n.100 APRIL
2020
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let’s think positive
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he Coronavirus epidemic has overwhelmed Italy, and brought pain and disaster. The famous Covid 19 has deeply affected the habits of Italians: the long confinement, the closed spaces, the social distance, the protective measures have compromised life and relationships, the precious Italian lifestyle, one of the salient features of the eating out. The “blow” is terrible, especially for those who have a restaurant, a pizzeria, a café. This year 2020 will mark a job loss of up to 80%, a drain that has actually put the whole system in crisis. A crisis that has also exploded up in the tourism sector. Hospitality and catering go hand in hand: with the closing of regional borders and fear, tourism, which is one of our strengths, has imploded: millions of cancellations have chased each other. The sector is in a deep crisis. Assoturismo announces that tourist flows will return to those that occurred in the 1960s. A slow recovery only starting from March 2021.
editorialis
Should we be desperate and stay static?! If there is an ability that belongs to the Italians, it is that of “rising again”: whenever they are suffering or cornered, or when difficulties seem to overwhelm them, they are able to find energy to re-born. We have no doubt that after this blow, for the health and for our economy, all Italians and in particular catering operators, will be able to recover after months of great difficulty and heavy economic losses. The eating out sector, the food and wine heritage of our country, our food tradition, our culinary culture, the knowledge of chefs and pizza makers, all these elements together will be the antibodies and the cure to overcome this sudden criticality. “At the end everything will be fine” and if it doesn’t … it means that we are not yet at the end. Therefore, let’s think positive, the virus will pass, the world of catering and pizza will remain. Giuseppe Rotolo
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dalMONDO
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primoPIANO a cura di Giuseppe Rotolo
Year ZERO
Restaurant
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s well as being a serious health emergency, the Coronavirus pandemic has day after day worn down irreparably the country’s economy. Following the decree “I Stay at home”, one of the sectors most affected was the restaurant sector. A long stop that has effectively immobilized a flow of vital liquidity for the entire supply chain. This violent “Tsunami” has damaged catering companies completely unprepared to face a situation as difficult as it is unexpected. The devastating lockdown period, according to FIPE (Italian Federation of Public Exercises), will cost over ten billion in lost proceeds but the number is expected to grow, and a possible recovery in the second half of the year is by no means a foregone conclusion. According to the expert analysts, the prolonged blockage of activities, the significant loss of turnover will irretrievably affect the same number of consumption points that currently are over 300,000 thousand in Italy. But in addition to the serious damage that the emergency has caused, the main concerns are
now for the “after phase”: the summer season appears to be completely compromised, just as it is all to decipher the attitude that the Italian consumers will have in returning to eat out after the Coronavirus. So, what will happen after the pandemic to Italian catering, how many will have the strength to re-open, what kind of catering will we have? Surely, café, restaurants and pizzerias will follow some limitations, some prevention measures, new and more stringent rules aimed at avoiding contacts and crowds. Therefore, in addition to the serious losses due to the long weeks of forced closure, also in the post-Coronavirus the catering sector promises to be very difficult. The premises will have to comply with specific health security measures: greater sanitization of the rooms, adequate ventilation, guaranteeing the distance of one meter between the customers, providing the staff with health protection. Post-Covid-19 customer fears In short words, all this scenery means new costs 5
mondoHO.RE.CA
to manage. But what worries and causes greater uncertainty, will be the behavior of the post Coronavirus consumer: if there is a definitive post-Coronavirus phase, the consumer will be cautious, fearful, worried, suspicious. Sociality is a primary need of the individual and is based on visual contact, relationship, dialogue and the most common place to realize sociality are the public premises. The excruciating doubt is how the post coronavirus consumer will approach this world, how much will he/she be stressed by the previous situation and how much will it affect his choices? The ease of the past cannot be quickly recovered, the metabolization of a trauma requires unspecified times. Authoritative psychologists say that Italians will somehow have to deal with the post-traumatic stress disorder that will certainly condition the attendance of public places, cafÊ, restaurants, pizzerias. After the emergency, the Italians will carry an unremoved Covid-19 negative memory that could inhibit those human contacts that naturally occur in those places. To deal with Covid-19’s tragic blow, restaurants at least initially will have to reduce their costs as much as possible, reorganize themselves, reduce workforce, pay attention to the new and changed needs of consumers who, after the Coronavirus, will inevitably have a suspicious attitude towards restaurants, as well as crowded places. The road to recovery The sector will have to face for a long time a post-war scenery, the foreign tourist will be slow to show up, so it will start again from the Italians. Each sector, from haute cuisine to fast food, will have to re-position themselves with the offer and adapt the management model of the times. For example, haute cuisine restaurants will have to 6
