Mekong Musing on

BY PETRA O’NEILL

Cambodia is a land of contrasts – an ancient civilisation with the majestic temples of Angkor; the loss of the country’s cultural elite as a consequence of atrocities committed by Pol Pot; the serenity of a Buddhist temple; and the raucous din of tooting trucks and tuk tuks.

One of the most beautiful countries in South East Asia, it is a destination to which I fondly return. This time I continued my journey on the Mekong River that winds through six countries from China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, the confluence of the Bassac, Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers, and one of South East Asia’s most charming cities. Broad tree-lined boulevards, French colonial architecture interspersed with domed Buddhist stupas and a smattering of buildings included the Railway Station and Central Market reflecting the Art Deco style. The French influence is still evident with cafés serving baguettes, croissants and coffee.

Wandering along the grand halls of the National Museum provided an overview in the Khmer aesthetic with giant statues dating from the 8th century. Next door is the Royal Palace with its magnificent Throne Hall and Silver Pagoda.

The historic Raffles Hotel Le Royal is lovely with well-heeled tourists lounging by the poolside, some never leaving the confines

Pavilion Hotel, once home to a Cambodian princess and now an exquisite boutique hotel, spending my days exploring on foot many of the neighbourhoods close by and enjoying wonderful Khmer Amok curry at Sugar Palm.

On my final morning I walked along the riverside promenade, past locals engaged in Tai Chi and vendors setting up their carts to sell drinks and snacks. Then along came an elephant, which in any other context would appear quite extraordinary, but in such a city of enchantment, seems not out of place.

I joined the RV Tonle Pandaw for a cruise upstream destined for Siem Riep. While Pandaw Cruises commenced operations on the Mekong in 2003, many other companies now cater to the increasing number of travellers who prefer a more relaxed way of travelling between Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam and Siem Riep in Cambodia. Compagnie Fluviale du Mekong and Bassac are boutique, while larger ships include the Jayavarman, Jahan, La Marguerite and AmaLotus. The RV Tonle Pandaw is reminiscent of the original Burmese paddle steamers built by the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company. Beautifully hand finished in brass and teak with rattan furnishings and an informal ambience, it cruised at a leisurely pace.

We cast off with most of my time spent on the Observation Deck that provides an uninterrupted panoramic view of life on the river - rice fields, Pagodas, riverside towns and villages that come into view.

We took an excursion on a small boat up the Tonle Sap River to discover the vast wetlands and its many fish traps. We travelled by ox cart to Kampong Tralach Pleu Pagoda with outstanding mural paintings along a bumpy dirt road. Over the next few days we visited floating villages where timber houses are built on stilts, explored ancient temples and villages including Chong Koh renowned for silk weaving, monasteries and local schools, before arriving at Kampong Cham, a charming town with a busy market. Perhaps the most memorable part of the journey was at dusk watching a tall line of clouds turn pink, then brilliant orange at sunset, while enjoying the heady cocktail of the day.

In 1859, French explorer Henri Mouhot set out to explore Indochina. It took him a year of hacking through jungle and fending off leopards, leeches and elephants before he arrived at Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument on earth completed in 1175 AD. The Buddhist temples of Angkor cover a vast area of around 200 square kilometres with more than 100 temples, requiring a stay of several days. Other great monuments include the Bayon, the vine-covered Ta Prohm and Banteay Srei, the oldest temples dating from 835 AD.

As captivating as the temples of Angkor may be, Cambodia’s sun in May is scorching, the air dry and gritty. Fortunately Siem Reap, the town that lodges and feeds Angkor’s visitors, has evolved from little more than a village into a chic haven of rest and relaxation with excellent cafes, restaurants, bars and a vibrant contemporary art scene, providing the perfect final destination to end my journey. My favourite was the galleries of John McDermott, known for his mystical images of Angkor. For silk and gifts, head for Senteurs d’Angkor, Artisans d’Angkor and Rajana.

Its pot-holed roads have gone, the boutiques, restaurants and hotels are so sophisticated, they are almost destinations in themselves. Many affluent tourists do little more than fly into Siem Riep for a chauffeur driven tour to Angkor Wat. At the airport I asked an American from Las Vegas what she had remembered of her stay. “Gorgeous Hotel!”, was her response. But for me, there is no better way of experiencing a country than to cruise on its rivers and in Cambodia, after a journey on the Mekong you feel that you know just a little of it, with way more to

Wandering along the grand halls of the National Museum provided an overview in the Khmer aesthetic with giant statues dating from the 8th century

Main Image: Mekong Sunset

Clockwise left to right: Tonle Pandaw

Cabin

Riverside village Chamkar stir fry Elephant

Angkor Temples Gibbon Royal Palace.

Travel noTebook

Mekong

GETTING T h E r E

You can reach Cambodia with Singapore Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Air Asia, Thai Airways or Vietnam Airlines. Jetstar Asia and Bangkok Airways also fly there.

Acco MM odATI o N

In Phnom Penh, the historic Raffles Hotel Le Royal is spacious and charming with a large swimming pool. The more affordable Pavilion Hotel is exquisite the staff are welcoming and breakfast taken poolside is a treat. Website: www.thepavilion.asia Email: reservation@ thepavilion.asia Phone: + 855 0 23 22 22 80

Siem Riep has undergone a building boom in recent years, with many huge hotels on the road towards the airport. Most cater to tour groups and should be avoided. The hotels in the centre of town are far preferable with La Residence and Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor at the high end. I love the affordable Golden Banana Boutique Hotel which offers 6 types of accommodation. Staying here makes me feel like I’m back in Bali in the 70s. Website: www.golden-banana.com Email: goldenbanana2@gmail.com Phone: +855 0 12 654 638

GETTING A ro UN d

There is no better way to travel than to cruise on the Mekong River. Pandaw Cruises website: www.pandaw.com. The most common means of transport is the tuk-tuk. Hotels can arrange transport. In Siem Riep, Barang will arrange taxis and tuk tuks at reasonable prices. Email: barangangkortour@yahoo.com Phone: + 855 092 425 959

c UISINE cho I c ES

In Phnom Penh, head for Sugar Palm at 19, 240 Street for great authentic Khmer food. Many other good restaurants and boutiques are found here. Have a meal or hand massage at Friends that provides training to former street children at 215, 13 Street. In Siem Riep, head for Pub Street and Pub Street Alley. Chamkar has great vegetarian Khmer cuisine.

TIP

Carry a wad of crisp US dollars in small denominations since most restaurants, hotels etc., charge in US currency. Credit cards are not widely accepted. Canby Publications has free guides available from leading hotels with maps and info.