Luxury Travel Magazine - Issue 71

L I V E T H E MOM E N T oneandonlypalmilla.com

L I V E T H E MOM E N T oneandonlywolganvalley.com

CONTENTS

41 73

HELSINKI

DRIVE BENTLEY

105

OREGON

B E V E R LY HILLS

DALLAS

CUBA

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

137 153 189

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PUGLIA

DESTINATION 0 42 SRI LANKA | 0 47 LADAKH | 054 PUGLIA | 060 ARMENIA | 066 HELSINKI

JOURNEY

074 SEVEN SEAS EXPLORER | 078 EUROPA 2 | 083 TRUE NORTH ADVENTURE CRUISES 088 BELMOND ANDEAN EXPLORER | 09 4 DRIVE BENTLEY

EXPERIENCE 106 WALK TASMANIA | 112 TOUR IRAN | 114 MAIN EVENT | 118 SHOP DALLAS 124 GOLF OREGON | 128 SKI AUSTRALIA | 132 SAFARI AFRICA

RENEW

TAIPEI

138 SURF PAPUA NEW GUINEA | 142 BEVERLY HILLS

STAY

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

BALI

154 MEXICO | 158 CUBA | 162 JERVIS BAY | 166 FIJI

SAVOUR

fiji

ULURU

JERVIS BAY

TASMANIA

191 CHEF'S GUIDE TAIPEI | 194 ULURU | 198 BALI

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CONTENTS

014 DISPATCHES

026 COVER STORY: SMALL WONDERS

024 WHAT TO PACK

092 RAIL NEWS

086 CRUISE NEWS 098 HIGH FLYER NEWS

202 CREATIVE TRAVELLER

173 SUITE LIFE

THE TEAM

GARY ALLEN

EXECUTIVE EDITOR/ MANAGING DIRECTOR gary@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

KATIE MILTON EDITOR

kmilton@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

LUCY JONES

CONTRIBUTING

EDITOR

GRACE SMITH

E D I TO R I A L A SS I STA N T / D I G I TA L CO N T E N T M A N AG E R gsmith@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

SIOBHAN PLOWMAN STA F F

WRITER

splowman@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

H E A LT H

KELLY ALLEN

&

WELLNESS

WRITER

KYLE SANSBURY ART

DIRECTOR

design@luxurytravelmedia.com.au

RICHARD BUNTING

GENERAL MANAGER / MANAGING EDITOR rbunting@luxurytravelmedia.com.au +61 4 24128806

TOM HACHENBERG

BUSINESS

DEVELOPMENT

MANAGER

thachenberg@luxurytravelmedia.com.au +61 4 19 4124 81

NATASHA DRAGUN SUB

EDITOR

ANDREW McEVOY

EXECUTIVE

DIRECTOR

Published by: Magnesium Media ABN 86 066 598 427 Level 11, 66 Clarence Street, Sydney NSW 2000 Australia Tel: +61 2 8705 5463 Distribution and Subscription enquiries: AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND Luxury Travel magazine Tel: +61 2 8705 5463 Email: subscriptions@luxurytravelmedia.com.au Web: luxurytravelmedia.com.au/subscribe Directors Robin and Scott Venturelli Cover Illustration David Doran Email: daviddoran.co.uk

CONTRIBUTORS

THIS ISSUE, WE ASKED FOUR OF OUR CONTRIBUTORS TO TELL US WHAT THEY NEVER TRAVEL WITHOUT.

CHRISTINA GEYER

La Mer skin cream, all their products come in carry-on sizes, so it’s perfect for rehydrating post-flight; my Leatherology notebook as travelling inspires writing, note-taking, and no end of good journal entries; and my small quilted Chanel crossbody bag, because it’s big enough for the essentials but small enough to not get in the way.

You can read Christina’s guide to shopping in Dallas on page 118.

VICTORIA ALLEN

SUE WATT

TAYLOR CONACHER

A big wide scarf. I get freezing on planes and I’ll use it as a blanket, wrap it around my face as a sleeping mask, or bunch it up and use it as a pillow. Super versatile and never regret bringing it!

This might sound bizarre but I always pack my little beanbag Labrador dog Holly! When my partner and I went travelling for a year, first in Nepal and then across Africa, we left our real Lab Holly with my parents. I was so upset, he bought me the beanbag version. She’s been travelling with us ever since.

I never leave the house, let alone the country, without at least a few sketchbooks, pens and a disposable camera. I love to find quiet moments to document my travels through drawing, writing and collecting mementos.

You can read Victoria’s travel beauty tips on page 146.

You can read Sue’s insights into ethical safaris and animal conservation on page 132.

Spot Taylor’s illustrations throughout the magazine and in our Chef ’s Guide to Taipei on page 191.

CONTRIBUTORS THIS ISSUE BEENA HAMMOND | BELINDA LUKSIC | BELINDA JACKSON | CRAIG TANSLEY | CHRISTINA GEYER | SUE WATT | KEVIN PILLEY | LARA BRUNT | ELIZABETH WOOD | NATASHA DRAGUN | NICK WALTON | RODERICK EIM

A haven in the heart of Melbourne. Impeccable hospitality, timeless elegance, classic luxury. Overlooking the banks of the Yarra River, an idyllic urban haven. The Langham, Melbourne is the perfect accessory over the Melbourne Cup Carnival. Only a short trip to Flemington Racecourse, you’ll find one of the world’s great events where racegoers are immersed in fashion and culture.

Book now to experience the carnival in the heart of Melbourne.

1 Southgate Avenue, Southbank, Victoria T (613) 8696 8888 langhamhotels.com/melbourne The Langham, Melbourne

ISSUE #71 / SPRING 2017

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

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ersonalisation, human connection and the quest for authentic experiences are some of the qualities that drive today’s luxury traveller. We find these special touches in bespoke itineraries, experience-based activities and, more often than not, in small independently owned hotels. These properties can be remote hideaways or quirky hotels disguised as local residences in the centre of a major city, but they are always endearingly distinctive in their aesthetic. The experience they offer may be smaller in terms of scale and grandeur, but the commitment to personal service and strong sense of place often exceeds that of any five-star hotel chain.

FOLLOW US ON:

TWITTER@LUXURYTRAVELAU

Our cover story this issue takes you across six continents with our pick of some of the best luxury hotels, resorts, camps and lodges with under 10 rooms. Whether it’s five staff members per guest, private villas designed to their billionaire founders’ tastes, or the feeling of being a guest in a home rather than a hotel, each of these properties offer an exceptional level of personalisation.

We also take you on a high altitude adventure through the mountainous and beautiful Ladakh, (page 047), give you a luxury guide to Helsinki as Finland celebrates 100 years of independence (page 066), and safari expert Sue Watt looks at the ethics behind animal tourism and details the new and exciting ways that travellers can be actively involved in conservation efforts (page 132).

Luxury travel is evolving, and we alongside it. As Luxury Travel Media we will continue to bring you the most up to date luxury travel news and inspiration not only in print, but also across our social and digital channels. And soon, you will be able to book exclusive Luxury Travel packages and properties direct from our INSTAGRAM@LUXURYTRAVELAU

website. Alongside this digital development comes the evolution of our magazine. You will notice some big changes, in the sections, the content, but most importantly in the design.

We are so thrilled to integrate original illustrations by artist Taylor Conacher into this issue and issues to come.

We want your copy of Luxury Travel to be treasured as your own personal directory to five-star adventures in the world’s most exciting destinations.

We always love to hear from you and learn more about our readers, so we’ve also attached a reader survey on the last page. Or you can go online and fill it out at: luxurytravelmedia.com/readersurvey Thanks for continuing to flip through our pages.

Katie Milton

FACEBOOK.COM/LUXURYTRAVELMAGAZINE

PINTEREST.COM/LUXURYTRAVELAU

India Tourism Sydney Level 1, 133 Castlereagh Street (Also accessible from 210 Pitt Street) Sydney, NSW 2000 T: +612 92672466 : E: info@indiatourism.com.au www.incredibleindia.org

DISPATCHES

MACQ 01

TALES FROM

TASMANIA

K AT I E M I LT O N TA K E S IN HOBART’S NEW ‘ S TO R Y T E L L I N G H OT E L’ IN THE MIDST OF RITUAL BONFIRES, HELICOPTER PY R OT EC H N I C S A N D P E R F O R M A N C E A R T.

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s the winter solstice rolls into the sleepy city of Hobart, David Walsh’s winter arts festival Dark Mofo descends. It bleeds into the waterfront and inhabits Macquarie Point, bringing with it ritual bonfires, swarms of arty tourists and curious Tasmanian locals. This year it coincided with Tasmania’s most anticipated luxury hotel opening in more than a decade, MACq 01, the official hotel partner for the 2017 festival.

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www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au WAT E R F R ON T V I E W

T H E L OB B Y F IR EPL AC E

The latest property from the Federal Group, the team behind luxury eco-lodge Saffire Freycinet and art-centric Henry Jones Art Hotel, MACq 01 is a ‘storytelling hotel’, a concept that has been built from tourism market research. What draws visitors to the clean air and small-town feel of Tasmania? Arts and culture, and the local produce. But the biggest pull is the local residents and their real-life stories.

With this knowledge, the Federal Group sent two researchers on a six-month trip around Tasmania to visit small towns and communities where they unearthed the local heroes that each of the hotel’s 114 rooms are now based on.

My Executive Waterfront Suite has been designed to embody the colourful and quirky Tasmanian character (one of five categorised traits decided on by the hotel). The key theme of MACq 01 is local. The bed features a specially commissioned headboard by Tasmanian artist Troy Ruffels, who made a series of digi-

STAY Rates start from A$535 per night for a Waterfront Room. macq01.com.au

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TA F F Y T H E BE E M A N

Imbued with a strong sense of place in both design and concept, MACq 01 has been named and modelled after the old shipping shed, Macquarie Wharf Shed 1, which previously occupied the prime waterfront position. A classic Scandinavian mix of glass and timber, the exterior of the pitched-roofed structure has been built with white cypress, with the intention that the building will age to the same patina as the wharf beneath it.

I encounter my first local Tasmanian hero in the lift, where more than 15 of the MACq 01 character voices are on rotation. Intrigued, I continue on, passing the room of Taffy the Bee Man (aka Helmer Henry Hastings Huxley), a 1930s Tasmanian beekeeper interpreted by the MACq 01 illustrator as a kind-eyed man with a flowering beard. Then I come to my suite, home of Francois Fouche, more commonly known as Big Frank – a professional wrestler and one-time bodyguard to Shirley Temple.

tal collages depicting the Tasmanian landscape; the pre-mixed Negronis in the minibar are by Hobart distillery Süd Polaire; and the furniture is made by local craftsmen. The real hero, however, is the space, realised in the expansive bathroom and the outdoor balcony complete with a set of quoits. The sloping design of the rooftop offers uninterrupted views of the waterfront.

A MACq 01 butler attends to guests in each of the 27 suites. Young but eager to assist, Sam is readily on call, with each turndown service accompanied by a hand-signed letter detailing the Dark Mofo activities of the day and information on the hotel’s various tours and offerings. Among them is the chance to be shown around the hotel’s character rooms with one of the three resident ‘storytellers’, a brewery tour at the local Hobart Brewing Company or an exploration of the historic Wapping district. This is the true MACq 01 difference – a hotel that supports the city’s cultural events, effortlessly weaving them into its own story.

The downstairs lounge gives voice to the history of Tasmania's indigenous people.

The circular stone fireplace, crafted by a local stonemason references oral storytelling, while cabinets display artefacts of the traditional Tasmanian Aboriginal toolkit.

Laminated pages from The Mercury newspaper hang at the service area in the Story Bar, and the steel and recycled wharf timbers that have been used in the design of the Old Wharf Restaurant hark back to Tasmania’s various industrial histories.

But the real beauty of the hotel is spoken at sunset, when the sky behind it turns a pastel purple and the glass front glimmers in the sinking sunlight. For its final performance of the festival, a helicopter appears in the distance and begins to duck and dive to the wailing sounds of the Siren Song being emitted from strategically placed speakers on the rooftops of surrounding buildings. This is why people come to Tasmania, and MACq 01 has by far the best view.

DISPATCHES

ALILA FORT BISHANGARH

ROYAL IN

RAJASTHAN

I

B E L I N DA JAC KS O N C H EC K S I N TO A R A J A ST H A N I FO RT-T U R N E D H O T E L , T H E N E W E S T L U X U R Y S TA Y I N I N D I A’ S G O L D E N T R I A N G L E .

t is the dead of night and a full moon lights up a long rampart. Climbing the rising path, I enter a stone gate with twometre thick walls, pass through a studded timber door and wander into the warrior fortress. Past the old war council room, past a marbled salon, up to the sanctuary of my soft-lit haven: a Grand Suite.

Drama and intrigue, wealth and war are all part of the history of this fort, built 230 years ago in Rajasthan’s Aravalli Range, an hour north of India’s Pink City, Jaipur. Today, it welcomes travellers as India’s newest boutique hotel, the Alila Fort Bishangarh. Its 59 accommodations range from Heritage Rooms to Regal Suites, which are an extravagance of marble floors, circular baths, daybeds and expansive country views.

After lying dormant for a century, it took 10 years to give this Rajasthani landmark new life under the Alila brand, best known for its four Balinese properties. The fortress is the

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second Indian property, sister to Alila Diwa Goa. Jaipur is no stranger to luxury: the city is home to some of the country’s most lavish resorts. “But we didn’t want to create another palace hotel,” developer Atul Kapur says. Rajasthan is renowned for its hill fortresses, but Fort Bishangarh, Kapur says, is the first warrior fortress to be converted to a hotel, and it wasn’t easy. After evicting bats, snakes and gunpowder from the imposing structure, they constructed the ramp that zigzags up the granite hill on which the fort stands. Inside, the decoration comes from the fort’s own ornate Mughal windows, traditional Indian block-printed fabrics, and niches displaying beautifully shaped pots.

Expect no standards: not in the room sizes – there are 22 different formats for 59 suites – and not at the reception haveli, a regal, openair tent that waits at the foot of the granite hill, looking up at the fort.

The haveli (or ‘townhouse’, which also features an attached courtyard-style building) includes the gym and infinity pool that peers over orchards and organic gardens. The gardens are abundant, and chef Rajat Chandna wanders through with me, plucking lemongrass, pomegranates and a long gourd called lauki while sharing recipes for delicious-sounding marsala eggplant. The vegetables are the stars of the hotel’s wellness menu, devised in consul-

tation with Indian celebrity chef Ranveer Brar.

I want to try as much Rajasthani food as possible, and my gastronomic journey begins each morning with a pot of marsala chai – sweet, milky tea brewed with cardamom and ginger.

At breakfast in Amarsar restaurant, I taste banana and black pepper lassi, and breakfast on daal with naan made from millet. We order wood-fired kebabs, bean salads with fenugreek, and rich lamb curries at rooftop Nazaara restaurant as the sounds of the settling village carry on the night breeze.

The fort serves up all the comforts of a fivestar hotel: Alila’s signature spa treatments in the former dungeon, whiskey blending and Indian tapas in the cosy Madhuveni bar, and tea tasting and cakes in Kachhawa lounge.

Yet for me, the true drawcard is the connection to location and history. Set off the frantic Jaipur-Delhi road, the fort is skirted by the villages it once defended, and the range of Alila experiences help guests explore. Visit Hindu pilgrim sites, prepare Rajasthani cuisine or cycle down country lanes, past fields of yellow mustard flowers and the startlingly pink saris favoured by the women of Bishangarh.

Rising above it all, the fort is a photographer’s dream. It changes as the light shifts, from the softness of dawn to the stark heat of the day and back into a languid afternoon, when its turrets turn golden in the setting sun, a sign that all is well – very well – in this world.

Rooms from A$355 per night. alilahotels.com

DISPATCHES

2017 O

2017 GOLD LIST AWARDS WRAP UP

ur annual reader-voted Gold List Awards recognise the best in luxury destinations, properties and travel operators around Australia and overseas. Now in their 13th year, the 2017 awards were our most successful to date with over 6,000 votes and a number of reader favourites achieving Hall of Fame status, having won their respective categories for five or more consecutive years. This year, the winners of the most popular categories were announced live from the Park Hyatt Sydney with special guest

Andrew McEvoy, and all of our 35 winners celebrated with an intimate dinner at Sofitel Wentworth Sydney.

We would like to extend a big thank you to all of our partners; One&Only and Intercontinental Bali Resort for our fantastic voter prizes; Park Hyatt Sydney for hosting our winners announcement; Sofitel Wentworth Sydney for hosting our spectacular winners dinner and Atout France and Hunt Leather for providing our winner gifts on the night. luxurytravelmedia.com.au/gold-list-2017

ICELAND’S COOL NEW STAY

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esign Hotels has announced the opening of a luxury boutique hotel in Reykjavik. Sister to the ION Adventure Hotel, the 18room ION City Hotel sits in a renovated building, designed with a combination of contemporary and traditional styles. Aluminium panels resembling a traditional Icelandic sweater decorate

the exterior and an abstract mural over the courtyard illustrates the country’s landscape. The three suites each feature a private sauna and balcony looking out to the city, and guests in the Panorama Suite can hire a private bartender or chef. Rates start from €386 (about A$577) per night. designhotels.com

MGALLERY MAKES ITS MARK

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he Sydney CBD will see a new luxury hotel open on the corner of Bathurst and Castlereagh Street by late 2020. Designed by Candalepas Associates architects, the 36-storey Porter House Hotel, MGallery by Sofitel will have 121 rooms on the first nine floors and 131 residential apartments on the upper floors. The adjacent heritage-listed Porter House will also be redeveloped as part of the project. The hotel will feature a fourth floor bar with rotating art gallery, pool, fitness centre and two restaurants. sofitel.com www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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DISPATCHES

UNDERWATER LOVE

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BALI’S NEW-LOOK BELLE

he Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay has relaunched following a two-year renovation. Designed by the Indonesian firm Jaya International, the revamped accommodation and facilities include a contemporary design while preserving the traditional Balinese architecture. All

CIRCULAR LOGIC

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ighly anticipated fivestar hotel The Fontenay will open on the banks of Alster Lake in Hamburg this October. The hotel will feature 131 rooms and suites with scenic views of the lake and city. Hamburg architect Jan Störmer designed the hotel in the shape of threeinterlocking circles with tall curving walls and open spaces.

Each room will have custommade furniture and large windows letting in natural light.

The hotel is now taking reservations, and rates start from €355 (about A$530) per night. thefontenay.de

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147 pool villas were renovated with refurbished exterior and interior design elements in addition to new furniture and electronics.

The resort has also introduced the exclusive Imperial Villa, a multi-story oceanfront villa featuring a private infinity pool and fitness studio. fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay

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ake your holiday videos to a whole new level. An underwater drone is going into production and will start deliveries in September. Designed by robot company Robosea, BIKI is the first bionic underwater drone, and looks and acts like a fish. Using dolphin-like echolocation, BIKI uses its 4K camera to track objects. Started as a project on Kickstarter, BIKI raised its $20,000 goal in 10 hours and will soon be available for US$1,024 (about A$1,292). mybiki.com

INTO THE WILD

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ildlife expert Matt Wright has launched the Wetland Safari Camp, an exclusive glamping tour in the outback. Situated one hour southwest of Darwin, the camp features private luxury tents and a communal Star Deck with a bar. An airboat will take guests into the rainforest to see dangerous wildlife such as saltwater crocodiles and wild boars. Afterwards, guests will join Wright on a helicopter flight back to camp for a gourmet BBQ under the stars.

The all-inclusive one-night tour starts from A$725 per person. mattwright.com.au DA R W IN L IF E M AG A ZIN E/ A A R ON AV IL A

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THE GREATEST DAY

ime-strapped travellers can now book a one-day trip to Antarctica on a private Gulfstream jet.

White Desert Antarctica will operate the service from Cape Town, South Africa, to Whichaway Camp, serving cocktails garnished with thousand year old glacial ice during the five and a half hour jour-

ney. After landing on a blue ice runway, guests will spend eight hours exploring the continent, including a drive to one of the smallest and least visited Antarctic oases, Schirmacher Oasis. Prices for the Greatest Day trip start at US$195,000 (about A$245,720) for a 14-person aircraft. white-desert.com

A TASTE OF KANGAROO ISLAND

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angaroo Island Odysseys has launched a new series of threeday Food and Wine Tours, with a different itinerary for each season.

Highlights of the tours include the Shearers Feast – a three-course degustation of local produce hosted in an 80 year old shearing shed built from sugar gum trees and old corrugated iron – as well as a unique Table Surfing dinner where local farmers or producers will

host an intimate dinner at their own home. Guests will also experience private vineyard tours, a cheese tasting at the Island Pure Sheep Dairy, a fresh oyster feast at the Kangaroo Island Shellfish Oyster Farm Shop and a half-day fishing charter. The tours will launch in September 2017 and are priced from A$1,820 per person, depending on the itinerary and season. kangarooislandodysseys.com.au

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HOLLYWOOD CALLING

he new Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills opened its doors in June at the intersection of Wilshire and Santa Monica boulevards. Just a 10-minute walk from Rodeo Drive, the 12-storey hotel houses 170 rooms, a renowned La Prairie Spa and a Jean-Georges restaurant named after Michelin-starred head chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Each of the rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows and a balcony while the Villa Suites offer a private terrace with panoramic views of the Hollywood Hills. Rooms start from US$695 (about A$878) per night. waldorfastoriabeverlyhills.com www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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DISPATCHES

JOIN THE STYLE TRIBE

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ustralia’s fledgling hotel brand TRIBE has opened its 126room debut property in West Perth, just around the corner from Kings Park. A newcomer on the hotel scene, TRIBE offers ‘accessible luxury’ with an emphasis on bespoke design, modern technology and fashionable food. The result is a venue that feels less like a traditional hotel and more like a mix between a creative workspace and a bar or restaurant.

The nine-storey hotel is the first in Australia to use a modular construction technique, meaning that each room is pre-fabricated in China, shipped to Australia and installed on site. These custom-designed rooms are extremely compact, but are fitted with premium linens, signature cotton throws and a Smart TV, while the bathroom contains

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SITTING PRETTY IN POTTS POINT

rom the outside, Spicers Retreats’ new boutique hotel is almost indistinguishable from the chic residences lining Sydney’s leafy Victoria Street. But the once modest suburban interiors have now been transformed into 20 luxury hotel rooms, complete with a lobby, breakfast space and bar.

The hotel started life as three separate terrace houses in the late 1880s and many of the building’s historic features have been preserved with the addition of modern design elements.

Rooms are decorated in a neutral palette with gold and marble accents, while coastal artworks adorn the walls, paying homage to Sydney’s beach culture. Those staying in a Victoria Terrace Suite can take their morning coffee on the street-facing verandah, just like a Potts Point local.

While the hotel offers breakfast and a small bar, the venue has no restaurant, instead urging guests to explore the neighbourhood’s award-winning eateries. The Potts Point dining scene was one of the key motivations behind Spicers’ location choice, while the luxury boutiques, waterside parks and close proximity to the CBD add to the suburb’s appeal. Rates for the Bed and Breakfast package at Spicers Potts Point start from A$359 per night. spicersretreats.com/spicers-potts-point

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Kevin Murphy products for guests to use in their rainfall shower.

Rather than remaining in their rooms, however, guests are encouraged to spend their time working or socialising in the hotel’s ground-level common areas, which feature statement chairs by Italian furniture designer Moroso, Jean-Paul Gaultier cushions, contemporary Australian artworks and, most importantly, fast, unlimited WiFi. The multi-purpose area also serves as the venue’s dining and drinking space, serving barista coffee, cold-pressed juices and a seasonal cafe menu created by celebrity chef Tobie Puttock.

TRIBE plans to open properties in Adelaide, Hobart and Melbourne over the next year. tribehotels.com.au

THE TALK OF TASMANIA L IM INA L A RC H I T E C T UR E

more from mona

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obart’s resident entrepreneur, and the man behind MONA, David Walsh has released plans for his new luxury waterfront hotel, HoMo. Elevated above the Derwent River, the five-star hotel will feature 172 rooms, a spa, a library, indoor theatre facilities,

and a concert stage and lawn area. Keeping an affiliation with the arts, a number of special experience rooms will be developed with a selection of internationally renowned artists. The plans for HoMo are currently awaiting council approval. mona.net.au/museum/homo

sustainable redevelopment

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ork has begun on the expansion of award-winning Freycinet Lodge in Tasmania. To make way for nine additional waterfront pods made of curved glass and natural timbers, the existing waterfront cabins will be dismantled by hand and the materials reused on site. In order to have minimal environmental impact the pods will be constructed off site; the elements will then be brought to the property where they will be fitted to the landscape. The renovation will also see the addition of six new pavilions and a lift with an accessible suite in the main lodge building. freycinetlodge.com.au

dramatic design

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new A$90million luxury clifftop resort on the plateau of Table Cape in the northwest of Tasmania has just received council approval. Designed by Sydney-based architects Silvester Fuller and landscape architects ASPECT Studios, the building will fuse structure and landscape, with the sustainable and contemporary design featuring rectangular boxes that emerge from the hillside.

Construction is slated to begin in 2019. silvesterfuller.com

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DISPATCHES

EYE ON THE BALL

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lay a stylish round of beach tennis with Chanel’s new bat and ball set, part of the brand’s monochrome sports collection. Just the thing for the sand at St. Barts. The set is priced at A$4,860. chanel.com.

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LUXURY IN THE OUTBACK

uxury desert camp Longitude 131° has just reopened following a complete refurbishment. Renovations include the construction of the Dune Pavilion, the only suite at the resort offering a view of both Uluru and Kata Tjuta, and the camp's first dedicated spa offering LI’TYA spa treatments. The main Dune House has also been redesigned and will feature work by indigenous artists from the Ernabella Arts community. longitude131.com.au

LOUIS VUITTON TAKES ITS TIME

L PORSCHE DIVES IN

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uxury yacht builder Dynamiq has partnered with Studio FA Porsche to create a series of limited-edition superyachts. With an all-aluminium exterior inspired by Porsche sports cars and available in a selection of their signature colours, the yachts will feature three or

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four luxury cabins. The first in the series, the GTT 115, is under construction in Italy and will make its debut at the 2017 Monaco Yacht Show. The GTT 115 starts at €11.9 million (about A$17.8 million) with a 15-month delivery time. bedynamiq.com

ouis Vuitton is bringing its original watch design into the future, with the release of a smartwatch modelled off the classic Tambour timepiece. Available in graphite, monogram or black, with 60 detachable straps, the Android Wear 2.0 watch has two exclusive features in addition to standard smartwatch functionality. The My Flight function provides travellers with flight times, terminal and delay information, and the number of hours remaining before landing, while the City Guide feature uses geolocation to suggest nearby restaurants, hotels and landmarks hand-selected by Louis Vuitton. louisvuitton.com

MELBOURNE TO GET A MO

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andarin Oriental Hotel Group is set to open its first Australian property in 2023.

The Mandarin Oriental, Melbourne, will be in a new Zaha Hadid-designed tower on Collins Street with 196 luxury guestrooms and suites, and 148 private residences, plus a rooftop terrace and spa. mandarinoriental.com

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BLINK AND YOU’LL MISS IT

ravellers can now spend the night in ultra remote locations (often only accessible by helicopter) with Blink, an innovative and eco-conscious pop-up luxury accommodation experience. Destinations include the coastal areas of Oman, a sandbank on the Mekong River, the Bolivian Altiplano and the southern tip of Inle Lake in Myanmar.

Each Blink itinerary is bespoke, offering travellers the freedom to choose between one of seven tented accommodation types including a canvas tent, dome tent, bubble tent, bell tent, tropical villa tent, yurt or

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lodge tent, each suited to various landscapes and climates. The interiors of the tents are then curated in line with guests’ requests and set up for two to five nights in each destination. To ensure the tents do not impact the surrounding landscape they are raised on platforms and the energy and hot water is powered by renewable energy sources such as solar and wind.

Rates for a three-night Blink experience in Morocco start from £8,800 (about A$14,666) per person, based on six travellers. blacktomato.com/blink

FALLING FOR FIJI

remium air transport service Island Hoppers has recently launched new tandem skydiving experiences in Fiji. Skydivers can jump from a chosen height of 8,000, 10,000 or 14,000 feet from

the company’s new P-750 XSTOL custom-built aircraft and will land at a drop zone on Denarau Island. Rates start from FJ$525 (about A$330), and include transfers and refreshments. freefallfiji.com www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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DISPATCHES

WHAT TO PACK

SPRING FLING

I N S P I R AT I O N : A T R U E H O L LY W O O D L E G E N D , T H E B E V E R LY H I L L S H O T E L I S O V E R 1 0 0 Y E A R S O L D. I T S I C O N I C PA S T E L P I N K A N D G R E E N C O L O U R S C H E M E D AT E S B A C K T O T H E 1 9 4 0 S A N D H A S B E E N FA I T H F U L LY M A I N TA I N E D THROUGHOUT NUMEROUS REFURBISHMENTS. C A L I F O R N I A D R E A M I N G AT I T S F I N E S T.

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8 1 Tod’s Double T Gommino Driving Shoes, A$735, 02 8203 0901 | 2 Yoga Design Lab Travel Mat in Labyrinth, US$49 (about A$62), yogadesignmat.com | 3 Paravel Motorist 3-in-1 Backpack, US$315 (about A$398), tourparavel.com | 4 Maui Jim Monstera Leaf sunglasses in Guava Pink with Rose Gold, A$599, mauijim.com | 5 This Is Ground Bank Bag, US$695 (about A$880), thisisground.com | 6 Burberry Peony Rose Print grainy leather luggage tag, available in pink and blue, A$420, burberry.com | 7 The Beach People The Wategos round beach towel, A$110, thebeachpeople.com.au | 8 Kreafunk aHead wireless headphones with Bluetooth, A$175, until.com.au www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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Alongside the yearning for authentic travel experiences comes the rise of boutique hotels, independently owned properties f o c u s i n g o n i n d i v i d u a l i t y, p e r s o n a l s e r v i c e a n d a s t r o n g s e n s e of place. They are the antithesis of the cookie cutter aesthetic of many large hotel chains and offer guests an unrivalled experience, one that allows them to connect with their surroundings in a way that isn’t possible on the 14th floor of a 500 room hotel. It's a global trend: last year Small Luxury H o t e l s o f t h e Wo r l d re p o r t e d a n o t i c e a b l e d e c re a s e i n t h e average amount of rooms in their new signings – from 48 down t o 2 8 – s t a t i n g d e c i d e d l y t h a t i n 2 0 1 7, s m a l l e r i s b i g g e r .

With this in mind we’ve compiled a list of the most luxurious and remote properties around the globe with 10 or less rooms.

And what they may lack in size, they more than make up for in style and substance.

SMALL

WONDERS

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w w wN . lIM u xMO u r By AY t rW a vILe DE l mReNE d iSaS . Rc EoSmOR . aT,u C A NA DA

AUSTRALIA NSW PRETTY

BEACH

HOUSE

VILLA Bouddi National Park | Rooms: 4 Rates: from A$1,000 per person per night twin share The feel: BUSHLAND HIDEAWAY REBORN. Tucked away amidst ancient angophoras and towering eucalypts, this Central Coast classic has a uniquely Australian blend of sophisticated elegance and casual cool.

You’ll love the sandstone-edged infinity pool overlooking a sparkling bay and the wood-fired pizza oven in the garden.

The highlight: Guests are welcomed with an indigenous ‘Welcome to Country’ smoking ceremony, part of the property’s philosophy of creating authentic experiences.

The room: The one-bedroom Retreat is split over two levels and has its own heated plunge pool, double day bed and private terrace. prettybeachhouse.com CAPELLA

LODGE

LODGE Lord Howe Island | Rooms: 9 Rates: from A$750 per person per night twin share The feel: BEACH HOUSE CHIC. Hidden among the pristine environment of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this secret beach hideaway gives guests prime access to the island’s beaches and adventure trails.

The highlight: Chef Cooper Dickson sources most of his ingredients from the island and, if they can’t be found, uses only produce from New South Wales.

