From the old world charm of Launceston and a hike through the Bay of Fires, this state has something for everyone

BY PETRA O’NEILL

The Bay of Fires walk along Tasmania’s gentler east coast was, until recently, confined either to experienced hikers lugging their own weighty gear, or a high-end deluxe option of staying at an award-winning lodge. That’s all changed now due to an affordable three day walk offered by Life’s an Adventure.

The tour departs from Launceston, a city in itself well deserving of a stay. In 1798, the explorers Bass and Flinders sighted the Tamar estuary where Launceston was founded in 1805. As Australia’s third oldest city, it boasts the highest concentration of 19th century colonial buildings in the country, with fine examples of Georgian buildings, built by convict labour, as well as Regency and Victorian architecture. Displaying simple elegance and fine proportions, the imposing Customs House, Post Office and Albert Hall are impressive, while City Park is a delightful 12 hectare retreat with magnificent elms

Inn, built in 1824 was where John Batman agreed to cross Bass Strait to the mainland and establish a village that later became Melbourne.

Finding an appealing restaurant, I said aloud, “this looks good! “Well, it is if you think ‘best seafood restaurant in Tasmania since 2009’ counts!” replied Stewart the owner. Handing me a long menu that offered some of the best seafood you are likely to experience in Australia, he went on to list that day’s menu of the freshest mussels, clams, abalone, flathead, flounder, garfish, salmon, tiger prawns and seafood platters. With its compact size and relative isolation, Launceston is a relaxed provincial town, well suited for walking, with locals offering help with directions at every turn. Set amongst steep cliffs, Cataract Gorge has walking tracks, a historic suspension bridge and peacocks roaming in Victorian gardens. At a jetty, a boat filled with a chatty load of tourists disembarked. What a fantastic excursion they said, which was endorsement enough for me. I immediately booked the afternoon cruise up the Tamar River, which was to go past an island sanctuary of birds, convict built churches, grand homesteads, wineries and farms. With tea, muffins, fresh wine, the leisurely cruise upstream provided a wonderful introduction to northern Tasmania.

The scenic drive from Launceston north east to the Bay of Fires within Mt William National Park was a distance of 156kms, and took us past wineries and lavender farms, forests, rolling hills and picturesque former tin mining villages. And all with a noticeable absence of vehicles on the road. On arrival at the pick-up point we were greeted by our guides Sarah and Barry, who had prepared our picnic lunch. Sarah loaded our bags onto the transport vehicle and set off for the campsite to it make ready for our arrival, while we commenced our walk.

The Bay of Fires was named in 1773 by Captain Tobias Furneaux from the British Navy, after he observed the many campfires burning along the shoreline. Lit by the aboriginals who lived here, middens or remnants of long-discarded shellfish feastings accumulated over thousands of years, lie scattered in piles along the coastline.

As far as the eye can see, the beach stretched out before us. And for the next 12kms near an area on the map known as Stumpys Bay, we trudged along at a comfortable, yet steady pace on fine sand that was soft underfootm as waves lapped hiking boots. We enjoyed the remote wilderness and the contrast of the sapphire coloured sea. The water was so clear that it resembled glass, and the white sand was blinding, set next to granite boulders splashed with burnt orange-coloured lichen and rocky headlands.

We clambered over Boulder Point and Cobbler Rocks across coastal heaths, watching out for the elusive Forester Kangaroo, spotting only wallabies grazing on grass instead. I took off my shoes to walk barefoot, the fine sand squeezing between my toes. Sea birds flew overhead and Barry signalled that it was time to wade across Deep Creek to reach our campsite, a misnomer since the clear stream is shallow. We had the place to ourselves and hadn’t seen another hiker all day.

Our group of seven were all reasonably fit, spanning all ages from Rose in her late 20s who was accompanying her mother, to Bill and Edna in their 70s.

On arrival at our bush campsite we found Sarah laying out the final touches to our communal dining table, our tents with comfy camp beds already set up. An inquisitive Bennett’s Wallaby came to the perimeter of my tent, wiggled its nose and hopped away. With an open campfire, wine and a delicious dinner using locally sourced ingredients that included pancakes, berries and clotted cream, we all soon fell soundly asleep.

