

New

Varoulko Seaside, Akti Koumoundourou 52, Tel: 210.412.3308

Roof to openi p Bar ng

Kydathaneon 41, Tel: 210.323.2110, Legendary watering-hole in the Plaka district

Daphne’s Restaurant

Lysikratous 4, Tel: 210.322.7971 Refined classic Greek dishes in a resplendent atmosphere

Electra

Nikodimou 18-20, Tel: 210.337.0000 Roof-top dining with Greek cuisine

Mono Wine Restaurant

Ven. Paleologou 4, Tel: 210.322.6711 Unpretentious gourmet cuisine

La Pantera Negra

Kalogrini 6, Tel: 213.036.4214, A bistro with a hard rock touch that combines Japanese yin with Peruvian yang.

Psaras Traditional Restaurant

EAT 310 Street

Kifissias Av. 310, Tel: 210.671.0688 Juicy burgers and rich salads with retro look

Bars, Clubs & Lounges Noël

Kolokotroni 59B, Tel: 211.215.9534 An evening lounge scene with friendly service and Italian inspired food and drink Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2682 Features tasty cocktails and premium spirits that attract all ages

Throubi

Aghias Eirinis Square & Vasilikis 1, Tel: 210.323.0926, A cozy and colorful space with a good selection of coffee and cocktails

Warehouse CO2

Iperidou 1, Tel: 210.324.7048, New cosy all-day nook with an accent on sparkling wines.

Agg. Sikelianou 8, Tel: 210.672.9114 Terrific fusion food with piquant flavours

P.s.Pecora

Barabicu

25 Martiou 28, Tel: 210.674.8718

China’s Fantasy

DRINK

Piperia

Antaios

G. Drosini 7, Tel: 210.675.5493 Relaxed atmosphere with delicious mezedes

Scholarheio

Adrianou 68 & Eolou,Tel: 210.325.1619 Taditional Greek cuisine

Lykourgou 2, Tel: 210.671.1320 Italian food with attitude

Polly Maggoo

Omirou 6, Tel: 210.674.0710 Mediterranean flavours in a cosy atmosphere

Bluefield Burger

Tripodon 14, Tel: 210.324.1605 A traditional tray taverna with old fashioned decor & prices

Ombra

Albion

Erotokritou & Erechtheos 16, Tel: 210 321 8733 Traditional Greek food set in two old stone mansions.

The Clumsies

7 Food Sins

Varoulko

Brettos

Ydria

Istioploikos

Mary Pickford

2 Mazi

Aggelopoulou 3, Tel: 210.677.7739 For real American burgers Kambouroglou 32, Tel: 210.674.9889 Chinese cuisine

Dioskouroi

Dim. Vasiliou 16, Tel: 210.671.3997 All day café-restaurant

Dourampeis Oyster

Andrianiou 37, Tel: 210.671.0100 Delectable seafood and frech oysters

Fish Co. Platters

Perikleous 11, Tel: 210.671.1976 A modern take on a traditional psarotaverna

Gaspar Food and Mood

Dim. Vasiliou Av. & Lykourgou, Tel: 210.677.5011, Creative bistro cuisine ideal fro business lunches

Hachiko Sushi

Leof. Kifisias 304, Tel: 211.411.2211, Authentic Japanese dishes and refreshing cocktails inspired from the far east.

Aggelou Sikelianou 8, Tel: 210.524.1120, Buzzy French eaterie arranged over two floors with two very different moods.

Ag. Georgiou 1 & Olympionikon Tel: 210.672.8107 Mediterranean cuisine with Italian flair

Rena tis Ftelias

25th Martiou 28, Tel: 210.674.3874 Highly recommended Greek taverna

The Burger Joint

Solomou 4-6, Tel: 210.671.2222, New York style, organic burgers in an industrial and fresh restaurant environment.

DRINK Geona’s

Davaki 1 & 28is Oktovriou, Tel: 210.675.5571, Atmospheric finedining hangout dug into a green corner of Palaio Psychiko.

Kudu

25th Martiou 22, Tel: 217.722.3040 Authentic coffee experience.

EAT

Psyrri

Hams and Clams

EAT

Psychico

Ak. Mikrolimanou, Tel: 210.412.4417 Excellent seafood; try the astakomakaronada

Plaka

Jimmy and The Fish

Diporto

Sokratous 9, Tel: 210.321.1463 Old-world tavern offers bargain basics like salads, sardines & fava

Falafellas

Aiolou 51,Tel: 210.323.9809 Gourmet ethnic street food

Krithamos

Mpoumpoulinas & N. Paritsi, Tel: 210.672.8790 Traditional flavours in an informal atmosphere

La Piazzetta

28is Oktovriou 4, Tel: 210.675.3732, Homey Italian trattoria with wood oven-baked pizzas in central but peaceful locale.

Gostijo

Aisopou 10, Tel: 210.323.3825, Kosher menu and Mediterranean “repertoire”

Epiros Tavern

Athens Central Market Filopimenos 4, Tel: 210.324.0773, Great traditional Greek tavern, an excellent place for lunch

insider athens | 75

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Ochre & Brown

Dosirak

DRINK

Feedέλ Urban Gastronomy

Leokoriou 7, Tel: 210.331.2950 Mediterranean/French cuisine

Bars, Clubs & Lounges Beer Time

Iroon Square 1, Tel: 210.322.8443 Relaxed atmosphere with wide selection of microbrews

Booze Cooperativa

Kolokotroni 57, Tel: 211.405.3733 A multi-purpose meeting venue for drinks, performances, and games

Cinque Wine & Deli

Agatharhou 15,Tel: 215.501.7853, Free wine tastings of local grapes and traditional homemade Greek morsels

Cantina Social

Leokoriou 6, Tel: 210.325.1668, Tiny standing bar, ideal for socializing

Dude

Kalamiotou 14, Tel: 210.322.7130 Uptempo bar inspired by “Big Lebowski”

Stoa Bolani, Voulis 7,Tel: 210.331.5776, Urban newcomer specializing in healthy-eating options with no cereals or processed ingredients

Ktena 1, Athens, Tel: 210.321.0551 Funky interior, a delightful patch of green space

Apollonos 6, Tel: 210.323.7720, A Bollywood symphony of Indian flavours with swift and friendly service

Ioannis

Royal Olympic Hotel, Ath. Diakou 28-34, Tel: 210.928.8400 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine with breathtaking views from the rooftop

Kiki’s de Grece

Ipitou 4, Tel: 210.321.1279 Cosy wine bar with French flair

Syntagma

Xenofontos 14 & Nikis, Tel: 210.324.3232, Venezuelan and Columbian street food in a buzzy space

Low Profile Whisky Bar

Avocado

Voulis 7, Tel: 213 035 2114 Classic bar offering massive selection of whiskey with notes of jazz and rock ‘n’ roll.

Black Duck Multiplarte

Nikis 23, Tel: 211.406.7032, Local hangout with fun vibe and great Greek-style cocktails

Nikis 30, Tel: 210.323.7878 Vegetarian restaurant

Makalo

Christou Lada, 9 Tel: 210.323.4760, Popular multi-space hot spot combining gallery, café, bar and sophisticated restaurant

New Taste

By The Glass

Voulis 31-33, Tel:210.324.3545, All-day concept restaurant blending tastes of Japan, Vietnam, Korea and China with indigenous Greek touches

Souri 2, Tel: 210.323.2560 Charming wine bar with character

New Hotel, Filellinon 16, Tel: 210.327.3170, Mediterranean cuisine with a modern twist

Nolan

Noodle Bar

Stoa Spiliomilou, Tel: 210.321.1315, Refined cuisine in chic setting

42 Bar

Indian Kitchen

Los Loros

Nikis 13, Syntagma Tel: 210.323.9829 Fresh bagels and French pastries

Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Hotel Grand Bretagne, Tel: 210.333.0750, Luxurious surroundings, Mediterranean cuisine

Apollonos 1, Tel: 210.321.1099 Affordable street-food style sushi

Amandine Bagels & Gourmandises

DRINK

GB Roof Garden

Koi

EAT

City Bistro

Wild in the City

Voulis 31-33, Tel: 210.323.3330 Japanese & Korean cuisine in the heart of Athens

Apollonos 11, Tel: 210.331.8585 A congenial place to drop in for a quick noodle fix

Black Duck

O Tzitzikas ki o Mermigas

Mitropoleos 12-14, Tel: 210.324.7607 Savoury Greek cuisine, perfectly combining modern & traditional elements

Pasaji

Stoa Spyromiliou, Tel: 210 .322.0714, Bang in the heart of Athens’ luxe zone.

