Insider 132 April 2017

THE CITY MAGAZINE OF

April 2017 Year 16. Issue 132 €4.50 ISSN 1790-3114

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ATHENS

TASTE GREECE

EAT The Global Greeks, Meet the Fish, the Kitchen Anarchist, Cooking up Memories Diane FarrLouis DRINK Athens’ Best Wine Bars, Hellenic Wine Heroes TRAVEL Grape Escapes, Rhodes Revival, Kyrimai Appetites ART & CULTURE Documenta for Dummies, Michael Landy canvasses Athens

ARTS, ENTERTAINMENT, FOOD & WINE, NIGHTLIFE, SHOPPING, NOVELTIES, MAPS AND MORE

Nowhere is food as intrinsic a part of social interaction as in Greece. From cafes spilling with raucous parea to all the festive tables shortly to be heaving under the weight of mageirefta and spit-roasted lamb dishes this Easter, the Greek kitchen is where family and friends gather around to clink glasses, share a communal lunch, exchange stories and generally celebrate life. A Greek hostess rarely says she is throwing a dinner party. Rather, she merely suggests that she is setting the table (strono trapezi) implying that it is open house, anyone can drop in, there will be enough food to feed an army.

But for a country so obsessed with food and drink, it is only in the past couple of years that we have witnessed a real foodie revolution – Greeks taking their produce seriously enough to want to share it with the rest of the world.

So gone are the days when feta that lined supermarket shelves in the US or Europe originated from everywhere else but Greece and if Greek wine did come up, it was always retsina. And if you wanted to eat Greek food, it was only available at tavernas or diners - and it certainly wasn’t considered haute gastronomy.

Now, we have high-end, chic Greek outposts, dishing up refined Greek classics all over the world from Dubai to New Delhi. Greek wines have wound their way into discerning sommelier’s lists at leading restaurants worldwide and you can now get Greek products regularly at supermarkets.

Of all the baby steps that have been made to capture a global audience, it is really Greek wine that has made the boldest advancements for its cause.

As buyers get savvier, the accent is now on consistent quality, combined with a knack of engaging the consumer with the narrative. And few take pride in weaving tales around food as Greeks do.

In this issue, there is much to celebrate: the unsung heroes of the wine revolution in Greece; the city’s mushrooming “guerrilla gourmet” revolution (with Kitchen Anarchist Chef Dimitris Katrivesis among the vanguard of the movement) ; and last but not least, those who’ve decided to take two of Greece’s biggest sells - tourism and gastronomy – and cater to a new breed that we like to call “the thinking, drinking traveler”.

Greece, you’ve never tasted so good! Yia mas and Kalo Pascha!

Sudha Nair-Iliades

Publisher

Photos

Sudha Nair - Iliades

Kelsey Moore, Liza Karamalegkou, Stefanos Giannoulis

Athens Insider published in English in Greece € 30, Abroad € 60

Amanda Dardanis

Contributors in this Issue

Bonjour Athènes published in French in Greece € 20, Abroad € 40

French Editor

Mike Sweet, Diane Farr Louis, Katerina Tsitsipi, Anna Roins

Editor

Anita Robert

Client Relations Krysta Foteinopoulou

Graphic Design Fokia Kitsou

Accounts Dimosthenis Therianos Social Media Caroline Pateras

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Founder Steve Pantazopoulos

Legal Counsel Christos Christopoulos

Prepress and Printing Grafima

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Amanda Dardanis

A print journalist for over two decades, Australian-born Amanda Dardanis started out at News Corp Australia where she has covered specialist rounds from news and politics; property and tourism; to crime and entertainment. In London, she held senior creative roles at glossy titles including Marie-Claire, Woman’s Own, and the Mail on Sunday’s YOU magazine. Since moving to Athens in 2009, she has written on Greece for international publications like The Times London, the Guardian UK and Australia’s Sunday Telegraph – and also contributes to local Greek publications.

Anita Robert Anita has had a long and interesting stint with the Swiss print media and in teaching journalism to budding reporters before moving on to a career in public relations for international organizations and public institutions. She moves back to her first love – writing – with her first piece for Athens Insider on Documenta 14.

Fokia Kitsou Fokia is Insider’s graphic designer and a student of graphic design at the Technological Educational Institution of Athens.

Born and raised in Athens which she adores, her native city has often been the subject of her photographic essays. Fokia is passionate about travel, art and fashion and plans to further her studies in the field of fashion design.

Krysta Foteinopoulou After studying Broadcasting and Journalism at the Univesity of Wolverhampton, Krysta has reported live for the Greek public broadcaster ERT and covered European affairs and business news for the privately-owned SKAI TV. She has also contributed to several Greek sites and is now the newest addition to the Insider Team.

Diana Farr Louis

Diana moved from New York to Athens in 1972. She is the author of three cookbooks, Prospero’s Kitchen about the Ionian islands, Feasting and Fasting in Crete, and, most recently, A Taste of Greece, recipes, cuisine and culture, a handful of guidebooks and travel books, and dozens of articles for publications in Greece and abroad. She has a monthly column called Eating Well is the Best Revenge on weeklyhubris.com and is a regular contributor to www.culinarybackstreets.com.

Anna Roins

Anna Roins is a lawyer and a freelance journalist who writes articles on social and community issues. She is also a regular contributor to AUTHORLINK, assigned to conduct interviews with bestselling global authors.

Mike Sweet

A documentary producer for BBC Television in the 90s, Michael worked in broadcasting in South Asia before establishing his TV production business in Australia. He lived in Athens for almost four years before moving back to Melbourne and has continued contributing to Athens Insider and for the English language edition of Australia’s largest circulation Greek newspaper, Neos Kosmos. Michael combines his writing with producing independent documentary films.

Katerina Tsitsipi Born in North Staffordshire, John Carr has a BA in history and MA in sociology from Leicester University. He has worked in Greece as a correspondent for the Associated Press, Wall Street Journal Europe, The Times of London and Vatican Radio and as broadcaster, writer and actor since 1978. He has published several books including, The America Capsule (2005),Your Eyes Fourteen (2007), On Spartan Wings (2012), Sparta’s Kings (2012), The Defence and Fall of Greece 1940-41 (2013), RHNS Averof (2014) and the hugely popular Greekisms for Dummies (2016)

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What do you do when you "do the duck"?

Why you don't want to "eat soup" in Greece!

What happens when you "become billiard balls"?

Discover the answer to these and many other quirky colloquialisms – including the enduring mystery of Mrs Alexander’s buttons! A perfect gift for anyone who intends to spend time in Greece and get under the skin of the local culture.

Treat yourself or a loved one to this laugh-out-loud informative guide to the colourful linguistic secrets of the Greeks, written by Insider’s own John Carr (with Paul Anastasi), and accompanied by wonderfully humourous illustrations by Iason Iliades. insider athens | 3

Vassilenas Goes to Town

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ART & CULTURE

A Conspiracy of Beauty

Three decades after her first award-winning memoir, Australian writer Gillian Bouras creates a poignant time-capsule of family life in a small Greek village, writes Anna Roins.

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The Greek counter example

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Documenta for Dummies

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Memories of Someone

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Michael Landy: Canvasses Athens

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A vivid, two-handed gala that bypasses the fashionable and politically-correct, to throw the spotlight on some of society’s least-likely artists.

For the first time in its history, the prestigious art event Documenta has split itself into two and is currently showing in Athens. Anita Robert answers all your questions about this must-see exhibition.

Michael Landy: Canvasses Athens

American photographer Paul Cohn spent 18 months documenting the very Greek cultural phenomena of Proskinitaria: those roadside memorials that fill us with such a sense of loss and sorrow.

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They call him “The Man who destroyed all his Belongings” – and now British artist provocateur Michael Landy has set his sets on capturing Athens.

TRAVEL

Knights in White Satin

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Feeding your Holiday Appetite

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Grape Escapes

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Mike Sweet entices the medieval monopati of Rhodes Old Town to reveal its tempestuous stories and ancient secrets.

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Kyrimai in the Mani proffers a local culture and history as rich and varied as its exquisite cuisine.

Athens Insider suggests an intoxicating destination to quench your Greek wine curiosity, Fantoxometocho in Crete.

Meet the Fish

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In a Glass of its Own

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Sofia Perpera, of New Wines of Greece, leads a masterclass in the Hellenic wine stars of tomorrow.

The Global Greek

Toasts of the Town

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Amanda Dardanis uncorks her favourite Athens wine bars

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My Athens

Ardent oenophile and wine scribe Constantinos Stergides on the Great Greek Grape.

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Cooking up Memories

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Seasoned food writer Diana Farr Louis falls in love with her adopted home all over again

The Global Greek

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Sweet Longings

Five outstanding Greek Gastronomy outposts that are spreading the pure joy of Eating Greek around the globe.

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Meet the Fish

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Vassilenas Goes to Town

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Sweet Longings

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The Kitchen Anarchist

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Black Duck: A Homely encounter

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Sections Arts & Events

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Fast Lane

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Art & Culture

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Travel 20 Gastronomy

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Kaleidoscope

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Katerina Tsitsipis brings to life the Athens institution that is the Rentis fish market and demystifies the art of buying and ordering fish in Greece.

A 97-year old institution brings its time-tested cuisine to a new urban address in the heart of Athens Introducing Arnaud Larher, the official “patissier” of Grande Bretagne, and the man whose lemon pie has made him a star in France.

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Chef Dimitris Katrivesis’ La Pantera Negra is an original, animated addition to the Athenian foodscape.

You’ll love the wonderfully arty and hospitable vibe at this popular multi-space hot spot near Syntagma.

Cover image: Anamnesia

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Exhibitions

arts&events From April 5-September 17 MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ART DESTE Anniversary Exhibition (1999–2015) Admire this stirring showcase of nine previous recipients of the prestigious DESTE art prize as they exhibit together for the first time to celebrate the 18th anniversary of the 1st DESTE Prize. Participating artists are: Panayota Tzamourani, Georgia Sagri, Maria Papadimitriou, Christodoulos Panayiotou, Loukia Alavanou, Eirene Efstathiou, Anastasia Douka, Kostas Sahpazis, and Angelo Plessas.Neophytou Douka 4, tel: 210.722.8321, www.museum@cycladic.gr

April 6-May 21 BENAKI MUSEUM Art Nouveau The decorative and popular Art Nouveau movement is elevated at this collaborative viewing of select items from France, Germany, Austria, England and Belgium. Within the framework of the Co-operation Agreement between the Hellenic Ministry of Culture and Sports and the Ministerium für Wissenschaft, Forschung und Kunst Baden-Württemberg, the exhibition seeks to display significant aspects of the Art Nouveau movement, while also highlighting its complex character. Entry €7.

Koumpari 1, tel:210.367.1000. www.benaki.gr

Until June 30 FRISSIRAS MUSEUM New Horizons: The Identities of Others A presentation of contemporary figurative trends in painting from all over the world.

Each artist approaches in their own way, the notion of identity, expressing not only individual, but also collective aspirations – and showing that identity can function through art as both limitation and liberation.

Entrance is €6. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

Monis Asteriou 3 & 7, Plaka, tel: 210.323.4678, www.frissirasmuseum.com

Until May 22 LEVENTIS GALLERY Charmed Lives in Greece An exhibition exploring the friendship between three remarkable artistic figures - Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika, John Craxton and the writer Patrick Leigh Fermor, who were united by their love of Greece.

Through works of art, extracts from texts, photographs, letters, manuscripts and publications, the exhibition tracks both their relationship and their artistic and literary careers. The showcase also addresses the places which inspired them – Hydra, Kardamyli, Crete and Corfu – and where they found hospitable settings to live and create.

Leonidou, Nicosia, Cyprus, tel: +357 226.668.838, www.leventisgallery.org

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B & M. THEOCHARAKIS FOUNDATION Greek Seascapes

Until May 7

We could look at pictures of the Greek Sea all day, so we’ll definitely be checking out the new Greek Seascape Exhibition amalgamating many great works from the National Gallery, the Museum Alexander Soutzos and B. & M. Theocharakis Foundation. The sea is directly connected with the life of the Greeks, their history and experiences, and the showcase promises a journey filled with the light and palettes of the singular Greek waters.

Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, tel: 210.361.1206, www.thf.gr

May 10 until September 30 B & M THEOCHARAKIS FOUNDATION Maria Callas An unmissable tribute to the most famous and captivating Greek woman of modern times, Maria Callas. Theocharakis Foundation presents more than two hundred personal belongings of the magnificent opera diva, whose dramatic personal life mirrored the operatic heroines she portrayed on stage. The exhibition includes theater costumes, dresses, furniture, jewelry, handwritten letters, letters by relatives, friends and artists, creating a narrative that records the life of the tragic and lyrical icon. Entry is €6.

Vasillissis Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, tel: 210.361.1206, www.thf.gr

Theatre

Until April 9 GIALINO MUSICAL THEATRE The Magic of Dreams Run away with the circus as Cirque Musical presents “The Magic of Dreams”, a spectacular new modern circus show, featuring risky aerial acrobatics, dramatic juggling, illusions, contortions, fire displays, contemporary dance – and many other crowd-pleasing theatrical antics. Showtime is 70 minutes. Sundays at 5.30pm. Tickets are €10 (free for children under 12).

Leof. Synggrou 143, N. Smyrni, tel: 210.931.5600.

May 31-June 7

Odeon Herodes Atticus Madama Butterfly The perfect artistic duet as Puccini’s exquisite aria is performed on Athens’ most majestic outdoor stage, the 2,000 year-old Odeon Herodes Atticus. Set in Japan at the beginning of the 20th century, Madama Butterfly is famous for its wonderful arias, and its dramatic story, and remains one of Puccini’s most touching masterpieces.

Tickets from €15-100. An Athens and Epiduarus Festival 2017 highlight, the performance is in Italian with Greek and English subtitles.

Areopagitou Dionisiou, tel: 210.324.1807. www.nationalopera.gr

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arts&events Music

Until May 6 ATHENS CONSERVATORY Piano in the Forte Hear five internationally-renowned elite Greek pianists tickle the ivories with a repertoire ranging from Baroque to classical and romantic. This popular concert cycle is now in its fourth year and represents both the geographic and generational diversity of the country’s talent. Most performances will be held at the Athens Conservatory (with others at the Municipal Theatre of Piraeus and Lycée New Smyrna High School).

Tickets to each concert are €10. Performances start at 8.30pm.

Rigillis 17- B’ & Leof. Vasileos Georgiou, tel: 210.724.0673, www.athensconservatoire.gr

June 17

PLATEIA NEROU Jamiroquai @ Release Athens Pioneers of future funk Jamiroquai – who gave us global 90s dance anthems Virtual Insanity and Cosmic Girl - will headline at this year’s Release Athens Festival in their first open-air event in Greece, alongside British soul star Michael Kiwanuka. The new Release Music Festival has re-ignited the capital’s festival calendar and turned it into an internationally-revered stop on the global festival circuit. Pre-sale tickets for Jamiroquai are €35 for a single and €65 for doubles. Limited VIP tickets start at €90. Available from Public, Seven Spots, Reload, Media Markt and www.viva.gr or 11876.

Plateia Nerou/Water Square (open air), Falirou.

TERRA VIBE PARK Evanescence @ Rockwave Hear electrically-charged rock outfit Evanescence, the band from Little Rock, Arkansas, as they leave their footprint at Rockwave Festival 2017, performing stellar hits such as “Bring me to Life” and “Going Under”. Formed in 1995 by Amy Lee and Ben Moody, Evanescence became one of the most popular rock bands of the 2000s. Their signature sound is a driving beat and “indie” heavy metal, merged with Amy Lee’s powerfully moody vocals. Pre-sale tickets are €33 (€55 for two tickets); €45 on the day.

Malakasa, 37o xlm E.O. Athinon-Lamias, tel: 210 8820426. www. rockwavefestival.gr for ticket information.

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July 2 TECHNOPOLIS LP After the storming success of “Lost on You” and “Other People”, Greece has embraced American artist LP as one of their own. See her when she returns to Athens for another electric live concert experience where she’s sure to conquer the crowd with her unique timbre voice and singular aura.

100 Pireos Avenue, Gazi, tel: 210.369.2337, www.technopolis-athens.com

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Book Nook

A Conspiracy of Beauty Three decades after her first award-winning memoir, Australian writer Gillian Bouras returns to her chronicle of family life in a small Greek village, as seen through the eyes of a foreign wife, and creates a poignant time-capsule that’s hard to shake off, writes Anna Roins.

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ustralian author, Gillian Bouras, recipient of a New South Wales State Literary Award taught secondary school English in Melbourne before she and her family moved to a Peloponnese village in 1980. The enthralling account of her experience was described in her first memoir, A Foreign Wife. Thirty years later, she has written its sequel.

Seeing and Believing (2016), by Gialos Publishing, is a time-capsule of the kind that seeps into your consciousness; an examination of the interior and exterior folk-lore of Gillian’s life in a sleepy, Greek village. As you turn the pages, you can almost hear the chorus of cicadas and smell the fairied woodlands while your heart, tugged this way and that, bears witness to the fresh joys and sorrows of the next generation of her family.

Her writing is crisp and infusive when she describes rural Greece, ''…the deep silence of the dead, stifled heart of the day, in the peculiar suspension and the particular loneliness of siestas” and, “The conspiracy of beauty here continues to bind me and countless others fast and often helplessly''.

With a charming, dry humour she parallels life in Australia with that of her second home in Greece. For example, bath-times in Wimmera, Victoria, once entailed sharing a tub full of bore water that never lathered, whereas in the Peloponnese it involved standing in a little trough less than six inches deep above a donkey's stall. Hardly an improve-

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ment, though it was decades later.

She zooms in on the common nature of Greek people with expert aplomb. Their hilarious logic and their disinhibited misery are keenly felt. You will chuckle at, “this strange apparition whizzing by” - she at age 60, wearing a helmet (unheard of) - going for a bike-ride in the village, and how a young woman complained that she too would like to go on a bike-ride, “but what would people think?” In dark contrast, she describes the funeral of a young man and his father half-demented in agony draped over his son’s coffin which will make you reach for a tissue.

She examines the cycle of the seasons through the age-old habits of the village women she grew to love, their lack of autonomy scrupulously observed. She writes, “woe betide those who are different in any noticeable way” as any difference, “serves to undermine the certainties that anchor village life.” The push-pull of cultural identity and the longings of a displaced expatriate are interwoven amongst this. She adds, “In a strange way, I think I miss Australia more when I am there, becoming nostalgic for times and people that have vanished forever”.

She questions whether foreigners see Greece differently as opposed to how actual Greeks see themselves. The great writer, Kazantzakis maintained that the Greek “sees no visions without being mindful of ulterior motives…The foreigner, however, undergoes no such tearing of the heart, and thus is able to get to the heart and essence of Greece”.

Seeing and Believing is a rich, culturally authentic book written by an established Australian expat set against heartfelt family stories. Gillian recently said, “It is a good idea to celebrate the life you are living now rather than keep on mourning the one you have left behind.” Just how easy it is to do this, she acknowledges, is another matter altogether.

Seeing and Believing (Gialos Publishing, 20 December 2016) by Gillian Bouras.

It is a good idea to celebrate the life you are living now rather than keep on mourning the one you have left behind

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London says “Kalimera” to Greek Street Food London is in the grip of a Greek cuisine-swoon these days. Maybe it’s a longing to connect to a simpler way of life. Or a wistful bid to “taste” sunshine. Either way, Athens born and raised Télémaque Argyriou has made a big splash in the British capital with his roving “Kalimera” street food truck, which has fast become the face of modern greek cooking in vitamin D-deprived London Town.

Launched in November 2015, in Hoxton Street Market, Argyriou’s gourmet greek food truck has been all over the capital and now has permanent residency in Camden Market, where the enticing scent of lamb and mint gyros, deconstructed moussaka, and halloumi perfumes the grill-warmed breeze.

Argyiou is no slouch at the snappy marketing soundbite. He dubs his Kalimera operation - which is named after the family’s 200 year-old olive farm back here in Greece - “Extra Virgin Greek Food”, and says his delicious seasonal meals are like “tasty and affordable holidays”. His fierce love of cooking was inspired by his Greek grandmother, who in time-honoured yiayia fashion, worried that he wouldn’t eat properly when he moved temporarily to France, and so taught him the classics: moussaka, pastitsio, stuffed tomatoes, chicken soup and cheese pie.

Athens’ “Junk Food King “ repents for Lent The man who brought hipster junk food to the Athens Central Market of Renti, Chef Vassilis Kallidis, has made it that much harder to say no to Lent, with his new vegetarian pop-up venture.

Kallidis and his Überness team took over three dilapidated butcher shops in the Athens Central Market in early 2016 and transformed them into an avant-garde pop up eatery that pays homage to the roadside food trucks of Greece. Since then, Athens night owls have duly been flocking to this stark, no-frills eaterie to nosh down on his delectable fried chicken, hot dogs and other sinful late night cravings of the culinary kind.

From Saturday, March 24, Uberness has re-booted as a “Mad Maxinspired” restaurant for the period of Lent, serving vegetarian dishes with a nod to street food favourites from around the world, as well as Greek Lenten classics (such as taramosalata roe paste, chickpea fritters, and fried battered cod). Open from Wednesdays to Fridays (7pm-1am) and Saturdays and Sundays (from 1pm-1am), we do recommend booking, especially at weekends.

Leof. Geor. Papandreou 1215, Ag. Ioannis, Rentis, tel: 210.481.6320, www.uberness.org

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Hit me Baby one more time!

Had a beast of a day at the office? Incensed about the current state of geo-politics?

Suffer in silence no longer. At Greece’s first Rage Room, Limba, in Psirri, you can go postal and smash the place up. Owners, Syros and Eleni borrowed the idea from Argentina, hoping Limba would strike the perfect fun – and cathartic – note in our recessiongripped country.

So what exactly is a rage room? Well, it’s a basement where you can visit and break everything in sight. You put on a pair of safety overalls, gloves and mask. Select the relevant menu of destruction (they have different wrath packages, so if you’ve ever fantasized about smashing your PC or television, this is your moment!), take a baseball bat, crowbar or other weapon of choice and knock yourself out. You even get to pick the music to accompany your rage attack.It might all sound a bit “A Clockwork Orange” – but from just €5 a visit, it’s a hell of a lot cheaper than a therapist.

(Although, if you’re flush enough and angry enough, you can splurge on a €100 Chaos package that consists of 80 bottles, two television sets, five cell phones, five stem glasses, five shot glasses and 10 plates.)

Limba, Pittakis 6 Psiri. Tel. 6981 373351.

St Helen Holy Relics Visit Greece A once in a lifetime chance to see some of the Christian world’s most sacred artefacts in Greece beckons next month, as the relics of Saint Helena and the Holy Cross leave Italy for the first time since the Crusades.

The holy relics of St Helen and the Holy Cross will be on display from May 14 to June 15 at the Church of Agia Varvara (St. Barbara) in western Athens.

In tribute to the revered Christian saint, St Helen dedicated her life to helping the poor and contributing to the church. She is a noble figure in the Christian and Orthodox community, and is credited with a pilgrimage to Jerusalem during which she discovered the True Cross.

Thousands of theologians from around the world are expected to visit these fascinating ancient relics here in Athens this year. Since the Crusades, these relics have been housed in Venice, and it is widely believed that they have never before traveled. The Archbishop of Athens and Greece Ieronymos II will be in attendance for the official reception on May 14.

Lunch & Art Play St. George Lycabettus Hotel is Parents’ Best Little Helper on Saturdays with the return of their popular Lunch & Play sessions. While you indulge in an enticing lunch buffet (of fresh salads , pizza , pasta and desserts) at the 6th floor La Suite Lounge Restaurant, admiring your Acropolis-view advantage, the hotel’s “Athens Art Workshops” provides budding little Banksys (aged between 5-12) artistic outlet through interactive educational programs and creative workshops, designed to spark their imagination and skills. The workshops take place between noon and 2pm every Saturday at the SG Art Gallery of the hotel and the participation fee is €10. Information and enrollment: (Tues-Sat. 11-2pm) on 210. 729.0875 or email: athensartworkshops@gmail.com

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Art & Culture

Konstantinos Patsios, Blender Gallery

Bringing marginal art into the frame A compelling two-handed art gala that bypasses the fashionable and politically-correct, to delve into more provocative and meaningful themes.

“Dialogos Athens 2017“, an exhibition that goes under the title “The Greek counter example”, throws the spotlight on some of society’s least-likely artists, from the mentally-ill to the anonymous.

Curated by As. Professor Thanasis Moutsopoulos, “The Greek counter example” is a game of two distinct halves. The first part is dedicated to key Greek and international artists, presented by a selection of Greek and international galleries who have an active voice in Greece. The collection showcases unidentified artists and includes pieces from the late 19th century, from the serious to the naïve. You’ll see works both important and obscure; Greek and foreign; sourced from antique shops to flea markets – with the common narrative, that all have been collected in Athens.

