Australia’s top two Indian restaurants

Two Indian restaurants have won hats in the 2019 Restaurant Chef Hat Awards organised by the Australian Good Food Guide

BY RAJNI ANAND LUTHRA

Manjit’s @ The Wharf

When well-known restaurant brand Manjit’s launched their new dining sensation Manjit’s @ The Wharf in Barrangaroo, its chef, scion Varun Gujral, told Indian Link he’d like to win a Chef’s hat.

“But that will be a long time away,” he had qualified his statement hurriedly, adding humbly, “There’s so much learning to do before then.”

That was three whole years ago, in 2016, and the then 28-year-old was taking on his first role as head chef.

Varun has grown considerably since then, in confidence as well as experience, having stamped in the family-owned business as one to reckon with in the Indian restaurant scene in Sydney.

The daring young chef’s exciting take on age-old favourites is pushing the boundaries of Indian cuisine, as he spearheads innovation in technique as well as presentation. The Eggplant Takatak is but one of his works of art that has been Instagrammed repeatedly – the drama of the cloched baingan bharta never failing to lighten the mood around a table. Similarly, Varun’s pie-style Biryani also brings a smile to the face as it is laid out in front of you. To flavour your scallops, he presents you with your choice of 17 different powdered spices arranged in an ‘artist’s palette’ formation.

Other experiments have been equally popular. Lotus root mash. Powdered beetroot. Street-style chaat presented in an ice cream-style cone. Imli (tamarind) martinis. In mango pistachio kulfi, two perennial favourite kulfi flavours combined in one tall spire, standing in a delicately flavoured sauce.

Equally solid has been the contribution of his brother Deep Gujral, who takes the Manjit brand out to the community in his role as events coordinator. “Corporate events, community-based functions, weddings … we’ve earned a reputation for them all,” Deep tells Indian Link "My own favourites, I must confess, are weddings. I love going through with a young couple, the process of planning their special day, and then executing. It’s hugely rewarding when it all concludes satisfactorily. It’s also resulted in some great friendships. I’ve just had lunch with a friend, whose little son’s birthday we are hosting. This will be the third generation in the family for who we have been hosting events, over a 35-year period!”

Deep and Varun have done much for the family business, taking it up several notches with their fresh approach to it all – and with their first Chef’s Hat.

The Gujral family’s love of food has been apparent also in its numerous appearances vindaloo dishes, the Gujrals have helped acquire a more nuanced appreciation of Indian cuisine.

“Where else in Sydney would the President of India have dined,” wrote a regular patron under Manjit’s Facebook post describing President Kovind’s special request to visit the restaurant.

Master restaurateur Manjit Gujral started off in the industry in 1982 with his first restaurant in Potts Point. It then moved to Balmain, where it functions to this day, making it the oldest running Indian restaurant in Australia. The family then launched the Concord Function Centre, before taking up the Barrangaroo venue. A new city-based venue is on the cards, Deep reveals, for which three new chefs are being brought in from India for specialist Indian cuisines.

Manjit and his wife Kanwal keep an eagle eye on the operations and management of the various arms of the company. A devout Sikh, Manjit tells Indian Link about this latest recognition, “It has been the blessings of the Almighty which has allowed us to share our passion with the Australian and Indian community at large. Kanwal and I could not be prouder of the achievements of our boys, and of the full family of Manjit staff.”

“We couldn’t have done it without the team at Manjit’s,” Varun echoes his dad, adding, “and the support of the community.”

The determination in his voice is unmistakable as he adds, “This is but the start of things to come.”

We’re standing by.