Paul

Panepistiomiou 10, Tel: 210.722.4824 A true French patisserie

Plaza Lounges

NJV Athens Plaza Hotel Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400 All day lounge with salads & snacks

Sushimou

Skoufou 6, Tel: 211.407.8457 Owner Chef Antonis Drakoularakos, rated among the world’s 100 top chefs, lets his food do the talking

Taqueria Maya

Petraki 10, Tel: 211.216.7081, Feisty Mexican street food choices at pocket-friendly prices

The Parliament

NJV Athens Plaza Hotel Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400, International cuisine with Mediterranean accents

Tudor Hall Restaurant & Lounge

King George Hotel, Vas. Georgiou A3, Tel: 210.322.2210, Elegant setting, refined cuisine and an incredible Acropolis view

The concierge of the Grande Bretagne Hotel recommends EAT

New 7 Food Sins, Filomousou Etairias 1, Plaka Classic Psaras Traditional Restaurant, Erechtheos 16, Plaka Alternative Nolan Voulis 31 Syntagma

76 | insider athens

DRINK

New Zurbaran, Patr. Ioakeim 38, Kolonaki Classic Low Profile Whisky Bar, Voulis 7, Syntagma Alternative Noel Kolokotroni 5B, Monastiraki

DO

New Mythological or Christian Tour, Athens Classic Acropolis Walking Tour, Athens Alternative Wine Tasting Masterclasses at the Hotel Grande Bretagne Wine Library

Kolokotroni 3, Tel: 213.0052153, Delicious creative cocktails and mixology

Ampariza

Lekka 14, Tel: 210.325.7644 A wall of booze for serious drinkers

Alexander’s

Hotel Grande Bretagne, Syntagma Sq, Tel: 210.333.0000, For cherished cigar and single malt evenings

Baba Au Rum

Klitiou 6, Tel: 211.710.9140 Amazing cocktails and rum collection with a cozy environment

Barreldier

Voulis 7, Tel: 210.325.4711 An all-day café-cum-watering hole open into the wee hours

Barley Cargo

Kolokotroni 6, Tel: 210.323.0445 Enjoy a wide selection of international and Greek beers accompanied by live music

Drunk Sinatra

Thiseos 16, Tel: 210.331.3733 A friendly place to drink to vintage music from the ‘50s and ‘60s

Explorer’s Lounge

NJV Athens Plaza, Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.335.2400, Magnificent cocktails and live jazz in an intimate atmosphere

Heteroclito

Fokionos 2, Tel: 210.323.9406 A true wine destination with focus on Greek vineyards

Kalua

Amerikis 6, Tel: 210.360.8304 Dance the night away in a chic environment

Voulis 7, Tel: 213.035.2144 Impressive selection of single malts

Bufala Gelato

Kolokotroni 9

Orfeos 2, Tel: 210.896.1800, Thessaloniki franchise using buffalo milk in customised ice-cream products

Kolokotroni 9, Tel: 210.323.2795, A cozy jazz bar with specialty cocktails

Madras House of Tea

Ithaki

Voulis 7, Tel: 210.324.2777, Nirvana for tea lovers with brews from all over the world

Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.896.3747, Beautiful sea view, fresh seafood

Mama Roux

Moriarty,

Christou Lada 1, Tel: 213.040.6763, Cool vibes, music and cocktails in the heart of downtown Athens

Oinoscent

Voulis 45-47, Tel: 210.322.9374, Trendy winebar

The Clumsies

Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2682 Find out why it is rated amongst the best bars in Europe.

The Gin Joint

Christou Lada 1, Tel: 210.321.8646 Popular drinks, classic cocktails and the fanciest G&T in Athens!

Lutetia Bistro

Hytra

Onassis Cultural Center Syngrou Ave 107-109, Tel: 217.707.1118, 210.331.6767 Creative gourmet Greek cuisine with stunning views

Kollias

Syngrou Ave. 303, Tel: 210.940.8620 Excellent seafood in a pleasant Mediterranean atmosphere

Meerkat

Vizantiou 7, Tel: 213.045.3390 Safariinspired all-day café and tropical cocktail bar in Koukaki.

Première

Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel: 210.920.6000 Gourmet cuisine with splendid views

The Seven Jokers

The Trap

Othonos 10, Tel: 210.321.5561 Alluring gold trimmings, cosy mood and smooth tunes and dangerously delicious cocktails on tap

CAFES

EAT

Thissio

Voulis 7, Tel: 210.321.9225, Lively and central wine bar with classic fittings and stylish wine and cocktail menu

Indian Masala

Ermou 129, Tel: 210.321.9412 Amazing Indian food at affordable price in a pleasant environment

Kirki

Apostoplou Pavlou 31, Tel: 210.346.6960 Ideal for a lunch break

Kaya

Voulis 7, Tel: 213.028.4305 For a caffeine fix like no other.

Syngrou

EAT Ai Nikolas

Syngrou Ave. 156, Tel: 210.923.2918 Original seafood dishes, fresh ingredients and simple elegant interior

Avenue

Metropolitan Hotel, Syngrou Ave 385, Tel: 210.947.100, French bistrot inspired by Michel Roux

Café Zoe

Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel: 210.920.6655 Casual dining and terrific buffets for lunch and on Sundays

Somewhere Hotel, Dios 2 Tel: 210.967.0000 Affordable gourmet cuisine

Avenue

Kuzina

Adrianou 9, Tel: 210.324.0133 Inspired traditional recipes in a cozy arty environment

The James Joyce

Astiggos 12, Tel: 210.323.5055 Genuine Irish pub with typical pub fare

DRINK The Sowl

Iraklidon 10, Tel: 210.345.0003 Art, taste, fashion and music collide at this welcoming new “ethnic urban” space

Underdog

Iraklidon 8, Tel: 213.036.5393 Specialty coffees, impressive selection of foreign and Greek craft beers, and exceptional cocktail menu

EAT

Voula

Aiolou 48, Tel: 213.004.8382 A comfortable atmosphere with a variety of international cuisine and an elaborate Sunday brunch

Vouliagmeni

EAT

Low Profile

Akrovoli

Poseidonos 14, Tel: 210.899.0152, Oyster bar with a thoughtfully curated menu of fresh fish.

Ballaro Italian Restaurant

Posidonos 12, Tel: 210.899.4464 Charming deli-trattoria with flavours from Palermo

Coconuts

Vasileos Pavlou 67, Tel: 210.895.5177, The place to stock up on your quinoa chips and acai berries

Drakoulis Meat Open Project

Vas. Pavlou 103, Tel: 210.932.0211 A nightclub, gourmet emporium, and Athens’ most glamorous meat boutique all in one

Malabar

The Margi, Litous 11, Tel: 210.892.9160, Multinational tastes in a chic Mediterranean ambience

Matsuhisa Athens

Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.896.0510, Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa serves up sushi favourites with a Latin-American flair

Moorings

Marina Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.967.0659, Elegant Vouliagmeni institution with marine theme and dreamy cocktail terrace

Mythos of the Sea

Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Tel: 210.891.1100 Gourmet Mediterranean cuisine that blends local produce with fresh seafood

Pizza Palma

Prinkipos Petrou 33, Tel: 210.894.2136 Top-quality authentic Italian

Ermou 1, Tel: 210.967.1588, Inventive and classic fine-dough Italian pizzas and pastas in central Vouliagmeni

Koi

Philip by Artopolis

Dulcis in Fundo

98 Vas. Pavlou, Tel: 213.032.0890 Affordable street-food style sushi

Loutsos

Leof. Vasileos Pavlou 72-76, Tel: 211.411.2444, Upscale fish gastronomy in the heart of Voula Square.