The room: The two-storey Lidgbird Pavilion has a private plunge pool, freestanding outdoor bathtub set beneath a frangipani tree and the exclusive use of an electric buggy. lordhowe.com

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PR E T T Y BE AC H HOU S E

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VIC

SPICERS SANGOMA R E T R E AT

DRIFT

COUNTRY Blue Mountains | Rooms: 8 Rates: from A$1,099 per night twin share

COUNTRY Port Fairy | Rooms: 4 Rates: from A$395 per night twin share

The feel: ESCAPE TO THE MOUNTAINS. Picture exposed wood and stone surfaces, plush fur throws and crystal chandeliers surrounded by native bushland – plus complimentary Veuve Cliquot in the minibar.

The highlight: The seasonal four-course dinner is served under the stars in summer or you can rug up and toast marshmallows by the open fire during the colder months.

The room: From the upstairs bedroom in the Chief’s Suite you can see all the way to the Sydney skyline on a clear day. spicersretreats.com/spicers-sangoma-retreat

The feel: HISTORY MEETS HIGH DESIGN. This 1850s bluestone house along Victoria’s Great Ocean Road has been reimagined with a sleek steel extension and contemporary, minimalist interiors.

The highlight: You’ll find remarkable design touches in unexpected places, from rich blue mosaic tiles in the bathroom to a brilliant green ceiling and sliding walls that move via string pulls.

The room: Suite One takes up the entire ground floor of the original building and has a freestanding stone bathtub sitting in front of an open fireplace. drifthouse.com.au

HOUSE

MONA PAVIL ION S

TAS VILLA

HOWDEN

VILLA Howden | Rooms: 10 Rates: from A$302 per night twin share

DR IF T HOU S E

BRAE DESIGN Birregurra | Rooms: 6 Rates: from A$425 per night twin share The feel: RURAL GOURMET GETAWAY. Named as one of the World’s Best 50 Restaurants in 2017, this contemporary restaurant now offers six luxe suites in its tranquil slice of the Otway Ranges (just note that you’ll need to book a meal as well as a stay).

The highlight: The complimentary in-room breakfast of house-made organic wood-fired sourdough, pastries, preserves and seasonal produce harvested from the property.

The room: Each suite features underfloor heating, a temperature-controlled wine fridge and a skylight above the bed for stargazing. braerestaurant.com

SA ARKABA

The feel: FAUX FRENCH FEELS. Just outside of Hobart, on the edge of the picturesque Huon Valley, Villa Howden is a replica of a palatial French villa with exceptional attention to detail – right down to the authentic 18th century window shutters.

The highlight: Instead of a ‘do not disturb’ sign, each suite has a resident teddy bear that guests leave outside their room when they want privacy.

The room: The Water View Suite has its own private balcony overlooking the gardens and North West Bay. villahowden.com.au

HOMESTEAD MONA

PAVILIONS

COUNTRY Flinders Ranges | Rooms: 5 Rates: from A$930 per person per night twin share

DESIGN Hobart | Rooms: 8 Rates: from A$550 per night twin share

The feel: HIGH-END HOMESTEAD. A 19th century sheep-station-turned-wildlifeconservancy on 60,000 acres of remote South Australian bush.

The highlight: There’s no WiFi, telephones or TV, meaning you can shut out the modern world and embrace the historic charm.

The room: The Coachman’s Cottage is set in the corner of the garden, away from the main homestead, so provides a more private alternative. arkabaconservancy.com

The feel: LOFTY AND LIGHT. Bold, angular pavilions are decorated in the style of famous Australian artists.

The highlight: Guests receive exclusive Museum of Old and New Art tours on a Tuesdays, when the museum is closed to the public.

The room: The two-bedroom penthouse Roy, named after architect Sir Roy Grounds, spans three floors and features a built-in spa bath on the deck. mona.net.au/stay/mona-pavilions www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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BE DA R R A

NT BAMURRU

QLD PLAINS

NIGHTFALL

CAMP

CAMP Mary River | Rooms: 10 Rates: from A$620 per person per night twin share

CAMP Scenic Rim | Rooms: 3 Rates: from A$795 per night twin share (minimum two-night stay)

The feel: TOP END TIME OUT. Sitting on the edge of the Kakadu National Park, this pared-back bush camp is in the centre of one of the country’s most fascinating ecosystems.

The highlight: Be completely immersed in the bush with a night in The Hide, a screened viewing platform six metres above the ground that can be set up with comfy swags.

The room: The huge Kingfisher Suite can easily sleep a family of five with roll-out camp beds, a quirky corrugated iron bathroom and floor-to-ceiling views through mesh walls. bamurruplains.com

The feel: LESS IS MORE. Chic, spacious safari tents are hidden away in the ancient undergrowth of Lamington National Park.

The highlight: Seasonal organic meals with ingredients from the camp's garden are cooked over the fire or in the custom-built wood-fired oven and served under the stars.

The room: The tents were hand-built by the owners and feature a rotating internal fireplace, brushed-timber floors, freestanding bathtubs and organic bedding. nightfall.com.au

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BEDARRA RESORT Great Barrier Reef | Rooms: 10 Rates: from A$1,075 per night twin share The feel: BAREFOOT ISLAND BEAUTY. Once one of Queensland’s most over-thetop resorts, the new Bedarra relaunched in 2014 with half the villas and a focus on sustainability.

The highlight: This is low-key luxury at its best, so you’ll dine with other guests around a communal table and make good use of the legendary open bar.

The room: Perched high on granite boulders among a canopy of coconut palms, The Treehouse offers guests a split-level sun terrace and bird’s-eye ocean views. bedarra.com.au

WA EL QUESTRO HOMESTEAD COUNTRY East Kimberley | Rooms: 9 Rates: from A$1,969 per night twin share

E L Q U E S T R O HOM E S T E A D

The feel: WAY OUT WILDERNESS. The homestead is in the middle of almost one million acres of wilderness, dotted with dramatic red gorges, thermal springs and salt plains.

The highlight: The best way to get around a property this size is by helicopter, so hop aboard for private fishing excursions and waterfall swims.

The room: The Chamberlain Gorge Suite is dramatically cantilevered over the edge of the gorge and is ideal for honeymooners – its wide verandah features an al fresco bathtub for two. elquestro.com.au INJIDUP

SPA

R E T R E AT

RETREAT Margaret River | Rooms: 10 Rates: from A$650 per night twin share The feel: RECHARGE AND RENEW. This secluded spa retreat is surrounded by national parklands and all of the sleek, contemporary villas have jaw-dropping, 180-degree views out over the Indian Ocean.

The highlight: There’s no restaurant on-site, but you can have a gourmet chef-cooked meal from nearby Lamont’s winery delivered to your villa door.

The room: Couples will want to choose the one-bedroom Honeymoon Villa, which has a private plunge pool, eco-fire and freestanding stone bathtub. injidupsparetreat.net.au www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au B A M U R RU PL A IN S

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NEW ZEALAND + SOUTH PACIFIC HELENA

BAY

OTA H U N A

LODGE

LODGE Northland | Rooms: 5 Rates: from NZ$1,550 (about A$1,444) per night twin share

LODGE Christchurch | Rooms: 7 Rates: from NZ$1,300 (about A$1,215) per night twin share

The feel: OLIGARCH’S PRIVATE ESTATE. This $50 million waterfront property was originally going to be a holiday house for Russian billionaire Alexander Abramov, but instead it opened late last year as an ultra-luxe retreat with five staff members for every guest.

The highlight: It’s the only oceanfront property in Helena Bay, on the northeast coast of the North Island, with three kilometres of coastline and four private beaches.

The room: Kotare is one of the two 134-square metre Villa Suites, and has a log-burning fireplace and outdoor terrace just steps from the water’s edge. helenabay.com

The feel: DOWNTON ABBEY DREAMING. Originally built for politician Sir Heaton Rhodes and now a Relais & Châteaux property, this Victorian gem is an asymmetric jumble of 19th century gilded wallpaper, ornate wooden carvings, stained-glass windows and 15 woodburning fireplaces.

The highlight: The lodge’s 30 acres of landscaped botanical gardens were designed by the famed AE Lowe, who trained at Kew Gardens, and are full of lakes, woodlands, hedged pathways and immaculate lawns.

The room: The stately Rhodes Suite has a large inglenook fireplace and four rooms, including an octagonal room situated in a turret. otahuna.co.nz

THE

VAT U VA R A

B OATS H E D

H E L E N A B AY

LODGE Waiheke Island | Rooms: 7 Rates: from NZ$685 (about A$640) per night twin share

RESORT Fiji | Rooms: 3 Rates: from US$4,300 (about A$5,419) per night twin share

The feel: NAUTICAL SEASIDE HOLIDAY. The beach house dreams are made of with antique model yachts, beach bags and seashells accompanied by cream window shutters, white weatherboard exteriors and casual furnishings in shades of white and blue.

The highlight: The Boatshed Picnic Trucks let guests explore the Waiheke coastline, wineries and local galleries with a pre-packed gourmet picnic lunch.

The room: The aptly named Lighthouse suite spans three floors joined by narrow spiral staircases – climb to the day room at the top and fold back the glass doors to reveal expansive views of the bay. theboatshed.co.nz

The feel: UNSPOILED ISLAND PARADISE. This private all-inclusive island resort opened in 2015 and is owned by Oakley founder James Jannard, who designed everything to his own billionaire’s taste.

The highlight: The island remains fairly wild and the only way to get around is in a four-wheel drive along a series of steep, winding roads – brave guests can even drive themselves.

The room: Villa Delana was built for Jannard’s personal use and is the largest and most luxurious of the three with contemporary interiors beneath a traditional Fijian thatched roof as well as a hot tub, spa room with massage table and a plunge pool. vatuvara.com

ASIA THE

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LOMBOK

LODGE

RESORT Lombok, Indonesia | Rooms: 9 Rates: from A$526 per night twin share The feel: MINIMALISM IN THE TROPICS. Italian designer Vittorio Simoni’s low-rise, allwhite suites deliver a sense of understated luxe that’s as cool and refreshing as coconut milk.

The highlight: One-on-one yoga classes are held in an open-air pavilion by the ocean.

The room: The two Poolside Lodge Suites have ocean views and direct pool deck access, plus their own cosy outdoor terraces with an L-shaped sofa in signature white. thelomboklodge.com

A M A N -I-K H A S

AMAN-I-KHAS CAMP Ranthambore, India | Rooms: 10 Rates: from A$1,499 per night twin share The feel: CAMP FIT FOR A KING. A contemporary safari outpost inspired by the lavish Maharaja hunting parties of old, complete with a personal butler for each tent.

The highlight: The camp is perched on the edge of Ranthambore National Park, one of the best places to spot a Bengal tiger.

The room: Each contemporary, light-filled Mughal-style tent features soaring six-metre ceilings, freestanding baths and spacious rooms, separated by floor-to-ceiling creamcoloured curtains. aman.com/resorts/aman-i-khas

LUX* TEA HORSE ROAD LIJIANG HISTORIC Lijiang, China | Rooms: 10 Rates: from CNY545 (about A$102) per person per night twin share The feel: CHINESE CARAVANSERAI. A traditional Naxi-style courtyard home in the UNESCO town of Lijiang, a key stop along the 13th century Old Tea Horse Road trade route.

The highlight: Visit the oldest teahouse in Lijiang and meet Diana He, whose family has traded traditional pu’er tea for generations.

The room: The Deluxe Room overlooks the idyllic rooftops of the Old Town and features a dedicated relaxation area. luxresorts.com/en/hotel-lijiang/luxlijiang

SETOUCHI

AONAGI

DESIGN Matsuyama, Japan | Rooms: 7 Rates: from JPY32,500 (about A$369) per person per night twin share The feel: CONCEPTUAL COOL. A contemporary art museum transformed into a minimalist luxury hotel, designed by famed Japanese architect Tadao Ando.

The highlight: From the landscaped garden

by Yutaka Ono to the American post-war abstract paintings of Frank Stella, the stark hotel is embellished with an impressive collection of modern and contemporary art.

The room: The Aonagi Suite has an enormous eight-metre floor-to-ceiling window that overlooks the Seto Inland Sea. setouchi-aonagi.jp/en www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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A R T I S T R E S IDE N C E

PANACEA

R E T R E AT

RETREAT Koh Samui, Thailand | Rooms: 5 Rates: from US$953 (about A$1,198) per villa per night The feel: MOUNTAIN TOP MANSIONS. The colossal pavilions, designed by Hong Kong architect David Clarke, start at 1,300 square metres, and each has its own 20-metre infinity pool and dramatic rainforest and ocean views.

The highlight: Learn the traditional sport of muay Thai kickboxing with internationally recognised fighters and private lessons held in the villas’ boxing rings.

The room: It’s impossible to look past the 4,700-square metre Praana Residence with six ensuite bedrooms (each with an outdoor bath), a private cinema, nightclub, wine cellar, two infinity pools and 20 dedicated staff. panaceasamui.com

EUROPE

DEDON ISLAND RESORT RESORT Siargao, Philippines | Rooms: 9 Rates: from US$630 (about A$792) per person per night twin share The feel: HIGH DESIGN HIDEAWAY. The resort is the first from Bobby Dekeyser of German furniture company Dedon and serves as the brand’s ‘outdoor living lab’.

The highlight: Cloud 9, the Philippines’ most famous surf break, is close by. A perfect, yet powerful, right-hand barrel averaging around two metres, it’s one for experts only.

The room: The two-storey Deluxe Villas face the ocean and there’s a stylish hanging day bed on the large private terrace. dedonisland.com

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AVATO N & SPA

RESORT

RESORT Santorini, Greece | Rooms: 9 Rates: from €600 (about A$890) per night twin share in high season The feel: BOND VILLAIN’S SECRET LAIR. Think sleek, high-tech minimalism in neutral tones, all covered in classic Greek Islands white.

The highlight: The spa is cut directly into the rock, creating a tranquil grotto complete with twinkling lights on the ceiling.

The room: This is a resort for lovers so choose the Honeymoon Suite, complete with a private balcony hot tub perfect for sunsets over Santorini’s famed caldera. avatonresort.com

ARTIST

RESIDENCE

CITY London, England | Rooms: 10 Rates: from £255 (about A$423) per night twin share The feel: BOHEMIAN LONDON LOFT. Mismatched vintage furniture, exposed brick walls and quirky works by urban artists abound in this eclectic design hotel set in a building originally designed by London's legendary master builder Thomas Cubitt.

The highlight: Head downstairs for a drink in the Clarendon, a hidden cocktail bar in the old cellar, or a game of ping pong in the games room.

The room: The first-floor Grand Suite is a shabby-chic masterpiece with a four-poster bed, freestanding cast-iron bath and bespoke furniture in vibrant bottle green. artistresidencelondon.co.uk

AVATON R E S OR T & SPA

PALAZZO

M A RG H E R I TA

HISTORIC Bernalda, Italy | Rooms: 9 Rates: from €700 (about A$1,040) for a twonight stay The feel: MAFIOSO BOLTHOLE. The Godfather director Francis Ford Coppola transformed this 19th century palazzo into an Oscar-worthy hotel, resplendent with handpainted frescos and surrounded by an expansive estate with gardens and a swimming pool.

The highlight: Film buffs can watch old Italian films hand-selected by Coppola himself in the hotel’s salon.

The room: The Sofia, named after Coppola’s daughter who helped design the suite, has French doors leading from the bathroom and bedroom to a private terrace overlooking the garden and fountain. thefamilycoppolahideaways.com/en

LA

GRANJA

VILLA Ibiza, Spain | Rooms: 9 Rates: from €350 (about A$520) per night The feel: COMMUNAL FARMHOUSE CHIC. Set on 25 acres of organic farmland, this centuries-old stone farmhouse still retains its original scarred surfaces, beamed wooden ceilings and hammered-iron fixtures.

The highlight: The property hosts ‘Farm Rituals’ where local creatives share their expertise in sustainable living, farming or art, and healers lead meditation sessions, sound baths and other healing sessions.

The room: The minimalist rooms contain modest furniture made of burnt wood, brushed and oiled ash, stone and slate, covered in natural fabrics. lagranjaibiza.com

S A N TA

CLARA

1728

CITY Lisbon, Portugal | Rooms: 6 Rates: from €600 (about A$892) for a twonight stay The feel: SOPHISTICATED SIMPLICITY. An 18th century home in Lisbon’s old quarter has been thoughtfully redeveloped into a stunning yet serene hotel, where modern design touches refresh the original features.

The highlight: It operates more like a private home than a hotel and staff will go out of their way to meet the demands of each guest, meaning nothing is too much trouble.

The room: The 70-square metre Suite Santa Clara overlooks both the river and the gardens, and has a separate sitting room that can double as a bedroom for children. santaclara1728.com www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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E S TA NC I A A R R OYO V E R DE

SOUTH AMERICA KICHIC

E S TA N C I A A R R OYO V E R D E

FA Z E N D A S A O F R A N C I S C O

RETREAT Mancora, Peru | Rooms: 9 Rates: from US$280 (about A$352) per night twin share

LODGE Río Negro, Argentina | Rooms: 7 Rates: from US$690 (about A$870) per person per night

RESORT | Bahia, Brazil | Rooms: 10 Rates: from BRL2,240 (about A$904) per night twin share (minimum two-night stay)

The feel: SOUL SURFER CHIC. A laidback retreat with a gorgeous outdoor yoga studio, local healers and organic vegetarian menu, set just outside Peru’s favourite beach town.

The highlight: A private cinema for two can be set up on the beach with sun loungers, cushions and a huge projector screen.

The room: Close the door to the world in Suite Chic, with its huge garden, oceanfront deck and private access to the beach. kichic.com

The feel: PATAGONIAN FISHING FANTASY. Hidden within the Nahuel Huapi National Park, this rustic ranch overlooks the Traful River and the Andes.

The highlight: This family-run property is famous for its fly-fishing retreats, with the Traful offering anglers landlocked salmon, and brown and rainbow trout.

The room: For seclusion choose The Cabin, a one-bedroom retreat perched on a rocky outcrop around two kilometres from the main house. estanciaarroyoverde.com.ar

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The feel: OFF THE GRID BEACH SHACK. It’s a return to simple pleasures in these beach chic bungalows, with fresh seafood delivered daily by local fisherman and rare birds and vegetation right on your doorstep.

The highlight: The resort is fronted by 15 kilometres of deserted, white sand beach and temperatures are warm all year round.

The room: The open-plan bathroom in the Super Deluxe Bungalow has a sunken shower cut into the floor and a wall of floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto coconut trees. corumbau.com.br

AJA

MALIBU

RETREAT California, USA | Rooms: 7 Rates: from US$15,000 (about A$18,858) per person for a seven-day program

TU TK A B AY L ODG E

NORTH AMERICA

The feel: MIND, BODY, SPIRIT. Rustic rooms, a toxin-free environment and seven chakra-themed medicinal gardens form the core of this wellness retreat high in the Malibu mountains.

The highlight: The signature weeklong program created by owner and self-described ‘modern mystic’ Inannya Magick incorporates a biodynamic plant-based menu, vitamin injections and treatments in the crystal-infused spa.

The room: In Dreamweaver South, a fresh tray of salt with a crystal is left under the bed during each guest’s stay – an ancient technique believed to remove negative energies. ajamalibu.com HOTEL

TUTKA

BAY

LODGE

LODGE | Alaska, USA | Rooms: 6 Rates: from US$4,875 (about A$6,128) per person for a three-night stay The feel: ULTIMATE ALASKAN ADVENTURE. A series of wooden walkways connect traditional cabins perched on the edge of an 11-kilometre fjord, backed by old growth Sitka spruce forest.

The highlight: The lodge is owned by Kirsten Dixon, arguably Alaska’s best known chef and cookbook author, so expect world-class culinary vision. Cooking classes are even are held aboard a repurposed WWII-era crabbing boat.

The room: The cosy and traditional Eagle’s Nest Cabin sits on a knoll with panoramic ocean and mountain views. withinthewild.com/lodges/tutka-bay

NIMMO BAY WILDERNESS

RESORT

LODGE British Columbia, Canada | Rooms: 9 Rates: from C$1,895 (about A$1,895) per person per night The feel: INTO THE WILD. Set in the middle of the Great Bear Rainforest, grizzlies, black bears and whales will be your neighbours with daily trips to view them on foot or from the water.

The highlight: The lodge is accessible only by helicopter, floatplane or boat, so expect absolute privacy and no pesky day-trippers.

The room: In a four-room Streamside Cabin, guests can fall asleep to the sound of a nearby cascading waterfall. nimmobay.com

COVELL

CITY Los Angeles, USA | Rooms: 5 Rates: from US$295 (about A$371) per night twin share The feel: RETRO BACHELOR PAD. Each of the five suites represents a chapter in the life of imaginary bon vivant writer George Covell, following him from Oklahoma to New York to Paris.

The highlight: The hotel sits above Bar Covell, one of the swankiest small bars in LA with a menu of 150 wines by the glass.

The room: Chapter 4 is inspired by George’s ‘travels’ in India and Morocco, with oniondomed accents, splashes of emerald green and a sun-drenched breakfast room. hotelcovell.com www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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CENTRAL AMERICA + CARIBBEAN CASA

K I M B E R LY

HISTORIC Puerto Vallarta, Mexico | Rooms: 9 Rates: from US$290 (about A$365) per night twin share The feel: HACIENDA HOLLYWOOD GLAMOUR. This majestic home in the coastal town of Puerto Vallarta was gifted by Richard Burton to love interest Elizabeth Taylor while he was filming The Night of the Iguana in 1964.

The highlight: All nine individually styled suites are named after Taylor’s films and some span entire floors.

The room: Elizabeth Taylor’s namesake suite was her former bedroom. It’s accessible via a private elevator and features an original pink marble heart-shaped tub that Taylor had commissioned. casakimberly.com

C A S A K IM BE R L EY

EL ALMA SOUL R E T R E AT

THE PENINSULA HOUSE

PASEO

RETREAT Peninsula Papagayo, Costa Rica | Rooms: 3 Rates: from US$650 (about A$817) per night twin share in high season

COUNTRY Samana, Dominican Republic | Rooms: 6 Rates: from US$550 (about A$691) per night twin share

CITY Havana, Cuba | Rooms: 8 Rates: from US$399 (about A$502) per night twin share

The feel: GLAMOROUS SHARE-HOUSE LIVING. The three bedrooms share a common living area, kitchen and pool, but there are still plenty of secluded spots to escape.

The highlight: If yoga and meditation aren’t your thing, specialised tango dancing retreats encourage guests to get in touch with their body through movement.

The room: The master Mandala Suite is the size of an apartment and has uninterrupted jungle and ocean views from a large private terrace. elalma.com

The feel: G&TS AT SUNSET. This plantation-style mansion sits on a sloping green hillside dotted with coconut palms, overlooking the ocean and a deserted Caribbean coastline.

The highlight: The swimming pool is like a sunken water tank, and the well-stocked pool house on the edge is overflowing with fluffy white towels and chilled white wine.

The room: Each Junior Suite features high ceilings, antique furnishings, mahogany soaking tubs and private terraces accessed through French doors. thepeninsulahouse.com

The feel: HEMINGWAY HIGH LIFE. Rumoured to have been lost in a gruelling poker game, this restored manor house occupies a spot on the most famous street in Havana.

The highlight: Lobby restaurant Eclectico has quickly become known as one of the best restaurants in Cuba, serving Cuban-Italian fare created from local ingredients.

The room: The light-filled Tropical Garden Suite offers a mix of the old and new, with contemporary furnishings, traditional tiled floors and splashes of green. paseo206.com

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AFRICA + INDIAN OCEAN D E L A I R E G R A F F E STAT E COUNTRY Stellenbosch, South Africa | Rooms: 10 Rates: from ZAR18,570 (about A$1,766) per night twin share The feel: LORD OF THE MANOR. Ten freestanding lodges are set around the property with uninterrupted views of the rolling hills and vineyards of the Stellenbosch Valley.

The highlight: Guests have exclusive access to owner Laurence Graff’s renowned private art collection, including works like Vladimir Tretchikoff’s iconic Chinese Girl.

The room: The 130-square metre Owner’s Lodge has two bedrooms, a fireplace and a huge open-plan living space that opens onto a full-size infinity pool. delaire.co.za ENCHANTED RESORT E L A L M A S OU L R E T R E AT

ISLAND

RESORT Round Island, Seychelles | Rooms: 10 Rates: from €950 (about A$1,416) per night twin share The feel: IDYLLIC ISLAND ESCAPE. In a nation of gorgeous islands, Enchanted Island is a tiny dot of perfection surrounded by turquoise water, white sand and a consistent temperature of 27-30°C. The highlight: The island is in the middle of the Sainte Anne Marine National Park, which contains one of the largest beds of seagrass in the area, making it a popular spot for feeding green and hawksbill turtles.

The room: The 240-square metre Enchanted Signature Villa has its own infinity pool and direct access to a white sand beach. jaresortshotels.com See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au E N C H A N T E D I SL A N D R E S OR T

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DESTINATION 042 SRI LANKA 047 LADAKH 054 PUGLIA 060 ARMENIA 066 HELSINKI

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D E S T I N AT I O N LT EXCLUSIVES | SRI LANKA

SET YOUR SIGHTS ON SRI LANKA WITH THE LAUNCH OF THE FIRST DIRECT FLIGHTS FROM M E L B O U R N E TO C O LO M B O T H I S O CTO B E R , G E T T I N G TO S R I L A N K A HAS NEVER BEEN EASIER. GRACE SMITH ROUNDS UP THE BEST L U X U R Y A C C O M M O D AT I O N D E A L S F O R W H E N Y O U A R R I V E .

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S A M A N V I L L A S I N F I N I T Y PO OL

EXCLUSIVE EXTRAS AT SAMAN VILLAS LT EXCLUSIVE AT U R U W E L L A ,

B E N TOTA

Hugging the island's southwest coastline close to the resort town of Bentota, this 27-suite resort is skirted by near-deserted beaches and lush marshlands. The Deluxe Suites offer guests a private garden, plunge pool and sunbeds for lounging; Sahana Spa is perfect for healing Ayurvedic treatments; and the restaurant serves up traditional Sri Lankan cuisine.

For those who want to explore, the team at Saman Villas offer a variety of day tours and activities through the surrounding fishing village of Aturuwella and the UNESCO-listed heritage town of Galle.

Special: Book three nights on the Flexible rate with breakfast and receive complimentary extras exclusive to Luxury Travel readers.

Inclusions: Airport transfers, welcome sparkling wine and fruits, 15-minute foot massage on arrival, 60-minute spa treatment per adult guest, chef’s special Sri Lankan sweet box, village cycle tour. *Regular rates start from US$255 (about A$318) per night. To redeem this exclusive package, email resv@samanvilla.com and mention this deal.

Valid until 30th November 2017. samanvilla.com www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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STAY THREE NIGHTS, PAY FOR TWO AT Constructed around a 150-year old historic chieftain’s mansion, this CAPE WELIGAMA LT EXCLUSIVE

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boutique hotel is surrounded by tropical forest, an expansive lake and lush green rice paddies. The majority of the 20 villas have their own private deck and plunge pool as well as rainfall showers, floor-to-celling windows, and a separate dining and living area. The hotel offers a number of hosted cultural excursions and activities including jungle kayaking, horse rides, on-site archery and a tour of the property’s organic gardens followed by a cooking class.

Special: Save 45 per cent and receive exclusive extras when using the special discount code LTMUGAES. Inclusions: US$60 food and beverage credit (for bookings with a minimum three-night stay), 10-minute shoulder massage at the Uga Spa, late checkout (subject to availability), free WiFi. *Regular rates start from US$273 (about A$341) per night. Offer valid for stays until 31 March 2018. Bookings must be made by 30 September 2017.

Blackout dates apply from 20 December 2017 until 10 January 2018. ugaescapes.com

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Set on a headland overlooking the Indian Ocean, this intimate resort is laid out like a traditional Sri Lankan village. The property contains eight gardens, each comprising two or three villas and its own 15-metre infinity pool in addition to the main 60-metre, adults-only pool curving around the cape. Guests can spend the day whale watching on the resort’s luxury catamaran or exploring submerged shipwrecks before returning to their spacious suite (the smallest are 130 square metres), complete with a furnished outdoor verandah for relaxing or dining.

Special: Stay three nights in an Ocean Villa and only pay for two.

Inclusions: Accommodation and daily breakfast. *Regular rates start from US$456 (about A$570) per night.

Offer valid for stays from 1 September until 31 October 2017. See website for full details. resplendentceylon.com

SRI LANKA SPECIALIST W E S P E A K TO N I K K I D I A M O N D , A T R AV E L A DV I S O R AT F B I T R AV E L , FO R INSIDER TIPS ON VISITING SRI LANKA. Luxury Travel: What advantages will Luxury Travel readers enjoy when booking their Sri Lanka holiday with you?

Nikki Diamond: We have extremely strong partnerships with the best in the business, so can offer clients diverse and creative itineraries and can often provide benefits such as room upgrades, complimentary breakfasts and more. We ensure that your itinerary includes tours that have in-depth knowledge of Sri Lanka. We don’t just book your travel arrangements – we create your itinerary in a way that is right for you, that offers you flexibility and that will ensure you have a special and memorable experience.

COMPLIMENTARY PLANTATION TOUR AT ANANTARA PEACE HAVEN, TANGALLE RESORT LT EXCLUSIVE GOYAMBOKKA

E STAT E ,

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This resort occupies a secluded corner of the south Sri Lankan coastline, surrounded by swaying coconut trees and backing onto a deserted white sand beach. Wellness is a focus, with beach yoga, tai chi and meditation classes, and specialist Ayurvedic and reflexology treatments available at the signature Anantara Spa. Menus at the resort’s six dining venues feature wellness cuisine options, and raw fruit and vegetable smoothies are readily available.

Special: Book a Wellbeing Retreat for a minimum of two nights and receive a complimentary Handunugoda Low Country Tea Plantation tour, exclusively available to Luxury Travel readers.

Inclusions: The Wellbeing Retreat package includes accommodation, daily buffet breakfast, two holistic activities, two Ayurvedic therapies, two healthy juices and two healthy lunches per person, based on twin share, as well as 15 per cent off spa treatments.

In addition, Luxury Travel readers will receive a complimentary Handunugoda Low Country Tea Plantation tour. *Regular rates for the Wellbeing Retreat start from US$358 (about A$450) per night for Premier Beach Access Rooms (minimum two night stay). To redeem this exclusive package, just mention Luxury Travel when booking directly with the hotel by phone or email. Offer valid until 24 August 2018. tangalle.anantara.com

LT: Is Sri Lanka a good family destination?

ND: It’s a great destination for families. It has amazing wildlife, and breathtaking mountains and landscapes to explore. For those families looking to completely unwind, Sri Lanka has a stunning coastline with family-focused hotels offering excellent facilities to keep the kids entertained. At Udawalawe National Park, you can watch elephants in their natural habitat and even get to feed the baby elephants. You can learn the traditional Kandyan dance or head to the beaches to swim with turtles.

LT: What does Sri Lanka offer luxury travellers?

ND: One of the best things about Sri Lanka is that, due to its small size, you are never far from anything. You can spend the morning in the hills, the afternoon at an ancient Buddhist temple, and by the time the evening rolls around you can be eating seafood on the beach.

LT: Do you have any favourite Sri Lankan hotels?

ND: Ceylon Tea Trails: They have a collection of luxuriously restored colonial guesthouses with period furnishings and butler service. Rooms have views of the mountains and tea fields, there’s gourmet cuisine and a range of activities.

Chena Huts: Located in Yala National Park, they combine luxury accommodation with unspoilt nature – with rooms overlooking the beach you may even get to watch sea turtles emerge from the ocean as they make their way up the beach to lay their eggs. Or, you might get to spot elephants wandering down onto the beach from the jungle to play in the surf. And if you’re extremely lucky you may even glimpse a leopard.

The Kandy House: Built in 1804, this is a boutique hotel with colonial architecture and lots of character – it used to be the home of a governor.

Uniquely designed rooms overlook the pool with views of the rice fields.

LT: Can you give us an insider tip on travelling in Sri Lanka?

ND: Pace yourself. It is not necessary to do everything in one trip; instead, do a few things well. You can always come back and do something completely different from your first trip. fbitravel.com.au www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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ON A LUXURY JOURNEY THROUGH LADAKH, IN T H E S H A D O W O F T H E H I M A L AYA S , L U CY J O N E S D I S C O V E R S O N E O F T R AV E L’ S L A S T F R O N T I E R S , A W I L D LY B E A U T I F U L L A N D S C A P E O F S O A R I N G M O U N TA I N P A S S E S , C R U M B L I N G M O N A S T E R I E S A N D C O LO U R F U L P R AY E R F L A G S .

