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Mark Higgins Historic Narratives

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EDITOR'S NOTE

THE LUXE OF LOVE

My first terno by @ivaraseron and my fave model (left) @bitagcol wearing Joey Samson. #FashionableFilipinas

We in the RED team agree that luxe means expensive and of high quality. But I’ve also realized that luxe can mean different things to different people.

Yesterday, I wore a terno, made by Ivar Aseron, for the first time, and I hadn’t thought I would enjoy wearing one as much as I did. It felt luxe. I had told Ivar I didn’t want any beading, and knowing it would be my first and last terno, it better fit me whether I gain or lose weight. If I might say so myself, he designed the best terno. It was comfortable, well-designed, and created with impeccable workmanship. Yes, those to me define luxe.

Ultimately, I believe luxe is something you can experience.

Aside from well-designed items, I also enjoy eating good food and just hanging out in a beautiful place with good company.

In this issue, we try to cover as many kinds of luxuries as possible. In fact, because Christmas is just around the corner, we’re featuring some gift items that anyone would love. And because time is luxury, we’ve made it easier to find them, as they’re available only in Rustan’s. We also have a travel story that shows the luxury of gaining different perspectives within the same country, as told through the lens of Gab de Leon.

Then, chefs Chele Gonzales and JP Anglo share their favorite things and most memorable meals—other forms of luxuries, regardless of whether they’re simple or extravagant.

Our choices affect the quality of our lives immensely, so choose well to live well! We hope to help you make the right choices.

Thank you City Super for the yummy Gillardeau oysters. #HK

Sunday love. #beach #Philippines

@riaprieto

FOLLOW US ON

Inquirer RED Magazine-OFFICIAL

@inquirerRED

@inquirerred

Want to see the other issues of Inquirer RED Magazine? Check out inquirer.net/red

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P H OT OGRAP H Y (T U RN TABL E) N IC H O L AS AL AN C O PE F O R WS J MAG AZINE

ACQUIRED

MODERN BARWARE NEWPORT

Play with patterns with this embellished piece from Jonathan Adler. Designed with a 24-karat gold luster profiling the glass body, the gilded bucket screams merriment and a hint of the eccentric.

SERVICE GAME Items of note for your next holiday hosting duty WORDS M E G M AN Z AN O

From rare Rolex timepieces to Porsche 914s, Alejandro Alcocer has always been in pursuit of the most elusive (and oftentimes most expensive). After a relentless search for an all-black Rolex Military Explorer that had yielded no results, Alcocer was resigned to creating his own, his desire to procure the said item the ultimate necessity that provoked invention. Today, after building a reputation among gents as the source for coveted limited edition watches (one piece conveniently priced at 20,000 USD, with his signature custom matte black finish and diamond-like coating), the vintage enthusiast has forayed into the art of sound systems. While a custom redwood turntable may set one back anywhere from 10,000 USD to 16,000 USD, it seems a most decent investment given Alcocer’s growing cult status and the guarantee of limited numbers.

CLIFF HOUSE BAR CART

A restrained take on Art Deco, Ralph Lauren’s rendition of a Prohibition era drinks station on wheels looks like the perfect framework for a collection of cocktails. With its steel frame, leather accents, and dark glass, the piece’s geometry readily invokes efficiency even for the most inebriated of guests.

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ANTY GIN

From the folks branded as the world’s first gin tailor, The Cambridge Distillery, comes a commendable collaborative effort: the Anty Gin. Created in partnership with food diversity authority Nordic Food Lab, the gin is the first to include red wood ants in its process along with Bulgarian juniper berries and wild botanicals.

With each batch limited to only 99 bottles, the rather antsy gin makes for a good conversation starter come cocktail hour.

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BLING RING

Eager to cultivate local luxury, the ladies—and gent—Nicole Whisenhunt, Kristine Dee, and Paul Syjuco launched

their jewelry collections last

month. Whisenhunt conjured inspiration from verse with

Poetry in Roses, while Dee and

Syjuco teamed up for their joint launch for Necessary Luxuries.