The second act of the project presents, in parallel, two exhibitions curated by Thanasis Moutsopoulos, both focusing on the Greek counter example, the first one under the title “Anonymous Art” (curated by Ma-

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ria Nikolakaki) and the second one “Marginal Art : the case of Petros Tezapsides” (curated by Panagis Koutsokostas).

‘This section functions more as an art bridge,’ says Thanasis Moutsopoulos. ‘It throws light on works of institutionalized mentally-ill artists who are often completely ignored in the body of art history – we believe they provide a valuable counter-example.’

The two projects were first presented in Patras in December 2016, and focus not on the fashionable, the fresh, the politically correct but on side-issues of art that were bypassed without reason: issues that were controversial at their time and which deserve a far better understanding.

‘Everyone in the art scene wanted a piece of the Documenta pie,’ Moutsopoulos says. ‘Our best chance was to feature the most unlikely set of artists who’d never figure in any art event.’

Galleries participating in the first part of the project: a.antonopoulou. gr, Enia Gallery, Françoise Heitsch, Kaplanon 5 Contemporary Art Gallery, Medusa Art Gallery, Mulier Mulier Gallery, The Blender Gallery, Zina Athanassiadou Gallery.

See The Greek counter example, April 6-April 12, at the Diplarios School, Athens (Ground Floor), Theatrou School, Athens, tel: 210.324.0130.

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Documenta for Dummies For the first time since it launched in 1955, the prestigious art event known as Documenta has split itself in two and will travel outside of Germany. The 2017 edition, titled, “Learning from Athens”, will be held jointly in Athens from April 8 to July 16 and in Cassel, from June 10 to September 17. Documenta14 intends to question the relationship between art and society, and to also re-visit the prevailing European perspective by incorporating a “Southern” vantage point.

Documenta’s patronage of Athens greatly helps to cement the city’s growing reputation as a serious contemporary art player. Anita Robert has all the answers to your questions about this must-see exhibition.

WHERE DOES DOCUMENTA COME FROM? La Documenta was founded in 1955 in Cassel by a group of German artists on the initiative of the painter Arnold Bode (1900-1977). After the years of Nazi oppression on modern art, these artists wanted to present the art of the 20th century and reconcile the public with contemporary art. They also wanted to show that Germany had regained its freedom of artistic expression. Through the innovation of using large exhibition spaces and public places, Documenta met with great success right from the very beginning. It takes place every five years, lasts 100 days, and presents around 130 artists.

WHO IS ADAM SZYMCZYK? Adam Szymczyk, the polish art critic and curator appointed to direct the fourteenth Documenta, is no novice. Winner in 2011 of the Walter Hopps Award for Curatorial Achievement, Adam Szymczyk previously headed the Kunsthalle Basel. With a reputation for being avant-garde in his contemporary art approach, Szymckyk has become a much sought-after curator in global artistic circles.

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WHO WILL SEE DOCUMENTA? Based in Cassel in central Germany, Documenta has succeeded over the years in attracting an increasing number of people. The first exhibition attracted 130,000 visitors. The latest, in 2012, 900,000.

WHAT LIES BEHIND THE DOCUMENTA PHENOMENOM? The reason for its success? The organizers’ ability to identify the most avant-garde artists, to surprise and stay in step with the times. Because, more than an artistic encounter, the Documenta is a place of experimentation and debate on the state of our societies.

WHO’S BEHIND THIS EVENT? La Documenta is a public interest association, managed by the City of Cassel and the State of Hesse. Artistic Directors are different every time.

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Katerina Koskina of EMST: It was with great enthusiasm that we accepted the decision of Adam Szymczyk to realize documenta 14 in Athens and Cassel. Documenta 14 comes to Athens at the right time. Despite the crisis and its impact on everyday life, there is a form of reaction that is expressed through a renewed interest in creation and the arts, especially among young people.

Art & Culture

WHAT DO WE LEARN FROM ATHENS? Adam Szymczyk asked the artists to begin by visiting Athens and Cassel, and choose to create a work either in one or in both cities. The work of the Argentine artist Marta Minujin “The Parthenon of books” illustrates this approach. The temple on the Acropolis will be reconstructed from books that have been censored and re-edited throughout the world. It will be exhibited on the Friedrichplatz in Cassel, where 2,000 books were burnt by the Nazi regime.

WHAT TO EXPECT? More than 130 artists will be exhibited during the 100 days of the demonstration in the museums, buildings and public spaces of Athens.

Besides visiting exhibitions and installations, the public will be able to participate in projections, concerts, and thematic visits.

DURING DOCUMENTA Until 18 September 2017, Greek television ERD2 broadcasts a documentary or documentary selected by Documenta14 every Monday evening at midnight. These films can then be viewed on the Documenta website.

WHERE CAN I SEE DOCUMENTA? From next week, Documenta 14 will become a visible, audible, and palpable presence in Athens. During its one hundred days, the spaces and places of Documenta 14 will include museums, cinemas, theaters, libraries, archives, schools, television, radio, university auditoriums, public squares, streets, clubs, shops, parks and paths, and residential buildings—in short, all that comprises the great city in its density, richness, and strange beauty.

The four major institutions of Documenta 14 in Athens are: Athens Conservatoire (Odeion Athinon) Athens School of Fine Arts (ASFA) Benaki Museum EMST, National Museum Of Contemporary Art For the full list of participating venues and spaces visit www.documenta14.de Practical information Ticketing: tickets can be bought online at documenta.de/tickets, or at the entrance to each exhibition.

Entry price for one day: 22 euros (reduced price: 15 euros) Package 2 days: 38 euros (reduced price: 27 euros) From 17h: 10 euros (reduced price: 7 euros) Opening hours: daily from 11 am to 11 pm

Adam Szymczyk: At the beginning of my collaboration with Documenta we find a common concern: How are art and public institutions part of the common good? It has become crucial for Documenta to answer the question of what it means to be a public institution in the current context at all levels - artistic, political, and financial.

Our proposal to organize documenta 14 in Athens and Cassel questions the position of the institution by reversing the role of host to which it has accustomed, and placing it in reverse in the position of guest.

“

WHY THE TITLE, LEARNING FROM ATHENS? Adam Szymczyk wished this time to engage the Documenta in a reflection on the crisis of the Western model. To this end, he has shaken up the codes, unveiled the manifestation of his traditional exhibition site in Cassel to bring artists and public to one of the emblematic places of the “crisis”, Greece.

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In Memory We drive past them every day. Proskinitaria: those miniature churches on the side of the road that contain icons, candles and photos - and that fill us with such a sense of loss and sorrow.

American photographer Paul Cohn spent 18 months documenting the very Greek cultural phenomena of these roadside memorials on a quest to decipher the messages they still contain. Here, Paul explains his moving journey.

On the sides of the roads in Greece, one often sees one or more proskinitaria, miniature churches made from stone, marble, metal, or other materials and often containing icons, candles or photographs.

I was driving with my wife in Mani, on the Peloponnese, heading to the Vlychada cave, one December afternoon in 2014, when I truly saw my first proskinitari. Until that day, I had driven past many of them without giving them a second thought, but there was something about the starkness of this particular shrine, standing lonely against the backdrop of water and gray light, that filled me with a sense of loss and sorrow. I felt as though someone had left an important message for someone else, and it was still waiting to be delivered.

Proskinitaria originally were erected to provide holy protection for a site, but in modern times they typically mark the site of a road accident where someone either died or miraculously survived. I met one man who was lighting a candle at a proskinitaria who explained that he had lost control of his motorcycle at that spot four years earlier. He was hospitalized with serious injuries, but he survived, so he returned to that spot

of Someone each week to thank the Holy Virgin. But others have not been so lucky.

According to data from the World Health Organization, Greece reported 1,385 road fatalities in 2010, or 12.2 per 100,000 residents – the highest of the 28 countries in the European Union, and nearly twice the EU average. The proskinitaria bear witness to this data. Sometimes one finds a single proskinitari on a dark stretch of road, but frequently there is a cluster of them: eight proskinitaria along one hilly 3.5 kilometer length of road near Nemea; six at the side of a seemingly navigable bend of the Tripoli-Sparti highway; three at the edge of a sharp curve of the same road further on; and so on.

While proskinitaria mark the site of a death or a narrow escape, few of them contain any further detail – a photograph and a date, a name – that indicate who is memorialized at the site. More frequently, the proskinitaria say nothing to the passerby, and it is only the survivors of the people who remember the incident (“a woman with her child died … there was a collision”), and who come to light a candle at night or refresh the flowers that keep the memories of the victims alive.

In this respect, the proskinitari represents a contradiction of memorialization and anonymity. When I was growing up, I lived across the street from a cemetery, and there was a mausoleum engraved with the epitaph “To live in the hearts of those we leave behind is not to die.” What happens, though, when the people who erect and tend to the proskinitaria themselves pass away? That first proskinitari in Mani was the beginning of an 18-month quest to create a photographic study of proskinitaria, to somehow decipher and share the messages they still contained. I undertook this project not just because I am moved by the confounding namelessness of these memorials, but to prevent the final death that happens that happens when the memorial itself begins to rust away and no one comes any longer to light a candle for whomever that proskinitari represented. We cannot know who these proskinitaria commemorated, but - if even to stave off our own fear of being forgotten - we should remember that they reflect the lives of people who were on their way to someplace they were loved, and that they were worth remembering.

info In Memory of Someone Paul Cohn Published by Insider Publications Book Presentation: Wednesday, May 17 at The Athens Centre, Archimidous 48, Tel: 210.701.2268

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Michael Landy Canvasses Athens The famous British Artist Provocateur Michael Landy - “The Man Who Destroyed all his Belongings” – has set his sights on Athens – and he needs our help…

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Art & Culture

T

hey call him, “The Man Who Destroyed all his Belongings”.

British artist Michael Landy achieved global notoriety back in 2001 with his provocative masterpiece “Break Down”. In it, he publicly destroyed every last one of his belongings that he had amassed over his 37 years on the planet, in the middle of London’s Oxford Street, to the soundtrack of David Bowie and Joy Division. The list ran to 7,227 possessions and included precious family heirlooms, love letters, clothes - even his Saab Turbo. It was – and still is - a timely Opus Magnus on how so many of us use our possessions to construct our identity.

“

Landy later described his bold artistic statement – a Bonfire of the Vanities for the 21st century – as “the happiest two weeks of his life”.

The talking-point artist has now set his sights on Athens for his latest artistic exploration. From March 30 to June 11, Landy will stage his first show in Greece, called “Breaking News” at the Diplarios School – and has asked the citizens of Athens to help him create it.

NEON (Cultural Organization for Contemporary Art) has commissioned Landy to map people’s feelings, reactions and experiences of the current state of the city. Landy, in turn, has invited residents and visitors to the capital to send him an image that reflects their own vision of Athens.

You can help actively participate in the production of Landy’s historic installation by sending images that reflect your daily interactions with the city and help to capture contemporary Athens; and its social and political landscape. He is particularly looking for: images that imprint the social condition, news headlines, texts, symbols and logos, aphorisms and street slogans. Over the course of the next few months, images selected by Landy will take shape as a common canvas, in the form of blue and white drawings, pinned directly on the walls of Diplarios School, in the centre of Athens.

“I’m trying to open up a [kind of] bridge between me and the Greek public and am asking them about how they feel.

What is interesting for me is that I don’t know what I’m going to get, that is the interest, it can come from the left, the right, it can be social, it can be political.

It is an avenue of communication with everybody really and I don’t want to be presumptuous about what we are going to get. In some respects, we are like a copy center.”

Michael Landy

HOW YOU CAN GET INVOLVED The exhibition space at Diplarios School, Platea Theatrou 3, Athens, will open to the public on March 30 and the installation will be completed on June 11, 2017. Afterwards, participants may retrieve their work.

Submit your images in digital format via the NEON website or as hard copy in the exhibition space, on Fridays from 12pm to 7pm.

You can also follow the work in progress on Instagram @breakingnewsathens

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Rhodes Old Town holds its secrets close - ancient tales of conflict, love, faith and freedom.

Writer and journalist Mike Sweet walks its medieval monopati to reveal its precious stories… and a sublime refuge

W

alking under a crescent moon, through the ancient Gate of St Athanasios, one of the eight gates of Rhodes Old Town, to the hotel Anastasia Chiotaki-Mastromina opened less than two years ago, is a breathtaking experience. There’s no more dramatic introduction to the story of Rhodes.

Through these Gothic arches, Ottoman emperor Suleiman the Magnificent is said to have come on New Year’s Day, 1523, his invading army having breached the Knights of Rhodes’ defensive line at this entrance; the final victory in a bloody six-month siege. So ended the Knights’ (and Christian) 216-year control of the citadel and island; and so began nearly four centuries of Ottoman rule. In the shadows of this portal, under its limestone eaves, treading cobblestones felt underfoot for more than half a millennium, history here is tactile.

The story of the walled city of Rhodes, built by the Knights of Saint John in the 15th and early 16th century, encapsulates the turbulent history of the eastern Mediterranean. Overlaid on former bastions, from classical antiquity and the Byzantine period, added to by the Ottomans, re-imagined by Rhodes’ Italian rulers, this is a place where the energies and spirits of those who have gone before is ever present.

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Through the meandering lanes, Anastasia leads the way to the ‘story’ she has been creating since 2012, the year she and husband Nikos began to conceive a luxurious retreat; a place for renewal and healing, a place of art, of comfort and fine detail; a place to find something that was lost. Allegory Boutique Hotel is that story.

As we talk in the hotel’s elegant courtyard, the reason for the hotel’s enigmatic title is revealed. “The word allegory means a story that can be interpreted to reveal a hidden meaning,” says Anastasia, a former teacher born on the island of Karpathos, and whose Karpathian heritage (shared with her husband) underpins their entrepreneurial and creative spirit.

“I wanted to create something that allowed me to share stories, our story, guests’ stories. Allegory was always much more than a commercial investment; it was, and is, a journey for me and my husband, and our children. Our guests are part of that journey.”

As many Karpathians have done before, Anastasia and Nikos emigrated to North America in the early 2000s (Canada first, then the US).

As the hotel began to materialize as a concept more than a decade later, another story - which became intimately connected to the owners’ vision for Allegory - was revealed, when close friend and writer, Irini Vogiatzi-Haralambi, began writing a manuscript, entitled Allegoria.

Telling a tale of forbidden love set in the walled city in medieval times,

Travel

between a knight and a local woman, and the gift she gave him - a blue pearl, to mark their love. The story relates how the talisman was passed down for generations, until its last owner travelled from France to visit relatives in the house where Allegory is now located. He lost it there, promising one day to return to recover it. That is why every guest at Allegory receives a blue pearl on their departure – a blessed keepsake to take with them on life’s journey. Allegoria became a touchstone for Anastasia. With its author’s untimely death in 2015, Anastasia is arranging for it to published in Greek, English and French.

The morning after my arrival, as the sun warms the stones of this ancient citadel, (and after a sumptuous breakfast of home-made breads and jams, local cheeses, fruits and more), I walk with Anastasia through the walled city, along with Rhodes’ most respected historical guide - Dimitris Salahouris. We first visit the Archaeological Museum of Rhodes, housed in the former Hospital of the Knights. Dimitri’s insights provide a deep understanding of the treasures on show, which include tomb artefacts from the ancient city of Kamiros, one of the three Doric cities of Rhodes, built in the 12th century BC, the site of which lies on the island’s north west coast.

One exhibit, the tombstone of Krito and Timarista, is a crucial landmark in the history of Greek art; the sculptor dared for the first time, to present the anatomy of a woman in three dimensions, glimpsed through fabric worn by the two female forms. Knights’ funerary headstones, uncovered in an Ottoman cemetery are also on display. One, bearing a finely preserved 15th century English coat of arms was

sculpted a century before Shakespeare wrote Henry V. Nearby, the Street of the Knights leads to the Palace of the Grand Master. Constructed by the Knights on the foundations of a temple of sun god Helios and a Byzantine citadel, at this vast palace, a rich kaleidoscope of Dodecanese history and art is revealed. Exquisite mosaics, originally created in Kos as far back as 200 BC, adorn the floors. Murano chandeliers hanging above hint at the palace’s saviors, largely destroyed by fire in 1856. Restored by the Italians in the late 1930s, it served as a holiday residence for Benito Mussolini and the King of Italy. Italian, Ottoman, Medieval, Byzantine and before, layer upon historic layer, a journey around the Old Town is an unforgettable exercise in time travel.

My story of Allegory? The depth of Anastasia’s love of the hotel she created, and her belief in its poetic purpose, shines out. Beyond the soft spiritual energy of the property itself, infused by the owner’s presence, the hotel is a feat of exterior and interior design, sensitively incorporating styles referenced from medieval times. I stayed in Narcissus Suite, thirty-five square metres of elegant minimalist luxury on the upper floor, facing east. Subtle lighting, warm stonework, parquet timber floors, a gorgeously comfortable king-bed, and even its own hamam, make this space transcendent. Sleep and gentle dreams come easily here.

If you are planning to pass this way, Anastasia’s Allegory awaits, the perfect base from which to find and explore this jewel of the Dodecanese.

info Allegory Boutique Hotel is a member of the Yades Greek Historic Hotels Group and Historic Hotels of Europe. With its mission to promote the cultural and historical heritage of Greece, member hotels of the Yades Collection must operate in a building of outstanding historical significance, provide high-quality service, and share a vision - that of being a

guardian of the past, whilst being an exceptional host of the present.

Other hotels in the Collection are located in the Peloponnese, Western Greece, Thessaloniki, and the islands of Chios, Corfu, Crete and Santorini.

Antifanous 11 & Ippodamou, Medieval Town, Rhodes.

Tel: 224.103.7470

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Chef Stavriani Zervakakou’s award-winning cuisine

Feeding your holiday appetite Fine dining is probably the greatest excuse for planning a trip. But as a responsible foodie traveler, you want to make sure you’re visiting a destination with a local culture as rich as the siglino*(traditional Mani smoked pork) on the table. Kyrimai in the Mani, plays host to not just exquisite cuisine, but is also a great waterfront perch from which to explore Mani’s storied history Kyrimai Hotel, a foodie destination Voted the Best Historic Hotel by the Water for 2013, and named as one of Top 5 Greek Chic Getaways by Conde Nast Traveller, the Kyrimai Hotel in Mani represents an exquisite renovation of the old trade center of Mani built in 1870. The result is an awesome rendering of period architecture, complete with a complex of stairways, arches and inner courts. Rooms are warm and welcoming colored by the sounds of the sea. There are tower rooms, luxury suites, two-storey rooms with fireplace and charming attics.

Culinary cred: Acclaimed Chef Stavriani Zervakakou serves her delicate, yet robustly Maniatiki cuisine in Kyrimai’s renovated warehouse with exquisite Greek wines; a marvelous example of period architecture that was restored with the same dedication Zervakakou approaches her own craft as a culinary voyager, true to her roots. For

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owners Aris and Alexandros Kyrimis, “Even before the hotel was conceived, gastronomy was an integral part of the hotel. Our restaurant has been open since day one. Interacting at a table, with good food and wine is key to the stay experience.”

Other highlights: Exhibits in the reception area spark the imagination to travel through time with original rare memorabilia charting the development of trade in Greece during the 19th and 20th centuries. The chic setting captures the aura of Mani, topped up by the infinity swimming pool in the hotelʼs lovely terrace by the sea.

Amenities 22 inviting elegant rooms and suites.

Book now: Tel: 273.305.4288, yadeshotels.gr

Travel

Breakfast on the terrace perched on the water

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Grape Escapes

It is indeed surprising that wine tourism in Greece has taken this long to ferment into a fruitful alternative holiday experience. But all is not lost. It has been gaining a steady, loyal following among locals as well as tourists who want to imbibe Greece’s liquid gold. Athens Insider suggests an intoxication destination to quench your Greek wine curiosity, Fantoxometocho in Crete.

The Boutaris winery at Fantaxometocho, Crete

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Travel THE PIONEERS: In its 140-year history, the Boutaris have not just paved the way for other Greek wines to receive critical recognition by the extremely competitive international wine industry, they have also been pioneers in wine tourism with two of their wineries in Crete and in Santorini offering wine-drenched holidays throughout the year. The mission? That soon, names of indigenous Greek varieties like Xinomavro and Assyrtiko will roll as easily off the tongue as Chardonnay and Merlot.

THE VINEYARD: The vineyard at Fantaxometocho, loosely translated as haunted by ghosts (spirits of a different kind have now taken up residence here!) is home to some unique Cretan wines, including Skalani and Fantaxometocho. Savour the Kotsifali, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Malvasia Aromatica varieties while here and come back for a degustation of the newly harvested Vidiano, Assyrtiko and Mavrotragano varieties which will be ready for tasting in two years.

Scalani Hills Residence at Fantaxometocho, Crete

WHERE TO STAY: Scalani Hills Boutari Winery and Residence, managed by the Aria Group of Hotels, is an intoxicatingly charming retreat open from April to late daily from 9 am to 6 pm; November to March, with prior reservation.

Three luxurious residences on the estate provide the perfect sanctuary to acquaint oneself with Greek wines and Crete’s breathtakingly beautiful countryside. The rooms can be booked individually or as a group and sleep up to 8.

WHAT TO DO: Drink: How can you feel guilty about drinking when it is all in the name of acquiring some wisdom? The Winery Tour & Wine Tasting session adds to the merriment of wine-tasting and turns into a learning experience – a bit like converting fat into muscle – what’s not to like?

Eat: Tuck into local delicacies at Scalani Hills Restaurant, with a sumptuous view of the vineyard, followed by more wine, of course.

Do and See: Knossos is a mere 4 kms away!

BOOK NOW: Rates: from €110 per night (low season in residence for two persons) to €220 per night (high season, to house up to four people). Prices include homemade breakfast with hearty regional cuisine, Winery Tour and taxes.

Tel: 2810 731 899, 2810 731 617. Email : info@scalanihills.com or visit ariahotels.gr

Scalani Hills Restaurant

Scalani Hills Residence

In a Glass of its Own

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Interview

Greece is one of the world’s hottest emerging wine regions right now. Sofia Perpera, of New Wines of Greece, provides a masterclass in the Hellenic wine stars of tomorrow (and also recommends her best dinner party wine picks).

When did your love affair with the grape begin?

What is the most popular newcomer on the Greek viniculture stage?

I have always loved wine. It was a part of our family table.

Greece is often recognized now around the world as one of the hottest emerging wine regions. There are some major varieties that have been leading the way, like the Assyrtikos from Santorini and other whites like Moschofilero and Malagousia. The most popular reds are being produced from Xinomavro in the north and Agiorgitiko in the Peloponnese.

After school, I went to University to become a chemist but realized I did not want to work in a lab somewhere. Instead, I took a Master’s in wine, at the University of Bordeaux II, a degree in Oenology, and another in Wine Tasting. In Bordeaux, I became immersed in wine and my whole life has changed in many ways, since.

Could you give us an example?

“

Immediately, I became acutely aware of my sense of smell and afterwards, I could not eat or drink anything if I didn’t smell it first. A simple walk in the park or a hike in the forest became a sensory experience as tried to catalogue the fragrance of every flower, fruit and tree. Surprisingly, I see the same curiosity with my six-year-old daughter who already has a keen sense of smell.

What has been the single biggest change to have shaped the Greek wine landscape in recent years?

Entering the EU in 1981 changed everything for Greek wine. Very quickly financial help became available and the wineries began taking full advantage of the opportunity to invest in the latest winemaking technology, rebuilding wineries throughout Greece. The second largest influence was that a new generation of Greek winemakers was emerging, often from families involved in viticulture, who left Greece to study at best schools mainly in France but also in Italy, the US and around the world. They returned home bringing their winemaking skills to work with the rich treasure of native Greek varieties, often from around their own villages and began experimenting and changing Greek winemaking, while trying to adhere to the maxim that wine is a food and an integral part of the Greek table.

Wine is a food and an integral part of the Greek table.

Can you let us in on an unsung hero among emerging Greek wines?

I would say that Crete has probably made the most significant improvements over the last 5 years, especially, with many young and passionate winemakers upgrading the island’s wine production significantly. Cephalonia is also on the rise, although the production is still very boutique. Cephalonia has several unique indigenous grapes with Robola showing that it is one of the best white grapes of Greece.

The Zitsa PDO in Epirus, is home to another Greek jewel, their Debina variety that shows a lot of potential for further development for dry and sparkling wines. Another grape still under the radar with a lot of potential is the red Limniona, found in Thessaly. Finally, one of the most under-rated white grapes, in my opinion, is also one of its most widely planted varieties, Savatiano. Previously, it had a less than positive image due to its use in many old-style Retsina wines, but now that it’s being managed in the vineyard properly, it is showing wines of high quality with some aging potential.

Which countries are developing the biggest thirst for Greek wines?

The most promising market for Greek wine right now is the American market. According to recent Eurostat figures, wine exports to the US and Canada have increased in value by over 60%, between 2010-2015.

