Insider 101 February 2012

THE CITY MAGAZINE OF

February 2012 Year 10. Issue 101 €4.50 ISSN 1790-3114

insider athens

| February 2012

ATHENS

New beginnings Insider’s Think Tank / Peter Economides on Rebranding Greece / The Greek in Bollywood Arachova getaways / The Hammam / New restaurants: Bo Botrini and Avocado Plus interviews with: The Serbian Ambasssador to Greece, Dragan Zupanjevac, Christophe Lemarié of Pernod Ricard Hellas and Nikos Bolias of Travel Plan PLUS: ARTS, ENTERTAINMENT, FOOD & WINE, NIGHTLIFE, SHOPPING, NOVELTIES, MAPS AND MORE

contributors Peter Economides

Peter Economides is a brand strategist who has lived and worked in South Africa, Hong Kong, Greece, Mexico, New York, and now Athens. Owner and founder of Felix BNI based in Athens, Peter is a former Executive Vice President and Worldwide Director of Client Services at McCann Erickson Worldwide where he was responsible for the global management of the $1.8 billion Coca-Cola advertising account and as Head of Global Clients at TBWA\Worldwide, he structured and rolled out the global “Think Different” campaign following the return of Steve Jobs to Apple. Following his inspirational speech on rebranding Greece that fired the imagination of Greeks, Peter designs Insider’s cover in this issue.

Alexia is half-French, half-Greek and lives between Paris and Athens. Alexia has been a correspondent for French newspapers such as Le Figaro and for French television channels such as France 24, TV5 Monde, Canal+ and RTL, and also writes for the Greek daily, Kathimerini. Alexia has been contributing regularly to Bonjour Athènes and Insider for the past seven years.

Nick Malkoutzis

Deputy-editor of Kathimerini English Edition and Athens Plus, Nick moved to Greece from London in 2003 after spending part of his childhood in Athens. He has worked for the BBC and the Associated Press and jointly set up Archon Media. Nick has a passion for sports and tries to satisfy this by playing 5-a-side football every week. He has been contributing his political and social analyses to Insider every month for the past four years.

Marq was born in The Netherlands, where he graduated as a theatre director from the Utrecht School of Arts.

He moved to Greece in 1999, working as a music events organiser. He is now a freelance writer, and as a concert photographer covers a wide selection of festivals and shows. Marq has covered everything from music to spa reviews and diplomacy for Insider and has been a regular writer with the magazine for the past four years.

Aris Roupinas

Eliza Mouzenidou

Eleni studied literature & visual culture in Spain and the UK and has since worked for several cultural organizations in Greece. Fluent in several languages, she loves photography, is a keen runner, likes walking around the city and enjoys a cup of good coffee. Eleni joined Insider in December 2011 and has already made a mark in this issue.

Half-French, half-American, Marie-Diane studied in Paris (Sciences Po, HEC) and in Hong-Kong (Chinese University). She has lived and worked in France, India, Croatia and now Greece. Passionate about gourmet cuisine and opera, she will be publishing her first novel, set in Patmos, this spring.

2 insider athens | February 2012

Marq Riley

Aris is an independent photojournalist and has been covering the very colourful political and social life of Greece for the past two decades. He founded and runs the photo agency Photo Press News and is co-founding member of the photographer’s society, Phoebus - an organization that protects the intellectual rights of photographers. He has also participated as an artist in group and solo exhibitions in Athens, Vienna and other metropolises in Europe.

Eliza Mouzenidou was born and raised in Athens. She studied Technology of Graphic Arts and graduated with the highest GPA amongst her colleagues. For the last four years she has been working as a graphic designer and has attended numerous seminars on the subject. Her true passion is photography and during her free time she enjoys playing tennis.

Eleni Bakagianni

Alexia Kefalas

Marie-Diane Messirel

contents

10

Features From Russia with love 9 A review of the St. Petersburg school of art A link to the past A poignant encounter with Chief Tony Hunt, one of the greatest living artists of the Pacific Northwest Coast

14 18

Departments

10

Eternal Allies 14 Dragan Zupanjevac, the Serbian Ambassador to Greece on the unique bond between Serbia and Greece Recreating Greece 18 Inspirational brand strategist Peter Economides on rebuilding faith in ourselves as a nation.

A Galaxy of Thoughts 22 Ten Athenians meet for an impromptu discussion on Greece’s prospects at the Galaxy bar Cultural Renaissance 28 Four cultural initiatives provide a positive counterpoint to the uncertainty hanging over Athens Greek Masala 34 Nikos Andritsakis takes Bollywood by storm bringing his Greek sensibilities on the Indian screen

Spirited Conversations 38 Christophe Lemarié, CEO of Pernod Ricard Hellas raises a toast to potential opportunities in the spirits industry over lunch at Milos Taking Travel a Notch Higher 40 Nikos Bolias, General Manager of Travel Plan, the leading tour operator in Greece, speaks about initiatives to explore new markets Anemolia 42 Anemolia is a terrific wintry getaway in Arachova, ideal for family ski holidays Bathing Beauty 44 For a sublime, timeless, decadent experience, the Hammam in Thissio is the answer Anything but a kitchen nightmare!

Marie-Diane Messirel enjoys a meal at charismatic chef Ettore Botrini’s eponymous new restaurant in Halandri

On the Town

4

Diplomacy

14

Culture

9, 10

Talking Point

18

Debate

22

Art and the City

28

Cinema

34

Lunch Date

38

Travel

40, 42

Wellness

44

46

Peas and Love 48 Insider reviews Avocado, the new vegetarian restaurant on Nikis street.

Gastronomy

46, 48

Restaurant Index 50 Area-wise listings 51 Kaleidoscope

72

22 28 34 44 48 Cover picture: Conceived and designed

by Peter Economides, Felixbni

insider athens | February 2012 3

Arts & events

01

until

02

13 february

CAMP – Contemporary Art Meeting Point Lost in Athens 01 Right in the centre of Athens, eighteen artists comment on the experience of being lost in an ever-changing city that has become an unknown territory to its inhabitants It is a tribute to old habits – to try and preserve a sense of what used to be. www.campoint.gr

4 insider athens | February 2012

until

14 february

15

until

february

Eleni Marneri Gallery

Onassis Cultural Centre

‘Current’: Contemporary Jewellery 02 ‘Current’ brings together the work of nine contemporary jewellery artists from four countries – Japan, Italy, Colombia and Greece el. marneri in cooperation with Orizzonti , a group of contemporary jewellers from Japan and two contemporary jewelers from Greece, Rallou Katsari and Poly Nikolopoulou, present the exhibition Current.

The exhibition hopes to address the basic question: “Where is the world going?” The title of the exhibition, Current, means not only the flow of ideas but also what’s happening in the world now. Both those concepts are intended to be expressed through jewellery. www.elenimarneri.com

Robert Mapplethorpe The Onassis Cultural Centre devotes an exhibition to the celebrated American photographer Robert Mapplethorpe in collaboration with the Mapplethorpe Foundation in New York. Known for his black and white portraits and male nudes, the photographer was also a portrait specialist and had a particular fondness for extreme close-ups of flowers.

The hundred works on display at the Onassis Cultural Centre represent these three loves.

Headlining the American avantgarde movement, the artist lived life at a hundred miles an hour.

Two documentaries broadcast in conjunction with the exhibition reflect his fascinating life and his prolific career as a photographer. www.sgt.gr

16 february

Megaron – The Athens Concert Hall National Theatre Live: Travelling Light In collaboration with the British Embassy & the British Council in Athens, Megaron will be screening Travelling Light. Following Vincent in Brixton and The Reporter, Nicholas Wright’s new play is a funny and fascinating tribute to Eastern European immigrants who became major players in the golden age of Hollywood. Directed byNicholas Hytner, with the award-winning Antony Sher. www.megaron.gr

On the town For location details see listings on page 63

03

04

18

until

february

18 1819 19 &

until

february

until

february

EkfrasiGallery

Fizz Gallery

Megaron Mousikis

Eva Mela 03 This exhibition focuses on the works of painter Eva Mela – a personal tour of her favourite natural landscapes that have inspired and influenced her compositions. www.ekfrasi-art.gr

Andreas Sitorego: Placenta 04 Mixed-media artist Andreas Sitorego, born in Italy and working in Greece, presents his latest work. ‘Placenta’ is a strong and evocative mixed-media commentary on the contrasts between the ‘rich’ North and ‘poor’ South, and the human and environmental consequences of geopolitical division. www.fizzgallery.gr

Ballet Gala Ballet Academies of the Bolshoi Theatre, The Royal Ballet, Covent Garden and Teatro alla Scala, Milan - for the first time ever, three of the world’s leading ballet schools come together to stage four special performances. An invitation not to be missed by any ballet lover, young or old. Four magnificent performances of ballets from a classic and contemporary repertory. www.megaron.gr

february

Benaki Museum – Pireos Street Annexe Sorogas: 50 Years of Painting A retrospective exhibition dedicated to the work of Greek painter Sotiris Sorogas.

Stones, dark openings, horses, ancient bas-reliefs, portraits, old pieces of wood, remnants of old machinery, wrecks of coaches, rusted surfaces constitute some of his most familiar themes. www.benaki.gr

insider athens | February 2012 5

Arts & events

05

until

06

25 february

until

25 february

until

26 0826 february

february

Cervantes Institute

Siakos.Hanappe Gallery

Frissiras Museum

3137 – Mavromihali 137

Josep Maria Riera i Arago: Aguafuertes Josep Maria Riera i Arago is one of the most established names in the contemporary Spanish artistic scene. His work is a study on the world of machines – airplanes, zeppelins, submarines – and the concept of movement.

The Cervantes Institute in collaboration with the Ramon Llull Institute and the Embassy of Spain in Greece present for the first time in Athens a retrospective of his works from the years 1998-2003. atenas.cervantes.es

Dimitris Skalkotos: Fotagogos / Lightwell 05 Dimitris Skalkotos, accomplished marble sculptor from the island of Tinos, creates a poem through space, displaying a string of evocative words carved in marble throughout the lower floor of the gallery.

The words as a sequence form a story whereas their individual shapes stress the deeper meaning of each one of them. On the ground floor, the central piece, the ‘Fotagogos’, is a large grey marble sculpture dressed with mirrors that reflect a thousand corners. www.siakos-hanappe.com

Dino Valls A journey through Spanish magic realism Frissiras Museum presents a retrospective exhibition of forty works by the contemporary Spanish painter Dino Valls entitled “Dino Valls: A journey through Spanish magic realism”. Dino Valls’ painting is primarily characterized by the way in which he manages to manipulate the concept of time, whether it is historical (real) or fictional, contributing to the deeply personal character of his work. Nevertheless, what truly captivates the viewer is his gripping realism whose disturbing veracity transcends the limits of reality and ends up utterly fictitious. www.frissirasmuseum.com

Versailles 06 Four young artists (Paky Vlassopoulou, Chrysanthi Koumianaki, Grigoris Markatos, and Kosmas Nikolaou)draw inspiration from the palace of Versailles and the European traditions of landscape painting and landscape design, from Baroque era gardens to contemporary green public spaces.

Their work explores the contrast between luxury and austerity, as well as issues of cultural memory and history. http://www.facebook.com/ events/278785565517849/

6 insider athens | February 2012

On the town

07

08

28 29 01 &

until

february

march

10

until

march

Onassis Cultural Centre

Bernier/Eliades Gallery

Gagosian Gallery Athens

Rosas/Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker: Fase Thirty years on from her first work (Asch, 1980), choreographer and dancer Anne Teresa de Keersmaeker remains one of the most outstanding figures in contemporary dance. Having studied at Maurice Béjart’s Mudra school and at the Tisch School of the Arts in New York, De Keersmaeker shot to prominence with just her second work, Fase , set to the music of the celebrated American composer Steve Reich. The mathematical precision of the choreography, which is based on small movements and a game played out between the dancers’ bodies and their shadows, and the fluidity and purity of the perpetual motion creates a hypnotically beautiful dancescape. www.sgt.gr

Jonathan Meese 07 Tokyo-born Meese combines photography, paintings, impasto and collage techniques to create compelling images. Having playfully ‘distorted’ images of Stalin, Hitler and Mussolini amongst others, Meese’s emblematic works form part of the permanent collections of the Pompidou Center in Paris, the MoMA in New York and the Tate Modern in London. www.bernier-eliades.gr

Damien Hirst: The Complete Spot Paintings 1986-2011 08 Gagosian Gallery presents “The Complete Spot Paintings 1986–2011” by Damien Hirst.

The exhibition will take place at once across all of Gagosian Gallery’s eleven locations in New York, London, Paris, Los Angeles, Rome, Athens, Geneva, and Hong Kong from January 12, 2012. Conceived as a single exhibition in multiple locations, The exhibition makes use of this demographic fact to determine the content of each exhibition according to locality. Included in the exhibition are more than 300 paintings, from the first spot on board that Hirst created in 1986; to the smallest spot painting comprising half a spot and measuring 1 x 1/2 inch (1996); to a monumental work comprising only four spots, each 60 inches in diameter. www.gagosian.com

until

15 march

Badminton Theatre – Varieté Stage The Vagina Monologues Following last season’s success at the Theatre of Neos Kosmos, the multi-cultural artistic team “Tana” returns to the Badminton Theatre to present The Vagina Monologues by Eve Ensler. Under the careful watch of director, Agata Darlasi, American actress Monica McShane, English actress Isobel Pravda and Greek actress Christina Mitropoulou, team up with music performer Christos Alexopoulos, to put onstage the first and only bilingual theatrical performance in Athens, every Thursday night at Badminton Theatre. The play is based on over 200 real-life interviews with women. With humour and grace the monologues celebrate female sexuality and strength. www.badmintontheater.gr

insider athens | February 2012 7

On the town

Arts & events

09

10

11 0824 15 1522

until

until

march

B&M Theocharakis Foundation Great Russian Painters 1920-2010 09 The Manege Gallery Collection in St Petersburg is a unique museum ensemble in Russia, reflecting the artistic history of the city of Petrograd (19141924), Leningrad (1924-1991), and Saint Petersburg (1991). It consists of an intriguing collection of artworks reflecting the multiple sides and the variety of the events that marked the evolution of artistic production, from the 1920s till the early 21st century: from the Russian Avant-Garde in the beginning of the 20th century to the Socialist Realism, from the left-winged branches of Soviet art to the underground and from the artistic trends of Perestroika and postPerestroika periods to artistic styles from the past decade. www.thf.gr

8 insider athens | February 2012

february

march

Benaki Museum – Pireos Street Annexe 14 F / 21 GR: Young Architects in Greece and France 10 An exhibition dedicated to the work of thirty-five young French and Greek architects which presents new architectural perspectives on the natural and urban landscapes in France and Greece, and the evolution of French and Greek cities. www.benaki.gr

april

Benaki Museum of Islamic Art Elena Syraka Jewelry The latest jewellery series created by Elena Syraka based on exhibits of the Benaki Museum as seen through the photographic eye of Costas Voyatzis, aka Yatzer. www.benaki.gr

february

april

Benaki Museum – Pireos Street Annexe Made in Britain: Modern Art from the British Council Collection A rare opportunity for art lovers to experience first-hand the creative journey of some of the most prolific contemporary British artists of the past thirty years.The exhibition features around 150 works by a wide range of artists, including Paul Nash, Graham Sutherland, Henry Moore, Barbara Hepworth, David Hockney, Gilbert & George, Rachel Whiteread, Sarah Lucas, Damien Hirst, and Mark Wallinger, reflecting the breadth and diversity of British art throughout the period 19802010. www.benaki.gr

Art

From Russia with love From Soviet propagandist expression to a post-perestroika world, Russian art has been largely ignored or misunderstood by the rest of the world. The Manege Collection, which boasts of some exemplary works from the St. Petersburg School of Art, from the 1920s to date, provides an excellent introduction to the history of Russian art. The Collection is currently on loan to the B&M Theocharakis Foundation.

K

azimir Malevich, one of Russia’s most prolific artists wrote, “The most important thing is simplicity and expressiveness of form. There is nothing old – no forms, no life; we are offering to break free from the slavery of ready-made forms of the reality and make it art, creative rather than reproductive.”

When curator Afrodite Oikonomidou, Marina Dzhigarhanyan of the Manege Collection and Efthymia Georgiadou-Kountoura decided to showcase Russian art that had remained largely obscure in the West, little did they realize the historic role they were playing in educating Greek society about the evolution of an artistic tradition that spanned a century. A tradition that was the product of bloody revolutions, extreme political and social turbulence and post-perestroika rootlessness.

The Manege Collection boasts of some excellent works by St. Petersburg artists of different generations and offers an overview of Russian art history ranging from the 1920s up to the present day. Though representing different generations, it is the paintings and drawings from the 1920-40s period which takes pride of place. Their works offer a distinctive view of Sovirt art which are of great historical and artistic interest.

While the ‘Circle’ artists’ had the spirit of discreet intimacy and articulate correctness characteristic of the St.Petersburg tradition, an entirely different style is represented by the ‘Association of Artists of Revolutionary Russia’ who played a distinctive role in formulating the framework for the ‘Socialist realism’ style.

Art historian Efthymia Georgiadou-Kountoura notes, “The compositions from the ’20s were even more special, not for as much as what they revealed, but more so for what they concealed.”

The Manege Collection, B&M Theocharakis Foundation, Vas. Sofias 9 and Merlin 1. www.thf.gr

insider athens | February 2012 9

Totems: A rare link to the past Chief Tony Hunt, widely regarded as one of the greatest living artists of the Pacific Northwest Coast who has designed and fashioned close to one hundred large-scale totem poles, was at the Canadian Residence in Athens to restore a totem pole that he had carved forty years ago. Eleni Bakagianni, who was there to record the reunion of the artist with his creation, comes back humbled.

U

nknown fact: A full-scale totem pole, a rare example of a traditional art form from the NorthWest Pacific, stands tall in the garden of the Canadian Official Residence in Athens. Until now, I had never had the opportunity to appreciate Canadian Aborginal Art up close, let alone have the privilege of meeting one of the greatest living legends of this unique art-form.

The totem pole was designed by Chief Tony Hunt in the late sixties – more than forty years ago. In 1975 it was brought to Athens. Seventy-year old Chief Tony Hunt has been an artist all his life, and has designed and carved nearly one hundred full scale totem poles. Many of the totems built by Chief Hunt stand in museums and other public spaces all over the world - in the United States, the United Kingdom, Argentina, Mexico, Germany, and New Zealand.

He was invited to come to Athens for a few days in January to initiate a restoration project on the totem pole at the Canadian Residence. I asked how touching it was for him to be reunited with his totem pole after all these years. “It’s great!” he beamed.

He stands next to the totem pole and lets his hand run lovingly over the carved figures. He points out to the ovoid shapes of a frog, a whale, the chief and an eagle sculpture on top. On asked whether they narrate a story, he notes “it is a common myth that all poles tell stories. The pole in front of your house illustrates your main crest,” he clarifies.“That’s really all it is.”

Totem poles were originally created as symbols of spiritual and material wealth by skilled artists in the Pacific NorthWest Coast, in an effort to maintain the art of its people and to preserve it from disappearing. A symbol of a proud people, they are now celebrated as works of art. A totem pole could have any number of purposes, from relaying a legend, to serving as a crest identifying a family or clan and their ancestry, or to be a reminder of one’s privileges, rights, and achievements.

According to Chief Hunt, the art of totem pole carving is a sophisticated craft that demands extreme discipline and skill. Totem poles were traditionally rooted in the ground, as was the one at the Canadian Residence, and it is expected by both the carvers and the owners, that the pole, over time and exposure to the elements, would eventually integrate with nature.

The Canadian Ambassador, Dr Robert Peck, informs us that he, however, plans to have the tall wood sculpture fully restored and eventually placed and exhibited in a location that is protected from exposure to the elements, “as a monument that celebrates this rare link between Greece and Canada’s Aboriginal heritage.”

10 insider athens | February 2012

Culture

Chief Tony Hunt

Photo credits: Eleni Bakagianni

The Canadian Ambassador, Dr. Robert Peck, his wife, Chief Tony Hunt and Canadian Embassy staff

insider athens | February 2012 11

Culture

For Chief Hunt, his training as an artist began at the age of six. His grandfather, Mungo Martin, highly esteemed to this day for having revived traditional skills and passing them along to subsequent generations, was his teacher. He reminisces, “Mungo Martin was a master carver and had the ability to convey to students a reverence for the visual language of lines, proportion and ovoid shapes that had developed among Northwest Coast artists over centuries.” His grandson, Chief Hunt, recalls learning not only the skills for carving, “but all the time he was teaching me stories and songs, who owns that and who owns this, who has a right to do this and who doesn’t have a right to do that – that kind of advice, so eventually when I became Chief I had the knowledge already.”

One of the most remarkable talents that Mungo Martin passed along to Chief Hunt was the ability to envision the carving of an entire totem pole. “Part of Mungo’s training was to get a sixty foot log and lay it down,” Chief Hunt explains. “I can design a totem laying down – proportion, depth-of-cut and everything – in about half an hour. I can visually see it … the whole thing at once!

Chief Hunt shared with our small group a few selected pieces from his paintings - human figures, the sun, ceremonial masks, wild animals from eagles, bears, ravens, beavers, mountain goats, wolves, salmon, squid, seals, killer whales, octopuses, cockles and other sea creatures - all inspired by the world of Northwest Coast art and mythology.

Proud of his rich heritage, Chief Hunt shows us the ceremonial copper on his chest and points out that he is Ten Times Chief - the highest rank of Hereditary Chief - of the KwaGulth people of Fort Rupert and Kingcome Inlet in British Columbia. Did his grandfather’s teachings influence his own style of teaching? Chief Hunt is quick to respond, “There’s a big difference. All the guys that I taught – more than a hundred and forty – all of the best today were never taught traditionally, the meaning of this screen or that mask, when it’s used and how it’s used, who owns it, who has the right to show it. They’re in it for different reasons. They know very little about what they’re making, and although there is quality in the pieces they create, there is very little understanding. That’s a real problem.”

Along with the art of carving totem poles and Aboriginal paintings influenced by NorthWest mythology, Chief Hunt is also trying to preserve his native tongue, Kwak’wala, currently spoken by only 200 speakers. He says a few phrases for our benefit, and adds jokingly, “it sounds quite guttural.”

As I leave, I feel privileged to have been part of this little-known world and in the presence of such an awe-inspiring figure, if only for a few hours.

12 insider athens | February 2012

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Eternal allies

On the eve of Serbia’s national day, Dragan Zupanjevac, the Serbian Ambassador to Greece speaks to Alexia Kefalas on the close ties his country has shared with Greece over the centuries, the mystique of the Hilandar monastery at Mount Athos, the incredible destiny of young Serb superstar Novak Djokovich and Serbia’s European ambitions.

