Luxury Travel Magazine - Issue 75

travel LUXURY

MAGAZINE ISSUE 75 / SPRING 2018 / $14.95

New Wave

The

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ISSN 1443-3079

71

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LUXURY CRUISING T O D AY & B E Y O N D OCEA N R IV ER E X P EDITION

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B O R N E O C A N A D A C A P E T O W N I R E L A N D N E W Z E A L A N D TA H I T I TA S M A N I A V I E T N A M

LATIN AMERICA “El realismo mágico es la realidad de América Latina.” – Gabriel Garcia Marquez Abercrombie & Kent has just released its 2019 Latin America portfolio, including luxury private and small group journeys to Mexico, Cuba, Guatemala & Honduras, Columbia, Ecuador & The Galapagos, Peru, Brazil, Bolivia, Uruguay, Chile and Argentina. This is a new way to travel in the New World, lands filled with ancient sites and modern sounds, extraordinary landscapes, unique wildlife, mesmerising cultures, cuisines, histories, myth and travel magic unmatched anywhere else.

Sophisticated cities, unforgettable wilderness experiences, authentic local encounters, privileged after-hours and behind-the-scenes access, designer hotels and eco-lodges, gorgeous estancias, luxury trains and small ships, glamorous high desert camps — no-one can take you there like A&K. Talk to your travel agent or call Abercrombie & Kent on 1300 851 800.

Request a copy of our new Latin America brochure and receive a $500 A&K Travel Voucher. Visit abercrombiekent.com.au for details.

www.abercrombiekent.com.au

An escape to remember in a tropical hideaway.

Filled with fun, adventure, and space to unwind.

oneandonlypalmilla.com

FA R E A S T D R E A M D E S T I N AT I O N .

0 UR 20 E . l c In ard on-bo redit age c r e v e b

· Casual luxury at the highest level with a maximum of 500 guests. · Named the best cruise ship in the world by the renowned Berlitz Cruise Guide 2018. · Suites from 376 ft² up to 1,227 ft² in size – all with private veranda. · 10,764 ft² spa and fitness area with an ocean view.

EUX1909_4

· Seven gourmet restaurants – at no extra cost.

08 May – 26 May 2019 18 days | cruise EUX1909

TOKYO – SINGAPORE

Starting from EUR 9,966 per person

cruise only, in a Veranda or Ocean Suite (Cat. 1), double occupancy incl. 5% early booking discount until 31 Oct 2018

Toba

Tokyo

Keelung Hong Kong Halong Bay

Naha Ishigaki

Da Nang Ho Chi Minh City

Singapore

For further information please contact: Landmark Travel Phone: 02 99777100 E-mail: gerd@landmarktravel.com.au Hapag-Lloyd Kreuzfahrten GmbH, Ballindamm 25, 20095 Hamburg, Germany www.hl-cruises.com service@hl-cruises.com

40

pages of luxury cruising OCEAN RIVER EXPEDITION

MS EUROPA 2

The Marlborough Lodge

Lion’s Head, Cape Town

Belmond Grand Hibernian

SPRING 2018

Contents Cover Story Full Steam Ahead 4 6 THE BOOM IN LUXURY CRUISING

The Modern Mariner 54 DROPPING ANCHOR IN ALASKA

Sea Change 60 EXCITING TRENDS ON THE HORIZON

Reverie on the Rhône 64 LA BELLE FRANCE BY LONGSHIP The Fairmont Empress

Champagne & Caviar 7 0 A SERIAL CRUISER’S LOVE OF SHIPS

Whale of a Time 7 2 E X P E D I T I O N V OYAG E O F D I S C O V E R Y

Features Sparkling Saffire 126 A V I N TAG E W E E K E N D I N TA S M A N I A

Oh, Canada! 134 B R I T I S H C O L U M B I A AT I T S B E S T

The Grand Tour 14 2 IRELAND’S FINEST LUXURY TRAIN

A Vine Romance 150 MARVELLOUS MARLBOROUGH

Cape Crusader 158 CITY GUIDE – CAPE TOWN

Saffire Freycinet

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SPRING 2018

In This Issue LT Celebrates 3 7

Postcard From the Edge 20

GOLD LIST 2018 WINNERS’ DINNER

CRUISING’S FINAL FRONTIER

Arrivals Lounge 23

Introducing 2 5

GOOD MORNING, VIETNAM

M TA – M O B I L E T R AV E L AG E N T S

Discoveries 29

Frequent Flyer 33

I T A LY ’ S L A D O L C E V I T A

A U S T R A L I A’ S P O I N T S W H I S P E R E R

Beyond Bora Bora 86

Lady of the Lake 9 3

T H E J O Y S O F M O O R E A A N D T A H A ’A

A L U X U R Y S PA R E T R E AT

The Jungle Look 10 0

An Island Odyssey 107

BORNEO’S WILD SIDE

KANGAROO ISLAND’S BOUNTY

Vintage Catalonia 1 1 2

Port of Call 118

BARCELONA AND ITS WINE COUNTRY

COASTING IN PORT MACQUARIE

In Every Issue O n t he Web 1 2 / Fr om the E d it o r 14 / Travel News 40 / Wh at t o Pack 7 8 A i r l i ne Re vi ew 1 68 / Su it e Life 170 / Off t h e Beat en Track 17 6 Pictured above: Mo’orea in The Islands of Tahiti; Borneo; Kangaroo Island

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where

LUXURY

ROAMS FREELY

Bold adventure and unmatched luxury in the farthest reaches of Earth, from the Russian Far East to the Antarctic, and remote lands in between. Introducing Crystal Endeavor.

CRYSTAL YACHT EXPEDITION CRUISES .

Clearly Different.

CRYSTALCRUISES.COM | 1300 059 262 | CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL Image is artist rendering and subject to change. ©2018 Crystal Cruises, LLC. Ship’s Registry: The Bahamas.

LT / O N L I N E

A WO R L D O F LU X U RY T R AV E L

On the Go

V I S I T LU X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . AU F O R U P -TO -T H E - M I N U T E N E W S A N D F E AT U R E S O N Y O U R D E S K T O P, TA B L E T O R M O B I L E

Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa is one of the gems of The Islands of Tahiti.

Designer Hideaway

Off-the-Grid Tahiti

Luxury Travel’s latest discovery is Istoria, a 12-suite retreat on idyllic Santorini. A new take on the traditional Greek beachside hotel, Istoria is positioned across from Perivolos Beach on the island’s southeast coast and has a stripped-down, contemporary aesthetic. Even better, Istoria is set in a calm sanctuary of lush landscape, well away from the island’s tourist-clogged beaches. luxurytravelmag.com.au/article/istoria-santorini/

Bora Bora has long been on most luxury travellers’ ultimate bucket list. But consider this: The Islands of Tahiti are made up of no fewer than 118 tropical islands and motus, and Bora Bora happens to be just one of them. Discover four spectacular islands that fly under the radar and are just waiting to be explored – overwater bungalows, aquamarine lagoons, coral reefs and all. luxurytravelmag.com.au/article/secret-islands-of-tahiti/

Lisbon Like a Local

Welcome Home

In the past few years, Lisbon has become Europe’s cool kid on the block, with many travel experts calling it the new Barcelona, but we know you have zero interest in standing beside the throngs of tourists lining up at the Portuguese capital’s historic monuments. So here are the restaurants, bars, sights and attactions that the locals love the most in this festive and beautiful city. luxurytravelmag.com.au/article/locals-guide-to-lisbon/

It’s not often you check into a luxury hotel and feel instantly at home, but such is the case at the delightful boutique hotel Hulbert House. Perched on a hilltop in Queenstown on New Zealand’s South Island, this historic property offers only six guest rooms, with panoramic views of Lake Wakatipu and its majestic mountainous horizon. Discover this jewel in Queenstown’s crown at luxurytravelmag.com.au/article/hulbert-house/

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A glimpse into the World of Viking reveals inspiring itineraries to some of the world’s most captivating and fascinating locations.

Cruise from Scandinavia and witness the breathtaking scenery of the Norwegian fjords. Explore charming historic towns and cosmopolitan cities including St Petersburg and Stockholm.

With included guided tours, a choice of eight dining venues, spa facilities and more, a Viking Cruise is a journey of discovery.

WORLD

of

VIKING

FREE

2-NIGHT EXTENSION STOCKHOLM OR LONDON

Arctic Circle Honningsvåg

Norwegian Sea

Tromsø

NORWAY SWEDEN

Shetland Islands (Lerwick) Orkney Islands North (Kirkwall) Sea SCOTLAND Edinburgh ENGLAND Cruise

NORWAY Bergen

FINLAND

GERMANY

Eidfjord

SWEDEN Helsinki Oslo

Stavanger

Geiranger St. Petersburg Eidfjord Helsinki Bergen Stockholm Stavanger RUSSIA Tallinn Baltic Ålborg Sea ESTONIA DENMARK Copenhagen Berlin ‘ Gdansk (Warnemünde)

London (Greenwich)

Stockholm

North Ålborg Sea DENMARK Copenhagen Berlin (Warnemünde)

POLAND

St. Petersburg

Tallinn ESTONIA

Baltic Sea

RUSSIA

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‘ Gdansk

GERMANY

POLAND

Overnight in Port

Cruise Overnight in Port

B ALTI C J EW ELS & THE M ID NIGH T SUN

VIKING HOMELANDS

S T O CK HOLM — LONDON or vice versa

STOCKHOL M – BERGEN or v i c e v ers a

29 DAYS | 2 1 GUIDED TOU RS | 10 C OU N TRI ES

15 DAYS | 11 GUIDED TOURS | 8 COUNTRIES

S E T S A IL MAY – JUNE 2020

SET SAIL APR – SEP 2019 & 2020

F ro m $ 1 9 ,3 9 0 pp in Veranda stateroom

From $8,295pp in Veranda stateroom

F ro m $ 2 3 ,1 9 0 pp in Penthouse Veranda

From $9,595pp in Penthouse Veranda

NO KIDS CRUISERS’ CHOICE

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NO CASINOS

138 747

WITHIN CATEGORY

FINLAND

Lofoten (Leknes)

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FREE UPGRADE

Reykjavík

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VOTED WORLD’S BEST

VIKINGCRUISES.COM.AU CRUISERS’ CHOICE

SEE YOUR LOC AL T R AVEL AGENT *Prices are per person, in Australian dollars, based on double occupancy, subject to availability and correct at time of printing. Prices based on the following departures: Baltic Jewels and the Midnight Sun 25 May 2020 in a Veranda stateroom (V2) and Penthouse Veranda (PV3) and Viking Homelands 13 April 2020 in a Veranda stateroom (V2) and Penthouse Veranda (PV3). Prices include all advertised discounts. City extension must be taken in conjunction with cruise itinerary and is subject to availability. Free cabin upgrade is to the next available cabin category and is subject to availability. Valid on new bookings only on selected departures. Must book by 30 November 2018 unless sold out prior. For more details visit vikingcruises.com.au

LT / F R O M T H E E D I T O R

Fascinating people,

© Photograph by Jason Busch

extraordinary places

O

ne of the most rewarding things about my role as the editor of Luxury Travel Magazine is the fascinating people I meet and the extraordinary places I’m lucky enough to visit.

People like Paolo Zegna, Chairman of Italian luxury fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna; Sarina Bratton, Chairman (Asia Pacific) of French luxury expedition cruise line Ponant, and a pioneer of the booming luxury cruising industry in Australia; and Yvonne Yeoh, managing director of ytd., the owner of Italian fashion and accessories brand Tod’s, which sponsored our recent Gold List 2018 awards.

Over lunch at Sydney’s Otto Restaurant, Zegna introduced me to his new luxury travel brand, Altagamma Italian Experiences by IC Bellagio, offering exclusive behind-the-scenes experiences at some of Italy’s most iconic brands. If you love Italy like I do, our story on page 29 is your passport to a new world of luxury, la dolce vita style.

My cherished friendship with Bratton dates back to the earliest days of luxury cruising in Australia, when she launched Orion Expedition Cruises into the local market in 2004.

Today, luxury cruising is by far the fastest-growing sector of the global travel industry, a multi-billion-dollar empire taking well-heeled, savvy and sophisticated travellers to every continent on the planet from the Arctic to Antarctica and all compass points in between.

Australians are riding the luxury cruising wave in huge and everincreasing numbers and the market has never been more competitive – or exciting – with more than 20 major cruise lines offering voyages

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Saffire Freycinet, Tasmania

on five-star ocean, river and expedition ships. Their continued success is in no small part due to Bratton’s trailblazing work promoting her life’s passion. If you haven’t cruised before – or are looking to sail again – I urge you to sit back and devour our 40-page cover story (page 46) showcasing the best in Australian and international luxury cruising.

I can assure you, it’s the holiday of a lifetime.

Talking of exceptional luxury travel brands, we celebrated our Gold List 2018 award winners recently at a gala dinner at the Sofitel Sydney Wentworth. I had the pleasure of sitting next to the delightful Yeoh, managing director of our principal sponsor Tod’s by ytd.

For the past four years, she and her team have made Tod’s a household name in Australia, bringing a new level of Italian style to our shores. Tod’s made the winners’ dinner a fun and fabulous event and a celebration of some of the finest luxury travel brands on the planet (page 37).

The highlight of my own travels this edition? A special pinot noir weekend at the incomparable Saffire Freycinet in Tasmania, a threeday extravaganza of cocktail receptions, degustation dinners, and a fascinating masterclass by leading wine expert Tyson Stelzer.

My thanks to Saffire’s general manager Justin King and his team for delivering a memorable luxury experience surrounded by Tasmania’s rare and primordial natural beauty (page 126). How lucky am I? A N D R E W C O N WAY EDITOR

Grand Train Tour of Switzerland

The Grand Train Tour of Switzerland combines the most scenic panorama routes of Switzerland into a unique travel experience. Explore the diversity and the highlights of the Alpine nation with one single ticket: the Swiss Travel Pass.

MySwitzerland.com/rail

travel

LT / C O N T R I B U T O R S

LUXURY

MAGAZINE ISSUE 75 / SPRING 2018 / $14.95

MAGGY OEHLBECK

New Wave

The

Champagne & Caviar 70

K E L LY A L L E N

Whale of a Time 72 Pods of humpback whales, as well as a passing parade of porpoises, dolphins and seals, turn an expedition cruise from Vancouver to San Francisco on board Silversea’s Silver Explorer into the voyage of a lifetime for health and wellness editor Kelly. “It’s an incredible adventure in the lap of luxury,” she says, “and with marine life in abundance.”

C A R O LY N L O C K H A R T

Oh, Canada! 1 3 4 Carolyn’s stellar editorial career with esteemed titles such as Vogue Australia, Vogue Entertaining+Travel and Australian Gourmet Traveller, has taken her to some of the world’s most glamorous destinations. For her first assignment for Luxury Travel Magazine, she discovers the beauty, majesty and enduring spirit of Whistler, Victoria and Vancouver.

M A D E L I N T O M E LT Y

A Vine Romance 15 0 Luxury Travel Magazine’s digital editor travels across the Tasman to visit The Marlborough Lodge, a spectacular country estate retreat nestled in one of New Zealand’s most beguiling wine regions. “Gourmet food, world-class wines, a chic lodge, and hectares of rolling vineyards, what’s not to love?” says Madelin.

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ISSN 1443-3079

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B O R N E O C A N A D A C A P E T O W N I R E L A N D N E W Z E A L A N D TA H I T I TA S M A N I A V I E T N A M

9 771443 307001 >

A seasoned luxury cruise enthusiast for more than two decades, Maggy has sailed from Southampton to the South Pacific, and all points in between. “Cruising is the optimal travel experience for value, comfort, security and indulgence – a journey of far-flung ports, cultural enrichment, camaraderie, and of course, a glass or two of bubbles,” she says.

LUXURY CRUISING T O D AY & B E Y O N D OCEAN R IVER EXP EDITION

Gary Allen MANAGING DIRECTOR gary@luxurytravelmedia.com.au Richard Bunting GENERAL MANAGER & MANAGING EDITOR T: +61 424 128 806 rbunting@luxurytravelmedia.com.au Andrew Conway EDITOR aconway@luxurytravelmedia.com.au Kyle Sansbury ART DIRECTOR design@luxurytravelmedia.com.au Madelin Tomelty D I G I TA L E D I T O R mtomelty@luxurytravelmedia.com.au Kelly Allen H E A LT H & W E L L N E S S E D I T O R kallen@luxurytravelmedia.com.au Kate Symons COPY EDITOR Michael Gebicki E D I T O R -AT- L A R G E wordplay@optusnet.com.au Natalie Acopian, Mikayla Balk, Malin Boemke, Allie Cesario, Kelly Hennessey, Lucie Malone and Jacquelyn Melinek M A R K E T I N G & E D I T O R I A L A S S I S TA N T S Sco tt & Ro b in Ve ntur el l i DIRECTORS ON THE COVER Hapag-Lloyd Cruises’ EUROPA 2 powers across the Mediterranean Sea en route to her next destination.

Published by: Luxury Travel Media ABN 86 066 598 427 58 Atchinson Street, Sydney 2065 Tel: +61 2 8705 5463 Distribution and Subscription enquiries: AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND Luxury Travel Magazine T: +61 2 8705 5463 E: subscriptions@luxurytravelmedia.com.au W: luxurytravelmedia.com.au/subscribe

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* Routes between Melbourne - Vietnam, Vietnam - France, and Vietnam - Germany operated on Airbus A350.

Fare, tax and other fees are correct at time of printing, please contact Vietnam Airlines for more information.

1300 888 028

LT / P O S T C A R D F R O M T H E E D G E

THE FINAL FRONTIER SHIP’S LOG: MONDAY, JUNE 25, 2018 - 82° 55.5’ N, 017° 45.7’ E Foggy conditions, icy waters, light wind of 0-10 knots, 480 nautical miles from the North Pole.

Vessel and passengers safe and sound.

Luxury cruising broke new ground – not to mention ice – when Silversea’s Silver Cloud surpassed her highest-ever latitude on a 12-night voyage between Longyearbyen and Kristiansund, Norway, at the ice edge of the Arctic Ocean, much to the delight of her passengers and crew who gathered on the bow to witness this unique moment. What was once the frigid playground of sturdy (and decidedly basic) Russian ice-breakers is now the preserve of super-luxury cruise liners and expedition ships offering fascinating voyages of discovery to the world’s final frontiers. The global luxury ocean, river and expedition cruise market is booming like never before, with exceptional lines such as Crystal Cruises, Ponant, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Seabourn and Viking, to name just a few, offering five-star luxury, comfort and service in truly extraordinary locations. This special issue of Luxury Travel Magazine is a celebration of the finest luxury cruise lines and ships on the planet for whom the world knows no bounds. If you’ve never cruised before – or have sea-salt in your veins - there’s never been a more exciting time to sail on a voyage of discovery of your own. © Photograph by Bruno Cazarini, courtesy of Silversea Expeditions

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VALERIANO ANTONIOLI keeps the world moving

“ILTM remains the Key event in the high-end luxury industry….not being there would be missing out on an opportunity.”

Valeriano Antonioli, CEO Lungarno Collection

www.iltm.com/cannes

Cannes, 3 - 6 December 2018 #keeptheworldmoving

A R R I V A L S L O U N G E / LT

Good Morning,

Vietnam

VIETNAM HAS WELCOMED ITS LATEST FIVE-STAR HOTEL WITH THE OPENING OF THE NEW InterContinental Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort. Located on pristine Phu Quoc Island – a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve off the country’s southwest coast – the resort is thoughtfully designed for families, couples and individual travellers alike. Set on one of Vietnam’s most beautiful white-sand beaches, this striking luxury retreat offers 459 wellappointed guest rooms, suites and villas, six restaurants and bars, a signature spa, and an array of other upscale resort facilities. A 15-minute drive from Phu Quoc International Airport and only 20 minutes from the cultural attractions of Duong Dong town, this new destination hotel delivers a sophisticated and cosmopolitan vibe blended with the rustic charm of this little-known island. intercontinental.com/PhuQuoc

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Contact your travel professional for more details or email info@seadream.com

IT’S YACHTING, NOT CRUISING® | ENJOY THE DIFFERENCE

I N T R O D U C I N G / LT

MTA MOBILE TRAVEL AGENTS

ANTHONY WALKER UNCOVERS ONE OF A U S T R A L I A’ S B E S T - K E P T T R A V E L S E C R E T S T H AT ’ S B E E N 1 9 Y E A R S I N T H E M A K I N G

WHAT’S THE ONE THING A LUXURY TRAVELLER NEEDS TO KNOW above anything else? Is it a hot new destination that hasn’t yet appeared on the radar, the newest ‘it’ boutique resort, a once-in-a-lifetime cruise experience or where to gain a stack of status credits that open the door to every first-class airport lounge around the globe?

If Don Beattie, CEO of MTA – Mobile Travel Agents is correct, it’s a highly experienced travel expert who knows you, what you like, and what’s going to make your next trip an unforgettable experience.

Someone who can create the perfect travel itinerary, organise it from start to finish, and ensure your first-class business trip or coveted luxury holiday goes off without a hitch. Enter MTA, one of the best-kept secrets in the Australian travel industry for bespoke luxury experiences.

The company may not be the biggest name on the public stage – you won’t find the MTA brand in any shopping mall or on your local high street – but behind the scenes, MTA sits comfortably with the knowledge it has been the reason literally thousands of Australians have seen their travel plans come to memorable fruition.

To describe this award-winning luxury travel specialist as a “quiet achiever” would be very much an understatement given the company’s almost 19-year history. >>

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LT / I N T R O D U C I N G

Previous page and above: MTA and its members deliver some of the world’s most extraordinary travel experiences from Africa to Venice.

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travel brands, including Virtuoso, Belmond, Hyatt, Mandarin Oriental Hotels, The Peninsula Hotels, and Shangri-La Hotels & Resorts – another good reason to book your travel with an MTA member.

Industry peers, too, have recognised the company – MTA was named Best Travel Broker Network at the recent 2018 National Travel Industry Awards (NTIA).

Another advantage is the financial security that comes when dealing with MTA and its unique Zero Flight Risk product.

“If you’re travelling with an approved MTA supplier – and there are literally hundreds, from airlines to a small tour operator who might walk you around a city – we will guarantee against insolvency, at no extra cost,” says Beattie.

And for the luxury travel connoisseur who likes to stay ahead of the game, what’s the next big thing?

R “It’s not so much what’s the next big thing,” says E ND U Beattie.

“It’s what’s your next big thing? We might be O O-F M TA C looking at Belize because we know you like trekking and wildlife and natural experiences. Or it might be Ethiopia because we know you’re interested in tribal culture and archaeology.”

“There are no limits,” he adds. “Luxury is a forever journey.”

K

“MTA is not a travel agency in the traditional sense,” says Beattie, “but our ability to assist every one of our clients as if we were designing our very own travel experience is what sets us apart from the pack.

“We understand that every luxury traveller is different,” he adds.

“There’s no such thing as a one-size-fits-all travel experience – we design experiences for each traveller individually and irrespective of the requirement.”

According to Beattie, that might be seeing the rainbow witnessed by only a favoured few during the night of the full moon at Brazil’s Iguazu Falls; enjoying a Bellini while watching the sun sink into the Venetian lagoon, or discovering a completely different side to France aboard a luxury canal barge.

“We cover the spectrum,” says Beattie, “group travel, conferences, entertainment, niche product, bespoke and experiential travel.”

MTA and its Australian home-based travel consultancy model is the brainchild of Roy and Karen Merricks, who founded the award-winning company in 1999 while watching their young children playing in the sand on a Gold Coast beach.

What has evolved from their dream of creating a completely different way of delivering highly personalised travel experiences has, for close on two decades, seen MTA’s member numbers grow to 400 like-minded ‘dreamers’, all of whom manage successful home-based businesses.

All MTA members must have a minimum of 10 years’ experience before joining the company’s ranks, so clients can rest assured they are in highly proficient hands.

The company is also aligned with several of the world’s top luxury

The Details For more information on MTA – Mobile Travel Agents or to contact your closest member, visit mtatravel.com.au or call 1300 365 688.

World Leader of

Luxury Expeditions

AWAKEN

YOUR SENSE OF WONDER

EXPERIENCE LUXURY SMALL SHIP EXPEDITIONS The Arctic – Antarctica – The Kimberley – The Sub Antarctic Islands – Melanesia – Latin America

In the heart of remote regions, far from crowded maritime routes, your specialist PONANT Expedition team will introduce you to a world of pristine nature and fascinating ancestral cultures.

Marvel at some of the most unspoiled places on our planet, and enjoy Zodiac® outings that maximise time ashore, with many voyages featuring UNESCO-listed sites and visits that stimulate mind, body and soul.

Experience a unique combination of French lifestyle, refined adventure, comfort and intuitive service, sailing on modern small ships, featuring just 92 to 132 luxurious staterooms & suites.

Enjoy an Open Bar, relaxed lifestyle and all the facilities of the world’s leading luxury expedition ships. Zodiac® outings among majestic glaciers in Antarctica, wildlife observation in the Sub Antarctic Islands, visits to remote villages and tribes in the Pacific, encounters with the vibrant cultures of Latin America... which luxury expedition will you choose?

THE BEST OF SPITSBERGEN: Departs May, June & July 2020. 7 nights from $9,620 pp*(1) ICONIC KIMBERLEY: Departs 22nd July 2019. 10 nights from $11,150 pp*(2) ADVENTURE IN ORINOCO: Departs 25th November 2019. 12 nights from $7,220 pp*(3) EMBLEMATIC ANTARCTICA: Departs 24th November 2019. 10 nights from $13,150 pp*(1) More than 80 luxury small ship Expeditions are available, visit au.ponant.com Contact your Travel Agent or our PONANT Cruise Consultants on: Australia: 1300 737 178 | New Zealand: 0800 44 32 62 reservations.aus@ponant.com | au.ponant.com

*Ponant Bonus fare per person, in Australian Dollars, based on a double occupancy. Price includes port taxes, yield managed, correct at time of writing – 31/07/2018. Refer to au.ponant.com for further T & Cs. (1) In a Superior Stateroom. (2) In a Guaranteed Deluxe Stateroom.

(3) In a Deluxe Stateroom. Photographs: © PONANT: Laurence Fischer, F. Lefebvre. ABN: 35 166 676 517.

D I S C O V E R I E S / LT

From Alessi to Zegna A N E X C I T I N G N E W T R AV E L PA R T N E R S H I P O P E N S T H E D O O R T O S O M E O F I T A LY ’ S M O S T I C O N I C LU X U R Y B R A N D S , W R I T E S A N D R E W C O N WAY

ANY TRIP TO ITALY IS AN EXPERIENCE IN ITSELF, BUT WHAT if you could peel back the historic façades of Milan, Rome, Florence and Venice and go behind the scenes of some of the country’s bestknown luxury brands?

An intimate fashion show at the house of Versace, perhaps; a private test drive at Alfa Romeo, Ferrari or Maserati; or a memorable lesson in bespoke tailoring in the atelier of Ermenegildo Zegna?

All this, and much more, is now a reality thanks to the recent partnership of leading Italian institutions Altagamma and IC Bellagio offering exclusive access to a blue-chip portfolio of the world’s most prestigious luxury marques. >> l u x u r y t r a v el m a g .c o m .a u

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© Photographs courtesy of Altagamma and IC Bellagio

LT / D I S C O V E R I E S

Previous page and above: Azimut Benetti Group and René Caovilla are two of the luxury brands in Altagamma’s new Italian Experiences by IC Bellagio.

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window and seeing how beautiful things are made,” he adds. “And all Discerning visitors to Italy with a passion for cutting-edge style can of our people are so incredible, so passionate. Each experience is very transform their holidays into once-in-a-lifetime experiences with visits different and impactful.” to top fashion and design houses, five-star hotels, gourmet While Altagamma curates the brands and experiences, food firms and wine producers, high-octane car and IC Bellagio delivers the bespoke itineraries. yacht companies, jewellers and perfumers – all “For high-end Australian travellers looking for renowned for their quality, innovation, creativity, life-changing experiences of authentic Italy, we handicraft and customer service. can craft hassle-free and highly customised IC Bellagio has been delivering tailor-made itineraries that are perfectly matched for each travel experiences to Italy since 1999, but individual client,” says IC Bellagio CEO and its recent collaboration with the Altagamma founder Andrea Grisdale.

