Insider 131 February 2017

THE CITY MAGAZINE OF

February 2017 Year 16. Issue 131 €4.50 ISSN 1790-3114

ATHENS

KEEP IT GREEN TRAVEL Fab Four Green Holidays, Park Life, Glorious Off-Season Greece ART & CULTURE Going “La-La” in Athens, Documenta 14 Digested GASTRONOMY Best Green Bites, Pancake Paradiso PEOPLE Rebel with a Cause Costas Varotsos, Master of Crime Petros Markaris

insiderMAPS athens | February 1 ARTS, ENTERTAINMENT, FOOD & WINE, NIGHTLIFE, SHOPPING, NOVELTIES, AND2017MORE

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I remember one of Athens’ first feeble attempts at the annual European car-free day in September 2001. It passed, as usual, unnoticed in a fog of exhaust and gridlocked metal. But that was then. Greeks have since wised up to the fact that for the blue skies and blue seas formula to continue to work its magic in the future, Greece will have to add a touch of green to the mix.

There’s still a long way to go, of course. It feels unlikely that we’ll see the litter-free beaches and spotlessly-groomed public spaces of some of our more civic-minded European compatriots anytime soon. But it can only be a positive sign that concepts such as “locavores” and “zero fast fashion” are gaining ground here and that “green” has indeed become a state of mind. The lack of sensitivity we once displayed as to how we lived and the future of our children has now been supplanted by a generation spearheading innovative, environmentally-friendly solutions through community participation and a strong sense of responsibility towards our planet.

These are times of great flux for Greece. As we currently sit on the threshold of major transformative revolution, architects, restaurateurs, hoteliers, energy professionals, and organic wine-growers – are all embarking down the eco-route. Through their efforts, we can envisage a collective change in mindset.

All in all, as Spring approaches, bringing with it our much-needed annual dosage of optimism, we hope that this issue will deliver some carbon-free fuel for thought – as well as providing you with some irresistible enticements for going green.

Sudha Nair-Iliades

Publisher - Editor

Contributors in this Issue

Sudha Nair - Iliades

Anita Robert, John Carr, Kelsey Moore, Nike Morgan, Stella Sevastopoulos

Art Director Michel Devanakis

Editor Amanda Dardanis

French Editor Muriel Noël

Client Relations Krysta Foteinopoulou

Graphic Design Fokia Kitsou

Photos Nike Morgan

Top image Anamnesia

Founder Steve Pantazopoulos

Legal Counsel Christos Christopoulos

Subscriptions

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Amanda Dardanis

A print journalist for over two decades, Australian-born Amanda Dardanis started out at News Corp Australia where she has covered specialist rounds from news and politics; property and tourism; to crime and entertainment. In London, she held senior creative roles at glossy titles including Marie-Claire, Woman’s Own, and the Mail on Sunday’s YOU magazine. Since moving to Athens in 2009, she has written on Greece for international publications like The Times London, the Guardian UK and Australia’s Sunday Telegraph – and also contributes to local Greek publications.

John Carr Born in North Staffordshire, John Carr has a BA in history and MA in sociology from Leicester University. He has worked in Greece as a correspondent for the Associated Press, Wall Street Journal Europe, The Times of London and Vatican Radio and as broadcaster, writer and actor since 1978. He has published several books including, The America Capsule (2005),Your Eyes Fourteen (2007), On Spartan Wings (2012), Sparta’s Kings (2012), The Defence and Fall of Greece 1940-41 (2013), RHNS Averof (2014) and the hugely popular Greekisms for Dummies (2016)

Muriel Noël

French by origin and a long-time Greek resident, Muriel is a trained geographer whose love for the media veered her towards a career in publishing with French lifestyle magazine VSD and Maison Française, a design magazine. After a career that spanned several years, she moved to Athens, where she has been actively involved with the French community. Muriel splits her time between Paris and Athens and is the force behind Insider Publications’ French magazine, Bonjour Athenes, its French website and weekly newsletter.

Fokia Kitsou Fokia is Insider’s graphic designer and a student of graphic design at the Technological Educational Institution of Athens.

Born and raised in Athens which she adores, her native city has often been the subject of her photographic essays. Fokia is passionate about travel, art and fashion and plans to further her studies in the field of fashion design.

Krysta Foteinopoulou After studying Broadcasting and Journalism at the Univesity of Wolverhampton, Krysta has reported live for the Greek public broadcaster ERT and covered European affairs and business news for the privately-owned SKAI TV. She has also contributed to several Greek sites and is now the newest addition to the Insider Team.

Stella Sevastopoulos Since moving to Greece in 1994, Stella Sevastopoulos has been art critic and English Editor for ‘The Art Magazine’, and also served as Arts Editor for ‘Athens News’ for 8 years. She wrote her MA thesis on ‘Oscar Wilde and Hellenism in Victorian England’. To read more about art in Athens, visit Stella’s blog at www.artsceneathens.com

Nike Morgan

Leaving Manhattan in the mid-1980’s, Sherri Moshman Paganos came to Greece for a two year sojourn that turned into a 30-year career as an educator, as well as a non-fiction writer and poet. She loves the wonders of living here: food cooked with tradition and care, swimming in the clear sea, watching films and concerts under the stars, and taking walks into the past in vibrant Athens neighborhoods like Plaka and Thiseio.

Anita Robert Anita has had a long and interesting stint with the Swiss print media and in teaching journalism to budding reporters before moving on to a career in public relations for international organizations and public institutions. She moves back to her first love – writing – with her first piece for Athens Insider on Documenta 14.

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Green Agora: Anamnesia

22

CITY LIFE

Documenta 14 Digested

12

Anita Robert breaks down the much-anticipated contemporary art event Documenta 14 and explains what it means for Athens.

GREEN SPECIAL

14

Green Bites

14

Wild about Flowers

18

Green Agora

22

As we nation of meat-lovers begin to embrace “greened-up menus”, Amanda Dardanis uncovers the best places in Athens to enjoy green grub.

Nike Morgan celebrates the showstopping Wildflowers of Greece and lets us in on where – and when - to find the finest floral specimens.

You can’t betray Art

24 Where to go La-La in Atrhens

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Keep alive your summer memories and favourite Greek moments with the witty designs of Anamnesia that you won’t be able forget in a hurry.

ART & CULTURE

You can’t betray Art

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Where to go La-La in Athens

28

From rebel teen to globally-hailed artist, Stella Sevastopoulos catches up with acclaimed sculptor Costas Varotsos, the man who gave Athens her most famous Runner.

As “La-La-Land” fever infects us all, Insider shares our 3 favourite Athens venues to embark on a musical nostalgia journey, Greek-style.

It’s a Park Life

38 TRAVEL

4 Great Green Holidays

From stylish “urban nature concept” sanctuaries to farm-to-fork adventures, and blissed-out island retreats, Amanda Dardanis introduces 4 wonderful destinations to boost your eco-cred in 2017.

4 Great Green Holidays

Follow the Mythic Love Trail

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34

Costis Drimtzias captures the otherworldly beauty of the Acheron river, whose rugged beauty is as rich as the history beneath your feet.

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It’s a Park Life

38

Insider leads a tour of some of the city’s finest ‘lungs’ where you’ll find a great year-round stage for jogging, biking and lazy weekend picnics.

PEOPLE

The Athenian Master of Crime

44

When Trump met Tsipras

47

Insider catches up with Petros Markaris, Greece’s answer to John Le Carré, and the mind behind the much-loved character Commissioner Charitos.

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Sections Arts & Events

06

Fast Lane

10

Travel 30 People 44 Gastronomy

50

Kaleidoscope

72

John Carr imagines a Brief Encounter between our Greek Prime Minister and the newly-installed Leader of the Free World.

GASTRONOMY

Less is More

50

Pancake Paradise in Athens

52

Brunch has become the capital’s latest culinary battleground but AthensWas delivers the extra ingredients to win us over.

The Athenian Master of Crime

44

Amanda Dardanis visits Greece’s first high temple to pancakes, Melinikon, to see how it stacks up.

Cover image: Shutterstock

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arts&events Photography

Throughout February STAVROS NIARCHOS FOUNDATION CULTURAL CENTRE Yannis Behrakis Yannis Behrakis, the 2016 Pulitzer Prize winning photojournalist of international renown, is Senior Editor, Special Projects for the Reuters photo agency. His SNFCC showcase reflects on his recent work concerning the trek of refugees fleeing their homeland in search of a better life. His lens captures faces, scenes of transit or rest, in-between stops and other snapshots from the painful and often endless journey of refugees.

Evripidou & Doiranis, Kallithea, tel: 216.809.1001, www.snfcc.org

Until March 31 FRENCH INSTITUTE ATHENS Athenians & Parisians A stunning collection of never-before seen photographs taken of a still-divided Europe in the late 1980s by Constantinos Pittas. Pittas’ spin-off exhibition follows on from his popular breakout show at the Benaki and runs as a sideline to the GR80s event at Technopolis.

Sina 31, tel: 210.339.8600, www.ifa.gr

Museums

Until March 2017 CYCLADIC MUSEUM Cycladic Society 5,000 Years Ago What was daily existence like in the Cyclades five millennia ago? This new exhibition - to celebrate the Cycladic Museum’s 30th anniversary - looks beyond the simplistic Cycladic figures so loved by Modigliani and Picasso and aims to uncover a more three-dimensional imprint of this fascinating age.

Much mystery remains about life across the Cycladic Archipelago due to the absence of written records from the time. But Cycladic Art stands as silent witness – and provides important clues about the social structure, activities, living environment, convictions and beliefs of the Cycladic islanders in the Early Bronze Age (3,200-2,000 BC).

Neofitou Douka 4, tel: 210.722.8321, www.cycladic.gr

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Until March 31 ACROPOLIS MUSEUM Emperor Hadrian Exactly 1900 years ago, Hadrian was ascending the throne of the Roman Empire. Humanist, literate, poet and philosopher with a peaceful reputation, the Emperor Hadrian was a great benefactor of the city of Athens. To celebrate this anniversary, the Acropolis Museum presents a sculpted marble bust representing Hadrian found in excavations under the Syngrou Avenue, as well as a video depicting the impressive building program carried out in Athens during his 2nd century reign.

Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, tel: 210.900.0900, www.theacropolismuseum.gr

Until February 28 HELLENIC COSMOS Tutankhamun: A Journey to Eternity Travel to the heart of the excavations of the legendary Egyptian pharaoh’s tomb conducted by English archeologist Howard Carter in the 1920s in “Tutankhamun: A Journey to Eternity.” The show explores facts and fiction surrounding the legend of King Tut, with precise replicas of many of the key discoveries in the tomb and a wealth of fascinating information. Entry is €7 (€5 reduced).

Pireos 254, Tavros, tel: 212.254.0000, www.hellenic-cosmos.gr

Art

Until May 7

B & M. THEOCHARAKIS FOUNDATION Greek Seascapes We could look at pictures of the Greek Sea all day, so we’ll definitely be checking out the new Greek Seascape Exhibition amalgamating many great works from the National Gallery, the Museum Alexander Soutzos and B. & M. Theocharakis Foundation. The sea is directly connected with the life of the Greeks, their history and experiences, and the showcase promises a journey filled with the light and palettes of the singular Greek waters.

Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, tel: 210.361.1206, www.thf.gr

Until June 30

Until March 12

FRISSIRAS MUSEUM New Horizons: The Identities of Others

BENAKI MUSEUM Katerina Zacharopoulou Petronella Oortman’s Doll House

A presentation of contemporary figurative trends in painting from all over the world. Each artist approaches in their own way, the notion of identity, expressing not only individual, but also collective aspirations – and showing that identity can function through art as both limitation and liberation.

Entrance is €6. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

Monis Asteriou 3 & 7, Plaka, tel: 210.323.4678, www.frissirasmuseum.com.

A production of the State Museum of Contemporary Art Thessaloniki, the exhibition at the Benaki Museum is a reinstallation, a stopover of the historical dollhouse in a way that completes its imaginary journey.

The narration consists of 10 video projections from a woman’s everyday life, which takes place in a fabricated domestic environment, at an unspecified, albeit familiar, time. Katerina Zacharopoulou draws her reference from the original Petronella Oortman’s doll –house, created between 1686 and 1710, still on show today at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. She directs a disparate world with miniature furniture from personal memories and experiences, recording the passing time through simple daily activities.

Pireos 138 & Andronikou, tel: 210.345.3111 www.benaki.gr

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Until end of April

TO TRENO STO ROUF Paris to Istanbul Capture the romance and exoticism of the Orient Express on a luxurious musical voyage back through time. On an atmospheric train carriage, you’ll hear classic songs from the 30s and 70s, inspired by the cities on the famous railway route. A mythical train journey of more than 2,000 kilometres, starting from cosmopolitan Paris to the final destination of Istanbul, with stops along the way that reveal unexpected stories and a colourful mosaic of landscapes, people and cultures. Tickets are €12.

Konstantinoupoleos Ave, tel: 210.529.8922, www.totrenostorouf.gr

Until March 11

Nostalgia

Music

arts&events

TECHNOPOLIS ATHENS GR80s Back to the Future, ghetto blasters, shoulder pads, Yuppies, wine coolers and dodgy hairdos. Whether you’re a true child of the 80s … or are simply fascinated by them, you’ll love this exploration of this bold, swaggering, technicolour decade. GR80s is a vibrant calendar of lectures and interactive workshops covering the vast social change that occurred in Greece during the decade, across the fields of sport, fashion, music, politics, national gastronomy and identity.

Pireos 100, tel: 210.346.1589, www.technopolis-athens.com

ZONARS Homage to Andy Warhol The meeting of two icons as Athenian café landmark Zonars hosts a “Homage to Andy Warhol” exhibition with authentic Andy Warhol works from the private collections of Evangelos Pistiolis and Nikos Stathoulis.

9 Voukourestiou St. & Panepistimiou St, tel: 210.325.1430

Familly

Until February 28

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Until end of March MEGARON MOUSSIKIS Ice Arena Athens’ most atmospheric ice-skating rink is open for the second year at the Megaron Athens Concert Hall. Ice Arena is 375 square meters of skating surface in a cosy all-weather tent-enclosed space in the Atrium. Ticket cost is €10 for an unlimited time and includes skate rental. Private lessons are also available and cost €10 for 15 minutes (arranged by appointment).Open daily from 4pm-11pm; and weekends from 11am-11pm.

Vass. Sofias and Kokkali, Athens, tel: 210.728.2000, www.megaron.gr

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Athens Airport flies the green flag Athens International Airport has now joined the ranks of carbon neutral airports, becoming the 25th European airport to earn the status (and the first in Greece).

The Eleftherios Venizelos Airport achieved Level 3+ Neutrality, certified by the independent carbon management program Airport Carbon Accreditation.

According to Accrediting Commission International, since its opening in 2001, Athens International Airport has ardently demonstrated an ever-evolving environmental agenda. Among other things, it was among the first to invest in solar technology, building a €20 million photovoltaic park on the airport site, as a source of clean, sustainable power.

Greece tipped for Oscar Glory!

Could this be Greece’s golden year at the Oscars? Three Greek artists have been nominated for gongs at the 89th Academy Awards, to be held in Los Angeles on February 26.

Avant-garde Greek filmmaker Yorgos Lanthimos (who shares the nomination with co-writer Efthimis Filippou) is up for Best Original Screenplay for his surrealist sci-fi romance “The Lobster”, starring Colin Farrell and Rachel Weisz.

The second Greek nomination - in the category “Best Documentary Short Subject Filmmaker” - is Daphne Matziaraki for “4.1 Miles”. Her acclaimed documentary shadows a coast guard captain charged with saving thousands of migrants attempting to cross the Aegean during the European migrant crisis.

And last but not least? Costume designer Mary Zophres is in the running for Best Costumes for her stunning retro threads in the runaway smash musical “La La Land”.

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Meet Greece’s female “Einstein” Asimina Arvanitaki wants to explain the universe. And she may well succeed. The Greek physicist, being hailed as Greece’s “Einstein”, recently won the prestigious $100,000 ‘New Horizons in Physics’ Prize, which was presented to her at NASA’s Ames Research Centre in California.

Arvanitaki’s work is at the forefront of an emerging area of research sometimes called “the precision frontier” because it involves making exacting measurements of well-understood phenomena and looking for unexpected deviations from what theory predicts.

The results of her novel experiments promise to provide new insights into the nature of dark matter, particle interactions, and other profound questions that have evaded researchers employing more traditional means.

Arvanitaki joined Perimeter Institute in 2014, after earning an undergraduate degree from the University of Athens and a PhD from Stanford University.

She’ll spend her five-year term, jointly funded by the Perimeter Institute and the Greek-based Stavros Niarchos Foundation, furthering her own cutting-edge work and contributing to education and training for young people in Greece.

The Wheels of Progress Athens’ first pilot bicycle rental station debuted at Technopolis in Gazi early last year. Now, the congestion-busting bike sharing scheme has also been rolled out along the Athens coast (as well as in a number of other Greek cities).

Bike sharing is a winning way to experience the refreshing coastal vibe and stunning scenery of the Athens riviera, while doing your bit to reduce traffic pollution and urban congestion.

You can pick up an ‘’i-Bike’’ bicycle opposite the Asklipio Hospital in Voula; outside the Vari-Voula-Vouliagmeni City Hall; from Vouliagmeni Square; the old Glyfada Town Hall; and from Vergoti Square in Glyfada (with future bike stations also planned for Varkiza and Vari).

The bikes are available to all residents of the area aged 18 years and over. The first 20 minutes are free (and afterwards, cost 1 euro per hour). The cards are available at City Hall in Voula (Av. K. Karamanli 18) by completing an application and showing an identity card. For more information, visit www.glyfada.easybike.gr/en or phone 210.300.4441.

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All you need to know Anita Robert breaks down the much-anticipated contemporary art event Documenta for connoisseurs and neophytes The quinquennial event of contemporary art, Documenta, will be held jointly in Athens (8 April to 16 July 2017) and in Kassel, Germany (from 10 June to 17 September 2017).

More than an artistic encounter, Documenta is a place of experimentation and debate on the state of our societies. Under the title "Learning from Athens", artistic director Adam Szymczyk chose for this fourteenth edition to engage artists in a reflection based on the "Greek crisis� on the Western model in the broad sense and North-South relations. Several of the themes to be discussed at Documenta have a strong resonance to current political discussion whether at conferences or at dinner tables: the neo-liberal model, the future of Europe, refugees, democracy, resistance.

The work of the Argentine artist Marta Minujin "The Parthenon of books" illustrates this approach. From the books that have been censored and re-published around the world, the temple on the Acropolis will be reconstructed on the Friedrichplatz in Kassel, where 2,000 books were burned by the Nazi regime (see illustration).

More than 130 artists will be exhibited during the 100 days of Documenta in museums, buildings and public spaces of Athens. Besides visiting exhibitions and installations, the public will be able to participate in projections, concerts, and thematic visits.

Since last September, the Athens Municipal Art Centre in Parko Eleftherias has evolved into a laboratory of ideas for Documenta14 – a meeting point for Greek and international artists, historians, theoreticians and curators at conferences, workshops and screenings.

In that spirit, during an event entitled "Parliament of bodies", 34 militants from all over the world came to Parko to freely express their thoughts in "34 exercises of freedom".

For its part, Greek television ERD2 broadcasts a film, fiction or documentary every Monday evening at midnight, selected by Documenta14 (until 18 September 2017).

Several events are scheduled in Athens during the opening week of 8-12 April 2017.

info For more info, visit www.documenta14.de

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Art & Culture

about Documenta 14

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Green Special

Green Bites

Vegetarian restaurants and Greeks. They used to be about as popular a pairing as wet weather and weddings. But times they are a-changing, and now this nation of meat lovers is also embracing healthier, more energising diets, (as evidenced by the capital’s growing crop of vegetarian and greened up menus). If you like the sound of feta made with cashews, avocado mayonnaise, or chia seed pudding, keep reading as we share our pick of the best places in Athens to enjoy green grub.

NICE n EASY ATHENS Long the go-to place for the health-conscious, Nice n Easy remains one of the leading purveyors of the farm to table trend here in Greece, thanks to founders Dimitris Christoforidis and Chef Christos Athanasiadis and their undimmed passion for organic eating.

In fact, it was long before bio and organic became mandatory prefixes to be added onto restaurant menus that Christoforidis introduced the concept of refined healthy eating to Athenians when he launched Nice n Easy, nearly ten years ago now.

Christoforidis’ tryst with the restaurant biz dates back a couple of decades when A-list celebrities would queue up to dine at his LA restaurant, Sanctuary. Sinatra, after whose 1960 Grammy-winning album, the restaurants are named, was a regular (which explains the retro Hollywoodthemed fit-outs you’ll see at Nice n Easy’s three venues here in Greece.

Experience their adventurous take on indigenous Hellenic fare (with a special emphasis on fair trade ingredients and antioxidant recipes) at Nice n Easy’s flagship Athens branch or their other inviting outposts in Kifissia and Mykonos.

Top Tastes The Sean Connery - freshly baked wild salmon with a herb and citrus crust on a quinoa tabbouleh base - the pale, luxurious fillet off-setting the crunchiness and bite of the ‘it’ grain, quinoa - and the Audrey Hepburn, a tasty tangle of sautéed wild mushrooms with thyme and gorgonzola cheese.

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Nice n Easy

Gastronomy

IT Kolonaki’s stylish IT restaurant started life in 2003 as a humble takeaway venture. But it wasn’t long before customers began pestering owner Kallia Kambouridou for an eat-in restaurant where IT’s marvelously imaginative menu, with its strong accent on wholesome, nutritious meals, could be relished on a plate.

Kallia responded in 2013 with “a casual dining concept” that focuses on high-quality, down-to-earth foods served in an eco-friendly yet modern setting (a vertical garden dominates one wall plus there’s an elegant book nook nook where you can browse through magazines).

Icons depicting “vegetarian, low gluten, superfood, low cal” help guide customers through a broad menu loaded with lean dinner choices priced between about €10-20; a wide range of “quick bites”, such as healthy wraps all priced around €5; and colour-popping salads (try their new coleslaw with Brussels sprouts, lemon, yogurt, tahini and cranberries, €7).

Top Tastes Guilt-free burgers with caramelized onions; fresh sea bass fricassee with coconut milk, lemon and ginger; tuna fillet with celery root, kale and carob syrup); Quinoa wrap with chicken, mango, coriander and sweet chili sauce.

IT

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YI

On any given day at Yi (or Γή – earth - in Greek), you’re likely to find laptop-wielding customers taking advantage of the speedy wi-fi connection to tap away over an almond milk cappuccino – as well as mums with young children who adore Yi’s strictly no lighting up policy.

Just out of range of the main Glyfada drag, near the Holmes Place gym, Yi is a no-frills, vegan-raw based restaurant launched several years back with respect and love for the ‘green’ diet and ideology. All of the dishes and products are lactose, sugar, and gluten-free. Sweeteners are made out of Yi’s own syrups, created from dates, honey, raisins, figs, agave or maple syrup. Customers have also been known to beg for their carrot cake recipe!

Top Tastes Vegan feta made with cashew base; stuffed mushrooms, delicious smoothies; and THAT carrot cake.

