JT Autumn 2026

NATURAL DIAMOND & FINE GEMSTONE SPECIALISTS Trusted by the New Zealand Jewellery Trade Since 1990

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Publisher/Advertising Debbie Whiting Mobile: 0274 777 955 debbie@inklink.co.nz www.jewellerytime.co.nz

Editor Debra Douglas Mobile: 021 185 6846 chaucer@xtra.co.nz

2026

Jewellers & Watchmakers 19 Edwin Drive, Trent Park, Prebbleton 7604, New Zealand Executive Secretary: Craig Anderson, Phone +64 (0)21 596 988 info@jwnz.co.nz, www.jwnz.co.nz

The official magazine of The Jewellers and Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

Digital Copies Digital copies of our previous four issues are available at www.jewellerytime.co.nz.

CONTENTS

Terms and Conditions Jewellery Time is the official magazine of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

6

Talkback

8

News

24

Town and Around

26

High five

28

Touch Wood

30

Quite white

32

Better than chocolate at Easter

34

We are playing favourites

40

Two stones, one story

42

Jewels, power and history

44

Paul Popa, Bertrand Russell and my father

45

Red carpet creatures

46

Saddle-up and enjoy the ride

48

And the winners are …

52

A year unfolds

54

Homage to nature

56

Goldsmiths Guild of NZ

56

Retailers Review

SPRING 2026 BOOKING, EDITORIAL & NEW PRODUCTS: AUGUST 4 ADVERTISING MATERIAL: AUGUST 11 MAGAZINE POSTED: AUGUST 18

57

JWNZ President’s Report

58

JWNZ Executive Notes

60

Jewellery Industry Registration Board

SUMMER 2026 BOOKING, EDITORIAL & NEW PRODUCTS: NOVEMBER 12 ADVERTISING MATERIAL: NOVEMBER 19 MAGAZINE POSTED: NOVEMBER 26

61

New Products and Services

InkLink Publications Ltd. publishes Jewellery Time on behalf of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated reserves the right at any time and without notice or liability to any party cancel, omit or alter any editorial or advertisement and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and the publisher for all damages or liabilities arising from the published material.

Copyright Reproduction rights in part or full of the contents of this magazine must be obtained with the permission of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and or the publisher.

Disclaimer The views and opinions expressed in this magazine are purely those of the authors and are not necessarily the official views of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated nor those of the publisher.

UPCOMING JT DEADLINES WINTER 2026 BOOKING, EDITORIAL & NEW PRODUCTS: MAY 7 ADVERTISING MATERIAL: MAY 14 MAGAZINE POSTED: MAY 21

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26/01/2026 13:30

TALKBACK Introducing Barnaby White, a 22-year-old apprentice at The Ringmakers in Timaru, who was named the 2025 Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand (JIRBNZ) Apprentice of the Year. Recognised for his dedication and skill, he won the national title by achieving the highest marks in the country for his trade certification test and consistently scoring highly across three stages of correspondence work.

Where do you live? And who do you share your home with?

I live in Timaru with my partner Gina.

When did you first take an interest in the jewellery trade? And what happened next?

My uncle is a jeweller and I’ve always loved making things, so it was always on my mind.

When I got a bit older and decided that I didn’t want to go to university I thought I’d give it a go. I tried it out and I was hooked.

You have completed your apprenticeship at the Ringmakers, Timaru - describe the business; what services does it provide and what does it specialise in?

At the Ringmakers we provide a wide range of services from complex manufacturing to repairs to valuations.

But I would say our specialty is hand manufacturing.

How did you celebrate being the 2025 Apprentice of the Year?

Lots of Indian food.

Who do you work alongside?

I work with everybody at the Ringmakers both downstairs in the shop and upstairs in the workshop.

Ringmakers’ owner, Brent White, in the workshop has been hugely important to my progression, never shying away from giving me complicated tasks and exciting manufacturing opportunities.

Your daily tasks are usually…

Usually I spend the start of my day on general work and then it’s straight into customer designs and manufacturing.

If my week goes to plan, I’ll spend my Fridays on stock manufacturing.

Favourite metal to work with?

Platinum. I like working in platinum for a lot of reasons. Its hard and solder joins are incredibly strong. And it fuses and welds well. You can get platinum to a mirror finish that lasts way longer than white gold. I also like that it’s quite a bit denser than other metals. It makes it a good option for settings.

Preferred type of jewellery to design …

Rings. Most of the jewellery I work on and make are rings, so designing and coming up with new ideas is just a lot easier.

Inspiration comes from where?

Everywhere really. Working with jewellery all day everyday there isn’t a shortage of inspiration. A lot of the time I’m designing around a stone.

That hugely influences the colours and shapes I use.

Who has been your biggest mentor in this industry and what is the best advice they have ever given you?

Definitely Brent. Probably the best single piece of advice he’s given me is to listen and communicate effectively.

What are some of your favourite jewellery design trends right now?

Barnaby White

I like heavier rings with a bit of flow to them.

What do you think are the most important skills a jeweller should have?

Communication, with both customers and co-workers. It doesn’t matter how good the ring is if it’s not what my customer wanted. And concentration, things can go wrong really quickly if you’re not concentrating.

How do you relax away from the bench?

I’ve recently gotten into a bit of tramping, so that’s how I’ve been spending a bit of my spare time lately.

Two things that top your career bucket list?

There’s plenty of things I’d love to make but I’m aware of the fact that I still have a heap to learn. My entire focus at the moment is just to get as good as I possibly can.

If there was one luxury item you would like to buy for yourself today, what would that be?

A Citizen super titanium 'THE CITIZEN' AQ4100-57B.

Rings from Barnaby's bench, from left, Fancy Sapphire & Diamond, London Blue Topaz and Five Diamonds.

6 JT2026 AUTUMN

NEWS CREATIVITY AS A SOURCE OF JOY Often in our busy work lives, with the need to keep things moving forward, we can lose our focus on some of the finer things that bring a sense of joy and satisfaction. This is why I set out to recreate that feeling of quiet creative reflection once again, by working through the process of making something challenging.

To see an object in mind and then to bring that forward to a threedimensional object is really the essence to discovering the pleasure in the creative process.

Weighing in at 400 grams it was rather a long 50-hour process and

original in all aspects, i.e. nothing to follow or copy. Some parts were cast from wax work and the spout folded up from green wax and cast. The soldering was all done with a mini torch melting tip and had a very satisfying result.

I feel if you are an up-and-coming craftsman, don't be afraid to extend yourself into that realm of the unknown and dig deep for good ideas and experience that feeling of true satisfaction.

“A man who works with his hands is truly free”.

- Geoff Taylor, Cambridge

FROM THE BIRTH OF THE MODERN DIAMOND INDUSTRY

An extremely rare relic from the earliest years of the Kimberley diamond rush - a rough stone, still embedded in kimberlite - has sold at auction in London for US$14,000.

It dates back to the New Rush at Colesberg Kopje (now better known as the Kimberley mine), in South Africa that began when diamonds were first discovered there in 1871. Furlong Auction House, at the London Diamond Bourse, in Hatton Garden, included it in a collection of "rare and highly desirable items across jewellery history" in its Collectables & Memorabilia auction in January.

8 JT2026 AUTUMN

"This hand specimen of kimberlite ("blue ground") contains a visible natural diamond crystal embedded in the matrix and retains its original manuscript presentation label dated May 23rd, 1873," it said in the lot notes. "The handwritten note - both on the specimen itself and on a later transcribed slip - reads: "Rev'd W. Thompson - A token of esteem from the Cong'l Church, De Beers New Rush, May 23, 1873. M.M.S., Sec'y."

Labelled geological specimens from this period are scarce; examples retaining a visible diamond crystal are almost never encountered outside institutional collections.

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NEWS MELBOURNE FAIR HIGHLIGHTS

The Jewellery Industry Fair (JIF) organisers have the weekend planned ready for visitors to the Royal Exhibition Building, Melbourne venue, March 14th & 15th. Check out some of the Fair highlights below:

Platinum Workshop - With Platinum Guild International Friday 13th March This full day workshop will leave you with tools and information to strengthen platinum sales and performance. You're invited to this

focused workshop with the team from Platinum Guild International.

Melbourne Polytechnic Awards and Summer Social Saturday 14th March - from 5pm At the JIF Summer Social, see the latest graduates from Melbourne Polytechnic as they are presented with their awards. Enjoy the chance to catch up with friends and colleagues at the best networking event in Melbourne!

Women in Jewellery - High Tea Sunday 15th March 12pm - 1:30pm The Women in Jewellery High Tea returns with special guest Kate Bishop, co-founder of Diamond Collective and Kate Bishop Consulting.

The team from Fair sponsor Palloys: Back Row (L-R) Ben Pearce, Alan Lusty, Nathan Ball, Conrad Dsouza, Richard Ashman, Tolga Capanoglu. Front Row (L-R) Su Yang, Sophie Kim, Sumaya Klank, Nancy Khao, Sasha Kirjanova.

A SPIRITUAL STORY TELLER

Italian designer Alessio Boschi's Jubilee Ring won Best in Icon – One-of-a-Kind Jewellery at the VO Awards, Vicenzaoro 2026.

Inspired by the Catholic Holy Year, the ring features seven doors opening to Rome's major basilicas, each revealing Christian martyr relics.

The micro mosaic of St. Peter's dome symbolising faith, renewal, love and unity through intricate design and

10 JT2026 AUTUMN

precious stones.

Combining elements from ancient Rome, Renaissance art and early Christianity, the materials used to craft the Jubilee Ring include diamonds, tsavorites, Paraiba tourmalines, white quartz, emeralds, sapphires and Tahitian pearls, impactite Libyan glass, enamel and Egyptian blue and walnut ink pigments.

To register for these events go to: www.jewelleryindustrysummit.com, or for more information: info@jewelleryindustrynetwork.com

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact: Helen Finlayson - The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact: Helen Finlayson - The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

L AB DIAMONDS

BY DGA

JT2026 AUTUMN 11

NEWS ACKNOWLEDGING CRAFTMANSHIP

John and Jenni Franich with the certificate taking pride of place at John Franich Jewellers.

Surprise! Peter Cameron is congratulated by family and friends.

Christmas was a time of peer recognition for two longstanding members of the trade; John Franich, of John Franich Jewellers, Westgate, Auckland and Peter Cameron (who sold Cameron Jewellery, Palmerston North, to daughter Jessie Cameron and manufacturing jeweller Sam Drummond in 2022) when they were presented with their Trade Certified Master Manufacturing Jeweller Certificate.

For both men the presentation event in front of VIP customers and family was a complete surprise.

“John was surprised and overwhelmed, grateful and appreciative of the recognition,” said his wife and business partner Jenni.

And Jesse Camerons aid it was awesome to present her father with the award with so many long-time customers present, some of whom had been buying his pieces for more than 40 years.

When Peter Cameron left NZ as a young apprentice to work in Hatton Garden, London’s diamond district, he was considered a ‘jobbing jeweller’ because he had no formal qualifications.

“The people I worked with were very highly qualified and so this, to be recognised in my own country, is fantastic.”

Peter opened his first Palmerston North store at Square Edge in 1984 and established a career and reputation built around his artistry and preference for unique hand-crafted pieces over mass-market items. Peter said the store was his and wife Jill’s legacy and he was extremely proud of what their successors were achieving.

“They've taken on another apprentice, which is fantastic. And over the years, I've probably had about nine apprentices. So, we’ve trained a lot of people over the years, which I'm very proud of too.”

John Franich’s journey in the industry started in the 1960’s.

John: “At that time when you left school you went to see a vocational guidance officer to figure out a career.

This one was based on Customs Street, central Auckland. He walked me through town and after telling him my brother was a hand-engraver, he took me into Cliff Garvie at Garvie Jewels in Randolph St, Newton.

“I introduced myself to Cliff Garvie and we only spoke for about five or 10 minutes before he said: ‘I’ll offer you a job and I’ll pay you twice as much as what you are getting now.’ So that was that I decided there and then and here I am 60 years later.

“In 1970 that we registered John Franich Jewellers and then in 1992 Jenni and I decided to take the giant leap and open up a retail store on Henderson’s main street. Like many trades, and in particular one so specialised as jewellery, there’s a community of crafts persons, retail store owners and suppliers and manufacturers who get to know each other over time. These people have remained our support network throughout our time in the jewellery trade and we are grateful for their support.”

