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In the heart of the

camp as it snowed heavily in the night, and the way to Chandrataal became unpassable. So we moved to plan B, and drove to Leh by road, a distance of approximately 300 kms through treacherous mountain roads, crossing two passes at BaralachaLa and TanglangLa, which is the second highest motorable pass at 17,600 ft. We camped at Tsokar (4400 mts); snowfall followed us here, and was the cause of a photographer’s nightmare –that of a bleak, whitewashed landscape.

A few quick steps and fast movements caused me breathing difficulty, as I had not yet acclimatized to the change. It was a strange feeling to breathe, but not get the O2. We finally reached Leh and started off on the Markha valley trek from Zingchen. We continuously followed riverbanks and climbed hills in the high arid mountains of the Himalayas. The landscape crawl within a foot to catch a nice portrait! Other wildlife included the Himalayan fox, wild ass, marmot, king vulture and many colourful butterflies.

There were many spectacular moments each day, such as hundreds of sheep trying to cross a rickety foot-bridge in the evening light at Nimaling. The last day of the trek came quite quickly, and we left the mountains with heavy hearts.

The next day we drove to KhardungLa pass (18,380 ft) which is the highest motorable road in the world. It was a strange feeling, and soon a slow snowfall began, forcing us indoors for lemon tea at the highest café in the world.

I have returned tired and boneweary, but with many cherished memories from the most magical mountains in the world. And I will be back!

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