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Gastronomy

We Also Love MAMA TIERRA

SIMUL

Its name means “Mother Earth” in Spanish – and newcomer Mama Tierra, not far from the Novotel, does indeed execute its super tasty vegetarian and vegan fare with a maternal flourish. We love this small and cosy hutch where chef Polash Alam combines flavours of the Mediterranean, the Middle East, Asia and Latin America to create dishes with an authentic ring of “home cooking” at very reasonable prices (most things on the menu are between about €57). Their home brewed Kambudcha tea is also excellent.

Simul (Gastronomic Situ) opened up shop on the former site of Kolonaki stalwart Prunier in late 2015 and completely transformed the rather old-school French bistro into a minimal, chic and beautifully-lit space serving up an intriguing “Mix & Match” menu where food is interactive art. Not only vegetarian, green eaters seeking a finer dining experience will find plenty to love on chef Nikos Thomas’ creative menu which focuses on harnessing only the best available raw ingredients of the day. Expect to pay about €35-50 per person.

Top Tastes

Top Tastes

Vegan mousakka; mushroom burger (two patties made from fresh champignon and pleurotus mushrooms with herbs and homemade mayonnaise); and a stand-out falafel platter with smooth and creamy hummus. For a glorious sweet note, try their figs cooked in red wine with cashew cream, cardamon and agave syrup.

The beetroot salad with carob, dolce gorgonzola, walnuts and rosemary; the ceviche specialty of the day (fresh marinated raw fish) with lime, chili, cilantro, kelp, grapefruit and afrala from Kythera; and the pumpkin ravioli baked with sage cream and mandarin (an absolute winner).

WILD IN THE CITY

ROSEBUD

You’ll search in vain for the grain on the menu at urban newcomer Wild in the City. No cereals or processed ingredients make their way into recipes here.

What you will find is an abundance of coconut, olive oil, avocado, nuts and flaxseeds, in keeping with their mantra that healthy fatty acids should be the cornerstone of one’s nutrition and healthy-eating lifestyle. Coconut oil is star of the show thanks to its non-burning properties (they help retain nutrients, you know).

How can we resist a café that serves up “healthy junk food” like vegan hotdogs and burgers? A comfy-cosy shabby chic setting and friendly staff add to the appeal.

Top Tastes Their mushroom-packed burger with creamy Florina pepper sauce, capers and cheese – and of course those guiltfree hotdogs!

Top Tastes Bulletproof coffee mixed with virgin coconut oil and clarified butter (to even out that caffeine “rise and fall); and their home-made chocolate mousse and guacamole.

Nice n Easy Athens Omirou 60 & Skoufa, Kolonaki, 210.361.7201 Papadiamanti 7 Kifisia, 210.808.2014 Alefkantra, Mykonos, 228.902.5421 niceneasy.gr It Skoufa 29, Kolonaki, 210.363.5773, itrestaurant.gr Yi Grigoriou Lampraki 69, Glyfada, 210.964.8512 Mama Tierra Akadimias 84, 211.411.4420, mamatierra.gr Wild in the City Stoa Bolani, Voulis 7, 210.331.5776, wildinthecity.gr

AVOCADO

Avocado Nikis 30, 210.323.7878, avocadoathens. com

One of the capital’s first vegetarian pioneers, Avocado arrived five years ago and probably remains the city’s bestknown Vegetarian Ambassador. This convivial eaterie was launched by Eraj Shakib, who moved to Athens from San Francisico a decade ago. His vision was to create an offspring for the yoga studio across the street, in which to provide clients with a completely meat-free environment and a peaceful sanctuary in the thrust of downtown Athens. Since then, Avocado has built a loyal clientele who return for the utterly delicious dishes, which contain no artificial ingredients or preservatives, and the friendly vibe. The options are bountiful from entrees, pizzas, stir fries, super-food juices and organic wines, as well as handmade breads and desserts. Book the upstairs space in advance if you can. It’s a wonderfully-chilled nook where you recline on floor cushions while you eat, making for an especially memorable meal.

Simul Ypsilantou 63, Kolonaki, 210.722.4737, simul.gr Rosebud Skoufa 40 and Omirou 60, 210.339.2370, rosebud.gr

Top Tastes The veggie burgers (€10.50), coconut-milk curries, ginger and passionfruit smoothie.

info

Avocado

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Green Special

Wild About Flowers 18 insider athens | February 2017

City Life

Nike Morgan is happiest when photographing the wild flowers of Greece. Here, she charts some of her most colourful discoveries – such as the fatal pink colchicum used by the vengeful mythological Medea to poison her children - and lets us in on where and when to find the finest floral specimens.

I

A flower for each season

looked up and saw four eyes shyly peering at me, no more than ten metres away – two red deer were standing motionless among the fir trees on Mount Parnitha, beside Bafi Lodge. I managed to snap a photo of them. Then, for just a brief moment, I looked for my friend, Katie, who often accompanied me on my outings into the countryside, so that I could point them out to her but I couldn’t see her. By the time I looked back, the deer had vanished without a sound.

We weren’t looking for deer. We were searching for wild flowers.

When your hobby is photographing wild flowers around Athens, always expect the unexpected – on this occasion, seeing the deer was an added bonus.

Photographing wild flowers has many benefits: breathing the fresh air and enjoying the sunshine, keeping fit by walking by the sea or on a mountainside, the exhilaration of discovering a new flower, the creative satisfaction of capturing a good photo, and the excitement of finding new places.

Anemone coronaria

It’s possible to find wild flowers in and around Athens throughout the year, although they are most abundant in spring and autumn. I took the photo of the red anemones in spring 2014 on the island of Egina, in a large field full of them near a friend’s house.

The delphiniums were in one of my favourite locations – Avlaki on the east coast of Attica, just south of Porto Rafti. (The KTEL bus terminus is on Mavromateon Street, near Victoria metro station.) I’ve found many species of wild flowers in Avlaki over the years, including orchids. In spring and autumn it’s a peaceful place, unlike midsummer when it’s heaving with holidaymakers. You can have lunch at one of the local tavernas after scrambling about on the hillsides. I took this photo in June 2009. The delphiniums are, in fact, tiny – close-ups of wild flowers can be very misleading!

I snapped the pink colchicum on Mount Parnitha in October 2011. The mountain is full of unusual flora. (A cable car takes you to the casino, which you can walk through to get onto the mountain.) This colchicum looks like a tulip or a very large crocus, but I was pretty sure it was neither. When I referred to the book Wild flowers of the Mediterranean (by Marjorie Blamey and Christopher Grey-Wilson) I discovered that I was right. Then I learnt that in Euripide’s play Medea, the mythological sorceress killed her children with poison from this plant to avenge her husband, Jason, who had abandoned her. Medea was from Colchis, which is how the plant acquired its name.

The winter crocus was growing on Mount Pendeli on Boxing Day 2010, during an exceptionally mild December.

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Green Special

“ Crocus cancellatus

Flora & fauna

So far, I have photographed more than 400 plants and, incredibly, I’m still finding ones I’ve never seen before.

So many different species of wild flowers grow in and around Athens that it would be impossible to mention them all in a short article like this. So far I have photographed more than 400 and, incredibly, I’m still finding plants I’ve never seen before. I’m especially fond of irises and orchids, but I haven’t included any here – they will be in the illustrated book I am working on.

You can’t avoid photographing insects that frequent wild flowers, and many are beautiful – not only butterflies, but also metallic green or bronze-coloured beetles, and lots of other creatures. When you start, you don’t know where to stop – at reptiles, birds or even mammals. So why stop? Get the most out of your hobby and photograph the creatures you come across as well!

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Delphinium peregrinum

City Life

Colchicum bivonae

Where to find wildflowers around Athens Within Athens, good places to find wild flowers, especially in spring, are archaeological sites such as the Athenian Agora at Thissio.

There are also parks like Syngrou Park in Marousi on Kifisias Avenue, and Votanikos on Iera Odos, where wild flowers grow on the hillside above, and you can find rare species in the rock garden dedicated to botanist, Myrto Apergi. (From Agia Marina metro station, take a bus to Diomidios bus stop. The Votanikos Park is opposite.)

Around Athens, you can find wild flowers on the coast in places such as the rocky bays near Vouliagmeni on the west coast, or Avlaki on the east coast, as well as around Sounion and Lavrion near the southern tip of Attica. There are three mountains surrounding the city of Athens: Parnitha to the north, Pendeli to the north-east and Immitos to the south-east. All three have been ravaged by fires, but you can still find flowers there. Mount Immitos is bare to the south but greener the farther north you go. I have found flowers to photograph above Papagou and around the monasteries of Karea and Kesariani. Mount Pendeli has a double waterfall in the Drafi area. The stream, which flows all the year round, then passes through a gorge where you can find tadpoles and dragonflies in spring. The path down to it is steep, but it is just one of the places I’ve discovered when searching for wild flowers to photograph.

Finally, please try to avoid the temptation to cut wild flowers. I never pick them because doing so deprives the plant of the ability to reproduce, and many of the flowers I have come across are rare or protected by law. Remember – take only photographs and leave only footprints!

about Nike Margaret Morgan Born in England of a Welsh father and Greek mother, Nike grew up and studied in England where she worked as a primary school teacher. She has lived in Greece for many years and taught English in Athens as well as working as a writer and editor at Hillside Press. She sings in St. Paul’s church choir and the Athens Singers. Nike is interested in astronomy, geology and botany.

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Shopping

Memories of a Greek Holiday

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namnesia is just one of those boutiques that will make you grin, tongue firmly in cheek – even as you wave goodbye to loved ones at the departure terminal.

A cool, Greek brand that oozes wit and takes the cringe out of souvenir shopping, Anamnesia, as its name suggests, promises to keep the memories of a Greek holiday alive.

Greece has always been a classic holiday destination of choice. But Greek souvenirs? They were a whole different ball game. At best, a tacky affair - feeble attempts at reminding holiday-makers of their stay. An imitation island dome. Novelty ouzo bottle. Or at worst, a bronze statue of Pan strutting his stuff.

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Anamnesia stepped in to disrupt that perception with a funky first store in Mykonos and now, a swanky new space at the Athens Airport, sporting a range of utterly-irresistible take-away gifts that are quintessentially Greek in spirit (an apron that deconstructs a Greek salad; a squad of rather bemused-looking squid on a cushion cover), but still universal in their humorous appeal.

The majority of the items have been exclusively designed for Anamnesia by a crew of extremely talented Greek designers, so don’t expect to pick up these quirky creations elsewhere. Whether you want to make a cool style statement, flaunt your globetrotting credentials, or simply improve your rep as a “good gifter”, look no further than Anamnesia.

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1. MUSEUM OF MEMORIES The Anamnesia boutique at the Athens International Airport packages Greek memories with humour and high aesthetics 2. AROUND THE WORLD IN A KAIKI The kaiki table mat, dresses up dreary winters and transports one back to the azure of the Aegean 3. BRING ALIVE YOUR TASTEBUDS Aprons adorned with the briny aftertaste of Greece’s famed olives or the explosive flavours of its immensely satisfying sun-drenched Greek salad 4. CARRYING YOUR MEMORIES ON YOUR BACK Tote bags with memories of a seaside taverna meal or that of suppressing a giggle while gawking at stern-faced tsoliades 5. GREEK MASCOTS Pouches with motifs of two of Greece’s favourite island creatures: the ubiquitous donkey and seabream (fagri) 6. DIVE INTO THE BIG BLUE Octopus and Starfish Cushion covers reminiscent of salty sea spray and meltemis 7. FTOU, FTOU, FTOU Ward off the evil eye armed with a garlic bag and remember to inform the mermaid that Alexander the Great still lives!

info Athens International Airport Departure Terminal, Tel: 210 3533104 Matogianni, Myconos,Tel: 2289 079171 anamnesia.gr

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The Runner

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Interview

You Can’t Betray Art

From rebel teen to globally-hailed artist, Stella Sevastopoulos catches up with the acclaimed sculptor Costas Varotsos, best known for his Athenian landmark ‘The Runner’, and encounters living proof that art conquers all.

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ostas Varotsos has proven that where there’s a will there’s a way. From expelled rebel teenager, to a successful worldwide name, Varotsos has also been teaching art for the last 17 years at the Architecture Department of Thessaloniki’s Aristotle University.

Born in 1955, Varotsos studied art in Rome, plus architecture in Pescara, and was later offered a Fullbright Grant to study in New York (1999). He has exhibited around the globe and in 1995 represented Italy at the Venice Biennale, while in 1999, he represented Greece.

Varotsos’ public works are scattered everywhere: Chicago, Washington, Seattle, San Diego, Miami, Switzerland, Salerno, Rome, Venice, Turin, Gessopalena, Cyprus (and more). In Athens, you’ll find the ‘Runner’ opposite the Hilton, and other works in Rendi, on Pireos Street, in Doukissis Plakentias metro station. Elsewhere in Greece: head to Thessaloniki, Sparta, Delphi and Halkidiki.

Let’s start off with school. Rumour has it you were a bit of a rebel, but also very talented.

I had my first art exhibition in a bookshop in Livadia, when I was around 14 years old. The teachers would say ‘Costakis is talented, but he doesn’t study.’ For me art was a way to escape from study. Even today it is my escape route. As a teenager during the Junta years (the military dictatorship), I had created a rock group and we also had an underground club. The police came and tried to arrest us but we escaped. During those years you reacted under the pressure in Greece.

You had said once that the system destroys creativity. You were referring to the Greek system?

Not just the Greek system, but the system in general. It’s designed to destroy an individual’s creativity. I don’t know if this has been done on purpose or not, or maybe because the importance of introspection and the Platonic concept of knowledge (esoteric knowledge), which you are born with, hasn’t been realized yet. This society sees newborns as members of the workforce that they have to drill. Its aim is to prepare slaves. Luckily some escape (like myself).

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Although today, big companies are searching for creative minds.

Yes, but once upon a time, creativity was a sin! Especially in Greece during the Junta. I experienced this especially. In the end, they had rejected me from all the schools from the prefecture of Livadia, stating that I was ‘a dangerous character’. No school wanted me. I had to go to Athens with my mum, and there, only a private school would take me. I was dyslexic you see, but in those days they didn’t know.

When did you decide you wanted to become an artist?

Basically I was trying to not become an artist – but there was no getting away from it. I went to art school in Rome, but also studied Architecture at Pescara University in order to escape art. I realised how difficult it was to be an artist, and I liked the good life, so I didn’t want that whole hassle. I realised that in art, you dedicate your life – and nothing less. It’s like a woman who’s in love with you and you can’t escape her. If you decide to stay with her, you can’t betray her. Similarly you can’t betray art.

If you do, you will pay for it dearly. You have to be a dedicated soldier. I was around 23 when I finally committed myself heart and soul to art.

How did you arrive at the medium of glass? I don’t know any other artist who has explored it to such an extent.

My use of the material began with the work ‘The Poet’ (1983). I wanted to pay homage to poetic writing, and I began thinking about what the characteristics of a poet are: fragile, explosive, sharp, transparent, suicidal. Then I thought ‘what material is this?

Glass!’. Furthermore, glass intrigued me because it is also a container of space, because of its transparency. By putting one piece on top another it also becomes an architectural building block. We are talking about many tons of glass in my works!

Everyone knows the sculpture ‘The Runner’ (1988), that used to be in Omonia Square but was moved to the traffic island opposite the Hilton. It was originally called ‘The Stranger’. Why change its name?

For me a ‘Stranger’ is also that traveller who finds himself in Omonia, which has for decades been a hub of arrivals and departures. However Greece in 1988 was witnessing social/political change – a more European and progressive spirit was evolving. There was also talk of hosting the Olympic Games. Therefore, the politicians saw it as a ‘Runner’, but the public did too. So I changed its name. But from my point of view a stranger is also a runner – a traveller.

‘The Runner’ as a traveller, also ties in with your interest in the refugee crisis, something which was evident when you took on the project in Otranto, and turned the ship ‘Kateri I Rades’ into an art work.

I had always been observing the refugee situation out of the corner of my eye. The tragedy with this ship that sunk in 1996, led to the drowning of 81 Albanian refugees. Later, in 2010, when here in Greece we were living the country’s destruction, I suddenly got a call from the Prefect of Puglia. “Do you want a ship?” he said to me. After seeing it I realized it was a deathly object, packed with the death of all those people, a gigantic coffin. But I didn’t want to rob it of its historical significance.

At the same time I wanted to give it a new life – as a work of art. The ship’s propeller has been incorporated into a separate work (on show at the National Museum of Contemporary Art at the moment). But I never tried to take advantage of the refugee situation, as some others did, like that bad boy of art Ai Weiwei.

What have you been working on recently?

This year I completed a work in Salerno, at the entrance of the university. Next year, I’m preparing a work in Turin which will be situated in front of Renzo Piano’s skyscraper. I’m also preparing a large exhibition of my work organized by Pescara University.

What’s your opinion on the situation in Greece at the moment?

Greece’s problem isn’t just our fault, although that’s what they’re trying to tell us. It is linked to a more general problem faced by the West, which has been shocked by the centrifugal power of globalization and its failing value system. The cultural status of each EU country was reduced in order to create the European Union: This was originally seen as a way to enable Europe to function as one country. It appeared correct at first, but later proved not to be, because the issue of globalization is not a cultural one, but an economic one.

What about contemporary art?

I believe that art has lost that grandeur it once had – which you find in the paintings of the great masters such as Velasquez, Caravaggio.

They painted scenes loaded with history and meaning, not always pleasant subjects either – deaths, murders etc – but that moment when you see their work, you are awe-struck by it too. We need to make art awesome again. And that’s what I have always strived for in my work.

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You can’t betray art.

If you do, you will pay for it dearly

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City Scope

Where to go La-La in Athens With “La-La-Land” fever sweeping the, well, land, Insider shares our 3 favourite Athens venues where you can take your own delightful journey of musical nostalgia, Greek-style.

And with chilly evenings still upon us, now is the perfect time of year to cocoon yourself in one of these cosy dens, sit back, and escape to the soundtrack of the past, while enjoying a classic cocktail or memorable meal.

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MAGEMENOS AVLOS

If we had a pedigree as glamorous as Magemenos Avlos, we probably wouldn’t change a thing either! Since 1961, this charming neighbourhood staple in the leafy Pangrati environs of Plateia Proskopon, has served as a favorite rendezvous of musicians, poets, actors, politicians and other fascinating folk.

Modern Day fans go for the enticing echoes of yesteryear; the glorious grub (which champions European tastes); and the marvelous musical accompaniment.

When you walk into the spacious main dining room at Magemenos Avlos (the name means “Enchanted Flute” in Greek), it’s like entering a sepia-tinted time capsule from the mid 20th century. Aged newspaper clippings and photographs of some of the restaurant’s famous regulars (like Oscar-winning Greek composer Manos Hatzidakis who cut his teeth there); the moody lighting; and the antique and violin wall fixtures all set the tone. The great food and music will do the rest. Best bites are the parmesan croquettes (Hatzidakis’ favourite apparently), the cheese fondue, and Magemenos Avlos’ famed Piccata, steak in red wine sauce. For all its class, the prices remain surprisingly reasonable too.

Until April this year, Kostas Venetsanos, now in his eighties but still going strong, regales regulars with “Stella” and other punchy anthems from the golden years. In evenings past, you might have heard French-inspired Greek New Wave tunes from the mid-60s. Others, you could be tapping your toes under the table to jazz, blues, or an evocative folk singer.

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Magemenos Avlos

STOA ATHANATON

The name itself (Stoa Athanaton means Arcade of the Immortals) conjures mystery, merriment and nostalgia. Rembetika music – the closest thing Greeks have to Blues - is by its nature, usually a passionate midnight affair. But at the magnificently authentic Stoa Athanaton, tucked away under the arches of the Athens’ Central Meat Market, you can also see Rembetika legends weave their infectious magic during regular afternoon matinee sessions (from 3pm), while you enjoy delicious traditional cuisine with echoes of Asia Minor.

An unmissable stop for those interested in traditional Rembetiko music, this wonderfully atmospheric and iconic club has been running since 1930, and is considered by many to be the capital’s true Temple of Rembetika, rich with nostalgia and celebration for “all things lost”.

Stoa Athanaton’s small dance floor is always packed – and you can just as easily find yourself sitting next to the rich and famous, as a meat vendor, unwinding with a raki or ouzo after a long day’s shift.

Closed during the summer months, we can’t think of many better ways to warm up a dreary winter’s afternoon (or make new friends!).

Phone ahead for matinee times.

CAFÉ AVISSINIA

Just like Magemenos Avlos, this treasured Monastiraki institution is so much more than just a place to go grab a quick meal. In fact, it would be a crime to do anything other than settle in and enjoy the “ride” at either restaurant.

The two share more than a hint of the same aura of faded bohemian elegance too. The family-run Café Avissinia is a narrow bright place, filled with paintings, and decorated just like the French bistros in Porte de Clignancourt, with floral wallpaper, stained glass windows and deliberately mis-matched china. It started out many decades ago as a humble tea room in the heart of the flea market and was established by the charismatic Ketty Koufonikola, a Thessaloniki native, in possession of a sonorous voice and aristocratic figure.

By the 1980s, Avissinia was “the” place to party, with reveling groups of friends arriving in their hordes to “belly dance and do the zeibekiko”, according to Ketty’s son Nikolas, who now runs the show. Gypsy traders and walk-in customers mingled happily next to VIP regulars such as Hadjinassios, Kelaidonis, Dalaras, Plessas and Savvopoulos. Custom-

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ers met and fell in love with their future wives (and return to this day)!

And the beat goes on. On weekends, the square of Avissinia still fills with the sounds of musical merriment emanating from this landmark restaurant (Fridays and Saturday evenings at 9pm1am; and Saturday and Sunday afternoons from 3pm-7pm). Perhaps you’ll hear Manos play his accordion or Pavlina croon away with her heavenly voice.

The delicious dishes that Ketty conceived remain the star of the show too; pork with leeks and prunes, Avissinia-style cheese, eggplants prepared the rembetis’s way, cabbage leaves stuffed with rice, pork and veal minced meat and served with a velvety egg-lemon sauce...We won’t go on!

info Magemenos Avlos Amynta 4, Pagrati, tel: 210.722.3195, open from 12pm-1.30am Stoa Athanaton Sofokleous 19, tel: 210.321.4362 Café Avissinia Kinetou 7, Plateia Avissinias, Monastiraki, tel: 210.321.7047, www.avissinia.gr

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Green Special

Great Green Holidays

The City One

From stylish “urban nature concept” sanctuaries to farm-to-fork adventures, and blissed-out city stays, Greece is getting greener every year. Amanda Dardanis introduces 4 wonderful destinations where you can boost your eco-cred all year round.

RADISSON BLU PARK HOTEL Pedion tou Areos How’s this for bringing the Outside in! The Radisson Blu Park Hotel took as inspiration for its radical recent rebirth, the huge “Field of Mars” park (don’t you love the name) that extends just outside its deluxe doors. The new look is called an “Urban Nature Concept”. And if you book into one of the hotel’s deluxe suites overlooking the park, (pictured), you’ll

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feel like you’re literally staying inside the park itself – with tactile grass effect flooring under your feet and stylishly-rustic wooden surfaces (to rest your green tea on!). But don’t spend all your time chilling in the room or you’ll miss the ultra-glam rooftop restaurant St’Astra with its heaven-sent Acropolis views.