Millennials are now the largest wine consuming segment in the US. They are open to new varieties and spend more per bottle ($20+), according to a recent Wine Market Council report. And sommeliers throughout North America are one of the main reasons for the success that Greek wines are enjoying on mainstream wine lists. There’s no one better than the young, rising Sommeliers in the US and Canada to tell our story. These Sommeliers, who are always looking for something different and good, can offer their guests a wide variety of native Greek grapes. The difficult economic situation in Greece has actually been a stimulus for exports abroad, especially in the US and Canada, as the wineries have been compelled to concentrate their efforts in export markets.

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Which wines do you think deliver the biggest surprise to first-time visitors to Greece?

I believe that the white wines of Greece deliver the biggest surprise due to their mouth-watering acidity and expressive aromas: characteristics more usually associated with cool-climate wines from more northern wine regions. I always love seeing someone’s face when they first taste the bracing acidity and intense minerality of Assyrtiko wines from the volcanic soil of Santorini.

What is the Greek wine making industry’s greatest weapon in your opinion?

The large number of indigenous grapes, many which have been around since ancient times. These grapes have adapted very well to Greece's unique microclimates. The Native white varieties have wonderful acidities that go well with a variety of international cuisines and support the new trend away from the over-oaked whites that have dominated the international wine scene.

Tell us your 5 year predictions for the Greek wine industry …

Current trends show that what people are really looking for are wines with distinct character that show a sense of place. Wines that could only be from one place, like Burgundy, Barolo or Santorini because of the ecosystem from where they are produced. Greece, because of its relatively low production, is being established as a boutique, premium winemaking region so that as the wines become more established, prices will begin to rise in export markets, which we are already seeing. Eventually wines, such as those from Santorini and some other regions, will be too expensive to be purchased by the Greeks in Greece, but sold in export markets where they are willing to pay the price. This is a good problem to have, especially for the growers, who will be making more for their grapes and taking better care of their vineyards.

Sofia Perpera, is an Enologist and Director of the Greek Wine BureauNorth America, www.newwinesofgreece.com

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Sofie’s Choice

Sofia Perpera shares her personal wine picks with Athens Insider: Which wine would you take to… *a dinner party?

To strike a celebratory mood, I might take one of the excellent sparkling wines being produced in Greece (White sparklers from Moschofilero or Debina and rosé sparkling from Xinomavro). Or perhaps a lovely rosé made from an Agiorgitiko, from the Peloponnese, which also goes well with pasta, legumes and meat courses.

For the sweet tooth - Greece has been making some of the best sweet wines since ancient times – I’d recommend an aged Muscat or a dark, luscious Vinsanto.

*a summer barbecue?

A fresh Agiorgitiko from Nemea.

*a romantic evening?

An Assyrtiko from Santorini.

Your favourite Athens wine bar currently is ...?

Probably Heteroclito, but I also really love going to By the Glass, Vintage and Oenoscent.

Can you give us a best-value-for-money Greek wine recommendation?

Greek wines offer an excellent ratio of price to quality. For example, a Xinomavro of similar quality to a red Burgundy or Barolo is but a fraction of their price, due to the fact that they are still relatively unknown. Assyrtikos from Santorini are similar in style to a Premier Cru Chablis, but can be had for a 3rd of the price, although demand for Santorini wines is beginning to drive prices up.

And finally, a "good investment for collectors" recommendation?

Whites from Santorini that can age at a minimum from 5-10years and beyond. Reds such as reserve Agiorgitikos can go for a decade or more, while wines from Xinomavro can go for several years developing layers of complexity the older they get.

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Toasts of Wine Bars and the Athenian lifestyle make the perfect epicurean duet, so it’s little wonder that they’ve been taking over the capital of late. Amanda Dardanis uncorks her favourite Athens wine bars – in the city centre, around Pireaus and in the suburbs – where you can indulge in hearty explorations of the grape.

Heteroclito A small but perfectly formed Syntagma favourite that champions Greek wines while rocking a retro French bistro vibe. Its match-making credentials: locally-sourced cheeses and meze are expertly set up with their perfect wine “taste mate”.

Cellar Status: 200 mostly Greek wines with around 20 on offer by the glass.

Top Note: Taste your way around the vineyards of Greece.

Know your Assyrtiko from your Moscofilero and Roditis.

Ipitou 4, Syntagma, tel: 210.321.1279, heteroclito.gr

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IN THE CITY

Brettos

A Plaka institution as much for its rainbow “wall of booze”, as its history, Brettos morphed from a liquor store established in 1909 into a wine bar in 2007. It has kept its original flamboyant décor and traditional variety of spirits.

Wine lovers also know they can always lay their hands on a good glass of vino.

Cellar Status: Vrettos’ selection of 46 whites, 52 reds, 9 roses and sparkling wines are available at prices ranging from €3.50 to €12 a glass. Bottle prices are also very affordable.

Top Note: As the evening sets in, the wooden bar is packed with a heady mix of regulars enjoying a post-work drink, next to high-spirited tourists, drawn by the bright backdrop like moths to a flame.

Brettos Kidathineon 41 Plaka, tel. 210.323.2110, www.brettosplaka.com

Oinoscent Founded in 2008 as a cellar by two young wine-mad brothers, Oinoscent revamped itself as one of the city’s first wine bars, on a crusade to promote small producers of quality wines from Greek vineyards. Oinoscent now functions both as a cellar and a fashionable (and relatively smoke-free!) hang-out with frequent wine degustations.

Cellar Status: More than 700 labels from the world over. Wines usually include 5 whites, 5-6 reds and 2 roses, all priced at between €4 and €6.

Top Note: Strike up a conversation with Michael, one of Oinoscent’s owners, and he will spontaneously guide you through the cellar’s little known gems.

Voulis 44A Syntagma, tel : 210.322.9374, oinoscent.com

City Life

the Town there’s never been a better time to embark on a wine safari in the capital. Best of all, at many of the new breed of wine bar, if you sip something you fancy, you can usually pick up a bottle to take home at bottle shop not restaurant prices.

Wine bars are the perfect prop for our epicurean Athens’ lifestyle too. Think of them as an enhanced version of Greek café society: a place to chat, chill, reflect, connect – and worship the splendid grape, while you forget about the world outside.

Wine Bars. Slowly but surely they’ve been stealth-bombing this city of ours. Century-old classics have been joined by atmospheric new drinking dens, run by welltravelled oenophiles banging the drum about charismatic new Greek varieties and rising international stars.

And thanks to an increasing number of Athens bars adopting new technologies, (like the Coravin system, which allows sommeliers to serve you exceptional labels by the glass without having to pull the cork),

IN PIRAEUS Corks and Forks A growing army of devoted fans packs out this charming and homey Piraeus favourite, opposite Marina Zeas harbour, nightly. Share a satisfying meat and cheese platter and a few bottles of great plonk with friends as you perch on stools, or around old wine barrels.

Cellar Status: A smart wine list (90-odd options) specialising in lesser-known Greek wineries, with more than 20 available by the glass.

Top Note: “Honest food and fine wines” is the name of the game here. The menu is internationally-tilted, reasonably-priced and constantly evolving.

Akti Themistokleous & Pargas, Piraeus, Tel: 215.515.9792,. corksandforks.gr

Paleo

This is true wine-worshipper country.

Go for the ab fab fit-out as much as the clear dedication to all things oenocentric. A high-ceilinged warehouse has been ingeniously re-furbished with a striking wooden sunroof and chair branded with wine labels.

Cellar Status: 360 wines with a Mediterraneanlean. You’ll find about a dozen by the glass selections starting at €5.

Top Note: Paleo’s cut-above sommelier, Yiannis Kaimenakis, owes his wine kudos to extensive explorations of Europe’s finest vineyards.

Polydefkous 39, Pireaus, Tel: 210.412.5204

3 OF THE BEST IN THE BURBS

Vinarte

Check-in for: terrific deals on Wine Wednesdays and “free” Tuesdays where you can Bring Your Own Bottle, with a corkage fee of €8.

Maragkou 18, Glyfada, Tel : 210.894.1511, vinarte.gr

Sip Wine Bar & Tasting Check-in for: the fantastic roof garden.

Kyriazi 11, Kifisia, Tel: 213.032.9830,

Cava Vergara

Check-in for: the lively pavement setting in the heart of “Voula Village” - and their pet-friendly policy.

Posidonos 11, Voula Platea, Tel: 211.012.5700

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My Athens

Oenorama

A committed oenophile and wine scribe for decades, Constantinos Stergides gives a 5-minute masterclass on the Great Greek Grape...

What do you do? And how long have you been organizing Oenorama for?

I define myself as a wine journalist. I have been writing about wine non-stop for the past 30 years, it is what I do best and what I like to do the most. However, in order to make a living, I also organize events the most important of which is Oenorama, Greece’s major wine show and the biggest exhibition of Greek wines in the world.

I started Oenorama in 1994 and over the years it has steadily grown and changed, along with the so-called “Greek Wine Renaissance”.

In Praise of Wine 32 | insider athens

The most frequent Greek wine story you narrate at a bar?

Back in the early 90’s one of Greece’s biggest wine producers launched a premium wine with a very innovative label. Following a huge reception at the Athens Hilton it was the talk of the town for many months. About a year later I came across their enologist and asked him when were they planning to release their next vintage. His answer was “when we run out of labels of this one”.

They were already bottling the new vintage with labels of the previous one to avoid printing costs… Those were the days ―when no one paid any attention to “details” such as the wine’s vintage.

Most interesting Greek wine geek you’ve come across?

I am impressed by how many Greek wine geeks there are abroad nowadays, something unheard of in the past. One such person, who really knows his Greek wines, is Wojciech Bońkowski, a Polish journalist and editor-in-chief of the Winicjatywa wine magazine. He is a great guy and a very cultured person.

Paleo

Roditis Grape

What do you get asked most at dinner parties?

“Which is the best Greek wine?”, which I refuse to answer, because I just don’t believe that there is one “best” Greek wine. The whole concept of a “best wine” is contrary to my philosophy of wine.

Which area of Athens do you live in?

I live in Paleo Psychico which is also where I went to school. It is one of Greece’s rare residential neighborhoods where shops are not allowed.

Also, there are no traffic lights, another rarity.

What do you settle with at the end of a long day?

A long walk with my Golden Retriever and, hopefully, a glass of an IPA beer. My current favorites are Septem’s “Eighth Day” and Solo’s “Fouriaris”, a dynamite of a beer with 10° alcohol.

Can you describe a quintessentially Athenian sound, smell, taste and sight?

Sound: church bells, amazing if you are lucky enough to live near a church.

Smell: various homecooking aromas that float around town, because Greeks like to leave their windows open ―a stunning experience.

Taste: Cheese pie at 11 a.m., a ritual for millions of Greeks.

Sight: Bitter orange trees planted on almost every Athenian sidewalk.

You’re nostalgic about….

My birthplace, Perth Western Australia and especially the Cottesloe beach.

An Athenian is a very patient person.

Numismatic Museum

My picks Your all-time favourite restaurant in Athens that perfectly pairs its dishes with wines?

“Paleo” in …Pireaus, run by Yiannis Kaimenakis and Alexandra Karakatsani, is the best place in Athens to drink lovely wines at rock-bottom prices, and their pairings are always spot-on.

Best Greek wines you’d recommend to take back abroad?

Definitely a good Santorini and the best value-for-money Greek wine “Samos Doux”, which in my opinion is one of the best sweet muscat wines in the world.

If Athens were a wine it would be a retsina, what else? It is a shame that all the old taverns have gone, but there really was a “dive bar” retsina-tavern culture up until the mid-to-late 60’s that was typical of old Athens and defined the city in many ways.

What are the top 5 Greek grape varieties you’d recommend?

Assyrtico, Robola, Mavrodaphne, Malagousia and, of course, Xinomavro.

Most underestimated Greek wine?

Wines from the roditis grape.

Few know that Greek wines can age quite nicely.

Finally, tell us your best Athens Insider secret (a place, venue or location)? Τhe Numismatic Museum is one of the city’s best-kept secrets although a stone’s throw away from Constitution Square.

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Co

k o

e m M orie p u s g n i

Famous Philhellenes such as Diane Von Furstenberg, Rita Wilson and Victoria Hislop were just some of the well-known names to donate their fondest food memories of Greece for “A Taste of Greece�, a sumptuous compilation cooked up by anti-food waste charity Boroume.

For co-author Diana Farr Louis, who moved to Greece over 40 years ago, it was a recipe to make her fall in love with her adopted home all over again.

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Gastronomy

U

sually working on a cookbook is a lonely process. After you’ve had all the fun of tracking down the recipes – sitting in strangers’ kitchens for hours, eating, drinking and telling stories; travelling to unknown places; having unexpected adventures; gleaning new knowledge from a chance encounter – you have to go back to your desk and sift through all your notes alone. Writing down the recipes is the easiest part. Then you have to test them again and again as well as proofread them a dozen times to make sure a mischievous gremlin has not substituted a gram for a kilogram or 1 nutmeg for a pinch of the spice. The road to publication seems endless.

Producing A Taste of Greece was a different experience altogether. For one thing this was a group endeavor from the beginning and for another I did all the research without travelling anywhere. The recipes and the texts came to me and my co-editor, Tatiana Blatnik, and then took us into the minds and memories of our contributors.

But let me go back to the beginning. A Taste of Greece was never going to be like any other cookbook. It was the brainchild of the antifoodwaste charity, Boroume, a way of raising money for “saving lives by saving food”.

Since 2011, Boroume (We Can) has been rescuing perfectly good food from being trashed – by grocers and the big AB supermarket chain, restaurants, party givers, farmers’ markets, companies and individuals – and redirecting it to families and institutions in the vicinity who need it. Implementing this truly ingenious concept, the network had grown by 2016 to the point where it was saving and offering 15,000 food portions a day around the country, not just in Athens.

I had come in contact with the charity a year after its founding by Xenia Papastavrou and her friends, Alex Theodoridis and Alexia Moatsou, when I was writing positive stories about Greece for The Huffington Post to help counteract the overwhelmingly negative features about Greeks in the international press as we slid into our depression. Inspired by these dynamic, imaginative young people, I kept in touch, but was still taken by surprise when, in the spring of 2015, Xenia asked if I’d like to help with their cookbook project.

At first, I assumed it would consist of recipes for leftovers, ways of re-

ducing food waste. But not at all. The plan was much more ambitious.

We would round up well-known philhellenes and prominent personalities of Greek origin and invite them to contribute their favorite recipes along with fondest memories and an answer to the question, “What does Greece mean to you?”

In the beginning the Boroume team met often to discuss which celebrities we could reach out to, and here Tatiana was invaluable. With wide-ranging contacts in Europe, the UK and the US, she not only knew people like Valentino and Diane von Furstenberg personally, she was on such good terms with the German publisher teNeues that they agreed to print the book in three languages and give Boroume 10 percent of the profits. And as the beautiful, intelligent wife of former King Constantine’s son, Prince Nikolaos, she had access to VIPs the rest of us did not. She was the perfect person for the job.

As the contributions trickled in, we shared them with the team, enthusiasm growing with each email. No matter whether the answers to our questions were long or laconic, they each revealed something about the person’s attachment to Greece but also about the country itself.

We had wanted to call the book “For the Love of Greece,” and as we read and reread people’s responses, we jaded Athenians began to fall in love with Greece again ourselves. Of course, many of them focused on summer, the sights and sounds of islands from Crete to Limnos, on music and dancing, cooking smells and seaside tavernas, but most of them also celebrated the human element, and the special connection between food and memory: warm welcomes, family ties, the companionship that comes with breaking bread with someone and sharing a meal, the kefi, the friendships and memorable serendipitous meetings, big moments like the Olympics and spiritual ones like a child’s baptism or a wedding.

Of course we had to edit, check, and recheck every entry, but some of our contributors wrote so lyrically that I never got tired of reading them.

Noted chef Michel Roux took a paragraph to describe why “Greece is a little bit of heaven to me;” writer Sofka Zinovieff evoked the smells of Greek summer nights – warm pine, jasmine, fig leaves, and the sea – which we know so well; holistic health expert Vicky Vlachonis made

“

The book is a celebration of the age-old traditions of hospitality, kindness and generosity that have kept me happy to be an honorary Greek all these years.

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me smile every time I saw that among her favorite memories are “the naps after a long lunch”; while cookbook writer Laurie Constantino’s answer to what Greece means to her is engraved in my heart: “Greek friends and family have taught me to find joy in life’s ordinary events, to share the best of what I have with others, and to remember that humanity’s most important task is to give and receive love.”

Some reviewers have called A Taste of Greece a love letter to the country and its people and it turned out to be an important affirmation of what I as a foreigner felt when I chose to come to live here some 44 years ago. The book is a celebration of the age-old traditions of hospitality, kindness and generosity that have kept me happy to be an honorary Greek all these years.

Working on this book was a labor of love on our part too. That is what motivates the Boroume team and it kept me positive, distracting my attention away from shrinking pensions and outrageous taxes. How lucky I was to have Tatiana by my side or at the end of a phone, as well as Xenia, Alex and Nick Politakis, who represents Boroume in the US, plus chef Nikos Ntanos, who supplied recipes when contributors did not have their own. I think we were all proud to be involved in a project that was bigger than any single one of us. The fact that a percentage of the profit on every book sold will go to help Boroume combat food waste and feed more hungry people makes this much more than just another cookbook. And what’s more, it is beautiful, almost good enough to eat.

Eggplant Smothered in Garlic Serves: 4 to 8

This is my favorite dish from Prospero’s Kitchen. The recipe is from Zakynthos and really belongs to my co-author, June Marinos. It is so delicious that there never seems to be enough and it really should be cooked a day ahead, or at least several hours before you intend to serve it, because it is much much better when it has had time to rest and absorb all the flavors. Resist the temptation to serve it hot, right out of the oven. This goes well with fresh sourdough bread, feta, and plenty of wine.

Ingredients

4 lb/2 kg large round eggplants, unpeeled, and cut in 1-in/2 ½-cm slices Salt and freshly ground black pepper Olive oil for frying 4 lb/2 kg ripe tomatoes, peeled, halved, seeded, and grated, or 2 lb/1 kg canned tomatoes ½ tsp sugar 2–3 tbsp vinegar or sweet red wine 1 head garlic, peeled and chopped

Preparation

Sprinkle the eggplant slices with salt and leave them in a colander for at least 40 minutes to shed some of their liquid. Rinse and dry the slices well. Heat about an inch of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat and gently fry the eggplant slices on both sides in batches. Drain on paper towels.

Preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C. Place the tomatoes, sugar, and salt and pepper to taste in a large saucepan and simmer until a thickish sauce forms. Stir in the vinegar. Arrange the eggplant slices in layers in an ovenproof dish, sprinkling chopped garlic between each layer. Pour the tomato sauce over the eggplant and bake for 30 minutes. Leave in the oven to cool and serve several hours later or the next day.

Note: You can also brush the eggplant slices with oil and grill them for a lighter dish.

info

Photo © Antonios Mitsopoulos. All rights reserved.

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© A Taste of Greece - Recipes, Cuisine & Culture

by HRH Princess Tatiana & Diana Farr Louis, published by teNeues, € 24,50 teneues.com, boroume.gr,tatianablatnik.com

City Life

Get your Green Fix in Athens

The laiki or the open-air markets have long been a great source of fresh produce. Catering to the eco-conscious needs of Athenians who want to lead a healthier lifestyle, several organic options have sprouted in the city. From gluten-free foods to herbal cosmetics and nutritional supplements these speciality stores focus on encouraging local products. Here is a comprehensive green guide to Athens’ healthiest stores.

Bioart–Biomarket

Organic food, gluten-free products, fresh fruits and vegetables, delicatessen, herbal cosmetics, ecological detergents, baby foods, nutritional supplements.

Irakleiou Ave 408, Irakleio, Tel: 210.282.7622

Biologiko Chorio

A virtual organic village with branches spread across Voula, Glyfada, Ilioupoli, Nea Smyrni and Stamata, Biologiko Chorio stocks everything from herbal hair-dyes to dried nutts, gluten-free snacks, superfoods, environment-friendly detergents and chlorine-free cleaning products.

Lambraki 83, Glyfada. Tel: 210.963.3929, biologikoxorio.gr

Four Seasons Bio Shop

A store packed tightly with the best in organic milks, cheeses, teas, honey, and a wealth of other local products as well as imported health bars and herbal remedies from Germany, Holland, and the UK. It is one out of only a handful of places where certified organic produce can be purchased.

Nikis 30, Athens, Tel: 210.322.9078

Movement for Organic Health

Nuts, dried fruit, cereals, olive oil, wine, honey, bread, beans, herbs

and teas, jams, lentils and other legumes are on offer in addition to a selection of healthy take-away fast food. The store also sells toiletries made of natural herbs.

Panepistimiou 57, Athens, Tel: 210.321.0966

Nea Zoi

Organic foods, greek traditional products, natural and herbal cosmetics, nutritional supplements, products for athletes.

Protopappa 38, Ilioupoli, Tel: 210.991.2408

Peri Gis

A chic organic boutique with a smoothies bar that serves fresh detox soups, herbal teas, and fruit juices and delivers everything from ready meals to a wide array of rare tropical fruits, organic vegetables, pulses and healthy snacks to your doorstep.

Vas. Pavlou 105, Voula. Tel: 210.899.4457

Prasino Biomarket

Certified supermarket of organic products. Fruit, legumes, vegetables, chocolates, detergents, special nutrition (gluten free, diabetic products).

Pendelis Avenue 97, Halandri, 210 6858639 • Tatoiu 122, Nea Erythrea, 210 6206785 • Irakleiou Ave 408, Irakleio, Tel: 210.283.8320

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To be an Ambassador for Greek food abroad, it’s essential to do it right. The most successful overseas Greek culinary ventures have one thing in common: they’ve all managed to import the most defining elements of Greek Gastronomy. Authenticity. Hospitality. And a relaxed “live-to-eat-not-eat-to-live” ethos.

Amanda Dardanis goes beyond the picturemenu clichés to hunt down five outstanding Greek Gastronomy outposts that are leading the pack when it comes to spreading the pure joy of Eating Greek around the globe.

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LONDON

THE GLOBAL GREEK

Thymari

Don’t let the super-chic décor of this newly-rebooted Greek restaurant near Hadley Wood station in South East London fool you.

Beneath the elegant black and white furnishings and the classy white orchid garnishes, Thymari conjures up “kefi” - that quintessentially Greek word that loosely translates as “infectious high-spirits”- by the truckload.

The new Thymari (it means “thyme” in Greek) is run by the delightful Christina – an ex-City trader who wanted “out” of the rat race - and her equally convivial partner Paul. It’s only been operating since November but Thymari has already garnered all-star ratings not only for its flavoursome and hearty food; but for its brilliant (and family-friendly) atmosphere and consistently excellent service. If you don’t believe us, check out the love-bomb reviews on Trip Advisor.

Repeat customers find it hard to move beyond the meze – or pikilia – shared tasting platters, especially the grilled meat one, which is a real cut above your average Greek restaurant. It includes chicken souvlaki, pork souvlaki, lamb cutlets, home-made sheftalia (traditional Cypriot crepinette of minced pork, onion and herbs), sausages and Halloumi, plus a trio of 3 tasty homemade dips. There are also plenty of seafood and vegetarian options on the menu. Thymari is one of the best places in London right now to sample Greek-style octopus too. Not always the easiest dish to get right, Thymari’s version is the result of a “unique cooking process” and is delectably succulent and tender.

Signature Tastes: Kleftiko – slow-roasted lamb with cinnamon roasted potatoes; King Prawn Saganaki in spicy tomato and Ouzo sauce topped with herbs and feta; and a ravishing taramasalata.

Thymari Café Brasserie Grill, 18 Crescent West, Barnet, London, Tel: +44.020.827.502.68, www.thymari.co.uk

Gastronomy

The Apollo

Dining out is Big Big Business in Australia – and Sydney has truly earned its global stripes as a Foodie’s Nirvana. It’s a tough crowd though. To stay on top of your game in Down Under’s most famous city, with its ever-evolving landscape of hip, masterful, and inventive gourmet offerings, is no easy feat.

Since opening five years ago in fashionable Potts Point, (picture a petite slice of Paris with tree-lined streets and whimsical art deco dwellings), the Apollo has made its mark as the food critics’ firm favourite when it comes to going Greek.

Apollo is the venture of Jonathan Barthelmass, one of Sydney’s dazzling crop of exciting young chefs. The restaurant shines at dishing up rustic food that’s also sort of arty (exhibit A: their Kritharaki pasta braised oxtail and tomato skordalia bake), coupled with an excellent wine list full of clever local and international choices. (We were most pleased to see a couple of wonderful Greek sparkling wines from Florina and Peloponnese feature).

Apollo ticks all the other right boxes too. There’s the cool industrial decor: rough concrete and marble with a subtle shock of colour. A light-flooded interior, thanks to outsized cathedral windows. (Architect George Livissianis wanted a “dusty, engagingly simple setting” to mirror the Greek landscape.) There’s the beautiful staff as well who look like models but behave like helpful friends. Be warned though: Apollo doesn’t take small table bookings and is rammed full every night. Sydney’s hottest Hellenic outpost has also launched last year in Toyko.