Foundation – promoting leading luxury According to Zegna, Altagamma Italian Italian brands worldwide – takes the Experiences allow guests to discover by concept to a new level. whom, where and how the brands are The collection currently comprises conceived, designed and produced, and with about 30 major brands, including Bottega what manufacturing skills and technologies.

Veneta, Brioni, Pucci, Zegna, Fendi and Gucci; “We’re confident our experiences will be enjoyed design icons Alessi and B&B Italia; premium A RM I by Australian travellers because we know they have car marques Alfa Romeo, Maserati, Ducati and A ER CH MEN A N always admired and appreciated Italian products, and Lamborghini; yacht companies such as Benetti, Perini EGILDO ZEG show a deep curiosity to know more about them,” he says.

Navi and Riva; jewellers Bulgari and Bucatelli, and perfumers “This is not just about promoting the individual companies, but such as Acqua di Parma, among others.

Italy as a wonderful destination and the quality of our products.

Each brand offers a different behind-the-scenes experience, carefully We’re offering the chance to add a little piece of the Italian culture tailored to each client’s preferences. and lifestyle to your itineraries.”

“Our experiences offer the possibility to go beyond what is normally visible of luxury Italian products,” says Paolo Zegna, vice president of the Altagamma Foundation on a recent visit to Australia. “You may The Details think you know these brands, but behind-the-scenes experiences like ours have not been available to the public before.”

For more information on the new Altagamma Italian Experiences by IC “One of the most fascinating things in life is looking behind the shop Bellagio and bookings, visit icbellagio.com.

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SILVERSEA SUMMER SAILINGS

THE LEADER IN LUXURY CRUISING SHE IS SIMPLY DIVINE. Silver Muse redefines ultra-luxury ocean travel – enhancing the small-ship intimacy and spacious all-suite accommodations that are the hallmarks of the Silversea experience. Once again Silversea significantly raises the bar in the ultra-luxury cruise market with a wealth of enhancements to the onboard experience, while satisfying the uncompromising requirements for comfort, service, and quality of the world’s most discerning travellers.

Following her inaugural season to Australia and New Zealand in 2018/2019, Silver Muse will spend more than four months in the region in 2019/2020, making this Silversea’s longest season here to date.

From Australia’s Great Barrier Reef and the crystal blue waters of New Caledonia to the captivating cultures of Fiji and New Zealand’s majestic fjords, amazing natural wonders will be unlocked through an extensive series of mostly 14-day immersive voyages, departing from Sydney or Auckland.

SILVER MUSE 2019 & 2020 SAILINGS VOYAGE

DATE

DAYS FROM/TO

FARES FROM

6930

18 Nov, 2019

18

Singapore to Sydney

AU$8,730pp*

6931

6 Dec, 2019

14

Sydney to Auckland

AU$7,560pp*

6932

20 Dec, 2019

14

Auckland to Sydney

AU$9,180pp*

6001

3 Jan, 2020

13

Sydney to Sydney

AU$6,300pp*

6002

16 Jan, 2020

16

Sydney to Auckland

AU$8,910pp*

6003

1 Feb, 2020

17

Auckland to Sydney

AU$9,450pp*

6004

18 Feb, 2020

14

Sydney to Sydney

AU$7,290pp*

6005

3 Mar, 2020

14

Sydney to Auckland

AU$8,280pp*

6006

17 Mar, 2020

14

Auckland to Sydney

AU$8,280pp*

6007

31 Mar, 2020

18

Sydney to Singapore

AU$8,910pp*

EXPERIENCE ALL-INCLUSIVE WHISPERED LUXURY ON SILVER MUSE • Elegant and spacious oceanview suites, most with a private veranda • Complimentary beverages, including champagne, wine, and spirits • Eight dining options, plus 24 hour complimentary room service • Authentic and personalised service and butler service for every suite • No more than 596 guests, with a service ratio of nearly 1 to 1 • Complimentary unlimited WiFi throughout • All gratuities included

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BOOK YOUR SILVERSEA VOYAGE, CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL, OR CALL SILVERSEA ON 1300 306 872 OR VISIT SILVERSEA.COM/SHIPS/SILVER-MUSE

FOR A LIMITED TIME ONLY, SAVE 10% ON SELECT VOYAGES WITH SILVERSEA'S EARLY BOOKING BONUS

All fares are in Australian dollars, per guest, based on double-occupancy in the lowest available suite category. *Indicates Early Booking Bonus savings offer - valid on new bookings, departing 1 January 2019 onwards if paid in full during promotional period. See website for promotional periods.10% savings already included in fares indicated. Fares correct at time of print 3 August 2018. Fares are capacity controlled and subject to change at any time without notice. Cancel/re-books do not qualify. Bookings made before or after the promotional periods will not qualify for savings. Other restrictions apply. All information herein is correct at time of printing and is subject to change at any time without notice. Silversea reserves the right to correct errors/omissions. Visit Silversea.com for full terms and conditions.

5 nights W E L L N E S S R E T R E AT + 2 BONUS NIGHTS FROM

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Applicable for Wellness Retreat packages only. Applicable for bookings made after 15th June 2018 only. Extra bed (if any) is included on bonus nights. Not applicable or combinable with other promotions or any other offers. The following code must be specified at reservations stage “AUS WELNESS 2018”. Amatara Wellness Reservation team E-mail: reservations.phuket@ amataraphuket.com. Indicative rate of AUD$3,350 is based on 5 night Wellness Retreat stay in June additional bonus night and average rate of exchange at time of production of flyer.

Offer is subject to availability and can be withdrawn at any time. Effective: 15 June 2018

F R E Q U E N T F LY E R / LT

The Points Whisperer ALEXANDER DALE MEETS A SYDNEY E N T R E P R E N E U R W H O H E L P S T U R N R E WA R D S P O I N T S I N T O B U S I N E S S C L A S S S E AT S

HOW MANY TIMES HAVE YOU TRIED TO BOOK A BUSINESS CLASS SEAT WITH frequent flyer points but given up in utter frustration? Do you even redeem rewards points on your credit cards, or are they largely unused from year to year?

If your answers to these questions are ‘many’, ‘no’ and ‘often’, you’re likely missing out on one of the great joys of modern air travel: turning left as you board the aircraft instead of right.

Trying to convert frequent flyer points into premium class airline seats is like searching for a needle in a haystack – a complex and time-consuming exercise leaving many individuals and companies giving up after weeks of online searches and fruitless phone calls. There has to be an easier way.

Steve Hui, CEO and founder of iFLYflat, is an enterprising Sydney-based company advising small to medium-sized businesses and high-spending consumers on how to choose the right credit cards, earn the most rewards points, and use those points to maximum effect on premium class upgrades.

“We help people fly business class without the business class price tag,” he says.

“If you have rewards points and want to put them to work, we’ll help you travel much more comfortably for much less money.”

This high-flying entrepreneur – known in travel industry circles as ‘The Points Whisperer’ – hit upon his bright idea about 10 years ago when he was working as an accountant at Macquarie Bank. >>

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© Photographs courtesy of American Airlines (left) and Etihad

LT / F R E Q U E N T F LY E R

Previous page and above: Collecting and redeeming frequent flyer points can open the door to cocoons of Business and First Class comfort and luxury.

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your points to get the best possible Business or First Class deal.

The cost is inclusive of airline fees, surcharges and airport taxes – and invoiced only after a successful booking is made – and is often a fraction the price of a standard Business or First Class ticket.

“If you don’t have the points, you can’t play the game,” says Hui, who also operates an advisory service helping clients choose the right credit cards, earn the most rewards points, and maximise those points on premium class upgrades.

“It’s a holistic approach, an end-to-end solution that helps you earn points and helps you spend them,” he says.

Hui isn’t advocating the use of credit cards for credit purposes, rather encouraging solvent companies and individuals to put as many work and lifestyle costs and expenses on their cards to maximise the return in rewards points.

“Once you realise those points have a significant value and you use them in a strategic way, you can save thousands of dollars in air travel and fly in comfort and style,” he says.

Hui insists he isn’t a travel agent or points broker, and doesn’t get special priority from the S R major airlines he works with. “We don’t control the DE N U seats, the airlines do, but we have learned to be really t FO i F LY F l a good at finding and booking those seats,” he says.

“We’re completely independent and impartial, and don’t favour one airline over another. We just use our knowledge of a complicated booking system to get our clients the best possible deals.”

TE

“I’d never flown Business Class until the bank sent me on a project to India,” he says. “I flew Business on one of Singapore Airlines’ first A380s and thought, wow, this is a whole new world of travel.”

Hui’s accounting brain kicked in, and after amassing frequent flyer points of his own and canvassing colleagues – who told him they rarely bothered with rewards points because it was too hard or complicated to redeem them – he soon realised there was a business opportunity.

He started approaching the owners of small to medium-size businesses who were spending large amounts of money but not capitalising on the rewards points they were – or could be – collecting.

“The feedback I got was they had points but didn’t think they had a value or they didn’t know how to use them,” says Hui. “The mechanism on how to use the points just wasn’t understood.

There was a disconnect from the points and they couldn’t see the prize.”

Charging a nominal fee, Hui started converting his clients’ points into Business Class upgrades and his fledgling iFLYflat business took off.

Six years on, he employs 11 staff in Sydney, Brisbane and overseas, redeems around 10 million rewards points a month on Business Class bookings, and estimates redeeming over 350 million points to date, amounting to more than 3,850 seats.

He now works with companies with turnovers of between $1 million and $50 million, saving them between 30 and 70 per cent off the cost of their business class travels.

Any company or individual working with Hui needs to have frequent flyer points – and lots of them – as upgrades can swallow up between 190,000 and 260,000 points depending on how far you want to fly.

Hui charges a base rate of between $1500 and $2500 per seat booking – again depending on where and how far you fly – and then uses

The Details For more information on Steve Hui, visit iflyflat.com.au

C E L E B R A T E S / LT

2018

O U R 1 4 T H A N N U A L R E A D E R S ’ C H O I C E AWA R D S

T H E E V E N T: LU X U R Y T R AV E L M AG A Z I N E G O L D L I S T 2 0 1 8 W I N N E R S ’ D I N N E R V E N U E : S O F I T E L S Y D N E Y W E N T W O R T H D A T E : T H U R S D A Y , J U LY 2 6 , 2 0 1 8 SPONSORED BY

Clockwise from top left: Philip Engelberts (COMO Shambhala) and Luxury Travel Magazine owner Gary Allen; actor David Berry; Gary Allen u r y t r aPhan. v el m a g .c o m .a u | and Jane Moggridge (Viking River Cruises); Editor Andrew Conway and CEO of Tod’s by ytd.,Yvonne Yeoh; influencers Tyler Reisz andl u xJody

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And the winners are …

BEST AUSTRALIAN RESORT QUALIA, HAMILTON ISLAND BEST OVERSEAS RESORT AYANA RESORT & SPA, BALI BEST AUSTRALIAN HOTEL SOFITEL MELBOURNE ON COLLINS BEST OVERSEAS HOTEL MANDARIN ORIENTAL HONG KONG BEST AUSTRALIAN BOUTIQUE HOTEL, VILLA OR LODGE PRETTY BEACH HOUSE, NSW BEST OVERSEAS BOUTIQUE HOTEL, VILLA OR LODGE VILLA SUNGAI, BALI BEST AUSTRALIAN SMALL HOTEL SAFFIRE FREYCINET, TASMANIA BEST OVERSEAS SMALL HOTEL SONG SAA PRIVATE ISLAND, CAMBODIA BEST SOUTH PACIFIC RESORT FOUR SEASONS RESORT BORA BORA, TAHITI BEST AUSTRALIAN HEALTH & WELLNESS RETREAT GWINGANNA LIFESTYLE RETREAT, QUEENSLAND BEST OVERSEAS HEALTH & WELLNESS RETREAT COMO SHAMBHALA ESTATE, BALI BEST AUSTRALIAN FAMILY RESORT CABLE BEACH CLUB RESORT & SPA, WA BEST OVERSEAS FAMILY RESORT JEAN-MICHEL COUSTEAU RESORT, FIJI 3 8 | lu xur y tr av elmag.com.au

This page, clockwise from top: Peter Hession (Mandarin Oriental Hotels) and Andrew Conway with Kyle LaMonica (qualia); Lauren Blank (Tourism New Zealand) and Gary Allen; influencer Lauren Vickers; Rashelle Toms (Captain’s Choice) with Gary Allen; model Brigitte Warne; Andrew Conway with Tracy Willis (Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat); Will Lehnertz (Qantas).

BEST AIRLINE BUSINESS CLASS QANTAS BEST AIRLINE FIRST CLASS ETIHAD BEST COUNTRY ITALY BEST OVERSEAS CITY PARIS BEST LUXURY TRAIN BELMOND VENICE SIMPLON-ORIENT-EXPRESS BEST SKI RESORT WHISTLER, CANADA BEST GOLF COURSE THE OLD COURSE AT ST ANDREWS, SCOTLAND BEST OCEAN CRUISE LINE SILVERSEA BEST RIVER CRUISE LINE VIKING RIVER CRUISES BEST EXPEDITION CRUISE LINE PONANT BEST AUSTRALIAN FOOD & WINE REGION YARRA VALLEY, VICTORIA BEST AUSTRALIAN PROPERTY IN A FOOD & WINE REGION LAKE HOUSE DAYLESFORD, VICTORIA BEST NEW ZEALAND HOTEL HUKA LODGE, LAKE TAUPO BEST NEW ZEALAND FOOD & WINE REGION MARLBOROUGH BEST NEW ZEALAND PROPERTY IN A FOOD & WINE REGION THE MARLBOROUGH LODGE

Above, clockwise from top left: Susie Cretan and Holly Chilman (Saffire Freycinet); Riva Williams and Patrick Essanga (Tod’s); Christine McCann (Jean-Michel Cousteau); Nicci Foulsham (Tourisme Tahiti); Lou Quinnell (AYANA) and Gary Allen; Emanuele Attanasio (Italian National Tourist Board); Monique Ponfoort (Ponant) and Gary Allen; Leanne Fonagy (Silversea) and Clive Scott (Sofitel Melbourne on Collins).

BEST TRAVEL AGENCY FBI TRAVEL BEST TOUR OPERATOR CAPTAIN’S CHOICE l u x u r y t r a v el m a g .c o m .a u

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LT / L U X U R Y T R A V E L N E W S

The Gold Coast welcomes a new gem

A Father’s Day gift that keeps on giving

The clock is counting down to the November opening of the first of four towers in the striking billion-dollar Ruby Collection development on the Gold Coast. With 230 one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments, as well as 13 ground-floor villas, phase one of Ruby Apartments will appeal equally to families, couples and five-star hotel junkies chasing the sun. An on-call team of “ambassadors” promises elevated levels of customer service, while a 50 percent off pre-opening sale will have you planning a Gold Coast escape pronto. Book a Sky Suite for the ultimate room with a view. therubycollection.com.au

Australia’s Lancemore boutique hotels have Dad covered this Father’s Day with a series of indulgent packages that will relegate those not-so-happy socks to the bottom drawer.

Whether it’s lounging by the pool at the lovely Alamanda Palm Cove, a downtown city escape at the Larmont Sydney or a gourmet weekend at one of three gorgeous Victorian retreats including the very grand Mansion Hotel & Spa just 30 minutes from downtown Melbourne, Dad will be tickled pink. Possibly a deep pinot noir pink, if he’s lucky enough to receive a weekend at Lindenderry at Red Hill on the beautiful Mornington Peninsula. lancemore.com.au

New-look oceanfront resort in Hua Hin rolls out the red carpet What began life as a popular oceanfront restaurant, later morphing into a luxury retreat, has re-opened following a stylish, eco-savvy makeover of all 40 guest suites and chef Supanee J Ketbumrung’s famous eatery. Let’s Sea Hua Hin Al Fresco Resort is well known for its cutting-edge design, entirely local staff and friendly neighbourhood vibe, with luxury pool access Jacuzzi Suites lining a 120-metre lagoon pool.

This makeover reaffirms its environmental credentials with new eco-friendly air-con, smart showers and a peaceful wellbeing pavilion. letussea.com

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L U X U R Y T R A V E L N E W S / LT

United’s new Polaris business class lounge in Houston is runway ready Forget champagne and fancy toiletries (although these are important), long-haul travellers want one thing above all else; sleep. To make this easier, United Airlines’ Polaris Business Class provides a seamless service between lounge and cabin. The opening of a sleek new lounge at Houston’s George Bush Intercontinental Airport is great news for travellers boarding the non-stop Sydney service launched in January. With six luxury shower suites, two private daybeds, even a personal valet service offering garment pressing, the new lounge will have you looking good and snooze-ready for that long flight home. Oh, and did we mention the Saks Fifth Avenue bedding and cooling gel pillows? They help, too. united.com

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Qantas and the art of flying: designers take to the skies with colourful kits Lucky Qantas passengers have art at their fingertips thanks to a covetable collection of Business Class amenity kits designed by leading Australian artists, photographers and digital influencers. The kit bags are such fun they’re a doddle to repurpose as make-up pouches, an evening clutch or somewhere stylish to stash the phone and all

Vietnam Airlines goes flat out with premium economy seats Melbourne travellers flying to Ho Chi Minh City can now look forward to more legroom and near-flat reclining seats in Premium Economy as Vietnam Airlines upgrades to its new Airbus A350 aircraft.

This is the first time the award-winning airline has deployed the long-range, widebodied aircraft in Australia and follows growing demand on the Melbourne route.

Replacing existing Boeing 787s, the new fleet is being progressively rolled out with a completion date of late October. vietnamairlines.com

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those pesky cords. At the moment, we’re enjoying Billie Justice Thomson’s good-enough-to-eat fairy bread-daubed bags and Jon Campbell’s graphic interpretation of the casual Aussie honorific: “maaate” (the perfect accessory in LA, don’t you think?). There are six leading designers still to come, so we’ll keep you posted. qantas.com

L U X U R Y T R A V E L N E W S / LT

Kamalaya heals the mind and body

The One&Only way to wellness

Thailand has long been renowned for its approach to healthy living, and since its inception in 2005, Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary and Holistic Spa has embraced the spirit of healing via personal and collective transformation.

This concept has been further elevated until December with a series of Life Enhancement Group Retreats. The retreats, each with a maximum of 12 participants, focus on finding emotional balance and freedom, awakening your essential self, and yin and yang yoga. They will be led by Kamalaya’s Life Enhancement Mentors and experts, all highly trained in ancient and modern techniques to bring out the best in everyone. kamalaya.com/retreats-thailand

Until November, Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley will host a series of wellness escapes, with the crisp Blue Mountains air and whisper-quiet bush making the perfect setting for one-on-one sessions with leading practitioners, including Sodashi founder Megan Larsen and Sydney yoga guru Kate Kendall. If chasing the sun is more your thing, check out Mexico’s lauded destination spa at One&Only Palmilla in Los Cabos. A new Temazcal detox and healing plan inspired by ancient local lore, combining medicinal herbs and steam with indigenous music and copal incense, should shake loose those cobwebs. oneandonlyresorts.com

An open window to authentic India Getting under the skin of a place is stock in trade for award-winning travel writer, photographer and Luxury Travel Magazine editor-at-large Michael Gebicki. Join him next year on two intriguing “small and slow” adventures in Rajasthan (February) and Morocco (April) where group size is limited to 10 and there’s ample time to “wander, browse, taste and shop”. Stroll Delhi’s spice market; explore Rajasthan’s villages and warrior forts, and see desert antelope and possibly leopards. In Morocco, you’ll start in Casablanca, visit the medina in Fes, ancient ruins at Volubilis, cross the Atlas Mountains, and spend a couple of nights in the Sahara before winding up in Marrakech.

Contact Michael for information at tripwired.com.au

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WE KNOW LUXURY. Indulge | Explore | Journey The world’s most luxurious addresses with our unmatched complimentary offers. Once-in-a-lifetime customised itineraries from our award-winning specialised agents. The latest premium inflight products and onboard offers available to luxury travellers.

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V I S I T A N D S I G N U P F O R YO U R N E W S L E T T E R AT

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LUXURY CRUISING 2018

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luxury cruising OCEAN • RIVER • EXPEDITION

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C O V E R S T O R Y / LT

Full Steam Ahead LUXURY CRUISING IS RIDING THE CREST OF A WAV E , A N D T H E R E ’ S N E V E R B E E N A B E T T E R T I M E – O R WAY – TO E X P LO R E T H E W O R L D W o r d s b y A N D R E W C O N W AY

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A

t any given time, on any given day, a luxury cruise ship is slipping its moorings and heading towards the open ocean, along a slow-moving river, or exploring the wildest and most remote destinations on the planet.

It could be Crystal Serenity sailing gracefully out of Monte Carlo on a chic Mediterranean sojourn; Viking Heimdal cruising languidly under the historic bridges of Budapest; Silver Explorer standing by off the coast of Vancouver as a pod of orca whales splashes in front of its bow, or MS Europa 2 on its inaugural voyage to Japan.

So many ships, ports, destinations, unforgettable experiences and choices. Luxury cruising is now the fastestgrowing sector of the global travel market, a multi-billiondollar industry that knows no bounds.

The steamer trunks may have disappeared, along with the hat boxes, white tails and smoking jackets, but a new golden age of luxury cruising – with a thoroughly modern twist – has dawned.

More Australians are cruising than ever before and more ships are rolling off international production lines, each bigger, smaller and better than the last one.

Humble cabins have been transformed into spacious and luxurious staterooms, suites and penthouses, all with private balconies to watch the waves pass by. Single-seating dining and dreaded midnight buffets have been brushed aside, replaced by an array of chic celebrity-chef restaurants delivering the world on a plate.

And forget keeping fit and healthy on the promenade deck.

Today’s luxury liners boast extraordinary wellness retreats and spas operated by the finest on-land brands.

Silver service comes in the form of neatly pressed butlers, while curated and exclusive shore excursions open doors to a private world of luxury in palaces, castles, vintage wineries, art galleries and museums.

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Luxury ocean and river cruises are expanding like never before, with an armada of liners and longships offering a seemingly endless choice of new destinations and itineraries.

But perhaps the most exciting change is in luxury expedition cruising, with brand new, purpose-built and ecologically sound small ships taking fortunate and wellheeled passengers to the world’s final frontiers from the North Pole to the Antarctic, and all points in between.

The age of luxury cruise passengers is dropping like an anchor, down from the mid-70s of yesteryear to the late 40s of today. And more major cruise lines are basing their flagships in Australian waters than ever before.

Barely a day goes by during Sydney’s busy summer cruise season when a liner of varying size and style isn’t berthed at the Overseas Passenger Terminal or White Bay Cruise Terminal.

Cruise industry hype? Think again. The latest annual Source Market Report by Cruise Lines Industry Association (CLIA) Australasia reveals Australian cruise passenger

Previous pages: Hapag-Lloyd Cruises’ EUROPA 2 powers across the Mediterranean Sea, en route to her next captivating port.

numbers hit another record high last year with 1.34 million Clockwise from passengers taking a cruise. top left: Silver The local cruise market grew by 4.4 per cent, equating to Explorer; one of Crystal Cruises’ almost six percent of the population in 2017, putting Australia stunning suites; on par with the US as the world’s fastest-growing cruise market. Regent Seven Accounting for 5.4 per cent of the 27.6 million people Seas Explorer; al fresco dining worldwide who took a cruise in 2017, Australasia is now the on Seabourn world’s fourth largest cruise region.

Encore; sleek And CLIA Australasia Managing Director Joel Katz says there spa facilities on board Ponant. is still so much more potential. “As cruising continues to grow in popularity, more cruise lines will base more ships down under and the number of homeports and itineraries will only grow,” he says.

“With the equivalent of almost one in every 18 Australians cruising last year, Australians are overwhelmingly choosing a cruise as their holiday of choice and they’re coming back time and time again.”

The majority of Australians are cruising in local waters, New Zealand and the South Pacific, while the average age of Australian passengers is now just 49 years old. >>

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Chic dining on board EUROPA 2 fuses contemporary style with gourmet food and wine.

CLIA’s most astonishing revelation is this: 109 new cruise ships, the majority of them luxury, are scheduled to be delivered globally between now and 2027 at a total cost of more than US$58 billion.

So, what’s the essence of this new wave in high-end travel?

“Today’s luxury cruise passenger is seeking freedom and choice,” says Amanda McCelland, CEO of Cruiseco, the largest distributor of luxury cruise product in the southern hemisphere.

“They expect cutting-edge design, amazing personalised service, ‘wow’ experiences, and the freedom to do what they want, when they want, and how they want.

“My idea of luxury cruising is being with like-minded people who share similar interests, along with a curated experience and great value,” she adds. “Luxury cruising must cater to the individual’s needs, wants and desires, such as dining in the comfort of your suite or stateroom or in one of the ship’s five-star restaurants.”

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Luxury cruise lines – especially those with small expeditionary ships – are becoming ever more creative with ideas to enhance their passengers’ personal experiences. “We work to overlay the expected with the unexpected,” says Monique Ponfoort, Ponant’s Vice President Asia Pacific.

“The ship’s captain inviting you to the bridge for a personal overview; an expedition team member taking time to chat to you about her time in Borneo working with orphan orangutans; a Zodiac driver moving closer to a saltwater crocodile so you can get that special photograph; or the surprise champagne bar popping up in the middle of nowhere,” she adds.

“Ponant overlays this level of detail when exploring some of the most remote places on Earth, meeting with Inuits in the Arctic, small tribes in New Guinea or in the Amazon Basin.

These are rare moments that add extraordinary layers to the word ‘luxury’.”

“Luxury cruising today is about choice – and quality of choice – for people who want to travel in elegance and luxury all over the world,” says Karen Christensen, who helms the five-star, all-inclusive Crystal Cruises in Australia and New Zealand.

“The special moments Crystal provides are so strong and impactful that people don’t feel the need to go anywhere else.

From the second our guests step on board a Crystal ship, the warm, attentive service, the contemporary and spacious design, acclaimed Michelin-inspired dining, and carefully curated shoreside experiences are all effortlessly delivered.”

Christensen says the company has seamlessly integrated its signature ‘Crystal Experience’ across all four of its luxury brands – ocean, river, expedition, and exclusive private jet Crystal Sky. “This attention to detail has remained true to Crystal’s original cornerstones of service, space, quality and choices, and to me, the essence of luxury cruising goes far beyond the ships themselves to the itineraries and shoreside experiences, immersing guests in new cultures and destinations around the globe," says Christensen.

The world’s most fascinating ports, from Norway to the highlands of Papua New Guinea and the Antarctic, await guests on a luxury cruise.

“We have a comprehensive collection of destination experiences focused on authenticity,” she adds, “many tailored to guests’ individual interests and passions, from food and wine to culture, art and music. Crystal recognises that today’s luxury traveller desires that personal touch, from the ship to the shore.”

While major cruise lines are spending billions of dollars on new and refurbished ships and services to stay relevant to the incessant needs and demands of contemporary travellers, they also have to keep pace with the everchanging concept of ‘luxury’ in today’s crowded and highly segmented tourism market.

A very high level of accommodation, food, wine and service, along with quality linen, toiletries, room service, and well-organised shore tours are now a given at the top end of the luxury cruising market.

A handful of the most luxurious lines offer all-suite and all-inclusive cruises to stay one step ahead of the competition. Regent Seven Seas Cruises, for example, includes free and unlimited shore excursions on all of its ships – Seven Seas Explorer, Mariner, Voyager and Navigator – with optional bespoke tours if guests want to pay to elevate their onshore experiences.

And the new Seven Seas Splendor, scheduled to launch in 2020, will raise the bar even higher. “Splendor will be a game changer and set a new standard in luxury cruising,” says Steve Odell, Managing Director Asia Pacific of Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings (NCHL), which owns Regent, the premium Oceania Cruises, and the leviathan Norwegian Cruise Line.

Odell says NCHL has spent US$125 million on refurbishments to Seven Seas Mariner, Voyager and Navigator in the past 18 months – good news for Australian cruise enthusiasts as Mariner will be here in December and Navigator will follow in her wake next February. >>

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C O V E R S T O R Y / LT Even mass market mega-liners are cruising into the luxury segment with Norwegian Cruise Line incorporating an exclusive concept called The Haven into its seven mega-liners.