pay particular attention to the containment of costs in order to achieve economic sustainability. In the meantime, almost obsessive attention must be paid to the environmental hygiene safety for the customer. However, there is a certainty: more products made in Italy and less from abroad, and this in the end is certainly good for our local productions. The starting point will almost certainly be linked to the rediscovery of territoriality, a trend which, moreover, was already in place before the crisis. The value of territoriality will also represent a great opportunity for distribution, and for small independent wholesale stores, which will thus be able to exploit their knowledge of the territory and enhance the indigenous products. Furthermore, the crisis will strengthen the green trend that was already underway. In this case too there will be advantages for those operators who will know how to fit in and make the most of the
so-called circular economy which will certainly be a must in the years to come. “It is in crises that come out the solutions and the best ideas,� said a genius like Albert Einstein, in other words hunger sharpens brilliance, the proverbial creativity of the Italians will give a sign of itself: delivery, home deliveries, can be a valid market outlet with a potential not yet fully explored, and then, for what concerns the cuisine, there will be a wide choice of menus that can offer a special mix made of: territory, health, tradition and good taste of the Italian restaurateurs. Food and wine and catering will be able to start again, the bases remain, now you have to take advantage of this period of forced closure to re-organize companies, throw away the unnecessary, practice new technologies, turn the page and prepare for the great and difficult challenge of the post Coronavirus. 7
ilVoltodelleAZIENDE
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ilVoltodelleAZIENDE
The future of baking: new exigencies and new technologies to support professionals
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In Italy, those who deal with bread are since ever considered at the base of our society and, like pizza and many leavened desserts of our tradition, it holds together the nutrition of many families and many people. It cannot be denied that this period of lockdown and of human distances has complicated the management of labs and stores. However, if we want to look on the positive side, we can certainly prepare for the recovery by focusing on new needs, on our production processes and on the available equipment. Here are some suggestions by ESMACH, a company at the service of bread making with solutions for the use of mother yeast. We are living in a particular situation, never lived before. There are many questions and doubts that professionals in the bakery and pizza sectors have shared with each other and with their suppliers. «The requests that have
come to us concern basic, very concrete issues. It’s about how to produce, receive and manage stocks and products, how to satisfy your customers, while maintaining a respectful profile and at the same time treating them with security and positivity»says Paolo Zunino, CEO and General Manager of Esmach. «The baker, the restaurateur and the pizza maker today need to make the best use of their equipment and premises, by focusing on 3 simple objectives: to give their customers a quality product, which should be different and often” espresso “, that means quick; make stocks run better, having limited quantities and using them before they deteriorate; manage peak times, because the requests are concentrated in short time while the demand for delivery of quality products has increased». Undoubtedly, this situation will influence the next future, at organizational and production level, but
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also for what concerns the way of thinking or facing this profession. “This is why our bakers, restaurateurs and pizza makers have already asked for a system that allows them to get raw material of top quality, to minimize operations, times, and stocks”, continues Mr. Zunino. «It will be necessary for all of us to prepare a real “chain”, from the warehouse of the supplier of raw materials, to the table (or the sofa of the customer). Today the key words are speed, quality, minimizing operations and managing stocks, together with constant and continuous improvement to work in a simple fast way, by focusing on quality and service». In the recovery period and in the future of bakeries, pizzerias and restaurants, technology will play a decisive role. «Nowadays, working with bakery products is very different, because the oven has lost its importance, to leave room for excellent doughs, impeccable use of the mother yeasts, preservation of the fresh product up to a moment before cooking. For this reason, today, the only technology that can truly help the job of professionals in the sector is a system that exalts raw materials and natural conservation, and reduces traditional cooking equipment as much as possible, now too large and too expensive in the energy consumption». This difficult situation highlighted the need for flexible and sustainable equipment. «Today more than in the past, equipment must adapt to the customer’s