Jewelry enthusiasts can take

their picks from quirky teeth rings and sophisticated bar

necklaces to golden earrings carved into rose shapes.

Necessary Luxuries may be

viewed at Aum Jewels, The

Peninsula Manila; Poetry in

Roses may be acquired through Nicole Whisenhunt at

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very much thinking along the same lines when they first conceived the charity gala. Now on its seventh year, they couldn’t be happier with how their project has taken off successfully and continues to raise support for their beneficiaries: the Philippine Red Cross and the Assumption High School Batch 1981 Foundation.

Prieto-Valdez was accompanied onstage by Tim Yap to start the live auction. Bids went up quickly for items that included premium jewelry, trips to Paris, a membership to Balesin, and even Madonna concert tickets. Some raffle prizes were also given away, a “thank you” to those who have constantly supported the gala throughout the years.

The pièce de résistance came in the form of a runway show by Lesley Mobo. The designer showed a flair for a creatively unorthodox aesthetic and synergy as he presented Tudorinspired pieces rendered in sequins, beads, and crystals. From dresses to suits, Mobo’s crossbreed between Studio 54 patrons and British royalty left the audience scrambling to get their Instagram posts up in time before the next look came out.

—Olivia Estrada

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The Red Cross Charity Gala, held last Oct. 16 at the Rizal Ballroom of the Makati Shangri-La, brought together Manila society and fashion all for a good cause.

Guests, which included designers Joey Samson, Inno Sotto, and Jojie Lloren, celebrities Dawn Zulueta and Gretchen Barretto, and industry insiders like Ben Chan and Donnie and Crickette Tantoco, came dressed in their evening best and were greeted at the ballroom entrance by models wearing nothing but goosebumps and the latest Bench underwear collection, made in collaboration with London-based Filipino designer Lesley Mobo. Indulging the attendees with a banquet of wine, playing cards, and (empty) pills, the models got them all warmed up for the night.

Inside, the ballroom had been transformed into a hazy den of darkness, punctuated by deep violet lights and the faint glimmer of the chandeliers. It didn’t take long for Red Cross Charity Gala co-chairs Tessa Prieto-Valdez and Kaye Tinga to take the stage and formally welcome everyone.

They highlighted how, as friends, they were

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nicolewhisenhunt@yahoo.com

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ATTIRED

A/W 2015 brought out complementary looks ideal for him and for her

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BOYS LIKE GIRLS

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In this mostly female-marketed world of fashion, menswear trends usually become an afterthought. What should the boys do then? Borrowing from girls might just be too much for some guys.

Gender-bending pieces, on the other hand, might not cut it for some. But the autumn/winter season ushered in a great compromise: gender-friendly fashion trends that appeal to everyone.

Take a green fringe coat per se and wear it like a debonair if you’re a guy— and have a totally feminine take on it if you’re a girl. Gucci’s pastel suiting blurs the gender divide with pieces neither gender would feel intimidated by when worn.

Forget man clutches or boyfriend shirts. The trend of the season isn’t about borrowing pieces from each other but rather about a shared style statement.

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COUPLE DRESSING, ANYONE? The celebrity red carpet has been the genesis of an enduring trend: matchymatchy dressing. The most popular fabric of choice? Denim.

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BRITNEY SP EA RS A ND J USTIN TIMBERLA KE

K ATY P ERRY A ND RIFF RA FF

HEL EN L AS I CHAN H AN D P HARREL L WI L L I AM S

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SPECIAL FEATURE

BEATING THE CLOCK From travel to fashion and hair growth, Edu Manzano candidly reveals his favorites W ORD S DE NI S E FE RNA NDE Z

Age is simply a number to local personality Edu Manzano. Having recently garnered senior citizen status last September, the actor, businessman, and politician notes the eight things that help him keep healthy and happy.

Traveling and exploring new places. “Aside from going back to my hometown in Iloilo, I love traveling to places people barely hear of: Zamboanga Sibugay, Siquijor, Dumaguete.

There’s a certain feel about them. They’re so laid-back. People there are very friendly.