In 2009 John and Jenni accepted the opportunity to expand and relocate to Westfield WestCity and then across to their current location, in The Northwest Shopping Centre, where John continues to make bespoke pieces for customers.

JWNZ SPRING TRADE FAIR Sunday 13th September, 9.30am to 4.30pm Viaduct Events Centre, Auckland info@jwnz.co.nz www.jewelleryfair.co.nz 12 JT2026 AUTUMN

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NEWS IT TAKES TWO

Organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), the 12th Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show and the 42nd Hong Kong International Jewellery Show continues its successful ‘two shows, two venues’ format. The twin exhibitions will run from 2 to 6 March at AsiaWorld-Expo and from 4 to 8 March at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, and provide a world-class exhibition platform for the jewellery industry.

Under the theme “Fusion of Dazzling Beauty”, the two trade fairs will bring together some 4,000 exhibitors from more than 40 countries and regions to create the world’s largest one-stop jewellery marketplace. Exhibits will include jewellery collections from renowned brands, gold jewellery, affordable luxury jewellery, men’s jewellery, as well as various forms of diamonds, gemstones, pearls, and raw materials.

The World Gold Council will, for the first time, set up a Hard Pure Gold Pavilion at the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show. Several Chinese Mainland enterprises will present this innovative gold category to the international market to explore global opportunities. A series of seminars and forums will also be held during the exhibitions to

BERRY BERRY ROTTEN

An oversized sculpture of a berry constructed in part with gemstones was displayed in artist Kathleen Ryan’s ‘Souvenir’ exhibition at the Karma gallery in Los Angeles. Ryan is an artist known for her gemstone-studded rotting fruit sculptures.

FOUND!

The Florentine Diamond, a 137.27ct yellow diamond believed lost for more than a century has been located in a Canadian bank vault. Formerly part of the Habsburg crown jewels, the stone disappeared from public view after the First World War. According to members of the Habsburg family, the diamond’s whereabouts were deliberately kept secret at the request of Empress 14 JT2026 AUTUMN

help industry players stay abreast of market trends and developments.

Hong Kong International Jewellery Show: www.hktdc.com/event/hkjewellery/en Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show: www.hktdc.com/event/hkdgp/en

The seven-foot piece titled ‘Dreamhouse’ depicts a rotting raspberry, with its still-good flesh made of magenta plastic beads and its mouldy bits composed of blue and green gemstones and turquoise. Its receptacle is hollow, resembling a cave with glittering crystal stalactites and stalagmites.

In all, ‘Dreamhouse’ is made with malachite, azurite, lapis lazuli, amazonite, aventurine, turquoise, chrysocolla, magnesite, howlite, amethyst, garnet, serpentine, quartz, chalcedony and quartz stalactite, fluorite, coral chalcedony, zeolite, larimar, sodalite, calcite, acrylic, steel, aquaresin, stainless steel nails and steel pins on coated polystyrene.

“The sculpture is not just opulent, there’s an inherent sense of decline built into it … which is also something that’s happening in the world,” said Kathleen Ryan. “The economy is inflating, but so is wealth inequality, all at the expense of the environment. Though the mould is the decay, it’s the most alive part.”

Zita, the wife of Emperor Charles I of Austria-Hungary, who asked that its location remain undisclosed for 100 years after his death in 1922. While the family has stated there are no plans to sell the diamond, its resurfacing has reopened questions of ownership, with Austrian authorities announcing a review to determine whether it should be considered state property.

NEWS TWO BIG BLUES

Petra Diamonds has uncovered a 41.82ct. blue diamond at the famed Cullinan mine in South Africa, and experts say it’s poised to become one of the most important blue gems ever found.

A Petra statement said the type IIb

diamond is of “seemingly exceptional quality in terms of both its color and clarity.” The company added that it was “in the process of analysing the stone and ascertaining the preferred method of sale.”

The Cullinan has already produced several famous blues, including the 12.03ct. Blue Moon of Josephine, which garnered a then-record US$48.5 million at auction in 2015 and the 15.1ct. De Beers Blue, which topped that by fetching US$57.5 million in 2022.

Meanwhile Bonhams presented its much-anticipated New York Jewels auction in December showcasing a curated selection of exceptional pieces from leading fine-jewelry houses including Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, David Webb, René Boivin, Verdura, Buccellati and Van Cleef & Arpels.

The final sale of the season achieved remarkable results, with a total of over US$5M.

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Leading the sale was an important sapphire and diamond ring, centering a cushion-shaped ‘royal blue’ sapphire of Kashmir origin, weighing 6.92cts.

The Kashmir sapphire set within an openwork mount accented by two emerald-cut diamonds weighing 2.34 and 2.62cts respectively, sold for US$1,016,500, over three times its presale estimate of US$300,000-500,000.

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NEWS COLLARED

Jacob & Co.’s new Bandana Royale is an eye-popping piece of jewellery.

The 200+ ct. collar necklace made for K-pop star G-Dragon has as its pièce de resistance a 5.4ct fancy yellow round brilliant-cut diamond at its centre.

G-Dragon considers the daisy a symbol of his creativity and the South Korean singer and rapper aka Kwon Ji-yong wears a bandana in most of his videos.

In total, 209.71cts of gemstones are set in 18ct yellow gold on the Bandana Royale. Here’s the breakdown: 94.34cts white diamonds, 44.76cts canary yellow diamonds and 54.6cts of emeralds, rubies, sapphires (orange, pink, blue, purple, and yellow), tsavorites, red and pink spinels and paraiba tourmalines.

Plus, there are 10.6cts of those stones in melee.

A TIMELY WAISTBAND

The core piece in the collection is the TRG Automatic, a skeleton-dial masterpiece powered by a Japanese automatic movement.

Seen at the Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2026 womenswear presentation in January was the maison’s historic LV I timepiece making an exclusive appearance on the runway staged at the Musée du Louvre.

Originally created in 1988, when the house commissioned Italian designer Gae Aulenti to craft two signature watches, the LV I and LV II marked

FROM THE ROAD TO THE WRIST

A HEAVYWEIGHT FIRST

Aston Martin has unveiled its first ever Watches and Jewellery Collection, developed in partnership with the Timex Group.

Two representative pillars hold up the collection: ‘Timeless’ and ‘Icon’. The first is a capsule of vintage-inspired watches honouring Aston Martin’s heritage, while the second positions the collection as a modern luxury range that reflects the marque’s sleek contemporary profile.

Aston Martin’s automotive designs are reflected in the use of materials such as titanium, carbon fibre and silicone straps. Other physical details have been included, from stitching patterns that match the brand’s car interiors, to a wheel rim-shaped dial.

18 JT2026 AUTUMN

LB Jewellers, London, has debuted a fully solid 3.2kg diamond-cut rope chain, a piece that breaks historical precedent in rope chain design. While rope chains have been popular for decades - especially the hollow, twisted designs, nothing of this size, weight, or craftsmanship has ever existed.

Unlike the traditional heavy rope chains which used the classic hollow spiral structure, Lamar Berko who founded LB Jewellers in 2013, built the piece with a modern diamond-cut architecture, featuring flat reflective surfaces.

The chain took almost two months to design, engineer, and hand-finish. Most heavyweight chains at this scale cannot be produced solid; the structural stress,

The Bandana Royale weighs just over 559 grams.

Louis Vuitton’s first real foray into watchmaking. Nearly four decades later, the LV I has returned in arresting fashion, featured within the Spring Summer 2026 collection worn on a chain belt.

The 18ct yellow gold timepiece measures 40mm and features hours, minutes, seconds, retrograde date, moon phase, GMT and 24 time zones. metal density and precision required make it nearly impossible.

Lamar Berko models his extraordinary chain.

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NEWS THE WATCH LORD NELSON LEFT AT HOME When Sotheby’s closed its Fine Watches online auction in London late last year, the Victory Watch made by James McCabe and presented to Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson by the officers of HMS Victory sold for £152,400, below the low estimate.

The price was unexpected for an object with an unusually intimate Nelson provenance: a gift from his officers that belongs to Nelson’s last weeks on land, before his victory and death at the Battle of Trafalgar and to the choice he made to keep the watch

at home.

The watch itself is a striking example of early 19th-century craftsmanship, featuring ornate rope-twist decoration set with split pearls, enamel roundels, multiple registers including calendar, alarm, and seconds and a movement that plays two melodies on six bells and 11 hammers. A pierced case allows the sound of the melodies to be heard when opened, demonstrating both technical innovation and artistic refinement.

The case bears the presentation inscription, “Pres. to Adml. Lord Nelson By the Officers of HMS Victory Aug 20 1805.

PUSHING THE LIMITS OF WATCHMAKING

Vacheron Constantin celebrated 270 years with an ambitious astronomical clock.

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Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 270th anniversary with a most ambitious creation: La Quête du Temps. This astronomical clock, seven years in the making, contains 6,293 components and 23 complications; embodying the maison’s quest to push the confines of watchmaking.

The clock features a dome housing a mechanical automaton of an astronomer. Driven by 158 cams, the figure performs 144 distinct gestures, including raising an arm to indicate the time on a celestial dial, accompanied by music composed by French singer song-writer Woodkid. Its complications include a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, sunrise and sunset times, zodiacal indications, retrograde displays and a 110-year precision moon phase.

Inspired by this one-of-a-kind piece, Vacheron Constantin has also created the Métiers d’Art – Tribute to the Quest of Time wristwatch. Limited

JUST BLOWING IN THE WIND

Mikimoto presents Les Pétales, a selection of 40 pieces, notably bold necklaces with irregular arrays of hollow petals caught in an imaginary, fluttering breeze. A standout piece has eight strings of Akoya cultured pearls, which are said to embody the ‘ebb and flow’ of the wind, dusted with diamond-set petals that wrap over the shoulders and collarbones. Accents come in the form of pink morganites, including a large gem nestled into the blooms on one side of the piece.

A pair of earrings with white South Sea cultured pearls and diamonds, also in 18ct white gold, complete the set. to 20 numbered pieces, it’s equipped with the new manual-winding Calibre 3670, comprising 512 miniaturised components and protected by four patents. This double-sided watch offers astronomical complications, double retrograde displays and two distinct display modes, paying tribute to the clock while remaining wearable.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Quest of Time watch.

CITY LIFE TIME ZONE

Citizen has drawn inspiration from Japanese cityscapes with its latest additions to its Series8 collection; the three limitededition models reflecting the spirit of city life, from dawn to night The NB6035-55H calls upon the illumination of city lights and fallen snow on the asphalt. A gradient moving from white to black on the dial gives a frosty but stylish feel, while the gold-coloured accents on the bezels and indices ‘maintain an essence of luxury’.

The NB6060-58H switches to dawn, inspired by the shadows of skyscrapers as the day creeps in. A geometric pattern on the dial and its silver colour is intended to convey a sense of calm and sophistication.

Differing to the other two, the NB6062-52P goes for gold.

The third edition in the series represents the city at night with its twinkling lights, but continued sense of sophistication and luxury.

From left, NB6062-52P, NB6035-55H, NB6060-58H.

TANZANITE AND TURQUOISE BY TIFFANY

Tiffany & Co has unveiled a new jewellery collection, Bird on a Rock by Tiffany, reimagining Jean Schlumberger’s iconic Bird on a Rock motif. The collection includes two high jewellery suites, one is centred around tanzanites, the other celebrates turquoise.

The tanzanite suite features a necklace, bracelet and earrings, whereas the turquoise suite is anchored by a statement necklace featuring a diamond bird that appears to grasp strands of cabochon turquoise, accented with gold and diamond feathers throughout. The piece culminates in a cabochon turquoise drop. The suite also includes a pendant, brooch and ring.

JT2026 AUTUMN 21

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NEWS KEEPING THE STORY ALIVE

GOOD AS GOLD

An extraordinary coin, never intended for everyday use was presented at a Geneva auction late last year by Numismatica Genevensis SA. This imposing piece, a Centén, or 100 escudos, was struck in Segovia in 1609 and created to showcase to all the power and wealth of the Spanish kingdom. Never has the expression “worth its weight in gold” been more fitting, over 339 grams of gold were required to produce this exceptional coin. A masterpiece crafted by Spain’s most skilled engravers, it remains to this day a testament to the former grandeur of the Spanish Empire.