At 5.30am I woke and with Sarah and Barry yet to stir, I set to task preparing the essential prerequisites for my day; strong coffee and a large kettle of hot water for a bush shower of sorts.

After a hearty breakfast, we set off to

Eddystone Point Lighthouse

built in 1889 from locally sourced pink stone on a point that juts out to sea, where we refuelled with coffee and banana muffins, before continuing south. With commanding coastal views, this section of the walk is also home to a variety of wildlife including wombats and echidnas and while we didn’t spot the timid Tasmanian devil, Barry showed us their tracks in the sand. The beach then turned to flat black rocks, more difficult to cross. With today’s walk of 14kms, it was time for a lunch of juice, fruit and wraps that we’d filled with an assortment of salads before setting off. A pair of sea eagles circled overhead.

Cutting inland along a bush track across a section of coastal heath with wildflowers in bloom, we spotted honeyeaters, blue wrens, finches, and kookaburras before returning to the beach to arrive at Ansons Bay, and the Beach Shack built on the water’s edge, with views across the bay.

Sarah greeted us with a flurry of activity as she brought trays of dips, marinated capsicum and tomatoes, assorted local cheeses, biscuits and wine to the large communal dining table. As the sun began to set, we enjoyed a dinner of Tasmanian local produce, including salads, curry, grilled vegetables and freshly caught fish.

The shack was incredibly comfortable, while we watched the embers of a cosy log fire. We progressively turned in early, though I was unable to sleep.

corner of the world, the heavens are clear. I ventured outside looking skywards, walking to the water’s edge. The moon was huge, shooting stars were visible and the unmistakable Southern Cross and Milky Way were brilliantly clear. The surface of the silver coloured sea shimmered in the moonlight.

Next morning, Sarah was up early, having already made a cooked breakfast, as well as providing yoghurt, muesli and sliced fruit. We made our lunch wraps and set off on the final 11kms of the walk. With a stop for lunch we explored rock pools and enjoyed a swim in the calm water. We met Sarah and drove to the picturesque small town of St Helens, which was to an end.

Weeks after, I can still recall the fine white sand and waves of foam lapping at my ankles, the vast empty beaches and the brilliant night sky, as I spun around slowly in awe, dressed in my PJ’s. Such a

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Tasmania

GETTING T h E r E

Jetstar, Qantas and Virgin Australia have domestic flights to Launceston. Watch for specials.

G ETTING A rou N d

With its compact size and relative isolation, launceston is a relaxed provincial town, well suited for walking, with locals offering help with directions at every turn

Clockwise from top left: Bennett’s wallaby Beach shack

Bay of Fires

Soaking in the bay’s views

Setting off Anson’s Bay Author Beach shack dining under the stars

Tasmania lays claim to the world’s best walking destination with hundreds of walking tracks. The best way to experience Tasmania is to walk it. Life’s an Adventure offers affordable fully escorted walking tours including the 3 day Bay of Fires walk, with knowledgeable and friendly guides, great food, wine and comfy beds. T: 61 2 9913 8939 E: enquiries@lifesanadventure.com.au

W: www.lifesanadventure.com.au

In Launceston, Tamar River Cruises offers several cruises with commentary. T: 61-3- 63349900 E: info@tamarivercruises.com.au

W: www.tamarrivercruises.com.au

AccommodATI o N

The Grand Chancellor Hotel is the tour pick up point with recently refurbished rooms and central location.

T: 61 3 6334 3434

E: reservations@hgclaunceston.com.au W: www.grandchancellorhotels.com.au

Next door, the Batman Fawkner Inn offers budget rooms T: 61 3 63319951 E: manager@batmanfawknerinn.com

W: www.batmanfawknerinn.com

Wh E r E To EAT

Dine at one of Tasmania’s best restaurants at Hallam’s Waterfront with a lovely outlook on the Tamar River. Stillwater River Cafe offers modern Australian cuisine in a restored flourmill built in the 1830s.

Fur T h E r INF ormATI o N

W: www.parks.tas.gov.au and www.discovertasmania.com.au

I N s I d E r TIP s

Weather in Tasmania is notoriously unpredictable, so pack a rain jacket and fleecy gear, though for the days I was there it remained gloriously sunny. Wear sunglasses and a hat. The white sand is very reflective. For hiking, worn-in sturdy footwear is essential. The best months are October to April.