Luxury Travel Magazine - Issue 74

ISSUE 74 / WINTER 2018 / A$17.95

9 771443 307001 >

ISSN 1443-3079

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Gold List 2018 Our 14th Annual Readers’ Choice Awards

THE WORLD ’S BEST LUXURY HOTELS, RESORTS, VILLAS, WELLNESS RETREATS, AIRLINES, CRUISE SHIPS, COUNTRIES, CITIES, SKI RESORTS, TRAVEL AGENTS AND MUCH MORE

L I V E T H E MOM E N T oneandonlywolganvalley.com

Four Seasons Bora Bora

LUX Grand Gaube, Mauritius

Amangiri, Utah

Copehagen, Denmark

W I N T E R 2 018 / L T

Contents 43 Sugar Beach, St Lucia

The Gold List 2018 O U R 14 T H A N N U A L R E A D E R S’ C H O I C E AWA R D S

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Life is Grand WELCOME TO THE NEW LUX GRAND GAUBE, MAURITIUS

126 Le Soleal, Ponant

The Sweet Spot BETWEEN THE PITONS AT ST LUCIA’S SUGAR BEACH

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Bon Voyage PONANT MASTERS THE ART OF FRENCH LUXURY CRUISING

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American Beauty AMANGIRI IS A WINDOW TO AN ANCIENT DESERT LANDSCAPE

150

So Cosy, So Cool COPENHAGEN FUSES CLASSIC AND MODERN DANISH DESIGN 9

L T / W I N T E R 2 018

In This Issue Postcard 22

J U M E I R A H V I T TAV E L I , M A L D I V E S

Arrivals Lounge 25

THE NEW SIX SENSES FIJI

Ticket to Ride 93

M O U N TA I N B I K I N G I N TAS M A N I A

The Cradle will Rock 98

A WA L K O N T H E W I L D S I D E

Greener Pastures 70

V I C TO R I A’S N E W-LO O K L I N D E N D E R RY

The Royal Treatment 81

A L U X E B OAT C H A R T E R I N I N D O N E S I A

A + Experience 102

SUMMER IN SWITZERLAND

Orange is the New Black 110

Queenstown with a Capital QT 8 6

N E W Z E A L A N D ’S L AT E ST D E S I G N H OT E L

London to a Tea 90

N SW ’S F O O D A N D W I N E C A P I TA L

Off the Beaten Track 16 8

A MAGIC CARPET RIDE IN TURKEY

A S P E C I A L A F T E R N O O N AT T H E R I T Z

In Every Issue O N T H E W E B 12 / F R O M T H E E D I T O R 14 / W H A T T O P A C K 2 6 L U X U R Y T R A V E L N E W S 2 8 / A I R L I N E R E V I E W 16 0 / H O T E L R E V I E W S 16 2 10

FORECAST:ESCAPE

The weather is always perfect at Crown Hotels.

Explore our new season packages. www.crownhotels.com.au

LT / D I G I TA L

A World of Luxury Travel on the Go V I S I T LU X U RY T R AV E L M AG.CO M.AU F O R U P-TO-T H E-M I N U T E N E W S A N D F E A T U R E S O N Y O U R D E S K T O P, T A B L E T O R M O B I L E

Swiss Indulgence One of the best ways to get to know a new destination is through its food and wine and with Switzerland being home to the highest density of Michelin-starred restaurants in the world, it’s a must-visit for gourmet experiences that will linger in the mind long after you return home.

Read more at luxurytravelmag.com.au/article/switzerlands-best-restaurants

Paradise Found

Thinking Scandi

La Dolce Vita

When it comes to the utopic island country of Mauritius, people immediately think of pictureperfect beaches, and yet a second paradise of lush jungle, waterfalls, and vibrant villages await those who venture farther afield. Read our 10 Reasons to Visit Mauritius that Don’t Include the Beach at luxurytravelmag.com.au/ article/10-reasons-visit-mauritius

With its show-stealing Scandinavian design and dining scene, as well as a 100-kilometre shoreline and more than 300 islands, Helsinki is a heavy hitter in the Nordic tourism belt.

Trying reindeer carpaccio and visiting Design District are just the beginning in our Luxury Guide to Helsinki. luxurytravelmag.com.au/ article/a-luxury-guide-to-helsinki

First it was Tuscany, then it was Amalfi and Cinque Terre. Now, Puglia is on the lips of every luxury traveller looking for their next taste of the Italian sweet life. Unravel the region’s history, culture and food in our fiveday sojourn in the stiletto of Italy’s boot. luxurytravelmag.com.au/article /five-days-in-puglia

C ON N E C T WITH U S:

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LT / F R O M T H E E D I TO R

A New Era Begins IF YOU’RE FEELING A SENSE of déjà vu while reading these words you have good reason. Some 12 years after leaving Luxury Travel to embark on a new life in America, I’m very happily back home in Sydney and even more excited to be back at the helm of Australia’s leading luxury travel magazine. And let me tell you, there’s a lot going on! A new and talented editorial, design and marketing team; a new-look print magazine which I hope you will love as much as I do, and a redesigned website informing readers about remarkable luxury travel experiences around the world – and around the clock. Not to mention our dynamic new digital offering, Luxury Exclusives, providing savvy travellers with inspiration and exclusive access to global luxury travel experiences and packages. All these initiatives are perfectly timed to complement our 14th annual Gold List (see page 43), Australia’s only reader-voted, and most respected, luxury travel awards. From the many thousands of entries, this year’s Gold List proves once again that Australians are among the world’s greatest travellers and that Australia is a world-class destination in its own right. Our team will be working hard to bring you the very best in luxury travel in the coming months and years, and I’m looking forward to this journey together.

A N D R E W CO N WAY EDITOR 14

Dress your watch Join the discussion #DressYourWatch

shine collection For additional information please contact (02) 9363 1088 | info@avstev.com.au

LT / C O N T R I B U TO R S

SUE WALL ACE G re e ne r Past u re s Pa g e 70

Sue writes about the finer things in life and travel and found them in abundance at the newly redesigned retreat Lindenderry at Red Hill on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula.

“I was captivated by its enchanting gardens, sleek rooms and gourmet dining,” she says.

Gary Allen Managing Director gary@luxurytravelmedia.com.au Richard Bunting General Manager & Managing Editor t: +61 424 128 806 E: rbunting@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

CAROLYN BEASLEY The Royal Tre at me nt

Andrew Conway Editor aconway@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

Pa g e 81

Originally a marine biologist, Singaporebased freelance writer Carolyn realized her bucket list dream of exploring Indonesia’s extraordinary Raja Ampat islands on board the luxury charter boat Rascal. “Experiencing this natural wonderland with your closest friends is absolute bliss,” she says.

F R E YA H E R R I N G L i f e i s G rand As a contributor to Condé Nast Traveller and Vogue Living, Freya often finds herself in remarkable places. Read about her recent stay at the new LUX Grand Gaube in Mauritius and its colonial-modern resort interiors by leading South African designer Kelly Hoppen.

SUSAN GOUGH HENLY Pa g e 134

Susan’s byline has appeared in the New York Times, Travel & Leisure and The Guardian among others. She divides her time between a beach house in Sydney’s Avalon and a farmhouse in Bordeaux from which she joined Ponant’s 30th anniversary gourmet cruise from Lisbon to Brittany.

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Kate Symons Copy Editor Michael Gebicki Editor at Large wordplay@optusnet.com.au

Michelle Armour Marketing Manager marmour@luxurytravelmedia.com.au Lucie Malone & Malin Boemke Editorial Assistants Scott & Robin Venturelli Directors

C o ver Il l u s tra ti o n David Rees Cronulla Folk instagram: @cronullafolk m: 0424176291 for enquiries

Bon Voyage

@LUXURYTRAVELAU

Madelin Tomelty Digital Editor mtomelty@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

Kelly Allen Health & Wellness Editor kallen@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

Pa g e 118

C ON N E C T WITH U S:

Kyle Sansbury Art Director design@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

@LUXURYTRAVELAU

Published by: Magnesium Media ABN 86 066 598 427 Level 11, 66 Clarence Street, Sydney NSW 2000 Australia Tel: +61 2 8705 5463 Distribution and Subscription enquiries: AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND Luxury Travel magazine T: +61 2 8705 5463 E: subscriptions@luxurytravelmedia.com.au W: luxurytravelmedia.com.au/subscribe

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ABSOLUTE BEACHFRONT Alamanda at Palm Cove is one of the only places in Far North Queensland to offer direct beach access, as well as luxurious beachside suites, the critically acclaimed Nu Nu restaurant and our multi-award winning day spa. And if that’s not enough, we also cater for families with extra-large apartments, a family pool zone and games room.

lancemore.com.au/alamanda

Book at palmcove@alamandapalmcove.com.au or call 07 4055 3000

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READER TOUR

The Southern Drift Discover 100% New Zealand on this 12-Day Inspiring Journey through the bountiful natural treasures of the South Island.

From the still waters of Milford Sound and snowcapped peaks of the Southern Alps, to rolling hills and grassy plains of Central Otago, delve into the exquisite beauty of a land that has remained unchanged for millennia.

DAY 1: Welcome to Christchurch Your New Zealand adventure begins in Christchurch, whose lush green surrounds have earned it the nickname, the Garden City. Spend the afternoon at leisure before joining your Travel Director and fellow travellers for a welcome drink and dinner to kick-off your holiday of a lifetime•Crowne Plaza, Christchurch•Dinner with wine DAY 2: CHRISTCHURCH – PUNAKAIKI: Traverse the Canterbury Plains and snow-capped Southern Alps on board the TranzAlpine, renowned as one of the world’s most scenic rail journeys. The gentle chug-chug in extraordinary surrounds gives way to more epic scenery as you board the coach at Arthur’s Pass and travel to Punakaiki to see the limestone Pancake Rocks and Blowholes.

Your home tonight is in an eco-friendly resort on the waterfront•Punakaiki Resort, Punakaiki•Full buffet breakfast, dinner with wine DAY 3: PUNAKAIKI – FRANZ JOSEF: A leisurely start to the day arriving in the town of Hokitika where you’ll enjoy a jewellery demonstration by a local greenstone (jade) carver. Then visit the gold-mining centre of Ross. Today’s final stop, en route to your eco-friendly retreat in the bush, is the luminous icy depths of the Franz Josef Glacier. Spend the night surrounded by the pristine wilderness and in the warm embrace of the local geothermal hot pools•Te Waonui Forest Retreat, Franz Josef•Full buffet breakfast, dinner with wine DAY 4: FRANZ JOSEF – QUEENSTOWN: Spend the morning contemplating the exquisite setting or take to the air on a scenic flight over this spectacular glacier (own expense). Later, meander through the Haast Pass and along the pebble-laden shores of Lakes Wanaka and Hawea, stopping in Makarora and the historic gold-mining village of Arrowtown. The adventure capital of Queenstown awaits and you’ll have an opportunity to explore it during an orientation tour before settling in at your hotel•Crowne Plaza, Queenstown, 3 nights•Full buffet breakfast, dinner with wine DAY 5: QUEENSTOWN FREE TIME: Calling all thrill seekers! Today’s the day to earn your adventurer stripes braving some of Queenstown’s most daring activities. Or indulge your more serene side with a round of golf or relaxing spa treatment. This evening, enjoy a memorable Highlight Dinner at one of Queenstown’s fine dining restaurants•Full buffet breakfast, highlight dinner DAY 6: QUEENSTOWN FREE TIME: Another daring day awaits in New Zealand’s adrenalin capital. Consider a day indulging in the region’s vintages at the Gibbston Valley Winery, or board a jet boat for an exhilarating ride down the mighty Shotover River•Full buffet breakfast DAY 7: QUEENSTOWN – MILFORD SOUND: Skirting the shores of Lake Wakatipu southwards, venture to Te Anau and then deep within the Fiordland National Park. Driving through the hand-hewn Homer Tunnel and emerge into a

photographer’s paradise where glaciers and peaks give way to the unexpected beauty of Mirror Lake. Stop to explore the wonder of the Chasm Walk before arriving at Milford Sound Lodge, with its exquisite views of the Cleddau Valley•Milford Sound Lodge, 2 nights•Full buffet breakfast, dinner with wine DAY 8: MILFORD SOUND: Wake up to the startling beauty of Milford Sound and board the Southern Discoveries vessel for a half day exploration of Milford Sound. Cruise out to the Tasman sea looking for wildlife along the way, and take the opportunity to go sea kayaking in Harrisons Cove. This afternoon learn more about Fiordland National Park with an informative talk by a local expert•Full buffet breakfast, lunch, dinner with wine DAY 9: MILFORD SOUND - WEDDERBURN: This morning, embark on a journey from the rainforests of Fiordland to the hills of Central Otago, travelling through Te Anau and the rolling hill country of Southland to the dry and arid region of Central Otago. Arriving into Wedderburn you’ll head out to a high country farm to learn about life on the plains. Finish the day with dinner at the local pub•Wedderburn Cottages, Wedderburn•Full buffet breakfast, dinner with wine DAY 10: WEDDERBURN – MT. COOK: Travel to the town of Naseby to learn the history of this gold mining town. Maybe you’ll try your hand at the ancient sport of curling! From here it’s on towards the spectacular scenery of the Southern Alps and then along the shores of Lake Pukaki before arriving in Aoraki Mount Cook National Park. Enjoy dinner against the spectacular backdrop of the highest mountain in the Southern Hemisphere.

The Hermitage, Mount Cook•Full buffet breakfast, dinner with wine DAY 11: MT. COOK – CHRISTCHURCH: Discover the shores of Lake Tekapo and the Church of the Good Shepherd today, before crossing the Canterbury Plains and arriving in Christchurch this afternoon. Embark on an in-depth sightseeing tour of the city to learn about its rebirth after the 2011 earthquake•Crowne Plaza, Christchurch•Full buffet breakfast DAY 12: FAREWELL FROM CHRISTCHURCH: It’s time to say a fond farewell to your fellow travellers as your Inspiring Journey comes to an end today.

Full buffet breakfast

TRAVEL DATES

PRICES

2018 12 November – 23 November 19 November – 30 November 10 December – 21 December 17 December – 28 December

Adult twin Share: AU$6,595 pp Single: From AU$8,745 pp Child: From AU6,595 pp

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND TO ENQUIRE ABOUT THIS READER OFFER PLEASE VISIT:

ENQUIRE NOW!

1300 228 546 Or visit the website URL below For your exclusive reader offer

Quintessential reasons to choose Inspiring Journeys 1 Tailored Luxury Holidays: Whether it’s visiting a museum, dining at

an exclusive restaurant or discovering hidden gems, we will help you tailor your journey to get the most out of every destination, based on what your trip means to you.

2 Superb Service: From boutique accommodation to luxury coaches and exclusive experiences; all aspects of an Inspiring Journey have been carefully chosen to provide you with superior treatment.

3 Smaller Groups : With a maximum of only 20 people per journey you will enjoy a more exclusive and intimate experience, including access to unique locations that can’t be reached by larger groups.

4 Immersive Experiences: We offer a range of hands-on and authentic experiences that bring to life the history and culture of each destination, helping you to create a lifetime of memories.

5 Globally Sustainable: Partnering with the TreadRight Foundation, we place conservation and responsible tourism at the heart of every trip.

6 Our People: Your passionate Travel Director and/or Driver Guide will be with you all the way, always ready to share in-depth local knowledge and take care of all the finer details – so you don’t have to.

WWW.INSPIRINGJOURNEYS.COM/LUXURY TRAVELMAGAZINE

LT / P O STC A R D

Silence is Golden…

It’s an oasis of peace and serenity like no other – a chic cabana swathed in billowing cotton, a gourmet breakfast with chilled champagne, powder-soft sand under foot, and the warm waters of the Indian Ocean lapping at your toes. As the sky turns from rose pink to pale yellow and finally a cerulean blue, life at Jumeirah Vittaveli – an alluring island retreat on South Malé Atoll in the Maldives – is looking very good indeed. Comprising 89 villas and suites with private pools and idyllic ocean, beach or lagoon views, an array of restaurants, bars, spa treatments and water sports, Jumeirah Vittaveli is the essence of luxury travel. The resort is a finalist in our 14th annual Gold List – Australia’s only reader-voted luxury travel awards (see page 43) – and we can’t think of a better way to launch this special edition. jumeirah.com A N D R E W CO N WAY

EDITOR

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We have designed a bespoke package of Langham highlights for one ultimate ‘Luxury Escape’. Perfect for a business traveller or those travelling for leisure.

The package includes 15% off best available rate with complimentary upgrade, Langham Club privileges including deluxe continental breakfast, all-day tea, coffee and pastries, traditional afternoon tea, pre-dinner drinks and hors d’oeuvres, valet parking and take home gift of our mini signature gingerflower scent.

Packages from $328 per night.

1 Southgate Avenue, Southbank, Victoria T (613) 8696 8888 langhamhotels.com/melbourne The Langham, Melbourne

A R R I V A LS LO U N G E / LT

A Sixth Sense SIX SENSES FANS REJOICE. The acclaimed luxury hotel, resort and spa brand is one step closer to Australia with the recent opening of Six Senses Fiji, a new tropical hideaway on Malolo Island. Located on a secluded bay and beach, the resort offers 24 one- and two-bedroom pool villas – with decks and outdoor showers – gourmet dining and a signature Six Senses Spa. Ten additional private residences deliver an even more exclusive experience for groups of friends or families.

The new resort stays true to Six Senses founder Sonu Shivdasani’s commitment to sustainability by being 100 per cent solar powered, although its ever-smiling Fijian hosts could light up the entire island on their own. sixsenses.com

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LT / W H AT T O PA C K

GOOD AS GOLD E L E VAT E YO U R T R AV E L AC C E SS O R I E S WITH THE SLEEK MIDAS TOUCH

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Tod’s $2145. tods.com

Marc Jacobs $300. dfs.com/sydney

Victoria Beckham $625. dfs.com/sydney

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Tod’s $675. tods.com

Bang & Olufsen $449. beoplay.com/E8

Chanel $139. dfs.com/sydney

Gommino Bag Micro

Sneakers

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Rope Aviator Sunglasses

Beoplay E8 Wireless Earphones

Loop Aviator Sunglasses

Coco Noir Eau de Parfum 50ml

LUCY JACKSON keeps the world moving

“The demand in luxury travel out of the APAC region is driving our tailormade business at a fast pace. In order to fine tune our product portfolio, Lightfoot Travel’s presence at ILTM Asia Pacific is the cornerstone to our product proposition for the year, particularly being based in Asia.”

Lucy Jackson Walsh, Co-founder & Director Lightfoot Travel (HK) Ltd

www.iltm.com/asiapacific

Singapore, 21st - 24th May 2018 #keeptheworldmoving

LT / T RAV E L N E WS

The Gantry at Pier One Sydney Harbour Welcomes New Head Chef Pier One Sydney Harbour has appointed Thom Gorringe as head chef of The Gantry Restaurant & Bar, ensuring guests of the historic harbourside hotel an outstanding culinary experience. Gorringe will lead a brigade of passionate young chefs, all under 30, who share his passion for authentic Australian ingredients. Offering a fully inclusive

dining experience, The Gantry Restaurant showcases a traditional à la carte menu alongside a six-course degustation menu, which is also available in vegetarian and vegan options. For the health-conscious and those with dietary requirements, all dishes on the menu are gluten-free. pieronesydneyharbour.com.au

Onefinestay Enters the Australian Market Move over, Airbnb. AccorHotels is entering the burgeoning luxury private home rental brand with onefinestay, launching with more than 10,000 curated homes in more than 200 global destinations – 22 of which are in Sydney and more in Melbourne, Noosa and New Zealand to follow. Guests are ensured professional round-the-clock service, a personal greeting on arrival, hotel-quality linens and tailored experiences.

For homeowners, onefinestay looks after each home with care and attention, this includes vetting guests and cleaning services.

Accor’s Le Club loyalty members can also earn points and access exclusive concierge services. The first all-pool villa resort will launch soon on the Greek island of Mykonos. onefinestay.com 28

Southern Ocean Lodge Turns Ten Hard to believe it’s a decade since Southern Ocean Lodge welcomed its first guest, but South Australia’s iconic luxury retreat celebrates its 10th birthday this year. To mark the milestone, the creators and owners of Bailllie Lodges, James and Hayley Baillie, have released a new book – A Celebration of Timeless Design: From Dream to Reality – featuring wonderful images as well as interviews with and tributes from the architects, designers, lodge managers and Kangaroo Island providores who helped bring the awardwinning lodge to life. The book is available for purchase in the Southern Ocean Lodge boutique. southernoceanlodge.com.au

Etihad Launches Inflight Loungewear Why arrive looking like a slept-in airline blanket when you can step off a transcontinental flight looking like George and Amal Clooney? Etihad has launched a new inflight loungewear collection – exclusive to its First Class passengers and guests staying in The Residence on board the airline’s Airbus A380 fleet – that’s taking off on a very different kind of fashion runway. Rising star Emirati design firm A Friend of Mine by Xpose has created a comfortable, functional, high-quality and wearable collection for relaxing and sleeping inflight, but also stylish enough to be worn outdoors or matched with other clothing and accessories.

