Highs Rocky Mountain

BY THOMAS E KING

The majestic and mesmerising Canadian Rocky Mountains are the ultimate picture postcard destination. Eternally snow-capped peaks, however, are but one of many lures spread over this pristine part of the planet. Vast alpine forests, ancient glaciers, turquoise lakes, an abundance of wildlife and sophisticated resort communities are also part of the picture. Along the ultra picturesque Icefields Parkway a scenic motorway extends from Jasper, past glacial Peyto Lake, beyond to Lake Louise and onwards to Banff in the south western corner of the Canadian province of Alberta.

By far the most soothing and informative way to reach Jasper is on the Rocky Mountaineer’s Rainforest to Gold Rush two-day rail journey that begins in Whistler, the chic mega popular hiking-in-summer and skiing-in-winter resort north of Vancouver, British Colombia. Whistler made sporting headlines around the globe early last year when the stylish sporting destination was the venue for the 2010 Winter Olympics. During the summer season from May to late September, there are weekly train departures that allow comfort-craving visitors to see the diverse beauty of Canada’s West in true style.

I gazed in wonderment at the 3954 metre behemoth (Mount Robson), the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, but only had a fleeting glimpse of its icy summit

Cosily cocooned inside the custom designed bi-level GoldLeaf Dome Coach, I relished gourmet meals prepared by an on-board chef and while looking through full length windows, revelled at the everchanging scenery as the alldaylight rail odyssey travelled through the dramatic desert-like Fraser Canyon and the Cariboo Gold Rush region. One of the most breathtaking sights I saw was near the end of one of the most spectacular train trips in the world, the sky-topping Mount Robson. I gazed in wonderment at the 3954 metre behemoth, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, but only had a fleeting glimpse of its icy summit. Clouds swirl around the mountain much of the time so even a brief sighting is a bonus, I learned.

Relaxed, refreshed and well-informed about this glorious area, I arrived in the small town of Jasper, the much-heralded ‘Gem of the Rockies’, and was seamlessly transported to the historic Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. Bing Crosby and Marilyn Monroe were guests at this polished property built predominately of wood. The former frequently teed off on the resort’s stunning 18-hole golf course while the latter, when not exhaling her lines for a 1950s film, gazed at mountain highs. Today, visitors from around the world still do the same.

About half way between Jasper and Lake Louise and just off the 257 km long Icefields Parkway, I had the unusual chance to get up close and personal with a remnant of the last Ice Age, the Colombia Icefield. Ringed by a succession of lofty peaks including 3747-metre high Mt Colombia and spanning some 325 sq. km, it’s the largest block of ice in the Canadian Rockies! The Athabasca Glacier is one of 30 ‘rivers of ice’ emanating from the several trillion ton mass of compacted snow.

Brewster Travel Canada operates numerous hour-long 5 km excursions every day during the visitor season to the cusp of this 365-metre thick glacier in specially built 6-wheel Ice Explorers. Thick jackets are handed out for those wanting to tip toe across the frozen landscape. I opted for an Athabasca interlude, slipping and sliding for a few minutes on a glacier that has retreated 1.5 km in 125 years. Between 1870 and today, the fact-filled Ice Explorer driver said, the glacier has lost more than two-thirds of its volume and more than half of its surface area.

I could easily see the process of constriction was continuing. It was freezing cold as I gingerly walked beyond the slow moving bus-like vehicle, but small rivulets were winding their way across the icy landscape. Several passengers had brought plastic cups with them and after a sample taste, passed them around for others to drink the ever-so-pure glacial water.

The awesome Athabasca Glacier is much photographed and so is Peyto Lake, one of the world’s most beautiful glacial lakes. I reached a vantage point above the lake after a short walk in the woods. The summertime setting of evergreens and mountain peaks before me was sublime, but the real showstopper was the lake which was the colour of turquoise.

The shade of Peyto Lake is so vivid, so intense that you could be misled into thinking that the idyllic forestencircled body of water was an elaborate creation in Photoshop. That’s exactly what I thought while viewing a lake fed by the melt waters of Peyto Glacier. The real reason for its spirited hue, however, is due to the forces of nature.

Glaciers are actually (ever-so-slowly) moving rivers of ice. As their immense weight passes over rock, surfaces are scraped resulting in an incredibly fine rock powder. During summer, rivulets and streams flowing across melting glaciers carry significant amounts of this rock flour into natural basins like Peyto Lake. The suspended rock particles give these bodies of water their bright and almost unreal turquoise colour.

Peyto Lake is but one scene stealer in Banff National Park. Farther south I came across what many visitors consider is the Rockies’ ultimate picture postcard destination. Cradled in a small glacial valley, the Victoria Glacier looms behind the turquoise waters of Lake Louise, named for Princess Louise Caroline Alberta, the fourth daughter of Queen Victoria and wife of the Governor General of Canada.