work and the demand flow that our customer has from his consumers. The rest is an old system that this latest crisis has definitively buried» adds Paolo Zunino. «Esmach has always worked on this system. EsmachLAB for bakers, EsmachLAB Smart for catering and large retailers, EsmachLAB Pizza Model for pizza makers, are the work systems that enhance the raw material, drastically reduce energy consumption and production waste, greatly lower working hours and the need for “overqualified” personnel, bringing operating expenses to levels never seen before in the sector. With Esmach the professional can focus on his business, his customers, on the raw material of excellence. You don’t need to go crazy at night, chasing a few experts on the square, wasting time and resources: today we can work in a simpler way and with quality raw materials and willing staff, even with little or no experience». Mr. Zunino concludes: «If we would like to describe the bakery lab of the future with 3 adjectives, they would certainly be: easy, clever, manageable by willing and serious staff; sustainable, with reduced operating costs, control of the energy consumption, production and warehouses; rich for our consumer, with a qualitatively higher offer, at a lower cost for us and therefore more profitable, in foreseeable and manageable quantities». www.esmach.com
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theTOOLS of the trade
Titolo: Forata. E’ Gi.Metal
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he pizza peel is one of the symbolic tools that is traditionally associated with the pizza maker; here at Gi.Metal we like to say that “our peels have been designed to be the natural extension of the pizza maker’s arm”. In addition to be a definition, this is truly one of our main objectives, so as to provide our pizza chefs friends, not only pizza peels, but also valid allies in their daily work. The pizza peels most appreciated and soughtafter peculiarities are lightness and resistance. The pizza chef constantly prepares many pizzas
a day, having a practical and handy tool at his disposal is highly important, so that to facilitate his work and not to tire him. However, in addition to practicality and lightness, it is of fundamental importance that the pizza peel is highly resistant to high temperatures and easy to clean, a guarantee especially for customers who are offered a product that fully meets all cleanliness requirements. To meet such important and specific needs, there is the exclusive Gold pizza peel, from the Gi.Metal’s Excellence line.
What are you waiting for? buy it visiting https://bit.ly/gimetal_gold
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The advantages of the gold pizza peel Cleanliness. High antibacterial and anti-mold capacity Heat resistance. 3 times greater than anodized aluminum Duration. Greater resistance to corrosion, scratches, impacts and wear Smoothness. Very low friction coefficient Innovative perforation: optimized flour discharge The Gold pizza peel differs from all the others because it is the only one to have the particular treatment of Japanese origin G.H.A., an anodic oxidation with subsequent addition of silver ions, which gives the instrument very high anti-mold and antibacterial performance, in addition to high heat resistance. Laboratory tests carried out according to ISO 22196: 11 and JIS 2801 certifications: 10 have shown that the surface of the instruments treated with G.H.A is bactericidal, in other words, capable of destroying bacteria. The benefits of the Gold pizza peel are not over; the innovative perforation allow to unload excess flour naturally and with exceptional results. The Gold pizza peel has been designed to allow the pizza chef to use a highly technological tool, and at the same time practical and above all safe in terms of cleanliness. gimetal. it 13
gliINGREDIENTIdi
The ideal partner for catering Searching for the best raw materials to develop, produce and sale quality ingredients. Innovation and the pursuit of excellence have always been the main goals of DEMETRA. A continuous improvement to be on every occasion and for any type of pizza and dish, the ideal partner for modern catering professionals. A wide and varied range, hundreds of top-quality products, practical packaging with the highest safety standards: excellence calls excellence, the best pizza chefs choose DEMETRA. So, aim for the TOP with DEMETRA quality, conquer your customers with unique and exclusive fillings, such as the ones we offer in this section.
RED PEARL TOMATOES 100% Italian Fiaschetto red tomatoes, from Apulia, preserved in lightly flavored sunflower oil. Whole skinless and half-dry. They are ideal for the preparation of first courses and delicious pizzas.
YELLOW “DATTERINO� TOMATOES SAUCE 100% yellow datterini tomatoes from the Piana del Sele with a creamy consistency and sweet taste. Very high yield product used as it is, or with the addiction of water. It adapts to any type of pasta dressing, ideal for enhancing the taste of fish second courses and for the preparation of gourmet pizzas. 14
la ricetta
Pizza with yellow datterino tomato sauce, pearls of tomato, stracciatella, Taggiasca olives and basil INGREDIENTS FOR 1 PIZZA 80 g Demetra yellow datterino tomatoes cream 35 g stracciatella 10 Demetra red pearl tomatoes 15 Demetra pitted Taggiasca olives q.s. Wiberg basil q.s. Wiberg basil oil q.s. basil leaves
PREPARATION Stuff the pizza disc with yellow tomatoes cream, add salt, freeze-dried basil, tomato pearls and bake. In exit, complete with pitted Taggiasca olives, stracciatella and garnish with basil oil and a few leaves of fresh basil.