THE

ROOF OF THE WORLD

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T HI K S EY MON A S T E RY

INDIA | LADAKH

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t’s the air that you notice first. Thin and sharp and brittle as glass. Cold, too, despite the fact that we are well into summer. It soon becomes apparent that the rules of weather are a little different up here. At 3,500 metres above sea level, Leh, the capital of the Ladakh region in northern India, is one of the highest cities in the world. You’ll feel it the second you step off the plane. You’ll feel it even more if you try to jog up a set of stairs. All visitors are advised to rest for 24 hours upon arrival in Ladakh – the altitude sickness can be brutal.

We arrive early in the morning on a flight from Delhi. Leh airport requires one of those late approach spirals that dip sharply into the dusty slopes of the Himalayas, making for a picturesque yet abrupt landing. It’s officially a military base, so security is tight.

Because of Ladakh’s strategic position, sharing borders with China and Pakistan, there are some 300,000 soldiers based here. That’s in relation to a Ladakhi population of just 250,000. The drive from the airport passes through a huge army base, proudly displaying the insignia of the Fire & Fury Corps, and military trucks are a common sight on the roads through the region.

As we drive, it’s soon clear that Ladakh is something special. It is wildly, madly beautiful in a way that takes your breath away.

The landscape looks like Tibet or Nepal; the people too, with their almond eyes, wide cheekbones, bronzed skin and ruddy cheeks.

Dramatic mountains rise up on either side of the green valley, their snowy peaks reaching far into the clouds, and monasteries seem to tumble down their sides like blocks from a toy box. Tall poplars (one of the only trees you’ll see) stand to attention and colourful prayer flags flutter in the breeze. I am stunned into silence.

Just outside Leh is Saboo Resorts, a collection of freestanding whitewashed cottages overlooking terraced fields and the peaks of the Zanskar Range. Our host George is there to meet us. He is Abercrombie & Kent’s man on the ground in Ladakh – if he can’t make it happen, it’s probably not worth doing. We also meet our guide, Rinchen, a softly spoken, www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au B UDDH I S T NOV IC E S

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yet eminently knowledgeable, man who will be with us for the rest of the tour. He proves entirely unflappable, even in the face of blaring truck horns, road closures and unseasonable snow.

As instructed, we rest. The cottages are snug and homey with a traditional, low-slung padded bench in the front room and a bathroom with water so cold it’s hard to believe it’s still a liquid (though it quickly warms up).

There’s even cable television and some very intermittent WiFi, a rarity in these parts.

That evening, Lama Paldan, a high-ranking

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monk from the nearby Spituk Monastery, comes to speak to us. Though India is officially a secular democracy, Buddhism here is a way of life (much as Hinduism or Sikhism is in other parts of the country). Many children spend time in a monastery and Rinchen tells us that he would like his next child to follow the tradition. The Dalai Lama makes frequent visits to Ladakh and will actually be arriving shortly after we leave, meaning many of the monasteries we visit are undergoing some last minute touch-ups.

We spend our days happily walking through

the surrounding fields, greeted everywhere with a friendly "jullay!", a sort of all-purpose word that means hello, goodbye, ok and thank you. At Hemis Monastery, the largest and wealthiest of its kind in Ladakh, preparations are underway for the annual Hemis Festival and young monks are practicing a traditional dance in the courtyard. We climb the steps to Leh Palace, a nine-storey stone edifice that looks over the town. It was built in the 17th century but abandoned 200 years later and now stands largely ruined, though no less imposing. www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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Leh has the feel of a rugged frontier town, the streets lined with shops selling mountaineering gear for the regular stream of trekkers on their way through to loftier peaks. Stray dogs nap in the sun, their thick winter coats beginning to shed at the start of summer. They are surprisingly well fed but most are disappointingly timid, rejecting my eager advances to pat them. Redrobed monks shuffle along the dusty streets and market stalls overflow with nuts and dried apricots, a specialty of the region. The apricots are rock hard and I nearly lose a

tooth – local custom involves soaking them in water first.

The town has undergone a rapid change in the last half century, as indeed has all of Ladakh. When the first airplane landed here in 1948, local women brought it baskets of grass – they thought this strange flying animal would be hungry. In the 1970s, it became part of the Himalayan hippie trail and a handful of guesthouses and homestays sprung up. Now, there are around 12,000 beds in the region, with more on the way. Leh is a cacophony of construction, and there are Z OLTA N S ZA B O PHO TO G R A PH Y / S H U T T E R S TO CK . COM M A K IN G M U S IC AT T H IK S EY MON A S T E RY

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plans to introduce more flights from within India and possibly international destinations.

While people are excited about the potential boost to their economy, there are concerns over the proper management of tourism.

It’s an issue that troubles the King of Ladakh, too. We discuss it over lunch at Stok Palace where he lives with his family (because having lunch with royalty is just the kind of thing you do on an Abercrombie & Kent tour). Ladakh has been at the crossroads of the world for centuries, connecting India and Asia through the Silk Road. It has managed to maintain its unique national identity in the face of both merchants and marauders, but this sudden boom in travellers is unprecedented. The King worries, too, about the effects of climate change on his little pocket of paradise, as glaciers recede and snow falls later and later each season.

It seems snowy enough when we attempt Khardung La, one of the highest driveable roads in the world with a pass of more than 5,600 metres (higher than Everest Base Camp). It travels from Leh over the Karakoram Mountains and into the Nubra Valley. The journey is just over 100 kilometres, yet will take at least five hours – and it’s soon clear why. The road is a muddy, slushy track barely wider than one lane, with an icy mountain face to one side and a lurching drop off to the other. But even that doesn’t guarantee that you won’t come nose-to-nose with an overloaded minibus or huge army truck determined to assert right of way. It’s a bone rattling, heart-in-your-mouth drive.

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At one point I look out of the window and we are so close to the edge there is no road beside me, just the yawning depths of the valley below.

That’s all forgotten once we (finally) make our way down out of the mountains and into the Nubra Valley. It’s exquisite. The winding road hugs the side of the mountain and it’s like driving along the edge of the Grand Canyon with soaring snow-capped peaks in the background. If this was anywhere else there would be thousands of visitors every day. But here, in one of the most remote and inaccessible parts of the planet, it’s just us.

The tiny town of Diskit is the capital of the valley, a collection of low buildings and dusty streets. The Diskit Monastery, the oldest in the valley, clings to the hillside above.

We climb its staggered staircases to a temple where a fierce statue of a guardian deity

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clutches a skull and mummified forearm, supposedly belonging to a Mongol raider who tried to storm the gates in the 15th century. Opposite the monastery, a striking modern statue of Buddha, 32 metres tall and brightly coloured, coolly surveys the valley.

Our home here is Chamba Camp Diskit, a set of safari-style tents clustered together at the bottom of the valley. The camp is only open from May through September each year, after which it is packed up and moved to the even more remote region of Nagaland, in the far east of India on the border with Myanmar.

On the way back, unwilling to face the thrills of Khardung La a second time, we take the Wari La Pass. It’s as if we’ve stumbled into the Garden of Eden. Rolling green fields, gentle streams and colourful wildflowers line the road. Fat-bottomed Himalayan marmots (a native animal that resembles a cartoonish

cross between a corgi and a beaver) scamper among the rocks. The road soon begins to wind up above the snow line, but we see almost no other vehicles on the way and it’s a pleasantly uneventful drive. Its summit is just over 5,300 metres, though that seems barely a blip now that we are high-altitude experts.

Our final days are spent ensconced in luxury just east of Leh at Chamba Camp Thiksey, a collection of grand canvas tents with wooden floorboards and four-poster beds. The food is exceptional (as are the cocktails) and my butler thoughtfully puts a hot-water bottle in my bed one night when temperatures are particularly low. An archery board is set up at the back of the camp, a nod to Ladakh’s traditional sport, though I only get a couple of arrows to stick.

George organises a private polo match, played by wiry Ladakhi men on their small

MON K S AT H E MI S MON A S T E RY

B U DDH A , DI S K I T MONA S T E RY

Z M _ PHO TO / S H U T T E R S TO C K .COM

LADAKH: NATURE AND FESTIVALS – AN A&K HOSTED JOURNEY Luxury travel company Abercrombie & Kent specialises in private and small group journeys to India. The 12-day Ladakh: Nature and Festivals tour runs from 20 June to 1 July, 2018. It includes two days at the Hemis Festival; accommodation at Saboo Resorts, Chamba Camp Diskit and Apricot Tree Hotel; an exclusive polo match; multiple monastery visits; and specialist lectures. Rates start from A$9,195 per person twin share. abercrombiekent.com.au

WHEN TO GO The season for travelling to Ladakh is from May to September when most of the main roads are open and many of the monastic festivals occur.

Daytime temperatures are pleasant and can reach maximums in the low 20s. Nights will still be chilly with temperatures dropping as low as 5°C. The sunlight at high altitudes is intense so it’s important to pack a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen.

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stocky ponies. It’s fast and rough, played on an open dirt field that seems to render the ball all but invisible. Musicians, set up along the sidelines, score each of the points with a dramatic burst of drums and flute. I’m shocked when the players dismount and discover that many of them are well into their sixties, though they look as fit as men half their age.

One morning, we rise at dawn to see the first prayers at Thiksey Monastery. We wait on the roof for two young monks who will come to blow conch shells, signalling the start of the day. Today, one is late and he makes a rather sheepish scramble into his spot well after the appointed time. But it doesn’t seem to matter. The sun still rises and the monks clamber down the stairs with smiles on their faces. It’s hard not to be happy when you live in the most beautiful place on Earth.

high-altitude travel The elevation of Leh and much of Ladakh is well over 3,000 metres and one of the mountain passes you will drive through is at 5,600 metres. Travellers may experience symptoms of altitude sickness such as headaches, fatigue, nausea and vomiting, caused by the lack of oxygen at high elevations, and may be short of breath during walks. Gradual acclimatisation is important and medication recommended.

RECOMMENDED READING THE ROAD BACK

BY LIZ HARRIS

When Patricia accompanies her father, Major George Carstairs, on a trip to Ladakh in the early 1960s, she sees it as a chance to finally win his love. What she could never have foreseen is meeting Kalden, a local man destined by circumstances beyond his control to be a monk, but fated to be the love of her life. Despite her father’s fury, the lovers are determined to be together, but can their forbidden love survive? tripfiction.com/books/the-road-back

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DESTINATION ITALY | PUGLIA

IM AG E S T HI S S PR E A D: BE L INDA LUK S IC

IT’S ALL ABOUT L A D O L C E V I TA I N I TA LY ’ S D E E P SOUTH. BELINDA L U K S I C U N R AV E L S THE REGION’S H I S T O R Y, C U LT U R E AND FOOD ON A H E A RT- STO P P I N G TO U R A R O U N D PUGLIA.

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he bells of Lecce Cathedral are ringing; a jubilant clanging that resounds throughout the historic UNESCO town that the cathedral takes its name from.

It’s 1pm and in Italy’s southern region of Puglia, where siesta is a deeply held tradition, the streets are soon empty and the shops shut for the long afternoon riposo (rest).

We’ve spent the better part of the morning kneading focaccia dough and twirling pasta into orecchiette cups (“better to hold the sauce”), peeling fat fava beans and artichokes for zuppa (soup), and rolling thin blankets of pork around prosciutto and local cheese.

It’s the humble makings of a traditional Salento lunch – the local cucina povera (peasant fare) found in various forms around Italy, and taught in a 17th century former monastery in town by Gianna Greco. A chef, sommelier and olive oil taster, Greco is also the owner of the wonderful Cooking Experience Lecce.

Afterwards, our stomachs full, it’s a quick walk with our guide down Lecce’s main street, at night the place of la grande passeggiata, the evening promenade that is one of Italy’s more

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enduring traditions. Around the corner we discover the dazzling Baroque architecture of Piazza del Duomo.

Hewn from the stone of Lecce, a soft and workable limestone that glows honey over time, the florid artistry of the cathedral, bishop’s seminary and five-storey campanile that bound the vast piazza is striking. Cherubs dance above mounds of fruit, blossoms and shells. Grotesque gargoyles leer from ledges, and serpentine ropes bedeck the saint-filled façade. There are curlicue flourishes, pyramids and decorative pediments.

This Barocco Leccese we see everywhere in Lecce – from the sinuous concertina frill of an upstairs balcony to the elegant moulding above a door and ornate exterior of a grand palazzo.

First settled by the Greeks and conquered by the Romans before falling to the Normans, Lecce has a rich heritage. But it was the Spanish, and the sculptors of the 16th and 17th centuries, notably Giuseppe Zimbalo, who restored the cathedral and bell tower, helping the city earn its nickname as the ‘Florence of the South’.

It’s just one stop on a luxury five-day tour

of Puglia and Basilicata (the stiletto and arch of Italy’s boot) curated by Southern Visions, a bespoke experiential travel company based in southern Italy with a fleet of sleek BMWs to transport guests between destinations.

Otranto, Italy’s easternmost town, is our first stop. On the Adriatic Coast in Puglia, the historic port has a violent past – a brutal invasion by the Turks in 1480 left its 813 inhabitants martyred. It’s a history that’s difficult to reconcile as we wander the ancient walled city, quiet and uncrowded, in May. We pass small designer shops, restaurants and bars, and catch glimpses of the brilliant blue sea.

Lunch is at eminently likeable L’altro Baffo – a seafood tasting plate served raw (standard in Puglia) and handmade pasta plump with fish.

And the martyrs? Their skulls and bones can be found in the Norman cathedral within the walled city, along with an incredible mosaic of the Tree of Life on the floor.

En route to the white city of Ostuni, sprawled on a hillside like a wedding cake topped with a Gothic cathedral, we pass rugged and windswept landscapes dominated by gnarled olive trees that are thousands of years old. It’s

“

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In Sasso Barisano, the section of Matera that has been restored, the caves are filled with hotels, restaurants, cafes and bars.

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the 1950s and the entire population of around 15,000 cave dwellers were relocated to a new government housing project. But the ancient city has undergone a renaissance.

In Sasso Barisano, the section of the city that has been restored, the caves are filled with hotels, restaurants, cafes and bars. Its resemblance to biblical Jerusalem has made it popular with Hollywood. Mel Gibson’s The Passion of Christ was filmed here, as well as scenes from the latest instalment of Wonder Woman. More than 2,000 people have returned, renting caves from the government.

Our room in the prehistoric Sextantio le Grotte della Civita is a looking glass into a world that once was. It’s simply furnished and lit by candles, and we spot grooves beside our bed, where the donkeys were kept. The drawers of the dark wood bureau were once used as a bed for babies and small children. There is luxury and romance, too. Deep in the dimly lit recesses of our cave, a sunken bathroom with a freestanding elliptical tub beckons the weary traveller.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

STAY Masseria Trapanà Double rooms are priced from €500 (about A$750) for the minimum two-night stay including breakfast. trapana.com Sextantio le Grotte Della Civita Double rooms are priced from €252 (about A$380) per night including breakfast. legrottedellacivita.sextantio.it

EXPERIENCE Southern Visions offers tailor-made trips around southern Italy and beyond, including culinary and active experiences. southernvisionstravel.com

RECOMMENDED READING CASA ROSSA

BY FRANCESCA MARCIANO

Casa Rossa, the home of the Strada family, is a magnificent farmhouse standing amid the olive groves of Puglia.

A haunting story of what happens when family secrets collide with history, Casa Rossa moves from the duplicity of Italy’s role in the 1930s to the dark years of Red Brigade’s terrorism in the ’70s. tripfiction.com/books/casa-rossa

BE L INDA LUK SIC

these very trees, UNESCO protected and numbering in the millions, that account for almost half of Italy’s fine olive oil output.

We sample this liquid gold at Masseria Brancati. The small olive farm and hotel near Ostuni has been in the same family for 200 years, with its silvery olive grove dating back more than 3,000 years to the Romans. Afterwards, we descend a set of steep stone steps worn smooth by time to a subterranean cave where an old olive oil press and extraction mill is carved into the rock.

It’s in these charming masserie that we see Puglia’s deep roots to the past.

These medieval fortified farmhouses were self-sustaining and a defence against invasion from the marauding armies that ranged the countryside.

Today, many have been transformed into luxe stays.

Masseria Trapanà on the outskirts of Lecce is one of the newest. The spartan 16th century former olive mill elegantly restored by Australian Rob PotterSanders is divine. Within its six gardens are citrus trees dripping with fruit, ripe mulberries we pluck and eat, cacti and sweet-smelling jasmine. We lounge by the pool, eat meals alfresco beneath orange trees, read books in various hammocks strung about the place and take long, luxurious baths in our outdoor tub for two.

We end our adventures in Matera, the ancient UNESCO town in Basilicata and the designated European Capital of Culture in 2019. Claimed as the thirdoldest continually inhabited settlement in the world (after Aleppo and Jericho), its ancient civilisation dates back more than 9,000 years. It’s a place that feels lost in time.

Stone houses and caves piled higgledy-piggledy on top of one another perforate the cliffs and deep ravine that runs through the city. The land beyond is scrubby and desolate, and zigzagged with trails that lead to hidden chapels and more remote caves.

It’s Matera’s story of rebirth that is most remarkable. The impoverished city was declared Italy’s great shame in

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DESTINATION ARMENIA | YEREVAN

FROM THE TIME OF THE PERSIAN E M P I R E TO T H E S OV I E T E R A , A R M E N I A’ S H I S T O R Y H A S B E E N O N E O F CO N Q U E ST A N D R E N E WA L .

T O D A Y T H I S FA S C I N AT I N G TRADITION COMBINED WITH AN I N F LUX O F N E W D E V E LO P M E N T I S L U R I N G T R AV E L L E R S TO T H E C O U N T R Y ’ S C A P I TA L , A S BEENA NADEEM DISCOVERS.

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rought iron verandahs curl like tendrils. Café tables spill onto wide boulevards.

Come dusk, illuminated fountains tango to the night call of music inside a square hugged by pink-hued buildings carved from volcanic rock.

Walk a few minutes in any direction and you’ll find Soviet-era architecture: austere, functional high-rises that line bustling roads. Their brutally utilitarian presence is softened by grass as they clamber up the city’s hills, past the famed brandy factory (known for its cognac that once tickled the palate of Winston Churchill) and on towards the fabled Mount Ararat: said to be the final resting place for Noah’s Ark. Yerevan, the 13th capital of Armenia, has a crooked beauty, though, like any mature lady – the city is 2,799 years old – we can forgive her a few wrinkles. Landlocked between Turkey, Georgia, Iran and its nemesis, Azerbaijan, the country has been a battleground for Muslims and Christians for centuries. Dominated by the Turks during World War I, it suffered the brutal mass slaying of 1.5 million Armenians under Ottoman rule. To understand more, Yerevan’s Armenian Genocide Museum, set in the crook of the Hrazdan River, provides an indelible insight into this pogrom. The country’s troubled history, along with the fact it only gained its independence from the Soviet Union 26 years ago, has seen its landmass shrink in size over the years, and it’s now about one-third the size of Tasmania.

The last decade has seen a rapid change in Yerevan thanks to investments from its wealthy diaspora, enabling the city to open its arms to well-heeled travellers. In 2007, the three-storied, honey-hued buildings of the newly created Northern Avenue opened to reveal five-star hotels and wallet-slimming stores in the ilk of Burberry and Armani.

Meanwhile, a new cable car whisks you to Yerevan’s mountains where, among the verdant hills and ninth century monastery of Tatev, Armenia’s time stands still.

Getting around Yerevan is easy, manageable and safe. And although taxis cost just a few www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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dollars, and chauffeured cars and even private helicopter tours are simple to organise, the best way to explore this city is on foot.

Walking around the city’s tangle of streets and parks, which drip with flowers, and the buzzing cafes, I pass the Italianate opera house where well-dressed crowds head for the ballet. Instead, I make my way to the busy intersection of Mashtots Ave and Sarmen Street en route to the city’s only mosque. Diving into a rather innocuous looking bookshop, I’m awed to find intricately carved shelves and ornate armchairs, overlooked by a gilded roof dotted with moss- and ochre-hued tiles.

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A few minutes on, huddled among mid-rise houses and painted murals, is the beautifully tiled façade of Armenia’s 18th century Blue Mosque, where its tranquil gardens offer an oasis of calm from the frantic traffic outside.

Perhaps Yerevan’s best-known spot, however, is the centrally located Republic Square, where the more successful examples of Russian architecture reside. Here, neo-classical government buildings, crafted from volcanic pink-hued tuff stone, boast colonnades and majestically arched windows. By night, crowds gather to watch the fountains choreographed with lights and music.

At one point, a statue of Lenin glared from the square’s southwest corner. In 1991, it was unceremoniously pulled down and added to the courtyard of the Museum of Armenia, where it still remains.

Statue aside, the museum is worth a visit. A tour takes in everything from the world’s oldest shoe – 5,500 years old and still threaded with laces – to fully preserved wooden burial chariots and a row of giant phallus stones, some measuring three metres high.

The square is also home to the opulent Marriott Hotel, which comes with five restaurants, a spa, outdoor and indoor pools, and a

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knowledgeable concierge team.

By evening, I’m ready to take on Yerevan’s nightlife. I manage to avoid clubs playing raucous Russian pop and happily skip the Beatles tribute bar, and find the more sedate The Club, just a short amble from the opera house. Housed in a stone-walled restaurant, the space is also home to a bar, tea shop and underground bookshop where you can enjoy a few beers while sinking into cloud-like floor cushions. Malkhas Jazz Club is also popular, though I give it a miss as bed is a more favourable prospect.

The next day, an amble along Northern Avenue takes me straight to restaurant Tsirani.

I devour plates of herbaceous salads, bread baked on site, olives, vine-ripened tomatoes, platters of soft cheeses, dolmas and grilled meats. I suddenly realise, with my girth expanding, that this is the first course. The main is stuffed trout – which makes two of us.

The most arresting part of the city is the Cascade. A giant white staircase carved into the green hills, it links downtown Yerevan with its upper neighbourhoods, with parts connecting to the Cafesjian Center for the Arts. I watch crimson-hued tourists puffing for air as they clamber up the stairs – I then take the escalator. On the way up are fountains, works of art and gardens manicured with scissor-like precision. From the top, I’m rewarded with unbroken views of downtown Yerevan, unrolled across the backdrop of Mount Ararat. Although I would love to stay and enjoy the open-air jazz concerts and bars

that surround, there’s one last thing I need to do before leaving – satisfy my appetite for the surreal.

I ask my driver to take me to the tiny village of Arinj. It’s here, inside an unassuming house, that Tosya once asked her husband to create a potato cellar beneath the home.

Twenty three years later, he completed a series of caves using only hand tools, digging 21 metres down to create a subterranean network of halls, shrines and twisting staircases.

Tosya now offers tours around these caverns and tunnels.

A visit to Yerevan is a slow-burning novel.

But if you persist, you’ll find a richly textured narrative running throughout – before you know it, you’re hooked.

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Above: In December 2017, Starwood Hotels & Resorts will open The Alexander, a Luxury Collection Hotel. The 114-room property will feature an indoor pool, spa and a cigar club. starwoodhotels.com

STAY Armenia Marriott Hotel Yerevan Rates start from AMD74,130 (about A$196) per night. marriott.com Multi Grand Hotel Rates start from AMD99,000 (about A$267) per night. multigrandhotel.com Grand Hotel Yerevan A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World.

Rates start from AMD75,600 (about A$200) per night. grandhotelyerevan.com

RECOMMENDED READING PASSAGE TO ARARAT

BY MICHAEL J ARLEN

In Passage to Ararat, which received the National Book Award in 1976, Arlen goes beyond the portrait of his father, the famous Anglo-Armenian novelist of the 1920s, that he created in his earlier work Exiles. He tries to discover what his father had tried to forget: Armenia and what it meant to be an Armenian, a descendant of a proud people whom conquerors had for centuries tried to exterminate. But perhaps most affectingly, Arlen tells a story as large as a whole people yet as personal as the uneasy bond between a father and a son, offering a masterful account of the affirmation and pain of kinship. tripfiction.com/books/passage-to-ararat

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DESTINATION FINLAND | HELSINKI

YOUR LUXURY GUIDE TO

HELSINKI

A L L PR IN T S ON T HI S SPR E A D: M A R IMEK KO

S T Y L I S H , I N N O V AT I V E A N D E F F O R T L E S S LY C H I C , S C A N D I N AV I A N C I T I E S H AV E LO N G B E E N L A U D E D A S E U R O P E ’ S C A P I TA L S O F C O O L . N ATA S H A D R A G U N D I S C O V E R S H E L S I N K I C A N E A S I LY H O L D I T S O W N .

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ith Finland celebrating 100 years of independence in 2017, there has never been a better time to explore the nation’s buzzy capital.

Perched on the edge of the Baltic Sea, the ocean is an integral part of life in Helsinki. The city has a 100-kilometre shoreline and comprises more than 300 islands, connected by an extensive network of ferries. In the warmer months, bring your own picnic lunch or dinner and

make the most of the long days of sunlight. On the mainland, Helsinki’s city centre is compact and vibrant, with a good mix of outdoor pursuits and indoor diversions for when the mercury drops – the city is one of the coldest in Europe over winter.

Regardless of the weather, Helsinki steals the show when it comes to contemporary Scandinavian design and dining. From an expansive district uniting the country’s creatives to restaurants and bars serving reindeer carpaccio and cranberry-infused gin, Helsinki is the city that came in from the cold.

M A R K E T S Q UA R E K AUPPATOR I 

SHU T T E R S TO CK .COM/ S C A NR A IL 1

SEE & EXPLORE that sees it responsible for research and documentation in its field, the space also holds an impressive archive of Finnish designers. Don’t miss Utopia Now – The Story of Finnish Design (until December 2020).

Saunas are a way of life in Finland and there are more than 3.5 million across the country (servicing a population of under 5.5 million). Overlooking the Gulf of Finland, Löyly (loylyhelsinki.fi) offers traditional sauna experiences in a dramatic modern complex resembling rice terraces but crafted from pine. Inside, three woodheated saunas are carved from black concrete, Scandinavian birch and blackened steel, set beside a spa where you can cool off between sweat sessions. Or, follow the lead of locals and jump directly into the

A L L PR IN T S ON T HI S SPR E A D: M A R IMEK KO

Located in Helsinki’s busy Narinkka Square, Kamppi Chapel of Silence offers welcome – and unexpected – respite from the noise of the city that surrounds.

With its curved wooden façade and warm interior made from thick oiled alder planks, the ecumenical chapel welcomes everyone, irrespective of religion, philosophy or background.

Soft lighting filters in during the day, making it a calming place to contemplate your journey.

Originally established in 1873 by the Finnish Society of Crafts and Design – and housed in a stunning space by architect Gustaf Nyström – today’s Design Museum (designmuseum. fi) showcases a dizzying collection of more than 75,000 objects, 45,000 drawings and 125,000 photographs. With a remit

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icy sea.

A good way to tick off Helsinki’s major attractions in a short amount of time is on a private outing with Paulos Tours (paulostours.com).

You’ll travel around the capital in a luxury car, taking in

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sights such as Sibelius Monument, dedicated to the Finnish composer Jean Sibelius; spaceship-like Temppeliaukio Church, carved out of the stony ground; and Uspenski Cathedral, an Eastern Orthodox church known for its turquoise turrets. You can then hop on a boat and cruise around the city’s waterways, visiting summer cottages, saunas and the beautiful Suomenlinna sea fortress.

Evening entertainment ranges from Bar Bäkkäri (npg.fi) for live music and stand-up comedy to the Finnish National Opera House (oopperabaletti.fi), a dramatic all-white building that hosts ballet and opera six days a week. The Finnish National Opera and Ballet will debut The Land of Kalevala here on November 3 as part of the country’s centenary cel-

LOCAL TIP Over the summer months (June to September), there are special teams of uniformed men and women deployed all over the city. Known as Helsinki Helpers, and identifiable by their bright green vests, these teams patrol the inner city and cruise harbours ready to hand out information and advice.

Ask them for directions, tips on where to eat, opening hours of major attractions and more – they also carry maps and coupon booklets, which include discounts for various shops, museums and restaurants in the city centre.

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SHOP Helsinki holds its own among the heavy hitters of Scandinavia’s Nordic design belt thanks, in part, to a 2005 initiative that saw the country’s top creatives join forces to promote their mutual talents. The resulting Design District (designdistrict.fi) is a stunning showcase of Finnish finesse, encompassing a network of 25 streets and 220 designers.

Among the highlights are Lokal, a concept store that is part homewares haven and part art gallery; the Minna Parikka shoe bou-

tique, stocked with her signature glittered “rabbit’s ear” sneakers; and iconic Marimekko, known for its bold patterns emblazoned on everything from handbags to umbrellas.

The waterside Old Market Hall has served customers since 1889, but thanks to a recent makeover it’s as fresh as ever.

Stalls here sell everything from cheese and smoked meats to fish, vegetables, cakes and spices. There are a number of cafes and bars throughout so you can pause between delis and sample karjalanpiirakka (rice porridge baked in a thin rye crust) or korvapuusti (cinnamon buns).

Legendary Finnish ceramics company Arabia (arabia.fi) has been manufacturing products since 1873. The district it calls home is named after the brand, and comprises an upmarket design mall, with several intriguing shops, as well as the Arabia Museo, telling the brand’s history.

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EAT & DRINK Begin your day on the right note at the historic Karl Fazer Café (fazer. fi). Founded in 1891, the café’s striking art-deco façade gives way to a cavernous dining room where you can fortify yourself with freshly baked breads, pastries and chocolates.

Another popular early morning haunt is Johan & Nyström (johanochnystrom.fi), where the baristas take their coffee very seriously. The café’s various stations highlight different brewing methods, from aeropress to siphon and pour over, using sustainably sourced beans.

Pair your coffee with a ham-and-pickle sandwich or bircher muesli with coconut and pineapple.

Three of Helsinki’s most experienced and passionate restaurateurs are behind Vinkkeli (ravintolavinkkeli.fi). All dark wood and starched linen,

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ebrations. For something more contemporary, make a beeline for the Cable Factory (kaapelitehdas.fi), the biggest and most diverse cultural centre in Finland.

The space is home to three museums, 12 galleries, multiple theatres and an art school – it’s a popular place for concerts, festivals and fairs, year round.

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the space is dedicated to seasonal, local fare, which might mean an entrée of marinated Baltic herring with tartar sauce, followed by a main of poached perch with egg and spinach. The wine list is excellent, with rare and boutique bottles providing the perfect accompaniment.

The menu at the intimate Kuurna (kuurna.fi), with space for just 20 diners, changes every other week. Regardless of when you visit, you’re guaranteed modern Finnish food that celebrates local ingredients. The menu lists just three entrees, mains and desserts: think, roasted

eggplant with hazelnut and emmer wheat tabouleh, or cold smoked pike atop malt bread with an egg yolk crème. It’s steps from Helsinki’s waterfront where the beautiful 1868 Uspenski Cathedral shines brightly at night.

If you don’t find Trillby & Chadwick Detective Agency (trillbychadwick. fi) right away, you’re not alone. The speakeasy has no sign, just big doors on Katariinankatu Street that open to a telephone booth. Place a call and bartenders will let you in to the dimly lit space, where you can sink into velvet sofas and listen to

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jazz. The drinks menu is not for the faint hearted, with each cocktail garnering a full-page description detailing its history and prominent flavours – try the gimlet made using Old English gin.

STAY If you’re planning on spending a lot of your time in the Design District, drop your bags off at Hotel Indigo (helsinki-boulevard. hotelindigo.com), a playful introduction to the precinct. The boutique hotel’s lobby showcases creations by local designers, while the rooms are decorated

with whimsical art and artefacts complemented by spa-style bathrooms.

Also in the Design District is GLO Hotel Art (glohotels.fi), occupying a century-old castle. Despite the historic building, GLO’s rooms are the epitome of contemporary Scandi design – high-gloss polished floorboards, beds that appear to float above the ground, luxe faux fur throws and leather bedheads. Don’t miss out on a meal in GLO Art Kitchen, where Nordic-inspired fare is served up in the castle’s atmospheric cellar.

