n.93 September 2019
Follow us on
Editorial
D
! t o l a s k Than
ear P&C Reader, for our Staff the last summer was a special season: we published our number 100 of our magazine, a very meaningful finish line, a great step for our job. It deals with a 16 years parkour, which gave us the possibility to promote and tell the Italian pizza with the whole extraordinary world it represents. In the last years we grew up a lot and became a point of reference in the press world concerning food and beverage. The credits of this success are due to you, dear Reader! You followed us issue after issue, you showed us your constant interest. Important credits go also to our partners and sponsors who, since the beginning of this adventure, trusted in our project and helped us to reach this important aim. Together with our first project, that is Pizza&Core, there are also further source of in-
formation, such as the website Ristonews.com and the digital version of P&C, that is Pizza&core International, the English version. The last “borns” in the “Pizza&core family” are the events Pizza&core Exhibit, which will see its third edition starting from the 5th November 2019 in Apulia. We would like to consider this last summer as a starting line, not as a finish line: our mission was and will be that of telling the pizza world with the correct words and the most amazing pictures of your precious job. We wish you to be always our best fans, and hope you to share our magazine, our articles and our photos on your social networks and email address, by diffusing the links of our magazine among your friends, in order to let them know the world of pizza, in the style we use to tell about it. Thank you indeed! Giuseppe Rotolo 3
4
by Marianna Iodice
The European Pizza and Pasta Show is Europe’s largest Pizza and Pasta Show and is the ultimate engagement channel for sellers and buyers in the European pizza and pasta industries. The event matches the interests and needs of this dynamic market and creates unparalleled deep, lasting relationships – providing mutual value for all industry stakeholders. Special guest of the event is Marco Fuso who will be joining EPPS 2019 with the exclusive Master Class on “Pizza Canotto - Making Dough With Biga 100%”. Other famous guests in this new edition: Tony Gemignani, time world’s Pizza Grand Master and Ian Neill Chairman, Hush Hache and K10 Restaurants. Other guest the pizza maker Davide Civitiello (Rossopomodoro). 13th-15th November 2019 – Olympia Center London www.pizzapastashow.com
Host2019 - Milan Design, fashion and visual. Merit to changes of consumer habits and new influences from social media and TV, bread and pastry making has changed at the dawn of the Third Millennium. The bakery and pastry industries are now at the centre of a continuous evolution in a world where bread (including pizza) and pastries are exploring new formats, new technologies and new trends to become more gourmet. This is what visitors to the booths of HostMilano (fieramilano from October 18 to 22, 2019) will be invited to discover. With six months to go before opening, the leading event in the HORECA sector can already count on the presence of 50 countries, for a total of 1,653 companies, of which 949 (57.41 % of the total) are Italian and 704 (42.59 %) international. http://host.fieramilano.it/en/
This year, Cosmofood arrives from 9 to 13 November 2019 (7th edition) at the Vicenza Fair. It is the leading event in the Triveneto area focused on the world of Ho.re.ca., Food-Drink Service, Contract and Retail, to satisfy the overall demand of an audience of enthusiasts and professionals. 400 exhibitors will be present, divided between the Gourmet pavilion (9-12 November) dedicated to enthusiasts and the Food Service pavilion (1013 November) dedicated to professionals in the sector. www.cosmofood.it
5
a cura di M. Iodice
From Naples to Tokyo:
my hard stimulating job
S
imone Ferrara, son of the Ferrara Forni founder, tells us about their particularly famous firm in Italy and the role he represents in it.
Can you tell us about your beginnings? «I’ve helped my father in his job since I was a young boy attending the middle school; during the holidays my father explained and showed me how the ovens were built; that period I only lend him some job tools, it dealt with “look and learn” experience. Then I began also to help my mother to answer to the thousands email (in English!) she received from buyers, customers and dealers, and contemporarily I began to help in the handcraft work, helping in the production section, by doing everything it was required to, from the cutting of 6
iron to the delivery of the products. Today I’m in the office, I take care of the orders, the appointments, the graphic design and so on. I try to learn to do everything, I’m interested in all the aspects of our company. When there is a delivery to do, for the most we are in two: my father and me or a worker and me». How much time do you spend in travelling? «It depends on the periods and on the orders. I had the possibility to visit many foreign countries with my job: I visited the whole Europa but also USA and Japan, which have been our oldest partners and clients countries, for more than thirty years. My granddad Natale was one of the pioneers to export wood ovens and the Neapolitan culture in Japan and Korea.».