The coin sold for US$3.487.044, thereby becoming the most expensive European coin ever sold at auction in recorded history.

SMART BUT CASUAL

Late last year the first edition of the Monaco Grand Prix de Haute Joaillerie

The necklace is made of white gold, platinum, diamonds, onyx and 11 emeralds, totalling 37.18cts. © Chanel 22 JT2026 AUTUMN

A gold pocket watch recovered from the body of a heroically romantic Titanic passenger has shattered the price record for Titanic memorabilia, selling for £1.78 million at auction.

The 18ct gold Jules Jürgensen timepiece, the headline lot in Henry Aldridge & Son’s maritime-themed sale. belonged to American business magnate and co-owner of Macy’s department store, Isidor Straus, who perished with his wife, Ida, after she

famously refused a spot on a lifeboat, declaring, “As we have lived, so will we die together.” The couple was last seen on deck, arms linked, as the ship sank into the freezing Atlantic on April 15, 1912.

The watch had been recovered from Isidor’s body during the dark days following the ship disaster and was returned to the Straus family, where it remained for over a century before coming to auction.

Isidor Straus’ watch is inscribed with the date he received it as a birthday gift from his wife, Ida, February 6th, 1888.

opened, organised by the Société des Bains de Mer and held in the Salle des Étoiles at the Sporting Monte-Carlo.

An independent jury, led by Fabienne Reybaud, an expert in contemporary fine jewellery and composed of international experts, awarded Chanel the supreme trophy against ten other Houses.

Chanel paid tribute to its founder Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel, who popularised the sporty, casual chic look, with The Sweater Prestige necklace. Inspired by sweatshirts and drawstrings on sportswear its modular and flexible construction incorporates visible connection systems, quickrelease fasteners and the ‘sports cord’ specially developed by Chanel. This transformable piece, consisting of a necklace and a pair of earrings, can be worn with or without emeralds.

DESTINATION ISTANBUL

Organised by Informa Markets, the 59th Istanbul International Jewelry, Gold, Silver, Precious Stones and Technologies Fair will take place at the Istanbul Expo Centre April 01-04, 2026, bringing together thousands of professionals from the jewellery industry.

One of the top five international jewellery fairs in the world and the largest fair in the region, it features more than 1,300 brands, showcasing diamonds, gold, watches, and machinery. The event also offers unique information sharing and business opportunities to all jewelry professionals from Eastern Europe to the Near East, from Russia to North Africa and from CIS countries to the Middle East. info@istanbuljewelryshow.com, www.istanbuljewelryshow.com

PAIHIA

TOWN AND AROUND Meet Fiona and Rex Wilson, owners of GoldnGifts, Paihia. As told by Fiona…

Tell us about your backgrounds in the industry; when did it all start and why choose the jewellery, watch and giftware industry as a career?

We began working for my parents in their two stores during the busy Christmas seasons on our return from travelling each year for about six years during Rex’s running career. When they decided to sell Crawfords Jewellers in Tokoroa we made the call to stop travelling and base ourselves there moving from Boston, USA, to Tokoroa. This also gave Rex many kilometres of forestry roads to train on and a great supportive community.

What led up to you opening GoldnGifts? And when did that happen?

We were on holiday in Northland at Matauri Bay, about 50mins north of Paihia, which is still our favourite place to camp. After visiting Paihia during our camping holiday among other awesome beaches in the area we decided to move and GoldnGifts was born. This is now more than 30 years ago. We retained the store in Tokoroa with Tracey Molyneaux managing it before she went on to open her own store in Tauranga.

don’t find in the chain stores. We found this helps to capture a more diverse group of people who purchase from our range of jewellery and watches. This year our selection includes Kiwiana artwork and homewares, Britto collectible ornaments and a small collection of leathergoods.

Your jewellery and watch brands include…

We are stockists of Casio, Citizen, Daniel Wellington, Obaku, Sekonda, Olympic and Jag watches. We have just put Jag into our range this season and it is doing really well.

As well as many unbranded unique jewellery pieces we stock Couer de Lion, Ellani, Ania Haie and Najo.

Have you always been in the same location?

We were initially on a lesser foot-trafficked area in Paihia, but over a number of years talking to the previous tenant of our present location we managed to relocate, which gave us a better more visible premises.

What are your best-selling pieces? For example, what was most popular for Christmas gift giving?

Earings always seem to be a winner as people are always losing one or damaging them. There is no such thing as too many pairs is there?

You are described as a ‘small eclectic gift store’ – so what greets visitors when they walk in the door. What will they see on your shelves?

Our range evolves each year by putting together the information from our sales data and listening to what people are looking for. We endeavour to find interesting pieces of home décor, ornaments or novelty ornaments that domestic visitors

What other services does your business offer, i.e. repairs, engraving…

Rex has built up a great engraving service over the years which now includes laser engraving as well as traditional diamond drag. We have a solid base of small repairs from watchstrap and battery replacements to simple jewellery jobs instore and outsource the larger jobs.

Fiona and Rex Wilson.

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Who do you work alongside?

We have a small team of two other regular employees - Glenda who has been with us for just over a year and is our fulltime salesperson and Lynda who has been with us for many years and keeps trying to leave or retire, but we won’t let her. Our other two wonderful helpers are Teresa, a previous full-time salesperson and Leanne, new to us this year who we call on in times of need. Due to the 7-day trading this enables everyone to enjoy the great lifestyle you can enjoy in this beautiful area.

Your customers are mostly locals? or tourists? or does this depend on the time of the year?

Yes, our customers do vary because of it being a tourist destination for international and the domestic market, but we have a great base of loyal customers who live locally or visit the area regularly. There are many holiday homes that are used particularly during the summer months belonging to people all over NZ and beyond. Many of these homes are now used as their primary home as they can now work remotely.

Tell us about a customer story that you're most proud of…

We recently helped a local Dad find a beautiful diamond pendant to give to his daughter as a graduation gift. It was so nice to see how happy he was presenting it to her as a very proud father and knowing from her reaction that she loved it and would be something to cherish from him.

What keeps you motivated about the business?

People. Helping them choose the right things for themselves or someone else and seeing them leave the store happy with their purchase.

We understand Rex represented New Zealand in the marathon at the 1992 Olympics in Barcelona and ran at three Commonwealth Games. Is he still running long distances? And as a volunteer fireman in the area for more than 30 years, is he still involved with the Fire Service?

He no longer runs, but is still very active keeping fit walking and mountain biking. As the Chief of the Paihia Volunteer Fire Brigade this also involves a different type of fitness to keep his team and himself safe for all that they do.

How do you both relax in your spare time?

We both enjoy walking, mountain biking in our local Bike Park and fishing.

Best thing about living in Paihia?

It is a great supportive little town and we love that we are so close to the sea. It offers great walks and beaches, all the things we love.

Where do you spend your summer holidays?

We continue to go camping at Matauri Bay each year. It has a beautiful sandy beach with crystal clear water and great fishing.

There are also so many other beautiful places to visit just a day trip away, or a few nights without going far. We enjoy going to the city for a while, but really enjoy coming home to this special place.

What is on your bucket list for 2026?

We are planning a winter escape to Portugal before the next summer season.

JT2026 AUTUMN 25

High five Louis Vuitton has announced the five finalists for the second edition of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, which supports innovation in high-end watchmaking. The 2025-2026 edition attracted a strong number of entries from independent watchmakers around the world, reflecting growing interest in the prize and in independent horology.

From the initial submissions, 20 semi-finalists were selected and reviewed by a committee of experts made up of 65 watch enthusiasts, industry professionals and collectors.

Each project was evaluated on five criteria: design, creativity, innovation, craftsmanship and technical complexity.

The finalists will present their projects on 24th March at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris. The winner will receive a €150,000 grant and a one-year mentorship at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, tailored to their individual needs. A dedicated team will support the winner in multiple aspects, including communication, copyright and corporate legal aspects, as well as marketing, industrial strategy and the financial management of a brand.

The five finalists are:

Veteran independent Bernhard Lederer is a finalist with the CIC 39 Racing Green, which features a fully functional dual detent escapement and twin remontoirs (small, secondary power source) for constant force delivery.

26 JT2026 AUTUMN

Japan-based Daizoh Makihara Watchcraft was selected for its one-of-a-kind Beauties of Nature watch, which combines a complex petal mechanism, dual time displays and a perpetual moon phase with traditional Edo Kiriko cut-glass techniques.

Fam Al Hut, founded by Xinyan Dai, reached the final with the Möbius, a compact manual-wind watch featuring a bi-axis tourbillon and a mechanical jumping hour combined with double retrograde displays.

Quiet Club, led by Norifumi Seki, was selected for the Fading Hours, a Tokyomade watch featuring an in-house movement and a unique alarm that strikes the dial itself.

Hazemann & Monnin were chosen for their School Watch, powered by the in-house HM01 calibre, which combines a passing strike with an instantaneous jumping hour in a 39.5mm case.

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Touch wood Wood adds warmth and an organic feel to jewellery and sourced ethically and sustainably, is a beautiful reminder of the preciousness of our trees. Featured are pieces from international designers who use wood sustainably sourced and in very small quantities.

From Brazilian Fernando Jorge’s Deep Stream collection, the smooth curves of Amazonian Red Louro wood are set in 18ct yellow gold for an organic, flowing design.

Adorned with 10.13cts of pear-cut brown diamonds to add warmth. The wood was supplied by an NGO (Non governmental organisation) working to foster sustainable use of the Amazon’s nature resources and some of the proceeds from this collection will go to support their work.

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Part of Kinraden’s Two Worlds collection, blending Danish design with ethical craftsmanship. Crafted from recycled 18ct gold and sustainably sourced Mpingo blackwood from an FSC-certified forest in Tanzania. The sleek 1.4cm pendant is paired with a 50cm chain for a minimalist look.

An ebony Chinese pendant by French jeweller Marie Lichtenberg in striking yellow gold features a dragon with pear-cut ruby eyes and a white pearl in its claws. Intricate engravings frame the pendant, with an additional pear-cut ruby adorning the back.

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2026 O U T N OW

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Quite white The self-described colour authority, Pantone, has selected Cloud Dancer (11-4201) as its Colour of the Year for 2026. With the flowery language Pantone typically uses to describe its choices, the Institute says of the colour…

“Cloud Dancer is a lofty white whose aerated presence acts as a whisper of calm in a noisy world. A billowy and ethereal hue, Cloud Dancer is a conscious statement of simplification in a frenetic society rediscovering the value of measured consideration and quiet reflection.

“Similar to a blank canvas, Cloud Dancer signifies our desire for a fresh start, opening up space for creativity and allowing our imagination to wander so that new insights and bold ideas can emerge and take shape,” it adds.

This is the first time Pantone has chosen a white in the 26 years it’s been making these annual picks. The shade follows predecessors Mocha Mousse, Peach Fuzz, Viva Magenta and Very Peri.

The Pantone Color Institute’s 2026 Colour of the Year is not really a colour at all.

Tag Heuer: Aquaracer steel and white ceramic.

Omega: Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional 42.

Zenith: Defy Diver 42.5.

Panerai: Sumersible ref. PAM02223.

Rado: True Square Automatic Open Heart 38.

Timex: Automatic 1983 E-Line 34.

30 JT2026 AUTUMN

Aera: C1- Cloud 42 Automatic.

Make time yours.

Fears: Brunswick 38 Polar White.

Grand Seiko: Spring Drive ‘Snowflake’.

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JT2026 AUTUMN 31

Better than chocolate at Easter Fabergé’s Winter Egg, considered one of the most beautiful creations by the legendary jeweller of Imperial Russia, smashed records by fetching NZ$52.7m at Christies auction house, London, late last year.

Ordered by Russia’s Tsar Nicholas II for his mother, Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna, in 1913, it is considered the most technically and artistically inventive egg commissioned by the Imperial family and had a pre-sale estimate price of more than NZ$46.1m.

The egg was designed by Alma Theresia Pihl at the age of 25. Alma was the daughter of Oscar Pihl, the Finnish master of Fabergé's Moscow workshop and one of the few women who worked with Fabergé. She was inspired by the fleeting beauty of watching ice crystals form on a pane of glass while looking out the window on a winter day.