Signature Tastes: Grilled octopus with chickpeas and coriander, Grilled calamari with sumac chilli, Oven-baked lamb shoulder with lemon and yoghurt, Avgolemoni pie.

Strofilia

BRUSSELS

SYDNEY

The Apollo

Strofilia Restaurant and Cellar

Close to Brussels’ trendy Dansaert pocket awaits a Greek gastronomic experience that could hold its own amongst Mykonos’ finest. In fact, Strofilia Restaurant and Cellar has a knack for photogenic plating that even Gordon Ramsay would find difficult to fault. But while the look of the food is thoroughly modern, the tastes are reassuringly traditional Greek: chicken with red wine and pasta; grilled pork and veal meatballs with cumin and yoghurt; a commendably creamy fava with onions, cherry tomatoes and capers.

It’s all quite pricey. And plates are not overly generous, especially if you‘re accustomed to regular Greek taverna portions.

But the quality is superb. There is much else to “wow” you here too. Strofilia’s décor is an appealing mash-up of old and new. Witness the re-invented Doric columns in the loft-style dining room that resemble Playmobil towers; the vintage olive press parts ; and nifty wall tiles fashioned from dismantled wine crates.

Downstairs, the cosy vaulted cellar and dining space is a great drawcard and offers a completely different mood. You can also hire private dining rooms for between 10 to 80 guests to take the party to the next level!

Signature Tastes: Octopus carpaccio with Santorini vinegar and artichoke mousse; black port loin with celeriac puree, Macedonian truffle and caramelized hazelnuts; and slow-cooked beef with Brussels sprouts and mushrooms.

Strofilia, Rue de Marche aux Porcs 11-13, B-1000, Brussels, Tel: +32-(0)2.512.32.93, www.strofilia.brussels

The Apollo, 44 Macleay Street, Potts Point, Sydney, Tel:+02.8354.0888, www.apollo.com.au

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Elia – Dubai Majestic

NEW DELHI

DUBAI

Gastronomy

Mykonos Café and Taverna

Elia Restaurant is a rare Greek gem amid the hectic Dubai whirl. It also pulls off the trick that any decent Greek gastronomic outpost should be capable of. With its potted olive trees, summery blue-citrus décor, and friendly, laid-back vibe, it yanks you straight to Greece.

Located past the teeming lobby of the Majestic Hotel Tower, the fetchingly-casual Elia is that perfect cliché of “a calm oasis”. Its Greek proprietor and Chef Yannis Baxevanis cooks like your mama but with a master’s degree. Baxevanis gives Hellenic classics intriguing modern spins: there’s the standout seafood yiouvetsi, and a fried halloumi with cinnamon and orange chutney.

There’s also a definite Cretan nod going on: wild green pie with mizithra cheese and Cretan herbs; chestnut and mushroom stifado.

Most nights, Baxevanis can be seen doing the rounds to gather customer intel. He’s also an active practitioner of the Greek “kerasma” tradition – where diners are gifted sweet treats at the end of their meal (in our case, loukamades with honey and Mastiha flavored ice cream). It never fails to charm. Our advice? Go native and order a medley of share plates to linger over out on the lovely terrace. And whatever you do, don’t skip on the heaven-sent fresh walnut bread served with kalamata olives.

Signature Tastes: Slow-cooked lamb shank; tender lamb morsels cooked in parchment paper with herbs and graviera cheese; a nearperfect Fasolakia; and an unforgettable galaktoboureko.

When it comes to foreign-flavours, India has hundreds of Italian, Arabic and Chinese restaurants to choose from. But traditionally, not a lot of Greek options. It’s a shame given India’s sizeable vegetarian population (and how prominently vege dishes feature in Greek cuisine). However, this state of affairs is slowly changing as Indians become more health-conscious, seeking out grilled dishes or those cooked in olive oil.

Mykonos Café and Taverna is one such recent arrival that’s awakening the tastebuds of New Dehli to good, honest, Mediterreanean fare. A cutesy little place that looks like a Cycladic village courtyard straight from central casting (their pretty courtyard is pure Mamma Mia!), Mykonos set up shop several years ago in the popular Safdarjung Enclave Market - close to the embassy. It’s been a great hit with the diplomatic set, fashionable young Indians. And anyone looking for a relaxed and affordable window into authentic Greek cuisine.

The menu isn’t flashy. It’s exactly the kind of meal you’d expect to get at that trusty island taverna you returned to three nights on the hop on your summer holiday. No, the true treasure here is host-with-the-most Anastasia. She is clearly in love with Greek food and will sit down at your table to explain each dish in detail – and advise you on what to order. The Greek “horio” background music makes a nice touch too.

Signature Tastes: Succulent lamb chops (paidakia); a melt-in-themouth moussaka; roasted zucchini; and a banging baklava.

Elia, Majestic Hotel Tower, Dubai Mankhool Road, Bur Dubai, United Arab Emirates, Tel: +97.104.359.8888, www.dubaimajestic.com

Mykonos Cafe and Taverna, 253, Shahpurjat 1F, New Dehli, Tel: +91.956.030.7081, or follow them on Facebook.

Elia

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Meet the Fish Tired of feeling like a fish out of water when it comes to buying fish in Greece – or ordering it in a restaurant? Katerina Tsitsipis and Aristotelis Makris of Livin’ and Lovin’ Greece, run regular organised tours of the lively wholesale fish market at Rentis, where you can chat with local fishmongers, learn about local varieties, and enjoy a perfectly-grilled fish afterwards. Here, Katerina Tsitsipis brings to life this popular Athens institution and also shares her dummy’s guide to the most popular local fish varieties to have you ordering like a native in no time.

TO THE MARKET, TO THE MARKET You can never get the real feel of a city unless you visit the places frequented by locals: the places where the heart of the city actually beats.

Such a place is the central market, or as many know it, the Varvakios.

Situated in the very centre of Athens, the market is a vivid jungle of sounds, colours, and smells. Ah yes, the smells.

Some people say they cannot stand the smells of fish or meat. But a fresh fish market has to smell like fish, otherwise you might as well just pull a packet of fish fingers out of the freezer! At a fish market, you can see the fish, touch them, smell them, and learn how to choose the freshest specimens. It's helpful to have your own fishmonger, the one you always go to and, eventually, trust. Incidentally, my fishmonger’s criteria for selecting the freshest fish from the pile is not exactly conventional. But I find it really does do the trick! She says: the fish should smell like fish but not have an overly-strong smell of fish; their eyes should be clear not blurry; and finally, it should look “vivid and shiny, and not like someone who's been drinking and smoking the night before!”

Another piece of advice: going to market isn’t just about shopping; it also means socialising! The easiest thing in Greece is striking up a conversation. If you are a foreigner, it’s even simpler: you will be fully

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City Life

"investigated" about your life here, why you came, what you are doing, etc. At the same time, you will get to know everyone's “news”. For me, and countless others, that's one of the major lures of the market.

Very often, when we take a group to the fish market, we buy some fish, then take it to a nearby taverna where we sit down and eat it together as the perfect conclusion to our excursion.

FISH TALES We absolutely love fish here in Greece. And not only in the summer, or at a fish taverna by the sea, we eat fish all year round. Most of us have childhood recollections of “yiayia” declaring: "Eating fish is good for your eyesight! It’s like fruit; you can have more than one!"

Knowing the names of the most popular local fish in English and how they are translated into Greek is a great start. But it’s not enough. You also need to know how Greeks eat and cook their purchases, and how to tell if the fish is fresh or not.

Here are the most common kinds you should know: Gavros ( γαύρος) or anchovy. We love it fried, in the oven with garlic, parsley (which we put everywhere), olive oil and lemon (which, again, we don’t hold back on). A cheap, excellent source of calcium and ω3, especially since you eat them with the bone. The same applies to sardines (sardelles), which are also at their best grilled.

Atherina and maridaki: tiny little fish, like whitebait, fabulous with ouzo.

Barbouni (μπαρμπούνι) or red mullet and its cheaper cousin, koutsomoura. Not so cheap, but amazing when fried by a connoisseur.

Bakaliaros ( μπακαλιάρος) οr cod fish. I make soup with them, but they triumph when made into croquettes. Fry them and serve them with garlic sauce.

The super stars consist of Fagri (φαγκρί) οr snapper, Rofos (ροφός) or dusky grouper, tsipoura (τσιπούρα) or sea bream. The latter has two kinds: the open-sea one, more costly, and the seafarm kind, cheaper, but still very tasty.

Grilled is one of the most popular ways of cooking them. Personally, I stuff their stomach with a slice of lemon and parsley, wrap them in a baking sheet and pop them in the oven. Of course with a little oil, salt, pepper, and more lemon.

Mmmmm, super!

The fish should smell like fish but not have an overlystrong smell of fish; their eyes should be clear not blurry; and finally, it should look “vivid and shiny, and not like someone who's been drinking and smoking the night before!

BUY AND GRILL AT VOLAKAS: Volakas is the kingpin taverna in the central market of Rentis. It's the place where all the lorry drivers and wholesalers eat every day, which means: if you are in charge of the cooking, you really don’t want these particular patrons to be unhappy. Now that part of the market is open to the public, Volakas and its amazing owner, Varvara, have become local celebrities. Here, you will find very honest, decent Greek cuisine, at very reasonable prices, without any "touches" or novelties. Just the way our mothers used to cook.

To find out more about Livin’ Lovin’s fish tours, visit www.livinlovin.gr

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Vassilenas Goes to Town Vassilenas has always been a standard-bearer for innovative cuisine steeped in Greece’s rich culinary traditions. What started off as a small grocery store with a few tables in 1920, Vassilenas, a 97-year old institution with a formidable reputation and an indelible part of Piraeus’ chequered history, now brings its time-tested cuisine to a new address in the heart of Athens’ new gastronomic district, the Hilton area in Ilissia. Sudha Nair-Iliades is seduced.

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Gastronomy

L

ong a meeting point of the port city’s frequent visitors including statesmen, men of letters, actresses, directors, poets, historians and composers, this third-generation family-run restaurant hopes to bowl over Athenians with its chic location and time-tested cuisine.

The Piraeus flagship restaurant is now called 1920 with Vassilenas in a smaller font while the new Athenian locale on Vrassidas 13 will continue with the Vassilenas name and tradition of serving what is arguably, the best value-for-money meal in Attica.

In a fiercely competitive gastronomic scene, (located as it is within a 500-metre radius of what Athens Insider considers as seven of the city’s finest restaurants), owner Thanassis Vassilenas ‘hopes to attract the same steady flow of devotees of fine cuisine at its new venue’. Continuing with the tradition at the 1920’s restaurant, where you can still dine to your heart’s content over a degustation menu of 16 dishes for just 25 euros, Vassilenas offers a seven-course meal for an extremely reasonable 45 euros. Harking back to its Piraeus pedigree, the accent here is on fish and seafood but with an eclectic choice to pamper all palates.

Ingesting traditional Greek standards with a bold, cosmopolitan edge, the dishes here are such a remarkable play on textures and seasonings, that even regulars like me, are taken aback by the surprising burst of finesse and flavour on the palate. Not on the degustation menu, but on the a la carte one, is the sea bass carpaccio marinated in lime and the shrimp tartar with pickled celery and fennel - a burst of freshness that sets the tone for the rest of the meal.

Vassilenas transforms banal taverna standards such as laxanodolmades (or stuffed cabbage leaves) by serving it with an unusual but brilliant combination of cauliflower puree and a hint of truffle oil. Converting Mediterranean staples such as salt-crusted cod into a culinary marvel requires not just imagination and skill but audacity to pull it off. Vassilenas does so without being too frilly and pretentious but with just the righ. For meat lovers, starve a week before to tuck into choice Aberdeen Angus beef prime ribs served with homemade ketchup and sinfully good fries and Lamb Shanks served with a refined, smoked eggplant puree.

A visit to Vassilenas is not just a gastronomic journey, it is partaking a slice of history when genteel conversations between Paddy LeighFermor and Winston Churchill mingled with the poetic outbursts of Seferis and Elytis, where Sophia Loren was seduced by Carlo Ponti on her way to film Boy on a Dolphin in Hydra and where Elia Kazan and Manos Chatzidakis shared their passion for cinema, music and politics. At its new home, Vassilenas is all set to recreate a new set of magic moments of its own.

info

Vassilenas, Vrassidas 13, Tel: 210.721.0501

insider athens | 45

Sweet Longings His lemon pie has made him a star in France (and was rated second at the 2007 Palmarès).

Arnaud Larher was crowned the official “patissier” of Grande Bretagne earlier this year, and visits the capital once a week to weave his memorable magic.

46 | insider athens

Gastronomy

What is it that make your pastries so famous around the world?

To explain, I will take the example of the lemon pie, which represents me best because it is the perfect balance between taste and textures.

People speak about the taste of a product. It is the key to success, of course. However, if there is no texture, be it moist or melty, the magic doesn’t operate. For me, the « patissier » has to work on what can be seen as much as what cannot been seen.

How did you catch the food bug?

My passion started as a young child, watching TV shows about cooking. I was fascinated to see how people mixed ingredients, put them in the oven, and then it would grow, cook. So my mother offered me a cook book, and I discovered that we had all these ingredients at home. I started making recipes, such as yogurt cake. With my child’s eyes, I would watch the cake swell in the oven, the odors go around the whole house, it was magic. The most difficult thing was to take the cake out of the oven and have to wait until it cooled down.

Would you describe yourself as greedy then?

Yes, I am. I have always loved pâtisseries.

I could have been in a kitchen as a Chef, but I prefer la pâtisserie.

What are your fetish ingredients?

For me, the «patissier» has to work on what can be seen as much as what can not been seen.

Here the weather is sunny, it is almost spring, so I would select fruits.

Either red or yellow. I also like Greek products, such as loukoums. At the moment we are working on a macaron with mastic and another one with lavender flavor. Mastic is an interesting taste. It reminds me a little of bitter almond.

Made in Greece vs Made in France Meringue or Baklava? Meringue because I ate so many

as a child and I just can’t live without it.

Pastis or ouzo?

It is a bit similar but I only know pastis ; so pastis.

Frappé or black?

Frappé

Pita or crêpes?

Crêpes, that’s obligatory

Loukoumades or crème brûlée?

Crème brulée

Feta or camembert?

Camembert, I can’t live without it

insider athens | 47

Mesoghaia takes off Greetings and goodbyes should be leisurely affairs and Mesoghaia at the Sofitel provides just the setting for those special moments. Lowslung and inviting, the completely renovated restaurant will surprise you with its modern design, rose gold details, oxford blue finishes and white marble surfaces give to it a distinct style.

There's casual seating for lone travellers at the front, around the show cooking station or cosy corners for the romantically inclined, speedy wifi and ergonomic seating for the businessman- on- the- move and reclining chairs for those who want to savour every moment.

Mesoghaia caters to discerning travellers with a 24 hour round-theclock service with “high aesthetics, excellent service, great food and drinks served in a cozy and elegant environment�.

Add more purpose to your airport trip with a stopover at Mesoghaia, before taking off, after landing, or simply for the sake of having a good time at this gleaming new restaurant.

info Mesoghaia, Hotel Sofitel Athens Airport. Tel : 210.354.4923

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insider athens | 49

The Kitchen Anarchist La Pantera Negra screams rebellion. And defies definition. Everything from the bold neon sign that shrieks «I do not give a fuck» to the explosion of flavours that Chef Dimitris Katrivesis’ itinerant cuisine provokes, La Pantera Negra is an original, animated addition to the Athenian foodscape.

With an almost guerilla-like approach to his cuisine, Dimitris Katrivesis describes his restaurant as ‘a bistro with a hard rock vibe that combines Japanese yin with Peruvian yang’. A culinary nomad, his inspiration comes from his years of living and travelling around Spain, Peru and Japan. “I love travelling and getting to know cultures and people through their relationship with food.” That sense of connecting people and their energies through soul food is the feeling one gets at La Pantera’s colourfully eclectic bistro. Like the décor, the menu too maps his personal wanderings and tempers the sublime with the fiery.

La Pantera Negra reflects the raw energy and anarchy of its neighbourhood and channels it into something unspeakable beautiful. Sounding like an anti-establishment veteran, Katrivesis declares, “My goal is to provoke fireworks,” and we can confirm, he does!

Insider recommends: Leche de la pantera negra, sea bass marinated in citrus and broth black Peruvian corn, smoked sweet potato, black quinoa, onion and fresh coriander bursting with fragrance, Bao bans with caviar and smoked butter and, Tiradito sea bass with crispy sweet potato cubes, thinly sliced grapes, fresh coriander and crunchy yuca crisps. And of course, pisco-based cocktails throughout the day.

Insider tip: Book ahead for a Sunday brunch.

info

La Pantera Negra Kalogrioni 6, Plaka. Tel: 2130364214, lapanteranegra.gr

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Gastronomy

Black Duck: A Homely encounter You’ll love the wonderfully arty and hospitable vibe at this popular multi-space hot spot near Syntagma square. Black Duck dynamically combines a gallery, cafÊ, bar and sophisticated restaurant, and it constantly updates itself with different furniture, colours and art events to keep your appetites aroused from October till May. In the summer months, the inviting premises of Black Duck Garden really come alive and makes the perfect urban rendezvous.

info Black Duck Multiplarte Christou Lada 9A, Athens, Tel: 210.323.4760 fb: The.Black.Duck.Multiplarte

Black Duck Garden Ioannou Paparrigopoulou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.325.2396 fb: blackduckgarden

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A Spanish Conquest at Chefi

W

ith their mantra: “People who like to eat are always the best people”, we and Chefi were always going to get along!

You’ll find this suburban treasure housed in a beautifully renovated property (with a winsome garden), a little away from the main Halandri drag. The lovely atmosphere aside, Chefi really is all about the food. Chef Alexandros Kossivakis creates utterly delicious menus with a fun twist of elements, inspired by international cuisines that taste as good as they sound. Look out shortly for Chefi’s themed Spanish evening and embark on a memorable taste trip to Spain on April 27. Chef Sergio Garrido Cantero, from Costa Del Sol, with Chef Alexandros Kossivakis will prepare a delectable five-course meal comprising Almond velouté with pâte serrano and melon, Potato tortilla with jamon iberico and manchego paprika, Seafood paella, Pork iberico with pepper sauce, purée and spinach and rounded off with Catalan cream, orange, cinnamon dessert.

info Chefi Perikleous 31, Tel: 210.681.5774, www.chefi.gr

Chef Alexandros Kossivakis with Chef Sergio Garrido Cantero

52 | insider athens

Insider guide restaurant index by type

refer to corresponding area for more information and contact details

AMERICAN

TGI FRIDAY’S The Burger Joint The Burger Joint

Kolonaki Glyfada Psychico

BAR - RESTAURANTS

21 Restaurant Kifissia 360 Cocktail Bar Monistiraki 42 bar Syntagma 48 Urban Garden Mavili Sq 9 Syntagma A for Athens Monistiraki Abariza Syntagma Abaroriza Pangrati Acropolis Museum Restaurant Acropolis Apsendi Halandri BABA AU RUM Syntagma BACARO Omonia BALTHAZAR Mavili Sq BARAONDA Mavili Sq Barley Cargo Syntagma Beer Time Psyrri Bios Gazi BLACK DUCK Syntagma Booze Cooperativa Psyrri Café Zoe Syngrou CASH Kifissia CINCO Kolonaki Couleur Locale Monistiraki CV Bar Keramikos Drunk Sinatra Syntagma En Plo Vouliagmeni Explorer’s Lounge Syntagma Gazarte Gazi HIDE & SEEK Halandri HOLY SPIRIT Glyfada Hoxton Bar Gazi ISLAND Vouliagmeni KITCHEN BAR Faliro MoMix Gazi NIXON Kerameikos NoËl Plaka OSTERMAN Syntagma PARKO ELEFTHERIAS Mavili Sq PIXI Gazi SEMIRAMIS RESTAURANT Kifissia SHOWROOM Kolonaki Socialista Gazi Sofa Bar Vouliagmeni Spollati Monastiraki Step by step Halandri Stinking Bishops Kolonaki The Clumsies Plaka THE GIN JOINT Syntagma Throubi Plaka Toy Café Plaka Underdog Thiseio

BEER RESTAURANTS

Silly Wizards

Ag. Paraskevi

CHINESE

China’s Fantasy Psychico Golden Phoenix Kifissia Keep Woking Glyfada NAMA Ag. Paraskevi Noodle Bar Syntagma NUI Kifissia Saipan Halandri Wagamama Maroussi

FISH

Ai Nikolas CAPTAIN JOHN’S

Syngrou Piraeus

DOURAMpEIS Piraeus Dourampeis Oyster Psychiko Fish Co. Platters Psychico ITHAKI Vouliagmeni KOLLIAS Piraeus JIMMY AND THE FISH Piraeus KASTELORIZO Kifissia MILOS Hilton MYTHOS OF THE SEA Vouliagmeni Nikolas tis schinousas Glyfada Nisson Gi Ag. Paraskevi Ocean Basket Glyfada PAPADAKIS Kolonaki Papaioannou Pireaus Piperia Psychico RAFALE Vouliagmeni Sardelaki Glyfada THALATTA Gazi ZEFYROS Piraeus Trata Omonia TRATA O STELIOS Pangrati VASSILENAS Hilton

FRENCH

ARTISANAL Kifissia avenue Syngrou Blue Pine Kifissia Gaspar Food and Mood Psychico L’ABREUVOIR Kolonaki MONO WINE RESTAURANT Plaka SPIROS & VASILIS Kolonaki SPONDI Pangrati Tartare Glyfada

GOURMET

ALERIA Kerameikos Aneton Maroussi AVENUE Syngrou Bo Botrini’s Halandri CTC Hilton Fuga Mavili Sq Funky Gourmet Kerameikos WHYTRA Syngrou KOOL LIFE Kifissia KUZINA Thissio MODERN Acropolis Museum of Greek Gastronomy Psyrri Orizontes Lycavyttou Kolonaki Pasaji Syntagma Polly Maggoo Metaxurgeio PremiEre Syngrou VAROULKO Piraeus

GREEK

2 MAZI Plaka 310 Street Psychico ANETON Maroussi Archeon Gefsis Metaxurgeio ATHIRI Kerameikos ATRIUM Acropolis Berdema Kifissia Bluefield Burger Psychico Dioskouroi Psychico DIPORTO Psyrri ELAIαS GI Kifissia Feedέλ Urban GASTRONOMY Syntagma IDEAL Omonia KAVOURAS Exarhia Krithamos Psychico MANI MANI Acropolis MELILOTOS Monastiraki

OLIVE GARDEN Monastiraki Pallas Athena Monastiraki PSOMI & ALATI Halandri RAKOKAZANO Halandri PROSOPA Gazi Rena tis Ftelias Psychico THIO TRAGI Petralona TO KOUTI Monastiraki YANTES Exarhia YDRIA Plaka

GRILL

1920 Halandri Telemachos Bbq Club Kifissia steak-i Ag.Paraskevi

INDIAN

Indian CHEF Indian HAVELI Indian Kitchen Indian Masala Indi-GO JAIPUR PALACE KOHENOOR

Syngrou Syngrou Syntagma Thissio Glyfada Kifissia Gazi

INTERNATIONAL

All Senses GASTRONOMY Glyfada BAKU Vouliagmeni BUBA Kifissia CHEFI’S Halandri Cosa Nostra Monastiraki Food Mafia Glyfada Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissia La Pierrade Kolonaki Los loros Syntagma Nikkei Kolonaki nolan Syntagma Pere Ubu Glyfada THE BIG KAHUNA Gazi

ITALIAN

30 SOMETHING Halandri AGLIO OLIO Acropolis AL BACIO Vouliagmeni Albion Psychico Al Dente Glyfada AL FRESCO Vouliagmeni Aperitivo Glyfada BALLARO Voula Capanna Kolonaki Codice Blu Kolonaki DA BRUNO Faliro DA VINCI Ag. Paraskevi Dal Professore Maroussi DULCIS IN FUNDO Voula Il Salotto Glyfada Il Salumaio D’ATENE Kifissia LA CASA DI GIORGINO Glyfada Malconi’s Kolonaki MARGHERITA Kifissia Matilde Pizza Bar Psychico Nanninela Ag. Paraskevi nomi Glyfada Ombra Psychico Pausa Maroussi Sale Bianco da Glyfada Salvotoro SALE E PEPE Kolonaki SCALA VINOTECA Kolonaki TONY BONANO Piraeus Tutti a tavola Kolonaki

Tuttitalia VEZENE Vespa Rosa VINCENZO

Kolonaki Hilton Pangrati Glyfada

JAPANESE

FURIN KAZAN Syntagma Hama Glyfada INBI Kolonaki KIKU Kolonaki Koi Syntagma, Voula MATSUHISA ATHENS Vouliagmeni OOZORA Kifissia RAKKAN Kifissia SUBA Kifissia SUSHIMOU Syntagma Tomoe Kifissia Yoko Sushi & Bento Kolonaki