Radisson Blu Park Hotel Athens, Leof. Alexandras 10, tel: 210.889.4500, www.radissonblu.com. Standard rooms in February start from €100 a night, junior suites are €190 (with breakfast included).

The Athens Riviera One

Travel

THE MARGI & MARGI FARM Vouliagmeni Sitting pretty on the south-western foot of the Hymettus mountain range, deluxe Vouliagmeni - with its palm tree-lined boulevards and marinas - is to Athens what Cannes is to the Cote d’Azur.

And for years, the elegant Margi hotel has been one of our very favourite Vouliagmeni boltholes, thanks to its ravishing pool area and chic, inviting interior. Now, there’s another great reason to head to the Margi: their outstanding Margi Farm, which was launched by owner Maria Stavridis’ and her son Giagkos Agiostratitis in 2015, as a means of supplying the 5-star boutique hotel with much of its own home-grown produce – and to also serve as a model farm advocate.

Margi Farm is a beautiful 20 acre parcel of land, surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, in Kalyvia, Attica, where hotel guests and ecominded members of the public can participate year-round in the popular Farm to Fork experiences.

Enjoy a guided walk in the organic garden where, depending on the season, you’ll have the opportunity to harvest vegetables; and participate in live-cooking demonstrations and tastings with the Margi’s chef. Children will love the “Little Farmers” activities such as feeding the animals, building a scarecrow, picking and planting vegetables, and meeting Billy the Rescue Donkey.

Each Thursday, the farm hosts an authentic, organic Greek Farm Dinner (based around the “locavore” principles of local vegetables in season). It’s a simply wonderful journey of food and wine, accompanied by live Bouzouki music.

Margi Farm dinners are held every Thursday between 6-10pm and are priced at €79 for adults and €39.30 for children (2-12 years). This includes transfers from the hotel, dinner and entertainment. To book, visit: margifarm.gr

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The Hands-on One EUMELIA FARM & GUESTHOUSE Laconia

The Brand New One OLIVE GREEN HOTEL Heraklion, Crete Let’s be frank, Heraklion probably isn’t the first place to spring to mind if you were looking to find an eco-oasis in Crete. What with all the constant to-ing-and-fro-ing of ships, ferries and aeroplanes, Crete’s sprawling commercial hub is often seen more as a place to visit, than stay.

But the arrival of the Olive Green Hotel, just a few short months ago, has been a game changer. Conscientiously clean, this ecological newcomer combines high-tech luxury with a bright and airy contemporary design, and has already made quite the name for itself on the local city hotel landscape.

Solar panels, water management systems, green building practices, usage of environmentally friendly materials and employee engagement, are the key pylons of Olive Green’s eco-kudos.

Greenery features prominently throughout the hotel, while the interior palette of wood, metal and concrete is minimal yet cheerful. Once inside your room, everything is controlled through a tablet: heating, lighting, even the “do not disturb” sign. It’s a clever touch.

Reasonable rates (starting from around €70 a night) reflect the fact that Olive Green lacks some resort facilities such as a pool, gym or spa. But if you are in the market for a tranquil base in the heart of Heraklion, (that’s easy walking distance from bars, restaurants, shopping, and cultural attractions such as the Heraklion Archeological Museum), this is the one for you.

Olive Green Hotel, Idomeneos 22, rooms from about €70-100 per room per night, tel: 281.030.2900, www.olive greenhotel.com

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There are few better ways to bond with Greece and her timeless traditions than on an authentic agri-tourism adventure.

Eumelia Farm & Guesthouse, in the Peloponnese’s stunning Laconia region, is one of the most progressive organic eco-farms in this country.

Your habitat will be an ancient olive grove and herb fields, near the village of Gouves, that’s been cultivated by the one family since the 1890s. Built in the traditional Greek farmhouse architecture, but with modern comforts, each dwelling has its own private garden and a large veranda with wonderfully-relaxing views over the farm and the surrounding mountain ranges of Parnonas and Taygetos. The buildings are heated and cooled with geothermal power, using heat pumps to minimize the use of petroleum or electricity (while the farm’s natural waste management system, based on the root system, was the first of its kind in southern Greece).

Feed your spirit in pursuit of traditional Greek farming activities such as olive harvests, almond picking, organic wine production and wine-tastings, herbal soap making and seasonal cooking, while you sample the unspoiled glories of the Mediterranean landscape. The farm-to-table philosophy extends beyond the kitchens here to the e-shops run by Eumelia – buy on site or order the produce online.

Eumelia makes a superb base from which to explore the Peloponnese’s spellbinding sights -from ancient Sparta and rugged Mani, to Byzantine Mystra and the medieval castle town of Monemvasia – as well as from which to embark on any number of eco-tourism pursuits such as mountain biking, hiking or canoe/kayaking.

Eumelia Farm & Guesthouse (Gouves, Laconia, tel: 694.715.1400, www. eumelia.com) is open all year-round. Their popular olive harvest packages are in November and December. Guesthouses are €100 per night (for 2 persons sharing); or €120 for family guesthouses with up to 2 children (€30 each extra person).

Special Promotion

Love Will Fill the City Nothing says love like sharing great food with your significant other, so show your adoration at Hilton Athens’ finest restaurants with their indulgent Valentine’s Day dinner specials.

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he Valentine’s Day Gala is designed to seduce your palate and ignite romance but just the magical view from the Galaxy Bar is enough to make you fall in love with your city all over again. That view, combined with Galaxy’s flattering lighting and its love-inspired décor, sets the stage for romance.

Once you’ve soaked in the ambience (the Galaxy Bar consistently features among the world’s preferred watering holes) settle for a drink -either complex and deep or light and flirty, a little like your relationship, to set off the right tone for the beginning of a beautiful evening.

Get off to a passionate start with the time-tested formula of working ones way to your loved one’s heart via the stomach. The menu here is sensuously created to amp up the love. Start with perfectly seared scallops, enhanced by the subtlest suggestion of black truffle, reset your tastebuds with champagne sorbet, then rekindle the ardour with a main course of either a beef fillet or opt for the lighter grouper fillet with mussels. If things are going really well, seal the deal with a rich and decadent dark chocolate ganache bar topped with vanilla and lychee crème. What’s not to love?

Galaxy Bar & R 6 cours estaura e menu nt for €89 per pers Free pa on rking B y Β z a n tino Buffet d inner fo r €58 p er perso Free pa n rkin Hiltonia g Spa Gift pac kage fro m €100 Overnig ht stay from €1 for a do 49 uble with bre room akfast

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Follow the

Fine-tuning one’s senses in a place that symbolises Life The white limestone rocks on the bed of the river give it a surreal shade of aquamarine and the aura here is unmistakably supernatural.

This is where Orpheus, distraught by the death of his beloved wife Eurydice, played his lyre with such sorrow, that it moved Hades and Persephone into giving him a second chance to win back Eurydice from the Kingdom of Silence.

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Travel

mythic love trail Costis Drimtzias captures the pristine beauty of the Acheron river, whose rugged beauty is as rich as the history that runs beneath its pebbled beds. A river that straddles the banks of Life and Death, where Orpheus tried to woo Eurydice back to life, where Hades and Persephone ruled, and not far from where Ulysseus set off on his odyssey.

Follow Persephone to the Gates of Hades on a 6 hour trek along the riverbanks from Glyki to the village of Serziana

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Homer describes the mythical river extensively in the Iliad. Odysseus crossed the Acheron starting from the Ulysses Bay in Ammoudia on the Ionian Coast, to the Netherworld to enquire about his trip back to Ithaca.

Getting there: 430 kms from Athens, 350 kms from Thessaloniki by the highway Egnatia When: From late March to early October Where to stay: to the villages of Glyki or Amoudia, from where departs the delta of the Acheron What to see: Waterfalls, verdant nature, flora and fauna, mythological sites, charming, historical villages of Souli, Parga and Preveza, the oracle of Acheron and the Ancient Theatre of Dodoni What to do: Rafting, kayaking and canoeing at Stena, horse-riding at Piyes, paragliding at Paramythia, mountain-biking along the river, swimming in the river and scuba-diving in Ammoudia

Horse-riding into the Gate of Hades

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Travel

Converse with the dead at Nekromanteio, just 3 kmns from Ammoudia. This is where mortals could converse with the departed after performing a ritual catharsis.

Picnicking under the shade of centuries-old plane trees

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Green Special

Life Insider takes a tour of some of the city’s finest ‘lungs’ that provide balm to the eye and soul, as well as a great year-round stage for jogging, biking and lazy weekend picnics.

Tatoi estate

THE STAVROS NIARCHOS PARK Athens’ newest green space enchants all who visit it. Since it opened mid-2016, SNFCC has quickly become a must-see for all visitors to the capital. It’s also been enthusiastically embraced by the citizens of Athens, who have taken great pride in the cultural complex’s cutting edge design and 5 star green credentials.

This lush garden landscape was designed to be a respite from the capital’s concrete contours. It sports canals, interactive fountains, creative playgrounds (including a circular labyrinth), lines of olive and pine trees – and many people’s favourite feature – a Great Lawn, which actually sits atop the Library and Opera House, making the hill the green roof for the structure. One of the largest in Europe, the green roof significantly reduces air conditioning requirements. The summit offers spectacular 360-degree views of the sea to the west, the Acropolis to the east, and the cultural and educational park below, as well as of the Agora, the central plaza between the Library and the Opera House. Bursting with community spirit, the Great Lawn hosts a full monthly programme of mostly free outdoor events such as yoga workshops, musical concerts, theatre performances and classic cinema screenings.

i Park facts

Location: 364 Leoforos Syngrou.

Size: At 17 hectares, the Stavros Niarchos Park covers 85% of the SNFCC site.

Flora: Greece’s strong horticultural tradition is celebrated in the open, sunlit Mediterranean Garden. The plant palette alone makes the garden a destination: evergreen and other endemic plants such as boxwood, coronilla, cistus, and lentisc, salvia, oregano, thyme, lavender, rosemary, roses and euphorbias – all add to the sensual pleasure of a visit..

Admission: Free.

Open: Winter opening hours (1/11 - 31/03): Monday - Sunday 06:00 to 20:00. Running track: Monday - Sunday 06:00 to 00.00.

Access: Shuttle from Syngrou-Fix Metro Station every 30 minutes.

38 insider athens | February 2017

The Stavros Niarchos Park

TATOI ESTATE Going to the Tatoi estate is like an excursion: it feels far away from Athens, yet it’s only 10 minutes from Kifissia. It’s a great open space to bike for about an hour and discover the estate, which is beautiful in a feral, natural way. The path winds right up to the impressive graves where one can read the history of the last two centuries in Greece engraved in stone. Tatoi Estate offers a fabulous escape into the wild.

Do bring your bicycle or running gear to try out the trails (plus refreshments if you need them, as there are no shops in the vicinity).

i Park facts

Size: 3,000 hectares Location: Approximately 25km from central Athens, in the foothills of Mount Parnitha Flora: More than 1,000 plant species are recorded in the National Park of Parnitha, which includes the Tatoi estate. Many are endemic, and some critically endangered, such as white peonies, red lilies and red tulips Fauna: Parnitha is home to over 130 bird species (including hawks, woodpeckers, kestrels and short-toed eagles), 30 reptile species, and 45 mammal types including hares, foxes and the sole red deer population in southern Greece Past: Developed in the late 19th century as the Greek royal family’s country estate, it was abandoned when the royal family fled the junta. In 2002 the Greek state paid compensation to King Constantine to ensure full rights to the estate Present: The state has set aside the sum of 800,000 euros in the 2009 budget for renovation, with the aim of opening the palace as a museum in 2012 Open: There is no gate or fence, so visitors can visit at any time Access: By car. Take the Varimbombi turn off the National Road north of Kifissia.

insider athens | February 2017 39

National Gardens

NATIONAL GARDENS The incredible woodland canopy provided by the mature trees in the National Gardens still amazes the average passer-by. It is one of the most positive things about Greece’s first organised modern gardens, set out by Queen Amalia in the early-19th Century.

Queen Amalia’s original plan incorporated many exotics sourced and planted by her German gardener Friedrich Schmidt. The magnificent South American Phytolacca tree near the Botanical Museum dates right back to Amalia’s day. Modern plantings have often followed this example –the 40-year-old Ceiba indica, a spreading deciduous tree from India, is believed to exist nowhere else in this country.

“

“It is the quintessence of a park, the thing one feels sometimes in looking at a canvas or dreaming of a place one would like to be in and never finds.”

40 insider athens | February 2017

Henry Miller, 1939

i Park facts

Size: 15.8 hectares Location: Behind the Parliament, flanked by Vas Amalias, Sofias, Olgas and Irodou Attikou Facilities: Open-air cafe, children’s library and playground, botanical museum, running tracks Flora: Original plantings included Gingkobiloba from China and Californian Sequoia, natives like Holm Oaks, carob, Judas and mastic trees. Between 2006 and 2008, 700 indigenous trees, 1,750 bushes (including 300 rosebushes) and 1,300 groundcover species were planted Fauna: Birdlife includes hoopoes, parrots, sparrows, blackbirds and crows. A small zoo features donkeys, chickens, geese, ducks, rabbits and wild goats. The gardens are home to tortoises, abandoned cats and terrapins, as well as packs of dogs neutered and released by the municipality. The estimated 10 percent of dumped felines that survive the dogs are fed and neutered by www.ninelivesgreece.com Past: Designed by Amalia, first queen of Greece, the Royal Gardens were constructed between 1838 and 1840. Renamed the National Gardens after the monarchy was abolished in 1974 Open: Sunrise to sunset daily (except during demonstrations and public holidays) Access: By metro, bus or tram, the gardens are just a stone’s throw from Syntagma Square.

City Life

SYNGROU ESTATE Syngrou Estate is a paradise in Attica. It is a place of amazing beauty, where you can find rare plants - even wild orchids in December. And the people who visit respect this park. Syngrou Estate is clean, devoid of rubbish and free of drug addicts even though it is accessible day and night through small entrances in the perimeter fence. The only problem is that from time to time the municipality comes out with plans to build in the park. Luckily, so far these efforts have been stymied by the Friends of Syngrou Forest. Also, it is a shame that the fabulous buildings inside the estate are suffering from neglect. Thankfully, the neo-Gothic church of Agios Andreas has been restored, but the Ernst Ziller mansion has seen better days.

i Park facts

Size: 97 hectares Location: Off Kifissias Avenue, Maroussi Facilities: Numerous tracks for running, walking, rollerblading or cycling, including a 6km perimeter trail. Also a football pitch and playground facilities for children Planting: Mainly Aleppo pines and cypress trees; also meadows and olive/fruit orchards Past: Syngrou Estate was owned by banker and philanthropist Andreas Syngros (1830-1899) and bequeathed to the Greek public

by Iphigenia Syngrou in the 1920s for the training of gardeners and agronomists Present: It is under the auspices of the Municipality of Maroussi, but cared for by volunteer groups the Friends of Syngrou Forest (www. dasosygrou.gr) and Kontra Ston Kairo, who carry out fire-prevention, planting and litter clean-ups Open: Main gate open from dawn until sundown daily.

NEA SMYRNI Nea Smyrni park is a peaceful oasis in a densely populated suburb.

Though accessible, it has retained a neighbourhood quality that makes it all the more charming. It has many facilities, including play equipment for children, a giant chessboard, jogging lane and summer theatre (where the Karaghiozis Shadow puppet festival is held in May and Ionian cultural events in September). The park is child-friendly with frequent free play activities for children such as tag and bowling organized by the local municipality, as well as a notice board displaying special community fitness events at the park.

i Park facts Size: 5 hectares Location: Bordered by Eleftheriou Venizelou, Efessou, Kordeliou and Patriarhou Ioakim streets Facilities: Playground, jogging track, snack-shop, open-air 2,500-seat cinema, stage, WCs and giant chess set.

The revamp: Remodelled between March 2006 and June 2007. Work included tree planting, lawn-laying, building stone walls, shrub-cutting and resurfacing.

Water consumption: The park’s lawns are watered once daily with water from bore holes.

Open: In summer, the gates are open 6am-11pm (the park is spotlit) and in winter 6am-9pm.

Nea Smyrni

insider athens | February 2017 41

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Interview

The Athenian Master of Crime Petros Markaris, Greece’s answer to John Le Carré, was born in Istanbul, of an Armenian father and a Greek mother. A polyglot who started in literature translating Goethe and Brecht, his vocation was always to become a writer. He began by writing plays, then lent his pen to the cinema and the television for which he composed his first police intrigues. What he did next has earned him enduring fame: A series of novels featuring the now famous Commissioner Charitos, in which he describes Greek society with a sharp look – but also with a lot of warmth and humor. Insider catches up with the great mastermind of Hellenic homicide.

YOU AND ISTANBUL You grew up in Istanbul and arrived in Greece aged about thirty. Are you concerned about the current events in Turkey, particularly with regard to freedom of the press?

Democracy, human rights and freedom of the press are a sad and old story in Turkey. There are, however, two notable differences with the past. The first is a feeling of disillusionment. Turkey has lived for decades under a military dictatorship. All the parties of government had to yield at one time or another to the wishes of the army. The press was not better treated. Things started to change with the rise of the current ruling party, the AKP, when Recep Erdogan became prime minister. He began to restrict the privileges of the army and its intervention in politics.

This fueled the hopes of the people who believed that the country was finally on the road to institutional democracy. But then came disillusionment. Erdogan’s objective was to reduce the military power to impose its own system and take absolute control of the country. That is what is happening now. The second difference is the fate of the people of Anatolia. This vast majority had been neglected by previous governments. Erdogan gave them the floor and they are now part of his loyal

supporters. The freedom of the press is of little importance to them.

Another difference is that in my time any dissident was cataloged as a communist. Today every dissident is seen as a terrorist.

You write in Greek, German, Turkish and fluently speak French and English. Is this a result of your Stambouliote education?

Yes, in the sense that growing up in the Greek, Armenian and Jewish minorities of Istanbul has always been accompanied by a sense of insecurity. The parents were never certain that their sons and daughters could continue to live in Istanbul, or they would not be forced to emigrate to another country.

You mentioned not feeling real belonging to any of these countries.

Is this sense of a lack of defined national identity the cause of political extremism seen in Europe today?

I grew up in a country obsessed with nationalist extremism. As a child of a minority I never felt a sense of belonging to Turkey because of this Turkish nationalist extremism. I have been living in Greece for over fifty years, but I was not born in Greece. My links with Greece are the ties of the language, since I am a Greek writer but I have no shared

insider athens | February 2017 45

history with post-war Greece since I was born in Istanbul. On the other hand, I think that the reason for the extremism we see in Europe today is the renewal of nationalism in almost all European countries, which I find disturbing and disturbing. If there is one thing I despise in life, it is nationalism.

YOUR WRITING STYLE You have been writing for several decades. Are you a disciplined writer or do you go through ups and downs?

I will give two tips to young writers. First, learn to love their loneliness, because the writer at work is a single person, like a painter. It is not like theater or cinema that are teamwork. Next, establish a routine of their daily work. No one forces a writer to sit and write, so he must learn self-discipline and this can only be done with strict work schedules. I have a very specific program. I start every morning at 9 am with reading the newspapers. At ten o’clock, I began to write and work until 2 o’clock. I then take a break to rest and continue reading the press. I then start again at 4:30 pm and work until 20:30.

Have you ever experienced the anguish of the blank page?

Of course, this happens to me every time I work on a novel. This happens to all writers. But I do not change my program. I never leave my chair in front of the computer. It is an illusion to think that a walk or meeting friends for a coffee will solve the problem of breakdown. In any case, it does not work for me.

Your main characters, Inspector Charitos and his wife Adriani, have acquired a large number of fans around the world. Are they inspired by personalities of your own life? Will Inspector Charitos retire soon?

There are two ways to build a character. You try to imagine the character you need for your story or you rely on someone you know. I almost always use the second solution. Adriani, the wife of Charitos, is the portrait of my mother. Katerina, their daughter, has many common traits with my own daughter. And no, Inspector Charitos is not about to retire. I do not know when that will happen.

You have just celebrated your 80th birthday (January 1, 2017). Has your writing style changed with age?

I started writing novels at the age of 58. And all this time, I made translations from German into Greek. I even translated the two parts of Goethe’s “Faust”. What was important to me was not the change in

46 insider athens | February 2017

style but to move from one genre to another and to learn by working these different genres. For example, I never have a complete story when I start a novel. I discover the story from one chapter to another.

But for starters I need an image. This comes from my experience as a screenwriter because the directors always want to establish the first image of their film. If you read my novels carefully you will find that my chapters are not chapters in the literary sense of the term but sequence plans. It is a technique that I adopted during my collaboration with the director Theo Angelopoulos.

APROPOS OF THE CRISIS IN GREECE Your books have evolved from a purely policing genre to the immediate socio-political context your characters are experiencing. Has this shift been deliberate?

My generation has been obsessed with politics. Our thoughts and writings have always been politically motivated. I use the detective novel as a pretext to write about the social and political problems of Greece.

However, this is not new. Many writers of the nineteenth century did the same. They used a police story as a pretext to talk about the social reality and the social problems of their time. Dickens, Dostoevsky, Hugo, Balzac and Zola are examples.

How were your books received, for example, in Germany at the height of the crisis? Did they help explain the Greek crisis with another perspective, beyond the headlines of the newspapers?

Since the publication of my first novel on the crisis, my public appearances and discussions with readers have always focused on the Greek crisis, not only in Germany but also in other European countries. The positive aspect is that I talk less about politics but more about people, how the Greeks experience the crisis in their daily lives and how their difficulties are increasing day by day. This is clearer in Southern Europe. The public in southern Europe is more interested in the head of the family than in the police officer Charitos, because the family plays a more important role in these countries.

After the trilogy on the crisis and your latest post-crisis novel, “Offshore”, on the massive new money in Greece, what can we expect for the future?

There are still many interesting stories to tell. I will start a new novel in January. It will still be a story about the crisis, but about a completely different crisis.

Humour

When Trump Met Tsipras t’s the By the way, wha ho’s name Greek head honc Chiprat?

– something like

I

t’s going to have to happen eventually. Donald Trump at some point will meet Alexis Tsipras. It probably won’t be for a while, at least after the deadline for this issue. But since we here at Insider tend to be an impatient lot (living in Athens, you see), we have dreamed up the following scenario:

(It’s near midnight at an airport somewhere on the globe. President Trump’s Air Force One trundles to a halt for refuelling. Trump squints out of a window and notices a tiddly French-built executive jet with “Hellenic Republic” emblazoned on the side resting on the tarmac.)

TRUMP: Hey, Reince, come here. What the heck’s the Hellenic Republic? Get me a map of Africa.

PRIEBUS (following the president’s gaze): Oh, that’s the Greek prime ministerial plane, Mr President. Their prime minister is on his way back from a state visit to Elbonia.

TRUMP (grumpily): Greek, huh? Well, why the heck don’t they say so?

PRIEBUS: A long story, Mr President. You see, way back in the Trojan War, one of the Greek tribes was called the Hellenes, and before long that name came to signify— TRUMP (holding up a hand): Reince, baby, no more economic analysis for today. You’re starting to sound like Paul Krugman again. I hate Paul Krugman. By the way, what’s the Greek head honcho’s name – something like Chiprat?

PRIEBUS: Tsipras, sir. Alexis Tsipras.

TRUMP: Alexis – that’s a friggin’ girl’s name. What’s he doin’ with a friggin’ girl’s name? He’s – he’s not one of them gays, is he?