Equally quirky is Klaus K (klauskhotel.com), where

rooms come categorised by emotion: depending on how you feel, you can choose between Passion, Desire, Envy or Mystical, with the concept inspired by a 19th century work of epic poetry by Elias Lönnrot. There are also a series of Sky studios and suites – the latter include flourishes like egg-shaped beds, bespoke lighting and private balconies – and “special rooms”, such as the Movie Room with private cinema, or the eye-popping Art Suite, covered in largerthan-life cartoons by local artist Katja Tukiainen.

Sister to GLO, but a lot heavier on the glitz, is

Hotel Kamp (hotelkamp. com), a landmark in the Finnish capital since 1887. Set on the north side of Esplanadi Park, a green strip bordering an avenue of upscale boutiques, the property is all marble floors, gilded mirrors and silk throws, interspersed with Finnish contemporary graphic art. In keeping with tradition, there are three saunas and a fabulous bar that spills out onto the pavement terrace in summer.

GETTING THERE Finnair’s new A350 aircraft operate direct flights between Singapore and Helsinki, with flights touching down in the Finnish capital just before 6am. The early arrival won’t feel so bad if you’ve been in the plane’s business class cabin, designed to offer a glimpse of what you can expect at your destination. 'Clouds' drift across blue sky projected onto the ceiling of the plane; later, there’s an Aurora Borealis-inspired light show. There is plenty more colour thanks to eye-popping Marimekko prints on duvets, slippers and amenity kits.

The food also nods to the Nords, with warm smoked Arctic char and wild reindeer on the menu. finnair.com

SAMI RUOTSALAINEN, SENIOR DESIGNER, MARIMEKKO How has Finnish culture influenced Marimekko design?

Marimekko’s design philosophy has always founded to the belief that good design shall be a functional part of everyday life and last a long time, both from quality as well as aesthetic points of view. This timelessness and functionality is very Finnish to me. Also Finland’s geographical location between East and West can be seen in Marimekko’s design language: the simplicity, clean and graphic language stems from our Scandinavian influence, while the rich, ornamental shapes and bold colours represent our Slavic influence. Since the very beginning our mission has been to empower people to be happy as they are and bring joy to their everyday lives through our bold prints and colours.

What is it about Helsinki that makes it a global design capital?

From my point of view I think it’s how we Finns do see design.

For us, design items are part of our daily lives. I think we almost take those for granted as we have grown up being surrounded with design items like in schools, museums and even hospitals. As we Finns are very practical people we want to be surrounded by things that are functional and will last.

We also have high-level design education in Finland, which I see as a great advance. For example, the Aalto University in Helsinki is doing a great job with educating the future design masters.

Which Finnish design trends should we be looking out for in the coming months?

One trend we see in Finland at the moment is that the young have noticed the value of old Finnish design both in garments and home items and have started to decorate their homes with those and collect vintage pieces to their wardrobe. I’m really happy to see this as vintage furniture is one of my great passions! Another tip would be to follow the young ready-to-wear designers who are graduating from Aalto University in Helsinki; I’m sure we will hear about them in the near future. marimekko.com

Somewhere only we know

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Behold the ebb and flow of the Indian Ocean in luxurious privacy. Savour the sweet, sour and spicy tangs of the tropics in cuisine made to order. Share secrets on strolls along a sun-kissed beach and relish the sensual pleasures of bespoke spa rituals.

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JOURNEY 074 CRUISE | SEVEN SEAS EXPLORER 078 CRUISE | EUROPA 2 083 CRUISE | TRUE NORTH ADVENTURE CRUISES 088 RAIL | BELMOND ANDEAN EXPLORER 09 4 DRIVE | BENTLEY

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K E L LY A L L E N D I S C O V E R S T H E B E A U T Y I N T H E U N D E R S TAT E D L U X U R I E S A B O A R D T H E N E W S E V E N S E A S E X P LO R E R .

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P O OL DE C K

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egent Seven Seas’ new Seven Seas Explorer has been touted as “the most luxurious ship ever built”. Crafted at a cost of US$450 million (about A$569 million), it oozes extravagance, with hundreds of crystal chandeliers, custom-made Versace place settings, and 2,500 pieces of art including works by Chagall and Picasso. No expense has been spared.

My daughter and I are on a voyage from Rome to Barcelona, and we are both eager to see what all the hype is about.

Embarkation is seamless and we are soon standing in the grand atrium with a glass of bubbles, our mouths hanging open in awe of our surroundings. The first impression is very good indeed.

This might sound silly, but my biggest worry about cruising is the feeling of confinement often felt aboard a ship. I needn’t have worried on Explorer. Here in the atrium, open, curved staircases climb opposing walls under the gaze of the largest crystal chandelier I have ever seen. Italian marble gleams underfoot. The area is spacious and bright, and feels more like the lobby of a luxurious hotel than a ship. It makes sense – Explorer has one of the highest space-to-passenger ratios in the industry.

Prior to Explorer, Regent hadn’t launched a new ship since 2003, and it appears they have spent that time well – perfecting this beauty.

All of the ship’s 375 suites have spacious balconies, a separate sitting area, walk-in wardrobes and marble bathrooms. Our Superior Suite on Deck 8 was large at just under 40 square metres and stylishly decorated with dark-wood panelling and furnishings in cream and soft blue. The bathroom had a separate tub, double sinks, plenty of drawers and more than enough counter space, and the walk-in closet was very generous in size.

The ship’s masterpiece is the 412-square metre Regent Suite. The two-bedroom suite comes with an in-room spa (and unlimited complimentary treatments), a US$250,000 Steinway piano, and a glass-enclosed sitting area providing views over the ship’s bow. And to ensure a good night’s sleep, there’s a custom-made bed that took one year to construct (rumour has it

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“

“

Here in the atrium, open, curved staircases climb opposing walls under the gaze of the largest crystal chandelier I have ever seen.

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the Queen of England has the same bed).

The Explorer carries 750 passengers and has a near 1:1 guest-to-crew ratio. This level of service was a welcome bonus when looking to change dinner and excursion plans. We never waited in any lines while on board, even when settling our bill.

Regent is known for their all-inclusive offering, which makes for no unpleasant surprises at the end of a beautiful holiday. Premium wine and alcohol, all dining (including specialty restaurants), most excursions, WiFi and gratuities are all included.

Wanting to see as much as possible, we booked excursions at every port and found them all top notch. Luxury coaches with knowledgeable tour guides seamlessly shuttled us around the sights without any hiccups. Our favourite was a half-day trip to the ancient walled city of Lucca in Tuscany. One of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen, Lucca was settled by the Romans in 180BC, and much of the original layout has been preserved. We had an unforget-

table guided bike ride along the top of the old city wall with free time to wander through the narrow cobblestone streets. My only complaint is that I would have loved to stay all day, with so many boutiques and cafés to explore.

We had one full day at sea during our voyage, and I must admit, at first I was a little apprehensive, wondering how we were going to occupy our time. After a wander around the ship, my daughter and I discovered the state-of-theart fitness room and Canyon Ranch spa and decided to have a health retreat day. The gym has every fitness machine you could imagine.

We started with an abs class and then made the most of the Technogym machines (which keep count of your reps, just like having a personal trainer). After that, we spent several hours enjoying the spa’s steam room, sauna, pulsating rain showers, cool room and private infinity pool on the back deck. Surprisingly, except for the treatment rooms, the gym and the rest of the spa facilities were virtually empty. We finished the day with a massage and decided it was

too much effort to get dressed for dinner, so ordered room service followed by a movie.

For me, food is always one of the most important elements of a trip and every meal on Explorer was outstanding. The choices were plentiful with eight restaurants available. The elegant Chartreuse impressed with foie gras and lobster while Prime 7, an upscale steakhouse, served the biggest and most succulent rib-eye I have ever eaten. Our favourite restaurant was Pacific Rim. To enter, you walk past a huge bronze sculpture inspired by a Tibetan prayer wheel, before descending into the spacious dining room lined with dark timber and with pops of brass, olive green and grey. The pan-Asian menu offers delights such as beef tataki, soft shell crab, lobster tempura and miso black cod.

While we were usually exhausted from sightseeing every day, there were some great after-dinner entertainment options. The casino always looked lively and there are four glamorous lounges that often have live music. The highlight each evening was a performance in the two-tiered, 694-seat Constellation Theater, with entertainment ranging from magicians to Broadway-themed shows. If you see only one, make it My Revolution, a new production from Burn the Floor themed around Beatlemania.

The show was fantastic, with talented singers and dancers performing all of your favourite songs from the swinging ’60s.

It’s a big claim to declare a ship the most luxurious ever built. But as we disembarked in Barcelona, after five exceptional nights on Explorer, I think I agree.

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THE CRUISE An eight-night cruise between Barcelona and Rome on Seven Seas Explorer costs from A$4,683 per person. The fare includes a number of port excursions as well as all on-board activities, meals, alcohol, WiFi, gratuities and more. rssc.com

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JOURNEY CRUISE | EUROPA 2

STATE OF M O R E A K I N TO A F L O AT I N G A R T G A L L E R Y T H A N A C R U I S E S H I P, E U R O PA 2 I S O N E O F THE MOST LUXURIOUS WAY S TO E X P LO R E T H E HIGH SEAS. GRACE S M I T H E N J O Y S C U LT U R E AND QUIET TIME ON HER JOURNEY AROUND SOUTHEAST ASIA.

“G

uten morgen” says the young woman extending me a moistened towel as I step on board the ocean cruise ship that has been crowned the world’s best.

I utter an awkward “thank you” as I take it, silently reprimanding myself for not downloading a German translation app before my trip.

My discomfort is quickly forgotten as I am handed a flute of chilled champagne and ushered into the ship’s grand atrium. Light floods through immense floor-to-ceiling windows and the room’s sleek, minimalist interiors feel more suited to a Scandinavian design hotel than a cruise ship.

Contemporary artworks from the likes of Damien Hirst and Gerhard Richter hang on the walls, and curved sculptures stand on plinths.

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AT R I UM

While the curated interiors are striking, it's the clever architectural design that makes Europa 2 truly outstanding. The soaring ceilings, openplan layout and absence of thick pillars means that everywhere I turn I see the turquoise waters surrounding Koh Samui, the Thai island where we are currently docked.

I have joined Hapag-Lloyd’s grande dame for the final leg of her Hong Kong to Singapore sailing, and am looking forward to finding out why Douglas Ward (author of the 2017 Berlitz Cruise Guide) chose to bestow the ship with his first ever five-star-plus rating. Despite its stellar reputation, the German cruise ship, which sailed its maiden voyage in 2013, is still relatively unknown in Australia, with German nationals making up 90 per cent of passengers.

I am staying in the most modest of the ship’s 251 cabins, although as I open the door to my 35-square metre Veranda Suite I realise that Hapag-Lloyd’s idea of modest is vastly different to that of other luxury cruise lines. The room has its own balcony as well as a lounge, walk-in wardrobe and a bathroom not dissimilar to what you might find in a boutique hotel.

On my first day, I decide to spend a few hours luxuriating in the room, starting by taking advantage of the complimentary 24-hour room service while blaring The Beatles from my entertainment system (one of the few English artists available). After lunch, I pop the cork on my welcome champagne and drop a bath bomb in the tub, enjoying a long soak to wash off my flight.

I emerge feeling incredibly reinvigorated – I later learn that unlike most air conditioning systems, which use partially recycled air, the air on Europa 2 is drawn continuously from the outside. It is a subtle feature that makes a big difference and gives me a new appreciation for the attention to detail the German company pays when it comes to clever design.

I now have my afternoon to plan, and consider the activities on offer. I can play a round on the golf simulator, take a guided tour of Europa 2’s 890 artworks, sample the world’s largest gin collection at sea, or visit the spa for a treatment or a sauna. Not wanting to overdo it on my first day, I decide to head to the pool.

As the elevator doors open onto the pool deck, I am intoxicated by the buttery-sweet smell of baking waffles. I follow my nose to the waffle stand and take my bounty back to one of the innumerable empty sun lounges. Waiters descend on me almost instantly, holding platters of fresh

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V E R A N DA S U I T E

WELLNESS ON THE WATER Europa 2 has recently introduced a new In2Balance program on selected cruises. Guests will have the opportunity to attend lectures on the latest findings in nutritional science, eat specially designed meals and work out with renowned coaches and trainers. On-board experts include Ironman and personal trainer Jonathan Hippensteel, yoga instructor to the German football team Patrick Broome, and professional boxers Regina Halmich and Sven Ottke.

coconuts, fruit salads and assorted fruit juices.

The attentive service on deck is reflective of the ship’s near 1:1 staff to passenger ratio. The ship is almost at capacity, but a limit of 500 guests means that, rather than the crowded feeling common to even the best cruise ships, Europa 2 feels almost empty. There are dozens of free chairs around me, I never queue at the bar, and it is not uncommon to walk along an entire floor without seeing another passenger.

Once I've whiled away a few hours in the pool filled with filtered ocean water, I continue my German cultural immersion in the

ship’s signature restaurant, Weltmeere. After a failed attempt at deciphering the menu I am handed an English translation, which features international dishes along with some German favourites like wurst and brisket. It’s one of the seven restaurants on board, along with Italian, French, Japanese and pan-Asian, as well as the obligatory buffet, all included in the fare. While staff are warm and friendly in these on-board dining venues, miscommunications can be an issue and service is sometimes less attentive than what one might expect on a five-star-plus ship. A tip for international travellers is to head

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straight to the self-serve buffet restaurant Yacht Club where the selection is extensive and the views are fantastic.

After dinner, I skip the tap dancing performance in the theatre in favour of checking out the ship’s nightlife epicentre, Sansibar. I am pleasantly surprised to see plenty of couples and young families dancing to a mix of ’80s classics, pop hits and the occasional German folk song. It’s clear that the laidback luxury of Europa 2 attracts a younger demographic than its more formal sister ship, Europa.

As I order my Mai Tai at the bar, I convert the cost to Australian dollars – drinks are, surprisingly, not included in Europa 2’s rates. Instead, all non-German guests are offered a €200 (about A$295) beverage credit, which is more than enough for my eight days on board.

From my table at Sansibar’s outdoor seating area, I spot a small staircase on the side of the deck. I climb up until I reach what may be the ship’s best-kept secret. The open-air top deck of the ship has a hot tub and plenty of bed-sized sun lounges, and when I visit it is completely deserted. I can’t resist a quick soak while staring up at the clear night sky.

Sinking into my bed that night I think about the activities I have planned for the next day: a morning yoga session followed by jet-skiing off a private island and a champagne tasting in the evening. While there’s so much to look forward to, I find myself most excited about the idea of spending a paradoxical week sailing around Southeast Asia while immersing myself in the German microcosm that is Europa 2.

A limit of 500 guests means that, rather than the crowded feeling common to even the best cruise ships, Europa 2 feels almost empty.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

THE CRUISE For a standard 14-day cruise on Europa 2 from Hong Kong to Singapore, brochure prices start at around €7,972 (about A$11,858) per person, dual occupancy, in a Veranda Suite. Prices vary according to itinerary.

Fare includes welcome champagne and fruit platter, all meals on board, mini bar (soft drinks and beer), use of all on-board facilities, insurance and harbour fees. Alcoholic beverages are not included in the price. hl-cruises.com

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“Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.”

– Mary Ritter Beard (author of ‘Woman As Force In History’)

WOMEN HAND IN HAND: A JOURNEY THROUGH SOUTHERN INDIA On this unique hosted journey through Tamil Nadu, meet inspiring individuals making a real difference, fighting poverty and empowering women in Southern India. Visit entrepreneurial projects in Mahabalipuram and Pondicherry, learn how the issues facing some of India’s most impoverished communities are being tackled, and meet the local women making it happen. Marvel at their strength and enthusiasm as you visit their villages, workshops and kitchens, hear their uplifting stories and join intimate, traditional dining and sari-dressing events.

20–31 MARCH 2018 | 10 – 21 SEPTEMBER 2018 12 Days | $7,435 per person twin share Guest Host Danielle Chiel, founder of ‘Knit One, Change One’, will share her unique story of educating, empowering and employing local women in Southern India through knitting. Her project has ensured remote rural communities benefit from the craft by providing an income that helps support families and local communities.

Call 1300 851 925 for more information or to order your free copy of 2017-18 ‘Hosted Small Group Journeys’ brochure or visit abercrombiekent.com.au/hostedgroups

JOURNEY CRUISE | TRUE NORTH

NORTHERN

EXPOSURE A LEADER IN ADVENTURE CRUISING, TRUE N O R T H C E L E B R AT E S 3 0 Y E A R S I N 2 0 1 7.

K AT I E M I LT O N L O O K S B A C K AT T H E H I S T O R Y OF THIS PIONEERING AUSTRALIAN LINE.

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efore True North Adventure Cruises launches a new itinerary, two company representatives are sent to scope out the destination with “not much more than a backpack,” says brand director Peter Trembath. Using light aircraft, helicopters and small charter boats, the ground team explores the area, consulting with the local communities and unearthing spectacular natural sights, all the while working out the logistics of getting guests there. www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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CRU I S IN G T H E W E S T COA S T AB OA R D T RU E N ORT H

E XPL OR I NG T H E K I M BE R L E Y

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Each sailing is accompanied by a resident biologist and a team of six specialist guides.

This is the True North difference: a highly curated experience that is based upon “a purpose-built ship, unparalleled access, unrivalled opportunity and activities-based itineraries,” says Trembath.

The concept for Australia’s pioneering luxury adventure cruise company in the Kimberley region was seeded in 1987, when founder and managing director Craig Howson moved to the west coast of Australia and started operating fishing charters along the coastline. The areas where he was conducting these trips were, for the most part, inaccessible by land, and as he came across unexplored islands, breathtaking rivers and gorges, ancient indigenous rock art and diverse ecosystems, Howson realised he was

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onto something special.

The first purpose-built True North ship launched in 1999 and, hosting only 28 guests at a time, the adventure cruiser placed a strong emphasis on personal service, with luxurious extras such as a rooftop helicopter pad, high-end adventure vessels for excursions and on-board specialist guides. The ship made its way along the West Australian coast, offering guests the chance to experience remote, hardto-access areas with daily ground excursions and limited time at sea. True North’s trademark shallow draft is a feature not employed by other Kimberley operators, allowing “the ship to access shallow coastal areas and wild rivers in comfort and style,” says Trembath.

The further the company explored, the more regions they added to their sailing calendar, including marine life-rich Rowley Shoals and coral reefs in the Timor Sea. Bookings flooded in up to two years in advance. Trembath has a particular fondness for Rowley Shoals. “I first went there in 1990, and have taught many people to dive out there including my kids – it still blows me away,” he says.

In 2005 the company launched a new 36-guest ship to replace its older model, and with it the chance to expand itineraries once again to locations such as West Papua and Papua New Guinea and, more recently, Indonesia’s Komodo Island and the jungle-covered Raja Ampat Islands.

Likened to a “floating boutique hotel”, the

W E S T PA P UA

True North ship offers guests a choice of three cabin tiers. The Explorer Class Stateroom is the largest, spanning 15 square metres with a kingsize bed and three porthole windows. With a sundeck, observation lounge, alfresco bar, dining room serving organic Australian cuisine, and a no-shoes policy, life on board is comfortable.

But the real reason True North guests keep coming back is the on-shore experiences.

On a five-day Coral Atoll Cruise through the Rowley Shoals, guests spend their days snorkelling and scuba diving the kaleidoscopic reefs with up-close encounters with humpback whales and manta rays. On the iconic Kimberley wilderness cruises, guests can switch between deep-sea fishing adventures, scenic helicopter

flights over the winding estuaries, guided hikes, remote picnics and tours of ancient rock art.

Each sailing is accompanied by a resident biologist and a team of six specialist guides to ensure that guests not only see these spectacular landscapes, but also become informed about the surrounding ecosystems and local cultures.

Trembath says he has been with the company for 16 years because “the opportunity to be able to take people to places they wouldn’t be able to get to and at the same time keep it nice and comfortable is something pretty special”.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

THE CRUISE Rates for the seven-night Kimberley Snapshot itinerary from Broome to Wyndham start from A$12,995 per person in an Ocean Class cabin, including meals and excursions. Helicopter flights and alcohol are not included. truenorth.com.au

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CRUISE NEWS

NEW CRUISE LINE R I T Z - C A R LT O N TA K E S T O T H E S E A S

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itz-Carlton has announced it will launch a new line of ultraluxe yachts in 2019, marking the first time the hotel brand has ventured onto the oceans. The company is calling the fleet ‘anti-cruise ships’, and is promising that they will revolutionise the cruising industry. The three 190-metre vessels will carry just 298 passengers and feature designs inspired by sleek super-yachts and luxury cars.

Guests can look forward to enormous suites and bathrooms with double sinks, intimate dining spaces (and no buffets), a spa, and an open-air lounge for sunsoaking during the day and dancing at night. Bookings open in May 2018, although pricing is yet to be announced. ritzcarlton.com/en/yachts

NEW SHIPS SMALL-SCALE LUXURY WITH B E L M O N D A F L O AT

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arrying just eight passengers each, Belmond’s two new barges are the most exclusive way to explore France’s waterways. Belmond Lilas and Belmond Pivoine both have four ensuite cabins, a heated swimming pool and open decks decorated with plants. Lilas will sail through Alsace in the east of France and Pivoine will call the Champagne region home. The barges are available for exclusive use only and come with a full crew.

All-inclusive fares start from €51,365 (about A$74,387) for a six-night cruise. belmond.com

ROUND THE WORLD SEVEN SEAS MARINER UNVEILS 2020 WORLD CRUISE

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egent Seven Seas Cruises’ smallest ship, Seven Seas Mariner, will embark on a new 131-night world cruise in 2020.

Departing San Francisco on January 24, the

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journey will visit 66 ports in 30 countries, with 13 overnight stays in key destinations such as Honolulu, Tahiti, Sydney, Singapore, Mumbai and Barcelona. Fares start from US$64,999

(about A$81,600) per person twin share, and include all meals and alcoholic beverages, shore excursions, WiFi, gratuities and transfers, plus free return first class flights. rssc.com

ORDER YOUR

BROCHURE NOW

VISIT RSSC.COM

BE L MOND A NDE A N E XPL OR E R

ALL ABOARD THE

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IM AG E S T H I S S PR E A D: NIC K WA LTON

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BAR AREA

JOURNEY

RAIL | BELMOND ANDEAN EXPLORER

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N I C K W A LT O N R I D E S T H E R A I L S I N P E R U O N S O U T H A M E R I C A’ S F I R S T L U X U R Y O V E R N I G H T T R A I N , T H E B E L M O N D A N D E A N E X P LO R E R .

ith the mid-morning sun dazzling off her midnight blue and ivory paint, the Belmond Andean Explorer stands out at Cusco’s dusty Wanchaq Station – in fact, she positively radiates. Not the first luxury train in South America – Belmond has operated the Hiram Bingham day train to Machu Picchu since 1999 – the Belmond Andean Explorer, which launched in May, is the continent’s first overnighter, and represents a new chapter in South America’s love affair with refined rail travel.

After we’ve been serenaded by a traditional Peruvian pipe band and sated with rounds of silky pisco sours, the station’s bells ring and we clamber aboard, with most of the 38 guests making their way aft to the observation lounge and its outdoor viewing platform – the perfect perspective from which to watch Cusco, once the centre of the Incan empire, glide by. While we make new friends and toast our departure with flutes of chilled champagne, children wrapped in brightly coloured jerseys wave frantically from the trackside, their grandmothers in bowler hats unable to resist a grin as the shiny new train chugs by.

The scenery is enough to take your breath away – literally. The Peruvian Highlands itinerary, one of four offered, tours one of the highest plateaus in the world, with the starting point, Cusco, located 3,399 metres above sea level.

While I manage to avoid many of the symptoms of soroche, the dreaded altitude sickness that can include headaches, nausea and dizziness, I do find myself gasping for an additional gulp of breath as I navigate the train’s narrow corridors. Fortunately, one of the amenities in my cabin is a personal oxygen tank, just in case.

The Belmond Andean Explorer caters to just 48 guests across 24 cabins; my Junior Cabin features a double bed, twin armchairs and a pair of large picture windows. Interior designer Inge Moore of London’s Muza Lab retained elements of the carriages’ previous

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incarnation, as Australia’s Great South Pacific Express. Contrasting interiors in Andean slate and ivory are complemented by ornate tin ceilings, gleaming art deco air vents, original chandeliers, mahogany panelling, marquetry floors and vintage light switches that survived the refit to light another day.

Despite the nod to the past, the Belmond Andean Explorer is unashamedly contemporary and luxurious: there are pots of muña or coca tea, to relieve altitude sickness, and baby alpaca wool shawls for those chilly alpine nights – even an indulgent refill of your personal oxygen tank is only the push of a button away. The fare includes gourmet dining, all beverages and worldclass service amid modernist interiors full of colour and sophistication.

That said, it’s not all smooth sailing – the train does bounce and sway, sometimes violently, making your evening bathing rituals a fight with the forces of physics. However, the train is stable late at night, ensuring that while you might struggle to get into bed, you won’t be thrown out of it.

As our journey continues, the deep valleys narrow around us, the train chugging and shunting its way around turns so tight it’s almost possible to see into the galley several carriages down. When the mountains do take a fleeting step back, every inch of the valley floor has been ploughed and prepared for the rains, which will sweep down the rocky canyons bringing minerals from the Andes and bounty for the year ahead.

Some of that bounty ends up in meals, created by executive chef Diego Muñoz, which are served in the train’s two sumptuous dining cars or in the privacy of your cabin. Each meal is an ode to Peruvian produce. At lunch, as the train begins to climb towards the La Raya mountain range, the highest point on our two-night Cusco to Arequipa journey, we feast on choclo con queso (giant corn and cheese with paprika). There’s seared sea bass with Andean mint-scented broad beans, and cara cara (local citrus) poached with cardamom and thyme.

A firm favourite later in the trip is the alpaca tortellini. Each meal is a symphony of simplicity and flavour and is served with military-like precision by a 50-strong crew who, with their sleek leather suspenders and Latin flourish, look like they’ve just stepped out of an edition of GQ. Of course, there’s plenty more to do than sate your appetite in the dining room or soak up the alpine landscapes from the piano bar, an epicentre for socialising after the sun goes down. While the excursions along the way aren’t included in the tariff, they’re well worth a little extra expense. Explore the Incan ruins at Raqch’i; meet the Uros people of Lake Titicaca, famed for their floating villages; learn the importance of traditional knitting on the UNESCO-listed island of Taquile; and gaze upon the 8,000 year old rock art of the Sumbay Caves.

However, for me the pleasure of rail travel is to witness the ever-changing landscapes through which you pass, and that’s something that’s easy to do on the Belmond Andean Explorer. Whether its sipping piping hot almond milk at 3,800 metres under the ice-capped peaks of La Raya, waving to couples walking the Puna grasslands, or braving the chilly morning air of the observation car as the train rides the vertiginous ridges of Lake Saracocha, some of the most spectacular scenery I’ve ever seen, the Belmond Andean Explorer has become an instant classic.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

THE JOURNEY The Belmond Andean Explorer’s three-day Peruvian Highlands itinerary begins in Cusco and ends in Arequipa. Rates start from US$1,440 (around A$1,812) per person based on double occupancy and include meals but exclude off-train excursions. belmond.com

I M AG E S T H I S COL U M N + TOP R IG H T: NICK WA LTON

RAIL NEWS

BELMOND ANNOUNCES NEW GRAND SUITES

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n 2018, Belmond will introduce three new Grand Suites aboard the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. Each suite has been inspired by and named after three of the train's destinations, and will offer guests private bathrooms with showers, double beds and a living area.

The Istanbul Suite will feature embossed leather and colourful embroidered pillows and rugs; the Paris Suite will be outfitted with romantic flourishes of haute couture; and the Venice Suite will exude timeless elegance through silk fabrics and Venetian furniture. A stay in one of the suites includes private transfers to and from the train, unlimited champagne, and insuite dining. Rates start from £5,500 (about A$9,277) per person for a onenight journey from London to Venice. belmond.com/venice-simplon-orient-express

V E NIC E S UI T E

TAYLOR DEAN

ALL ABOARD THE CHAMPAGNE EXPRESS

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olden Eagle Luxury Trains has announced a new Champagne Express itinerary aboard the Golden Eagle Danube Express. The train will take travellers on a 12-day journey between Paris and Venice, exploring some of Europe’s renowned wine regions.

Highlights of the trip include two days in Paris, a stop in Reims and Epernay for exclusive tastings at champagne houses such as the Moët Estate, and a private tour of Verona. The eastbound itinerary will also travel through historic regions of Germany and Switzerland before stopping in Pisa and Florence.

The westbound trip will journey along France’s south coast and stop in Monte Carlo to visit a perfumery and medieval wine cellar. Departing in October 2018, fares start from US$12,495 (about AU$16,478) per person. goldeneagleluxurytrains.com TAYLOR DEAN

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SOFT ADVENTURE CRUISE SOFT ADVENTURE SOFT ADVENTURECRUISE CRUISE AROUND AROUND AROUND

ARANUI ARANUI CRUISES CRUISES IS IS RENOWNED RENOWNED FOR FOR ITS ITS UNIQUE UNIQUE VOYAGES VOYAGES

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Aranui 5 offers a window into the lives of local villages as it delivers essential goods during Highlights: Highlights: Aranui 5the offers a window into the lives of local villages as it delivers essential goods during 3,000 km journey from Papeete. Be part of this exceptional adventure.

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14 day cruise with all meals Local multi-lingual tour guides

(French Highlights: (French and and Polynesian), Polynesian), onshore onshore picnics Highlights: picnics and and BBQs BBQs included included

14 dayCruise cruisetowith all meals nine islands with Cruise towith nineall islands with 14 day17 cruise meals (French and Polynesian), onshore ports of call 17 ports of call (French and and BBQs Polynesian), onshore picnics included 254 passengers Maximum 254included passengers picnicsMaximum and BBQs Cruise to nine islands with All exterior cabins, over All exterior cabins, over half half Cruise toof nine with 17 ports callislands with balconies with 17 ports of balconies call Maximum 254 passengers Guided Guided excursions excursions to to archeological archeological Maximum 254 passengers and cultural sites, ancient tikis, and cultural sites, ancient All exterior cabins, over half tikis, local villages and historic churches local villages and historic churches All exterior cabins, over half with balconies with balconies

(English, (English, French French and and German) German)

Visit Visit Paul Paul Gauguin Gauguin and and Jacques Jacques Brel Brel

Local multi-lingual tour guides museums museums (entrance (entrance fee fee additional) additional) Local multi-lingual tour guides (English, French and German) 4WD sightseeing tour and 4WD sightseeing tourGerman) and hikes hikes (English, French and Visit Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel Meet local artisans; visit handicraft Meet local artisans;and visit handicraftBrel Visit Paul Gauguin Jacques museums (entrance fee additional) studios aa working pearl farm studios and and working farm museums (entrance feepearl additional) 4WD sightseeing tour and hikes Traditional dance performances Traditional dance performances 4WD sightseeing tour and hikes Optional activities: fishing, Meet local artisans; visitspa handicraft Optional activities: fishing, spa treatments, horse riding, swimming Meet local artisans; handicraft studios and a working pearl farm treatments, horse riding,visit swimming with sharks && rays. studios and a working pearl farm with sharks rays.

Traditional dance performances Traditional dance performances

D I S C O V E R T H E M A R Q U E S A S I S L A N D S D I S C O V E R T H E M A R Q U E S A S I S L A N D S T H E A R A N U I W A Y T H E A R A N U I W A Y

For further information For D I S C further O V E R T H Einformation M A R Q U E S A S I S L A N D S T H E A R A N U I W A Y e: D I S C O V E R T H E M A R Q U E S A S I S L A N D S e: info@aranuicruises.com.au info@aranuicruises.com.au T H E A R A N U I W A Y p: p: (+61) (+61) 33 9449 9449 3778 3778 For further information www.aranuicruises.com.au www.aranuicruises.com.au

For further information e: info@aranuicruises.com.au

JOURNEY DRIVE | BENTLEY

MISSION

IM AG E S T HI S SPR E A D: TOM S A LT

BERLIN

BERLIN

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HAMBURG

COPENHAGEN

S C H L O S S L UD W IG S L U S T

5 ( C I N CO) R E S TAU R A N T, DA S S TUE

T H E R E ’S N OT H I N G QUITE LIKE A LUXURY CA R A N D E XC LU S I V E H OT E L S TO G E T YO U R I M A G I N AT I O N R U N N I N G W I L D. R O D E R I C K E I M E CHANNELS HIS INNER SECRET AGENT ON A FA S T - P A C E D M I S S I O N F R O M B E R L I N TO COPENHAGEN.