KOREAN

Dosirak

Syntagma

KOSHER

Gostijo

Psyrri

LEBANESE

FALAFELLAS NARGILE SUZANNA

Psyrri Kifissia Faliro

MEDITERRANEAN

BYZANTINO Hilton CAFE AVISSINIA Monastiraki Common Secret Kifissia DAPHNE’S RESTAURANT Plaka FATSIO Pangrati GB CORNER Syntagma HYTRA Plaka IDEAL RESTAURANT Omonia KOUZINA CINE-PSIRRI Psyrri MALABAR Vouliagmeni MAVRO PROVATO Pangrati Mimaya Glyfada OCHRE & BROWN Psyrri PARLIAMENT Syntagma P.S. PECORA Psychico RATKA Kolonaki STOU MEIDANI Monastiraki THE DALLIANCE HOUSE Kifissia TO KOUTI Monastiraki TORTUGA Pangrati TRAPEZARIA Pangrati VOSPOROS Piraeus ZORBAS Piraeus

AMIGOS Glyfada DOS HERMANOS Kifissia EL TACO BUENO Halandri GREXICO MEXICAN STREET FOOD Monastiraki Taqueria Maya Syntagma

MEZEDES AND OUZO

MULTI ETHNIC

Altamira

Psychico Omonia Kolonaki Thissio Kolonaki Plaka

Kolonaki

Marousi Kifissia Plaka

PERSIAN

ANAHITA

Halandri

PUB RESTAURANTS

KEG ‘N’ CREW MOLLY MALONE’S THE JAMES JOYCE

Piraeus Glyfada Thissio

ROOFTOP DINING

ELECTRA Plaka IOANNIS Syntagma LE GRAND BALCON Kolonaki ORIZONTES LYKAVYTTOU Kolonaki ST’ASTRA Mavili Sq

SOUVLAKIA AND KEBAB

BAIRAKTARIS Monastiraki BUTCHER’S SHOP Gazi Gourounakia Kifissias Kifissia KALAMAKI KOLONAKI Kolonaki Kebabtzidikon Barbadimos Nea Smyrni SAVVAS Monastiraki Souvlaki Bar Thissio THANASSIS Monastiraki

SCANDINAVIAN

SAFKA

Kerameikos

SPANISH

JAMON PINTXOS BAR Glyfada LA GABINOTECA Kifissia SALERO Exarhia

TAVERNAS

FILIpPOU Kolonaki Gaidaros Ag. Paraskevi IPIROS TAVERN Psyrri Kolovos Ag. Paraskevi O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas Kifissia, Syntagma VLASSIS Hilton

THAI

ANDAMAN BLUE BAMBOO ROUAN THAI ROYAL THAI TAMARIND

Petralona Petralona Piraeus Kifissia Metaxourgeio

TURKISH

Mutfak

MEXICAN

Antaios ATHINAIKON CINCO KIRKI OUZADIKO SCHOLARHEIO

Altamira BUBA LA PANTERA NEGRA

VEGETARIAN

Avocado MAMMA TIERRA NICE N EASY TO VAZAKI yi

WINE BARS

By The Glass FABRICA DE VINO HETEROCLITO Kiki’s de Grece OINOSCENT Vinifera Vrettos Whispers of wine VINARTE

Glyfada Syntagma Omonia Kolonaki Halandri Glyfada Syntagma Exarhia Syntagma Syntagma Syntagma Kifissia Plaka Maroussi Glyfada

insider athens | 53

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Aglio Olio & Peperonicino Porinou 13, Tel: 210.921.1801 Authentic Italian pasta in a cozy setting, accompanied by luscious salads and homemade dolci

EAT Chez Violette

Kallidromiou 69, Tel: 210.384.5974

Fabrica de Vino

Em. Benaki 3, Tel: 210.321.4148 85 wine etiquettes and mini mezzes in an industrial environment

Atrium

Indian Chef

Athanasiou Diakou 22, Tel: 210.923.3585

Indian Haveli Syngrou Ave. 12, Tel: 210.924.4522

Mani Mani

Falirou 10, Tel: 210.921.8180 Peloponnesian specialities with Mediterranean touches

MODERN Rooftop Dining Athens Was Hotel Dionysiou Arepagaitou 5, Tel: 210.920.0240

Ag.Paraskevi

EAT Gaidaros

Ellinoservikis Filias 52, Tel: 210.600.4724 A hidden courtyard with home-cooked cuisine

Kolovos

Peloponessou 75, Tel: 210.651.0989 Several reasons to visit, but its succulent spare ribs top the list

Valtetsiou 51, Tel: 210.381.3358 Spanish and mediterranean cuisine in the heart of Exarhia

Yantes

Valtetsiou 44, Tel: 210.330.1369 Modern Greek cuisine prepared with organic ingredients.

DRINK

Ginger Ale

Themistokleous 74, Tel: 210.330.1246 Enjoy a cocktail or a coffee in a retro pop atmosphere

Vox

Arahovis 56 & Themistokleous Tel: 210.383.5811 One of the oldest summer cinemas in Athens is a picturesque place for a retro-tinged drink

Peloponessou 79, Tel: 210.654.3908 Great selection of beers and Mexican finger food

Da Vinci

Ag. Ioannou 23, Tel: 210.600.0102 Delightful dishes in fantastic ambience

Nama

Kyprou 50, Tel: 210.600.8936 Asian fusion cuisine with 20€ sushi buffet on Mon-Tue and 15€ Chinese buffet on Wed-Thu

Nanninela

Peloponnissou 13, Tel: 210.600.5622 Authentic Italian cuisine in traditional decor

Νisson Gi

Mesogeion Ave. 356, Tel: 210.651.1354 Island flavours with an urban twist

54 | insider athens

The Big Kahuna

Salaminos 42, Tel: 210.524.4100 Exotic street food

Butcher’s Shop

Persefonis 19, Tel: 210.341.3440 Traditional psistaria serving grilled meat dishes

Kohenoor

Triptolemou 41, Tel: 210.345.5762 Indian authentic specialties in a neat setting

Prosopa

Meg. Vasiliou 52 & Konstantinoupoleos 4 Tel: 210.341.3433, Delicious dishes in a warm atmosphere right beside the train tracks. A popular gay haunt.

Thalatta

EAT Bouillabaisse

DRINK

Zisimopoulou 28, Tel: 210.942 5203

Da Bruno

Bars, Clubs & Lounges

DruiD

Pireos 84, Tel: 210.342.5335 An avant-garde multi-level venue housing a bar, a basement club, art exhibitions, music venues, and a rooftop garden

Ag. Alexandrou 46, Tel: 210.981.8959 Rich list with Italian flavours

Silly Wizards

EAT

Vitonos 5, Tel: 210.346.4204 Fresh seafood creations

Faliro

Rovertou Galli 4, Tel: 210.923.6832 Refined Greek cuisine in a cosy setting

Salero

Modern

Afroditis 57, Tel: 210.984.8151

Il Tinello

Knossou 54, Tel: 210.982.8462 Real Italian home cookin

Kitchen Bar

Poseidonos 3, Tel: 210.981.2004 Comfort food overlooking the sea

Suzanna

Orpheus & Chariton 5, Tel: 210.942.8129 Authentic Middle Eastern cuisine

PIXI

Evmolpidon 11, Tel: 210.342.3751 Get in to the groove

Plastiko

Sofroniou 12A, Tel: 210.341.0308 Excellent cocktails, reasonable prices, summer mood

Socialista Triptolemou 33, Tel: 210.347.4733 Mainstream bar-club in industrial setting

Tapas Bar

Triptolemou 44, Tel: 210.347.1844 Cocktails and tapas at the bar, just like in Spain

EAT

Glyfada

Dionysiou Arepagaitou 15, Tel: 210.900.0915, Authentic Greek dishes right across from the Acropolis itself

Korai Sq 5 Tel: 213.037.0700 Strictly for carnivores!

Gazi

Acropolis Museum Restaurant

Steak-I

Exarhia

Acropolis

EAT

Bakeries & Patisseries Paul

Esperidon Square and Kyprou 70, Tel: 210.894.7169, A real French boulangerie that serves meals too.

Bios

Hoxton Bar

Voutadon 42, Tel: 210.341.3395, A cocktail bar based on Hoxton in East London

Gazarte

Boutadon 32-34, Tel: 210.346.0347 Lounge bar with excellent views of the Acropolis, ethnic music and live events

Gasoline

Restaurants All Senses Gastronomy

Lazaraki 12, Tel: 210.898.0080 Lives up to its name of tickling your senses.

Aperitivo

Kyprou 70, Tel: 210.894.0377 Authentic Italian cuisine in a cosy Miche setting

lin Jerome Chef Serre Grigoriou Lambraki 2,work s his m s Tel: 210.894.8882 agic Ark

Chef Yiannis Baxevanis brings Miamiinspired opulence to Glyfada

DRINK

Gargittion 23Α, Tel: 210.346.9396 All day bar with freestyle music and interesting guest-nights

Drop the Fork

Zinc

MoMix

Food Mafia

“Flisvos” Marina, Tel: 210.985.3183 Cocktails whith music

Keleou 1-5, Tel: 697.435.0179, Temple of mixology and high-quality bartending

Lazaraki 10 & Dousmani 14, Tel: 210.968.0040 Laodikis & Filikis Etairias10, Tel: 210.894.2177 International fare with attitude

Giouvetsakia

Ithomis 20 and Moreos, Tel: 210.964.8081 Organic mageirefta food

Hama

Grigoriou Lambraki 34, Tel: 210.960.0595, Sophisticated Japanese cuisine in a cosy setting

Holy Spirit

Laodikis 41, Tel: 210.898.2650 Cocktail Bar with great menu and beautiful atmosphere

Il Salotto

Markou Botsari 13, Tel: 210.894.8397 Minimal décor, elegant Italian fare

Inbi

the AlB acio

Nomi Italian Restaurantteam move s to Laodikis 47, Tel: 210.898.6015

Glyfad

Terrific Italian fare at great prices

Pere Ubu

DRINK

a Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Kyprou 74, Tel: 211.215.8737 Fab burgers, great cocktails, right next to the sprawling UBU organic store

Balux

Sardelaki

Bourbon

Sale Bianco da Salvotoro

Capri Bay

Foivis 15, Tel: 211.402.1195 Sardines and seafood in a casual setting.

Markou Botsari 10A, Tel: 210.898.6301, Authentic Italian food in an inviting atmosphere

Soleto

Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.3577 Waterfront lounging Daskaroli 67, Tel: 210.964.7600 American style bar with rock, blues, soul music and live events

Zurbaran

Jamon Pintxos Bar

Spiti

Dimitriou Gounari 70, Tel: 211.012.2801, Create-your-own Asian cuisine, fast and funky

La Casa Di Giorgino

Kyprou 30-32, Tel: 210.963.8770 Authentic Italian pizza made in a traditional wood-burning oven

Mimaya

Markou Botsari 8, Tel: 210.894.4850 Creative Mediterranean cuisine.

Molly Malone’s

Yannitsopoulou 8, Tel: 210.894.4247 Irish pub serving probably the best Irish Stew in Athens

Mutfak

Laodikis 38, Tel: 210.894.9060 Politiki Kouzina in a romantic setting

Nikolas tis schinousas

Diadohou Pavlou 48, Tel: 210.894.9550 Chic Greek fish tavern along Glyfada’s seafront.

Tartare

Al. Panagouli 52, Tel: 210.968.0320 Gourmet French cuisine that draws regulars.

The Burger Joint

Foivis 17, Tel: 210.894.0260 NY style, organic burgers in a casual and relaxed environment.

Vincenzo

Giannitsopoulou 1, Tel: 210.894.1310 Value for money Italian specialities with a Southern Italian touch

Yi

Grigoriou Lampraki 69, Tel: 210.964.8512

CreperieS To Paramythi

Kyprou 9, Tel: 210.894.1361 Creperie in a fairy-tale setting

Nixon Bar Restaurant

Tsakalof 6, Tel: 210.364.7712 Patr. Ioakeim 38,, Tel: 210.723.8334

Cafes

Nea Erythrea

Chocolat

Patr. Eleftheriou E & Patr. Ioakeim C 2, Tel: 210.807.0300

Zisimopoulou 9, Tel: 210.894.3442 Satisfies even the most discerning coffee connoisseur

EAT

Halandri

Keep Woking

Kolonaki

Vinarte

Marangou 18, Tel: 210.894.1511 A wine bar and Italian restaurant with regular art exhibitions and cool decor

Lazaraki 12, Tel: 210.898.0080 A perfect place for a family meal with great food and cocktails

Lazaraki 10 & Dousmani 14, Tel: 210.968.0040

Red door

Kyprou 82, Tel: 210.898.5554 Authentic Mexican food paired with any type of tequila you could want

Laodikis 33-35, Tel: 210.894.6089 Basque “pinchos” in a cozy setting

Drop the Fork

Mikro

Konstantinoupoleos 15, Tel: 210.968. 0643

Indi-Go

Glyfada

Skoufa 53, Tel: 210.346.2077

Su Casa

Laodikis 33, Tel: 210.968.0460

Japan and Indonesia

Grigoriou Lambraki 2, Tel: 210.894.9995 Excellent cocktails in a Moroccan style garden Laodikis 33-35, Tel: 210.894.1031 Minimal decor with well-known Greek DJs

Lazaraki 26, Tel: 210.894.4982 Sushi fusion

NEW ARRIVALS!

30 something

Iroon Sq 8, Tel: 210.689.9227 Pizza and cocktail bar in a San Franscisco atmosphere

Barbounaki

Chromata Vythou

Ekalis 40, Tel: 210.625.4152

Plaka

La Pantera Negra Kalogrioni 6, Tel: 213.036.4214

Anahita

Chr. Smirnis 3, Tel: 210.689.1222 The only place in Athens to try authentic Persian dishes

Apsendi

Kifissias 250-254 & Serron Tel: 210.671.7890, Refined cuisine and cocktails in stylish urban atmosphere

Bo Botrini’s

Vasileos Georgiou B 24b, Tel: 210.685.7323 Athens’ best table by far

Chapeau

Sokratous 4, Tel: 210.684.5300, Une cuisine primée

Psomi & Alati

Eleftherioton Sq 8, Tel: 210.684.8178 Gastronomic paradise serving Greek dishes with a modern twist

Rakokazano

Irakliou 1, Tel: 210.689.5501 Quality Greek mezzes in a cosy simple environment

Τo Vazaki - juice bar

Aristotelous 33, Tel: 210.680.0067

Wine Not

Kalogrezis 12, Tel: 210.689.0007 Industrial setting with eclectic wine list

Chefi’s

Perikleous 31, Tel: 210.681.5774 Refined cuisine with international flavours and regular wine tastings

El Taco Bueno

Ethnikis Antistaseos & Psaron 1 Tel: 210.684.0460, Mexican flavours in a traditional setting

Saipan Vitamin Boost at Yi

K. Varnali 9, Tel: 210.685.0644 Exquisite dishes from China,

DRINK Hide & Seek

Kifisias 254, Tel: 210.677.6747 Great drink menu and perfect garden for spring and summer

Spiti Cocktail Bar

Αndrea Papantreou 9, Tel: 210.683.3677 Great cocktails and sophisticated jazz tunes

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EAT

Hilton

Oozora

Agiou Trifonos 15, Tel: 210.801.8515 Japanese-Thai fusion Restaurant

Vassilenas

O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas

Vrassida 13, Tel: 210.721.0501 Exquisite Greek specialties

Drosini 12-14, Tel: 210.623.0080 A modern taverna serving traditional dishes at reasonable prices

Byzantino

Athens Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1400 Traditional Greek recipes with a Mediterranean twist

Paul

Cookoovaya

Kifisias 238-240, Tel: 210.808.7941 Japanese restaurant, bar, lounge with signature cocktails

Hatziyianni Mexi 2A, Tel: 210.723.5005 5 famous chefs combine their talents to create unique flavors.

CTC

Levidou 4, Tel: 210.808.4288 French boulangerie

Rakkan Galaxy Bar - Hilton

DRINK

Oumplianis 14 & Dioharous 27, Tel: 210.722.8812, Different 6 course menus every night, with exceptional quality!

CV Bar

Leilimlei

Agisilaou 61B, Tel: 210.346.2077 Top Athenian hedonist hangout for the 30-something crowd.

Milos

Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.724.4400, Simply prepared local flavours. Guaranteed value for money

Vezene

Vrasida 11, Tel: 210.723.2002 Modern bistrot serving seafood & cured beef

Vlassis

Meandrou 15, Tel: 210.646.3060 & 210.725.6335, Family-run taverna serving traditional Greek food

DRINK Galaxy Bar

Athens Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1402, Rooftop cocktails in a chic atmosphere

Kerameikos

EAT Aleria

Meg. Alexandrou 57, Tel: 210.522.2633 Adventurous Greek cuisine in a cosy setting

Athiri

Nixon

EAT

Kifissia

Baltinon 2 , Tel: 211.700.9383

Konstantinoupoleos 108 Tel: 210.345.1744

21 Restaurant

Kolokotroni 21, Tel: 210.623.352, Highly recommended.

Refined al-fresco dining with excellent service

Artisanal

Zirini 2, Tel: 693.614.4744 Unique lounge & garden with exceptional classy touch

Berdema

Skiathou 3 & Strofiliou, Tel: 210.620.1108 Family restaurant with Mediterranean fare

Blue Pine

P.Tsaldari 37, Tel: 210.807.7745 A hark back to retro Athens

Buba

Papadiamanti 4, Tel: 210.623.1151 Mixing pot of cuisines from around the world

Cash

Plataion 15, Tel: 210.346.2983 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine in beautiful surroundings

Diligianni 54, Tel: 212.100.4772 Cosmopolitan hang-out with upscale Mediterranean cuisine

Funky Gourmet

Kifissias 324, Tel: 210.623.3810 Coffee and light Mediterranean meals in a pleasant setting

Paramythias 13 & Salaminos, Tel: 210.524.2727, Haute cuisine in art deco interior

Polly Maggoo

Leonidou 80 & Salaminos, Tel: 210.524.1120, Gourmet cuisine in a post-modern setting.

Tamarind

Keramikou 51, Tel: 210.522.5945 Thai food in a beautiful setting

56 | insider athens

Common Secret

Dos Hermanos

Kyriazi 24, Tel: 210.808.7906 Excellent Mexican food & super margaritas

Elaias Gi

Dexamenis & Olimpionikon 4, Tel: 210.620.0005 The authenticity of Greek cuisine with stunning views of the city

Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.800.1402 Divine food from all over the world

Golden Phoenix

Harilaou Trikoupi & Gortinias Tel: 210.801.3588, Chinese classic popular for the brunch buffet

Gourounakia Kifissias

Kifissias 289, Tel: 210.801.1093 Delicious salads, appetizers, souvlakia & grilled platters

Il Salumaio di Atene

Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Specially-prepared Italian meals

Jaipur Palace

Kifissias 222, Tel: 210.808.8318 Indian cuisine and fine wines

Kastelorizo

Platanon 2, Tel: 210.807.5408 Part of a chain of upscale seafood restaurants that is sure to please

Kokkino Psaraki

Evagelistrias 36, Tel: 210.620.1572 Seafood taverna

Kool Life

Royal Thai

Zirini 12, Tel: 210.623.2322 Thai cuisine in an opulent setting

Semiramis Restaurant

Semiramis Hotel, Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Tel: 210.628.4500 Mediterranean cuisine in a hip atmosphere

Suba

Levidou 11, Tel: 210.808.5586 A blend of traditional and modern Japanese cuisine

Telemachos Barbeque Club

Fragkopoulou 22, Tel: 210.807.6680 Rare meats char-grilled to perfection

The Dalliance House

Kyriazis 19, Tel: 210.623.0775 The 19th century meets the 21st in beautiful setting, with successful recipes

The Wilbury  

Kifisias 238, Tel: 210.808.9454

Tomoe

Gortinias 11& Dangli, Kifissia, Tel: 210.801.3553 Great sushi at terrific prices

Life Gallery, Thiseos 103, Tel: 211.106.7400 Innovative cuisine in a cool restaurant cum deli

DRINK

La Gabinoteca

Patr. Maximou 1 Tel: 210.623.3550

Th. Diligianni 56, Tel: 210.808.3988 Tapas bar with decadent atmosphere

Margherita

Kifisias 363, Tel: 211.408.1132 Fantastic pizza made with local ingredients from all over Greece

Nargile

Harilaou Trikoupi 50, Tel: 210.808.3333 Lebanese cuisine in a cosmopolitan ambience

Nolita

Semiramis Hotel Harilaou. Trikoupi 48, Tel: 210.623.1181

Nui

Gortinias 11, Tel: 210.801.3553 Gourmet mutli-Asian restaurant

ESCOBA Dyo 48

Kifisias 248, Tel: 210.623.0870 New hang out oasis with retro ambience

Mento CafĂŠ

Ag. Theodorou 10, Tel: 210.808.0193 Traditional home turned stylish cafe

Vinifera

Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.807.7709 Selection of wines from all over the world

Food & Wine Cellier

Kifissias 369, Tel: 210.801.8756 By far, one of the best cellars stocking the finest labels in town

Bakeries & Patisseries Cake

Irodotou 15, Tel: 210.721.2253 For real American homemade cheesecake, brownies and more

Fresh

Kriezotou 12, Tel: 210.364.2948 Desserts and cakes

Restaurants Abovo

Tsakalof 18, Tel: 210.338.8838 Refined Mediterranean fare

Altamira

Tsakalof 36A, Tel: 210.361.4695 Flavours of multiethnic cuisine

Kalamaki Kolonaki

Ploutarhou 32, Tel: 210.721.8800 Souvlakia on the sidewalk have never been so trendy

Kiku

Sale e Pepe

Aristipou 34, Tel: 210.723.4102 Authentic Italian trattoria

Scala Vinoteca

Dimokritou 12, Tel: 210.364.7033 Fresh, beautifully presented sushi

Sina 50, Tel: 210.361.0041 Mediterranean restaurant ideal for wining & dining

L’Abreuvoir

Showroom

Xenokratous 51, Tel: 210.722.9106 Fine French cuisine

La Pierrade

Milioni 12, Tel: 210.364.6460 Missoni-designed interiors, serving unique Mediterranean flavours

Spefsippou 30, Tel: 210.723.7297 Elegant setting, refined cuisine, extremely polite service.

Simul

La Suite Lounge

Lachitos 5, Tel: 210.723.7575 Original French cuisine

St George Lycabettus Hotel, Kleomenous 2, Tel: 210.741.6000 Gourmet Greek cuisine

Malconi’s

Patriarchou Ioakeim 43 & Ploutarxou, Tel: 210.724.8920 Great food, bustling atmosphere.

Mayor

Filikis Eterias, Sq 19 Tel: 210.364.8156

Nice n Easy

Ipsilantou 63, Tel: 210.722.4737

Spiros & Vasilis

Skoufa 58 & Sina, Tel: 210.338.8211 Authentic sushi in the heart of the city

TGI Friday’s

Nikkei

Tutti a Tavola

Cinco

Orizontes Lycavyttou

Ploutarchou 38 & Charitos, Kolonaki Tel: 210.724.1777 People-watching and authentic Italian fare Skoufa 52, Tel: 210.364.3603 Great cocktails and specialty tapas

Codice Blu

Haritos & Loukianou, Tel: 210.723.0896 Italian cuisine, great for family brunches and people-watching.

Filippou

Xenokratous 19, Tel: 210.721.6390 Home-cooked Greek taverna dishes

Freud Oriental

Xenokratous 21 Tel: 210.729.9595 Creative fusion cuisine

IT restaurant

Skoufa 29, Tel: 210.363.5773, Affordable gourmet menu in a chic environment.

Lycabettus Hill, Tel: 210.722.7065 Gourmet dining with a spectacular view

Ouzadiko

Karneadou 25-26, Tel: 210.729.5484 Traditional Greek appetizers & ouzo

Papadakis

Fokilidou 15 & Voukourestiou 47A Tel: 210.360.8621 Paros’ legendary gourmet restaurant serving seafood in the heart of Athens

Ratka

Haritos 32, Tel: 210.729.0746 Popular haunt of the rich and almost famous, with cosmopolitan cuisine

Barefo ot, DIY Tsakalof 6, yakiniku exp erience Tel: 210.364.7712 Red door

Authentic Japanese experience

Omirou 60 & Skoufa 40, Tel: 210.339.2370 All day hang-out with music ranging from jazz to famous soundtracks

Skoufaki

Skoufa 47-49, Tel: 210.364.5888 All time classic café bar

Ten

Spefsippou 8, Tel: 210.722.2785 Authentic Italian trattoria at affordable prices.