“It’s a suite-only concierge space with a private restaurant and bar, guests are fast-tracked everywhere, get priority dining reservations, and can use all the facilities of the ship or relax in The Haven,” says Odell, a 30-year veteran of the global cruise industry.

“It’s a very appealing concept to the extended and multigenerational family market where grandparents and parents can enjoy the luxury and privacy of The Haven while the kids go off and enjoy all the ship has to offer.”

The luxury cruising industry’s approach to younger, extended and multi-generational guests is catering to new and emerging demographics.

Yuppies and Dinks of previous generations are now Henrys High Earners, Not Rich Yet – and Skip-Gens, a rapidly growing multitude of well-heeled grandparents who are taking their grandchildren travelling instead of their own children.

Henrys are individuals in successful jobs, have significant discretionary income and a strong chance of being wealthy in the future, and are very familiar with the leading luxury brands.

While Henrys might think cruising is for an older generation, they are dipping their manicured toes into luxury river cruising with companies like Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection.

This award-winning line has 18 sleek river cruisers in Europe and worldwide – all delivering on the credo: “No request too large, no detail too small" – and offers U by Uniworld, a new take on experiential luxury cruising specifically tailored to a younger but high-income market (read more about luxury cruising trends, page 60).

Expedition cruising is undergoing one of the biggest and most exciting transformations. Once the remote domain of sturdy and non-stabilised Russian ice-breakers – with basic cabins, simple food and burly crew – today’s version can be five-star luxury all the way.

Leading the charge to explore the planet’s final frontiers – from the North Pole to Antarctica – is French luxury

Clockwise from top left: A Viking River Cruises ship; SeaDream Yacht Club’s SeaDream II on a European sojourn; Oceania Cruises is a leader in culinary cruises; river cruising in contemporary style with U by Uniworld.

expedition cruise line Ponant which currently has its original masted ship Le Ponant, four sister ships built between 2010 and 2015, and a flotilla of luxury Explorer vessels recently launched or on order in the next three years.

The brand new Le Laperouse is currently cruising Iceland and will sail to Australia in 2019. A sibling will also launch this year with two more in 2019, another two in 2020, and a luxury icebreaker setting sail in 2021.

Sarina Bratton AM, Ponant’s Chairman Asia Pacific and a pioneer of the luxury cruising industry here, says the new Explorer ships will have only 90 staterooms and suites with private balconies. “They have a real feel of being on a private super-yacht,” she says.

“And our new eco-friendly luxury icebreaker will be state-of-the-art hybrid electric, powered by LNG, able to cut through two metres of ice, and take guests in luxury to the North Pole. And it’s just the beginning, a glimpse of what the next generation of expedition cruising will look like.”

“Luxury means different things to different people,” says Leanne Fonagy, Director of Marketing Asia-Pacific for Silversea Cruises, “and the nature of luxury is changing, replacing ostentation and opulence with authentic, sophisticated and memorable experiences.

“For Silversea, the true essence of the experience we offer is one of intimate and whispered luxury. Our guests are very well travelled and searching for new destinations and enriching life experiences. They appreciate luxury, comfort and value, but they are actively seeking a deeper travel experience – up close, immersive and authentic.”

Managing director of award-winning cruise specialist Wiltrans International Diane Patrick, who has represented some of the world’s best-known luxury cruise brands for three decades, insists the market has never been more exciting.

“This is a wonderful time to be in cruising and to be cruising,” she says. “The evolution of the ships, onboard products and services has been so dynamic through the years, and I only see it getting better.”

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Modern Mariner A LU X U R Y V OYAG E F R O M VA N C O U V E R TO S E W A R D S H O W C A S E S A L A S K A’ S A W E - I N S P I R I N G W I L D E R N E S S , W R I T E S S A L LY M A C M I L L A N

SAILING OUT OF CANADA’S SPECTACULAR PORT CITY OF VANCOUVER on a crisp spring evening, toasting the occasion with a glass of perfectly chilled Champagne, sets the tone for a leisurely seven-night cruise to Seward, Alaska.

We’re onboard the recently refurbished Regent Seven Seas Mariner, an exceptionally spacious and luxurious ship for only 700 passengers – and, of course, the 445 crew members offering an uncompromising level of service.

A day’s scenic cruising through the Inside Passage allows time to explore the ship, take in an entertaining lecture by anthropologist Terry Breen about the history, culture and wildlife of the vast 49th state, then meet the captain and officers for cocktails in the evening.

Seven Seas Mariner is elegant, inside and out. Over the course of the cruise, we sample just about every restaurant, cafe, lounge and bar; I didn’t manage to squeeze in a massage or facial, but the Canyon Ranch Spa is a beautiful, calm space and offers an extensive spa menu.

Regent Seven Seas Cruises (RSSC) has invested US$125 million on ‘Explorer-ising’ its fleet of sister ships – Seven Seas Mariner, Voyager and Navigator – since launching its uber-luxury flagship Seven Seas Explorer in 2016, and Mariner looks and feels magnificent. >>

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Regent Seven Seas Mariner’s new look is the epitome of luxury, its blue and cream colour palette elevated in the main restaurant, Compass Rose, by chandeliers and marble walls.

While the entire ship received a facelift, its restaurants were stripped to the steel and completely rebuilt – the main dining room, Compass Rose, is decked with crystal chandeliers and chic marble walls; Prime 7, the ship’s specialty steakhouse, features dramatic lighting and a rich cream-and-blue colour palette; and Chartreuse, the French restaurant that made its debut on Seven Seas Explorer, replaces Signatures. The standard of wining, dining and service in all venues is exemplary, although being something of a Francophile, Chartreuse is my favourite.

Mariner’s luxe all-suite accommodations range from two extraordinary 260-square-metre master suites through 13 categories of beautifully appointed sanctuaries.

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All suites have private balconies, 24-hour room service, a minibar that’s replenished daily and free WiFi; guests staying in Concierge Suites and above have a free night’s pre-cruise accommodation and those in Penthouse Suites and above have a personal butler.

Our deluxe veranda suite on Deck 8 is gorgeous, decorated in stylish, restful shades of blue – and it’s always lovely to be greeted with a bottle of Champagne and a bowl of fresh fruit when you embark.

At our first port of call, Ketchikan, a few hardy sun-lovers bask by the newly minted mosaic-tiled pool, even though we are surrounded by rugged snow-streaked mountains.

RSSC offers an impressive range of complimentary shore excursions at every port (plus optional ones for an extra cost if you want to elevate your onshore experience).

In Alaska, the focus is on adventurous activities such as fishing, flightseeing, wildlife-spotting, dog-sledding, canoeing and hiking as well as cultural tours encompassing ancient Native Indian culture and more recent history.

Ketchikan, like two other ports we visit – Juneau and Skagway – is a former gold-rush town. It’s also known as the salmon capital of the world, so fishing expeditions are popular; floatplane and boat trips to nearby Misty Fjords, part of the massive Tongass National Forest, are among other exciting excursions on offer.

The Totem Heritage Center is a short walk beyond Ketchikan’s busy waterfront boardwalks and well worth a visit. It houses one of the world’s largest collections of original, 19th-century totem poles along with contemporary Northwest Coast art and traditional >>

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thousands of years of Tlingit ownership and a century of Russian colonisation.

The Russians famously sold Alaska to America in 1867 for US$7.2 million, or about two cents an acre. Evidence of both cultures abounds, from the Russian Orthodox St Michael’s Cathedral to Totem Park, a battleground where Tlingits fought the Russian fur hunters in 1804.

Our guide takes our small group in and out of misty bays, where silence drips from ancient spruce and hemlock trees and reflections hardly waver on the still water. It’s magical, but sadly we don’t spot any bears.

Over the past few days we have seen bald eagles, ravens, porpoises, sea lions and dozens of Dall sheep, but I’m still hankering for a bear-sighting.

While we are sailing close to the magnificent Hubbard Glacier the next day, I’m advised by Dagmar, Mariner’s destinations services manager, that the best time for bear-spotting is late July, when the salmon are running – which gives me the perfect excuse for booking a return voyage on Mariner to one of the world’s most awe-inspiring wilderness areas.

Above left: The historic White Pass Scenic Railroad in Skagway, and Mendenhall Glacier Park in Juneau.

The Details Regent Seven Seas Cruises is offering an array of seven-day Alaska sailings aboard the newly renovated Seven Seas Mariner between Vancouver and Seward from June to September next year.

Fares start from $6480 per person (twin share), based on a Deluxe Veranda Suite.

For more information and fares on all Regent Seven Seas Cruises, call 1300 455 200, visit rssc.com, or contact your cruise specialist travel agent.

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artefacts made by Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian people.

Alaska’s intriguing capital, Juneau, has a smaller population than Anchorage and can only be reached by sea or air, but its citizens have long resisted attempts to move the capital elsewhere.

Seven Seas Mariner offers 24 signature excursions: the helicopter glacier trek, which drops guests on the mighty Mendenhall Glacier for a two-hour guided walk on the ice, is a thoroughly exhilarating experience. Even more popular is dog-sledding on the glacier, which also involves a scenic helicopter flight (make sure you sign up well in advance).

Then there are brewery tours, canoeing on Mendenhall Lake, salmon bakes and gold-panning adventures. Whale-watching in the evening is another unusual option – Mariner stays in port until 11pm when it’s still light in midsummer Alaska. Local operators guarantee whale sightings and give guests a US$100 refund if the humpbacks don’t come out to play.

The historic White Pass Scenic Railroad is Skagway’s main attraction. Built between 1898 and 1900, the railway winds its way from sea level to about 915 metres at the summit.

Immaculately maintained trains haul vintage and reproduction carriages along 32 kilometres of vertiginous mountain passes and gorges, through tunnels and past what was once the world’s tallest cantilever bridge.

It’s a thrilling journey, and humbling to learn how thousands of desperate gold prospectors in the 1890s made their way on foot along the hazardous Chilkoot Trail.

Our final landing is at Sitka, a picturesque port that only allows a limited number of smaller cruise ships to dock there. Sitka’s history is a rich and bloody entanglement of

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Sea Change

MICHAEL GEBICKI CHARTS A COURSE THROUGH THE MOST EXCITING TRENDS IN OCEAN, RIVER AND EXPEDITION LUXURY CRUISING

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decade ago, I cruised from Iceland to the fiords of Greenland and then to Norway on a Russian ice ship.

The adventure factor was five-star, but cabins were basic and the first course at dinner was borscht. Today you can do the same cruise on a super-luxury liner with suites, an array of fine-dining restaurants and a signature spa. How times have changed. Authenticity, cultural immersion, bespoke tours and fine regional food and wine experiences – the very things travellers are looking for in a land-based luxury holiday – are now delivered in extraordinary style on a cruise. And, according to leading Australian luxury cruising experts, trends are emerging.

The new (and younger) cruise passenger “Our passengers are not only getting younger, they’re much more active,” says Lisa Pile, Vice President Sales of Regent Seven Seas Cruises. “We’re not quite seeing millennials yet, but the demographics are definitely changing. I’ve seen this on our Alaska cruise personally.

I went down for an early morning spin class and the gym was packed, I couldn’t believe it. Super fit people, it’s just fantastic.”

“Many more people in the 45-plus age group are considering luxury cruising,” says Diane Patrick, a leading Sydney-based cruise specialist for Wiltrans International, representing Paul Gauguin Cruises, which sails in Tahiti, French Polynesia and the South Pacific. “That puts Paul Gauguin in the spotlight because we can offer luxury yacht cruising in some of the most wonderful parts of the South Pacific, all within very easy reach for Australian cruisers. They can fit an exceptional sevennight luxury cruise into an eight-night trip out of Australia.”

Millennials are even getting on board river cruising. “Uniworld has launched a new adults-only river cruise experience in 2018,” says Fiona Dalton, Managing Director of Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection in Australia. “U by Uniworld is aimed directly at a younger generation, with its very own sleek black ships and using the ships in a very different way – part waterfront hotel, part taxi, part nightclub, part yoga studio, part café. We’ve had fantastic feedback following our launch in April.”

Extraordinary ships or extraordinary destinations?

“Both,” says Jane Moggridge, General Manager Marketing and Communications of Viking River Cruises. “Many luxury cruisers have travelled extensively and they’re seeking new and immersive cultural experiences. Places that retain cultural integrity and offer an incredible experience untainted by crowds. We’ve seen some lines building bigger and more over-the-top ships, but at Viking we think travel should be about exploration, cultural immersion and personal enrichment. That’s why our ships feature open and airy, serene and unpretentious design, have guest lecturers, a Viking Resident Historian and, on Viking Orion, a Resident Astronomer.”

Other cruise experts agree. “People are looking for something different in the ships they are travelling on, for destinations that are being done differently and there’s a big appetite for completely new destinations,” says Mandy Dwyer, Communications Manager of Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours. “Next year Scenic will be visiting northern Russia, the Norwegian fjords, the White Sea, and do a complete lap of Iceland. But cruisers are also looking at the quality of the ship, the amenities and dining options – those are also major factors.”

Vintage wine and food experiences In 2018, luxury cruising is all about immersion in both the ship and the destinations it’s sailing to, especially when it comes to quality food and wine. Locally sourced produce, regional menus that reflect the ship’s itinerary, wines from the country, and interaction with the on-board chefs are all in high demand.

“There’s a desire for even more regionally paired food and wine experiences that bring our guests even closer to the destinations they’re sailing in,” says Uniworld’s Dalton. “For example, our ship in Paris boasts a fabulous restaurant, a French bistro and a Parisian supper club, while the SS Beatrice, our newest ship on the Eastern Danube, has a number of new dining venues all reflecting a very Austrian and Hungarian style of dining.”

“It’s all about variety at every mealtime,” says Viking’s Moggridge. >>

Opposite top: The new Scenic Eclipse will debut next January; Below: Elegant dining on Uniword’s SS Beatrice.

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Regent Seven Seas Explorer’s spa. Below, rich history history at The Hermitage in St Petersburg; opposite, colourful marine life on a Paul Gauguin cruise in Tahiti.

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C O V E R S T O R Y / LT “One of our most popular dining experiences is The Kitchen Table where the ship’s executive chef takes guests on an interactive culinary adventure. They’ll handpick ingredients from local markets and help prepare regional dishes before dining with the ship’s culinary director.

These excursions are incredibly popular and the dinners often go late into the night.”

Market tours with the chef are also popular. “We offer the Scenic Culinaire on some of our French itineraries,” says Dwyer. “Guests visit the local market with the chef, help select the produce and back at the ship they’ll reproduce some of the local dishes. That’s always booked out.”

A voyage to health and wellness

Luxury is a shore thing “People are looking for a more immersive onshore experience, not just seeing the sights, and that’s exactly what Regent Seven Seas offers,” according to Pile. “In Naples, some want to see Pompeii, others might want to see Sorrento and the Amalfi coast, and others might want to do a wine-tasting or visit markets and do a cooking class.

They want to feel like a local, not an onlooker.”

Says Moggridge: “Guests want more intimate and meaningful onshore experiences, including private access to privileged experiences.

Our Viking Culture Curriculum offers unique experiences, like visiting the home of a local family to break bread and share homemade vodka over a traditional meal, to exploring sealed vaults at the Hermitage.”

And according to Dalton: “Guests want to understand more, and that comes from personal engagement. Usually it’s about understanding local life, significant historical events that have led to today’s world, or exclusive experiences that are only possible with Uniworld, such as early opening visits accompanied by a curator to the world’s great art galleries and museums in Europe.”

Sustainability is the word In a world where coral reefs, fish stocks, ice caps and shorelines are under threat from climate change, eco-conscious travellers are looking for evidence that their chosen cruise line is operating with the same awareness and integrity.

“Paul Gauguin has a Stewards of Nature program for children and families,” says Wiltrans’ Patrick. “It operates in partnership with the Wildlife Conservation Society and it’s all about educating guests about coral reef and Pacific islands ecology with naturalist-led island and beach excursions. We’re operating in remote and often pristine places and we take great care to leave as small a footprint as possible.”

At Viking, the relatively young fleet was built with sustainability in mind, explains Moggridge. “Viking’s ocean ships were designed from the start with the environment in mind, feature energy-efficient hybrid engines, streamlined hulls and bows for maximum fuel efficiency, on board solar panels, and equipment that minimises exhaust pollution,” she says.

At Uniworld guests are given metal refillable water cannisters, which saves over 500,000 plastic water bottles per year, according to Dalton.

“Our parent company, The Travel Corporation, has announced its commitment to phase out single use plastics in all our operations by 2020, and we in Uniworld are already taking steps to do as much as we can by removing plastic straws and many other single-use plastics,” she adds.

Scenic is also implementing policies to reduce single-use plastic as part of a broader program. “We’re putting funds into local communities to develop clean water initiatives,” says Dwyer. “Cruise operators can set an example for good environmental practice particularly where they visit remote communities, as Scenic does on some of its Asian itineraries.”

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In a world of personal trainers, gym memberships and paleo diets, cruise ships are going head-to-head with luxury spa resorts in the wellness stakes.

“Uniworld’s Wellness on the Water program was ground-breaking when it began five years ago and it has been evolving ever since,” according to Dalton. “Every cruise has its own wellness coach and the wellness experience includes morning yoga, TRX or tai chi on the ship extending to our ‘Let’s Go’ ground program.”

Regent Seven Seas is also focused on health and wellness. “Our wonderful spas and wellness centres on are run by world-renowned Canyon Ranch Spa,” says Pile. “They also have a spa menu on board with programs for people who are watching their weight or want to work on specific aspects of their health.”

Aboard some vessels the on-board spas reflect the origins of the cruise line. “The Scandinavian-style spa on board our Viking Ocean Cruise ships is inspired by the Nordic approach to holistic wellbeing,” says Moggridge. “Quality time in a sauna followed by a cold dip in an icy lake is the embodiment of Scandinavia and this tradition is emulated in Viking’s Nordic Bathing Ritual, a traditional hot sauna followed by a cold bucket shower, a cold plunge pool or a visit to Viking’s exclusive Snow Grotto.”

“All of Scenic Space Ships have wellness centres,” according to Dwyer. “Scenic Sapphire and Scenic Diamond feature a vitality pool and a Salt Therapy Lounge and our clients can spend as much time as they like there.”

For more details and bookings, visit: Regent Seven Seas Cruises, rssc.com Paul Gauguin Cruises, pgcruises.com Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection, uniworld.com Viking River Cruises, vikingrivercruises.com.au Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours, scenic.com.au

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Reverie on the Rhône M A D E L I N T O M E LT Y T A K E S A R E L A X E D V I K I N G RIVER CRUISE THROUGH SOME OF THE PRETTIEST TOWNS AND COUNTRYSIDE IN FRANCE

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’ve just discovered, after years of considering myself quite the cheese connoisseur, that hard cheese is in fact best paired with red wine – a Burgundy pinot noir, perhaps – and not white.

I’m in the gastronomic capital of Lyon in the south of France, so my years-long blunder could possibly be forgiven, but I haven’t learned this in one of the city’s many Michelinstar restaurants or at an iconic Lyonnaise red-and-whitecheck tablecloth bouchon.

Rather, I’m no more than an hour settled on board the luxury river cruise longship Viking Heimdal and have already found myself at an enlightening (not to say delicious) cheese and wine tasting.

This epicurean learning turns out to be the first of many morsels of wisdom I devour over the next seven days as I cruise leisurely down the Rhône from Lyon to Avignon in one of the prettiest and historically revered parts of France.

Glass of chilled chardonnay in hand, I take a seat on the Aquavit Terrace – Heimdal’s impressive alfresco dining area, positioned at the bow of the longship. It affords me a panoramic view of Lyon’s Pont de l’Université (University Bridge) from our docked position on the river, and as I relax, letting the warm summer sun wash over me, I acknowledge the obvious: I’m very lucky to be here.

Viking’s Lyon & Provence journey is one of the cruise line’s most popular – and it’s no wonder. Viking is considered a leader in luxury river cruising, with the largest suites and most alfresco dining on Europe’s rivers.

All 95 of Heimdal’s accommodations are ‘outside’ rooms, and my light and airy 19-square-metre Veranda Stateroom feels far more spacious and comfortable than I’d anticipated.

As for the communal spaces, in addition to the breezy Aquavit Terrace there is a small, stylish library stocked with a curated selection of books, many of which focus on the culture, food and history of France – a nice touch; the lounge and

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restaurant; and a ship-length sun deck up top, creating more than enough space for the longship’s 180 passengers to spread out and make Heimdal a comfortable home for the cruise.

Like the others in Viking’s longship fleet, Heimdal is a well-executed expression of understated luxury. Its sleek and modern Scandinavian design is timeless and easy on the eyes, and while the ship is contemporary, this never comes at the expense of warmth or comfort.

The interior is light and airy with soft wooden accents and a neutral-hued decor, while floor-to-ceiling windows in the lounge and restaurant ensure the all-encompassing views passing by as we sail down the Rhône always remain the star of the show.

During our week-long sojourn, I find that the picturesque streets of Lyon’s Old Town and the foodie nirvana that awaits in its many restaurants are just the beginning as we cruise our way languidly through the regions of the Rhône, the Ardèche and Provence.

It is the busiest time of year in the south of France, and also the hottest, but this doesn’t stop anyone on board >>

Above: A Veranda Suite and library on board Viking Heimdal.

Below: Viking’s longships feature the most alfresco dining on Europe’s major rivers.

This page: Provence is at its picture-perfect best in the peak of summer right before harvest.

Below: Vieux Lyon.

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leaving the air-conditioned comfort of the longship each day, hats on heads and skin glistening with sunscreen, to explore the idyllic countryside and fairytale-like towns Heimdal transports us to.

And the beauty of this cruise is that there is genuinely enough time to do so, thanks to a relaxed itinerary that offers more hours in each port (and an included tour), and the opportunity to balance reconnaissance missions with relaxation, while truly savouring the wonderful surrounds, on board and on shore.

For those with a larger appetite for exploration – which is many of the guests thanks to Viking’s reputation for attracting a ‘thinking’ rather than ‘drinking’ clientele – the 16 optional shore excursions do the trick.

There are journeys to the lush, grape-laced wine regions of Beaujolais and Burgundy and their fresco-filled châteaux; walking tours through the narrow medieval streets of Perouges, Viviers and the historic Roman city of Arles; and a full-day expedition to discover Provence’s iconic lavender fields. This cruise literally offers something for everyone.

For me, a long-standing Francophile on my fourth trip to France, I’m happily surprised to find there are new destinations to uncover every day. How have I never before heard of Les Baux, I ponder, as I amble up the beautiful hilltop Provençal

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town’s steep cobbled streets, oblivious to the searing heat as a childlike sense of wonder takes hold.

An hour later just down the hill, I’m happily bumping into other Viking passengers in the dark of a former limestone quarry, each of us transfixed by the sensory spectacle of music and light that is the Carrières de Lumières. iPhone camera in hand, I’m oblivious to what I’m filming as I look every which way, marvelling at the light projections of Picasso’s art one minute, and a psychedelic display of Flower Power pop culture the next, its rainbow-coloured shapes dancing on the vast white rock all around me.

We are in awe of the spectacle, but not altogether surprised by it – many passengers have booked this cruise because they know Viking does shore excursions incredibly well.

And the line more than delivers on its promise to uncover authentic local experiences and unexpected treats – such as watching a keen-nosed hound on a truffle farm in Burgundy digging up fat nuggets of ‘black gold’.

Not that any of us are left wanting of a decent meal, thanks to the gastronomic delights Heimdal’s first-rate culinary team

© Photographs courtesy of Viking River Cruises and by Madelin Tomelty

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Right: Carrieres des Lumieres light and sound display, presented in an old limestone quarry near Les Bauxde-Provence.

Below: Heimdal's elegant lounge and Aquavit Terrace.

Left: The towns and villages of Provence are some of France’s most picturesque.

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serves up each day. From healthy lunches on the Aquavit Terrace to three-course à la carte dinners in the restaurant, each evening we are spoilt with a new menu that reflects the regional specialties of that day’s location.

There’s boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin in Burgundy and pork and chestnut stew in the Ardèche, where chestnut trees abound, while Heimdal’s arrival in Provence heralds a special Provençal feast featuring plenty of seafood, ratatouille, bouillabaisse and fromage de chèvre (goat’s cheese), as well as a table of French desserts. And, of course, there is never a lack of that crucial ingredient every good French meal requires: a glass or two of local wine.

On my final evening on board, I find myself on the Aquavit Terrace before anyone else and nab one of the four rocking chairs at the very tip of the ship’s clear glass bow.

With the wide panorama of the river in front, and the romantic live strumming of local musicians Les Gitans behind me, I’m floating as the walled city of Avignon appears in the distance.

I start to notice the lights of its ancient buildings flickering on, one by one, as day settles into dusk, before my reverie is interrupted by one of Heimdal’s bar staff.

“Another glass of Veuve Clicquot, madame?” But I refuse.

Not even a glass of French champagne in France could make this moment any more magical than it already is.

The Details Viking River Cruises operates several eight-day cruises between Lyon and Avignon in Provence each year between March and November, with 2019 prices starting from $3395 per person and special air fares to Europe for only $995 per person. It’s advisable to book early because these sailings sell out quickly. For more information and bookings, contact Viking on 138 747, visit vikingrivercruises.com.au or see your cruise specialist agent.

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THE JOYS OF CRUISING

Champagne & Caviar S E A S O N E D V OYAG E R M AG G Y O E H L B E C K EXTOLS THE VIRTUES OF LUXURY CRUISING F R O M M A N H AT TA N T O T H E M E D I T E R R A N E A N

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Cunard’s regal Queen Mary 2 sails out of New York City to start her next trans-Atlantic crossing.

N

ominating a single ship or cruise that fires my enduring love affair with luxury cruising is neither possible, nor polite.

Among the illustrious ships I have sailed on – whether ocean, river and expedition, large or small – I love them all.

How did my abiding passion for luxury cruising begin?

Was it the swish of our butler Igor’s coat-tails and the caviar and champagne which he meticulously delivered to our penthouse suite each evening after our jaw-dropping discoveries of St Petersburg? We were, after all, in the Baltic on the impeccable Crystal Symphony.

Perhaps it was my first trans-Atlantic crossing on Cunard Line’s majestic Queen Mary 2 and lining the rails alongside extravagantly fur-coated passengers in the wee small hours waiting for our first glimpse of the Statue of Liberty and the twinkling lights of Manhattan?

Or was it playing Robinson Crusoe on a tropical island paradise in French Polynesia on Windstar, or at an exclusive beach barbecue ashore on a Paul Gauguin cruise?

According to the Berlitz Guide to Cruising and Cruise Ships bible, luxury cruising “should be a flawless combination of ship, facilities, understated decor, culinary excellence and service.”

I would also add finesse – little touches like a pashmina draped around my shoulders after a helicopter jaunt over four glaciers and exhilarating dog-sled ride on a Silversea Alaska cruise, or a staff member demisting my sunglasses on a SeaDream mega-yacht.

Whatever cruise itinerary you select, the ‘unpack once’ trope is immediately apparent. Most luxury ships have walk-in wardrobes. Or be like a regular Cunard guest on QM2 who takes a duplex suite for her ball gowns. On a six-night trans-Atlantic crossing, there are three formal nights – but those are voyages, not cruises.

On an average seven to 10-day cruise, expect one and possibly two formal nights, but don’t stress over dress codes. While today’s trend is for more casual, it doesn’t mean trackie-dacks and clunky joggers in the dining room.

That vexed term “smart casual” is imperfect, but basically means jacket but no tie. Pity. I love beautiful ties, and men never look better than in a dinner suit – the preferred attire on formal nights.

And where better to wear fabulous frocks and heirloom jewellery than the security of a cruise ship?

The age demographic of cruise passengers is trending lower, and travelling solo is on the up as more cruise lines offer single cabins.

Don’t demur about attending a glamorous event alone. Several cruise lines engage Gentlemen Hosts to act as escorts and dance partners.

Another trend is toward adults-only ships – a high-end example is comparative newcomer to ocean cruising Viking Cruises.

Luxury suite accommodation usually features individual balconies, marble bathrooms with toiletries such as Bulgari and Molton Brown, finest-quality bed linens and a pillow menu, in-suite soft drinks and bottled water, table wines at lunch and dinner, obligatory welcome aboard champagne and all-inclusive gratuities.

Silversea and Viking also include free WiFi. Not included are Chef’s Table dinners with vintage wine pairings, spa treatments, private cabanas on shipboard sanctuaries and most shore excursions.