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M

y exciting instructions read like the plot of a Robert Ludlum spy thriller, and I can’t help imagining myself as some Cold War operative on an undercover espionage mission.

I deploy to Berlin’s Tegel Airport on what would otherwise be a regular assignment to write about luxury Bentley automobiles and premium hotels. On arrival, my chauffeur hands me a dossier; I flick through the pages, noting our planned route through the old East Germany to Denmark.

In my mind, the pages are stamped in red with, ‘Top Secret, Burn After Reading’.

The weather is bright and inviting as we arrive at Sammlung Boros, an above ground WWII air raid bunker that now houses the impressive art collection of Christian Boros behind two metre thick concrete-reinforced walls. I mingle with art aficionados while inspecting works by Ai Weiwei, Thea Djordjadze, Klara Liden, Wolfgang Tillmans and Cerith Wyn Evans.

For our ‘escape’, I’m teamed with a co-agent (in real life, Alfie is the editor of a premium lifestyle publication in Southeast Asia). We’re transferred

to the exclusive Design Hotels collection property Das Stue, in Berlin’s leafy Tiergarten park. Prewar, this palatial manor housed the Royal Danish Embassy – the new owners, with acclaimed Spanish architect and designer Patricia Urquiola, have restored the structure in a glorious homage reflecting the grandeur and pomp that once typified this exclusive diplomatic neighbourhood. At 70 square metres, the rooms are more like suites and come with soaring ceilings and a gleaming brass bathtub as a centrepiece.

Suddenly, an envelope slides under my door.

More secret instructions, I wonder? It’s an invitation to dinner in 5 (Cinco), Michelin-starred Catalan chef Paco Pérez’s restaurant downstairs, at 8pm sharp.

We dine in amazing style with a complex degustation menu of ‘avant-garde molecular-leaning Mediterranean cuisine’. Each dish presents a culinary puzzle suitable for any cryptanalyst to ponder.

Next morning, there is no mistaking the supreme English automobile parked at the entrance of Das Stue. Bentley’s superb Continental GT (or ‘Contie’, as she is affectionately known) is powered by a mammoth six-litre W12 twin turbo

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Without a minute to lose, we're off into the Berlin traffic, the red beast m u r m e r i n g o m i n o u s ly at t r a f f i c l i g ht s and growling with anticipation as alfie applies the throttle.

TOM S A LT

COPE N H AG E N

engine and linked to an eight-speed close-ratio transmission and an advanced All-Wheel-Drive (AWD) system. We’ll be limited to a modest 130km/hr, but should the necessity arise, we could propel ourselves beyond double that speed in a matter of seconds.

I go to leap into the driver’s seat, upholstered in pure, delightfully aromatic hide and trimmed with walnut. But my enthusiasm is interrupted.

“Do you mind?”

Alfie has confidently installed herself at the helm. Without a minute to lose, we’re off into the Berlin traffic, the red beast murmuring ominously at traffic lights and growling with anticipation as Alfie applies the throttle with her calfskin boots.

Along the expressway, we effortlessly dispatch lumbering lorries and lesser contenders. The Contie makes 100km/hr from a standing start in just over four seconds, so there’s no hanging around.

We break our journey at the imposing 240 year old Schloss Ludwigslust in northern Germany, the car’s 21-inch alloy wheels noisily crushing the ornamental gravel as we park in the courtyard.

Once home to the Mecklenburg-Schwerin family, the palace now houses the State Museum of

Schwerin/Ludwigslust/Güstrow, with paintings

by Jean-Baptiste Oudry and busts by Jean Antoine Houdon forming the collection.

We overnight at the funky East Hotel in Hamburg. Over a lavish dinner at Clouds, 105 metres above the red-lit Reeperbahn at the top of Tanzende Türme tower, we marvel at the Bentley’s power output and torque (the W12 has, by the way, 472kW and 840Nm, respectively).

The next day we continue to run the imaginary gauntlet after coffee and cake at Koehn’s Schlosskeller Glücksburg before the final cruise into Copenhagen via Nyborg. There’s champagne in Balthazar at our ultimate destination, Copenhagen’s historic d’Angleterre hotel. Relieved at our successful avoidance of overzealous bundespolizei, we indulge in flutes of Bollinger laced with jokes at my expense.

Now that my ‘package’ is safely delivered, all that remains is for me to complete my imaginary undercover assignment and somehow relate this most incredible journey. That is my mission, and I choose to accept it.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

EXPERIENCE This trip was a custom itinerary by Bentley. It can't be booked, as such, but you can hire the Bentley Continental GT from Europe Luxury Cars with rates starting from €825 (about A$1,210) per day. bentleymotors.com, europeluxurycars.com

STAY Das Stue, Berlin Rates start from €236 (about A$350) per night for the Stue Room. das-stue.com East Hotel, Hamburg Rates start from €299 (about A$442) per night for the XX-Large room. east-hamburg.de d’Angleterre, Copenhagen Rates start from DKK3,250 (about A$645) for a Superior Guestroom. dangleterre.com

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T H E L AT E S T A I R L I N E N E W S AND FLIGHT REVIEWS

HIGH FLYER Q

BETTER HEALTH INFLIGHT WITH QANTAS AND THE UNIVERSITY OF SYDNEY

Q

antas has partnered with the University of Sydney’s Charles Perkins Centre to undertake a series of research projects focused on passenger health during long-haul flights.

The findings will be used to inform strategies to counteract jetlag, including on-board exercise regimes, light and temperature in the cabin, service timing

FINE CHINA IN THE SKIES

antas has unveiled a new tableware range designed by David Caon in collaboration with chef Neil Perry. Specially crafted to be 11 per cent lighter, the minimalist crockery by Noritake is made from fine bone china, while the cutlery is brush-finished stainless steel. The design of the tableware mirrors that of the new 787 Dreamliner cabins, with soft curves replacing harsh lines. The new tableware will be available on international flights in first, business and premium economy as well as business class on domestic flights. It will also be in first and business lounges, and the Qantas Club and will appear on the airline’s first 787 Dreamliner service from Melbourne to Los Angeles on 15 December 2017. qantas.com

and menu design. Qantas’ culinary partner Neil Perry will consult with researchers to ensure the wellness-optimised food offerings meet the airline’s gastronomic standards. Some Qantas Frequent Flyers will be able to participate in trials by using wearable technology that measures biorhythms during their travels. qantas.com

MEDITERRANEAN FROM A MASTERCHEF ONBOARD QATAR AIRWAYS

Q

atar Airways has collaborated with celebrity chef George Calombaris to create a bespoke Mediterranean menu to celebrate the airline’s introduction of A380 aircraft on the Melbourne to Doha route. Available exclusively for first and business class passengers until September 20, the menu features

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dishes such as lamb moussaka, Hellenic grain salad, Gazi souvlaki and Calombaris’ signature Hellenic Republic, a rice pudding sweetened with Murray River salted caramel. This is the first time Calombaris’ dishes have been available on an airline’s inflight menu. qatarairways.com

THIS IS THE FINAL BOARDING CALL FOR FIRST CLASS Steve Hui, iFLYflat

A

RESTAURANT-STYLE DINING AT AMERICAN AIRLINES’ JFK LOUNGE

merican Airlines’ newly refurbished JFK Flagship Lounge will now feature a sit-down restaurant available exclusively to first class passengers. Flagship First Dining will offer complimentary, full-service dining

with menus featuring local produce including cheese from Sprout Creek Farms and grass-fed beef from Joyce Farm.

The drinks menu will include cocktails designed by New York mixologist Pamela Wiznitzer. aa.com

Flying first class is the pinnacle of commercial air travel. It represents the ultimate in luxury before the jump to the rarefied world of private jets.

However, full-service carriers are now finding it tough to fill the very pointy end, and are beginning to reduce or eliminate first class cabins in their new aircraft orders. Even Emirates, long known for its very deep pockets, is revamping first class offerings on certain planes to have six more luxurious private suites rather than the current eight.

According to Bloomberg, the airline has been “hit by falling demand from premium Gulf passengers and industry-wide concerns about terrorism. To cope with some of the toughest operating conditions in its 30-year history, Emirates is revamping the bars on its Airbus SE A380s [and] mulling a premium economy for the first time.”

Qantas has first class only on their existing A380s and a few old 747s. The new Dreamliners will have a larger business class but no first when they launch in December. Cathay Pacific and Qatar are keeping their existing first class cabins, though they are not fitting them to new aircraft. Even Lufthansa, the world’s biggest caviar buyer, is removing first class cabins from all their aircraft except the Airbus A380s and Boeing 747-8s.

Soon a ‘super business class’ will be the norm, combining elements of first and business class: more privacy, better bedding, improved menus, top-shelf drinks and choice of when to eat. But disappearing will be the dedicated shorter first class boarding lines and there will be an inevitable reduction in service levels as the ratio of flight attendants to passengers will decrease, leading to less personalised attention.

The opportunity to fly first class could be disappearing entirely over the next three to five years, so you should try it now before it becomes just another memory of the golden age of flying. iflyflat.com.au www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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PRIVATE SKIES NEWS

STARGAZE WHILE YOU FLY

A

S

DISCOVER GEORGIA

BY PRIVATE JET

itting at the intersection of Europe and Asia, the former Soviet nation of Georgia is becoming an increasingly popular luxury travel destination, favoured for its rugged Caucasus Mountains, verdant green valleys and historic architecture.

Rooms Hotel Kazbegi in the country’s north and Rooms Hotel Tbilisi in the capital are offering guests their very own bespoke private jet itineraries, allowing visitors to

experience the country’s diverse landscapes from a new perspective. The group’s fivepassenger jet is equipped with leather seating and can fly up to 2,000 kilometres per trip, with itineraries including a viticultural exploration of Telavi, a journey into the ancient forests of Ambrolauri and a tour of the historic castles of Kutaisi. Private jet experiences start from US$1,500 (about A$1,878) per hour. roomshotels.com

irbus Corporate Jets has teamed up with Italian supercar manufacturer Pagani Automobili to create a new cabin design for the ACJ319neo, called Infinito, which features a ‘sky ceiling’, a projection of the sky above the aircraft onto the cabin ceiling.

JOURNEY PRIVATE SKIES SYDNEY SEAPLANES

SYDNEY,

SKY HIGH

W I T H I TS ST U N N I N G H A R B O U R , P O STCA R D - P E R F ECT B E AC H E S AND ROCKY COASTLINE, SYDNEY IS ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST B E A U T I F U L C I T I E S . A N D T H E B E S T W A Y T O TA K E I T A L L I N I S F R O M T H E A I R , A S K E L LY A L L E N D I S C O V E R S .

H

aving lived on Sydney’s Northern Beaches for 13 years, I thought I was familiar with the natural beauty surrounding me. From Manly to Palm Beach, there are stunning coves, lagoons, lakes, bushland and steep limestone cliffs. They’re all perfectly lovely from ground level. But to truly appreciate this part of the world in all of its glory, you need to see it from above.

One of the ‘Fly and Dine’ experiences with Sydney Seaplanes is a four-hour adventure that starts in Rose Bay at the new Empire Lounge.

Perched over the water and surrounded by glass, the lounge is a jaw-dropping location to enjoy a glass of bubbles before departing on an incredible flight over the harbour and up the coast.

Our six-seat DHC-2 Beaver Seaplane, Cambria, has good views wherever you sit. We glide across the water for several seconds before lifting off, swooping to take in views of Shark Island, the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, not to mention ferries coming and going and dozens of sailboats making the most of a perfect autumn day. We couldn’t have asked for better weather and our pilot, Gareth, reminds us to keep an eye out for whales – migration season has just started, and there have already been sightings.

Though I travel often for work, flying in a seaplane is a completely different experience to a commercial jet, and it absolutely blew me away.

Being able to fly so low over familiar places in my own neighbourhood and see the coastline from above is truly inspiring – I could stay up in the air all day. I spot surfers, paddlers, people hiking … and I’m constantly on the lookout for whales and sharks.

We continue up the coast from Manly and then cut across at Mona Vale to fly over Pittwater, landing on the water at Palm Beach. Here, the lovely team from Jonah’s – part restaurant, part boutique hotel – collect us and take us on a fiveminute drive to the top of the hill for a delicious four-course lunch with matching wines.

The view from the terrace is one of the best I have ever seen. From the perfectly

manicured gardens of Jonah’s down to the sandy coast of Whale Beach, the 180-degree vista over the water is impressive to say the least. After an alfresco drink we move inside and enjoy a leisurely meal of fried zucchini flowers stuffed with prawns, tomato jam and goat’s curd followed by tagliatelle with Morton Bay bugs, and a Wagyu beef skirt steak with a portobello and beef cheek stuffing. For dessert, the chocolate and hazelnut gateau hits the spot.

Throughout our meal, sommelier Luke Collard handpicks the perfect wines to suit each course.

Our journey back to Rose Bay is just as beautiful as the one we experienced earlier in the day, with the addition of a loop around Barrenjoey Head and a great view of the lighthouse. Sydney is beautiful on the ground, and from the sky she is near perfect.

THE FLIGHT Sydney Seaplanes has a number of ‘Fly and Dine’ packages on offer. The Deluxe Lunch at Jonah’s package in Palm Beach takes guests on a four-hour return journey to and from Rose Bay. The flight times are approximately 20 minutes each way: the left side of the plane has the best views on the way there, and the right side has them on the way back. Rates start from A$670 per person including return seaplane flights and a four-course lunch with matching wines. seaplanes.com.au

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FLIGHT REVIEW

SINGAPORE AIRLINES | SQ242 | BOEING 777 BUSINESS

CLASS

S E AT

18A

Route: Sydney to Singapore / Flight Time: 8 hours and 15 minutes / Reviewed by: Lucy Jones

CABIN This 777 has been recently refurbished with the new business class product and the cabin looks like it has just come off the production line. I fly in one of the older cabins on another leg of the same journey and the difference is obvious. It's stylish and elegant, with soft mood lighting and a taupe and chocolate colour scheme.

SEAT The seats are laid out in a 1-2-1 format, meaning everyone has direct aisle access. I'm in a window seat, though the pod is so spacious that I have to lean right over to see out of it.

The layout of the seat feels a little awkward – the footrest is off to the left so when reclining the seat you need to lie back at an angle. The seat flips over forward to form a very comfy flat bed of just under two metres. The pillows and doona are particularly nice. There are plenty of storage cubbies tucked around the seat plus an in-seat power supply with USB and HDMI ports.

SERVICE Singapore is known for its service and the crew here don't disappoint. There is a substantial delay before take off, but they manage to keep everyone happy. Throughout the flight it's attentive yet unobtrusive, and they don't

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seem to disappear once people start to sleep, as is often the case.

FOOD The airline offers a Book the Cook service for this flight, so you can choose your meal from an extensive menu up to 24 hours before your flight. But I am hopeless at deciding what I want to eat, let alone days before I'm even eating it, so I skip it. It's an evening flight, so dinner is served shortly after take off. I have a prawn entree and an exceptionally good steak for main, followed by the cheese board. Singapore Airlines has an award-winning wine list and I start the flight with a glass (or two) of Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve Champagne.

There's also an impressive cocktail list, including the iconic Singapore Sling.

lows Storms around Sydney meant we were stuck on the tarmac for almost two hours before take off. The crew kept our champagne flutes full, but it did mean a mad dash through Changi to make my connecting fight.

ENTERTAINMENT The entertainment system has also had an upgrade with a huge 45-centimetre screen and thousands of options. The handset can be used as a mini touchscreen, so you can check the flight path or flick through the catalogue without interrupting your movie.

HIGHS That 'new plane' feel is a rarity and the refreshed cabin has to be one of the best in the air. Bring on the fleetwide upgrade.

THE FINE PRINT Baggage: 40kg Loyalty program: SilverKris Wi-Fi: From US$6.99/A$9 for 15MB with SITAONAIR or time-based sessions from US$11.95/A$15 for one hour with Panasonic GCS. Prices vary dependent on aircraft type and WiFi service provider.

Pyjamas: No. Amenities kit: No.

FLIGHT REVIEW

UNITED AIRLINES | UA840 | 787-9 DREAMLINER POLARIS

BUSINESS

CLASS

S E AT

7A

Route: Sydney to Los Angeles / Flight Time: 13 hours and 45 minutes / Reviewed by: Gary Allen

CABIN The cabin is set up in a 2-2-2 layout. If you like the window seat, you’ll be stepping over your seatmate to get there. While this wasn’t an issue for me it may not suit someone who likes to stretch their legs frequently. The lighting controls are perfect on the Dreamliner – dimmed lights for relaxing and brighter for meals. The temperature always seemed to be ideal as well.

SEAT The leather-trimmed seats were large and more comfortable than most business class seats I’ve been in recently. And they weren’t even the new Polaris seats – these are being rolled out in stages throughout 2017, so you might be lucky on your next flight. The chargers for personal devices are out in the open and convenient to use.

A large common space for drinks is set between seats and there was plenty of storage space.

a seared tuna, kale and quinoa salad for the starter. The short-rib with barbeque sauce that followed was a standout and the sugarsnap peas were crisp and fresh. The signature sundae to end it all was an absolute must. There was definitely no shortage of food on this flight. The dinner was followed by digestifs and a cheese platter, and mid-flight snacks included a choice between fish and chips, tomato soup or a grilled cheese sandwich. Drinks were just as free flowing. The wine list has been curated by sommelier Doug Frost and the staff were so attentive when it came to top-ups of my Chateau Ste Michelle 2013 Indian Wells Merlot that I had to put my hand over the glass.

ENTERTAINMENT It was a typical business class entertainment set-up with a large screen, handset and a wide selection of movies and TV shows.

SERVICE

HIGHS

Outstanding – the crew manager came out and introduced himself to every passenger and the friendly staff were more than happy to stop for a chat. I even enjoyed the amusing pre-flight video.

The United Polaris Business Class is an experience, and in my opinion one of the best new products in the market. The bedding is provided

by Saks Fifth Avenue and is neatly folded and tied up with ribbons on your seat when you arrive. Be sure to ask for the cotton pyjamas, slippers and the Saks mattress cushion or gel memory foam pillow. It all adds up to a supercomfortable sleeping experience.

FOOD United Polaris has really made an effort to create exceptional food. A Bloody Mary trolley was wheeled down the aisle first, followed by

THE FINE PRINT Baggage: 32kg Loyalty program: MileagePlus WiFi: One hour: US$1-US$12.50/A$1-A$16, full flight: US$3.99-US$29.95/A$5-A$38.

Prices vary dependent on flight. You can also use mileage to pay.

Pyjamas: On request.

Amenities kit: Skincare products from Soho House’s Cowshed Spa range, which include a lavender pillow mist. www.luxurytravelmag.com.au

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EXPERIENCE 106 WALK | TASMANIA 112 TOUR | IRAN 114 MAIN EVENT 118 SHOP | DALLAS 124 GOLF | OREGON 128 SKI | AUSTRALIA 132 SAFARI | AFRICA

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WALK THIS

WAY

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B AY OF F I R E S WA L K

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very time I visit Tasmania I fall in love with something new, be it the farm-to-table food philosophy, spectacular untouched beaches, or some of the cleanest air on the planet. Operating for more than 30 years, the Tasmanian Walking Company knows how to show off its backyard, and currently operates four treks around the state.

I was fortunate enough to sample highlights of two: the Wineglass Bay Sail Walk and the Bay of Fires Lodge Walk. Both four-day itineraries have a few challenging sections of track, but for the most part they’re considered moderate walks.

WINEGLASS BAY SAIL WALK From Hobart it’s an 80-kilometre drive northeast to the coastal village of Orford where we board the beautiful Lady Eugenie, a 23-metrelong ketch-rigged yacht. With spacious teak

EXPERIENCE WALK | TASMANIA

TA S M A N I A T U R N S I T ON WHEN IT COMES TO W I D E O P E N S PA C E S AND WORLD-CLASS WA L K I N G T R A I LS. K E L LY A L L E N S A M P L E S T W O O F T H E B E S T, TA K I N G I N S O M E O F THE APPLE ISLE’S G R E AT E S T S C E N E R Y.

decks, five bedrooms and indoor and outdoor dining areas, Eugenie sees us sailing in style.

We’re heading to Schouten Island, but on the way we drop anchor at Ile de Phoques to be entertained by resident fur seals; there’s also time for a delicious ploughman’s lunch of local cheeses and cured meats.

By the time we arrive at Schouten I’m ready to get my legs moving on dry land. The 299-metre Bear Hill starts off as an easy bushwalk but soon turns into a vertical scramble up granite boulders; from the top, we’re treated to a near 360-degree view across the bay. It’s one of the more challenging sections of the trip – the descent toward the beach is much more pleasant, thanks to a mouthwatering smoky scent. Our skipper, Steve, is grilling prawns and there are tables set up with oysters, cheese, dips and sparkling wine.

After happy hour, a few of us have a swim before heading back to Lady Eugenie for a gourwww.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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“

“

it wasn't until i embarked on this walk that i realised how incredible Tasmanian beaches are.

met dinner of grilled salmon and scallops.

Mitch is the chef, assisted by our guide, Dayna.

I was amazed at the meals they put together in such a small space.

After a full day in the Tassie sunshine with plenty of exercise and great food, I sleep like a baby, gently rocked to sleep by the ocean’s slow roll.

Our next day is spent exploring Wineglass Bay. Dayna tells us that while the bay’s name refers to its shape, it has a dark past as a whaling station – when the whales were brought in for slaughter here, the bloodstained water looked like a glass of red wine. Today, though, it’s crystal clear and we walk the shoreline before heading up a steep hill to a lookout. It’s beautiful, and as a result quite popular, and is the busiest part of our journey. We finish our abbreviated version of this walk at the lookout, taking photos in the company of a friendly wallaby.

BAY OF FIRES LODGE WALK It wasn’t until I embarked on this walk that I realised how incredible Tasmanian beaches are, and hours of walking in the sand is definitely the best way to see them.

The itinerary through Mt. William National Park balances walking, kayaking, sumptuous meals and optional spa treatments. Two nights are spent at the Bay of Fires Lodge, an ecofriendly glass-and-timber pavilion perched 40 metres up the side of a cliff. As we arrive, walking along the sand from Eddystone Point Lighthouse, a pod of dolphins appears to welcome us.

We are also greeted by Daisy and Zane, lodge manager and chef, who guide us to a timber deck for warm footbaths and cold beers.

Before dinner, we gather in the lodge’s main pavilion where a fire is lit for more drinks and canapés; a long communal table fills the other half of the room, with an open kitchen behind it. Zane cooks up a delicious meal of Thaispiced chicken while we enjoy the company of new friends.

Day two begins with an idyllic morning spent kayaking, stopping at a small beach for a swim before continuing across the bay.

We finally make it and are rewarded with a picnic lunch, complete with billy tea and hot chocolate. We walk back along the dunes to

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BE AC H DIN IN G ON T H E W IN E GL A S S B AY S A IL WA L K

THE WALK The Bay of Fires Lodge Walk is a four-day trek covering 32 kilometres, beginning and ending in Launceston. Rates start from A$2,380 per person. The Wineglass Bay Sail Walk has fourand six-day itineraries, both of which begin and end in Hobart. Rates for the four-day itinerary start from A$2,850 per person.

Both itineraries operate from October to May and include all meals, accommodation and guides, and require a moderate level of fitness. taswalkingco.com.au

the lodge and I book a Tasmanian Peat Mud Bath at the spa. Overlooking the Bay of Fires, the open-air tub is filled with hot water mixed with peat, rich in minerals and with essential oils added to soothe weary muscles.

On our final morning, we hike to the road to catch our transport back to Launceston, stopping along the way at Apogee Vineyard.

Owner Andrew Pirie demonstrates the bottling process and shares some of his award-winning sparkling wine. We raise our glasses to a wonderful journey, and a sweet ending.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

LEARN MORE AT ANDAZSINGAPORE.COM

FIELD NOTES

NEW ECO-RETREAT

COSY UP TO TASMANIAN DEVILS

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ildlife lovers no longer have to leave the mainland for a close encounter with the endangered Tasmanian devil. Devil Ark, a dedicated devil breeding centre north of Newcastle, has recently begun offering accommodation on site, allowing guests to stay overnight in a self-contained cottage called Devil’s Retreat. Packages include a private two and a half hour guided tour of the facility as well as the opportunity to view platypuses in the wild. Rates start from A$649 per couple. devilark.org.au

SOUTH AFRICAN TREASURE HUNT

f you’ve ever dreamed of embarking on a real life treasure hunt, you can live out your fantasies on a Benguela Diamond Safari. Rather than following a treasure map, explorers are flown by private charter plane from luxury Cape Town hotel Ellerman House to Port Nolloth on South Africa’s Diamond Coast. They can then don a wetsuit and join the Benguela dive masters underwater to trawl for ocean diamonds buried in the seabed.

After a seafood lunch prepared by a private chef, Benguela’s expert team sort and grade the day’s findings, explaining how to identify a high quality stone. Guests are then able

to select their favourite rough diamond to be cut, polished and set into their very own piece of jewellery, ready to wear three days later. The day ends with a celebratory Dom Perignon tasting experience back at Ellerman House while watching the sun set over the ocean.

The Benguela Diamond Safari is available exclusively to guests of Ellerman House and costs R215,000 (about A$21,148) for maximum of six guests, including return air and road transfers and all food and beverages. The price excludes the cost of any diamonds purchased or jewellery designed. ellerman.co.za

R OB D / SH U T T E R S TO CK . COM

I

A DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

PHILANTHROPIC TRAVEL

HELPING MOTHERS IN NEED Abercrombie & Kent Philanthropy will soon provide much-needed assistance to pregnant women in Zambia’s Nakatindi Village with the construction of a dedicated maternity ward in addition to its already established health clinic.

The new facility will help to reduce the region’s

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high rates of mother-to-child HIV transmission as well as offering general prenatal care and post-delivery support. In addition to providing information on prevention, the new facility will assist with the early diagnosis and treatment of HIV, and will conduct weekly sessions where

medical staff will monitor infants’ growth and administer vaccines. Abercrombie & Kent makes a donation to their philanthropic fund on behalf of every guest and encourages those visiting the Victoria Falls area to stop by and visit the clinic. akphilanthropy.org

LUXURY APPS

A PPS

FOR EXCESS F R O M T E ST- D R I V I N G A B E N T L E Y TO C H A RT E R I N G A P R I V AT E J E T, N I C K W A LT O N TA P S I N T O T H E B E S T L U X U R Y T R A V E L A P P S O N T H E M A R K E T.

BENTLEY ON DEMAND The British luxury auto company recently announced Bentley on Demand, a unique app exclusively for the owners of its beautiful cars.

Accessed via The Bentley Network app, this savvy service is like Uber for the uber-wealthy and offers access to Bentley cars when visiting a different city or country. A unique alternative to a conventional limo company, the app kills two birds with one stone: it offers owners convenient and comfortable transfers as well as a test drive. The selected model is ordered via the app and then delivered to your door by a concierge, who explains the features of the vehicle and picks it up when you’re finished with it. Presently being put through its paces in Los Angeles, Dallas and New York, with other major cities in the works, the new service follows the recent launch of a Californiabased fuel-delivery service that means Bentley owners don’t have to line up for petrol. bentleymotors.com

iVIP BLACK iVIP Black, also known as the ‘millionaire’s app’, opens up a candy store of luxury goods and experiences – all you have to do is prove you’re worth it. You need to have more than a million dollars to be allowed into the coveted iVIP Black community, but once that’s squared away the app provides access to a host of indulgent opportunities offered by partners, which include hotel groups such as Firmdale and Virgin Limited Edition, restaurants by the likes of Gordon Ramsay, and a host of hard-to-source amenities, from theatre tickets and personal trainers to private islands and business jets. A

concierge service connects you with these experiences, with other perks on offer including room upgrades and limited-edition iPhones as well as priority access and special rates. The app costs US$999.99 (about A$1,263) per year. ivipworld.com

JETSMARTER Private jets are still the ultimate spending item and JetSmarter makes booking corporate jets at the drop of a hat easier than ever. Essentially, JetSmarter taps into the many ‘empty legs’ private jets fly as they relocate or travel to pick up passengers. These are said to equate to around 1.6 million hours each year, according to the app’s CEO Sergey Petrossov. The app is available for free on iTunes and the Play Store, with the option for an annual membership, priced at US$8,499 (about A$10,733) plus the US$3,000 (about A$3,789) joining fee. This gives you unlimited access to private flights as well as private concierge services, special flight fares, exclusive events and more. The only catch is you might need to be flexible with your travel plans, but that’s a small price to pay to not fly commercial. jetsmarter.com

Y.CO If superyachts are more your thing, these majestic vessels are also only a screen tap away thanks to an innovative app from superyacht charter gurus Y.CO. The invitation-only app connects would-be customers with a wealth of superyacht charter vessels, as well as all the luxurious accoutrement that the superyacht set would need, from tenders to sea toys. The app features the com-

pany’s entire range, from glorious sailing yachts and multi-million-dollar pleasure palaces to fast cruisers and even expedition-ready ships. The sea set can compare vessels, enter their specific requirements, select from a series of bespoke itineraries, and book yachts in real time. y.co/ lynk

PRIVATEFLY If convenience is just as important to you as comfort, PrivateFly is a free app for the ultimate traveller. Offering you access to a network of more than 7,000 private jets around the globe, the app lets you review models – from turbo-props to the latest business jet – and view interiors via photo galleries before selecting your choice and booking it with the swipe of a virtual credit card. If you’re in a hurry, a unique ‘Jet Me Home’ feature gives you instant access to aircraft available in their current location for flights to a designated home airport. The app also offers access to the same ‘empty legs’ that JetSmarter specialises in, with up to 75 per cent savings. privatefly.com

SOTHEBY’S A glorious showcase of beautiful and oh-so-expensive items, Sotheby’s own iOS and Android app offers collectors unique access to the auction house’s extraordinary art, jewellery, wine and vintage car collections. You can use the app’s calendar to track auctions around the globe and review lots, complete with commentary from Sotheby’s experts. You can review items via highres images and video, track things that catch your fancy, live stream auctions, and read a host of insightful articles about objects you’re most passionate about. sothebys.com www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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t the height of its power, Persia was home to 44 per cent of the world’s population, the largest empire in ancient history. Thanks to its legacy as the former centre of civilisation, modern day Iran offers countless World Heritage-listed ruins and archaeological monuments, as well as a vast salt desert, rugged mountain ranges, striking architecture and an ethnically and religiously diverse population renowned for their hospitable nature.

While political unrest, war and sanctions have kept tourists away, the country has recently been drawing interest from intrepid travellers.

Luxury tour providers have risen to the challenge, with a number of specially designed itineraries popping up over the past year. Although some travellers prefer to go it alone, Iran is one destination where taking a tour allows you to get the most out of your trip and safely navigate the unique challenges of this fascinating country.

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TEHRAN The capital of Iran offers bustling bazaars, upscale dining venues and numerous museums where visitors can view crown jewels used

by Qajar and Pahlavi royalty as well as ancient artefacts, with some pieces dating back to 7BC.

This desert city was once a hub for Zoroastrianism, the pre-Islamic religion of Iran. A day in Yazd is best spent meandering through the maze of historic alleyways, visiting Zoroastrian temples and stopping off at a teahouse or two.

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By Rail European operator Golden Eagle Luxury Trains is the first and only private rail company to offer journeys through Iran. The 18day Persian Odyssey (northbound) itinerary from Tehran to Moscow and the 14-day Heart of Persia journey take in the region’s most fabled attractions as well as some less commonly visited destinations, such as the medieval mudbrick citadel of Rayen, and Mahan, which houses the tomb of the famous Soufi, Shah Nematollah Vali.

Prices for the Heart of Persia journey start from US$16,495 (about A$21,267) per person twin share. Prices for the Persian Odyssey journey start from US$20,995 (about A$27,069) per person twin share. goldeneagleluxurytrains.com

IRAN

By Road Experiential travel specialists Abercrombie & Kent offer a 16-day journey through Iran’s most popular destinations, beginning and ending in Tehran. Special highlights of the trip include a visit to the oasis town of Kashan, on the border of Iran’s salt desert, and a stop-off at Susa, the site of one of the oldest civilisations in western Asia. Transport is primarily by car, with one flight from Tehran to Ahwaz.