Ploutarhou 10, Tel: 210.721.0161 One of the most popular hot spots in town

Cafés

Tuttitalia

Valaoritou 14, Tel: 210.338.9669 An authentic and hospitable Italian trattoria

Da Capo

Tsakalof 1, Tel: 210.360.2497 Long-established people-watching hangout

Yoko Sushi & Bento

39 Patriarchou Ioakeim Tel: 210.342.4654 Fresh sushi to-go!

Peros

Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.364.5068 Enjoy a cup of java if you can find a spot

Yoleni’s

Solonos 9, Tel: 212.222.3600

Tea

Zurbaran,

Patriarchou Ioakim 38, Tel: 210.723.8334

To Tsai

Soutsou 19, Tel: 210.338.8941 Tea & tea paraphernalia from around the world

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges

EAT

56

Agani

Ploutarchou 56, Tel: 210.723.1424 A quaint jazzy whiskey bar for the discerning

City

Charitos 43, Tel: 210.722.8910 Modern aesthetics, mutli-culti crowd and soulful music

London str 72

To Tsai

Rosebud

Suba Restaurant

Capanna

Leventi 3, Tel: 210.723.9366 Peruvian aromas and flavours in Kolonaki!

Ploutarhou 18, Tel: 210.725.8306 Early evening cocktails in a laid-back atmosphere

Loukianou 36, Tel: 213.026.3656 Fashionable gastro pub

Kolokotroni 35, Tel: 210.623.3945, American restaurant with real steak and barbecuesauce for casual dining!

Omirou 36, Tel: 210.360.8018 Welcoming nook with Greek cooking and more-ish cocktails

Mai Tai

Stinking Bishops

Omirou 60 & Skoufa, Tel.: 210.361.7201 Gourmet cafe-restaurant with organic products and jazz music

Cafe Boheme

IT Restaurant

Solonos 72, Tel: 693.951.1760, 690.607.3362 Union jacks and red telephone booths in an all day bar-restaurant

Maroussi

Kolonaki

EAT

Kifissias 22, Tel: 210.277.7065 Delectable, inspired Greek cuisine

Altamira

Perikleous 28, Tel: 210.612.8841 Multiethnic cuisine in funky environment

Aneton

Stratigou Lekka 19, Tel: 210.806.6700 Traditional cuisine in a comfy-chic setting reminiscent of the 50s & 60s

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Mauzac

Alamanas 1, Tel: 210.619.9902 Clean lines and a beautiful garden make this café, bar, restaurant a must

Pausa

Ag. Konstantinou 46 & Ifestou 3 Tel: 210.617.9290 Italian cuisine accompanied by a selection of Greek & Italian wines

Prytaneion

Kifissias Ave, Tel: 210.683.8083 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

Wagamama

Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.683.6844 Fresh, nutritious Asian fusion food in a sleek yet simple setting

Whispers of wine

Ag. Konstantinou 48, Tel: 210.617.9051, Gourmet food with rich wine list and vintage decor

Mavili Sq

EAT 48 Urban Garden

Armatolon kai Klefton 48, Tel: 210.80.18.515 Cool, minimalist environment and interesting, fusion cuisine.

Fuga

Vas.Sofias & Kokkali 1, Tel: 210.724.2979 Italian inspired menu by chef Andrea Berton at the Athens Concert Hall

Ginger

Dorileou 10-12, Tel: 210.645.1169 Original dishes and innovative combinations in an elegant atmosphere

St’Astra

Alexadras 10, Tel: 210.889.4500 For an unforgettable roof-top dining experience

To Parko Eleftherias

Next to Megaron Mousikis, Tel: 210.722.3784 Classic recipes and nice atmopshere in a lush green park

DRINK Balthazar

Tsoha 27, Tel: 210.644.1215 Lovely garden and chic interior attracts a cool crowd

Baraonda

Tsoha 43, Tel: 210.644.4308 Gourmet cuisine and funky beats

Briki

Dorileou 6, Tel: 210.654.2380 Trendy hole-in-the-wall hangout

EAT

Souvlaki Bar

Adrianou 7 & Thisiou 15, Tel: 210.515.0550

Stou Meïdani

Sokratous 3 & Evripidou Tel: 210.324.9073, A menu that is sure to please with speciality oven dishes

Thanassis

Mitropoleos 69, Tel: 210.324.4705 A souvlaki lover’s paradise

To Kouti

Adrianou 23, Tel: 210.321.3229 Mediterranean fare right next to the ancient agora

DRINK 360 Cocktail Bar

Ifestou 2, Tel: 210.321.0006

A for Athens

Bairaktaris

Miaouli 2-4, Tel: 210.324.4244 An urban terrace with the most stunning view of the Acropolis

Café Avissinia

Normanou 3, Tel: 206.700.4917 A young scene with great cocktails and affordable finger food overlooking the Acropolis

Monastiraki Square 2 Tel: 210.321.3036 Old-world taverna serving traditional Greek fare

Couleur Locale

Kynetou 7, Tel: 210.321.7047 Specializing in regional dishes & live music on weekends

Loukoumi Bar

Cosa Nostra

Six Dogs

Grexico Mexican Street

Spollati

Agias Theklas 5, Tel: 210.331.0900 Excellent Italian food with a 1920’s Chicago retro atmosphere.

Food

Fokionos 4, Tel: 210.331.5540 Tantalising Mexican flavours

Melilotos

Kalamiotou 19, Tel: 210.322.2458 Greek-Mediterranean cuisine with fresh local ingredients

Savvas

Ermou 91, Tel: 210.321.1167 Gyros & Middle Eastern dishes like pastourmali

Sigalas-Bairaktaris

Monastiraki Sq. 2, Tel: 210.321.3036 Century-old restaurant serving a variety of fresh dishes

Plateia Avissinias 3, Tel: 210.323.4814 An all day hang-out with good music, cool atmosphere and great views Avramiotou 6-8, Tel: 210.321.0510 A day&night cultural entertainment center and bar with a vivid 600m2 back-garden.

Aiolou 27A, Tel: 215.551.3004 A delicious combination of signature cocktails with homemade syrups and funky Mediterranean cuisine

Taf

Normanou 5, Tel: 210.323.8757 Outdoor bar in a neoclassical building with arty atmosphere and great exhibitions

CAFes Athinas 44, Tel: 210.321.6892 Best espresso in town.

Omonia

Aghias Irinis Square 2, Tel: 213.004.9645 Trendy and hip coffee shop and cocktail bar.

EAT Athinaikon

Themistokleous 2, Tel: 210.383.8485 A traditional Greek ouzeri

58 | insider athens

Panepistimiou 46, Tel: 210.330.3000 Greek classics in old-world decor

Mama Tierra

Akadimias 84, Tel: 211.411.4420

Olive Garden

Hotel Titania, Panepistimiou 52, Tel: 210.332.600. Good food and great view of the Acropolis.

Pallas Athena

Athinas 65 & Lykourgou Tel: 210.325.0900. Urban design, organic cuisine, Cretan deli corner

Trata

Themistokleous 8 and Nikitara 9, Tel: 210.383.8531, Excellent fish taverna in the centre of Athens

CAFes Cosa Nostra

Agias Theklas 5, Tel: 210.331.0900 Excellent Italian food with a 1920’s Chicago retro atmosphere.

EAT Fatsio

Efroniou 5, Tel: 210.721.7421 Greek food & political gossip

Mavro Provato

Ariannou 31, Tel: 210.722.3466 Best value-for-money meal in Athens

Spondi

Pyrronos 5, Tel: 210.756.4021, A mix of European & more exotic flavours. Voted one of the best in Athens

Tortuga

Archimidous 1, Tel: 213.030.7520, Healthy, affordable street-style food.

Trapezaria

Efronionos 13, Tel: 210.921.3500, Mediterranean cuisine in chic setting

Trata o Stelios

Mokka

Tailor Made

Fuga

Ideal Restaurant

Pangrati

Agiou Konstantinou 56, Tel: 210.610.9988, Italian menu with a menu that changes daily!

Monastiraki

Dal Professore

Duck Soup

Panepistimiou 39 Tel: 210.323.3916

Anagenniseos Sq. 7-9, Tel: 210.729.1533 The best grilled fish in town

Vespa Rosa

Naiadon 2, Tel: 210.723.4551 Great value-for-money Italian cuisine

DRINK LIVE BARS Abaroriza

Plastira Square 10, Tel: 210.701.9530 A pet friendly place with long balcony tables that fill up every night

Half Note Jazz Club

Trivonianou 17, Tel: 210.921.3310 A jazz club with great history, hosting important names from the international music scene.

Empedokleous 28-30, Tel: 211.404.6076 The new hot spot for retro gamers

Petralona

EAT Andaman

Alopis 65, Tel: 211.210.4939, Thai food in an exotic setting

Blue Bamboo

Kidantidon 24, Tel: 210.342.3124, Thai food with modern interior design

Thio Tragi

Kidantidon 36, Tel: 210.341.0296 Creative gourmet kitchen with high quality ingredients

DRINK Kurios Hou

Yperionos 1 & Dimofontos, Tel: 210.342.3972, Among Petralona’s trendy dining options with attitude.

Piraeus

EAT 1920

Etolikou 72 & Vitolion, Tel: 210.461.2457 Friendly food and atmosphere

Captain John’s

Ak. Koumoundourou 16A, Tel: 210.417.7589 Traditional seafood

Dourambeis

Ak. Protopsalti 29, Tel: 210.412.2092 Classic fish taverna

Jimmy and The Fish

Ak. Mikrolimanou, Tel: 210.412.4417 Excellent seafood; try the astakomakaronada

Keg ‘n’ Crew

Akti Miaouli 83, Tel: 210.429.0396 Comfort food and cold beers

Kollias

Plastira 3, Tel: 210.462.9620 Excellent seafood but difficult to find; reserve on weekends

Papaioannou

Akti Koumoundourou 42, Tel: 210.422.5059, For Greek fish specialities on the harbourfront.

Rouan Thai

Notara 131, Tel: 210.429.4494, Home-style Thai food

Tony Bonano

Papanastasiou 63, Tel: 210.411.1901 Italian cuisine with a view of the harbour

Nikodimou 18-20, Tel: 210.337.0000 Roof-top dining with Greek cuisine

Mono Wine Restaurant Venizelou Paleologou 4,

8 meze lunc h platter Tel: 210.322.6711 with52,wine Ak. Koumoundourou or tsipouro Unpretentious gourmet cuisine Mikrolimano, for just 30 La Pantera Negra € Kalogrini 6, Tel: 213.036.4214 Tel: 210.522.8400 Seafood prepared by Michelin star-winning chef Lefteris Lazarou

Vosporos

Akti Koumoundourou 20, Tel: 210.412.7324, Mediterranean dining with a sea view.

Zefyros

Ak. Koumoundourou 48, Tel: 210.417.5152 Fresh seafood on the quay

Zorbas

Ak. Koumoundourou 14, Tel: 210.411.1663 Unique flavours of the Mediterranean

DRINK Istioploikos

Ak. Microlimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084 One of the hip places to see and be seen with a rooftop bar overlooking the yachting marina

Katafigio

Ak. Koumoundourou 4, Tel: 210.413.1612 Club, cafe & beer house

Plaka

EAT 2 Mazi

Nikis 48, Tel: 210.322.2839 Creative gourmet dishes that change monthly

7 Food Sins

Filomousou Eterias Sq. 1 Tel: 210.701.1108

Brettos

Kydathaneon 41, Tel: 210.323.2110, Legendary wateringhole in the Plaka district

Daphne’s Restaurant Varoulko

Electra

Varoulko

Hams and Clams

Akti Themistokleous 36, Tel: 210.418.6683

La Pantera Negra

Lysikratous 4, Tel: 210.322.7971 Refined classic Greek dishes in a resplendent atmosphere

Scholarheio

Tripodon 14, Tel: 210.324.1605 A traditional tray taverna with old fashioned decor & prices

Ydria

Adrianou 68 & Eolou, Tel: 210.325.1619 Taditional Greek cuisine

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Noël

Kolokotroni 59B, Tel: 211.215.9534 An evening lounge scene with friendly service and Italian inspired food and drink

The Clumsies

Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2682 Features tasty cocktails and premium spirits that attract all ages

Throubi

Aghias Eirinis Square & Vasilikis 1, Tel: 210.323.0926, A cozy and colorful space with a good selection of coffee and cocktails

Toy Cafe

Karytsi 10, Tel: 210.331.1555 Jazz and funk venue that started the Karytsi street scene

EAT

Psychico

Superfly

310 Street

Kifissias Av. 310, Tel: 210.671.0688 Juicy burgers and rich salads with retro look

Albion

Omirou 6, Tel: 210.674.0710 Mediterranean flavours in a cosy atmosphere

Antaios

G. Drosini 7, Tel: 210.675.5493 Relaxed atmosphere with delicious mezedes

Barabicu

25 Martiou 28, Tel: 210.674.3874

Bluefield Burger

Aggelopoulou 3, Tel: 210.677.7739 For real American burgers

The Burger Joint

Solomou 4-6, Tel: 210.671.2222, New York style, organic burgers in an industrial and fresh restaurant environment.

China’s Fantasy

Kambouroglou 32, Tel: 210.674.9889 Chinese cuisine

Dioskouroi

Dim. Vasiliou 16, Tel: 210.671.3997 All day café-restaurant

Dourampeis Oyster

Andrianiou 37, Tel: 210.671.0100 Delectable seafood and frech oysters

Fish Co. Platters

Perikleous 11, Tel: 210.671.1976 A modern take on a traditional psarotaverna

Gaspar Food and Mood

Dim. Vasiliou Av. & Lykourgou, Tel: 210.677.5011, Creative bistro cuisine ideal fro business lunches

Hachiko Sushi

Leof. Kifisias 304,Tel: 211.411.2211

Krithamos

Mpoumpoulinas & N. Paritsi, Tel: 210.672.8790 Traditional flavours in an informal atmosphere

Ombra

Olimpionikon 220 & Lykourgou, Tel: 210.671.1320 Italian food with attitude

Piperia

Agg. Sikelianou 8 & Andrianiou, Tel: 210.672.9114 Terrific fusion food with piquant flavours

Polly Maggoo

Aggelou Sikelianou 8 Tel 210.524.1120

P.s.Pecora

Ag. Georgiou 1 & Olympionikon Tel: 210.672.8107 Mediterranean cuisine with Italian flair

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Rena tis Ftelias

25th Martiou 28, Tel: 210.674.3874 Highly recommended Greek taverna

Booze Cooperativa

Kolokotroni 57, Tel: 211.405.3733 A multi-purpose meeting venue for drinks, performances, and games

Cinque Wine & Deli

DRINK

Agatharhou 15,Tel: 215.501.7853

Cantina Social

CAFES

Leokoriou 8, Tel: 210.325.1668, Tiny standing bar, ideal for socializing

25th Martiou 22, Tel: 217.722.3040 Authentic coffee experience.

Psyrri

EAT Diporto

Sokratous 9, Tel: 210.321.1463 Old-world tavern offers bargain basics like salads, sardines & fava

Falafellas

Aiolou 51,Tel: 210.323.9809 Gourmet ethnic street food

Gostijo

Aisopou 10, Tel: 210.323.3825, Kosher menu and Mediterranean “repertoire”

Epiros Tavern

Athens Central Market Filopimenos 4, Tel: 210.324.0773, Great traditional Greek tavern, an excellent place for lunch

Kalamiotou 14, Tel: 210.322.7130 Uptempo bar inspired by “Big Lebowski”

Museum of Greek Gastronomy

Ag. Dimitriou Tel: 210.321.1311, Modern Hellenic cuisine and avant-garde gastronomic exhibitions.

Ochre & Brown

Bars, Clubs & Lounges Iroon Square 1, Tel: 210.322.8443 Relaxed atmosphere with wide selection of microbrews

Kiki’s de Grece

Ipitou 4, Tel: 210.321.1279 Cosy wine bar with French flair

Koi

15 Nikis, Tel: 210.321.1099 Affordable street-food style sushi

Makalo

Nikis 13, Syntagma Tel: 210.323.9829 Fresh bagels and French pastries

Avocado

Nikis 30, Tel: 210.323.7878 Vegetarian restaurant

Black Duck Multiplarte Christou Lada, 9 Tel: 210.323.4760

City Bistro

Stoa Spiliomilou, Tel: 210.321.1315, Refined cuisine in chic setting

Dosirak

Voulis 31-33, Tel: 210.323.3330 Japanese & Korean cuisine in the heart of Athens

Feedέλ Urban Gastronomy

Furin Kazan

DRINK

Royal Olympic Hotel, Ath. Diakou 28-34, Tel: 210.928.8400 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine with breathtaking views from the rooftop

Amandine Bagels & Gourmandises

Ktena 1, Athens, Tel: 210.321.0551 Funky interior, a delightful patch of green space

Leokoriou 7, Tel: 210.331.2950 Mediterranean/French cuisine

Ioannis

Los Loros

Souri 2, Tel: 210.323.2560 Charming wine bar with character

Sari 40, Tel: 210.321.5534 Mediterranean fare & eclectic music

Apollonos 6, Tel: 210.323.7720

EAT

By The Glass

Kouzina Cine-Psirri

Beer Time

Dude

Syntagma

Kudu

Indian Kitchen

Xenofontos 14 & Nikis, Tel: 210.324.3232 Nikis 23, Tel: 211.406.7032

New Taste

New Hotel, Filellinon 16, Tel: 210.327.3170, Mediterranean cuisine with a modern twist

Nolan

Voulis 31-33, Tel:210.324.3545

Noodle Bar

Apollonos 11, Tel: 210.331.8585 A congenial place to drop in for a quick noodle fix

O Tzitzikas ki o Mermigas

Mitropoleos 12-14, Tel: 210.324.7607 Savoury Greek cuisine, perfectly combining modern & traditional elements

Pasaji

Stoa Spyromiliou, Tel: 210 .322.0714, Bang in the heart of Athens’ luxe zone.

Paul

Panepistiomiou 10, Tel: 210.722.4824 A true French patisserie

Plaza Lounges

Apollonos 2, Tel: 210.322.9170 A Japanese favourite of expats & Athenians alike

NJV Athens Plaza Hotel Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400 All day lounge with salads & snacks

GB Corner

Sushimou

Hotel Grand Bretagne, Tel: 210.333.0750, Luxurious surroundings, Mediterranean cuisine

Skoufou 6, Tel: 211.407.8457 Owner Chef Antonis Drakoularakos, rated among the world’s 100 top chefs, lets his food do the talking

The concierge of the Grande Bretagne Hotel recommends EAT

New Zurbaran, Patriarchou Ioakim 38, Kolonaki Classic Varoulko Seaside Restaurant, Akti Koumoundourou 52 Mikrolimano, Piraeus Alternative Nice n Easy, Omirou 60, Kolonaki

60 | insider athens

DRINK

New Moriarty, Christou Lada 1, Syntagma Classic 42, Kolokotroni 3, Syntagma Alternative Momix, Keleou 1-5, Keramikos

DO

New Works by Apostolos Georgiou, The Athens Concert Hall Classic The Waves by Virginia Woolf, Syggrou 107, Onassis Cultural Centre Alternative White Power by Nikos Tranos, Kolonaki Square 20, Zoumboulakis Gallery

Black Duck

Taqueria Maya

Petraki 10, Tel: 211.216.7081, Feisty Mexican street food choices at pocket-friendly prices

The Parliament

NJV Athens Plaza Hotel Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400, International cuisine with Mediterranean accents

Tudor Hall Restaurant & Lounge

King George Hotel, Vas. Georgiou A3, Tel: 210.322.2210, Elegant setting, refined cuisine and an incredible Acropolis view

Wild in the City

Stoa Bolani, Voulis 7, Tel: 210.331.5776

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges 42 Bar

Kolokotroni 3, Tel: 694.824.2455, Delicious creative cocktails and mixology

Kolokotroni 9

Kolokotroni 9, Tel: 210.323.2795 A cozy jazz bar with specialty cocktails

Ampariza

Lekka 14, Tel: 210.325.7644 A wall of booze for serious drinkers

Alexander’s

Hotel Grande Bretagne, Syntagma Sq, Tel: 210.333.0000, For cherished cigar and single malt evenings

DRINK

Baba Au Rum

Klitiou 6, Tel: 211.710.9140 Amazing cocktails and rum collection with a cozy environment

Bars, Clubs & Lounges Cava Faydon

Barreldier

Agiou Ioannou 28, Tel: 215.510.9975 Mid-range or special edition wine varieties with a giddy range of imported goodies

Barley Cargo

Cava Vegera

Voulis 7, Tel: 210.325.4711 An all-day café-cum-watering hole open into the wee hours

NJV Athens Plaza, Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.335.2400, Magnificent cocktails and live jazz in an intimate atmosphere

Heteroclito

Fokionos 2, Tel: 210.323.9406 A true wine destination with focus on Greek vineyards

Kalua

Amerikis 6, Tel: 210.360.8304 Dance the night away in a chic environment

Low Profile

Voulis 7, Tel: 213.035.2144 Impressive selection of single malts

Madras House of Tea

Voulis 7, Tel: 210.324.2777

Mama Roux

Aiolou 48, Tel: 213.004.8382 A comfortable atmosphere with a variety of international cuisine and an elaborate Sunday brunch

Moriarty,

Christou Lada 1, Tel: 213.040.6763

Oinoscent

Voulis 45-47, Tel: 210.322.9374, Trendy winebar

The Clumsies

Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2682 Find out why it is rated amongst the best bars in Europe.

The Gin Joint

Christou Lada 1, Tel: 210.321.8646 Popular drinks, classic cocktails and the fanciest G&T in Athens!

The Trap

Othonos 10, Tel: 210.321.5561 Alluring gold trimmings, cosy mood and smooth tunes and dangerously delicious cocktails on tap

CAFES Kaya

Voulis 7, Tel: 213.028.4305 For a caffeine fix like no other.

The James Joyce

Ai Nikolas

DRINK

Syngrou Ave. 156, Tel: 210.923.2918 Original seafood dishes, fresh ingredients and simple elegant interior

Avenue

Metropolitan Hotel, Syngrou Ave 385, Tel: 210.947.100, French bistrot inspired by Michel Roux

Café Zoe

Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel: 210.920.6655 Casual dining and terrific buffets for lunch and on Sundays

Hytra

Onassis Cultural Center Syngrou Ave 107-109, Tel: 217.707.1118, 210.331.6767 Creative gourmet Greek cuisine with stunning views

Kollias

Syngrou Ave. 303, Tel: 210.940.8620 Excellent seafood in a pleasant Mediterranean atmosphere

Première

Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel: 210.920.6981 Gourmet cuisine with splendid views

EAT Indian Masala

Ermou 129, Tel: 210.321.9412 Amazing Indian food at affordable price in a pleasant environment

Kirki

Apostoplou Pavlou 31, Tel: 210.346.6960 Ideal for a lunch break

Kuzina

Adrianou 9, Tel: 210.324.0133 Inspired traditional recipes in a cozy arty environment

Astiggos 12, Tel: 210.323.5055 Genuine Irish pub with typical pub fare

The Sowl

Iraklidon 10, Tel: 210.345.0003 Art, taste, fashion and music collide at this welcoming new “ethnic urban” space

Underdog

Iraklidon 8, Tel: 213.036.5393 Specialty coffees, impressive selection of foreign and Greek craft beers, and exceptional cocktail menu

EAT Coconuts

Vasileos Pavlou 67, Tel: 210.895.5177, The place to stock up on your quinoa chips and acai berries

Drakoulis Meat Open Project

Vas. Pavlou 103, Tel: 210.932.0211 A nightclub, gourmet emporium, and Athens’ most glamorous meat boutique all in one

Dulcis in Fundo

Prinkipos Petrou 33, Tel: 210.894.2136 Top-quality authentic Italian

Koi

98 Vas. Pavlou, Tel: 213.032.0890 Affordable street-food style sushi

Naiades

Vas. Pavlou 74, Tel: 210.965.7706 Popular family grill joint

Ballaro Italian Restaurant & Deli

Plastira 3, Tel: 210.899.4965 An unpretentious hang-out with reasonably-priced drinks, themed sports nights, and knock-out burgers

EAT

Vouliagmeni

Explorer’s Lounge

EAT

Voula

Thiseos 16, Tel: 210.331.3733 A friendly place to drink to vintage music from the ‘50s and ‘60s

Nelly’s Gastro Pub

Avenue

Syngrou

Drunk Sinatra

Poseidonos 11, Tel: 210.964.6635 A new wine bar changing the game for the stagnant costal enclave

Thissio

Kolokotroni 6, Tel: 210.323.0445 Enjoy a wide selection of international and Greek beers accompanied by live music

Ithaki

Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.896.3747 Beautiful sea view, fresh seafood

Lutetia Bistro

brunch

Somewhere Hotel, Dios 2 just Tel: 210.967.0000 Affordable gourmet cuisine

Malabar

The Margi, Litous 11, Tel: 210.892.9160 Multinational tastes in a chic Mediterranean ambience

Matsuhisa Athens

Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.896.0510, Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa serves up sushi favourites with a Latin-American flair

Moorings

Marina Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.967.0659

Mythos of the Sea

Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Tel: 210.891.1100 Gourmet Mediterranean cuisine that blends local produce with fresh seafood

Rafale

Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.967.1184 Traditionally prepared seafood dishes presented exquisitely

Sardelaki

Leof. Poseidunos 18, Tel: 210.967.0913 Affordable seafood on the waterfront

Waffle House

Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.1227 Sure to satisfy your sweet tooth

DRINK

Posidonos 12, Tel: 210.899.4464 Charming deli-trattoria with flavours from Palermo

En Plo

Troufa Chocolate Bar

27th klm Athinon-Souniou Tel: 210.965.3563-4 Award-winning cuisine & an unmatched location

Vasileos Pavlou 80, Tel: 211.012.0004 Heaven on earth for chocoholics

Sunday

Posidonos 4, Tel: 210.967.1770 Cocktails overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay

Island

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Bookstores

Compendium

Alikarnassou 8, Athens Tel: 210.383.2139, 210.322.1248

Ιanos

Stadiou 24, Athens Tel: 210.321.7917, 231.022.1113

Lea Books

Sina 60, Kolonaki Tel: 211.012.0547

Lexikopoleio

Stasinou 13, Tel: 210.723.1201

Ouranio Toxo

Perikleous 41,Ag.Paraskevi Tel: 211.184.6771

Polyglot

Akadimias 84, Tel: 210.330.0455

Public

Karageorgi Servias 1, Syntagma Tel: 210.818.1333, S. Karagiorga 4 & Lazaraki, Glyfada Tel: 210.898.4300, The Mall and Golden Hall, Maroussi Tel: 210.630.0410, Skoufa 3, Kolonaki.