PRIEBUS: Not to my knowledge, Mr President.

TRUMP: Well, we’ve got an hour till we refuel, so send an aide to invite him over for a grape juice.

(Alexis Tsipras is presently shown aboard Air Force One and gazes about him in wonder, especially at the gold curtains.)

TSIPRAS (wondering): I love your curtains, Mr President. You mean they’re real gold?

TRUMP (with an alarmed sideways glance at Reince Priebus standing respectfully by): Y’know, if I wanted, I could have ‘em in real gold, heck, I’m rich enough. But could you imagine the reaction from the Demorats?

TSIPRAS (ignoring frantic warning signs from Priebus): You mean the Democrats, Mr President?

TRUMP: No, I mean Demo-rats. In fact – hey, Reince, do you think we could amend the Constitution to ban the Democratic party.

TSIPRAS (as if from a rehearsed text): Mr President. I am optimist that the im-ple-ment-ation of the European solidarity of peoples is the correct road to re-a-lizing the fulfilment of the debt crisis for the European solidarity of peoples that are threatened by global capitalism. I hope so.

TRUMP (beckoning Priebus to his side and whispering): Hey, Reince, you’re part Greek, aren’t you? What’s with this dude?

PRIEBUS (whispering back): Hey, don’t look at me. My mom was from

John Carr imagines a Brief Encounter between our Greek Prime Minister and the newly-installed Leader of the Free World.

Lesbos. Tsipras is from some one-donkey mountain village out near Albania.

TSIPRAS (still talking): And I would like to take this op-por-tu-nity to remind the Mister President that in order to implement the solidarity of the European peoples, the party of Syriza— TRUMP (holding up his hand for silence): Okay, okay, I see where you’re coming from. Look here, Chiprat, I have a good instinct about you. You look dumb, but you’re really smart. Like me. That’s a good negotiating tactic. You know, I’ve hired people like you as janitors at Trump Tower and now they’re running corporations.

TSIPRAS: Cooperation, Mr President? Yes, I am optimist the Greek people desire full cooperation with the peace-loving peoples of the USA. I hope so.

TRUMP: Here’s a copy of my book “The Art of the Deal.” If you read it from cover to cover, whatever you do, you’ll get top marks!

TSIPRAS: Marx? Of course, Mr President. I am honoured to meet an authority on Marx.

TRUMP: Money! That’s what it’s all about. And when they issue the 1,000 dollar note, you can bet your sweet bunny slippers my face’ll be on ‘em!

TSIPRAS: Bunny slippers, Mr President? What means that?

TRUMP (shaking his head as Priebus buries his face in his hands): Never mind. Look, I’ve got a question I’ve always meant to ask you.

When you won that referendum in the summer of ’15, why did you chicken out of it?

TSIPRAS: Tsiken, Mr President? Oh, yes, I would prefer tsiken instead of meat when you invite me to the White House. (Priebus puts his hands over his crotch and rushes off.)

(An officer enters and announces that the Hellenic Republic plane is ready to take off. Tsipras rises.)

TSIPRAS: That is a nice tie, Mr President, I wish I had one.

(Trump looks down at the naked Hawaiian bimbo on his tie, which he takes off and gives to Tsipras. Yep, this Greek guy has promise.

Minutes later, Tsipras waves to Air Force One as he takes off. He’s smiling to himself, looking forward to the hour when the Greek media trumpet the meeting and Kyriakos Mitsotakis runs from the Parliament hall in tears, stamping the floor. Then, with no-one looking, he tries on Trump’s tie.)

That is a nice tie, Mr President, I wish I had one.

insider athens | February 2017 47

Time

Aeolou 1pm 48 insider athens | February 2017

Lapse

Aeolou 10pm Photos by Angelos Giotopoulos

insider athens | February 2017 49

Less is More

50 insider athens | February 2017

Gastronomy

With brunch offerings popping up all over the city, we’ve all become that much harder to impress these days. AthensWas delivers the extra ingredients to win Amanda Dardanis over.

P

ersonally, I’m not a huge fan of breakfast buffets. Give me a well thought-out and well-executed à la carte menu any day (although my kids would absolutely beg to differ, particularly when it comes to never-ending pancakes and bacon!). Buffets always seem like a good idea at the time. Especially when you arrive starving at midday, having strategically skipped your regular 8am bowl of granola.

But somehow the frenzy to try everything (because “it’s there”), or to eat “one’s money’s worth”, always leaves me feeling over-stuffed for the rest of the day and wishing I’d limited myself to just those tastes I’d genuinely been craving. I’m all about the “single-tasking” these days.

Enjoying what’s on the plate in front of me, and not always dwelling on “what’s next” (to prolong the metaphor!).

That’s one of the reasons why the new premium brunch service at the AthensWas art hotel, in the lively Dionysiou Areopagitou strip, won me over. Unlike many luxury design hotels of the same cut, there’s no buffet. Simply an enticing menu, loaded up with a heap of classic brekkie staples: Perky pancakes with blueberries and bacon; comfort porridge (sweetened with coconut flakes); lovely fresh scones (a very rare find in Athens indeed!); and of course, a kicking eggs benedict (the true test of any brunch purveyor).

They’ve offset these with a few more razzle-dazzle options for the big-impact brunch: caramel toffee cake with whipped cream and

lime; slow-cooked lasagna (per-fect food therapy for that challenging “Morning After”); and squid brioche with salmon, egg and avocado.

The prices were very democratic too. Most of the above meals came in at a very reasonable, in our opinion, €7-8, (the roasted lamb, at €22, is the most expensive dish on the menu).

Meanwhile, there can be little doubt that the dramatic view from the elegant 7th floor MODERN rooftop dining space is in the million dollar range, with its lofty Acropolis “wallpaper” and sweeping city panorama.

(You can also choose to eat at the breezy ground floor Moderne Brasserie from 11am-4pm).

Either way, I highly recommend you elevate your brunch idyll further with one of their pitch-perfect Athens Was weekender cocktails: a Cucumber Martini; a Sub now serves its Americano (with rum, Campari, red vermouth Premium Brunch and bitters; or our favourite, the well-named on Saturdays and “Sunday”, a perky mix made with gin, aperol, ginSundays. ger and cucumber.

Located right near the Acropolis Museum, AthFind them at ensWas makes the perfect starting point (or end Dionysiou point for that matter!) for all your Thiseio wanAreopagitou 5, derings. And is currently, I believe, one of the very tel: 210.924.9954, best Winter Brunch options around. athenswas.gr

info

insider athens | February 2017 51

Pancake Paradise in Athens!

Seriously cold weather calls for serious comfort food. Amanda Dardanis visits Greece’s first high temple to pancakes, Melinikon, to see how it stacks up.

P

ancakes. As a foreigner living in Greece, they used to be one of those things you just had to make your peace with waving goodbye to (along with bagels, English-style muffins and IKEA being open on Sundays). What with year-round sunshine and the liberated lifestyle, it wasn’t such a bad trade-off.

But bit-by-bit, as the Brunch Invasion gathered pace, pancakes started to pop up more and more on Athenian menus.

Then, we got wind of a magical place where pancakes ruled the land.

A whole eaterie devoted entirely to the humble hotcake. Surely it was too good to be true?

Praise the Gods, it wasn’t. Melinikon - The Greek Pancake House (and Athens’ first pancake house), was founded by Greek native Fotis Kokosioulis on Kolonaki’s stylish Skoufa street in 2014. Kokosioulis had lived in New York for 13 years and wanted to transport his great passion for New York-style pancakes to the Greek capital.

We went to investigate this pancake Mecca with great excitement, along with a dozen other pancake devotees (both young and old), on a recent Sunday morning.

Tucked away in a cosy, two-storey hutch, Melinikon is a transformed industrial space with a friendly village vibe created by low-slung pallet sofas, communal benches, exposed brick and black cyclone fencing.

It’s immediately clear that Kokosioulis has also imported the American concept of “super-choice”: there’s an almost paralyzing array of hotcake options to decide from.

First, you choose your dough: regular (wheat flour); wholemeal; vanilla; chocolate; or choc-chip.

Next you choose your topping. And that’s when things start to get a bit more challenging.

Do you go entirely purist sweet tooth? If so, there are at least 17 “Serving Suggestions” - ranging from the Classic American (vanilla pancakes with butter and maple syrup); to Pavlova Pancake; Crème Caramele Pancake; Apple Pie Pancake; Profiterole Pancake; Banoffee Pancake;

Golden Cookie Pancake – and our table’s runaway favourite: the Red Velvet Pancake (2 Red Velvet Pancakes with cream cheese, white praline chocolate, strawberries, crunchy merengue and icing sugar).

Or do you vote in the Savoury Camp and choose from tasty toppings such as the Hot Dog Pancake (with sausages, caramelized onions, ketchup, mustard, coleslaw and french fries); Chicken-Roka-Parmesan Pancake; Melinikon Pizza; Club Sandwich; or Brunch Pancake?

(The Brunch Pancake - a single pancake with fried egg, frankfurter sausages, bacon, edam, caramelized onions and bbq sauce - scored the highest with our gang.)

Or perhaps you should ditch the menu completely and go Free-Style.

Concoct your own perfect creation from a lengthy list of possibilities that includes a whole section alone on Syrups and Homemade toppings: (sour cherry, caramel, Greek honey, maple; butterscotch sauce; vanilla pastry cream; praline; coconut; seasonal fruits, soft cheese); alongside equally tempting savoury and salad embellishments.

Do learn from our experience though: While the Oreo Therapy Pancake is pure kiddie catnip, it’s way too rich for one child and can easily be shared between 4. Adult share platters such as the Brunch Platter or Classic American for 2 are also a sensible option for those whose eyes are routinely bigger than their stomachs.

The only disappointing note on the menu was the Salmon Pancake.

There simply wasn’t enough smoked salmon and the lemon sauce and cream cheese combination didn’t quite gel for us.

The service is good-hearted, if a little impractical. There are only a small number of working hot plates, so big group orders such as ours can take a long time to deliver from start to finish, which means you’ll be eating out of sync (although to be fair, our waitress did warn us!).

On the plus side, the pancakes are all griddled in full sight of diners, so at least you know they are not just whipping them out of the freezer!

We definitely recommend booking a table on weekends when Melinikon is very popular with the Kolonaki Set.

info Melinikon, The Greek Pancake House, is open from 8am Monday-Friday and from 9.30am on Saturdays and Sundays,

52 insider athens | February 2017

Skoufa 37, tel: 211.409.1430, www.melinikonpancakes.gr

Insider guide restaurant index by type

refer to corresponding area for more information and contact details

AMERICAN

TGI FRIDAY’S The Burger Joint The Burger Joint

Kolonaki Glyfada Psychico

BAR - RESTAURANTS

21 Restaurant Kifissia 360 Cocktail Bar Monistiraki 42 bar Syntagma 48 Urban Garden Mavili Sq 9 Syntagma A for Athens Monistiraki Abariza Syntagma Abaroriza Pangrati Acropolis Museum Acropolis Restaurant Apsendi Halandri BABA AU RUM Syntagma BACARO Omonia BALTHAZAR Mavili Sq BARAONDA Mavili Sq Barley Cargo Syntagma Beer Time Psyrri Bios Gazi Booze Cooperativa Psyrri Café Zoe Syngrou CASH Kifissia CINCO Kolonaki Couleur Locale Monistiraki CV Bar Keramikos Drunk Sinatra Syntagma En Plo Vouliagmeni Explorer’s Lounge Syntagma Gazarte Gazi HIDE & SEEK Halandri HOLY SPIRIT Glyfada Hoxton Bar Gazi ISLAND Vouliagmeni KITCHEN BAR Faliro MoMix Gazi NIXON Kerameikos NoËl Plaka OSTERMAN Syntagma PARKO ELEFTHERIAS Mavili Sq PIXI Gazi SEMIRAMIS RESTAURANT Kifissia SHOWROOM Kolonaki Socialista Gazi Sofa Bar Vouliagmeni Spollati Monastiraki Step by step Halandri Stinking Bishops Kolonaki The Clumsies Plaka THE GIN JOINT Syntagma Throubi Plaka Toy Café Plaka Underdog Thiseio

BEER RESTAURANTS

Silly Wizards

Ag. Paraskevi

CHINESE

China’s Fantasy Psychico Golden Phoenix Kifissia Keep Woking Glyfada Nama Ag. Paraskevi Noodle Bar Syntagma NUI Kifissia Saipan Halandri Wagamama Maroussi

FISH

Ai Nikolas Syngrou CAPTAIN JOHN’S Piraeus DOURAMpEIS Piraeus Dourampeis Oyster Psychiko

Fish Co. Platters Psychico ITHAKI Vouliagmeni KOLLIAS Piraeus JIMMY AND THE FISH Piraeus KASTELORIZO Kifissia MILOS Hilton MYTHOS OF THE SEA Vouliagmeni Nikolas tis schinousas Glyfada Nisson Gi Ag. Paraskevi Ocean Basket Glyfada PAPADAKIS Kolonaki Papaioannou Pireaus Piperia Psychico PSARAKI Vouliagmeni RAFALE Vouliagmeni Sardelaki Glyfada THALATTA Gazi ZEFYROS Piraeus Trata Omonia TRATA O STELIOS Pangrati VASSILENAS Piraeus

FRENCH

ARTISANAL Kifissia avenue Syngrou Blue Pine Kifissia Gaspar Food and Mood Psychico L’ABREUVOIR Kolonaki LE PETIT SOMMELIER Faliro MONO WINE RESTAURANT Plaka SPIROS & VASILIS Kolonaki SPONDI Pangrati Tartare Glyfada

GOURMET

ALERIA Kerameikos Aneton Maroussi AVENUE Syngrou Bo Botrini’s Halandri CTC Hilton Fuga Mavili Sq Funky Gourmet Kerameikos WHYTRA Syngrou KOOL LIFE Kifissia KUZINA Thissio MODERN Acropolis Museum of Greek Gastronomy Psyrri Orizontes Lycavyttou Kolonaki Pasaji Syntagma Polly Maggoo Metaxurgeio PremiEre Syngrou VAROULKO Piraeus

GREEK

2 MAZI Plaka 310 Street Psychico ANETON Maroussi Archeon Gefsis Metaxurgeio ATHIRI Kerameikos ATRIUM Acropolis Berdema Kifissia Bluefield Burger Psychico Dioskouroi Psychico DIPORTO Psyrri ELAIαS GI Kifissia Feedέλ Urban Gastronomy Syntagma IDEAL Omonia KAVOURAS Exarhia Krithamos Psychico MANI MANI Acropolis MELILOTOS Monastiraki Olive Garden Monastiraki Pallas Athena Monastiraki

PSOMI & ALATI Halandri RAKOKAZANO Halandri PROSOPA Gazi Rena tis Ftelias Psychico THIO TRAGI Petralona TO KOUTI Monastiraki YANTES Exarhia YDRIA Plaka

GRILL

1920 Halandri Telemachos Bbq Club Kifissia steak-i Ag.Paraskevi

INDIAN

BOLLYWOOD Indian CHEF Indian HAVELI Indian Kitchen Indian Masala Indi-GO JAIPUR PALACE KOHENOOR

Gazi Syngrou Syngrou Syntagma Thissio Glyfada Kifissia Gazi

INTERNATIONAL

All Senses Gastronomy Glyfada BAKU Vouliagmeni BUBA Kifissia CHEFI’S Halandri Cosa Nostra Monastiraki Food Mafia Glyfada Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissia La Pierrade Kolonaki Los loros Syntagma Nikkei Kolonaki nolan Syntagma Pere Ubu Glyfada THE BIG KAHUNA Gazi

ITALIAN

30 SOMETHING Halandri AGLIO OLIO Acropolis AL BACIO Vouliagmeni Albion Psychico Al Dente Glyfada AL FRESCO Vouliagmeni Aperitivo Glyfada BALLARO Voula Capanna Kolonaki Codice Blu Kolonaki DA BRUNO Faliro DA VINCI Ag. Paraskevi Dal Professore Maroussi DULCIS IN FUNDO Voula Il Salotto Glyfada Il Salumaio D’ATENE Kifissia LA CASA DI GIORGINO Glyfada Malconi’s Kolonaki MARGHERITA Kifissia Matilde Pizza Bar Psychico Nanninela Ag. Paraskevi nomi Glyfada Ombra Psychico Pausa Maroussi Sale Bianco da Salvotoro Glyfada SALE E PEPE Kolonaki SCALA VINOTECA Kolonaki TONY BONANO Piraeus Tutti a tavola Kolonaki Tuttitalia Kolonaki VEZENE Hilton Vespa Rosa Pangrati

VINCENZO

Glyfada

JAPANESE

FURIN KAZAN Syntagma Hama Glyfada INBI Kolonaki KIKU Kolonaki Koi Syntagma, Voula MATSUHISA ATHENS Vouliagmeni OOZORA Kifissia RAKKAN Kifissia SUBA Kifissia SUSHIMOU Syntagma Tomoe Kifissia Yoko Sushi & Bento Kolonaki

KOREAN

Dosirak

Syntagma

KOSHER

Gostijo

Psyrri

LEBANESE

FALAFELLAS NARGILE SUZANNA

Psyrri Kifissia Faliro

MEDITERRANEAN

Alatsi Hilton BERDEMA Kifisia BYZANTINO Hilton CAFE AVISSINIA Monastiraki Common Secret Kifissia DAPHNE’S RESTAURANT Plaka FATSIO Pangrati GB CORNER Syntagma HYTRA Plaka IDEAL RESTAURANT Omonia KOUZINA CINE-PSIRRI Psyrri MALABAR Vouliagmeni MAVRO PROVATO Pangrati Mimaya Glyfada OCHRE & BROWN Psyrri PARLIAMENT Syntagma P.S. PECORA Psychico RATKA Kolonaki STOU MEIDANI Monastiraki THE DALLIANCE HOUSE Kifissia TO KOUTI Monastiraki TORTUGA Pangrati TRAPEZARIA Pangrati VOSPOROS Piraeus ZORBAS Piraeus

MEXICAN

AMIGOS Glyfada DOS HERMANOS Kifissia EL TACO BUENO Halandri GREXICO MEXICAN STREET FOOD Monastiraki Santa Fe Halandri Syntagma Taqueria Maya

MEZEDES AND OUZO

Antaios ATHINAIKON CINCO KIRKI OUZADIKO SCHOLARHEIO

MULTI ETHNIC

Altamira Altamira BUBA

PERSIAN

ANAHITA

Psychico Omonia Kolonaki Thissio Kolonaki Plaka Kolonaki Marousi Kifissia

Halandri

POLYNESIAN

LEDRA KAI

Syngrou

PUB RESTAURANTS

KEG ‘N’ CREW MOLLY MALONE’S THE JAMES JOYCE

Piraeus Glyfada Thissio

ROOFTOP DINING

ELECTRA Plaka IOANNIS Syntagma LE GRAND BALCON Kolonaki ORIZONTES LYKAVYTTOU Kolonaki ST’ASTRA Mavili Sq

SOUVLAKIA AND KEBAB

BAIRAKTARIS Monastiraki BUTCHER’S SHOP Gazi Gourounakia Kifissias Kifissia KALAMAKI KOLONAKI Kolonaki Kebabtzidikon Barbadimos Nea Smyrni SAVVAS Monastiraki SCHARA Vouliagmeni Souvlaki Bar Thissio THANASSIS Monastiraki

SCANDINAVIAN

SAFKA

Kerameikos

SPANISH

JAMON PINTXOS BAR Glyfada LA GABINOTECA Kifissia SALERO Exarhia

TAVERNAS

FILIpPOU Kolonaki Gaidaros Ag. Paraskevi IPIROS TAVERN Psyrri Kolovos Ag. Paraskevi O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas Kifissia, Syntagma VLASSIS Hilton

THAI

ANDAMAN BLUE BAMBOO Budoo ROUAN THAI ROYAL THAI TAMARIND

Petralona Petralona Syntagma Piraeus Kifissia Metaxourgeio

TURKISH

Mutfak

VEGETARIAN

Avocado MAMMA TIERRA NICE N EASY TO VAZAKI yi

WINE BARS

By The Glass FABRICA DE VINO HETEROCLITO Kiki’s de Grece OINOSCENT Vinifera Vrettos Whispers of wine VINARTE

Glyfada Syntagma Omonia Kolonaki Halandri Glyfada Syntagma Exarhia Syntagma Syntagma Syntagma Kifissia Plaka Maroussi Glyfada

insider athens | February 2017 53

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Aglio Olio & Peperonicino Porinou 13, Tel: 210.921.1801 Authentic Italian pasta in a cozy setting, accompanied by luscious salads and homemade dolci

EAT

Fabrica de Vino

Em. Benaki 3, Tel: 210.321.4148 85 wine etiquettes and mini mezzes in an industrial environment

Kavouras

Themistokleous 64, Tel: 210.381.0202 Dine while enjoying live Rebetika music

Atrium

Rovertou Galli 4, Tel: 210.923.6832 Refined Greek cuisine in a cosy setting

Mani Mani

Falirou 10, Tel: 210.921.8180 Peloponnesian specialities with Mediterranean touches

MODERN Rooftop Dining Athens Was Hotel Dionysiou Arepagaitou 5, Tel: 210.920.0240

Salero

Valtetsiou 51, Tel: 210.381.3358 Spanish and mediterranean cuisine in the heart of Exarhia Valtetsiou 44, Tel: 210.330.1369 Modern Greek cuisine prepared with organic ingredients.

DRINK

Ginger Ale

Gaidaros

Vox

Peloponessou 75, Tel: 210.651.0989 Several reasons to visit, but its succulent spare ribs top the list

Silly Wizards

Peloponessou 79, Tel: 210.654.3908 Great selection of beers and Mexican finger food

Arahovas 56 & Themistokleous Tel: 210.383.5811 One of the oldest summer cinemas in Athens is a picturesque place for a retro-tinged drink

EAT

Faliro

Ag.Paraskevi

EAT

Kolovos

Da Bruno

Ag. Alexandrou 46, Tel: 210.981.8959 Rich list with Italian flavours

Il Tinello

Knossou 54, Tel: 210.982.8462 Real Italian home cookin

Da Vinci

Kitchen Bar

Ag. Ioannou 23, Tel: 210.600.0102 Delightful dishes in fantastic ambience

Poseidonos 3, Tel: 210.981.2004 Comfort food overlooking the sea

Nama

Zaimi 6, Tel: 210.984.2344 French cuisine & excellent wine list

Kyprou 50, Tel: 210.600.8936 Asian fusion cuisine with 20€ sushi buffet on Mon-Tue and 15€ Chinese buffet on Wed-Thu

Nanninela

Peloponnissou 13, Tel: 210.600.5622 Authentic Italian cuisine in traditional decor

Νisson Gi

Mesogeion Ave. 356, Tel: 210.651.1354 Island flavours with an urban twist

54 insider athens | February 2017

EAT

NEW!