Exceptions are Regent Seven Seas Cruises' and Ponant’s all-inclusive expeditions on nominated sailings.

These days, much is made of ships’ cuisine and celebrity-chef guest appearances in specialty restaurants. While many luxury cruise ships have numerous dining venues, two-sitting dining service still exists on more traditional larger ships, but dining hours are more flexible.

You don’t have to sit at assigned tables every night, but if travelling solo, it is a good way to meet people. Have a word with the maître ds. They are skillful at matching like-minded fellow travellers. And those seeking to dine a deux are always accommodated, but best to make a prior reservation.

The larger the ship, the larger the show lounge. Expect to see West End or Broadwaystyle productions strutting their stuff at Cunard’s Queens’ Royal Court Theatres.

Small to medium-size ships may feature special guest performers and Crystal’s cultural enrichment programs offer a pool Sof amazing speakers.

Some lines make a feature of being destination-immersive with overnight stays so that guests can attend an unforgettable event such as Windstar’s private white-glove-service dinner among the illuminated ruins of the Celsus Library at Ephesus accompanied by a trio from the Aegean Chamber Orchestra. Other lines may overnight in Cannes for the film festival, or Monaco for the annual Grand Prix.

If you are doing your own thing, you are responsible for being on board at the specified time, so don’t be a forlorn figure standing on the pier as the ship pulls out. I saw it happen once on a Greek island and happily a zodiac was lowered and whisked off to fetch her. If a shipsponsored tour is delayed, it will wait, otherwise it won't.

Meanwhile, river cruising delivers a different port every day, as most vessels moor in the heart of Europe’s great cities or towns. Wander at will or join a guided shore excursion. Tauck offers unique events such as an Imperial Evening in a Viennese Palace, or a private after-hours tour of the Louvre.

Not all river cruising is Eurocentric: explore the Amazon with Delfin, the world’s only Relais & Châteaux river cruise, or churn sedately along the Mississippi on the luxury, all-suite American Duchess.

Expedition cruising is all the rage with privileged access to pristine environments and wildlife sightings experienced in stylish comfort, carefully curated decor, fine food and wines, and engaging lectures.

Ponant delivers on all counts with classy, intimate-scale expedition ships accompanied by highly qualified expedition leaders.

For me, nothing quite equals contemplating the moody blues of sea and sky while enjoying the fine art of afternoon tea on QM2; threading in and out of Greece’s sun-splashed islands, or sailing out of Istanbul at dusk, its skyline etched with silhouettes of mosques and minarets.

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EXPEDITION CRUISING

Whale of a Time K E L LY A L L E N B O A R D S S I L V E R S E A ’ S S I L V E R E X P LO R E R F O R A V OYAG E O F D I S C O V E R Y I N A PRISTINE MARINE ENVIRONMENT

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“F

ifty-five … no wait, 56!” Lunch doesn’t get any more exciting than this. I’m on the aft deck of Silversea’s Silver Explorer, the sun is shining, I’m enjoying a delicious lunch of steak and prawns, and I’ve just counted 56 humpback whales breaching, tails flapping, and generally having a great time.

Even more impressive, our group has spotted more than 600 marine animals over the past nine days – including whales, porpoises, dolphins and seals – on our memorable expedition voyage from Vancouver to San Francisco.

We are joined on this cruise by two marine experts, Anna and Lucy, from ORCA, one of the United Kingdom’s

leading marine conservation charities. ORCA is working in partnership with Silversea to highlight and educate passengers on the amazing life that exists in oceans around the world.

Our tireless spotters have been out on the deck from sunrise to sunset while at sea each day, carefully monitoring and keeping a tally, and then sharing their findings and knowledge with us through fascinating lectures.

This is the joy of an expedition cruise. No fancy ball gowns or dinner jackets, and no lounging around the pool. The dress code is comfortable all-weather gear by day and smart casual in the evening. >>

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EXPEDITION CRUISING

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Above and right: Silver Explorer’s two restaurants offer sophisticated dishes like Black Angus beef tartar and grilled lobster tail; the Expedition Preparation Room.

Below and opposite: Bald eagle on Lopez Island; sea lions relaxing at Pier 39 in San Francisco.

Voted Best Ocean Cruise Line in Luxury Travel Magazine’s Gold List 2018, Silversea is renowned for its high-end luxury cruising, but after talking to many Silversea regulars on this sailing, I’ve discovered they much prefer the more casual and intimate ambience of an expedition cruise – more adventure, less formality and a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

While the experience is the main draw of an expedition cruise, Silver Explorer has not forgotten how to spoil its guests with restaurant-quality dining, comfortable accommodations, and polished silver service.

Fresh from a refurbishment in 2017, Silver Explorer is an all-suite affair with room for just 144 fortunate guests and 118 welcoming, intuitive and efficient crew.

Although there are only two dining venues (plus complimentary room service), the culinary choices are sophisticated and delicious; aged Black Angus beef tartar, double clarified oxtail consommé,

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grilled lobster tail, and fresh strawberry mille-feuille for dessert.

There is a wonderful selection of all-inclusive wines as well as chilled sundowner cocktails.

Silversea also includes its onshore excursions, which are often available twice a day when cruising short distances, and the first few days of our voyage are spent in the Puget Sound, hopping between the islands of the San Juan archipelago in Washington State.

We have some extraordinary sightings of bald eagles on Lopez Island and enjoy hiking through evergreen forests with local park rangers as our guides.

Friday Harbor on San Juan Island is a charming, historic and walkable fishing village with friendly locals, quirky bookshops and quaint ‘mom and pop’ cafes – and not a fast-food chain in sight.

In Anacortes on Fidalgo Island, we opt for the three-hour kayak tour of beautiful Burrows Bay, where we observe bald eagles swooping down to snatch unsuspecting fish, curious porpoises alongside our craft, harbour seals, and even a coyote hunting by the shoreline.

Our guides, Dan and James, are passionate nature-lovers and happy to share their expertise, along with making sure we are comfortable and safe during the trip.

One of the highlights is our day spent hiking in iconic Mount Rainier National Park. Although it is a little over two hours’ drive from Olympia, where the ship is docked, >>

Even more impressive, our group has spotted more than 600 marine animals over the past nine days – including whales, porpoises, dolphins and seals – on our unforgettable expedition voyage from Vancouver to San Francisco.

EXPEDITION CRUISING

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EXPEDITION CRUISING

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C O V E R S T O R Y / LT

Opposite: Child dressed for an Indian ceremony.

Above: Scenic Sol Duc Falls.

Left and below: The picture window and view at Mount St Helens National Monument.

Below: Driving

by Giant Sequoia in the Redwood National Park.

EXPEDITION CRUISING

we travel in comfortable coaches equipped with video screens that keep us entertained. We hike through old growth forest on our way to the Paradise viewing area where we are blessed with a stunning panorama – even if it doesn’t last long – of the snowcapped summit.

Our last stop in Washington is Port Angeles where we enjoy the breathtaking scenery at Lake Crescent before a visit to Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort. After a 1.6 kilometre hike through dense forests to Sol Duc Falls, we heads back to the resort for a relaxing soak in hot-spring pools ranging from 37 to 40 degrees celsius.

Crossing into the state of Oregon, a region renowned for its craft beers, we stop in Astoria at the mouth of the Columbia River. After sightseeing at picturesque Cannon Beach, we end the day with a beer tasting at the Astoria Brewing Company.

The day we explore Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument happens to be the 38th anniversary of its last eruption, the most deadly and destructive volcanic eruption in US history.

We learn how volcanos are monitored, watch rare footage of the actual explosion, and listen to fascinating stories from a park ranger who is working there that day. It's a powerful reminder of nature’s strength.

For me, the best is saved for last: Eureka, California, home to iconic Redwood National Park. Welcoming townspeople greets us at the dock with live music, craft beer, cider, deep fried oysters, and handmade chocolate before we head out to see the giant redwoods.

I must admit to feeling a twinge of emotion as we approach these primordial trees, some standing more than 100 metres tall and up to 2,000 years old. Unfortunately, due to extensive logging, 95 per cent of the old-growth redwoods have been cut down and now are mostly found only in protected parks.

Wandering around the Old Town of Eureka, with its Victorian-era heritage, we explore antique shops, pubs, cafés and California’s oldest zoo.

On our last morning, as we sail under the fog-shrouded Golden Gate Bridge, sipping coffee delivered on a silver tray by our butler, Aditya, I reflect on our nine-day journey.

From whales to volcanos to giant redwoods, we witness some of the Pacific Rim’s most incredible scenery. And thanks to the talented crew – including marine biologists, geologists, anthropologists and archeologists – I learn so much and reignite a flame of desire to explore more of the world’s last great wilderness preserves.

The Details Conservationists from ORCA will travel on board Silversea’s new Silver Muse from Tokyo to Seward, departing May 12, 2019, and from Seward to Vancouver, departing May 27, 2019.

For more information and fares on all Silversea cruises, contact 1300 306 872, visit silversea.com or see your cruise specialist travel agent.

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Cruising in Style

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TA K E A B O W – A S H I P ’ S B O W – I N T H E S E C O O L , B R E E Z Y C LO T H E S A N D AC C E S S O R I E S T H AT A R E P E R F E C T F O R YO U R N E X T L U X U R Y C R U I S E H O L I DAY

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1 . ARGYLE R O C PO O L TOTE BAG

3 . A NCH O R CO RD WRA P BRACE LE T

5 . TOD’ S D OU B L E T G OM M I N O

7. L E AT HE R -TR IMME D D U F F L E B AG

Orlebar Brown

Miansai

To d ’ s

Filson

$2 2 5 , o rlebar br own.c o m

$2 0 6 , m rp ort e r.c om

$ 7 5 5 , to ds .c o m

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2 . F I N E PANAMA RAFI A

4. DIVER CHRONOGRAPH

6 . R OU N D - F R A M E SU N G L ASSE S 8 . J OU R N E Y MAN C O LO G N E

Borsalino

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5. PYRACLOU SPECCHIO SHOES

Gucci

Love Binetti

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$3,140, gucci.com

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2 . L I V O C E A N WAT C H

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6. SEA FOAM PERFUME

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Obaku

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Art de Parfum

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$279, obaku.com

$6 0 7, f a rf e t c h.c o m .au

$ 2 0 0, ar tdepar f u m .c o m

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The Shipping News

Crystal Yacht Expedition Cruises has unveiled itineraries for the inaugural season of its newest globe-trotting ship, Crystal Endeavor. The exciting schedule offers sailings of 12 to 22 days from August 2020 to January 2021 to Japan, the Russian Far East, New Zealand, Australia and the Antarctic. Guests on the maiden voyage will receive a complimentary one-night pre-cruise luxury hotel stay and an invitation to the yacht’s naming event. crystalcruises.com Seabourn Ovation, the newest ship in the ultra-luxury Seabourn fleet, has set sail on her inaugural cruise season in Europe, following a festive naming ceremony in Malta. The cruise line has also announced its 2020 World Cruise program, and will launch two new luxe expedition ships in 2021 and 2022. seabourn.com It’s an exciting time for Silversea with two new ships on the horizon, Silver Moon and Silver Dawn, and news that Silver Muse will spend four months in Australia and New Zealand in 2019 and 2020, making this Silversea’s longest season in our region to date. Choose from mostly 14-day voyages departing from Sydney and Auckland. silversea.com Regent Seven Seas Cruises will add the ultra-luxe Seven Seas Splendor to its fleet in February 2020, a sister ship to Seven Seas Explorer, which launched in 2016. Splendor’s inaugural summer season in Europe will feature 15 spectacular destinations from Croatia to Slovenia, France, Spain, the British and Greek Isles, and the Italian and French Rivieras. rssc.com Delivery of the much-anticipated Scenic Eclipse, billed as “the world’s first luxury discovery yacht”, is set for January 2019, following a five-month delay. The state-of-the-art vessel accommodates only 228 guests (200 in polar regions) and offers voyages in Europe and the Americas, the Baltics, Antarctica and far-north waters. scenic.com.au Luxury expedition cruise line Ponant has announced a longterm partnership with National Geographic Expeditions to develop a small-ship expedition program in Australia, New Zealand and Asia Pacific. National Geographic experts and photographers will be on board each of 130 unique itineraries planned for the next four years. au.ponant.com Our supermodel covergirl, MS EUROPA 2, will sail around the world on 35 cruises between 2018 and 2020. Owned

by Hapag-Lloyd Cruises, this luxury liner will visit Japan for the

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first time, and also sail in Oceania, the Mediterranean, western and northern Europe, the Canary Islands, South America and the Caribbean. The ship’s new fashion2sea, art2sea and in2balance programs will bring style, art and wellness to each sailing. hl-cruises.com SeaDream Yacht Club’s SeaDream I and SeaDream 2 offer private motor yacht-style sailings to some of the world’s most beautiful ports. With room for only 112 guests and 95 attentive crew, the intimate and luxurious sister ships sail in the Mediterranean from May to October, and the Caribbean and Cuba from November to April each year. seadream.com Paul Gauguin Cruises has released its 2019 Voyages brochure, featuring alluring itineraries in Tahiti, French Polynesia, Fiji and other islands in the South Pacific on board the MS Paul Gauguin. The cruise line has also partnered with the Wildlife Conservation Society to offer a new ‘Stewards of Nature’ family program on seven-night Tahiti and Society Islands cruises departing this December 22 and 29. wiltrans.com.au Cunard has announced its regal Queen Elizabeth will be based in Australia for an unprecedented 101 days during its December 2019 to March 2020 summer cruise season. The liner will sail on six round-trip sailings from Melbourne and two from Sydney visiting South Australia, Tasmania, New Zealand and Papua New Guinea. cunard.com Azamara Quest arrives in Australia on December 15 and will sail the west coast before arriving in Fremantle on December 22. Her 15-night Christmas and New Year voyage to Melbourne will include a three-night stay in Sydney Harbour for New Year’s Eve. azamara.cruiselines.com Following an inaugural season island-hopping in the Caribbean, Holland America Line’s Nieuw Statendam will cross the Atlantic in late April 2019 and spend the summer and autumn exploring Norway, the Baltic, Iceland and the Mediterranean. hollandamerica.com Celebrating 15 years as a leading culinary-focused cruise line, Oceania Cruises has launched new dining options in the Grand Dining Room of all six ships in its fleet, and Australians will be able to savour the changes when Regatta and Insignia visit our shores this December and next February respectively. oceaniacruises.com

r e v o c s i D

y r u x u

L r u o y

It’s personal for us - every client, every detail, every time.

Find your MTA Luxury Travel Expert mtatravel.com.au | 1300 682 000 Our luxury affiliations:

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And Now for Something Completely Different … Discover French Polynesia by Cargo Ship A luxury cruise ship isn’t the only way to explore exotic island destinations in the South Pacific. Tahitian adventure cruise line Aranui Cruises offers fascinating journeys from Papeete to the Marquesas, Society and Tuamotu islands on board its comfortable cargo and passenger vessel Aranui 5.

The long-established freight company dispatches the vessel on regular 13-day round-trip itineraries to nine Tahitian islands, including the idyllic Tuamotu atolls of Rangiroa and Fakarava and the Marquesas islands as well as Bora Bora with its world-famous lagoon.

While the ship delivers its cargo, passengers can disembark and explore the islands on complimentary shore excursions including guided

hikes, four-wheel-drive tours, picnics, and visits to local villages.

New for 2019 is a special 13-day cruise from Papeete to remote Pitcairn Island, while the final cruise of the year takes in the colourful Marquesas Festival.

Aranui 5 follows in the footsteps of Robert Louis Stevenson, Herman Melville and Paul Gauguin, but in much greater comfort, with an onboard restaurant, lounges, a library, boutique, pool, fitness room, spa and four bars. Onboard meals include complimentary French wine and a free laundry service is offered to all guests. For more information, fares and bookings, visit aranuicruises.com.au.

An Exclusive Luxury Travel Cruise Partnership

Choosing the Right Ship and Cruise Specialist

Luxury Travel Magazine has partnered with Cruiseco, the largest and broadest distributor of cruise product in the Southern Hemisphere, to deliver our readers an array of exciting luxury cruising options.

With a membership base spanning Australia and New Zealand, Cruiseco provides member agencies access to more than 50 cruise brands worldwide, while creating exclusive products to help members drive their businesses.

Cruiseco is at the forefront of luxury cruising with CEO Amanda McClelland and the team able to provide expert perspectives and industry knowledge on all things cruise.

“The best thing about luxury cruising with Cruiseco is that you have the total freedom of choice to create a curated package with a vast array of destinations and experiences,” says McClelland.

See next pages for exclusive offers and to find your closest Cruiseco member agency, call 1800 550 320 or visit cruising.com.au.

Your choice of ship – ocean, river or expedition, large and small – is the most important element when deciding on a luxury cruise holiday, so planning carefully will ensure a smooth voyage.

It’s also absolutely vital to research and book through a cruise specialist travel agent – people who have expert knowledge of the luxury cruise industry and can dramatically elevate your holiday experience.

It’s important to have in mind what size of ship and the type and style of onboard facilities you prefer, and the key destinations you want to visit.

Luxury cruise brochures are a goldmine of information, detailing ports, sailing times, the ships’ layouts, prices, air travel and land add-on options, as well as highlighting the special terms and conditions that apply to cruise holidays.

The deck-by-deck layouts will give you a good overview of the size of the ship and its suites, staterooms and verandah0s, as well as the social spaces, dining venues, sports, leisure, spa and entertainment facilities.

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The Southern Drift Discover New Zealand on this Inspiring Journey through the bountiful naturalDrift treasures of the South Island. From the still waters of The Southern Milford Sound and snowcapped peaks of the Southern Alps, to rolling hills and grassy plains of Central Otago, delve into the exquisite beauty of a land that has remained unchanged for millennia.

Discover New Zealand on this Inspiring Journey through the bountiful natural treasures of the South Island. From the still waters of Milford Sound and snowcapped peaks of the Southern Alps, to rolling hills and grassy plains of Central Otago, delve into the exquisite Discover Explore beauty of a land that has remained unchanged for millennia.

The magnificent icy landscape of Franz Josef Glacier

Journey over fields and rivers on the TranzAlpine Train

The peakicy oflandscape Mount Cook, Thestunning magnificent of rising Franz aboveJosef the Southern Glacier Alps

Vibrant Queenstown, nestled Journey over fields and rivers at onthe the footTranzAlpine of the Remarkables Train

Central Otago’s undulating The stunning peak of Mount fields Cook, rising above the Southern Alps

Kayak across the nestled waters of Vibrant Queenstown, at the magical Milford Sound foot of the Remarkables

Central Otago’s undulating fields Immerse Enjoy a traditional Jade factory demonstration

Kayak across the waters of Relax magical Milford Sound Stay in a luxury eco-lodge in Fiordland National Park

Learn Enjoy the ancient sport ofJade curling in Naseby a traditional factory demonstration Uncover Arrowtown’s gold mining heritage Learn the ancient sport of curling in Naseby

UnwindStay in Franz Josef’seco-lodge geothermal in a luxury in pools Fiordland National Park Cruise out to the Tasman Sea on Milford Sound Unwind in Franz Josef’s geothermal pools

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Book now and save 10% on this 12 Day Inspiring Journey now from $5936* per person twin share Quintessential reasons to choose Inspiring Journeys Quintessential reasons to choose Inspiring Journeys

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For more information or to book call 1300 669 175 or visit inspiringjourneys.com/nzsi *When you book and pay in full by 31 January 2019. Terms and conditions apply. For full details visit inspiringjourneys.com/booking-conditions

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DUBROVNIK

• • FLORENCE/PISA/

••

• ROME

(CIVITAVECCHIA)

• OLBIA/PORTO

MYKONOS

•KOTOR

CORFU

•

ATHENS (PIRAEUS)

CERVO (SARDINIA)

• GYTHION

•

ISTANBUL

•

•MYTILINI (LESBOS)

•EPHESUS (KUSADASI) • •SANTORINI

PISA, PROVENCE & PALMA

TURKISH TREASURES, GRECIAN GREATS

ROME TO BARCELONA

ATHENS (PIRAEUS) TO VENICE

CRUISE DEPARTS 10 MAY 2019

CRUISE DEPARTS 3 JUNE 2019

10 night cruise aboard Seven Seas Explorer

12 night cruise aboard Seven Seas Voyager

FARES FROM $7,992* PER PERSON

FARES FROM $9,292* PER PERSON

IT’S ALL INCLUDED FREE Unlimited Shore Excursions^ FREE Specialty Restaurants FREE WiFi Throughout the Ship# FREE Unlimited Beverages Including Fine Wines and Premium Spirits

FREE Open Bars and Lounges PLUS In-Suite Mini-bar Replenished Daily FREE Pre-Paid Gratuities FREE 24-Hour Room Service~

*Prices are per person, in AUD based on lowest available twin-share accommodation (Suites G2 and G) including port charges, government taxes, surcharges, fees and onboard gratuities, correct as at 13 August 2018. Offer is valid for a limited time only, is capacity controlled, and is subject to change/availability. Prices may not include Personal Charges, Optional Facilities and Services Fees as defined in the Terms and Conditions of the Guest Ticket Contract. ~Exclusive Cruiseco Bonus onboard credit offer is valid until 30 September 2018, amount listed is in USD, per suite, applies to the first two guests sharing a cabin, is non-transferrable, cannot be redeemed for cash or be used at the medical centre. †10% reduced deposits are valid until 31 October 2018. ^FREE Shore Excursion reservations are accepted on a first-come, first-served basis and numbers of shore excursions are subject to availability. Restrictions apply and cancellations received 36 hours prior to shore excursion start date may incur penalties. #With FREE Unlimited WiFi includes one log-in, one device, per suite. Concierge Suites and higher receive up to four logins, four devices, per suite. Regent Seven Seas Cruises reserves the right to correct errors or omissions and to change any and all fares or promotional offers at any time. To be read in conjunction with the Complete terms and conditions available in the Guest Ticket Contract at www.RSSC.com. Ships’ Registry: Bahamas ©2018 Regent Seven Seas Cruises®. Cancellation penalties and conditions apply. Agents may charge service fees and or fees for card payments which vary.

ON 1800 550 320 OR VISIT CRUISING.COM.AU

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BEY OND BORA BORA D I LV I N YA S A S I D E S T E P S TA H I T I ’ S M O S T FA M O U S AND POPULAR ICON FOR T H E Q U I E T E R Y E T E Q U A L LY BEAUTIFUL ISLANDS OF M O ’ O R E A A N D T A H A ’A

IT’S NOT OFTEN ONE’S WAITER HAS TO PADDLE HIS way through a shoal of inquisitive reef sharks and manta rays to deliver breakfast, but this is my current situation.

Standing on the deck of my overwater bungalow – rainbow pops of fish lazily gliding just beneath my toes – I watch on as this handsome Adonis expertly ‘parks’ his canoe at the steps and presents my morning meal of poisson cru, tropical fruit salad, coffee and a plateful of baked goodies.

“Welcome to Mo’orea!” he grins and motions at the scenery behind him with the flourish of a game show host.

“Now just relax and let us take care of you.” Relax? Ha! I’m already way ahead of him.

You might have heard murmurs about this heart-shaped tropical island located just 17 kilometres from Tahiti: talk of the natural beauty Mo’orea shares with its famous Society Islands archipelago neighbour Bora Bora – all lush, jagged peaks rising out of a reef-fringed lagoon.

Perhaps it’s a whisper or two about its pretty white-sand motu and luxurious aqua-centric resorts and overwater bungalows with steps leading into the aquamarine waters.

Yet here’s something you may not know: despite the host of blessings Mother Nature has bestowed on Mo’orea (eight soaring mountain peaks, poetic threads of waterfalls and a whale-rich waterway, for starters), the island remains the Neil Connery to Sean, or the Daniel Baldwin to Alec.

It has the same brooding movie star looks and talent to enthral, but remains eclipsed by the dazzle of celebrity. It’s a fact that will play to your advantage. >> Overwater bungalows at the Hilton Mo’orea Lagoon Resort & Spa.

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Above: Hilton Mo’orea Lagoon Resort & Spa is perfectly positioned between two bays and flanked by lush mountains.

Opposite and below: Tropical breakfast spreads arrive by canoe at the idyllic Hilton Mo’orea.

The jewel in Mo’orea’s crown is arguably Hilton Mo’orea Lagoon Resort & Spa, a sprawling property nestled between two bays which offers both garden bungalows with private terraces and plunge pools, as well as overwater bungalows with glass floors and claw-footed tubs.

“Yeess!” my husband shouts as we launch ourselves into the resort’s opalescent coral-filled lagoon, and “Nooo!” I scream as I run back to my towel, realising I’m the only one swimming/kayaking/paddling without a Go-Pro and 450,000 Instagram followers.

Instead I find my happy place under the healing touch of a masseuse at Mo’orea Lagoon Spa, not to mention behind the counter of the resort’s chic in-house Robert Wan Boutique.

Leaving the resort takes willpower, but outside, a necklace of pretty pastel-coloured villages strung around the island’s 60-kilometre coastal road beckons.

Whale-watching tours, private jeep safaris and half a dozen hikes of varying difficulty sit high on the list of Mo’orea must-dos, but after a couple of days, I’d easily put the signature lobster ravioli at Le Mayflower restaurant, and an action-packed, atmospheric lagoon tour with Captain Taina right at the top.

Of course, for those keen to drop out of society altogether, there’s no better option than catching a plane to the island of Raiatea, the nautical centre of Tahiti, before taking a boat transfer to the flower-shaped island of Taha’a – wild and carefree, even by French Polynesia’s standards.

A hit with the sailing set thanks to its enclosed lagoon with wide channels, calm waters and steady winds, ‘The Vanilla Island’ (named after the countless vanilla plantations dotting its landscape) is tranquil, traditional

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French Polynesia, offering escape from a modern world but with top-notch snorkelling and dive spots, as well as some of the most luxurious island resorts on the planet.

Most travellers here stick to water activities, anchoring a catamaran just off the coastline and either driftsnorkelling in the shallow coral gardens between Motu Maharare and Motu Tautau, or diving the sites of Nordby (a shipwreck) and Octopus Hole, where sharks and sea turtles can be found in large numbers.

We take a private jeep safari tour with Vanilla Tours instead; an experience that traverses ascending slopes and deep valleys in comfort as it takes in some of the island’s pearl farms, vanilla plantations and a rum distillery.

I’m told the hiking trails in these parts are particularly good, but I’m just going to have to take their word for it. >>

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“Sitting here on the deck of our bungalow and watching the sunset over Bora Bora’s Mt Otemanu in the distance, it seems silly to consider any other option rather than being right here, right now, in paradise.”

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The Details Air Tahiti Nui offers three weekly services from Auckland to Papeete, connecting with Qantas codeshares from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. Air Tahiti operates daily flights between Papeete and Mo’orea and Raiatea, however the Aremiti Ferry, a one-hour journey between Papeete and Mo’orea is also available. For further information, visit airtahitinui.com.au, airtahiti.com and aremiti.net.

Rooms at Hilton Mo’orea Lagoon Resort & Spa start from $665 per night. For more information and bookings, visit hilton.com.

Vahine Island Resort & Spa can be reached by private transfer from Raiatea airport, a 40-minute scenic journey. Room rates start from $692 per night. Visit vahine-island.com.

As sun sets, it’s a quick transfer over to Vahine Island Resort & Spa, a private island property where exclusivity is key. Home to only six beachfront and three overwater bungalows, a restaurant, bar and spa, the experience is decidedly ‘Robinson Crusoe in luxury’ yet with highend dining to draw in the gourmands, and endless coral gardens and water sports to entice more active guests.

We eat, we drink, relax with massages and hit the repeat button. Sure, we could chopper in to Bora Bora for the day, or take a private sailing tour as the resort’s activities brochure recommends.

But sitting here on the deck of our bungalow and watching the sunset over Bora Bora’s Mt. Otemanu in the distance, it seems silly to consider any other option rather than being right here, right now, in paradise.

Vahine Island Resort’s Beach Suites boast roomy terraces, complete with hammocks.

For further information on the islands of French Polynesia, visit tahititourisme.com.au.

Passing Through Papeete Late night arrival times mean overnight stays in Papeete on both inbound and outbound flights are mandatory and should be factored into your travel plans. The InterContinental Tahiti Resort & Spa, and Le Meridien Tahiti are good accommodation choices. For bookings, visit ihg.com and lemeridientahiti.com.