When you get to sit down with new friends, you have this source of new ideas. You never realize how beautiful the Philippines is. I’ve never been fearful of trying new things and going to new places.”

Keeping a consistent workout routine to stay fit. “I still run, but I pace myself. I still play badminton. I started taking up kettlebell recently, for the past two and a half months.

I go for a good stretch, too. You know, the older you get, the more your muscles retract, so stretching allows you to extend them. I try to do my routine thrice a week.”

Sticking to a healthy diet. “I just started a new diet with flaxseed and kefir. Kefir, which is fermented milk, comes all the way from Cagayan De Oro. It’s delivered every Sunday to my house, and it lasts only a week so I have to be consistent with it. I also do a lot of juicing and eat Nutribars, and I cap them all off with crispy pata [laughs]. I cheat once in a while.”

Listening to music. “Don’t laugh, but I’ve been listening to hip-hop. I like Usher. It’s a mix, really. I like Sam Smith as well. I picked up hip-hop because my nephew is the choreographer of Jabawockeez. They live in

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P H OT OGRAP H Y TAM M Y DAV ID

Las Vegas now, and they always send me [videos of ] their routines.”

Staying up-to-date with the finest in fashion.

“I’m a shoe guy. I like Tod’s because their shoes are very functional, lightweight, don’t draw too much attention. I don’t like wearing socks, so Tod’s is perfect for me.”

Keeping the mind sharp by reading books.

“Because of the season, I’m currently reading The Great Political Theories, a compilation. I can’t leave home without reading the newspaper too. I also read Newsweek and TIME. It’s like going to war with enough ammunition. You bring your own bullets.”

Being in touch with technology and social media.

“I engage on Instagram and Twitter. I started Facebook recently because all my friends are on Facebook. My son Luis and I both have insane Instagram accounts. When I’m stuck in traffic and bored, I post [photos] and engage my followers. I made a lot of friends along the way.”

Hair Renovation by The Aivee Group. “I noticed it whenever I comb my hair: I was starting to get more and more hair fall. Then I found out about ARTAS and The Aivee Group’s Hair Restoration.

When I got to know more about the technology, I came in and said, ‘Let’s try it!’ Nothing ventured, nothing gained. It’s really state of the art. When they took a single patch of my hair, enough for the best of my needs, I didn’t even feel it. There was no pain. Then they had to do the design [based on] the wave of my hair and where it leans. Now, I have more friends and people don’t seem to avoid me like they used to [laughs]. I was able to refer some people and we all had the same reaction to ARTAS. It was so convenient, it was so quick, it was painless.

It’s very effective. Of course, I didn’t want to be the first Manzano to lose his hair [laughs]. ”

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John Galiano blazer; Muji pants; TODS loafers

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Jacket, Issey Miyake, tribecaisseymiyake.com; polo, Pal Zileri, palzileri.com.

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ADMIRED

GENERATIONAL DIVULGENCE Mark Lewis Higgins on the art of storytelling WORDS M E G M AN Z AN O P H OT OGRAP H Y CYRUS PAN GAN IBAN

There exist those who are possessively quiet of their lineage, guarding family secrets, careful to bequeath generations of treasured knowledge.

And then there are the Higgins siblings, heirs to celebrated couturier Salvacion Lim of Slim’s fame and founding. Mark Lewis and Sandy Higgins, whose everyday lives have become increasingly entwined with their mother’s enduring sartorial significance, seem to have readily taken on the roles of “custodians of her legacy,” as Lim’s son carefully puts it.

Mark Lewis Higgins, one will learn instantly, is not much for aimless conversation. A session of discourse with the painter/design director/ curator—“I was born an artistic child”—will yield an hour or two’s worth of a seamlessly untangled narrative. The man operates from a place that sees context as imperative and will by all means attempt to steer the discussion to tackle a subject in its entirety—not unlike a professor highlighting his lecture. Higgins, however, also has a terrible knack for doing this with such ease that losing one’s self in his stories during an interview could count as an occupational hazard.

“I had this untapped warehouse of information that I figured it was like our duty to share what we had or knew,” muses the painter.