Music to Anna Wintour’s ears. etihad.com

InterContinental Bali’s Gourmet Gem InterContinental Bali Resort will soon have a new jewel in its crown with the unveiling of its signature Taman Gita restaurant. The popular dining venue has been reimagined as a cool and contemporary space with a soaring ceiling, monumental pillars and breezy alfresco terrace. Oversize entrance doors will open to a sleek and stylish interior accented with Balinese ornaments. Menus will feature traditional Indonesian dishes, à la carte lunch and dinner menus and twice-weekly feasts. bali.intercontinental.com 29

LT / T RAV E L N E WS

Luke Nguyen Serves Up the Best of Vietnamese Cuisine at 35,000 Feet Best-selling author and TV host Luke Nguyen has been appointed Global Cuisine Ambassador for Vietnam Airlines in a bid to further promote Vietnamese culture and cuisine to the world. The three-year contract will see Nguyen develop eight of his own culinary creations that will be introduced on the Business Class menus of all flights departing Australia to Vietnam, as well as input into the current offering of 50 dishes served globally by the airline. Creating a dish that tastes good in the air and appeals to people from both countries is no mean feat according to Nguyen, who is currently looking for new creative ideas to spice his dishes. “Menu planning in the sky is very complex,” says Nguyen. “We lose about 15 to 20 per cent of our taste at 35,000 feet, and finding a food offering that has authentic Vietnamese flavours to suit different passengers isn’t easy.

I’m looking forward to the challenge.” vietnamairlines.com

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Botanica Brings a Stylish Farm-to-Fork Concept to Sydney's Eastern Suburbs

A New Hyatt Centric Design Hotel to Open in the Heart of Melbourne

Sydney has welcomed its newest food, wellness and lifestyle destination, The Botanica Vaucluse, set in a leafy enclave in the city’s upscale Eastern Suburbs. An inventive farm-to-fork restaurant, neighbouring spa and soon-to-open café – each inspired by The Botanica’s 26-hectare farm in Jamberoo Valley, two hours south of Sydney – is committed to supporting local growers and providores, offering an array of creative menus, seasonal ingredients, café goodies and spa treatments. It’s located at 2 Laguna Street, Vaucluse. thebotanicavaucluse.com.au

Hyatt Hotels Corporation has joined forces with Melbourne developer Little Projects to design a new Hyatt Centric hotel in the city’s central business district. Slated to open in 2020, the hotel will boast a prime location on Downie Street, minutes from Melbourne’s Docklands and Southbank precincts, and will feature 280 rooms and suites, a restaurant and a rooftop bar with panoramic views of the city skyline. The new design hotel will join 20 Hyatt Centric hotels worldwide, including two opening soon in Santiago, Chile and Lima, Peru. hyattcentric.com

Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley Hosts Gourmet Winter Celebrations Winter is the time to cosy up in front of a crackling log fire with good food and wine, and there’s no better place than Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley in the heart of the Blue Mountains. This spectacular luxury wilderness retreat is planning four fascinating winemakers’ dinners from June to August, as well as its annual Winter Yulefest celebration, which transforms

the resort into a festive wonderland. Stay in a luxe Heritage Villa with pool and enjoy breakfast, lunch and gourmet dinner daily with an array of additional experiences from bonfires to star-gazing and wine and cheese tastings from $2175 per villa, per evening for two guests (a minimum two-night stay applies). For bookings and more details ,oneandonlyresorts.com

Emirates Uncorks a Vintage Wine Cellar Experience to its First Class Emirates’ First Class is flying even higher with the launch of its new Emirates Vintage Collection, a selection of outstanding French wines from the airline’s own cellar in Burgundy which have been stored for up to 15 years. The fine wines being featured this year are Château Cheval Blanc 2004, Château Haut Brion 2004, Château Mouton Rothschild 2001 and Château Margaux 1998, but only on select routes and for a limited time. Australians travelling from each of Emirates’ five Australian destinations between June and September will be treated to a taste of the world-class Margaux, a vintage drop to be savoured high above the clouds. emirates.com 31

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Chiva-Som Unveils New-Look Rooms Asia’s first dedicated wellness resort, Chiva-Som, is heralding a new era in good health with the launch of 17 fully renovated luxury Thai Pavilion rooms and suites in November this year. The new-look accommodations are a chic fusion of classic and contemporary Thai design, featuring local teak, silk and bamboo, and are part of a resort-wide enhancement program culminating in 2019. The resort will close for six months (between now and October 31) and the same again next year for the renovation work, but will no doubt reclaim its place as one of the world’s finest wellness destinations. chivasom.com

Mansion Hotel & Spa’s Stylish Lounge Bar is Melbourne’s Best-Kept Secret Luxury boutique hotel group, Lancemore, has unveiled a stylish new bar, Mary’s Secret, at Mansion Hotel & Spa at Werribee Park, a 20-minute drive from Melbourne. The 1920s terrace, previously closed to the public, has been transformed into an opulent lounge overlooking the historic courtyard by leading styling group LENZO. Visitors who knock on the door of the historic Chirnside Mansion between 5.30pm and 6.30pm on Friday and Saturday nights between May 25 and June 16 will be led on an immersive theatrical tour of the 32

lavish home preserved in time to a secret door on the upper level to enter Mary’s Secret. Named after Mary Chirnside, wife of Andrew who co-built the stunning Italianate-style bluestone mansion with his brother almost a century ago, the new lounge oozes timeless elegance and glorious architecture, and offers bespoke cocktails by The Everleigh Bottling Co., free flowing G.H. Mumm Champagne and delicious canapés. We really wanted to show you a sneak preview but it’s, well, a secret. lancemore.com.au

Ski-out Spa-in #INLOVEWITHSWITZERLAND

After an active day on the slopes, nothing beats relaxing in warm water and steam to soothe body and soul. Whether the outdoor pool, private spa or sauna with a view, in Switzerland you can find some of the best wellness oases, each just a few steps from the piste. MySwitzerland.com/winter

Luxury travel has evolved to favour experience-led holidays. Here, the Kazakh Eagle Hunters of Western Mongolia are not your average tourist attraction.

T R E N D S / LT

New Horizons M OV E OV E R , H OT E L S U I T E S . TO D AY ’S L U X U RY T R AV E L L E R I S S E E K I N G O U T M U C H M O R E T H A N F I V E-STA R ACCOMMODATION, WRITES MICHAEL GEBICKI

LT / T R E N D S

WHAT COMES TO MIND WHEN YOU HEAR THE WORDS “luxury travel”? The Maldives? The George V in Paris? Palmfringed islands in the azure waters of Fiji or Tahiti? But what about Mongolia, Chile, or possibly Lapland, preferably when the northern lights paint the winter’s night sky?

“The concept of luxury travel has been completely redefined,” according to Nathan Wedding, founder of Brisbane-based Seven Skies. “In the sense that most of our clients live in houses that are better than just about any hotel in the world.

They’re not looking for a suite with 600 thread-count sheets, what they want is an experience.”

For almost a decade, Seven Skies has been taking ordinary mortals to extraordinary places, and it’s this search for the miraculous that is an emerging trend for the modern-day luxury traveller. A typical Seven Skies itinerary cherry picks the best of local culture, wildlife, cuisine, accommodation and guides, and stitches them into a luxury cocoon.

“Mongolia is a great example,” says Wedding. “Nobody thinks of luxury and Mongolia in the same breath but in Mongolia, we’re doing luxury yurts completely nomadic style, moving from camp to camp and using light aircraft to fly clients around. We’re going from the Altai Mountains, the domain of Kazakh nomads who hunt from horseback with eagles, to the Gobi Desert, to steppe meadows carpeted with wildflowers to majestic lakes.

There are no other travellers, it’s just you.”

It’s usually adventurers and hardcore backpackers who pioneer these experiences. By the time the luxury lodging arrives on the scene, the magic has faded. The wildlife is a little less wild and the animist cultural festivities are now part of an after-dinner show, but Wedding serves up the experience when it’s still close to its raw state, and burnishes it with a gold edge.

What is also revolutionary is the concept of luxury travel as a moveable feast. Luxury is no longer bolted in place but,

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with deep enough pockets, something you can transplant, to whatever wild and untamed places your imagination can conjure up.

Sarah Hoyland, Director of Sydney’s Classic Safari Co, is seeing much the same demand. “We do a tented walking safari in Kenya with camels and Samburu warriors as guides and it’s an amazing experience, without sacrificing creature comforts.

What the chefs can produce from a bush oven on the shores of Lake Turkana is just incredible. They make magic happen where magic has no business being.”

“How you define luxury is changing,” says Hoyland. “Not for every traveller, but for those who are looking for an experience.

It’s gone from being a five-star hotel room to a five-star destination. For them it’s not about Persian rugs on the floor and 17 scatter cushions on the bed, it’s about warm hospitality and personal service, and the location is absolutely key.”

“Experience” is the word that resonates among leading luxury travel providers these days. Wedding applies the word to Aman-hopping journeys in Bhutan, where road travel is bouncy and slow, to Christmas in a glass-topped igloo in Lapland, to a luxury tented camp at 3500 metres in Ladakh’s Indus Valley.

It’s also the word Danny Englman of Melbourne’s FBI Travel uses for the high-end Japan trips he choreographs for clients looking for something outside the ordinary. While Yvonne Verstandig, co-founder of Melbourne’s Executive Edge, references helicopter safaris she organises in northern Kenya.

“People are wanting to get off the beaten path, that’s my take on luxury; it’s an experience,” says Verstandig.

Hoyland applies the concept to bespoke four-wheel drive safaris she offers across the Chilean Andes, which she describes as “luxe glamping with ensuites, fine wines and gourmet dining, with condors and the peaks of the Andes overhead.”

The road less travelled can lead to rare and unforgettable moments such as, from left to right, coming face to face with the Karo tribe in Ethiopia, a camel safari in Kenya or a room with a view at Awasi Patagonia.

T R E N D S / LT

"Luxury travel has gone from being a five-star hotel room to a five-star destination. It’s not about Persian rugs on the floor and 17 scatter cushions on the bed, it’s about warm hospitality and personal service, and the location is absolutely key.”

SARAH HOYLAND

DIRECTOR, CL ASSIC SAFARI CO

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She nominates Chile as one of the brightest of the emerging stars on the luxury travel firmament. “It’s because of the diversity of landscapes,” she says. “You can combine the Atacama Desert, the highest, driest desert on the planet, with the icy wilderness of Torres del Paine and Perito Moreno Glacier in Patagonia, and in between is this glorious wine region. Some of the lodges are just amazing. Places like the Awasi Atacama and the Explora Salto Chico and the Singular in Patagonia; they are outstanding, absolutely flawless.”

Another key destination for the Classic Safari Co is Ethiopia. “Definitely up and coming,” says Hoyland.

“Especially the Karo and Mursi tribal regions in the country’s south, these are people straight out of National Geographic, the body decoration is just amazing. It doesn’t come with five-star accommodation but our clients love it.”

Luxury travel 2018 is not all about Bear Grylls adventures, albeit with a silk edge. For anyone looking for total relaxation in a warm and interesting part of the world where the languid arts are honed to perfection, there’s plenty on the horizon.

For Englman, the hot new luxury destination is Sri Lanka.

“That’s a country poised to take off big-time. It’s not the same level of luxury you’re going to get in a five-star hotel in Hong Kong but it’s very authentic, and Sri Lanka has some very beautiful properties in stunning locations,” he says.

“Travellers need to be a little more open-minded but they’ll have an amazing experience.”

Verstandig echoes that assessment. “In Sri Lanka you’ve got culture, wonderful boutique hotels that have been converted from grand colonial homes, some stunning properties in Yala National Park and there’s the Aman resorts. Sri Lanka is just emerging on the luxury travel scene, but it’s going to boom.”

For Kerry Schmoock, luxury travel designer at Adelaide’s Luxury Life Travel, it’s the Seychelles. “It has elements of Mauritius and also the Maldives, but the Seychelles is my favourite of those three,” she says. “It has a very natural soul, the people are gentle and the Seychellois way is very relaxed. It’s a cultural melange of Africans, Indians, French and Chinese with some great cultural assets, and wildlife conservation is a key priority.

“There’s some extraordinary properties there,” Schmoock adds, “some on Mahé, the main island, but also some great places on private islands. North Island is one of the standouts, along with Frégate Island Private and Denis Island, which has palatial cottages and villas but no television or phone signal. It’s a pristine paradise, with nothing to disturb the sensations of the natural world.”

“It’s also easy to get to if you take the non-stop SriLankan Airlines flight between Melbourne and Colombo,” according to Schmoock. “A lot of clients are pairing this with the Maldives, so you’ve got a great cultural immersion and one of the ultimate resort experiences, the best of both worlds.”

This page: The awe-inspiring Perito Moreno Glacier in Patagonia. Opposite page: All smiles in Bhutan.

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Gold List 2018 Our 14th Annual Readers’ Choice Awards

T H E W O R L D ’S B E ST L U X U RY H OT E L S , R E S O R TS , V I L L AS , W E L L N E SS R E T R E ATS , A I R L I N E S , C R U I S E S H I P S , C O U N T R I E S , C I T I E S , S K I R E S O R TS , T R AV E L AG E N TS A N D M U C H M O R E S P O N S O R E D BY

Best Overseas Resort Winner

AYA N A R E S O R T & S P A , B A L I

Finalists

H A L E KU L A N I , H AWA I I F O U R S E AS O N S R E S O R T B O R A B O R A , TA H I T I VOMO ISLAND, FIJI F R E G AT E I S L A N D P R I VAT E , S E YC H E L L E S J U M E I R A H V I T TAV E L I , M A L D I V E S ANAM NHA TRANG, VIETNAM S R I P A N W A P H U K E T, T H A I L A N D LAUCALA, FIJI

G O L D L I S T 2 018 / L T

Best Australian Resort Winner

QUALIA, HAMILTON ISLAND, QLD

Finalists

S A F F I R E F R E YC I N E T, TAS E M I R AT E S O N E & O N LY W O LG A N VA L L E Y, N SW LIZARD ISLAND, QLD S O U T H E R N O C E A N LO D G E , S A E L Q U E ST R O, N T BEDARRA ISLAND, QLD 45

L T / G O L D L I S T 2 018

Best Overseas Hotel Winner

M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L H O N G KO N G

Finalists

F O U R S E A S O N S H OT E L G E O R G E V, PA R I S T H E P E N I N S U L A H O N G KO N G M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L B A N G KO K M A R I N A B AY S A N D S , S I N G A P O R E RAFFLES, SINGAPORE FA I R M O N T C H AT E A U L A K E LO U I S E , C A N A D A BAUR AU LAC, ZURICH B E L M O N D C O PAC A B A N A PA L AC E , R I O D E J A N E I R O P A R K H YA T T N E W Y O R K V I L L A D ’ E ST E , L A K E C O M O BURJ AL ARAB JUMEIRAH, DUBAI T H E S A V O Y, L O N D O N BELMOND HOTEL CIPRIANI, VENICE P A R K H YA T T T O K Y O BELLAGIO, LAS VEGAS

Best Australian Hotel Winner

SOFITEL MELBOURNE ON COLLINS

Finalists

P A R K H YA T T S Y D N E Y C O M O T H E T R E A S U R Y, P E R T H THE LANGHAM, SYDNEY CROWN TOWERS, MELBOURNE SHANGRI-LA HOTEL, SYDNEY S H E R ATO N O N T H E PA R K , SY D N E Y SOFITEL SYDNEY WENTWORTH CROWN PERTH PIER ONE SYDNEY HARBOUR P A R K H YA T T M E L B O U R N E I N T E R C O N T I N E N TA L SY D N E Y OVOLO WOOLLOOMOOLOO, SYDNEY THE LANGHAM, MELBOURNE

46

C AT E G O RY / LT

47

LT / G O L D L I ST

Best Australian Boutique Hotel, Villa or Lodge Winner

P R E T T Y B E AC H H O U S E , PA L M B E AC H , N SW

Finalists

L A K E H O U S E , D AY L E S F O R D , V I C CAPELLA LODGE, LORD HOWE ISLAND, NSW E L Q U E ST R O, N T L I N D E N D E R RY AT R E D H I L L , V I C C A P E L O D G E , YA L L I N G U P, W A

48

G O L D L I S T 2 018 / L T

Best Overseas Small Hotel (Under 50 rooms) Winner

S O N G S A A P R I VAT E I S L A N D , C A M B O D I A

Finalists

J . K . P L AC E , C A P R I , I TA LY C L I V E D E N , B E R KS H I R E , E N G L A N D ELLERMAN HOUSE, CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA FOGO ISLAND INN, NEWFOUNDLAND, CANADA

Best Australian Small Hotel (Under 50 rooms) Winner

S A F F I R E F R E Y C I N E T, C O L E S B AY, T A S

Finalists

T H E L YA L L H O T E L A N D S P A , M E L B O U R N E , V I C L A K E H O U S E , D AY L E S F O R D , V I C B E L L S AT K I L LC A R E , N SW JACKALOPE, MORNINGTON PENINSULA, VIC L I N D E N D E R RY AT R E D H I L L , V I C

Best Overseas Boutique Hotel, Villa or Lodge Winner

VILLA SUNGAI, BALI

Finalists

AYA N A R E S O R T & S P A , B A L I F O U R S E AS O N S R E S O R T B O R A B O R A , TA H I T I VOMO ISLAND, FIJI ANAM NHA TRANG, VIETNAM A M ATA R A , T H A I L A N D T H E H AVA N N A H , VA N U AT U M ATA K A U R I LO D G E , N E W Z E A L A N D 49

C AT E G O RY / LT

Best South Pacific Resort Winner

F O U R S E AS O N S R E S O R T B O R A B O R A , TA H I T I

Finalists

VOMO ISLAND, FIJI I N T E R C O N T I N E N TA L B O R A B O R A R E S O R T & T H A L A SS O S PA , TA H I T I LAUCALA, FIJI T H E H AVA N N A H , VA N U AT U S T . R E G I S B O R A B O R A R E S O R T, T A H I T I KO KO M O , F I J I

L T / G O L D L I S T 2 018

Best Australian Health & Wellness Retreat Winner

G W I N G A N N A L I F E S T Y L E R E T R E A T, QUEENSLAND

Finalists

G A I A R E T R E AT & S PA , Q L D G O L D E N D O O R E LYS I A H E A LT H R E T R E AT & S P A , H U N T E R V A L L E Y, N S W H E P B U R N S P A R E T R E A T, V I C 52

C AT E G O RY / LT

Best Overseas Health & Wellness Retreat Winner

COMO SHAMBHALA, BALI

Finalists

B A N YA N T R E E P H U K E T, T H A I L A N D A R O H A W E L L N E S S R E T R E A T, N E W Z E A L A N D C H I VA - S O M , T H A I L A N D FUSION MAIA DA NANG, VIETNAM K A M A L AYA K O H S A M U I , T H A I L A N D A M A T A R A W E L L N E S S R E S O R T, T H A I L A N D B R E N N E R S PA R K - H OT E L A N D S PA , B A D E N B A D E N , G E R M A N Y T H E FA R M AT S A N B E N I TO, P H I L I P P I N E S T H E A L P I N A G STA A D , SW I T Z E R L A N D CANYON RANCH, ARIZONA, USA

Best Australian Family Resort Winner

C A B L E B E AC H C L U B R E S O R T & S PA , WA

Finalists

S H E R ATO N G R A N D M I R AG E R E S O R T & S PA , Q L D A L A M A N D A AT PA L M C OV E BY L A N C E M O R E , Q L D JAMALA WILDLIFE LODGE, CANBERRA, ACT ORPHEUS ISLAND LODGE, QLD

G O L D L I S T 2 018 / L T

Best Overseas Family Resort Winner

J E A N - M I C H E L C O U ST E A U , F I J I

Finalists

I N T E R C O N T I N E N TA L B A L I ANAM NHA TRANG VIETNAM A U L A N I , H AWA I I 55

LT / C AT E G O RY

Best Country Winner I TA LY

Finalists

FRANCE NEW ZEALAND A U ST R A L I A UNITED KINGDOM THAILAND FIJI U N I T E D STAT E S SWITZERLAND CANADA J A PA N VIETNAM S PA I N SINGAPORE GERMANY GREECE SOUTH AFRICA