Don’t miss visiting the black sand beach of Papera, strolling through vibrant Marché de Papeete markets, shopping for pearls at any number of boutiques that dominate the city centre, and dining at Le Lotus, a romantic overwater dining room at the InterContinental Tahiti Resort & Spa. For more details, visit tahititourisme.com.au.

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FOU R - D AY M A RGAR E T R IV E R CAP E T O C AP E

WA LK BY WA L K IN T O L UX URY (A GR E AT WAL K O F A U ST R A LI A) IS A F UL LY GUIDE D S M AL L -

GRO U P WA L K FR O M P E RT H, CO M B IN IN G TH E

BES T SE C T I O NS O F T HE CAP E T O CAP E TRACK WIT H O NC E - I N - A- L IF E T IM E F O O D AN D W IN E

EXP ERI E N C E S A N D ULT R A- L UX E ACCO M M OD ATION IN PR I VAT E PO O L V IL L AS O V E R L O O K IN G TH E IND I A N O C E A N . PACK E D W IT H HIGHL IGH TS,

THI S PR E M I E R WAL K F E AT UR E S L UN CH W ITH MAT C H E D WI N E S AT AN AWAR D- W IN N I N G

WIN E RY, A PR I VAT E CHE F DIN N E R S HO W CASIN G REG I O N A L PR O DUCE W IT H L O CAL W IN ES TO

TAST E , WE L C O M E DR IN K S AN D A S P E CIAL P RIVATE D ID G E R I D O O PE RF O R M AN CE W IT H O N E OF TH E R E G I O N ’ S T R ADIT IO N AL O W N E R S .

Prize Inclusions Return transfers from Perth to Margaret River; Three nights in an oceanfront pool villa at an exclusive cliff-top retreat; Four days’ guided walking on the Cape to Cape Track carrying only a daypack (averaging six to 14km per day); All food and wine, including select local wines and craft beer in your villa; Four-course lunch with matched wines at Wills Domain winery; Evening of food and wine at an acclaimed local venue; Private-chef prepared dinner showcasing local produce with local wines to taste; Day-pack supplied (if required) and stainless-steel water bottle to keep; TO ENTER VISIT

luxurytravelmag.com.au/walkintoluxury And tell us in 25 words or less why you would like to go on a luxury walk LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CAPE TO CAPE WALK AT capetocapewalk.com.au or email info@walkintoluxury.com.au TERMS A N D C O N D I T I O N S

Prize includes a four-day Margaret River Cape to Cape Walk experience with Walk into Luxury for two guests. Includes return Perth to Margaret River group transfers. Transfers to and from Western Australia not included. Valid for any available departure between 9 September 2018 and 30 June 2019. The prize is not transferrable or redeemable for cash.

WIN A luxury walk in Western Australia VALUED AT $5380

V I C T O R I A / LT

Lady Lake of the

K E L LY A L L E N V I S I T S I D Y L L I C L A K E H O U S E DAY L E S F O R D, O U R G O L D L I S T 2 0 1 8 R E G I O N A L FOOD AND WINE HOTEL OF THE YEAR

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FROM MELBOURNE AIRPORT, LAKE HOUSE DAYLESFORD Hotel, Restaurant & Spa is an 80-minute drive via the M8, but not being in a rush, I decide to take the scenic route. I meander through charming country towns, many home only to a post office, general store and pub.

I pass rolling farmlands and old stone walls, horse stud farms and several roadside produce stands with honour boxes. I get caught up in the novelty of it all and buy a fivekilogram bag of potatoes – a bit silly considering I only have a seven-kilo carry-on allowance on the flight home to Sydney.

Such is life on a visit to Lake House Daylesford, awarded Best Australian Hotel in a Food & Wine Region in Luxury Travel Magazine’s Gold List 2018. The Lake House is an oasis of peace and tranquility where time appears to stand still, save for the occasional wandering goose and a couple of locals walking their dogs.

The welcoming smell of wood-smoke is in the air and dry leaves crunch underfoot as I drive up to this iconic destination hotel.

My guest cottage overlooks the hotel’s eponymous lake, a spacious retreat with two bedrooms, a kitchen, living room with vaulted ceiling, a deep cushioned linen sofa and soft leather chair next to a log fireplace.

There are two chic bathrooms with Elemis toiletries, heated marble floors and a chandelier hanging over a deep free-standing tub. French doors off one bedroom lead to a European-inspired courtyard complete with lavender, climbing vines, a water feature and fire pit.

The other bedroom has its own fireplace, a four-poster bed and fur rug. Beyond the glass doors and onto a private courtyard are a day bed and sunken spa. Four touring bikes

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Above left: The restaurant’s outdoor terrace is the perfect spot for a drink before dinner.

Above right: The hotel’s 33 suites and rooms feature warm and elegant design.

Opposite page: Lake House’s award-winning restaurant dishes up hand-picked, local produce.

lean against the fence, should I feel the need to go exploring (zero chance of that right now).

Now in its fourth decade, Lake House has become a multiaward-winning hotel of international renown, quite a feat for a boutique property in a small Victorian country town.

But thanks to the ever-enterprising and hard-working WolfTasker family and staff, Lake House is continually evolving.

On my recent visit, a new infinity pool overlooking the lake was being built and renovations on the waterfront studios were nearly complete.

Lake House’s culinary force is matriarch and executive chef, Alla Wolf-Tasker AM, who never seems to slow down.

Her passion for local artisan farmers and love of the community is infectious – she is truly a champion for the region. But this is a family affair with husband, Allan, a talented artist whose work delivers splashes of colour across the hotel’s walls.

He has a studio nestled onsite amid the fern groves and is generous about letting guests in for a peek at his latest creation. Daughter Larissa, who was only three when the Lake House dream began, has added her talented touch to the interior design of the 33 rooms and suites scattered across the 2.5-hectare property.

Daylesford and its neighbouring sister town of Hepburn Springs are known for natural mineral springs and spas, so it’s no surprise that Lake House has a dazzling spa of its own.

Salus Spa features private treetop cabins with natural mineral spring spas, along with several unique treatments using products by Elemis.

Therapist Tiffany delivers a 90-minute Salus Signature Bliss treatment combining a volcanic rock and warm oil >>

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The cosy lounge room in the hotel’s Waterfront Suite.

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massage followed by a lime-ginger salt body scrub before I’m wrapped in a cocoon, while I have my face and scalp massaged. The treatment concludes with 15 minutes in the Hydrostorm steam and water jet shower to rinse the salts off. Bliss is the word.

There are many things to like about Lake House, but the highlight has to be its acclaimed restaurant, awarded two Chef’s Hats by the Good Food Guide. It might be cold outside, but the dining room is warm and cosy with an open fire in the centre of the room. Large windows on two sides look out to the lake and the walls feature paintings of local landscapes by Allan.

The service is warm and polished but doesn’t feel formal.

Son-in-law Rob Wilson is Beverage Director and recommends the eight-course Tasting Menu, which changes depending on what is available locally and in season.

It starts with a sliver of kangaroo sandwiched between flaxseed crackers and just keeps getting better. The freshly foraged forest mushrooms with a truffled mushroom bun are arguably the best thing I’ve ever tasted.

Next is Milking Yard Farm chicken with local shaved truffle followed by charcoal-grilled Sher Wagyu with tempura shiitake. I finish with Chocolate in Winter, a delicious roasted apple with chocolate and sorghum.

The wine menu is more than 40 pages long, while the award-winning cellar is home to 13,000 bottles and is available for private dinners and tastings.

The next morning, a private yoga session in my cottage in front of the open fire kick-starts my day. Instructor Adrian brings all the equipment and takes me through 75 minutes of twists and stretches before breakfast.

While the food is an undoubted highlight, there are many activities in the area. A walk around the lake is a must, and you should at least try the mineral water fresh from the pump, footsteps from Lake House. The health benefits are renowned, even if it’s an acquired taste.

Walking to town takes only a few minutes and there are plenty of art galleries, cafes and bakeries, quirky bookshops and enticing boutiques with handcrafted jewellery, decadent candles and French linens.

A stroll to the Wombat Hill Botanic Gardens doesn’t take long, and you can treat yourself to a hot apple cider at the cafe (also run by Lake House) in front of the fire when you get there.

Just try to avoid buying too much fresh produce from the many roadside stands you will pass, or like me you will be handing out potatoes to people you meet on the way to the airport.

The Details Lake House Daylesford Hotel, Restaurant & Spa is an 80-minute drive from Melbourne. Rates start from $658 per night. For information and bookings, visit lakehouse.com.au

Embark on a voyage like no other Visit some of the most remote islands in the world, the Marquesas and Tuamotus, on board the passenger freighter, Aranui 5.

Nine islands across three Tahitian archipelagos

2019 CRUISES NOW ON SALE

10% OFF

VOYAGES 2,3,4

Highlights: 13 day cruise with all meals including onshore picnics and local feasts

Take part in traditional celebrations, ceremonies and dance performances

Small group cruise (max 254 passengers)

Enjoy guided excursions to historic and cultural sites, ancient tikis, hiking, handicraft workshops and churches

Take a peek into the lives of local villages as the crew delivers essential goods during the 3,800 km journey from Papeete

Relax and enjoy our 4-star vessel, complete with bar and pool

P 1300 485 846 www.aranuicruises.com.au

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Journeys to Inspire

L E A D I N G T O U R O P E R AT O R I N S P I R I N G J O U R N E Y S O F F E R S T H E B E S T O F AU S T R A L I A A N D N E W Z E A L A N D I N I T S N E W T R AV E L B R O C H U R E INSPIRATION IS OFTEN FOUND CLOSE TO HOME, AND ON THIS vast island continent of ours, you don’t have to look very far to find a spectacular landscape to fire the imagination.

Inspiring Journeys knows this better than most, designing luxury, small-group voyages around Australia and across the Tasman, from the time-worn Red Centre to New Zealand’s remote mountain fjords.

The award-winning tour operator recently released its 2018/2019 Australia and New Zealand brochure, showcasing an array of authentic and fascinating travel experiences.

New this month is the ‘Ultimate Territory Adventure’ – think Crocodile Dundee but with all the five-star trimmings. Imagine Kakadu wetlands with crocodiles, dramatic waterfalls, boutique accommodations, sunrise over Uluru, and evocative art of the oldest civilisation on Earth.

There’s also a new journey out west taking in Margaret River’s wine and surf, the old-fashioned charm of Rottnest Island, laid back Fremantle and go-ahead Perth.

Tasmania too joins the line-up, featuring the island’s singular beauty (from Bay of Fires to Bruny Island), Hobart’s world-class dining, an Aboriginal guided walk and cultural insight around the magnificent

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natural landscape of the Iarapuna/Bay of Fires, and the maverick brilliance of the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA).

The Inspiring Journeys team draws on decades of experience to create exciting itineraries that combine the comforts of a seamlessly organised tour with the spirit of a freewheeling adventure.

There’ll be time to explore alone and you’ll be on the road with no more than 20 like-minded travellers (and often far fewer).

The wide choice of hotels and lodges provides a real sense of connection with the landscape, whether it’s a safari tent pitched in the Mary River Wetlands or a five-star rainforest retreat just minutes from New Zealand’s stunning Franz Josef Glacier.

Meals also reflect the best of local, from fine dining degustation to pub dinners and gourmet picnics. All you have to do is pack some sensible walking shoes and a sense of adventure.

The Details For a copy of the new Inspiring Journeys 2018/2019 Australia and New Zealand brochure, call 1300 669 175, visit inspiringjourneys.com or contact your travel agent.

EXPERIENCE A NEW GOLDEN AGE OF WAIKĪKĪ AT THE FRESHLY REIMAGINED QUEEN KAPI‘OLANI HOTEL. CHOOSE FROM 315 NEWLY TRANSFORMED GUEST ROOMS, INCLUDING 36 SUITES, WITH SPECTACULAR, UNOBSTRUCTED VIEWS OF KAPI‘OLANI PARK, DIAMOND H E A D , WA I K Ī K Ī B E A C H , A N D I N F I N I T Y V I E W S O F T H E PA C I F I C O C E A N .

QueenKapiolani.com

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the

JUNGLE look

TWO EXCLUSIVE RESORTS IN TROPICAL BORNEO BRIDGE THE GAP BETWEEN WILDERNESS AND L U X U R Y , W R I T E S K E L LY A L L E N

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touch, as our guide bravely handles one for a closer look.

IT’S A JUNGLE OUT THERE, AND I MEAN THAT LITERALLY. Next we snorkel in the clear warm waters off the boat, After 30 minutes of trekking through dense rainforest, we examining blue starfish and several species of clownfish have spotted two hornbills, a monitor lizard, exotic blue while making our way to a sand bar, but sadly upon closer butterflies, several long-tailed macaque monkeys, and two inspection, the sandbar has plastic bottles and other rubbish snakes – both venomous.

When we reach our destination – a bubbling waist-high crater strewn about.

Our guide explains that while they do beach clean-ups of thick, cold, oozing mud – my teenage daughters and I reach in and scoop out big handfuls. As we smear it all over our bodies in these remote areas, the wind brings rubbish from the mainland where the disposal of garbage is still a problem in and even into our hair, our guide Nico laughs and takes photos the coastal villages. for us as the mud hardens in the tropical heat.

Back at our villa, we swim in the free-form pool and relax on According to locals, the mineral-rich mud has great healing the large yellow daybed while Nora and Tina, our spa therapists, properties, and even if it doesn’t, it seems to deter the set up massage tables on the deck overlooking the ocean. bloodsucking mosquitos that have been feasting on us since we What follows is 90 minutes of pure bliss as Nora kneads started our trek. (Note to self: next time, stock up on hardcore my body with her small but powerful hands and a piece insect repellent as these jungle mosquitos are not fazed by of smooth bamboo, and finishes with a 16-point facial citronella spray). acupuncture massage.

We are on Pulau Tiga, an island off the west coast of There are three restaurants at the resort, but tonight we Borneo. This remote sanctuary, just 4.5 kilometres long and treat ourselves to a private dinner on the deck of our villa.

1.5 kilometres wide, was the location used in the inaugural Chefs Timmy and Joseph, along with a couple of sous chefs, series of the US reality TV show Survivor. set up a small kitchen near the deck Surrounded by a 15,000-hectare and cook up an array of delicacies. marine eco-reserve, the island and There are three restaurants at Fresh salads, seared local its newest luxury hideaway, Borneo the resort, but tonight we treat tuna, grilled New Zealand lamb, Eagle Resort, offer visitors a real-life chicken satay, freshly baked bread, Jungle Book experience – complete ourselves to a private dinner 24-hour brined organic chicken with wildlife, coral reefs and volcanic on the deck of our villa. Chefs roasted to perfection, and a fresh mud pools – but with fine dining, Timmy and Joseph, along with pineapple torte for dessert. Nearly soothing spa treatments and stylish all of the food is sourced from the villa accommodations. a couple of sous chefs, set up a Tan family’s private farm on the Borneo Eagle is an intimate 13-villa small kitchen near the deck and mainland, including the organically resort and the most recent addition cook up an array of delicacies. farmed fish and vegetables. to Echo Resorts’ luxury portfolio. The The next morning after enjoying Tan clan is a third-generation Sabahan breakfast by the pool, we take family that owns this and two other a boat back to the mainland and head to sister property sister properties along with a marine ecology research centre.

Bungaraya Island Resort and Spa. The one hour and 40-minute The centre has been very successful with its giant clam and drive to Kota Kinabalu passes through rolling countryside, coral restoration project, and guests can get involved by adopting virgin rainforest and small kampongs (villages) with orchards a coral or by spending a day as a fledgling marine biologist. and farms.

Once immersed in the program, guests come to realise Following the drive, a 20-minute boat transfer lands us on how unique the biodiversity in the area is, and become more Gaya Island. Bunga Raya means hibiscus – Malaysia’s national passionate about preservation and education so that it can flower. The Tans have a passion for them and dozens of varieties be enjoyed by future generations. can be found around the resort.

Back from our jungle trek, we lie on the sand and bake our Here the jungle seems even more dramatic with the resort’s mud-covered bodies in the sun until the thick coating starts to 48 timber villas perched on the hillside and linked by narrow crack. It takes a lot of scrubbing in the ocean to rinse it all off, footpaths that meander through the dense foliage. but our skin does feel pretty amazing when we’re done.

Our cheeky friends, the long-tailed macaques, also reside Eager for more adventure, we opt to tour the surrounding on this island and are regularly seen in the evening as they islands. The first stop is Snake Island, where yellow-lipped sea play along the shoreline. And don’t be alarmed if you hear kraits spend hot afternoons hiding between rocks. grunting under your villa, those are just wild boar rooting These poisonous sea snakes are a beautiful pale blue with around for a snack. >> striking black bands. I’m happy to look, but not game to

Opposite: Borneo Eagle resort features just 13 villas, including pool and spa villas as well as a separate main pool.

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Above: Bungaraya’s chic Longhouse and Pantai restaurants serve up delectable Malaysian food and Western favourites.

Left: Bungaraya’s Longhouse Pavilion silhouetted at sunset and a Pool Villa in vibrant tropical hues.

Keep in mind you’re in an authentic jungle setting in Borneo; it’s not sanitised for guests, so if you’re not happy with the occasional insect or curious primate, this holiday might not be for you.

Our two-bedroom Deluxe Suite is built into the side of the hill and reminds me of a lavish treehouse. The large furnished verandah has sweeping views over the ocean and pool, and is the perfect place to chill out.

The best way to experience the jungle is on the canopy walk and flying fox. It took local workmen more than a year to build these three suspension bridges and as the terrain was so rugged, everything was done using manpower. There are incredible views out to the sea and the three zip lines will have you soaring at some speed over the treetops.

Stand-up paddle boarding and kayaking are easy in the resort’s calm bay, and snorkelling straight off of the island is also good, with huge pink jellyfish, parrotfish and clownfish as entertainment.

There are three dining venues as well as in-room service. The Malaysian food at the Longhouse Restaurant is excellent; tender beef rendang, slow-stewed korma cinnamon lamb shoulder, and lip-smacking roti canai are our favourites.

The Koi Wine Cave is a romantic cellar with 4,500 quality wine bottles and is ideal for private dining, while Pantai Restaurant and Bar is beachfront and specialises

in succulent grilled meats and seafood. All of the resort’s restaurants offer Western dishes, but the Malaysian menu is so delicious, we never try any of them.

If you’re looking for a different type of holiday, something a bit on the wild side, Borneo Eagle and Bungaraya will give you the jungle look, but still immerse you in pampered luxury. Mowgli never had it so good.

The Details Royal Brunei, Singapore Airlines, AirAsia and Malaysia Airlines operate flights from Australia to Kota Kinabalu International Airport.

The private road transfer from the airport to Kuala Penyu Jetty takes about 90 minutes for the 10-kilometre boat ride to Borneo Eagle on Pulau Tiga.

Bungaraya Island Resort and sister Gayana Marine Resort are located on Pulau Gaya, the largest of the five islands in the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park. The two resorts are accessible by a 10 to 15-minute boat transfer from Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal in Kota Kinabalu.

All-inclusive room rates at Borneo Eagle start from about A$1,106 for a pool villa, A$1739 for a coral villa and A$2372 for a spa villa per night. For further details and bookings, echoresorts.com.

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A New Horizon

B A R E F O O T L U X U R Y A N D A H O L I S T I C H E A LT H R E B O O T G O H A N D - I N - H A N D AT A M ATA R A W E L L N E S S R E S O R T O N P H U K E T ’ S I D Y L L I C C A P E PA N WA THAILAND HAS LONG BEEN A FAVOURITE HOLIDAY DESTINATION for sun-seeking Australians after an international beach escape, but with the ever-increasing stress that comes with the 9-to-5 life, the tropical destination is frequently luring jet setters to its shores for a different reason: wellness retreats.

Thankfully, Amatara Wellness Resort’s signature, all-encompassing wellbeing experiences mean discerning travellers can get some serious self-care without sacrificing luxurious accommodation or ocean views.

Set in one of Thailand’s most beautiful locations on the southeastern tip of Phuket, Amatara’s holistic wellness experiences encompass the body, mind and spirit with a ‘middle way’ pursuit to wellness that encourages an enjoyable journey towards self-improvement, rather than a go-hard-or-go-home approach.

With six retreats on offer, guests can choose from detoxing and weight management experiences to yoga retreats that balance the mind and body as well as good old-fashioned pampering sessions.

A state-of-the-art fitness centre, yoga sala with panoramic views of the Andaman Sea, and a dedicated pilates studio await guests keen to give their bodies some due attention; while a steam room, infrared

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sauna and Amatara’s Thai Hammam, which melds traditional Turkish and Moroccan bathing practices with relaxing Thai spa therapies, encourage absolute unwinding.

Niggling aches and pains can be addressed with a professional physiotherapy session, while those wanting to focus on their diet can opt for a naturopathy consultation.

Amatara’s Holistic Vitality package combines integrative medicine with soulful spa sessions while the Brain Health Enhancement takes wellness a step further. A collaboration with the Brain Health Institute, the program combines preventative health care and luxury wellness to help draw guests’ attention to being ‘brain fit’. Who said being healthy on holiday was hard?

The Details Amatara’s Holistic Vitality package starts from $3350 per person twin-share for a five-night Wellness Retreat. For further information and bookings, call +66 (0) 7631 8888 or visit amataraphuket.com

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D N A L S I AN

Y E S S ODY LUCY JONES HOPS OVER TO KANGAROO ISLAND A N D D I S C O V E R S A U N I Q U E N AT U R A L W O N D E R L A N D T H AT ’ S A T R U E F E A S T F O R T H E S E N S E S

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THE RAMINDJERI NAME FOR KANGAROO ISLAND, Karta, translates to Island of the Dead, but with all due respect to its traditional owners, I’m thinking Gateway to Heaven might be a better description.

Australia’s third largest island after Tasmania and Melville, Kangaroo Island – or KI as it’s known locally – is lush and green, a natural wonderland fringed by tiny arcs of beach and icy blue ocean stretching to the horizon.

Just 4,500 people are lucky enough to live on this little slice of nirvana, although you hardly ever see them.

What you do see, however, is plenty of its namesake marsupials. The native kangaroos here are smaller and stockier than on the mainland, with chocolate brown fur and sooty black paws, and spend much of their time napping in the shade.

Kangaroo Island Odysseys is waiting for us at Kingscote Airport after our short Qantas flight from Adelaide. The company operates multi-day food and wine tours around the island, giving visitors an authentic taste of the produce that defines this wonderful destination.

Our home for the next few nights is LifeTime Private

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Retreats, a collection of five secluded houses on the north shore of the island, around an hour from the main town of Kingscote.

Each home is different in style, from a sleek contemporary four-bedroom to a Mediterranean-style villa and a magical one-bedroom artist’s retreat. I check in to the Settlers Homestead, a rustic-chic country farmhouse with three ensuite bedrooms and stunning views out over the valley.

This home is located just behind the picturesque Snellings Beach. The water is crystal clear, tropical almost – until I put my feet in. It’s bitingly cold, although I’m told it warms up over the summer a tad.

The property is run by Nick Hannaford, who grew up on the island and has an abiding passion for it. All of LifeTime Private Retreat’s homes have fully equipped kitchens or Hannaford can arrange for a caterer to make breakfast, lunch and dinner (and even clean up after) if you so choose.

Our first meal is suitably magical, served beneath vibrant green boughs of the Enchanted Fig Tree. The tree was planted by the island’s early colonial settlers and, over the years, has been shaped into a living dining room.

Above: LifeTime Private retreat lounge with views to Snellings Beach.

Opposite: Hannaford & Sachs dining experience in the shade of the Enchanted Fig Tree.

The food is as impressive as the setting, with a multicourse menu of local delights like scallop ceviche, squid flash-fried in polenta and smoked beef ribs. We also get our first taste of gin from Kangaroo Island Spirits, a special blend made just for LifeTime Private Retreats using a wild coastal daisy called olearia.

There are many more exceptional meals to come, served in different venues around the property. We eat a Greek-style feast in the Beach Taverna, once a family boatshed.

Fat prawns are grilled over an open flame, creamy taramasalata accompanies a bright quinoa salad, and lamb chops are cooked over a fire made only of newspaper – a Hannaford family signature dish. A simple roast chicken and crispy potatoes is the ideal dinner for the rustic Shearing Shed.

Though I would quite happily hide away at LifeTime, spending the day reading by the window or walking on the beach, there’s much more to see on KI. There are a dozen wineries on the island with about 200 hectares under vines. At The Islander Estate Vineyards, a private lunch is set up for us in between its huge concrete wine vats. >>

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© Photographs courtesy of South Australian Tourism Commission and Sealink South Australia

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The award-winning Kangaroo Island Spirits Gin Tasting Tour in full swing.

Chef Sue Pearson from 2 Birds and a Squid catering company serves up fresh KI oysters, sheep haloumi, King George whiting and a lemon delicious pudding. While we eat, kelpie collies Jill and Brix nap contentedly on the concrete outside. They don’t look too active, but we’re told they are a most effective pest control system and will run down anything from a mouse to a wallaby.

There’s time for a stop at Kangaroo Island Spirits for more of their award-winning gin. The spirits are distilled with native juniper foraged on the island or local mulberries, and there’s a range of flavoured liqueurs to try as well. The tours also include visits to Island Pure Sheep Dairy and Island Beehive to sample some more of the KI’s acclaimed produce.

On our final morning, a spectacular Moroccan breakfast is served on the terrace of LifeTime Private Retreat’s Cliff House overlooking the beach. The home looks like it belongs in the hills above Los Angeles, with its all-white walls, circular bedroom and 1970s-vibe conversation pit.

Vibrantly yellow eggs, creamy fetta, crispy bacon and fresh herbs are served with an endless stream of sweet mint tea.

The sun is shining, the sea is impossibly blue, and this ancient Island of the Dead is very much alive and thriving.

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The Details Kangaroo Island Odysseys operates a three-day, two-night Kangaroo Island Food, Wine and Wilderness tour, including accommodation in Kingscote, return flights from Adelaide, gourmet picnic lunches, private winery tours, and other tastings. Prices start from $2217 per person. For further information and bookings, visit kangarooislandodysseys.com.au and southaustralia.com.

Qantas operates year-round direct flights from Adelaide; five times a week during the peak summer season and three times a week for the rest of the year. Seasonal flights from Melbourne to Kangaroo Island also operate in December and January. For fares and bookings, visit qantas.com.

SeaLink Kangaroo Island operates a two-day/one-night Food, Wine and Natural Wonders tour, including accommodation at Kangaroo Island Wilderness Retreat, return coach and ferry transfers from Adelaide, dining experiences, private cellar and winery tours, and other tastings. Prices start from $762 per person. For further information and bookings, visit sealink.com.au and southaustralia.com.

A R T, A R C H I T E C T U R E , TA PA S A N D C A V A A R E THE CORNERSTONES OF BARCELONA AND ITS SCENIC W I N E C O U N T R Y, W R I T E S B A R R Y S T O N E

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THERE ARE TWO KINDS OF PEOPLE IN THE CROWD you’ll always find milling about on the pavement outside architect Antoni Gaudí’s masterpiece Casa Batlló on Barcelona’s Passeig de Gràcia, the grand boulevard that bisects the city’s sassiest shopping district: those still deciding whether to pay its €24.50 admission price, and those already queuing for tickets.

Me? I’m happily standing in line and, like everyone else, unable to take my eyes off the riotous facade rising above.

Oval-shaped windows set in local Montjuic sandstone, balconies so ornate, so curvaceous they’re positively lyrical, its outer skin a kaleidoscope of broken mosaic tiles, a roof line evoking the curve of a dragon’s backbone. Curves, curves and yet more curves. Well, Gaudí hated ‘straight’.

Inside there’s the stained glass in the Noble Floor, the inner ceramic-clad light well, and that gorgeous loft with its 60 U-shaped catenary arches that surely make it the world’s most over-engineered storage space.

Casa Batlló was already a private residence when it was given the makeover of the century by Gaudí in 1904, and is just minutes away from his other must-see triumph Casa Milà (1906-1912), a mix of apartments and other residences that can’t decide if it’s building or sculpture with its wavelike stone exterior, outrageous rooftop chimneys, and inside, a time-machine: a preserved, furnished apartment that will immerse you in the day-to-day of early 20th-century bourgeois Spanish life.

