ROBINSON’S RAMBLINGS

BY JOHN DRAKE ROBINSON · PHOTOS BY L.G. PATTERSON

Recently, I rode my bicycle down the Katy Trail and stopped at one legendary gathering place. At the bottom of Boone County, between Rocheport and Hartsburg, Cooper's Landing serves the Missouri River as country store, campground, music venue and marina.

What a great setting to bring family and friends: a bonfire; great music from the bandstand; plenty of picnic tables; your favorite beverages and snacks served from the open window of the store; easy parking and plenty of campsites for tents and RVs. They even offer glamping, the glamorous camping alternative, with a brand new “Backyards and Beyond” glamping tent package ready to rent.

The entire property sits along the Katy Trail and the magnificent Missouri River, the longest river on the continent, which means you can get there by bike or boat. But most people take the easy drive to this beautiful spot.

From a food truck, I received a hearty helping of the world's best river fare. I sat on a picnic bench and listened to live music, performed by disciples of Jerome Wheeler, the dearly departed Missouri River muse. A solitary pleasure boat arrived at the marina. Then a kayak appeared from the west. If it were summer, I’d guess she was a contestant in the Missouri River 340, the world's longest nonstop canoe race.

Kayaks and pleasure boats remain rare sights between Kansas City and St. Louis. Other states have successfully turned the river into a playground, even as they siphon water and sell it off. Missouri has been slow to engage the river’s recreational potential.

But hold onto your paddle.

Years ago, before I became Missouri tourism director, then-U.S. Secretary of the Interior Bruce Babbitt stood on the banks of the Missouri River and shared his vision for a Missouri River trail. He was concerned about the river’s future. I trusted Babbitt because of his open frankness. To wit, as a presidential candidate he faced the question:

"What's your favorite drink?" Other candidates listed milk, tea, lemonade, water, coffee.

Babbitt said he liked Tecate, a Mexican beer!

Babbitt's answer was Trumanesque. You may not like Tecate, or alcohol, or Mexico, for that matter. But you’ve got to trust somebody who will tell you the truth. Babbitt bared his salivary predilections to the world, even if it meant losing votes.

So when he came to the banks of the Missouri River to promote the idea of a national Missouri River trail, I was all ears. Babbitt is from Arizona, a state that covets water. Maybe that's why his vision had an impact on me. Resurrect "Big Muddy" from the list of endangered American rivers — engage it, immerse in it, draw life from it before Dakotans siphon off all the water and sell it to Arizona.

Mike Cooper brought that vision to life at Cooper’s Landing. His property became Columbia’s portal to the river, a spot to commune with nature. It’s an oasis, too — the only boat fuel station between St. Louis and Kansas City.

After 30 years, Cooper was looking to sell a few years ago. Enter Richard King, a man with a vision to take Cooper’s Landing to the next level. He and a few investors bought the property.

Three days after they closed on the deal, the river rose in a flood that lasted three months. When the river receded, King, his son Nick and general manager Michael De Leon went to work to preserve, improve and maintain the charm of this iconic spot bordering a sweeping bend in the river. They were joined by Missouri River Relief folks.

“They didn’t know me and I only knew a few of them but they held my hand during that horrible flood,” King recalls. “They bailed me out with boats, bodies and genuine love of that river.”

King and crew serve up the ingredients for a fun, relaxing and memorable time. And as good stewards of the river, the crew is doing things right.

Bruce Babbitt would be proud.

Check out the Cooper’s Landing website at cooperslandingmo.com.

See you around the campfire.

John Drake Robinson is a former director of the Missouri Division of Tourism and has driven every mile of highway in the state. His appetite covers a wide range of subjects at johndrakerobinson.com.