G O L D L I S T 2 018 / L T

Best City Winner PA R I S

Finalists

NEW YORK LONDON ROME SINGAPORE VENICE FLORENCE BARCELONA H O N G KO N G PRAGUE A M ST E R D A M TOKYO 57

L T / G O L D L I S T 2 018

Best Luxury Train

Best Golf Course

Winner

Winner

VENICE SIMPLON-ORIENT-EXPRESS, EUROPE

Finalists

THE BLUE TRAIN, SOUTH AFRICA BELMOND HIRAM BINGHAM, PERU E AST E R N & O R I E N TA L E X P R E SS , AS I A THE MAHARA JAS’ EXPRESS, INDIA T H E G H A N , A U ST R A L I A ROVOS RAIL, AFRICA B E L M O N D R O YA L S C O T S M A N , S C O T L A N D

58

THE OLD COURSE AT ST A N D R E W S , S C OT L A N D

Finalists

R O YA L M E L B O U R N E , A U S T R A L I A CAPE KIDNAPPERS, NEW ZEALAND B A R N B O U G L E D U N E S , A U ST R A L I A R O YA L C O U N T Y D O W N , N O R T H E R N I R E L A N D TA R A I T I , N E W Z E A L A N D CABOT CLIFFS, CANADA

Best Airline - Business Class Winner

Q A N TAS

Finalists

E M I R AT E S SINGAPORE AIRLINES Q ATA R C A T H AY P A C I F I C AIR NEW ZEALAND UNITED ETIHAD V I R G I N A U ST R A L I A J A PA N A I R L I N E S

Best Ski Resort Winner

W H I S T L E R / B L A C KC O M B , C A N A D A

Finalists

ASPEN, COLORADO, USA VA I L , C O LO R A D O , U S A Q U E E N STOW N , N E W Z E A L A N D ST M O R I T Z , SW I T Z E R L A N D SNOWMASS, COLORADO, USA COURCHEVEL, FRANCE T H R E D B O, A U ST R A L I A FA L L S C R E E K , A U ST R A L I A

Best Airline - First Class Winner ETIHAD

Finalists

E M I R AT E S Q A N TAS SINGAPORE AIRLINES Q ATA R C A T H AY P A C I F I C AIR FRANCE 59

Best Cruise Line - Ocean Winner

SILVERSEA

Finalists

PONANT CUNARD LINE SEABOURN OCEANIA CRUISES C RYSTA L C R U I S E S REGENT SEVEN SEAS S E A D R E A M YA C H T C L U B AZAMARA CLUB CRUISES

60

G O L D L I S T 2 018 / L T

Best Cruise Line - River Winner

VIKING RIVER CRUISES

Finalists

UNIWORLD BOUTIQUE COLLECTION SCENIC RIVER CRUISES C RYSTA L R I V E R C R U I S E S

Best Cruise - Expedition Winner

PONANT

Finalists

SILVERSEA TRUE NORTH SCENIC C RYSTA L C R U I S E S AURORA EXPEDITIONS LINDBLAD EXPEDITIONS 61

LT / C AT E G O RY

Best Australian Food & Wine Region Winner

YA R R A V A L L E Y, V I C

Finalists

H U N T E R V A L L E Y, N S W M A R G A R E T R I V E R , WA MORNINGTON PENINSULA, VIC B A R O S S A V A L L E Y, S A ORANGE, NSW

62

Best Australian Property in a Food & Wine Region Winner

L A K E H O U S E , D AY L E S F O R D , V I C

Finalists

C A P E LO D G E , M A R G A R E T R I V E R , WA L I N D E N D E R RY AT R E D H I L L , V I C JACKALOPE, MORNINGTON PENINSULA, VIC B A L G O W N I E E S T A T E , YA R R A V A L L E Y, V I C S P I C E R S V I N E YA R D S E S T A T E , H U N T E R V A L L E Y, N S W L I N D E N WA R R A H AT M I L AWA , V I C 63

LT / C AT E G O RY

Best New Zealand Hotel Winner

H U K A LO D G E , L A K E TA U P O

Finalists

KAURI CLIFFS, NORTHLAND S O L I TA I R E LO D G E , R OTO R U A S O F I T E L Q U E E N STOW N H OT E L & S PA M ATA K A U R I LO D G E , Q U E E N STOW N E A G L E S N E S T, B AY O F I S L A N D S CORDIS, AUCKLAND

G O L D L I S T 2 018 / L T

Best New Zealand Property in a Food & Wine Region Winner

THE MARLBOROUGH LODGE, MARLBOROUGH

Finalists

M ATA K A U R I LO D G E , Q U E E N STOW N B AY O F M A N Y C O V E S R E S O R T, M A R L B O R O U G H T H E F A R M A T C A P E K I D N A P P E R S , H A W K E ’ S B AY WHAREKAUHAU LODGE, MARTINBOROUGH

Best New Zealand Food & Wine Region Winner

MARLBOROUGH

Finalists

H A W K E ’ S B AY C E N T R A L OTAG O WA I H E K E I S L A N D , A U C K L A N D MARTINBOROUGH 65

L T / G O L D L I S T 2 018

Best Travel Agency

Best Tour Operator

Winner

Winner

Finalists

Finalists

F B I T R AV E L

EXECUTIVE EDGE M A RY R O SS I T R AV E L M TA T R AV E L G R E G O R & L E W I S B E S P O K E T R AV E L OA S I S T R AV E L E S C A P E T R AV E L P H I L H O F F M A N T R AV E L C O N C I E R G E T R AV E L L E R G O L D M A N T R AV E L C O R P O R AT I O N T H E TA I LO R T R AV E L A SS O C I AT E S

C A P TA I N ’S C H O I C E

I N S I G H T VAC AT I O N S ABERCROMBIE & KENT INSPIRING JOURNEYS SCENIC COX & KINGS APT G R E AT E S C A P E C H A R T E R C O M PA N Y WA L K I N TO L U X U RY BUTTERFIELD & ROBINSON I N T R E P I D T R AV E L TA U C K W O R L D D I S C OV E RY

G O L D L I S T 2 018 R E A D E R P R I Z E S A N D W I N N E R S W I N N E R O F T H R E E N I G H TS AT G W I N G A N N A L I F E ST Y L E R E T R E AT:

Them e Ra i ns, B ond i , NSW W I N N E R O F S E V E N - N I G H T S A N C T U A RY C R U I S E O N M YA N M A R ’S I R R AWA D DY R I V E R :

Chr i s McDi ve n, Dou b l e B a y, N SW W I N N E R S O F L U X U RY T R AV E L M AG A Z I N E SUBSCRIPTIONS:

Kristin Fildes, Neutral Bay, NSW Virginia Pet tigrove , Russel Island, QLD Brigit te Stavar, Montrose , VIC Carlie Holt, HMAS Plat ypus, NSW Helen Smith , W ishar t, QLD

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C AT E G O RY / LT

T Y O U R P A S S P OLRD TO T H E WO R

A L U X U RY T R AV

ity The Emerald C

E L M AG A Z I N E

S H OW C A S E

67

PARIS

NEW YORK

LONDON

For him: Stroll the chic boulevards of Paris like a dapper gentleman in Tod’s Double T Velvet Moccasins in patriotic blue and red.

For Her: Move over, Carrie Bradshaw.

Channel your inner Uptown Girl in the bustling heart of the Big Apple with Tod’s Thea Bag.

For Her: These boots were made for walking from Carnaby Street to Covent Garden in Tod’s Pony Hair Ankle Boots.

$885

$2,685

$1,840

Main Tod’s stockist: 17-21 Rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré, Paris (+33 15 343 1616)

Main Tod’s stockist: 650 Madison Avenue, New York (+1 212-644-5945)

Main Tod’s stockist: 2-5 Old Bond Street, Mayfair, London (+44 20 7493 2237)

ROME

SYDNEY

SINGAPORE

For Him: Explore the Colosseum and other Roman antiquities like Marcello Mastroianni in La Dolce Vita in Tod’s Double T Gommino Moccasins.

For Her: From the outback to the city: Australian wool never looked so chic and stylish as on Tod’s Double T Shopping Bag in Shearling.

For Her: Tod’s Decollete Sandals will take you to breakfast, lunch, dinner, or simply a Singapore Sling, at the iconic Raffles Hotel.

$785

Price on application

$905

Main Tod’s Stockist: 53 Via dei Condotti, Rome (+39 06 699 1089)

Main Tod’s stockist: Shop 3035, Westfield Sydney, Sydney (02) 8203 0901.

Main Tod’s stockist: 391A Orchard Rd, Singapore, +65 6738 2212

Lindenderry at Red Hill’s Dining Room is a shining example of the Mornington Peninsula’s renowned food scene.

G O U R M E T / LT

Greener Pastures AN ICONIC FOOD AND WINE RETREAT ON VICTORIA’S MORNINGTON PENINSULA HAS A ST YLISH NEW LOOK, WRITES SUE WALL ACE P h o t o g r a p h y b y R H I A N N O N T AY L O R

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LT / G O U R M E T

SURROUNDED BY MAGNIFICENT RAMBLING GARDENS studded with iceberg roses, banks of pink petunias, manicured hedges and conifers standing sentinel, Lindenderry at Red Hill has undergone a beautiful metamorphosis.

Located in the heart of the Mornington Peninsula, just a one-hour drive from Melbourne, the 40-bedroom, elegant country bolthole has shed its outdated look from when it opened 20 years ago in favour of a sleek revamp – think country chic with attitude.

Julian Clark, CEO of the family-owned, Melbourne-based Lancemore Group that includes Lindenderry, describes it as a “reincarnation” and a contemporary fusion of European country hotel design with a distinctly Australian touch.

Step inside and you not only see the difference, but feel it too; there’s a vibrancy to match the fresh look that’s espoused by new general manager, Carl Forrest, formerly of the Lancemore-managed Yarra Valley Lodge, the award-winning Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld and the Art Series Hotel Group.

The multi-million-dollar refurbishment by leading Australian design team Hecker Guthrie is all-encompassing from the suites to the common areas, restaurant and bar.

Nature in all its glory has been the inspiration with subtle hues of grey, green and blue informing the decor throughout the white-washed, low-rise property nestled among almost 14 hectares of sprawling gardens, woodlands and vines.

Strategically placed picture windows provide garden glimpses that remind you to slow down, indulge your senses and savour the serenity.

Indulging is made easy in the chic accommodations.

Astute attention to detail runs through the suites, dressed in soft grey, green and taupe, and four communal spaces including the luxurious, curved Peninsula lounge, library, billiards lounge and indoor pool.

Art and nature blend seamlessly with a John Peart painting from Lancemore founder Jan Clark’s private art collection and other notable pieces gracing the walls.

The Courtyard, Linden, Garden and Balcony wings offer different views of the stunning property. My spacious Garden Suite exudes luxe touches including a marble-framed fireplace, soft buttery leather sofa, a writing desk and a bed that’s hard to leave. But pull back the curtains and the garden and lake beckon. The sleek bathroom has a generous tub with quality bath products and fluffy towels and robes.

Feeling peckish? The minibar stocks award-winning Lindenderry Chardonnay, local Bass & Flinders gin, and Red Hill Pilsner along with home-grown artisanal products.

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The Courtyard, Linden, Garden and Balcony wings offer different views of the stunning property. My spacious Garden Suite exudes luxe touches including a marbleframed fireplace, soft buttery leather sofa, writing desk and a bed that’s hard to leave. But pull back the curtains and the garden and lake beckon.

Executive chef Paul Witherington, formerly of London’s Soho House and Port Phillip Estate, creates magic with hand-selected seasonal produce, offering a choice of à la carte and five-course tasting menus.

Overlooking the vines and rose courtyard, The Dining Room features a soothing moss green and taupe decor with specially-crafted blonde timber furniture and curved- back chairs. It’s spacious but cosy with a fire for chilly days and nights.

Witherington says he’s spoilt for choice when it comes to quality local produce.

“Our location means we have access to the most incredible produce from fresh seafood to artisan cheese and chocolatiers

Natural tones and chic luxury touches feature throughout the revamped Lindenderry.

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to olive groves; I aim to serve clever food that celebrates the local produce, exudes metropolitan chic and, at the same time, epitomises the country comfort guests crave,” he says.

Menu standouts include duck liver parfait with Lindenderry Pinot Noir jelly, zucchini pickle and brioche, while the squid ink pasta with Flinders mussels, calamari and goat’s curd, and the roasted quail with creamed corn, chorizo and consommé also deserve praise. Don’t leave without trying the indulgent white chocolate panna cotta, lemon sponge and delectable lavender ice cream. The service is excellent and informed and the 200-bottle wine list boasts local, national and international drops.

Rows of manicured chardonnay, blanc de blanc and pinot noir vines form a postcard backdrop to the onsite Lindenderry Wines.

The rustic cellar door, rated five stars by James Halliday of Wine Companion fame, offers a chance to sip and savour some top drops produced by talented winemaker Barney Flanders including an excellent hand-sorted Grampians shiraz.

A paddle of signature vintages complements the woodfired pizzas including the San Marzano tomato and buffalo mozzarella with basil, and the roast pumpkin and blue cheese. For a sweet finale, wood-roasted scones with housemade jam and cream and the famous Mornington choc tops with chocolate, rock salt and caramel are fabulous. Outside, wander through arched-wooded groves that look like fairy haunts and pass lily-strewn ponds and banks of hydrangeas or venture to the lake where fish make a splash at random.

Feeling energetic? There’s tennis and croquet on offer, but if you just want to take it easy, order a picnic hamper, spread out the rug and soak up the beautiful surrounds.

Lindenderry offers a romantic luxury getaway with a touch of glamour and is the ideal base to explore Mornington Peninsula’s thriving world-class food and wine scene. But from the minute you turn into the pretty tree-lined drive, Lindenderry’s country charm is seductive and you may well want to stay put – now that the metamorphosis is complete.

The multi-milliondollar refurbishment has introduced a contemporary look while remaining in touch with the hotel’s country roots.

THE DETAILS Lindenderry at Red Hill is a one-hour drive southeast of Melbourne on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula. Room rates start from $320 per night. For bookings and more information, visit lancemore.com.au/lindenderry

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L U X U RY T R AV E L M AG A Z I N E S H OW C AS E

The Right Track EXPLORE THE NORTHERN TERRITORY IN ST YLE ON A WILDERNESS ADVENTURE WITH INSPIRING JOURNEYS

THE NORTHERN TERRITORY’S ANCIENT LANDSCAPES ARE among the world’s most diverse, with teeming wetlands, dramatic waterfalls, time worn rocks and red earth deserts.

In response to growing demand for a premium tour that’s not afraid to venture off the beaten track, Inspiring Journeys has deployed its considerable experience to craft the Ultimate Territory Adventure in Style.

Catering to small groups of no more than 20 (children are welcome but must be over the age of 12), each tour is led by an experienced Travel Director and offers plenty of individual choice.

Travel is in comfortable 4WD vehicles – the best way to immerse yourself in the Territory’s arresting scenery – as well as on foot.

And while a moderate level of fitness is required for more challenging adventures, such as hiking to the top of Kings Canyon, there will always be an easier alternative.

Over 10 days guests explore Kakadu’s rugged gorges and wildliferich wetlands, camp in safari tents at a remote wilderness lodge on 76

the Mary River, explore ancient rock art galleries, and watch the sun set over the vast Kakadu flood plains. And there’ll still be time to cool off in the mirror-still waters of the region’s natural plunge pools.

In Katherine meet a didgeridoo master and enjoy gorgeous views from the room of your five-star eco lodge. Then fly south to the Red Centre to dine under the stars in Kings Canyon, barbecue with a farming family on a million-acre run, and toast a spectacular sunset over Uluru.

This small group tour cleverly balances adventure with comfort, and the chance to engage with the places, people and stories of the Northern Territory.

THE DETAILS Inspiring Journeys’ Ultimate Territory Adventure in Style costs from $5165 per person, twin-share. For bookings and further information, call 1300 228 546 or visit inspiringjourneys.com/mncr

Winter at Lake House…

Two Chefs Hats – The Age Good Food Guide Hall of Fame – The Australian Wine List of the Year Awards Top 50 Restaurants – The Australian Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide Australia’s Best Food & Wine Property & Australia’s Best Luxury Boutique Property – The Luxury Travel Gold List Top 50 Hotels – The Australian Gourmet Traveller Hotel Guide

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The Royal Treatment

C A R O LY N B E A S L E Y C H A R T E R S A P R I VAT E AND LUXURIOUS VESSEL IN INDONESIA TO EXPLORE ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST BIODIVERSE MARINE ENVIRONMENTS

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deck, meaning everyone enjoys a view. The boat is built BOUNCING ACROSS A LIGHTLY CHOPPY OCEAN IN A from light timbers, decorated with tropical art works and small tender boat, I’m getting tangled up in my haste to finished with fresh nautical blue and white cushions. don my snorkelling gear. I’m with a dozen of my closest Our party is introduced to the crew of 10, including family and friends, travelling on a luxury charter boat called our private chef, who we come to love very much for his Rascal. We’re approaching Manta Sandy, an underwater superb multi-course meals and homemade cakes. We steam cleaning station for the harmless, gigantic rays. out of Sorong harbour and into a remote paradise, and I’m bobbing on the surface when I hear Cruise Director WiFi networks and work emails are replaced with spinner Gaz Phillips shout: “Manta coming!” Children and adults alike squeal through their snorkels in excitement as a giant dolphins and diving frigate birds. As we motor through islands, we pass the occasional tiny Papuan fishing village shadow approaches, then another. While we hover, two and whole families wave to us from their fishing canoes. majestic mantas, up to four metres wide, seem to fly and The luxury of Rascal is not only the boat itself, but also bank through the water, enjoying the services of cleaner the lack of a structured itinerary. fish right below us.

Phillips, formerly of Aman Resorts, This kind of spectacle is Checking in to the master has great experience in the area common in the Raja Ampat and, knowing that our group Islands, in Indonesia’s West cabin, I’m struck by the consists of divers, non-divers and Papua province. The island chain 180-degree ocean views, the children, offers expert suggestions. consists of more than 1500 modern ‘Hamptons’ styling “Would you like to set up a beautiful islands, and is touted by private beach party on this island scientists as the richest marine and the oversized bathroom. for the afternoon?” he asks, and environment in the world.

According to co-owner the crew zip across the aqua water With 75 per cent of the Erik Barreto, this is the to the perfect white beach with a planet’s hard coral species, 1300 gazebo, snorkelling equipment, varieties of fish, five types of sea only phinisi charter boat in stand-up paddleboards and kayaks, turtles, two kinds of manta rays, Indonesia with five double plus a cooler box of chilled drinks and forests thick with birds, the ensuite cabins, all of which and snacks. area is an eco-enthusiast’s dream.

Personally, I’m most looking To fully experience this natural are above deck, meaning forward to the diving, and it wonder, my family and two everyone enjoys a view. doesn’t get more bespoke than others have chartered our own this. Phillips arranges a dive for boat. Raja Ampat translates to two of us at ‘Figure of Eight’, amid challenging surface ‘four kings’, and this week we’re being treated like royalty swell and underwater currents. It’s worth the effort as on Rascal, launched in 2017. the underwater life here is mind boggling, with schooling The remote location means Raja Ampat has mostly trevally, turtles, sharks, stonefish and a wall crowded with attracted only dedicated divers, and while this boat more sponges and soft corals than I’ve seen before. Later, certainly caters for them, non-divers here are just as Phillips takes the less experienced divers for an easier dive spoilt. Rascal is a wooden phinisi; built by traditional and on another day, our unqualified ‘tweens’ delight in an Konjo boat builders of Sulawesi. By forgoing the largely ornamental sails and masts, the boat instead provides four introductory scuba experience.

With marine life so prolific, even non-divers are immersed large communal deck areas for gatherings. in the action. At Yenbuba Jetty, we snorkel at dusk with Checking in to the master cabin, I’m struck by the a sleepy hawksbill turtle. Drifting on gentle currents, 180-degree ocean views, the modern ‘Hamptons’ styling we’re next in the midst of thousands of tuna, barracudas and the oversized bathroom. According to co-owner Erik and huge Maori wrasse, and when we’ve had enough, our Barreto, this is the only phinisi charter boat in Indonesia waiting speedboat whisks us back to Rascal for hot showers. with five double ensuite cabins, all of which are above

With ensuite cabins, a private chef, and the Raja Ampat Islands always in sight, a Rascal charter voyage is next-level luxury.

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Cerulean waters peppered with jungle-covered islands give Raja Ampat its glowing reputation.

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Hoping to capture a postcard-worthy photo, I clamber up the steep limestone hill of Mount Pindito. Who knew hiking could be luxurious? While one crew member has hovered at the back of our group to assist, another has ascended before us, and as I reach the top, puffing, he greets me with chilled water and a cold towel, presented elegantly on a wooden tray. The view of the Wayag Islands is simply spectacular, and we spy our solitary boat in the coral-rimmed lagoon far below.

After dinner, kids are tucked away in bed and the adults adjourn to the rooftop deck for a nightcap. The nearest town is hundreds of kilometres away, and the view of shooting stars blazing across the night sky is intoxicating (or maybe that’s the pinot noir). A splash is heard nearby and we guess it’s another jumping baby manta ray, like one we saw earlier.

