FLAVOR IN KC

BY Cody Hogan PHOTOS BY Aaron Leimkuehler

Growing up on a cattle ranch, a cattle ranch, we never ate we never ate lamb. I think it was a leftover lamb. I think it was a leftover sentiment from the Sheep and sentiment from the Sheep and Cattle Wars of the late 19th Cattle Wars of the late 19th century in the Old West. It century in the Old West. It wasn’t until my rst restauwasn’t until my rst restaurant job in the '90s that I rant job in the '90s that I discovered meltingly tender discovered meltingly tender beer-braised lamb shanks, beer-braised lamb shanks, succulent herb-and-mussucculent herb-and-mustard-encrusted lamb racks, tard-encrusted lamb racks, and tiny little garlic-and-roseand tiny little garlic-and-rosemary-scented chops. I was mary-scented chops. I was hooked. In my zeal, I even took hooked. In my zeal, I even took some home to my sheep-averse some home to my sheep-averse family where it was greeted with family where it was greeted with muted enthusiasm—they were almuted enthusiasm—they were always supportive, even if they found ways supportive, even if they found my choices a bit eccentric. Neverthemy choices a bit eccentric. Nevertheless, I still love lamb and always love less, I still love lamb and always love sharing new preparations.

A new preparation for me is the lamb A new preparation for me is the lamb kebab. In Turkey and around the Middle East, kebab. In Turkey and around the Middle East, lamb kebabs are traditional and extremely popular lamb kebabs are traditional and extremely popular fare. ey are made with chunks of lamb or ground lamb, fare. ey are made with chunks of lamb or ground lamb, skewered on a “shish” (Turkish, meaning skewer or sword), and skewered on a “shish” (Turkish, meaning skewer or sword), and there are countless variations. In Turkey, purists don’t combine vegethere are countless variations. In Turkey, purists don’t combine vegetables on the same shish as meat, and kebabs made with ground lamb tables on the same shish as meat, and kebabs made with ground lamb normally are mixed only with salt and spicy red pepper. I am not a normally are mixed only with salt and spicy red pepper. I am not a purist, and I do love my vegetables, so I like to sneak them into the purist, and I do love my vegetables, so I like to sneak them into the mix where I can. Kebabs can easily become kofta—essentially, just Middle Eastern- avored meatballs—by shaping them into balls and leaving them o the skewer. Regardless the shape you choose, I hope you choose to add a little lamb to your life this spring and summer.

is speci c type of kebab is is speci c type of kebab is an Adana (named after the an Adana (named after the Turkish city of Adana) keTurkish city of Adana) kebab. Traditionally, the lamb bab. Traditionally, the lamb used is a fatty cut, minced by used is a fatty cut, minced by hand, but sometimes you only hand, but sometimes you only have time to pick up a pack have time to pick up a pack of ground lamb at the grocery of ground lamb at the grocery store. Better to do that, than store. Better to do that, than not cook at all. Note that when not cook at all. Note that when choosing lamb, domestic lamb choosing lamb, domestic lamb tends to be milder than that tends to be milder than that imported from New Zealand imported from New Zealand and Australia, mainly due to the and Australia, mainly due to the varieties of lamb used, so if cookvarieties of lamb used, so if cooking for those hesitant to embrace ing for those hesitant to embrace lamb, look for the domestic. If you are lamb, look for the domestic. If you are absolutely opposed to lamb, you probabsolutely opposed to lamb, you probably haven’t read this far, but you could ably haven’t read this far, but you could use this same technique with other ground use this same technique with other ground meats—even sh. meats—even sh. Begin by placing Begin by placing 1 pound of ground lamb in a roomy bowl. Season it with approximately in a roomy bowl. Season it with approximately 2 scant teaspoons of salt scant teaspoons of salt, , 1 teaspoon of ground cumin 1 teaspoon of ground cumin, 2 teaspoons of ground sumac 2 teaspoons of ground sumac, and approximately 1 tablespoon , and approximately of crushed red pepper of crushed red pepper. My favorite pepper for this is Aleppo pepper, . My favorite pepper for this is Aleppo pepper, but Urfa pepper is traditional. Cayenne is a little on the hot side, so if but Urfa pepper is traditional. Cayenne is a little on the hot side, so if you substitute that, be responsible. In the summer, when I have them, I you substitute that, be responsible. In the summer, when I have them, I like to use a like to use a generous handful of chopped fresh hot peppers generous handful of chopped fresh hot peppers from the garden instead of all the dried pepper. Finely chop a bunch of scallions or chives (yielding about one cup) and add to the bowl. Begin kneading the meat mixture like dough, kneading with vigor, squeezing the meat through your ngers until it becomes very sticky and starts