The Big Kahuna

Salaminos 42, Tel: 210.524.4100 Exotic street food

Yantes

Themistokleous 74, Tel: 210.330.1246 Enjoy a cocktail or a coffee in a retro pop atmosphere

Ellinoservikis Filias 52, Tel: 210.600.4724 A hidden courtyard with home-cooked cuisine

Modern

Le Petit Sommelier

Suzanna

Orpheus & Chariton 5, Tel: 210.942.8129 Authentic Middle Eastern cuisine

DRINK Zinc

“Flisvos” Marina, Tel: 210.985.3183 Cocktails whith music

Bollywood Gazi

Elasidon 29 & Konstantinoupoleos 44, Tel: 210.345.0041 Indian cuisine in an industrial setting

Butcher’s Shop

Persefonis 19, Tel: 210.341.3440 Traditional psistaria serving grilled meat dishes

Kohenoor

Triptolemou 41, Tel: 210.345.5762 Indian authentic specialties in a neat setting

Prosopa

Meg. Vasiliou 52 & Konstantinoupoleos 4 Tel: 210.341.3433, Delicious dishes in a warm atmosphere right beside the train tracks. A popular gay haunt.

Thalatta

Vitonos 5, Tel: 210.346.4204 Fresh seafood creations

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Almaz

Triptolemou 12, Tel: 210.347.4763 Lounge in a modern atmosphere while listening to music from around the world

Bios

Pireos 84, Tel: 210.342.5335 An avant-garde multi-level venue housing a bar, a basement club, art exhibitions, music venues, and a rooftop garden

Dirty Ginger

Triptolemou 46, Tel: 210.342.3809 Excellent cocktails, meat dishes and “hot” finger food

Hoxton Bar

Voutadon 42, Tel: 210.341.3395, A cocktail bar based on Hoxton in East London

Gazarte

Boutadon 32-34, Tel: 210.346.0347 Lounge bar with excellent views of the Acropolis, ethnic music and live events

Gasoline

Gargittion 23Α, Tel: 210.346.9396 All day bar with freestyle music and interesting guest-nights

MoMix

Keleou 1-5, Tel: 697.435.0179, Temple of mixology and high-quality bartending

PIXI

Evmolpidon 11, Tel: 210.342.3751 Get in to the groove

Plastiko

Sofroniou 12A, Tel: 210.341.0308 Excellent cocktails, reasonable prices, summer mood

Socialista Triptolemou 33, Tel: 210.347.4733 Mainstream bar-club in industrial setting

Tapas Bar

Triptolemou 44, Tel: 210.347.1844 Cocktails and tapas at the bar, just like in Spain

EAT

Glyfada

Dionysiou Arepagaitou 15, Tel: 210.900.0915, Authentic Greek dishes right across from the Acropolis itself

Korai Sq 5 Tel: 213.037.0700 Strictly for carnivores!

Gazi

Acropolis Museum Restaurant

Steak-I

Exarhia

Acropolis

EAT

Bakeries & Patisseries Paul

Esperidon Square and Kyprou 70, Tel: 210.894.7169, A real French boulangerie that serves meals too.

Restaurants All Senses Gastronomy

Lazaraki 12, Tel: 210.898.0080 Lives up to its name of tickling your senses.

Aperitivo

Kyprou 70, Tel: 210.894.0377 Authentic Italian cuisine in a cosy setting

Micheli n Jerome Chef Nikolas tis schinousas S erres Diadohou Pavlou 48, Tel: 210.894.9550 Grigoriou Lambraki 2, wor ks his Tel: 210.894.8882 magic Chic Greek fish tavern along Glyfada’s Chef Yiannis Baxevanis brings Miamiseafront. the AlB inspired opulence to Glyfada Nomi Italian Restaurant team m acio oves to Food Mafia Laodikis 47 Laodikis & Filikis Etairias10, Tel: 210.898.6015 Glyfad a Tel: 210.894.2177 Terrific Italian fare at great prices Ark

International fare with attitude

Giouvetsakia

Ithomis 20 and Moreos, Tel: 210.964.8081 Organic mageirefta food

Hama

Grigoriou Lambraki 34, Tel: 210.960.0595, Sophisticated Japanese cuisine in a cosy setting

Holy Spirit

Laodikis 41, Tel: 210.898.2650 Cocktail Bar with great menu and beautiful atmosphere

Il Salotto

Markou Botsari 13, Tel: 210.894.8397 Minimal décor, elegant Italian fare

Inbi

Lazaraki 26, Tel: 210.894.4982 Sushi fusion

Indi-Go

Konstantinoupoleos 15, Tel: 210.968. 0643

Jamon Pintxos Bar

Laodikis 33-35, Tel: 210.894.6089 Basque “pinchos” in a cozy setting

Keep Woking

Dimitriou Gounari 70, Tel: 211.012.2801, Create-your-own Asian cuisine, fast and funky

La Casa Di Giorgino

Kyprou 30-32, Tel: 210.963.8770 Authentic Italian pizza made in a traditional wood-burning oven

Pere Ubu

Kyprou 74, Tel: 211.215.8737 Fab burgers, great cocktails, right next to the sprawling UBU organic store

Sardelaki

Foivis 15, Tel: 211.402.1195 Sardines and seafood in a casual setting.

Sale Bianco da Salvotoro

Markou Botsari 10A, Tel: 210.898.6301, Authentic Italian food in an inviting atmosphere

Soleto

NEW ARRIVALS! Kolonaki

Glyfada

Tsakalof 6, Tel: 210.364.7712

Laodikis 47 Tel: 210.898.6015

Red door Abovo

Tsakalof 18, Tel: 210.338.8838

Psychico P.S Pecora

Ag. Georgiou 1 & Olympionikon Tel: 210.672.8107

Blue Fox - Papantonis

Kifissias 158 Tel: 210.675.3934

Su Casa

Kyprou 82, Tel: 210.898.5554 Authentic Mexican food paired with any type of tequila you could want

DRINK

Grexico Mexican Street Food Fokionos 4, Tel: 210.331.5540

Bo Botrini’s

Lazaraki 12, Tel: 210.898.0080 A perfect place for a family meal with great food and cocktails

Balux

Chefi’s

Tartare

Daskaroli 67, Tel: 210.964.7600 American style bar with rock, blues, soul music and live events

Spiti

Al. Panagouli 52, Tel: 210.968.0320 Gourmet French cuisine that draws regulars.

The Burger Joint

Foivis 17, Tel: 210.894.0260 NY style, organic burgers in a casual and relaxed environment.

Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.3577 Waterfront lounging

Bourbon

Perikleous 31, Tel: 210.681.5774 Refined cuisine with international flavours and regular wine tastings

Capri Bay

Ethnikis Antistaseos & Psaron 1 Tel: 210.684.0460, Mexican flavours in a traditional setting

Mikro

K. Varnali 9, Tel: 210.685.0644 Exquisite dishes from China, Japan and Indonesia

Grigoriou Lambraki 2, Tel: 210.894.9995 Excellent cocktails in a Moroccan style garden Laodikis 33-35, Tel: 210.894.1031 Minimal decor with well-known Greek DJs

Chocolat

Zisimopoulou 9, Tel: 210.894.3442 Satisfies even the most discerning coffee connoisseur

Vitamin Boost at Yi

Mimaya

Vincenzo

Molly Malone’s

Yi

Giannitsopoulou 1, Tel: 210.894.1310 Value for money Italian specialities with a Southern Italian touch Grigoriou Lampraki 69, Tel: 210.964.8512

CreperieS To Paramythi

Kyprou 9, Tel: 210.894.1361 Creperie in a fairy-tale setting

Halandri

EAT

Laodikis 38, Tel: 210.894.9060 Politiki Kouzina in a romantic setting

Monastiraki

Vasileos Georgiou B 24b, Tel: 210.685.7323 Athens’ best table by far

Cafes

Mutfak

Big Kahuna

Salaminos 42 Tel: 210.524.4100

Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Marangou 18, Tel: 210.894.1511 A wine bar and Italian restaurant with regular art exhibitions and cool decor

Yannitsopoulou 8, Tel: 210.894.4247 Irish pub serving probably the best Irish Stew in Athens

Kerameikos

Laodikis 33, Tel: 210.968.0460

Vinarte

Markou Botsari 8, Tel: 210.894.4850 Creative Mediterranean cuisine.

NOMI Italian Restaurant

30 something

Iroon Sq 8, Tel: 210.689.9227 Pizza and cocktail bar in a San Franscisco atmosphere

Anahita

El Taco Bueno

Saipan

Psomi & Alati

Eleftherioton Sq 8, Tel: 210.684.8178 Gastronomic paradise serving Greek dishes with a modern twist

Rakokazano

Irakliou 1, Tel: 210.689.5501 Quality Greek mezzes in a cosy simple environment

Santa Fe

Ag. Georgiou 30’B, Tel: 210.685.9690 Mexican food in traditional setting

Τo Vazaki - juice bar

Aristotelous 33, Tel: 210.680.0067

Wine Not

Kalogrezis 12, Tel: 210.689.0007 Industrial setting with eclectic wine list

DRINK

Chr. Smirnis 3, Tel: 210.689.1222 The only place in Athens to try authentic Persian dishes

Hide & Seek

Apsendi

Spiti Cocktail Bar

Kifissias 250-254 & Serron Tel: 210.671.7890, Refined cuisine and cocktails in stylish urban atmosphere

Kifisias 254, Tel: 210.677.6747 Great drink menu and perfect garden for spring and summer Αndrea Papantreou 9, Tel: 210.683.3677 Great cocktails and sophisticated jazz tunes

insider athens | February 2017 55

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EAT

Hilton

Oozora

Agiou Trifonos 15, Tel: 210.801.8515 Japanese-Thai fusion Restaurant

Alatsi

O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas

Vrassida 13, Tel: 210.721.0501 Exquisite Cretan specialties

Drosini 12-14, Tel: 210.623.0080 A modern taverna serving traditional dishes at reasonable prices

Byzantino

Athens Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1400 Traditional Greek recipes with a Mediterranean twist

Paul

Cookoovaya

Kolokotroni 37, Tel: 210.808.9160 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

CTC

Oumplianis 14 & Dioharous 27, Tel: 210.722.8812, Different 6 course menus every night, with exceptional quality!

Leilimlei

Baltinon 2 , Tel: 211.700.9383

Milos

Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.724.4400, Simply prepared local flavours. Guaranteed value for money

Vezene

Vrasida 11, Tel: 210.723.2002 Modern bistrot serving seafood & cured beef

Vlassis

Meandrou 15, Tel: 210.646.3060 & 210.725.6335, Family-run taverna serving traditional Greek food

DRINK Galaxy Bar

Athens Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1402, Rooftop cocktails in a chic atmosphere

Kerameikos

EAT Aleria

Meg. Alexandrou 57, Tel: 210.522.2633 Adventurous Greek cuisine in a cosy setting

Athiri

Plataion 15, Tel: 210.346.2983 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine in beautiful surroundings

Funky Gourmet

Paramythias 13 & Salaminos, Tel: 210.524.2727, Haute cuisine in art deco interior

Polly Maggoo

Leonidou 80 & Salaminos, Tel: 210.524.1120, Gourmet cuisine in a post-modern setting.

Safka

Megalou Alexandrou 80-82, Tel: 210.524.3340, Scandinavian cuisine

56 insider athens | February 2017

Prytaneion Galaxy Bar - Hilton

Tamarind

Elaias Gi

DRINK

Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis

Keramikou 51, Tel: 210.522.5945 Thai food in a beautiful setting

CV Bar

Konstantinoupoleos 108 Tel: 210.345.1744

Nixon

Agisilaou 61B, Tel: 210.346.2077 Top Athenian hedonist hangout for the 30-something crowd.

EAT

Kifissia

Hatziyianni Mexi 2A, Tel: 210.723.5005 5 famous chefs combine their talents to create unique flavors.

Levidou 4, Tel: 210.808.4288 French boulangerie

21 Restaurant

Kolokotroni 21, Tel: 210.623.352, Highly recommended.

Refined al-fresco dining with excellent service

Artisanal

Zirini 2, Tel: 693.614.4744 Unique lounge & garden with exceptional classy touch

Berdema

Skiathou 3 & Strofiliou, Tel: 210.620.1108 Family restaurant with Mediterranean fare

Blue Pine

P.Tsaldari 37, Tel: 210.807.7745 A hark back to retro Athens

Buba

Papadiamanti 4, Tel: 210.623.1151 Mixing pot of cuisines from around the world

Cash

Diligianni 54, Tel: 212.100.4772 Cosmopolitan hang-out with upscale Mediterranean cuisine

Dexamenis & Olimpionikon 4, Tel: 210.620.0005 The authenticity of Greek cuisine with stunning views of the city Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.800.1402 Divine food from all over the world

Golden Phoenix

Harilaou Trikoupi & Gortinias Tel: 210.801.3588, Chinese classic popular for the brunch buffet

Kifisias 238-240, Tel: 210.808.7941 Japanese restaurant, bar, lounge with signature cocktails

Royal Thai

Zirini 12, Tel: 210.623.2322 Thai cuisine in an opulent setting

Semiramis Restaurant

Semiramis Hotel, Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Tel: 210.628.4500 Mediterranean cuisine in a hip atmosphere

Suba

Gourounakia Kifissias

Levidou 11, Tel: 210.808.5586 A blend of traditional and modern Japanese cuisine

Il Salumaio di Atene

Fragkopoulou 22, Tel: 210.807.6680 Rare meats char-grilled to perfection

Kifissias 289, Tel: 210.801.1093 Delicious salads, appetizers, souvlakia & grilled platters Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Specially-prepared Italian meals

Jaipur Palace

Kifissias 222, Tel: 210.808.8318 Indian cuisine and fine wines

Kastelorizo

Platanon 2, Tel: 210.807.5408 Part of a chain of upscale seafood restaurants that is sure to please

Kokkino Psaraki

Evagelistrias 36, Tel: 210.620.1572 Seafood taverna

Kool Life

Life Gallery, Thiseos 103, Tel: 211.106.7400 Innovative cuisine in a cool restaurant cum deli

La Gabinoteca

Th. Diligianni 56, Tel: 210.808.3988 Tapas bar with decadent atmosphere

Margherita

Kifisias 363, Tel: 211.408.1132 Fantastic pizza made with local ingredients from all over Greece

Nargile

Common Secret

Kifissias 324, Tel: 210.623.3810 Coffee and light Mediterranean meals in a pleasant setting

Harilaou Trikoupi 50, Tel: 210.808.3333 Lebanese cuisine in a cosmopolitan ambience

Dos Hermanos

Nui

Kyriazi 24, Tel: 210.808.7906 Excellent Mexican food & super margaritas

Rakkan

Gortinias 11, Tel: 210.801.3553 Gourmet mutli-Asian restaurant

Telemachos Barbeque Club

The Dalliance House

Kyriazis 19, Tel: 210.623.0775 The 19th century meets the 21st in beautiful setting, with successful recipes

The Wilbury  

Kifisias 238, Tel: 210.808.9454

Tomoe

Gortinias 11& Dangli, Kifissia, Tel: 210.801.3553 Great sushi at terrific prices

DRINK Dyo 48

Kifisias 248, Tel: 210.623.0870 New hang out oasis with retro ambience

Mento CafĂŠ

Ag. Theodorou 10, Tel: 210.808.0193 Traditional home turned stylish cafe

Vinifera

Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.807.7709 Selection of wines from all over the world

Food & Wine Cellier

Kifissias 369, Tel: 210.801.8756 By far, one of the best cellars stocking the finest labels in town

Bakeries & Patisseries Cake

Irodotou 15, Tel: 210.721.2253 For real American homemade cheesecake, brownies and more

Fresh

Kriezotou 12, Tel: 210.364.2948 Desserts and cakes

Restaurants Abovo

Tsakalof 18, Tel: 210.338.8838 Refined Mediterranean fare

Altamira

Tsakalof 36A, Tel: 210.361.4695 Flavours of multiethnic cuisine

Cafe Boheme

Omirou 36, Tel: 210.360.8018 Welcoming nook with Greek cooking and more-ish cocktails

Capanna

Ploutarchou 38 & Charitos, Kolonaki Tel: 210.724.1777 People-watching and authentic Italian fare

Cinco

Skoufa 52, Tel: 210.364.3603 Great cocktails and specialty tapas

Kalamaki Kolonaki

Sale e Pepe

Kiku

Scala Vinoteca

Ploutarhou 32, Tel: 210.721.8800 Souvlakia on the sidewalk have never been so trendy Dimokritou 12, Tel: 210.364.7033 Fresh, beautifully presented sushi

L’Abreuvoir

Xenokratous 51, Tel: 210.722.9106 Fine French cuisine

La Pierrade

Spefsippou 30, Tel: 210.723.7297 Elegant setting, refined cuisine, extremely polite service.

La Suite Lounge

St George Lycabettus Hotel, Kleomenous 2, Tel: 210.741.6000 Gourmet Greek cuisine

Malconi’s

Patriarchou Ioakeim 43 & Ploutarxou, Tel: 210.724.8920 Great food, bustling atmosphere.

Nice n Easy

Omirou 60 & Skoufa, Tel.: 210.361.7201 Gourmet cafe-restaurant with organic products and jazz music

Nikkei

Ouzadiko

IT restaurant

Skoufa 29, Tel: 210.363.5773, Affordable gourmet menu in a chic environment.

Papadakis

Ratka

Haritos 32, Tel: 210.729.0746 Popular haunt of the rich and almost famous, with cosmopolitan cuisine

Red door

Barefo ot, D Tsakalof 6, yakinik u exper IY Tel: 210.364.7712 ience Authentic Japanese experience

Mai Tai

Ipsilantou 63, Tel: 210.722.4737

Ploutarhou 18, Tel: 210.725.8306 Early evening cocktails in a laid-back atmosphere

Spiros & Vasilis

Lachitos 5, Tel: 210.723.7575 Original French cuisine

Stinking Bishops

Rosebud

Loukianou 36, Tel: 213.026.3656 Fashionable gastro pub

Suba Restaurant

Skoufa 58 & Sina, Tel: 210.338.8211 Authentic sushi in the heart of the city

TGI Friday’s

Omirou 60 & Skoufa 40, Tel: 210.339.2370 All day hang-out with music ranging from jazz to famous soundtracks

Skoufaki

Skoufa 47-49, Tel: 210.364.5888 All time classic café bar

Ten

Spefsippou 8, Tel: 210.722.2785 Authentic Italian trattoria at affordable prices.

Tuttitalia

Ploutarhou 10, Tel: 210.721.0161 One of the most popular hot spots in town

Cafés Da Capo

Tsakalof 1, Tel: 210.360.2497 Long-established people-watching hangout

Valaoritou 14, Tel: 210.338.9669 An authentic and hospitable Italian trattoria

Peros

Yoko Sushi & Bento

Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.364.5068 Enjoy a cup of java if you can find a spot

39 Patriarchou Ioakeim Tel: 210.342.4654 Fresh sushi to-go!

Tea

Yoleni’s

Solonos 9, Tel: 212.222.3600

To Tsai

Soutsou 19, Tel: 210.338.8941 Tea & tea paraphernalia from around the world

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges

EAT

56

Agani

Ploutarchou 56, Tel: 210.723.1424 A quaint jazzy whiskey bar for the discerning

City

Charitos 43, Tel: 210.722.8910 Modern aesthetics, mutli-culti crowd and soulful music

London str 72

To Tsai

IT Restaurant

Simul

Tutti a Tavola

Lycabettus Hill, Tel: 210.722.7065 Gourmet dining with a spectacular view

Filippou

Xenokratous 21 Tel: 210.729.9595 Creative fusion cuisine

Milioni 12, Tel: 210.364.6460 Missoni-designed interiors, serving unique Mediterranean flavours

Orizontes Lycavyttou

Fokilidou 15 & Voukourestiou 47A Tel: 210.360.8621 Paros’ legendary gourmet restaurant serving seafood in the heart of Athens

Freud Oriental

Showroom

Kolokotroni 35, Tel: 210.623.3945, American restaurant with real steak and barbecuesauce for casual dining!

Karneadou 25-26, Tel: 210.729.5484 Traditional Greek appetizers & ouzo

Xenokratous 19, Tel: 210.721.6390 Home-cooked Greek taverna dishes

Sina 50, Tel: 210.361.0041 Mediterranean restaurant ideal for wining & dining

Leventi 3, Tel: 210.723.9366 Peruvian aromas and flavours in Kolonaki!

Codice Blu

Haritos & Loukianou, Tel: 210.723.0896 Italian cuisine, great for family brunches and people-watching.

Aristipou 34, Tel: 210.723.4102 Authentic Italian trattoria

Solonos 72, Tel: 693.951.1760, 690.607.3362 Union jacks and red telephone booths in an all day bar-restaurant

Maroussi

Kolonaki

EAT

Kifissias 22, Tel: 210.277.7065 Delectable, inspired Greek cuisine

Altamira

Perikleous 28, Tel: 210.612.8841 Multiethnic cuisine in funky environment

Aneton

Stratigou Lekka 19, Tel: 210.806.6700 Traditional cuisine in a comfy-chic setting reminiscent of the 50s & 60s

insider athens | February 2017 57

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Alamanas 1, Tel: 210.619.9902 Clean lines and a beautiful garden make this café, bar, restaurant a must

Pausa

Ag. Konstantinou 46 & Ifestou 3 Tel: 210.617.9290 Italian cuisine accompanied by a selection of Greek & Italian wines

Wagamama

Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.683.6844 Fresh, nutritious Asian fusion food in a sleek yet simple setting

Whispers of wine

Ag. Konstantinou 48, Tel: 210.617.9051, Gourmet food with rich wine list and vintage decor

Mavili Sq

EAT 48 Urban Garden

Armatolon kai Klefton 48, Tel: 210.80.18.515 Cool, minimalist environment and interesting, fusion cuisine.

Fuga

Vas.Sofias & Kokkali 1, Tel: 210.724.2979 Italian inspired menu by chef Andrea Berton at the Athens Concert Hall

Ginger

Dorileou 10-12, Tel: 210.645.1169 Original dishes and innovative combinations in an elegant atmosphere

St’Astra

Alexadras 10, Tel: 210.889.4500 For an unforgettable roof-top dining experience

To Parko Eleftherias

Next to Megaron Mousikis, Tel: 210.722.3784 Classic recipes and nice atmopshere in a lush green park

Thanassis To Kouti

Tsoha 43, Tel: 210.644.4308 Gourmet cuisine and funky beats

DRINK

Athinas 65 & Lykourgou Tel: 210.325.0900 Urban design, organic cuisine, Cretan deli corner

Briki

360 Cocktail Bar

Tsoha 27, Tel: 210.644.1215 Lovely garden and chic interior attracts a cool crowd

Baraonda

Dorileou 6, Tel: 210.654.2380 Trendy hole-in-the-wall hangout

Adrianou 23, Tel: 210.321.3229 Mediterranean fare right next to the ancient agora

Ifestou 2, Tel: 210.321.0006

A for Athens

EAT

Miaouli 2-4, Tel: 210.324.4244 An urban terrace with the most stunning view of the Acropolis

Bairaktaris

Couleur Locale

Monastiraki Square 2 Tel: 210.321.3036 Old-world taverna serving traditional Greek fare

Café Avissinia

Kynetou 7, Tel: 210.321.7047 Specializing in regional dishes & live music on weekends

Cosa Nostra

Agias Theklas 5, Tel: 210.331.0900 Excellent Italian food with a 1920’s Chicago retro atmosphere.