Tel: 210.338.7150

WHSmith Athens International Airport Eleftherios Venizelos.

Tel: 210.353.1080

Deli

Arapian

Evripidou 41, Monastiraki Tel: 210.321.7238 Old-style butcher shop offering cured meats

Bahar

Evripidou 31,Monastiraki Tel: 210.321.7225 Well-known herb haven

Cava Anthidis

Patriarchou Ioakeim 45, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.725.1050 Comprehensive wine and liquor wholesalers

Kostarelos

Cellier

Kriezotou 1d, Syntagma Tel: 210.361.0040, Kifissias Ave. 369, Tel: 210.801.8756, Syngrou Ave. 320, Tel: 210.453.3551 Stockists of premium wines and spirits

Kostarelos

Patr. Ioakeim 30-32, Tel: 210.725.9000 Great selection of cheese and Greek goodies

Kylix

Karneadou 20, Tel: 210.724.5143 Quality picks from the world’s best vineyards

Marks & Spencer Food

Ermou 33-35, Athens, Tel: 210.324.0675 Vouliagmenis Av. 85, Glyfada, Tel: 211.012.4968 Lazaraki 13, Glyfada, Tel: 210.894.3147 Pentelis Av. 23, Vrilissia, Tel: 211.012.5381

Miran

Evripidou 45, Tel: 210.321.7187 Sausages, pastrami & cured meats

Provence

Posidonos 80, Tel: 210.898.1435 Gourmet French delicatessen

Salamat

Korinthias 24, Athens Tel: 210.779.6766

Sorpresa Italiana

Kiriazi 6-8, Tel: 210.801.7886, Authentic fresh Italian pasta, sauces, truffles & more

Stefanidis Finest Foods

Dimitrios Sq 13, Tel: 210.808.2191 Excellent European delicatessen

Varsos

Kassaveti 5, Kifissia Tel: 210.801.2472 Milk products & patisserie

Jewellery

Solonos 77, Kolonaki Tel: 210.362.9703

Wine Garage

Xenokratous 25, Tel: 210.721.3175, Browser-friendly cava with helpful service

Athens Metro Mall

Dept Stores

Le livre ouvert

Vouliagmenis Avenue 276, Tel: 210.976.9444 Shops, cinemas and food

Attica

Apriati

Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed jewellery for the young

Elena Votsi

Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation pieces in gold and stone

Fanourakis

Patriarchou Ioakim 23, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.1762, Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings

Folli Follie

Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Kolonaki, Tel: 210.323.0739 Greece's high-street export stocks watches and everyday bijoux

Omega

Voukourestiou 2, Kolonaki Tel: 210.322.7682 Elegant boutique showcasing the brand's timeless timepieces

Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury goods

Van Cleef & Arpels

Golden Hall

Bulgari

Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 131 high-end (and highstreet) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion

McArthurGlen

Building Block E71, Yalou, 19004, Spata, Tel: 210.663.0830, 210.663.0840 Designer Outlet Shopping Centre

Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki Tel: 210.331.0319 The jeweller of the international jetset Voukourestiou 8, Kolonaki Tel: 210.324.7118, Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories

Cartier

Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison

Petit Bateau

Golden Hall, Kifissias Ave 37A, Tel: 210.681.3050 A. Papandreou 16A & Metaxa, Glyfada, Tel: 210.894.8813

The Mall Athens

Attica

62 | insider athens

Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food

Chopard

GB Spa

Ilias Lalaounis

Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller

Kessaris

Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces

Marathianakis

Karagiorgi Servias 4 (Stoa Kalliga), Tel: 210.362.7118 & 210.322.2424 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs

Pentheroudakis

Voukourestiou 19, Tel: 210.361.3187 Timeless pieces inspired by classical Greek design

Zolotas

Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the ancient Greece as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso

Anamnesia

Athens International Airport Departure Terminal, Tel: 210 3533104 Matogianni, Myconos, Tel: 2289 079171 anamnesia.gr

Acropolis Museum Shop

15 Dionysiou Areopagitou, Tel: 210.900.0911

Benaki Museum Shop

Koumbari & Vas. Sofias Tel: 210.367.1045, www.benakishop.gr

Forget me not

Adriannou 100, Plaka Tel: 210.325.3740 www.forgetmenotathens.gr

Greece is for Lovers

Valtetsiou 50 - 52, Kolonaki Tel: 210.924.5064 www.greeceisforlovers.com Tongue-in-cheek souvenirs for the discerning traveller

It's all, oh so souvenir to me!

Concierge Athens, Ay.Theklas 8, Psirri, Tel: 213.036.9266 More than 50 Greek designers' unique, new imaginative and unexpected ideas that re-define the souvenir www.ohsosouvenir.com

Kori

Mitropoleos 13, Monastiraki Tel: 210.323.3534 Traditional & contemporary jewellery

Museum of Cycladic Art Shop Neophytou Douka 4, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.8321-3

Ananea Spa

Life Gallery Hotel 103 Thisseos Ave., Ekali, Tel: 211.106.7400

Olive Tree Spa

Hatzigianni Mexi 4, Hilton Tel: 210 724.4425

Orloff Spa Astir Beach Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210.896.0028

Vintage

Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou Tel: 210.325.0555 Legendary time pieces and jewellery.

Souvenirs

Chopard

Spas

Zolotas

Hiltonia Spa

Vas.Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1000

I-Spa

InterContinental Athenaeum Athens Syngrou Avenue 89-93, Tel: 210.920.6000

Athinas 30, Monastiraki 1st-2nd Floor Tel: 210 3217876

Bohbo

Ippokratous 39, Exarhia Tel: 210.338.9202

Gouadeloupi

Protogenous 12, Psyrri, Tel: 697.852.3933

Like Yesterday’s

Protogenous 16, Monastiraki Tel: 216.700.4810 Vintage clothes mainly from the United States

GB Spa at Hotel Grande Bretagne Vasileos Georgiou 1, Syntagma Sq, Tel: 210.333.0799

Amerikaniki Agora

Mofu

Sarri 28, Psyrri, Tel: 210.331.1922 Vintage and contemporary style home décor and furniture

Paliosintheies

Protogenous 8, Psyrri, Tel: 210.656.0574 Vintage home décor and furniture

Preloved

Ipitou 5, Syntagma Second-hand clothing collected from the cities of Paris and Berlin

Retrosexual Vintage Shop

Aghias Eirinis 3, Monastiraki Tel: 210.545.1553 Great collection of merchandise ranging from the ‘20s to the ‘90s.

Sofita

Iraklidon 35, Thissio Tel: 210.346.9904

Yesterday's Bread

Anamnesia

Retrosexual

Kallidromiou 87-89, Tel: 210.881.1233 Imported second-hand clothes; individuality guaranteed

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Badminton Theatre Goudi, Athens, Tel: 211.101.0020 Gialino Music Theatre Sygrou 143, N. Smyrni, Athens Tel: 210.9316.101-4 Pallas Theatre Voukourestiou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.321.3100

Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 210.321.0219 Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries.

Byzantine Churches many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox church) on Filellinon Street.

Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm.

Dress soberly when visiting.

Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works.

Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi.

Tel: 210.346.1589.

Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that markedthe boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of

Hellenic Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros. Tel: 212.254.0000. hellenic-cosmos.gr Frissiras Vlassis Museum of Contemporary European Art Monis Asteriou 3-7, Plaka, Tel: 210.323.4678 frissirasmuseum.com Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4, Athens .

Tel: 210.722.8321, cycladic.gr Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio, Tel: 210.346.1981 Apostolou Pavlou 37, Thissio Tel: 211.012.6486, herakleidon-art.gr Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni, Acropolis. Tel: 210.922.7260, lalaounis.com Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka.

Tel: 210.322.5582. jewishmuseum.gr Kerameikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.346.3552.

National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 National Gallery and Alexandros Soutsos Museum Vas. Konstantinou 50, Athens.

Tel: 210.723.5857, 210.723.5937 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens.

Tel: 210.363.5953, nma.gr The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.924.1043, theacropolismuseum.gr The National Art Gallery and Alexander Soutzos Museum Michalakopoulou 1 - Vas. Constantinou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.723.5857

Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos, Athens. Tel: 210.321.0185.

Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens.

Tel: 210.923.1502, spyrosvassiliou.org Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka, Tel: 210.368.9502, history-museum.uoa.gr Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue, Athens Tel: 210.367.1000, benaki.gr Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos.

Tel: 210.325.1311, benaki.gr Benaki Museum, Pireos Pireos 138 & Andronikou, Gazi Tel: 210.345.3111, benaki.gr Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.1027

Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli, Ag. Ioannis Rentis, Tel: 210.425.6999, allou.gr Children’s Museum Kydathinaeon 14, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2995.

Goulandris Museum of Natural History Levidou 13, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.801.5870, gnhm.gr Greek Folk Art Museum Daily Karaghiozis puppet shows!

Kydathinaeon 17, Plaka, Tel: 210.322.9031 Museum of Children’s Art Kodrou 9, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2621 childrensartmuseum.gr Summit The Wall Sport Climbing Center Ag. Athanasiou 12, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.0093, summit.gr Westin Kids Club Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.890.2000 www.westinathens.com/en/westin_kids_club/

Just for kids

Sites Theatres

Galleries

A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psyrri Tel: 210.321.4994 Artzone 42 42 Vas. Konstantinou, Athens, Tel: 210 725 9549 Astrolavos Dexameni Xanthippou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4342 Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200 Athens Art Gallery Glykonos 4, Dexameni Sq., Athens, Tel: 210 721 3938 Bernier/Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thissio, Tel: 210.341.3935 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxurgeio, Tel: 210.331.7527 Ekfrasi Gallery Valaoritou 9a, Tel: 210.360.7598 Eleni Marneri Galerie Lebessi 5-7& Porinou 16, Acropolis Tel: 210.8619.488 EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Kallirrois Av. & Amvr. Frantzi street Athens, Tel: 210.924.2111- 3 Gagosian Gallery Merlin 3, Athens, Tel: 210.364.0215 K-Art Gallery Sina 54, Athens, Tel: 211.401.3877 Kalfayan Gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.7679 Kourd Gallery Kassiani 2-4, Athens, Tel: 210.642.6573 Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 Thanassis Frisssiras Gallery Kriezotou 7, Athens, Tel: 210.364.0288 The Eynard Mansion Aghiou Konstantinou 20 & Menandrou, Athens, Tel: 210.322.1335 Titanium Yiayiannos Vas. Konstantinou 44, Pangrati, Tel: 210.729.7644 Xippas Gallery Sofokleous 53D, Athens, Tel: 210.331.9333 Zoumboulakis Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278/ Kriezotou 6, Syntagma, Tel: 210.363.4454

Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues.

Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for €1.50 and open daily from 8:30am.

Panathenian Stadium Kalimarmaro”was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden. Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the “birthplace of democracy”. Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory. Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries. Irodou Attikou Street. Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am-3pm.

Admission to the Agora and museum €3.50. Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma(Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changing-of-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour. Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian’s Arch. Mon-Sun 8am-7:30pm. €2.00. Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues, Tel: 210.922.6330. Theatre of Dionysus built in the 5th century BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed. Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight directions of the wind, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus.

Mon-Sun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora. Tel: 210.324.5220.

Museums

ASSOCIATION OF GUIDES Tel: 210.322.9705

Athinais Cultural Centre formerly a silk factory, this space has been converted into a large cultural centre. astorias 34-36, Votanikos. Tel: 210.348.0000.

B&M Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens Tel: 210.361.1206 Ileana Tounta Contemporary Art Centre 48 Armatolon-Klephton st. Athens, Tel: 210.643.9466 Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) live concerts, operas and other performances. Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali. Tel: 210.728.2333 Michael Cacoyannis Foundation Piraeus 206, Tavros, Tel: 210.341.8550 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou 107-109, Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000 Stavros Niarchos Foundation Vasilissis Sofias Ave. 86A The Art Foundation Normanou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.323.8757

Cultural venues

ORGANISED TOURS

ARION RESORT & SPA

ATHENS HILTON

COCO-MAT HOTEL NAFSIKA

DIVANI PALACE ACROPOLIS

The legendary beauty resort is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. Breathtaking views of the Saronic Gulf, elegant and sophisticated décor in all 123 rooms and suites, private swimming pools and beaches, spa and gourmet restaurants.

Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.890.2000

506 renovated rooms, two pools, convention facilities, business center, four restaurants, two bars and spa. The rooftop Galaxy Bar and Restaurant has gorgeous city views.

Vas. Sofias 46, Ilisia Tel: 210.728.1000

Located in Kifissia, the hotel offers an unforgettable experience thanks to COCOMAT‘s unique sleep systems in its 22 guest rooms, power breakfast, bike rids and herb garden.

Pellis 6, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.8027

Located at the base of the Acropolis and close to Plaka. Pool with bar, roof garden restaurant with Acropolis view.

Parthenonos 19-25 Makrigianni, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.928.0100

ATHENAEUM INTERCONTINENTAL ATHENS

COCO-MAT HOTEL

Crowne plaza

GRANDE BRETAGNE

543 rooms with renovated Deluxe rooms and suites. Dedicated business centre facilities and 3.500 m2 of extensive & flexible meeting space. New I-Spa and renovated gym. Award winning restaurants.

Syngrou 89-93, Neos Kosmos.

Tel: 210.920.6000

COCO-MAT Hotel Athens is an understated luxury, design hotel that sits in the heart of Kolonaki and offers relaxing sleep, delicious homemade breakfast and selected services for its esteemed guests. 36 Patriarchou Ioakeim str.

Tel: 210.723.0000

Newly renovated, at a very convenient location attracts both business and leisure travellers. Amenities include restaurant, bar, rooftop swimming pool, conference and business facilities, garage parking.

Michalakopoulou 50, Athens.

Tel: 210.727.8000

This city landmark is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. All 265 rooms and 56 suites are decorated with original artwork and antiques.

Reception areas, ballrooms, roof garden with Acropolis view. Luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools.

Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.333.0000

ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE HOTEL

CIVITEL ATTIK

DIVANI APOLLON PALACE & SPA

Holiday Inn Attica Avenue

66 state-of the-art rooms, 15 executive rooms and 3 suites. The acclaimed Etrusco Restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean cuisine.

Kallirois 32 & Petmeza, Neos Kosmos.

Tel: 210.921.5353

A tranquil first-class business, sports and family hotel set in the leafy green suburb of Maroussi, with a swimming pool, conference facilities and spacious restaurant with terrace.

Eptalofou 13 – 15, Maroussi. Τel: 210.610.1000

Located seaside with a magnificent view of the Saronic Gulf. All rooms with balconies and sea views. Indoor and outdoor pools, boutiques, beauty parlor, business centre and spa.

Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Kavouri Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.891.1100

New five-star property on Attica Avenue linking Athens with the international airport.

State-of-the art conference facilities, restaurant, two bars, pool and fitness center.

40.2 km Attica Road, between exits 17 & 18, Spata. Tel: 210.668.9000

ATHENS ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL

CIVITEL OLYMPIC

DIVANI CARAVEL

Holiday Suites

Located in historic Plaka beneath the Acropolis. Facilities include bar, restaurant, spa area with indoor swimming pool, business centre, garden and underground parking.

N. Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka.

Tel: 210.337.0000

Right across the Olympic Stadium, its Superior Rooms and Junior Suites are fitted with modern amenities, from free minibar to free wifi internet access and interactive tv.

Kifissias 2A & Pantanassis, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.680.1900

Situated close to major tourist attractions with, rooftop restaurant and swimming pool.

Vas. Alexandrou 2, Kesariani.

Tel: 210.720.7000

Elegant, all-suite hotel offering high standard accommodation. Each suite provides guests with a separate living room and kitchenette.

Arnis 4, Ilissia.

Tel: 210.727.8000

insider athens | 65

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KEFALARI SUITES

METROPOLITAN

RADISSON BLU

THEOXENIA PALACE HOTEL

Turn-of-the-century hotel in Kifissia, part of YES! Hotels.Themed suites with modern facilities.

Pentelis 1, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3333

Overlooking the Acropolis and the Saronic Gulf, the Metropolitan Hotel combines warm hospitality and urban luxury.

Syngrou Ave 385, Paleo Faliro Tel: 210.947.1000, metrpolitan@chandris.gr

Set across from the lush groves of Pedion tou Areos park, this contemporary hotel is a 4-minute walk from Victoria metro station and 2.9 km from the Acropolis.

Alexandras Avenue 10, Athens Tel: 210.889.4500

In an elegant neoclassical building, this hotel has a restaurant, gym, sauna and outdoor pool. Business centre, internet & conference facilities.

Filadelfeos 2, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3622

KING GEORGE

NEW

SEMIRAMIS

THE MARGI

Situated in the heart of the city, it’s 102 guest rooms and suites are elegantly furnished and natural wood floors. Meeting & Conference spaces, restaurants with panoramic views.

Vas. Georgiou A’ 3. Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.322.2210

Designed by the Campana brothers, NEW, the latest venture of YES! Hotels has 79 luxury rooms, including 18 Studios and 6 Junior Suites. NEW Taste, is the Hotel’s innovative restaurant concept.

Filellinon 16, Syntagma.

Tel: 210.3273000

YES! Hotel designed by Karim Rashid. 51 luxury rooms, 4 suites and 6 poolside bungalows. Ultra-trendy bar-restaurant.

Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari-Kifissia.

Tel: 210.628.4400

Boutique hotel with 90 spacious rooms and suites and great views to the sea and pine forests. Baku Restaurant offers a unique dining experience while Malabar and the Lobby lounge are perfect for a glass of champagne.

Close to the lake, beach and tennis courts.

Litous 11, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.892.9000

LIFE GALLERY

NJV athens plaza

SOFITEL ATHENS AIRPORT

THE WESTIN ATHENS

Modern architecture finds its expression in a minimalist designed building with discreet swimming pools, Zen gardens and ethnic elements. The hotel offers 29 spacious, luxury rooms, including 3 art studios and 2 suites and a spa and fitness centre.

Thiseos Avenue 103, Ekali. Tel: 211.106.7400

Boutique-style hotel with 182 rooms including 23 suites with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, ideally located in the heart of the business and shopping district within walking distance of Plaka. 2, Vas.Georgiou A’ St, Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210 3352400

Airport hotel. Executive floor, business center and conference facilities. Two bars and two restaurants. Health club and covered swimming pool.

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. Tel: 210.354.4000

Part of the Astir Palace Complex with 162 guest rooms and suites and views of the Saronic Gulf. Sea view lounges, trendy bars, fusion and Mediterranean cuisine restaurants and private gazebos by an Olympic-sized pool.

Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.890.2000

MELIÁ ATHENS

NOVOTEL

ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS HOTEL

ATHENS WAS

Located in the heart of Athens with 136 luxury rooms, spacious dining areas, a modern health club and views of historic monuments.

Chalkokondili 14 & 28th Octovriou, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.332.0100

Located in the center of Athens. Two Bars/ Restaurants at outdoor Rooftop Pool & lobby area, play area, gym, free indoor parking, free Wi-Fi and panoramic view from the Roof Garden.

4-6 Michail Voda Street, Vathis Square.

Tel: 210.820.0700

Located in the upper part of Kolonaki, not far from the Lycabettus (Lykavittos) funicular railway. Excellent restaurant, Le Grand Balcon. Rooftop swimming pool.

Kleomenous 2, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki.

Tel: 210.741.6000

Urban adventure, daring design, original architecture, energetic social hub and stylish comfort, AthensWas’ 21 rooms all feature verandas to take in a truly authentic Athenian experience.

Dionysiou Areopagitou 5, Tel:210.725.4871

66 | insider athens

TwentyOne

A member of YES! Hotels. Modern design and simple architectural charm. 16 ergonomically designed rooms and 5 loft suites.

“21” Bar Restaurant for indoor and outdoor dining.

Kolokotroni 21, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.3521

Herodion

A five minute walk to Plaka. 90 guest rooms, meeting facilities and a lovely atrium bar-coffee shop.

Rovertou Galli 4, Makrigianni.

Tel: 210.923.6832

A CATEGORY AVA HOTEL & SUITES

HOTEL ELECTRA

Luxurious apartments and suites in Plaka. Magnificent views of the Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch and Zeus Temple. Short walk to Syntagma.

Lysikratous 9-11, Plaka.

Tel: 210.325.9000

Within walking distance from all archaeological sites, business and commercial districts. Includes bar, restaurant, lobby and meeting areas.

Ermou 5, Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.337.8000

amarilia hotel

PERISCOPE HOTEL

An excellent choice for business and leisure travellers. 100 renovated rooms and suites with great sea views, meeting and banqueting facilities, outdoor swimming pool.

Ag. Nikolaou 13 Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.899.0391

17 rooms, 4 junior suites and a super-lux penthouse suite. Part of YES! Hotels.

Haritos 22, Kolonaki.

Tel: 210.729.7200

Fresh Hotel

Philippos

Situated in the heart of old Athens within walking distance of the Plaka. Enjoy the Orange Bar, rooftop restaurant and pool.

Sophocleous 26 & Klisthenous, Omonoia.

Tel: 210.524.8511

Recently refurbished, all 50 rooms are wellappointed and comfortable. Good value for money.

Mitseon 3, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.922.3611-4

COSTA NAVARINO

SANTORINI

The Westin Resort Costa Navarino

MYSTIQUE

Inspired by old Messinian mansions, its 445 deluxe rooms, suites, 123 with private infinity pools, offer access to an extensive common pool areas, and reflect Westin’s soothing aesthetic.

Navarino Dunes Costa Navarino, Pilos Messinia, Tel: 27230.95000

Mystique is an 18 villa hotel, designed by Frank Le Fevbre.

Mystique, Oia. Tel. 22860.71114

The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort

The Tsitouras Collection Hotel

289 exquisitely appointed rooms and 32 suites with individual infinity pools.

Traditional Greek design with contemporary touches.

Navarino Dunes Costa Navarino, Pilos Messinia, Tel: 27230.96000

Art and hospitality are graciously combined in the unique backdrop of a dramatic landscape.

Firostefani, Santorini Tel: 22860.23747

evia

VEDEMA

THERMAE SYLLA wellness hotel

Voted one of the ten best spas in the world, it has 101 rooms, 7 Suites and 1 presidential suite with an incredible sea view. 2 restaurants offer traditional Mediterranean cuisine Posidonos 2, Edipsos, Evia. Tel: 22260.60100

PATMOS

Vedema has 45 rooms converted from a 100 year old neo-classical captain’s house and a private swiming pool for all the suites.

Vedema, Megalohori.

Tel: 22860.81796

SYROS

Patmos Aktis Suites & Spa

VILLA SELENA

A 5-star luxury hotel situated only a few steps from Grikos beach. Considered possibly the best located hotel in Patmos.

Patmos, Grikos Bay. Tel: 22470.32800

A luxurious five-star boutique hotel with suitably equipped rooms and suites to ensure a comfortable stay. The spacious terrace with a panoramic view is ideal for breakfast or drinks Tel. 22810 86007, www.villaselena.eu

insider athens | 67

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OTE video conference service

7.30am-10pm. Patission 85.