Demetra è importatore esclusivo per l’Italia e la Francia di Wiberg DEMETRA SRL - Via Roma, 751 - 23018 TALAMONA (Sondrio) ITALY Ph. +39 0342 674011 - Fax +39 0342 674030
demetrafood.it
wiberg.demetrafood.it
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ristochef
a cura di Marianna Calderaro
Crispy octopus with turnip tops and lemon-scented ricotta
Teacher, chef, cooking tutorial and gastronomic consultant, Marianna Calderaro is a FIC member, a passionate professional and will handle this new section on Pizza & core collection. Her experience and preparation were formed with the Professional Course at the Eccelsa Institute; participated in professional courses and won competitions; she collaborated with ALICE TV where he carried out cooking tutorials within the television program “Casa Alice�, she also took part in the 7th Edition of Masterchef, working under the guidance of chefs Bruno Barbieri, Antonino Cannavacciuolo, Antonia Klugman. Selected as a teacher by the CEF (European Training Center), she currently works at Masseria Montalbano - Masseria Villaggio of the sixteenth century.
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The octopus (Octopus vulgaris) is a cephalopod mollusk of the Octopodid family. It is present in all the seas of the world, but it prefers warm temperate waters. On the biological side, octopus provides excellent quantities of proteins, it does not contain much cholesterol and the carbohydrates (albeit very scarce) are even higher than fatty acids; these characteristics give the octopus low caloricity. 100 grams of octopus contain: 10.6 g of protein, 1 g of fat, 1.4 g of carbohydrates, 57 Kcal. The content of mineral salts and vitamins is remarkable, in particular: calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, selenium, vitamin C, vitamin B12, vitamin A.
Turnips are the inflorescences of Brassica rapa (subsp. Sylvestris var. Esculenta), a typically Italian vegetable that is grown mainly in Apulia, Lazio and Campania. Their production takes place at low temperatures therefore they are typical of the Autumn-Winter season. Known for their re-mineralizing and detoxifying properties, turnips are rich in minerals: calcium, phosphorus, iron, and vitamins A, B2 and C. These vegetables are also quite rich in proteins. Their folic acid content makes them a particularly useful food in pregnancy. They also have remarkable antioxidant properties and help the body detoxify and purify itself. Finally, the turnip greens are low in calories.
Ingredients for 4 people: Octopus • 800 g of octopus (2 pieces of 400 g) • 2.5 liters of Court Bouillon (2.5 liters of water, 100 g of onion, 100 g of carrots, 100 g of celery, 100 g of white wine vinegar, 15 g of salt, bay leaf to taste, parsley stems, pepper grains, lemon zest).
Turnip tops cream • 1 kg of turnip tops and leaves • 1 clove of garlic • Evo oil • Salt
Ricotta Cream • 220 g of cow’s milk ricotta • 1 lemon • Evo oil • Salt and Pepper 2 dried tomatoes in oil
PROCEDURE Prepare the Court Bouillon by combining all the aromatic ingredients together, then bring to boil and cook the octopus. Let cook over moderate heat for about 30 minutes, let cool. Cook the turnip greens in boiling water, cool with water and ice. Then, heat some oil in a pan and 1 glove of garlic; sauté the turnip greens, let cook for some minutes, blend then with EVO oil, season with salt. Sift the ricotta, whip it with the lemon zest, salt, pepper and put it in a pastry bag. Cut the octopus by dividing it into tentacles, heat a pan with oil, garlic and thyme, sauté the tentacles until they form a golden crust. Serve with turnip tops cream, ricotta cream flavored with lemon and dried tomatoes cut into julienne strips.
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OUR FLOUR, YOUR PASSION FOR CONVIVIALITY.
Whoever seeks the taste of happiness finds La Romana: the mix by Le 5 Stagioni for pizza by the shovel or by the meter, soft and crumbly, characterized by its unmistakable large bubbles. To share the best moments of lightness in good company. Discover your ideal flour on le5stagioni.it
Is brand by Agugiaro & Figna