Prices for Iran: A Journey Through Persia start from A$11,350 per person twin share. abercrombiekent.com.au

ISFAHAN The city of Isfahan served as a hub for international trade and diplomacy during the reign of the Persian Empire. Key attractions include the city square, Naghsh-e Jahan, which houses two of the world’s most spectacular mosques, and the Qeisarieh Bazaar where visitors can purchase some of the city’s art and handicrafts.

SHIRAZ This 4,000 year old city is the birthplace of many of Iran’s most famous poets, writers and winemakers, and is known as the cultural capital of Persia. Shiraz is also home to a number of impressive botanical gardens such as Eram Garden, which was constructed between the 11th and 14th centuries.

PERSEPOLIS Dating back to the sixth century, Persepolis was once the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Persian Empire.

The World Heritagelisted site houses the ruins of the palaces of King Darius the Great, Xerxes and Artaxerxes.

By Sky National Geographic operates a 19-day private jet tour from Iran to Turkmenistan, Belarus, Serbia, Slovenia, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Corsica. Guests spend three days in Iran, visiting Isfahan and Kashan, before returning to the luxe private Boeing 757 jet to travel to the next destination. Anthropologist and linguist David Harrison will be joining the expedition to share his knowledge and insights.

Prices for National Geographic’s Great Empires by Private Jet: Ancient Persia to the Mediterranean start from US$68,950 (about A$90,538) per person twin share. The journey begins and ends in Madrid. nationalgeographicexpeditions.com www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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uxury cruise line Crystal Cruises is offering guests VIP access to the Abu Dhabi Formula One Grand Prix as part of their 17-day Indian Ocean Discovery voyage departing from Dubai. Hosted at the Yas Marina Circuit, the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix is the only twilight race on the F1 calendar, meaning spectators watch the sun set during the

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course of the 55-lap race. Crystal Cruises guests will witness this spectacle from the event’s most exclusive seating, located in the air-conditioned upper floors of the pit building in the Formula One Paddock Club. An open bar, fine cuisine, access to the roof terrace reserved for VIP guests and the opportunity to walk the pit lane complete the exclusive experience.

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PRICE

PACKAGE INCLUDES

A supplement of US$9,999 (about A$12,647) is payable per person, in addition to cruise fares, which start at US$4,930 (about A$6,220), including taxes, fees and charges, per person for the Indian Ocean Discovery itinerary.

All transport, race tickets with Formula One Paddock Club access, unlimited food and beverages, and exclusive experiences. crystalcruises.com

PARIS FASHION WEEK 26

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hat could be more refined than attending fashion week in the home of haute couture?

The glamour of Paris Fashion Week draws fashion industry heavy hitters, celebrities and socialites alike, so it’s not surprising that seating at the runway shows and access to the ultra-exclusive Fashion Week parties are hotly contested. Bespoke concierge service Sincura Group provides a number

of exclusive Paris Fashion Week packages, offering access to the runway shows of brands such as Chanel, Dior and Valentino as well as a selection of Fashion Week activities and Parisian experiences.

PRICE €15,500 (about A$23,169) per person, based on two guests

PACKAGE INCLUDES Invitation to three top-tier fashion runway shows, three VIP shopping experiences with a personal shopper, invitation to one official Paris Fashion Week party, a gastronomic dinner at a top Paris restaurant, private luxury ground transportation to and from all events, and a personal bilingual host. thesincuragroup.com

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he biggest carnival in the world, Rio Carnival attracts more than two million people per day. This means that finding an uncrowded space from which to observe the eclectic costumes, samba school showdowns and extravagant floats can be nearly impossible.

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Luckily, Carnival Bookers offers luxury suites in the sought-after sector eight of the Sambadrome parade area, where the samba schools face off. The air-conditioned suites look directly out onto the parade, and a premium buffet and open bar are available throughout the day.

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PRICE

INCLUSIONS

Prices for the two major days, Sunday 11 and Monday 12 February, start from US$1,658 (about A$2,092) per person, per day.

Open bar, waiter service and firstclass buffet. carnivalbookers.com

EXPERIENCE SHOP | DALLAS

FORGET EVERYTHING YO U K N OW – O R T H I N K YO U K N OW – ABOUT DALLAS. T H I S DY N A M I C TEXAN CITY IS H O M E TO S O M E O F A M E R I C A’ S BEST SHOPPING, WITH PLENTY OF OPPORTUNITIES FO R E XC E L L E N T FOOD AND ART IN BETWEEN. CHRISTINA GEYER, E D I TO R I N C H I E F OF DALLAS STYLE MAGAZINE P A P E R C I T Y , TA K E S U S O N A TO U R O F H OTS P OTS I N H E R H O M E TOW N .

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he cowboy stereotypes often associated with Texas are a thing of the past. Dallas today is one of the most dynamic cities in the United States: the internationally renowned Dallas Art Fair is poised to surpass Art Basel Miami Beach in its relevance for collectors and world-class roster of exhibitors; cowboy boots and Stetsons have been replaced by Celine bags and Louboutins; and with more than 50,000 people moving here every year, the cultural landscape is set to become even more diverse. Here’s how to spend a weekend in the Lone Star State’s most stylish city.

CHECKING IN Housed in a revamped 1920s building in the revitalised Downtown business district, The Joule is one of those places you won’t want to leave. You’ll require a penthouse room – I suggest Penthouse

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West, which comes with a full kitchen and dining room, pool table and two terraces with sweeping views of the city. Founded by billionaire oilman Tim Headington, the hotel includes a topnotch art collection, anchored by Roger Hiorns’ crystal-covered engine in the Commerce Street lobby and Tony Tasset’s nine-metre Eye sculpture, which ‘stares’ at the hotel from a park across Main Street.

EARLY BIRDS Begin your day at the hotel’s café, Weekend Coffee, which serves a mean cold brew, divine pastries, and Local Press + Brew juices. Perhaps my favourite reason to have breakfast here is the selection of hard-to-find publications, including Cereal, Kinfolk and Gather. For more bookish finds, make a quick stop inside the Taschen Library, in the lobby.

RETAIL FIX Two shopping destinations in Downtown require your attention. First, the

Neiman Marcus flagship store, which celebrates its 110th anniversary in September. The retailer is a Texas icon, frequented by Dallas’ social swans – on any given day you may spot former First Lady Laura Bush roaming the shoe salon or Gene Jones, wife of Dallas Cowboys owner Jerry Jones, on the hunt for a new Chanel suit. The couture salon and collection of precious jewellery are the stars of this store: during one recent visit I played dress-up with a 25-carat diamond ring.

New to the same Downtown block is Forty Five Ten on Main Street. Designed by Dallas-based Droese Raney Architecture, the building is furnished with custom-made rose-gold Barcelona chairs; art by Tracey Emin, Jose Davila, and Mario Testino; and slabs of Arabescato Carrara marble. Brands for her include Alexander Wang, Rosie Assoulin, Junya Watanabe, Miu Miu and more. For him, think Lanvin, Dries Van Noten, Haider Ackermann, The Elder Statesman and Gucci. There are departwww.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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ments dedicated to beauty – fragrances

by Douglas Little, a standalone Le Labo boutique, make-up by Edward Bess – home decor, jewellery and shoes.

NOON BREAK As you’ll need to refuel after the morning’s retail therapy, make a reservation for lunch at Mirador on the fourth floor of Forty Five Ten. Ask for a table facing one of the Juergen Teller photographs, enlarged from a commissioned series he did for cookbook, Eating at Hotel Il Pellicano. Order the whipped ricotta toast followed by the farro bowl with a soft-boiled egg. Skip dessert and head downstairs to Copper Bar for a glass of bubbles while you retrieve your car from valet parking – it’s time to leave Downtown.

DECORATIVE DALLY A tour through the Dallas Design District is a must. With real-estate moguls buying up plots of land in the neighbourhood, new showrooms and restaurants are opening alongside achingly cool hotels – Sir Richard Branson recently broke ground on his Virgin Hotel here, to open in 2018. For furnishings for your Whitsundays villa, stop into Jan Showers’ exquisite Slocum Street showroom. The AD100 designer is known for her glamorous, modern-French style, and her boutique is testament to this.

Should your riad in Marrakech require a makeover, visit Ceylon et Cie for inspiration. The huge store is overflowing with eccentric treasures, decorative objects, furniture, textiles and accessories, all sourced by jet-set designer Michelle Nussbaumer during her travels.

BUT FIRST, ART It wouldn’t be a trip to Texas without a stop at the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth, a 35-minute drive from Dallas. The Tadao Ando-designed museum has housed megawatt exhibitions from Frank Stella and KAWS, and is well worth a walk through. Back in town, the Nasher Sculpture Center in the Dallas Arts District houses the

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Above: Mirador restaurant on the fourth floor at Forty Five Ten.

private collection of modern and contemporary sculpture from Patsy and Raymond Nasher; the museum is home to works by Matisse, Picasso and Alexander Calder, among others. In the same neighbourhood, the Dallas Museum of Art is far too expansive for just one visit. Make time to see the Reves Collection, which includes some of the most sought-after Impressionist paintings in the world.

THE BEVERLY HILLS OF TEXAS An outdoor shopping mall, Highland Park Village brims with exclusive retailers all within a tiny sliver of Dallas’ most exclusive and expensive postcode. Here you will find boutiques from Chanel, Alexander McQueen,

Balenciaga, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Dior, Tom Ford and Stella McCartney – to name a few. For international shoppers, the Village has an on-site TaxFree Shopping office, which means you can claim tax back on your purchases straight after buying them.

NEXT STOP: NORTHPARK CENTER NorthPark is one of the only shopping destinations in the world where internationally renowned art meets worldclass shopping. The art collection includes works from Andy Warhol, Frank Stella, Joel Shapiro and James Rosenquist on display to the public throughout the shopping centre. It’s impossible to miss Mark di Suvero’s monumental Ad Astra, 2005, a towering red sculpture

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holding court at the north entrance.

Between stops at Roberto Cavalli, Neiman Marcus and local fine jewellery destination Eiseman Jewels, schedule a private, complimentary art tour via the NorthPark Center Concierge.

DINNER RESERVATIONS Dallas’ dining scene is among the best in the country, and it’s difficult to choose standout dinner locations. For great food with a side of people watching, go to Le Bilboquet in the Knox-Henderson neighbourhood – it’s not easy to get into, but it’s well worth getting your hotel concierge to work some magic. On the menu, the Cajun chicken remains a favourite, as is the steak tartare with a side of divine pommes frites.

Clockwise, from left: Mark di Suvero's Ad Astra, 2005 on display in NorthPark Center; Main Street Lobby at The Joule; take a (stylish) seat at Forty Five Ten.

LATE NIGHT

Once a private estate built for a cotton baron in the 1920s, the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek is storied for many reasons – President Franklin D Roosevelt famously stayed here, and a special elevator was built for his own private use. Today, it’s the late night bar scene that has this destination hopping. Grab a seat on the patio, which overlooks the lush Turtle Creek, and order a martini.

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@ChristinaMGeyer

@PaperCityMag

IF THERE'S TIME...

V.O.D: Visit for hard-to-find French designers, including Thierry Colson, Roseanna, Lemaire, Alexis Mabille and Isabel Marant.

Vintage Martini: The city’s best-kept secret for vintage designer couture that is vetted and sourced by fashion expert Ken Weber.

De Boulle Diamond & Jewelry: This is the only jewellery boutique in Texas that carries Patek Philippe – and that’s just the start. Other precious pieces here range from must-haves by Rolex, Bucelatti and David Webb.

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EXPERIENCE GOLF | OREGON

C R A I G TA N S L E Y D I S C O V E R S T H AT O R E G O N I S H O M E T O S O M E OF THE WORLD’S BEST PUBLIC G O L F C O U R S E S – A LT H O U G H N O O N E E L S E S E E M S TO K N OW ABOUT THEM.

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here’s a moment on the back nine holes of Pronghorn Resort’s Tom Fazio-designed championship course when I actually think I’ve stumbled into a Disney film. The sky is so blue it looks a swollen sort of purple, and in the distance, 2,500-metre snow-capped mountains are staggered across the horizon. As I stand at the tee-box, I try to determine whether to hit my ball left or right of the slow trickling mountain brook that cuts the fairway in two. Beside it, a green is positioned between sharp volcanic rock walls and two huge sand traps.

In the end, it matters little that my drive careers off at right angles, defying the nuances of this clever Fazio layout. Because from where I stand in the seemingly eternal sunshine of an Oregon summer (whoever said Oregon is wet and grey obviously never went beyond Portland), I’m happy to ride up and down this course in a buggy, soaking up the setting.

Oregon may not attract even a fraction of the golfers its neighbour, California, does in a year. Yet it offers up some of the United States’ best public courses. For those who do make it here, days like this one are not uncommon: I have one of the country’s best championship courses entirely to myself.

Here in Oregon’s centre – near the cosmopolitan, adventure-crazy town of Bend – you’ll find the Central Oregon Golf Trail, home to two dozen golf courses, three of which are rated in America’s top 55 courses.

There are more than 300 days of sunshine in a year around these parts and you’re up high where the air’s thinner, so your ball goes further. And I like that.

One of the highest-rated courses in these parts is this one at Pronghorn Resort where I’ve entered through a front gate into a private world of oldgrowth juniper forest where two championship courses run out side-by-side.

Just a few minutes’ drive up the road, Sunriver Resort has four championship courses on site, one of which, Crosswater, hosted a US PGA Championship in June. Also nearby, Tetherow Golf Resort offers a links-style championship course with views across the valley as far as your eyes can see.

Bend is the kind of place where you waste entire afternoons perusing real estate windows thinking you might move here, though you know you probably won’t. It’s not just the surroundings – though Bend, with its red brick buildings and tree-lined streets where people dine al fresco in trendy eateries, was just named one of the best towns to live in the USA by Outside magazine – it’s the lifestyle, and it’s the people who live here. If there are friendlier souls, they’re probably fictional characters on TV shows.

I spend a week in the area, playing golf each morning then hiking, rafting, or biking in the afternoon, before evenings in town spent bar-hopping in the long summer twilight as the mountains on the horizon turn toffee-brown with the slow-setting sun.

When I take off west I’m told the coast is like being in a different state of the US entirely. But that’s what makes Oregon so desirable, locals say: it’s not the same place all over. And so I hit the highway west, passing Kombis and Airwww.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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W h e n th e w i n d b lo w s – a n d b oy, does the wind blow through summer – Ba n d o n D u n es i s a r g u a b ly th e planet’s toughest golf links resort.

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streams driven by old hippies who left California when peace, love and understanding got side-tracked by crowds, increased property prices and severe drought. I drive until I climb into firtree covered mountain ranges, taking a slow, winding road that follows the pretty North Umpqua River. There’s sheer volcanic cliffs off the side of this road, and vistas so pretty with wildflowers and sparkling water where the river bends just beside the road that I have to stop every few kilometres to take it in away from the wheel.

I keep driving west – when I get near the Pacific Coast, the temperature drops a full 15 degrees as a blustery wind blows its way across the chilly, whitecapped ocean. It’s near gale force by the time I stop my car, which must mean I’m at Bandon Dunes.

When the wind blows – and boy, does the wind blow through summer – Bandon Dunes is arguably the planet’s toughest golf links resort. Sure, you can argue about that with the folk on Scotland’s west coast and Northern Ireland’s north coast, but I’ve played across all coastlines and never experienced anything like Bandon Dunes. It’s home to five of the world’s top links champion-

ship courses on the one site. These five courses stretch out for kilometres, with greens perched on rocky plateaus high above the sea. Most days, coastal fog creeps across fairways, making the improbable task of achieving par almost entirely impossible.

Cottages are built throughout the property and there are six restaurants and bars on site, so golfers never need leave for the world outside. Here, groups of players in Titleist caps can talk golf for hours without fear of a single interjection. It is that place every true golfer has dreamt about.

Bandon Dunes has three courses listed in America’s top 10 public courses – it’s that good. And yet, like the rest of this great golfing state, I tee off on uncrowded fairways, never once stopping for the group in front – nor ever being hit up on by the group behind.

There are more than 220 golf courses to find all across Oregon and most of them are as quiet as the ones I’ve played. It would take a year to play them all – it’s best to get started soon.

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THE COURSES Green fees at Bandon Dunes start from US$85 (about A$113) per round in January to US$275 (about A$365) from July to September. Play another 18 holes the same day from US$45 (about A$60, January) to US$140 (about A$186, July to September). The third round is free. bandondunesgolf.com A round of 18 holes on either course at Pronghorn Resort is US$210 (about A$279) weekdays and US$250 (about A$332) on weekends. pronghornresort.com A round of 18 holes at Sunriver Resort costs from US$43 (about A$57) to US$64 (about A$85), depending on the season. sunriver-resort.com Golf at Tetherow Resort between June and September costs US$175 (about A$232) for 18 holes and US$100 (about A$133) at other times of the year. tetherow.com Golf at Glaze Meadow Golf Course between June and September costs US$79 (about A$105) for 18 holes and US$59 (about A$78) at other times of the year. blackbutteranch.com/golf/glaze-meadow For more information on Oregon’s golf scene, visit traveloregon.com and visitcentraloregon.com.

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EXPERIENCE

T H I S R E C E N T LY CO M P L E T E D LO D G E B R I N G S A TO U C H O F EUROPEAN CHALET C H I C T O FA L L S C R E E K .

GARY ALLEN H I TS T H E S LO P E S.

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SKI | ASTRA LODGE

he 2017 Australian ski season got off to something of a slow start, but some late July storms (plus concentrated snowmaking efforts) means there’s plenty of the white stuff crunching under my feet when I arrive at Falls Creek.

I’m headed for Astra Lodge, the European-

style ski lodge almost 30 years in the making. It first opened in 1988 and was the most glamorous and sought-after lodging in the resort. Falls Creek local Rosy Seaton and her husband Seumas Dawes purchased the lodge in 2014 with the intention of restoring it to its former glory. With original architect Grant Amon on board, the site has under-

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gone extensive renovations over the past three summers, and was completed in time for the 2017 ski season.

Falls Creek is a village with no cars – only snow tractors – and after a quick phone call I’m greeted by live-in manager Tom Simpson, who pulls up in Astra’s signature black snow vehicle. He shakes my hand and loads the bags, and in the five minutes it takes to arrive at the lodge we are already on a first name basis. His warmth is infectious, and as he carries my luggage up the snow covered steps and takes me on a detailed tour around the lodge, I marvel aloud at how he is doing everything himself. “I’m a jack of all trades,” he laughs.

The hotel is indeed reminiscent of a chic European ski chalet. Granite, hand-cut stone and timber are complemented by modern touches of steel, leather and glass. A dramatic chandelier hangs in the entrance. My suite, accessible with the swipe of a clever rubber wristband, is simple but elegant; dark, locally sourced timbers adorn the walls, with plush carpets and furnishings in warm, neutral tones. Touches of copper and printed cushions lend a contemporary edge, and a faded turquoise headboard provides a welcome splash of colour. The charcoal-tiled bathroom, full of botanical amenities, offers a walk-in

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rain shower and large freestanding bathtub.

Even the most basic rooms are equipped with an Apple TV, minibar, and tea and coffee making facilities.

Astra aims to emulate the classic European ski-in, ski-out experience, and key to this concept is the new locker room. Equipped with heated drying lockers and a spacious central cedar bench, the room is directly accessible from outside; the automatic doors and lockers open and close with a simple swipe of your wristband. Across the hall is Adalbert Leibetsader, a ski champion and director of Skimetric, a service that combines biomechanics, shoemaking and in-depth assessment to seriously up your ski game. You can have a one-on-one session with Adalbert, and have a pair of boots custom made and fitted in-house. Alternatively, the helpful ski hire next door will collect your gear from your locker at the end of your stay.

After a long day on the slopes, be sure to secure a place at the impressive fine-dining Italian restaurant (bookings are hotly contested) before heading to Astra Day Spa. The 90-minute hot stone massage with warm volcanic stones is a particularly effective method for relieving sore muscles. Alternatively, take a dip in the magnesium mineral pool or head

to the cocktail lounge, which is often still packed at 9pm.

On a weekend this is the place to be; if you’re lucky you might catch Nicky Bomba of the John Butler Trio playing. Almost the entire village – tourists, celebrities and locals alike – can be found relaxing here among the leather sofas, swivel armchairs and animalskin rugs. If you can find space at the bar, order the Spiced Bright Cobbler – sweet red wine, chocolate and a pinch of Szechuan spice – or some mulled wine made fresh to order.

When Rosy and Seumas took the helm several years ago, they expressed their desire to restore Astra to its rich, glorious history, and provide extremely personalised, familyfriendly service. And at Astra, this has definitely been achieved.

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STAY Rates start from A$269 per night for a Deluxe Room with a minimum two-night stay in peak season. astralodge.com.au

SKI NEWS

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he Eastern is a new style of boutique self-contained accommodation at New South Wales ski resort Thredbo. Set in the foothills of Mount Kosciuszko and a fiveminute walk from Thredbo Village, this modern one-bedroom studio space offers impressive views of the mountain and High Noon.

Ideal for couples or a small family, the stylish apartment features pale oak floors, minimalist Scandinavian-inspired furnishings,

PISTE AND QUIET artwork and a double bed with linen sheets in shades of charcoal. The bathroom, filled with Aesop amenities, is clad in Italian stone and has heated floors.

The space is designed to be flexible. A fully self-contained kitchen, equipped with cookware from Le Creuset and crockery from Country Road, is suitable for both takeaway dinner nights and gourmet home-cooked meals. An Apple TV and complimentary WiFi is

available for those who wish to stay connected, alongside a coffee machine and a washer and dryer. There is a large storage area for skis (and bikes in summer), and drying space by the door for storing your gear. A balcony makes for great morning views of the ski runs below.

For those who don’t wish to make the fiveminute trek to the village with their skis, a courtesy bus stop is right outside. theeasternthredbovillage.com

NEW PROPERTY IN 2018 The team behind The Eastern are set to open a new boutique property in time for the 2018 ski season. Overlooking Thredbo River, the new space will comfortably house up to five guests. Like its sister property, the apartment is expected to be designed with a Nordic aesthetic, but moodier in style with darker timbers, double height pitched ceilings and fireplace.

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luxury with a conscience

EXPERIENCE SAFARI | CONSERVATION

F O R G E T G A Z I N G AT A N I M A L S FROM THE COMFORT OF A J E E P – T O D A Y ’ S A F R I C A N S A FA R I EXPERIENCES ARE ALL ABOUT TO U R I N G W I T H A C O N S C I E N C E .

S A FA R I E X P E R T S U E W AT T UNCOVERS THE CONTINENT’S EC O -TO U R I S M P I O N E E R S .

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n Swahili, the word ‘safari’ traditionally means ‘journey’, but it has become synonymous with images of jeeps driving across Africa’s sweeping savannahs, home to stampeding wildebeest, majestic elephants and prides of lions. Today’s luxury safaris, however, are offering journeys of a different kind.

Instead of passively watching wildlife, travellers can join conservation activities ranging from rhino translocations to habituating gorillas to patrolling with anti-poaching units. Luxury now is as much about experience as exclusivity – it’s about inspiring a connection between you and the natural world. Often, it’s about inspiring your inner philanthropist, too, intending that new connections will lead to muchneeded donations for conservation and community projects.

Shelley Cox, ambassador for leading conservation and luxury tourism company Great Plains Conservation, believes that while guest involvement in these projects is vital for raising awareness and encouraging broader global responsibility and financial support, it does involve complex issues. “The term ‘sustainable tourism’ is used frequently now, and can often focus more on the needs of tourists than on the deep-rooted conservation aspects, socioeconomic problems and needs of the communities themselves,” she says.

There are plenty of examples. Projects offering walking with lions or riding elephants have nothing to do with conservation, and village visits can potentially be intrusive voyeurism rather than allowing a genuine understanding of different cultures. Thankfully, there are authentic sustainable experiences that go beyond simple money making and pandering to the increasing demand for traveller kudos.

Together with like-minded company andBeyond, Great Plains Conservation runs the Rhinos Without Borders program, translocating 100 rhinos from South Africa, where poaching is rife, to the safer environs of Botswana. Guests who are willing to become large donors are able to join their rhino relocation adventure, having hands-on involvement in the translocation and exclusive access to the experts involved while enjoying a luxury safari and helping the survival of rhinos.

Tourism has also played a significant role in the survival of rare mountain gorillas, hailed as one of Africa’s greatest conservation successes.

Visitors spend one precious hour with our primate cousins in the rainforests of Rwanda and Uganda, with permit fees contributing to their protection and to the communities living nearby.

WA LK ING W I T H E L E PH A N T S AT S A NCT UA RY B A IN E S ' C A M P

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The Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) has recently taken gorilla safaris a step further, providing a new four-hour experience in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, which involves tracking semi-habituated groups, ones that are used to their trackers but not to strangers. This encounter helps the habituation process as the gorillas become familiar with seeing different people and, at US$1,500 (about A$1,878), it helps the conservation coffers, too. But visitors also benefit. “We wanted to offer something more enriching than regular tracking,” Pontius Ezuma, UWA’s conservation manager explains. “Things like gorilla behaviour, what nests look like, collecting samples for analysis, finding their trail.”

It’s a deeper, more immersive experience and, with the gorillas often being less docile than fully habituated ones, it’s an edgier experience, too.

In Rwanda, luxury operator Wilderness Safaris has just opened the beautiful Bisate Lodge near Volcanoes National Park, aiming to influence the bigger picture of conservation. With evening presentations and on-site gorilla experts, visits to local markets and farms, and an invitation to plant trees in their massive reforestation project (more than

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15,000 trees have been planted to date), they wanted to offer something beyond what they term ‘the gorilla express’. Wilderness Safaris chief operating officer, Grant Woodrow, says: “We hope Bisate will make a dramatic impact, not just on the critically endangered mountain gorillas but also the entire ecosystem of the Virunga Massif and the rural people living adjacent to it.”

In Botswana’s Okavango Delta, travellers can get up close and personal with elephants – without riding them. Orphaned through culling in South Africa, Jabulani and Morula were brought up by zoologist Doug Grove and now live in Sanctuary Retreats’ private concession. Guests at the luxurious Baines’ Camp or Stanley’s Camp can walk with them, trunk-in-hand, and learn all about elephants. Their fees support Living with Elephants, a grassroots charity working to alleviate human wildlife conflict by introducing local children to the pachyderms, helping them understand their behaviour and teaching them the importance of conservation.

Africa’s elephants and rhinos face ever-increasing threats from human wildlife conflict and poaching. In Zimbabwe, guests can gain an insight

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Luxury is now as much about experience as exclusivity – it's about inspiring a connection between you and the natural world.

Opposite page: The author stands with Jabulani the elephant in Sanctuary Retreats' private concesssion.

This page, from top: Accommodation at Sanctuary Baines' Camp; the infinity pool at Bumi Hills Lodge in Zimbabwe.

GET INVOLVED: SAFARIS WITH A CONSCIENCE Rhinos Without Borders will be offering future relocation adventure safaris but because of security implications, dates are not publicly announced.

Costs depend on the number of guests. rhinoswithoutborders.com annarathmann@greatplainsfoundation.com Permits for the Gorilla Habituation Experience cost US$1,500 (about A$1,878) per person from the Uganda Wildlife Authority. Regular gorilla trekking permits cost US$600 (about A$751) ugandawildlife.org

into protecting wildlife by spending a day with the Bumi Hills AntiPoaching Unit, patrolling with rangers, disarming or confiscating snares and traps, and noting animal locations.

“Obviously, the safety and security of our guests and rangers are paramount,” Nick Milne, trust manager for the Bumi Hills Foundation, explains. “And there are operational security risks: information on patrol times, locations, ranger identities and discoveries are all potentially damaging if they get into the wrong hands. So we’re very strict on who we allow to take part and on protocols to be followed.

“Although conservation activities are brilliant for creating awareness of what we do, we can’t guarantee they’ll happen. They can’t interfere with our primary objective, which is to protect our habitats and wildlife.”

Africa’s wildlife is, after all, the reason we travel on safari – and any safari activity worthy of the word sustainable must put that first.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

Expert Africa offers luxury tailor-made trips to Rwanda. A three-night trip with all-inclusive accommodation at Wilderness Bisate Lodge, gorilla tracking permit, airport transfers, and a private vehicle and guide costs from £4,967 (about A$8,172) per person twin share. Gorilla permits in Rwanda cost US$1,500 (about A$1,878) per person. expertafrica.com Sanctuary Baines’ Camp costs from US$750 (about A$939) per person, per night twin share for stays of between one and three nights. The Walking with Elephants experience is an additional cost and starts from US$285 (about A$357) per person. sanctuaryretreats.com Deeper Africa offers an 11-day Zimbabwean itinerary including Bumi Hills Anti-Poaching Unit activities from US$10,499 (about A$13,146) per person. However, the anti-poaching activities cannot be guaranteed.

Guests staying at Bumi Hills Lodge may be able to join the Unit at short notice and donations are welcome. deeperafrica.com, africanbushcamps.com, nick@bumihillsfoundation.org

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STAY TOGETHER Looking for a quick getaway with all your friends?

Meriton Suites is the perfect way to stay together.

Famous for our 2 and 3 bedroom suites, you and your friends can relax in affordable accommodation and enjoy some time-out from reality. All our suites are equipped with large living spaces to ensure all have the room for absolute comfort, while also featuring a well-appointed kitchen, individual bathrooms, and even a full laundry to ensure a seamless stay away.

Flick through a selection of Foxtel channels on the television, or kick-back and enjoy our complimentary high-speed and unlimited Wi-Fi right from the comfort of your own suite. If you prefer to stay active, you will enjoy our resort style leisure facilities found at every hotel.

So don’t squeeze into a small hotel room, or stress about booking multiple rooms to keep together stay with Meriton Suites, where there’s room for everyone.

To discover why we’re famous for larger accommodation options and exceptional value for money, please call our Australian based free-call hotline on 1800 214 822, or visit meritonsuites.com.au.

RENEW 138 SURF | PAPUA NEW GUINEA 142 WELLNESS | BEVERLY HILLS 144 HEALTH & WELLNESS NEWS & REVIEWS 148 RECIPE | GOLDEN DOOR HEALTH RETREAT

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NEW HANOVER ISLAND

KAVIENG

PAPUA NEW GUINEA PORT MORESBY

A L L I M AG E S I N T H I S S PR E A D : S T E V E A R K L AY

AUSTRALIA

SURFING’S

LAST FRONTIER 138 w w w . l u x u r y t r a v e l m e d i a . c o m . a u

RENEW SURF | PAPUA NEW GUINEA

THERE ARE STILL P E R F E C T, U N R I D D E N WAV E S O U T T H E R E , A S C R A I G TA N S L E Y DISCOVERS ON AN OFF THE GRID SURF T R I P TO PA P U A NEW GUINEA.

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n my first overseas surf charter, I took a yacht through Indonesia’s Mentawai Islands off the west coast of Sumatra. I wanted to find waves I couldn’t ride at home; the kind of waves I’d only ever seen in surf movies, the waves I drew on exercise books in high school maths class. But what I found was boat after boat of surfers with exactly the same desire, and many of them were willing to do more than I was to live out their fantasies.

And so at my first break – off a dreamy, coconut tree-clad headland – two Brazilians took it in turns to take over my perfect wave. It went downhill from there, with other wave-crazed surfers invading my space, at times narrowly avoiding collisions.

The trip made me question surfing in the modern world – the few great waves I caught were not enough to negate the nagging feeling that finding the perfect wave was simply a dream now. Even if there was such a thing as the “perfect wave” and I happened to find it, surely I’d be sharing it with hundreds of others.

And so I paddle into my first Papua New Guinea surfing line-up feeling both relief and excitement. There are no other surfers here, and the skipper of the surf charter boat I’m on says that in 13 years he has never seen another soul on these waves. He should know – his boat, PNG Explorer, has been the only surf charter vessel in the whole country.