Naiades

Vas. Pavlou 74, Tel: 210.965.7706 Popular family grill joint

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Cava Faidon

Agiou Ioannou 28, Tel: 215.510.9975 Mid-range or special edition wine varieties with a giddy range of imported goodies

Cava Vegera

Poseidonos 11, Tel: 210.964.6635 A new wine bar changing the game for the stagnant costal enclave

Nelly’s Gastro Pub

Plastira 3, Tel: 210.899.4965 An unpretentious hang-out with reasonably-priced drinks, themed sports nights, and knock-out burgers

Ermou 1, Tel: 210.967.0321, Popular local bakery that’s grown into a café and dine-in destination with cocktails and music until late

Rafale

Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.967.1184 Traditionally prepared seafood dishes presented exquisitely

Sardelaki

Leof. Poseidunos 18, Tel: 210.967.0913 Affordable seafood on the waterfront

Tylixto Greek Wrap

Ag. Panteleimonos 15, Tel: 210.896.0030, An ode to the Greek street food tradition that you “wrap in your hand”

Waffle House

Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.1227 Sure to satisfy your sweet tooth

DRINK En Plo

Posidonos 4, Tel: 210.967.1770 Cocktails overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay

Island

27th klm Athinon-Souniou Tel: 210.965.3563-4, Award-winning cuisine & an unmatched location

insider athens | 77

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Bookstores

Compendium

Alikarnassou 8, Athens Tel: 210.383.2139, 210.322.1248

Ιanos

Stadiou 24, Athens Tel: 210.321.7917, 231.022.1113

Lea Books

Sina 60, Kolonaki Tel: 211.012.0547

Lexikopoleio

Stasinou 13, Tel: 210.723.1201

Ouranio Toxo

Perikleous 41,Ag.Paraskevi Tel: 211.184.6771

Polyglot

Akadimias 84, Tel: 210.330.0455

Public

Karageorgi Servias 1, Syntagma Tel: 210.818.1333, S. Karagiorga 4 & Lazaraki, Glyfada Tel: 210.898.4300, The Mall and Golden Hall, Maroussi Tel: 210.630.0410, Skoufa 3, Kolonaki.

Tel: 210.338.7150

WHSmith Athens International Airport Eleftherios Venizelos.

Tel: 210.353.1080

Deli

Arapian

Evripidou 41, Monastiraki Tel: 210.321.7238 Old-style butcher shop offering cured meats

Bahar

Evripidou 31,Monastiraki Tel: 210.321.7225 Well-known herb haven

Cava Anthidis

Patriarchou Ioakeim 45, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.725.1050 Comprehensive wine and liquor wholesalers

Kostarelos

Cellier

Kriezotou 1d, Syntagma Tel: 210.361.0040, Kifissias Ave. 369, Tel: 210.801.8756, Syngrou Ave. 320, Tel: 210.453.3551 Stockists of premium wines and spirits

Kostarelos

Patr. Ioakeim 30-32, Tel: 210.725.9000 Great selection of cheese and Greek goodies

Kylix

Karneadou 20, Tel: 210.724.5143 Quality picks from the world’s best vineyards

Marks & Spencer Food

Ermou 33-35, Athens, Tel: 210.324.0675 Vouliagmenis Av. 85, Glyfada, Tel: 211.012.4968 Lazaraki 13, Glyfada, Tel: 210.894.3147 Pentelis Av. 23, Vrilissia, Tel: 211.012.5381

Miran

Evripidou 45, Tel: 210.321.7187 Sausages, pastrami & cured meats

Provence

Posidonos 80, Tel: 210.898.1435 Gourmet French delicatessen

Salamat

Korinthias 24, Athens Tel: 210.779.6766

Sorpresa Italiana

Kiriazi 6-8, Tel: 210.801.7886, Authentic fresh Italian pasta, sauces, truffles & more

Stefanidis Finest Foods

Dimitrios Sq 13, Tel: 210.808.2191 Excellent European delicatessen

Varsos

Kassaveti 5, Kifissia Tel: 210.801.2472 Milk products & patisserie

Jewellery

Solonos 77, Kolonaki Tel: 210.362.9703

Wine Garage

Xenokratous 25, Tel: 210.721.3175, Browser-friendly cava with helpful service

Athens Metro Mall

Dept Stores

Le livre ouvert

Vouliagmenis Avenue 276, Tel: 210.976.9444 Shops, cinemas and food

Attica

Apriati

Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed jewellery for the young

Elena Votsi

Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation pieces in gold and stone

Fanourakis

Patriarchou Ioakim 23, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.1762, Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings

Folli Follie

Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Kolonaki, Tel: 210.323.0739 Greece's high-street export stocks watches and everyday bijoux

Omega

Voukourestiou 2, Kolonaki Tel: 210.322.7682 Elegant boutique showcasing the brand's timeless timepieces

Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury goods

Van Cleef & Arpels

Golden Hall

Bulgari

Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 131 high-end (and highstreet) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion

McArthurGlen

Building Block E71, Yalou, 19004, Spata, Tel: 210.663.0830, 210.663.0840 Designer Outlet Shopping Centre

Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki Tel: 210.331.0319 The jeweller of the international jetset Voukourestiou 8, Kolonaki Tel: 210.324.7118, Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories

Cartier

Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison

Petit Bateau

Golden Hall, Kifissias Ave 37A, Tel: 210.681.3050 A. Papandreou 16A & Metaxa, Glyfada, Tel: 210.894.8813

The Mall Athens

Attica

78 | insider athens

Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food

Chopard

GB Spa

Ilias Lalaounis

Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller

Kessaris

Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces

Marathianakis

Karagiorgi Servias 4 (Stoa Kalliga), Tel: 210.362.7118 & 210.322.2424 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs

Pentheroudakis

Voukourestiou 19, Tel: 210.361.3187 Timeless pieces inspired by classical Greek design

Zolotas

Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the ancient Greece as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso

Anamnesia

Athens International Airport Departure Terminal, Tel: 210 3533104 Matogianni, Myconos, Tel: 2289 079171 anamnesia.gr

Acropolis Museum Shop

15 Dionysiou Areopagitou, Tel: 210.900.0911

Benaki Museum Shop

Koumbari & Vas. Sofias Tel: 210.367.1045, www.benakishop.gr

Forget me not

Adriannou 100, Plaka Tel: 210.325.3740 www.forgetmenotathens.gr

Greece is for Lovers

Valtetsiou 50 - 52, Kolonaki Tel: 210.924.5064 www.greeceisforlovers.com Tongue-in-cheek souvenirs for the discerning traveller

It's all, oh so souvenir to me!

Concierge Athens, Ay.Theklas 8, Psirri, Tel: 213.036.9266 More than 50 Greek designers' unique, new imaginative and unexpected ideas that re-define the souvenir www.ohsosouvenir.com

Kori

Mitropoleos 13, Monastiraki Tel: 210.323.3534 Traditional & contemporary jewellery

Museum of Cycladic Art Shop Neophytou Douka 4, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.8321-3

Ananea Spa

Life Gallery Hotel 103 Thisseos Ave., Ekali, Tel: 211.106.7400

GB Spa at Hotel Grande Bretagne Vasileos Georgiou 1, Syntagma Sq, Tel: 210.333.0799

Hiltonia Spa

Vas.Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1000

I-Spa

InterContinental Athenaeum Athens Syngrou Avenue 89-93, Tel: 210.920.6000

Olive Tree Spa

Hatzigianni Mexi 4, Hilton Tel: 210 724.4425

Orloff Spa Astir Beach Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210.896.0028

Vintage

Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou Tel: 210.325.0555 Legendary time pieces and jewellery.

Souvenirs

Chopard

Spas

Zolotas

Amerikaniki Agora

Athinas 30, Monastiraki 1st-2nd Floor Tel: 210 3217876

Bohbo

Ippokratous 40 & Didotou, Exarhia Tel: 210.338.9202

Gouadeloupi

Protogenous 12, Psyrri, Tel: 697.852.3933

Like Yesterday’s

Protogenous 16, Monastiraki Tel: 216.700.4810 Vintage clothes mainly from the United States

Mofu

Sarri 28, Psyrri, Tel: 210.331.1922 Vintage and contemporary style home décor and furniture

Paliosintheies

Protogenous 8, Psyrri, Tel: 210.656.0574 Vintage home décor and furniture

Preloved

Ipitou 5, Syntagma Second-hand clothing collected from the cities of Paris and Berlin

Retrosexual Vintage Shop

Aghias Eirinis 3, Monastiraki Tel: 210.545.1553 Great collection of merchandise ranging from the ‘20s to the ‘90s.

Sofita

Iraklidon 35, Thissio Tel: 210.346.9904

Yesterday's Bread

Anamnesia

Retrosexual

Kallidromiou 87-89, Tel: 210.881.1233 Imported second-hand clothes; individuality guaranteed

insider athens | 79

80 | insider athens

Badminton Theatre Goudi, Athens, Tel: 211.101.0020 Gialino Music Theatre Sygrou 143, N. Smyrni, Athens Tel: 210.9316.101-4 Pallas Theatre Voukourestiou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.321.3100

Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 210.321.0219 Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries.