Tel: 210.883.8578, 210.822.0399

Commercial Office spaces Regus

Tel: 210.727.9000

Global Business Services Tel: 210.876.4876 Kifissias Ave. 90, Maroussi

COURIER SERVICES ACS

Asklipiou 25, Kryoneri Tel: 210.819.0000

DHL Tel: 210.989.0000 Express City S. Trikoupi 71, Athens Tel: 210.821.9959

Geniki Taxydromiki

Kifissou 14, Renti, Tel: 210.485.1100

Speedex

Seneka 24, 15klm Athinon-Lamias, Kifissia Tel: 801.110.0011

UPS

Driving School Highway

Amfitheas and Ag. Triados 30, 175 64 P. Faliro, Tel: 210.988.8098, 699.772.2777

Vlachos Bros

25th Martiou 20, Peristeri; Xenofodos 17, Peristeri; Afroditis 39, Ilion Tel: 210.574.4895, 210.576.9190

Relocation Agencies Allied Pickfords

Mourouzi 7, Athens, Tel: 210.610.4494

Athens Relocation Centre Zakynthou 10, Glyfada Tel: 210.965.0697

Attica Movers

Syngrou Ave. 19, Neos Kosmos, Tel: 210 922 7221

Celebrity International Movers Kapodistriou Ave. 102, Nea Ionia Tel: 210 272 0106

Corporate Relocations Athens Ag. Saranta 32, Nea Erithrea Tel: 210.800.3510

Orphee Beinoglou

27th km Old National Road Athens-Korinth Location Elefsinia, Elefsina Tel: 210.946.6100

Octopus Relocation Services

Ygeias 7, Marina Zeas, Tel: 210.459.9530

4klm Peanias-Markopoulou Av., Koropi Tel: 210.998.4000

TRANSLATIONS / INTERPRETING

Driving Schools in English

Global Business Services Kifisias 90, Maroussi, Tel: 210.876.4876

Trochokinisi Driving School

IBS - International Business Services

28th Oktovriou 126, Ambelokipi, Thessaloniki Tel: 2310.729.092

Michalakopoulou 29, Kaissariani Tel: 210.724.5541

MISSED THESE GREAT ISSUES?

Travel Agencies Travel Plan

Christou Lada 3, Athens Tel: 210.333.300, www.travelplan.gr

Amphitrion

Kyprou 46 & Ploutarhou, Dafni Tel: 210.900.6000, www.amphitrionholidays.gr

TravelPlanet24

Karagiorgi Servias 4, Syntagma Tel: 211 107 9684, www.travelplanet24.com

Mid-east Travel

Vas Sofias 105-107, Ampelokipoi Tel: Tel: 211.211.8888, www.mideast.gr

French Institute

Embassies Cultural Institutes

Business services

AUDIOVISUAL

Tel: 210.721.3039

BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.8105

CANADA Eth. Antistaseos 48, Halandri Tel: 210.727.3400

CHILE

Rigilis 12, Athens, Tel: 210.729.2647

CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.3282

CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.677.7033

CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei, Tel: 210.685.5550

CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A, Athens, Tel: 210.373.4800

Hellenic American Union

DENMARK Mourouzi 10, Athens,

Massalias 22, 10680 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900

British Council

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.671.9701 Tel: 210.725.6440

EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3, Syntagma, Tel: 210.361.8612

Kolonaki Square 17 106 73 Athens Tel: 210.369.2333

ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4, Ampelokipoi,

Instituto Cervantes

Tel: 210.725.5860

Mitropoleos 23, 105 57 Athens, Tel: 210.363.4117

Goethe Institut

Omirou 14-16, 100 33 Athens, Tel: 210.366.1000

Onassis Cultural Centre

Syngrou Ave. 107-109, 117 45 Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000

Instituto Italiano di Cultura Patission (28 Oktovriou) 47 Tel: 210.369.2333, 210.524.2646

ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Vas. Constantinou 14, Athens Tel: 210.756.4191-2

ARGENTINA

Vas. Sophias 59, Athens Tel: 210.724.4158

ARMENIA

Tel: 210.747.5660

FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens, FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.339.1000

FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychico.

Tel: 210.674.9585

GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24,

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.2186

GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Athens, Tel: 210.728.5111

HUNGARY Karneadou 25, Kolonaki Tel: 210.725.6800

INDIA Kleanthous 3, Mets, Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2345

IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16, Patisia, Tel: 210.674.1436

IRAQ Mazaraki 4, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.8276

IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7, Mets, Tel: 210.723.2405

ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1,

K. Palaiologou 95, Athens, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145

P. Psychico, Tel: 210.670.5500

AUSTRALIA

JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri.

ITALY Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.361.7260

Kifisias & Alexandras, Ampelokipoi, Tel: 210.870.4000

Tel: 210.670.9900

AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Av. 4,

Tel: 210.674.4161

Athens, Tel: 210.725.7270

AZERBAIJAN

Skoufa 10, Athens, Tel: 210.363.2721

68 | insider athens

BRAZIL Vassilis Sofias 23, Athens

CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6,

ALGERIA

send us an e-mail at: subscriptions@insider-magazine.gr or give us a call at: 210.729.8634

Hatzikosta 3, Athens, Tel: 210.641.0788

Sina 31, 10680 Athens Tel: 210.339.8600

Tel: 210.687.6200

35.000 readers get the best of Greece each month.

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BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

BANGLADESH

JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychico.

KAZAKHSTAN Imittou 122, Papagou Tel: 210.654.7765

KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens.

Tel: 210.698.4080

Marathonodromon 119, Palaio Psychiko Tel: 210.672.0250

KUWAIT Marathonodromon 27,

BELGIUM

LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychico,

Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.0314

P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3593 Tel: 210.675.5873

LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49, Kolonaki

TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8, Athens,

Goudi. Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535

LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38, Athens

UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei, Tel:

Private Hospitals

LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofi-

UAE Kifissias Av. 290 & N. Paritsi 2,

Advanced Medical Services, Symmetria Building

MALTA

UK

MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14, Kolonaki,

USA

MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei.

URUGUAY

MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5,

VATICAN

NETHERLANDS Vas Konstantinou 5-7,

VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19,

NIGERIA Streit 17, Filothei Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens

VIETNAM Yakinthon 50, Psychico,

tou Vamva 2, SyntagmaTel: 210.725.6400 V. Sofias 96, Athens, Tel: 210.778.5138 Tel: 210.729.4780

Tel: 210.699.0660

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.4210 Mets, Tel: 210.725.4900

Tel: 210.724.6173

PAKISTAN Loukianou 6, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.729.0122

PALESTINE Giassemion 13,

P. Psychico. Tel.: 210.672.6061-3

PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias,

Piraeus, Tel: 210.428.6441

PERU

Semitelou 2, Athens, Tel: 210.779.2761

PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychico.

Tel: 210.672.1837

POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.679.7700

PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784

QATAR Perikleous 2 & Kifissias Av. 212, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.725.5031 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7,

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.8875

RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28,

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.5235

SAUDI ARABIA Palaiologhou 2 & Agias

Annis, Halandri, Tel: 210.671.6911

SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Athens, Tel: 210.777.4344

SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou. Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.677.1980

SLOVENIA Kifissias Av. 280 & Dimokra-

tias 1, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.0090-091

SOUTH AFRICA

Kifissias 60, Maroussi. Tel: 210.610.6645

SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, Plaka, Tel: 210.921.3123

SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7, Athens, Tel: 210.726.6100

SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.723.0364-6

TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.5122 Representative office THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 &

Kyprou, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.9065

210.680.0230

Tel: .210.677.0220

Ploutarchou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.727.2600 Vas. Sofias 91, Athens, Tel: 210.721.2951 Menandrou 1, Kifissia, Tel: 210.361.3549 Mavili 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3598

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.9169

Tel. 210.612.8733, 210.675.3080.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Emergencies

Tel. 210.729.4483

Tel: 210.726.3000

Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016.

They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer.

Ipirou 1, Athens.

Duty Pharmacies

Call 1434, Also check newspapers for listings.

Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434

Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777

Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coast Guard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000

ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 1158

PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon,

Ethnikis Antistaseos 66, Halandri.

Tel: 210.677.3573 www.symmetria.gr

CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS

Asklipiou St. 31, Athens, Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000 www.centralclinic.gr

EUROCLINIC

Diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre.

Athanasiadou 9, Athens, (near Mavili Sq.), Tel: 210.641.6600

EURODENTICA

Specialized dental care Patision 150, Athens, Tel: 210.866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi, Athens, Tel: 210.619.5760-1, El. Venizelou 162, Kallithea, Athens, Tel: 210.956.5365

YGEIA

Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi, Tel: 210.686.7000, www.ygeia.gr

IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER)

Areos 36, P. Faliro.

Tel: 210.989.2100-20. Distomou 5-7, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.8100

METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL

Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El. Venizelou, N. Faliro. Tel: 210.480.9000 www.metropolitan-hospital.gr

IASO

Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.618.4000

MITERA

Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.686.9000

public Hospitals ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL

Vas. Pavlou 1, Voula. Tel: 210.895.8301-4

EVANGELISMOS

Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.720.1000

KAT HOSPITAL

Nikis 2, Kifissia, Tel: 210.628.0000 Specialized trauma unit.

TZANNEIO

Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus, Tel: 210.451.9411-9

Paediatric Hospitals

PHYSICIANS

EUROCLINIC PAEDON

Ioannis Bitzos, MD

Health

Tel: 210.729.4356

Antheon 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.671.7590

Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900

PAEDON AGIA SOFIA HOSPITAL Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.746.7000

(ENGLISH SPEAKING) Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery, Harilaou Trikoupi 62, Kifissia, Tel: 210.808.0682

heart & vascular centrE E.N. Deliargyris, MD FACC FSCAI Interventional cardiologist. Southern Athens.

Vakchou 2 & Vas. Kostantinou, Tel: 210.897.6276, www.heartline.gr

Lia D. Papathanakou

Dermatologist – Venerologist Adult / Pediatric Dermatology Patriarchou Ioakim 44, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4502, 6974355942.

Newspapers & Magazines

English media

TUNISIA

Tel: 210.674.2120

Athens Insider, the bi-monthly magazine for Greece in English

The International New York Times

carries the English version of

Kathimerini

Radio Athens International Radio 104,4

Good Morning Athens at 10am, English programs at 11am, music programs on weekdays at 9pm, weekends at 1pm.

Peiraios 100, Athens, Tel: 210.341.1610

GREEK LANGUAGE

Schools

LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychico,

The Athens Center

48 Archimidous Street, Mets, Athens 11636, Greece Tel: 210.701.5242

CELT Athens

77 Academias Street, 106 78 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210.330.1455

Greek House

Dragoumi 7, 145 61 Kifissia, Tel: 210.808.5186

Hellenic American Union

22 Massalias str., 106 80 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900

Omilo Greek Language And Culture Panagi Tsaldari 13 (4th floor), 15122 Maroussi, Tel: 210.612.2706

International SCHOOLS St Catherine's British Embassy School

Sofoklis Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi Tel: 210.282.9750

St. Lawrence College Anemon St, Koropi, Tel: 210.891.7000

A.J. Kanellopoulos, MD

American Community Schools of Athens

Dimitris Linos, MD FACS

Byron College

Eye Surgeon, Tsoha 17, Athens, Tel: 210.747.2777 General Surgeon, Kifissias 227, Kifissia, Tel: 210.612.5001-2

Aghias Paraskevis Ave. 129, Halandri, Tel: 210.639.3200 Filolaou 7, Gerakas, Tel: 210.604.7722

insider athens | 69

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New tel: 138, Tel. (defective): 129 OTE customer service: 134 International call information (English, French & German): 169 www.ote.gr

Road Assistance ELPA: 104

Public Power Corporation (DEI)

www.ika.gr

Greek Manpower Employment Organization (OAED)

www.oaed.gr, Tel: 210 99 89 000

Public Services

Paramythia

Cycladon 11, Glyka Nera, Tel: 210.600.3196

Play and Learn

Kassaveti 22, Kifissia, Tel: 210.801.1428

German kindergartens

Administration Information Center (paperwork assistance) on weekdays 8am-3pm (KEP): Tel: 177, ww.kep.gov.gr

O mikros Antonis

Tel: 148, www.hnms.gr

Scuola maternal italiana de Atene

Water Supply & Sewage (EYDAP)

Citizen’s Rights Ombudsman:

Il Mulino magico

Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia, Tel: 210.202.0274 Troados 23, Ag Paraskevi, Tel: 210.600.3148

German School in Athens

Dimokritou 6 & Germanikis Scholis Athinon Maroussi, Tel: 210 6199260-5

Greek German School

25 Martiou & Vernardou, Vrylissia Tel: 210.682.0566

International School of Athens Xenias and Artemidos, Kifissia, Tel: 210.623.3888

Lycée Franco-Hellénique Eugène Delacroix

Chlois & Trikalon, Ag. Paraskevi Tel: 211.300.9121

Scuola Statale Italiana

Odos Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia Tel: 210.228.2720

St Catherine's British Embassy School

Sofoklis Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi Tel: 210.282.9750

St. Lawrence College

Anemon St, Koropi, Tel: 210.891.7000

Universities University of Indianapolis

Ipitou 9, Athens, Tel: 210.323.6647

DEREE

Gravias 6, Aghia Paraskevi, Tel: 210.600.9800

ALBA Graduate Business School Athinas Ave. & Areos 2A, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210.896.4531

English kindergartens

International Kindergartens

Aghias Ioulianis, Pallini, Tel: 210.607.1700

The Cottage Kindergarten Psaron 74, Halandri Tel: 210.682.7629

Early Learning

Rizountos 53, Elliniko Tel: 210.961.8763

Hopscotch International Kindergarten Ag. Triandos 93, Vari Tel: 210.965.3985

Learning Steps

Ath. Diakou 81 & Ydras 5, Kifissia, Tel: 210.620.5818

Melina’s Kindergarten

Harilaou Trikoupi 16, Kifissia Tel: 210.801.2719

Stephanou Delta, P. Psychico Tel: 210.679.8100

Benakeios Library

Anthimou Gazi 2, Athens Tel: 210.367.1027

British Council Library Kolonaki Sq. 17, Kolonaki Tel: 210.363.3211/5

French Institute Library

Prince Allen The English Nursery School Lysimahou 8, Vari Tel: 210.965.6800

French kindergartens Au petit bonheur 50 Iraklitou, Glyfada, Tel: 210 9658 207

Mary Poppins

Spartis 36 & Harilaou Trikoupi, Kifissia Tel: 210 80 11 570 4, Kodrou, Filothei, Tel: 210.677.3803

Tel: 210.929.0200

MASTERCARD

Tel: 00.800.1188.703.03

VISA

Tel: 00.800.1163.803.04 Post offices operate weekdays 8am-2pm. The main post offices in Athens are located at SYNTAGMA SQUARE and OMONIA SQUARE at Aeolou 100 and open weekdays 7:30am-8pm, Sat 7:30am-2pm, and Sun 9am1:30pm.

Country Code: 30 City Code: 210 international calls first dial 00,

then the country code.

To call from a Public pay- phone buy a phone card at the kiosks.

Prepaid mobile phone cards (SIM cards) are available for €5 at kiosks, post offices, mini markets and mobile phone company stores.

German Archaeological Institute Library Pheidiou 1, Athens Tel: 210.362.0270

Goethe Institute Library Hellenic American Union Greek Library

Lakonias 4-6, Voula Tel: 210.895.9654

DINERS CLUB

31 Sina St, Athens Tel: 210.362.4301

Peter Pan

Business College of Athens

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Athens College Library

Omirou 14-16, Athens Tel: 210.360.8111

Vougliameni, Tel: 210.967.1970

Les Alouettes

Tatoiou 2 & Othonos 77, Kifissia Tel: 210.808.8008

Souedias 54, Athens Tel: 210.723.6313

Peek-a-boo PreSchool

American University of Athens Kifisias & Sochou 4, Neo Psichiko, Tel: 210.725.9301

Libraires

American School of Classical Studies Blegen

Campion School

Tel: 210.324.4975

Italian kindergartens

Weather Attica,

5 Hatziyiannis Mexis (near the Hilton Hotel), Tel: 210 72 89 640

AMERICAN EXPRESS

Barbayiannis, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.2527

In case of power failure: Tel: 210.523.9939 www.dei.gr

In case of water cut: Tel: 1202, www.eydap.gr

LOST OR STOLEN CREDIT CARDS

Money

Social Security & Health insurance (IKA)

Phone Post

Telephone & Internet Services (OTE)

Masalias 22 (7th floor), Athens Tel: 210.362.9886

Italian Archeological Institute Library Parthenonos 14-16, Acropolis Tel: 210921.4024

Italian Institut Library Patision 47, Omonia

National Library

Tzavella 25, Syntagma, Tel: 210.382.0657

Nordic Library

7 Kavalotti St, Makrigianni Tel: 210.924.9210, 210.924.9211

advertise in our Advertise business here and on our website: listings, andyour reach www.insider-publications.com thousands of customers

tram

Tel: 210.998.0222

AAA Royal Prestige Tel: 210.988.3221

From the Port of Piraeus

Alitalia Tel: 210.998.8888 American

Convecta Travel Agency & Limousine Services

Tram itineraries are only from Syntagma to S.E.F (in Neo Faliro) and from Syntagma to Asklipio Voulas. From Monday to Thursday, trams operate from 5.am until midnight and non-stop from Friday morning to Sunday midnight. www.tramsa.gr

Air Taxis (Helicopter and

Limousines Kacaya

TAXIS

Tel: 210.361.3373

plane charters) Tel: 210.938.4149

British Airways Tel: 210.353.0453 Continental Tel: 210.353.4312 Cyprus Airways Tel: 210.353.4100 Easy Jet Tel: 211.198.0013 El Al Tel: 210.934.1500-1 Emirates Tel: 210.933.3400 Etihad Tel: 210.324.1010 Iberia www.iberia.com/gr Lufthansa Tel: 210.617.5200 Olympic Airways Tel: 801.801.0101 Qatar Airways Tel: 210.950.8700 Singapore Tel: 210.994.2567 Swiss / Crossair Tel: 210.617.5320 Tunisair Tel: 210.969.6496 Turkish Tel: 210.988.5700

Airport

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport Spata. Tel: 210.353.0000, 210.353.1000. www.aia.gr

24 HOUR VIP TRANSPORT SERVICE

WSW Skycap Services at Athens Airport provides Meet & Greet, Baggage Hauling and Transport Service.

Tel: 210.353.0100 www.skycap.gr For info about the public bus lines please check our section public transport

Car rental

Ada Rent-a-Car

Astra Limousine Service

Tel: 210.922.0333/807.9996

Tel: 210.322.5090 Tel: 210.323.4120

Combined tickets for metro, buses and trolleys (€1,40) are available from metro stations and central ticket booths, valid within 90 mins of validation for all public transport - except the airport service, which costs 8€.

EXPRESS BUS from/to airport

X93 Kifisos Intercity Bus Station - Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to the intercity bus (KTEL) terminals KIFISOS and LIOSION X95 Syntagma – Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to Syntagma Square at Athens city center.

X96 Peiraias – Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to Piraeus central passenger port terminals.

X97 Dafni Metro Station – Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to DAFNI metro station.

Tickets available at the Arrivals Hall; validate on board. Fare is €6 One-way travel time estimates**: X93 (65’ min), X95 (70’ min), X96 (90’ min), X97 (70’ min).

For further information dial 185 or visit www.oasa.gr, www.ametro. gr. For info on trains visit www.proastiakos.gr

Arena Tel: 210.894.6883,

HELLENIC RAILWAYS ORGANIsATION

Auto Union

Karolou 1. Tel: 210.529.7002, www.ose.gr

Tel: 210.322.0087 210.614.7400

Tel: 210.602.0162

Avis Tel: 210.322.4951 Budget Tel: 210.921.4771-3 Europcar Tel: 210.924.8810-8

Hertz Tel: 210.998.2000 Michael Stamou Luxury

Rentals

Tel: 210.922.2442/43

Sixt Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.570.6895, 210.922.0171

ATHENS METRO Line 1 (Piraeus-Kifissia) 5am-midnight, Line 2 (Anthoupoli-Elliniko) 5.30ammidnight, Line 3 (Aghia Marina-Doukissis Plakentias) 5.30am-midnight Line 3 (Aghia Marina-Airport) 5.30am22.52pm and 06.30am-23.30pm.

The last itinerary is 2 hours later on Friday and Saturday night than it is during the week. www.ametro.gr

Taxis from the airport have a flat rate of €35 to Central Athens. Between midnight and 5am double tariff applies.

Note: If you suspect that you have been overcharged, you can call the tourist police 0n 171

INTERCITY BUSES Terminal 1: Buses for Igoumenitsa,

Ioannina, Kavala, Loutraki, Patra, the Peloponese, and Thessaloniki. Kifissou 100, Tel: 210.512.4910-1, www.ktel.org

Terminal 2: Buses for Delphi, Evia,

Galaxidi, Karpenisi, Katerini, Lamia, Livadia, Thiva and Volos. Liosion 260.

For KTEL itineraries all over Greece call 14505

RADIO TAXI Enotita Tel: 210.645.9000 Ermis Tel: 210.411.5200 Ikarus Tel: 210.515.2800 Kifissia Tel: 210.801.4000 Piraeus Tel: 210.418.2333 Radio Taxi Glyfada

Northern and Eastern Aegean Islands: Gates A & B Chios, Ikaria, Lesvos, Samos, Dodecanese Islands: Gate E Kalymnos, Kos Leros, Patmos, Rhodes, Saronic Gulf Islands: Gates G & E Aegina, Hydra, Poros, Spetses, Crete: Gate A Aghios Nikolaos, Chania, Iraklio, Kastelli (Kissamos), Rethymno, Cycladic Islands: Gates B, G & D Astipalea, Folegandros, Kimolos, Kithnos, Milos, Serifos, Sifnos: Gate B Amorgos, Donoussa, Ios, Iraklia, Koufonissi, Mykonos, Santorini, Schinoussa, Syros, Tinos: Gates G&D Naxos, Paros: Gate Gtt

Superfast Ferries Daily departures, Greece - Italy: from Patras and Igoumenitsa to Ancona and Bari Head office: 23-125 Syngrou Avenue & 3 Torva Street 11745 Athens. Tel:210.891.9000 Reservations: Athens: 210.891.9130 Thessaloniki: 2310.560.700, www. superfast.com

Hellenic Seaways 210 41 99 000 www.hellenicseaways.gr

Anek Lines www.anek.gr Domestic lines: 210 41 97 420 International lines: 210 41 97 430 Minoan Lines www.minoan.gr Tel: 801 11 75 000

Tel: 210.960.5600

There is a booking fee of €2 added to the meter, and a €3,40 + VAT for a pre-arranged meeting. For PET taxis there is an extra charge of €5.

YACHT CHARTERS A1 Yacht Trade Consortium

Akti Themistokleous 8, Marina Zeas, Piraeus. Tel: 210.458.7100

Ghiolman Yachts

Seaports

Tel: 210.965.2300-22

Public transport

Air Malta

Ferries

LIMOUSINES

Airlines

Aegean Tel: 801.11.20000 Air France KLM

Sea ports Lavrio Tel: 22920.27711, 22920.22089 Piraeus Tel: 210.422.6000-4 Rafina Tel: 22940.22300, 22940.28888

Ferries

Ferries run year-round. For information on seasonal schedules contact a travel agent or call the Port Police on 210.422.6000

Filellinon 7, Syntagma. Tel: 210.323.3696

Northstar

Poseidonos 9 & Achilleos, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.988.4000

PGA

Shipping Posidonos 61, P. Faliro.

Tel: 210.985.9400

Seahorse Alkyonidon 83 (Marina), Voula. Tel: 210.895.2212

Seascape Poseidonos Ave. 29,

Alimos.

Tel/Fax: 210.985.8301

Valef Yachts Pl. Chatzikonstanti 2, Piraeus. Tel:210.451.2010 Vernicos Yachts Posidonos 11, Kalamaki. Tel: 210.985.0122-8

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2 1 4 3 KALO PASCHA

5

Few can argue that Easter celebrations in Greece are the most poignant, intensely beautiful dates in the Greek calendar. Of far more importance than Christmas, Easter abounds in paradoxes – austerity and fasting swapped for gift-shopping and feasting, mournful laments around Christ’s bier traded for firecrackers lighting up the sky, black on Good Friday to dressing to the nines for Saturday night’s Resurrection mass, grieving supplanted by joyousness. Easter is when most people return to their village or island to join their families. Almost everyone goes to the Easter Saturday service. Children hold on to their lambades often emblazoned with their favourite Disney character or football team and wear squeaky new shoes. Then the much awaited flame arrives from Jerusalem, candles are lit, neighbours wish each other Christos anesti before heading home, shielding fickle flames from sudden gusts of wind, and the family gathers around for mageiritsa. The next morning preparations get underway for the highlight of the Easter feast - the Paschal lamb spit- roasted over charcoal. 1.Solemn yet spectacular epitaphios in Monemvasia, 2.Candles lit by the devout, 3.Unique Easter rituals in Corfu, 4.Tsoureki - traditional Easter bread, 5.Easter eggs, the symbol of resurrection.

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