Grexico Mexican Street Food Fokionos 4, Tel: 210.331.5540 Tantalising Mexican flavours

Melilotos

Kalamiotou 19, Tel: 210.322.2458 Greek-Mediterranean cuisine with fresh local ingredients

Savvas

Mitropoleos 86, Tel: 210.321.9919 Gyros & Middle Eastern dishes like pastourmali

Sigalas-Bairaktaris

Monastiraki Sq. 2, Tel: 210.321.3036 Century-old restaurant serving a variety of fresh dishes

Souvlaki Bar

Adrianou 7 & Thisiou 15, Tel: 210.515.0550

Stou Meïdani

Sokratous 3 & Evripidou Tel: 210.324.9073, A menu that is sure to please with speciality oven dishes

Normanou 3, Tel: 206.700.4917 A young scene with great cocktails and affordable finger food overlooking the Acropolis

Loukoumi Bar

Plateia Avissinias 3, Tel: 210.323.4814 An all day hang-out with good music, cool atmosphere and great views

Six Dogs

Avramiotou 6-8, Tel: 210.321.0510 A day&night cultural entertainment center and bar with a vivid 600m2 back-garden.

Spollati

Aiolou 27A, Tel: 215.551.3004 A delicious combination of signature cocktails with homemade syrups and funky Mediterranean cuisine

Taf

Trata

Themistokleous 8 and Nikitara 9, Tel: 210.383.8531, Excellent fish taverna in the centre of Athens

CAFes Cosa Nostra

Agias Theklas 5, Tel: 210.331.0900 Excellent Italian food with a 1920’s Chicago retro atmosphere.

EAT Fatsio

Efroniou 5, Tel: 210.721.7421 Greek food & political gossip

Mavro Provato

Ariannou 31, Tel: 210.722.3466 Best value-for-money meal in Athens

Spondi

Pyrronos 5, Tel: 210.756.4021, A mix of European & more exotic flavours. Voted one of the best in Athens

Tortuga

CAFes

Efronionos 13, Tel: 210.921.3500, Mediterranean cuisine in chic setting

Archimidous 1, Tel: 213.030.7520, Healthy, affordable street-style food.

Trapezaria

Trata o Stelios

Mokka

Athinas 44, Tel: 210.321.6892 Best espresso in town.

Tailor Made

Aghias Irinis Square 2, Tel: 213.004.9645 Trendy and hip coffee shop and cocktail bar.

EAT

Anagenniseos Sq. 7-9, Tel: 210.729.1533 The best grilled fish in town

Vespa Rosa

Naiadon 2, Tel: 210.723.4551 Great value-for-money Italian cuisine

DRINK LIVE BARS

Athinaikon

Abaroriza

Duck Soup

Half Note Jazz Club

Panepistimiou 39 Tel: 210.323.3916

Ideal Restaurant

Panepistimiou 46, Tel: 210.330.3000 Greek classics in old-world decor

58 insider athens | February 2017

Pallas Athena

Normanou 5, Tel: 210.323.8757 Outdoor bar in a neoclassical building with arty atmosphere and great exhibitions

Themistokleous 2, Tel: 210.383.8485 A traditional Greek ouzeri

Fuga

Olive Garden

Hotel Titania, Panepistimiou 52, Tel: 210.332.600. Good food and great view of the Acropolis.

Balthazar

Mitropoleos 69, Tel: 210.324.4705 A souvlaki lover’s paradise

Pangrati

Mauzac

DRINK

Omonia

Agiou Konstantinou 56, Tel: 210.610.9988, Italian menu with a menu that changes daily!

Monastiraki

Dal Professore

Mama Tierra

Akadimias 84, Tel: 211.411.4420

Plastira Square 10, Tel: 210.701.9530 A pet friendly place with long balcony tables that fill up every night Trivonianou 17, Tel: 210.921.3310 A jazz club with great history, hosting important names from the international music scene.

Superfly

Empedokleous 28-30, Tel: 211.404.6076 The new hot spot for retro gamers

Alopis 65, Tel: 211.210.4939, Thai food in an exotic setting

Blue Bamboo

Kidantidon 24, Tel: 210.342.3124, Thai food with modern interior design

Thio Tragi

Kidantidon 36, Tel: 210.341.0296 Creative gourmet kitchen with high quality ingredients

DRINK Kurios Hou

Yperionos 1 & Dimofontos, Tel: 210.342.3972, Among Petralona’s trendy dining options with attitude.

Piraeus

EAT Captain John’s

Ak. Koumoundourou 16A, Tel: 210.417.7589 Traditional seafood

Dourambeis

Ak. Protopsalti 29, Tel: 210.412.2092 Classic fish taverna

Jimmy and The Fish

Ak. Mikrolimanou, Tel: 210.412.4417 Excellent seafood; try the astakomakaronada

Hams and Clams

Akti Themistokleous 36, Tel: 210.418.6683

Keg ‘n’ Crew

Akti Miaouli 83, Tel: 210.429.0396 Comfort food and cold beers

Kollias

Plastira 3, Tel: 210.462.9620 Excellent seafood but difficult to find; reserve on weekends

Papaioannou

Akti Koumoundourou 42, Tel: 210.422.5059, For Greek fish specialities on the harbourfront.

Notara 131, Piraeus, Tel: 210.429.4494, Home-style Thai food

Tony Bonano

Papanastasiou 63, Tel: 210.411.1901 Italian cuisine with a view of the har8 meze lunc bour h platte

r with wine or tsipouro Ak. Koumoundourou 52, for just 30€ Varoulko

Mikrolimano, Tel: 210.522.8400 Seafood prepared by Michelin star-winning chef Lefteris Lazarou

Vassilenas

Etolikou 72 & Vitolion, Tel: 210.461.2457 Friendly food and atmosphere

Vosporos

Akti Koumoundourou 20, Tel: 210.412.7324, Mediterranean dining with a sea view.

Zefyros

Ak. Koumoundourou 48, Tel: 210.417.5152 Fresh seafood on the quay

Zorbas

Ak. Koumoundourou 14, Tel: 210.411.1663 Unique flavours of the Mediterranean

DRINK Istioploikos

Ak. Microlimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084 One of the hip places to see and be seen with a rooftop bar overlooking the yachting marina

Katafigio

Ak. Koumoundourou 4, Tel: 210.413.1612 Club, cafe & beer house

EAT 2 Mazi

Nikis 48, Tel: 210.322.2839 Creative gourmet dishes that change monthly

Brettos

Kydathaneon 41, Tel: 210.323.2110, Legendary watering-hole in the Plaka district

Daphne’s Restaurant

Lysikratous 4, Tel: 210.322.7971 Refined classic Greek dishes in a resplendent atmosphere

Electra

Nikodimou 18-20, Tel: 210.337.0000 Roof-top dining with Greek cuisine

Mono Wine Restaurant

Venizelou Paleologou 4, Tel: 210.322.6711 Unpretentious gourmet cuisine

Scholarheio Varoulko

Tripodon 14, Tel: 210.324.1605 A traditional tray taverna with old fashioned decor & prices

Albion

Ydria

Adrianou 68 & Eolou, Tel: 210.325.1619 Taditional Greek cuisine

China’s Fantasy

DRINK

Dim. Vasiliou 16, Tel: 210.671.3997 All day café-restaurant

Bars, Clubs & Lounges Noël

Kolokotroni 59B, Tel: 211.215.9534 An evening lounge scene with friendly service and Italian inspired food and drink

The Clumsies

Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2682 Features tasty cocktails and premium spirits that attract all ages

Throubi

Aghias Eirinis Square & Vasilikis 1, Tel: 210.323.0926, A cozy and colorful space with a good selection of coffee and cocktails

Toy Cafe

Karytsi 10, Tel: 210.331.1555 Jazz and funk venue that started the Karytsi street scene

EAT

Psychico

Andaman

Rouan Thai

Plaka

Petralona

EAT

310 Street

Kifissias Av. 310, Tel: 210.671.0688 Juicy burgers and rich salads with retro look

Albion

Omirou 6, Tel: 210.674.0710 Mediterranean flavours in a cosy atmosphere

Antaios

G. Drosini 7, Tel: 210.675.5493 Relaxed atmosphere with delicious mezedes

Bluefield Burger

Aggelopoulou 3, Tel: 210.677.7739 For real American burgers

The Burger Joint

Solomou 4-6, Tel: 210.671.2222, New York style, organic burgers in an industrial and fresh restaurant environment.

Kambouroglou 32, Tel: 210.674.9889 Chinese cuisine

Dioskouroi

Dourampeis Oyster

Andrianiou 37, Tel: 210.671.0100 Delectable seafood and frech oysters

Fish Co. Platters

Perikleous 11, Tel: 210.671.1976 A modern take on a traditional psarotaverna

Gaspar Food and Mood

Dim. Vasiliou Av. & Lykourgou, Tel: 210.677.5011, Creative bistro cuisine ideal fro business lunches

Hachiko Sushi

Leof. Kifisias 304, Tel: 211.411.2211

Krithamos

Mpoumpoulinas & N. Paritsi, Tel: 210.672.8790 Traditional flavours in an informal atmosphere

Ombra

Olimpionikon 220 & Lykourgou, Tel: 210.671.1320 Italian food with attitude

Piperia

Agg. Sikelianou 8 & Andrianiou, Tel: 210.672.9114 Terrific fusion food with piquant flavours

P.s.Pecora

Ag. Georgiou 1 & Olympionikon Tel: 210.672.8107 Mediterranean cuisine with Italian flair

Rena tis Ftelias

25th Martiou 28, Tel: 210.674.3874 Highly recommended Greek taverna

DRINK CAFES Kudu

25th Martiou 22, Tel: 217.722.3040 Authentic coffee experience.

insider athens | February 2017 59

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EAT

Diporto

Theatrou & Sokratous, Tel: 210.321.1463 Old-world tavern offers bargain basics like salads, sardines & fava

Falafellas

Aiolou 51,Tel: 210.323.9809 Gourmet ethnic street food

Gostijo

Aisopou 10 street, Tel: 210.323.3825, Kosher menu and Mediterranean “repertoire”

Ipiros Tavern

New Taste

Syntagma

Psyrri

EAT

Amandine Bagels & Gourmandises

Nikis 13, Syntagma Tel: 210.323.9829 Fresh bagels and French pastries

Avocado

Nikis 30, Tel: 210.323.7878 Vegetarian restaurant

Budoo

Lekka 14, Tel: 210.331.3845 Authentic Thai

By The Glass

Souri 2, Tel: 210.323.2560 Charming wine bar with character

Athens Central Market Filopimenos 4, Tel: 210.324.0773, Great traditional Greek tavern, an excellent place for lunch

City Bistro

Kouzina Cine-Psirri

Dosirak

Stoa Spiliomilou,Tel: 210.321.1315, Refined cuisine in chic setting

Sari 40, Tel: 210.321.5534 Mediterranean fare & eclectic music

Museum of Greek Gastronomy

Voulis 31-33, Tel: 210.323.3330 Japanese & Korean cuisine in the heart of Athens

Agiou Dimitrious Street, Tel: 210.321.1311, Modern Hellenic cuisine and avant-garde gastronomic exhibitions.

Feedέλ Urban Gastronomy

Ochre & Brown

Furin Kazan

Leokoriou 7, Tel: 210.331.2950 Mediterranean/French cuisine

Ktena 1, Athens, Tel: 210.321.0551 Funky interior, a delightful patch of green space Apollonos 2, Tel: 210.322.9170 A Japanese favourite of expats & Athenians alike

DRINK

GB Corner

Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Hotel Grand Bretagne, Tel: 210.333.0750, Luxurious surroundings, Mediterranean cuisine

Beer Time

Indian Kitchen

Iroon Square 1, Tel: 210.322.8443 Relaxed atmosphere with wide selection of microbrews

Apollonos 6, Tel: 210.323.7720

Ioannis

Booze Cooperativa

Royal Olympic Hotel, Ath. Diakou 28-34, Tel: 210.928.8400 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine with breathtaking views from the rooftop

Cantina Social

Ipitou & Voulis 38, Tel: 210.321.1279 Cosy wine bar with French flair

Kolokotroni 57, Tel: 211.405.3733 A multi-purpose meeting venue for drinks, performances, and games Leokoriou 8, Tel: 210.325.1668, Tiny standing bar, ideal for socializing

Dude

Kalamiotou 14, Tel: 210.322.7130 Uptempo bar inspired by “Big Lebowski”

Kiki’s de Grece

New Hotel, Filellinon 16, Tel: 210.327.3170, Mediterranean cuisine with a modern twist

Nolan

Voulis 31-33, Tel:210.324.3545

Noodle Bar

Apollonos 11, Tel: 210.331.8585 A congenial place to drop in for a quick noodle fix

O Tzitzikas ki o Mermigas

Mitropoleos 12-14, Tel: 210.324.7607 Savoury Greek cuisine, perfectly combining modern & traditional elements

Osterman

DRINK

Agias Eirinis Sq, Tel: 210.324.3331 Mediterranean dishes in a setting where minimalism meets retro

Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Pasaji

Kolokotroni 3, Tel: 694.824.2455, Delicious creative cocktails and mixology

Stoa Spyromiliou, Tel: 210 .322.0714, Bang in the heart of Athens’ luxe zone.

Paul

Panepistiomiou 10, Tel: 210.722.4824 A true French patisserie

Plaza Lounges

NJV Athens Plaza Hotel Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400 All day lounge with salads & snacks

Sushimou

Skoufou 6, Tel: 211.407.8457 Owner Chef Antonis Drakoularakos, rated among the world’s 100 top chefs, lets his food do the talking

Taqueria Maya

Petraki 10, Tel: 211.216.7081, Feisty Mexican street food choices at pocket-friendly prices

The Parliament

NJV Athens Plaza Hotel Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400, International cuisine with Mediterranean accents

Tudor Hall Restaurant & Lounge

42 Bar

9

Kolokotroni 9, Tel: 210.323.2795 A cozy jazz bar with specialty cocktails

Abariza

Lekka 14, Tel: 210.325.7644 A wall of booze for serious drinkers

Alexander’s

Hotel Grande Bretagne, Syntagma Sq, Tel: 210.333.0000, For cherished cigar and single malt evenings

Baba Au Rum

Klitiou 6, Tel: 211.710.9140 Amazing cocktails and rum collection with a cozy environment

Barreldier

Voulis 7, Tel: 210.325.4711 An all-day café-cum-watering hole open into the wee hours

Barley Cargo

Kolokotroni 6, Tel: 210.323.0445 Enjoy a wide selection of international and Greek beers accompanied by live music

Boutique

15 Nikis, Tel: 210.321.1099 Affordable street-food style sushi

King George Hotel, Vas. Georgiou A3, Tel: 210.322.2210, Elegant setting, refined cuisine and an incredible Acropolis view

Los Loros

Wild in the City

Thiseos 16, Tel: 210.331.3733 A friendly place to drink to vintage music from the ‘50s and ‘60s

Koi

Stoa Bolani, Voulis 7, Tel: 210.331.5776

Xenofontos 14 & Nikis, Tel: 210.324.3232

The concierge of the Grande Bretagne Hotel recommends EAT

DRINK

DO

New Pepe Aperitivo, Kolonaki, Athens Classic F+W by Olivier Campanha, Kolonaki, Athens Alternative Barrio, Gazi, Athens

New Epta 7 Bar - Restaurant, Monastiraki, Athens Classic Penarrubia, Alimos Alternative The Clumsies Monastiraki, Athens

New Voyage,

60 insider athens | February 2017

Feedέλ

Greek Shipbuilding and Seafaring from antiquity to modern times

Herakleidon Museum Classic National Historical Museum Alternative Pina Bausch, Sweet Mambo Onassis Cultural Center

Filellinon 15, Tel: 210.323.1315 Popular Athenian night spot

Drunk Sinatra

Explorer’s Lounge

Cava Vegera

NJV Athens Plaza, Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.335.2400, Magnificent cocktails and live jazz in an intimate atmosphere

Poseidonos 11, Tel: 210.964.6635 A new wine bar changing the game for the stagnant costal enclave

Nelly’s Gastro Pub

Heteroclito

Plastira 3, Tel: 210.899.4965 An unpretentious hang-out with reasonably-priced drinks, themed sports nights, and knock-out burgers

Fokionos 2, Tel: 210.323.9406 A true wine destination with focus on Greek vineyards

Kalua

Madras House of Tea Voulis 7, Tel: 210.324.2777

Mama Roux

Aiolou 48, Tel: 213.004.8382 A comfortable atmosphere with a variety of international cuisine and an elaborate Sunday brunch

Oinoscent

Voulis 45-47, Tel: 210.322.9374, Trendy winebar

The Clumsies

Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2682 Find out why it is rated amongst the best bars in Europe.

The Gin Joint

Christou Lada 1, Tel: 210.321.8646 Popular drinks, classic cocktails and the fanciest G&T in Athens!

The Trap

Othonos 10, Tel: 210.321.5561 Alluring gold trimmings, cosy mood and smooth tunes and dangerously delicious cocktails on tap

CAFES Kaya

Voulis 7, Tel: 213.028.4305 For a caffeine fix like no other.

Syngrou

EAT

Ithaki

Avenue

Hytra

Onassis Cultural Center Syngrou Ave 107-109, Tel: 217.707.1118, 210.331.6767 Creative gourmet Greek cuisine with stunning views

Indian Chef

Athanasiou Diakou 22, Tel: 210.923.3585

Indian Haveli

Syngrou Ave. 12, Tel: 210.924.4522

Kollias

Syngrou Ave. 303, Tel: 210.940.8620 Excellent seafood in a pleasant Mediterranean atmosphere

Ledra Kai

Athens Ledra Hotel, Syngrou 115, Tel: 210.930.0000 Polynesian Tepanyiaki restaurant going strong after 30 years

Première

Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel: 210.920.6981 Gourmet cuisine with splendid views

EAT Indian Masala

Ermou 129, Tel: 210.321.9412 Amazing Indian food at affordable price in a pleasant environment

Kirki

Apostoplou Pavlou 31, Tel: 210.346.6960 Ideal for a lunch break

Ai Nikolas

Syngrou Ave. 156, Tel: 210.923.2918 Original seafood dishes, fresh ingredients and simple elegant interior

Avenue

Metropolitan Hotel, Syngrou Ave 385, Tel: 210.947.100, French bistrot inspired by Michel Roux

Café Zoe

Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel: 210.920.6655 Casual dining and terrific buffets for lunch and on Sundays

Kuzina

Adrianou 9, Tel: 210.324.0133 Inspired traditional recipes in a cozy arty environment

The James Joyce

Astiggos 12, Tel: 210.323.5055 Genuine Irish pub with typical pub fare

DRINK The Sowl

Iraklidon 10, Tel: 210.345.0003 Art, taste, fashion and music collide at this welcoming new “ethnic urban” space

Underdog

Iraklidon 8, Tel: 213.036.5393 Specialty coffees, impressive selection of foreign and Greek craft beers, and exceptional cocktail menu

EAT

Voula

Voulis 7, Tel: 213.035.2144 Impressive selection of single malts

Thissio

Low Profile

Vouliagmeni

EAT

Amerikis 6, Tel: 210.360.8304 Dance the night away in a chic environment

Coconuts

Vasileos Pavlou 67, Tel: 210.895.5177, The place to stock up on your quinoa chips and acai berries

Drakoulis Meat Open Project

Vas. Pavlou 103, Tel: 210.932.0211 A nightclub, gourmet emporium, and Athens’ most glamorous meat boutique all in one

Dulcis in Fundo

Prinkipos Petrou 33, Tel: 210.894.2136 Top-quality authentic Italian

Koi

98 Vas. Pavlou, Tel: 213.032.0890 Affordable streetfood style sushi

Naiades

Vas. Pavlou 74, Tel: 210.965.7706 Popular family grill joint

Ballaro Italian Restaurant & Deli

Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.896.3747 Beautiful sea view, fresh seafood

Lutetia Bistro

The Margi, Litous 11, Tel: 210.892.9160 Multinational tastes in a chic Mediterranean ambiGin ta ence

sting plu s on Mar Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, 24 for ch Tel: 210.896.0510, Celebrity chef 60€ Matsuhisa Athens

dinner

Nobu Matsuhisa serves up sushi favourites with a Latin-American flair

Moorings

Marina Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.967.0659

Mythos of the Sea

Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Tel: 210.891.1100 Gourmet Mediterranean cuisine that blends local produce with fresh seafood

Psaraki

Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2215 Seafood served in an informal setting

Rafale

Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.967.1184 Traditionally prepared seafood dishes presented exquisitely

Sardelaki

Leof. Poseidunos 18, Tel: 210.967.0913 Affordable seafood on the waterfront

Troufa Chocolate Bar

Waffle House

DRINK

DRINK

Bars, Clubs & Lounges

En Plo

Agiou Ioannou 28, Tel: 215.510.9975 Mid-range or special edition wine varieties with a giddy range of imported goodies

at 30€

Malabar

Schara

Cava Faydon

brunch

Somewhere Hotel, Dios 2just Tel: 210.967.0000 Affordable gourmet cuisine

Posidonos 12, Tel: 210.899.4464 Charming deli-trattoria with flavours from Palermo Vasileos Pavlou 80, Tel: 211.012.0004 Heaven on earth for chocoholics

Sunday

Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Grills with frills in a friendly setting at reasonable prices Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.1227 Sure to satisfy your sweet tooth

Posidonos 4, Tel: 210.967.1770 Cocktails overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay

Island

27th klm Athinon-Souniou Tel: 210.965.3563-4 Award-winning cuisine & an unmatched location

insider athens | February 2017 61

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Bookstores

Compendium

Alikarnassou 8, Athens Tel: 210.383.2139, 210.322.1248

Eleftheroudakis

Panepistimiou 15, Athens Tel: 210.331.7609 The largest foreign language bookstore in Greece

Ιanos

Le livre ouvert

Solonos 77, Kolonaki Tel: 210.362.9703

Lexikopoleio

Stasinou 13, Tel: 210.723.1201

Ouranio Toxo

Perikleous 41, Ag.Paraskevi Tel: 211.184.6771

Papasotiriou

Panepistimiou 37, Athens Tel: 210.325.3232, 210.332.3301

Polyglot

Akadimias 84, Tel: 210.330.0455

Public

Karageorgi Servias 1, Syntagma, S. Karagiorga 4 & Lazaraki, Glyfada The Mall and Golden Hall, Maroussi Tel: 210.818.1333

Deli

Arapian

Evripidou 41, Monastiraki Tel: 210.321.7238 Old-style butcher shop offering cured meats

Bahar

Evripidou 31, Monastiraki Tel: 210.321.7225 Well-known herb haven

Cava Anthidis

Patriarchou Ioakeim 45, Kolonaki Tel: 210.725.1050 Comprehensive wine and liquor wholesalers

Cellier

Kriezotou 1d, Syntagma Tel: 210.361.0040, Kifissias Ave. 369, Tel: 210.801.8756, Syngrou Ave. 320, Tel: 210.453.3551 Stockists of premium wines and spirits

Kostarelos

Patr. Ioakeim 30-32, Tel: 210.725.9000 Great selection of cheese and Greek goodies

Kylix

Karneadou 20, Tel: 210.724.5143 Quality picks from the world’s best vineyards

Marks & Spencer Food

Ermou 33-35, Athens, Tel: 210.324.0675 Vouliagmenis Av. 85, Glyfada, Tel: 211.012.4968 Lazaraki 13, Glyfada, Tel: 210.894.3147 Pentelis Av. 23, Vrilissia, Tel: 211.012.5381

Mesogaia

Nikis 52, Syntagma Tel: 210.322.9146 Packaged & fresh speciality foods

Miran

Evripidou 45, Tel: 210.321.7187 Sausages, pastrami & cured meats

Provence

Posidonos 80, Tel: 210.898.1435 Gourmet French delicatessen

Sorpresa Italiana

Kiriazi 6-8, Tel: 210.801.7886, Authentic fresh Italian pasta, sauces, truffles & more

Jewellery

Lea Books

Sina 60, Kolonaki Tel: 211.012.0547

Kostarelos

Stefanidis Finest Foods

Dimitrios Sq 13, Tel: 210.808.2191 Excellent European delicatessen

Varsos

Kassaveti 5, Tel: 210.801.2472 Milk products & patisserie

Wine Garage

Xenokratous 25, Tel: 210.721.3175, Browser-friendly cava with helpful service

Apriati

Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed jewellery for the young

Elena Votsi

Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation pieces in gold and stone

Fanourakis

Patriarchou Ioakim 23, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.1762, Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings

Folli Follie

Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Kolonaki, Tel: 210.323.0739 Greece's high-street export stocks watches and everyday bijoux

Omega

Voukourestiou 2, Kolonaki Tel: 210.322.7682 Elegant boutique showcasing the brand's timeless timepieces

Van Cleef & Arpels Athens Metro Mall

Dept Stores

Stadiou 24, Athens Tel: 210.321.7917, 231.022.1113

Vouliagmenis Avenue 276, Tel: 210.976.9444 Shops, cinemas and food

Attica

Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury goods

Golden Hall

Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 131 high-end (and highstreet) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion

Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki Tel: 210.331.0319 The jeweller of the international jetset

Bulgari

Voukourestiou 8, Kolonaki Tel: 210.324.7118, Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories

Cartier

Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison

McArthurGlen

Building Block E71, Yalou, 19004, Spata, Tel: 210.663.0830, 210.663.0840 Designer Outlet Shopping Centre

The Mall Athens

Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food Attica

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Chopard

GB Spa

Zolotas

Chopard

Greece is for Lovers

Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou Tel: 210.325.0555 Legendary time pieces and jewellery.