As we sit, our waitress appears. “I brought you another bottle of the pinot,” she says helpfully, as we raise a glass to great friends, to Raja Ampat, and to travelling like royalty.

THE DETAILS Rascal operates in Raja Ampat from October to April, departing from Sorong. Flights are available from Jakarta, Makassar or Manado.

The rest of the year, Rascal operates in Komodo National Park, departing from Labuan Bajo (Flores). Flights are available from Bali or Jakarta.

Voyages include all food and non-alcoholic drinks, all activities, snorkelling and diving equipment, and airport transfers. Rascal can be chartered for US$9500 (about A$12,200) plus 10% tax per night in Raja Ampat, including the marine park fee, and for US$8500 (about A$10,900) plus 10% tax per night in the Komodo Islands.

As Rascal avoids the monsoons in both home ports, expect warm tropical weather wherever you join the boat, with the occasional shower.

Bring a rash vest for protection from the sun and occasional harmless jellyfish. The hike up Mount Pindito requires enclosed shoes.

For bookings and further information, visit rascal-charters.com.

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Famous for quirky design, QT has stayed true to form with its new Queenstown hotel, starting with the colourful lobby.

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Queenstown with a capital

QT A S K E L LY A L L E N D I S C OV E R S , THE NEWEST STAR IN THE QT FIRMAMENT IS THE ESSENCE OF NEW ZEALAND COOL

QUEENSTOWN IS RENOWNED WORLDWIDE AS AN ADVENTURE capital and combining activity-filled days with chilled-out nights is high on the agenda of many visitors. Having arrived in town late last year, QT Queenstown has the remit covered.

This sexy hotel with an après ski atmosphere flawlessly combines the South Island’s raw natural beauty with the playful design QT is famous for.

It wouldn’t be a bona fide QT without this intrinsic sense of play. The quirky approach has been a hallmark of the Australian hotel group since it launched its first property in 2011. It now has properties in seven Australian destinations while Queenstown marks the second international addition behind Wellington.

Perched above Lake Wakatipu, an easy 20-minute cab ride from Queenstown Airport and a five-minute walk to the centre of town, this stylish and thoroughly contemporary hotel is the essence of New Zealand cool.

Entering the lobby for the first time is like stepping into a modern mountain lodge. Rugged, organic textures abound with timber floors, decorative stone, a wood log feature wall, and a black iron fireplace suspended from the ceiling.

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A platter of macarons is a welcome and tempting sight and I eagerly grab one after checking in. But as I head to my room, I realise a tray of sweet treats has nothing on the sights this city has to offer – jaw-dropping lake and mountain views meet me at every turn.

With 69 guest rooms and suites, each positioned to showcase the magnificent scenery, the hotel’s style is a blend of vintage and modern with great attention to detail. Nic Graham leads QT’s Australian-based design team and balances bespoke accents with contemporary style.

I loved the leather pouch on the bedhead, perfect for storing reading glasses, mobile phone or a novel. There are driftwood coloured timber floors, copper lampshades, chunky bed throws and, of course, the signature QT Gel Dream Bed, so popular they’re available for purchase on the QT website. Even the minibar will make you smile with its merino wool socks and pineapple lumps, the New Zealand lollies with a cult following. The mix-it-yourself gin martini kit is also a nice touch.

The black-and-white marble bathroom with oversized egg-shape tub along with the Malin+Goetz toiletries are the best way to soothe sore muscles after a day of skydiving, bungee-jumping, skiing, jetboating, or whichever adrenalin-fueled activity you fancy.

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If you’re not sure what to opt for, make use of the QT iPhone app.

It’s like having a personal concierge in the palm of your hand with insider information on Queenstown’s best dining and shopping, and loads of activities so you can explore like a local.

Though the hotel opened in December, Bazaar restaurant and Reds Bar began operations many months earlier and have been embraced by both locals and tourists. Forget what you think you know about hotel restaurants. I spoke to a table of locals who said Bazaar is one of Queenstown’s best.

Food and Beverage Director Josh Smith-Thirkell works hard to support regional farmers and producers, and has an ever-changing menu depending on what is available fresh on the day.

Set up as a traditional marketplace, the restaurant has several stations, each with a chef or two. It’s tough to decide between the ocean-fresh seafood, Asian dumplings, slow roasted lamb shoulder, cheese and charcuterie plate, and authentic wood-fired pizza.

And then there is the wall of house-made desserts and soft serve ice cream. My tip would be to take it slow and enjoy a bit of everything as you take in the views – arguably the best you’ll find in Queenstown.

This page: Local produce reigns supreme in the hotel’s Bazaar restaurant.

Opposite page: Monochrome takes over in the sleek guest suites.

Reds Bar has a nostalgic alpine ambiance with Eames-era chairs, bold wall graphics that pop and equally amazing views. Combine that with killer cocktails made by top Queenstown mixologists and a DJ and you’re up for a good night.

It would be tough, but if I had to choose one cocktail, it would be the Spiced Cloud: marshmallow-infused spiced rum, honey water shrub, lemon, sugar, egg whites and pineapple. Did I mention Reds Bar has the largest selection of spirits in town?

Delicious as it may be, just one Spiced Cloud will do. There’s adventure to be had in the morning…

THE DETAILS Rates at QT Queenstown start from NZ$349 (about A$325) in low season and from NZ$499 (about A$465) in high season per night. For bookings and further information, visit qthotelsandresorts.com/queenstown.

Air New Zealand flies to Queenstown from all major Australian cities with non-stop flights available from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane.

For bookings, visit airnewzealand.com.au.

LOUNGING BY DESIGN QT Queenstown isn’t the only one flying high in the design world. Air New Zealand has been investing heavily in its customer service – especially at its flagship airports – and Queenstown is the latest to unveil a new-look lounge. The sleek and stylish black-and-white space, which almost doubles the capacity of the previous lounge, offers sweeping views across the tarmac and out to the stunning Remarkables mountain range. Located on the upper floor of the airport terminal, the refurbished lounge has room for about 230 guests with five spaces where guests can relax, unwind and refresh, or plug in and get some work done before their flight. For details, visit airnewzealand.com.au.

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London to a Tea THE ICONIC RITZ LONDON TREATS JULIA JOHNSON TO THE CLASSIC BRITISH TRADITION OF AFTERNOON TEA IT IS, QUITE LITERALLY, A FEAST FOR THE EYES AS NEATLY pressed waiters deliver tea stand after tea stand heaped with freshly cut finger sandwiches, warm baked scones with clotted Devonshire cream and strawberry preserve, and a mouthwatering array of cakes and pastries.

Polished silver pots of coffee and loose-leaf tea, bearing regal names like Ritz Royal English, Lapsang Souchong Imperial and Darjeeling First Flush, are poured into delicate china cups.

The elegant Palm Court, with its mirrored panels, marbled columns, gilded trellises and central glass ceiling, echoes with idle chatter as wellheeled guests catch up with family and friends.

Welcome to afternoon tea at The Ritz London, a classic British tradition in a quintessential British hotel, located in Piccadilly next to the leafy expanse of Green Park.

With its French chateau-style architecture, Louis XVI furnishings and Edwardian ambience, The Ritz delivers a grand and stately setting for this delicious ritual.

The Palm Court is the centerpiece of the Long Gallery, an architectural masterwork extending the length of the hotel from the entrance lobby at one end to the resplendent Ritz Restaurant at the other.

With the afternoon tea service offered in five sessions daily from 11.30am to 7.30pm, it’s not uncommon for visitors to spend all day at 90

the hotel, moving from a light lunch in the 1920s-inspired Rivoli Bar to afternoon tea in the Palm Court and then dinner in the restaurant.

A vision in soft pink, pale green and white, with glittering crystal chandeliers, floor-to-ceiling windows and a sun-splashed terrace overlooking Green Park, the Michelin-starred Ritz Restaurant is an iconic London venue for dining in style.

The lavish Louis XVI décor extends to all 136 guestrooms, including 25 suites, skillfully blending antique furnishings with modern comforts and technologies.

The signature Piccadilly, Royal and Prince of Wales suites naturally come with the service of a full-time Ritz Butler, who can take care of everything from unpacking to restaurant reservations.

Be aware, the hotel’s afternoon tea service is hugely popular.

Reservations should be made well in advance and a formal dress code of jacket and tie for gentlemen applies in the Palm Court. The Ritz really is London to a tea.

THE DETAILS For more information, visit theritzlondon.com.

Embark on a voyage like no other Visit some of the most remote islands in the world, the Marquesas and Tuamotus, on board the passenger freighter, Aranui 5.

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The architecturally designed sleeping quarters of the Blue Derby Pods Ride is a unique wilderness experience in itself

Ticket to ride GARY ALLEN SADDLES UP FOR A WORLD-CLASS MOUNTAIN BIKING EXPERIENCE IN A RUGGED OUTPOST IN TASMANIA

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I’M FEELING THE FLOW. OUR GUIDE HAS PUT AN emphasis on the word throughout the weekend. He explains the “flow” of letting the momentum of the bike propel you down the narrow trails, and we dutifully turn and pedal in unison under the pump of the ultimate adrenaline rush.

As we steer the bike over rocks and boulders, in between trees and ducking branches, our senses are alive and stimulated. Focusing on what’s immediately ahead and considering how to go over or go around, and where to land, all while maintaining control requires total concentration.

The small, little-known town of Derby in northeastern Tasmania is quickly building a reputation as a mountain biker’s dream destination, with a plethora of trails ranging from easy to downright scary, akin to downhill runs in an alpine ski resort.

The idiosyncratic names of the 24 colour-coded trails roll off the tongue like a vintage Tasmanian pinot – Riverside, Axehead, Sawtooth, Rattler, Flickity Sticks, Black Stump and Dam Busters, to name a few – winding through an ever-changing landscape of

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waterfalls, lookouts, rainforest, monuments, bridges and dense woodlands.

Steve is our guide and, thankfully, a truly experienced mountain bike trail rider. He owns Blue Derby Pods Ride with his wife, Tara – a business conceptualised while the pair were chewing the fat over a now-memorable meal of fish and chips.

The three-day experience on which the company is built takes riders through the world-acclaimed Blue Derby Mountain Bike trails, starting and finishing at the Leaning Church Vineyard in Lalla.

I listen carefully to Steve’s tutorials on the finer points of trail riding so that I return home without any broken bones, but I’m equally excited to get out into the beautiful Tasmanian countryside and hit these trails.

It’s certainly challenging – each day’s ride varies from 10 to 30 kilometres and one and a half to about three hours – but Steve makes sure we have fun and enjoy the experience while testing some limits. This, says Steve, is flow.

Cross-country mountain biking has its challenging and heart-racing moments, but there is a special magic in finding your flow

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After a hard day’s mountain bike riding, guests gather back at the pods for a well-deserved beer and gourmet dinner as the sun goes down

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The experience is well organised, down to a detailed checklist sent to guests in advance of what you’ll need to bring – essentially biking gear and accessories like gloves, a water bottle, head torch, sunscreen and casual clothes for evenings.

Blue Derby supplies the mountain bikes, helmets and spray jackets, as well as linen, towels and toiletries in the pods and books for reading in the central library.

After all the riding, the lure of a cold beer and a cool shower is strong and I’m not disappointed. When we return to the lodge each day, utterly exhausted, we’re met with a chilled Tasmanian beer and local cheeses, salamis and olives beautifully displayed on a large plank of Tasmanian wood.

Nestled amid the tall timber forest within the national park are the striking and luxurious accommodations. There are four two-person pods, each with a comfortable king-size bed and a huge landscape window that opens to allow in the fresh air as well as the calming melody of forest sounds.

It’s glamping taken up a notch. The pods are spacious and comfortable, and ensure a good night’s sleep.

I’m lucky to be a part of an eager group that wants to subject themselves, as I do, to the cold early morning plunge in the secluded swimming hole, a quick 15-minute

ride from the lodgings. On one swim, we are joined by a friendly platypus which is happy to paddle nearby, occasionally coming close but not too close.

Blue Derby’s food is another rich reward. Enjoyed family style with our fellow riders, the vegetables, meats and cheeses are all locally sourced ensuring some very tasty meals with plenty to go around. Local beers and wines are on offer as well.

Sitting around after dinner with another glass of wine or beer and beginning to feel the effects of the physical exertion, one by one we succumb and say our goodnights. The rest is welcome and savoured, for in the morning, we ride again.

THE DETAILS A Blue Derby Pods Ride experience departs every Monday, Wednesday and Saturday and costs from $1750 per person. For bookings and further information, visit bluederbypodsride.com.au Two Four Two apartments in Launceston is a good choice for a pre- or post-ride stay. Conveniently located in the centre of town, the three self-contained apartments can accommodate a total of eight guests. twofourtwo.com.au

The Ultimate Territory Adventure in Style The Northern Territory is a land of striking contrasts, from the Red Centre’s ancient secrets and majestic natural wonders to the Top End’s vibrant floodplains and hidden waterfalls, all waiting to be explored with Inspiring Journeys on the Ultimate Territory Adventure in Style.

Experience the majesty of the Northern Territory in luxury, travelling with a maximum of twenty like-minded guests. Visit the heartland of Australia and experience it’s most sacred landscapes, view beautiful rock art dating back thousands of years, sample delicious and authentic bush tucker and hear stories of the Dreamtime. This journey is truly the Ultimate in Northern Territory travel.

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The Cradle will Rock K E L LY A L L E N TA K E S A WA L K O N T H E W I L D S I D E IN TASMANIA’S RUGGED AND MA JESTIC CRADLE M O U N TA I N-L A K E ST C L A I R N AT I O N A L PA R K

WE’RE STILL A COUPLE OF HOURS AWAY FROM CRADLE Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park and I’ve already lost both WiFi and mobile phone reception. Not to worry, I have complete confidence in my husband’s ability to handle the challenge of our four kids while I’m off the grid for a few days.

At least that’s what I keep telling myself.

I’m on the Apple Isle to join the Tasmanian Walking Company’s Cradle Mountain Huts Walk. The six-day tour takes hikers through, up and over the spectacular and diverse landscape of this UNESCO World Heritage-listed site without sacrificing the creature comforts of cosy beds, warm showers and delicious food.

Our group of 11 is picked up early in the morning and taken to Quamby Estate, a picturesque farmhouse about 30 minutes’ drive from Launceston (you can also choose to stay here the night before).

This is where we load up our packs and stow any luggage that isn’t essential for the walk. We also meet our guides, Pat and Jill, both locals and passionate nature lovers. They check our gear, making sure we have thermal layers, gaiters and waterproof jackets.

The Overland Track has its own weather system, and you can get snow at any time of year. We are warned to keep our pack as light as possible – under 10 kilograms – and this information turns out to be essential.

The two-and-a-half-hour drive to the trail is a great opportunity for the group to mingle and learn a little about each other. We are four Americans and seven Australians and range in age from our 40s to our 70s. The Americans are all avid hikers, two of them with more than 35 years’ experience as rangers in the US National Parks Service.

I’m clearly in good company.

I’ve had great hiking experiences with Tasmanian Walking Company in the past, but I have also heard that the Cradle Mountain Huts Walk is probably the hardest.

The six-day, five-night adventure starts five kilometres north of Cradle Mountain and finishes at Lake St Clair. It covers a total distance of about 75 kilometres, depending

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on how many side trips you do, and a fairly good level of fitness is recommended.

Tasmanian Walking Company has been operating for more than 30 years and offers the perfect balance of comfort, adventure and wilderness. The company is based near Launceston with more than 100 staff who all know this beautiful island inside and out.

We start the hike at Waldheim and I’ve been warned that today is going to be one of the more challenging days. It starts out easy enough with a leisurely walk on a timber boardwalk through the button grass, and a very quick cold plunge in the 13-degree Crater Lake.

From here it is straight up to Marion’s Lookout, a steep climb aided by a chain railing. The vista is special, looking down on Dove Lake to one side and up at Cradle Mountain on the other.

Those who were smart enough to bring a walking pole are looking rather smug, and though I have never used one, I can see where they would come in handy on this trip.

There are spectacular views of Cradle Mountain, which we thankfully won’t be climbing on this walk. This is an option on the Cradle Mountain Huts “adventure” walk, but I think you would need to be part-mountain goat to navigate the sheer jagged terrain.

Today we've been lucky with perfect weather and enjoy our picnic lunch in the sunshine alongside Plateau Creek.

By the time we roll into Barn Bluff, our private hut for the evening, it’s 7pm. We’ve been walking since 11am and are exhausted. Thank goodness one of the guides has run ahead and not only started dinner, but also prepared a selection of Tasmanian cheeses and wines, which taste like heaven after our long day.

We unwind by the fire, swap stories, and discuss sore muscles while dinner – a delicious smoked salmon miso noodle soup and a chocolate fudge mousse for dessert – is served. The huts are surprisingly well appointed with six bedrooms, two composting toilets and two showers with solar hot water.

Cradle Mountain, the rough-cut jewel of Tasmania’s famous wilderness.

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Delicious Tasmanian fare and comfortable hut accommodation are just reward after a day’s hiking.

There is a gas fireplace in the main room and one in the drying room. The huge communal dining table is where we gather for meals, board games and impromptu sing-alongs.

I don’t know if I’m just lucky, but we have a fantastic group and are belting out John Denver songs by the second night (there is a guitar in each hut).

As the week unfolds, we drop into a rhythm and become “pack fit”. We almost forget the extra 10kg on our backs. Almost.

The scenery is constantly changing from temperate rainforest and glacially carved lakes to alpine plateaus and 2,000-year-old King Billy pines.

And no matter how difficult the day is, there is always a cosy fire and warm scones with jam and cream or some other tasty treat waiting for us when we arrive at the hut.

The food is remarkably delicious considering anything fresh is carried by the guides and non-perishables are air-dropped to the campsites twice a year.

The day we climb Mount Oakleigh (an optional side-trip) is the day I am pushed to my limit. Having already walked close to five hours to reach the base, I have a choice between walking another 30 minutes to the hut to relax with a glass

of pinot in front of the fire, or spending the next four and a half hours grabbing at tree roots to pull myself up the side of a mountain.

I decide the pinot will taste even better post-summit, and so do seven others in the group. About halfway up, a fellow hiker realises the soles of his boots have detached and the only thing holding them in place are the strap on his gaiters.

Jill comes to the rescue with first aid tape, which does the trick until we make it back to the hut where boot glue finishes the job.

On our last day, when we finally reach Lake St Clair, a few of us take a celebratory plunge before boarding the ferry that takes us back to civilisation. WiFi and mobile reception return, but I’ve come to quite enjoy my time off the grid.

THE DETAILS Tasmanian Walking Company operates the Cradle Mountain Huts Walk between October and May, with prices starting from $3380 per person. For bookings and further details, visit taswalkingco.com.au

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A Experience +

A S R O S LY N J O L LY D I S C OV E R S , THE WINTER WONDERLAND OF SWITZERLAND IS JUST AS BEAUTIFUL IN SUMMER

SWITZERLAND IS RENOWNED AS A WINTER-SPORT PLAYGROUND, but once the snow melts and delicate alpine wildflowers appear, this beautiful country transforms into a spectacular summer or autumn destination.

With its bracing fresh air, trumpeting a back-to-nature call from every alpenhorn, Switzerland offers endless possibilities for outdoor enjoyment in the most scenic of settings.

The Swiss embrace summer passionately. In the countryside, it’s all about connecting with nature through walking, cycling and paddling.

In the cities, parks fill with picnickers, outdoor venues sprout like mushrooms, and people gather by the lakes or rivers to swim, sunbathe and socialise.

Basel, on the banks of the Rhine River, has a Mediterranean climate and a breezy summer lifestyle to match. Downtown, you’ll see boardshorts and bikinis aplenty as locals descend on the river, where pop-up markets and jaunty buvettes (bistros) add to the fun holiday atmosphere.

Take a river cruise to picturesque Rheinfelden and follow the Fricktal walking trail through charming meadows and orchards. Or let the country come to you at Fondation Beyeler – Switzerland’s most visited art museum – where a landscaped park overlooks fields of cows and corn.

In Switzerland’s largest city, Zurich, summer brings a busy calendar of outdoor music festivals, including Openair, Caliente! and Street Parade. Swimming in the Limmat River and Zürichsee is made easy by beautifully maintained public baths, some of which, like the art-nouveau Frauenbad, transform into hip, alfresco bars at night.

Explore the city’s many green spaces, such as tranquil Irchelpark and old-world Belvoirpark, or while away a languid summer evening at a riverside pub on the old stone quays of the historic Schipfe district.

Charming, compact Lucerne is considered by many to be the quintessential Swiss city. Perched on the edge of the mountain-ringed Vierwaldstättersee (otherwise known as Lake Lucerne), the city has its very own ‘Riviera’ with peaceful swimming areas and elegant lakeside promenades.

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E U R O P E / LT The whimsical cogwheel train Wengeneralpbahn crosses the Kleine Scheidegg in front of the Eiger North Face with a view to Grindelwald.