People flock to Barcelona from around the world because examples of Gaudí’s fanciful world are everywhere here, including the Sagrada Familia, his still-unfinished Basilica and one-off triumphal interpretation of the Gothic tradition.

Begun in 1882 and is due for completion (maybe) in 2026, it is a product of his observations in nature coupled with an indomitable faith. No wonder this deft practitioner of Catalan Modernism had the nickname “God’s Architect”.

Gaudí is so fêted you’d be forgiven for thinking his work is all there is to see here. But this was never just his city. >>

Left and above: Gaudí’s famous Park Guell and Casa Battló.

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Together with Paris, Barcelona was the beating heart of the Art Nouveau movement, an ornamental approach to architecture that flourished from 1890 to 1910 and includes what must surely be the world’s most beautiful concert hall, the Palau de la Música Catalana (1905-1908), designed by that other great Catalan architect, Lluís Domènech i Montaner. You must not leave Barcelona without seeing this.

Spread across a plain on the northeast coast of the Iberian Peninsula overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, Barcelona is the spiritual heart of Spain’s independent-minded Catalan people. It is a city of boulevards and promenades, a port city with a history of shipbuilding dating back to the 13th century, and a vibrant mix of historic neighbourhoods including the not-to-be-missed Barri Gòtic (Gothic) district.

It was here the city’s history began around 130BC when the Romans began to fortify the settlement they called Barcino, and which today includes the city’s most famous promenade, the 1.3 kilometre-long La Rambla.

Spain’s second-largest municipality might be big and bustling, but it’s far from daunting, its New York City-like grid pattern of wide, leafy streets making it easily navigable even for the first-timer (although keeping count of how many lefts and rights you’ve taken isn’t easy when there’s so much beauty to distract you).

And distractions are everywhere here including the Art Nouveau cast-iron street lamps on the Passeig de Lluís Companys, and the city’s 45-degree chamfered-corner buildings, their angled setbacks transforming intersections into open, breathable plazas.

You can’t even look down at its footpaths without being distracted by their innovative panots, patterned 20 x 20cm tiles composed of stucco, concrete and mortar that began

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being laid in 1916 and now comprise around five million square metres of pavement.

There’s the Rajola tile, the Pedrera (designed by Gaudí – yes, he’s everywhere), the Flor de Barcelona and the B de Barcelona to name a few. Here the art isn’t just found in its buildings, galleries and museums. You get to walk on it, too.

Spaniards rightly love their wines, and some 50 kilometres from Barcelona lies the scenic Penedès wine country, a viticulture hotspot with a well-deserved reputation for the production of ‘new’ wines using imported grapes (an irony as the locals are traditionally suspicious of ‘foreign’ grapes). >>

Top: The streets of central Barcelona are filled with tempting tapas restaurants.

Above: Passeig de Lluís Companys.

Opposite: The facade of Palau de la Música Catalana.

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© All images courtesy of Hotel El Palace Barcelona, Codorníu Winery and by Shutterstock

Spaniards rightly love their wines, and some 50 kilometres from Barcelona lies the scenic Penedès wine country, a viticulture hotspot with a welldeserved reputation for the production of ‘new’ wines using imported grapes (an irony as the locals are traditionally suspicious of ‘foreign’ grapes).

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Opposite: Some of the best ‘new wine’ in Spain is found in the vineyards of outlying Penedès.

Above: The underground wine cellar at Codorníu Winery, which dates back to the 16th century.

Below: The 99-year-old El Palace Hotel.

Codorníu Winery is Spain’s oldest family-run business with records dating back to 1551, and is the country’s secondlargest producer of cava (sparkling wine), what was long called champán here until French winemakers from the Champagne region took exception and started getting litigious.

If you come to Codorníu, don’t leave without taking a tour through its mind-boggling labyrinth of underground wine storage tunnels. Declared a Monument of National Historical Artistic Merit in 1976 by King Juan Carlos I, a subterranean world of vaulted brick ceilings spanning more than 30 kilometres over four levels and containing 90 million bottles of precious, sparkling cava.

Back in the city, what is cava without extraordinary food?

But where does one find Spain’s renowned tapas and other gourmet offerings?

Look no further than Lasarte or ABaC (with its three Michelin stars); the culinary institution that is Los Caracoles – operated since 1835 by four generations of the Bofarull family – or at Els Quatre Gats, once the favoured haunt of a young Pablo Picasso and the space that housed his first exhibition.

Another famous Barcelona artist was Salvador Dalí, and it

turns out we have something in common. We’ve both stayed at El Palace Hotel, the city’s last word in opulence ever since it opened in 1919 as the Hotel Ritz, although I can’t say I ever lived there for months on end, had a stuffed white horse delivered to my suite, or had myself photographed with models in its Versailles-like interior.

But I can say I know what it’s like to walk out of its front doors onto the Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes on a sunny Barcelona morning. I know how it feels to have until 11am to finish a leisurely breakfast, to drink a glass of cava at the tapas bar on its rooftop terrace, and look out across the city skyline to the evolving splendour of Gaudí’s Sagrada Familia.

And that’s more than enough for me.

The Details Cathay Pacific operates more than 70 flights a week to Hong Kong from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, Adelaide and Cairns, with onward connections to Barcelona every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.

The flight is operated by Airbus A350-900 offering Business, Premium Economy and Economy Class cabins with return fares from $1300. For more information and bookings, visit cathaypacific.com.au.

Luxury travel company Abercrombie & Kent is a specialist in private and small group journeys to Spain.

An eight-day journey in northern Spain, including two nights at Hotel El Palace Barcelona, two nights at Hotel Maria Cristina San Sebastian, two nights at Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao and two nights at Hotel Orfila Madrid with extensive private touring costs from $14,855 per person (twin share). For more information and bookings, call 1300 590 317 or visit abercrombiekent.com.au.

For further details on Barcelona and Spain, visit barcelonaturisme.com and spain.info.

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f o t Por

Call

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K A T I E M I LT O N V I S I T S T H E N E W S O U T H WA L E S C OA S TA L T O W N O F PORT MACQUARIE AND FINDS A THRIVING GOURMET FOOD AND W I N E D E S T I N AT I O N IT’S A BALMY SUNDAY AFTERNOON WHEN WE DRIVE INTO Cassegrain Wines Estate just 20 minutes’ drive from the centre of Port Macquarie. The sublime weather is not unusual for this delightful NSW coastal town, located about four hours north of Sydney and blessed with one of Australia’s most temperate climates.

Towering jacarandas with lilac flowers in full bloom flank the entrance drive to Cassegrain’s expansive gardens and vineyards, which I later learn can also be explored on horseback or enjoyed with a picnic basket prepared by the on-site Seasons Café Restaurant.

We descend the stairs into the wine cellar and continue down a path with shelves stacked high with wine barrels and illuminated by strings of fairy lights. As we turn the corner of this enchanting passageway, we are handed flutes of sparkling wine and ushered into the barrel room.

Beneath a soaring cavernous ceiling, long tables are lined with candles, casting a warm glow over the setting for the Cassegrain Wines Long Lunch – a five-course degustation menu that embodies the spirit of Port Macquarie and its burgeoning gourmet food scene: unpretentious, local and underpinned by quality.

This once-sleepy coastal town is located where the Hastings River spills into the ocean, bordered by kilometres of glorious coastline and an abundance of nature reserves and World Heritage rainforest. With these spectacular surroundings, it’s little surprise that Port Macquarie is forecast by the Australian Bureau of Statistics to be one of the State’s fastest-growing cities in the coming decades.

Its rapid growth is reflected in the trendy local cafés and quality dining venues that have sprung up in recent years – in laid-back haunts like Salty Crew Kiosk overlooking Town Beach; communityminded cafes like Drury Lane Eatery and Blackfish >> Left: Where land meets the ocean at Tacking Point Lighthouse.

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P O R T M A C Q U A R I E / LT Coffee in the town centre; the ocean-to-plate experience at Bill’s Fishhouse; and the chic Bar Florian with it 1960s-inspired Italian décor and a high-octane cocktail list to rival any capital city bar.

And when a relatively small coastal town gets its first coffee roastery – with the arrival of Peak Coffee Brew Lab and Roastery – that’s a sure sign of official entry into the foodie scene.

All of this, helped along by the crowds and producers flocking to the region for the annual Tastings on Hastings Food and Wine Festival – which is taking a hiatus in 2018 to make way for a series of bicentenary celebrations – has seen Port Macquarie evolve into a low-key foodie hotspot serving up some of the finest regional cuisine in New South Wales. And therein, lies its luxe appeal.

My sister and I settle in for a weekend of relaxation and indulgence the morning after our delightful Cassegrain experience with a facial and massage at Aqua Vitae Day Spa. The double treatment rooms are modest but cosy and while I sip a post-treatment herbal tea, my therapist offers some personal skin care recommendations. My mind however is firmly fixed on lunch.

In service since 1972, Whalebone Wharf Seafood Restaurant on Hastings River Drive has been recently renovated, giving the laid-back waterfront establishment a polished urban edge.

If you’re looking for a celebrity-worthy entrance, Port Macquarie Seaplane runs scenic flights along the town’s breathtaking coastline that ends with a splashy landing in front of Whalebone Wharf.

From our reserved window table, we enjoy a delicious seafood lunch accompanied by local sparkling wine and intoxicating views of the afternoon sun strafing the Hastings River.

Dinner that night is at the much-lauded Stunned Mullet.

Owned by Lou Perri and David Henry, it is the only restaurant in the Port Macquarie region to be awarded a National Food Guide Chef’s Hat and can be partly credited with putting Port Macquarie on the foodie map.

Set across the road from Town Beach with a glass-wall front, the restaurant is the perfect spot to sample the region’s famous oysters four ways with a glass or two from Perri’s 27-page wine encyclopedia (for lack of a better description).

And while I want to say we spent the final day of our visit walking the iconic nine-kilometre Port Macquarie coastal track, taking in beautiful ocean views at six local beaches and exploring the coastal rainforest at Sea Acres National Park, I’d be lying.

The temptation of a brunch overlooking the Hastings River at paddock-to-plate enthusiast Todd Richardson’s café LV’s on Clarence proved too great and we happily succumbed to one final gustatory experience.

The Details Port Macquarie is a four-hour drive north of Sydney. Alternatively, QantasLink flies up to five times a day from Sydney to Port Macquarie Airport (five kilometres west of the city’s CBD) with connections from all capital cities to Sydney. For fares and schedules, visit qantas.com.

For more destination information on the city and surrounds, visit portmacquarieinfo.com.au and visitnsw.com.

Setting Sail in Luxury Port Macquarie is blessed with an abundance of natural beauty and numerous attractions, not to mention a burgeoning culinary reputation, and is now moving firmly into luxury hotel territory.

The city recently welcomed the arrival of Sails Port Macquarie by Rydges, a stylish and contemporary new coastal resort located on Park Street, overlooking the Hastings River and a stroll to the city centre.

The hotel has emerged from a multi-million-dollar construction and design project by leading Gold Coast-based Hamilton Hayes Henderson Architects as a relaxed and welcoming Hamptons-inspired leisure, conference and events destination.

Capitalising on its breezy waterfront location, the resort comprises 92 rooms and suites, a pool with entertainment terrace, private jetty, The Boathouse Restaurant & Bar, tennis court and pretty wedding chapel.

The vibe is contemporary coastal with poolside cabanas, an alfresco fire table, and a chilled cocktail, Champagne and oyster bar.

Packages start from $274 per night with breakfast. For further information and bookings, visit sailsportmacquarie.com.au.

Left: Whalebone Wharf Seafood Restaurant. Above: Sails Port Macquarie by Rydges, overlooking the Hastings River.

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Hail to the Queen

AN ICONIC LUXURY HOTEL IN WAIKIKI REOPENS THIS S P R I N G F O L LO W I N G A S P E C TAC U L A R R E N O VAT I O N FRESH FROM A US$35 MILLION RENOVATION, HAWAII’S QUEEN Kapiolani Hotel is set to open this spring. Located on Kapiolani Park, where Diamond Head meets Waikiki, the hotel is steps from the iconic beach and surf breaks, and the bustling shops and nightlife of Waikiki.

Built in the mid-1960s during Waikiki’s Golden Age as one of Honolulu’s grand full-service hotels, Queen Kapiolani’s reimagining embraces its rich and colourful heritage with a retro-chic aesthetic while incorporating the contemporary enhancements that meet the needs of today’s travellers.

At 19 storeys, the hotel offers 315 stylish guestrooms, a large openair lobby that fronts Kapiolani Park, a state-of-the-art fitness center, and a spectacular third-floor lanai (outdoor deck) and pool.

This unique space – endearingly referred to as the hotel’s outdoor living room – also features DECK, a new restaurant, bar and lounge.

Queen Kapiolani has partnered with global hospitality brand Plan Do See to create a fun yet relaxed restaurant, serving cuisine inspired by fresh local seafood and designed to be shared, as well as an array of craft cocktails.

Perfect for sunbathing, taking in the sunset with a cocktail in hand, or snapping a family photo with Diamond Head as the backdrop, the third-floor lanai offers breathtaking panoramic views of Waikiki Beach, the lush and verdant Kapiolani Park, and Diamond Head.

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The new-look hotel recently unveiled three large original art murals in the grand lobby paying homage to the golden era of Waikiki. And once the renovation is complete, a second-floor gallery will take visitors on a visual journey of Hawaii history with classic art, period pieces and modern installations.

Portraits of Hawaiian ali‘i (royalty) such as King David Kalākaua, Princess Victoria Ka‘iulani and Queen Julia Kapi‘olani herself will grace the Royal Gallery in these original pieces, which are oil on canvas.

Queen Kapiolani’s guestrooms offer unparalleled views of Diamond Head as well as stunning ocean views.

Transformed into comforting retreats, the refreshed accommodations incorporate coastal colour palettes, modern amenities, large new windows, and individual lanais. The furniture, hand-selected by leading local design firm Philpotts Interiors, aligns with the hotel’s cool retro-chic vibe.

With quintessential landmarks at its doorstep, Queen Kapiolani can arrange hiking, biking, surfing and paddle boarding, and the chance to relax in a beautiful Hawaiian setting.

The Details For further information and bookings, visit queenkapiolani.com

EUROPE HOTEL BARGE CRUISES

Canal du Midi • Loire • Burgundy • Venice • Holland • Thames • Scottish Highlands One week canal or small river cruises. Quality cabins with own bathroom. Onboard chef with regional cuisine and fine wines. Daily coach excursions to vineyards, chateaux, galleries, gardens. Bicycles available onboard.

Talk to our expert staff about your next inland cruising holiday in Europe:

Tel: 1800 331 582 www.outdoortravel.com.au

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A$59.99 12 MONTH SUBSCRIPTION

S U B S C R I B E T O DAY !

RECEIVE A 16% DISCOUNT ACROSS 4 ISSUES (1 YEAR), WITH FREE DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR.

LU X U RY T R AV E L M AG . C O M . AU S U B S C R I P T I O N S @ LU X U RY T R AV E L M E D I A . C O M . AU 1 2 4 | l ux ur y tr av elmag.c om.au

SPRING 2018

Features

Lion’s Head, Cape Town

S pa r kl i ng Saffire 12 6 / Oh , Can ad a! 134 T h e G r a nd Tour 1 4 2 / A Vin e Ro m an ce 15 0 / Cap e Cru sad er 158

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S PAR KLIN G

A RELAXED PINOT NOIR WEEKEND AT S A F F I R E F R E YC I N E T S H O W C A S E S TA S M A N I A A S A W O R L D - C L A S S W I N E , F O O D A N D N AT U R E D E S T I N AT I O N W o r d s b y A N D R E W C O N W AY

I

t’s 8.30pm on a frigid Saturday evening in Tasmania and there’s no place on earth I’d rather be right now. The chic restaurant I’m dining in is glowing with candlelight, the atmosphere is abuzz with laughter and lively chatter, delicious food is flying out of the kitchen, and vintage wine is flowing like the Franklin River.

Canapés served with a Stefano Lubiana Grande Vintage 2008 are followed by a crudo of hiramasa yellowtail kingfish paired with a 2014 Jansz Vintage Rose. Next, stripey trumpeter, beurre blanc, local Great Oyster Bay mussles and beach herbs are washed down with a Pooley Cooinda Vale Chardonnay 2017.

Had the waiters stopped at the free-range partridge with shitake mushrooms and celeriac and a Géantet-Pansiot Bourgogne Les Bons Batons Rouge 2015, I’d have been more than happy. But no, the best is yet to come with Springfield Farm organic venison, smoked beetroot, Tasmanian pepperberry, pickled radicchio and Longley Farm quince.

I almost place a hand over my glass before a Josef Chromy 2015 is poured, but I’m very glad I don’t. It is astonishingly good.

Almost defeated, I step outside into the whisper-still and crisp, clear night, stand under a vast canopy of shimmering stars and nearperfect crescent moon, and breathe in the sweet Tasmanian air.

Off to bed? Not on your life. I’m back at the table to finish a memorable degustation wine dinner with the chef’s final creation of Fallen Autumn Fruits and a nectar-hued Freycinet Vineyard Botrytis 2011.

The restaurant’s panoramic windows reveal nothing of the now ink-black landscape outside, but rather reflect the glow of table lamps and flickering candles onto the soaring timber ceiling. >>

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Above: Saffire Freycinet’s pinot noir weekend is hosted by leading wine expert and communicator Tyson Stelzer.

Opposite: Floor-to-ceiling windows in the resort’s entrance lobby and lounge frame panoramic views of Great Oyster Bay. Previous page: All of Saffire’s 20 luxury suites offer spectacular views of The Hazards.

Welcome to Saffire Freycinet’s annual Pinot Noir Weekend, one of a series of vintage wine, Champagne and whiskey celebrations that not only showcase the finest wineries and distilleries Tasmania has to offer, but the Apple Isle’s extraordinary natural beauty.

This pinot noir weekend is a three-day event for only 40 fortunate guests comprising elegant cocktail receptions and gourmet dinners, casual lunches, unique wilderness experiences, spa treatments, as well as a fascinating pinot noir masterclass by multi-award-winning Australian wine communicator Tyson Stelzer (more on that later).

Part of the prestigious Luxury Lodges of Australia portfolio, Saffire Freycinet is unique within Tasmania and comparable only to the likes of Southern Ocean Lodge in South Australia, One&Only Wolgan Valley in NSW, and qualia in Queensland – all of which hold iconic status by offering five-star luxury experiences in stunning natural settings.

Located midway along Tasmania’s east coast, two-and-a-halfhours’ drive northeast of Hobart and two hours southeast of Launceston, this strikingly contemporary resort cocoons guests in unbridled comfort and privacy, yet actively encourages them to become immersed in the rare primordial wilderness beyond.

This luxury-in-nature approach is a cornerstone of the Saffire

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ethos delivered by General Manager Justin King and his highly trained staff of about 100, who make sure every guest request, every whim, is met. “Everything we do here has to have a sense of luxury, authenticity and surprise,” he says. “We can’t do anything without one, or all three, of those things.”

Luxury is all around from the eye-catching curved entrance lobby – with its panoramic windows framing Great Oyster Bay, the monumental pink granite peaks of The Hazards, bushland and white-sand beaches – to the 20 super-private, single-storey suites set in front of the main lodge.

Authenticity abounds in Saffire’s unique stingray design (the bay is a ray, shark and skate nursery), blending discreetly into the surrounding wilderness. Not to mention the resort’s exceptional food and wine – 80 per cent of which is sourced from independent Tasmanian growers and producers and Saffire’s own kitchen gardens – and served by crisply uniformed and welcoming staff, many of whom are Tasmanian.

The surprise element is what lies beyond the resort, a pristine and thankfully protected natural eco-environment, best seen on Saffire’s array of complimentary and signature guest experiences from guided walks to beautiful Wineglass Bay, to sportier outdoor activities and an encounter with a reclusive Tasmanian devil in its natural setting. >>

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Below and opposite: Saffire guide Declan Brown takes guests to an oyster farm, on one of 19 complimentary excursions and experiences on offer in the area.

During this special pinot noir weekend, I opt for one complimentary and one signature experience, both delivering Tasmania’s wilderness at its very best.

Under a cloudless Saturday morning sky, seven fellow guests and I are driven by minivan to Coles Bay wharf where affable boat captain Steve Fahey and deckhand Nicole Dyble are standing by with a 12.5-metre Naiad rigid inflatable boat.

The ensuing four-hour trip is nothing short of a David Attenborough documentary, complete with shimmering waters, playful seals, a pod of dolphins, a vast sea eagle’s nest 25 years in the making, and a coastal landscape dating back to Jurassic times.

A circumnavigation of remote and untamed Schouten Island takes us deep into hidden coves and other-worldly rocky outcrops brimming with seals and their pups, eclipsed only by a breathtaking aerial display by two wedge-tailed eagles being divebombed by pesky ravens.

The extraordinary cruise ends at Bryan’s Beach – a crescentshaped, white-sand beach (named after an old whaling captain) with opalescent waters – where we stop for a light lunch served with several bottles of chilled Tasmanian sparkling wine. All in all, the best $275 I will spend all year.

The following morning, I head out to nearby Freycinet Marine Oyster Farm – one of Saffire’s 19 complimentary experiences – where four other guests and I don waders and walk out into

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the chilly Swan River to a cluster of prime oyster beds.

After a fascinating lesson in oysters by our personable guide Declan Brown, he pulls a crisp white linen table cloth, five flutes, two bottles of local sparkling wine and an oyster shucker from his backpack and lays them all out on the weathered wood table.

He wades back into the estuary, harvests more than two dozen fresh and unopened shells of all shapes and sizes, cracks them open like a pro, and delivers us an oyster-and-bubbles Sunday brunch like no other.

But I’m digressing from the weekend’s signature events: a much-anticipated Saturday afternoon pinot noir masterclass by leading wine communicator Tyson Stelzer, followed by the gala wine dinner in Saffire’s Palate restaurant.

Queensland-based Stelzer, the author of several awardwinning wine books, is an eloquent communicator with exceptional knowledge and understanding of Australian and international wines, making him the perfect host for this pinot noir masterclass and dinner.

While he touches on the wine’s traditional French heritage during the masterclass, Stelzer extolls the many virtues of Tasmania’s pinot noir, widely acclaimed as an outstanding wine, especially the 2015 vintage which Stelzer rates as the best in a decade.

“Pinot is a grape that has very specific needs in terms of climate, where it’s grown, the soil, temperature, sunshine and >>

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The ensuing four-hour trip is nothing short of a David Attenborough documentary, complete with shimmering waters, playful seals, a pod of dolphins, a vast sea eagle’s nest 25 years in the making, and a coastal landscape dating back to Jurassic times.

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© Photographs courtesy of Saffire Freycinet and by Ros Wharton

T A S M A N I A / LT Saffire’s private suites are cocoons of luxury and comfort with breathtaking panoramas of the surrounding wilderness.

rainfall,” he says. “There are literally only a handful of places in the world that make truly great pinot noir and the great vineyards of Tasmania are among them.”

Showcasing five leading Tasmanian winemakers – Pooley Wines, Josef Chromy, Stefano Lubiana, Freycinet Vineyard and Jansz – as well as Géantet-Pansiot from Burgundy, Stelzer treats his class to stellar tastings along with a fascinating commentary and personal anecdotes by the winemakers themselves.

“Tasmania has an incredibly innovative approach to winemaking in Australia, there’s some real pioneering going on here,” says Jennifer Doyle, Jansz vineyard manager. “I really wouldn’t want to be working anywhere else.”

With the gala wine dinner in full swing, I really don’t want to be anywhere else either, but soon the comfort and privacy of my suite beckons.

Saffire’s 20 deluxe accommodations comprise 10 Signature Suites, six Luxury Suites and four Private Pavilions, and are all similar in interior design and ambience, but vary in size and location.

The suites are an eclectic mix of traditional and contemporary design, with locally made timber mixed with mid-century furnishings such as chairs designed by Charles and Ray Eames and Herman Miller.

All suites feature picture windows, framing The Hazzards and Great Oyster Bay, as well as swish bathrooms and outdoor decks for relaxing and quiet contemplation of the expansive natural wilderness. And each suite is cleverly positioned to maximise the panoramic views while not encroaching on neighbouring suites.

The three-storey main lodge is the resort’s social hub with guests

mingling between the reception lobby, plush Saffire lounge, elegant Palate restaurant and dedicated spa. The resort never feels crowded, even when full, and the vibe is thoroughly relaxed and informal.

I’m really trying hard to find fault with this iconic Tasmanian retreat, but like any great Tasmanian pinot, Saffire Freycinet is little short of perfect – down to the very last drop.

The Details Saffire Freycinet is located midway along Tasmania’s east coast,a scenic two-and-a-half-hour drive from Hobart and two hours from Launceston.

Australia’s leading airlines fly daily into Hobart and Launceston from most capital cities.

Saffire guests arriving at or departing from Hobart Airport are invited to use the Saffire Airport Lounge to freshen up before or after their flights.

Saffire offers a luxury limousine service from Hobart or Launceston to the resort; helicopter and air transfers are also available via third parties from both airports.

Room rates including daily breakfast, lunch and dinner with beverages; mini bar and Saffire lounge beverages; a host of complimentary Saffire experiences; WiFi; and Spa Saffire credits of $100 to $200 (depending on your choice of accommodation), start from $2100 per suite per night for up to two guests. For more information and bookings, visit saffire-freycinet.com.au.

For further details and to contact Tyson Stelzer, visit tysonstelzer.com and winepress.com.au.

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Oh,

Canada!

PRISTINE FORESTS, B R E AT H TA K I N G S C E N E R Y A N D GRAND LUXURY HOTELS COMBINE TO MAKE WHISTLER, VICTORIA A N D VA N C O U V E R S T U N N I N G Y E A R - R O U N D D E S T I N AT I O N S W o r d s b y C A R O LY N L O C K H A R T

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ir trees and cedars soar to a lofty canopy above the hiking trail. It’s damp and green on the forest floor where giant leaves of skunk cabbage grow between mossy fallen branches. Our guide silently points to fresh scats on the path. Black bears have recently passed this way.

Crossing a plank bridge, we discover a tumble of railway carriages that have slithered down an incline towards the river. Every surface of the wrecked train is covered in wild graffiti. Bears, birds, words and shapes in brilliant colours incongruously light up the forest.

When seven boxcars mysteriously ran off the rails in the 1950s, local authorities decided the wreckage was too difficult to remove from this remote location so, with inspired lateral thinking, they encouraged artists to create this extraordinary outdoor gallery. >> Left: Fairmont Chateau Whistler at the base of Blackcomb Mountain.

Above: An outdoor gallery created from old boxcars in British Columbia. l u x u r y t r a v el m a g .c o m .a u

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Fairmont Château Whistler has its own scenic golf course, designed

by Robert Trent Jones, open from May to October. “It’s the best place to see black bears,” several locals tell us. There’s even glacier golf where truly high-flying golfers can helicopter to the top of a glacier and hit biodegradable balls into the wide blue yonder.

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This is my first day in Canada’s British Columbia and I’m taking part in a Whistler Experience, one of the complimentary guided excursions offered to guests of the luxury Fairmont Château Whistler.

This popular mountain and ski resort is usually associated with perfect powder snow and glamorous winter sports. I soon discover that Whistler is a year-round playground with fascinating things to do in every season.

It’s early spring now and the gardens around the hotel are full of daffodils and tulips. There’s fresh green grass on the slopes and the last dusting of winter snow sparkles on the mountain peaks.

Fairmont Château Whistler sits like a magnificent European château at the base of Blackcomb Mountain, surrounded by its own little village of upmarket shops, art galleries and the informal Wildflower Restaurant. There’s a spa and large heated indoor/outdoor pool next to a sunny terrace and several tennis courts.

The 539 spacious guest rooms and 11 suites all have mountain views and the newly created Alpine Suites on the top levels of the building have fireplaces and a luxe rustic decor.

Intrepid skiers can take a helicopter to remote slopes, but the warmer seasons are perfect for other adventure activities such as zip-lining, hiking, mountain climbing and that very Canadian sport of axe-throwing, where you can unleash your inner lumberjack.

Fairmont Château Whistler has its own scenic golf course, designed by Robert Trent Jones, open from May to October.

It’s the best place to see black bears, several locals tell us.