The egg is carved from rock crystal

and mounted with platinum and 4,500 rose-cut diamonds that form a realistic pattern of snowflakes. Inside is a basket of platinum from which bloom wood anemones intricately carved from white quartz, symbolising the arrival of spring and rebirth after winter. Alma went on to become one of Fabergé's star designers behind the house's most remarkable eggs and in 1914 designed The Mosaic Egg which is now in The Royal Collection in the United Kingdom.

Fabergé created 50 Imperial Easter Eggs for Russia’s then-ruling Romanov family over a 31-year period, making them incredibly rare and valuable. They were commissioned as Easter gifts in a

The famous 1913 Fabergé Winter Egg, which is considered to be the greatest of the 50 glittering Easter eggs created for the Russian royal family.

The first Imperial Fabergé Egg was commissioned by Tsar Alexander III for his wife as a gift. Known as the 1885 Hen Egg, it was crafted from gold and its opaque white enamelled shell opened to reveal a matt yellow gold yolk, which in turn opened to reveal a superb gold hen.

The Fabergé Caucasus Egg, presented by Tsar Alexander III to his wife, Tsarina Maria Feodorovna, for Easter 1893.

In 1898 Tsar Nicholas II presented Empress Alexandra with this Fabergé Lilies of the Valley Egg. Made of gold, overlaid with translucent rose-pink enamel, the beautiful creation is decorated with enamelled green leaves and pearls, complete with rose-cut diamond dewdrops.

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tradition started by Tsar Alexander III in the 1880s. His heir Nicholas II had an annual standing order for two Easter Eggs to be made for his mother and his wife, until the fall of the Romanovs in the 1917 Russian Revolution.

Today, only 43 of the Imperial Easter Eggs remain, with seven missing.

According to Fabergé family tradition, the company was given complete freedom for the future Imperial Easter Eggs. Not even the royal family knew what form they would take. The only stipulation was that each one should contain a surprise.

Among the Imperial line-up…

The yellow gold Third Imperial Fabergé Easter Egg commissioned in 1887 contains a Vacheron Constantin watch with diamond-set gold hands. The egg sits on a stand with lion’s paw feet, decorated with gold garlands and three cabochon blue sapphires topped with rose diamond-set bows.

The celebrated 1897 Fabergé Coronation Egg. IMAGE: THE FORBES COLLECTION.

This famous Fabergé Peacock egg was commissioned by Tsar Nicholas II in 1908. The peacock automaton has been restored by luxury Swiss watchmaker, Michel Parmigiani, to full working order.

The Fabergé Love Trophy Egg, presented by Tsar Nicholas II to his mother, the Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna, for Easter 1907.

Fabergé Imperial Tsarevich Easter egg, dated 1912 was a gift from Nicholas II to Alexandra Feodorovna. It is made of lapis lazuli and decorated with gold and diamonds.

Inside is a doubleheaded Imperial eagle holding a portrait of Alexei Nicholaevich, the couple's seven-yearold son.

A selection of rare Fabergé eggs at the Viriginia Museum of Fine Arts clockwise from top: the Imperial Rock, the 1915 Red Cross, the 1912 Tsarevich, the Imperial Pelican and the 1903 Peter the Great.

JT2026 AUTUMN 33

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We are playin

Hot off the bench. It’s time to share a jewellery box assortment that Sometimes it was too hard to choose, so a

Recently very dear friends lost their son Jimmy, aged 10, in a ATV farm accident. Jimmy’s father and brother and friend were also hurt. Jimmy was an amazingly bright, funny, life and soul of the party and loved by everyone who came in contact with him.

His death hit home as I lost my daughter Emma in a car accident when she was 19, so understood that all those close to them were wanting to help in any way they could and there’s only so many lasagnes that one family can eat!

I decided I was going to make them all a piece of jewellery to remember Jimmy by and I found this very therapeutic for me. Jimmy had a love of horses, rugby, fishing, polo, hunting, deer stalking and eeling and I wanted to include as much of those that I could.

I made them all a pendant or key ring and the girls a sterling silver bangle, as pictured.

A huge thanks goes to Julie Hitchmough at Regal who helped me achieve the look I wanted.

- Chele Clarkin, Chele Clarkin Jewellery, Mystery Creek 34 JT2026 AUTUMN

ng favourites

sees local designers choosing their favourite pieces created in 2025. a couple of second favourites were picked.

JT2026 AUTUMN 35

A customer brought in old jewellery that was purchased by her husband over the course of their marriage. He wanted her to have something nice and new. With the price of gold as high as it is she decided to remake some of the jewellery she no longer wears. So, using her old gold jewellery, I added a 1.01ct centre diamond and 36 1.5mm round brilliants set in pave.All the work was done in my shop by hand from the wax carving and casting to the stone setting.

I like doing projects like this because the mixture of metals and different gold contents create individual colours that can never be repeated. Usually customers leave the design aspect to me, so they always have me working hard to give them something they will love.

Octopus ring. Freshwater pearl and sterling silver ring.

Handcrafted from wire for an exhibition and inspired by a diving experience I had facing an octopus.

- Rob Wright, Ringcraft Moana, Oakura 36 JT2026 AUTUMN

This is my favourite for the year because the shapes are not ones I would normally use. Visualisation was a challenge and the end result exceeded my expectations for aesthetics.

Second favourite…

Pictured above, the moon rise ring. Under my instruction this is the first gold ring made by my son Arlo from start to finish. It was a real joy to watch him work on this ring and sort out the problems, first in sterling then in 18ct gold, with a 1.16ct round ideal cut VS2 diamond. My only contact with this ring was encouragement and debate.

- Les Riddell, Objects of Art, Cromwell

These matching wedding rings were designed for a nature loving couple who wanted to reflect their love of the bush.

Their design had to include supplejack vines (kareao) and a manuka seed pod. They are manufactured in 9ct rose gold.

- Andrew and Kay Linn, Artisan Manufacturing Jewellers Tauranga

something to suit every age and taste

Scarab Beetle Ring. This was a commission piece that was drawn up for the customer, then hand crafted in 18ct yellow gold. After checking the size was right with the customer, (this is a very heavy ring, so it needed to fit snuggly) I cleaned up every detail in gold. I engraved extra little hairs on the legs of the beetle and under the belly also.

To prepare for the enamel work, I engraved texture patterning to the areas that were going to be covered in slightly transparent coloured enamel. I especially loved the concept of the engraved star burst pattern behind the Scarab Beetle to draw the viewer's eye to the centre. The enamel work was completed by Tony Williams Goldsmith from Dunedin, who is an exceptional enamellist. This was my first ever collaboration piece with Tony, so it was a joy to work with him. After the enamel work was complete, I then gave the ring its final clean-up, attention to detail and polish.

- Steph Lusted, Jewellery & Objets d’Art, Wellington

Welcome to the year of the Fire Horse Occurring once every 60 years, considered powerful and a year for bold action and creativity.

Make a statement with Esse (Model 72-832)

‘Craken’. Sterling silver handcrafted pendant. Exhibition piece inspired by Scandinavian folklore.

- Belinda Lubkoll, Ringcraft Moana, Oakura JT2026 AUTUMN 37

Contact: AM Imports Pty Ltd, NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P. 021 751 115 or E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

Although I created a number of interesting and unique pieces throughout 2025, one particular pair of earrings stands out.

The clients initially visited me to commission custom-made wedding rings, but during our discussions they showed me an engagement ring from a previous relationship and asked whether the metal could be reused.

The ring contained four baguette diamonds and twentyeight small brilliant-cut diamonds. I suggested an alternative approach: rather than reworking the ring, we could transform it into a pair of earrings. I produced a sketch that incorporated the existing diamonds alongside a pair of 6 × 4 mm oval green sapphires, her favourite colour.

I melted the platinum from the original ring and rolled it into wire, from which I hand-made the earrings. The result was a meaningful transformation of an old piece into something entirely new, and it proved to be an exceptionally pleasing additional sale.

- Brian Barrett, BHB Designs Ltd, Wellington

‘Lip Service’ brooch. Repoussé 18ct gold, platinum, enamel and diamonds. From my ‘Body Parts’ collection in my exhibition last year.

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Bespoke 18 carat yellow gold and platinum stingray pendant set with 72 natural brilliant cut diamonds, with 2 x black diamonds in the eyes (not visible in this image).

Our client, who has a love for marine life, commissioned this unique piece to add to her collection of custom made jewellery.

- Warren Beard, Jewel, Petone

Second favourite…

‘The Hand Brooch’. Silver, 18ct gold, Keshi pearl and red enamel.

- Tony Williams, Tony Williams Goldsmith, Dunedin

Nigerian aquamarine, with coloured sapphires, tsavorite garnets and tourmalines made up in 9ct yellow gold and silver.

“This design is my attempt to 'deconstruct' the more typical symmetrical ring layout that customers often request me to make. I've thrown everything at it and just seen what sticks! “ - Mieke van Dam, Mieke van Dam Jewellery, Nelson

This client had us looking for a specific colour and size sapphire, it took a few months to locate and land it in NZ. Made from platinum with a just under 3ct Ceylon sapphire and with 1.9ct of white diamonds.

- Jason Baylis, Canterbury Jewellers Ltd, Christchurch

9ct yellow & white gold black diamond star detailed stud earrings. These earrings feature a pair of 3.6mm round cut black diamonds, claw set in the centre of this unique star and disc design.

- Rita Bryson, Cameron Jewellery, Palmerston North

9ct yellow gold & white gold, hand carved jade and round brilliant cut diamond necklace. This necklace features a 39.22ct hand-carved piece of jade, with a 0.38ct round brilliant cut diamond illusion set in the centre.

The pendant is centred within a handmade small half twist paperclip chain.

- Sam Drummond, Cameron Jewellery, Palmerston North

This bespoke Meteor ring is hand-carved in 18ct white recycled gold and features a 1.70ct, 6.8mm rough salt and pepper diamond inside a three-claw setting. The textured band features two 1.6mm black diamonds.

- Sophie Divett, Sophie Divett Jewellery, Christchurch JT2026 AUTUMN 39

Two stones, one story De Beers Group has announced a collaboration between GemFair, the company’s programme to help formalise the artisanal and small-scale diamond mining (ASM) sector and its luxury jewellery brand, De Beers London, to bring the story and beauty of GemFair’s ethically sourced, artisanal diamonds to consumers for the first time.

GemFair is a first-of-its-kind sourcing initiative that aims to transform standards and livelihoods for artisanal diamond miners by providing fair value purchasing, training to improve mining and working practices and a formal and traceable route-to-market for ethically sourced artisanal diamonds.

Through GemFair’s proprietary digital tools and third party verified assurance programme, eligible diamonds can be traced from mine site to market.

GemFair is also part of Building Forever, De Beers Group’s industryleading commitment to sustainability, transforming rarity into responsibility by supporting meaningful impact that endures beyond diamonds for countries, communities and ecosystems. The programme’s success is measured through improvements in standards, support of livelihoods in both mining and alternative livelihoods like farming and fishing, and traceability rather than production volume, reflecting its long-term, systems-based approach.

The capsule collection with De Beers London translates this journey into a series of creations that pair rough and polished GemFair diamonds, offering a rare and tangible expression of transformation. Comprising 12 unique pieces, the capsule collection celebrates the House’s intimate relationship with the source. Sculpted by the quiet force of rivers, each diamond was individually selected for its character and quality. The polished diamonds were handcrafted exclusively for the capsule, while the rough diamonds remain as nature intended – an authentic and powerful tribute to the Earth’s raw beauty. Through ‘Toi & Moi’ rings and

the ‘Modern Lines’ set, each piece reflects a continuous dialogue between discovery and craftsmanship, honouring both the origin of the diamond and the artistry that reveals it.

Beyond this capsule, GemFair is now a registered supplier to De Beers London for future collections, having met the House’s rigorous standards for quality and responsible sourcing. This partnership marks an important step in strengthening the connection between exceptional diamonds, the people who discover them, and the finished jewellery piece.

De Beers Group launched GemFair to lead industry efforts to formalise a transparent route to market for artisanal diamond miners, which accounts for around 10 per cent of global diamond supply by value and provides a vital source of livelihood for millions of people in some of the poorest parts of the world.