Byzantine Churches many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox church) on Filellinon Street.

Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm.

Dress soberly when visiting.

Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works.

Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi.

Tel: 210.346.1589.

Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that markedthe boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of

Hellenic Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros. Tel: 212.254.0000. hellenic-cosmos.gr Frissiras Vlassis Museum of Contemporary European Art Monis Asteriou 3-7, Plaka, Tel: 210.323.4678 frissirasmuseum.com Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4, Athens .

Tel: 210.722.8321, cycladic.gr Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio, Tel: 210.346.1981 Apostolou Pavlou 37, Thissio Tel: 211.012.6486, herakleidon-art.gr Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni, Acropolis. Tel: 210.922.7260, lalaounis.com Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka.

Tel: 210.322.5582. jewishmuseum.gr Kerameikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.346.3552.

National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 National Gallery and Alexandros Soutsos Museum Vas. Konstantinou 50, Athens.

Tel: 210.723.5857, 210.723.5937 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens.

Tel: 210.363.5953, nma.gr The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.924.1043, theacropolismuseum.gr The National Art Gallery and Alexander Soutzos Museum Michalakopoulou 1 - Vas. Constantinou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.723.5857

Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos, Athens. Tel: 210.321.0185.

Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens.

Tel: 210.923.1502, spyrosvassiliou.org Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka, Tel: 210.368.9502, history-museum.uoa.gr Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue, Athens Tel: 210.367.1000, benaki.gr Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos.

Tel: 210.325.1311, benaki.gr Benaki Museum, Pireos Pireos 138 & Andronikou, Gazi Tel: 210.345.3111, benaki.gr Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.1027

Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli, Ag. Ioannis Rentis, Tel: 210.425.6999, allou.gr Children’s Museum Kydathinaeon 14, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2995.

Goulandris Museum of Natural History Levidou 13, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.801.5870, gnhm.gr Greek Folk Art Museum Daily Karaghiozis puppet shows!

Kydathinaeon 17, Plaka, Tel: 210.322.9031 Museum of Children’s Art Kodrou 9, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2621 childrensartmuseum.gr Summit The Wall Sport Climbing Center Ag. Athanasiou 12, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.0093, summit.gr Westin Kids Club Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.890.2000 www.westinathens.com/en/westin_kids_club/

Just for kids

Sites Theatres

Galleries

A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psyrri Tel: 210.321.4994 Artzone 42 42 Vas. Konstantinou, Athens, Tel: 210 725 9549 Astrolavos Dexameni Xanthippou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4342 Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200 Athens Art Gallery Glykonos 4, Dexameni Sq., Athens, Tel: 210 721 3938 Bernier/Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thissio, Tel: 210.341.3935 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxurgeio, Tel: 210.331.7527 Ekfrasi Gallery Valaoritou 9a, Tel: 210.360.7598 Eleni Marneri Galerie Lebessi 5-7& Porinou 16, Acropolis Tel: 210.8619.488 EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Kallirrois Av. & Amvr. Frantzi street Athens, Tel: 210.924.2111- 3 Gagosian Gallery Merlin 3, Athens, Tel: 210.364.0215 K-Art Gallery Sina 54, Athens, Tel: 211.401.3877 Kalfayan Gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.7679 Kapopoulos Fine Arts Varis - Koropiou Av. 94, Koropi Kourd Gallery Kassiani 2-4, Athens, Tel: 210.642.6573 Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 Thanassis Frisssiras Gallery Kriezotou 7, Athens, Tel: 210.364.0288 The Eynard Mansion Aghiou Konstantinou 20 & Menandrou, Athens, Tel: 210.322.1335 Titanium Yiayiannos Vas. Konstantinou 44, Pangrati, Tel: 210.729.7644 Xippas Gallery Sofokleous 53D, Athens, Tel: 210.331.9333 Zoumboulakis Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278, Kriezotou 6, Syntagma, Tel: 210.363.4454

Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues.

Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for €1.50 and open daily from 8:30am.

Panathenian Stadium Kalimarmaro”was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden. Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the “birthplace of democracy”. Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory. Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries. Irodou Attikou Street. Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am-3pm.

Admission to the Agora and museum €3.50. Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma(Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changing-of-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour. Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian’s Arch. Mon-Sun 8am-7:30pm. €2.00. Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues, Tel: 210.922.6330. Theatre of Dionysus built in the 5th century BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed. Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight directions of the wind, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus.

Mon-Sun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora. Tel: 210.324.5220.

Museums

ASSOCIATION OF GUIDES Tel: 210.322.9705

Athinais Cultural Centre formerly a silk factory, this space has been converted into a large cultural centre. astorias 34-36, Votanikos. Tel: 210.348.0000.

B&M Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens Tel: 210.361.1206 Ileana Tounta Contemporary Art Centre 48 Armatolon-Klephton st. Athens, Tel: 210.643.9466 Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) live concerts, operas and other performances. Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali. Tel: 210.728.2333 Michael Cacoyannis Foundation Piraeus 206, Tavros, Tel: 210.341.8550 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou 107-109, Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000 Stavros Niarchos Foundation Vasilissis Sofias Ave. 86A The Art Foundation Normanou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.323.8757

Cultural venues

ORGANISED TOURS

ARION RESORT & SPA

ATHENS HILTON

COCO-MAT HOTEL NAFSIKA

DIVANI PALACE ACROPOLIS

The legendary beauty resort is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. Breathtaking views of the Saronic Gulf, elegant and sophisticated décor in all 123 rooms and suites, private swimming pools and beaches, spa and gourmet restaurants.

Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.890.2000

506 renovated rooms, two pools, convention facilities, business center, four restaurants, two bars and spa. The rooftop Galaxy Bar and Restaurant has gorgeous city views.

Vas. Sofias 46, Ilisia Tel: 210.728.1000

Located in Kifissia, the hotel offers an unforgettable experience thanks to COCOMAT‘s unique sleep systems in its 22 guest rooms, power breakfast, bike rids and herb garden.

Pellis 6, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.8027

Located at the base of the Acropolis and close to Plaka. Pool with bar, roof garden restaurant with Acropolis view.

Parthenonos 19-25 Makrigianni, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.928.0100

ATHENAEUM INTERCONTINENTAL ATHENS

COCO-MAT HOTEL

Crowne plaza

GRANDE BRETAGNE

543 rooms with renovated Deluxe rooms and suites. Dedicated business centre facilities and 3.500 m2 of extensive & flexible meeting space. New I-Spa and renovated gym. Award winning restaurants.

Syngrou 89-93, Neos Kosmos.

Tel: 210.920.6000

COCO-MAT Hotel Athens is an understated luxury, design hotel that sits in the heart of Kolonaki and offers relaxing sleep, delicious homemade breakfast and selected services for its esteemed guests. 36 Patriarchou Ioakeim str.

Tel: 210.723.0000

Newly renovated, at a very convenient location attracts both business and leisure travellers. Amenities include restaurant, bar, rooftop swimming pool, conference and business facilities, garage parking.

Michalakopoulou 50, Athens.

Tel: 210.727.8000

This city landmark is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. All 265 rooms and 56 suites are decorated with original artwork and antiques.

Reception areas, ballrooms, roof garden with Acropolis view. Luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools.

Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.333.0000

ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE HOTEL

CIVITEL ATTIK

DIVANI APOLLON PALACE & SPA

Holiday Inn Attica Avenue

66 state-of the-art rooms, 15 executive rooms and 3 suites. The acclaimed Etrusco Restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean cuisine.

Kallirois 32 & Petmeza, Neos Kosmos.

Tel: 210.921.5353

A tranquil first-class business, sports and family hotel set in the leafy green suburb of Maroussi, with a swimming pool, conference facilities and spacious restaurant with terrace.

Eptalofou 13 – 15, Maroussi. Τel: 210.610.1000

Located seaside with a magnificent view of the Saronic Gulf. All rooms with balconies and sea views. Indoor and outdoor pools, boutiques, beauty parlor, business centre and spa.

Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Kavouri Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.891.1100

New five-star property on Attica Avenue linking Athens with the international airport.

State-of-the art conference facilities, restaurant, two bars, pool and fitness center.

40.2 km Attica Road, between exits 17 & 18, Spata. Tel: 210.668.9000

ATHENS ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL

CIVITEL OLYMPIC

DIVANI CARAVEL

Holiday Suites

Located in historic Plaka beneath the Acropolis. Facilities include bar, restaurant, spa area with indoor swimming pool, business centre, garden and underground parking.

N. Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka.

Tel: 210.337.0000

Right across the Olympic Stadium, its Superior Rooms and Junior Suites are fitted with modern amenities, from free minibar to free wifi internet access and interactive tv.

Kifissias 2A & Pantanassis, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.680.1900

Situated close to major tourist attractions with, rooftop restaurant and swimming pool.

Vas. Alexandrou 2, Kesariani.

Tel: 210.720.7000

Elegant, all-suite hotel offering high standard accommodation. Each suite provides guests with a separate living room and kitchenette.

Arnis 4, Ilissia.

Tel: 210.727.8000

insider athens | 81

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

KEFALARI SUITES

METROPOLITAN

RADISSON BLU

THEOXENIA PALACE HOTEL

Turn-of-the-century hotel in Kifissia, part of YES! Hotels.Themed suites with modern facilities.

Pentelis 1, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3333

Overlooking the Acropolis and the Saronic Gulf, the Metropolitan Hotel combines warm hospitality and urban luxury.

Syngrou Ave 385, Paleo Faliro Tel: 210.947.1000, metrpolitan@chandris.gr

Set across from the lush groves of Pedion tou Areos park, this contemporary hotel is a 4-minute walk from Victoria metro station and 2.9 km from the Acropolis.

Alexandras Avenue 10, Athens Tel: 210.889.4500

In an elegant neoclassical building, this hotel has a restaurant, gym, sauna and outdoor pool. Business centre, internet & conference facilities.

Filadelfeos 2, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3622

KING GEORGE

NEW

SEMIRAMIS

THE MARGI

Situated in the heart of the city, it’s 102 guest rooms and suites are elegantly furnished and natural wood floors. Meeting & Conference spaces, restaurants with panoramic views.

Vas. Georgiou A’ 3. Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.322.2210

Designed by the Campana brothers, NEW, the latest venture of YES! Hotels has 79 luxury rooms, including 18 Studios and 6 Junior Suites. NEW Taste, is the Hotel’s innovative restaurant concept.

Filellinon 16, Syntagma.

Tel: 210.3273000

YES! Hotel designed by Karim Rashid. 51 luxury rooms, 4 suites and 6 poolside bungalows. Ultra-trendy bar-restaurant.

Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari-Kifissia.

Tel: 210.628.4400

Boutique hotel with 90 spacious rooms and suites and great views to the sea and pine forests. Baku Restaurant offers a unique dining experience while Malabar and the Lobby lounge are perfect for a glass of champagne.

Close to the lake, beach and tennis courts.

Litous 11, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.892.9000

LIFE GALLERY

NJV athens plaza

SOFITEL ATHENS AIRPORT

THE WESTIN ATHENS

Modern architecture finds its expression in a minimalist designed building with discreet swimming pools, Zen gardens and ethnic elements. The hotel offers 29 spacious, luxury rooms, including 3 art studios and 2 suites and a spa and fitness centre.

Thiseos Avenue 103, Ekali. Tel: 211.106.7400

Boutique-style hotel with 182 rooms including 23 suites with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, ideally located in the heart of the business and shopping district within walking distance of Plaka. 2, Vas.Georgiou A’ St, Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210 3352400

Airport hotel. Executive floor, business center and conference facilities. Two bars and two restaurants. Health club and covered swimming pool.

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. Tel: 210.354.4000

Part of the Astir Palace Complex with 162 guest rooms and suites and views of the Saronic Gulf. Sea view lounges, trendy bars, fusion and Mediterranean cuisine restaurants and private gazebos by an Olympic-sized pool.

Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.890.2000

MELIÁ ATHENS

NOVOTEL

ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS HOTEL

ATHENS WAS

Located in the heart of Athens with 136 luxury rooms, spacious dining areas, a modern health club and views of historic monuments.

Chalkokondili 14 & 28th Octovriou, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.332.0100

Located in the center of Athens. Two Bars/ Restaurants at outdoor Rooftop Pool & lobby area, play area, gym, free indoor parking, free Wi-Fi and panoramic view from the Roof Garden.

4-6 Michail Voda Street, Vathis Square.

Tel: 210.820.0700

Located in the upper part of Kolonaki, not far from the Lycabettus (Lykavittos) funicular railway. Excellent restaurant, Le Grand Balcon. Rooftop swimming pool.

Kleomenous 2, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki.

Tel: 210.741.6000

Urban adventure, daring design, original architecture, energetic social hub and stylish comfort, AthensWas’ 21 rooms all feature verandas to take in a truly authentic Athenian experience.

Dionysiou Areopagitou 5, Tel:210.725.4871

82 | insider athens

TwentyOne

A member of YES! Hotels. Modern design and simple architectural charm. 16 ergonomically designed rooms and 5 loft suites.

“21” Bar Restaurant for indoor and outdoor dining.

Kolokotroni 21, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.3521

Herodion

A five minute walk to Plaka. 90 guest rooms, meeting facilities and a lovely atrium bar-coffee shop.

Rovertou Galli 4, Makrigianni.

Tel: 210.923.6832

A CATEGORY AVA HOTEL & SUITES

HOTEL ELECTRA

Luxurious apartments and suites in Plaka. Magnificent views of the Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch and Zeus Temple. Short walk to Syntagma.

Lysikratous 9-11, Plaka.

Tel: 210.325.9000

Within walking distance from all archaeological sites, business and commercial districts. Includes bar, restaurant, lobby and meeting areas.

Ermou 5, Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.337.8000

amarilia hotel

PERISCOPE HOTEL

An excellent choice for business and leisure travellers. 100 renovated rooms and suites with great sea views, meeting and banqueting facilities, outdoor swimming pool.

Ag. Nikolaou 13 Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.899.0391

17 rooms, 4 junior suites and a super-lux penthouse suite. Part of YES! Hotels.

Haritos 22, Kolonaki.

Tel: 210.729.7200

Fresh Hotel

Philippos

Situated in the heart of old Athens within walking distance of the Plaka. Enjoy the Orange Bar, rooftop restaurant and pool.

Sophocleous 26 & Klisthenous, Omonoia.

Tel: 210.524.8511

Recently refurbished, all 50 rooms are wellappointed and comfortable. Good value for money.

Mitseon 3, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.922.3611-4

COSTA NAVARINO

SANTORINI

The Westin Resort Costa Navarino

MYSTIQUE

Inspired by old Messinian mansions, its 445 deluxe rooms, suites, 123 with private infinity pools, offer access to an extensive common pool areas, and reflect Westin’s soothing aesthetic.

Navarino Dunes Costa Navarino, Pilos Messinia, Tel: 27230.95000

Mystique is an 18 villa hotel, designed by Frank Le Fevbre.

Mystique, Oia. Tel. 22860.71114

The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort

The Tsitouras Collection Hotel

289 exquisitely appointed rooms and 32 suites with individual infinity pools.

Traditional Greek design with contemporary touches.

Navarino Dunes Costa Navarino, Pilos Messinia, Tel: 27230.96000

Art and hospitality are graciously combined in the unique backdrop of a dramatic landscape.

Firostefani, Santorini Tel: 22860.23747

evia

VEDEMA

THERMAE SYLLA wellness hotel

Voted one of the ten best spas in the world, it has 101 rooms, 7 Suites and 1 presidential suite with an incredible sea view. 2 restaurants offer traditional Mediterranean cuisine Posidonos 2, Edipsos, Evia. Tel: 22260.60100

Vedema has 45 rooms converted from a 100 year old neo-classical captain’s house and a private swiming pool for all the suites.

Vedema, Megalohori.

Tel: 22860.81796

PATMOS

SANTO MARIS Oia Luxury Suites and Spa

Patmos Aktis Suites & Spa

A 5-star luxury hotel situated only a few steps from Grikos beach. Considered possibly the best located hotel in Patmos.

Patmos, Grikos Bay. Tel: 22470.32800

Santo Maris offers exquisite comfort in its 42 suites, 2 sprawling villas, 4 swimming pools, spa and gourmet restaurant in one of the world’s best-loved destinations.

Oia, Santorini, Tel: 22866.00630

insider athens | 83

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

OTE video conference service

7.30am-10pm. Patission 85.