14 insider athens | February 2012

ragan Zupanjevac does not go unnoticed in the diplomatic community. A tall, imposing figure with an affable disposition, the first thing that strikes one after having exchanged a few words with him, is his keen sense of observation and his innate skill of narrating stories with such passion that one is drawn to it with the same enthusiasm he exudes – especially when the subject is Serbia.

A quintessential diplomat, Dragan Zupanjevac had a multi-cultural upbringing, sharing a Serb grandfather who fought in WWI and a French grandmother; he schooled in the UK and speaks impeccable French, English and Serbian.

Being posted here as the Serbian Ambassador means that the philhellene diplomat “is touched by the warm welcome he receives in his host country.” Greece and Serbia have shared extremely strong political and economic ties over millennia and Greece has always been considered as Serbia’s most reliable ally throughout it’s turbulent history. The historically strong bond is particularly evident in the Greek hinterland, “It is very important for me to go outside

Diplomacy Athens. It is there that you can see the bond between Greeks and Serbians. I’ve just come back from Kalamata in the Peloponnese. The mayor, the people, everybody was shouting “oi monoi filoi” to tell me that the Serbs are “true friends” of the Greeks. And this is absolutely true” says Dragan Zupanjevac with emotion. “Greeks do not turn their backs on History and that is a strength. The mayor of Kalamata, for example told me of his personal connection with Serbia as he grew up with his grandfather who recounted stories of fighting alongside the Serbs on the Macedonian front against teh Bulgarians, Austrians and Germans”, he explains.

“Today, the economic crisis in Greece is a reality that we understand.

But Greece is also a strong supporter for us, Greece joined NATO and the European Union very early and even in the current crisis has never wavered in supporting Serbia’s adhesion to the EU. Greece wants us to join the family. On December 9, Croatia signed their adhesion treaty and our own candidacy could be examined as soon as next March. For us this is a priority. We are part of Europe both geographically and culturally”.

TCDL

A firm believer in a common European destiny, Dragan Zupanjevac supports the expansion of Europe to incorporate new members such as his own. Being in Greece at this critical juncture, offers a vantage point to observe the evolution of the EU, and he feels both “an actor and a spectator in this fascinating process.”

Musing philosophically, Zupanjevac reflects on his role as a diplomat as someone who moves from country to country yet continues on the road he is discovering. For Dragan Zupanjevac, the pride and privilege of representing his beloved Serbia, defending its identity, and promoting its interests, is the best job he could ask for. In February 2008, when Kosovo declared its independence, he was attached to the Serbian Embassy in London. Without hesitation, he successfully confronted the BBC television crew “to defend Serbia’s point of view and engage in dialogue.” A few months later, his phone rings and he learns that he has just been named Ambassador to Greece. “I immediately called my wife and told her we would move to the country where she had bought her wedding dress. She understood immediately and was thrilled.”

insider athens | February 2012 15

Diplomacy

TCDL

“There are so many things to do here,” he continues. His dream is to reinforce the touristic link between the two countries. “Over one million Serbian tourists visited Greece last year – mainly Northern Greece, Chalkidiki, Corfu and Santorini. I would like to have as many Greeks visiting Serbia as well.” He himself goes quite often to Corfu.

In addition to the island’s beauty, its beaches and the warm welcome of its inhabitants, Corfu is a special place for the Serbs. During WWI, Corfu received the Serbian army, who withdrew in an epic march through the mountains of Montenegro and Albania and in the end emerged victorious with the help of the Allies. Every year, at the commemorative ceremony, hundreds of Serbs take the trip to pay homage to the generosity of their Greek counterparts.

“You also have on Mount Athos a Serbian monastery of rare beauty, which is one of the greatest religious sanctuaries for the Serbs. The monastery of Hilandar. It was founded in 1198 by King Stefan Nemanja, who became Saint Simon later, and his son Ratsco Nemanjic, who became one of Serbia’s most popular saints, Saint Sava. It was Emperor Alexis II himself who gave the authorization to build the monastery. The place, the icons and the quiet spirituality of Hilandar is truly impressive. The library of the monastery also holds rare old manuscripts,” he informs. Numerous personalities, including Prince Charles, have come to Hilandar. “Unfortunately, a fire destroyed part

16 insider athens | February 2012

of the monastery in 2004, but thanks to Serbian funds it was totally rehabilitated” explains the Ambassador before confiding that he works strenuously to develop Greek tourism in Serbia. “There are more and more tourists coming to Serbia. Belgrade is a cosmopolitan city where prices are still affordable and young people come from neighbouring countries to appreciate the rich night life. Serbian cuisine, a mix of Balkan, Oriental and Occidental flavours, is renowned. And this is not all. Many come to the ski resort of Kapaonik. It has very good slopes and luxury hotels and palaces. And there is also a reputed tennis club.

Novak Djokovic, currently the number one tennis player, took his first lesson in Kapaonik at age 4, where his parents ran a local restaurant.

Seeing how Novak held his racket, the tennis instructor immediately predicted to his parents that he would have a great future. And this is what happened!”

With infectious passion over endless cups of Serbian coffee, Dragan Zupanjevac could go on talking of his country for hours. Standing by the window of his office, he looks onto the garden of the Serbian Residence on Vassilisis Sofias Avenue. A well, a fountain, a swimming pool and centuries-old gnarled trees vie for space in this verdant oasis in the heart of the city. For the Serbian Ambassador to Greece, this “treasure” is akin to the position of his country in the midst of Europe.

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Creating Greece in a parallel universe Nick Malkoutzis speaks to inspirational brand strategist Peter Economides on breaking comfortable perceptions and clichéd observations about Greece

W

hen Peter Economides stood on a podium in Thessaloniki late last year to deliver a presentation on his specialist subject, branding, the date should have served as an indication to everyone that something pretty special was about to happen. It was the 11th day of the 11th month of 2011 when the GreekSouth African explained to his audience of about 400 people that it was time to rebrand Greece.

Since then, Economides estimates that some 400,000 people have been exposed to his presentation thanks to YouTube, Slideshare and coverage in the media. It has been a phenomenal response to a revolutionary idea, which is to take Greece at its lowest ebb and transform its image.

“The response tells me that there’s quite a sea change happening in the way Greeks think about themselves and their future,” Economides told Insider. “I’m sure that if 10 years ago I’d used the word “brand” and associated it with Greece and Greeks, I’d have had the typical Greek response.”

Economides has experience of transforming the fortunes of suffering projects. He was part of the team that helped create Apple’s “Think Different” campaign in 1997. At that point, the computer manufacturer was on the wane – the public and the media had lost interest and the firm’s finances were in a mess. The campaign, featuring iconic 20th-century figures such as Maria Callas and Muhammad Ali, transformed Apple’s image and set it on the way to becoming one of the world’s largest companies today.

Economides believes that Greece is at the point where a proper rebranding campaign could transform it into the “Apple of the Mediterranean.”

“I tell people I’m not a politician, a social activist or an angry young man. I’m a brand strategist and I’m applying some of the things I learnt as a brand strategist to look at what’s happening. “My professional conclusion is that we absolutely have to rebrand Greece and

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Greeks. There’s a financial crisis but it’s actually an image crisis at the end of the day. That means it’s a reputation crisis and what I think about myself depends very much on what people think about me. So, if it’s a reputation crisis, it becomes a ‘How I feel about myself crisis’.

If I don’t feel good about myself, I cannot lift myself out of the mess.”

Without pulling punches about Greece’s rock-bottom image, Economides’s rebranding presentation is full of hope about the potential of a country with a long history, rich culture, able people and valuable resources. It has struck an inspirational chord with many Greeks at this time of deep gloom. Economides says he receives about 100 messages a day from people who view the presentation.

“Some of them are really heart crushing. The most heart crushing I’ve received comes from a girl in Paris who wrote to me and said: ‘I’m the mother of a two-month-old boy. As soon as he’s able, I’m going to show him your video so he can understand where he comes from.’”

“There’s a kid in Thessaloniki who wrote to me and told me he watches the video every morning because it gives him strength.

This is quite remarkable because don’t forget that we’re talking about a 30-minute presentation on branding, which was given to a business audience. It’s just resonated so well with Greeks, with the Diaspora, with the international marketing community.”

Greek Reporter named Economides among the 10 Greeks of the Diaspora that left their mark on 2011 and he believes that Greece needs to rebuild its links with Greeks in the USA, Australia and other parts of the world as part of the effort to overhaul its image.

“The Greek Diaspora is full of people who will get on board if they’re motivated in the right way. We’ve go to work with what are called in marketing terms the “innovators” and “early adopters”, in Greece and around the world. The fire has to start there and the rest of society will follow. If we can turn on the right people in the Diaspora, it spreads.”

Talking Point

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Talking Point

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One of the main reasons that Economides’ rebranding idea appears to have met with such a positive response is that the emphasis is on what people can do for themselves, rather than creating a government-managed advertising campaign. As he says, it is about changing the way people feel and think rather than boosting tourism. It is this knowledge of self that will be crucial to Greece recovering from its current debilitating crisis.

“My firm belief is that we cannot cheat our way out of this crisis,” says Economides. “We cannot buy our way out of the crisis. We cannot sell our way out of the crisis. We have to create our way out of the crisis. People say to me that this is a generational issues but I say: “No it’s not because you can do something.” For example, think of all the companies that have been established around the world over the past few decades: Google was created by two young kids at university, Facebook was created in a dorm, Apple was created in a garage by two young kids with a dream.

“Since the November talk, I’ve come across so many young Greeks doing amazing things. I have somehow become a magnet for people to tell me what they’re doing. Inspiring people is part of how we’re going to get out this mess. We have to get rid of the den ginetai (It can’t be done) mentality.”

In fact, the response to Economides’s presentation prompted him to rethink his own strategy. Last November, he was considering ways to drum up investment for the rebranding project and then to get the public sector involved in some capacity. Now, he is thinking of doing things slightly differently.

“I am realizing that it doesn’t really need huge investment,” he says. “What it does need is support from the media because this is too much for me to do on my own while running my business at the same time. I do need significant corporations, who have got the kind of budget to get positive messaging out there, to work with me.”

What Economides has found thanks to the feedback he received since he released his rebranding idea into the public domain is that there is no shortage of talented people in Greece with progressive ideas. The brand strategist believes that another rewarding project would be to create synergies between these people.

“There’s an incredible disconnect that exists in Greek society.

We’re disconnected with ourselves; we’ve become a consumption rather than creative society, there’s a disconnect between people in society; there’s not a great sense of community and there’s a disconnect between ourselves and the state; we spend so much energy dealing with the state.

“Something I can do is to connect people and to do it at all the levels I’ve been talking about: connection with self by defining what Greece actually is, connection between people to start a dialogue and so they can work with each other. So, I might uncover a guy who’s got an olive grove and might want to produce an amazing ol-

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ive oil. Well, I can connect him with people that can help make his dream come true. I can also potentially connect him with markets through e-commerce. There’s an opportunity to connect the creative elements in society and get them to pull together and inspire each other. There’s a connection that can be made between smart kids with great ideas and people with money to finance these guys.”

Although the idea is in its formatives stages and Economides does not want to give too much away just yet, he is considering creating a web-based platform to help bring together people who have a do-it-yourself attitude to overcoming the crisis.

“I want to create Greece as it might be in a parallel universe. In other words, forget about changing the government, forget about the education system but do what can be done now, now. We’ve got to create our way out of the crisis.”

“I don’t think this has been done in they way that I imagine it anywhere else in the world. I think it’s pretty much groundbreaking. It’s incredibly exciting because I’m applying what I know to a huge issue with which I have an emotional connection. “ Economides has already started a fire with his rebranding idea, if he succeeds in becoming the link between people with potential then he might not have to imagine Greece in a parallel universe, because the real one won’t be that bad at all.

Discover, taste and savour the finest chocolate recipes, creations and pleasures at the Astir Palace Resort Chocolate is a special kind of pleasure: it’s not the sine qua non of food, it’s always a luxury, an extravagance, the fine ending of a dinner, a dietary sin we never regret, a child’s obsession and an adult’s object of desire Westin Athens Hotel at the Astir Palace Resort pays tribute to Chocolate and organizes the sweetest winter party:

4th Chocolating Festival Pastry chefs Frantzeskos Sozos and Dimitris Chronopoulos create the perfect destination for lovers of chocolate, while chef Stratos Kalathakis creates a gourmet chocolate-flavoured menu.

The festival includes a host of events for young and old visitors.

Sofa Bar 17 to 19 February, 26 February, and 2 to 4 March 2012, from 12:00 to 23:00 • The story of Chocolate • Watch our chefs create chocolate delights • Chocolate tasting • Chocolate massage demonstration by the Arion spa team • Chocolate buffet for all ages • Chocolate house with chocolate surprises • Chocolate fountain • Chocolate fondue, tapas and soups • Chocolate coffee, beverages and cocktails • Chocolate quiz about chocolates... and win!

The Astir Palace Beach Resort 40, Apollonos street, Vouliagmeni 16671, Greece, Tel.: 2108902000

Photo credits: Aris Roupinas

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Debate

A Galaxy of thoughts On the occasion of Athens Insider’s 10th anniversary, an informal round-table at the Hilton Hotel’s Galaxy bar promptly turns into an impromptu think-tank. Can this gang of 10 solve Greece’s future over finger-food and a glass of champagne? Marq Riley plays moderator.

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hen Dutch TV chef Esther Sarphatie came to Greece, she got hooked on the good life.

“Everybody was very kind and very warm, there were all these long sessions of food, endless eating, I couldn’t go back then, and I don’t want to leave now, even if everything is so difficult at the moment. It’s sad what’s happening, but I’m very positive somehow, I think it’s good, like a clean-up, and I think it needed to happen.” She believes that this penchant for living large may well have contributed to the crisis which Greece grew towards. “Nobody wanted to see it because we were all too busy with spending money we didn’t have and borrowing and buying a summer house and another car and more, more, more. I say we because I put myself in it even though I don’t have that kind of mentality.”

From left to right:

The question of mindset ignited the discussion between our ten invitees. On the occasion of Athens Insider magazine’s 10th anniversary, an informal round-table promptly turned into an impromptu think-tank, its participants shaping and sharing opinions on the Greece that was, is, and could be.

Sudha Nair-Iliades, Publisher, Insider Publications

George Papalexis, CEO of Zolotas Clement Schwebig, COO of Alpha TV Jorge Mastopietro, Argentinian Ambassador to Greece Bart van der Winkel, General Manager of The Hilton, Athens Alexandros Stanas, General Director of Art-Athina Annia Spiliopoulos-Eliades, Managing Partner of Quintessentially Hellas

Esther Sarphatie, chef and TV host Gina Mamidakis, CEO, Blue Hotels and Insider’s Marq Riley

There was no doubt Greeks enjoyed their lifestyle, and its people’s hospitality and zest towards others are still viewed as major positives. “A Greek could spend one month’s salary in one night entertaining his friends,” says George Papalexis, CEO of jewellery house Zolotas.

“But another night it would be his friend paying, and we would have a lot of friends.” The ensuing laughter that echoed around the Hilton’s Galaxy bar on a crisp and clear Monday

insider athens | February 2012 23

evening in January was one of recognition, as nightly group outings to bars, restaurants or the beloved bouzoukia and music halls were a reality until three years ago. “We didn’t have to think so much about it then because the economy was rolling. This crisis is the judgement, se krino in Greek. It’s judgement day.” As a young Franco-Hellene in Greece, Georges Papalexis feels his generation was given a valuable moment of reflection. “We need to have a deeper thought about who we are, what we want to do, how we want to achieve it. Especially for us aged 20-45, we want to make our career, build things around us and we need to find a solution.”

As to what that might be, he recites a notion offered by brand strategist Peter Economides in a lecture just the day before: “Let’s build a second reality to the one that exists today.” Disillusion with the inherent system is the main obstacle among Greeks today, lifting them to another level of motivation is solving half that problem. “We have to improve our skills, our knowledge, become more productive, be more creative, and to love more what we will have. People will follow this reality, people who want to make things right, who will inspire other people to fix the system.”

At this point Jorge Mastropietro, Ambassador of Argentina, joins in. “I find the Greek people are very creative,” an observation that receives a hearty “thank you” from the Greek contingent. “Maybe they were a bit too relaxed, but I think they’re going to pick up again.” He adds that Argentina went through a very similar situation to Greece at the turn of the millennium, although much more profound in terms of financial, political and popular turmoil, yet saw a remarkably strong recovery by protecting its industry, maintaining employment through worker-owned cooperatives, diversifying production and putting a lot of work in exports. “The people of Greece are in a good disposition to do the right thing. They just need somebody to make the right decisions.”

This is where the proverbial hammer meets the nail, as all present agree that political regeneration is a must, even if a leadership that is able to take charge and shake things

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Debate

up seems highly elusive. Dictatorships on the other hand have become extremely out of fashion, thankfully.

“What struck me when I came here three years ago from France,” adds Clément Schwebig, Chief Operating Officer of Alpha Media Group, “was the incredible optimism. This has changed a bit, but behind it is a strong sense of culture that won’t collapse.” He found Greeks to be very entrepreneurial. “I was very impressed to see how people can focus on very targeted problems to find issues and even solutions. I think when people will have a real target and focus all their energy, optimism and entrepreneurship, they will find intelligent and sophisticated ways of solving the problems.”

Annia Spiliopoulos-Eliades, Managing Partner of Quintessentially Hellas, concurs that Greeks were starting to live beyond their means in a monetary culture that made it increasingly easy to do so, but disagrees with the suggestion that Greeks are lazy. “I have worked with English people, Japanese people, pretty much all nationalities. I would say Greeks are probably one of the most hard-working people I’ve ever worked with. But as a nation perhaps not as methodically, without plan or vision.”

From across the coffee table Gina Mamidakis, CEO of Blue Hotels, shakes her head. “I believe Greeks do have vision, it’s only the strategy and means to go to the vision with which they have a problem.

The Greeks are not really the problem, each one has a vision, but [the real problem lies with] a small, small part of the politician Greeks and especially the business people who deal with the government.”

According to Mamidakis, a board member of SETE, the Association

of Greek Tourism Enterprises, building a consistent vision at home and image abroad, especially in tourism, is hampered by the fleeting nature of governmental middle-management. “There would need to be a President of the GNTO (Greek National Tourism Organisation) who follows the industry for at least 20 years. But each new ministry imposes a new strategy with its own views without consulting the previous people. We could be really upscale in the market but lack the long-term means.” She adds that SETE is currently trying to create a collaboration between the state and private market to develop a common agenda, “But as you know everything is difficult in Greece, just to build a hotel you need 17 licenses, and one is contradicting the other.

One would need to make a bonfire like Thatcher did, burn all those legislations and start from the scratch.”

Creativity usually thrives in times of hardship, and signs are that Greece is no different. Already small collectives of artists are making headlines for turning abandoned buildings into galleries. Alexandros Stanas, General Director of the annual Art-Athina fair, asked the Argentinian Ambassador how his country embellished its cultural economics post-crisis. The response could easily apply to the Greek potential: Improving conditions for cinematography, exporting music and boosting cultural events. “Cultural tourism,” says Stanas, “is a heavy industry for Greece. Tourism currently counts for around 18 percent of GDP in Greece, and it could support up to 28-30 percent.”

Taking the Athens 2004 Olympic Games as an example of a focussed project towards which a city, and nation, worked together, Hilton’s General Manager Bart van der Winkel points out that the tourism potential was however completely lost. “Up to three months prior to

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26 insider athens | February 2012

Debate

the games, it was still said that the Olympics could go to Sydney. So we never had a pre-Olympic program. The opening was absolutely spectacular and that lasted for the duration of the games. But then there was no post-Olympic program, PR, communication, marketing, you name it, and the whole infrastructure fell apart. We are faced at this moment with a vacuum since the Olympics which has never been filled. So where do we go for the future, it cannot depend on tourism only. Will we have to go back to agriculture? Oh absolutely, and with unemployment on the rise, people are already going back to the villages.”

With delegates of the IMF, European Community and the ECB staying at his hotel, and many market and government insiders passing through its doors daily, Van der Winkel has become somewhat of an expert on the Hellenic issue. If he sees a grim outlook for the next couple of years, that’s a pragmatic Dutch analysis of the conversations he’s had with many of his guests. “What can we do about it? Well, invite people from Wall Street, journalists, let’s have a coordinated approach, show them what Greece is all about, start changing the image of Athens and repositioning it as the place to be. Then have three or four major events per year, a Cannes-style film festival, a formula 1 race, and then we may get somewhere.”

Alexia Kefalas, a correspondent for France 24 and Le Figaro, shares a similar pragmatism. “I really love Greece, and in France we have the philhellenes who do also, but I’m very sad about the situation here and disappointed with Europe, who should have done more to prevent this.” Would she be able to project a positive image of Greece in the future? “Things are complicated for people who want to invest here, but if bureaucracy and the administration changes, what the task-force is trying to do now, maybe things will get better.”

There is light on the horizon, at least the private one. For lovers of the Life Gallery hotel in the tree-rich north-Athenian suburbs, Gina Mamidakis has good news. After almost a year’s closure, its doors will open again this spring, with the focus of becoming a “lab” for Greek products, an export centre of the Greek image, if you will, “a Greece to be proud of.”

Quintessentially Hellas also promotes Greece as a high-end destination for its global members, fervently supporting the country’s exclusive attractions and hotels on one hand and calling on the goodwill of its members to support local charitable initiatives. A recent Quintessentially Hellas silent auction raised over €16.000 for S.O.S. children’s villages and the ELIZA Foundation.

As for the next 10 years, the outlook of our guests concentrated on a shift in mentality, especially of the young generation, a restructuring of legal, legislative and political frameworks, and above all a focused, concerted effort to engage Greeks at home and abroad to raise the country’s image on all levels. Will and time shall be the foremost factors in this quest. Alexandros Stanas sums up the evenings main keywords, saying: “Invest in environment, our land and nature, education and culture, ancient and contemporary. How to apply it; good management and innovation. Put this in the marketing mix and I’m definitely optimistic.”

In conclusion, Athens Insider publisher Sudha Nair-Iliades puts the magazine’s voyage in perspective to Greece’s evolution. “Already I see a lot of change in attitudes since we first launched Insider 10 years ago.

But of course a lot can still be done, and I see it as our task to contribute to creating a better image for Greece. Readers give us feedback and there are those who say we are not addressing the issues of trash piling up on the streets and the strikes, but others thank us for bringing positive stories to light, and that’s what we’ll continue to do.”

insider athens | February 2012 27

Cultural renaissance Melanithros

x:situ

*All photographs by Yannis Antypas

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Faust

Contemporary Art Meeting Point

Art and the city Despite the crisis, or perhaps because of it, culture seems to be thriving.