The programme launched in 2018 in the Kono region of Sierra Leone, where it continues to operate today. De Beers chose Sierra Leone to establish the GemFair programme because the government has made substantial efforts to include artisanal mining in its regulation and the country has transformed following the civil conflict that ended more than two decades ago.

Today, there are more than 500 artisanal mine sites participating in GemFair, which in turn support approximately 7,000 direct and many more indirect livelihoods. Since launching, GemFair has purchased more than 20,000 diamonds from participating miners and conducted

Modern Lines bracelet.

Modern Lines earrings.

40 JT2026 AUTUMN

Toi & Moi rings.

more than 5,700 compliance visits to participating sites. GemFair has also launched a programme to reclaim artisanal mine sites once mining has ended to help improve safety and environmental practices within the sector. Since 2020, the programme has converted almost 160 abandoned mine pits to agricultural use and donated more than 1,000 kilos of rice, fruit and vegetable seedlings for local communities, supporting food security and providing an alternative source of livelihoods.

Steve Allan, Head of GemFair, said: “The collaboration with De Beers London marks a significant milestone for GemFair as our beautiful, ethicallysourced artisanal diamonds are sold in a dedicated jewellery collection for the first time. GemFair makes a tangible difference to the lives of the artisanal miners involved in the programme and it’s a great privilege to help tell their stories through the diamonds that we source and sell.

“We’ve come a long way since starting out as a pilot programme trying to establish a model for something that had never been done before. It’s very rewarding to see GemFair diamonds set in such stunning jewellery pieces, representing a real full circle moment.”

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Jewels, power and history London’s Victoria & Albert Museum is showing an exhibition dedicated to the most fashionable queen in history, Marie Antoinette.

The exhibition, ‘Marie Antoinette Style’, includes rare personal items owned and worn by Marie Antoinette including jewels from her private collection and the final note she wrote in her life. The exhibition traces the cultural impact of the Marie Antoinette style and her ongoing inspiration for leading designers and creatives, from Sofia Coppola and Manolo Blahnik to Moschino and Vivienne Westwood.

Sarah Grant, Curator of Marie Antoinette Style said: “The most fashionable, scrutinised and controversial queen in history, Marie Antoinette’s name summons both visions of excess and objects and

interiors of great beauty. The Austrian archduchess turned Queen of France had an enormous impact on European taste and fashion in her own time, creating a distinctive style that now has universal appeal and application.

“This exhibition explores that style and the figure at its centre, using a range of exquisite objects belonging to Marie Antoinette, alongside the most beautiful fine and decorative objects that her legacy has inspired.”

Presented chronologically the exhibition which runs until March 22nd this year begins in 1770 and ends at Marie Antoinette’s execution in 1793.

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Élisabeth-Louise Vigée Le Brun’s 1783 portrait of the French queen holding a rose, a defining image of her cultivated elegance and enduring love of pearls and delicate bows.

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A baroque-shaped natural pearl and diamond bow pendant owned by the last queen of France, sold at Sotheby’s in 2018 for US$36.2 million due to its exceptional provenance.

The Countess of Sutherland’s diamond necklace, (20 large old brilliant-cut diamonds in silver-topped gold collets), thought to contain stones linked to the ill-fated original necklace associated with Marie Antoinette. Tradition links the diamonds to the scandal that contributed to her downfall, the so-called ‘Affair of the Diamond Necklace’. The French queen was implicated in this, one of the grandest jewellery scams in history and although innocent, her reputation never truly recovered.

Diamond-set bracelet clasps featuring Marie Antoinette’s cipher and blue enamel plaques, a refined example of royal personalisation and one of several surviving jewels linked to the French queen.

JT2026 AUTUMN 43

Paul Popa, Bertrand Russell and my father

by Brian Barrett In the late 1970s, during a visit from my father, we were walking through Newtown, Wellington, when my father spotted a bust of Bertrand Russell displayed in a front garden. I was familiar with the house; it belonged to the bust’s sculptor, Paul Popa.

Paul and I had crossed paths regularly.

He would occasionally visit my workshop to borrow a tool and we developed a quiet mutual respect.

Beyond the fact that we were both jewellers, we shared the experience of being relatively recent immigrants finding our way in a new country.

I suggested to my father that we call in. Paul welcomed us warmly into his home and what followed was several hours of animated discussion between the two of them, united by a shared admiration for the philosophy of Bertrand Russell. It was a meeting of kindred minds.

As well as being a sculptor, Paul was a jeweller, but his life story was far richer than any single profession.

During the Second World War he survived the Nazi occupation, only to then be held as a political prisoner by 44 JT2026 AUTUMN

the Communist regime in Romania. He eventually managed to obtain refugee status and a passage to New Zealand.

Before the war, Paul had been studying medicine, but the upheaval of those years cut his studies short.

When Paul arrived in New Zealand, his lack of English and the prevailing attitudes toward foreigners made life difficult. Eccentric though he may have seemed, he was deeply intelligent and highly creative. His aspirations of a medical career having been thwarted, he then drew on his creative side and turned his hands to jewellery making and sculpture, forging a modest but honest living in Wellington.

At the end of my father’s visit to Paul’s home, Paul very generously presented him with a beautiful handcarved chess set he had crafted himself.

This set is uniquely New Zealand and

deeply symbolic, with every piece an intricately detailed Māori figure. While the figures appear to be cast in resin, I don’t know how many of these sets Paul produced or how many still exist; I suspect they are exceptionally rare.

My father took the set back to England with him. More than 40 years later, after he and my mother had passed away, I returned to England to settle their affairs. While sorting through their belongings, I was reunited with the cherished chess set and brought it back home to New Zealand.

Paul passed away some time in the late 1980’s. It feels only right that both the chess set and the artist who created it deserve to be remembered.

This is a small tribute to Paul Popa - a survivor, an immigrant, a philosopher at heart and a craftsman of remarkable skill.

Red carpet creatures Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection continues to reflect its ties to the glitz and glamour of celebrity events, especially the Cannes Film Festival. The maison’s newest Red Carpet jewels – titled 'Caroline's Universe', (named for Caroline Scheufele, artistic director and co-president of Chopard) - was launched at the 78th Cannes Film Festival. Like in previous appearances, the latest Red Carpet Collection is composed of exactly 78 pieces, reflecting the number of years the Cannes Film Festival has been in existence.

Some central themes emerge across the collection, including Carolyn’s deep love for animals.

Chopard parrot ring with 4.92cts of brilliant-cut rubies, 2.84 cts of multi-coloured sapphires, white and black diamonds, garnets and onyx cabochons set in 18ct rose and white gold.

Hippopotamus ring with 17.38cts of brilliant-cut grey diamonds, garnets and onyx cabochons set in 18ct white gold.

Owl ring with a 16.08ct heartshaped rubellite surrounded by cognac, white and black diamonds totalling 6.28cts set in 18ct rose gold.

‘Byron’, the Cavalier King Charles ring paved with white, black and cognac diamonds totalling 6.37cts, plus rubies, pink sapphires and onyx cabochons set in 18ct rose gold.

Distributed by Olympic Watch. For enquires please email sales@olympicwatch.com

Saddle-up and enjoy the ride February 17, 2026 marked the Lunar New Year, as well as a shift in zodiac symbol from the snake to the horse; an animal that symbolises vitality, unbridled freedom and the ‘meritorious service’ of hard-earned success.

For jewellery and watches that means embracing the horse’s dual nature: Rugged power and innate grace through design.

“Jewellery for my ‘horsey’ clients needs to be sturdy but classy,” says Chele Clarkin of equestrian & country-themed jeweller Chele Clarkin Jewellery, Mystery Creek. “Our most popular pendant is the stirrup. This can be in gold or silver or two-tone and is a very popular piece to add stones to.

“Pictured is our jumbo stirrup, made for a lovely client who wanted a sterling silver stirrup which could feature the sapphire and diamonds from two old rings she owned.

“The stirrup has a horseshoe nail top and is perfect on this occasion for the smaller diamonds and the base is perfect for the sapphire and diamonds from the old mount to be pavé set in. Should she ever decide she doesn’t want to be so sparkly she can just turn it round and have it plain.

“This stirrup is made up of two castings, one for the nail top and one for the stirrup and these are held at Regal Castings. I have a small but mighty team helping me and for this pendant the stones were set by Gary Olivier and the stirrup cleaned up and put together by Angela Cosson.”

From international designers…

Inspired by an Irish ballad, this intricate signet ring by Cece Jewellery depicts a horse rearing in the moonlight within a diamond-studded horseshoe. Hand-painted using champlevé enamel on 18ct gold, the ring is finished with star-set diamonds and floral engravings of primrose and lavender, symbolising freedom and untamed desire.

David Yurman Lunar New Year horse amulet in 18ct yellow gold with diamonds.

Crafted from 925 sterling silver, finished with 18ct yellow gold plating and adorned with stones in vibrant hues, Elyndra from Thomas Sabo, tells a story of ‘boundless freedom’.

Dancing through the clouds, this Swarovski figurine embodies the bravery and resilience of the horse. Crafted especially for the Lunar New Year, the design features 397 facets with Swarovski’s Golden Shine effect adding a radiant glow.

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Because every detail matters David Webb horse earrings in 18ct gold and platinum with cabochon rubies, brilliant-cut diamonds and blue enamel.

Crafted in a gold-tone stainless steel case with a grooved coin-edge bezel and matching bracelet, this Bulova watch features a layered red and gold dial with a depiction of a rearing stallion, framed by floral motifs.

Piaget favours a spectrum of rich blue hues, flowing across the dial like a wellconditioned mane. Created with master enameller Anita Porchet, gold threads separate the strands, while parades of diamonds make this one-of-18 white gold creations truly precious.

Your jewellery is unique, and so is our approach. We craft insurance solutions that ensures peace of mind without compromise.

Shane Laurie

027 279 8355 shane.laurie@ajg.co.nz As a manufacturing and fine jewellery retailer, I was delighted to meet Shane.

He has an exceptional understanding of the unique needs and intricacies of the jewellery industry. His prompt, proactive, and seamless service made what is often a complex process feel effortless - and he’s truly a pleasure to work with.

Gina Dean of DEAN & DUST

Riding the clouds …This vibrant timepiece, dedicated to the Year of the Horse, was created in collaboration with former Swatch Art Peace Hotel artist-in-residence Yu Wenjie. The dial and matte transparent case feature two horses against a background of flames and drifting clouds in multi-coloured print.

The Dior Grand Soir Year of the Horse is limited to 30 pieces and features a miniature rose gold horse amidst a mother-of-pearl enchanted forest on its dial, accented with pink gold butterflies and diamonds, blue sapphires, yellow sapphires, amethysts and spessartite garnets.

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And the winners are…

Entry trends for the 2025 American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards included some returning favourites like tourmaline, including rubellite and pink and purple gems, as well as a strong showing of sapphires and garnets, cameo faces, top-quality rainbow moonstones, ocean themes and some exceptional emeralds.

Winning pieces among the more than 300 submitted were… t Cutting Edge – Best in show Suite of emerald-cut Colombian emeralds weighing 12.91cts by Oren Nhaissi of EMCO Gem, in collaboration with Yaron Nhaissi. This submission also won first place in the category of Pairs & Suites.

Spectrum - Best in show u Elements bracelet, featuring a 14.16ct tourmaline, accented with 12.77cts of peridot, 4.80cts of diamonds, 1.13cts of spinel and 1.12cts of garnet. The piece is from the Somewhere in the Rainbow Gem and Jewelry Collection, in collaboration with Marc Höllmüller. This piece also won first place for Business/Day Wear.

t Spectrum - Best use of colour This ring bears an 8.48ct opal accented with trapezoid tsavorite garnets, round tsavorite garnets and round hauyne (a rare, vibrant blue and transparent gemstone mainly sourced from the Eifel District of Germany.) Designed by Niveet Nagpal of Omi Gems.