Tel: 210.883.8578, 210.822.0399

Commercial Office spaces Regus

Tel: 210.727.9000

Global Business Services Tel: 210.876.4876 Kifissias Ave. 90, Maroussi

COURIER SERVICES ACS

Asklipiou 25, Kryoneri Tel: 210.819.0000

DHL Tel: 210.989.0000 Express City S. Trikoupi 71, Athens Tel: 210.821.9959

Geniki Taxydromiki

Kifissou 14, Renti, Tel: 210.485.1100

Speedex

Seneka 24, 15klm Athinon-Lamias, Kifissia Tel: 801.110.0011

UPS

Driving School Highway

Amfitheas and Ag. Triados 30, 175 64 P. Faliro, Tel: 210.988.8098, 699.772.2777

Vlachos Bros

25th Martiou 20, Peristeri; Xenofodos 17, Peristeri; Afroditis 39, Ilion Tel: 210.574.4895, 210.576.9190

Relocation Agencies Allied Pickfords

Mourouzi 7, Athens, Tel: 210.610.4494

Athens Relocation Centre Zakynthou 10, Glyfada Tel: 210.965.0697

Attica Movers

Syngrou Ave. 19, Neos Kosmos, Tel: 210 922 7221

Celebrity International Movers Kapodistriou Ave. 102, Nea Ionia Tel: 210 272 0106

Corporate Relocations Athens Ag. Saranta 32, Nea Erithrea Tel: 210.800.3510

Orphee Beinoglou

27th km Old National Road Athens-Korinth Location Elefsinia, Elefsina Tel: 210.946.6100

Octopus Relocation Services

Ygeias 7, Marina Zeas, Tel: 210.459.9530

4klm Peanias-Markopoulou Av., Koropi Tel: 210.998.4000

TRANSLATIONS / INTERPRETING

Driving Schools in English

Global Business Services Kifisias 90, Maroussi, Tel: 210.876.4876

Trochokinisi Driving School

IBS - International Business Services

28th Oktovriou 126, Ambelokipi, Thessaloniki Tel: 2310.729.092

Michalakopoulou 29, Kaissariani Tel: 210.724.5541

MISSED THESE GREAT ISSUES?

Travel Agencies Travel Plan

Christou Lada 3, Athens Tel: 210.333.300, www.travelplan.gr

Amphitrion

Kyprou 46 & Ploutarhou, Dafni Tel: 210.900.6000, www.amphitrionholidays.gr

TravelPlanet24

Karagiorgi Servias 4, Syntagma Tel: 211 107 9684, www.travelplanet24.com

Mid-east Travel

Vas Sofias 105-107, Ampelokipoi Tel: Tel: 211.211.8888, www.mideast.gr

French Institute

Embassies Cultural Institutes

Business services

AUDIOVISUAL

Tel: 210.721.3039

BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.8105

CANADA Eth. Antistaseos 48, Halandri Tel: 210.727.3400

CHILE

Rigilis 12, Athens, Tel: 210.729.2647

CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.3282

CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.677.7033

CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei, Tel: 210.685.5550

CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A, Athens, Tel: 210.373.4800

Hellenic American Union

DENMARK Mourouzi 10, Athens,

Massalias 22, 10680 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900

British Council

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.671.9701 Tel: 210.725.6440

EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3, Syntagma, Tel: 210.361.8612

Kolonaki Square 17 106 73 Athens Tel: 210.369.2333

ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4, Ampelokipoi,

Instituto Cervantes

Tel: 210.725.5860

Mitropoleos 23, 105 57 Athens, Tel: 210.363.4117

Goethe Institut

Omirou 14-16, 100 33 Athens, Tel: 210.366.1000

Onassis Cultural Centre

Syngrou Ave. 107-109, 117 45 Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000

Instituto Italiano di Cultura Patission (28 Oktovriou) 47 Tel: 210.369.2333, 210.524.2646

ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Vas. Constantinou 14, Athens Tel: 210.756.4191-2

ARGENTINA

Vas. Sophias 59, Athens Tel: 210.724.4158

ARMENIA

Tel: 210.747.5660

FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens, FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.339.1000

FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychico.

Tel: 210.674.9585

GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24,

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.2186

GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Athens, Tel: 210.728.5111

HUNGARY Karneadou 25, Kolonaki Tel: 210.725.6800

INDIA Kleanthous 3, Mets, Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2345

IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16, Patisia, Tel: 210.674.1436

IRAQ Mazaraki 4, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.8276

IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7, Mets, Tel: 210.723.2405

ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1,

K. Palaiologou 95, Athens, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145

P. Psychico, Tel: 210.670.5500

AUSTRALIA

JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri.

ITALY Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.361.7260

Kifisias & Alexandras, Ampelokipoi, Tel: 210.870.4000

Tel: 210.670.9900

AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Av. 4,

Tel: 210.674.4161

Athens, Tel: 210.725.7270

AZERBAIJAN

Skoufa 10, Athens, Tel: 210.363.2721

84 | insider athens

BRAZIL Vassilis Sofias 23, Athens

CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6,

ALGERIA

send us an e-mail at: subscriptions@insider-magazine.gr or give us a call at: 210.729.8634

Hatzikosta 3, Athens, Tel: 210.641.0788

Sina 31, 10680 Athens Tel: 210.339.8600

Tel: 210.687.6200

35.000 readers get the best of Greece each month.

Subscribe to Insider and never miss another issue!

BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

BANGLADESH

JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychico.

KAZAKHSTAN Imittou 122, Papagou Tel: 210.654.7765

KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens.

Tel: 210.698.4080

Marathonodromon 119, Palaio Psychiko Tel: 210.672.0250

KUWAIT Marathonodromon 27,

BELGIUM

LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychico,

Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.0314

P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3593 Tel: 210.675.5873

LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49, Kolonaki

TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8, Athens,

Goudi. Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535

LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38, Athens

UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei, Tel:

Private Hospitals

LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofi-

UAE Kifissias Av. 290 & N. Paritsi 2,

Advanced Medical Services, Symmetria Building

MALTA

UK

MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14, Kolonaki,

USA

MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei.

URUGUAY

MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5,

VATICAN

NETHERLANDS Vas Konstantinou 5-7,

VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19,

NIGERIA Streit 17, Filothei Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens

VIETNAM Yakinthon 50, Psychico,

tou Vamva 2, SyntagmaTel: 210.725.6400 V. Sofias 96, Athens, Tel: 210.778.5138 Tel: 210.729.4780

Tel: 210.699.0660

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.4210 Mets, Tel: 210.725.4900

Tel: 210.724.6173

PAKISTAN Loukianou 6, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.729.0122

PALESTINE Giassemion 13,

P. Psychico. Tel.: 210.672.6061-3

PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias,

Piraeus, Tel: 210.428.6441

PERU

Semitelou 2, Athens, Tel: 210.779.2761

PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychico.

Tel: 210.672.1837

POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.679.7700

PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784

QATAR Perikleous 2 & Kifissias Av. 212, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.725.5031 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7,

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.8875

RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28,

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.5235

SAUDI ARABIA Palaiologhou 2 & Agias

Annis, Halandri, Tel: 210.671.6911

SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Athens, Tel: 210.777.4344

SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou. Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.677.1980

SLOVENIA Kifissias Av. 280 & Dimokra-

tias 1, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.0090-091

SOUTH AFRICA

Kifissias 60, Maroussi. Tel: 210.610.6645

SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, Plaka, Tel: 210.921.3123

SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7, Athens, Tel: 210.726.6100

SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.723.0364-6

TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.5122 Representative office THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 &

Kyprou, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.9065

210.680.0230

Tel: .210.677.0220

Ploutarchou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.727.2600 Vas. Sofias 91, Athens, Tel: 210.721.2951 Menandrou 1, Kifissia, Tel: 210.361.3549 Mavili 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3598

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.9169

Tel. 210.612.8733, 210.675.3080.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Emergencies

Tel. 210.729.4483

Tel: 210.726.3000

Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016.

They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer.

Ipirou 1, Athens.

Duty Pharmacies

Call 1434, Also check newspapers for listings.

Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434

Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777

Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coast Guard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000

ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 1158

PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon,

Ethnikis Antistaseos 66, Halandri.

Tel: 210.677.3573 www.symmetria.gr

CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS

Asklipiou St. 31, Athens, Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000 www.centralclinic.gr

EUROCLINIC

Diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre.

Athanasiadou 9, Athens, (near Mavili Sq.), Tel: 210.641.6600

EURODENTICA

Specialized dental care Patision 150, Athens, Tel: 210.866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi, Athens, Tel: 210.619.5760-1, El. Venizelou 162, Kallithea, Athens, Tel: 210.956.5365

YGEIA

Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi, Tel: 210.686.7000, www.ygeia.gr

IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER)

Areos 36, P. Faliro.