Ilias Lalaounis

Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller

It's all, oh so souvenir to me!

Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces

Marathianakis

Karagiorgi Servias 4 (Stoa Kalliga), Tel: 210.362.7118 & 210.322.2424 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs

Kori

Mitropoleos 13, Monastiraki Tel: 210.323.3534 Traditional & contemporary jewellery

Pentheroudakis

Voukourestiou 19, Tel: 210.361.3187 Timeless pieces inspired by classical Greek design

Forget me not

Adriannou 100, Plaka Tel: 210.325.3740 www.forgetmenotathens.gr

Paliosintheies

Vas.Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1000

Protogenous 8, Psyrri, Tel: 210.656.0574 Vintage home décor and furniture

I-Spa

InterContinental Athenaeum Athens Syngrou Avenue 89-93, Tel: 210.920.6000

Preloved

Olive Tree Spa

Ipitou 5, Syntagma Second-hand clothing collected from the cities of Paris and Berlin

Orloff Spa Astir Beach

Aghias Eirinis 3, Monastiraki Tel: 210.545.1553 Great collection of merchandise ranging from the ‘20s to the ‘90s.

Hatzigianni Mexi 4, Hilton Tel: 210 724.4425

Retrosexual Vintage Shop

Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210.896.0028

Sofita

Iraklidon 35, Thissio Tel: 210.346.9904

Ananea Spa

Life Gallery Hotel 103 Thisseos Ave., Ekali, Tel: 211.106.7400

Arion Resort & Spa,

Astir Palace Complex, Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210.890.2000 Open daily for treatments from 09:00 to 21:30 (last appointment at 20:00)

Amerikaniki Agora

Yesterday's Bread

Athinas 30, Monastiraki 1st-2nd Floor Tel: 210 3217876

Kallidromiou 87-89, Tel: 210.881.1233 Imported second-hand clothes; individuality guaranteed

Bohbo

Ippokratous 39, Exarhia Tel: 210.338.9202

Gouadeloupi

Protogenous 12, Psyrri, Tel: 697.852.3933

Like Yesterday’s

Sports

Koumbari & Vas. Sofias Tel: 210.367.1045, 210.367.1002 www.benakishop.gr

Hiltonia Spa

Vintage

Benaki Museum Shop

Neophytou Douka 4, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.8321-3

Spas

Souvenirs

15 Dionysiou Areopagitou, Tel: 210.900.0911

Sarri 28, Psyrri, Tel: 210.331.1922 Vintage and contemporary style home décor and furniture

Museum of Cycladic Art Shop

Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the ancient Greece as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso

Acropolis Museum Shop

Mofu

Vasileos Georgiou 1, Syntagma Sq 210.333.0799

Concierge Athens, Ay.Theklas 8, Psirri, Tel: 213.036.9266 More than 50 Greek designers' unique, new imaginative and unexpected ideas that re-define the souvenir www.ohsosouvenir.com

Kessaris

Zolotas

GB Spa at Hotel Grande Bretagne

Valtetsiou 50 - 52, Kolonaki Tel: 210.924.5064 www.greeceisforlovers.com Tongue-in-cheek souvenirs for the discerning traveller

Protogenous 16, Monastiraki Tel: 216.700.4810 Vintage clothes mainly from the United States

Water Action Ltd

Vouliagmenis Avenue 12, Voula Tel: 210.895.8873 Mob: 694.476.1502 e-shop: www.water-action.gr e-mail: dspilioti@gmail.com

Retrosexual

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Badminton Theatre Goudi, Athens, Tel: 211.101.0020 Gialino Music Theatre Sygrou 143, N. Smyrni, Athens Tel: 210.9316.101-4 Pallas Theatre Voukourestiou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.321.3100

Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 210.321.0219 Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries.

Byzantine Churches many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox church) on Filellinon Street.

Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm.

Dress soberly when visiting.

Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works.

Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi.

Tel: 210.346.1589.

Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that markedthe boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of

Hellenic Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros. Tel: 212.254.0000. hellenic-cosmos.gr Frissiras Vlassis Museum of Contemporary European Art Monis Asteriou 3-7, Plaka, Tel: 210.323.4678 frissirasmuseum.com Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4, Athens .

Tel: 210.722.8321, cycladic.gr Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio, Tel: 210.346.1981 Apostolou Pavlou 37, Thissio Tel: 211.012.6486, herakleidon-art.gr Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni, Acropolis. Tel: 210.922.7260, lalaounis.com Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka.

Tel: 210.322.5582. jewishmuseum.gr Kerameikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.346.3552.

National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 National Gallery and Alexandros Soutsos Museum Vas. Konstantinou 50, Athens.

Tel: 210.723.5857, 210.723.5937 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens.

Tel: 210.363.5953, nma.gr The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.924.1043, theacropolismuseum.gr The National Art Gallery and Alexander Soutzos Museum Michalakopoulou 1 - Vas. Constantinou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.723.5857

Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos, Athens. Tel: 210.321.0185.

Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens.

Tel: 210.923.1502, spyrosvassiliou.org Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka, Tel: 210.368.9502, history-museum.uoa.gr Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue, Athens Tel: 210.367.1000, benaki.gr Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos.

Tel: 210.325.1311, benaki.gr Benaki Museum, Pireos Pireos 138 & Andronikou, Gazi Tel: 210.345.3111, benaki.gr Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.1027

Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli, Ag. Ioannis Rentis, Tel: 210.425.6999, allou.gr Children’s Museum Kydathinaeon 14, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2995.

Goulandris Museum of Natural History Levidou 13, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.801.5870, gnhm.gr Greek Folk Art Museum Daily Karaghiozis puppet shows!

Kydathinaeon 17, Plaka, Tel: 210.322.9031 Museum of Children’s Art Kodrou 9, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2621 childrensartmuseum.gr Summit The Wall Sport Climbing Center Ag. Athanasiou 12, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.0093, summit.gr Westin Kids Club Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.890.2000 www.westinathens.com/en/westin_kids_club/

Just for kids

Sites Theatres

Galleries

A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psyrri Tel: 210.321.4994 Artzone 42 42 Vas. Konstantinou, Athens, Tel: 210 725 9549 Astrolavos Dexameni Xanthippou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4342 Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200 Athens Art Gallery Glykonos 4, Dexameni Sq., Athens, Tel: 210 721 3938 Bernier/Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thissio, Tel: 210.341.3935 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxurgeio, Tel: 210.331.7527 Ekfrasi Gallery Valaoritou 9a, Tel: 210.360.7598 Eleni Marneri Galerie Lebessi 5-7& Porinou 16, Acropolis Tel: 210.8619.488 EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Kallirrois Av. & Amvr. Frantzi street Athens, Tel: 210.924.2111- 3 Gagosian Gallery Merlin 3, Athens, Tel: 210.364.0215 K-Art Gallery Sina 54, Athens, Tel: 211.401.3877 Kalfayan Gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.7679 Kourd Gallery Kassiani 2-4, Athens, Tel: 210.642.6573 Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 Thanassis Frisssiras Gallery Kriezotou 7, Athens, Tel: 210.364.0288 The Eynard Mansion Aghiou Konstantinou 20 & Menandrou, Athens, Tel: 210.322.1335 Titanium Yiayiannos Vas. Konstantinou 44, Pangrati, Tel: 210.729.7644 Xippas Gallery Sofokleous 53D, Athens, Tel: 210.331.9333 Zoumboulakis Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278/ Kriezotou 6, Syntagma, Tel: 210.363.4454

Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues.

Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for €1.50 and open daily from 8:30am.

Panathenian Stadium Kalimarmaro”was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden. Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the “birthplace of democracy”. Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory. Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries. Irodou Attikou Street. Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am-3pm.

Admission to the Agora and museum €3.50. Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma(Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changing-of-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour. Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian’s Arch. Mon-Sun 8am-7:30pm. €2.00. Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues, Tel: 210.922.6330. Theatre of Dionysus built in the 5th century BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed. Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight directions of the wind, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus.

Mon-Sun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora. Tel: 210.324.5220.

Museums

ASSOCIATION OF GUIDES Tel: 210.322.9705

Athinais Cultural Centre formerly a silk factory, this space has been converted into a large cultural centre. astorias 34-36, Votanikos. Tel: 210.348.0000.

B&M Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens Tel: 210.361.1206 Ileana Tounta Contemporary Art Centre 48 Armatolon-Klephton st. Athens, Tel: 210.643.9466 Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) live concerts, operas and other performances. Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali. Tel: 210.728.2333 Michael Cacoyannis Foundation Piraeus 206, Tavros, Tel: 210.341.8550 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou 107-109, Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000 Stavros Niarchos Foundation Vasilissis Sofias Ave. 86A The Art Foundation Normanou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.323.8757

Cultural venues

ORGANISED TOURS

ARION RESORT & SPA

ATHENS HILTON

COCO-MAT HOTEL NAFSIKA

DIVANI PALACE ACROPOLIS

The legendary beauty resort is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. Breathtaking views of the Saronic Gulf, elegant and sophisticated décor in all 123 rooms and suites, private swimming pools and beaches, spa and gourmet restaurants.

Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.890.2000

506 renovated rooms, two pools, convention facilities, business center, four restaurants, two bars and spa. The rooftop Galaxy Bar and Restaurant has gorgeous city views.

Vas. Sofias 46, Ilisia Tel: 210.728.1000

Located in Kifissia, the hotel offers an unforgettable experience thanks to COCOMAT‘s unique sleep systems in its 22 guest rooms, power breakfast, bike rids and herb garden.

Pellis 6, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.8027

Located at the base of the Acropolis and close to Plaka. Pool with bar, roof garden restaurant with Acropolis view.

Parthenonos 19-25 Makrigianni, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.928.0100

ATHENAEUM INTERCONTINENTAL ATHENS

COCO-MAT HOTEL

Crowne plaza

GRANDE BRETAGNE

543 rooms with renovated Deluxe rooms and suites. Dedicated business centre facilities and 3.500 m2 of extensive & flexible meeting space. New I-Spa and renovated gym. Award winning restaurants.

Syngrou 89-93, Neos Kosmos.

Tel: 210.920.6000

COCO-MAT Hotel Athens is an understated luxury, design hotel that sits in the heart of Kolonaki and offers relaxing sleep, delicious homemade breakfast and selected services for its esteemed guests. 36 Patriarchou Ioakeim str.

Tel: 210.723.0000

Newly renovated, at a very convenient location attracts both business and leisure travellers. Amenities include restaurant, bar, rooftop swimming pool, conference and business facilities, garage parking.

Michalakopoulou 50, Athens.

Tel: 210.727.8000

This city landmark is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. All 265 rooms and 56 suites are decorated with original artwork and antiques.

Reception areas, ballrooms, roof garden with Acropolis view. Luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools.

Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.333.0000

ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE HOTEL

CIVITEL ATTIK

DIVANI APOLLON PALACE & SPA

Holiday Inn Attica Avenue

66 state-of the-art rooms, 15 executive rooms and 3 suites. The acclaimed Etrusco Restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean cuisine.

Kallirois 32 & Petmeza, Neos Kosmos.

Tel: 210.921.5353

A tranquil first-class business, sports and family hotel set in the leafy green suburb of Maroussi, with a swimming pool, conference facilities and spacious restaurant with terrace.

Eptalofou 13 – 15, Maroussi. Τel: 210.610.1000

Located seaside with a magnificent view of the Saronic Gulf. All rooms with balconies and sea views. Indoor and outdoor pools, boutiques, beauty parlor, business centre and spa.

Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Kavouri Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.891.1100

New five-star property on Attica Avenue linking Athens with the international airport.

State-of-the art conference facilities, restaurant, two bars, pool and fitness center.

40.2 km Attica Road, between exits 17 & 18, Spata. Tel: 210.668.9000

ATHENS ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL

CIVITEL OLYMPIC

DIVANI CARAVEL

Holiday Suites

Located in historic Plaka beneath the Acropolis. Facilities include bar, restaurant, spa area with indoor swimming pool, business centre, garden and underground parking.

N. Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka.

Tel: 210.337.0000

Right across the Olympic Stadium, its Superior Rooms and Junior Suites are fitted with modern amenities, from free minibar to free wifi internet access and interactive tv.

Kifissias 2A & Pantanassis, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.680.1900

Situated close to major tourist attractions with, rooftop restaurant and swimming pool.

Vas. Alexandrou 2, Kesariani.

Tel: 210.720.7000

Elegant, all-suite hotel offering high standard accommodation. Each suite provides guests with a separate living room and kitchenette.

Arnis 4, Ilissia.

Tel: 210.727.8000

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KEFALARI SUITES

METROPOLITAN

RADISSON BLU

THEOXENIA PALACE HOTEL

Turn-of-the-century hotel in Kifissia, part of YES! Hotels.Themed suites with modern facilities.

Pentelis 1, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3333

Overlooking the Acropolis and the Saronic Gulf, the Metropolitan Hotel combines warm hospitality and urban luxury.

Syngrou Ave 385, Paleo Faliro Tel: 210.947.1000, metrpolitan@chandris.gr

Set across from the lush groves of Pedion tou Areos park, this contemporary hotel is a 4-minute walk from Victoria metro station and 2.9 km from the Acropolis.

Alexandras Avenue 10, Athens Tel: 210.889.4500

In an elegant neoclassical building, this hotel has a restaurant, gym, sauna and outdoor pool. Business centre, internet & conference facilities.

Filadelfeos 2, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3622

KING GEORGE

NEW

SEMIRAMIS

THE MARGI

Situated in the heart of the city, it’s 102 guest rooms and suites are elegantly furnished and natural wood floors. Meeting & Conference spaces, restaurants with panoramic views.

Vas. Georgiou A’ 3. Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.322.2210

Designed by the Campana brothers, NEW, the latest venture of YES! Hotels has 79 luxury rooms, including 18 Studios and 6 Junior Suites. NEW Taste, is the Hotel’s innovative restaurant concept.

Filellinon 16, Syntagma.

Tel: 210.3273000

YES! Hotel designed by Karim Rashid. 51 luxury rooms, 4 suites and 6 poolside bungalows. Ultra-trendy bar-restaurant.

Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari-Kifissia.

Tel: 210.628.4400

Boutique hotel with 90 spacious rooms and suites and great views to the sea and pine forests. Baku Restaurant offers a unique dining experience while Malabar and the Lobby lounge are perfect for a glass of champagne.

Close to the lake, beach and tennis courts.

Litous 11, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.892.9000

LIFE GALLERY

NJV athens plaza

SOFITEL ATHENS AIRPORT

THE WESTIN ATHENS

Modern architecture finds its expression in a minimalist designed building with discreet swimming pools, Zen gardens and ethnic elements. The hotel offers 29 spacious, luxury rooms, including 3 art studios and 2 suites and a spa and fitness centre.

Thiseos Avenue 103, Ekali. Tel: 211.106.7400

Boutique-style hotel with 182 rooms including 23 suites with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, ideally located in the heart of the business and shopping district within walking distance of Plaka. 2, Vas.Georgiou A’ St, Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210 3352400

Airport hotel. Executive floor, business center and conference facilities. Two bars and two restaurants. Health club and covered swimming pool.

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. Tel: 210.354.4000

Part of the Astir Palace Complex with 162 guest rooms and suites and views of the Saronic Gulf. Sea view lounges, trendy bars, fusion and Mediterranean cuisine restaurants and private gazebos by an Olympic-sized pool.

Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.890.2000

MELIÁ ATHENS

NOVOTEL

ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS HOTEL

ATHENS WAS

Located in the heart of Athens with 136 luxury rooms, spacious dining areas, a modern health club and views of historic monuments.

Chalkokondili 14 & 28th Octovriou, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.332.0100

Located in the center of Athens. Two Bars/ Restaurants at outdoor Rooftop Pool & lobby area, play area, gym, free indoor parking, free Wi-Fi and panoramic view from the Roof Garden.

4-6 Michail Voda Street, Vathis Square.

Tel: 210.820.0700

Located in the upper part of Kolonaki, not far from the Lycabettus (Lykavittos) funicular railway. Excellent restaurant, Le Grand Balcon. Rooftop swimming pool.

Kleomenous 2, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki.

Tel: 210.741.6000

Urban adventure, daring design, original architecture, energetic social hub and stylish comfort, AthensWas’ 21 rooms all feature verandas to take in a truly authentic Athenian experience.

Dionysiou Areopagitou 5, Tel:210.725.4871

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TwentyOne

A member of YES! Hotels. Modern design and simple architectural charm. 16 ergonomically designed rooms and 5 loft suites.

“21” Bar Restaurant for indoor and outdoor dining.

Kolokotroni 21, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.3521

Herodion

A five minute walk to Plaka. 90 guest rooms, meeting facilities and a lovely atrium bar-coffee shop.

Rovertou Galli 4, Makrigianni.

Tel: 210.923.6832

A CATEGORY AVA HOTEL & SUITES

HOTEL ELECTRA

Luxurious apartments and suites in Plaka. Magnificent views of the Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch and Zeus Temple. Short walk to Syntagma.

Lysikratous 9-11, Plaka.

Tel: 210.325.9000

Within walking distance from all archaeological sites, business and commercial districts. Includes bar, restaurant, lobby and meeting areas.

Ermou 5, Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.337.8000

amarilia hotel

PERISCOPE HOTEL

An excellent choice for business and leisure travellers. 100 renovated rooms and suites with great sea views, meeting and banqueting facilities, outdoor swimming pool.

Ag. Nikolaou 13 Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.899.0391

17 rooms, 4 junior suites and a super-lux penthouse suite. Part of YES! Hotels.

Haritos 22, Kolonaki.

Tel: 210.729.7200

Fresh Hotel

Philippos

Situated in the heart of old Athens within walking distance of the Plaka. Enjoy the Orange Bar, rooftop restaurant and pool.

Sophocleous 26 & Klisthenous, Omonoia.

Tel: 210.524.8511

Recently refurbished, all 50 rooms are wellappointed and comfortable. Good value for money.

Mitseon 3, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.922.3611-4

COSTA NAVARINO

SANTORINI

The Westin Resort Costa Navarino

MYSTIQUE

Inspired by old Messinian mansions, its 445 deluxe rooms, suites, 123 with private infinity pools, offer access to an extensive common pool areas, and reflect Westin’s soothing aesthetic.

Navarino Dunes Costa Navarino, Pilos Messinia, Tel: 27230.95000

Mystique is an 18 villa hotel, designed by Frank Le Fevbre.

Mystique, Oia. Tel. 22860.71114

The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort

The Tsitouras Collection Hotel

289 exquisitely appointed rooms and 32 suites with individual infinity pools.

Traditional Greek design with contemporary touches.

Navarino Dunes Costa Navarino, Pilos Messinia, Tel: 27230.96000

Art and hospitality are graciously combined in the unique backdrop of a dramatic landscape.

Firostefani, Santorini Tel: 22860.23747

evia

VEDEMA

THERMAE SYLLA wellness hotel

Voted one of the ten best spas in the world, it has 101 rooms, 7 Suites and 1 presidential suite with an incredible sea view. 2 restaurants offer traditional Mediterranean cuisine Posidonos 2, Edipsos, Evia. Tel: 22260.60100

PATMOS

Vedema has 45 rooms converted from a 100 year old neo-classical captain’s house and a private swiming pool for all the suites.

Vedema, Megalohori.

Tel: 22860.81796

SYROS

Patmos Aktis Suites & Spa

VILLA SELENA

A 5-star luxury hotel situated only a few steps from Grikos beach. Considered possibly the best located hotel in Patmos.

Patmos, Grikos Bay. Tel: 22470.32800

A luxurious five-star boutique hotel with suitably equipped rooms and suites to ensure a comfortable stay. The spacious terrace with a panoramic view is ideal for breakfast or drinks Tel. 22810 86007, www.villaselena.eu

insider athens | February 2017 67

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OTE video conference service

7.30am-10pm. Patission 85.

Tel: 210.883.8578, 210.822.0399

Commercial Office spaces Regus

Tel: 210.727.9000

Global Business Services Tel: 210.876.4876 Kifissias Ave. 90, Maroussi

COURIER SERVICES ACS

Asklipiou 25, Kryoneri Tel: 210.819.0000

DHL Tel: 210.989.0000 Express City S. Trikoupi 71, Athens Tel: 210.821.9959

Geniki Taxydromiki

Kifissou 14, Renti, Tel: 210.485.1100

Speedex

Seneka 24, 15klm Athinon-Lamias, Kifissia Tel: 801.110.0011

UPS

Driving School Highway

Amfitheas and Ag. Triados 30, 175 64 P. Faliro, Tel: 210.988.8098, 699.772.2777

Vlachos Bros

25th Martiou 20, Peristeri; Xenofodos 17, Peristeri; Afroditis 39, Ilion Tel: 210.574.4895, 210.576.9190

Relocation Agencies Allied Pickfords

Mourouzi 7, Athens, Tel: 210.610.4494

Athens Relocation Centre Zakynthou 10, Glyfada Tel: 210.965.0697

Attica Movers

Syngrou Ave. 19, Neos Kosmos, Tel: 210 922 7221

Celebrity International Movers Kapodistriou Ave. 102, Nea Ionia Tel: 210 272 0106

Corporate Relocations Athens Ag. Saranta 32, Nea Erithrea Tel: 210.800.3510

Orphee Beinoglou

27th km Old National Road Athens-Korinth Location Elefsinia, Elefsina Tel: 210.946.6100

Octopus Relocation Services

Ygeias 7, Marina Zeas, Tel: 210.459.9530

4klm Peanias-Markopoulou Av., Koropi Tel: 210.998.4000

TRANSLATIONS / INTERPRETING

Driving Schools in English

Global Business Services Kifisias 90, Maroussi, Tel: 210.876.4876

Trochokinisi Driving School

IBS - International Business Services

28th Oktovriou 126, Ambelokipi, Thessaloniki Tel: 2310.729.092

Michalakopoulou 29, Kaissariani Tel: 210.724.5541

MISSED THESE GREAT ISSUES?

