Serene Stockholm

By THOMAS E KING

Water laced and architecturally graced, Stockholm is easily one of the world’s most visually stunning capitals. Spread over 14 islands connected by 57 bridges, water covers one third of the Swedish city. Beyond an intricate network of rock-rimmed canals is a city of style and charm. Stately, century old residences line elegant streets while elsewhere sophisticated people purchase chic “Made in Sweden” goods from modish shops in designer blueprinted glass and steel buildings. Lush parks – part of a green belt that occupies another third of the city - dot this beautiful metropolis where the air is truly refreshing and its numerous waterways are truly clean.

Narrated canal tours that cruise along many water channels are a relaxing way to get an overview of the 1.3 million-strong capital. My wife and I opted for a two hour boat excursion mid last year when the long warm days and short cool nights of midsummer were still being celebrated. We boarded a specially constructed water craft for an Under the Bridges canal tour from the pier in front of the Grand Hotel, one of the most historic properties in this distinguished city on the water.

Immediately after setting off we were in front of one of the city’s largest buildings. Virtually opposite the pier – a bustling place where you can also board cruises that circle through the idyllic 24,000 island Swedish archipelago – is the Italian styled baroque Royal Palace. Located on the central island of Stadsholmen, it’s one of the biggest palaces in Europe.

The Swedish Royal Family resided in this boxy pinkish brown 608 room mid-18th century building – I heard it called ‘the Matchbox’ on more than one occasion –until 1981.

Though they now live in the countryside south of Stockholm at Drottningholm, the CBD-sited palace is still used by King Carl XVI Gustaf and other members of the Swedish Royal Family. Even when he is not signing documents and meeting dignitaries, large areas of the regal building are open to the public.

Inside the cavernous palace visitors can explore halls highly ornamented with priceless paintings, galleries studded with even more masterpieces, chambers where royalty enjoyed gala balls and spectacle that combines rousing military music and two uniformed regiments on horseback. Busloads of tourists are always on hand to witness the formalities. We missed the ceremonial Changing of the Guards every day of our week long stay in the capital simply because we were inevitably out and about elsewhere on the small rocky island, as it has another claim to fame. Stadsholmen is also the island site of Gamla Stan (Swedish for where the city began in the 13 century.

Stockholm, the capital of Sweden since 1634, was founded in 1252 on this strategic isle as a garrison fortress to police the waterways between the Baltic Sea and inland lakes. Winding traffic free streets, century old houses, tiny parks and churches with soaring spires and gabled roofs are characteristic of atmospheric Gamla Stan.

The area is ‘tourist central’ with summertime visitors swarming through the narrow streets to browse and buy, or sip and stay. That’s because most of the homes have now been converted into cosy cafes, antique shops, boutique hotels, souvenir shops and art galleries. Buskers in costumes vie for attention as you wander through this highly animated area. We paused to listen to a hot Swedish jazz band and then proceeded on to see more in this medieval wonderland.

It’s easy to get lost in Gamla Stan but just as easy to find your bearings, as eventually all cobblestone streets lead to Stortoget. The Great Square is surrounded by tall houses painted in pleasing colours and fronted by boxes of blooming flowers. These residences once belonged to rich 15th century merchants and ship builders who helped Sweden become a leading trading nation.

With its quaint lanes and lovely buildings I found this charming area to be highly photogenic; Skansen, on the nearby island of Djurgarden, is equally picturesque. Spread over a forested hill on this small island, Skansen is the oldest open air museum in the world. Opened in 1891 it was founded by pioneer Swedish educationalist Artur Hazelius. Here, some 150 buildings representing different periods and different social classes from across Sweden have been relocated to form an absorbing outdoor museum.

1. Costumed musicians and dancers add to the authenticity of Skansen, the oldest open air museum in the world

2. The sole exhibit in the Vasa Museum is the oldest fully preserved 17th century warship

3. Sightseeing boats are a relaxing way to explore canal-laced Stockholm and its outstanding archipelago.

4. The ornate spire of the German Church dominates the skyline of Gamla Stan, the majestic Old Town

5. Stockholm’s grand City Hall is the striking venue for the Nobel Prize banquet organised every December.

Stately, century old residences line elegant streets while elsewhere sophisticated people purchase chic “Made in Sweden” goods from modish shops in designer blueprinted glass and steel buildings

Far more than a static collection of historic structures, craftspeople demonstrate regional crafts and farming techniques to enthralled visitors strolling through one of Sweden’s most visited attractions. This is a working village with glass blowers, potters and carpenters on hand to explain time-tested techniques.

It was the intent of Artur Hazelius to show how people lived and worked in all regions of Sweden from Lapland in the north to farm lands in the south. He selected a 35 ha. parcel of prime island land and began to relocate representative farm houses, churches, rural shops and even manor houses from the period between 1500 and the 1920s. In doing so this visionary has ensured that the Sweden of yesteryear can be seen by future generations.

Though Skansen is within walking distance of central Stockholm, it exudes a decidedly rural ambience. I walked rolling countryside roads to a vantage point and looked out over a serene harbour - an inlet of the Baltic Sea - which admittedly is not always so serene.

Conditions were calm on the morning of August 10, 1628 when the fully laden Swedish warship Vasa set sail with 145 seamen, 300 soldiers and 68 large bronze cannons. However, within 15 minutes of being farewelled, a strong gust of wind tipped the vessel and the pride of the mighty fleet began taking on water. Built from the wood of 1000 oak trees, the sturdy flagship of the Swedish navy quickly sank. For over 330 years the intact ship lay undisturbed in the black mud of Stockholm Harbour until a salvage team began restoration efforts in 1961. They found that the harbour’s cool waters had miraculously preserved the 70 metre vessel in 15 metres of water and began the delicate task of recovery. A purpose built museum contains the resin impregnated craft which I was awed to learn is recognised as the oldest fully preserved 17th century warship in the world.