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© All images courtesy of Switzerland Tourism

In Switzerland’s largest city, Zurich, summer brings a busy calendar of outdoor music festivals, including Openair, Caliente! and Street Parade.

Swimming in the Limmat River and Zürichsee is made easy by beautifully maintained public baths, some of which, like the art-nouveau Frauenbad, transform into hip, alfresco bars at night.

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Head to Lucerne’s Lido Beach Club to swim, play beach volleyball or rent a stand-up paddleboard; watch the sun set during a jazz or fondue cruise on a Belle Epoque steamship, or tackle one of three canoe routes that reveal the fjord-like scenery of the lake’s more hidden reaches.

Walkers and cyclists have a wide choice of routes combining the best of landscape and history around Lucerne. Join an ibex (wild goat) safari on nearby Mount Pilatus, or enjoy the thrills of a summer toboggan run.

You can even spend a night on the mountain in a tree tent.

Summer is the best time to experience the renowned Golden Pass rail route from Lucerne. Stop after two hours at Interlaken, or go two hours further to lakeside Montreux – either way, you’ll travel through a storybook land of lakes, meadows and villages.

Interlaken is the gateway to the majestic Jungfrau region with its extraordinary panorama of alpine peaks. On the rugged Eiger Trail, adventurous walkers gain breathtaking proximity to the mighty Eiger north face, a climber's mecca.

For a gentler high-altitude experience, take the mountain railway to Schynige Platte where you’ll find a delightful alpine garden, lake views and accessible hiking tracks. Higher still, at the Jungfraujoch, the Sphinx Hall displays a glacial landscape while ‘eternal ice’ allows year-round winter sports.

Lakeside, enjoy the balmy atmosphere at outdoor cafés on Mediterranean-style terraces. Watch or join the locals as they swim and windsurf in Interlaken’s two lakes, Thunersee and Brienzersee; cruise on a vintage paddle-steamer to Oberhofen Castle with its romantic overwater turret, and dine beside palm trees at the adjoining lakefront restaurant.

Each July, the musical world converges on Montreux for its signature Jazz Festival. But Montreux’s position on the edge of Lake Geneva also brings quieter summer pleasures, such as the stroll along Promenade Fleuri to magical Château de Chillon, where white swans glide around a medieval fortress that seems to rise straight out of the cerulean lake.

The beautiful Castle Thun in Interlaken, gateway to the Jungfrau region.

Family-friendly hiking trails and a marmot sanctuary make the mountain perch of Rochers-de-Naye, a short cogwheel railway ride above Montreux, the ideal fresh-air destination for young and old.

In autumn, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Lavaux Vineyard Terraces turn to gold, inviting leisurely bicycle rides through the vines with stops for cellar-door tastings and fine dining.

If cycling is the new golf, Switzerland is the world’s fairway. Nowhere will you find a better network of well-marked bike trails, convenient public transport and bicycle-friendly hotels, all designed to make your cycling holiday run like Swiss clockwork. From no-sweat e-biking to the most challenging mountain courses, Switzerland has a huge range of perfect – and perfectly beautiful – options. For a true cycling adventure, head to the Engadin district in the country’s wild east. Here, more than 400 kilometres of epic bikeways await, including the scenic Corviglia Flowtrail and the raw, demanding Suvretta Loop. For non-cyclists, the Barefoot Trail at Celerina promotes grounded, mindful forest walking.

A horse-and-carriage ride through the lush Fex Valley is an even more relaxing – and romantic – way to experience the glorious Engadin scenery and fresh air.

Can’t pick just one region? Use the immaculate rail system to get about, or grab an e-bike and traverse the country on ‘the heart route’ – guaranteed to make you fall in love with Switzerland’s extraordinary natural beauty.

THE DETAILS SWISS operates daily flights from Australia to Zurich via Singapore, Hong Kong and Bangkok with its partner airlines Singapore Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Qantas or Thai Airways. For bookings, visit swiss.com.

For more information about Switzerland and the Swiss Travel System, visit MySwitzerland.com and MySwitzerland.com/rail.

Chillon Castle on Lake Geneva, one of Europe's mightiest medieval strongholds.

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BÜRGENSTOCK HOTEL, LUCERNE

LES TROIS ROIS, BASEL

THE DOLDER GRAND, ZURICH

Recently opened high above Lake Lucerne, this famous patch of mountain turf, a celebrity summer playground in the 1950s, is reborn with four hotels, a vast spa and an alp-view infinity pool. The flagship new-build Bürgenstock Hotel affords gorgeous views from all 102 rooms; and just getting here, via ferry and funicular, is half the fun. buergenstock.ch

Any hotel dating from the 17th century is likely to claim a diverting guestbook and this one’s a doozy: Picasso, Joyce, Wagner, Dickens, Dylan (as in Bob), with Napoleon hosting the property’s first “business” lunch. Overlooking the Rhine in the heart of urbane Basel, the 101-room Le Trois Rois may be a plush homage to the Belle Epoque but it’s also very cosy, and the food comes with three Michelin stars. lestroisrois.com

With a glamorous facelift a decade ago courtesy of Britain's Lord Norman Foster, this 173-room “city resort” has two contemporary wings wrapped around the original fairytale castle, and an extraordinary museum-quality art collection.

Founded as a health spa a century ago, the Dolder maintains its serious commitment to wellness. thedoldergrand.com

Award Winning authentic Luxury resort Discover intimate luxury & legendary personal service in a pristine setting. Home to just 25 Fijian style bures, our lifestyle resort overlooking the calm waters of Savusavu Bay welcomes guests of all ages. Relax, enjoy creative gourmet cuisine under the stars, take a guided snorkel trip with our resident marine biologist & discover the surrounding unspoiled natural environment. Our inclusive tariff includes an exclusive nanny for each child under 6 and a Fiji buddy for older children & teens.

For our special packages see www.fijiresort.com email: sales@fijiresort.com Tel: 61 3 9815 0379 USA: info@fijiresort.com Tel: 800 246 3454

www.fijiresort.com

THE CHEDI ANDERMATT

VICTORIA-JUNGFRAU, INTERLAKEN

BEAU-RIVAGE PALACE, LAUSANNE

Chalet chic with a 21st-century attitude, The Chedi Andermatt is located in the lovely Urseren Valley in the heart of the Swiss Alps.

European elegance is overlaid with an Asian aesthetic; the day spa is a knockout, as are the mountain views from the swimming pool; 123 spacious guestrooms come with warm timber trim, fireplaces and comfort to spare. thechediandermatt.com

The hotel's setting is postcard perfect, tucked between two lakes at the foot of the majestic snow-capped Jungfrau massif. Gilded interiors hark back to the golden age of trave, but the Victoria-Jungfrau’s 216 guestrooms are more contemporary in mood and include stylish digs tucked away above the wellness spa, one of the loveliest in Switzerland. victoria-jungfrau.ch

An exemplar of gold standard Swiss hospitality for more than 150 years – just saying the name makes you feel cashed up – the legendary Beau-Rivage Palace nestles on the banks of Lake Geneva in gardens that might be on the Med. The 168 pastel-hued, Pierre-Yves Rochon-designed guestrooms sparkle with light; the two-Michelinstarred fine diner is headed by superstar chef Anne-Sophie Pic. brp.ch

LUXURY TRAVEL MAGAZINE SHOWCASE

Kimberley Coasting DISCOVER ONE OF AUSTRALIA’S MOST EXTRAORDINARY COASTLINES ON A ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME CRUISE WITH ABERCROMBIE & KENT ADVANCES IN EXPEDITION CRUISING HAVE INTRODUCED modern-day travellers to some of the world’s wildest places and there are few coastlines as spectacular as northwest Australia’s Kimberley.

This vast wilderness, three times the size of England and melding aquamarine seas, coral reefs, cavernous coastal gorges, extraordinary tidal waterfalls and ancient rock art galleries, promises the adventure of a lifetime.

But you can forget the swag. Abercrombie & Kent has chartered a new French vessel for a 13-day journey from Broome to Darwin from June 20 to July 2, 2019 that delivers entirely new standards of sophistication.

Think chic suites with balconies that would be more at home in a Parisian hotel, with refined food and a day spa with hammam. The state-of-the-art Le Laperouse also has a first-of-its-kind underwater lounge located in the hull, bringing the sights and sounds of the briny deep straight to your armchair.

The ship is purpose-built to access remote anchorages and Abercrombie & Kent’s elite expedition team of award-winning naturalists, conservationists and photographers will be on hand to oversee an exhilarating sightseeing program.

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Explore the dramatic canyons of the King George River in a Zodiac; take off in a helicopter to view the cascading cataracts of the Mitchell Falls; or opt for a fixed-wing aircraft to take a closer look at the surreal beehive domes of the Bungle Bungles.

With room for only 150 guests, Le Laperouse is an exclusive journey; the crew-to-guest ratio of almost one-to-one makes it even more so. The open bar, 24-hour room service and infinity pool complete this refined sanctuary while the marine deck enables passengers to kayak from the ship.

Whether you fancy yourself as a David Attenborough or Bear Grylls, or prefer your adventure with five-star food and 500 thread-count linen, this one-off cruise will prove irresistible.

THE DETAILS Abercrombie & Kent’s Kimberley cruise costs from $18,295 per person, twin share. Book now and save $1300 per person in Category 1, 2 and 3 Balcony Staterooms for a limited time. Terms and conditions apply. For bookings and further information, call 1300 851 800 or talk to your travel agent.

A Room with a Zoo...

Jungle Bungalow

WINNER - Best Deluxe Accommodation in Australia* Unforgettable Dining

Giraffe Treehouse

Jamala Wildlife Lodge in Canberra offers 3 very different accommodation facilities and is amongst the most unique animal lodges in the world. You can stay in uShaka Lodge with its own shark tank, in a Jungle Bungalow virtually built into the habitat of a bear, lion, tiger or cheetah, or in a Giraffe Treehouse where you hand feed your tall neighbour. Included are afternoon and morning tours, 5 star accommodation, gourmet meals and fine wines. Dining is in the uShaka Lodge tropical rainforest cave where you should be joined by magnificent white lions and hyenas.

Ph: 02 6287 8444 | Fax: 02 6287 8403 Email: info@jamalawildlifelodge.com.au Web: www.jamalawildlifelodge.com.au Address: 999 Lady Denman Drive, Canberra ACT 2611

* 2017 Australian Hotels Association Awards for Excellence

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Orange is the New Black LUCY JONES RETURNS TO HER HOMETOWN OF ORANGE AND FINDS THE REGIONAL NEW S O U T H WA L E S TOW N H AS C O M E O F AG E

IN 2017, A NEW VERSION OF AUSTRALIAN MONOPOLY was released. The destinations on the board had been chosen by an online public vote. New South Wales was to occupy the most prestigious addresses on the board, the two blue squares just to the right of ‘Go’.

When the votes were counted, Sydney Harbour topped the list and took the position occupied on the original board by Mayfair. And the second destination, earmarked to replace the ritzy Park Lane? Orange. This vibrant country town beat out more obvious contenders, such as Byron Bay and Lord Howe Island, becoming one of just 22 Australian regions featured.

I grew up in Orange but haven’t been back since I was 16, a lifetime for both myself and the town. In that time, Orange has reinvented itself, going from a quiet farming and mining community to one of the state’s great food and wine regions.

There are more than 30 wineries, artisan producers and great restaurants, as well as boutique galleries, quirky shops and buzzing small bars. I barely recognise the place.

I’m booked in to stay at the very place that features on the Monopoly Board, Borrodell Vineyard. It’s a picturesque hillside winery in the Towac Valley, about 10 minutes outside Orange itself. And, funnily enough, I grew up in the house across the road, where owner Borry Gartrell and wife Gaye Stuart-Nairn now live.

There are two three-bedroom cottages at Borrodell as well as two Cider Suites – plush couple’s retreats with huge wraparound windows looking out over the valley. The bed is supremely comfortable and there are little touches like a wood-burning fireplace and underfloor heating, essential for the chilly Orange winters.

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Our suite is thoughtfully stocked with breakfast provisions, a coffee maker and bottles of Borrodell wine available to purchase. The on-site Sister’s Rock restaurant is one of the best in the region, with many dishes featuring rare black truffles grown on the vineyard.

We begin our weekend at an Orange institution, Lolli Redini, which has been in business almost 20 years and been awarded one chef’s hat by The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide for the past seven years.

It’s a sophisticated restaurant, understated and set in low mellow light with all conversations kept to a soft murmur.

Don’t miss the signature twice-baked cheese soufflé, perfect paired with a glass of Canobolas-Smith chardonnay.

The next day dawns bright and sunny, and it’s time for some wine tasting. A car from Orange Helicopters and Limousines is to pick us up and a sleek, white stretch limousine duly pulls up Borrodell’s steep driveway.

You can customise your wine tour to include any vineyard in the region and we head off to Philip Shaw, Swinging Bridge and Heifer Station. All three are blissfully peaceful and the expert staff take the time to guide you through their comprehensive wine lists in detail.

Swinging Bridge takes the prize for prettiest cellar door in the region, a small pastel shed surrounded by flowering vines and hay bales scattered across the grass. Their #006 Tempinot – a one-of-a -kind blend of tempranillo and pinot noir – is also my favourite wine of the day.

The Orange Farmers' Market is held on the second Saturday of every month in the centre of town. It’s a great place for breakfast and to find all sorts of local goodies in one spot – olives and olive oil, gourmet salt, salami, cheese, bacon, nuts, honey, preserves and lots of fresh produce.

Home to more than 30 wineries, and some of the country’s best cool-climate wines, Orange is an oenophile’s dream.

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© Images courtesy of Visit Orange and Orange Region Tourism

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With acclaimed local produce and a thriving dining scene, it’s no wonder Orange boasts Australia’s longest-running gourmet food and wine festival.

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Badlands Brewery, Stone Pines Distillery and multiple wineries are among those offering tastings. A toasted cheese sandwich from The Second Mouse Cheese Company is up there with the tastiest things I’ve ever eaten.

One night, we roll up our sleeves (quite literally) for dinner at Elwood’s Eatery. The American diner-style restaurant is a project by local legends Smoking Brothers’ Catering, also known as twins Ben and David Allcock.

The boys started selling smoked meats, spice rubs and sauces at the farmers’ market, before moving into catering and finally opening their permanent venue.

They take their meat seriously, using state-of-the-art equipment to smoke huge sides of beef, pork or lamb for hours. The result is ribs or brisket that are melt-in-yourmouth tender, served alongside Southern staples like macaroni and cheese or waffle fries.

We continue the American theme with a stop at Washington & Co. Whiskey Saloon, a Prohibition-style speakeasy with a vast selection behind the bar and board games on the tables.

It’s small and lively, and far cooler than anything I thought Orange was capable of. I like it even more after a couple of truly excellent cocktails.

Time to shop. The Sonic is a mammoth fashion and lifestyle emporium set inside the very smartly reimagined Masonic Hall. Walls, floor and (very high) ceiling are bright white, all the better to showcase the beds fully made up with colourful quilts and pillows, the squishy stacks of blankets bursting from the shelves, and the huge artworks that crowd the walls.

On our final day, we head for one of Orange’s most stylish venues, The Greenhouse. Set atop the Ex-Services Club (where the bowls green used to be), it’s inspired by The Grounds of Alexandria in Sydney, a sprawling space with multiple food outlets.

Unfortunately, with my innate knack for bad timing, we’ve arrived during the one-hour period between breakfast and lunch on Sunday when no food is served.

I politely suggest it might be a good idea to serve food all day on the weekend, but it seems that might be one of those country town quirks that’s unlikely to change.

THE DETAILS Orange is a little under four hours’ drive west of Sydney.

For more information, visit visitorange.com.au.

FIVE OT H E R G R E AT P L AC E S TO V I S I T I N O RA N G E

OUTSTANDING COFFEE Owners Toby and Maddy Howell worked in top Melbourne cafes before returning home to open Good Eddy. There’s also a shop and exhibition space attached, all housed in a sleekly renovated former printing works.

PADDOCK-TO-PLATE LUNCHES Food blogger (and 2016 Australian Rural Woman of the Year) Sophie Hansen runs monthly paddock-to-plate lunches, farm kitchen tours and workshops at Mandagery Creek Venison Farm Kitchen.

ONE-STOP WINE TASTING If you don’t have time to visit all the vineyards, Ferment – The Orange Wine Centre offers tastings from the best in the region in a beautifully preserved heritage building. You can even join the wine club to get your favourites delivered to your home.

LUXURY GLAMPING Nashdale Lane winery, about 15 minutes west of Orange, has opened a stylish glamping retreat (pictured, above and right). Each of two tents has a kitchen, four-poster bed, sunken outdoor lounge, deck and wood fire.

A BIT OF EVERYTHING The Agrestic Grocer is a one-stop shop for Orange regional produce. Try a Badlands Brewery tasting paddle or The Second Mouse cheese board, stock up on fresh fruit and enjoy live music every weekend.

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READER ITINERARY

TASMANIA'S DERWENT VALLEY LUXURY TRAVEL MAGAZINE HAS PARTNERED WITH TRUFFLE LODGE IN TASMANIA’S DERWENT VALLEY TO BRING YOU AN EXCLUSIVE FIVE-NIGHT ITINERARY.

DAY 1 TUESDAY

Arrive•Free time•Fireside Tasting of Derwent Valley award winning Pinot Noir, and local small-batch Elderflower Wine, Olive Oil and Blue Cheese made from local minimally processed milk•Dinner

DAY 2 WEDNESDAY

Enjoy all that the Derwent Valley has to offer over a specially designed itinerary that will tantalise your tastebuds, bring you closer to nature all while sleeping in a luxurious king size bed in your very own tent with ensuite.

Breakfast•Tour to Derwent Valley’s iconic Mt Field, Russell Falls, Bushy Park, Salmon Ponds. Bushy Park is the home of hops in Australia.

Salmon Ponds was the original trout hatchery for trout populations in Australia and New Zealand•Picnic lunch under the trees beside the ponds of huge trout at Salmon Ponds•Free time•Fireside or farm tasting of Derwent Valley farm-based Artisan Ales and Vintage Cheddar•Campfire dinner

Truffle Lodge offers a 5-star experience under a canvas.

Situated on the banks of the Derwent River just 39 km from Hobart, Truffle Lodge feels like it is a million miles away! Created in one of Australia’s first truffieres, it boasts absolute river frontage and views to the mountains.

Sleep in or Riverside yoga•Late breakfast•Free morning•Behind the scenes visit at historic Derwent Valley estates producing smallbatch, medal-winning paddock-to-bottle gin, vodka and whisky, with tastings, of course•Choose from the lunch selection at Nant Distillery, which is situated in an old watermill. Select à la carte and charged separately•Cooking demonstration•Dinner

DAY 3 THURSDAY

FOR MORE DETAILED ITINERARY AND FURTHER INFORMATION PLEASE VISIT:

DAY 4 FRIDAY

Breakfast: Easy downstream Kayak in search of the elusive wild platypus•Opportunity to lunch at acclaimed local 2 hatted restaurant, The Agrarian Kitchen Eatery, owned by chef Rodney Dunn of culinary school The Agrarian Kitchen. Choose à la carte and charged separately•Free time•Fireside tasting of a selection of Derwent Valley highly-acclaimed cool climate white wines, with local, small-batch brie and camembert from minimally processed milk•Dinner

BOOKING DETAILS

TRAVEL DATES

Limited bookings! Book now for only $2,995/person Includes: All breakfasts, the picnic lunch at Salmon Ponds and dinners plus the Tastings of Pinot, white wine, gin, vodka and whisky tastings are included.

9th October to14 October 2018

DAY 5 SATURDAY

Single Supplement $1,500

Riverside yoga•Breakfast•Your choice of a morning at Salamanca Markets or the acclaimed MONA•Cellar Door Tasting at one of Tasmania’s best, Stefano Lubiana Vineyard•Opportunity to lunch at Stefano & Monique’s Italian style osteria, surrounded by the vines, their vegie patches and with spectacular views over the Derwent River. Choose à la carte and charged separately•Free time•Tour of truffiere at Truffle Lodge & discussion of the eco-build on site with the owners•Dinner under lamps in the truffle orchard

DAY 6 SUNDAY

Breakfast•Depart

•All other lunches are à la carte and charged individually.

•All alcoholic and bar service beverages are additional.

•Airfares not included.

•Airport transfers not included but can be arranged.

BOOK TODAY!

Call Luxury Travel Reader Itineraries on

1300 13 01 81

or email luxurytravel@conciergetraveller.com

WWW.TRUFFLELODGE.COM OR TO BOOK CALL LT READER TOURS 1300 13 01 81

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Features

A desert suite at Amangiri, Utah.