In this issue, Athens Insider covers four cool art initiatives that have taken root in the much maligned city centre. A positive counterpoint to the doom and uncertainty hanging over Athens

Melanithros A multifunctional art space for the arts & design conceived by architect Yannis Kaklamanis, Melanithros is located right behind the old marble stadium, Kallimarmaron.

Melanithros hosts activities & events including painting, photography, multimedia, design & architecture exhibitions, theatre, group shows, book presentations, childrens’ storytelling events & puppet shows. The space lends itself to different forms and functions as the space can be manipulated with movable walls, modular benches and incandescent spot lights that can be controlled by a central lighting console.

Location: Zappa 4, Kallimarmaro, Athens Tel.: 210 36 36 904 Web: http://www.melanithros.gr

insider athens | February 2012 29

x:situ x:situ is a series of art and design exhibitions, hosting an unforeseen range of artists from various disciplines in unique and unpredicted environments. Each exhibition aims to allow its viewer to critically rethink art & design by taking the works from their initial intended destination and re-placing them in a newly crafted environment, allowing the works to interact with each other as well as their surroundings in order to reveal the dynamic elements the specific space stimulates. x:situ aims to intrigue its participants and audience into observing how a redefined display context has the ability to reassess the content of art & design. x:situ are Christina Papas & Aris Papadopoulos.

In December x:situ presented domus, its inaugural art & design exhibition, at a private residence located near the Acropolis.

Featuring a group of designers and artists of various disciplines, domus was the first of a series of x:situ exhibitions, encouraging viewers to intimately experience the works and their dynamic elements stimulated and revealed by this personal environment.

Featured artists & designers included: Atelier Zeitgeist (Aris Papadopoulos & Panos Sakkas), Blaqk (Grigoris Papagrigoriou & SIMEK), Christelle Makris, Giannis Mamoutzis, Sonke, Vasilis Botoulas and Versaweiss.

Location: Variable Contact: xsituathens@gmail.com x:situ Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/xsitu/303653956334260?sk=wall

30 insider athens | February 2012

Art and the city

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Faust In the historical centre of Athens, wedged between the Kapnikarea church and Plateia Ag. Irinis, Faust is a new entrant in the Athenian culture scene. From the Latin Faustus, meaning ‘blessed’, this cultural institution is housed in a 650 square metre, renovated three story neo-classical building. Designed as a venue for music, theatre and the arts, Faust opened its doors to the public in October 2011 and has been drawing a steady following ever since both for its concerts as

32 insider athens | February 2012

well as its extremely trendy bar. According to actor Alekos Sissovitis, one of the three business partners behind Faust, another two floors, featuring an exhibition space and a 65-seat theatre are expected to open early this year.

Location: Kalamiotou 11 & Athinaidos 12, Agias Eirinis Square, Athens Tel.: 210 32 34 095, www.faust.gr

Art and the city

Contemporary Art Meeting Point CAMP is located within the very heart of Athens, at Plateia Kotzia - the historic centre and public meeting point of diverse cultures and individuals. The recently restored three story neoclassical building stands cheek by jowl with such architectural landmarks such as The National Bank of Greece building and the Athens City Hall. Kotzia Square, which embraces the City Hall, has enjoyed moments of glory during which the City Theatre invited an overwhelming crowd of Athenians to watch Sarah Bernhardt perform, but also moments of sadness when the theatre itself housed refugees, which resulted in its eventual demolishment and downfall.

Within this very location, contemporary art has acquired a new meeting place for artists in one of the most emblematic corners of Athens. According to Dimitris Farmakis, CAMP aims to connect artists from Greece and abroad who work with the visual arts, music, performing arts and film to present innovative ideas and new and fresh proposals. It aspires to become the absolute meeting point for art lovers and the art community, providing an overall view of the contemporary arts scene.

Location: Efpolidos 4 & Apellou 2, Kotzia Square, Athens Tel.: 210 32 47 679, http://campoint.gr Visiting hours: Monday-Sunday 14:00-21:00

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Greek Masala Nikos Andritsakis has been taking Bollywood by storm bringing his Greek sensibilities to Indian celluloid. In a candid interview with Athens Insider, he speaks about film-making, India and the beauty of the Aegean 1. Which neighbourhood in Athens did you grow up in?

I grew up in Nea Smyrni and after graduating high school I would essentially hang in the centre. I left Greece when I was 25 years old in order to live in London and study filmmaking.

2. Had you heard of Bollywood films or watched any of them before heading to India?

I had heard of Bollywood before heading to India and had an almost torturous experience in London when a Lebanese friend of mine who is a huge Bollywood fan forced me to watch a three hour long Bollywood film with her. At the time, being a film buff and big fan of art house European cinema I was even reluctant towards Hollywood films. So it was a bit of a cultural shock.

3. What prompted you to take up cinematography? Did Greece’s incredible light and visual beauty influence your career choice?

Cinematography, like a lot of other important things in my life happened to me almost accidently. It was never part of my plans. Before going to London I was shooting stills and was interested in art photography. I wanted to direct films and thought that a film director needs to understand the medium he is using. So I wanted to understand lenses, light, composition and camera angles in order to explore their narrative potential. In the first few years in London, I was mainly directing short films and at some point I worked as a cinematographer in a short film to help a friend of mine who was doing a thesis project.

The film then received a lot of attention and gave me a place in Budapest Cinematography Masterclass, which happens once every two years and sixteen young cinematographers from all over the world are

34 insider athens | February 2012

sponsored by Kodak to light sets under the supervision of acclaimed Hollywood cinematographers. It was an extremely stimulating experience interacting with the senior cinematographers but also with so many talented people from all corners and cultures of the world, bringing in their own aesthetic systems, style and taste. After that I had a lot of offers to shoot projects in various countries in Europe so I put Directing aside for a while and started travelling and shooting for other people. That is how I gradually fell in love with the craft of cinematography.

4. You were a star student at the London Film School with an established name in the UK independent film and music video circuit - what made you risk it all for an uncertain future in India?

Coming to India was not a decision as such. I came to Bombay to shoot a film and then one thing led to another so I kept postponing my return to London. Every person has their own way of assessing risk taking. I feel that the real price of any form of success is the fear of losing what one has conquered. Thus people tend to take more conservative decisions as they climb up the ladder and become gradually more accomplished. This can be dangerous in terms of losing the edge, the creative spark which is so precious in art.

A certain amount of risk keeps the spirit alive because starting in a foreign place from scratch leads to the sudden loss of the usual “safety grips� we have in life, such as family, friends, home etc and one is forced to reassess all the stereotype ideas that have been formed through culture, time and habit. This is liberating but at the same time there is no comfort whenever things go wrong. Moving from certainty to uncertainty is cruel but rewarding.

Cinema

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Cinema

5. How intimidating was the move to India? Both at the personal and professional level.

I did not find it intimidating at all. Strangely I felt at ease much faster than I did in London and felt very familiar with the unique warmth that Indians have. Making friends with people here has been a great experience. Indians are very unique people. I’ve also learned a lot on a personal level by bonding with people in Bombay. On a professional level, I had to get familiar with the way the craft is practiced here but the key is finding like-minded people to work with and slowly the place doesn’t feel that “foreign” anymore.

6. Did you expect to create the impact you have in the short time you have been in India with critical reviews and award nominations coming your way almost immediately?

The quick answer is no I hadn’t even thought of the possibility of being nominated for an award. But the truth is that success in the form of acclaim and awards etc as flattering as it may be for anyone, it differs substantially from success in creative terms. The latter is rather a personal assessment and the closest thing I could relate it to is a feeling as if one has unlocked even the smallest secret of life, snatched it on celluloid and made it eternal. Essentially every filmmaker’s ultimate objective is to connect emotionally with his audience. And there is no success, in the end it is all about a two hour journey in a dark room and whether people find fragments of themselves in the film.

7. Do you take pride in being referred to as ‘the Greek’ in Indian film circles?

It’s the first time I am in a place that there seems to be no other Greeks around. I have heard there are some more Greeks in Bombay but I haven’t yet bumped into anyone. It’s cool to be the Greek, it has Massala(spice). The sweet thing is that Indians who know me a little say that I am an Indian at heart, I found that very embracing.

8. Have you suggested Greece as a destination to some of the Bollywood producers?

I didn’t have to. They had already not only spotted Greece but also repeatedly shot there. I know at least two productions which flew their crews to the islands of the Aegean and have shot in picturesque locations. There is also a song that I have seen, shot with two big

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Bollywood stars in Santorini’s Thira and Oia, with Bollywood style dancing and all.

9. What, according to you, are the most striking similarities between Indians and Greeks and.... the most jarring differences?

Both Greeks and Indians are warm in nature and probably Indians are even warmer. We also share a common twisted perception of time. Ten Indian or Greek minutes take longer than say Ten English minutes.

We both cherish hospitality and strong family bonds. Both are chaotic, disorganized and disobedient.

There is definitely more similarities than differences, yet in India, I have felt that I have found a sense of innocence and humanity which was more present in a more traditional Greece of the older days and which has been fading away as Greece has been adopting the concepts of modern capitalism.

But on another level I feel that human nature doesn’t differ in its core from one continent to another, every positive or negative aspect of it is present everywhere. There is always love, revenge, greed, happiness, fear, dreams etc wherever there are humans. That’s the stuff that people are made of.

10. If you were to describe India in a few words, what would they be?

A place of immense diversity, beauty and philosophy that one lifetime is probably too short to explore.

11. And how would you describe Greece?

A country of wild and untamed spirit with the potential to either selfdestruct or shine like it once did thousands of years ago.

12. The quintessential Athenian sounds, sights and smell you miss most?

Speaking in the Greek language, especially when I am angry.

The smell of the dry climate especially in spring, the hot summer nights, the city centre and the lazy, chilled out night life with the numerous bars.

The Aegean Sea. Since I left I have always made sure I spend my summers in some small island in Cyclades. There is no other place in the world that I have been to so far that can top the vibe of the Aegean.

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ATHENS

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Spirited Conversations Christophe Lemarié, CEO of Pernod Ricard Hellas shares his views on the spirits industry, bouzoukia and opportunities in the Greek crisis with Sudha Nair-Iliades over wine and seafood at Milos

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or someone who had spent the past ten years in New York, the damp and wintry weather on what should have been a glorious halcyon day in mid-January in Greece, was more reminiscent of the cold climes on the East Coast. Christophe Lemarié, who moved to Athens in September commented, “I expected the economic climate to be tough, but I thought I could bank on the sunshine.”

At Milos, there was some palpable excitement as a high-profile ministerial delegation from Israel had reserved the private room at the restaurant. We were particularly lucky as we were at the chef’s table – a corner from where we had a vantage view of the kitchen as the chefs bustled around to meet the lunch hour rush. I have long believed that Milos offers the best value-for-money option for business lunches.

The menu is creative, Mediterranean at heart, and reflects the huge success its sister restaurants in the US have enjoyed for over a decade. Lemarié muses over the menu and we let Ricardo, the maître d’, choose. So over an entrée of avgotaraho and tuna carpaccio, followed by steamed lobster and grilled sea bass, and rounded off by scrumptious loukoumades, Lemarie speaks at length of his Greek experience – the uncertainty looming over the economy, the appeal of the bouzoukia, his conviction that ‘Greece will not become another Atlantis’, the fine art of negotiating with suppliers and the very human connection he feels with his Greek colleagues.

38 insider athens | February 2012

You’ve come to Greece at a rather interesting time. It is said that ‘in good times people drink, in bad times, people drink more’. In that sense, is the crisis good for the spirits industry?

Unfortunately not. The market has been heavily hit by the decline of consumption, as well as the increases in alcohol taxes and VAT in restaurants last year. Since 2008, the market of spirits has lost 40% of its volume!

After spending almost a decade in the US and the Americas in the fast growing travel retail sector, how would you compare the retail sector in Greece to that in the US? What is striking is the vibrancy of the on-premise and nightlife channel, despite the crisis. This leads to a heavier than usual weight of traditional trade, as opposed to modern trade. However, we can expect the crisis to accelerate the trend towards growth and consolidation of the modern trade.

Lunch Date You moved to Greece just five months ago, in the midst of the euro-drama. Do you think that the uncertainty looming over the currency’s future will have a serious impact on your business?

Definitely. As I said above, the market has suffered tremendously. Beyond this quantitative effect, there will be more fundamental impacts on the trade organization, and also on the consumption patterns. As in all crises, though, this will throw up opportunities as well as risks. It is up to us to spot them and seize them.

Pernod Ricard has expanded its portfolio in recent years, including the high-profile acquisition of iconic brands such as Sweden’s Absolut vodka and Greece’s Ouzo Mini. Are there any more acquisitions in the pipeline?

As explained by our Chairman Pierre Pringuet on several occasions, our priority for the moment is to reduce our debt level resulting from the acquisition of Absolut.

How would you compare Pernod Ricard’s prospects in Greece to that of arch rival Diageo?

Diageo is number one in Greece, but we are clear leaders in some key categories, such as Super Premium Scotch whiskies and Premium Vodka. We also are strong in categories that seem to be faring better in these tough circumstances, such as Premium Rum (Havana Club) or Ouzo (Mini).

With a strong organization, and a long-term view of the market, I believe that Pernod Ricard is very well placed to take advantage of the opportunities that will arise from the crisis, and from the recovery, whenever it comes.

From pre-mixed cocktails to alcohol-free beer, any trends in the spirits industry you’d like to predict for the coming year?

I have not been in this market for a long enough time to venture such predictions. What I am sure of, though, is that the crisis will strongly impact the behaviour and choices of consumers, and that whoever guesses rightly what these changes are will emerge as a winner.

Greece is reputed to be among the highest per capita consumers of whisky in the world? Is Chivas still considered a ‘mythical’ drink?

Chivas is the clear leader of the Super Premium whisky, and has reinforced its position, in a market which, despite the crisis, remains one of the major ones in this category.

What, according to you, should one absolutely have in one’s bar cabinet?

Our brands, obviously! Chivas Regal, Jameson, Ballantine’s, Beefeater, Absolut, Havana Club, Ricard, Champagne Mumm and Mini are a must.

If you want your bar to be exceptional, I would recommend to add some of our Super or Ultra-Premium additions, such as Chivas 25YO, Absolut Elyx, Beefeater 24 or Havana Club Seleccion de Maestros. For cocktails, the Eoliki liqueurs will offer you a great range of flavours, to be complemented with Malibu and Kahlua.

With all the choices you have from your portfolio, what is your favourite drink?

A hard question indeed, as I am spoiled for choice, but if I have to narrow it down, it will be a Jameson in the evening, and a Ricard before a meal.

If it were a toss-up between Ouzo and Pastis, what would you opt for?

They do not really compete. Ricard is great as an aperitif, while Ouzo works very well during a meal. So my perfect occasion is a nice Greek Mezze, preceded by a Ricard and accompanied with Mini. And then, as I always consume responsibly, I will get home with a taxi!

insider athens | February 2012 39

Taking travel a notch higher Nikos Bolias, General Manager of Travel Plan, the leading tour operator in Greece, speaks at length about the prospects in the tourism sector and the initiatives to explore new markets and exploit existing opportunities

The tourism industry is a key revenue earner in the Greek economy. What, in your opinion, are Greece’s key assets?

Greece is blessed with incredible natural beauty that no social, financial or political crisis can take away from it. It is its single biggest asset. For a country its size, Greece has an extremely varied offer – from pristine beaches to archaeological marvels, Byzantine churches, rich cuisine, adventure sports, nightlife, shopping, island-hopping and more. Next are the people. Greeks are a very resilient and enterprising people used to political upheavals and economic turbulence.

They have the fortitude to see through a crisis and make the most of the opportunities that might present themselves.

Thirdly, in some ways, the crisis has been an opportunity at both the macro and micro level for Greece to purge itself of some of its inefficient systems and structures.

As far as tourism is concerned, it has long been an industry that has contributed significantly to both the country’s GDP, employing a fifth of its labour force. Most of the hotels and facilities had received a face-lift just prior to the Olympics in 2004, so Greece has five-star facilities to offer at extremely competitive rates and high levels of service. More than ever before, Greece is ready to showcase itself to the rest of the world.

At Travel Plan, we believe it is not only our national responsibility but also a strategy based on our firm conviction that we have an excellent product to sell and it is up to us to reveal the full potential of what Greece has to offer.

Gulay Ozturk of Turkish Airlines presenting an award of appreciation to Nikos Bolias of Travel Plan

40 insider athens | February 2012

Travel Plan is one of the most established players in the tourism industry. What are the strategies you have adopted to build on your reputation in the domestic market and expand into new markets abroad?

It is interesting to note that despite the crisis, 2011 saw record tourist arrivals into Greece. 16 million tourists chose

travel

Travel

to spend their hard-earned holidays in Greece. It reflects not only on the goodwill Greece has created for itself (despite persistently negative images being flashed on news bulletins) but also on the high level of service provided by tourism professionals here. Travel executives in Greece are a committed lot, not easily flustered by change of plans, used to long working hours and with an innate sense of Greek hospitality, ‘filoxenia’.

Travel Plan has long been known in Greece for providing quality services to Greeks visiting domestic and foreign destinations for over 30 years. (It was awarded by Superbrands as the most recognizable tour operator in Greece).Travel Plan has a strong presence in Greece with 30 branches across the country, with an in-house marketing department covering all aspects of the travel business from outbound, inbound, leisure, corporate, marine and incentives, supported by a team of 200 experienced professionals.

The next logical step was to expand. Our well-established brand and experience have helped us to penetrate into new emerging markets such as China, India, the Middle East, Turkey and the Balkans. Towards that end, we have created a strong ‘incoming’ team, supported by the latest technological software as well as a large network of contacts in these markets. The accent is on creating more depth and breadth, organizing specialized events from weddings to conferences as well as catering to large groups with standard packages.

In 2011, Travel Plan successfully organized FAM trips for journalists and tour operators from the countries mentioned above. We have also participated in key travel exhibitions worldwide including IMEX in Las Vegas, WTM in London, FITUR in Madrid and EMIT in Istanbul and will be present at other exhibitions around the world, including Australia and China. We have also been building on a close and fruitful partnership with foreign embassies here to promote Travel Plan’s services in their respective countries through promotional events such as the Indonesian Cultural and Food Festival in December 2011.

What are the initiatives taken by Travel Plan to meet the challenges of a difficult economic climate?

One of the biggest challenges has been that Greece has been in the headlines for all the wrong reasons. But a few things Greece can always rely on are its unlimited supply of sunshine, its breath-taking natural beauty and the optimistic mindset of its people. But beyond that, both tourism officials and the travel industry realize only too acutely, at how critical the tourism sector is in bolstering both the national economy and Greece’s international image.

A big chunk of the effort by Travel Plan has been to get first-time tourists to get excited about Greece as a destination. Travel Plan has been quick to adapt its product mix by squeezing costs, maintaining standards and by creating tailor-made services to meet the needs and demands of our international and domestic customers.

The crisis might actually be a boon, as Greece can once again become a competitive and affordable destination.

Our partners in the travel industry have been appreciative of our efforts and we have been awarded by airline companies such as Etihad Airways and Turkish Airlines.

Are you confident that Greece will be able to maintain its attractiveness as a destination?

Travel Plan has been working hard to present Greece ‘beyond the headlines’ and it has been reassuring to note that tourism counterparts across the world have been responding positively. According to LinkedIn’s Leading DMCs of the World, Greece has been voted as ‘the hottest MICE destination in Europe’ for 2012.

Any suggestions from Travel Plan for a perfect holiday?

Leave the planning to the professionals. At Travel Plan, we have the expertise, the infrastructure, the human resources and the vision to make your travel in Greece, whether for business or leisure, a memorable experience.

insider athens | February 2012 41

White getaways It’s February - time to get on the skis, down the slopes and on a powdery high of a different kind. While few associate Greece as a winter sports destination, it has its fair share of ski destinations from Kalavryta and Arachova closer to Athens and Karpenissi and Kaimaktsalan to the north. Athens Insider suggests Anemolia, tucked in breathtakingly beautiful Arachova as a perfect snowy getaway for families

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ong neglected as a ski destination, Greece offers some of the best getaways with its selection of pristine mountains covered with winter snows. The Greek National Tourism Organisation estimates that domestic ski tourism has seen phenomenal growth in the past six years. However, relatively few foreigners ski in Greece.

Even Greeks, who were used to skiing in better-known and betterorganised resorts in Switzerland, France, Austria and Italy, have only recently begun scouting around for domestic alternatives.

While mainly driven by domestic tourists, Greece has been attracting a trickle of interest from foreign tourists in search of inexpensive and unusual skiing, looking for low prices, and a good variety of slopes and ski centres. Skiing in Greece is a bargain compared to most other places, with lift passes considerably cheaper than other European destinations.

42 insider athens | February 2012

The weather in Greece has also been unseasonably cold this winter providing sports enthusiasts extra cheer and more opportunities to glide down the slopes. For true ski devotees, Mount Parnassus is the most suitable destination. With 25 marked ski runs and about 12 ski routes totalling 30km in length – the longest run being 4 km – the slopes of Mount Parnassus constitute the largest ski resort in Greece. This is the most cosmopolitan and preferred ski destination for Athenians as it is only 180kms from the capital. The nearby charming town of Arachova, with its authentic architecture has been drawing the jetset of the country for the past two decades and the archaeological site of Delphi has been enjoying a second season providing apres ski in a village that takes on even more of a storybook quality when dusted with snow.

Arachova also offers culinary delights in the form of its reputed formaela cheese and local brusco wine and has long been a bastion of

Travel

Greek handicrafts well known for its traditional woven goods.

snowmobiles, special outings and indoor activities. An extra bonus

For a full mountain experience, Anemolia hotel, situated on the out-

for its clients, the shuttle bus to Arachova is free!

skirts of the town on the road to Delphi and 20km from the Par-

Tempting as it might be just to laze around, Arachova and the area

nassus ski centre, with large private parking space available (this is

around Mt Parnassus lend itself perfectly for active cross-country

extremely rare in Arachova!), offers a cosy Swiss-chalet-like envi-

runs or mountain biking (there are some spectacular trails through

ronment. Its wooden and stone buildings harmoniously blend into

the national park area close to the ski centre, where if you’re lucky

the mountainside and it has a warm, rustic charm. The rooms are

you might glimpse foxes and hares). For those culturally inclined,

in soft colours, with quality fabrics and low lighting, and fantastic

don’t resist a day trip to the historic harbour village of Galaxidi,

views overlooking the breathtaking Delphi Valley. The facilities for

stopping off at the oracle of Delphi to learn a thing or two of what

après-ski, or après any other sports activity, are several. For those

the future has in store for you.

looking for some tender loving care (TLC), try the indoor swimming pool and the sauna. Konstantina Marini, who runs Anemolia under-

For more information, visit www.parnassos-ski.gr,

stands the needs of families only too well, having demanding kids of

tel: 22340 22373 and check www.snowreport.gr for details.

her own and has designed special packages for families that include

Hotel contact: www.anemolia.gr

insider athens | February 2012 43

Bathing beauty For an exclusive, sublime, and decadent experience, in a magical setting where the fragrance of cherry blossoms and lavender gently intoxicate and rejuvenate as clients drift pleasurably from loofa scrubs to corporal massages, followed by a timeless moment in the light therapeutic healing steam room and the relaxation-stimulating cool room, the Hammam is a delightful way to spend a whole afternoon. At crisis-friendly prices, it provides a real salve for Athens’ battered soul.