sticking to the bowl. is will take several minutes. Add a few tablespoons of ice water and knead some more. (Alternatively, you could grate an onion, collecting the juice, and use the onion and juice in place of the scallions and ice water—this adds moisture and avor.) Chill the mixture again while assembling the rest of the components. I like to serve these kebabs with marinated red onions (red onions, sliced, sprinkled with ground sumac, salt, and olive oil), a salad of fresh greens and herbs dressed with lemon and oil, tomatoes,* and atbread.

When you have everything assembled, and your grill heated, form the kebabs by dividing the meat mixture into four parts for large, fat kebabs, or smaller amounts for thinner, daintier skewers. A Turkish cook once told me that if you don’t make the kebabs smooth when you shape them, you get more crispy edges, so that’s what I do, forming the mixture onto the skewer, squeezing the meat into sausage-like shapes with ridges. In Middle Eastern grilling tradition, kebabs are grilled on a shish above the heat source (hot coals), not directly touching a grill. You can achieve a similar style heat source by removing the grates from an American-style grill and placing skewers all the way across the grill from front to back with the food directly above the heat source. In the cooler seasons, I like to cook kebabs in my replace by placing a brick in the back of the replace and resting the tips of the skewers on it, so they are suspended above the coals. You could also cook the kebabs in a preheated, very hot grill pan on the stove, balancing the skewers across the edges of the pan so they are just above the surface (not touching). is takes a little bit longer to do but works well. An oven broiler could also get the job done, but neither of those methods really imparts the avor of smoke.

Regardless of the heat source, turn the kebabs after about the rst 90 seconds of cooking, then again about 90 seconds later. is begins the protein coagulation on the surface of the meat. If you wait too long to turn the kebabs, the fats could melt, and the softened meat will fall o the skewer into the coals. After the rst few turns you can leave the kebabs undisturbed to brown on each side. Doneness is a matter of personal taste, but the time will vary considering the thickness of the kebabs and the temperature of the heat source, so use your own judgment. For fans of spice, sprinkle a little more of the cumin, sumac, and red pepper on the kebabs while cooking. During the last few minutes on the heat, place the atbread directly on the grill or directly atop the kebabs to heat and lightly toast. Serve a platter of kebabs, the breads, salads, and tomatoes and let your guests assemble their own plates.

*If your tomatoes are less than perfect, try grilling on a shish or roasting them to increase their avor, just like the Turkish do.

LAMB CAN BE a bit of a challenge to nd in our part of the Midwest. When you do nd it, it is frequently in the form of a shoulder or leg roast or some form of chop. While the roasts and legs seem daunting to many, chops are much more approachable and faster to get on the table. You just need to know what to do with which type of chop.

