Ease into Edmonton

Authentically recreated eras add a genuine touch to this charming tourist destination

BY THOMAS E KING

“Welcome to 1846; you are no longer in 2010,” said the conductor as I stepped down from the timber-panelled train carriage and gazed at a formidable bastion from times gone by. Though I had seemingly travelled more than 160 years into the past I didn’t feel any jet lag. The high wooden walls and watchtower before me, however, were totally unlike what I had seen only minutes before at the entrance to Fort Edmonton Park.

There in the parking lot filled with tour coaches and cars were residents from Edmonton, the provincial capital of Alberta, other Canadians from points near and far and a mix of visitors from other lands. All were eagerly anticipating the 10am opening of “North America’s largest interactive historic park”.

Set on a leafy 64-ha plot fronting the North Saskatchewan River in suburban Edmonton, the park as I discovered on a warm summer’s day, genuinely brings to life the pioneering atmosphere of the 19th century and the prosperity of the early 20th century in this western Canadian city. More than 70 period buildings from four eras in themed ‘streets’ not only present life as it was, but visitors can also participate in daily events.

Periodically throughout the day, a ‘time-travelling’ steam train stops before the namesake Fort Edmonton. Passengers disembark and walk the short distance to a recreated structure where costumed historical interpreters provide anecdotes and insights from as-if-they-were-there-in-1846 perspectives. I watched as a Cree woman made pemmican, a concentrated mixture of fat and protein used as a nutritious food, and listened to stories about fur trading days. The fortified trading post was set up to provide a common ground where native people like Cree and Blackfoot could bring furs and obtain supplies.

Leaving this congenial setting I was soon treading along 1885 Street which represents Edmonton’s homestead era. One of the first structures I encountered was the Bulletin Building, which housed Edmonton’s earliest newspaper. I picked up a copy of the Edmonton Bulletin dated July 18th 1885. World news was indeed sparse with only a few items telegraphed to the paper from Winnipeg, the capital of Manitoba Province.

Local news headed with the single line “River very high, with some driftwood” and continuing with items informing readers about steamer arrivals, lost buckboards and horses and new stocks of provisions provided astute observations about the fledgling community. A horse-drawn wagon laden with visitors rumbled by as I continued walking down the dusty street passing some two dozen relocated or authentically reconstructed buildings from this period of early settlement.

During the years between 1891 and 1914, the population of Edmonton soared from 800 to 72,000 with the demand for housing outstripping supply. Coming to the end of 1885 Street and rounding the bend to 1905 Street, I could see a solution to this dilemma. A semicircle of tents had been set up to represent temporary housing seen in the city for many years. Two historical interpreters dressed in early 20th century attire were ‘playing cards’ in their tent as I walked past. They beckoned me to enter and proceeded to talk of the ‘hardships’ and pleasures of those days.

A clanging bell alerted me to a streetcar proceeding down the street. Boarding it in 1905 I got off in 1920! Two girls dressed in the fashion of the day were sitting near the streetcar stop where I alighted for 1920 Street. They had just finished ‘work’ as telephone operators, they said in a most convincing inperiod way, and were excited about news that famous movie star, Douglas Fairbanks would be coming to Edmonton.

In the distance I heard the whistle from the steam train. It was a signal that another group of visitors would soon start their own journey through history.

Surrounded by greenery, Fort Edmonton Park is located on a bend of the North Saskatchewan River. Upstream, but in the very heart of the capital, is the stately Alberta Legislature Building, one of Western Canada’s best remaining examples of classic, ornate architecture. Considered a provincial treasure, the building highlighted with granite and sandstone accents, was completed in 1912. Free guided tours starting at the Interpretive Centre reveal more about this solid veteran which resembles grand sandstone edifices seen in our state capitals.

The dignified building towers above a 23ha landscaped expanse of flower-strewn and fountain-enhanced gardens. I stood before the fountain and watched arcs of water sparkle in the clear blue sky. Children played happily as office workers in shirt sleeves took their time travelling from one appointment to the next.

The amiable ambience continued as I made my way to Old Strathcona in suburban Edmonton. This historic heart of the city dates to 1891, the year the railway line was completed between Calgary and Edmonton. Though it’s now a part of the million-strong greater city, there’s a real buzz to this quaint neighbourhood. Locals and visitors alike swarm through its chic shops, boutique hotels and gourmet restaurants set inside buildings that were new in the 1890s. Old style lampposts and brick footpaths lining Whyte

1. The grounds around the Alberta Legislative Building are colourful throughout summer

2. Authentically costumed interpreters pause along 1920 Street in Fort Edmonton Park

3. A faithfully built stage coach transports visitors along 1885 Street in Fort Edmonton Park

4. The Peace Plaza honours those who lost their lives in two World Wars and the Korean campaign

5. There’s no question you are in Canada when visiting the massive ice rink at Edmonton Mall!

Avenue add more charm to the small town aura of another era.

While there’s no shortage of commercial outlets in Strathcona, they pale into insignificance when compared with the offerings in West Edmonton Mall, a gargantuan marketplace described as “the greatest indoor show on earth”. Arriving for what I thought would be a quick round of browsing, I picked up a directory which categorises the 800 shops found in the two storey mall.

Interspersed between flagship stores and exclusive retailers spread over the equivalent of 48 city blocks, are establishments stocking everything from fashion, gifts and hardware to computers, beauty products and toys. In addition are more than 100 dining outlets and a dinner theatre. Entertainment options include an indoor aquarium stocked with coral and creatures, two miniature golf courses, 21 movie screens, a massive Canadian flag spread out behind a National Hockey League-sized skating rink, rides like an indoor roller coaster and a Las Vegas-style casino near a hotel with unique themed rooms.

The publicity generated around this mega mall is such that shopping expeditions are organised from other parts of Canada and even states in northern USA. After arriving, many shopaholics rush off to one of eight specialist retailers exclusively selling luggage. An extra suitcase or two is a wise purchase indeed for those seriously trolling through the mother of all shopping centres!

Travel notebook EDMONTON

FLIGHTS

Air Canada operates a daily CA34 service from Sydney to Vancouver. The 14 hour non-stop flight is in a Boeing 777-200LR equipped with a personal touch screen TV at every seat and in-seat power for laptops. See your travel agent or contact Air Canada Australiawide on 1300 655 767 for details of flights and fares. See www.aircanada.com Interstate passengers can easily connect with CA34 as it departs Sydney at 1330.

TRAVEL

Edmonton is 1½ flying hours east of Vancouver. Air Canada has multiple flights every day connecting the two provincial capitals. In addition, you can leisurely travel by coach (Greyhound Canada) or car and make stops in Calgary and the scenic Rockies before continuing on to Edmonton. ViaRail’s Canadian is another travel option with a frequent eastbound service from Vancouver. See www.viarail.ca and www. canadabyrail.ca

Accommodation

The towering 313 room Sutton Place Hotel offers sophisticated lodgings one block from the City Centre Mall in the heart of Edmonton. A special treat here is the city’s only all-you-can-eat twice weekly Chocoholic Buffet! See www.suttonplace.com

Events

Edmonton is nicknamed Canada’s Festival City and there is a full calendar of events throughout the year. While many festivals are celebrated during summer months, the Canadian Finals Rodeo is the last big event of the year. Held over 10 days in early November, Canada’s major indoor rodeo is staged concurrently with Farmfair International, a large scale agricultural show. See www.canadianfinalsrodeo.ca

Information

For advice on planning your holiday in Canada visit www.canada.travel or call the Canadian Tourism Commission on 1300 300 576. Also see www. edmonton.com and www.travelalberta.com