An understated India for Vera Wang

BY TALIA kAUR

New York Fashion Week (6-13 September) this year saw designers attract inspiration from all corners of the world. It was no different for globally renowned American fashion designer Vera Wang. She is usually well known for her haute couture bridal gowns and classy high fashion garments, but the designer brought something a little different to the runway at the show.

For her spring 2013 collection, Wang drew inspiration from the colours, materials and embroidery of India. She showcased the signature look of the ‘Nehru collar’ and ‘choli jacket’, as well as plenty of gold detailed embroidery and brocade.

Wang’s collection was delicate and magical. Her garments invoked everything about India – beautiful, bright colours, gorgeous silhouettes and intricate embroidery – without being too decorative or elaborate. She said that her Indian-inspired collection transcends saris and Bollywood, which are usually identified with Indian fashion.

“The collection is out of India, but India is just the starting point,” Wang said in a backstage interview. “There is no belly dancing, there are no sarongs, there are no saris. It is about the sort of discipline about Indian men’s clothes like Nehru jackets, against the mystery and sensuality of Indian women — but not literally. It’s not Bollywood.”

It was a spectacular display of luxurious textures and details, and gold was definitely a recurring colour in the collection. There was everything from gold embroidery and goldjewelled brocade to goldhammered bullion skirts and dresses.

Wang’s collection started out with crisp white skirts – layered, full length, pleated and even tulipshaped. These were paired with tops in embroidered soutache, which looks like braided lace, but is a little thicker. It then went on to show a little more intensity – there were complicated lace trousers, silk and lace dresses, heavily embroidered sleeveless tops and slim-fitting bermuda shorts. There were even fitted canvas jackets and sleeveless tailored jackets, which were a bit more obvious than the other garments in their allusion to India, but still not so much that it looked like a Bollywood stage.

All Wang’s designs displayed various shades of bright purple, turquoise, deep blue, white and emerald green.

Vera Wang’s fashion show definitely ended with a bang: a stunning line of v-neck embroidered gowns.

For her spring 2013 collection, Wang drew inspiration from India and its first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru

“It is about the sort of discipline about Indian men’s clothes like Nehru jackets, against the mystery and sensuality of Indian womenbut not literally”

Vera Wang