Shoulder Chop

These chops, normally a little less than an inch thick when found in grocery stores, are great for stovetop braises in a heavy skillet. Just season them with salt, then lightly fl our and quickly brown them in the pan. Deglaze with wine, add a dollop of tomato paste and some aromatic vegetables, stir and brown again, then add water or broth and continue cooking. The chops will take 30-40 minutes to cook, and in this time, you can adjust the fl avor profi le any way you like: add dried fruits and mustard for any way you like: add dried fruits and mustard for a Mediterranean feel, or brown sugar, soy, garlic, and a Mediterranean feel, or brown sugar, soy, garlic, and pepper paste for a little Asian infl uence. It may be necespepper paste for a little Asian infl uence. It may be necessary to add a bit of liquid occasionally if it all evaporates. The meat should just begin to pull away from the bones and be tender. Remove the chops from the sauce, and reduce the sauce to your desired consistency, adjusting the fl avor as desired. Larger chops, 2-4 inches thick, are great for braising, but you will most likely have to ask a butcher to cut those for you. Marinate with garlic, fennel pollen (or fennel powder), and crushed red pepper for an Italian feel, or spices like cumin, oregano, or coriander to take it East. Moroccan and Indian spices and spice

Rib Rack or Rib Chop

The most common chop used by European-infl uenced restaurants, the rib rack can be cooked and served as a rack, divided into two or three bone chops, or cut into single chops that cook in just a few minutes. Lamb always appreciates marinating with garlic for a few minutes (single chops) to a few hours (for larger pieces and whole racks). Add rosemary or fennel to the marinade to go full Mediterranean. For whole racks (or four-bone half racks), try briefl y searing or grilling the marinated rack, then rubbing it with mustard and topping with seasoned breadcrumbs, fi nishing it in a moderate oven or on a covered grill. For single bone chops, after a quick marinade, sear them in a scorching-hot cast-iron skillet for a minute or two on each side (for medium rare) which will create a delicious natural crust, or grill them on a very hot grill (a minute or two on each side) if you want a hint of smoke and char.

Loin or Porterhouse Chops

These tasty little chops offer a bit more chew than the rib rack chops and are much more forgiving with cooking times. Cook them for several minutes on each side, then stand them upside down on the top of the “T” of the bone end to cook the last few minutes. Marinate with garlic, fennel pollen (or fennel powder), and crushed red pepper for an Italian feel, or spices like cumin, oregano, or coriander to take it East. Moroccan and Indian spices and spice blends are great here as well.

Crossroads-based Mean Mule Distilling Co. is rooted in family legend.

The story goes that Meg Evans, who co-owns Mean Mule with her husband, Jeff, comes from a long line of distillers—ones who weren’t deterred by prohibition. Her great grandfather Fritz was running the family operation when a disgruntled customer turned him into the feds. When the revenue officers turned up on the family’s property, Fritz took off running and the revenuers set out to find the operation, discovering a building they knew had to be it. What they didn’t know was Fritz hid his equipment beneath a false floor protected by something unexpected.

“On top of the floor, he had gone and bought the meanest mule that money could buy to guard the stills,” Jeff says. “So, these two men, these two revenuers in their arrogance—and really their ignorance— kick open this door and come face-to-face with 1,500 pounds of mean Missouri fury. Within two minutes, one man was dragging the other one down the road, and they never came back.”

Back then, the family was making corn whiskeys and fruit brandies using items available on the farm, but the latest generation of distillers has taken a different approach—agave spirits. When Mean Mule launched in 2016, it became one of the first U.S. companies focusing solely on agave spirits, sourcing organic agave from Jalisco, Mexico, which is broken down into nectar and shipped to KC.

Mean Mule’s product line includes a range of easy-to-drink spir-

its, from light and refreshing unaged Silver, perfect for palomas, to the more mature Heritage, aged a minimum of one year in Missouri white-oak barrels and released in yearly batches. But never ones to rest on their laurels, the Evanses recently introduced the first agave-based gin in the country.

“We’re a little crazy,” Jeff says with a laugh, but beyond wanting to do something out of the box, Mean Mule aimed to showcase agave’s versatility with the gin. In a traditional take, the neutral grain spirit can come across as spicy and hard, whereas agave offers a smoother, more floral base.

Using vapor distillation, Mean Mule imparts botanicals found on the family farm to give the gin its flavor, including juniper berry, coriander, cardamom, white pepper, and persimmon, which adds a unique stone-fruit quality.

“It tastes like honey, it tastes like melon,” Jeff says. “It’s a lot of things all together—it turned out really well.”