This warehouse of information houses, among other things, an exhaustive account of his mother’s tips and tricks as well as historical nuggets of trivia. “Do you know there’s an ancient Tagalog epic poem?” he mentions in between talking about the release of his new book (cowritten by Gino Gonzales) Fashionable Filipinas:

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An Evolution of the Philippine National Dress. “It’s sort of like the ‘Mahabharata,’ called ‘Hinilawod.’

It’s [such] an epic poem that reciting it properly takes three days. Isn’t that so interesting?”

Higgins, whose primary currency is storytelling, has chosen to revel in this craft even further by archiving his mother’s work. On a Thursday afternoon, he provides an antidote to the week’s monotony by allowing me entrance into his rabbit hole of an office. “Let me turn on that noisy air-con,” he suggests as he shows me around the Slim’s Fashion and Arts School, which he co-manages along with his sister. The space the curator holds in the school is every bit as eclectic as its resident: a grand wall of shelves display an archive of Lim’s embroidery samples (“If ever I come up with another book, it will be on this,” he declares as he leafs through four decades’ worth of intricate craftsmanship), a portion of the space is carpeted by tiger stripes, and an electric shade of blue taking the form of a desk sits on a corner near the door. Most afternoons, one can find the couturier’s descendant sitting where he is sitting now, entertaining occasional knocks on his door from students either asking him for advice or borrowing coffee table books from his personal library. “You’ll think it’s really stupid but we never thought about it,” he confesses when asked about the inevitability of he and his sister’s taking over their mother’s design academy, “[I guess] she never thought of burdening her kids with her legacy.”

Suddenly, as if she had been summoned, his sister enters the room. “Oh my god, major

caffeine,” she says of the Starbucks paper bags populating her brother’s table. Very much like her brother, Sandy Higgins isn’t one for casual chitchat. “What do you think of the school?” she asks me. “Is Mark what you expected him to be?”

Together, the siblings playfully recount their mother’s attempted balance of career and family.

“I remember we kept receiving these flowers at our house and our mom kept sending them to the hospital,” she recalls. No longer baffled by the public acclaim, having grown up within the light of their mother’s design career, the two are on a relentless march toward sharing with their students the art they had the pleasure of witnessing from the best seats—right in their house.

“You see, the funny thing is my mom and I sort of come full circle,” says Higgins. Whereas the Higgins matriarch had started as an art student then ended up becoming a fashion designer, he had studied fashion design in New York only to become a painter, his works exhibited in the likes of the Asian Art in London fair. He has a need for a more solitary art more than a career in an industry that deals with endless fittings and client visits.

Admittedly not an extrovert—“Even just talking to a classroom of people, I’m not used to”—Higgins, after a decade of absence from his painterly habits, can now retreat to his solitude with the launch of Fashionable Filipinas. It appears that despite a love for telling stories whether through strokes of paint, soigné designs, written text, or even conversing, the artist’s literary heart remains comfortable with an audience of one.

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“WHEN I’M HER AGE, I WANT TO BE LIKE MY MATERNAL GRANDMOTHER. IF SHE DIDN’T HAVE A NEW GOWN WITH MATCHING SHOES AND BAG, SHE WOULDN’T LEAVE THE ROOM. HER NURSES WOULD CALL ME UP ON CHRISTMAS AND SAY, ‘YOU BETTER COME UP AND TALK SOME SENSE INTO YOUR LOLA BECAUSE SHE’S NOT LEAVING.’ I WANT TO BE LIKE THAT. I THINK THE REAL SIGN OF ELEGANCE IS HOW YOU LOOK WHEN YOU’RE BY YOURSELF.”

Blazer, John Galliano, johngalliano.com; pants, Muji, Greenbelt 3; loafers, Tod’s, Greenbelt 4; hat, book stacks both from, AC+632, Greenbelt 5.

