narrow alleys, but abundant charm Despite being tourist destinations, Bratislava and Salzburg retain their old world

was now defunct, independent Slovakia suffered from neglect with cobblestones on streets peeling off, plastic bags, cigarette butts, spit and newspapers scattered everywhere, as we would see in Meerut and Los Angeles.

Beauty

Our cruise continued as we woke up one morning, pleasantly Brilliant, our luxury boat, was already docked in the Danube right in the heart of the Bratislava city.

“Dobiri Den, Pani!” I greeted our guide cheerfully in whatever I remembered 30-odd years later. “Yak se máté?” Her mouth fell open as I spoke to her in Česky, and with typical suspicion of the region, the lady never made eye contact with me, an obvious non-European, the whole day or answered my questions.

The tight alleys of the old city had boutiques, coffee houses and eating places galore, full of old-world charm and character as is any other old city of Europe. Some of us who complained of claustrophobia, were curtly reminded by the guide that if we wanted to see wide promenades, we had better stay home!

We were driven past Bratislava’s majestic buildings such as Parliament House, International Railway Station, Town Hall, among others, which the Kings of the past had constructed to truly royal specifications. The expansive Churchill Square, which formed the new City Centre, and from where a gorgeous looking Elizabeth Bridge rises to connect the City of Buda with the City of Pest, were magnificent.

The city has grown hundredfold since I visited it in 1978, and we walked past squares where various statues of Russian leaders still stand tall. The consonants of the language on street corners and banners was different to the mainstream Česky taught to me by a diplomat’s wife in New Delhi, before I was posted to Czechoslovakia. I asked an English speaking local why, and he stated that since the Czech Republic and Slovakia were now separate countries, additions and deletions to original Česky were inducted to make the Slovakian language distinct.

Vienna being just beyond the border, there actually was a tram service between these these two cities before Russia invaded Czechoslovakia in December 1968.

Notwithstanding, I noticed with regret that since the fear of the communistic penal system

We lunched at a local restaurant where the food overflowed with Bavarian overtones, basically würst und kartofeln, and beer. After lunch, while some of us enjoyed rides in tourist trams, some visited the Palladium department store to buy souvenirs.

The next morning, the Brilliant was already moored in Passau, a second century town at the foot of the snow-capped European Alps which we photographed profusely. Of the choices to visit, most of us chose Salzburg. On the coach trip there, we stopped at a small village in which we visited the famous Tiniest Chapel in the world - barely five meters square. Even when miles away, we realised that Salzburg was no more a small town of 2 sq/m, where people walked to get everywhere. It is now a metropolis, and it took us hours driving past the suburbs to reach the inner city.

The first world-renowned location we saw was the hexagonal enclosure in a huge garden, where Liesel Von Trapp and her Nazi boyfriend sang-danced that famed number: “I am sixteen – going on seventeen ...” in the movie, Sound of Music. Our very thoughtful guide had printouts of the lyrics, and over taped music that she played, we sang-danced like Liesel and the Nazi boy! Liesel actually suffered an ankle sprain during that dance, the guide related.

Mirabel Castle in Kapuzinnerberg was Prince Eugene’s abode centuries ago, and still stood tall, shimmering white in the sunshine. But the once manicured Mirabel Gardens at the Castle was disappointing with brown patches and untended dead bloom. We strolled past fanciful buildings, promenades, cramped shopping alleys and buildings adorned with decorative architecture, till we were finally in Mozart Square.

The larger than life-size statue of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, pedestalled so musically high in the middle of the Square waved at us and brought back old memories. In various alleys were parked many two-horse droshkys that entertain visitors from 6am to midnight everyday. Multilingual drivers, in typically Austrian feathered-caps and fanciful attire, would take you on a ride for 15 minutes at just Euro 20. On our ride, our aged driver with a silky-white Rajasthani moustache greeted us with, “Namaste!” and also, “Aap kaise hain?” He earned a good tip!

The Square had benches for tourists to rest, with eateries around its periphery. Youthful damsels in lacy skirts and cheeks like cherries walked around selling contagious smiles and over-priced souvenirs. There were wild pigeons galore, foraging for food.

Two hundred meters beyond the Square stood the Hohensalzburg Fortress in all its majesty, which seemingly kept a protective eye over Mozart and adding definite charm to its allure. The Hohensalzburg of today boasts a fast elevator: to the top in a minute.

One may roam the Fortress, enjoy quartets playing Mozart music at street corners, their capssoliciting appreciation in currency from any part of the world. We photographed the 360 degrees panorama the region offered.

We enjoyed an Austrian meal at a huge underground, yet well lit, restaurant. Only one beer or a glass of red per person, and we paid exorbitant prices for any more.

The only item that sold like hot cakes in the markets was a truly delicious ‘Mozart’ dark chocolate, his image printed on wrappers. These were cheaper in Europe than at home, and we went into a buying frenzy. Rose and I wondered why we Indians, who pay so much lip-service to India, cannot keep India as neat and clean as was Salzburg. And, before we knew, our guides were announcing it was time to head back to the Brilliant.