I’ve flown to Kavieng in the country’s far northeast, via Port Moresby. From there, we steamed overnight westward along the New Ireland coastline to New Hanover Island. At dawn, I find myself in a pretty bay surrounded by islets and a lot of coconut trees. Villagers paddle past in wooden canoes, while children play in the water beside the boat. www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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If this was anywhere else on the planet, surfers would’ve descended on this paradise en masse...despite its proximity to Australia, PNG still manages to keep its secrets.

S T EV E A R K L AY

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ULT IM AT E 1 U1

PNG S UR FA R I S . COM

Papua New Guinea is surfing’s very last frontier. While territorial locals rule the waves of so many other surfing meccas, here in PNG, the only locals I share waves with are kids on old boards discarded by surfers on the PNG Explorer.

The boat’s owner and skipper Andrew Rigby stumbled upon these waves by chance. A mad surfer hailing from Victoria, he was in this part of PNG with his dad, catching lobsters for live trade, when he saw the potential of the breaks – some of the nicest waves on the planet, and no one on them. Despite his inexperience at anything remotely tourism-related, Rigby leased his dad’s lobster boat and started a surf charter business operating out of Kavieng.

Things were rough in the beginning. Even today, don’t go expecting the PNG Explorer to be the Queen Mary. There are no cold towels and welcome drinks, and no one makes your bed every day. But you can enjoy a cold beer on the deck (just mark it down next to your name on the tally sheet), there are good, frothy lattes whenever you want them, and there is lobster for every meal if you want it – when I’m on board, locals delivered more

S T EV E A R K L AY

than 100 kilos of the crustaceans to the boat.

The luxuries on this charter don’t come from the trimmings – they come from the exclusivity. There are no other surfers within 100 kilometres of us, and there’s no surf boat for at least 1,000 kilometres. The best waves PNG can deliver are all ours. That’s all the luxury you need right there.

On my first morning aboard PNG Explorer, I wake at dawn to survey conditions. There are only two of us on board the boat, getting ready to tackle a perfect gentle-breaking right-hand reef break. Endless waves peel off, and the only company I’ll have is an old bloke in a canoe which paddles past 100 metres further out to sea. While there are some dangerous breaks in this part of the world, the waves in PNG are not that powerful, and are generally less threatening than those to the east in Tahiti and Hawaii, and to the west in Indonesia. This – combined with the higher costs and hassles associated with getting here – stops the brigade of testosterone-charged surfers who frequent other camps around the world from descending in droves.

In the middle of the day I fish from the boat’s tender – a canopy blocking the equato-

NEW VESSEL PNG Surfaris has just launched a new 72 foot Tri-deck catamaran, Ultimate 1 (U1) that can host up to six guests on a luxury PNG surfing charter as far west as the Ninigo and Hermit islands and the Shortland islands to the south.

An upgrade from the PNG Explorer, the vessel offers air-conditioned twin share cabins, four spacious communal deck areas and a saloon with a big screen TV for post surf lounging. Rates start from A$6,590 per person for a 10-night charter. worldsurfaris.com

SURF THIS PNG Explorer offers 10-day surf charters including all meals, accommodation and transfers for A$4,490-A$4,990 per person, depending on the time of year.

Airfares are not included. pngsurfaris.com

rial noon sun – and watch marlin jump nearby while spinner dolphins ride the bow waves of the boat.

But it’s a surf in the late afternoon that I look forward to most. It’s when the water is dead still, once the afternoon trade wind dies down. As the sun sets I ride perfect head-high waves. Each time I kick off one, I feel like I’m riding in my own surf movie.

We motor back to the PNG Explorer in time for fresh sashimi on the back deck as the moon rises and the stars come out, dazzling in their brightness thanks to the fact that there’s not a single artificial light for 100 kilometres in any direction.

When the swell drops, we steam north to an island called Emirau. There’s no airport on the island and, except for the occasional visiting doctor sent to check up on the locals, villagers here won’t see any westerners other than those on this vessel. We pull in to a protected passage between tiny islands, anchoring in clear, blue water. A small community lives on the beach beside where we’ve anchored. Five kids paddle out to greet us. The smallest balances on the front of the canoe, watched over by his older siblings. Over the course of the surf trip we become firm friends, despite the language barrier. Some days we hand them fish we catch in exchange for coconuts they bring from the shore.

On our voyage back to Kavieng we stay close to the coast, giving me the opportunity to study the wild mountains, wondering what kinds of creatures call them home. There are no other boats around, nor are there any hotels. If this was anywhere else on the planet, surfers would’ve descended on this paradise en masse and opened scores of surf camps.

But despite its proximity to Australia, PNG still manages to keep its secrets.

While charter boats like the PNG Explorer continue to operate alone in a country teeming with unseen surf breaks, there will always be the perfect wave waiting for me, with not a single other person to spoil the ride.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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ALL'S WELL

IN BEVERLY HILLS 142

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C A R DIO B A R R E C L A S S AT PH Y S I Q UE 5 7

RENEW WELLNESS | BEVERLY HILLS

I N B E V E R LY H I L L S , T H E W E L L N E S S M O V E M E N T I S R E D E F I N I N G T H E M E A N I N G O F W E A LT H A N D S U C C E S S . S I O B H A N P L O W M A N E M B A R K S O N A L U X U R I O U S W E L L N E S S I T I N E R A R Y A N D L E A R N S H O W H E A LT H A N D H A P P I N E S S H A V E B E C O M E T H E N E W F I N A N C I A L C U R R E N C Y.

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he exclusive Los Angeles enclave of Beverly Hills has long been synonymous with a glamorous lifestyle, exorbitant mansions and star-studded streets. But times are changing, and the rich and famous are now moving toward a less materialistic and more valuable life currency: health.

The idea of success measured in terms of health and wellbeing is the driving force behind Beverly Hills’ latest campaign: WELLTH. With legendary supermodel Christie Brinkley as its ambassador, the program showcases the best in health, wellness and mindfulness that the city has to offer through a number of special packages at five-star hotels, restaurants and day spas citywide. You can sample a few on your own customised weekend of wellness.

Check in to the city’s most prestigious postcode, 90210, at the Montage Beverly Hills. Set in the heart of the famed Golden Triangle luxury shopping precinct, the hotel is home to one of the most indulgent spas in the city. Spanning almost 2,000 square metres, Spa Montage offers a huge range of health and wellness treatments including the Elements of Wellness Signature Experience: a personalised blend of aromatherapy, massage and reflexology. Following the treatment, relax in the opulent mineral pool or Turkish steam room. Or take a class, such as Mindful Morning Flow, Rest and Recharge Yoga or Body Sculpting. Book the hotel’s Relax and Revive package and you’ll get a US$100 daily credit to use at the spa.

Start your day with a signature cardio barre class at Physique 57, just up the road from the Montage. This exclusive fitness brand has studios in New York, the Hamptons, Dubai and Bangkok and a high-profile clientele. Although there’s little equipment used, barre workouts are surprisingly gruelling. Popular among celebrities and supermodels, classes draw from ballet, yoga and pilates, with high repetitions of small-range exercises that target specific muscle

groups, toning the body from head to toe. Physique 57’s ‘interval overload’ method claims to deliver results after only eight classes.

Cool down with a 10-minute walk to Matthew Kenney NM, a contemporary vegan café serving fresh, healthy fare. The café was developed in partnership with luxury retailer Neiman Marcus and opened late last year in their flagship store on Wilshire Boulevard. Kenney is a plant-based chef and wellness entrepreneur with a dining philosophy that focuses on clean, nutritious food. The menu is inspired by Southern Californian cuisine, offering dishes such as Tuscan kale Caesar salad and macaroni and cheese with a creamy cashew sauce. All dishes are designed to have a positive impact on sleep patterns and energy levels.

After the morning’s strenuous sweat session, you’ve earned another spa treatment. Head to

STAY Rates for a Superior King at the Montage Beverly Hills start from US$745 (about A$983) per night. montagehotels.com/beverlyhills

The Spa on Rodeo for a Dynamic Detox Cupping session, an ancient practice with its roots in Egypt, China and the Middle East. Cupping creates suction and lifts and stretches the muscle tissue, draining toxins and waste through the lymphatic system, and is believed to encourage blood flow and ease inflammation.

For a little sartorial indulgence, book in a visit to The House of Bijan, regarded as the most expensive store in the world. A shrine to the late Iranian-American menswear designer Bijan Pakzad, this store has had an appointment-only philosophy since it opened at 420 N Rodeo Drive in 1976; passersby may only peer in through the large (and spotless) windows.

Those lucky enough to step inside will join fellow clientele including Barack Obama, Giorgio Armani and Oscar de la Renta. Browse the selection of US$1,200 ties and US$25,000 suits, all the while surrounded by stylish attendants, and be sure to take in Bijan’s custom Bugatti Veyron parked out the front. This US$1.7 million car was parked on the street as a tribute to the late designer, and has become an attraction along Rodeo Drive just as much as the store itself.

For more information on WELLTH packages available in Beverly Hills, visit: lovebeverlyhills.com/wellth www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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HEALTH & WELLNESS NEWS

GET WELL ONLINE WITH GWINGANNA

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ueensland hinterland health retreat Gwinganna has released a new series of online seminars and information guides. The Wellness at Home package provides access to key wellness experts from the retreat in addition to special guest contributors such as preventative cardiologist Dr Jason Kaplan. Users will be able to access videos of popular classes, audio meditation sessions, and seminars and interviews on topics such as detox, sleep, nutrition and heart health. The six month package is priced at A$89.95 and is available for purchase from Gwinganna’s online store. gwinganna.com

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G

RUN MILAN WITH NIKE

uests at the Four Seasons Hotel Milano can now combine their daily workout with a sightseeing tour of the city led by a professional Nike coach. The run itinerary will be based on guests’ fitness levels and objectives, and will take in popular landmarks such as

the Milan Cathedral, Castello Sforzesco and some of the city’s gardens and green spaces. The session finishes back at the hotel, with a guided stretching session at the fitness centre.

Prices for a one-hour session start from €90 (about A$132). fourseasons.com/milan

AQUA EXPEDITIONS’ WELLNESS ITINERARY

iver cruise line Aqua Expeditions is partnering with fitness specialist Alex Salihin to launch an exclusive wellness itinerary. Salihin, ambassador for premium sportswear brand Lululemon and founder of LEVEL fitness, will host a range of health and wellness activities on the four-night cruise as it travels through

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Cambodia along the Mekong River.

Activities include morning yoga classes on the outdoor sundeck, meditation classes, one-on-one training sessions with Salihin, spa treatments, and daily biking and kayaking. Rates start from US$5,140 (about A$6,444) per person, twin share. aquaexpeditions.com

ALEX SALIHIN

PEAK PERFORMANCES T R A I N I N G FO R A T R E K? L AC H L A N G I L L E S P I E , D I R E C TO R O F H E I G H T O F F I T N E S S , TA L K S TO K AT I E M I LT O N A B O U T T H E B E N E F I T S O F H I G H - A LT I T U D E T R A I N I N G B E F O R E YO U G O.

GROW AND HEAL IN BHUTAN

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here better to nurture wellbeing and promote healing than in a country that measures its success in terms of Gross National Happiness? Amankora in Bhutan is offering guests a special program designed to release negative emotions and reduce stress. Tim Stoneman, a renowned energy healer and hypnotherapist, will run the Energetic Emotional Pain Release experience, helping guests to recover from past traumas and let go of negative attachments through focused meditation. Stoneman will also offer hypnotherapy sessions to allow guests to replace negative beliefs and habits with positive alternatives. While Stoneman specialises in helping patients reduce stress, improve sleep quality and increase overall happiness, the hypnotherapy sessions are also effective in treating addictions, phobias and depression.

The experience will be available from 16 October to 30 November 2017. Prices start from US$200 (about A$249) for a 60-minute session. aman.com/resorts/amankora

How does training at high altitudes prepare the body for treks?

Training at altitude (a hypoxic environment) is scientifically proven to trigger a range of physiological responses not achievable in normal training as the body is forced to adapt to cope with the reduction of oxygen. Your body adapts to working with less oxygen so when you do trek you will be fitter, stronger and better equipped to deal with the rigours of activity at altitude.

Altitude training can help reduce or buffer against the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and reduce the time you need to spend acclimatising.

What is involved in a high altitude training session?

A typical altitude session is 45 minutes to an hour long and generally involves high-intensity interval training [in a room with an atmosphere designed to mimic high altitudes]. We offer cycle, circuit and virtual classes and personal training options. Our facility is fitted with the latest multi-discipline equipment including Keiser Bikes, treadmills, rowers, free weights, a cable weight machine, a Johnny G Krankcycle, TRX suspension training, functional training equipment and a floor area.

How do you track the body’s progress during the session?

During a training session, the key metric to monitor progress is through intermittently measuring the amount of oxygen in your body using a pulse

oximeter. In order to stimulate the body to physiologically adapt and to reap the benefits of altitude training, your blood oxygen saturation levels need to be between 80 and 85 per cent (at sea level, oxygen saturation levels range from 96 to 100 per cent).

How long and often should people train in high altitude conditions before embarking on a trek?

Do at least two sessions a week for a minimum of six weeks to ensure physiological adaption to low oxygen conditions. I highly recommend 12 weeks – the more time you can spend adapting, the better.

Other tips for trekkers include: • Implement a combination of high-intensity interval training and functional or circuit training for your upper and lower body to ensure both mitochondrial and physical adaption • Increase your training intensity, number of sessions and length of sessions week by week, building your body’s anaerobic threshold. Not all sessions need to be long sessions • Trial various breathing techniques while using a pulse oximeter to understand how you can control and adapt your breathing to be more efficient at altitude.

• Program at least one session a week where you replicate hiking at altitude – walk in hiking gear plus your pack on high incline on the treadmill for at least an hour. altitudeaustralia.com.au www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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HEALTH & WELLNESS REVIEW

THE LOWDOWN ON FRACTIONAL MESOTHERAPY AT SKINSTITUT, SYDNEY Reviewed by: Kelly Jane Gabriel

What is it?

Designed to promote collagen production and improve the appearance and texture of your skin, Fractional Mesotherapy uses fine needles to pierce your skin down to the dermis, leaving the outer layer intact.

This is done with a wireless Tri-M microneedling device, which looks like a large pen with fine stainless-steel needles that quickly move in and out of your skin. The length of the needle can be adjusted from 0.1mm to 2mm, depending on the area of the face being treated. It stimulates your body’s wound healing response, prompting it to produce new collagen.

How long does it take?

About 25 minutes. Throughout the treatment, my therapist Roxanne talks to me about my skin and how it is reacting.

She has been in the skincare business for more than 20 years and is extremely knowledgeable. When the needling is finished, Roxanne applies a nutrient-rich serum to soak into the micro-channels created by the needles. I am given a follow up kit to help boost the results – the moisturiser with SPF50 is especially nice.

I also take home a DNC homecare roller, a small version of the equipment Roxanne used with much shorter needles, that will ensure my daily facial serum penetrates as deeply as possible.

Does it hurt?

Roxanne offers me a topical numbing cream before my treatment, but admits she never needs it when she has it done (it’s her favourite treatment), so I opt to go without as well. It honestly doesn’t hurt, and I would almost go as far as to say it’s a bit relaxing and strangely meditative. It feels a bit like a large cat’s tongue licking you. The only time it was slightly uncomfortable was on my forehead, because it’s an area with very little padding.

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How do I look?

My face is pink after the treatment and it looks like I have a mild sunburn, but I’m fine to go straight back to work. It’s also a bit puffy, but this actually looks okay as it removes the fine lines and gives me a youthful glow. The next day I notice two areas that feel a bit dry, almost like a thin scab. These were problem areas that had deeper lines, so Roxanne spent more time concentrating on them. They take another day for the skin to flake off.

I should say that my skin is pretty tough and doesn’t react easily, so if your skin is on the sensitive side you may notice more of a reaction.

Does it work?

I’m told for best results you need four to eight treatments, at six to eight week intervals, but I notice small changes immediately after my first treatment. I expected my lip lines to come straight back after the swelling went down, but happily they were still less apparent. My pores also looked smaller. My hyperpigmentation from the sun (after nine seasons of surf lifesaving) sadly remains the same and I suspect I will need something a bit stronger, or perhaps several needling treatments, to take care of that. My skin will continue to create new collagen slowly over the next few months, which sounds great to me. Considering this is a chemical free treatment that uses your body’s own ability to repair, I give it top marks and would definitely do it again.

TRY IT A single treatment costs from A$299. Discounts are available for multiple treatments. Find your closest treatment centre at skinstitut.com

BEAUTY TIPS FOR FREQUENT TRAVELLERS N E W YO R K- B A S E D B E A U T Y E X P E RT V I CTO R I A A L L E N L E T S U S I N O N T H R E E WAY S T O K E E P Y O U R S K I N AT I T S B E S T W H I L E O N T H E R O A D.

FOUR SIGMATIC MUSHROOMS These mushroom elixirs are ideal both pre- and post-flight, or when you’re just in need of an extra boost in your day. Four Sigmatic blends powerful reishi, cordyceps and chaga with cacao and instant coffee, and makes consumption extra-easy for on the go – just stir a sachet into hot water and enjoy. Take the reishi and cacao blend pre-flight to mellow out, and take the cordyceps and chaga coffee blend once you land to energise and protect your immune system. A$20 for 10 sachets. optimoz.com.au

URBAN MOONSHINE DIGESTIVE BITTERS Bitters are a powerhouse when it comes to digestion. As soon as they hit your tongue, they encourage your body to produce its own enzymes and bile to prevent the bloating, heartburn and upset stomachs that can come with eating an indulgent or inflammatory meal. Take a full dropper of bitters before or after you eat to help curb sugar cravings and stimulate your digestive system. They also come in a sprayable travel size, perfect for tucking into your hand luggage. About A$20 per bottle. urbanmoonshine.com

UMA ULTIMATE BRIGHTENING FACE OIL For decades, Uma has been harnessing the power of organic flowers and herbs from their family-owned farm in India, combining the ingredients with Ayurvedic philosophies to formulate luxurious , highly effective facial oils. The Brightening Oil is a potent blend of rose oil, frankincense and sandalwood to help illuminate and enliven tired skin, while the gorgeous bouquet of essential oils and tastefully decorated bottle creates an indulgent, multi-sensory experience. US$150 (about A$189) for 30ml. umaoils.com

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RENEW RECIPE | GOLDEN DOOR

AS GOOD AS GOLDEN GOLDEN DOOR H E A LT H R E T R E AT IN THE HUNTER VA L L E Y H A S A HOLISTIC APPROACH TO H E A L I N G, A N D NOURISHING FOOD P L AY S A L A R G E R O L E IN THEIR WELLNESS P H I L O S O P H Y. G R A C E S M I T H S P E A KS TO T H E C O M PA N Y ’ S EXECUTIVE CHEF JAMES KNIGHT ABOUT THE ROLE C L E A N E AT I N G P L A Y S I N T H E E Q U AT I O N .

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ith experience working with leading hospitality and entertainment brand Urban Purveyor Group and, more recently, Accor Hotels, James Knight moved to the Hunter Valley in 2016 to take up the position of executive chef at Golden Door Health Retreat & Spa, Elysia. His mission? To make the resort’s cuisine just as delicious as it is nutritious.

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Grace Smith: How would you describe the Golden Door food philosophy?

James Knight: Balanced! It’s really about getting back to basics: eating real food like seasonal fruits and vegetables, whole grains, legumes and healthy fats. Our meat and seafood is sourced ethically and produced sustainably. We live in an age of excess, so it can be easy to fall into unhealthy eating habits.

Our mission is to get people back into their kitchens at home preparing nourishing meals.

GS: What factors do you take into consideration when planning a new dish?

JK: Seasonality dictates the first stages; we then look at balance of nutrients across the dish and where in our menu it will be served. We have a set meal plan for the week, so we need to think about when we will serve it to ensure we keep a balanced menu for our guests. And lastly, presentation is really important to me – my training in fine dining still has me obsessing over the final look of a dish because health-inspired cooking should look amazing.

GS: Do you have any tips for making healthy meals at home?

JK: Firstly, don’t overthink it. Make realistic changes to your diet and don’t get caught up in all the hype around fad diets. Stock your fridge with good quality produce, and stay away from processed foods devoid of nutrients. A good way to get started with making changes to your diet and focussing on nutrition is to make Buddha bowls at home: build your veggie bowl up one ingredient at a time, considering each item and thinking about the balance of macronutrients. It’s a great stepping-stone to creating nourishing meals at home.

GS: What are the nutritional benefits of the poached salmon with fennel?

JK: This recipe is fantastic for lunch or dinner.

Poaching the fish makes it a really light and fresh dish. Salmon has a well-earned reputation for being a superfood of the sea; it’s really no surprise with its omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins B and D, and many mineral benefits. Our guests know that fennel is one of my all-time favourite vegetables. To me, all wholefoods are superfoods, but fennel really is something special. It’s often overlooked, but it’s a great source of potassium, folate and dietary fibre.

JA M E S K N IGH T

POACHED SALMON WITH FENNEL, ORANGE, TOASTED ALMONDS AND CHILLI CITRUS SALSA SERVES 6 THE INGREDIENTS • 6 x 140g pieces skinless salmon • Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon • Pinch of sea salt • 12 pitted green olives, sliced • 1 orange, skin and pith sliced off, flesh diced • 1 fennel bulb, sliced finely, fronds included • A handful of mixed basil and parsley leaves, finely chopped (reserve a few for garnish) • ¼ cup toasted slivered almonds • 1 green chilli, deseeded and finely sliced • Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime

• 1 tsp white wine vinegar • 1 tsp coconut nectar TO SERVE

Seasonal vegetables and crisp green salad

METHOD: 1. Preheat the oven to 180oC and line a baking tray with baking paper.

2. Place the pieces of salmon on the lined tray, sprinkle with lemon zest and juice and a pinch of sea salt. Cover with baking paper and ‘poach’ in the oven for approximately 15 minutes until the fish is just cooked through. Do not overcook or the fish will be dry.

3. Place the olives, orange, fennel, herbs, almonds, chilli and lime zest into a bowl, and combine to create a salsa. In a jug, combine the lime juice, vinegar and coconut nectar.

Pour lime and vinegar mixture into the salsa and season with salt.

4. Once the salmon is cooked, place salsa on top of fish and serve with seasonal vegetables and salad.

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STAY 154 MAR ADENTRO | MEXICO 158 GRAN HOTEL MANZANA KEMPINSKI LA HABANA | CUBA 162 PAPERBARK CAMP | JERVIS BAY 166 ROYAL DAVUI | FIJI 168 VIRGIN LIMITED EDITION 173 SUITE LIFE

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ffectionately known as Cabo by its A-list clientele, the Los Cabos coastline is a notorious party hotspot bound by white sand beaches and sparkling blue waters set at the edge of a vast desert and craggy mountain ranges. Occupying the southern tip of Mexico’s Baja California Peninsula, the region is made up of two coastal towns: Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, linked together by a 32-kilometre tourist corridor – a string of luxury resorts and world-class golf courses dotting the coastline.

Renowned as the sophisticated sister to the raging Cabo San Lucas, San José del Cabo, once a quiet Spanish colonial village, has been transformed into a refined resort city, now occupied by fine dining restaurants, high-end galleries and stylish boutiques. It is here, on the outer rim of the Baja Peninsula, that luxury travellers will find Mar Adentro.

STAY

MAR ADENTRO MEXICO

MINIMALISM IN MEXICO

A N U LT R A M O D E R N M A S T E R P I E C E O N MEXICO’S BAJA PENINSULA, MAR ADENTRO UNITES THE BEST OF CABO WITH MINIMALIST D E S I G N S . K AT I E M I LT O N C H E C K S I N .

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There are no signs indicating the road toward this five-star resort, appearing from the outside as nothing more than minimalist white walls with small rectangular openings. Beyond the simple exterior, however, is an entirely different reality. Imagined by architect Miguel Angel Aragonés to mimic the endlessness of the horizon, its design favours the element of water, the structure intended to give the impression that it is floating.

Each of the 189 rooms and nine villas provide guests with ocean views – the suites are suspended boxes finished with white tones, floor to ceiling glass windows, clean lines and the most contemporary in-room technology. From the exterior, the sleek minimalist buildings are surrounded by reflective pools bordered by dark stone pathways that lead to the resort’s central body of water. The water is drawn from the sea, desalinated, purified and distributed throughout the resort; the prop-

M A I N P O OL AT S UN S E T

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COR N E R V I E W S U I T E

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NI D O

erty itself a sustainable water project.

In the centre of Mar Adentro sits the main restaurant, Nido, an oval-shaped bird’s-nestlike structure that has been crafted from twigs by local craftsmen. Inside, a mix of traditional Mexican and international cuisine is served at a communal table twice a day; chilaquiles (corn tortillas topped with salsa) and huevos rancheros (Mexican-style fried eggs) for breakfast, and seasonal ceviche and seafood for lunch.

Dinner can be taken in Origen, a white, openwalled restaurant that looks directly out onto the Sea of Cortez, the source of the restaurant’s fresh seafood offerings.

The water feeds into Mar Adentro’s wellness concept, one that is realised in the multisensory spa. A 608-square metre indoor space, the spa is filled with aromatherapy scents and special compilations from contemporary composers such a John Luther Adams and Johan Johansson alongside classical composers like Bach and Vivaldi. A yoga-training program is also offered to guests at various venues throughout the resort.

By nightfall, Mar Adentro is illuminated in a spectrum of hues, the colours controlled by the individual room lighting in each of the guest suites.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

STAY Rates start from US$236 (about A$298) per night for an Ocean View Room. maradentrocabos.com

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CUBA'S

NEW CALLING

STAY KEMPINSKI CUBA

KEVIN PILLEY CHECKS I N T O C U B A’ S F I R S T T R U E F I V E - S TA R H O T E L , W H E R E H I S TO R I C H AVA N A G E TS A TO U C H O F T H E HIGH LIFE.

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he $495 per bottle Krug circulated – the Torettos were back in town, and The Fate Of The Furious was monopolising the Bella Habana rooftop bar and infinity pool.

Vin Diesel was nowhere in sight but Tyrese Gibson (Roman) was puffing a fat, hand-rolled Cohiba, taking in views of the El Capitolio and Vieja (Old) Havana. And posing for paparazzi.

Universal Pictures chose Cuba’s new Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski La Habana for the DVD launch of the eighth film in the Furious franchise. I crashed the party, accidentally, and got a taste of modern Cuban high life.

“They brought in US cars for the first time in 60 years,” the hotel’s concierge told me, referring to the filming that took place here. “The movie’s like West Side Story. But with cars. It’s made a billion dollars.”

The hotel, in a converted shopping arcade, proclaims itself as Cuba’s “first true luxury hotel”, offering “re-defined luxury hospitality”.

Indeed, it was a relief not to be handed a warm glass of pseudo-Prosecco or be issued with a colour-coded wristband to signify what had been pre-paid and what meal plan I was on. The Kempinski’s 246-room (50 of them suites) hotel is not all-inclusive, unlike most of the major resorts around the country. And that’s what makes it so exclusive.

The interiors of the historic building, built between 1894 and 1917, are South African. Arno Joubert of Archipolitan succeeds in creating those rare and prized commodities in a Cuban hotel – space and light – through white walls, louvered wooden French shutters, glass, stylish mirroring, marbling, high ceilings, original Spanish tiles, tropical decor and low occupancy.

The hotel is determinedly cosmopolitan. The complimentary bedroom coffee is Italian, the

PR E SIDE N T I A L S UI T E

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HO T E L EXT E R IOR AT S UN S E T

chinaware Luxembourgian. The executive chef is Spanish, from Rioja. Chef Angel Gonzalez’s sixth floor, ridiculously panoramic San Cristobal Restaurant is fragrant with flamingo flowers and heliconia (lobster claw) plants. On the back of the chairs is embossed the world’s smallest hummingbird: the zunzuncito, found only on the Isla de la Juventud (Isle of Youth), where the Castro brothers were imprisoned.

What El Commandante would have made of five-star, 2017 Cuba is hard to guess. Fidel would’ve liked the small museum with the 16th century city wall and photos by Claudia Corrales, granddaughter of one of his official chroniclers.

But he probably would’ve frowned at the American pancakes with maple syrup for breakfast, and the degustation of burgers in the Confluencias international snack bar. He would have approved of the lobsters and pulled-pork sandwiches with boniato (sweet potato) chips. But

may have struggled – ideologically – with the excellent beef tartare with truffled egg.

Cuba used to have three problems: breakfast, lunch and dinner. Kempinski’s latest opening is spearheading a gastro revolution. The food is better than elsewhere, although dearer. The views are what you remember, and the smiley waiters.

The hotel has a gym and Spa Albear by Resense. A 90-minute massage costs US$145 (about A$186). El Barbudos (the Bearded One) would have refused the targeted and lavish facials.

“It’s a privilege to work here,” a doorman told me. But I felt there was a subtext: “Now privilege has been reinstated. And permitted. Now that vintage Cuban luxury is getting a bit grubby.”

The bedrooms are soundproofed and you can make your electronic windows go opaque, shutting out the blare of how “fast and furious” Havana has suddenly become. Cuba may have received Hollywood’s endorsement. But at what price?

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Dining at San Cristobal Restaurant at sunset; the view from Bella Habana Pool; living area in Suite Esquina; Constante Bar; striking interiors in Confluencias Restaurant; splashes of fuschia in Junior Suite Constante.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

STAY Rates for a Patio Room start from US$396 (about A$506) per night including daily buffet breakfast. kempinski.com

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PITCH

PERFECT

DE L UXE T E N T B AT H R O OM

STAY

PAPERBARK CAMP JERVIS BAY

I

G R A C E S M I T H B R AV E S T H E W I N T E R C H I L L F O R A W E E K E N D G L A M P I N G G E TA W A Y AT P A P E R B A R K C A M P I N J E R V I S B A Y.

t’s 7am and I have just watched the sun rise over the water from the seat of my kayak. The early morning light filters through the trees and reflects off the water’s smooth surface, creating a perfect mirror image of the surrounding forest.

In the distance I hear the warble of a magpie, the creak of a branch, before silence settles over the air once again. I stop paddling and let my kayak glide with the current, basking in the stillness of the morning. It is hard to believe that less than 12 hours ago I was battling through Sydney’s Friday night rush hour, amid blaring horns, gridlock traffic and the acrid smell of burning rubber.

It’s the first week of winter and I am glamping at Paperbark Camp in Jervis Bay, a two and a half hour drive south of Sydney. The camp’s 100 acres of bushland is within easy reach of three national parks, with the sleepy beach town of Huskisson just around the corner and a private creek a moment’s walk away.

Feeling the brisk morning air, I follow the winding bush track back to my accommodation

DE LUXE T E N T

for the night. My Deluxe Safari Tent sits on a raised polished-timber deck; inside is a kingsized bed, a small tea trolley and private openair ensuite bathroom, complete with freestanding bath, separate shower and flushing toilet. I contemplate the shower for a moment, admiring the view of the native flora, before conceding that I am not yet brave enough to remove my many layers of clothing in the bracing cold of the bathroom – or in the main tent, for that matter. The lack of electricity and the tent’s canvas walls mean that the winter chill is just as present inside the tent as it is outside. Thinking of the fireplace and breakfast buffet waiting in the main building, I forgo the shower and head out of my tent, closing it securely to keep the possums out.

The communal space of the Gunyah (an aboriginal word meaning ‘place of shelter’) provides a welcome retreat from the elements, with a roaring open fire, a 24-hour tea station and a selection of board games on offer. The walls are panelled with raw wood and decorated with www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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sketches of local wildlife, while tall windows reveal the soaring eucalypt and paperbark trees outside.

Perhaps it’s the cool weather, or the communal spirit of camping, but during my stay the lounges around the fireplace become a social hub, with guests swapping stories, playing games and recounting the day’s discoveries with one another. Although the Gunyah is the only place in the camp with WiFi and electricity, I rarely see anybody on their phone during my stay. In fact, the electronic devices sit idly at the charging station, metres away from their owners, removing the temptation to scroll though social media feeds or check work emails.

The Gunyah Restaurant serves hearty, well executed dishes featuring fresh local produce, some of which is sourced from the camp’s own gardens. On my first morning I devour a coconut-chia pudding, a fruit salad and

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Above from left: View from the Deluxe Tent; the Gunyah Restaurant.

a plate of mixed mushrooms and eggs drizzled with blue cheese sauce (necessary fuel for a long day of biking and hiking through the national park). The seasonal dinner menu has just three choices for each course and although I initially plan to sample the majority of these during my two-night stay, the baked lamb rump and the poached pear with salted caramel cream are so good I order them two nights in a row.

