Delhi chalo!

Seven historic cities have contributed their legacy to the now ultra-modern metropolis

Welcome to Delhi!” says the smiling officer at the Indian capital’s new international airport. Being unused to receiving such a convivial reception from Indian airport officials, I was surprised as I walked into Delhi after a gap of 15 years, and guess what? More surprises awaited me as I walked out of the airport with my luggage within just twenty minutes after landing! While experiencing difficulty absorbing this massive, but positive change, it made me wonder for a moment if Delhi airport was in some sort of performance competition with its counterpart in Singapore?

Yes, India is changing as fast as one of the most progressive nations of the world. And there are many signs of this in the capital, from the ultra modern international airport, and the efficient metro railway system, to a galaxy of glittering shopping malls, five star hotels, high- rise office blocks, and modern residential condominiums crowding every corner of this ever-expanding metropolis. And that’s not even mentioning the Mercedes, BMWs, Hondas and Toyotas, all manufactured in India, which fill the road space, while hoards of Nokia and Sony products draw consumer attention, and fast food outlets of McDonalds and KFC continue to surface on every corner. However, my mission to the thousand-year-old city this time is more to discover its glory filled antiquity, rather than savouring its 21st century attributes. So I set out for a hands-on experience with history with the help of my omniscient companion Asif Hussain from Secrets of India, a Delhi based tour operator specialising in unfolding hidden treasures of an enriched land to visitors.

Delhi is often referred to as a ‘City of Cities’ because today’s metropolis boasts of an ensemble of seven historic settlements, each built and developed by conquerors from central Asia who, since the 11th century, were attracted to this land by its amazing wealth.

The first city surfaced in 1192 when Qutbuddin Aibak established Qila Rai Pithora, around today’s Mehrauli Park, as the capital of the Mamluk dynasty. The most important archaeological remains from that period is the red sandstone built 73 metre high Qutb Minar. Undoubtedly this World Heritage site is the most tourist-infected one within the city, and the setting and architecture of this soaring monument won’t disappoint anyone.

Delhi’s second city was built by Alauddin Khilji in 1303 at a place called Siri where nothing remains other than the ruins of a crumbling rampart and a tomb, dotted within a green field used mainly by locals as a private hideout, or an afternoon resting place.

Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq, the flag bearing monarch of the Tughlaq dynasty, built the fortified town of Tughluqabad, the third city in 1321. With its battered walls of grey rubble perched on desolate hills where its position gives it a natural advantage, Tughluqabad is located 8km east of the Qutb Minar and was raised as a stronghold, rather than as an architectural enterprise. It is an irregular rectangle with over 6 km of fortification. The citadel is still intact and the original palace walls can be discerned, despite the rest being in ruins.

Not far from here is Jahanpanah, the fourth city built in 1325 by Ghiyasuddin’s successor Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq. Nothing much remains of the old colony and now the main attraction of the locale is the imposing Begumpuri Mosque featuring 44 domes, 24 arched openings and an imposing doorway.

Feroze Shah Tughlaq, another successor from the Tughlaq dynasty built Ferozabad around 1351, the fifth city, which is located across the road from Delhi’s main cricket ground. The most significant exhibit here within the decrepit ramparts and structures is Mauryan King Ashoka’s polished stone pillar which stands as a symbol of pride among Indians. There are also ruins of a mosque where it is said the Mongol conqueror Timur Long used to attend Friday prayers, and a gateway called ‘Khuni Darwaza,’ or ‘Bloodstained doorway.’ It was here that a British soldier shot dead the last Mughal Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar’s two sons, and a grandson in 1857 after crushing the Sepoy Mutiny, India’s first battle for independence. The British had earlier captured the aging Emperor and brought an end to the colourful Mughal dynasty that ruled India from Delhi since the early 16th century. While trundling there, chapters from Last Mughal, a bestseller from the celebrated Delhi-based Scottish writer William Dalrymple came to mind. were one of the greatest medieval dynasties.

They introduced a stable political system in India, patronised art and culture, bequeathed the land with architectural splendours and made Delhi famous to the world. Their legacies are evident throughout Delhi from several thoroughfares named after the Emperors such as Akbar Road and Aurangzeb Road, with every quaint quarter sprinkled with forts, bazaars, packed with their memorabilia. There is even a Mughal Garden inside the British-built Rashtrapati Bhavan and the Presidential Palace at Raisina Hill. As I go through some of these memoirs, Asif aptly titles this part of our journey as ‘Walking with the Mughals.’

During the Mughal era two cities were built: the Purana Qila (Old Fort) and Shahjahanabad, now better known as Old Delhi. This houses the famous Red Fort, Jama Masjid and Chandni Chowk, all sponsored by Shah Jahan, the fifth Emperor of the celebrated dynasty.

Humayun, the second Mughal Emperor built the Purana Qila as a grand citadel in the 16th century and made it the capital of his empire. An ardent religious man, he called his city ‘Dinpanah’ or ‘Asylum of Faith.’ He was ousted from his kingdom in 1540 by Afghan King Sher Shah, who strengthened the fortifications and added new structures, many of which still remain in good condition such as the mosque, gateways and a library. After five years, Humayun recaptured the fort and ruled from there for the next 11 years till he fell down the stairs in the library building and died. His tomb, located nearby, is an architectural marvel and a ‘must see’ for any visitor to Delhi.

Unquestionably, Shahjahanabad has been considered by historians and ancient travellers alike, as the grandest of all of Delhi’s ancient cities. Built around 1638, it was surrounded by a massive wall with 14 gates to access the city of which three: Delhi, Turkman and Ajmeri, still exist. A graceful and highly cultured lifestyle was nurtured by merchants, traders, courtesans, artists and poets living in the lanes and alleyways of the walled quarter. Wandering through these gives us a sense of

Chandni Chowk (which was originally designed as a wide boulevard, but is now heavily crowded with pedestrians and all sorts of vehicles) and those surrounding the Jama Masjid still retain some of the Central Asian souk-like atmosphere. And the Red Fort which stands as a silent witness to many episodes that fill in the pages of Indian history, still draws large numbers of visitors each day to view its Royal Quarters.

The misty air of Shahjahanabad is flavoured by the irresistible aroma of Mughlai food. Asif takes me to Karim’s, one of Delhi’s oldest and most authentic eateries for sampling recipes that have descended from the kitchens of the Mughals. While sampling mouth-watering kababs, biryani and korma, ‘Walking with the Mughals’ ends for me in a gastronomically enjoyable fashion, akin to ‘Eating like the Mughals.’

Lal Qila the redstone battlement

Clockwise bottom: World heritage listed Qutb Minar Ruins of Ferozabad

The ruins of Purana Qila from lakeside

Purana Qila

A 17th century monument

The first city surfaced in 1192 when Qutbuddin

Aibak established Qila Rai Pithora, around today’s Mehrauli Park, as the capital of Mamluk dynasty