CREATIVE DIRECTI ON NI MU MUA LLA M GROOMING B U LLE T RE YE S SET DESIGN RIA P RI E TO, ME G MA NZA NO SHO OT AS SISTA NT DE NI S E FE RNA NDE Z

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Clockwise from left: Defile Initial Scarf, Christian Lacroix; Two Toned Pointed Flats with Dorsay, Lady Rustan; Bag, Trina Turk; New Barocco Bracelet in Rose Gold, White Gold, and Diamonds, Roberto Coin; Jaipur Necklace in Yellow Gold and Colored Gems, Marco Bicego; Platinum Kaleidoscope Key with Chain Pendant, Tiffany & Co.; Necklace with Pendant and Tassel, Rustan’s Ladies’ Accessories; Ostrich Brights Wallet, Buxton; all available at Rustan’s.

WINTER WRAP-UP Enter Rustan’s endless selection of presents of all kinds, guaranteeing memorable Yuletide gift-giving for each and every member of the family P H OT OGRAP H Y PAT RICK S E GOV IA S T YL IN G M E G M AN Z AN O S H OOT AS S IS TAN T DE N IS E F E RN AN DE Z

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Clockwise from left: Flannel Receiving Blanket Set, Piccolo Bambino; Polar Pals Lunch Sack, Sugarbooger; Melamine Fire Engine Set, Kids Fun Ware; Gray Shawl Collar Cardigan and Green Skinny Pants, both from Neck & Neck; all available at Rustan’s.

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Clockwise from left: Solid Silk Tie with Logo in Red, Pedro del Hierro; Double Billfold Union Jack Wallet in Tan, Hackett; Rugby Stripe Socks in Sky and Purple, Thomas Pink; Longwing Leather Brogues in Brown, Oleg Cassini; Solid Cotton Chino with Fancy Waist in Khaki, Faconnable; Heritage Chronometrie Quantieme Annual Automatic Watch in 18K Rose Gold Case with Alligator Black Straps, Mont Blanc; Nylon Sports Jacket in Navy, Pedro del Hierro; all available at Rustan’s.

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Clockwise from left: Cosmopolitan Creamer and Sugar Bowl in Gold, both from Maissen; Silver Canary Accent Box in Red and Accent Box in Red, both from Gift Pavilion; Marchesa Painted Camellia Cup, Saucer, and Salad Plate, all from Marchesa by Lenox; TAC Gropius Skin Platin Cup, Rosenthal; all available at Rustan’s.

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Clockwise from left: Tourbillon Clear Small Vase, Lalique; Kawali Champagne Flutes in Grey and Red, Christofle; all available at Rustan’s.

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From top: “From the outside, you would never know we were here [inside] an unassuming old school, but once you enter, [you’ll see] we have transformed it into a modern fashion house.”; Linda Farrow’s Julian the Bear from its Christmas campaign, along with some covet-worthy A/W ’15 numbers; “Tracy and I designed the space ourselves. We did not feel the need for an architect as we did not build the office from scratch,” clarifies Jablon.

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SQUARED

FRAME OF REFERENCE Linda Farrow’s HQ makes a case for open space WORDS M E G M AN Z AN O

Months after the exclusive eyewear brand (generally given credit as the name that first realized frames as sartorial statements) set up shop in Manila, Linda Farrow now allows a moment’s entrance into its Farrington, London headquarters for a little tour.

“Open spaces are good,” introduces Simon Jablon, son of Miss Farrow herself and the force co-responsible for the luxury brand’s new lease on life. As cinematic as finding archives in the dustiest of attics go, Jablon and his then-girlfriend Tracy Sedino (now his wife) had discovered over 2,000 pairs of gorgeous glasses and has never looked back since—at least not without sporting the edgiest eyewear themselves.

Of the headquarters’ convenient location in one of fashion’s main stomping grounds, Jablon comments on the usefulness of having a

shared space for his creative collective to thrive in. “It does help the flow and bonding between departments and people. You’re always more likely to help out when you’re close by others.” However, beyond a culture that actively goes further than its compartmentalized, or rather, departmental set of responsibilities, the brand employs the same frame of mind when it comes to collaborations with folks outside its main headquarters. Having designed for Emilio Pucci, Balenciaga, and Yves Saint Laurent decades before its storied rebirth, Linda Farrow’s inclusive take on eyewear ironically gave it an exclusive appeal to the fashion scene. With a roster of designer collaborations post-rebirth, which includes Alexander Wang, Dries Van Noten, Raf Simons, and The Row, it’s thrilling to see which one of fashion’s wünderkinds will pay Linda Farrow’s “industrial chic” HQ a visit next.