Tel: 210.989.2100-20. Distomou 5-7, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.8100

METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL

Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El. Venizelou, N. Faliro. Tel: 210.480.9000 www.metropolitan-hospital.gr

IASO

Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.618.4000

MITERA

Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.686.9000

public Hospitals ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL

Vas. Pavlou 1, Voula. Tel: 210.895.8301-4

EVANGELISMOS

Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.720.1000

KAT HOSPITAL

Nikis 2, Kifissia, Tel: 210.628.0000 Specialized trauma unit.

TZANNEIO

Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus, Tel: 210.451.9411-9

Paediatric Hospitals

PHYSICIANS

EUROCLINIC PAEDON

Ioannis Bitzos, MD

Health

Tel: 210.729.4356

Antheon 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.671.7590

Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900

PAEDON AGIA SOFIA HOSPITAL Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.746.7000

(ENGLISH SPEAKING) Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery, Harilaou Trikoupi 62, Kifissia, Tel: 210.808.0682

heart & vascular centrE E.N. Deliargyris, MD FACC FSCAI Interventional cardiologist. Southern Athens.

Vakchou 2 & Vas. Kostantinou, Tel: 210.897.6276, www.heartline.gr

Lia D. Papathanakou

Dermatologist – Venerologist Adult / Pediatric Dermatology Patriarchou Ioakim 44, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4502, 6974355942.

Newspapers & Magazines

English media

TUNISIA

Tel: 210.674.2120

Athens Insider, the bi-monthly magazine for Greece in English

The International New York Times

carries the English version of

Kathimerini

Radio Athens International Radio 104,4

Good Morning Athens at 10am, English programs at 11am, music programs on weekdays at 9pm, weekends at 1pm.

Peiraios 100, Athens, Tel: 210.341.1610

GREEK LANGUAGE

Schools

LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychico,

The Athens Center

48 Archimidous Street, Mets, Athens 11636, Greece Tel: 210.701.5242

CELT Athens

77 Academias Street, 106 78 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210.330.1455

Greek House

Dragoumi 7, 145 61 Kifissia, Tel: 210.808.5186

Hellenic American Union

22 Massalias str., 106 80 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900

Omilo Greek Language And Culture Panagi Tsaldari 13 (4th floor), 15122 Maroussi, Tel: 210.612.2706

International SCHOOLS St Catherine's British Embassy School

Sofoklis Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi Tel: 210.282.9750

St. Lawrence College Anemon St, Koropi, Tel: 210.891.7000

A.J. Kanellopoulos, MD

American Community Schools of Athens

Dimitris Linos, MD FACS

Byron College

Eye Surgeon, Tsoha 17, Athens, Tel: 210.747.2777 General Surgeon, Kifissias 227, Kifissia, Tel: 210.612.5001-2

Aghias Paraskevis Ave. 129, Halandri, Tel: 210.639.3200 Filolaou 7, Gerakas, Tel: 210.604.7722

insider athens | 85

Advertise in our listings, and reach thousands of customers! email us at: ads@insider-magazine.gr

New tel: 138, Tel. (defective): 129 OTE customer service: 134 International call information (English, French & German): 169 www.ote.gr

Road Assistance ELPA: 104

Public Power Corporation (DEI)

www.ika.gr

Greek Manpower Employment Organization (OAED)

www.oaed.gr, Tel: 210 99 89 000

Public Services

Paramythia

Cycladon 11, Glyka Nera, Tel: 210.600.3196

Play and Learn

Kassaveti 22, Kifissia, Tel: 210.801.1428

German kindergartens

Administration Information Center (paperwork assistance) on weekdays 8am-3pm (KEP): Tel: 177, ww.kep.gov.gr

O mikros Antonis

Tel: 148, www.hnms.gr

Scuola maternal italiana de Atene

Water Supply & Sewage (EYDAP)

Citizen’s Rights Ombudsman:

Il Mulino magico

Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia, Tel: 210.202.0274 Troados 23, Ag Paraskevi, Tel: 210.600.3148

German School in Athens

Dimokritou 6 & Germanikis Scholis Athinon Maroussi, Tel: 210 6199260-5

Greek German School

25 Martiou & Vernardou, Vrylissia Tel: 210.682.0566

International School of Athens Xenias and Artemidos, Kifissia, Tel: 210.623.3888

Lycée Franco-Hellénique Eugène Delacroix

Chlois & Trikalon, Ag. Paraskevi Tel: 211.300.9121

Scuola Statale Italiana

Odos Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia Tel: 210.228.2720

St Catherine's British Embassy School

Sofoklis Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi Tel: 210.282.9750

St. Lawrence College

Anemon St, Koropi, Tel: 210.891.7000

Universities University of Indianapolis

Ipitou 9, Athens, Tel: 210.323.6647

DEREE

Gravias 6, Aghia Paraskevi, Tel: 210.600.9800

ALBA Graduate Business School Athinas Ave. & Areos 2A, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210.896.4531

English kindergartens

International Kindergartens

Aghias Ioulianis, Pallini, Tel: 210.607.1700

The Cottage Kindergarten Psaron 74, Halandri Tel: 210.682.7629

Early Learning

Rizountos 53, Elliniko Tel: 210.961.8763

Hopscotch International Kindergarten Ag. Triandos 93, Vari Tel: 210.965.3985

Learning Steps

Ath. Diakou 81 & Ydras 5, Kifissia, Tel: 210.620.5818

Melina’s Kindergarten

Harilaou Trikoupi 16, Kifissia Tel: 210.801.2719

Stephanou Delta, P. Psychico Tel: 210.679.8100

Benakeios Library

Anthimou Gazi 2, Athens Tel: 210.367.1027

British Council Library Kolonaki Sq. 17, Kolonaki Tel: 210.363.3211/5

French Institute Library

Prince Allen The English Nursery School Lysimahou 8, Vari Tel: 210.965.6800

French kindergartens Au petit bonheur 50 Iraklitou, Glyfada, Tel: 210 9658 207

Mary Poppins

Spartis 36 & Harilaou Trikoupi, Kifissia Tel: 210 80 11 570 4, Kodrou, Filothei, Tel: 210.677.3803

Tel: 210.929.0200

MASTERCARD

Tel: 00.800.1188.703.03

VISA

Tel: 00.800.1163.803.04 Post offices operate weekdays 8am-2pm. The main post offices in Athens are located at SYNTAGMA SQUARE and OMONIA SQUARE at Aeolou 100 and open weekdays 7:30am-8pm, Sat 7:30am-2pm, and Sun 9am1:30pm.

Country Code: 30 City Code: 210 international calls first dial 00,

then the country code.

To call from a Public pay- phone buy a phone card at the kiosks.

Prepaid mobile phone cards (SIM cards) are available for €5 at kiosks, post offices, mini markets and mobile phone company stores.

German Archaeological Institute Library Pheidiou 1, Athens Tel: 210.362.0270

Goethe Institute Library Hellenic American Union Greek Library

Lakonias 4-6, Voula Tel: 210.895.9654

DINERS CLUB

31 Sina St, Athens Tel: 210.362.4301

Peter Pan

Business College of Athens

86 | insider athens

Athens College Library

Omirou 14-16, Athens Tel: 210.360.8111

Vougliameni, Tel: 210.967.1970

Les Alouettes

Tatoiou 2 & Othonos 77, Kifissia Tel: 210.808.8008

Souedias 54, Athens Tel: 210.723.6313

Peek-a-boo PreSchool

American University of Athens Kifisias & Sochou 4, Neo Psichiko, Tel: 210.725.9301

Libraires

American School of Classical Studies Blegen

Campion School

Tel: 210.324.4975

Italian kindergartens

Weather Attica,

5 Hatziyiannis Mexis (near the Hilton Hotel), Tel: 210 72 89 640

AMERICAN EXPRESS

Barbayiannis, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.2527

In case of power failure: Tel: 210.523.9939 www.dei.gr

In case of water cut: Tel: 1202, www.eydap.gr

LOST OR STOLEN CREDIT CARDS

Money

Social Security & Health insurance (IKA)

Phone Post

Telephone & Internet Services (OTE)

Masalias 22 (7th floor), Athens Tel: 210.362.9886

Italian Archeological Institute Library Parthenonos 14-16, Acropolis Tel: 210921.4024