The gin is prominently featured on the cocktail menu you’ll find at Mean Mule’s tasting room, which takes inspiration from Western culture with a modern twist, like the rest of the distilling company’s brand. In addition to being able to try a flight of all the spirits, guests can enjoy beers, wines, mocktails, classic cocktails, and seasonal offerings, which currently include the Strawberry Roan.

“Strawberry Roan is a song by a guy named Marty Robbins, and it just so happens that it’s also a flower, and our entire menu this season is based on flowers that grow in the Midwest, so it really worked out perfectly,” Jeff says. “And if you’ve never listened to any Marty Robbins, I highly recommend.” meanmuledistilling.co

1½ ounces Mean Mule Gin 3 fresh strawberries ¾ ounce fresh lemon juice ¾ ounce agave syrup ½ ounce aquafaba*

Muddle strawberries in a cocktail shaker. Add gin, lemon juice, agave syrup, and aquafaba. Add crushed ice and shake. Double strain cocktail into a coupe. Garnish with a sage leaf.

*Aquafaba is the liquid from cooking garbanzo beans. At Mean Mule, they use the beans to make hummus!

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MOTHER CLUCKER

PARLOR FAVORITE Mother Clucker is turning up the heat with its rst standalone location in Shawnee, where owners Derrick and Kylie Foster have long been keeping an eye out for the right space. e new restaurant will o er signi cantly more room than their current food-hall stall and will allow them to turn out more food, says Derrick, adding that the Shawnee location will also serve as a model as the Fosters look to start franchising the concept. Mother Clucker currently serves up fried chicken tenders and sandwiches, a boneless breast and a standout sandwich, the Comeback, available at six di erent spice levels, plus loaded fries and shakes. e Shawnee location will feature the same menu, as well as softserve ice cream and a patio when it opens later this summer. mothercluckeroffi cial.com

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OVERLAND PARK FARMERS MARKET

AFTER ENDURING yet another unpredictable Midwest winter, being able to again peruse a farmers market in the late-spring sun feels like an invaluable gift. And at the Overland Park Farmers Market, that gift just got a little bigger. Now in its 40th year, the market opened in mid-April with an expanded footprint, spreading from the farmers market pavilion out into the nearby parking lots and onto Marty Street. The change provides more space between stalls, plus additional parking and restrooms to make the market experience better for shoppers and vendors alike. What hasn’t changed? The top-notch vendors, including Food Life Joy, Bird’s Botanicals, and Hemme Brothers Creamery. Check them out—along with many, many more—on Saturdays, and stay tuned for the Wednesday market, which will begin on June 1. opkansas. org/recreation-fun/farmers-market

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RIVER BLUFF BREWING

KANSAS CITY’S BREWING SCENE just got a new addition: River Bluff Brewing. The brewery is based in St. Joseph, where co-founders Chris Lanman and Edison Derr launched in 2018, serving traditional styles in a relaxed, convivial atmosphere. Now the team has opened a second location in River Market, where you’ll find River Bluff in the historic Kansas City Water building once used to house the wagons, donkeys, and water to fight fires in the city. In addition to flagship beers, the KC location features exclusive brews, such as the light and easy to drink Townley Blonde Ale and the well-balanced KC Common. Beer not your thing? Guests can also find offerings from KC Cider Co., KC Wineworks, and Guys Snacks, plus a pup-friendly patio. riverbluffbrew.com

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by Kelsey Cipolla photos by Aaron Leimkuehler

Few places on earth take barbecue more seriously than Kansas City. In a town where sauces, rubs, and cooking techniques are carefully scrutinized and compared to legendary establishments that have been in the business of barbecue for decades, is there any room for a newcomer?

Buck Tui makes it clear the answer is a resounding yes, if the packed tables during the Overland Park restaurant’s first week of dine-in service are any indication. That might be because it brings a new perspective to Kansas City, with restaurateur and chef Ted Liberda melding local barbecue with the flavors and traditions of Northeastern Thai cuisine.