There’s even glacier golf where truly high-flying golfers can helicopter to the top of a glacier and hit biodegradable balls into the wide blue yonder.

Don’t miss the Scandinave Spa nearby where outdoor hot and cold hydrotherapy pools and saunas provide the perfect antidote for jet lag or aching muscles.

Voted Best Ski Resort in Luxury Travel Magazine’s Gold List

2018, Whistler is a sophisticated holiday resort, so there’s plenty to do in the evenings year-round. Bars and restaurants in Whistler Village have a relaxed vibe as crowds wander the Central Square. The popular Sushi Village is famous for its innovative Japanese dishes and the house cocktail, a delicious saké margarita.

Bar Oso is the place to be seen and to sip Canadian pink gin with pink grapefruit juice and juniper berries. Glamorous young customers prop up the bar wearing ultra-warm furlined jackets and teeny tiny shorts teamed with bare legs and hiking boots.

The Grill Room at Fairmont Château Whistler is more formal with signature dishes cooked at the table by charismatic maître d’ Adam. His preparation of pink gin and tomato soup is a delicious piece of theatre. The menu featuring local produce includes truffle and parmesan fries and bison steaks with grilled new-season asparagus. >>

Above: Rooms at Fairmont Château Whistler feature quintessentially lodge-style décor.

Below: Visitors love to try their hand at the quirky Canadian sport of axe-throwing or go hiking to Inukshuk on rugged Whistler Mountain.

Opposite: The Fairmont’s spectacular golf course views.

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Even leaving Whistler is another pleasant adventure. Our little Single Otter seaplane takes off from Green Lake and flies between spectacular snow-covered mountains to touch down on Victoria Harbour, just below our hotel, the regal Fairmont Empress Hotel in Victoria.

Victoria is the capital of British Columbia set at the southern end of Victoria Island. Several grand buildings from its British Colonial past have been preserved including the Empress Hotel, which opened in 1908 and was named after Britain’s Queen Victoria.

The hotel has recently completed a $60 million renovation. The 464 rooms and suites are all different and all are luxurious. The new gold offering is “a hotel within a hotel” with 65 new suites and exclusive use of a terrace bar and lounge.

Grand public spaces have been restored to their original elegance with modern luxury twists. Lofty ceilings are hung with dozens of dazzling original light fixtures.

Q at the Empress, the hotel’s main restaurant and bar, emphasises the royal connection with metres-high artworks

by Julie Coyle featuring monochrome photographs of the young Victoria printed on silver and overlaid with coloured flowers. They are gorgeous, but I doubt Her Majesty would have been amused.

Dinner beneath the royal gaze is a marvellous introduction to local ingredients. Both the delicious halibut (a large flatfish with firm white flesh) and spot prawns have a short spring season with the delicate tips of fiddlehead ferns, the perfect vegetable accompaniment.

High Tea at The Empress, served with great ceremony in the Lobby Lounge, is a well-loved institution with more royal connections. King George VI and Queen Elizabeth came to stay in 1939 and took tea from the same pretty tea service

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used to this day. It’s now made exclusively for Fairmont Empress and is available in the hotel shop.

Victoria is called the “Garden City” with its low-rise buildings set behind grassy banks and myriad flowerbeds.

Rhododendrons bloom all over town including a lovely pink specimen in the hotel gardens. It’s the favourite retreat of Roger, the hotel’s resident marmot who comes out for photographs if you whistle.

The famous Butchart Gardens that spread over 22 hectares were planted 100 years ago and are designated a National Historic Site of Canada. Sparkling Victoria Harbour is constantly busy with jaunty water taxis that look like mini vintage ferries.

Eagle Wing Whale & Wildlife Tours takes us into much deeper waters on a luxurious catamaran. We see humpback whales and various types of seals, but are disappointed >>

Above: Pretty Butchart Gardens, and Fairmont Empress at Victoria Harbour.

Below: Sunset view of Victoria Harbour from Q at the Empress.

Opposite: Royalthemed art adorns the walls in Q at the Empress.

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© Image courtesy of Fairmont Empress

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Above: Fairmont Hotel Vancouver.

Right: Totem pole-inspired headdress in Stanley Park, Vancouver.

Opposite: The Notch8 bar at Fairmont Hotel Vancouver.

that killer whales are not around today. Sydney, our young marine biologist guide, almost makes up for this with her enthusiastic and informative commentary.

The V2V ferry is a delightful way to travel from Victoria Island to our next destination. Breakfast is served as we pass hundreds of small, mostly uninhabited islands to arrive in Vancouver in time for lunch at waterside Japanese restaurant Miku.

Vancouver is nestled between the majestic coastal mountains and the Pacific Ocean. It’s a vibrant and cosmopolitan city, but still retains a gracious charm with heritage buildings and open garden squares sitting comfortably alongside some elegant modern developments on the harbourfront.

Fairmont Hotel Vancouver is a city landmark designed in French Renaissance style with an imposing façade that includes a menagerie of gargoyles and a steep copper roof turned a lovely blue-green by its verdigris patina.

One of Canada’s original grand railway hotels, it was opened in 1939 by King George VI and Queen Elizabeth.

There are 557 guest rooms with recent renovations adding magnificent heritage suites on the 14th floor fit for royalty.

Notch8 (named after the highest speed a skilled train

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driver could reach) is the hotel’s signature restaurant open for all meals. Recently refurbished with warm browns and teal blues, it makes for an inviting place to discover imaginatively named specialty dishes such as Elk in the Woods and Garden Under the Sea. One of Vancouver’s greatest assets is the glorious Stanley Park close to the city. Walking and riding trails meander through natural forest areas of ancient trees with lakes, gardens, restaurants and even several beaches included in its sprawling 400 hectares.

We take a Talking Trees Tour with First Nation Ambassadors, Alfonso and Candice, who tell us about their heritage and point out native food plants and describe the way cedar bark was painstakingly cured to make artefacts.

Alfonso serves us mugs of hot “swamp tea” made from berries and herbs.

I discover the Hop-On, Hop-Off buses and trolleys are an excellent way to cover the main attractions of Vancouver.

Two different routes cover Stanley Park, the foodie precinct of Granville Island, boutique shopping areas and the edgy precinct of Gastown.

After a week in British Columbia staying at three glorious Fairmont hotels, I feel a little like an indulged tourist from an earlier century who travelled in luxurious style from one fantasy château to another.

The Details Air Canada flies direct to Vancouver from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne. The Boeing 787-800 Dreamliner’s new Signature Class offers award-winning Business Class style and service in a quiet, comfortable and private cocoon during the 14-hour flight.

Fairmont Château Whistler can arrange a chauffeur-driven vehicle for the two-hour transfer from Vancouver International Airport to Whistler. Fairmont hotel rates vary according to the seasons.

With more than 20 years’ experience, Travel Associates will ensure you experience the best that Canada offers along with the best Air Canada fares and Fairmont room rates. Call 13 70 71 or visit travel-associates.com.au to find your local adviser.

Australian travellers must apply for an eTA visa to travel to Canada. The cost is approximately $7 and the visa can be arranged in advance online. canada.ca/eTA.

Breezing through Brisbane Airport A destination in itself, Brisbane International Airport is a spacious, beautifully designed and easy-to-navigate airport that helps ease the stress of travel. The stylish and contemporary terminal is a showcase for works of art and has every amenity including gourmet food outlets, highly competitive duty-free shopping, and also excellent facilities for service dogs travelling with their owners.

The airport currently connects to 31 international destinations and will help ease your journey in and out of Australia. bne.com.au.

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THE GRAND TOUR BELMOND GRAND HIBERNIAN – IRELAND’S FIRST LUXURY SLEEPER TRAIN – JOURNEYS IN STYLE THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLE’S GREEN AND GLORIOUS LAND Wo rd s b y P H I L H AW K E S

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“May the road rise up to meet you, may the wind always be at your back…”

his old Irish proverb seems remarkably prescient right now as my wife and I are standing on Ireland’s wild and majestic Cliffs of Moher, although the wind is more a howling gale and the rain is falling almost horizontally.

And the path we’re travelling on through Ireland’s green and glorious heartland isn’t actually a long and winding road, rather a straight and narrow railway track on board Ireland’s first luxury sleeper train.

The term ‘luxury sleeper train’ really doesn’t do this remarkable country-house-on-wheels justice. Just as the legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express transports well-heeled passengers from London to Venice in supreme style and comfort, Belmond Grand Hibernian does the same around Ireland – only with much more contemporary Gaelic flair.

Launched in 2016 to great fanfare, the train offers leisurely sojourns of the Emerald Isle each year between April and October, scheduling journeys of two, four and six nights that stretch across both Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland – each departing and arriving back at Dublin’s Heuston Station.

We’re on board the four-night Legends and Loughs, a wonderful itinerary that meanders leisurely between Cork, Killarney, Galway and Westport, offering a slice of Ireland at is best with a thick pat of Kerrygold butter on the side.

The gleaming midnight-blue train sets a new benchmark for luxury train travel in Ireland. Steeped in history and heritage and polished to

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within an inch of its life, the train comprises 20 elegant carriages with room for just 40 fortunate passengers, a saloon-style Observation Car and two elegant restaurant cars.

Each carriage bears the title of a well-known Irish county – Kerry, Down, Leitrim, Waterford, and the like – their names rolling off the tongue like a plump Galway oyster washed down with a pint or two of charcoal-black Guinness.

The 16 twin and four double private compartments have a surprisingly fresh and modern ambience, each with an ensuite shower, wardrobe, desk, and picture window for gazing out at Ireland’s emerald green scenery rolling by.

Each carriage has a unique interior design. Kerry is decked in vibrant purple; Down is splashed with pops of orange; bold reds add warmth to Leitrim, and cool blues are a natural choice for coastal Waterford. (The double cabins can interconnect with twins, making them ideal for families or friends travelling together.)

The overall design aesthetic is Irish Georgian, a hard-and-soft blend of stone counters, wool carpets, and wonderful artworks by some of the country’s leading artists.

Soothing greys in a classic Irish tartan adorn many of the train’s soft furnishings, providing a seemingly simple yet calm backdrop to both the train and scenery outside.

Our journey starts on a chilly May morning at Dublin’s Westbury Hotel where we are greeted warmly by Anne-Marie, our tour director. “Maidin mhaith,” she says cheerily, giving “good morning” our first taste >>

Opposite: The Grand Hibernian’s Observation Car, Kildare, features a warm, soothing design – a nod to a traditional Dublin saloon.

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of the lilting Gaelic accent we’re about to hear so many times over the next five days. Over coffee and canapés, we have a chance to meet our small group of fellow travellers by the fire, before being whisked by coach to Heuston Station for the train’s departure.

With our neatly pressed crew waiting on the platform with glasses of perfectly chilled Laurent-Perrier, we’re shown to the Observation Car for a comprehensive briefing and then escorted to our cabin.

It’s a triumph of intelligent design – after all, this is a train carriage and space is obviously limited – but the designers have managed to create a feeling of comfort and warmth with Egyptian cotton bed linen, Irish duck down bedding, and toiletries by Bamford.

Every day, there’s an excursion by coach to a number of interesting places, including a couple not open to the general public. At Blarney Castle, for example, we arrive before the gates officially open and so are given the opportunity to kiss the Blarney Stone before the tourist crowd arrives (more than a million would-be kissers climb the steep castle stairs every year). It’s a tad scary leaning out over the parapet on your back, being held only by your legs while you kiss the famous stone, so just remember to take some wet wipes.

Another morning is spent at the historic Ashford Castle which was owned by the famous Guinness family for many years. Here we’re introduced to a friendly Harris hawk called Wilde (which fittingly also answers to Oscar).

We discover the ancient art of falconry and how to land a hawk on a well-gloved arm, followed by a gourmet lunch – although none of us dares ask if the “free-range chicken” on the menu is exactly that.

Failed falcon, anyone?

A fascinating visit to Jameson’s Whiskey Distillery is another highlight, complete with an educational Irish whiskey tasting. After

Left: The train’s stately cabin design echoes Irish heritage.

Below: Lucky passengers can explore some of Ireland’s most historic castles.

this, you’ll speak fluent Gaelic and swear never to touch scotch again.

Every activity is professionally planned and thoroughly enjoyable – even our wet and wild walk along the legendary Cliffs of Moher.

Then there’s the horse-and-carriage ride through rolling countryside to the ancient ruins of Ross Castle, culminating in a boat trip on Lough Leane, serenaded by some talented local musicians.

A visit to a mountainside farm and a sheep dog demonstration round out another day, reminding us of our Border Collie we left at home, half a world away. She wouldn’t be able to cope with these steep hills; her Irish cousins behave more like mountain goats.

All these daily optional activities (passengers are, of course, free to remain on the train and relax quietly should they so choose) naturally inspire a healthy appetite, and one of the train’s biggest surprises is the Grand Hibernian cuisine.

Master Chef Alan Woods explains why the food is so farm-fresh: “Every morning, very early, we pick up local produce from wherever the train is, and that determines the day’s menu. It’s a huge logistical exercise, but it’s also fun shopping at the local markets.”

The result is an Irish bounty of the most succulent seafood, meats, vegetables and cheeses served in the train’s two elegant restaurant cars named Sligo and Wexford.

Each dinner menu is a three-course feast. Tuesday, for example, brings a Dublin Bay prawn cocktail, roast Skeaghanore duck breast with dauphinoise potatoes, and a plump tarte tatin with banana ice cream and Middleton Whiskey sauce.

A head-spinning array of gourmet dishes featuring scallops, lamb, halibut, smoked salmon, crab, veal, rabbit, turbot, lobster, pork loin, tiny quails’ eggs and beef wellington fly out of the train’s compact kitchens throughout the trip, each one a triumph of culinary excellence. >>

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© Photographs courtesy of Belmond Grand Hibernian and by Nicole Tujague

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All wines are complimentary as are all other bar offerings – and this is where the real fun begins. Each evening sees a different talent board the train to entertain the passengers, a mini United Nations from Texas, Canada, Singapore and the Netherlands.

But it’s two Manhattan gals, straight out of Sex and the City, who really know how to party. One night they take over the bar duties and create some memorable cocktails. Needless to say the party outlasts the folk singers and storytellers and there are a few latecomers for breakfast the next morning.

Just like an Agatha Christie novel, there’s a certain air of mystery about some of our fellow travellers. For example, there’s the Dutch gentleman who wears a suit and tie to dinner (everyone else is smart casual). We call him William of Orange after the 17th century king who defeated James II at the Battle of the Boyne in 1690.

Then there’s our very own Singapore Girl who left her banking career behind, and who seemingly just travels the world in style.

And from America’s Deep South, a mother and daughter channelling Gone with the Wind with those curvy southern accents.

And that’s the ultimate joy of the Belmond Grand Hibernian. It’s a window to Ireland’s green and wild beauty; cosy, clever cabins; top class food and wine; extraordinary daily activities, and the chance to meet like-minded fellow travellers who subscribe to the wise words of Irish playwright Oscar Wilde: “I have the simplest tastes. I am always satisfied with the best.”

Gourmet food, fine wines and classic Irish entertainment play an integral part of the Belmond Grand Hibernian train experience.

The Details Belmond Grand Hibernian Ireland’s season runs between April and October each year and offers two, four and six-night itineraries. Prices start from €3,000 (about A$4,736) per person for a two-night journey with two guests sharing a twin or double cabin. For more information and bookings, visit belmond.com

The Golden Key to Dublin’s Heart Rarely will you find a luxury hotel anywhere in the world with four Les Cléfs d’Or (Golden Key) concierges. At The Westbury, Eddie, John, Ashley and Thomas provide guests with incomparable service from the moment of arrival, facilitating your check-in and arranging everything Dublin has to offer (don’t miss the Irish Writers’ Pub Tour). The Westbury’s guest rooms and suites are spacious and comfortable. It’s located in the heart of the city offering a variety of restaurants and bars including the hotel’s famous afternoon tea in The Gallery. But it’s the exceptional service culture that really sets this hotel apart, seamlessly complementing your Belmond Grand Hibernian experience. For further information and bookings, visit doylecollection.com.

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A Vine Romance S U R R O U N D E D BY G LO R I O U S G A R D E N S A N D V I N E YA R D S , T H E M A R L B O R O U G H LO D G E I S A V I N TAG E G O U R M E T R E T R E AT W H E R E GUESTS CAN RELAX AND UNWIND – COME RAIN OR SHINE W o r d s b y M A D E L I N T O M E LT Y

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am nestling into the cosy cocoon of my bed in the Kingfisher Suite at The Marlborough Lodge, propped up on just enough plump pillows to give me a clear view of the deluge happening beyond the balcony doors.

It’s the middle of winter and I’ve caught New Zealand’s wonderful Marlborough wine region on a particularly rainy weekend. So wet, in fact, that I find myself in bed at the very daytime hour of 4pm – a full 90 minutes before it becomes dark, let alone acceptable to be lying in bed at all – and yet, I feel absolutely no guilt whatsoever. I seem to have become a shameless daytime napper, and I blame The Marlborough Lodge.

The downpour is really a case of bad timing because Marlborough is known for its dry climate and enjoys more hours of sunshine than almost any other part of New Zealand. Yet during my three-day visit to the lodge, I’m met with numerous apologies from staff about the disobedient weather – as though they themselves are somehow responsible for the heavens opening up.

I’m actually chuckling because what they don’t realise is that The Marlborough Lodge has already passed the ultimate test. It’s one thing for a country lodge to impress when the air is warm, the sun is shining and nature’s colours are at their most vivid. But it’s entirely different for a lodge to exceed or even meet expectations when in the midst of ominous clouds, whipping wind and really rather irritating rain – and this particular lodge does just that.

Here, you feel like you not only have permission to, but that you really should let yourself completely unwind, because if not in a harmonious environment like The Marlborough Lodge, then where? This thinking goes to the very heart of the lodge’s Managing Director and Co-Owner Angela Dillon’s vision for the property.

“Holidays should be restful, and yet they’re often quite busy,” she says. “So, one of the things we find when guests come here is that they just want to stop and stay put – they want more time to spend relaxing and walking through the gardens.”

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You can’t help but feel a sense of serenity from the moment you enter the lush, green grounds of The Marlborough Lodge – voted Best New Zealand Property in a Food & Wine Region in Luxury Travel Magazine’s Gold List 2018 – and when the pristine grey and white, two-story weatherboard retreat comes into view, you know you’ve arrived somewhere special.

The lodge is the latest and ultimate incarnation of a building that began its life in 1901 as a Victorian convent in nearby Blenheim, a town small enough that it still doesn’t have traffic lights.

Some 26 years ago, the convent was deconstructed into five pieces and transported on trucks to its new home here in Marlborough – set amid almost eight hectares acres of glorious parklands.

Dillon and her business partner purchased the property in 2016 – then a family-run, four-bedroom bed and breakfast – with the goal of turning it into a luxury lodge, thereby filling a gaping hole in Marlborough’s high-end tourism market.

“What was really lacking in this area was a property at that top end to bring in international clients,” she says. “We are right in the middle of vineyards, which is really quite special. >>

The Marlborough Lodge’s sprawling grounds contain masses of lavender, native Rimu and plenty of citrus trees, as well as a flowing creek and a swimming pool.

“Holidays should be restful, and yet they’re often quite busy...so, one of the things we find when guests come here is that they just want to stop and stay put – they want more time to spend relaxing and walking through the gardens.”

ANGELA DILLION

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Opposite: The lodge is proudly New Zealand at heart, its walls covered in local art such as Sofia Minson’s Maori chief portrait, Ranginui.

This page: The public spaces and guest rooms are redolent of a grand but cosy country house.

There is no other property in New Zealand in a luxury lodge sense that is set in the middle of vineyards.”

The vision was to create the feeling that you had come into a luxurious, historical New Zealand country home. “I wanted people to feel that they could touch things, and that they could really could sit and relax,” explains Dillon.

She will be pleased to know, then, that I do my fair share of sitting at The Marlborough Lodge, and a lot of it is done in the library – a room that quickly becomes my favourite thanks to its comforting cosiness and a writer’s natural obsession with books. On any given night during my stay, you can find me relaxing there in a cushy armchair with a glass of Pinot Noir and a novel.

The majority of books in the library may be of the twodimensional bookshelf-themed wallpaper kind, but this whimsical touch just adds to the charm of this country lodge that is adorned with personal touches, courtesy of Auckland interior designer Peter Lloyd.

The Marlborough Lodge melds heirlooms and collectables with contemporary designer flair. Throughout the interior, eclectic touches blend with modern guest amenities like Nespresso machines, bliss-inducing deep bathtubs, and one of the best daily turn-downs I’ve experienced.

There is a strong feeling of local pride about the lodge, with every detail showing a deliberate decision on the owners’ part to tell Marlborough’s story and create a sense of place.

Much of the furniture and décor is locally sourced with New Zealand wool blankets covering the beds and local Ashley + Co amenities in the bathrooms.

Eye-catching New Zealand art by Kelvin McMillan, Kiwi landscapes and Sofia Minson’s stunning Maori chief portrait, Ranginui, adorn the walls. Even the mini bar in my room is stocked with New Zealand-made nibbles like Whittakers Marlborough Sea Salt chocolate and Proper Crisps that are hand-cooked in Nelson, a 90-minute drive from the lodge.

Each evening brings a personalised note on the bed with the next day’s forecast; petit fours and fresh water on the bedside table; and a New Zealand sheepskin on the floor next to the bed to keep your feet warm should you need to get up in the night.

These little touches materialise every day as if by magic, as I never so much as catch a glimpse of a housekeeping person during my entire stay. As Lodge Manager Karen McDonald says when I mention these charming details, “Oh, the fairies visited, did they?”

At The Marlborough Lodge, the magic happens behind the scenes while the guests mingle and sip Marlborough wine in the living room, oblivious to the frenetic activity in the commercial kitchen and phone conversations in the office with tour operators about the next day’s adventures.

I became acquainted with the Marlborough region as a 20-something, not because I had actually been there but because I started drinking sauvignon blanc. It was the first wine I learned to really enjoy, and quickly discovered that you can never go wrong with a glass of the Marlborough variety.

Clearly, I wasn’t the only one to discover this piquant drop and by the late 1990s the crisp and refreshing citrus and passionfruit notes of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc were wafting through the local and international wine world.

Ripples quickly became waves and the rest, as they say, is history. Today, Marlborough is New Zealand’s largest winegrowing region, home to 80 per cent of all New Zealand’s >>

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wine plantings, 85 per cent of which are dedicated to Sauvignon Blanc. Former farmlands and fruit orchards have been replaced by a staggering 25,000 hectares of vines divided among 141 wineries, and the industry injects more than $65 million per year into the local economy.

Wine is big business here, and there is a definite air of industry in the region as a result, but this doesn’t take away from the area’s authentic rural charm, which offers a very appealing respite from the rat race for urbanites like myself.

Marlborough’s 33 cellar doors are all within easy driving distance of the lodge, and the spectacular inlets of the Marlborough Sounds and the soft adventure kayaking and hiking trails including the beautiful Queen Charlotte Track are a mere 20-minute drive away.

Marlborough’s position at the top of the South Island makes it the ideal halfway point for those road-tripping from the south to the north and vice-versa, with The Marlborough Lodge primed to attract not only the high-end travel set, but also those wanting to drop in for a gourmet lunch.

The lodge’s restaurant, Harvest, is open to the public and driven by head chef Sam Webb, who serves up seasonal and locally sourced food he describes as “seed to harvest”.

“In Marlborough, we’re really lucky with the salmon we get in the Sounds, Cloudy Bay clams, and amazing lamb,” Webb tells me on my last morning, sitting on Harvest’s deck during a rare moment of sunshine. “We are trying to use the best producers we can and championing the small guy.”

My weekend has serendipitously coincided with The Marlborough Lodge’s Winter Food Series, so not only do I get the chance to sample outstanding produce at local wineries like Wairau River Wines and Brancott Estate – which has arguably the best view in all of Marlborough – but also the

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The Marlborough Lodge is the only luxury retreat in New Zealand set in the middle of vineyards and is located a 20-minute drive from the Marlborough Sounds.

talent of renowned Australian chef Damien Pignolet, a special guest of the lodge for the series.

Dillon tells me special series like this will become regular events with artists’ presentations, photography workshops, and a summer Long Harvest Lunch on the calendar later this year.

Chef Webb and his team are working towards becoming relatively self-sufficient, with a veggie patch and a beehive on the way in the lodge grounds, as well as a berry enclosure where guests can pick their own berries. There are also plans to expand the lodge, starting with the renovation of the old chapel into a spa and boutique, which will open in time for summer – Marlborough’s busiest season.

I’ve been hearing a lot of ‘oohing’ and ‘aahing’ from fellow guests about the lodge’s gardens, so with the sun finally out on my last morning, I take a walk outside to see for myself.

As I begin treading the bouncy grass, I immediately forget

Lodge chef Sam Webb serves up seasonal and locally sourced “seed to harvest” food at the aptly named restaurant Harvest, which is open to the public.

about unanswered emails, deadlines and my never-ending to-do list as my thoughts start to roam to lighter subjects, as carefree as the chickens I now find myself passing in the garden.

I amble past citrus trees, a crystal-clear creek, symmetrical rows of grapevines and wooden benches for contemplation, before a pair of Fantails emerge onto the bough of a Rimu tree in front of me.

It occurs to me that it’s probably this pair, along with the native Tuis and Bellbirds that I’ve seen flying around, that I’ve been waking up to each morning. I haven’t even needed an alarm clock here, because the moment the sun comes up, birdsong has been slowly bringing me into a half-sleep, before rising me in the way nature intended.

I stop: Wait, when is my flight again? I seem to have lost track of time during my stay here. And then I smile as I think, bravo – that is exactly what The Marlborough Lodge intended.

The Details The Marlborough Lodge is a short drive from Blenheim in the far north of New Zealand’s South Island. Transfers are available from Blenheim Airport as well as Picton, Nelson and Christchurch.

All-inclusive rates start from NZD$1200 (about A$1100) per night with accommodation in a Lodge Room, complimentary minibar, pre-dinner drinks and canapés, a gourmet dinner (excluding beverages), full breakfast and complimentary Wi-Fi. For further information and bookings, visit themarlboroughlodge.co.nz.

Air New Zealand flies daily from Australia to New Zealand.

For fares and bookings, visit airnewzealand.com.au.

For full details on Marlborough and New Zealand in general, visit marlboroughnz.com and newzealand.com.

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Cape Crusader E X T R AO R D I N A R Y N AT U R A L B E A U T Y A N D S E R I O U S C U LT U R A L C R E D L U R E T R AV E L L E R S TO C A P E TOW N , A LO N G W I T H A BEAUTIFUL GENEROSITY OF SPIRIT W o r d s b y K AT E S Y M O N S

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“Y

ou come as a tourist, but leave as a local.”

I must admit, when More Quarters’ Guest Relations Manager Justin Mpoyi made this bold suggestion as he pointed out key sites on my crisp city map, I let it pass as a bit of spin. To be fair, Justin didn’t seem the type. His wide, genuine smile had greeted us as warmly as the lobby’s crackling fire and his descriptions of nearby hotspots were laced with pride. But we were spending just a few days in Cape Town. Leave as a local?

I couldn’t imagine so.

Yet I was certainly open to the possibility. Cape Town is still basking in its rise as a world-class design hub and the city’s legendary natural beauty and flourishing dining scene ably support this reputation. So far, it’s ticking all the right boxes. Much of the on-trend vibe can be attributed to the city’s 2014 post as World Design Capital, a title presented biennially by the International Council of Societies of Industrial Design. Awarded to cities that recognise design as a tool for social, cultural and economic development, the designation resulted in hundreds of design projects in 2014 alone and the legacy is still very much evident today.

But let’s get one thing straight – Cape Town was appealing long before the design-savvy moved in. The provincial capital of South Africa’s Southwestern Cape, Cape Town is dramatically framed by imposing mountain ranges, rugged coastline and beautiful bays. Table Mountain is its star – standing strong and proud, like the locals we come to meet during our stay.

Formidable she may be, but the famous peak is shy at times, too, as we discover upon arrival in South Africa’s socalled “Mother City.” It’s a wet, grey day and Table Mountain

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and Lion’s Head are veiled in a thick and low-hanging fog that, according to the forecast, threatens to stick around for the duration of our visit. The shrouded icon still manages to impress and the promise of what lies beneath is palpable.