Italian Institut Library Patision 47, Omonia

National Library

Tzavella 25, Syntagma, Tel: 210.382.0657

Nordic Library

7 Kavalotti St, Makrigianni Tel: 210.924.9210, 210.924.9211

advertise in our Advertise business here and on our website: listings, andyour reach www.insider-publications.com thousands of customers

tram

Tel: 210.998.0222

AAA Royal Prestige Tel: 210.988.3221

From the Port of Piraeus

Alitalia Tel: 210.998.8888 American

Convecta Travel Agency & Limousine Services

Tram itineraries are only from Syntagma to S.E.F (in Neo Faliro) and from Syntagma to Asklipio Voulas. From Monday to Thursday, trams operate from 5.am until midnight and non-stop from Friday morning to Sunday midnight. www.tramsa.gr

Air Taxis (Helicopter and

Limousines Kacaya

TAXIS

Tel: 210.361.3373

plane charters) Tel: 210.938.4149

British Airways Tel: 210.353.0453 Continental Tel: 210.353.4312 Cyprus Airways Tel: 210.353.4100 Easy Jet Tel: 211.198.0013 El Al Tel: 210.934.1500-1 Emirates Tel: 210.933.3400 Etihad Tel: 210.324.1010 Iberia www.iberia.com/gr Lufthansa Tel: 210.617.5200 Olympic Airways Tel: 801.801.0101 Qatar Airways Tel: 210.950.8700 Singapore Tel: 210.994.2567 Swiss / Crossair Tel: 210.617.5320 Tunisair Tel: 210.969.6496 Turkish Tel: 210.988.5700

Airport

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport Spata. Tel: 210.353.0000, 210.353.1000. www.aia.gr

24 HOUR VIP TRANSPORT SERVICE

WSW Skycap Services at Athens Airport provides Meet & Greet, Baggage Hauling and Transport Service.

Tel: 210.353.0100 www.skycap.gr For info about the public bus lines please check our section public transport

Car rental

Ada Rent-a-Car

Astra Limousine Service

Tel: 210.922.0333/807.9996

Tel: 210.322.5090 Tel: 210.323.4120

Combined tickets for metro, buses and trolleys (€1,40) are available from metro stations and central ticket booths, valid within 90 mins of validation for all public transport - except the airport service, which costs 8€.

EXPRESS BUS from/to airport

X93 Kifisos Intercity Bus Station - Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to the intercity bus (KTEL) terminals KIFISOS and LIOSION X95 Syntagma – Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to Syntagma Square at Athens city center.

X96 Peiraias – Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to Piraeus central passenger port terminals.

X97 Dafni Metro Station – Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to DAFNI metro station.

Tickets available at the Arrivals Hall; validate on board. Fare is €6 One-way travel time estimates**: X93 (65’ min), X95 (70’ min), X96 (90’ min), X97 (70’ min).

For further information dial 185 or visit www.oasa.gr, www.ametro. gr. For info on trains visit www.proastiakos.gr

Arena Tel: 210.894.6883,

HELLENIC RAILWAYS ORGANIsATION

Auto Union

Karolou 1. Tel: 210.529.7002, www.ose.gr

Tel: 210.322.0087 210.614.7400

Tel: 210.602.0162

Avis Tel: 210.322.4951 Budget Tel: 210.921.4771-3 Europcar Tel: 210.924.8810-8

Hertz Tel: 210.998.2000 Michael Stamou Luxury

Rentals

Tel: 210.922.2442/43

Sixt Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.570.6895, 210.922.0171

ATHENS METRO Line 1 (Piraeus-Kifissia) 5am-midnight, Line 2 (Anthoupoli-Elliniko) 5.30ammidnight, Line 3 (Aghia Marina-Doukissis Plakentias) 5.30am-midnight Line 3 (Aghia Marina-Airport) 5.30am22.52pm and 06.30am-23.30pm.

The last itinerary is 2 hours later on Friday and Saturday night than it is during the week. www.ametro.gr

Taxis from the airport have a flat rate of €35 to Central Athens. Between midnight and 5am double tariff applies.

Note: If you suspect that you have been overcharged, you can call the tourist police 0n 171

INTERCITY BUSES Terminal 1: Buses for Igoumenitsa,

Ioannina, Kavala, Loutraki, Patra, the Peloponese, and Thessaloniki. Kifissou 100, Tel: 210.512.4910-1, www.ktel.org

Terminal 2: Buses for Delphi, Evia,

Galaxidi, Karpenisi, Katerini, Lamia, Livadia, Thiva and Volos. Liosion 260.

For KTEL itineraries all over Greece call 14505

RADIO TAXI Enotita Tel: 210.645.9000 Ermis Tel: 210.411.5200 Ikarus Tel: 210.515.2800 Kifissia Tel: 210.801.4000 Piraeus Tel: 210.418.2333 Radio Taxi Glyfada

Northern and Eastern Aegean Islands: Gates A & B Chios, Ikaria, Lesvos, Samos, Dodecanese Islands: Gate E Kalymnos, Kos Leros, Patmos, Rhodes, Saronic Gulf Islands: Gates G & E Aegina, Hydra, Poros, Spetses, Crete: Gate A Aghios Nikolaos, Chania, Iraklio, Kastelli (Kissamos), Rethymno, Cycladic Islands: Gates B, G & D Astipalea, Folegandros, Kimolos, Kithnos, Milos, Serifos, Sifnos: Gate B Amorgos, Donoussa, Ios, Iraklia, Koufonissi, Mykonos, Santorini, Schinoussa, Syros, Tinos: Gates G&D Naxos, Paros: Gate Gtt

Superfast Ferries Daily departures, Greece - Italy: from Patras and Igoumenitsa to Ancona and Bari Head office: 23-125 Syngrou Avenue & 3 Torva Street 11745 Athens. Tel:210.891.9000 Reservations: Athens: 210.891.9130 Thessaloniki: 2310.560.700, www. superfast.com

Hellenic Seaways 210 41 99 000 www.hellenicseaways.gr

Anek Lines www.anek.gr Domestic lines: 210 41 97 420 International lines: 210 41 97 430 Minoan Lines www.minoan.gr Tel: 801 11 75 000

Tel: 210.960.5600

There is a booking fee of €2 added to the meter, and a €3,40 + VAT for a pre-arranged meeting. For PET taxis there is an extra charge of €5.

YACHT CHARTERS A1 Yacht Trade Consortium

Akti Themistokleous 8, Marina Zeas, Piraeus. Tel: 210.458.7100

Ghiolman Yachts

Seaports

Tel: 210.965.2300-22

Public transport

Air Malta

Ferries

LIMOUSINES

Airlines

Aegean Tel: 801.11.20000 Air France KLM

Sea ports Lavrio Tel: 22920.27711, 22920.22089 Piraeus Tel: 210.422.6000-4 Rafina Tel: 22940.22300, 22940.28888

Ferries

Ferries run year-round. For information on seasonal schedules contact a travel agent or call the Port Police on 210.422.6000

Filellinon 7, Syntagma. Tel: 210.323.3696

Northstar

Poseidonos 9 & Achilleos, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.988.4000

PGA

Shipping Posidonos 61, P. Faliro.

Tel: 210.985.9400

Seahorse Alkyonidon 83 (Marina), Voula. Tel: 210.895.2212

Seascape Poseidonos Ave. 29,

Alimos.

Tel/Fax: 210.985.8301

Valef Yachts Pl. Chatzikonstanti 2, Piraeus. Tel:210.451.2010 Vernicos Yachts Posidonos 11, Kalamaki. Tel: 210.985.0122-8

insider athens | 87

Hommage to Toulouse-Lautrec Widely regarded as the first artist to elevate advertising to the status of a fine art, Toulouse-Lautrec was singularly responsible for an extraordinary shift in the history of art, obliterating the boundaries between high art (painting, drawing, sculpture) and low (posters and other forms of visual culture) art. He paved the way for pop artist icons such as Alphonse Mucha to Andy Warhol. In 2001, a hundred renowned graphic designers from around the world designed a poster each, paying tribute to the artist and his work on the100 year anniversary of his death. The exhibition has since traveled to many cities around Europe, Asia and America and now comes to Athens with five original posters by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and one by Pierre Bonnard, sixteen posters produced by sixteen Greek artists, and accompanied by portraits of ToulouseLautrec, produced by students of the Vakalo College of Art & Design. Benaki Museum, 138 Pireos St, www.benaki.gr, until 12 November

88 | insider athens

insider athens | 89

90 | insider athens