Travel Agencies Travel Plan

Christou Lada 3, Athens Tel: 210.333.300, www.travelplan.gr

Amphitrion

Kyprou 46 & Ploutarhou, Dafni Tel: 210.900.6000, www.amphitrionholidays.gr

TravelPlanet24

Karagiorgi Servias 4, Syntagma Tel: 211 107 9684, www.travelplanet24.com

Mid-east Travel

Vas Sofias 105-107, Ampelokipoi Tel: Tel: 211.211.8888, www.mideast.gr

French Institute

Embassies Cultural Institutes

Business services

AUDIOVISUAL

Tel: 210.721.3039

BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.8105

CANADA Eth. Antistaseos 48, Halandri Tel: 210.727.3400

CHILE

Rigilis 12, Athens, Tel: 210.729.2647

CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.3282

CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.677.7033

CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei, Tel: 210.685.5550

CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A, Athens, Tel: 210.373.4800

Hellenic American Union

DENMARK Mourouzi 10, Athens,

Massalias 22, 10680 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900

British Council

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.671.9701 Tel: 210.725.6440

EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3, Syntagma, Tel: 210.361.8612

Kolonaki Square 17 106 73 Athens Tel: 210.369.2333

ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4, Ampelokipoi,

Instituto Cervantes

Tel: 210.725.5860

Mitropoleos 23, 105 57 Athens, Tel: 210.363.4117

Goethe Institut

Omirou 14-16, 100 33 Athens, Tel: 210.366.1000

Onassis Cultural Centre

Syngrou Ave. 107-109, 117 45 Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000

Instituto Italiano di Cultura Patission (28 Oktovriou) 47 Tel: 210.369.2333, 210.524.2646

ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Vas. Constantinou 14, Athens Tel: 210.756.4191-2

ARGENTINA

Vas. Sophias 59, Athens Tel: 210.724.4158

ARMENIA

Tel: 210.747.5660

FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens, FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.339.1000

FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychico.

Tel: 210.674.9585

GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24,

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.2186

GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Athens, Tel: 210.728.5111

HUNGARY Karneadou 25, Kolonaki Tel: 210.725.6800

INDIA Kleanthous 3, Mets, Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2345

IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16, Patisia, Tel: 210.674.1436

IRAQ Mazaraki 4, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.8276

IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7, Mets, Tel: 210.723.2405

ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1,

K. Palaiologou 95, Athens, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145

P. Psychico, Tel: 210.670.5500

AUSTRALIA

JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri.

ITALY Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.361.7260

Kifisias & Alexandras, Ampelokipoi, Tel: 210.870.4000

Tel: 210.670.9900

AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Av. 4,

Tel: 210.674.4161

Athens, Tel: 210.725.7270

AZERBAIJAN

Skoufa 10, Athens, Tel: 210.363.2721

68 insider athens | February 2017

BRAZIL Vassilis Sofias 23, Athens

CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6,

ALGERIA

send us an e-mail at: subscriptions@insider-magazine.gr or give us a call at: 210.729.8634

Hatzikosta 3, Athens, Tel: 210.641.0788

Sina 31, 10680 Athens Tel: 210.339.8600

Tel: 210.687.6200

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BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

BANGLADESH

JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychico.

KAZAKHSTAN Imittou 122, Papagou Tel: 210.654.7765

KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens.

Tel: 210.698.4080

Marathonodromon 119, Palaio Psychiko Tel: 210.672.0250

KUWAIT Marathonodromon 27,

BELGIUM

LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychico,

Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.0314

P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3593 Tel: 210.675.5873

LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49, Kolonaki

TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8, Athens,

Goudi. Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535

LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38, Athens

UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei, Tel:

Private Hospitals

LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofi-

UAE Kifissias Av. 290 & N. Paritsi 2,

Advanced Medical Services, Symmetria Building

MALTA

UK

MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14, Kolonaki,

USA

MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei.

URUGUAY

MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5,

VATICAN

NETHERLANDS Vas Konstantinou 5-7,

VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19,

NIGERIA Streit 17, Filothei Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens

VIETNAM Yakinthon 50, Psychico,

tou Vamva 2, SyntagmaTel: 210.725.6400 V. Sofias 96, Athens, Tel: 210.778.5138 Tel: 210.729.4780

Tel: 210.699.0660

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.4210 Mets, Tel: 210.725.4900

Tel: 210.724.6173

PAKISTAN Loukianou 6, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.729.0122

PALESTINE Giassemion 13,

P. Psychico. Tel.: 210.672.6061-3

PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias,

Piraeus, Tel: 210.428.6441

PERU

Semitelou 2, Athens, Tel: 210.779.2761

PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychico.

Tel: 210.672.1837

POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.679.7700

PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784

QATAR Perikleous 2 & Kifissias Av. 212, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.725.5031 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7,

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.8875

RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28,

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.5235

SAUDI ARABIA Palaiologhou 2 & Agias

Annis, Halandri, Tel: 210.671.6911

SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Athens, Tel: 210.777.4344

SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou. Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.677.1980

SLOVENIA Kifissias Av. 280 & Dimokra-

tias 1, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.0090-091

SOUTH AFRICA

Kifissias 60, Maroussi. Tel: 210.610.6645

SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, Plaka, Tel: 210.921.3123

SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7, Athens, Tel: 210.726.6100

SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.723.0364-6

TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.5122 Representative office THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 &

Kyprou, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.9065

210.680.0230

Tel: .210.677.0220

Ploutarchou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.727.2600 Vas. Sofias 91, Athens, Tel: 210.721.2951 Menandrou 1, Kifissia, Tel: 210.361.3549 Mavili 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3598

P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.9169

Tel. 210.612.8733, 210.675.3080.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Emergencies

Tel. 210.729.4483

Tel: 210.726.3000

Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016.

They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer.

Ipirou 1, Athens.

Duty Pharmacies

Call 1434, Also check newspapers for listings.

Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434

Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777

Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coast Guard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000

ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 1158

PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon,

Ethnikis Antistaseos 66, Halandri.

Tel: 210.677.3573 www.symmetria.gr

CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS

Asklipiou St. 31, Athens, Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000 www.centralclinic.gr

EUROCLINIC

Diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre.

Athanasiadou 9, Athens, (near Mavili Sq.), Tel: 210.641.6600

EURODENTICA

Specialized dental care Patision 150, Athens, Tel: 210.866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi, Athens, Tel: 210.619.5760-1, El. Venizelou 162, Kallithea, Athens, Tel: 210.956.5365

YGEIA

Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi, Tel: 210.686.7000, www.ygeia.gr

IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER)

Areos 36, P. Faliro.

Tel: 210.989.2100-20. Distomou 5-7, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.8100

METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL

Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El. Venizelou, N. Faliro. Tel: 210.480.9000 www.metropolitan-hospital.gr

IASO

Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.618.4000

MITERA

Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.686.9000

public Hospitals ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL

Vas. Pavlou 1, Voula. Tel: 210.895.8301-4

EVANGELISMOS

Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.720.1000

KAT HOSPITAL

Nikis 2, Kifissia, Tel: 210.628.0000 Specialized trauma unit.

TZANNEIO

Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus, Tel: 210.451.9411-9

Paediatric Hospitals

PHYSICIANS

EUROCLINIC PAEDON

Ioannis Bitzos, MD

Health

Tel: 210.729.4356

Antheon 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.671.7590

Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900

PAEDON AGIA SOFIA HOSPITAL Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.746.7000

(ENGLISH SPEAKING) Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery, Harilaou Trikoupi 62, Kifissia, Tel: 210.808.0682

heart & vascular centrE E.N. Deliargyris, MD FACC FSCAI Interventional cardiologist. Southern Athens.

Vakchou 2 & Vas. Kostantinou, Tel: 210.897.6276, www.heartline.gr

Lia D. Papathanakou

Dermatologist – Venerologist Adult / Pediatric Dermatology Patriarchou Ioakim 44, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4502, 6974355942.

Newspapers & Magazines

English media

TUNISIA

Tel: 210.674.2120

Athens Insider, the bi-monthly magazine for Greece in English

The International New York Times

carries the English version of

Kathimerini

Radio Athens International Radio 104,4

Good Morning Athens at 10am, English programs at 11am, music programs on weekdays at 9pm, weekends at 1pm.

Peiraios 100, Athens, Tel: 210.341.1610

GREEK LANGUAGE

Schools

LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychico,

The Athens Center

48 Archimidous Street, Mets, Athens 11636, Greece Tel: 210.701.5242

CELT Athens

77 Academias Street, 106 78 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210.330.1455

Greek House

Dragoumi 7, 145 61 Kifissia, Tel: 210.808.5186

Hellenic American Union

22 Massalias str., 106 80 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900

Omilo Greek Language And Culture Panagi Tsaldari 13 (4th floor), 15122 Maroussi, Tel: 210.612.2706

International SCHOOLS St Catherine's British Embassy School

Sofoklis Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi Tel: 210.282.9750

St. Lawrence College Anemon St, Koropi, Tel: 210.891.7000

A.J. Kanellopoulos, MD

American Community Schools of Athens

Dimitris Linos, MD FACS

Byron College

Eye Surgeon, Tsoha 17, Athens, Tel: 210.747.2777 General Surgeon, Kifissias 227, Kifissia, Tel: 210.612.5001-2

Aghias Paraskevis Ave. 129, Halandri, Tel: 210.639.3200 Filolaou 7, Gerakas, Tel: 210.604.7722

insider athens | February 2017 69

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New tel: 138, Tel. (defective): 129 OTE customer service: 134 International call information (English, French & German): 169 www.ote.gr

Road Assistance ELPA: 104

Public Power Corporation (DEI)

www.ika.gr

Greek Manpower Employment Organization (OAED)

www.oaed.gr, Tel: 210 99 89 000

Public Services

Paramythia

Cycladon 11, Glyka Nera, Tel: 210.600.3196

Play and Learn

Kassaveti 22, Kifissia, Tel: 210.801.1428

German kindergartens

Administration Information Center (paperwork assistance) on weekdays 8am-3pm (KEP): Tel: 177, ww.kep.gov.gr

O mikros Antonis

Tel: 148, www.hnms.gr

Scuola maternal italiana de Atene

Water Supply & Sewage (EYDAP)

Citizen’s Rights Ombudsman:

Il Mulino magico

Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia, Tel: 210.202.0274 Troados 23, Ag Paraskevi, Tel: 210.600.3148

German School in Athens

Dimokritou 6 & Germanikis Scholis Athinon Maroussi, Tel: 210 6199260-5

Greek German School

25 Martiou & Vernardou, Vrylissia Tel: 210.682.0566

International School of Athens Xenias and Artemidos, Kifissia, Tel: 210.623.3888

Lycée Franco-Hellénique Eugène Delacroix

Chlois & Trikalon, Ag. Paraskevi Tel: 211.300.9121

Scuola Statale Italiana

Odos Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia Tel: 210.228.2720

St Catherine's British Embassy School

Sofoklis Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi Tel: 210.282.9750

St. Lawrence College

Anemon St, Koropi, Tel: 210.891.7000

Universities University of Indianapolis

Ipitou 9, Athens, Tel: 210.323.6647

DEREE

Gravias 6, Aghia Paraskevi, Tel: 210.600.9800

ALBA Graduate Business School Athinas Ave. & Areos 2A, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210.896.4531

English kindergartens

International Kindergartens

Aghias Ioulianis, Pallini, Tel: 210.607.1700

The Cottage Kindergarten Psaron 74, Halandri Tel: 210.682.7629

Early Learning

Rizountos 53, Elliniko Tel: 210.961.8763

Hopscotch International Kindergarten Ag. Triandos 93, Vari Tel: 210.965.3985

Learning Steps

Ath. Diakou 81 & Ydras 5, Kifissia, Tel: 210.620.5818

Melina’s Kindergarten

Harilaou Trikoupi 16, Kifissia Tel: 210.801.2719

Stephanou Delta, P. Psychico Tel: 210.679.8100

Benakeios Library

Anthimou Gazi 2, Athens Tel: 210.367.1027

British Council Library Kolonaki Sq. 17, Kolonaki Tel: 210.363.3211/5

French Institute Library

Prince Allen The English Nursery School Lysimahou 8, Vari Tel: 210.965.6800

French kindergartens Au petit bonheur 50 Iraklitou, Glyfada, Tel: 210 9658 207

Mary Poppins

Spartis 36 & Harilaou Trikoupi, Kifissia Tel: 210 80 11 570 4, Kodrou, Filothei, Tel: 210.677.3803

Tel: 210.929.0200

MASTERCARD

Tel: 00.800.1188.703.03

VISA

Tel: 00.800.1163.803.04 Post offices operate weekdays 8am-2pm. The main post offices in Athens are located at SYNTAGMA SQUARE and OMONIA SQUARE at Aeolou 100 and open weekdays 7:30am-8pm, Sat 7:30am-2pm, and Sun 9am1:30pm.

Country Code: 30 City Code: 210 international calls first dial 00,

then the country code.

To call from a Public pay- phone buy a phone card at the kiosks.

Prepaid mobile phone cards (SIM cards) are available for €5 at kiosks, post offices, mini markets and mobile phone company stores.

German Archaeological Institute Library Pheidiou 1, Athens Tel: 210.362.0270

Goethe Institute Library Hellenic American Union Greek Library

Lakonias 4-6, Voula Tel: 210.895.9654

DINERS CLUB

31 Sina St, Athens Tel: 210.362.4301

Peter Pan

Business College of Athens

70 insider athens | February 2017

Athens College Library

Omirou 14-16, Athens Tel: 210.360.8111

Vougliameni, Tel: 210.967.1970

Les Alouettes

Tatoiou 2 & Othonos 77, Kifissia Tel: 210.808.8008

Souedias 54, Athens Tel: 210.723.6313

Peek-a-boo PreSchool

American University of Athens Kifisias & Sochou 4, Neo Psichiko, Tel: 210.725.9301

Libraires

American School of Classical Studies Blegen

Campion School

Tel: 210.324.4975

Italian kindergartens

Weather Attica,

5 Hatziyiannis Mexis (near the Hilton Hotel), Tel: 210 72 89 640

AMERICAN EXPRESS

Barbayiannis, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.2527

In case of power failure: Tel: 210.523.9939 www.dei.gr

In case of water cut: Tel: 1202, www.eydap.gr

LOST OR STOLEN CREDIT CARDS

Money

Social Security & Health insurance (IKA)

Phone Post

Telephone & Internet Services (OTE)

Masalias 22 (7th floor), Athens Tel: 210.362.9886

Italian Archeological Institute Library Parthenonos 14-16, Acropolis Tel: 210921.4024

Italian Institut Library Patision 47, Omonia

National Library

Tzavella 25, Syntagma, Tel: 210.382.0657

Nordic Library

7 Kavalotti St, Makrigianni Tel: 210.924.9210, 210.924.9211

advertise in our Advertise business here and on our website: listings, andyour reach www.insider-publications.com thousands of customers

tram

Tel: 210.998.0222

AAA Royal Prestige Tel: 210.988.3221

From the Port of Piraeus

Alitalia Tel: 210.998.8888 American

Convecta Travel Agency & Limousine Services

Tram itineraries are only from Syntagma to S.E.F (in Neo Faliro) and from Syntagma to Asklipio Voulas. From Monday to Thursday, trams operate from 5.am until midnight and non-stop from Friday morning to Sunday midnight. www.tramsa.gr

Air Taxis (Helicopter and

Limousines Kacaya

TAXIS

Tel: 210.361.3373

plane charters) Tel: 210.938.4149

British Airways Tel: 210.353.0453 Continental Tel: 210.353.4312 Cyprus Airways Tel: 210.353.4100 Easy Jet Tel: 211.198.0013 El Al Tel: 210.934.1500-1 Emirates Tel: 210.933.3400 Etihad Tel: 210.324.1010 Iberia www.iberia.com/gr Lufthansa Tel: 210.617.5200 Olympic Airways Tel: 801.801.0101 Qatar Airways Tel: 210.950.8700 Singapore Tel: 210.994.2567 Swiss / Crossair Tel: 210.617.5320 Tunisair Tel: 210.969.6496 Turkish Tel: 210.988.5700

Airport

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport Spata. Tel: 210.353.0000, 210.353.1000. www.aia.gr

24 HOUR VIP TRANSPORT SERVICE

WSW Skycap Services at Athens Airport provides Meet & Greet, Baggage Hauling and Transport Service.

Tel: 210.353.0100 www.skycap.gr For info about the public bus lines please check our section public transport

Car rental

Ada Rent-a-Car

Astra Limousine Service

Tel: 210.922.0333/807.9996

Tel: 210.322.5090 Tel: 210.323.4120

Combined tickets for metro, buses and trolleys (€1,40) are available from metro stations and central ticket booths, valid within 90 mins of validation for all public transport - except the airport service, which costs 8€.

EXPRESS BUS from/to airport

X93 Kifisos Intercity Bus Station - Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to the intercity bus (KTEL) terminals KIFISOS and LIOSION X95 Syntagma – Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to Syntagma Square at Athens city center.

X96 Peiraias – Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to Piraeus central passenger port terminals.

X97 Dafni Metro Station – Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to DAFNI metro station.

Tickets available at the Arrivals Hall; validate on board. Fare is €6 One-way travel time estimates**: X93 (65’ min), X95 (70’ min), X96 (90’ min), X97 (70’ min).

For further information dial 185 or visit www.oasa.gr, www.ametro. gr. For info on trains visit www.proastiakos.gr

Arena Tel: 210.894.6883,

HELLENIC RAILWAYS ORGANIsATION

Auto Union

Karolou 1. Tel: 210.529.7002, www.ose.gr

Tel: 210.322.0087 210.614.7400

Tel: 210.602.0162

Avis Tel: 210.322.4951 Budget Tel: 210.921.4771-3 Europcar Tel: 210.924.8810-8

Hertz Tel: 210.998.2000 Michael Stamou Luxury

Rentals

Tel: 210.922.2442/43

Sixt Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.570.6895, 210.922.0171

ATHENS METRO Line 1 (Piraeus-Kifissia) 5am-midnight, Line 2 (Anthoupoli-Elliniko) 5.30ammidnight, Line 3 (Aghia Marina-Doukissis Plakentias) 5.30am-midnight Line 3 (Aghia Marina-Airport) 5.30am22.52pm and 06.30am-23.30pm.

The last itinerary is 2 hours later on Friday and Saturday night than it is during the week. www.ametro.gr

Taxis from the airport have a flat rate of €35 to Central Athens. Between midnight and 5am double tariff applies.

Note: If you suspect that you have been overcharged, you can call the tourist police 0n 171

INTERCITY BUSES Terminal 1: Buses for Igoumenitsa,

Ioannina, Kavala, Loutraki, Patra, the Peloponese, and Thessaloniki. Kifissou 100, Tel: 210.512.4910-1, www.ktel.org

Terminal 2: Buses for Delphi, Evia,

Galaxidi, Karpenisi, Katerini, Lamia, Livadia, Thiva and Volos. Liosion 260.

For KTEL itineraries all over Greece call 14505

RADIO TAXI Enotita Tel: 210.645.9000 Ermis Tel: 210.411.5200 Ikarus Tel: 210.515.2800 Kifissia Tel: 210.801.4000 Piraeus Tel: 210.418.2333 Radio Taxi Glyfada

Northern and Eastern Aegean Islands: Gates A & B Chios, Ikaria, Lesvos, Samos, Dodecanese Islands: Gate E Kalymnos, Kos Leros, Patmos, Rhodes, Saronic Gulf Islands: Gates G & E Aegina, Hydra, Poros, Spetses, Crete: Gate A Aghios Nikolaos, Chania, Iraklio, Kastelli (Kissamos), Rethymno, Cycladic Islands: Gates B, G & D Astipalea, Folegandros, Kimolos, Kithnos, Milos, Serifos, Sifnos: Gate B Amorgos, Donoussa, Ios, Iraklia, Koufonissi, Mykonos, Santorini, Schinoussa, Syros, Tinos: Gates G&D Naxos, Paros: Gate Gtt

Superfast Ferries Daily departures, Greece - Italy: from Patras and Igoumenitsa to Ancona and Bari Head office: 23-125 Syngrou Avenue & 3 Torva Street 11745 Athens. Tel:210.891.9000 Reservations: Athens: 210.891.9130 Thessaloniki: 2310.560.700, www. superfast.com

Hellenic Seaways 210 41 99 000 www.hellenicseaways.gr

Anek Lines www.anek.gr Domestic lines: 210 41 97 420 International lines: 210 41 97 430 Minoan Lines www.minoan.gr Tel: 801 11 75 000

Tel: 210.960.5600

There is a booking fee of €2 added to the meter, and a €3,40 + VAT for a pre-arranged meeting. For PET taxis there is an extra charge of €5.

YACHT CHARTERS A1 Yacht Trade Consortium

Akti Themistokleous 8, Marina Zeas, Piraeus. Tel: 210.458.7100

Ghiolman Yachts

Seaports

Tel: 210.965.2300-22

Public transport

Air Malta

Ferries

LIMOUSINES

Airlines

Aegean Tel: 801.11.20000 Air France KLM

Sea ports Lavrio Tel: 22920.27711, 22920.22089 Piraeus Tel: 210.422.6000-4 Rafina Tel: 22940.22300, 22940.28888

Ferries

Ferries run year-round. For information on seasonal schedules contact a travel agent or call the Port Police on 210.422.6000

Filellinon 7, Syntagma. Tel: 210.323.3696

Northstar

Poseidonos 9 & Achilleos, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.988.4000

PGA

Shipping Posidonos 61, P. Faliro.

Tel: 210.985.9400

Seahorse Alkyonidon 83 (Marina), Voula. Tel: 210.895.2212

Seascape Poseidonos Ave. 29,

Alimos.

Tel/Fax: 210.985.8301

Valef Yachts Pl. Chatzikonstanti 2, Piraeus. Tel:210.451.2010 Vernicos Yachts Posidonos 11, Kalamaki. Tel: 210.985.0122-8

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Join the Sky High Club Every year on Clean Monday, Greeks young and old can be seen on any available patch of green – or stretch of beach - indulging in those two traditional start-of-Lent activities: kite-flying and picnicking. Setting a kite in the air – and then releasing it – is said to symbolise the freeing of the body from sin. In a similarly purifying spirit, no meat or fish must be consumed on Clean Monday, which this year falls on February 27. Customary Clean Monday delicacies include taramasalata (cod-roe paste), olives, salads, baked beans, grilled octopus, a flat unleavened loaf called lagana and sweet halva. Although many Athenians take a day trip to the hills or beaches around Attica, a popular kite-flying hub in the centre is Filopappou Hill (pictured).

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