44 insider athens | February 2012

Wellness

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s Nagia Kourtis lay back in a hammam in Istanbul, soaking in the goodness of an Ali Mama routine, the vigorous massage stimulated a chain of thoughts inspiring her to embark on a mission - that of setting up an authentic hammam in the heart of Athens.

For Nagia, “It had to be the real thing – a real hammam, not just an opulent spa that ‘offered’ hammam treatments.” And so the search for an ideal location began. In Nagia’s mind, the venue had to be found in the city’s vibrant city centre, not in one of the more affluent suburbs to the north. The choice of space was critical as Nagia wanted it to evoke a sense of history. It had to be an older neo-classical house with high ceilings to recreate the grandeur of the domes and have the right size for changing rooms and therapy areas. When she finally found the building at the corner of the Ag. Assomaton and Meidoni streets, Nagia knew instantly that “this was it.” In a little alley that houses the Ministry of Culture and the Beth Shalom Synagogue, the Hammam looks like it could have been there for over a century, exuding the “timeless quality” that Nagia was so keen on projecting.

However, the paper chase for permits and of ‘educating’ the different arms of Greece’s administrative system on what a hammam was, also seemed timeless and more sweat-inducing than any steamed bath Nagia had experienced. She persevered, got her brother Stamatis and friend Xenia Kolias to join forces with her, found the perfect designer in Athens-based Turkish architect, Aysegul Ozer and the Hammam finally opened its doors a few months ago.

Nagia wants the Hammam to be as functional and social as it used to be in 18th century Turkey where men gathered to talk about politics and sports, while women kept their eyes peeled for suitable wives for their sons! And she has succeeded, somewhat!

Once you enter the Hammam, you are led into the changing rooms and offered a pestamal, a chequered special cloth like a pareo to cover the body and nalin, wooden clogs usually inlaid with beautiful mother-of-pearl motifs, that prevent slipping on the wet floor. (We preferred going in barefoot as the art of walking in clogs is a rather intimidating one). Just before heading for the steam room, you are led to the relaxation area, and we’d highly recommend you to imbue as much water as possible as once you’re in the steam room, you’ll be gasping for liquid fairly soon.

The architecture of the hammam is a real treat for the senses too. For centuries, architects have tried to perfect the intricate geometry of the hararet or the steam room. The steam room is usually a high domed,

octagonal (or square) room, revetted in marble, often with marvelous oculi to provide entry for sunlight that gives one the impression of staring into a starry night. The room itself is interspersed with intricate basins at various intervals and a heated marble platform, known as the naval stone or göbektasi, in the centre. In the case of the Hammam at Thissio, Nagia and Aysegul have done a remarkable job of combining the minimalist opulence of white marble rather than the drama of intricate mosaic, and accessorized it with the most authentic bath accoutrements. Nagia scouted around the bazaars in Syria and Turkey to find original silver and copper tas bowls that are used for pouring water on the body in the steam room. A little detail, but one worth mentioning, as even some hammams in Turkey have substituted the metal bowls with plastic ones!

The hammam ritual begins with the steam room. You can either sit or lie on the marble surface and scrub using an abrasive mitt (kese). The sound of the water trickling down is in itself liberating but combined with the steam and the amazing fragrance of almond blossoms, it is a truly sensual experience. The soap is natural and once you’ve spent around twenty minutes of steaming, scrubbing and rinsing with warm and cold water alternatively, you feel so squeaky clean that anything else you might have labeled as a bath until that point, seems like a splash in a stagnant puddle.

At this point you are most likely dehydrated and sleepy, and you can either retire to the ‘cold room’ or opt for the Ali Mama treatment that we would highly recommend which includes more rinsing and a deep, corporal massage. An hour later, you emerge, your skin velvety smooth, cheeks glowing, pores breathing. It is then that the purpose of that cold room with the lounge chairs becomes evident. You want to down at least a litre of cold water, have endless cups of tea and for those who need a quick sugar fix, a few sweet cubes of Turkish delight.

The Hammam offers other beauty treatments including waxing and pedicure and manicure and can be reserved for couples or groups.

Tuesdays are reserved for women and the Hammam is open on weekends and until late in the evening.

For special discounts, mention Insider when booking an appointment.

The Hammam, Ag Assoimaton 17 and Melidoni streets, Thissio.

Tel: 210 3231073, Opening hours: 13:00 to 22:00 daily and from 10:00 to 22:00 on weekends

insider athens | February 2012 45

Anything but a kitchen nightmare!

Marie-Diane Messirel enjoys a meal at Bo Botrini’s, charismatic chef Ettore Botrini’s eponymous new restaurant in Halandri and recommends it for an exquisite lesson in gastronomy in an idyllic setting.

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V audiences in Greece have long been familiar with Ettore Botrini’s loud performances in Efialtis stin Kouzina (the Greek version of the TV show, Kitchen Nightmare) trying to set standards in unruly kitchens along Greece’s hinterland, his appetite for Lay’s potato chips and his legendary ‘un-cheflike’ baseball cap. But beyond the glamour and glory of being a successful TV host, Botrini is arguably one of Greece’s most talented chefs.

Awarded several times for Etrusco, his restaurant on Corfu, Botrini tries to capture the essence of a Corfiot garden and the bounties of the verdant island’s countryside at his new restaurant in Halandri.

The restaurant in Athens is the happy outcome of his two careers as a chef and a TV host since it was originally launched as a TV show, Botrini’s Project on Alpha TV. The aim of the show was to highlight the difficult process of starting up a new restaurant and to give a unique opportunity to young aspiring chefs to start a career in the restaurant business.

The result is a gorgeous oasis from Corfu where Botrini introduces refined gastronomy to a wider audience by creating an innovative menu at very reasonable prices. For a crisis-friendly 40 euros a head, the Bo menu offers: an amuse bouche, starters, the main course, dessert and half a bottle of wine. For an extremely demanding chef, used to top-of-the-line ingredients, it is a daily challenge to match gourmet standards to a set price range.

Mixing and morphing his many influences onto the plate, Ettore Botrini invites us to follow him on the cosmopolitan path of his

46 insider athens | February 2012

culinary training with an amuse bouche, designed as a map where specialties from Greece, Italy, Germany, Spain and Morocco are artistically presented. He then goes back to his Greek-Italian roots suggesting dishes directly inspired from his childhood. His “Corfiot fritto misto” - delicious fried fish served on a bed of Moroccan sauce with “feta cheese snow” is a direct inspiration from Corfu’s bustling markets, where, as a child, he used to buy fried fish in paper wraps from old ladies. His menu features the basics of Greek and Italian cuisine (exquisite pastas and risottos) using a selection of the best local products (swordfish from Corfu, organic pork from Sparta), creatively reinvented to create a magical culinary experience. The result is stunning!

Why Halandri? According to Botrini, ‘Its central position was a draw but most of all, it was the coup de foudre I had for this charming house isolated in this unexpectedly green setting.’ In the summer, candle-lit tables are set in the restaurant’s lovely garden, bursting with the heady fragrance of orange blossoms, thyme and rosemary. In winter, dinner is served in the rooms of the warm and cozy house. It is then an occasion to discover the ebullient activity of the open kitchen where an army of young cooks serve under the lead of its charismatic chef who makes time between his endless trips to the kitchen to greet each and every guest.

Bo Botrini’s, Vasileos Georgiou B 24b, Halandri, Athens, Tel: 210 685 7323 http://www.botrinis.com Open: Tuesday – Saturday 7.30p.m to midnight and Sunday 1p.m. to 5p.m.

Restaurant review

insider athens | February 2012 47

Peas and Love Athens Insider reviews Avocado, the new vegetarian restaurant on Nikis street, that is as green and wholesome as its name suggests.

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rom our vantage point, we could observe Eraj Shakib flitting from table to table, taking orders, greeting regulars and juggling five dishes at a time. A wide, beaming smile, a lean frame and a sense of serenity that any small entrepreneur in crisis-ridden Greece would envy, Eraj literally practices what he preaches.

Avocado, he informs us, was the organic outcome of a dream he and his wife Vivi Letsou shared - of moving from San Francisco, “where you could set up a business in two hours”, to relocate to chaotic Athens to set up a yoga centre and retreat in 2003. The Yoga Centre is located right across the street at NIkis 25 and Avocado was born out of the need to have a “hub where like-minded people could get together, share a tasty vegetarian meal and stay on to participate in any number of workshops that Avocado hosts – from dervish dancing to kirtan chanting and tea-tasting. “ For Iranian-born Eraj, “Athens combined the best of both worlds – the East and the West. The anarchy and humanness of the East with the quality of life of the West.” Though it has still taken him ten years of living here to muster the nuances of the language and the workings of the notoriously arthritic Greek bureaucracy, there is no other place he’d rather be. For now, at least. Eraj confesses, “I do not make long-term plans. We have no children so that gives us the freedom to re-invent ourselves from scratch and to go where our heart wants us to.” But for now, Athens is home.

At Avocado, the décor is easy on the eye with a soothing apple-green hue on the walls that immediately take you to a calmer place than you were before you walked in. The staff seems to share the same holistic philosophy that pervades this cosy space. And the menu is a real revelation. For all those who associate vegetarian cuisine with ‘boring’complete with visual images of steamed broccoli and Brussels sprouts being thrust down reluctant throats as a kid – here is a restaurant determined to destroy that much-maligned myth. Vegetarian meals are fun, incredibly tasty, rich in protein and diverse.

The fun element seeps into the menu as well with dishes playfully named after Hollywood blockbusters and rock classics such as ‘Eat, Pray, Love’ and ‘Great Balls of Fire’. The menu reflects Eraj’s heritage

48 insider athens | February 2012

and life trajectory with influences from the Middle East, the Mediterranean, India, Mexico, even Scotland and a dash of San Franciscan flair.

As we scoured the menu, for once, not as guilty of tucking into a meal, dal, (traditional Indian lentil and mung bean soup with spices) was the first among many names to leap off the menu (The dal here is so authentically good, we’ve been ordering it in regularly at work ever since. For a quick Indian-fix, there is no better substitute). We paired it off with a mushroom veloute, followed it up with a falafel platter accompanied by the most exquisite grated beet and apple salad. We both opted for the tantalizingly tempting Ginger Passion (a fruity blend of carrot, apple, ginger and beet) And just in case, you have a sweet tooth, the Divine Express cake (Caprese chocolate and almond cake) is surely the fastest and the most sinful way to get to whatever blissful place you want to get to.

We were guaranteed our heaven/hell quota with the special dessert of the day: a crunchy, buttery shortbread packed with caramel and chocolate that would require at least a month’s worth of dog poses to work it out of one’s system.

Much to our delight (not to the benefit of our hips though) Avocado delivers to your doorstep from 11a.m to 9p.m. When lunch hour orders pour in, the staff is so stretched that on more than one occasion Eraj has had to abandon his queue at the tax office to whiz across town to deliver an order!

The lounge area upstairs is where workshops and impromptu chanting /meditation sessions are held. A bookshelf, low tables, mint-green cushions and a tiny triangular parapet that boasts of a thriving roof garden – all lend Avocado its unique ‘Let love in, let love out’ vibe.

As we finally took our leave, two hours and a thoroughly appetizing meal later, we did take some of that love out with us.

Avocado Vegetarian Restaurant/Café Nikis 30, Syntagma. Tel: 210 323 7878 www.avocadoathens.com

Restaurant review

insider athens | February 2012 49

Insider guide refer to corresponding area for more information and contact details

restaurant index by type AMERICAN JACKSON HALL Kolonaki TGI FRIDAY’S Kolonaki

ARGENTINEAN ORO TORO Vouliagmeni

ASIAN GOLDEN PHOENIX Halandri SAIPAN Halandri

BAR - RESTAURANTS APSENDI Halandri BACARO Omonia BALTHAZAR Mavili Sq BARAONDA Mavili Sq CENTRAL Kolonaki ECLIPSE Kolonaki ENTEKA Glyfada KITCHEN BAR Faliro & Halandri FRAME Kolonaki GINGER Mavili Sq ISLAND Vouliagmeni NIXON Kerameikos SEMIRAMIS RESTAURANT Kifissia SHOWROOM Kolonaki

FISH RESTAURANTS 7 THALASSES Kolonaki AI NIKOLAS Syngrou CAPTAIN JOHN’S Piraeus FISH BAR Glyfada ITHAKI Vouliagmeni JIMMY AND THE FISH Piraeus KASTELORIZO Kifissia KOLLIAS Syngrou LA PECHE Glyfada MILOS Hilton MYTHOS OF THE SEA Vouliagmeni PAPADAKIS Kolonaki PLOUS PODILATOU Piraeus PSAROMA Halandri THALATTA Gazi TO VAROULKO Kerameikos ZEFYROS Piraeus

FISH TAVERNAS ALMYRA Halandri DOURAMBEIS Piraeus KOLLIAS Piraeus MAISTRALI Vouliagmeni PSARAKI Vouliagmeni TRATA O STELIOS Pangrati VASSILENAS Piraeus

FRENCH L’ABREUVOIR Kolonaki LE PETIT SOMMELIER Faliro SPONDI Pangrati TARTARE Glyfada VARDIS Kifissia

GOURMET KUZINA Thissio ECLIPSE Kolonaki ESSENCE Kifissia FUGA Mavili Square FUNKY GOURMET Kerameikos

50 insider athens | February 2012

P-BOX Kolonaki, Kifissia POLLY MAGOO Metaxurgeio PREMIERE Syngrou

GREEK 2 MAZI Plaka ATHIRI Kerameikos CUCINA POVERA Pangrati DAKOS Kolonaki DIPORTO Psyrri EDODI Acropolis ELAEA BISTROT Acropolis FASOLI Exarhia IDEAL Omonia KARAVITIS Pangrati KAVOURAS Exarhia LIANA’S KITCHEN Glyfada MANI MANI Acropolis MARE MARINA Faliro PLATANOS Plaka PROSOPA Gazi RIFIFI Exarhia TO KOUTI Monastiraki YANTES Exarhia YDRIA Plaka

GRILL 1920 Halandri MEAT SQUARE Glyfada & Halandri

INDIAN INDIAN MASALA Thissio ISKANDAR Alimos JAIPUR PALACE Maroussi

ITALIAN AGLIO OLIO Acropolis ACQUA AZZURA Kifissia AL FRESCO Vouliagmeni AL MILANESE Kolonaki ALTRO Kolonaki BOSCHETTO Kolonaki CANTUCCIO Psyrri DA LUCIANO Vouliagmeni DA VINCI Ag. Paraskevi DVLCIS IN FVNDO Voula GENOVESE Voula LA CASA DI GIORGINO Gyfada IL SALOTTO Glyfada IL SEGRETO Voula MEZZA LUNA Vouliagmeni MULTI 22 Syntagma NANNINELA Ag. Paraskevi NOVO ROMANTICO DI ANTONIO Halandri PIZZA POMMODORO Kolonaki SALE E PEPE Kolonaki SCALA VINOTECA Kolonaki TONY BONANO Piraeus VINCENZO Glyfada

JAPANESE COO Kolonaki DOSIRAK syntagma FAR EAST Syntagma FREUD ORIENTAL Kolonaki FURIN KAZAN Syntagma GOLDEN PHOENIX Kifissia

INBI Kolonaki KIKU Kolonaki MATSUHISA ATHENS Vouliagmeni NOODLE BAR Syntagma SHOGUN Kifissia

KOSHER KOL TUV Monastiraki

LEBANESE BEIRUT Glyfada NARA NARA Psyrri NARGILE Kifissia

MEDITERRANEAN AIOLI RESTAURANT Glyfada BEREKET Glyfada BRACHERA Monastiraki BYZANTINE RESTAURANT Hilton CAFE AVYSSINIAS Monastiraki CAFE BOHEME Kolonaki CAFE TABAC Vouliagmeni DALI Halandri DAPHNE’S RESTAURANT Plaka DORIS Monastiraki ESSENCE Kifissia FATSIO Pangrati GALAZIA HYTRA Vouliagmeni GB CORNER Syntagma GRILL ROOM Vouliagmeni IDEAL RESTAURANT Omonia KITRINO PODILATO Gazi KOUZINA CINE-PSIRRI Psyrri MAGEMENOS AVLOS Pangrati MAGIREVONDAS Kolonaki MEIDANIS Monastiraki OCHRE & BROWN Psyrri OLIO BY PORTOFINO Ag. Paraskevi OMIKRON Kifissia PARLIAMENT Syntagma PRYTANEION Kolonaki PSARAKI Vouliagmeni RATKA Kolonaki TA KIOUPIA Kolonaki TO KOUTI Monastiraki TO POLITICO Glyfada ZEPHYROS Piraeus ZORBAS Piraeus

MEXICAN AMIGOS Glyfada DOS HERMANOS Kifissia EL TACO BUENO Maroussi LA TIENDA Glyfada SANTA FE Halandri

PUB RESTAURANTS BAYERN BIERHAUS MICROBREWERY Glyfada BEER ACADEMY glyfada BIER HAUS Vouliagmeni MOLLY MALONE’S Glyfada

ROOFTOP DINING ELECTRA Plaka GALAXY BAR Hilton IOANNIS Syntagma LE GRAND BALCON Kolonaki ORIZONTES LYKAVYTTOU Kolonaki ST’ASTRA Mavili Sq

SOUVLAKIA AND KEBAB BUTCHER’S SHOP Gazi DREAM GRILL Voula KALAMAKI KOLONAKI Kolonaki KILIZA Glyfada NAIADES Voula SAVVAS Monastiraki SCHARA Vouliagmeni SIGALAS-BAIRAKTARIS Monastiraki SOUVLAKI BAR Thissio THANASSIS Monastiraki ZAHOS Vouliagmeni

SPANISH PUERTA DE ESPANA Pangrati SALERO Exarhia

TAVERNAS AMMOS Piraeus FILIPOU Kolonaki LOUIZIDIS Vouliagmeni MAMACAS Gazi MARGARO Piraeus SKOUFIAS Exarhia VLASSIS Hilton

THAI ROYAL THAI Kifissia

VEGETARIAN AVOCADO Syntagma

WINE BARS CELLIER LE BISTROT Syntagma L’ENOTECA Halandri WHISPERS OF WINE Maroussi

Westin Kids Club

MEZEDES AND OUZO ATHINAIKON Omonia KIRKI Thissio OUZADIKO Kolonaki SCHOLARHEIO Plaka SOLON Piraeus

MULTI ETHNIC ALTAMIRA Kolonaki

POLYNESIAN KONA KAI Syngrou

Register Now!

210.890.2000

The Tea Route reaches everyone The Tea Route • Haritos 5, Athens • Chr. Smyrnis 12, Thessaloniki www.tearoute.gr

insider athens | February 2012 51

Insider guide SHOP GIFTS Greece is for Lovers

Peperonicino

Porinou 13 , Tel: 210.921.1801 Authentic Italian pasta in a cozy setting, accompanied by luscious salads and homemade dolci

Beles 1 and Androutsou Tel: 210.924.7655 Raisin bread, almond shortbread, yummy cookies & tasty loaves

Yantes

Vitonos 5, Tel: 210.346.4204 Fresh seafood creations

Valtetsiou 44, Tel: 210.330.1369 Modern Greek cuisine prepared with organic ingredients. 20 Euros per person

DRINK

SHOP Syllektiko Paleopolio Asklipiou 41, Tel: 210.364.1718 Antiques of all sorts and restoration services

Vinyl Microstore Didotou 34, Tel: 210.361.4544 New vinyls & cds; also reissues from the 60s & more

DRINK Circus Bar Navarinou 11, Tel: 210.361.5255 Attracts a hip and happening crowd in a cozy space

Ginger Ale

EAT

Persefonis 19, Tel: 210.341.3440 Traditional psistaria serving grilled meat dishes

Butcher’s Shop

Mamacas Persefonis 41, Tel: 210.346.4984 Modern taverna located in an old barrel warehouse offering traditional Greek fare

Themistokleous 64, Tel: 210.381.0202 Dine while enjoying live Rebetika music

Matilde Pizza Bar Makriyanni 19-21, Tel: 210.923.8124 Homemade ice cream and waffles

Constantinoupoleos 44, Tel: 210 3411878 Authentic Italian cuisine in a cosy setting

Mani Mani

Kitrino Podilato

52 insider athens | February 2012

Andronikou 4, Tel: 210.342.4994 A staple of Athenian nightlife

Grande Dame

Arahovas 56 & Themistokleous Tel: 210.383.5811, One of the oldest summer cinemas in Athens is a picturesque place for a retro-tinged drink

Veikou 80 , Tel: 210.921.3013 Fresh ingredients presented at your table, then cooked to perfection

Falirou 10. Tel: 210.921.8180 Peloponnesian specialities with Mediterranean touches

Barouge

Vox

EAT

Kavouras

Triptolemou 12, Tel: 210.347.4763 Lounge in a modern atmosphere while listening to music from around the world

Dirty Ginger

Kallidromiou 87-89, Tel: 210.881.1233 Imported second-hand clothes; individuality guaranteed

Emanouil Benaki 45 , Tel: 210.330.0010 A great meal in an uplifting environment

Almaz

Themistokleous 74, Tel: 210.330.1246 Enjoy a cocktail or a coffee in a retro pop atmosphere

Edodi

Gelato-CafĂŠ

Thalatta

BARS, CLUBS & LOUNGES

Fasoli

Asimenia Bakery

Meg. Vasiliou 52 & Konstantinoupoleos 4 Tel: 210.341.3433, Delicious dishes in a warm atmosphere right beside the train tracks. A popular gay haunt.