Which is your favourite city? «Tokyo, despite its multicultural and metropolitan character, the city preserves its traditional strong mood, that character that really gives you the idea to be in “another world”. Even if they are thousand kilometres far from us, in Japan I tasted Neapolitan dishes and Neapolitan pizzas well done, in my opinion ever better than some Italian restaurants are able to do. It has been possible because of the meticulousness they put into everything they do, that positive characteristic typical of the Japanese people have». What has changed, in your opinion, in the Italian pizza restaurants? «In the past pizza was a “poor” simple dish, you only spent 3 euros to have a pizza delivered directly at home. Today the situation has changed. There is a strong competition among pizzerias, the standards are higher. There are even more “gourmet” pizzas and the pizza restaurants try to present even more new tastes with new ingredients. In the past it only dealt with a simple disk of dough, and the customer didn’t care if it was garnished with tomatoes of the Piennolo or San Marzano, or how many hours it had leavened! ». Which are the differences between the pizza world in Italy and abroad? «the Italian proverb says: “Country you visit, habits you find”: abroad they present pizzas which are the result between the original recipe and the tastes of the local customers, so the tradition is not perfectly respected, also because our ingredients are not available. So, in the
menu abroad, together with the traditional pizzas (Margherita or Marinara) it is possible to find some pizzas which in Italy are not available. In Italy the situation is different, because all the pizza restaurant have at their disposal an infinity of ingredients, so the fight is with “peer weapons”!. The only difference you can find is in the atmosphere you can breathe in a restaurant or in the location, in the outfit, in the “style” the owner would give to his restaurant». Can you give us three adjectives to define you job? «Difficult: because to work with your family is not easy. Stimulating: because I travelled a lot, I met hundred people, I knew different cultures and habits. Meaningful: because we have created a family tradition, a job that my great-grandfather Stefano began decades ago». And three adjectives for the Ferrara Forni trade mark? «Traditional: because we produce oven made according the Neapolitan tradition. Handcraft: because each oven is handmade, without prefab parts, our aim is to build a single piece, completely hand made. Authentic: because we had many opportunities to transfer our company abroad, we continue maintaining our firm in Naples, by using local workers and local raw materials, in order to produce 100% Neapolitan ovens».
Stefano Ferrara Forni S.r.l. - Via Fausto Coppi 3/b - 80010 - Quarto - Napoli - Tel.: +39 081.876.16.64 - www.stefanoferraraforni.it
7
Foto: Alessandra Farinelli (www.pizzaontheroad.eu)
water
B
orn in 1955, Neapolitan, the pizza maker Guglielmo Vuolo has got about 50 years of experience in the field of Neapolitan pizza. During his career he collected a series of successful start-ups, events, Pizza cooking shows, pizza labs and above all billions of work hours concerning the research of new mixes and garnishments. The first time we talked about him in the pages of our magazine, he has just created the Sea Water Pizza, that is a Neapolitan dough prepared with the sea water, that means with the natural percentage of ch-
8
sea fire
From the to the
loride. He caught the attention of many colleagues who tried to use the same “ingredient” in their preparations. It is necessary to underline that the “sea water” is the one for alimentary use, which is microbiologically pure realized by Steralmar in Bisceglie. In 2015 he used the element WATER, now he’s experimenting the element FIRE, that is the flames of the wooden ovens by Stefano Ferrara Forni. In his pizzeria the two ovens look like two burning treasure chests, lightning like golden masterpieces in the pizza restaurant called 4A, the last opening by Vuolo
Foto: Luciano Pignataro
in Margellina (Naples). The restaurant is in one of the most amazing zones of Naples, near the beautiful Posillipo, where you can smell the sea breeze, which gives you energy. Like the pizzas by Vuolo: it is the opinion of his clients, but also food reviewers, journalists and colleagues. The Pizzeria 4A was open where in the past there was the famous restaurant Don Salvatore by Tonino Aversano. The adventure of this new opening was realized by Vuolo with the help Stefano Ferrara: four halls, one hundred seats, a savory artisanal pizza, handcraft beers and a wide range of wines coming from the zone, because in the past there wasn’t any beer to match with pizzas. In his Pizzeria in Margellina, Vuolo follows the rules of the traditional Neapolitan pizza: 00 flour,
with 10% of Type 1 flour; 24 hours of leavening time. The direct dough is the secret in order to get a soft traditional pizza, obviously garnished with local ingredients: the “marinara” represents the tradition, on Fridays he use the “sea water” ingredient in the mix; the Margherita is the queen, with Buffalo mozzarella or Fior di latte mozzarella; then the fried pizza with tomato and provola, a delicious sin for the experts. The mix and the garnishments are “a regola d’arte”, that means following the original recipe and procedure…the cooking time is also important, in particular he chose the baking in the wooden oven, which was a very ancient technique but very recently re-discovered by the Stefano Ferrara Forni, in the bricks of its ovens.
9
Pizza con pesce spada
demetrafood.it
Ingredients • 30 g Swordfish cream by Demetra • 60 g Buffalo Mozzarella • 20 g pitted olives “taggiasche” by Demetra • 50 g carpaccio of swordfish • 7 yellow tomatoes “Datterini” by Demetra Fresh basil • Olive oil aromatised with lemon by Wiberg
Procedure Garnish the disk of pizza with the swordfish cream, the buffalo mozzarella, the tomatoes, olives and bake it. In exit garnish with the carpaccio of swordfish, the lemon oil and the fresh basil.
Demetra is exclusive import company in Italy and France of the products by Wiberg. wiberg.demetrafood.it
1 1
ABSOLUTELY, JUST USE SEMINA: A FLOUR OBTAINED THROUGH A PROCESS THAT PRESERVES THE HEART OF THE WHEAT.
The Ad Store Italia
Every pizza chef has a story to tell that is revealed through his recipes.
It is here, in the vital wheat germ, that the nutritional properties of the seed are found. For this reason, we have studied a milling process that leaves all the wheat’s beneficial properties intact and generates Semina, an extraordinary semi-whole wheat flfrom our with high nutritional Just like Salvatore, Palermo, whosevalues. Try it for your dough, you’ll find the taste character is rustic and genuine. A personality and the fragrance quite exceptional!
that expresses itself through a dough made from a mix of classic 00 flour and Grano Franto, #StorieDiFarina creating pizzas with a strong and decisive flavor – just like him!
www.le5stagioni.it • curtarolo@agugiarofi le5stagioni.it gna.com • +39 049 9624611 • Le 5 Stagioni • curtarolo@agugiarofigna.com ¦ +39 049 9624611
@le5stagioni