Spectrum - Best use of pearl u Richard Berberian from Elyse Fine Jewelers – Gemologist, in collaboration with Anna Maria Cammilli, designed this midnight aurora pendant sporting a 14mm black South Sea pearl accented by 20.18cts of sapphires and 2.36cts of diamonds.

t Spectrum - Classical From Randy Coffin of Coffin & Trout Fine Jewellers: ‘Face in the Mirror’ pendant with a removable bail featuring a hand-carved banded agate cameo, accented with a customcut ‘mirror’ quartz, diamonds, spessartite garnets and orange spinel.

Cutting Edge - Best of Single entries u Philip Louer of North American Gem Carvers, in collaboration with Michael Christie and Susan Allen, designed this 18ct yellow gold essence bottle featuring a 190ct aquamarine, a 103ct Tahitian pearl, a 470ct chrysoprase and diamonds. It is titled ‘Love at First Sight’.

t Cutting Edge - Carving From the Somewhere in the Rainbow Gem and Jewelry Collection in collaboration with Gabi Klein, an elephant carved in dark-grey obsidian from base to top of trunk, with a rhodonite tongue, cacholong tusks and black onyx eyes.

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2026 MELBOURNE 14 & 15 MARCH

Royal Exhibition Building - Carlton Hosted by:

Scan the QR code for more information or go to

jewelleryindustrysummit.com/melbourne/

JWNZ SPRING TRADE FAIR Sunday 13th September, 9.30am to 4.30pm Viaduct Events Centre, Auckland

After the most successful 2025 JWNZ SPRING TRADE FAIR at the Viaduct Events Centre, Auckland, we are filling up fast for 2026.

All tables are in a booth format, please call to book or discuss options and availability.

www.jewelleryfair.co.nz Thanks to our Trade Fair sponsors

Anderson, 021 596 988, info@jwnz.co.nz Contact: Craig or: Debbie Whiting, 0274 777 955, debbie@inklink.co.nz

WHOLESALE JEWELLERY SERVICES

A year unfolds The theme was ‘Seasons’ for the annual selling exhibition at the London store, Tomfoolery, late last year. Forty-two designers took part, with a tour taking visitors through the changing of the seasons, telling the story of a year unfolding with colour, gemstones and texture.

“Jewellery has a remarkable ability to hold memories. People often recall not just the moment, but even the weather, the light, the season,” said Tomfoolery creative director Laura Kay. “Through thoughtful placement, craftsmanship and material choice, these memories can be transformed into something deeply personal and wearable, making jewellery the perfect medium for everyday connection.

“This is why I chose Seasons as the theme for this year’s Art Ring: It’s a fundamental part of our daily experience, constantly shifting, shaping and colouring the memories we carry.”

Among the one-of-a-kind statement rings capturing, autumn, winter, spring and summer were…

The summer Meadow ring in sterling silver with rubies, emeralds, fancy colour sapphires and diamonds. £4,000. Sarah Pulvertaf.

Summer Shell ring in sterling silver with topaz, sapphire, rubellite, tourmaline, white zircon and ruby. £625. Lynne MacLachlan.

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Winter Sunlight Art Ring. Crafted in 9ct white gold and 22ct rose gold, this one-of-akind ring features a luminous golden topaz that shimmers like morning frost. £3,950.

Marion Lebouteiller The Ice Queen Art Ring by Studio Baharra in 10ct white gold and silver, with a 2.5ct. rose-cut black diamond and 4.6cts t.w. diamonds. £11,995.

The Autumnal Mineral Slice Art Ring by Maria Manola is a one-of-a-kind, natureinspired ring in 9ct yellow gold. Brilliantcut diamonds in white, yellow, pink, champagne, salt & pepper and cognac, paired with orange, yellow and purple sapphires, create a miniature autumnal landscape. £3,290.

The main character in Alice Clarke’s Spring Equinox Art Ring is a vivid green 4.02ct pear-shaped emerald, held in place by two delicate ‘sprouting’ stems of 100% recycled 18ct yellow gold. £3,855.

Sylvan Sunbeam Art Ring by Laura Ngyou. Laura says about her Art Ring: “The glowing, fiery tones of imperial topaz are reminiscent of golden sunlight beaming down on to a forest floor, layered with freshly fallen leaves and autumnal mushrooms.” £2,250.

The A Party on a Summer Night Art Ring by Priscilla Vazana is a wearable artwork that captures the magic of a fleeting summer evening. At its heart lies a mesmerising blue opal, encircled by sapphires and diamonds that shimmer like dewdrops under twilight. £3,500.

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The crew at Jewellery Time would like to thank our loyal advertisers and contributors.

Thirty years plus behind us now and with good support from our industry.

Future deadlines: 2026 Winter Booking, Editorial and New Products: May 7, Advertising Material: May 14, Magazine Posted: May 21

2026 Spring Trade Fair Special Booking, Editorial and New Products: August 4, Advertising Material: August 11, Magazine Posted: August 18

2026 Summer Booking, Editorial and New Products: November 12, Advertising Material: November 19, Magazine Posted: November 26

2027 Autumn Booking, Editorial and New Products: February 4, Advertising Material: February 11, Magazine Posted: February 18

Give us a call to discuss how we can help.

Any support the trade can give us is welcomed. If you have an advertisement, new products to promote, or an editorial feature suggestion, please get in touch.

Debbie Whiting (advertising) and Debra Douglas (editorial) debbie@inklink.co.nz 0274 777 955

chaucer@xtra.co.nz 021 185 6846

Homage to nature Christian Dior once called flowers his most faithful advisers, cultivating entire gardens just to capture their scents and silhouettes. For the house’s newest haute joaillerie chapter, Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane transformed that fascination, along with Dior’s enduring love for lavish, late-night spectacles, into Diorexquis, a 165-piece ‘Homage to Nature’ collection, showcased at Château de La Colle Noire in the South of France.

Models wear creations from the Diorexquis High Jewellery collection at a special event at the Château de la Colle Noire in Pays de Fayence, Provence.

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Phone 03 389 9878 Email sales@finneys.co.nz www.finneys.co.nz JT2026 AUTUMN 55

GOLDSMITHS GUILD OF NZ RISING GOLD PRICES AND THE BENCH GOLDSMITH

The start of 2026 has seen a continued and significant rise in precious metal prices. This trend is causing concern across the jewellery industry, but it is perhaps felt most acutely by the goldsmith working at the bench.

Providing accurate quotations has become a delicate balancing act; in such a volatile market, metal values can shift significantly between a quote and its acceptance. Even a slight miscalculation in weight now risks erasing profit margins.

Against this backdrop, CAD-assisted design has become more attractive than ever. The ability to calculate metal weight accurately at the design stage allows for far greater certainty.

Goldsmiths need only purchase the metal required for casting, reducing the need to overbuy and significantly limiting wastage.

This same rigor must extend to repairs. Small additions of gold may seem negligible, yet collectively they can represent a meaningful cost.

Carefully weighing every addition of gold is now an essential practice

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for managing risk and protecting the bottom line.

The surging value of gold has the potential to lead to a rise in crime.

While jewellery has long been a primary objective for theft and burglary, the current market surge will have intensified its appeal. These small, high-value items are easily liquidated through unsuspecting gold buyers, providing a lucrative stream of income for criminals.

Consequently, the appraisal sector is facing unprecedented demand, with people realising that their current valuations are out-dated. As global events continue to shift the economic landscape, those of us in the trade feel the impact daily at the bench, navigating the relentless climb of gold prices.

MASTER JEWELLER

It’s a pleasure to celebrate the latest recipients of the 'Trade Certified Master Manufacturing Jeweller' distinction.

Congratulations to Peter Cameron from Palmerston North and John Franich from Auckland on receiving their certificates. They now join a select few in New Zealand whose mastery

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is recognised by their peers. It is undoubtedly a great achievement and something to be very proud of - well done to you both!

Many thanks to Grant Harrison at JIRBNZ for organising the provision and subsequent presentation of the Certificates.

- Brian Barrett GGNZ CHAIRMAN 04 476 4764, 021 661 060 nzgoldsmithsguild@gmail.com

RETAILERS REVIEW BY SUSI CHINNERY-BROWN Tucked away in her home-based studio on the outskirts of Whangarei, Christine Price has a magnificent outlook over farmland and native bush, beautifully landscaped gardens and her beloved ponies in the paddock. What a great space for inspiration.

She started her love affair with jewellery while getting work experience in her school holidays at JD’s in Whangarei. Then completed her three-year Diploma course at Peter Minturn’s Goldsmith School. She returned to JD’s, worked at the bench for nine years and honed her skills. Christine went on to become the manager at Global Diamonds and also worked at the bench for several years.

In 2022, she finally moved to her home studio and started up her own business - CHRISTINE PRICE Goldsmith. What she loves most about the industry is the people, interpreting their thoughts and creating beautiful, unique jewellery that her clients treasure and get pleasure from wearing. Her motto is ‘one of a kind, one at a time‘; all commissioned pieces with many loyal repeat clients.

She recently made herself a magnificent ring to celebrate a ‘significant birthday‘. Breathtakingly beautiful, it is a real statement piece. The centre stone on Christine’s ring is a 16.44ct rubelite (from Precious Gems), surrounded by 1.95ct of natural diamonds (from Star Gems), platinum head and 9ct yellow gold.

All handmade by Christine and hand set by Paul Cosson.

She shares her life with partner Sam, ‘the man‘ and in her spare time loves gardening to relax and taking her two ponies for a ‘blat’ down the beach.

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JWNZ PRESIDENT’S REPORT Happy New Year all!

Summer is here (albeit not a great one) and a new trading year looms.

I haven’t yet been on the road this year, however, have spoken to plenty of our customers and anecdotal evidence suggests that the green shoots we saw appearing in the latter stages of last year are continuing to develop and cautious optimism remains. Christmas trading was generally OK, with most I have spoken to having had a better run into Christmas than the previous year, noting that the previous year was soft.

Certainly in our business we have seen a strong finish to 2025 and continue to see good re-orders coming through; often customers are hesitant to reorder finished goods post-Christmas if they think things are tough, however, hopefully we are seeing a positive shift in the retail environment. Again, only time will tell, and in the meantime, we box on and work on gaining and maintaining efficiencies where we can.

Economist Tony Alexander reports in his latest survey of business sentiment that businesses are anticipating raising prices as the economic activity improves and additionally signs are on the horizon of a labour shortage, so if wanting to capitalise on the (hopefully) improved trading environment then we

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need to ensure we’re staffed to do so.

Gold and silver prices continue their march north, with the spot price (in NZ$ terms) of silver and gold both being significantly higher than a year ago (albeit with some easing in the first week of Feb). This likely continues to cause potential challenges for sales of new jewellery in the precious metals, however, continued demand for remakes and remodels of old or existing jewellery. Jewellers report their workshops are busy, whether remaking or repairing existing jewellery.

Watch and clock makers continue to have full work benches also, with plenty of work to go on with. Watch sales around the country were mixed over Christmas, but generally seem to have been better than the previous year. Those reporting stronger sales generally seem to have multiple sales channels and are not just reliant on the foot traffic. Black Friday obviously has an impact and I’m hearing that many customers do their Christmas and Boxing Day shopping on Black Friday these days.

Security is an ingoing issue, so please ensure you have good procedures and practices in place to mitigate as much as possible. We are still hearing of issues, despite the ramraids having

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Ollie Dugdale.

largely disappeared from the headlines.

Finally, don’t forget to make your plans for the JWNZ Trade fair on the 13th of September. A terrific event and a fantastic venue once again. We look forward to seeing many of you there.

We will be distributing a short survey shortly via email, so please take a minute or so to give some feedback and ideas on what you would like from the JWNZ going forward.

Until next time, all the best and good trading.

- Ollie Dugdale, JWNZ President Ph 03 356 3587 sales@pacifictime.co.nz

Celebrate the season at the JWNZ Spring Trade Fair. It’s an event that brings together manufacturers, wholesalers and suppliers to the New Zealand jewellery and watch industry. As well as providing exhibitors the opportunity to showcase new designs, products and services, whilst meeting new and renewing old contacts.

See you on Sunday 13th September at Auckland’s Viaduct Events Centre.

JT2026 AUTUMN 57

The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Inc. M E MBE R BE NE F ITS: Jewellery Time magazine - The focal point of JWNZ member and industry communication.

JWNZ Inc. Trade Fair - An annual event held on behalf of our members, for our members and industry.

Internet - www.jwnz.co.nz - The official JWNZ website with a free listing for financial members.