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INSPIRED

HOUSING HERITAGE Art and heritage breathe life into the home of Juana Manahan-Yupangco WORDS DE N IS E F E RN AN DE Z

P H OT OGRAP H Y JIL S ON S E CKL E R T IU

Being a lover of shiny furniture, Yupangco opted for this silver chandelier shaped int the form of elegant swans.

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Much thought has gone into the designing of Juana Manahan-Yupangco’s unit at a high-rise condominium in Bonifacio Global City. Sharing the wide apartment space with her husband and two young children, Yupangco was determined to create her ideal home even before the family purchased one in October of 2014. Having studied art history in college and coming from a bloodline of artists, which includes her architect father Johnny Manahan, surface designer mother Tats Manahan, and product designer sister Lilianna Manahan, Yupangco grew up with a keen eye for design. She tapped interior designer Chat Fores to help her make her vision come to life. “[Fores] knows my entire family has a lot of input, so she was good at managing all of us,” she says with a laugh.

The entire apartment, as Yupangco notes, is a collaborative effort, with each piece passed from family member to family member for strict evaluation, which shows just how involved everyone was in designing the unit. From Chinese prints given by Yupangco’s father to exotic bathroom ornaments purchased in Venice by her mother, no canvas or furnishing was acquired without depth or reason. The intricate wooden flooring, secured by Yupangco’s husband Rick, was entirely cut and carved by hand. Meanwhile, Yupangco herself, a fan of “all things shiny,” opted for white walls throughout the apartment so her

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“My husband Rick fought for these Bang & Olufsen rose gold speakers.

He got them in Hong Kong, when they weren't available here in Manila.�

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Guests are immediately greeted by the sight of art as soon as they step into the receiving area.

chosen furnishings, including silver stainless steel door frames, are able to stand out.

Guests and friends of the Yupangco family are immediately greeted by art in the receiving area—a preview of the living and dining areas, which are adorned with lavish canvases done by artists such as Nikki Ocean, Pipo Alido, Bembol Dela Cruz, and Chati Coronel. Reminiscent of a gallery, the living room’s design may cause guests to lose themselves as they examine the striking pieces displayed, chosen by the couple. Yupangco shares, “[My husband’s] taste is louder and more graphic. Mine is more abstract.”

The rooms of the unit are more eclectic, much especially the lavishness of the powder room, its

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“[MY HUSBAND'S] TASTE IS LOUDER AND MORE GRAPHIC. MINE IS MORE ABSTRACT.”

vanity beautifully framed and hand-carved by Yupangco’s mother. Her efforts continue to be seen in the girls’ room, a pink, vintage-inspired space with walls that she hand-painted herself as well.

Yupangco’s own space, the kitchen, is dominated by minimalist-inspired design and white walls.

While most individuals prefer to have their personal taste filling their home, Yupangco is the opposite. Her abode is bestowed with different elements of her artistically-inclined family members—the very charm of the apartment itself.

A convergence of influences from various family members, almost like an homage to her bloodline, is precisely what makes Yupangco’s place a true home.

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EXPLORED

STRANGE SUMMITS Switzerland plays host to a photographer’s reveling WORDS M E G M AN Z AN O P H OT OGRAP H Y GAB DE L E ON

Exclusive to those averse to the touristic chaos that plagues Italy and France, the sprawling Swiss country remains a mythical sight to behold and perhaps, every so often, conquer. For actor/ photographer Gab de Leon, Switzerland proved to be a haven for his craft, both for when he leaned towards street photography and when he shifted to landscapes. “The thing with landscape [photography] is that I personally like to take my time, and then proceed to take it all in,” clarifies de Leon. With a scene seemingly unruffled by the elements before his lens, it makes absolute sense

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that he feels no urgency to capture an image.