Lontou 4, Tel: 210.382.8206 Exceptional entrees you are unlikely to find elsewhere

Yesterday's Bread

Mani Mani

Prosopa

Valtetsiou 51, Tel: 210.381.3358 Spanish and mediterranean cuisine in the heart of Exarhia

Keramikou 116, Tel: 210.346.5830 Mediterranean cuisine in a modern industrial atmosphere

Triptolemou 46, Tel: 210.342.3809 Excellent cocktails Persefonis 23, Tel: 210.341.6412 Chic bar serving elaborate champagne cocktails

Nipiagogeio Elasidon & Kleanthous 8 Tel: 210.345.8534, For late-night dancing to funky electronic music

Villa Mercedes Andronikou & Tzaferi 11 Tel: 210.342.2380 Mega club ideal for all-night dancing

LIVE GREEK MUSIC Athinon Arena Pireos 166, Tel: 210.347.1111 The latest in live Greek music acts

Hilton

Aglio Olio &

Salero

Gazi

EAT

Central Athens

Skoufias

Exarhia

Karyatidon 13A Tel: 210.924.5064 www.greeceisforlovers.com Tongue-in-cheek souvenirs for the discerning traveller

Ilias Lalaounis museum

Acropolis

Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

EAT Alatsi Vrassida 13, Tel: 210.721.0501 Exquisite Cretan specialties

Byzantine Restaurant

Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1400 Traditional Greek recipes with a Mediterranean twist

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.724.4400 Simply prepared local flavours.

Guaranteed value for money

Milos Garden

Vlassis Neandrou 15, Tel: 210.646.3060 & 210.725.6335, Family-run taverna serving traditional Greek food

To Varoulko

Jack in the Box

DKNY

Pireos 80, Tel: 210.522.8400 Seafood prepared by Michelin star-winning chef Lefteris Lazarou

Haritos 13, Tel: 210.725.8735 Beautiful wooden toys and more

Solonos 8, Tel: 210.360.3775 Classic American sportswear

Marie Chantal Boutique

Elina Lebessi

Spefsippou 11, Tel: 210.722.2029 Old-fashioned chic for little princes and princesses

Iraklitou 13, Tel: 210.363.1731 Ethereal frocks, pretty tea-dresses and accessories from around the world

Mouyer

Ermenegildo Zegna

Kanari 8, Tel: 210.361.7714 Good-quality orthopaedic shoes as well as funkier styles

Skoufa 18, Tel: 210.361.3700 Home of fine fabrics and handsome tailor-finished suits

Kolonaki

Milos

SHOP ANTIQUES Kilim Hali Valaoritou 9 Tel: 210.363.7056 www.kilimhali.gr Antique carpets from around the world

BEAUTY & COSMETICS Apivita

Kanari 24, Tel: 210.362.7334 Fairytale dresses in lace and embroidery from Greece's doyenne designer

Hugo Boss Amerikis 19, Tel: 210.360.0516 Smart separates for a work wardrobe Kanari 8, Tel: 210.362.7768 Menswear from Armani, Boss and Allen Edmonds brogues

Kalogirou

Frattina Kanari 21, Tel: 210.360.4481 Casual clothing and gifts for kids Bespoke Athens

Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1801 Indoor and outdoor pools

Olive Tree Spa Chatzigiani Mexi 4 Tel: 210.724.4425

EAT Funky Gourmet

Bespoke Athens Anagnostopoulou 15-17 Tel: 210.364.5518, Made-to-measure suits and shirts from top international tailors

Athiri

Kanari 18, Tel: 210.361.4155 Greece's design ambassadors create structural separates and heavenly bridal gowns. www.deuxhommes.gr

Agisilaou 61B, Tel: 210.346.2077 Burgers, a private cinema & an artsy crowd. Open for brunch on Sundays at noon

Kathy Heyndels Patriarchou Ioakeim 21 Tel: 210.729.9966 Greek label selling barely-there gowns and basics with a twist

Kanari 12, Tel: 210.362.7123 Designer items from Prada, Brioni, Donna Karan, Fendi and other top-flight brands

Coach

Nixon

Patriarchou Ioakim 4, Tel: 210.335.6401 Fetish footwear from Prada, Tod's & Casadei

Carouzos

Paramythias 13 and Salaminos, Tel: 210 524 2727 Haute cuisine in art deco interior Plataion 15, Tel: 210.346.2983 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine in beautiful surroundings

Giorgio Armani

Incrocio

Kanari 5, Tel: 210.339.2597 Designer togs for tots

Hiltonia Health & Wellness Club

Voukourestiou 50 Tel: 210.364.1308 A haven of hip, carrying labels from Balenciaga to Martin Margiela to Marlene Birger

CHILDREN Galaxy Bar

Kerameikos

Atelier Loukia

Free Shop

Koumbari 8, Tel: 210.361.3603 Suit- and dress-maker to the stars

Bambineria

CHILL

FASHION

Solonos 26 Tel: 210.364.0560 Shop natural Greek cosmetics, get a prescription cream made up and have a quick massage

DRINK Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1402 Rooftop cocktails in a chic atmosphere

Central Athens

Tsakalof 28, Tel: 210.362.5669 Leather totes and luggage in easy American style

Deux Hommes

Diesel Skoufa 3, Tel: 210.362.2748 A treasure trove of denim, and all the hip accoutrements to go with it

Dior Boutique Voukourestiou 18-20, Tel: 210 361.3014 High-end designer fashion

insider athens | February 2012 53

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

La Perla

Preview

Spefsippou 14, Tel: 210.729.9720 Lingerie to flaunt

Patriarchou Ioakim 19 Tel: 210.722.4731 High fashion designer shoes

Lacoste Solonos 5, Tel: 210.361.8030 French take on American sportswear

Lanvin Iraklitou 9 Tel: 210.360.8315 Alber Elbaz's gloriously chic take on the classic French couture house

Linea Piu Sekeri 6, Tel: 210 360.6125 Collections from exclusive fashion houses including Chanel, Galliano, Lagerfeld and Sonia Rykiel

Luisa Skoufa 15, Tel: 210.363.5600 Designer emporium stocked with Chloe, Roberto Cavalli, Ralph Lauren, Missoni & more

Marc by Marc Jacobs Xanthou 3, Tel: 210.363.6030 Budget knick-knacks and must-have casuals from America's fashion hero

Nike Tsakalof 34, Tel: 210.363.6188 Trainers, tracksuits and other swoosh-marked sports paraphernalia

Puma Concept Kanari 17, Tel: 210.361.0516 International sportswear for all ages

Rere Papa Skoufa 62, Tel: 210.364.4300 Distinctive creations by two young Greek women and other international imports

Thalassa Collection Patriarchou Ioakim 30-32 Tel: 210.725.8525 Original silk designs for scarves, ties, shawls & blouses

Christofle Koumbari 5, Tel: 210.362.0483 Classis silver and crystal ideal for wedding gifts

La Fenetre Irodotou 21, Tel: 210.723.5029 Elegant objects and sophisticated gifts for the house, mostly from France

Parousiasi Patriarchou Ioakim 33, Tel: 210.723.7656, A range of international brands in crystal, china and other eye-catching homeware accessories

JEWELLERY

Vlassis Holevas

Apriati

Anagnostopoulou 19 Tel: 210.361.6167, Elegant fashion with a contemporary twist

Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings

Elena Votsi

FLOWERS Fleria Patriarchou Ioakim 35 Tel: 210.722.9697

Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation-starting pieces in gold and stone

Fanourakis

FOOD & WINE

Patriarchou Ioakim 23 Tel: 210.721.1762, Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings

Cava Anthidis

Folli Follie

Ypsilantou 13-15, Tel: 210.725.1050 Comprehensive wine and liquor wholesalers

Kylix Karneadou 20, Tel: 210.724.5143 Quality picks from the world’s best vineyards; including Greek labels

Wine Garage Xenokratous 25, Tel: 210.721.3175 Browser-friendly cava with helpful service

Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Tel: 210.323.0739, Greece's highstreet export stocks affordable watches and everyday bijoux

Liana Vourakis Anagnostopoulou 26-8 Tel: 210.362.2564 For unique baptism and wedding gifts, start here

Lylian Syrigou

GADGETS

Anagnostopoulou 12, Tel: 210.361.3350 Handcrafted bijoux and one-off designer pieces. www.liliansyrigou.gr

Octopus

Magia

Eclipse

Solonos 15, Tel: 210.363 6677 Quirky designs with a sense of humour

GIFTS

Observatory Attitudes Solonos 9, Tel: 210.364.6910 The ultimate fashion store www.attitudes.gr

Vas. Sofias & Koumbari Tel: 210.367.1045, Artefacts and jewellery inspired by the museum’s exhibits

Paul & Shark

Liana Vourakis

Anagnostopoulou 6, Tel: 210.339.2334 Casual yachting styles

Pindarou 42, Tel. 2103617705

54 insider athens | February 2012

HOME

Benaki Museum Gift Shop

Haritos 18, Tel: 210.724.0697 Ileana Makri's silver jewellery amid eclectic pieces from New York

Oxette Skoufa 37, Tel: 210.339.0547 Trendy, affordable jewellery

Central Athens EAT BAKERIES & PATISSERIES Cake Irodotou 15, Tel: 210.721.2253 For real American homemade cheesecake, brownies and more

Fresh Kriezotou 12, Tel: 210.364.2948/ Loukianou 21, Tel: 210.729.3453 Desserts and cakes

RESTAURANTS 7 Thalasses Omirou 11, Tel: 210.362.4825 Fresh fish with refined service

Al Milanese Xenokratous 49, Tel: 210.729.4111 Authentic Italian cuisine for the discerning

Altamira (Multi-ethnic) Tsakalof 36A, Tel: 210 361 4695 Flavours of multiethnic cuisine

Altro Haritos 39, Tel: 210.724.2717 Tiny funky restaurant that specializes in Italian food

Boschetto Evangelismos Park, Tel: 210.721.0893 Italian food in a lush central setting

Cafe Boheme Omirou 36, Tel: 210.360.8018 Welcoming nook with Greek cooking and more-ish cocktails

Coo Dinokratous 1, Tel: 210.725.4008 A Mykonos favourite now in Athens

Dakos Tsakalof 6, Tel: 210.894.7040 New-age Cretan specialties

Eclipse (Bar restaurant) Alopekis 21, Tel: 210 364 1545 Fabulous cocktails and creative Mediterranean cuisine by Yiannis Baxevannis

Filipou Xenokratous 19, Tel: 210.721.6390 Home-cooked Greek taverna dishes

Frame

Skoufa 30, Tel: 210.364.2139 Greek silver fashion jewellery

St George Lycabettus Hotel Dinokratous, Tel: 210.721.4368 Exotic cuisine in the heart of Athens

Van Cleef & Arpels

Freud Oriental

Ozzi

Voucourestiou 1, Tel: 210.331.0319 The jeweller of the international jetset

Xenokratous 21, Tel: 210.729.9595 Sushi in a cool setting

Central Athens

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr Ouzadiko

Ta Kioupia

Ten

Karneadou 25-26, Tel: 210.729.5484 Traditional Greek appetizers & ouzo

Dinokratous & An Polemou 22 Tel: 210.740.0150 Superb set menu of Greek and Continental classics with refined touches

Ploutarhou 10, Tel: 210.321.7836 One of the most popular hot spots in town

Papadakis Fokilidou 15 & Voukourestiou 47A Tel: 210.360.8621 Paros' legendary gourmet restaurant serving seafood in the heart of Athens

P-BOX Haritos 24, Periscope hotel Tel: 210 7298556, Simple ingredients, special flavours in a setting designed

by Theodore Zoumboulakis

TGI Friday’s Kolokotroni 35, Kefalari sq.

Tel: 210.623.3945 American restaurant with real steak and barbecue sauce for casual dining!

W Kanari 24, Tel: 697.270.0712 Private seating areas, speciality cocktails & exclusives events

CAFÉS Da Capo Tsakalof 1, Tel: 210.243.3902 Long-established people-watching hangout

Peros Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.364.5068 Enjoy a cup of java if you can find a spot

Inbi

TEA

Iraklitou 21, Tel: 210.339.2090 Sushi fusion

To Tsai Soutsou & Likavitou, Tel: 210.338.8941 Tea & tea paraphernalia from around the world

Jackson Hall Milioni 4, Tel: 210.361.6098 Gourmet burgers with all the fixings Ploutarhou 32, Tel: 210.721.8800 Souvlakia on the sidewalk have never been so trendy

Kiku Dimokritou 12, Tel: 210.364.7033 Fresh, beautifully presented sushi

Prytaneion

DRINK

Milioni 7, Tel: 210.364.3353 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

BARS, CLUBS & LOUNGES

Ratka Haritos 32, Tel: 210.729.0746 Popular haunt of the rich and almost famous, with cosmopolitan cuisine

Sale e Pepe Aristipou 34, Tel: 210.723.4102 Authentic Italian trattoria

Central

Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.724.5938 The place to see & be seen while sipping on coffee or cocktails

Mai Tai Ploutarhou 18, Tel: 210.725.8306 Early evening cocktails in a laid-back atmosphere

Mavili Sq

Kalamaki Kolonaki

DRINK Balthazar Tsoha 27, Tel: 210.644.1215 Lovely garden and chic interior attracts a cool crowd

Baraonda Tsoha 43, Tel: 210.644.4308 Gourmet cuisine and funky beats

Briki Dorileou 6, Mavili sq.

Tel: 210.654.2380 Trendy hole-in-the-wall hangout

Flower Dorileou 2, Mavili sq.

Tel: 210.643.2111, Fun, funky and affordable watering hole

Scala Vinoteca L'Abreuvoir Xenokratous 51, Tel: 210.722.9106 Fine French cuisine

Le Grand Balcon St George Lycabettus Hotel, Kleomenous 2, Tel: 210.729.0711 Gourmet Greek cuisine

Orizontes Lycavyttou Lycabettus Hill, Tel: 210.722.7065 Gourmet dining with a spectacular view

Sina 50, Tel: 210.361.0041 Mediterranean restaurant ideal for wining & dining

Showroom Milioni 12, Tel: 210.364.6460 Missoni-designed interiors, serving unique Mediterranean flavours

Square Sushi Deinokratous 65, Tel: 210.725.5236 High-quality sushi & other Japanese favourites

20% Off! Cut this coupon & avail

of 20% off on all exclusive brands at Sephora’s stores in Greece.

insider athens | February 2012 55

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Central Athens

Avissynias 3, Tel: 210.321.7202 Traditional Greek recipes with a European twist overlooking the Acropolis & Observatory

Café Avyssinias

Kynetou 7, Tel: 210.321.7407 Spcializing in regional dishes & live music on weekends

Doris

Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2671 Hearty stews & pasta dishes at reasonable prices

Kol Tuv

Normanou 4, Tel: 210.524.4049 The only kosher restaurant in Athens serving traditional shabat meals

Meïdanis

Sokratous 3 & Evripidou Tel: 210.324.9073, A menu that is sure to please with speciality oven dishes

Savvas

Mitropoleos 86, Tel: 210.321.9919 Gyros & Middle Eastern dishes like pastourmali

Fuga Vas.Sofias & Kokkali 1, Tel: 210 724 2979 Italian inspired menu by chef Andrea Berton at the Athens Concert Hall

Ginger Dorileou 10-12, Tel: 210.645.1169 Original dishes and innovative combinations in an elegant atmosphere

St’Astra

Metaxurgeio

Alexadras 10, Tel: 210.889.4500 For an unforgettable roof-top dining experience

SHOP ANTIQUES Darousos

Souvlaki Bar

FOOD & WINE

Mitropoleos 69, Tel: 210.324.4705 A souvlaki lover’s paradise

Arapian

Adrianou 7 & Thisiou 15, Tel: 210 5150550

To Kouti

Bahar

Pandrosou 36, Tel: 210.321.3842 An eclectic cafe & bookshop

EAT

Evripidou 45, Tel: 210.321.7187 Sausages, pastrami & cured meats

Polly Maggoo

Paleovivliopolio Hiotakis Normanou 7 Tel: 210.324.7835 Historic bookshop houses rare & old books

EAT Bairaktaris Monastiraki Square 2 Tel: 210.321.3036 Old-world taverna serving traditional Greek fare

Themistokleous 2, Tel: 210.383.8485 A traditional Greek ouzeri

SHOP BEAUTY & COSMETICS Korres Ivikou 8 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.722.2774 Natural Greek products made using Mediterranean herbs

EAT Cucina Povera Evforionos 13 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.756.6008, Greek cuisine with a menu that changes daily

Fatsio Efroniou 5, Tel: 210.721.7421 Greek food & political gossip

Karavitis Arktinou & Pausaniou Tel: 210.721.5155 Classic Greek cuisine in a dining room lined with wine casks

Magemenos Avlos

Thanassis

Evripidou 41, Tel: 210.321.7238 Old-style butcher shop offers interesting sausages, pasturma & smoked meats

Miran

56 insider athens | February 2012

Monastiraki Sq. 2, Tel: 210.321.3036 Century-old restaurant serving a variety of fresh dishes

Normanou 7 Tel: 210.331.1638 Small antique shop in the heart of the flea market

Evripidou 31, Tel: 210.321.7225 Well-known herb haven

Leonidou 80 & Salaminos, Tel: 210 524 1120 Gourmet cuisine in a post-modern and industrial setting.

New hot spot for the trendy

Sigalas-Bairaktaris

Amynta 4, Tel: 210.722.3195 Mediterranean fare, welcoming decor & generous servings

Adrianou 23, Tel: 210.321.3229 Mediterranean fare right next to the ancient agora

Puerte de Espana

DRINK

Spondi

Orea Ellas

Pyrronos 5, Tel: 210.756.4021 A mix of European & more exotic flavours. Voted one of the best in Athens

Omonia

EAT

Monastiraki

Fuga

Athinaikon

Pangrati

Brachera

SHOP

Antinoros 42, Tel: 210.725.8666 Spanish cuisine & live music

DEPARTMENT STORES Hondos Center

Omonia Square, Tel: 210.528.2800 Cosmetics, perfumes, luggage, clothing, & much, much more

EAT Ideal Restaurant

Panepistimiou 46, Tel: 210.330.3000 Greek classics in old-world decor

Bacaro

Sophokleous 1 & Aristidou Tel: 210.321.1882, Lavish Italian and contemporary dishes

Spondi

Trata o Stelios Anagenniseos Sq. 7-9, Tel: 210.729.1533 The best grilled fish in town

Plaka

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr SHOP

HOME

ANTIQUE

Notoshome

STORES

Kratinou 5, Tel: 210.374.3000 Home décor superstore

Maritinos Pandrosou 50 Tel: 210.321.2414 Specializes in 19th Century folk art, embroidery & furniture

FOOD & WINE

EAT Cantuccio Lepeniotou & Ivis 1 Tel: 210.323.3670 Authentic Italian cuisine in a friendly environment

Diporto

Nikis 52, Tel: 210.322.9146 Packaged & fresh speciality foods

Theatrou & Sokratous Tel: 210.321.1463 Old-world tavern offers bargain basics like salads, sardines & fava

GIFTS

Kouzina Cine-Psirri

Mesogaia

Amorgos Kodrou 3, Tel: 210.324.3836 Hand-carved & painted furniture

Sari 44, Tel: 210.321.5534 Mediterranean fare & eclectic music

Nara Nara Karaiskaki 26, Tel: 210.331.2091 Lebanese food & dancing

EAT

Ochre & Brown

2 Mazi

Leokoriou 7, Tel: 210.331.2950 Mediterranean/French cuisine

Daphne’s Restaurant Lysikratous 4, Tel: 210.322.7971 Refined classic Greek dishes in a resplendent atmosphere

Electra Nikodimou 18-20, Tel: 210.337.0000 Roof-top dining with Greek cuisine

Platanos Diogenous 4, Tel: 210.322.0666 One of the few remaining tavernas preserving 1940s Athens

Scholarheio Tripodon 14, Tel: 210.324.1605 A traditional tray taverna with old fashioned decor & prices

Ydria

Psyrri

Adrianou 68 & Eolou Tel: 210.325.1619 Taditional Greek cuisine

SHOP

BOOKS

GADGETS

Eleftheroudakis

Public

Panepistimiou 17, Tel: 210.325.8440 The largest foreign language bookstore in Greece

Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.324.6210, Five floors of gaming, gadgets & books

Kauffman Stadiou 28, Tel: 210.322.2160 Mostly French books and small selection of English fiction

DEPARTMENT STORES

DRINK

Attica

BARS, CLUBS & LOUNGES

Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury goods

Soul

Fokas

Evripidou 65, Tel: 210.331.0907 Show off your groovy disco moves

Syntagma

Nikis 48, Tel: 210.322.2839 Creative gourmet dishes that change monthly

Central Athens

SHOP ACCESSORIES Bag Stories

Stadiou 41, Tel: 210.325.7770 Clothes, shoes and accessories for men, women & children

Stock House & Travel Ermou 45, Tel: 210.324.7732 Outlet store featuring brands from Parousiasi, Cook Shop & Bag Stories

GIFTS Argalios Filellinon 7, Tel: 210.322.2659 Hand-woven fabrics & souvenirs since 1940

Graf Von Faber-Castell Boutique Panepistimiou 41, Tel: 210.321.8564 Traditional hand-held writing utensils

Kori Mitropoleos 13, Tel: 210.323.3534 Traditional & contemporary jewellery

Psarros 1917 Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.322.0908 Executive gifts and smoking accessories

HOME

Panepistimiou 41, Tel: 210.323.7405 Luggage & travel bags by Tumi, Porsche Design, Rimowa & Delsey

FASHION - MEN’S

ANTIQUES

FLOWERS

JEWELLERY

Antiqua

Dromoloulouda

Apriati

Vassilis Amalias 2-4, Tel: 210.323.2220 One of the oldest antique stores in Athens

FASHION Christoforos Kotentos

BEAUTY & COSMETICS

Sachtouri 3, Tel: 210.325.5434 Glamorous & unique designs

MAC Ermou 44, Tel: 210.325.8260 International cosmetic brand for women who like to play with colour

Pagoni Akadimias 61, Tel: 210.363.9277 Selling ties and cufflinks since 1933

Voulis 15, Tel: 210.323.2321 Specializing in arrangements with wild flowers, many indigenous to Greece

FOOD & WINE Aristokratikon Karageorgi Servas 9, Tel: 210.322.0546 Handmade chocolates

Cellier Kriezotou 1, Tel: 210.361.0040 Speciality wine shop

Baccarat Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.2863 Fine crystal from the venerable French luxury house

Pentelis 9 & Mitropoleos, Tel: 210.322.9020 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings

Bulgari Voukourestiou 8, Tel: 210.324.7118 Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories

Cartier Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison

insider athens | February 2012 57

Insider guide Gofas

Vassilis Zoulias Old Athens

Parliament

Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.331.7540 High-end timepieces

Akadimias 30, Tel: 210.361.4762 Handmade shoes and handbags inspired by films of the 50s & 60s

Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400 International cuisine with Mediterranean accents

Ilias Lalaounis Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller

Kessaris Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces

Marathianakis Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.7118 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs

Zolotas

Chopard Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou 210.325.0555 Legendary time pieces and jewellery.

Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the antique & classical periods as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso

SHOES

Folli Follie

Spiliopoulos

Ermou 18, Tel: 210.323.0739 Trendy & affordable jewellery & accessories

Ermou 63, Tel: 210.322.7590 Pick up a pair of Manolo’s at half price!

EAT Avocado

Club Eat

See

The concierge of the Grande Bretagne Hotel in Syntagma Square recommends: George Economou collection at the new municipal gallery in Metaxourgeio Spondi, 2 star Michelin restaurant in Pangrati Cibus for Greek cuisine and Acropolis view in the Nat.Gardens Varoulko Michelin star with gourmet fish cuisine in Gazi Papadakis good island cuisine in Kolonaki Vanilla Club at Kanari 24 Villa Mercedes at Andronicou & Zafeiri 11, Rouf Messiah Rebirth at Karneadou 25 in Kolonaki Baraonda, Tsocha 43, Ambelokoipi

Paul Panepistiomiou 10, Tel: 210.722.4824 A true French patisserie

Nikis 30, Tel: 210 3237878 Vegetarian restaurant

DRINK

Cellier Le Bistrot

BARS, CLUBS & LOUNGES

Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.363.8525 Excellent dishes accompany the extensive list of international wines

Dosirak Voulis 31-33, Tel: 210.323.3330 Japanese & Korean cuisine in the heart of Athens

To Ergastirio to Baxevani Nikis 58 & Kydathynaion Tel: 210.322.2839 Traditional Greek cuisine combined with modern elements

Far East Stadiou 7, Tel: 210.323.4996 A mix of Asian cuisines in elegant surroundings

Boutique Filellinon 15, Tel: 210.323.1315 Popular Athenian night spot

Explorer’s Lounge NJV Athens Plaza, Syntagma Square, 210.335.2400, Magnificent cocktails and live jazz in an intimate atmosphere

Kalua Amerikis 6, Tel: 210.360.8304 Dance the night away in a chic environment

Tasaki Bar Miltiadou 19, Tel: 210 3310666

T Palace King George Palace Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.322.2210 Great for mingling & people-watching

Furin Kazan Apollonos 2, Tel: 210.322.9170 A Japanese favourite of expats & Athenians alike

GB Corner

58 insider athens | February 2012

Central Athens

Hotel Grand Bretagne Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0750 Luxurious surroundings, Mediterranean cuisine

Indian Kitchen Apollonos 6, Tel: 210 3237720

Ioannis Royal Olympic Hotel Ath. Diakou 28-34, Tel: 210.928.8400 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine with breathtaking views from the rooftop

Meatropoleos 3 Mitropoleos 3, Tel: 210 3241805 Modern greek grill restaurant

Multi 22 Ermou 116 & Leokoriou Tel: 210.331.6766 Italian fare served in a neoclassical house

Noodle Bar Apollonos 11, Tel: 210.331.8585 A congenial place to drop in for a quick noodle fix

CHILL GB Spa Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0799 Award-winning spa featuring treatments by E’SPA, Valmont & Algoane

Holmes Place Stadiou 4 & Voukourestiou Tel: 210.325.9400, Fully equipped health club with excellent array of classes

The Palace Spa Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.374.3590 Ideal for rejuvenation after a long flight or a hectic bout of shopping

Syngrou

Zolotas pendant in gold with diamonds

Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

EAT Peacock Hotel Hera, Falirou 9, Tel: 210 923 6682 Traditional food with breathtaking Acropolis views

Kollias Syngrou Ave. 303 Tel: 210 940 8620 Excellent seafood in a pleasant Mediterranean atmosphere

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr Plous Podilatou

Syngrou Ave. 156, Tel: 210 923 2918 Original seafood dishes, fresh ingredients and simple elegant interior

Ak. Koumoundourou 42 Tel: 210.413.7910 Sumptuous seafood & mouth-watering deserts on the waterfront

Kona Kai Athens Ledra Marriott, Syngrou Ave. 115, Tel: 210 930 0000 Polynesian, Teppanyaki and Sushi cuisine in an original luxury setting

Café Zoe

Tony Bonano Papanastasiou 63, Tel: 210.411.1901 Italian cuisine with a view of the harbour

Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93 Casual dining and terrific buffets for lunch and on Sundays Tel: 210 920 6655

Vassilenas

Première

Ak. Koumoundourou 48 Tel: 210.417.5152 Fresh seafood on the quay

EAT

Zorbas Ak. Koumoundourou 14 Tel: 210.411.1163 Unique flavours of the Mediterranean

Indian Masala (Indian) Ermou 129, Tel: 210 321 9412 Amazing Indian food at affordable price in a pleasant environment

Kirki Apostoplou Pavlou 31 Tel: 210.346.6960 Ideal for a lunch break

Kuzina Adrianou 9, Tel: 210.324.0133 Inspired traditional recipes in a cozy arty environment

SOUTHERN ATHENS

Piraeus

Zefyros

EAT Captain John's Ak. Koumoundourou 16A, Tel: 210.417.7589 Traditional seafood

Dourambeis Ak. Protopsalti 29, Tel: 210.412.2092 Classic fish taverna

Jimmy and The Fish

Ak. Mikrolimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084.

Excellent seafood; try the astakomakaronada

Kollias Plastira 3, Tel: 210.462.9620 Excellent seafood but difficult to find; reserve on weekends

DRINK

FOOD & WINE

Big Apple South

All about Whisky

Posidonos 1, Tel: 210.948.5190 Casual cocktails in a modern atmosphere

Zinc “Flisvos” Marina, Tel: 210.985.3183 Cocktails whith music

Zythos Eleftherias 45, Tel: 210.985.0478 Reminiscent of an Irish pub with several beers to choose from

Ak. Dilaveri 15, Tel: 210.407.8861 Playing disco & techno tracks until 6am

Vas. Georgiou B' 10 Tel: 210.968.1191, Specialty shop with a large selection of single malts, books, & anything to do with whisky

Provence Posidonos 80, Tel: 210.898.1435 Gourmet French delicatessen

EAT Ache

SHOP

Kypriou 57, Tel: 210.894.2949 International cuisine & delectable deserts

BOOKS

Aioli Restaurant

Eleftheroudakis Lazaraki 27, Tel: 210.325.8440 Book superstore with a large selection of English titles

FASHION Enny di Monaco

Iguana

Artemidos 9, Tel: 210.894.0181 Mediterranean cuisine with an excellent “secret” seafood sauce

Amigos

Kyprou 65A, Tel: 210.898.3167 Mexican flavours in a friendly setting

Bayern Bierhaus Microbrewery Chr. Nezer 19, Tel: 210.894.4439 Authentic German cuisine

Laodikis 41, Tel: 210.894.0153 Carefully selected designs by various international designers

Beer Academy

Ensayar Donna

Beirut

N. Zerva 14, Tel: 210.898.0121 International cuisine in a cozy setting

Istioploikos Ak. Microlimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084 One of the hip places to see and be seen with a rooftop bar overlooking the yachting marina

Katafigio Ak. Koumoundourou 4 Tel: 210.413.1612 Club, cafe & beer house

Faliro

Thissio

Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel : 210 920 6981 Gourmet cuisine with splendid views

Etolikou 72 & Vitolion Tel: 210.461.2457 Friendly food and atmosphere

DRINK

Glyfada

AiNikolas

Southern & Northern Athens

EAT Il Tinello Knossou 54, Tel: 210.982.8462 Real Italian home cooking

Iskandar

Amphitheas 6 & Poseidonos Tel: 210.988.6474 Authentic Indian cuisine

Kitchen Bar

Kyprou 55, Esperidon Square Tel: 210.894.3034 Top lines from leading designers with an English touch

Obervatory Attitudes A. Panagouli 17, Tel: 210.894.2113 The ultimate fashion store www.attitudes.gr

Poseidonos 3, Tel: 210.981.2004 Comfort food overlooking the sea

JEWELLERY

Le Petit Sommelier

ZerTeo

Zaimi 6, Tel: 210.984.2344 French cuisine & excellent wine list

Metaxa 24-26, Tel: 210.894.6682 Unique jewellery designs

Saki Karayiorya 13, Tel: 210.894.3169 Lebanese cuisine & entertainment

Bereket Mikras Asias & Lefkosias 36 Tel: 210.960.9337 Traditional dishes from Asia Minor

Far East Lazaraki 61, Tel: 210.894.0500 A mix of Asian cuisines in elegant surroundings

insider athens | February 2012 59

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Kiliza

Vincenzo

Konstantinopoleos 13 Tel: 210.894.4648 Delicious kebabs & decadent deserts

Giannitsopoulou 1, Tel: 210.894.1310 Value for money Italian specialities with a Southern Italian touch

Southern & Northern Athens

La Casa Di Giorgino Lefkosias 42A, Tel: 210.963.85770 Authentic Italian pizza made in a traditional wood-burning oven

DRINK

La pêche

Babae

Meat Square (Grill) Lambrakis 63 & Ag. Nikolaou, Tel: 210 961 1160 Juicy steaks in pleasant family environment

Molly Malone's Zannitsopoulou 8, Tel: 210.894.4247 Irish pub serving probably the best Irish Stew in Athens

Tartare Panagouli 52, Tel: 210.968.0320 Quality French cuisine

Posidonos 88, Tel: 210.894.1629 Beachfront dancing all night long

Balux Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.3577 Waterfront lounging

Capri Bay Grigoriou Lambraki 2 Tel: 210.894.9995, Excellent cocktails in a Moroccan style garden

CAFES Chocolat Zisimopoulou 9, Tel: 210.894.3442 Satisfies even the most discerning coffee connoisseur

Cosi

Il Segreto

Zisimopoulou 12, Tel: 210.894.5746 One of the first cafes to inspireGlyfada's coffee culture

Bizaniou 3, Tel: 210.965.9526 Authentic Italian set on a beautiful terrace

Nest Café Bar

CHILL

Lazaraki 45, Tel: 210.898.6035 An all-day hangout for locals & visitors

Seiza Lazaraki 45, Tel: 210.968.0545 Cafe with a unique style & hip design

STREET Bar Restaurant is the new all-day meeting point in Neo Psychico. Specialities served include authentic juicy burgers, big healthy salads, perfectly- grilled meat, and last but not least, truly tempting desserts. (Tel. 2106710688) Funky Gourmet: In the warm and living restaurant environment, the chefs offer their guests a carefully designed menu of a modern creative cuisine based on advanced culinary techniques and always featuring top quality seasonal ingredients. (Tel. 2105242727) Salon de Bricolage: The members-only club aims at the promotion of art, gastronomy, winery, and entertainment, as well as wellbeing and conjectural arts.

Visit the Acropolis museum with a private tour guide and enjoy lunch at Dionysos a landmark venue, globally well known as the restaurant under Acropolis. The unique view adds an exceptional value to Dionysos, combined to high quality service and cuisine. (Tel. 2109233182)

60 insider athens | February 2012

Posidonos 58A, Tel: 210.898.3577 A beach house turned lounge with all the amenities of a home.

LIVE MUSIC Thalassa People's Stage Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.2979 Live Greek acts in a club atmosphere attracting a young crowd

Voula

To do Chill

Eat

The House Project

EAT Dream Grill V. Pavlou 78, Tel: 210.895.5110 Traditional recipes & authentic taste

Dvlcis in Fvndo Prinkipos Petrou 33, Tel: 210.894.2136 Top-quality authentic

Vari Sports Club Vari-Koropiou & Kalamatos 1 Tel: 210.899.0048 www.varisportsclub.com

Vouliagmeni

Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.894.1620 Creative seafood dishes combining Greek & French techniques

BARS, CLUBS & LOUNGES

EAT Café Tabac

Margi Hotel, Litous 11, Tel: 210.967.0924 Delicious variations of Mediterranean food

Da Luciano

Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.2217 Trattoria serving traditional Italian dishes & pizza

Al Fresco The Westin, 40, Tel: 210.890.1709, Enjoy a romantic meal of creative Italian cuisine

Grill Room

Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.890.1794, Mediterranean & seafood flavours on a breathtaking veranda, in the Astir complex

Italian

Ithaki

Genovese

Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.896.3747 Beautiful sea view, fresh seafood & great service

Vas. Pavlou 99, Tel: 210.895.8400 Italian eats al fresco

Naiades Vas. Pavlou 74, Tel: 210.965.7706 Popular family grill joint

Louizidis Ermou 2, Tel: 210.896.0591 Traditional Greek taverna popular with the locals

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Matsuhisa Athens Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.896.0510, Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa serves up sushi favourites with a Latin-American flair

Mezza Luna Orpheos 2, Tel: 210.967.1046 Chic Italian restaurant

Mythos of the Sea Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou Tel: 210.891.1100 Gourmet Mediterranean cuisine that blends local produce with fresh seafood

Oro Toro Varis-Koropiou 73, Tel: 210.899.4514 A taste of Argentinian cuisine in a cosy atmosphere

Psaraki Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Seafood served in an informal setting

Schara Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Grills with frills in a friendly setting at reasonable prices

Waffle House Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.1227 Sure to satisfy your sweet tooth

DRINK En Plo

NORTHERN ATHENS EAT Da Vinci Ag. Ioannou 23, Tel: 210 600 0102 Delightful dishes in fantastic ambience

Nanninela Peloponnissou 13 Tel: 210 600 5622 Authentic Italian cuisine in traditional decor

Olio by Portofino Ag. Ioannou 63, Tel: 210 639 1666, Mediterranean flavours in a chic interior

EAT Apsendi Kifissias 250-254 & Serres Tel: 210 671 7890 Refined cuisine and cocktails in stylish urban atmosphere

Bo Botrini’s Vasileos Georgiou B 24b, Halandri, Tel: 210 6857323

L’Enoteca

Posidonos 4, Tel: 210.967.1770 Cocktails overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay

Pendelis 133, Tel: 210 689 0238 Choice of 600 wines to accompany memorable meals

Island 27th klm Athinon-Souniou Tel: 210.965.3809 Award-winning cuisine & an unmatched location with views of the Saronic Gulf

Sofa Bar The Westin Hotel Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.890.1709 Modern lounge bar serving up delectable cocktails

CHILL Arion Spa Astir Complex, Apollonos 40 Tel: 210.890.2000

Divani Apollon Palace & Spa Ag. Nikolaou 10, Tel: 210.891.1100

Meat Square Ethnikis Antistaseos 9-11, Tel: 210 683 1300, Juicy steaks in pleasant family environment

Novo Romantico di Antonio 25th Martiou 21, Tel: 210 689 6891 Authentic Italian cuisine with a modern twist

Saipan K. Varnali 9, Tel: 210 685 0644 Exquisite dishes from China, Japan and Indonesia

1920 Ag. Paraskevi 110, Tel: 210 681 3029 Accent on meat in an elegant setting

Psaroma Sokratous 23, Tel: 210 683 9348 Imaginative parade of seafood and fresh fish

Kifissia

Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.967.1184 Traditionally prepared seafood dishes presented exquisitely

Halandri Ag.Paraskevi

Maistrali

Southern & Northern Athens

SHOP BEAUTY & COSMETICS

Bakaliko Ola Ta Kala Kifissias 238-240, Mela Shopping Centre, Tel: 210.808.9908 Quality Greek delicacies

Il Salumaio di Montena Poleone Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Milan based company selling high quality produce

Sorpresa Italiana Kiriazi 6-8, Tel: 210.801.7886, Authentic fresh Italian pasta, sauces, truffles & more

Stefanidis Finest Foods Dimitrios Square 13, Tel: 210.808.2191 Excellent European delicatessen

Varsos Kassaveti 5, Tel: 210.801.2472 Milk products & patisserie

Vinifera Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.807.7709 Selection of wines from

Nyhi-Nyhi Kifissias 230 Tel: 210.623.2824 Stop by for a quick mani-pedi

EAT Acqua Azzurra

FASHION

Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Specially-prepared Italian meals

21 Kifissia

Apla

Kifissias 265, Tel: 210.801.3594 Extreme sport paraphernelia

Vassilis Zoulias

135 Charilaou Trikoupi Tel: 210.620.3102 Chrysanthos Karamolegos creates refined Mediterranean dishes

Argyropoulou 1-3, Tel: 210.801.7023 Unique designs reminiscent of times past

Barceloneta

Almyra

FOOD & WINE

Berdema

Filikis Eterias 39, Tel: 210 6819109 Refined seafood and magical summer garden

Aristokratikon

Vas Amalias 20, Tel: 210.801.3853 Traditional dishes from Greece & Asia Minor

Argyropoulou 8, Tel: 210.801.6533 Decadent handmade chocolates

Kifissias 267, Tel: 210.801.3448 Spanish cuisine in a fun atmosphere

Dali Kifissias 336, Tel: 210 685 4004 Multi-ethnic cuisine with original suggestions in arty set-up

Santa Fe Ag. Georgiou 30’B, Tel: 210 685 9690 Mexican food in traditional setting

Golden Phoenix Leof. Pendelis 85, Tel: 210 682 5017 Asian cuisine and sushi bar in luxury environment

Kitchen Bar K. Varnali 6,, Tel: 210 689 2015 Delightful gastronomic tour in a relaxing atmosphere

Matsuhisa

insider athens | February 2012 61

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Northern Athens

Common Secret

Nargile

Tike

Aneton

Kifissias 324, Tel: 210.623.3810 Coffee and light Mediterranean meals in a pleasant setting

Harilaou Trikoupi 50 Tel: 210.808.3333 Lebanese cuisine in a cosmopolitan ambiance

Stratigou Lekka 19, Tel: 210.806.6700 Traditional cuisine in a comfy-chic setting reminiscent of the 50s & 60s

Dos Hermanos

O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas

Harilaou Trikoupi 27, Tel: 210.808.4418 Watch chefs prepare Turkish kebabs and other treats before your eyes

Kyriazi 24, Tel: 210.808.7906 Excellent Mexican food & super margaritas

Drosini 12-14, Tel: 210.623.0080 A modern taverna serving traditional dishes at reasonable prices

Vardis

Ethnikis Antistaseos & Psaron 1 Tel: 210.684.0460 Mexican flavours in a traditional setting

Dragoumi & Andrianou 28 Tel: 210 623 3900, Gourmet cuisine with Mediterranean influences by chef Christos Markopoulos in a cool urban setting

Piazza Mela

Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.800.1402 Divine food from all over the world

Kolokotroni 37, Tel: 210.808.9160 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

Golden Phoenix

Royal Thai

Harilaou Trikoupi & Gortinias Tel: 210.801.3588, Chinese classic popular for the brunch buffet

Zirini 12, Tel: 210.623.2322 Thai cuisine in an opulent setting

Gourounakia Kifissias

Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Authentic Italian food & fabulous deserts

Kifissias 289, Tel: 210.801.1093 Delicious salads, appetizers, souvlakia & grilled platters

Ichthyes Evagelistrias 36, Tel: 210.620.1572 Seafood taverna

Kastelorizo Platanon 2, Tel: 210.807.5408 Part of a chain of upscale seafood restaurants that is sure to please

Meat Me HarilaouTrikoupi 92 Tel: 210.623.2358 Simple yet discerning cuisine in a funky Greek taverna

Mauzac

62 insider athens | February 2012

Kifissias 238, Mela Shopping Centre Tel: 210.623.6596, Classic & traditional Italian dishes

Prytaneion

Salumaio di Atene

Semiramis Restaurant Semiramis Hotel, Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Tel: 210.628.4500 Mediterranean cuisine in a hip atmosphere

Shogun Philadelpheos 2, Tel: 210.623.3622 Promises authentic Japanese cuisine for the truly discerning

El Taco Bueno

Jaipur Palace

DRINK Boudoir Deligianni 50 & Georganta Tel: 210.801.8384, Massive club for dancing & sipping on signature cocktails

Ag. Konstantinou & Themidos Tel: 210.805.2762 Indian cuisine and fine wines

Mauzac

Kifissias 239, Tel: 201.801.0810 Chic lounge serving classic concoctions

Alamanas 1, Tel: 210.619.9902 Clean lines and a beautiful garden make this cafĂŠ, bar, restaurant a must

Menta CafĂŠ

Oinopathia

Divine

Ag. Theodorou 10, Tel: 210.808.0193 Traditional home turned stylish cafe

Maroussi

Essence

Deligianni 66, Pentelikon Hotel Tel: 210.623.0650-6, Cornerstone of French cuisine in Greece

Telemachos Barbeque Club

EAT

Fragkopoulou 22, Tel: 210.807.6680 Rare meats char-grilled to perfection

Altamira

SHOP

Aghias Paraskevis 79 & Diogenous Tel: 210.685.5375, Great selection of wines with Greek and international cuisine

Golden Hall

Pausa

Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 131 high-end (and highstreet) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion

The Mall Athens Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food

Perikleous 28, Tel: 210 612 8841 Multiethnic cuisine in funky environment

Ag. Konstantinou 46 & Ifestou 3 Tel: 210.617.9290 Italian cuisine accompanied by a selection of Greek & Italian wines

Wagamama Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.683.6844 Fresh, nutritious Asian fusion food in a sleek yet simple setting

Whispers of wine Ag. Konstantinou 48, Tel: 210.617.9051 Gourmet food with rich wine list and vintage decor

see & do Art galleries

A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psirri Tel: 210.321.4994 Artzone 42 42 Vas. Konstantinou, Agalma Troyman, 11635 Athens, Tel: 210 725 9549 Astrolavos Dexameni Xanthippou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4342 Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200 Athens Art Gallery Glykonos 4, Dexameni Sq., 106 75 Athens, Tel: 210 721 3938 Badminton Theatre Olympiaka Akinita, Goudi 157 73, Athens, Tel: 211 101 0020 Bernier/Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thisseio, Tel: 210.341.3935 Beyond Art Gallery Haritos 10, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.9744 B&M Theoharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens Tel: 210.361.1206 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxourgio, Tel: 210.331.7527 Ekfrasi Gallery Valaoritou 9a, 10671 Athens, Greece Tel: 210 360 7598 EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Vas. Georgiou B 17 - 19 & Rigilis Str. Athens 10675, Tel: 210 9242 111-3 Fizz Gallery Valaoritou 9c, Athens 10671 Greece, Tel: 210 360 7598 Gagosian Gallery Merlin 3, Athens 10671, Tel: 210 364 0215 Gallery 7 Zalokosta 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.361.2050 Gialino Music Theatre Sigrou 143, N. Smirni, Athens Tel: 210 9316 101-4 Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio, Tel: 210.346.1981 Ileana Tounta Contemporary Art Centre 48 Armatolon-Klephton st.