2025

Press Releases - Jewellery and watch specific editorial promotion of product and JWNZ members.

Consumer Information - Online brochures, water resistancy guide and refund policy.

BUSINESS SERVICES: ANZ Bank - Business and Personal banking.

ANZ Merchant Business Solutions - Merchant facilities for EFTPOS, Credit & Debit Card sales.

Gallagher - Business, Personal and Travel insurances.

CourierPost - Special Trackpak rates, $2000 insurance cover on each parcel sent.

EFTPOS NZ Ltd - EFTPOS Terminals and Payment Solutions.

Business & Personal Banking

Merchant Facilities

Gilrose Finance - Consumer Finance for Hire Purchase sales.

Grow Online Ltd - Creating Results Driven Websites, SEO (Search Engine Optimisation), SEM (Search Engine Marketing), Ecommerce Websites, B2B, Custom Solutions.

Office Products Depot - Stationery, Office furniture, Computer accessories and consumerables. one.nz - Telecommunication services - Fixed line & Broadband one.nz - DigitalMobile - Vodafone Product Suppliers

INDUSTRY REPRESENTATION: Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand - Representation on the Jewellery & Watch Industry organisation responsible for Apprenticeship Training.

TRADE & COMMERCE: Government Liaison (When required) - Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Commerce Commission, New Zealand Customs, Disputes Tribunal, New Zealand Trade & Enterprise, Immigration New Zealand, Statistics New Zealand, Ministry of Economic Development.

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JWNZ EXECUTIVE NOTES 2025, A YEAR OF CHANGE FOR THE JWNZ

For the JWNZ 2025 was a year of change. A change of leadership and structure of the Society. A change of balance date for our financial reporting. A change of Constitution and reregistration of the Society under the Incorporated Societies Act 2022. A change of venue for our Spring Trade Fair. And a new Life Member.

JWNZ EXECUTIVE COUNCIL

The JWNZ Annual General Meeting saw a new Executive Council of the Society elected, as per our new constitution. The officers of the Society will be an Executive Council comprising a Chairman/President, two North Island representatives and one South Island representative. Voting resulted in the following members elected: Chairman/ President Ollie Dugdale - Christchurch, North Island representatives Brian Barrett - Wellington, Gary Barwick - Wellington and South Island representative Robert McAuliffe Dunedin.

JWNZ FINANCIALS

Having changed our financial year end date to 31 March, the JWNZ Annual Report presented to the 2025 Annual General Meeting was for 13 months, 1 March 2024 to 31 March 2025.

The JWNZ Statement of Financial Performance shows a surplus. Included in this change is the realignment of our GST Return periods. Our Annual General Meetings will still be held in September, within six months of the end of our financial year, a requirement under the guidelines of reregistration and the Incorporated Societies Act 2022.

ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTIONS

The annual subscription rates for the 2026-2027 will remain the same as for 2025-2026. We are very thankful for you for your support through your financial membership. To help with your

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budgeting we continue offer the option of paying the annual membership subscription by monthly by instalment.

JWNZ CONSTITUTION

The JWNZ National Council approved the Draft JWNZ Constitution that was then presented to the 2025 JWNZ Annual General Meeting. The members attending the AGM voted on and approved the new JWNZ Constitution, which was included in the reregistration of the Society under the Incorporated Societies Act 2022. JWNZ reregistration has been completed, processed and accepted by the Registrar of Incorporated Societies.

JWNZ SPRING TRADE FAIR 2026

The 2026 JWNZ Spring Trade Fair, will be held on Sunday 13 September 2026 at the Viaduct Events Centre, Auckland.

The success of last year’s event ensured the continuation of our annual event and to date we are well on our way to selling out the available exhibition space. As well we have had several enquiries from new companies wishing to exhibit. Debbie Whiting, our Trade Fair Manager, is continuing to manage the event on our behalf.

Interested in exhibiting? Contact Debbie Whiting T (+64) 0274 777 955 or E debbie@inklink.co.nz The JWNZ Executive is looking forward to our 2026 event and is looking at various options to enhance your visitor experience at the event.

MEET YOU AT THE FAIR

The 42nd HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show 2026 is being held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) from March 4 to 8 March 2026.

JWNZ members traveling to Hong Kong are advised that I have been invited to be a Mission Leader to this premier event, which showcases finished fine jewellery, gems and accessories.

Craig Anderson.

Should you require any help during your visit to the event or supplier matching, I will be available to meet at the Dragon Lounge at the Centre.

Message me on WhatsApp +6421 596 988.

JWNZ LIFE MEMBER

Ash Wells was awarded Life Membership of the JWNZ on 14 September 2025. Ash’s Life Membership was awarded in recognition of his commitment and support of the JWNZ, watchmaking and the jewellery and watch industry in New Zealand over the many years of his membership of the Society.

JWNZ MEMBERS SURVEY

Looking to the future Ollie Dugdale JWNZ President, has requested that we survey members for feedback, ideas and initiatives, that you as a member would like the JWNZ to investigate or provide for the future. This survey will be emailed to you, so please take time to respond.

- Craig Anderson JWNZ Executive Secretary T 021 59 69 88 E info@jwnz.co.nz

JT2026 AUTUMN 59

JEWELLERY INDUSTRY REGISTRATION BOARD Happy new year everybody. I hope that Christmas treated you well and you are back ready for 2026.

With the passing of the year the results for those apprentices who sat their Trade Certificate Final Examination are out.

This examination does not gain someone their Trade Certificate on its own.

To be awarded a Trade Certificate as a New Zealand Manufacturing Jeweller or as a New Zealand Watch and Clockmaker, a pass in the Trade Certificate examination must also be grouped with 8000hrs at the bench spent mastering all the ‘Tasks’ as outlined in the apprentice’s Training Record book.

This includes passing “the practical test piece or training days as directed” and completion of Stages 1, 2 and 3 of the TOPNZ correspondence courses.

A huge part of the support JIRBNZ and the apprentices receive is shown by the firm supporters flagged below on our apprentice supporter’s banner, who hand over some of their hard-earned cash.

Without this commitment by these firms, the JIRBNZ simply couldn’t function.

I am pleased to again confirm that all firms bannered as apprentice supporters below have wholeheartedly repledged their support for 2026.

Also this year we welcome two new Platinum sponsors, being Patridge Jewellers and the Gemmological Association of Australia. Both of these sponsors have an extensive background in the trade and it’s exciting to see them giving back, supporting apprentices and making available their expertise.

Please do take the time to familiarise yourself with the introduction information available for both of them Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand

Puri Panekiretanga – Keeping Standards High

Sponsors 2026

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and all sponsors, on the JIRBNZ website via the tab link jirbnz.org.nz/sponsors.

I take the opportunity to now list all of the much-appreciated apprentice supporters, in order of category.

PLATINUM 1- Morris and Watson 2- Jewellery Services 3- BECKS 4- Gemmological Association of Australia 5- Gallagher 6- PARTRIDGE GOLD 7- Warburtons 8- Precious Gem Imports 9- Pacific Time Industries 10- Audacious Gems 11- New Zealand Jewellery Findings.

12- Jewellery Time SILVER 13- PEKA 14- Worth and Douglas 15- Chemgold 16- Carl Young Gems Corporate Sponsors – Jewellers and Watchmakers NZ and the New Zealand Horological Institution.

Do take the time to note who they are, their commitment to apprentice training and support them as a big thank you, in return.

Encouraging employees to take on an apprentice is the fundamental purpose of JIRBNZ and it is great to see 2026 start on a positive note with Master Les Riddell at Objects of Art in Cromwell taking on Lucy Gibson and Halfdan Hansen from Jens Hansen/Joel Whitwell, taking on Charlie Parker. We also had the monumental presentation of title Master Watch and Clockmaker awarded to a well deserving Bill Groves (who completed his last trade repair two years ago) coinciding with a celebration of his 100th birthday. This enables him (and all

Christine Price receives her Trade Certificate from Susi Chinnery-Brown

Masters) to use the post-nominal letters MWC or MMJ for Master Manufacturing Jeweller.

A number of Trade Certificates were issued in 2025 and one in particular took a bit of time to be awarded. Susi Chinnery-Brown writes of this, with accompanying pictures, in this issue’s Retailers Review. Please welcome to the Trade as a Qualified Trade Certified Tradesperson Manufacturing Jeweller, Christine Price of Christine Price Jewellers, Whangarei. Well done Christine.

– Grant Harrison Industry appointed Commissioner of Apprentices Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand M: 027 693 0001, E: info@jirbnz.org.nz W: www.jirbnz.org.nz

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES STATEMENT MAKERS GUESS - GW0995L2 Designed to shine from every angle, this rectangular GUESS watch is pure statement glamour. The polished gold-tone stainless steel case creates a sleek, reflective frame, while the fully crystal-set silver dial adds all-over sparkle that catches the light beautifully. A crystal-trimmed bezel surrounds the design, creating a radiant, highshine finish.

The coordinating bracelet, accented with shimmering crystals, enhances the jewellery-inspired feel while maintaining GUESS’s signature smooth, comfortable wear. RRP $429.95.

ROSEFIELD - OVWGSG-OV19 The Ovale by Rosefield is a 22mm oval timepiece exuding timeless elegance with a modern edge. The clean white matte dial is complemented by a gold-tone stainless steel bracelet, creating a luxurious and polished look.

A black Swarovski® crystal on the crown adds a subtle touch of sparkle, making this sleek, elevated timepiece perfect for both everyday wear and special occasions. RRP $325.

FURLA - WW00070002L2 The Furla Delizia marries jewellery artistry with expert watchmaking in one striking design to capture the soft elegance of the perlè trend. It features a luxurious green dial on a 26mm oval case, while the interlocking bracelet of polished gold-tone stainless steel spheres brings texture, presence and personality. RRP $449.

adidas Originals - AOST26036 The Digital Two Ring Watch takes a cult adidas Originals silhouette and reimagines it as jewellery with style. A compact 20mm digital display sits at the centre of a bold, modern design in gold-tone stainless steel. A nod to our archive, reinterpreted for the present, the ring features an easy-to-wear expansion band and a look that speaks for itself. RRP $249.95.

GUESS - JUBB06130JWYGL A flutter of elegance defines this charming design from GUESS Jewellery. Two crystal-enriched gold-tone butterfly charms are paired with a central charm featuring our iconic Quattro G logo, catching the light beautifully and adding playful sophistication to this gold-tone bracelet.

Feminine and confident, it’s perfect worn alone or styled with the matching necklace and earrings. RRP $139.95.

GUESS - JUMB06027JWYGL Refined with a rebellious edge, this gold-tone men’s bracelet from GUESS Jewellery delivers confident impact. Crafted with a bold chain design and accented with crystal enriched Quattro G motif plaques throughout, it brings sharp contrast and modern attitude, perfect worn solo or layered for a stronger statement. RRP $179.95.

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaaccessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au JT2026 AUTUMN 61

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES CLASSIC HITS OR9447-14Y7 – Experience true rarity with our one-of-a-kind Australian Opal Pendants, showcasing authentic opals renowned for exceptional quality. Each pendant reveals a mesmerising play of colour and organic pattern, ensuring no two are the same. Designed to honour the natural beauty of each stone, these pendants offer timeless appeal and lasting value.

OR11770-14Y12 - Discover true rarity with the Light Opal and Pearl Ring, featuring an authentic Australian Light Opal paired with a luminous South Sea pearl. Each opal reveals unique colour and pattern, ensuring no two rings are alike. A timeless design celebrating organic beauty, craftsmanship and one-of-a-kind appeal.

IP1228-9YG - Timeless and sophisticated, the Celia Pendant features an openable 9ct yellow gold cage that elegantly frames a white Freshwater pearl. Its polished design enhances natural lustre from every angle. With a hinged opening for interchangeable pearls, it offers refined versatility, perfect for lovers of classic pearl jewellery.

Contact: Ikecho Australia, Ph 61 2 9266 0636, cindy@ikecho.com.au, www.ikecho.com.au

BE SPOILT FOR CHOICE Modern style meets timeless appeal with BECKS open rings.

Available in solid gold or diamond-set designs, they add a contemporary silhouette, whether paired with an engagement ring or worn solo. Versatile and stackable, these rings offer exceptional value and are crafted with the quality synonymous with BECKS. Styles: J5308 and J5327.