Street photography, however, registers as a more exacting art. After admitting an affinity for candid shots, the lens man points to the streets as the arena for understanding the primacy of a moment. “You really have to keep taking those moments and be quick about it,” warns de Leon. “It is hard at times but I really do enjoy that rush and thrill when I look at my [Fujifilm] X100T and find that I’ve got the exact image that will only happen once.”

Of the gorgeous Swiss landscapes, the photographer suggests heading up to Jungfrau

Alps for a view that hints at the existential. “It’s inspiring to look at but you ought to head up early also just so you don’t risk battling an influx of tourists.” Sitting at around 4,000 meters, the Jungfrau’s considered as one of the top peaks of the Bernese Alps. Although once almost impossible for climbers to conquer, the building of a railway system has afforded natives and tourists alike to venture to nearby passes. “The train ride even gives you a brief history of the men who dug up and built the trail and the tracks heading up the mountain.” Not to be outdone, the descent from

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The view from Grindelwald; Bottom: “In motion.”

Jungfrau allows a lovely opportunity to explore a little Alpine village named Wengen and another charming municipality named Leissigen—home to a century-old house sitting near the lake, perfect once again for an episode or so of contemplation.

“It’s situated right in between Bern and Interlaken so you know the view won’t disappoint.

“It’s a country where everything and everyone seems to be at ease,” continues the photographer on Switzerland’s countless charms. Traipsing through side streets and perching themselves on town square fountains, the country folk easily lends a cinematic aura of to de Leon’s photos—a possible foretelling of the photographer’s dream of one day shifting to the world of filmography. Asked whether the cinematic feel was an aesthetic he always aspired to

CINEMA, DARLING

have, de Leon says, “You’re the fourth person to say that of my photos. It’s nothing intentional—maybe just the result of watching too many movies, somehow there’s a soundtrack playing at the back of my head playing when I press the trigger.”

Like thousands of spots littered across the backpacker’s dream continent, Europe is famous and tremendously fortunate for having so much of its art and architecture preserved. “It would be an injustice to replace those old buildings, cobblestone streets, and wonderful cathedrals for something modern,” muses the lens man. Interestingly, this abundance

An imperative movie to watch (and watch out for) this December

of history running though its little cities, coupled with a vastness of mountain ranges begging to be conquered, make for the most picturesque movie set ready for the taking. Which de Leon did, naturally.

YOUTH (2015)

From the award-winning Italian director Paolo Sorrentino, whose heart-wrenching The Great Beauty (2013) won the Oscar for Best

Foreign Language Film, comes a film designed to once again tackle the theme of aging among other existential thoughts. Ironically

titled Youth, Sorrentino’s narrative follows retired composer Fred

(Michael Caine), on holiday at a luxurious lodge in the Swiss Alps

with his two usual suspects: daughter Lena (Rachel Weisz) and film

director friend (Harvey Keitel). The two old friends deal with their careers

(or looming lack thereof ), nostalgia, and regret.

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EMPOWERED

OFF THE RECORD Fashion writer Jian de Leon talks about New York’s cutthroat publishing industry and growing up Filipino in a white privileged society WORDS ROBE RT CORDE RO P H OT OGRAP H Y JO AN N BITAGCOL

Sportswear is big business. And one of the fashion category’s most respected pundits is Manila-born, New York-based journalist Jian de Leon. De Leon, 30, started working for the Department of Defense after graduating from George Mason University in Washington D.C., but the enterprising FilipinoAmerican eventually found his way into New York’s publishing circle by selling his sneaker collection on eBay for 5,000 USD. Today, de Leon has written some of the most seminal and widely read articles featuring brands from Nike to Stussy for Mr. Porter, GQ, Business of Fashion, and Complex, where he recently became the deputy style editor, overseeing style content for its global audience of 120 million monthly readers. De Leon sat down with RED to discuss his professional journey, what makes a brand successful, and how being a Filipino helps his work.

Where did your interests in sportswear and fashion come from?