L I F E I S G R A N D 118 / T H E S W E E T S P O T 126 B O N V O Y A G E 134 / A M E R I C A N B E A U T Y 142 / S O C O S Y , S O C O O L 150 117

Life is

THE NEW LUX GRAND GAUBE IN MAURITIUS FUSES COLONIAL CHARM WITH CONTEMPORARY DESIGN TO CREATE AN INCREDIBLE ISLAND RETREAT W o r d s b y F R E YA H E R R I N G

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t’s the middle of the day and we’re sitting in the shade on plump cushions, feasting on succulent lobster rolls and sipping dry white wine, the slender glassware cooling our hands. Work feels a million miles away, just the way we like it.

We're in Mauritius at the new LUX Grand Gaube resort – but with design like this, you’d hardly think of it as a resort at all. It’s highly sophisticated interior design meets the tropics – no clichés, no shortcuts.

That’s because LUX enlisted celebrated interior designer Kelly Hoppen to work with local architect Jean-Francois Adam, and to stamp her unique aesthetic on all 186 guest rooms and suites, as well as the hotel’s many restaurants, cafés and bars. It’s LUX’s third hotel on the island, and the most beautiful to date.

A South African native, Hoppen felt an immediate affinity with the surrounding landscape. “When I first went to see the

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land, it reminded me of places from my childhood,” she says.

“My initial feeling of the place was its scent and its light.”

It’s certainly a spectacular location. Tucked away on a northerly peninsula, the resort curls around hills and beaches making the most of its direct waterfront position.

Set on the cusp of a rocky shore, Turkish restaurant Bodrum Blue is encircled by the lapping waves of the Indian Ocean.

The restaurant is decked with low-hanging woven lampshades of various shapes and sizes, reminiscent of jellyfish floating about. It’s all white and stripy, with touches of timber and deep-blue glassware, and the menu features dishes such as whole seabass cooked in a wood-fire oven.

Hoppen’s distinctive style is apparent throughout the resort, notably in guest room ensuites where colourful, geometric wall tiles are a chic departure from the usual cookie-cutter resort style of creamy-toned stone.

Dining at LUX Grand Gaube is, well, grand. Opposite page: Bodrum Blue restaurant. This page (clockwise from top): Palm Court, INTI and Café Lux

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Designer Kelly Hoppen has more than delivered on her eclectic retro-chic brief, as evidenced by the beautiful Bodrum Blue

© All images courtesy of LUX Grand Gaube, Mauritius Generous in size, the guest rooms, suites and villas are timeless with a stylish yet breezy beach-house vibe

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“We worked with a wonderful local artisan on the linen, bedding and towels, as well as the cushions, outdoor furniture and lighting,” Hoppen says.

“We tried to use as much Mauritian labour as we could.”

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lively capital. Our driver, Poojan Roberto Persand, offers “I wanted to do something different from the standard to give us a tour of some local sights and eateries. limestone that everyone uses in hotels and resorts in The Central Market is a bustling, souk-like maze, built Mauritius,” she says. “I wanted to bring in splashes of in the 1830s and packed with trading stalls piled high colour because guests are in the heat and sunlight.” with farm-fresh vegetables, exotic fruits, regional arts At Peruvian restaurant INTI, ornate floor tiles are offset and crafts, and colourful scented spices. by vibrant red and pale-teal seating and grey banquettes.

We follow Persand’s lead to a tiny stall called Chez Chandeliers hang from a timber ceiling, while an intimate Bayo, although he tells us the locals know it simply by cocktail bar next door pumps out pisco sours framed by the owner’s name, ‘Mr Maraz’. “It’s the best dholl puri in dramatic sea views. Even the salt bowls – handcrafted town,” he says. from olive wood with delicate brass detailing – confirm This classic Mauritian dish features soft, flaky flatbreads you’re in a cleverly designed space, somewhere that has made from wheat and lentils rolled up around butterbean been thought through rather than thrown together. dahl and a generous dollop of sharp chilli sauce. We follow The food, too, reflects this attention to detail. Every it with bajia – small crisp, savoury doughnuts – and fried day we dine on ocean-fresh seafood – sweet lobster tails; slices of melt-in-the-mouth eggplant. chilled ceviche; succulent tuna steaks grilled with fragrant We head over to Alouda Pillay to sample the popular curry leaves and lemongrass – and the sort of bread sugary alouda – a traditional drink made from and pastries only former French colonies seem sweetened milk and soft, nubbly drops of to get right: crisp, soft, chewy. agar agar; think of it as the Mauritian The grand entrance is perhaps the equivalent of bubble tea. hotel’s most striking feature, deliverL’Aventure du Sucre is a fascinating ing tantalising glimpses of the Indian museum dedicated to sugarcane – the Ocean through a giant archway. backbone of the island’s early wealth – Soaring, all-white wooden beams while the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam and Emmanuelle chairs are a nod to Botanic Garden in nearby the island’s colonial past – “I didn’t Pamplemousses is another must-see. want the ubiquitous honey-coloured There is much to be said, however, for wood that’s so typical of Mauritius,” E N G I returning to the sanctuary of your hotel, says Hoppen – while the staff wear crisp INTERIOR DES particularly when it’s the LUX Grand Gaube. white uniforms to complement the strippedThoughtful touches – such as the adults-only pool back scene. (replete with cocktail bar, thank you very much) and the Low-hanging pendant lights plunge into view, and staff who offer to clean your sunglasses while you laze on right up front is a series of huge, bulbous, white wooden the beach – make you feel so looked after. pendant lamps. “I wanted oversized, big pieces,” says Sometimes a sundowner by the sea, not to mention a Hoppen. “It’s kind of colonial, but I think Mauritius is few choice cushions, can do wonders for the soul. a bit like that with its architecture.”

Championing Mauritian craftsmanship was also a priority. “We worked with a wonderful local artisan on THE DETAILS the linen, bedding and towels, as well as the cushions, outdoor furniture and lighting,” she says. “We tried to use Air Mauritius operates direct flights from Perth to Sir as much Mauritian labour as we could.”

Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport, the The roofs of the hotel’s spa treatment huts also use major air gateway to Mauritius. For bookings, visit traditional thatch techniques. It’s here you can spend airmauritius.com. LUX Grand Gaube is the newest of three leisurely days in the hot, tepid and freezing-cold pools, sister resorts on Mauritius – including LUX Le Morne and sauna and steam room or being pampered with facials and LUX Belle Mare – and is located on the island’s northern body treatments by the wonderful in-house masseuses. coastline, a 50-minute drive from the airport. Room rates Removing yourself from the resort can feel challenging, start from US$352 (about A$466) per night. For more but it’s worth taking a day trip to Port Louis, the island’s information and bookings, visit luxresorts.com.

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Overlooking the Caribbean Sea, and set in the Val des Pitons, the Sugar Beach villas are the essence of resort luxury.

NESTLED BETWEEN ST LUCIA’S ICONIC TWIN PITONS, SUGAR BEACH, A VICEROY RESORT OFFERS AN EXCEPTIONAL C A R I B B E A N H O L I D AY W o r d s b y A N D R E W C O N W AY

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ere’s a true story. As our taxi from Hewanorra International Airport winds its way through dense tropical plantations, up steep hills dotted with villages and along beautiful coastlines, I turn to my husband and say: “We have to get out and explore St Lucia while we’re here.”

As the cab arrives at the entrance to Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort and takes us on a tour of the spectacular estate, I’m starting to waver: “Maybe we’ll just stay in the resort and not go anywhere.” And when we finally walk into our villa – a gorgeous white-painted cottage with a private plunge pool, set on a hillside with a panoramic view of the island’s iconic Pitons and the Caribbean Sea – my mind is made up: “I’m not leaving the villa.”

Located in the Eastern Caribbean islands, just to the northwest of Barbados, St Lucia is awash with luxurious resorts and hotels, but few can lay claim to the unique and remarkable natural beauty of Sugar Beach.

Set in the Val des Pitons, directly between the worldfamous twin peaks rising more than 750 metres above the water and island, this exclusive tropical hideaway offers a memorable holiday experience.

“It’s one of the most beautiful places on earth,” says resort owner Roger Myers, the British entrepreneur and visionary

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The iconic twin Pitons provide a lush backdrop no matter where you choose to explore.

Opposite page: Inside, high ceilings and a cool palette emphasise the relaxed sense of luxury in the Great House.

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who bought this former sugar plantation and run-of-themill hotel in 2005 and, with the help of leading Caribbean architect Lane Pettigrew, created one of the region’s best luxury resorts and residential developments.

“Everything about it, for me, is mystical: the setting, the views, the property,” he adds. “There’s a transcendental beauty to the Pitons that just lifts your heart.”

With 96 guest accommodations featuring hillside villas, beachfront bungalows and sugar mill rooms; an array of restaurants; a rainforest spa; two white sand beaches; and exotic gardens, Sugar Beach is in a secluded and seductive world of its own.

The resort is located on St Lucia’s calm-water southwest coastline, about five kilometres from the bustling town of Soufrière and a picturesque 45-minute drive from the international airport. Nestled in more than 40 hectares of tropical forest separating Gros Piton and Petit Piton, the resort has an almost ethereal quality that entirely befits its UNESCO World Heritage-listed setting.

From the unassuming main entrance at the top of the hill, the guest accommodations are cleverly grouped

in small and intimate clusters of villas and cottages, cascading down the tree-covered slope like mini-waterfalls to the beautiful bay.

At the foot of the hill is an enclave of private residences, some elevated on the lower slope, others perched directly on Glenconner Beach, named after the eccentric British aristocrat Colin Tennant, Lord Glenconner, who owned the hotel before Myers.

To the right, the road meanders alongside aquamarine water to a row of beachfront bungalows fronting the main Sugar Beach and under a canopy of mature trees to the Great House.

This is the resort’s social hub, an imposing but graceful plantation-style building overlooking tropical gardens, lawn cabanas, the main pool and a breezy beachfront restaurant.

Good food plays a major role in the Sugar Beach experience, setting the rhythm of the resort’s daily schedule – breakfast at The Terrace in the Great House is followed by a casual and leisurely lunch at the Bayside Restaurant just feet from the pool and beach.

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Sugar Beach can accommodate all manner of needs.

Its spa, pictured left, is a haven of relaxation while the many dining options can take you from a casual breakfast to an exclusive dinner and cockatils in the Cane Bar.

Guests gather in The Palm Court, above The Terrace, for afternoon tea and sunset cocktails, and then have various options for dinner: a standout Asian-inspired menu in the Cane Bar, which doubles as a specialty rum bar; a more formal affair in The Great Room, with its old-world colonial ambience and Mediterranean- and Caribbean-influenced dishes; or a toes-in-the sand dinner at the Bayside.

And every Tuesday and Saturday evening, Sugar Beach offers Machou, a pop-up restaurant on The Terrace alternating between a French grill and a barbecue.

The resort also encourages guests to enjoy “anywhere, anytime” dining: on the beach, in one of the lawn cabanas, on the boat dock, or under the stars on the terrace of

your villa with a personalised menu to suit all tastes and special occasions.

Under the expert direction of Executive Chef/Director of Food and Beverage Jacques Chretien – with his 30-year career in the kitchens of some of the best restaurants in France and Mexico – Sugar Beach delivers a stellar culinary experience.

Chretien’s thoughtful farm-to-table approach informs his team’s menus, with local farmers delivering organic meats, vegetables, fruits and herbs to complement the resort’s global wine selection.

Expect to pay capital city prices for food and drinks at Sugar Beach. You can dine à la carte, but many guests opt for part- or all-inclusive meal plans that help keep costs from mounting without diluting the quality experience.

By day, even a full resort never feels crowded with guests scattered among their villas, the beaches, the pool, tennis courts, the fitness center and also participating in an array of water sports, from snorkelling to diving and sailing.

Another highlight is the Rainforest Spa, an intimate retreat next to the main plantation house, designed by Pettigrew, built by local craftsmen and resembling a rustic village in a tropical forest.

The spa, which cost A$2.5 million to create, offers traditional St Lucian natural therapies in seven treehouse treatment rooms, along with a wet room, manicure and pedicure treehouse, and a fascinating Temazcal Amerindian steam room set inside a stone dome.

Between meals and activities, many guests retreat to their luxury accommodations, comprising 77 hillside villas and cottages, eight beachfront bungalows and 11 sugar mill rooms close to the Great House.

© All images courtesy of Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort

Another 22 private residences are also available for rent most of the year, especially during St Lucia's high season.

The mostly three- and four-bedroom homes feature pools, expansive terraces, indoor and outdoor living and dining spaces, and high-end kitchens.

Each sugar mill room has the same plantation styling as the villas, cottages and beachfront bungalows as well as a plunge pool and walled garden. Superior sugar mill rooms have the bonus of a roof terrace.

Our villa is halfway up the hillside, a standalone, white-washed cottage straight out of a Caribbean storybook, with an entrance hall, sitting room, master bedroom with four-poster bed and flat-screen TV, and a well-equipped bathroom with a claw-foot tub and walk-in shower.

The sitting room and bedroom open to a spacious terrace with sun loungers, a dining table, comfy plantation chairs under an awning, a plunge pool and beautiful views of the Pitons and Caribbean Sea. Each villa comes with 24-hour butler service, a personal iPad and a pair of cute his-and-her mobile phones linked to your butler’s station. Simply call to place an order, make a dinner reservation or request a pick-up from anywhere in the resort.

The resort’s finest accommodations are undoubtedly the two newly opened Beachfront Collection residences, set directly on Glenconner Beach.

These chic architect-designed homes are more contemporary than other villas on the estate, with a distinctive Southeast Asian aesthetic comprising numerous water features, glass sliding windows for seamless indoor and outdoor living, private pools and

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Contrasting against nature’s vibrant colour palette, the crisp white and beautifully appointed villas make for a calming environment.

jaw-dropping panoramas of the Pitons. There are also plans for another three of these homes to be built overlooking Glenconner Beach.

Exploring Sugar Beach is a joy in itself. Myers fell in love with the jaunty three-wheeler tuk-tuks that are popular in Asia and bought several to ferry Sugar Beach guests around the resort.

Splashed with vibrant colors and individual nameplates, the motorised vehicles dart around like tropical parrots. “You can be a millionaire or a kid and still love sitting in those tuk-tuks,” says Myers. “They just make you smile.”

St Lucia’s peak season is mid-December to April.

Sugar Beach also has its ebbs and flows, popular with honeymooners in spring and summer, multigenerational

families during school holidays (the resort has a dedicated kids’ club) and couples year-round.

The resort underwent a three-year, multi-million-dollar renovation and transition and relaunched in 2012 as Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort – and is for the most part wellmaintained. A nonfunctioning shower in our villa and a missing but prominent tile in the pool were initial minor flaws, but they were quickly fixed.

While Viceroy has managed the property since 2008 and delivers a polished international service, Myers was adamant that the resort keep its island character, especially in regard to the staff.

“I wanted it to be a Caribbean hotel, not a British or American hotel,” he says. “Almost all our staff is St Lucian and some have been here for 20 or 30 years. The people are simply fantastic.”

We never did leave Sugar Beach during our week-long stay, save for a tour of a neighboring cocoa plantation and a chilled Piton beer at The View, a local bar with a sweeping vista of Gros Piton. The other joys of St Lucia will have to wait until next time.

THE DETAILS Qantas operates daily flights from Australia to London or New York. Direct flights to St Lucia are available with British Airways and Virgin Atlantic from London, and several US airlines service the island from New York, Boston, Miami and Atlanta. For bookings and more information, visit qantas.com.

Room rates start from US$435 (about A$580), excluding tax and service charge, for a Sugar Mill room. For bookings, visit viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/sugarbeach.

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Aboard Le Soleal, passengers can expect Michelin-star-quality French food and the finest wines and champagne including Veuve Clicquot.

Bon Voyage FRENCH LUXURY CRUISE LINE PONANT MASTERS THE ART OF GOURMET FOOD, FINE WINE AND LA BELLE VIE ON A MEMORABLE SAILING FROM PORTUGAL TO FRANCE W o r d s b y S U E G O U G H H E N LY

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ows of crystal wine glasses glint in the light of a pale spring sunset as a battalion of waiters, dressed in gold epaulette-trimmed ship whites, welcomes us from behind magnums of 1999 Chateau Latour. Outside the window, I can see the 17th century tower that is the symbol of this legendary Bordeaux First Growth winery.

“There can be no better place to taste one of the finest wines on earth than on this Ponant ship in the Gironde Estuary right in front of our chateau,” says Latour’s marketing director, Jean Garandeau. “The Gironde plays such an important role in helping us create our wines.

And the weather is always glorious when Ponant moors out front.”

Not only that, chef Pascal Feraud and his team from Alain Ducasse’s iconic Jules Verne Restaurant in the Eiffel Tower have handcrafted a sublime menu to complement the wines.

Admittedly, this is a special occasion – the 30th anniversary of the founding of French luxury cruise line Ponant. And Jean-Emmanual Sauvee, one of the company’s founders and its current CEO, is on board with his family to celebrate. Great wine, great food, great company and great views. What more could you want?

This evening, however, is just one of many extraordinary events that Ponant has curated for us. Four gala dinners, each one more remarkable than the last, knowledgeable and engaging lecturers at the pinnacle of their professions in wine, cheese and the French art de vivre, a worldclass French jazz band, and specially tailored wine and cultural excursions all combine to make this a unique and memorable cruise.

Ponant has developed an enviable reputation for creating one-off, first-class, expedition-style experiences wherever they sail across the seven seas.

While this wine and food celebration may not be a trailblazing voyage to one of the far corners of the earth, it is a distillation – a drilling down, if you will – into the very essence of French savoir-faire. As such, it is as fascinating to this Australian Francophile as a cruise in the Antarctic or Amazon.

It also reveals something else quite precious, which is Ponant’s desire to share its heritage with its loyal clientele.

Taken together, these elements speak volumes about the special quality of the world’s only luxury French cruise line.

The company has come a long way in 30 years. The name ‘Ponant’ has two meanings: one refers to the smattering of whimsical and windswept islands off the coast of Brittany and the other comes from the Latin term referring to the West, and by extension, parts unknown.

It was the passion project of a few young officers of the French merchant navy who had the idea to create an expedition cruise line that embodied the very best of French class. Today, it is owned by Francois Pinault’s Groupe Artemis, which also counts Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Christie’s auction house and Chateau Latour among its stable of luxury companies. And, as it happens, not only does Ponant have roots in Brittany but so does its CEO Mr Sauvee, its new owner Francois Pinault and the captain of Le Soleal, Patrick Marchesseau.

Renowned as the captain of another Ponant ship that survived a Somali pirate hostage ordeal, Marchesseau is an engaging presence throughout the voyage. Wearing a wide range of always-elegant captain’s uniforms (note to self,

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find out if Ponant has an insider deal with Saint Laurent), he hosts guests at the captain’s table each evening, announces the sailing conditions and, as we cruise down the Gironde in the early morning, he points out the famous chateaux we pass. Most charming of all, he hosts a personal introduction to Ile d’Aix, the Ponant island closest to his heart and where he first learned to sail.

Even the ship’s doctor embodies an enviable expertise.

A pain-management specialist who did his thesis on sea sickness, Michel Guez has twice sailed around the world unassisted and is a fascinating dinner companion whose conversation ranges from Roman history and French politics to the most exotic places to go diving.

So, what specifically distinguishes Ponant amid the multitude of cruise ships that ply the oceans today?

First of all, Ponant ships are, what the company likes to call, “human size”. This 30th anniversary cruise is on Le Soleal, which at 142 metres has just 132 staterooms and suites. While this clearly makes for an intimate experience on board, it also means that Ponant ships can sail into smaller, more remote harbours that are inaccessible to larger ships.

Sleek and elegant, Le Soleal attracts many admiring glances from the shore, such as when she is moored in the heart of Bordeaux, near the neo-classical Place de la Bourse.

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Secondly, while this cruise may be more of a sashay through the heart of French food and wine, Ponant is a trailblazer in expedition cruising. Indeed, the company has been leading polar expeditions for 20 years. It may be surprising, but this very ship where I am savouring the finest wines with Michelin-star-quality meals, was the first French cruise ship to navigate the Northwest Passage from Greenland to Siberia in 2013. Six brand new luxury Explorer ships, each with world-first underwater ship lounges, will be launched over the next several years and the first luxury icebreaker on the planet (an environmentally sensitive electric hybrid ship) will come into service in 2021.

Last but not least, there is that intangible element of savoir-faire called “the French touch”. Starting with the cuisine and the wine (9000 bottles are on board Le Soleal) as well as Veuve Clicquot champagne, Ladurée pastries and a remarkable array of specially selected artisanal cheeses, gourmet fare is standard on all Ponant ships. From the contemporary elegance of the décor to the smart blue-andwhite crew uniforms, an understated French style permeates all elements of shipboard life. Hermès products are used exclusively in the cabins and the spa – with its serene treatment rooms, hair salon, hammam and exercise room – features skin care from Sothys Paris.

The sleek and elegant Le Soleal is known as a “human size” ship, at just 142 metres long and featuring 132 state rooms and suites.