Express your style with BECKS multi-tone and mixed metal rings.

Choose from classic best selling existing styles in two-tone gold or create a bold, contemporary look by combining gold with modern metals like zirconium or tantalum. Expertly crafted and suitable for any milestone.

Styles: 2TJ4088BB and ZRJ5315BP. BECKS Inner Spirit™ collection pays tribute to the strength, wisdom and cultural roots that shape our inner spirit, celebrating the essence of who we are with modern elegance. Available in gold, silver, natural or blackened zirconium, tantalum, platinum, and palladium, the collection suits every style, preference and occasion with affordability.

Styles: FR5248 and FR5246.

BECKS Display Ranges give you the opportunity to present a variety of best-selling gents’ ring styles in your store. Beautifully built and professionally branded, these tray units, available in two sizes, highlight the quality and craftsmanship that BECKS has delivered for 50 years.

Contact: BECKS Group Australia, Mary-Louise Squire, Toll Free 0800 443 991, MaryLouiseSquire@becksgroup.au 62 JT2026 AUTUMN

HANDS ON! Rochet Zen: HB2846. RRP $85. 8mm Blue Tigers Eye beads and Knurled Vintage Steel beads. Elastic bracelet.

Rochet Nirvana: HB683. RRP $120. 6mm Vintage Steel Beads and Tigers Eye. Adjustable.

Rochet Mysteres: HB89804. RRP $95. Elastic bracelet with 8mm Tigers Eye Quartz beads and IP Black Cross.

Rochet Mysteres: HB89801. RRP $95. Mm Black Agates and IP Black Cross.

Rochet Boreal: HB9608. RRP$120. 5.5mm Indian Agate beads and satined steel. Elastic bracelet.

Rochet Boreal: HB9606. RRP $120. Bracelet with 5.5mm Lapis Lazuli beads and satined steel. Elastic bracelet.

Rochet Boreal: HB9603. RRP $120. 5.5MM Tigers Eye Quartz and satined steel. Elastic bracelet.

Left: Add a sparkling touch to your watch with NEW YORK BY NIGHT. Its ultra-feminine metallic cowhide allows you to match the strap to the case of your watch for a chic and original look. The D’clic fastening system allows you to change it to suit your outfit. Aluminium buckle. 2mm taper. Available in champagne, gold, pink-gold, red and silver, 12-18MM. XTRA SHORT. Z 341.

Above: The premium MONZA 557 watch strap, crafted from Italian vegetable tanned pull-up leather, reveals subtle nuances with wear. Its double perforation inspired by classic derbies and its raw silk saddle-style stitching create a refined, distinctly gentleman look. 20 and 22mm, Full grained lamb lining. Satined stainless steel buckle. 2mm taper. Black, brown, navy, burgundy and honey.

Contact: Pacific Time Industries, Ph 03 356 3587, sales@watchparts.co.nz, www.pacifictime.co.nz JT2026 AUTUMN 63

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES ENCHANTING CHOICES Capture a dreamlike moment with these delicately irregular star studs from Ania Haie. Each five-point star is crafted with a freehand sensibility, lightly adorned with pave sparkle and shaped as if sketched with one line left open - inviting light and imagination to flow through. Subtle, poetic, and intentionally unfinished, they’re designed for those who find beauty in suggestion and subtle magic. Wear them alone or stack with other studs or piercings to create a constellation of your own. E074-03G. For the romantic soul who treasures life's sparkling moments. Each Ania Haie stud features an open doubleloop structure, paved with brilliant cubic zirconia stones, from which a delicate star descends adorned with sparkling accents. Light-catching and intuitively elegant, they add a touch of celestial magic to every movement - perfect for wearing alone or layering with your favourites to express your unique story. E074-10H.

This Ania Haie statement ring features a distinctive zig-zag band formed by irregularly sized, softly flattened beads, with scattered stars engraved and Pave-set with cubic zirconia that catch the light with a delicate sparkle.

Its modern yet mystical design combines geometric playfulness with celestial detail, making it ideal for wear as a standalone statement or thoughtfully layered with simpler bands. R074-02G.

Artfully arranged in a delicate, blossom-like formation, this Ania Haie bracelet brings together luminous shell pearls and brilliant cubic zirconia stones for an effect that is both refined and distinctive. Designed for those who appreciate thoughtfully curated details, it catches the light with a soft radiance and subtle sparkle. Layer it with station chains to create a look that’s uniquely yours. B074-03H.

From Thomas Sabo, a traditional symbol of protection with a modern look: this Cornicello made of 925 sterling silver is finished with bright red enamel – a colour that has always stood for luck, protection and positive energy. The elegant, twisted shape echoes the silhouette of classic amulets, which are worn to attract good fortune and ward off negativity. CCC1328RE.

As a symbol of adventure, freedom and the courage to go your own way, this Thomas Sabo charm is a charming highlight for anyone who appreciates Western style and loving craftsmanship. CCC1325.

Thomas Sabo presents a classic symbol of luck, reinterpreted: this delicate cloverleaf in 925 sterling silver is set with bright emerald green stones that give each leaf an intense shine and depth. The heart-shaped cut stones emphasise the positive, joyful aura of the motif. The four-leaf clover stands for luck, protection and good energy – a little companion that reminds you of your personal wishes and goals every day. CCC1326.

This Thomas Sabo horseshoe charm made of 925 sterling silver with bright emerald green stones brings a feeling of freedom, adventure and a deep connection to nature to your bracelet. Inspired by the world of horses, the horseshoe traditionally stands for luck and protection. CC2234.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, DGA Duraflex Group Australia, Ph 61 2 9417 0177, NZ 027 7226 000, helen@dgau.com.au 64 JT2026 AUTUMN

KEEPSAKE TREASURES

Showcasing new additions to the W&D Memento Collection, these latest designs celebrate some of Aotearoa’s most treasured native flora and fauna, including the New Zealand Fern earrings, the Ruru / Morepork and the Kārearea / New Zealand Falcon, proudly named Bird of the Year 2025.

As part of the Memento Collection’s commitment to conservation, each piece sold includes a $5 donation to Forest & Bird to help protect New Zealand’s native wildlife and natural habitats for future generations.

Contact: Worth & Douglas Ltd, Ph 0064 9 303 4666, sales@worthdouglas.co.nz, www.worthdouglas.com

FOR ALL OCCASIONS

Athan Wholesale Jewellers offers a considered collection of new huggie earrings in yellow, white and rose gold, available in both 9ct and 18ct. Combining timeless staples with more distinctive styles, the range is crafted to exceptional quality standards, offering dependable, well-made pieces.

Contact: Athan, 0061 3 9663 2321, irene@athan.co.au, www.athan.com.au

PEARL ALLURE

A fresh modern design from Devino Pearls that brings together the brilliance of black spinel with a graduated blend of lustrous Akoya and Tahitian pearls for clients who appreciate exceptional colour harmony. Total length 43cm.

Contact: Devino Pearls, Ph +61 2 9261 3555, devino@devino.com

TENNIS ANYONE?

Made from certified 100% Australian gold and set with natural mined diamonds, Palloys Natural Diamond Tennis Bracelets are now in stock and ready for immediate dispatch. Available in F/VS and GH/SI, crafted in 9ct and 18ct White or Yellow Gold and set with 2ct, 3ct, or 5ct Natural Mined Diamonds.

For a flawless finish and exceptional durability with no minimum order quantity, view the range now at palloys.com

Contact: info@palloys.com, www.palloys.com JT2026 AUTUMN 65

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES DIAMOND DELIGHTS Inspired by nature, the Wild Daisy Ring in 9ct yellow, white and rose gold features a warm 0.30ct Australian Chocolate Diamond at its centre, highlighted by a rose gold bezel. Surrounding petals of white round brilliant cut diamonds, set in white gold, add beautiful sparkle and contrast. The design is finished with yellow gold rails, creating a timeless celebration of Australian beauty and individuality.

Crafted in 18ct yellow and white gold, this elegant trilogy ring showcases a breathtaking 2.42ct round Inverell Sapphire, claw set in white gold. A round brilliant cut diamond sits on each side, also claw set, adding balance and brilliance, with a total diamond weight of 0.62cts. The design is finished with a polished yellow gold band for a timeless, refined look.

Crafted in 18ct yellow gold, this striking ring showcases a 1.10ct round brilliant cut C7 SI1 Australian Chocolate Diamond, elegantly secured in a half-bezel setting. The band is accented with grain-set round brilliant cut white diamonds, adding refined sparkle and totalling 0.32cts.

Crafted in radiant 18ct yellow gold, this elegant ring showcases a striking 2.21ct pear cut C5 SI2 Australian Chocolate Diamond. The elongated pear shape is beautifully cradled in a flowing, sculptural setting that highlights the stone’s warm champagne tones and natural brilliance. Bold yet refined, this timeless design is a captivating statement piece that celebrates the unique beauty of Australian Chocolate Diamonds.

Contact: Boltons, Ph: 0061 7 3205 6311, taraw@boltongems.com.au, www.boltongems.com.au

DIRECTORY

IMPORTERS AND WHOLESALERS OF PREMIUM GOLD, PLATINUM AND STERLING SILVER FINDINGS. • E-commerce website with pricing for easy online ordering • Quick dispatch of orders • Personal customer service • Happy to help source findings not on our website Contact Joel on 09-478 9950 or sales@nzfindings.co.nz www.nzfindings.co.nz 66 JT2026 AUTUMN

DIRECTORY

Directory Advertising $150.00 each

$300.00 each

for Standard Business Card size advertisement

for Double Standard Business Card size advertisement

$400.00

for 4 issues (1 year)

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Contact: Debbie Whiting, Jewellery Time, PO Box 46 218 Herne Bay Auckland.

Phone 0274 777 955 – www.jewellerytime.co.nz Email: debbie@inklink.co.nz

OV E R 3 00 STY L E S O F G O L D A N D S I LV E R C H A I N H E L D I N STO C K CHAIN PEARLS FINDINGS EARRINGS PENDANTS SERVICES

N Z : 0 8 0 0 8 9 2 4 3 2 AU : 1 8 0 0 5 7 1 9 6 3

w w w. p e ka . c o . nz | info @ p e ka . c o . nz JT2026 AUTUMN 67

DIRECTORY

ARGOSY Gems of wonderful colours for Design Work & Trade Repairs.

Sourcing of Gems from the cutters.

Hand Engraving, Setting, Sizing, Trade Repairs.

Prompt turn around of your Jobs.

Richard 021670145, Argosy 03 3669332 141 Holly Rd, Christchurch 8014 argosy.jewellery@gmail.com argosyjewellery.co.nz

Carl Yung Gems Ltd Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds & Semi-Precious Stones & Jewellery Fast & Reliable Cutting Services Available.

P O Box 109380, Newmarket, Auckland.

Ph: 09-623 2078 Email: info@carlyung.com

Directory Advertising $150.00 each

for Standard Business Card size advertisement

$400.00

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• Quality Akoya & Freshwater Pearls • Unique semi-precious necklaces • ESSE Marcarsite Sterling Silver jewellery

New Zealand’s leading Safe & Vault specialists.

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Bullion Safes Jewellery Safes Cash Safes Modular Vaults & Vault doors

For 40 years, Sherrington Jewellers has been restoring, resizing, remaking jewellery for the trade, and creating beautiful pieces to last a lifetime, right here in our workshop

0800 743 774 www.safeman.co.nz 68 JT2026 AUTUMN

$800.00

for 4 issues (1 year)

Contact: Debbie Whiting, Jewellery Time, PO Box 46 218 Herne Bay Auckland.

Phone 0274 777 955 – www.jewellerytime.co.nz Email: debbie@inklink.co.nz

PO Box 62, Morrinsville 3340, New Zealand E: susi@twentyfive7.co.nz P: +64 7 889 3545 I M: + 64 21 751 115

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for Double Standard Business Card size advertisement

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Star Gems & Jewe[[ery 0800 DIAMONDS / 0800 342 666 Auckland CBD – PO BOX 105000, Auckland City 1143, Auckland, New Zealand Mobile numbers: Tilak021-541151 Sahil 021-1755113 www.stargems.co.nz info@stargems.co.nz