Buck Tui steadily ramped up, first serving at the Overland Park Farmers Market last year then hosting pop-ups and offering carry-out from the restaurant before finally opening its dining room in mid-March. The space is lively, with neutral wood-toned floors, colorful orange-red booths, a sprinkling of houseplants and an alterna-pop playlist. Shortly after opening, it understandably still feels like a work in progress, albeit one in capable hands.

Fortunately, the smoked meats don’t need much to shine: Slices of

Salt Creek Farms brisket marinated in sh sauce and cooked until they’re so tender, the meat falls o your fork; a half or whole Gerber Amish Chicken submerged for 48 hours in a lemongrass-and-coriander brine and cooked until golden brown; and succulent St. Louis-style Duroc pork ribs slathered with a sweet chili glaze. Buck Tui also serves a tasty pulled pork; avor-packed Issan-style ai sausage featuring dill, cilantro, lemongrass, makrut lime, and sh sauce; and barbecue-rubbed, cold-smoked shrimp, which takes on a meaty texture akin to lobster tail that makes them extra satisfying.

Liberda’s smoked meats are rivaled only by the Tiger Cry sauce they’re served with. e thin sauce resembles a chimichurri, and it is packed with herbaceous avor, but the condiment is also citrusy and a little sweet, with a seriously spicy punch that leaves your lips tingling even as you reach for the next bite. Dishes are also served with a house barbecue sauce, which has a little less body than you’d expect from a KC sauce and more tomato avor, although it’s still a tasty addition. e meats are available on their own, or diners can enjoy them on a barbecue plate, which includes one or two choices of meat, plus a crunchy and refreshing papaya slaw, pickles, and a side of rice that is lightly seasoned and u y, capturing more attention than it has any logical right to.

Other dishes meld barbecue and ai avors in more obvious ways. ink fried egg rolls lled with brisket, cream cheese, and scallions and smoked whole chicken wings with sh sauce and butterscotch—a combo that tastes much better than it might initially sound. Buck Tui noodles feature pulled pork alongside egg noodles, bean sprouts, and fried garlic, while the Khao Poon brisket pairs the protein with coconut curry and local veggies.

Buck Tui is also serving Sunday brunch, with some dishes nding their footing more solidly than others. In the smoked-beef short-rib hash, chunks of parsnip are unevenly cooked, as is the short rib served with onion, mushrooms, arugula and a crispy egg. It’s not a bad dish, just one that fails to show o ingredients to their full potential. Luckily, the farmers market breakfast burrito, a holdover from the OP days, remains as delicious as ever, with barbecue pork, cheese, smoked peppers and onions, scrambled eggs, gai-lan (Chinese broccoli), and a creamy version of the Tiger Cry sauce snuggly wrapped in a Yoli Tortilleria tortilla. Smoked meats and barbecue plates are also served during brunch, along with a sweet and nutty ai iced co ee with coconut milk and a lineup of cocktails from beverage director Matsumoto Mari.

Drinks include the Smokey Teddy, Buck Tui’s signature Bloody Mary named for the restaurant’s chef-owner and made with ai barbecue sauce, the restaurant’s spice rub, and an elaborate garnish involving one of those cold-smoked shrimp, as well as a more standard bloody, a michelada, and a take on the mimosa made with guava nectar. Guava also features prominently in early cocktail standout the Guavarita, made with guava purée, tequila, lime, agave, and dry curaçao.

Mari’s drinks bring out the food’s vibrant avors and shine a light on what makes the concept special—in a city full of barbecue joints, Buck Tui is bringing something fresh and fun to the table. bucktuibbq.com A spectacular, contemporary venue with transformable reception spaces and a magnificent courtyard. 1900bldg.com (913) 730–1905

Modern-American cuisine from award-winning Chef Linda Duerr. Chef Duerr and team present elegant fare and carefully curated menus for a variety of special occasions. therestaurantat1900.com (913) 730–1900

1900 Building 1900 Shawnee Mission Parkway Mission Woods, Kansas