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The Porto stop includes a city tour plus visit and tasting at Taylor’s Port. There is a choice of visiting Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao (above) or touring the Rioja wine-making region with a visit and tasting at Bodega Marques de Riscal and lunch in the medieval village of La Guardia.

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Pictured top right, the historic tower of the 17th-century Chateau Latour – a First Growth wine estate in the Bordeaux wine region of France.

The staff are bilingual and all presentations are made in both French and English (except for a few Englishspeaking-only cruises in Australia and the South Pacific).

This bilingual context attracts a broader multinational clientele – on our cruise, 17 different nationalities are on board – which means that cross-cultural experiences start the moment you leave your cabin.

For the past two years, the consulting team from multiple-Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse has overseen the restaurants on all Ponant ships. From home-made salmon gravlax with honey-dill mustard sauce or seaweed steamed seabass with shellfish and potatoes to lamb shank simmered in sweet spices followed by a chocolate tart with coffee Chantilly cream, every meal is sublime. And there are always surprises such as a sparkling fresh seafood buffet or barbecue lunch served poolside, not to mention the luxury of breakfast in bed whenever you want.

Charming and eloquent cruise director Axelle Lion introduces and supervises each of the gourmet and cultural excursions as well as the fascinating lectures on board.

Between our embarkation in Lisbon and debarkation in Lorient on the southern coast of Brittany, we have stops in Porto and Bilbao before an extended stay in the wine mecca of Bordeaux and a relaxing day on Ile d’Aix.

And when we are sailing the high seas, Professor Jean Robert Pitte entertains passengers with his fascinating discourses on the role wine plays in mythology and culture, sommelier Pierre Charles Gandilhon offers a tasting of sublime Burgundian Chardonnays, and master cheese-ager Bernard Antony tantalises us with the finest French cheeses.

In Bordeaux, we can choose expeditions such as a private dinner at art-filled chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, an exclusive visit to Second Growth Cos d’Estournel in the Medoc, a wine and chocolate tasting at chateau de Ferrand and the opportunity to explore the UNESCO World Heritage-listed wine village of Saint Emilion.

The Porto stop includes a city tour plus visit and tasting at Taylor’s Port. There is a choice of visiting Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao or touring the Rioja wine-making region with a visit and tasting at Bodega Marques de Riscal and lunch in the medieval village of La Guardia.

And always, Le Soleal’s serene luxury yacht-like ambiance welcomes us home. Our beige on beige, space-efficient cabin is immaculately maintained by our delightful Balinese cabin attendant, tea and pastries await in the Main Lounge, and when it’s warm and sunny we relax by the pool, indulge in our “open” mini-bar champagne on our cabin’s private deck,

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The chic gastronomic restaurant aboard Le Soleal.

or sip a gin and tonic in the Observation Lounge with its 180-degree views. Then, there’s time to freshen up and slip into something elegant for cocktails to the swinging sounds of the Christian Morin jazz band before dinner.

One gala dinner stands out above the rest. Chef Stéphane Duchiron and the staff from Ducasse’s Ore restaurant at Chateau de Versailles offer an exquisite re-imagining of what the Sun King Louis XIV might have served his guests. Purplejacketed waiters offer chilled langoustines with gold-leaf caviar and tiny vegetables in sorrel sauce, guinea fowl and duck foie gras with black truffles in pastry, and a gold-leaf chocolate bar alongside wild strawberries and lemon sorbet.

A sublime 2012 Bordeaux Second Growth chateau Gruaud Larose, the so-called "wine of kings and the king of wines” is just one of the fine wines served.

Several days later, we feast on freshly shucked oysters with local white wine outside a simple oyster shack on Ile d’Aix. Captain Marchesseau and his wife are laughing at the next table with Ponant’s CEO and his family. All’s right with the world in the spring sunshine beside the shimmering sea.

There is always a place for gold-leaf service in the luxury travel world. And Ponant has certainly earned its stripes offering experiential luxury in the most remote regions of the planet. But, drawing aside the curtain and inviting guests to share a much-loved, tucked-away island takes the concept of what is worth valuing to another level entirely. In its very name after all, Ponant is about savouring the soul of seafaring, both close to home and on far horizons.

A nine-night Gastronomy, Vineyards and Grand Crus sailing from Lisbon to Portsmouth in a Superior Stateroom on board L’Austral (departing April 13, 2019) costs from AU$5960 per person, twin share. This includes a 25 per cent early booking saving. Rates for a Prestige Stateroom with balcony start at A$7170 per person, twin share. Prices include accommodation, all meals on board, 24-hour room service, port taxes and open bar. For bookings and more information, visit au.ponant.com.

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© All images courtesy of Ponant - N.Matheus

THE DETAILS

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Amangiri’s suites are simple yet striking, reflecting the vast natural beauty of the wild and rugged desert

A M ER I CAN BE AU T Y U TA H ’ S M O ST L U X U R I O U S R E S O R T, AMANGIRI, OFFERS A WINDOW TO A M O N U M E N TA L, R AW A N D PRIMORDIAL DESERT WILDERNESS W o r d s b y A N D R E W C O N W AY

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s a waxing moon rises effortlessly in the night sky, bathing the vast and craggy mesas surrounding us in a pale, almost ethereal light, I’m suffering from serious suite envy. Don’t get me wrong. My Desert View suite at Amangiri — a rare and remarkable luxury retreat perched on the fringes of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument in southern Utah — is the essence of chic, with a sleek and spacious bedroom and living area opening to an al fresco terrace with an eco-smart fire pit.

The problem is I’ve had a nightcap with a savvy couple from New York, who’ve booked a Desert Pool suite. They plan on taking a cool dip in their plunge pool before retiring to a private sky terrace above their suite, complete with a king-sized bed swathed in crisp cotton sheets for superlative star-gazing and a blissful sleep in the pure desert air.

Thankfully, envy is a short-lived emotion at Amangiri, a speck of man-made luxury in a monumental, raw and primordial wilderness that pre-dates humankind, even dinosaurs, and appears as a touchtone to the dawn of time itself.

Plunge pools and sky terraces aside, this unique and exclusive 34-suite retreat shares its abundant luxuries equally among guests, encouraging them to explore and discover the ancient landscape and to relax in contemporary comfort.

Amangiri (the name is taken from two Sanskrit words – Aman ‘‘peaceful" and giri "mountain’’) opened in 2009 but quickly started to blend into its harsh desert surroundings, like a chameleon on stratified rock.

Aman founder Adrian Zecha searched long and hard in this unforgiving and inhospitable terrain – an area

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popularly known as The Four Corners, where the borders of Utah, Arizona, Colorado and New Mexico meet – and found what he was looking for at Canyon Point, a 25-minute drive from the small town of Page, Arizona.

Instead of building a jarring counterpoint to the ghostly white-grey desert sands and majestic mesas, bluffs and sheer cliffs of Canyon Point, Zecha opted for a more subtle and harmonious design based on a low-rise central pavilion with two accommodation wings on either side and a vast spa complex.

With pressed concrete as the primary exterior and interior building material, specially treated so its colour fades naturally in the harsh desert climate, the resort has an urban, almost industrial feel that’s a perfect fit with its rugged surroundings.

Anchoring Amangiri firmly into the desert landscape is a large and eye-catching swimming pool next to the central pavilion, set in a sunken courtyard with oversized daybeds and designed to wrap around a dramatic natural rock escarpment.

The Pavilion is the resort’s social hub, home to the main Living Room, Dining Room, Gallery and Library. Indigenous

Great effort has been made to ensure Amangiri complements its surroundings, which is why the pool curves around an escarpment of ancient rock

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artworks and furnishings made of rawhide and timber, offset with comfy cushions and soft throws in muted natural colours, create a cosy, residential ambience with an authentic American Southwest personality.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner at Amangiri also embrace the natural surroundings, with a choice of expansive desert views on one side of The Pavilion or pool views on the other, complemented by thoughtful and well-executed menus by executive chef Anthony Marazita.

You should expect to pay capital city restaurant prices, but Marazita’s Native American-inspired pairings of unusual produce and flavours, such as Mesquite smoked duck breast, Navajo blue corn and charcoal crusted elk loin make for an intriguing and inspired dining experience, especially when followed by an after-dinner campfire roasting of S’mores (marshmallow, chocolate and crackers).

Amangiri’s all-suite approach means there are no bad rooms, only better ones. All 34 guest suites in the two accommodation wings have uninterrupted desert views and

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essentially the same sleek and somewhat minimalist interior design. The ensuite bathroom extends the length of each suite, with twin vanities, a rain shower and soaking tub with desert views.

Each accommodation wing has an indoor-outdoor signature suite but my picks are the two envy-inducing Desert Wing Pool Suites (7 and 10) and Mesa Wing counterparts (24 and 25) due to their private plunge pools and fabulous rooftop sky terraces.

The resort has a network of guided or self-guided hiking trails and more challenging guided rock climbs on via ferrata (fixed cables and iron ladders) for guests to explore the surrounding desert, with the allure of a soothing treatment in Amangiri’s first-rate spa at day’s end.

A new aerial adventure introduced this year – The Grand Crossing – opens the via ferrata network to parents with children as young as five, providing a fun physical challenge as well as an introduction to paleontology, geology and archaeology.

Creative menus by executive chef Anthony Marazita, below, are inspired

by Native American food and flavours

© All images courtesy of Amangiri

Left and above: The desert suites’ monotone palette is soothing; likewise, the spa, which is a haven of relaxation, health and wellness

A replica dinosaur dig provides a peek into the ancient natural treasures found in the nearby Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, including castings from actual dinosaur fossils and trackways. For a really fun outing, take a spin in one of the resort’s fleet of racy BMW X5s and 750s, complimentary for touring excursions of less than four hours.

Amangiri is also an excellent base for longer day trips to some of the region’s most iconic natural attractions, including the Grand Canyon, Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks, Monument Valley, and the beautiful Lake Powell and Colorado River.

Amangiri’s best feature, however, is the one right outside each suite – that ancient desert bathed in rose-pink light at dawn and dusk, and flooded with moonlight after sundown.

Pure magic, with or without a plunge pool and sky terrace.

THE DETAILS Qantas flies daily from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane to Los Angeles with onward connections to Flagstaff, Phoenix or Las Vegas on American Airlines. For fares and bookings, visit qantas.com Depending on your air gateway, the onward drive by rental car or Amangiri’s chauffeur-driven car takes between two and a half and four and a half hours, with various routes passing through spectacular national parks. Alternatively, fly into Page Municipal Airport, an easy 25-minute drive from the resort.

Complimentary transfers are provided to all guests.

Rates for Amangiri start from US$1800 per room per night (about A$2415) including airport transfers and full board. For bookings and further information, visit aman.com.

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LT / C I T Y G U I D E - C O P E N H A G E N

SO COSY, SO COOL COPENHAGEN IS ONE OF EUROPE’S COOLEST AND MOST CUT TING-EDGE DESIGN CITIES, BUT IT ALSO O F F E R S V I S I TO R S T H E WA R M E ST O F W E LC O M E S W o r d s b y A N D R E W C O N W AY

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t’s a frigid Friday evening in the capital of Denmark.

The sky is as black as ink, the wind is whipping off the harbour with a biting chill, and it feels cold enough to snow. I’m wrapped in layers of winter clothes, and in any other city in Europe I’d be staying indoors.

This, however, isn’t like other major cities because Copenhagen has hygge, a powerful and very effective weapon to help banish the winter blues.

Hygge? Let me explain. Firstly, it’s pronounced “hue-gah” and is a uniquely Danish phenomenon meaning to create a warm, welcoming atmosphere and enjoy the good things in life with good people.

Think everything cosy – a roaring log fire, warm woollen blankets, cashmere socks, the glow of a candle, the aroma of sugar-roasted almonds, a mug of steaming hot chocolate, best friends around a dinner table – and you’re starting to get the picture.

Hygge weaves through the very fabric of modern Danish life, especially during the very long winter season, and is now so ubiquitous in Denmark (and other parts of Europe) that it was chosen in 2016 as a word of the year by the Oxford English Dictionary.

And on this late-November night, with just a few weeks until the Christmas holidays, I’m determined to find my own hybrid hygge in a cutting-edge city that does cool and cosy in equal measures.

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Historic Tivoli Gardens, above, is celebrating its 175th anniversary this year.

I don’t have to walk far. Traditional yuletide markets are in full swing in major squares, twinkling with colourful lights, lined with stalls selling festive ornaments and sweet treats, and packed with people drinking gløgg, Denmark’s classic hot mulled spiced wine (trust me, it’s delicious).

All of the stores on Copenhagen’s central boulevard, Strøget, one of the longest pedestrian shopping streets in Europe, are swathed in decorations and restaurant windows glow with candlelight.

Across the city in Tivoli Gardens – Copenhagen’s beloved amusement park, which is celebrating its 175th birthday

Copenhagen’s colourful streets are peppered with historical landmarks and calm waterways making it a treat to explore on foot or by bicycle.

this year – the air is so wonderfully thick with hygge that you can slice it with a cake knife as children and parents alike revel in the classic rides, fairy floss stalls and illuminations.

I’m starting to understand why Copenhagen is frequently rated the most liveable city in Europe, and Danes constantly rank among the world’s happiest people.

On its surface, Copenhagen looks much like many other European capitals. A major port and maritime city, it was founded around 1160 and is located on the island of Zealand on Denmark’s east coast.

With a population nudging 800,000, the City of Copenhagen is roughly split into six areas – the bustling commercial and historic centre, surrounded by a network of canals and lakes on either side, and five distinct districts: Vesterbro, Frederiksberg, Nørrebro, Østerbro, and Christianshavn.

The relatively compact city area is best discovered on foot or by bicycle. Its maze of streets, alleys and squares is home to a treasure trove of royal palaces, churches, museums, parks, gardens, and colourful canal houses.

Intersected by the central Strøget, which extends from Kongens Nytorv (King’s New Square) to City Hall next to Tivoli Gardens, this delightful city is a place to wander almost aimlessly, each twist and turn delivering a new sight to savour.

Royal watchers can head for Amalienborg Palace – the official residence of Denmark’s reigning queen Margrethe II and her family – and the nearby Rosenborg Castle and King’s Garden, designed as a royal summer house and playground in 1606.

The city’s low-rise skyline is pierced with church spires, a testament to Copenhagen’s Evangelical Lutheran history, and museums abound showcasing an array of cultural themes.

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Take the cover off Copenhagen’s chocolate box, however, and three very different and exciting concepts – contemporary food, design and architecture – are turning the city into one of the world’s coolest and most innovative destinations for the modern traveller.

The city’s new architecture, including UN City, The Blue Planet (Denmark’s national aquarium), VM Mountain residences, and the Koncerthuset recently prompted international style bible Wallpaper* to name Copenhagen its city of the year.

Sleek design, especially in the lifestyle and home furnishings departments, has been in Denmark’s DNA for many decades, but a new generation of outstanding designers, from furniture to art and fashion, are elevating Copenhagen’s international status.

Head to Vesterbro’s meatpacking district of Kødbyen, Nørrebro’s trendy Jaegersborggade, and Christianhavn’s Papirøen – a former paper storage facility that’s now home to Copenhagen’s biggest street food market – and you’ll find thriving hubs of creativity.

G R E AT D A N E S D E S I G N ROYAL COPENHAGEN | Amagertorv 6.

Denmark’s most beloved hand-painted porcelain is located on Amagertorv in central Copenhagen. royalcopenhagen.com GEORG JENSEN | Amagertorv 4.

Timeless yet modern silver flatware, jewellery and home products, located next door to Royal Copenhagen. georgjensen.com ILLUMS BOLIGHUS | Amagertorv 10.

This flagship of contemporary living and furnishings showcases Danish and international designers. illumsbolighus.com HAY | Østergade 61.

Another stunning emporium of Danish style and design located in the heart of Copenhagen. hay.dk PAUSTIAN | Kalkbrænderiløbskaj 2.

Sleek Danish furniture, rugs, lighting and home accessories, plus a great restaurant, in Nordhavn. paustian.com DESIGN MUSEUM | Kalkbrænderiløbskaj 2.

An outstanding museum and an excellent place to buy quality Danish glass, ceramics and fabrics. designmuseum.dk GALLERI NICOLAI WALLNER | Corkgade 6.

Widely acclaimed as one of the best galleries for contemporary art and sculpture in Copenhagen. nicolaiwallner.com MALENE BIRGER | Antonigade 10.

Stylish women’s clothing, accessories and bags by one of Denmark’s leading fashion designers. bymalenebirger.com

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Sleek design, especially in the lifestyle and home furnishings departments, has been in Denmark’s DNA for many decades, but a new generation of outstanding designers, from furniture to art and fashion, are elevating Copenhagen’s international status.

International silverware design label, Georg Jensen, has its roots in Copenhagen, where it was launched by the Danish silversmith in 1904.

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With a focus on purity, simplicity and freshness, Danish chefs are sourcing the country’s best ingredients and fusing them with new and old Scandinavian culinary traditions, with spectacular results.

Perhaps the most exciting element is the city’s burgeoning food culture, fuelled by the global fascination with new Nordic cuisine.

Copenhagen now boasts 18 Michelin stars at 15 restaurants (Denmark establishments scored a record 31 stars in the latest Michelin Guide), with some of the country’s best chefs bringing a fresh new twist to menus and restaurant design.

With a focus on purity, simplicity and freshness, Danish chefs are sourcing the country’s best natural ingredients and fusing them with new and old Scandinavian culinary traditions, with spectacular results.

Speaking of tradition in a city awash with contemporary hotels, it’s heartening to find one that recalls Denmark’s Golden Age while still offering all the comforts and amenities expected by sophisticated travellers.

Known locally as “The White Lady on Kongens Nytorv”, the grand, white-painted Hotel d’Angleterre has held court over Copenhagen’s square for more than 260 years.

Still fresh from a A$100 million total refurbishment in 2013, this landmark five-star hotel offers 92 spacious suites and guest rooms designed in classic style, but with a thoughtful modern twist and state-of-the-art technology.

No two accommodations are the same, with many of the suites’ interiors inspired by noted Danish authors, artists and composers such as Hans Christian Andersen, Karen Blixen, Ludvig Holberg, Bertel Thorvaldsen and Hans Christian Lumbye.

The palatial Royal Suite is a study in refined elegance, a lavishly decorated space with gilded panelling, plush carpets, and crystal chandeliers; separate living and dining rooms; and a royal wave-worthy balcony overlooking the square.

The hotel’s Amazing Space spa more than lives up to its name, featuring an indoor pool and body treatments to combat any lingering jetlag, while the stunning Palm Court ballroom and Louis XVI salons add a Belle Époque touch to weddings and special events.

Responsibility for the d’Angleterre’s overall style and design falls to Creative Director Alan Evensen and his team, who create the seasonal and floral decorations in the hotel’s public areas.

The talented Evensen also hosts private flower arranging lessons for guests wanting to learn how to recreate his unique hatbox designs at home (I duly cut a few stems and placed a few blooms but I won’t be giving up my day job any time soon).

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Clockwise from top left: Quail with Wild Onions at Geist; Asian tapas restaurant, Kiin Kiin Bao Bao; the popular Bronnum bar; desserts at La Glace, and the famous open-faced sandwiches at Aamanns.

G R E AT D A N E S D I N I N G ADMIRALGADE 26 | Admiralgade 26.

Owners Christian Nedergaaard and Sebastian Rind Nelleman fuse Danish, Japanese and Mediterranean traditions and flavours in their uber-cool new Nordic restaurant. admiralgade26.dk AAMANNS | Øster Farimagsgade 10.

The “king of open-faced sandwiches”, Adam Aamann recreates Denmark’s signature smørrebrød with fresh new ingredients, served with lip-smacking homemade schnapps and organic beer. aamanns.dk KIIN KIIN BAO BAO | Vesterbrogade 96.

Denmark meets the Far East at chef Henrik Yde Anderson’s newest addition to his Copenhagen restaurant empire: an Asian tapas menu delivered in an Arne Jacobsen-style dining space. kiinbao.dk GEIST | Kongens Nytorv 8.

This raw and dark space, with concrete floors, rendered walls and muted lighting, is the perfect backdrop to Geist’s pure, farmfresh Nordic cuisine served with a twist. restaurantgeist.dk NOMA | Refshalevej 96.

Voted the world’s best restaurant an astonishing four times in five years between 2010 and 2014, the incomparable Noma has recently reopened in an exciting new space. noma.dk COPENHAGEN STREET FOOD Papirøen, the city’s first and most colourful street food market, has been reborn as Reffen on Refshaleøen (a little further outside of the city), home to an array of independent food trucks from more than a dozen countries. copenhagenstreetfood.dk TORVEHALLERNE | Frederiksborggade 2.

Another wonderful food market in Israels Plads (Israel’s Square), with more than 100 indoor and outdoor stalls with specialties from many Danish regions. torvehallernekbh.dk ROYAL SMUSHI | Amagertorv 6.