I was really into movies and music growing up and saw clothing as a way to express myself. But by the time I was in college [in early- to mid-2000s] there was this movement of men, like myself, who started speaking about clothing in an analytical way, similar to how they would dissect sports or their favorite comic book. For many of us, [the now defunct] Style. com and Men.style.com were access points. You also had the metrosexual, the hipster style movements, which were getting bigger. And guys like Pharrell [Williams] were really coming into their own as style icons and redefined what hip-hop artists should dress like. There were different cultural shifts at play that took men’s fashion further, but the Internet was one of the biggest. It became a way of communicating, becoming a form of entertainment. It allowed men’s fashion to become mass.

How were you able to transition your passion into journalism?

My eureka moment happened when I was in

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college. I was seeing guys writing and talking about style and clothing in a way that I didn’t think you could do. I got an internship at a style magazine and I wrote for local websites in Washington D.C. But my big break was when I started writing [around 2009] for this site called Valet by a former Washington Post editor. I wanted to work for recognizable names to help push myself forward, and at the same time, help empower new design voices that have relevance.

I then started freelancing for Complex magazine.

How did you find your way to New York after college?

I moved out of my parents’ house by selling my sneaker collection and made 5,000 USD, which helped pay for my security deposit for an apartment in New York.

I was already contributing to Complex back home, but five months later, a position opened up as a staff writer—that’s when I moved up to New York. I was at Complex as a staff writer until around 2013, I went over to GQ to be a style writer, and then there was an opportunity to come back to Complex again, this time as a deputy style editor.

What makes a sportswear brand successful today?

You have to know your audience. You have to realize and know what engages people in the Buzzfeed era of content. On one hand, you have a lot of really well-made clothes that don’t have a strong brand.

What’s ironic is that if you have a really strong brand, even though you don’t have the most wellmade clothing, that’s gonna take you farther. We’re also not past the age of celebrity dressing, and [the scene] very much about that today.

What constitutes a bad brand?

The opposite of Hermès. You have to straddle the line between being enigmatic and being accessible.

You also have to have a clear vision.

Who does branding it well?

Aside from Hermès, Supreme is one of the best brands on the planet. Ralph Lauren is up there, too. A good brand is the opposite of a bad apple;

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I THINK ONE OF THE BIG MISTAKES OF MODERN MEN’S FASHION IS THAT GUYS CHANGE AESTHETICS OVERNIGHT.

projects or behind a brand. And then I place their story within the right cultural context.

What is your personal style like?

I veer towards the classic stuff. I think one of the big mistakes of modern men’s fashion is that guys change aesthetics overnight. I’ve been wearing a lot of Levi’s Jeans and I still love sneakers.

everything that it touches is somehow better because it’s associated with it. Kanye West, I think, is also one of the best brands on the planet. West’s own fashion shows have become pop cultural events and any fashion show he goes to is a pop cultural event. He makes you want to sit at his table and that’s what a good brand does.

How has being Filipino influenced your work?

In the sense that I don’t take myself too seriously. If you grow up Filipino-American, you’ll learn how to code-switch a lot. You know how to navigate a variety of situations well. We value where we come from, we value our culture. It’s very much a part of who we are, but it doesn’t necessarily define who we are as much as enrich it.

As a pundit in this space, what does your own personal brand look like?

For me, I operate more in the currency of facts, which is what I try to base my career around. I’m super nerdy about things. I was the type of kid who’d take a pen apart and put it back together just to figure out how it works. I’ll be the first person to tell you I’m not really sure how to build a personal brand. I don’t really have many followers on Instagram or Twitter, but what I do know is how to assemble a good case study. I deconstruct the mystique behind

If you had to give career advice to your 22-yearold self, what would it be?

Don’t be afraid to reach out to people. A lot of people in the media industry are a lot more open than you think. It might take them a while to respond, but reaching out to people can go a lot farther than you think. It’s more flattering to know that someone looks up to you as a role model.

Asian creatives, especially, struggle with thinking of themselves in that way. That’s why I think we are also in a position to empower the next generation.

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