11471 Athens, Tel: 210 643 9466 Jill Yakas Spartis 16, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.2773 www.yakas.com K-Art Gallery Sina 54, 106 72, Athens, Greece Tel: 211 401 3877 Kalfayan Gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.7679 Kourd Gallery Kassiani 2-4, Tel: 210.642.6573 ww.gallerykourd.gr

Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 201.321.0219 Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries.

Athinais Cultural Centre formerly a silk factory, this space has been converted into a large cultural centre. Kastorias 34-36, Votanikos. Tel: 210.348.0000.

Byzantine Churches many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox church) on Filellinon Street. Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm. Dress soberly when visiting.

Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works.

Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi. Tel: 210.346.1589.

Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that marked the boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues.

Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos.

Tel: 210.321.0185.

Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens.

Tel: 210.923.1502 www.spyrosvassiliou.org Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka, Tel: 210.368.9502 www.history-museum.uoa.gr Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue Tel: 210.367.1000, www.benaki.gr Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos. Tel: 210.325.1311 www.benaki.gr

Benaki Museum, Pireos Pireos 138 & Andronikou Tel: 210.345.3111, www.benaki.gr Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Tel: 210.721.1027.

Hellenic Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros. Tel: 212.254.0000. www.hellenic-cosmos.gr Frissiras Vlassis Museum of Contemporary European Art Monis Asteriou 3-7, Plaka, Tel: 210.323.4678 www.frissirasmuseum.com Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4, Tel: 210.722.8321 www.cycladic.gr Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio.

Tel: 210-346.1981. www.herakleidon-art.gr Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni.

Tel: 210.922.7260. www.lalaounis.com Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka. Tel: 210.322.5582. www.jewishmuseum.gr Keramikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.346.3552.

Maria Callas Museum Technopolis, Pireos 100, Gazi, Tel: 210.346.1589 National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 National Gallery and Alexandros Soutsos Museum Vas. Konstantinou 50.

Tel: 210.723.5857, 210.723.5937 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens.

Tel: 210.363.5953. www.nma.gr The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street Tel: 210.924.1043, www.theacropolismuseum.gr

Just for kids

Tel: 210.322.9705

Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) live concerts, operas and other performances. Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali.

Tel: 210.728.2333 Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for €1.50 and open daily from 8:30am.

Panathenian Stadium “Kalimarmaro”was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden.

Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the “birthplace of democracy”.

Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory.

Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries.

Irodou Attikou Street.

Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am3pm. Admission to the Agora and museum €3.50. Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma (Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changingof-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour.

Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian's Arch. Mon-Sun 8am-7:30pm. €2.00. Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues, Tel: 210.922.6330.

Theatre of Dionysus built in the 5th century BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed.

Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight directions of the wind, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus. Mon-Sun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora.

Tel: 210.324.5220.

Museums

ASSOCIATION OF GUIDES

Pallas Theatre Skoufa 77 & Staikou 2, Kolonaki Athens, Tel: 210 364 0783 Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 Thanassis Frisssiras Gallery Kriezotou 7, Tel: 210. 364.0288 The Art Foundation (TAF) Normanou 5, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.323.8757 The Eynard Mansion Aghiou Konstantinou 20 & Menandrou, Athens 104 31, Tel: 210 322 1335 The National Art Gallery and Alexander Soutzos Museum Michalakopoulou 1 - Vas. Constantinou 1, 115 28 Athens, Tel: 210-7235857 Titanium Yiayiannos Vas. Konstantinou 44, Pangrati, Tel: 210.729.7644 Tsatsis Project/ Artforum 12 Mitropoleos st. & Venizelou PC 54624 Thessaloniki, Tel: 231 025 7552 Xippas Gallery Sofokleous 53D, 105 52 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210 331 9333 Zoumboulakis Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278 Zoumboulakis Gallery Graphics & Editions Kriezotou 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.363.4454

Attractions & Sites

ORGANISED TOURS

Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli, Ag. Ioannis Rentis, Tel: 210.425.6999, www.allou.gr Children’s Museum Kydathinaeon 14, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2995.

Goulandris Museum of Natural History Levidou 13, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.801.5870, www.gnhm.gr Greek Folk Art Museum Daily Karaghiozis puppet shows!

Kydathinaeon 17, Plaka, Tel: 210.322.9031 Museum of Children’s Art Kodrou 9, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.22621 www.childrensartmuseum.gr

Summit The Wall Sport Climbing Center Ag. Athanasiou 12, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.0093, www.summit.gr Westin Kids Club Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.890.2000 http://www.westinathens.com/en/westin_kids_club/

insider athens | February 2012 63

partner hotels ARION RESORT & SPA

ATHENS LEDRA MARRIOTT HOTEL

DIVANI PALACE ACROPOLIS

METROPOLITAN

The legendary beauty resort is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. Breathtaking views of the Saronic Gulf, elegant and sophisticated décor in all 123 rooms and suites, private swimming pools and beaches, spa and gourmet restaurants.

Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.890.2000

314 deluxe guest rooms, 18 suites. Rooftop swimming pool and bar, health club, Kona Kai Polynesian - Tepanyiaki Restaurant and sports bar. Syngrou 115. Tel: 210.930.0000

Located at the base of the Acropolis and close to Plaka. Pool with bar, roof garden restaurant with Acropolis view. Parthenonos 19-25.

Makrigianni. Tel: 210.928.0100

Beautifully renovated property with views of the sea and the Acropolis. Ten minutes from central Athens, the port of Piraeus and main exhibition centers. Syngrou 385. Tel: 210.947.1000

NEW

GRANDE BRETAGNE

NJV ATHENS PLAZA

This city landmark is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. All 265 rooms and 56 suites are decorated with original artwork and antiques.

Reception areas, ballrooms, roof garden with Acropolis view. Luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools. Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.333.0000

Boutique-style hotel with 182 rooms including 23 suites with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, ideally located in the heart of the business and shopping district within walking distance of Plaka. 2, Vas.Georgiou A’ St, Athens Tel: 210 3352400

HOLIDAY INN ATTICA AVENUE

NOVOTEL

New five-star property on Attica Avenue linking Athens with the international airport.

State-of-the art conference facilities, restaurant, two bars, pool and fitness center. 40.2 km Attica Road, between exits 17 & 18. Tel: 210.668.9000, www.hiathens.com

The newly renovated Novotel is designed for natural living. Close to Omonoia square and the National Museum. Open plan bar and rooftop bar and restaurant and pool.4-6 Mikhail Voda Street Tel: 210.820.0700, www..novotel.com

ATHENAEUM INTERCONTINENTAL ATHENS

543 rooms with renovated Deluxe rooms and suites. Dedicated business centre facilities and 3.500 m2 of extensive & flexible meeting space.

New I-Spa and renovated gym. Award winning restaurants. Syngrou 89-93. Tel: 210.920.6000

Designed by the Campana brothers, NEW, the latest venture of YES! Hotels has 79 luxury rooms, including 18 Studios and 6 Junior Suites. NEW Taste, is the Hotel’s innovative restaurant concept. Filellinon 16, Syntagma.

Tel: 210.3273000 CROWNE PLAZA

ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE HOTEL

66 state-of the-art rooms, 15 executive rooms and 3 suites. The acclaimed Etrusco Restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean cuisine.

Kallirois 32 & Petmeza. Tel: 210.921.5353 ATHENS ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL

Located in historic Plaka beneath the Acropolis.

Facilities include bar, restaurant, spa area with indoor swimming pool, business centre, garden and underground parking. N. Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka. Tel: 210.337.0000 ATHENS HILTON

Newly renovated, the former Holiday Inn Athens is at a very convenient location and attracts both business and leisure travellers.

Amenities include restaurant, bar, rooftop swimming pool, conference and business facilities, garage parking. Michalakopoulou 50.

Tel: 210.727.8000, www.cpathens.com DIVANI APOLLON PALACE & SPA

Located seaside with a magnificent view of the Saronic Gulf. All rooms with balconies and sea views. Indoor and outdoor pools, boutiques, beauty parlor, business centre and spa.

Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Kavouri-Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.891.1100

HOLIDAY SUITES

Elegant, all-suite hotel offering high standard accommodation. Each suite provides guests with a separate living room and kitchenette. Arnis 4.Tel: 210.727.8000, www.holiday-suites.com

Near the Acropolis Museum. 265 rooms and 45 unique Panorama Suites, overlooking the Temple of Zeus and the Acropolis. Pool, business center, convention and banquet facilities.

Roof Garden Restaurant/Bar “Ioannis”. 28-34, Ath. Diakou Str., 11743 Athens, Greece. Tel. 210 9288400, www.royalolympic.com

KEFALARI SUITES

SEMIRAMIS

Turn-of-the-century hotel in Kifissia, part of YES! Hotels.Themed suites with modern facilities. Pentelis 1, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3333

YES! Hotel designed by Karim Rashid. 51 luxury rooms, 4 suites and 6 poolside bungalows.

Ultra-trendy bar-restaurant. Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari-Kifissia. Tel: 210.628.4400

DIVANI CARAVEL

508 renovated rooms, two pools, banquet rooms restaurants, convention facilities, business centre & spa. The rooftop Galaxy bar has gorgeous city views. Vas. Sofias 46. Tel: 210.728.1000

64 insider athens | February 2012

situated close to major tourist attractions with, rooftop restaurant and swimming pool.

Vas. Alexandrou 2, Tel: 210.720.7000

ROYAL OLYMPIC

partner hotels SOFITEL ATHENS AIRPORT

TWENTYONE

HERODION

COSTA NAVARINO THE WESTIN RESORT COSTA NAVARINO

Airport hotel. Executive floor, business center and conference facilities. Two bars and two restaurants. Health club and covered swimming pool. Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. Tel: 210.354.4000 ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS HOTEL

A member of YES! Hotels. Modern design and simple architectural charm. 16 ergonomically designed rooms and 5 loft suites. “21” Bar Restaurant for indoor and outdoor dining.

Kolokotroni 21, Kefalari-Kifissia Tel: 210.623.3521. www.twentyone.gr

A CATEGORY

Located at the base of the Acropolis and a five minute walk to Plaka. 90 guest rooms, meeting facilities and a lovely atrium barcoffee shop. Rovertou Galli 4, Makrigianni.

Tel: 210.923.6832 HOTEL ELECTRA

AVA HOTEL & SUITES

Located in the upper part of Kolonaki, not far from the Lycabettus (Lykavittos) funicular railway. Excellent restaurant, Le Grand Balcon. Rooftop swimming pool. Kleomenous 2, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.729.0711 THEOXENIA PALACE HOTEL

Luxurious apartments and suites in Plaka.

Magnificent views of the Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch and Zeus Temple. Short walk to Syntagma and Monastiraki. Lysikratous street 9-11, Plaka.

Tel: 210.325.9000, www.avahotel.gr

Within walking distance from all major archaeological sites, business and commercial districts. Includes bar, restaurant, lobby and meeting areas. Ermou 5, Syntagma. Tel: 210.337.8000

Inspired by old Messinian mansions, the Westin resort’s low-rise villa clusters use natural stone and local design elements to create a motif in perfect harmony with the virgin sandy beach and pristine hillside landscape. Its 445 deluxe rooms and suites, 123 with private infinity pools, offer access to an extensive common pool areas, and reflect Westin’s soothing aesthetic THE ROMANOS, A LUXURY COLLECTION RESORT

PERISCOPE HOTEL

CORAL HOTEL

In an elegant neoclassical building in Kefalari, this hotel has a restaurant, bar, gym, sauna and outdoor pool. Business centre, internet and conference facilities. Filadelfeos 2, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3622-6 THE MARGI

The Coral’s 86 rooms and 2 suites offer all modern conveniences. Poseidonos Avenue 35, Paleo Faliron. Tel: 210.981.6441 FRESH HOTEL

Boutique hotel with 90 spacious rooms and suites and great views to the sea and pine forests.

Café Tabac Restaurant offers a unique dining experience while Malabar and J-lounge are perfect for a glass of champagne. Close to the lake, beach and tennis courts. Litous 11, Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.892.9000. www.themargi.gr THE WESTIN ATHENS

Designed for people who wish to be part of all that goes on in the city. 17 rooms, 4 junior suites and a super-lux penthouse suite.

Part of YES! Hotels. Haritos 22, Kolonaki.

Tel: 210.729.7200, www.periscope.gr

Recently refurbished, all 50 rooms are wellappointed and comfortable. Offers good value for money in the Acropolis area. Mitseon 3, Makrigianni. Tel: 210.922.3611-4

WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE YOUR Part of the Astir Palace Complex with 162 guest rooms and suites and views of the Saronic Gulf. Sea view lounges, trendy bars, fusion and Mediterranean cuisine restaurants and private gazebos by an Olympic-sized pool. Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.890.2000

HOTEL LISTED HERE? CONTACT US AT: info@insider-magazine.gr

SANTORINI MYSTIQUE SANTORINI

PHILIPPOS

Situated in the heart of old Athens within walking distance of the Plaka, Psirri and Monastiraki.

Enjoy the hip Orange Bar, rooftop restaurant and pool. Sophocleous 26 & Klisthenous.

Tel: 210.524.8511-6.

The Romanos Resort boasts of 289 exquisitely appointed rooms and 32 suites with individual infinity pools. Traditional Greek design with contemporary touches sets the tone in each space, where the sparkling blue of the Mediterranean is the preferred hue.

Mystique is an 18 villa hotel, designed by Frank Le Fevbre. Mystique, Oia. Tel. 22860 71114 VEDEMA, SANTORINI

@ Vedema has 45 rooms converted from a 100 year old neo-classical captain’s house and a private swiming pool for all the suites. Vedema, Megalohori. Tel. 22860 81 796

insider athens | February 2012 65

AUDIOVISUAL OTE video conference service 7.30am-10pm.

Patission 85. Tel: 210.883.8578, 210.822.0399 TCS M. Antipa 20 & 2 Prometheus, Tel: 210.976.7086

COMPUTER & CELL-PHONE RENTAL TrimTel Mobile Communications Michalakopoulou 41, Tel: 210.729.1964

COMMERCIAL OFFICE SPACES Regus Tel: 210 727 9000 Global Business Services Tel: 210-8764 876 Kifissias Ave. 90, Maroussi

COURIER SERVICES ACS Tel: 210.819.0000 DHL Tel: 210.989.0000 Express City Tel: 210.821.9959 Geniki Taxydromiki Tel: 210.485.1100 Interattika Tel: 210.540.5400 Speedex Tel: 801.11.000.11 UPS Tel: 210.998.4000

DRIVING SCHOOLS IN ENGLISH Denis Kasimatis - Driving School Zografou, Papagou, Ilissia, Psychiko, Cholargos and Goudi - Tel: 210 778 3157 210 779 6981 Trochokinisi Driving School 28th Oktovriou 126, Ambelokipi, Athens Tel: 231 072 9092 Driving School Highway Amfitheas and Ag. Triados 30, 175 64 Paleo Faliro - Tel: 210 988 8098 / 6997 722 777 Vlachos Bros 25th Martiou 11, Peristeri; Xenofodos 17, Peristeri; Afroditis 39, Ilion Tel: 210 574 4895 / 210 576 9190

RELOCATION AGENCIES Allied Pickfords Tel: 210 610 4494 Mourouzi 7, Athens Athens Relocation Centre Tel: 210 96 50 697, Zakynthou 10, Attica Movers Tel: 210 922 7221 19, Syngrou Ave Celebrity International Movers 102, Kapodistriou Ave, Tel: 210 272 0106 Corporate Relocations Athens Tel: 210 800 3510, Ag. Saranta 32 Nea Erithrea Orphee Beinoglou Tel: 210 9466100 27th km Old National Road Athens-Korinth Location Elefsinia, GR-19200 Elefsina Omega Transport Thesi Kyrilos, 19300 Aspropyrgos Tel: 210 947 5500 Octopus Relocation Services Ygeias 7, Marina Zeas, Tel: 210 4599530

CLASSIFIEDS FOR SALE 73m2 apartment near Acropolis Museum with on-site parking space, on 3rd floor, bright, facing street, built in 2007. It comprises one large open-plan living area, separate fitted kitchen, WC, storage room, and 13m2 covered veranda. Equipped with parquet wood floor, independent natural gas heating, Guzzini lighting system, Daikin a/c units, Buchtal ceramic tiles, double glazing, security door. It is located only 220m from metro station, 80m from tram & bus stops.

Contact tel. 697 6558 536.

FOR RENT in Glyfada Top floor apartment, 3 bedrooms, fully furnished.

Sunny and airy, central heat and A/C units all rooms. Convenient location, very comfortable.

For more info CALL 2291024129.

FOR RENT/ SALE in Hydra Fully furnished, recently renovated, three bedroom, three bathroom villa with living room, open kitchen, courtyard, and terraces with breathtaking views of the island and the Peloponnese.

For more information, contact info@insider-magazine.gr

66 insider athens | February 2012

TRANSLATIONS / INTERPRETING Executive services, translation & interpreting All EU and Balkan languages - legal, technical and medical documents. Athens Tower B. Tel:Â 210.778.3698 www.executiveservices.gr Global Business Services Kifisias 90, Maroussi. Tel: 210.876.4876 IBS - International Business Services Michalakopoulou 29, Tel: 210.724.5541

TRAVEL AGENCIES Travel Plan Tel: 210 333 3300 www.travelplan.gr Amphitrion Tel: 210 900 6000 Meg Alexandrou 7 & Karaiskaki, www.amphitrionholidays.gr TravelPlanet24 Tel: 211 107 9684 241, Syngrou Ave. & 2, Alikarnassou 171 22 Nea Smyrni, Athens www.travelplanet24.com Mid-east Travel Tel: 211 211 8888 Vas Sofias 105-107 / www.mideast.gr

Embassies Cultural Institutes

Business services

useful information

French Institute Sina 31, 10680 Athens Tel: 210 339 8600 Hellenic American Union Massalias 22, 10680 Athens, Tel: 210 368 0900 British Council 17 Kolonaki Square 17 106 73 Athens Tel: 210 369 2333 Instituto Cervantes Mitropoleos 23, 105 57 Athens Tel: 210 3634117 Goethe Institut Omirou 14-16, 100 33 Athens Tel: 210 3661000 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou Ave. 107-109, 117 45 Athens, Tel: 213 017 8000 Instituto Italiano di Cultura Patission [28 Oktovriou] 47 Tel: 210 369 2333, 210 524 2646

ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Tel: 210.687.6200 ALGERIA Vas. Constantinou 14 Tel: 210.756.4191-2 ARGENTINA Vas. Sophias 59. Tel: 210.724.4158 ARMENIA K. Palaiologou 95, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145 AUSTRALIA Kifisias & Alexandras, Tel: 210.870.4000 AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Avenue 4, Tel: 210.725.7270 AZERBAIJAN Skoufa 10.

Tel: 210.363.2721 BELGIUM Sekeri 3, Tel: 210.360.0314

BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Hatzikosta 3. Tel: 210.641.0788 BRAZIL Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14.

Tel: 210.721.3039 BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.8105 CANADA Ioanni Gennadiou 4.

Tel: 210.727.3400 CHILE Kifisias 317A Tel: 210.807.1020 CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.677.1212 CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.677.7033 CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei.

Tel: 210.685.5550 CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A. Tel: 210.373.4800 CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.671.9701 DENMARK Mourouzi 10.

Tel: 210.725.6440 EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3. Tel: 210.361.8612 ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4.

Tel: 210.747.5660 FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5.

Tel: 210.725.5860 FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7. Tel: 210.339.1000 FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.9585 GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2186 GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3.

Tel: 210.728.5111 HUNGARY Karneadou 25.

Tel: 210.725.6800 INDIA Kleanthous 3. Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2345 IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16.

Tel: 210.674.1436 IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7.

Tel: 210.723.2405 ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.670.5500 ITALY Sekeri 2. Tel: 210.361.7260 JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri.

Tel: 210.670.9900 JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.4161 KAZAKHSTAN Imittou 122, Papagou Tel: 210.654.7765 KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens.

Tel: 210.698.4080 KUWAIT Perikleous 2, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.3593 LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.675.5873 LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.2120 LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49.

Tel: 210.729.4356 LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38.

Tel. 210.729.4483 LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofitou Vamva 2.Tel: 210.725.6400 MALTA V. Sofias 96.Tel: 210.778.5138

useful information

Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016.

They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer.

Duty Pharmacies Call 1434, Also check newspapers for listings.

Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434 Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777 Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coastguard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000

ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 168 Tourist Information Tel: 174

PAEDIATRIC HOSPITALS

EUROCLINIC PAEDON Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900 PAEDON AGIA SOFIA HOSPITAL Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.746.7000 PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535

PRIVATE HOSPITALS ADVANCED MEDICAL SERVICES, SYMMETRIA BUILDING Ethnikis Antistaseos 66, Halandri.

Tel: 210.677.3573 www.symmetria.gr CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS Asklipiou St. 31. Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000 www.centralclinic.gr

PUBLIC HOSPITALS ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL Vas. Pavlou 1, Voula. Tel: 210.895.8301-4 EVANGELISMOS Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.720.1000 KAT HOSPITAL specialized trauma unit. Nikis 2, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.628.0000 TZANNEIO Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus.

Tel: 210.451.9411-9

PHYSICIANS (ENGLISH SPEAKING) Ioannis Bitzos, MD Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery, Harilaou Trikoupi 62 Kifissia. Tel: 210.808.0682 A.J. Kanellopoulos, MD Eye Surgeon, Mesogeion 2, Athens Tower B’ Tel: 210.747.2777 Dimitris Linos, MD FACS General Surgeon, Kifissias 227, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.612.5001-2 HEART & VASCULAR CENTRE E.N. Deliargyris, MD FACC FSCAI Interventional cardiologist. Southern Athens. Vakchou 2 & Vas. Kostantinou Tel:210.897.6276. www.heartline.gr

DR. KOVEOS D.M.D. DENTAL OFFICE

Cosmetic, Implant & Reconstructive Dentistry 20-22 Ipsilantou str., Kolonaki 106 76 Athens-Greece Tel: 210 7242211 Fax: 210 7242212 E-mail: info@drkoveos.com Website: www.drkoveos.com

English media

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

EUROCLINIC diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre.

Athanasiadou 9. (near Mavili Sq.).

Tel: 210.641.6600 EURODENTICA Specialized dental care Patision 150, Tel: 210. 866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.5760-1 El. Venizelou 162, Kallithea.

Tel: 210.956.5365 HYGEIA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi. Tel: 210.686.7000 www.ygeia.gr IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER) Areos 36, P. Faliro.

Tel: 210.989.2100-20. Distomou 5-7, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.8100 METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El. Venizelou, N. Faliro. Tel: 210.480.9000 www.metropolitan-hospital.gr IASO Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.618.4000 MITERA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.686.9000

NEWSPAPERS The International Herald Tribune carries the English version of Kathimerini The local Athens News comes out Fridays.

RADIO Antenna 97.2 FM news at 8.25am.