This charming restaurant café is a whimsical delight, offering sweet and savoury Danish treats served on Royal Copenhagen porcelain and Georg Jensen flatware. royalsmushicafe.dk

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© Images courtesy of Hotel D'Angleterre Copenhagen

Known locally as “The White Lady on Kongens Nytorv”, the grand, white-painted Hotel d’Angleterre has held court over Copenhagen’s square for more than 260 years.

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Michelin-starred restaurant Marchal in Hotel d’Angleterre is led by acclaimed executive chef Andreas Bagh.

The undoubted highlight of a stay at d’Angleterre is dining at Marchal, the hotel’s acclaimed restaurant where executive chef Andreas Bagh delivers ambitious menus inspired by Nordic and French classics.

My four-course dinner – featuring a caviar tasting; a salad of fennel, poussin breast, and wild herbs; Norwegian scallops baked in the shell with seaweed, browned butter and citrus; and a delicious lemon tart – affirms why Marchal has one of Copenhagen’s coveted Michelin stars.

Follow this with a glass of bubbles in Balthazar, the hotel’s sleek Champagne bar, or a nightcap at nearby Brønnum, a cocktail hotspot next to the Danish Royal Theater, and you have the makings of a perfect evening.

Copenhagen is, of course, merely the tip of Denmark’s cultural iceberg. If you want to head farther afield, take the train north of the city to the exceptional Louisiana Museum of Modern Art and nearby Kronborg Castle in Elsinore (Helsingør), the setting for William Shakespeare’s Hamlet and a place boasting majestic coastal scenery.

And Aarhus, last year’s European Capital of Culture, is less than four hours by train northwest of Copenhagen.

On my last day, I treat myself to hot chocolate and a slice of Danish sportskage – a creamy confection of crushed nougat, whipped cream, macaroon and caramelised choux pastry – at Conditori La Glace, the city’s oldest and most popular café.

I don’t really need it. I just want to wrap myself in that warm, cosy and comfortable blanket called hygge for one last time.

THE DETAILS Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) is a member of Star Alliance and operates flights between Australia and Denmark, via Singapore, in a code-share arrangement with Singapore Airlines. For further details and bookings, visit flysas.com Copenhagen has many excellent hotels, but the grandest and most luxurious is Hotel d’Angleterre, located centrally on Kongens Nytorv (King’s New Square) and offering 92 spacious suites and rooms, a spa, pool and the Michelin-starred Marchal restaurant. dangleterre.com The city is one of the easiest in Europe to explore on foot, thanks to a reliable and efficient public transport system.

Another fun option is Bycyklen, the world’s first urban electric smart bike share system, with a built-in GPS so you won’t get lost. bycyklen.dk Take advantage of the Copenhagen Card, offering four purchase options from 24 to 120 hours, and free admission to more than 70 museums and attractions as well as free transport by metro, bus and train; prices from €54 (about A$86). copenhagencard.com Copenhagen is on the water and can be both wet and windy, so pack layers for changeable weather and good walking shoes. The city is relaxed and casual, with no formal attire required. English is also widely spoken, so you can leave the phrasebook at home.

For more information, visit visitcopenhagen.com and visitdenmark.com.

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Emirates F l i g h t N u m b e r : E K 418 AI R B US A 3 8 0 - 8 0 0 R o u t e : Dub a i t o S yd n ey ( s to p ove r i n B a n g ko k ) C l a s s : A380 Fi rs t C l a ss S uite / S e a t : 1 K F l i g h t t i m e : 5 hours , 36 m i n u te s ( DX B - B KK) + 9 ho u rs ( B KK- SYD ) R e v i e w e d b y : S t eve H ui , fo u n d e r o f rewa rd p o i n ts tra ve l c o m p a ny, i F LYf l a t.c o m .a u

THE CABIN Emirates A380 has 16 First Class suites in a 1-2-1 layout. The window suites have a two-layered window shade, twin suite doors and a pop-up mini-bar that are all electronically powered.

The suite has a built-in mini bar that can be raised or lowered at a push of a button containing mini bottles of water, juice and sodas. There is also a small basket of snacks such as chocolate, crisps, mints, a fruit bar and cookies.

THE SEAT The fully flat seat has a seven-way adjustment. The fourfunction inseat massage was comfortable, adjustable for speed and intensity. Comfortable and padded bedding is laid over the seat when you decide to sleep. The absence of overhead storage gives a greater sense of headspace; instead there is ample storage – enough to hold three cabin bags – beneath the TV screen without cramping your stretched-out leg room and a deep side compartment that can keep all your bits and pieces handy. The suite doors are high enough to provide privacy. The large dining or work table is easy to maneuver.

THE ENTERTAINMENT The entertainment system, known as ‘ICE’, features nearly 3500 channels including the latest movies and TV shows, games and music. There is a large touch-screen and a separate cordless remote with its own mini touch-screen that lets you control the screen plus the seat adjustments, massage function, lights and electrically powered suite door.

THE SERVICE Upon boarding you are shown around the controls and the features of your cabin and seat. This is followed by Dom Perignon 2009, a welcoming hot towel, and an Arabic coffee with a fresh date, a traditional pairing in the Middle East. The crew is highly attentive and always smiling, they checked on me to see if I wanted anything at just the right frequency.

THE FOOD Caviar, caviar: I repeat it because I ate it twice. As my route had a short stopover in Bangkok, I got to try two on-demand meal services. On my first leg I chose chicken with moroccan spices and for the second I chose stirfried prawns. Both mains were delicious, matched with fine French red wine that the crew offered to decant.

I skipped the desert and cheese as I was keen to enjoy some beverages.

As a new fan of scotch whiskey, I was keen to try a number of the different brands onboard. I tasted Chivas Regal 21 years and 18 years, Johnnie Walker Blue label, Woodford Reserve, Jura Superstition and Dalmore King Alexander III single malt.

THE ONBOARD LOUNGE The Emirates A380 has a lounge at the rear of the upper deck, accessible to Business and First Class passengers.

This is my favourite feature, allowing you to stretch your legs and engage in conversation with the bar staff and fellow passengers.

THE HIGHS This is the best of the best, a seamless experience before-during-after flight experience. Highs include the hotel-airport-home included chauffeur-drive, the onboard service, the large selection of food, snacks and beverages and the onboard lounge. The aircraft also features two private A380 Shower Spas – a rare and refreshing addition at 40,000 feet.

OUR RATING Five stars

THE FINE PRINT Baggage: 50kg in First Class, 40kg in Business (32kg maximum per item) Loyalty Program: Emirates Skywards WiFi: First and Business Class passengers get unlimited free WiFi throughout the flight Amenities kit: Bvlgari amenity kits and organic seaweed skincare range from VOYA. 161

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The Peninsula Bangkok DELUXE SUITE S i z e : 74 m 2 / P r i c e : Fro m A $ 5 3 0 p e r ni g ht / R e v i e w e d b y Rich ard Bun tin g / D e t a i l s : ban gkok . pe ninsu la.c o m

HOTEL Celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2018, this aptly named luxury urban oasis brings the style and sophistication of one the world’s most iconic hotel brands to the shores of the Chao Phraya River, the ‘River of Kings’. The hotel consists of 37 floors and 370 rooms, including 60 one-bedroom suites and five themed suites, all of which enjoy sweeping views over the river and the Bangkok skyline.

SUITE Our room was a Deluxe Suite which, at 74 square metres, offers more than enough space.

Offering a magnificent view of Bangkok’s famous city skyline, the suite is well appointed with soft silk, colonial-style furnishings throughout, a walk-in wardrobe and ample storage. An oversize marble bathroom offers a shower, bath and twin sinks. Add to this a user-friendly automated entertainment system and complimentary WiFi. LOCALE A 50-minute drive from Suvarnabhumi Airport, The Peninsula Bangkok is conveniently positioned close to the famous Sathorn Bridge and Saphan Taksin BTS skytrain station. A private Peninsula river shuttle service allows easy access to the city’s shopping and business districts.

Nearby attractions include the Grand Palace and Wat Arun, the former residence of the King, which is now used for royal ceremonies and welcoming international dignitaries.

LOOK AND FEEL Arriving at the hotel you immediately begin to experience an air of grandeur as you are ferried up the driveway and welcomed by a pillboxhatted doorman in crisp, dazzling whites and an equally dazzling smile. As I soon learn, this is the first of many smiles I receive whenever I

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encounter any one of the innumerable staff on hand to cater to every and any request.

mixologist guaranteed to satisfy the most discerning of taste buds.

EAT IN Dining options abound with The Peninsula Bangkok offering a choice of six eateries.

These range from casual snacks and drinks at The Peninsula Pool Bar through to allday dining in The Lobby and the signature Thiptara Restaurant, renowned as delicious and very authentic Thai cuisine.

The River Café & Terrace blends a mix of international chefs, the result of which is a wide selection of dishes using only the freshest produce. The River Bar, set alongside the River Café, sports a dedicated

SPECIAL TOUCHES The Peninsula Bangkok boasts the largest pool of any hotel in the city and for those with health and wellness top of mind, the award-winning Peninsula Spa and Fitness Centre are not to be missed.

Finally, be sure to book yourself one of The Peninsula Bangkok’s chauffeured limousines to ferry you about in airconditioned comfort as you explore Bangkok. And for those wanting to take the luxury up a notch, the hotel also has its own helipad.

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InterContinental Perth City Centre CLUB EXECUTIVE SUITE S i z e : 4 0 m 2 / P r i c e : Fro m A $ 311 p e r ni g ht / R e v i e w e d b y S iobh an P low man / D e t a i l s : pe r th . in te rc o nt inent al.c om

HOTEL One of the most recent luxury hotels to open in the Western Australian capital, the 16-storey InterContinental Perth City Centre is centrally located on the corner of Hay and King streets. The building, originally an office block and then a Rydges Hotel, has been completely rebuilt, with the exception of the white façade and its distinctive rounded-corner windows. Top architects Woods Bagot and design studio Chada have cleverly filled the space with airy, light-filled interiors that give off an elegant, residential feel.

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SUITE Our corner Club Executive Suite on the 15th floor felt so spacious it was almost suitable for entertaining. Four large windows with spanning views of the city flooded the space with natural light, emphasised by a multitude of floor-to-ceiling mirrors and glass panels. A standalone feature wall served as both a King-size bedhead and bathroom wall, cleverly extending the bathroom out into the main space while maintaining an element of privacy. The favourite was the large wet room-style bathroom, with both a standalone bathtub

and rain shower in a glassed-off area. The Suite also featured a dedicated living space, workstation and large walk-in wardrobe.

LOCALE The hotel opens on to Hay Street, right in the heart of Perth’s CBD. His Majesty’s Theatre, home to the West Australia Opera and West Australia Ballet, is right on the hotel’s doorstep, and luxury retailers such as Chanel and Gucci line the adjoining King Street. The surrounding blocks offer a maze of graffiti-filled laneways, teeming with cafes and hidden bars. King’s Park, the

buzzing gentrified suburb of Northbridge and the revitalised Elizabeth Quay complex are all within an easy walking distance.

LOOK AND FEEL Opening last October, everything about the hotel is new, with an emphasis on open, light-filled spaces. Plush, sophisticated interiors in hues of grey, taupe and bronze are brightened by metallic touches and large, statement artworks by local artists.

There has been an effort to bring the outside in; large, open-air terrace balconies feature vertical gardens, events-focused

cooking stations and lounges, while the two hotel restaurants on the ground floor encourage indoor-outdoor dining by spilling on to the main street.

EAT IN The InterContinental Perth’s food offerings are run independently of the hotel, in an attempt to separate them from the common perception of the traditional mundane hotel restaurant. So far this seems to be successful; food-truck concept eatery Graffiti, which operates out of a roller door, has corporates lining up for their morning coffee while

casual tapas bar Heno & Rey is surprisingly packed for a Monday afternoon. Upmarket Spanish grill Ascua features an impressive open kitchen and a generous display of aged charcuterie and The Loft Lounge serves alfresco cocktails, pastries and high tea.

SPECIAL TOUCHES Those staying in higher-tiered rooms have access to the dedicated InterContinental Club lounge on the 16th floor. Accessible via their room key, the lounge serves complimentary à la Carte breakfast, afternoon tea and evening canapés and drinks.

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Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi PRESTIGE SUITE S i z e : 6 4 m 2 / P r i c e : A $ 10 6 5 p e r n i g h t i n c l u d i n g b r e a k f a s t / R e v i e w e d b y K e l l y A l l e n / D e t a i l s : s o f i t e l . c o m

HOTEL This French Colonial property built in 1901 oozes old-school glamour with its rich history and stellar service. Conveniently located in Hanoi’s French Quarter and surrounded by leafy boulevards, it feels slightly removed from the surrounding chaos of scooters and taxis. The hotel’s white stucco façade with green shutters, and the vintage Citroen Traction Avant at the front entrance, are a nod to its French heritage. (You can take a chauffeured city tour in the Traction Avant if you are so inclined). Inside is a large courtyard with a garden, pool and several outdoor dining areas, creating the calm environment one might seek after a day in bustling Hanoi.

SUITE The Prestige Suite features neo-classical design with dark timber floors and bold accents in red, black and white. The large ensuite with a French-style freestanding tub, separate shower, mosaic tiles, and marble basins is particularly inviting. Sofitel’s exclusive MyBed, with a down and feather mattress, is world renowned for comfort. All Suites come with Club Metropole benefits such as butler service, internet, afternoon tea, cocktails and late check out (if available). The dark green bottles of Hermès amenities are a thoughtful touch.

LOCALE The Hoan Kiem Lake district, which includes the French Quarter, is a hub for locals and tourists alike. With its wide footpaths and lakeside gardens bustling with tai chi, aerobics and plenty of bridal parties with their photographers, it is one of the best hangouts for people watching. The nearby Hanoi Opera House was built in the early 1900s and can be seen from some of the rooms. The Vietnam National Museum of History is also just a few steps away.

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LOOK AND FEEL Both a historic landmark and a luxury hotel, the Sofitel Legend Metropole is the oldest continuously operating hotel in Vietnam.

The 364 rooms and suites are divided into two wings, the opera wing (with larger, more contemporary rooms) and the historic wing (smaller rooms with plenty of charm). The bellboys with their brimless caps and the female staff in traditional ao dai (a white silk tunic worn over trousers) and hat are a reminder of days gone by.

EAT IN There are several dining options including multi-award winning Le Beaulieu, known for its French cuisine. Spices Garden serves Vietnamese dishes with a French twist, while Angelina offers an Italian/Mediterraneaninspired menu, led by chef Olivier Génique.

From 9pm, Angelina turns up the volume with a resident DJ. Le Club Bar with its 1920s speakeasy feel offers afternoon tea and evening jazz. The beachy vibe of Bamboo Bar, with its thatched roof and wooden floor, is the perfect spot to relax with a poolside cocktail, and street-side Parisian brasserie La Terrasse puts visitors in the heart of Hanoi’s vibrant urban life.

TREAT YOURSELF The three-level, 400-square-metre Spa du Metropole looks over the hotel’s courtyard and pool. Spa products are sourced both locally and internationally and include essences especially created by a renowned Grasse parfumier. There are two couples’ suites and six rooms for individuals. Extended opening hours (10am-10pm) means more time for pampering. SoFIT is the hotel’s fitness centre and one of the best in Hanoi.

It is equipped with Life Fitness bikes and Lifestride advanced cardio equipment; personal training is also available.

SPECIAL TOUCHES One of the unique offerings is the daily Path of History tour where guests can learn not only the hotel’s history, but also visit the war-time air-raid shelter, which was only rediscovered in 2011. This tour is complimentary and takes about an hour.

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Magic Carpet Ride F R E YA H E R R I N G I S G I V E N T H E R E D - C A R P E T T R E AT M E N T I N THE SMALL BUT CHARMING TURKISH VILLAGE OF ETRIM

WE’RE SITTING CROSS-LEGGED ON ORNATE, AGED CARPETS, the sunlight dappling our backs through grapevines above and around us, the smell of bread baking on a wood fire, and a Turkish grandmother cooking us lunch.

We don’t know it yet, but we’re about to buy two carpets from this beguiling woman in this magnificent scene. It may well be the best sales pitch ever – the setting does, after all, feel surreal – but it’s impossible to care while eating steaming hot zucchini-feta gözleme, made with homegrown vegetables and handed to us with such love and care. We’re in Etrim, a tiny village a half-hour drive northeast of Bodrum on the Turkish Riviera, but it feels hundreds of kilometres away from that bustling tourist hub. Our hotel, the new LUX Bodrum, organised this day trip, arranging for us to be picked up

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at the resort and chauffeured to this historic village in the mountains.

We are greeted by Engin Basol, who grew up here. He tells us that his family, indeed all of Etrim’s residents, have been making rugs and carpets for hundreds of years – day in, day out.

We are introduced to his mother and house matriarch Unmahan Basol. The 60-year-old is wrapped in a beautiful, richly coloured cloth, befitting of a life spent devoted to fabric. She sits down on the floor to weave while we drink piping hot, red Turkish tea and watch in silence.

We see her hands twitching over yarn, the clicking sound repetitive and soothing, as Engin explains the history of carpet making. He also offers some insight into the process: about how the weaver does not prepare the pattern in advance; instead they work it out as they go, so each carpet is unique.

Like her ancestors before her, Unmahan Basol has dedicated her life to the art of weaving carpets, of which no two are ever the same.

We hear about how only the women in the village are weavers, and how they forage for local herbs – wild lavender, meadow root and walnut shells – to dye the raw wool, which they card, spin and dye themselves.

“Just to make the material for one carpet takes five days,” says Engin. “We are dyeing them naturally with vegetables. We cannot repeat the colours.”

We learn about the significance of each piece: “A carpet is not just for walking on. It means a lot more than this. Every pattern has a meaning.”

If you see branches, he tells us, they represent the Tree of Life; scorpions symbolise pride; a sheaf of wheat infers abundance, wealth or fertility; and eyes seek to ward off the Evil Eye. After we try a bit of weaving (which, of course, is far more difficult than it looks), we wander to a room filled with carpets – red, orange, blue and gold – from the floors and all the way up the walls, with one side wide open to a verdant garden.

Unmahan is already in the corner by the fireplace, rolling out dough and pressing in fresh zucchini and handmade cheese, before folding it together like a pillowcase and throwing each one on the flames. She shows us how to do it, and we make some too, with her guidance.

We eat the bread with Unmahan, and are then brought an entire feast to eat alone – eggplant roasted and flecked with parsley; vine

leaf dolma slicked with oil; crisp pastry cigars, and cool salted yoghurt – along with delicious, light, locally made wine.

Once sated, we are shown inside to look through the finished carpets, some of which are centuries old. We end up buying one aged 80 years, all rich golds and deep reds, and a pale blue kilim (a tapestry-woven carpet), too.

Engin asks if we want to see his village, and as we walk around its dry, crumbling walls, he introduces us to elderly ladies whose lives, too, have been spent working a loom.

Their homes are small and simple; white-washed walls and porches where the women sit outside looking out to surroundings that have barely changed in centuries. One of them gives us a roughly hewn chunk of olive oil soap – the only thing to wash your carpet with.

We wander off – soap on our hands, carpets under our arms – silently intoxicated by this quiet, special place.

Perhaps our souvenirs will bring this sense of calm to the organised chaos of our contemporary lives. Back home, we lay them out on the floor – and wait.

THE DETAILS For bookings or more information, visit luxresorts.com and etrimvillage.com.

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L U X U RY T R AV E L M AG A Z I N E

Spring 2018

On sale August 30

Islands in the Sun

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The Bus Departing Finolhu…

IT’S NOT EVERY DAY A LONDON BUS pulls into a tropical island, but Finolhu is not your everyday kind of island. This whimsical replica of a classic red British double-decker is actually a “private destination movie bus” that guests can hire on the tiny Maldivian island of Finolhu for a fun evening on a secluded sandbank. The creative brains behind this (and other) quirky concepts is Australian Mark Hehir, founder of The Small Maldives Island Co., comprising a trio of fabulous properties – Huvafen Fushi, Amilla Fushi and their “naughty” baby sister Finolhu – all playing happily in the Indian Ocean. Each resort island offers a different luxury travel experience, but all are the essence of contemporary island chic. And no, the bus doesn’t take Oyster cards. tsmic.mv

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Luxury Reimagined Following the completion of a $40 million renovation, Sydney’s most iconic five-star hotel, Sheraton on the Park, offers an enticing new era of luxury and elegance. With an acclaimed Club Lounge, restaurant and spa, we offer a timeless base in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. Learn more at sheratonsydney.com or call +61 2 9286 6000.

Sheraton on the Park, 161 Elizabeth Street, Sydney. * © 2018 Marriott International, Inc. All rights reserved.

Shop 3035, Level 3, Westfield Sydney (02) 8203 0901

L UX U RY T R AVE L #74 / W I N T E R 2 0 1 8

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