We don’t have to wait long as we’re blessed with a view of Table Mountain with our eggs the following morning.

Located in the suburb of Gardens, just off eclectic Kloof Street in the heart of the City Bowl, More Quarters is a luxury boutique hotel with, as might be obvious, magnificent panoramas of Table Mountain from the picturesque dining room. Having already accepted the possibility of missing the show, this felt like an exclusive performance and I revelled in my front-row seat, rooibos tea in hand. >>

This page: Cape Town from the air is a striking landscape; the vibrant colours of Bo Kaap; fun and colourful roadside crafts.

Opposite: The pristine beaches of Clifton and Camps Bay.

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It’s a wet, grey day and Table Mountain and Lion’s Head are veiled in a thick and low-hanging fog that, according to the forecast, threatens to stick around for the duration of our visit. The shrouded icon still manages to impress and the promise of what lies beneath is palpable.

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Opposite page: A mist-shrouded Lion’s Head rises above the clouds.

This page, clockwise: The Table Mountain cable car offers stunning views of the city; The Silo hotel’s striking entrance; the V&A Waterfront is a hub of shopping, restaurants and entertainment.

Thankfully, this blue-sky day coincided with our visit to Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, a lush 528-hectare estate nestled at the eastern foot of the majestic rock. The vantage points here are many, but it is the Tree Canopy Walkway, which snakes delicately through the treetops, that provides the winning view; an extraordinary vista that would almost certainly feature on the camera roll of every departing visitor.

For views of a different kind, a cable car will take you to the summit in about five minutes for 360-degree views of the city. The weather hijacks our plans on this occasion: the cable car is closed due to strong winds.

It’s hard to be mad at Mother Nature, though. The rain is good news for the city’s drought, a reality locals believe has been sensationalised by global media and thereby affecting

tourism. Water conservation is still a high priority and restrictions are in force. At More Quarters, rooms have signs kindly requesting guests avoid taking baths and reuse towels and linens. These and other obvious measures seem entirely reasonable and our health and hygiene are never compromised.

While the sky was mostly grey during my visit, Cape Town is bursting with energy and colour, endorsing South Africa’s moniker as the ‘Rainbow Nation.’ The V&A Waterfront – the city’s blue-riband precinct – is a hive of activity, packed with retail stores, restaurants, hotels and other star attractions.

The 123-hectare site has developed slowly but surely since work started in 1989 and its most recent addition – the Silo District – is arguably the most impressive. It’s my first port of call, thanks to the much-lauded reinvention of the historic grain silo.

An umbrella-less dash across the Marina Swing Bridge and I am standing – utterly awe-inspired – in the atrium of the landmark Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA). Here, British designer Thomas Heatherwick has performed architectural magic, slicing the 42 giant cylinders to create an extraordinary concrete honeycomb. If you’re able to pull yourself away from the grand entrance, you’ll find 100 separate galleries showcasing a cutting-edge collection of modern African art. The Silo Hotel occupies the grain elevator portion of the building and its level 6 bar, The Willaston, is a plush spot for a cocktail and a gallery debrief.

It’s impossible to pretend, though, that this colourful city has outrun its painful past. Homelessness is a regular sight and impoverished townships are scattered throughout, often wedged between leafy suburbs. The contrast is a heavy weight to bear at times.

South Africa’s uncomfortable history, characterised by colonialism, slavery and racial segregation, is memorialised in a number of ways throughout Cape Town, and our >>

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10 Great Things to See & Do Cape of Good Hope (above) The southwestern-most point of the African continent, this rocky promontory is full of humbling scenery. Watch out for pesky baboons!

Boulders Beach (top right) Just outside the city on the False Bay coastline, this is a chance to get up close to African Penguins. Think real-life Happy Feet.

Bo-Kaap A striking neighbourhood characterised by its heritage homes decked in bold colours, vividly reminiscent of Liquorice Allsorts. bokaap.co.za Robben Island Daily tours take in the island’s many historical sites, including the prison and cell Nelson Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years in jail. robben-island.org.za Chapman’s Peak Drive (below right) The nine-kilometre ocean road is a must. Time your drive for an unforgettable sunset over Hout Bay. chapmanspeakdrive.co.za Woodstock A vibrant neighbourhood with a range of markets, designer stores and eateries. The Old Biscuit Mill is a standout attraction. theoldbiscuitmill.co.za Camps Bay White sands and azure waters, plus views of Lion’s Head and the Twelve Apostles. Also, Clifton’s four beaches, aptly named One through Four, are trickier to access but impossibly beautiful.

Lion’s Head While Table Mountain gets much of the credit, plenty of locals will vouch for Lion’s Head as the premium hike. Take a picnic or time your ascent with sunset.

The Blue Train All aboard! This luxury locomotive departs Cape Town for Pretoria and offers passengers a five-star journey through spectacular scenery. bluetrain.co.za Long Street A major artery of Cape Town’s CBD, Long Street is a colourful union of shopping, restaurants, nightlife and landmarks.

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© Image courtesy of Claire Gunn Photography

Cape Town Dining at its Best Tintswalo Atlantic | Chapman’s Peak Dr Located at the base of Chapman’s Peak and overlooking Hout Bay, Tintswalo Atlantic is an incredible property with a restaurant to match. Put it on your must-do list. tintswalo.com One&Only | Dock Rd, V&A Waterfront (above left) Choose from the first and only African outpost of gastronomic icon Nobu, celebrity chef Reuben Riffel’s eponymous restaurant or alfresco dining on the hotel’s private island at Isola. oneandonlyresorts.com The Bo-Kaap Kombuis | 7 August St Sitting pretty above the Bo-Kaap rainbow, Kombuis dishes up traditional Cape Malay cuisine. The setting is simple, but the views are sweeping and the food is authentic and flavourful. bokaapkombuis.co.za La Tête | 17 Bree St Famous for its nose-to-tail philosophy, this French bistro was quick to make its mark in 2016 and has been impressing diners with unpretentious fare and knowledgeable service ever since. latete.co.za Lord Nelson Restaurant (below left) An unforgettable gastronomic experience awaits at Lord Nelson, the fine-dining option at Cape Town’s celebrated Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel. belmond.com

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travels include one particularly moving stop. The District Six Museum celebrates the once vibrant mixed-race suburb that was demolished during apartheid, its 60,000 residents forcibly removed.

En route, our Ilios Travel guide, Avril O’Connor, a bornand-bred Capetonian, pulls up beside the grand Castle of Good Hope and proudly recounts the day Nelson Mandela addressed the crowd from the adjacent City Hall, following his release from prison in 1990: “There was not even room [in the streets] for an ant. It felt like a new world. It was like doors opening everywhere for me.”

Avril was a resident of District Six. The daughter of a white father and black mother, her experience during apartheid was a harrowing one – she could not be seen in public with her father; her mother had to pretend to be the maid – yet she shares it with such grace. And, although she concedes there are “a lot of skeletons in the closet” she firmly believes in her city and its future.

The following afternoon, Avril drives us beyond Cape Town’s borders and on to our next destination, and the mood in our vehicle shifts. As the light fades, and the soft orange streetlights begin to glitter, I realise I am not looking forward to saying goodbye. To Cape Town, of course, although I feel confident I’ll return. More so, I am not looking forward to saying goodbye to Avril.

On reflection, it occurs to me that – contrary to Justin’s words – I don’t leave Cape Town as a local. Our stay was too short and the city too complex for me to assume such a label.

But those we encountered, headed by the generosity and spirit of the proud woman who led the way, certainly made me feel like a friend. And if you ask me, that’s even better.

The Details South African Airways operates daily flights to Perth with code share partner Virgin Australia from Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide and Brisbane. Connect to a South African Airways flight from Perth to Cape Town via Johannesburg. Prices start from A$2100 return, subject to terms and conditions. Visit flysaa.com.au or call 1300 435 972.

To mark their 50th anniversary, award-winning Africa travel specialist Bench Africa has launched a ‘13-day Luxury Signature Safari Special’, featuring four nights in Cape Town, three nights in Franschhoek and five nights on a luxury safari in a private game reserve near Kruger National Park. Prices start from $5250 per person, twin share – a saving of $1650 per person – including deluxe accommodations throughout, breakfast daily, tours in Cape Town, road transfers, game viewing and other extras. Internal flights are not included; conditions apply.

For more information, a copy of Bench Africa’s new 2018/19 AFRICA brochure or to book, call 1300 AFRICA (237 422) or visit benchafrica.com For further information on Cape Town and South Africa in general, visit capetown.travel and southafrica.net/au.

Opposite page: Soak in the city’s spectacular views while staying at One&Only Cape Town.

This page: More Quarters Boutique Hotel offers sophisticated apartment living in the heart of the city; while the tri-level Wine Loft makes for a jaw-dropping entry to Reuben’s at One&Only.

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Etihad Airways F l i g h t N u m b e r : E Y4 50 Ai rb u s A38 0 -8 0 0 R o u t e : Abu D hab i t o Sy d n e y C l a s s : F irst Clas s A p art m e n t s / S e a t : 3 A F l i g h t t i m e : 13 h ou rs, 4 2 m i n u t e s ( AUH -SYD) STEVE HUI

F O U N D E R O F R E W A R D P O I N T S T R A V E L C O M P A N Y , I F LY F L A T . C O M . A U

The Cabin Voted Best First Class Airline in Luxury Travel Magazine’s Gold List 2018, Etihad is revolutionising premium air travel with its First Apartments, a single-aisle design with four private and spacious suites on the left side of the aircraft and five on the right. The apartments offer forward and rear-facing configurations, featuring a large leather armchair and a separate bed measuring more than two metres in length, and there is still room to walk around after closing the privacy doors. Six of the apartments interconnect, ideal if you’re travelling with family, friends or business colleagues. Each apartment also features a compact refrigerated minibar with water and soft drinks, a vanity mirror, and full-length wardrobe to hang your clothes after changing into your complimentary inflight loungewear.

The Seat and Bed Each apartment comprises a plush leather seat plus a long leather lounge which can be converted at any time into a fully flat bed. The seat is extremely comfortable with multiple adjustments and a body-relaxing massage function. A 24-inch touchscreen TV also comes with a smaller handheld touch screen controller for channel surfing. The flight attendants will set up the bed upon request.

Padding is placed on top of the lounge as the bed is electronically unfolded, and the finished result is akin to a luxury hotel room, with a white linen doona and a thoughtful card and poem placed on the pillow. A nice touch.

The Service The service is warm, welcoming and efficient.

Each of the first-class flight attendants and

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the on-board chef introduced themselves, before settling me to my seat, explaining the features of the cabin, the seat and TV controls, introducing the menu, and even enquiring when I’d like to take a shower (more on that later). No need to wave or catch the attention of a passing steward; each cabin comes with a handy call button and a flight attendant appears within moments to attend to my requests.

The Food The in-flight chef can create pretty much any à la carte dish using an array of fresh produce and comes for a chat to determine what I’d like to eat and the time I prefer to dine. The standard choices on my route are Hokkaido scallops and tomato and ginger soup as appetisers, with chicken breast, beef tenderloin, lamb or sea bass for main course.

Beverages include Charles Heidsieck Brut and Rosé Champagne, with four excellent red and four white wine options. Indulging my passion for whiskey, I also try the Chivas Brothers’ Royal Salute 21 Year and Glenlivet Master Distillers Reserve Single Malt, both superb.

The Entertainment There are more than 140 movies and 350 popular TV shows and live channels, delivered on a touch-screen TV that swivels to a perfect position from either the seat or the bed. The WiFi speed is acceptable for email, instant messaging and Instagram.

The Onboard Lounge Located between the First Apartments and Business Studio seats is a small circular lounge that accommodates six or seven people with a large-screen TV. It’s a nice

space to relax and have a casual chat with other passengers if you get bored of being alone in your private cabin.

The Shower The shower and toilet space is slightly smaller than the First Apartment and provides a welcome opportunity to freshen up before sleeping and arrival. It’s not often you can shower at 30,000 feet – a treat in itself – although thoughts of what to do in the event of turbulence does preoccupy my mind somewhat.

The Highs Extraordinary space and privacy and comfortable TV-watching positions from both the seat and the bed were highlights, while the shower and lounge are unexpected bonuses and help to make the flight pass more quickly. Above all, it’s the small touches that wow me such as that delightful card and poem placed neatly on the white linen pillow before bedtime – simple but memorable.

Our Rating

***** The Fine Print Baggage: 50kg (32kg maximum per item).

Loyalty Program: Etihad Guest (for this flight I booked using Virgin Velocity points – Virgin Australia is a partner of Etihad Airways).

WiFi: 90MB of complimentary Wi-Fi access.

Amenities Kit: Limited edition travel bags are designed by Christian Lacroix with a luxury skincare range by Hungary’s Omorovicza.

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Sofitel Melbourne on Collins AMBASSADOR SUITE S i z e : 1 4 6 m 2 / P r i c e : F r om ab out A$ 1 2 00 pe r ni g ht / R e v i e w e d b y Jul i a B ai r d / D e t a i l s : s o f i t e l - m elbou rn e.c om .a u

The Hotel The Sofitel is an iconic institution in the fancier part of Melbourne’s CBD, known as the “Paris end” of Collins Street. It has undergone several incarnations, from the Wentworth and the Regent to being rebranded The Sofitel in 1996, as part of a shopping complex designed by legendary Chinese-American architect, I. M. Pei. Owned by AccorHotels, its heritage is French, and its style is understated prestige with a focus on arts, fine dining and unparalleled views. Since 2008, it has been known as the Sofitel Melbourne on Collins.

The Suite Were one to be a bachelor intent on seducing a love interest – or say, a spinster with the same objective (I like to call such ladies spachelors) – this 50th-floor corner suite, with its sweeping floor-to-ceiling views of a sparkling Melbourne skyline, would be perfect. It has mood lighting, a BOSE sound system, enormous plasma TV screens in both the living room and bedroom, marble bathrooms, Nespresso for morning sobriety and deluxe toiletries by Roger & Gallet Bois d’Orange. You can almost dim the lights, raise the sound, and order room service in a single motion. The dining room seats six, as do the plush couches and deep leather chairs in the living room, which is accented throughout with American oak and natural stone in cool and unobtrusive colours. The most relaxing place of all, though, is the beautifully comfortable cushioned bed from where you can peer out at the clouds.

The Locale You could not have a better location for a hotel in Melbourne’s CBD, especially if your tastes tend on the posh side. Collins Street is studded with luxury retailers and sellers of the inimitable Haigh’s Chocolate. It’s just a few minutes’ walk from some of the city’s best street art (look out for Rone and Vexta’s work splashed down side alleys and little lanes) and vintage browsing on Brunswick Street as well as fine restaurants on Flinders Lane and throughout the city grid. Fitzroy Gardens is

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a quick jaunt away, while Tullamarine Airport is a 40-minute cab ride. Parliament Station in Spring Street is a few blocks away and numerous tram stops sit right in front of the hotel’s discreet entrance. Not to mention there’s a cinema right under the hotel.

The Look and Feel There is a reason this is celebrated Australian Dame Ita Buttrose’s favourite hotel: they are both elegant and ageless. Black clad bellboys beetle about the hotel and will arrange to have your shoes shone overnight for no charge. The hotel is busy, as is the reception area, so try to avoid the lobby at peak hours.

Overall, it is sleek, historic comfort.

The Food It would be entirely possible to spend a whole weekend feasting like royals without leaving the Sofitel. From the hotel lobby, where Sofi’s Lounge swings effortlessly from hot beverages to afternoon high tea, to the Atrium Bar on level 35, where cocktails and

tasting plates are served, to the modest but opulent No. 35, a temple of glass, city lights, charming French-speaking waiters, modern food and fabulous desserts. You can even take selfies on a camera on the wall, which naturally become more and more glamorous with every martini consumed. (Breakfast is also available at No. 35 in the morning).

Those staying in the Ambassador’s Suite will also have access to the peaceful Club Lounge with high ceilings, soft round couches and more stunning views.

The Special Touches The fitness centre is clean and well-stocked with all variety of muscle-firming machines, although oddly there is no pool (and a further note – you must pay for WiFi). But the staff are discreetly prompt at responding to queries, and the airy rooms are a haven from the bustle and noise 50 floors below. To be simultaneously in the thick of a city, and feel entirely removed from it, is surely the sign of a luxury hotel’s success.

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1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge BRIDGE VIEW KING S i z e : 91 m 2 / P r i c e : From about A$680 per night / R e v i e w e d b y Robin Venturelli / D e t a i l s : 1hotels.com/brooklyn-bridge

art galleries, people come from all over to amble along its cobblestoned streets. Thanks to Brooklyn’s gentrification, there are now numerous walking areas along the waterfront including the recently opened Domino Sugar Park, designed by the company behind the highly successful High Line on Manhattan’s west side.

The Look and Feel

The Hotel While the hipsters moved in long ago, transforming Brooklyn from shabby to chic, New York City’s coolest neighbourhood has officially entered luxe territory. Opened in April 2017, 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge is an ontrend urban retreat surrounded by the ultrafashionable and historic neighbourhood of Dumbo (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass – New Yorkers love their acronyms) and set just across the East River from Manhattan. When you hear hotel industry talk of sustainability and eco-focused strategies, this LEED-certified sanctuary sets the benchmark with an array of missiondriven conservation initiatives fused with cutting-edge technology and contemporary comforts. You could say the hotel is “made in Brooklyn” as neighbourhood artists feature throughout, locally made furnishings are a star, and organic materials such as repurposed shipping pallets, reclaimed wood from the old Domino Sugar Refinery building, and glass from a Brooklyn glass blowing studio catch the eye. The views of the Manhattan skyline from the rooftop pool and bar area are amazing while vistas from your room with the famous Brooklyn and

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The hotel has a chic industrial yet natural look with inviting reclaimed wood, artefacts, rusted steel, a mood-lifting living wall of plants and polished cement combining for a striking lobby. Plenty of communal seating and wooden tables with comfortable leather chairs and lounges entice guests to stick around. There are no keys or plastic room cards here, access to your room is with a thin wooden “coin” touched at your door.

Manhattan bridges and the Statue of Liberty in the distance are unbeatable.

The Room This 194-room hotel never feels crowded with large yet cosy communal spaces. The guest rooms and suites are inspired by the urban waterfront and designed with nature in mind. Natural textures of wood, linen and leather adorn the stylish accommodations with plenty of eco-conscious touches such as boxes for recyclables and filtered water on all taps, including the handy bedside tap for convenient rehydration. If so inclined, there is a sand timer in the bathroom, so you don’t linger too long under the large rain shower head. My Bridge View King room is very comfortable with floor-to-ceiling windows (that actually open), a comfy mattress from eco-brand Keetsa with 100 percent organic cotton bedding, custom natural bath products and a minibar of curated delicacies.

The Locale More a neighbourhood vibe than Manhattan’s frenetic city buzz, Dumbo is a destination in itself. Brimming with cafés and restaurants plus a cool bar scene along with shops and

The Food The Osprey features modern American comfort food for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. Neighbors Café is a casual space offering local Brooklyn fare for breakfast and later. Room service is available 24 hours per day. On the roof at Brooklyn Heights Social Club, guests can enjoy signature cocktails, small appetisers and those unbelievable bridge and skyline views. If you want to venture outside the hotel, SUGARCANE raw bar grill, a short walk along the riverfront, serves up oysters, clams and all things seafood among other options. Sitting in the shadow of the Manhattan Bridge, it’s a perfect spot for a late afternoon cocktail and alfresco dinner.

The Special Touches A Tesla car service can take guests anywhere within a five-kilometre radius. If it’s not too busy, it might get you a ride across the bridge into Manhattan, but otherwise it’s a fantastic experience that can deliver you to almost anywhere in Brooklyn. There is also a lobby farm stand with seasonal produce on certain days. The hotel is pet friendly and in-room WiFi is complimentary.

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d b y Robin Venturelli / D e t a i l s : 1hotels.com/brooklyn-bridge

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vibe than Manhattan’s mbo is a destination in afés and restaurants ong with shops and

art galleries, people come from all over to amble along its cobblestoned streets. Thanks to Brooklyn’s gentrification, there are now numerous walking areas along the waterfront including the recently opened Domino Sugar Park, designed by the company behind the highly successful High Line on Manhattan’s west side.

The Look and Feel The hotel has a chic industrial yet natural look with inviting reclaimed wood, artefacts, rusted steel, a mood-lifting living wall of plants and polished cement combining for a striking lobby. Plenty of communal seating and wooden tables with comfortable leather chairs and lounges entice guests to stick around. There are no keys or plastic room cards here, access to your room is with a thin wooden “coin” touched at your door.

The Food The Osprey features modern American comfort food for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. Neighbors Café is a casual space offering local Brooklyn fare for breakfast and later. Room service is available 24 hours per day. On the roof at Brooklyn Heights Social Club, guests can enjoy signature cocktails, small appetisers and those unbelievable bridge and skyline views. If you want to venture outside the hotel, SUGARCANE raw bar grill, a short walk along the riverfront, serves up oysters, clams and all things seafood among other options. Sitting in the shadow of the Manhattan Bridge, it’s a perfect spot for a late afternoon cocktail and alfresco dinner.

The Special Touches A Tesla car service can take guests anywhere within a five-kilometre radius. If it’s not too busy, it might get you a ride across the bridge into Manhattan, but otherwise it’s a fantastic experience that can deliver you to almost anywhere in Brooklyn. There is also a lobby farm stand with seasonal produce on certain days. The hotel is pet friendly and in-room WiFi is complimentary.

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Andaz Singapore STUDIO SUITE Size: 76 m 2 / Price: From about A$412 per night / Reviewed by Richard Bunting / Details: singapore.andaz.hyatt.com

The Hotel It might be a small island city-state, but Singapore is also a thriving mix of cultures, cuisines and activity. And the Andaz Singapore, which opened last November, puts you right in the thick of the action. This is the 17th Andaz globally, but the first in Southeast Asia. Andaz Hotels by Hyatt’s philosophy is to immerse their guests in the local culture with inspiring experiences and Andaz Singapore does just that. It is housed in the newly developed DUO, a striking pair of concave skyscrapers designed by internationally acclaimed architect Ole Scheeren. Its 342 guestrooms and suites feature floor-to-ceiling windows for premium views of the city.

The Locale The hotel is located a short walk from Marina Bay and just minutes from two of Singapore’s most interesting cultural districts: Little India and Bras Basah Bugis. Both districts are filled with atmospheric alleyways, street eats and

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unique retailers allowing you to absorb the cultural diversity in Singapore.

The Look And Feel Designed by one of the world’s most sought-after hotel designers, Andre Fu, the hotel has a modern chic feel to it. The lobby on level 25 is welcoming, filled with natural light and home to the Andaz Lounge where you can enjoy complimentary drinks and nibbles each evening.

On entering my Studio Suite, I’m impressed by the spacious bedroom, comfortable lounge, supersized bathroom and large walk-in wardrobe. At 76 square metres you have space to relax, spread out and enjoy the sweeping city views. The highlights for me are the bed and the bathroom. The mattress on the king size bed is the perfect firmness with easy access power and USB points on the walls above the bedside tables while the bathroom features dual sinks and a sleek-tiled and oversized shower and bath.

The Food Andaz Singapore has seven restaurants, each with its own story. The highlight, Mr Stork, is located on the rooftop where diners feast in a teepee in a beautiful garden setting with spectacular views. On level 25 the hotel has created its own street eats experience, Alley on 25, where you have the choice of five uniquely themed restaurants. We eat at the Japanese Plancha’Lah, a teppanyaki restaurant that doesn’t disappoint. The Wild Mushroom en Papillote is a must.

The Special Touches A stay here isn’t complete without a swim in the Andaz infinity pool, which offers stunning views across Singapore and out to the Singapore Strait. A welcome feature of the hotel is the change room. Located on the 26th floor and accessed from the pool deck, the change room is available to guests after they have checked out, allowing them to shower and freshen up for a late flight.

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Beijing Sideshow S U S A N S K E L LY T A K E S T O T H E H I L L S – A N D A N A L M O S T D E S E R T E D S E C T I O N O F T H E G R E AT WA L L O F C H I N A – I N A M O T O R C YC L E S I D E C A R THE VIEW ATOP THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA IS ALMOST BIBLICAL. It’s a vast showcase of nature at full-throttle, accessorised with dancing butterflies, glossy black crows, flies as big as locusts, designer centipedes and scuttling lizards with coats like desert dot-paintings.

The wall itself, snaking like an embroidered frill along the mountaintops, is awesome, a monument to the strategies and human endeavour that kept out marauding Mongolians for centuries. The acoustics: blissful silence punctuated by rustling leaves and the alto buzz of insects.

We’re 70 kilometres north of Beijing, a city of many layers.

Daunting at first with its imposing Tiananmen Square, Forbidden City, wide traffic-choked streets and air thick with smog, the Chinese capital does a slow striptease to reveal a labyrinthine underground of fashion and food malls, ancient hutongs, the vibrant 798 Art Zone, cool nightlife and even a burgeoning craft beer culture.

But the authentic Beijing experience can be as much about getting out of the city as navigating within it.

One of the most unique exit strategies is in the sidecar of a Chang Jiang 750, a Chinese copy of the Russian M72, which itself is a Cold War-era clone of a 1930s BMW R71.

Feel the wind in your hair and occasionally an exfoliating spray of gravel in your face as this roaring, farting khaki beast of a bike weaves through Beijing’s morning traffic, looking for an escape route that will lead north through villages, poplar-lined backroads and green countryside to the Great Wall of China.

It’s one of a fleet of about 20 owned by Gael Thoreau, who arrived from France 19 years ago to do an internship with a garment manufacturer.

He became passionate about his adopted city and was keen to share the love. He established Beijing Sideways in 2007 and does one- and two-day trips to the Great Wall and beyond as well as bespoke rides that take in hutongs, the iconic sights, nightlife, art and architecture.

My Chang Jiang’s “pilot” is Chris Limbrunner, a German journalist who has lived in Beijing for several years.

After 30 minutes in the sidecar, breathing in the heady scent of leather and petrol, you accept you probably won’t die and start looking beyond the oncoming traffic.

Street level is full of unexpected tableaux – median strips planted with hardy red and yellow roses, and the street theatre of families riding pillion, office girls freshening make-up in their scooter mirrors, and

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drivers of shiny new expensive cars turning bluff into an art form.

First stop is the village of Xingshouzhen, about 40 kilometres out of town, for fresh baguettes from a Vietnamese bakery and bananas from a roadside stall. And next thing you know, the city has been swapped for a countryside full of chestnut trees where villagers and farmers are busy collecting and bundling firewood, selling honey, and oxygenating water for their fish farms.

Our destination, an hour or so later, is Zhuangdaokou Village, in the Huairou District. Its claim to fame are dragon and phoenix pines that are more than 12 metres tall and 300 years old.

We will be spending the next couple of hours walking the stone and brick Zhuangdaokou section of the Great Wall (built of varying materials in many sections during many dynasties).

The only humans we spot the whole day are three hikers descending a daunting incline from the opposite direction – on their bottoms. Nowhere on this section of the wall are the throngs, stalls, cable cars, bragging rights T-shirts or certificates of achievement – nor the guard rails.

It’s steep and it’s tough-going for anyone not really fit. The steps are uneven, there’s gravel underfoot in places, and steep sections of pavers where there’s nothing to hold onto.

Some parts are restored, others not, and you need to be careful. Every time you think you’re as high as you can go, you look up and there’s another infinity of steps. Chris urges, “Stop as often as you like. Believe me, it’ll be worth it.”

And it is. Even if knees, thighs and lungs beg to differ. At a crumbling, long-abandoned soldiers’ station is the most sensational view of the Xishuiyu Reservoir sparkling in the valley below and mile upon mile of marching wall.

A picnic awaits. A rocky ledge is set by Chris with cheese, ham, tomatoes, lettuce, hummus, poached chicken and dill pesto, and wine if you want it. After that, it’s the downhill step class which wakes up a whole new set of muscles. By now, though, it’s an exercise in smug.

The Details Beijing Sideways’ One Day Wild Great Wall Tour costs about $520.

Pick up from your hotel is 9.30am; return around 7.30pm. For bookings, call +86 139 1103 4748 or visit beijingsideways.com.

© Photographs courtesy of Beijing Sideways and by Susan Skelly

Escape Beijing’s smog and traffic in a motorcycle sidecar and head for the peace and grandeur of the Great Wall.

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