Flash Radio 96.0 FM 8.55am, 3pm and 8pm daily.

ERA public radio 91.6 FM for bulletins at 5am and 9am, full news coverage at 9.30pm.

Schools

Greek Language

Emergencies

VATICAN Mavili 2, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.674.3598 VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.9169

Health

MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14.

Tel: 210.729.4780 MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei.

Tel: 210.699.0660 MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.4210 NETHERLANDS Vas Konstantinou 5-7.

Tel: 210.725.4900 NIGERIA Dolianis 65, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Vas. Sofias 23.

Tel: 210.724.6173 PAKISTAN Loukianou 6.

Tel: 210.729.0122 PALESTINE Giassemion 13, P. Psychiko. Tel.: 210.672.6061-3 PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias, Piraeus. Tel: 210.428.6441 PERU Semitelou 2. Tel: 210.779.2761 PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychiko.

Tel: 210.672.1837 POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.679.7700 PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23.

Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784 QATAR Rigillis 16A Tel: 210.725.5031 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.8875 RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.5235 SAUDIA ARABIA Palaiologhou 2 & Agias Annis Tel: 210.671.6911 SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Tel: 210.777.4344 SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou. Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.677.1980 SLOVENIA Mavili 10, Tel: 210.672.0090-091 SOUTH AFRICA Kifissias 60, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.610.6645 SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, Tel: 210.921.3123 SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7, Tel: 210.726.6100 SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2, Tel: 210.723.0364-6 TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57, Tel: 210.677.5122 Representative office THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 & Kyprou, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.9065 TUNISIA Antheon 2, P. Psychiko, Tel: 210.671.7590 TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8, Tel: 210.726.3000 UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei, Tel: 210.680.0230 UNITED KINGDOM Ploutarchou 1.

Tel: 210.727.2600 UNITED STATES Vas. Sofias 91.

Tel: 210.721.2951 URUGUAY Menandrou 1, Kifissia Tel: 210.361.3549

The Athens Center 48 Archimidous Street, Mets, Athens 11636, Greece 210 7015-242 CELT Athens 77 Academias Street, 106 78 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210 3301455 Greek House Dragoumi 7, 145 61 Kifissia, Tel: 210 808 5186 Hellenic American Union 22 Massalias str., 106 80 Athens, Tel: 210368.0900 Omilo Greek Language And Culture Panagi Tsaldari 13 (4th floor), 15122 Maroussi, Tel: 210 6122706

insider athens | February 2012 67

Greek Manpower Employment Organization (OAED) www.oaed.gr, Tel: 210 99 89 000 Public Services Administration Information Center (paperwork assistance) on weekdays 8am-3pm (KEP): Tel: 177, ww.kep.gov.gr

Public Power Corporation (DEI) In case of power failure: Tel: 210, 523 9939 www.dei.gr

Weather Attica, Tel: 148, www.hnms.gr

Water Supply & Sewage (EYDAP) In case of water cut: Tel: 1202, www.eydap.gr

Citizen’s Rights Ombudsman: 5 Hatziyiannis Mexis (near the Hilton Hotel), Tel: 210 72 89 640

UNIVERSITIES University of Indianapolis Ipitou 9, Athens, Tel: 210 323 6647 DEREE Gravias 6, Aghia Paraskevi, Tel: 210 600 9800

68 insider athens | February 2012

ALBA Graduate Business School Athinas Ave. & Areos 2A, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210 896 4531 American University of Athens Kifisias & Sochou 4, Neo Psichiko, Tel: 210 725 9301 Business College of Athens Tatoiou 2 & Othonos 77, Kifissia Tel: 210 808 8008

International Kindergartens

International Schools

St Catherine's British Embassy School Sofoklis Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi Tel: 210 282 9750 St. Lawrence College Anemon St, Koropi Tel: 210 891 7000 American Community Schools of Athens Aghias Paraskevis Ave. 129, Halandri, Tel: 210 639 3200 Campion School Aghias Ioulianis, Pallini Tel: 210 607 1700 Byron College Filolaou 7, Gerakas Tel: 210 604 7722 International School of Athens Xenias and Artemidos, Kifissia, Tel: 210 623 3888 Lycée Franco-Hellénique Eugène Delacroix Chlois & Trikalon, Ag. Paraskevi Tel: 211 300 9121 Scuola Statale Italiana Odos Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia Tel: 210 228 2720 German School in Athens Homatianou & Ziridi, Maroussi Tel: 210 619 9261 Greek German School 25 Martiou & Vernardou, Vrylissia Tel: 210 682 0566

ENGLISH KINDERGARTENS The Cottage Kindergarten Psaron 74, Halandri Tel: 210 682 7629 Early Learning Rizountos 53, Elliniko Tel: 210 961 8763 Hopscotch International Kindergarten Ag. Triandos 93, Vari Tel: 210 965 3985 Kifissia Montessori School Ellinikon Stratou 5, Kifissia Tel: 210 620 7481 Melina’s Kindergarten Harilaou Trikoupi 16, Kifissia Tel: 210 801 2719 Peek-a-boo PreSchool Vougliameni Tel: 210 967 1970 Peter Pan Lakonias 4-6, Voula Tel: 210 895 9654 Prince Allen The English Nursery School Lysimahou 8, Vari Tel: 210 965 6800

Au petit bonheur 50 Iraklitou, Glyfada, Tel: 210 9658 207 Les Alouettes Spartis 36 & Harilaou Trikoupi, Kifissia Tel: 210 80 11 570 L’Air des Contes 11, Cycladon, Glyka Nera, Tel : 210 600 3196 Le Castelet 18 Gortinias, Kifissia, Tel: 210 808 7760 Mary Poppins 4, Kodrou, Filothei, Tel: 210 677 3803 Play and Learn Kassaveti 22, Kifissia, Tel: 210 801 1428

GERMAN KINDERGARTENS O mikros Antonis Barbayiannis, Pallini, Tel: 210 603 2527

ITALIAN KINDERGARTENS Scuola maternal italiana de Atene Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia, Tel: 210 202 0274 Il Mulino magico Troados 23, Ag Paraskevi, Tel: 210 600 3148 British Council Library Kolonaki Sq. 17 Tel: 210 363 3211/5 American Library Masalias 22 (4th floor) Tel: 210 363 8114 American School of Classical Studies Blegen Souedias 54, Tel: 210 723 6313 Athens College Library Stephanou Delta, P. Psychiko Tel: 210 671 4628 Hellenic American Union Greek Library 22 Masalias St (7th floor), Tel: 210 362 9886 French Institute Library 31 Sina St, Tel: 210 362 4301 German Archaeological Institute Library Pheidiou 1, Tel: 210 362 0270 Goethe Institute Library Omirou 14-16, Tel: 210 360 8111 Italian Institut Library Patision 47, Tel: 210 522 9294 EU Library Vas. Sophias 2, Tel: 210 724 3982 National Library Tzavella 25, Tel: 210 382 0657 Benakeios Library Anthimou Gazi 2, Tel: 210 322 71

Libraires

Road Assistance ELPA: 104

Social Security & Health Insurance (IKA) www.ika.gr

Money

FRENCH KINDERGARTENS Telephone & Internet Services (OTE) New tel: 138, Tel. (defective): 129 OTE customer service: 134 International call information (English, French & German): 169 www.ote.gr

LOST OR STOLEN CREDIT CARDS

Post Phone

useful information

Post offices operate weekdays 8am-2pm. The main post offices in Athens are located at SYNTAGMA SQUARE and OMONIA SQUARE at Aeolou 100 and open weekdays 7:30am-8pm, Sat 7:30am-2pm, and Sun 9am-1:30pm.

AMERICAN EXPRESS Tel: 210.326.2626 DINERS CLUB Tel: 210.929.0200 EUROCARD Tel: 210.950.3673 MASTERCARD Tel: 00800.1188.70303, VISA Tel: 00.800.1163.803.04

Country Code: 30 City Code: 210 international calls first dial 00, then the country code.

To call from a Public payphone buy a phone card at the kiosks

Incoming

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getting around

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata.

Tel: 210.353.0000, 210.353.1000. www.aia.gr.

24 HOUR VIP TRANSPORT SERVICE

Car rental

WSW Skycap Services at Athens Airport provides Meet & Greet, Baggage Hauling and Transport Service.

Tel: 210.353.0100 www.skycap.gr For info about the public bus lines please check our section Getting Around Ada Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.322.0087 Arena Tel: 210.894.6883, 210.614.7400 Auto Union Tel: 210.922.1211/1213 Avis Tel: 210.322.4951 Budget Tel: 210.921.4771-3 Europcar Tel: 210.924.8810-8 Hertz Tel: 210.998.2000 Michael Stamou Luxury Rentals Tel: 210.922.2442/43 Sixt Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.570.6895, 210.922.0171

LIMOUSINES

Public transport

AAA Royal Prestige Tel: 210.988.3221 Astra Limousine Service Tel: 210.922.0333/807.9996 Convecta Travel Agency & Limousine Services Tel: 210.322.5090 Limousines Kakaya Tel: 210.323.4120 Combined tickets for metro, buses and trolleys (€1) are available from metro stations and central ticket booths, valid within 90 mins of validation for all public transport - except the airport service, which costs 6€.

EXPRESS BUS FROM/ TO AIRPORT To and from Syntagma Square (bus X95, 70 min. approx.), Ethniki Amyna metro station (bus X94, 50 min. approx.) and Piraeus (bus X96, 90 min. approx.). Tickets available at the Arrivals Hall; validate on board. Buses leave every 10-15 minutes. Fare is €3.20 and the ticket is valid for 24 hours on buses, trolleys and metro. For further information dial 185 or visit www.oasa.gr, www. ametro.gr. For info on trains see www.proastiakos.gr

HELLENIC RAILWAYS ORGANISATION Karolou 1. Tel: 210.529.7002 www.ose.gr

ATHENS METRO Line 1 (Piraeus-Kifissia) 5am-midnight, Line 2 (Agios Antonios-Agios Dimitrios) 5.30am-midnight, Line 3 (EgaleoDoukissis Plakentias) 5.30am-midnight Line 3 (Egaleo-Airport) 5.30am-22.52pm and 06.30am-23.30pm.

The last itinerary is 2 hours later on Friday and Saturday night than it is during the week. www.ametro.gr

TRAM Tram itineraries are only from Syntagma to S.E.F (in Neo Faliro) and from Syntagma to Asklipio Voulas. From Monday to Thursday, trams operate from 5.am until midnight and non-stop from Friday morning to Sunday midnight. www.tramsa.gr

TAXIS from the airport cost about €20 to Syntagma Square, €25 to Piraeus, depending on traffic. Between midnight and 5am double tariff applies.

Note: If you suspect that you have been overcharged, you can call the tourist police 0n 171

INTERCITY BUSES Terminal 1: Buses for Igoumenitsa, Ioannina, Kavala, Loutraki, Patra, the Peloponese, and Thessaloniki. Kifissou 100Tel: 210.512.4910-1, www.ktel.org Terminal 2: Buses for Delphi, Evia, Galaxidi, Karpenisi, Katerini, Lamia, Livadia, Thiva and Volos. Liosion 260.

RADIO TAXI Enotita Tel: 210.645.9000 Ermis Tel: 210.411.5200 Ikarus Tel: 210.515.2800 Kifissia Tel: 210.801.4000 Piraeus Tel: 210.418.2333 Radio Taxi Glyfada Tel: 210.960.5600 There is a booking fee of e1 added to the meter

SEA PORTS Piraeus Tel: 210.422.6000-4 Rafina Tel: 22940.22300, 22940.28888

Sea ports & Ferries

Airport

Airlines

Aegean Tel: 801.11.20000 Air France KLM Tel: 210.998.0222 Air Malta Tel: 210.965.2300-22 Alitalia Tel: 210.998.8888 American Tel: 210.361.3373 Air Taxis (Helicopter and plane charters) Tel: 210.938.4149 British Airways Tel: 801.11.56000 BMI Tel: 210.960.0942 Continental Tel: 210.353.4312 Cyprus Airways Tel: 210.353.4100 Delta Tel: 210.331.1673-6 Easy Jet Tel: 210.353.0300 El Al Tel: 210.934.1500-1 Emirates Tel: 210.933.3400 Etihad Tel: 210.960.56.08 Gulf Air Tel: 210.322.0851 Iberia Tel: 210.353.6004 Lufthansa Tel: 210.617.5200 Olympic Airways Tel: 210.966.6666 Qatar Airways Tel: 210.950.8700 Swiss / Crossair Tel: 210.617.5320 Tunisair Tel: 210 3220104-5 Turkish Tel: 210.353.7280-2

FERRIES Ferries run year-round. For information on seasonal schedules contact a travel agent or call the Port Police on 210.422.6000 From the Port of Piraeus Northern and Eastern Aegean Islands: Gates A & B Chios, Ikaria, Lesvos, Samos, Dodecanese Islands: Gate E Kalymnos, Kos Leros, Patmos, Rhodes, Saronic Gulf Islands:

Hellenic Seaways 210 41 99 000 www.hellenicseaways.gr, Anek Lines www.anek.gr Domestic lines: 210 41 97 420 International lines: 210 41 97 430 Minoan Lines www.minoan.gr Tel:801 11 75 000

YACHT CHARTERS A1 Yacht Trade Consortium Akti Themistokleous 8, Marina Zeas, Piraeus. Tel: 210.458.7100 Ghiolman Yachts Filellinon 7, Syntagma. Tel: 210.323.0330 Nava Yachts Loudovikou Sq. 6, Piraeus.

Tel: 210.417.7728 Northstar Poseidonos 54, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.988.4000 PGA Alimou & Poseidonos, Alimos.

Tel: 210.985.9400 Seahorse Alkyonidon 83 (Marina), Voula.

Tel: 210.895.2212, 210.895.6733 Seascape Poseidonos Ave. 29, Alimos.

Tel/Fax: 210.985.8301 Valef Yachts Pl. Chatzikonstanti 2, Piraeus. Tel:210.451.2010 Vernicos Yachts Posidonos 11, Kalamaki.

Tel: 210.985.0122-8

Gates G & E

Aegina, Hydra, Poros, Spetses, Crete: Gate A Aghios Nikolaos, Chania, Iraklio, Kastelli (Kissamos), Rethymno, Cycladic Islands:

Gates B, G & D

Astipalea, Folegandros, Kimolos, Kithnos, Milos, Serifos, Sifnos: Gate B Amorgos, Donoussa, Ios, Iraklia, Koufonissi, Mykonos, Santorini, Schinoussa, Syros, Tinos: Gates G&D Naxos, Paros: Gate G

SUPERFAST FERRIES Daily departures, Greece - Italy: from Patras and Igoumenitsa to Ancona and Bari Head office: 23-125 Syngrou Avenue & 3 Torva Street 11745 Athens.

Tel:210.891.9000 Reservations: Athens: 210.891.9130 Thessaloniki: 2310.560.700 www.superfast.com

insider athens | February 2012 69

sales points For central Athens points, see i on map EASTERN SUBURBS Gerakas: Mini Market Milionis: 131, Marathonos Avenue Pallini: Bookshop Bouzas: 63, Marathonos Street Peania: Bookshop Tangopoulos: Agias Triados Street

NORTHERN SUBURBS AG.PARASKEVI: Mini Market Avarakis: 3, Themistokleous Street, Kiosk Theodoropoulos: 8, Polytechniou Street DIONYSSOS: Kiosk Michail: 4, Mitropolitou Kydonion Street EKALI: Kiosk Kyrpoglou: Vassileos Pavlou Square FILOTHEI: Kiosk Roupa: Drossopoulou Square, Super Market Kyriakopoulos: 11, M.Renieri Street, Mini Market Plati: 27, V.Georgiou Street HALANDRI: Mini Market Kyriakou: 3, Lykourgou Street, Kiosk Drizos: V. Konstantinou & V.Georgiou Street, Bookshop Evripidis: 11, V.Konstantinou Street, Mini Market Bakatsia: 46, Pendelis Avenue, Bookshop Vivliostyl: 34, Olympou Street, Mini Market Tsakiri: 76, Ag.Antoniou Street HOLARGOS: Kiosk Bekiaris: 212, Messogion Aveue, Kiosk Tambouridis: 256, Messogion Avenue KEFALARI: Kiosk Glentzis: Patr.Maximou & Apergi Square KIFISSIA: Kiosk Karadouman: 36-38, Kyriazi Street, Bookshop Gioggaras: 34, Elaion Street, Kiosk Koutsodimou: 308, Kifissias Avenue MAROUSSI: Tobacco & Gifts Tsitsilonis: 41-43, Kifissias Avenue, Tobacco & Gifts Raptis: 64, Kifissias Street, Kiosk Stefanopoulos: 46, Kifissias Street, Mini Market Kitsios: 43, Grammoou & Dionyssou Street MELISSIA: Kiosk Manikas: 75, Dimokratias Avenue, Mini Market Koufopandelis: 28, Pigis Street NEA ERYTHREA: Kiosk Anastassopoulos: 142, Harilaou Trikoupi Street, Bookshop Giannaki: 169, Eleftheriou Venizelou Street, Newsstand: 20 klm National Road Athens-Lamia, Kiosk Konidakis: Thisseos Avenue & Papadaki, Kiosk Kallergis: 130, Tatoiou Street NEO PSYCHIKO: Kiosk Katichidis: E.Makariou & Michalakopoulou Street, Kiosk Doukas: 44, Diamantidou Street, Kiosk Gionis: 25, Chr.Smyrnis & Ag.Georgiou Street PAPAGOU: Mini Market Papavassiliou: 16, Ellispontou Street

PALEO PSYCHIKO: Kiosk Kyriakou: Solomou Square, Kiosk Gialama: Efkalypton Square, Kiosk Polydoros: Kifissias & Ag.Dimitriou Street, Kiosk Kalogeropoulos: V. GeorgiouSquare, Kiosk Kontabasis: 2, Amaryllidos & V. Pavlou Street, Kiosk Kalfagian: V. Georgiou B’ 11 POLITIA: Kiosk Vovlas: Politia Square VRILISSIA: Kiosk Theodoropoulou: 5, Analypsi Square, Kiosk Aggelopoulos: Pendelis Avenue & Omirou, Bookshop Karystinaiou: 69, Alefiou Street

SOUTHERN SUBURBS GLYFADA: Kiosk Tamourantzis: 3, Metaxa & Maragou Street, Kiosk Tsakanikas: 3, Lambraki Street, Kiosk Mavraki: Pandoras & Ioanni Metaxa, Kiosk Adamopoulos: 20, Ioanni Metaxa Street, Kiosk Papadakou: 7, Ioanni Metaxa Street, Kiosk Haikal: 1, Ioanni Metaxa & Fivis Street, Kiosk Bolota: Gounari & Iraklitou Street, Kiosk Bellou: 5, Saki Karagiorga Street, Mini Market Agiokatsikos: 24, Ilias Street HELLINIKO: NewsStand: 43-47, Vouliagmenis Avenue ILIOUPOLIS: Super Market Kokossis: 5, Glastonos Street LAGONISI: Kiosk Vassiliadis: 37,5 klm Athinon-Souniou Avenue NEA SMYRNI: Kiosk Manoussos: 28, Eleftheriou Venizelou Street VARKIZA: Kiosk Paraskevopoulou: Varkiza Square VOULA: Kiosk Leontopoulos: 12, Sokratous Street, Mini Market Pournara: 33, Pringipos Petrou Street, Kiosk Christopoulou: V. Pavlou & Ag. Ioanni Street VOULIAGMENI: Kiosk Andrioti: Armonias Square, Kiosk Chryssikos: 1, Ermou Street, Kiosk Kylitis: 14, Thisseos Street PALEO FALIRO: Kiosk Kombogianni: 1, Ag. Alexandrou Street, Kiosk Kapetanou: 24, Achilleos Street, Mini Market Nikouli: 9, Pliadon Street, Tobacco & Gifts Berekos: 1, Possidnos Avenue & Moraitini Street PIRAEUS: Hand Delivery Telstar: 57, Akti Miaouli, Tourist Chop Siatras: 46, Akti Koumoundourou Street, Kiosk Samarogiannis: 7, Merarhias B’Street, Kiosk Siaho: Akti Moutsopoulou (Kanari Square), Kiosk Kentros: 73, Iroon Polytechniou Street, Kiosk Fotis: 1, Loudovikou Street, Kiosk Spalas: 111, Karaiskou Street, Newsstand: Railway Station Loudovikou Square

www.mysephora.gr

For central Athens stores, see on map ASPROPIRGOS Filis 100 & Bouboulinas, Tel: 210.558.0989 ERMOU Ermou 24 Tel: 210. 331.3167 & 325.7744 KALLITHEA Thisseos & Davaki, Tel: 210.956.5959 - 956.5446 KIFISSIA Kassaveti 6, Tel: 210.623.1741 & 623.1742 KORYDALLOS Taxiarhon 110A, Tel: 210.569.5270 569.5998 THE MALL, Notios Paradromos Attikis Odou, Tel: 210.630.0125 & 630.0126 AVENUE Kifissias 41-45, Tel: 210.610.9739 & 610.9740

70 insider athens | February 2012

GOLDEN HALL Kifissias Av. 37A & Sp. Louis, Tel: 210.683.7343 PANGRATI Ymittou 110 & Hremonidou, Tel: 210.751.8005 GLYFADA A. Metaxa 33-35, Tel: 210. 894.3378 & 894.5884 KOLONAKI Milioni 2, Tel: 210. 361.2666 & 362.9925 NEA MAKRI Marathonos Av. 117, Tel: 229.409.9661 PERISTERI Ethnikis Antistaseos 12, Tel: 210. 571.0755 PETROU RALLI Petrou Ralli 97, Tel: 210. 569.6596 & 569.7316 PIKERMI 21oklm. Marathonos Av., Tel: 210. 603.9987 PSYCHIKO Kifissias 210, Tel: 210. 677.5527 & 674.0178 VRILISSIA Pentelis Av. 72, Tel: 210. 810.1971 & 810.1972

city map

Map courtesy of Emvelia Publications

insider athens | February 2012 71

K A L E I DOSCOP E 1

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60 years of Greek migration to Australia 2012 marks the 60th anniversary of post-war Greek migration to Australia, when thousands of Greeks set sail for a new country on the other side of the world in search of a new life and new opportunities. The International Organisation of Migration donated pictures from its archives that were exhibited on the occasion of Australia Day on February 1, that tell the poignant tale of over 75,000 Greeks who migrated to Australia between 1952 and 1982. Here is a tribute to the Greek migrants who worked hard to build a home, educate their children and contribute to their community. They thrived in an egalitarian, informal society, and they embraced the sense of opportunity and the future possibilities for their children that Australia offered them.

72 insider athens | February 2012

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