The course of Indian cuisine

The history of Indian food has improved in richness and variety through the ages, and its resplendence is now shared with the world

Indian Cuisine is more than 7000 years old, and has survived many cultural and geographical changes. It has evolved significantly over the years, gaining its richness from various travellers and invaders, enhancing, rather than losing its identity. Early Indians ate food that was available naturally. Fruit, wild berries, meat and fish were the main food of nomadic people. With the advent of civilisation, people settled and started farm, leading to the discovery of food crops, pulses, etc. Food in ancient India was cultivated in the fertile river valleys. The two factors that played a major role in Indian cuisine reaching its present status have been foreign invasions and the religious beliefs of its people. Let’s travel down the ages to where it all started and where it stands today.

2000 BC and earlier:

Many people believe the history of Indian civilisation is as old as mankind. From as early as 7000 BC, sesame, eggplant and humped cattle were found in some archaeological references. By 3000 BC, spices such as cardamom, turmeric, black pepper and mustard were being harvested in India. In Vedic time a normal Indian diet consisted of fruit, honey, meat, game hunting and dairy products. In ancient India, each town would have a huge storage building for grain such as rice and barley, which could be kept for a long time without perishing through wet or damp.

The formal Indian civilisations began with the Harappan and Mohenjo-Daro civilisations around 2000 BC. They dined on meals that primarily consisted of wheat, lentils, and rice. Sometimes they supped on the meat of chickens, goats, sheep, cows, and pigs. Most people believe that the Ayurvedic tradition or the holistic approach to food began with this civilisation. This approach believes that everything that we eat affects both our mind and body. Therefore, food should be pure, natural, and balanced. The core balance consists of balancing the six tastes - sweet, sour, salty, pungent, bitter and astringent.

From 1000 BC

The roots of Hinduism are believed to be laid around this time, as well as the religious texts, Vedic scriptures and even the Mahabharata. The caste system was also developed during this time which led to the division of food habits, mainly the Brahmins having vegetarian foods

Meat was typically eaten on rare occasions, or not at all. Examples of vegetarian food that early Indians ate included chapatis served with vegetables, lentils and yogurt. Rice, yogurt and vegetables were another popular combination.

1200-1500

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This period was marked with Muslim and other invasions into the country. In 1498, Vasco de Gama arrived in India, leading to its colonisation. The main effect of Portuguese cuisine was seen in Goa, but influence from traders such as the Arab and Portuguese diversified sub-continental tastes and meals. As with other cuisines, Indian cuisine absorbed the new-world vegetables such as tomatoes, chillies, and potatoes.

1500-1800 AD

This is the period of the Moghul Empire and the emergence of Mughlai cuisine that people now associate with India. It includes the addition of several seasonings like saffron, nuts and cooking in the “dum” or sealed pot method of cooking. In south India, the Sultan dynasty in Hyderabad led to similar influences in the region. There was a continuation of other European influences in parts of south India such as Kerala, where you see the beginning of Syrian Christian cuisine.

The Mughal rule in India added rich gravies and the taste of kebabs, leading to a revival of non-vegetarian foods. Lavish dishes were prepared during the reigns of Jahangir and Shah Jahan. The Nizams of Hyderabad developed and perfected their own style of cooking with the most notable dish being the biryani, often considered by many connoisseurs to be the finest of the main dishes in India.

1800-1947 AD

This was the period of the British rule in India and the emergence of Anglo-Indian cuisine. The most notable cuisine that developed in this era was curry. The notion of was what the British, during their rule in India, referred to when eating spicy food. In the United Kingdom, this was the word used to describe any type of savory Indian food. Sometimes, the word was primarily used to denote a sauce-based dish flavored with curry powder or a paste made from the powder and oils. The first recorded or published recipe for curry in Britain is by a woman known as Hannah Glasse. In her 1747 book The Art of Cookery which appeared in twenty editions throughout the Eighteenth and Nineteenth centuries, her initial recipe for ‘curry’ included coriander seeds and pepper. Then by the fourth edition of the book, she added ginger and turmeric.

Post-Independence

The post-independence period changed Indian cuisine to sub-continental cuisine as the Indian land mass was divided into several countries. Most notably, Pakistan and Bangladesh inherited this ancient cuisine that has developed into their present day culinary tradition. Also the cuisines were subdivided into different Indian regions and states according to the cultivation of crops, such as the use of maize in north India and more of rice in south India.

But now with modernisation, development of communication, infrastructure, information technology and globalisation, all types of cuisine are available in India. Various kinds of pasta and spaghetti from Italy, the ever-popular chowmein from China, tacos and enchiladas from Mexico, the Continental pizzas and burgers, the French flambé etc., are a popular few. However, I would like to think that the Indian tradition of food can still be described through three famous words in Sanskrit literature: Atithi Devo , which means ‘the guest is truly your God’. This I feel is quite appropriate for Indians where even the poorest in India look forward to guests and are eager to share their meals with them.

And most important is the Indian women’s pride that will not let any guests go hungry or unhappy from her home.

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