“One of the most beautiful lakes in the western hemisphere” also gets its vivid colour from suspended microscopic glacial silt. Its frigid waters – far too cold for swimming – were my constant companion as I walked along a lake-skirting path to the Victoria Glacier. Twice during my walk I heard a thunderous roar as an unseen, but not so distant chuck of ice succumbed to gravity. Lake Louise is a supremely relaxing place where visitors can admire nature’s handiwork while lazing about in luxurious iconic heritage accommodation at the circa 1890 Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Some guests stay indoors, virtually only glancing up now and again from their books! Others, in contrast, enjoy the great outdoors in a variety of inventive ways.

Earlier during my mid-summer’s wander through the spectacular wilderness of British Colombia and Alberta I had briefly stepped onto one glacier; the next adventure was to fly over another. Icefield Heli Tours operates a daily timetable filled with flights that circle several glaciers and cruise over aqua green lakes. Expert commentary highlighted the thrilling adventure as I whirled from one jaw-dropping scene to the next. Time flew by and all too soon we were flying back to base, pausing only

1. Rocky Mountaineer trains offer unexcelled service in unforgettable wilderness surroundings.

2. The colour of Peyto Lake is caused by suspended rock particles known as glacial rock flour.

3. Lake Louise and the Victoria Glacier form the most iconic image of the Rocky Mountains.

4. During excursions with the Brewster Ice Explorer visitors can actually walk on the Athabasca Glacier.

5. Take the Banff Gondola for an unsurpassed vista over mountains and resort village.

Photos: Thomas E. King

Travel notebook

momentarily to hover above a dazzling waterfall which had a heart-thumping 300 metre drop to the valley floor below.

Back on land and setting off again on the Icefields Parkway, Banff, a resort town for well over a century, is the last of three resort destinations on the popular motorway. Banff was created purely as a tourist destination for affluent Victorian-era travellers who would arrive on the Canadian Pacific Railway. They would come to soak in the rejuvenating hot springs or escape to the mountains.

Today, the charming alpine-style village is still the staging point for explorations of the 6641 sq. km Banff National Park, the third oldest national park in the world and the oldest in Canada. Established in 1885, this reserve together with the adjoining Jasper National Park, two other gazetted wilderness zones and a trio of provincial parks are internationally recognised by UNESCO. The Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks World Heritage Site which encompasses 20,585 sq km is one of the largest protected areas in the world.

During a brief but exhilarating gondola ride up Sulphur Mountain I felt as if I could see it all as the view of snow capped peaks encircling the glacier carved Bow River Valley, placid deep green lakes and tiny Banff become more and more magnificent. The magical embrace of the mighty mountains had truly touched me.

Canadian Rocky Mountains

FLIGHTS

Air Canada operates the daily CA34 non-stop flight from Sydney to Vancouver - one air gateway to the Rocky Mountains - and frequent onward flights to Calgary, the other gateway. The 14 hour flight to Vancouver is in a Boeing 777200LR equipped with a personal touch screen TV at every seat and in-seat power for laptops. See your travel agent or contact Air Canada Australia-wide on 1300 655 767 for details of flights and fares. See www.aircanada.com. Interstate passengers can easily connect with CA34 as it departs Sydney at 1330.

TRAVEL

Rocky Mountaineer offers over 45 train holiday packages ranging from 2 to 25 days on four distinctive rail routes. Three routes incorporate travel into the Canadian Rockies while there’s a 3½ hour train excursion, Whistler Sea to Sky that operates from Vancouver to the mountain resort of Whistler. Over the past 20 years, Rocky Mountaineer has grown to become the largest privately owned passenger rail service in North America and has welcomed more than one million guests. See www. rockymountaineer.com

Accommodation

Superb Fairmont hotels located in Jasper, Lake Louise and Banff all offer distinctive heritage accommodation in elegant surroundings. See www.fairmont.com. Reservations can be made through the local representative office on 1800 804 456.

Excursion

While Vancouver is the gateway to British Colombia it’s not the provincial capital. That honour goes to Victoria, a charming and stately municipality which remains the most English of Canadian cities. Among numerous activities and attractions I enjoyed during a wonderful three day stay in the 325,000-strong capital was the Royal British Colombia Museum with its comprehensive display of First Nation People, high tea at the iconic Fairmont Empress Hotel and the exquisite floral displays at the world famous Butchart Gardens, one of the province’s top tourist attractions.

INFORMATION

The Canadian Tourism Commission is able to provide useful information for your Rocky Mountains holiday. See www.canada. travel as well as www.travelalberta.com and www.banfflakelouise. com. Other useful websites are Brewster Travel Canada www.brewster.ca and Icefield Heli Tours www.icefieldheli.com

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