PAPERBARK CAMP Paperbark Camp is around 200 kilometres, or a two and a half hour drive, south of Sydney. Rates in a Deluxe Safari Tent start from A$520 per night twin share, including breakfast. The Taste of Jervis Weekend package includes two nights’ accommodation and daily breakfast and dinner at Gunyah Restaurant. Rates for a Deluxe Safari tent start from A$1,320. paperbarkcamp.com.au

After dinner each night, I fill up a hot water bottle, make a cup of tea and head to the outdoor fire pit to prepare myself for the cold of my tent. I find out what my fellow campers are up to the following day: some plan to take it easy with a massage in their tent and a picnic lunch on the beach, while others have packed schedules including a whale watching cruise in the morning before a hike through one of the national parks. Personally, I savour the luxury of having no plans at all, knowing that I will wake up with nature at my doorstep and a full day stretching out ahead of me.

When my head finally hits the pillow I fall asleep instantly, my hair smoky from the fire, my muscles tired from the day’s exertions and no sound except the gentle rusting of the paperbarks outside.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

11 Nanuku Drive Pacific Harbour Fiji Islands

AUSTRALIA 1.800.791501 NEW ZEALAND 800.480248 FIJI 679.345.2100 USA 855.857.3882

nanuku.aubergeresorts.com

STAY

ROYAL DAVUI FIJI

A ROYAL

POSTCARD R OYA L DAV UI I SL A ND R E S OR T

I

I T T U R N S O U T T H AT THERE IS SUCH A THING A S A R E M A R K A B L E D A Y, AS RICHARD BUNTING D I S C O V E R S AT A B L I S S F U L F I J I A N I S L A N D R E S O R T.

f 24 hours constitutes a day, and most of them pass by each of us largely unremarked, what would a remarkable day look like?

Aboard the Royal Davui Island Resort shuttle boat – which skips across the lagoon from Fiji’s Pacific Harbour in the south of Viti Levu to the adults-only resort that will be my sanctuary for the next 24 hours – I pondered that very question. After 45 relaxing minutes in transit to the island, I had arrived at my reality.

Everything bodes well for a remarkable day, from the traditional Fijian welcome from the resort team – a glorious chorus of voices serenading new arrivals with ‘bula maleya’ – to the friendly and impressively smooth check-in.

My Sunset Pool Suite was located on the leeward side of the island and instantly revealed its cachet – sublime views over the lagoon and beyond to the South Pacific Ocean, and a private deck and plunge pool.

Sunlit and luxuriously casual in its décor, as befits a Fiji island resort, the

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I SL A ND PO OL V IL L A

suite’s profound sense of serenity was immediate. The living room was ideal for relaxing and reading and, to my delight, not only came with a comfy lounge but also freshly baked banana bread.

The ample bedroom housed a king size bed and, across its top cover, was an artistically displayed message: Welcome Home. After performing my perfunctory ‘jump test’ on the mattress, I was assured of a good night’s sleep. The luxurious ensuite bathroom was elevated to capture views of the stunning lagoon outside, and the bedroom opened onto the private sun deck. The inviting plunge pool was impossible to resist, and the perfect way to refresh on a balmy day.

In the afternoon I ventured to the Davui Spa, where a nourishing and hydrating massage was complemented by an ocean vista across to Beqa Island, home to many of the resort’s staff. I ambled back to my villa imbued with a deep feeling of peacefulness, and it occurred to me that I had very quickly slipped into fabulous ‘Fiji time’, without once thinking of checking emails or my phone.

As the last remnants of daylight disappeared with a spectacular sunset, I returned to the spa to attend the weekly general manager’s drinks session. Each Saturday night, a different resort location is selected as the setting for this friendly social ritual to which all guests are invited. Drinks are followed by a further invitation to join the Davui team in the restaurant and bar for an entertaining educational discussion before dinner.

Having enjoyed my lunch, I was looking forward to dinner and was wowed by the fine dining on offer. Royal Davui places great importance on the guest dining experience, and the menu has been created to cater for a wide variety of tastes. In addition to the dazzling food, the wine list was extensive, with a cellar stocked with a great selection of drops from New Zealand, Australia and Europe.

The sun was up before me the following morning – a great night’s sleep and complete relaxation do not prompt any haste on my part. A breakfast of champions – pancakes followed by bacon and eggs – sets me up for the day, but also heralds my all-too-soon departure from this beautiful island resort.

After one remarkable day I am left craving more. It seems that 24 hours is not enough to spend on Fiji time.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

STAY Rates start from FJ$3,075 (about A$1,937) per night for a Sunset Pool Suite including all meals. royaldavuifiji.com

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THE BILLIONAIRE'S

PLAYGROUND STAY

VIRGIN LIMITED EDITION WORLDWIDE

N EC K E R I S L A N D, B R I T I S H V I RG I N I S L A N D S The most famous retreat in the Virgin portfolio, Necker Island is an integral part of the Branson legend. He bought the island in the late 1970s to impress a girl – it worked, and they married there 11 years later. This Caribbean paradise is generally only available for exclusive use, though individual rooms can be booked during dedicated ‘Celebration Weeks’ throughout the year. It sleeps 34 guests across the nine-bedroom Great House as well as a series of one-bedroom Balinese villas dotted around the island. There’s plenty of fun to be had on Necker, with themed parties, a booze cruise around the islands, and a beach Olympics tournament comprising ‘sports’ such as sumo wrestling, kayak races while blindfolded and champagne diving (where bottles of bubbly are hidden in the main pool). More than 100 staff are on hand to cater to guests’ every whim and the US$80,000 (about A$103,352) per night tariff includes all meals, alcohol, transfers and watersports.

N EC K E R B E L L E , B R I T I S H V I RG I N I S L A N D S The 32-metre catamaran Necker Belle acts as the mobile version of Necker Island. Comfortably accommodating 12 people, the luxury yacht follows tailored itineraries across the Caribbean, dropping anchor at locations such as Peter Island and Anegada.

The light, airy interiors are reminiscent of a private beach house and all living areas are above the waterline for uninterrupted views. Guests spend their days sunbathing on secluded beaches, diving shipwrecks and hiking through coconut plantations, before heading to St Barts to party into the early hours of the morning. Spend seven days at sea for US$80,000 (about A$103,173) or take a day trip for US$12,500 (about A$16,127).

F R O M A P R I VAT E I S L A N D I N T H E C A R I B B E A N TO A M AG I C A L M O R O C C A N KASBAH AND A STYLISH SWISS SKI C H A L E T, S I R R I C H A R D B R A N S O N H A S A N I M P R E S S I V E E Y E F O R L U X U R Y. TA K E A G R A N D T O U R O F H I S V I R G I N LIMITED EDITION PROPERTIES WITH S I O B H A N P LOW M A N .

necker island necker belle

british virgin islands

NE CK E R I SL A ND

T HE L ODG E

T H E RO O F GA R D E N S, U K Tucked away high above the prestigious London suburb of Kensington, the Roof Gardens first opened to the public in 1938. Covering 6,000-square-metres, the garden is divided into three separate areas: a Spanish garden modelled on those at Spain’s Alhambra; an English Woodland garden; and a Tudor walkway with red-brick walls and archways. Resident flamingos wander freely amongst the bridges and ponds.

Branson has run private parties up here since the 1980s (including the annual star-studded pre-Wimbledon bash) and there’s now a modern British restaurant, Babylon, and a glamorous nightclub simply called The Club.

THE ROOF GARDENS

EUROPE

THE LODGE

T H E LO D G E , SW I T Z E R L A N D A classic luxury ski chalet, The Lodge is perched at an altitude of 1,500 metres in the Swiss Alps, just five minutes from the resort of Verbier. During winter, it’s only available for exclusive use and can sleep 18 adults across nine suites with exposed reclaimed wooden beams, plush cream carpets and sleek contemporary furniture. Kids can crash in the six-bed bunkroom, complete with plasma screen TV, games console and beanbags. After a day on the slopes, guests can relax in the indoor heated pool, indoor and outdoor jacuzzis, steam room and spa. Meals come courtesy of Michelin-star trained chefs. In summer, rooms can be rented individually and the mountains offer great hiking, biking and rock climbing. An all-inclusive, one-week stay for 18 guests during peak ski season is priced from CHF86,625 (about A$115,446).

SON BUNYOLA

KASBAH TAMADOT

MOROCCO

KENYA MAHALI MZURI

SOUTH AFRICA

ULUSABA

MONT ROCHELLE

S O N BU N YO L A , M A L LO RCA This picturesque 680-acre estate on the Spanish island of Mallorca is the newest member of the Virgin portfolio. It launched in 2016 with just three traditional villas, each set in their own secluded area of the estate. The property is part of a World Heritage Site and sits on the island’s mountainous northwestern coast with stunning terraces rolling down to the Mediterranean, olive and almond trees, and quiet pebbly beaches. At the heart of Son Bunyola is an impressive historic manor house, or finca, which dates back to the 13th century and is left unused as a dramatic centrepiece to the property. Villas are priced from €18,765-€31,275 (about A$27,608-A$46,014) per week in high season. www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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R O CK L OD G E , UL U S A B A

“

“

With around 33,000 acres of private land to explore, guests can head out in a jeep, on foot or in a helicopter for a one-of-akind aerial safari.

K A SB AH TA M A D O T

U LU S A B A , S O U T H A F R I CA

M A H A L I M Z U R I , K E N YA

Branson’s original safari lodge, Ulusaba, is set within the borders of South Africa’s Sabi Sand Reserve on the edge of Kruger National Park. The retreat is comprised of two separate lodges with a total of 21 rooms and suites. The hilltop Rock Lodge is made up of a network of tribal huts and viewing decks overlooking the surrounding plains. Down on the savannah, Safari Lodge sits on the edge of a dry riverbed with treehouse-style rooms connected by swinging wooden bridges. With around 33,000 acres of private land to explore, guests can head out in a jeep, on foot or in a helicopter for a one-of-a-kind aerial safari. Rooms are priced from ZAR10,800 (about A$1,054) per night.

This luxury safari camp opened in 2013 with 12 breezy tented suites in the private Olare Motorogi Conservancy, part of the legendary Masaai Mara. The striking, contemporary tents are luxuriously appointed; expect wooden floors, ensuite bathrooms, separate living areas and an open front deck with magnificent views of the surrounding plains. The Main Tent is the hub of the camp, with a spa, lounge, library and 12-metre infinity pool. Mahali Mzuri has a front row seat for the great migration from July to September, when two million wildebeest make their way through the park in search of fresh grasslands in Tanzania. Rates start from US$830 (about A$1,070) per person per night.

K A S B A H TA M A D OT, M O RO CCO

M O N T RO C H E L L E , S O U T H A F R I CA

Meaning ‘soft breeze’, Kasbah Tamadot is a magical oasis in the foothills of Morocco’s Atlas Mountains, overlooking the Asni Valley. There are 18 brightly coloured bedrooms, stuffed with furniture and art collected by the previous owner, interior designer and antiques dealer Luciano Tempo. Ten spacious Berber tents are set around the grounds, each with a king-sized bed, rolltop bath and sprawling mountain-view terrace – some also come with private sunken jacuzzis. There’s a real focus on community development with charitable programs and free English classes on offer, and the majority of the staff are local residents. Stay in the main house from MAD6,350 (about A$848) per night or in one of the tents from MAD10,700 (about A$1,430) per night.

This 96-acre vineyard estate is in the heart of the Western Cape wine region, close to the town of Franschhoek and just under an hour from Cape Town. It joined the Virgin group in 2014 after an extensive refurbishment, and now offers a 26-room hotel, private four-bedroom villa, two restaurants, Mediterraneanstyle heated outdoor pool and a Turkish hammam. Guests can have a private picnic among the vines, taste their way through the extensive wine cellar, tee off at the nation’s best golf courses (many of which are less than half an hour away), or cycle between the region’s picturesque cellar doors. Rooms start from ZAR6,600 (about A$645) per night.

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HURAWALHI - CAPTURING THE SOUL OF THE MALDIVES A 5-Star, adults only island boasting a breath-taking undersea restaurant, a beautiful beach and some of the best snorkeling and diving in the Maldives. This island paradise is the best choice for an unforgettable holiday, a romantic honeymoon or even the best setting for your wedding.

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F I V E - S TA R L U X U R Y H O T E L S AND SUITES AROUND THE WORLD

SU TE LIFE THE STAR

GOES GLAM

B

P I C T U R E A S O U N D P R O O F P R I V AT E R O O M , A B O T T L E O F M O Ë T C O O L I N G I N A N I C E B U C K E T, A C O N C I E R G E O N C A L L , AND DISCO HITS BLASTING THROUGH THE SOUND SYSTEM A N D Y O U ’ R E C L O S E T O T H E I N T E R I O R S O F T H E S TA R SY D N E Y ’ S N E W S E V E N T I E S -T H E M E D S U I T E .

randed by a gold plaque that reads ‘70s glam’, the room hides behind a set of black double doors adorned with crystal doorknobs. Inside, a circular red sofa sits in the centre of the room and cherry neon lips brighten the far wall. A pair of fishnet-clad female legs hold up the kitchen counter, and below the spinning disco ball is a swinging lounge bed suspended from the ceiling by thick rope (champagne holder in the

centre, of course). Behind the gold shimmering curtain is a booth-style karaoke lounge hooked up to Spotify, while in the bedroom a wall of hanging gold beads surrounds a sunken circular bed. There’s no way of knowing what time of day it is outside, the suite enclosing you and your party in your own self-contained Studio 54 fantasy.

Alongside two other themed suites – the Cyberpunk-inspired virtual reality gaming room, and the gothic Dark Romance Studio

with a signature canopy bed and outdoor balcony – just launched by The Star Sydney in the Astral Residences, the suite has been designed for private parties of up to 25 people.

KATIE MILTON

STAY Rates for the 70s Glam Studio start from A$1,500 per night. star.com.au

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SUITE LIFE

THE LOWELL NEW YORK CITY

CENTRAL PARK

THE LOWELL

Price: Suites from US$855 (A$1,080) per night / Reviewed by: Gary Allen CENTRAL PARK ZOO

TIMES SQUARE

UPPER EAST SIDE

LEXINGTON AVE SUBWAY

THE CHECKLIST Free WiFi 24-hour room service Complimentary newspapers Turndown service, twice daily Valet (US$58/A$73 per night) Packing/unpacking service

M A N H AT TA N S U I T E

HOTEL Originally built as a luxury apartment hotel in the 1920s, The Lowell has a long history as one of New York’s most exclusive residential-style properties. A member of Leading Hotels of the World, the property is privately owned by the Chartouni family, and perhaps for this reason retains a familiar, homey ambiance that is popular among its high-profile clientele (I saw two notable actors during my stay).

The hotel recently underwent a US$25 million (about A$32

million) renovation helmed by London-based architect Mark Pinney – who is known for his work on Apple, Armani and Burberry stores – and designer Michael S Smith, renowned for his work at the White House. The makeover saw the lobby revamped, restaurant Majorelle added and a new retractable roof placed over the adjacent terrace, filled with exotic plants and water fountains.

LOCALE The Lowell is set between Park and Madison avenues on 63rd Street,

UPGRADE Designed by Michael S Smith, the 17th floor Penthouse apartment occupies 279 square metres, and offers three bedrooms and four landscaped terraces.

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in a mostly residential Upper East Side neighbourhood. Just a block away from Central Park and a short stroll to Museum of Modern Art, it’s close to everything yet still removed from the crowded sidewalks and chaos of this busy city.

LOOK & FEEL Picture a beautiful, historic (circa 1927) brownstone on a leafy street in New York City and you’re close to what The Lowell offers today.

Once you pass through the art deco, flamingo-pink façade it feels as though you’ve stepped back in time, to when Manhattan was classic both in décor and personal service. Offering just 47 suites and 27 deluxe rooms, the hotel feels intimate and homey – a vibe that is echoed in the large Club Room, a

Laundry, dry cleaning and pressing service

sophisticated hideaway with comfortable wingback chairs and an open fire in winter.

EAT IN Breakfast in the Pembroke Room is as elegant as the hotel. Reinforced by the à la carte menu with everything cooked to order, it’s the kind of place that makes you want to relax and take your time.

The property’s new culinary addition is the ultra-exclusive Majorelle, under the direction of restaurateur Charles Masson.

The restaurant’s décor is sophisticated, and the space is filled with light from the new garden area as well as plants and bouquets of flowers. Chefs Mario Fortuna and David Brower’s menu is focused on classically French flavours with

During Madonna’s extended stay at The Lowell, the team converted a suite into a private gym for her. This suite is now The Manhattan Suite and can be booked by guests.

G A R DE N S UI T E T E R R AC E

Mediterranean influences from the Riviera to Morocco – it’s considered cuisine served in a beautiful setting.

PE N T HOU SE M A S T E R BE DR O OM

TREAT YOURSELF The hotel has an adequately sized gym outfitted with state-of-the-art equipment. While there is no spa, the concierge can book an appointment for you outside of the hotel or treatments can be arranged in the privacy of your room.

SPECIAL TOUCHES Having a wood-burning fireplace in your bedroom in New York is a rarity. What makes the experience even more special is the private butler service, on call 24 hours a day, to light your fire with a bundle of Pennsylvania applewood. www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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SUITE LIFE

ANDAZ 5TH AVENUE

CENTRAL PARK

Price: Suites from US$710 (A$887) per night / Reviewed by: Gary Allen

ROCKEFELLER CENTRE

TIMES SQUARE ANDAZ 5TH AVE

GRAND CENTRAL STATION EMPIRE STATE BUILDING

THE CHECKLIST Free Wi-Fi Complimentary mini bar 24-hour fitness centre A N DA Z K IN G S U I T E

HOTEL The hotel’s address at 485 5th Avenue in New York has a storied history in fashion and retail. Built in 1914 during the era of Manhattan’s legendary department stores, it was the largest and last of the Rogers Peet & Co. department stores, known for their men’s clothing. Located in the city’s Garment District, it later became the Tommy Hilfiger global headquarters before its transformation into the Andaz 5th Avenue hotel.

LOCALE The hotel is right on 5th Avenue, directly across the street from the landmark New York Public Li-

brary and Bryant Park, and only a few blocks from the Empire State Building and Grand Central Station. Times Square is only a 15-minute walk away. You’re right in the action of Midtown Manhattan, yet the neighbourhood seems to be a little quieter than the areas surrounding Rockefeller Center and St Patrick’s Cathedral.

The Andaz prides itself on being a hotel full of locals; the employees are called hosts and are eager to let you in on where to find the newest and coolest bars, restaurants and nightlife.

LOOK & FEEL I love that there is no ‘front desk’ in the lobby – at the Andaz, check

UPGRADE The Empire Terrace Suite spans 91 square metres and features a 165square metre wraparound terrace with views of iconic NYC landmarks.

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in is normally via an iPad en route to your room. The 184 rooms have high ceilings and, at a minimum of 30 square metres for Standard Rooms, they feel huge compared to other city hotels. The property was designed by Tony Chi, so expect clean lines and a contemporary feel.

It’s cool, but still classic New York.

EAT IN The Shop restaurant on street level is the place to head for breakfast, lunch or dinner. It fits right in to the neighbourhood, and serves up locally sourced, seasonal fare – the menu even lists the names of the shops, farmers and wineries whose produce is featured, from Katz’s Delicatessen to Sullivan Street Bakery.

For Latin-inspired tapas or an after-dinner cocktail, head down to the basement and the aptly named Bar Downstairs. It’s a comfortable lounge with a roaring

Turndown service

fire in winter, plus a cheese room, long communal tables and large leather lounges.

TREAT YOURSELF Don’t expect a big spa and swimming pool as you won’t find them here. Instead, your hosts are happy to arrange in-room massages on request. There is a well-equipped Life Fitness gym downstairs with plenty of options for a workout.

It’s unattended and quiet – I had the gym to myself when I was there late one afternoon.

SPECIAL TOUCHES Expect low-key and laid-back service with lots of complimentary offerings including minibar snacks and beverages, as well as books and laptops for the duration of your stay. There are also lounges off the lobby where you can pick up fresh coffee and muffins in the morning and enjoy wine in the evening.

A NDA Z K I NG S UI T E B A L CON Y

The hotel offers a Pet Program that allows you to bring your canine to stay with you and provides them with a doggie bed and bowls.

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SUITE LIFE

MILSONS POINT

PIER ONE SYDNEY HARBOUR WALSH

BAY

SUITE

Size: 62 sqm / Price: From A$999 per night / Reviewed by: Kelly Allen THE ROCKS PIER ONE

CIRCULAR QUAY

THE CHECKLIST Free WiFi 24-hour reception & room service Complimentary newspapers 24-hour reception Dry cleaning & laundry service Valet (A$50 per night) WA L S H B AY S U I T E B AT H R O OM

SUITE Perched on the harbour’s edge, the suite looks directly out over Walsh Bay. A daybed runs parallel to the windows, offering the perfect vantage point from which to soak up the sunlight. Due to the building’s heritage status, the suite retains many of its original Federation-style design elements and is fitted out in neutral tones of white and grey with blonde timber accents. There’s a large separate living room complete with lounge and dining table and the bathroom includes a deep tub.

LOCALE Pier One sits over the water at Walsh Bay in the historic Rocks

district, right alongside the Harbour Bridge. A 10-minute walk from Circular Quay and less than two kilometres from the CBD, the hotel is close to the city’s main attractions, but removed from the noise and crowds of the city centre. Sydney Theatre Company, Bangarra Dance Theatre, Sydney Dance Company and the Museum of Contemporary Art are all within easy reach.

LOOK & FEEL This 189-room hotel occupies a heritage-listed building and is steeped in maritime history. It was originally built in 1912 as a shipping wharf, and today elements of its past – exposed wood-

en beams and steel framing – give the hotel a strong industrial feel.

This is complemented by touches such as a zinc-clad bar and richly coloured velvet sofas to give the interiors a refined, contemporary finish. At ground level, a wall of glass opens out onto the pier, offering panoramic harbour views.

EAT IN One of the highlights of my stay was the seven-course degustation at Pier One’s hatted restaurant The Gantry. Head chef Joel Bickford is creative in his use of surprising ingredients such as sea urchin, scallops and daikon, and the Wagyu beef with sunchokes was a particular favourite.

Turndown service

Vegetarians are also well catered for, with a separate degustation menu featuring inventive dishes such as slow-cooked grains with mushroom and smoked prune.

For a less formal dining option, head outside to the pier and sample some of the barbecued specialities served up at The Kerrigan, a food shack home to Pier One’s charcoal-burning grill and smokery. The breakfast buffet includes artisanal pastries, fresh berries and fruit, chia puddings, bottled juices and an open kitchen where your eggs are cooked to order.

TREAT YOURSELF Aspire Fitness, the hotel’s gym, offers personal training and small

UPGRADE At 62 square metres, The Admiral Suite is equal in size to the Walsh Bay Suite. What sets it apart is its private deck and floor-to-ceiling windows that wrap around most of the room, offering expansive views of the Opera House, Sydney Harbour Bridge and Luna Park.

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A L L IM AG E S T H I S S PR E A D: JA R R A D S E NG

The hotel never fails to make the most of its enviable location, hosting pop up events on the pier year round.

This winter, Pier One created transparent igloo-shaped domes to keep guests warm while they sipped Mumm champagne and watched the sun set over the harbour.

T H E PI E R

group classes. Access to the gym is complimentary but classes and training incur a fee. There is no spa but in-room massages can be arranged through the concierge.

SPECIAL TOUCHES I was delighted to find a bottle of complimentary French sparkling wine waiting for me on arrival – one of the perks of booking directly with the hotel. I later discovered direct suite bookings also receive complimentary minibar snacks and beverages, WiFi and buffet breakfast. www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au T HE L OBBY

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SUITE LIFE

OVOLO LANEWAYS MELBOURNE TWO-BEDROOM

SUITE

Size: 52 sqm / Price: A$455 per night / Reviewed by: Katie Milton

FLINDERS STATION

YARRA RIVER

THE CHECKLIST Free WiFi Complimentary Grab N Go breakfast MILTON G A N PHO TO G R A PHY

Newspapers in lobby 24-hour reception

PE N T HOU S E L OU N G E

SUITE Behind room number 45’s vibrant red door lies a spacious two-bedroom suite envisaged by international design practice HASSELL to capture the vibe of the surrounding graffiti-filled Melbourne laneways.

Ovolo’s signature design quirks appear in the feature-wall chalkboard covered in hand-scribbled affirmations, statement lamps, niche coffee table magazines and an Ovolo loot bag filled with goodies, waiting for guests on the kitchen table.

LOCALE At 19 Little Bourke Street, set among the trendy laneways of Melbourne’s curfew-free CBD, sits

award-winning boutique hotel Ovolo Laneways. With the Princess Theatre around the corner, the hotel is only a five-minute walk to Collins Street and its high-end boutiques as well as the perfectly manicured Parliament Gardens – you have the best of Melbourne on your doorstep.

LOOK & FEEL Boutique is the key word here.

With just 43 rooms, the hotel’s reception area is small; the lobby bar is no more than bench seats and wood-block coffee tables opposite the lifts. But with mood lighting, statement silver eggs hanging from the ceiling and a

front-of-house candy station, Ovolo seems to nail the ‘small is beautiful’ ethos. In the hallways upstairs, benches are covered in AstroTurf, and the walls are fittingly plastered with photography of laneway street art.

EAT IN With Southeast Asian specialist Longrain restaurant moments away and the bustling streets of Chinatown just down the road, one could argue that there is no need for Ovolo to offer in-house dining or room service. What they do offer is a candy buffet in reception and a complimentary daily happy hour in the lobby

from 6pm. The ‘Grab N Go’ breakfast served on Level 5 each morning is a basic continental buffet.

TREAT YOURSELF While there is no spa or fitness centre, guests staying at the hotel have complimentary access to Genesis gym, a three-minute walk from the hotel. Ovolo also offers in-room massages by appointment.

SPECIAL TOUCHES The friendly staff member at the front desk was quick to offer me a map and circle the best brunch spots in the surrounding neighbourhood.

UPGRADE Covering 81 square metres, the Penthouse Suite offers guests two bedrooms, an outdoor terrace with a jacuzzi and views over the city, along with eccentric surprises such as an arcade pinball machine and DIY cocktail bar.

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The Ovolo hospitality concept is an all-inclusive one. Everything from the free mini bar snacks and loot bag to the WiFi and the breakfast is included in the rate.

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M I LTON G A N PHO TO G R A PHY

T H E R O OF TOP

SUITE LIFE

LANDMARK MANDARIN ORIENTAL HONG KONG APARTMENT

SUITE

Size: 180sqm / Price: From HK$32,300 (A$5,215) per night / Reviewed by: Gary Allen

THE CHECKLIST Free WiFi Pillow menu Turndown service Complimentary newspapers 24-hour reception

A PA R TME N T S U I T E B AT HR O OM

HOTEL

LOCALE

The Landmark Mandarin Oriental hotel is the chic, sparkling younger version of its parent hotel, the nearby historic Mandarin Oriental. It’s also much smaller, with only 113 rooms and suites.

The hotel is right in the centre of the CBD, making it a favourite for travellers who are keen to dig their teeth into the world class shopping and dining that Hong Kong is so famous for. Directly accessible from the hotel lobby is adjoining shopping mall Landmark, a famous hub of high-end designer outlets. The Central MTR station is directly beneath the mall and a web of elevators, escalators and undercover walkways connect the surrounding buildings.

SUITE The brand new Apartment Suite is redefining luxury at the Landmark. Designed by award-winning Hong Kong architect Joyce Wang, the 139-square metre suite has a slick cocktail bar, dining table for six, high-spec Gaggenau kitchen and an impressive two-metre circular spa bath. The colour palette of blue, caramel and gold feels suitably royal and it’s texturally rich with hand-tufted rugs and a padded leather headboard.

LOOK & FEEL The architecture is sleek, modern and sophisticated. Guests ascend a flight of stairs into a quiet, fragrant lobby and reception

area, leaving behind the bustling crowds and pressing humidity of the streets. Wang’s redesigned rooms and suites are some of the largest in the city – the L900 Landmark Suites feature marble entrances, circular glass-walled bathrooms and a chilled glass cabinet, replenished daily with treats from the hotel’s Michelinstarred restaurant.

EAT IN Breakfast is served in MO Bar, an all-day casual dining venue that becomes a hotspot for local businesspeople in the evenings. The star of the show, however, is finedining restaurant Amber. No. 24 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List and in possession of two Michelin stars, Amber’s

UPGRADE The Apartment Suite can be expanded into a two-bedroom, 186-square metre palace through an interconnecting door to the adjacent guest room.

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degustation menu features seafood delivered fresh daily from markets in Japan and artfully presented dishes like langoustine and Miyazaki wagyu beef.

TREAT YOURSELF The Oriental Spa is a two-floor oasis of elegance, warmth and light. The Spa features 15 treatment rooms (using products from cult Australian line Sodashi), vitality pools, ice fountains and amethyst crystal steam rooms alongside a traditional Turkish hammam, Moroccan rasul and Roman laconicum. There is also an 18-metre indoor lap pool and gym with yoga and pilates classes.

My tip: the 90-minute Jet Lag Cure is the perfect way to recover from a long flight.

SPECIAL TOUCHES My butler drew me one of the hotel’s signature Cocktail Bathtubs. A relaxing and indulgent experience featuring vanilla scented bath salts and two bath side cocktails.

A s e c o n d A pa rt m e n t S u i t e i s c u r r e n t ly under construction. It is set to be the hotel’s largest and is scheduled to open by the end of the year.

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MO B A R

SUITE LIFE

EL PALACE BARCELONA, SPAIN JUNIOR

SUITE

Size: 42-52 sqm / Price: €458 (A$513) per night / Reviewed by: Kelly Allen C E S A R R I TZ S U I T E

THE CHECKLIST Free WiFi 24-hour reception and room service Limousine service Valet parking (€30/A$45 per night) Complimentary newspaper 24-hour gym

HOTEL

SUITE

El Palace began life as The Ritz, one of the fabled luxury properties by the original hotel tycoon, César Ritz. It was the finest hotel in Barcelona when it opened in 1919, though was in for some tumultuous times ahead. During the Spanish Civil War of the 1930s it was collectivised, renamed the Hotel Gastronómico N.º1, and also served as an air raid shelter and hospital. By the mid 2000s, the Barcelona landmark was looking tired and closed for two years for a complete renovation priced at more than A$50 million. The property recently underwent another update, including the addition of the Jardin Diana, a rooftop garden home to more than 50 species of plants as well as fountains, a pool and pergolas.

The Junior Suite has elegant fabric-covered walls with velvet patterns, crystal chandeliers and billowing silk curtains, giving it a regal feel befitting its history. The large bathroom is Italian marble and has a separate whirlpool tub, double vanity and rain shower.

LOCALE El Palace is in one of Barcelona’s most prestigious neighbourhoods, surrounded by luxury boutiques and leafy boulevards. The city’s main strip, La Rambla, the Gothic Quarter and La Sagrada Familia are within walking distance.

LOOK & FEEL The hotel’s historic building is nearly 100 years old and the en-

try is grand with high ceilings, polished brass banisters, red velvet brocade and plenty of crystal chandeliers. Everywhere you look, rooms are filled with antiques and richly upholstered furniture.

EAT IN The Winter Garden might just be Barcelona’s prettiest rooftop terrace: an intimate indoor garden under glass with wrought iron furniture and bamboo armchairs.

It serves contemporary Mediterranean cuisine à la carte or as a set tasting menu. Located in the heart of the hotel, 19/Nineteen is a typical Parisian brasserie serving casual fare. There are a couple of bars, including Bluesman Cocktail Bar, where you can enjoy a drink while listening to jazz or

blues. There’s also the Club De Fumadores, a private smoking club with a cigar cellar and storage lockers for members to keep their own cigars.

Breakfast takes place in an enclosed garden similar to a conservatory. Don’t miss the local ham, manchego cheese and a delicious gazpacho.

TREAT YOURSELF The spa is inspired by Mayan culture and combines traditional rituals with lush Anne Semonin products. Book a steam in the Temazcal, a purifying sauna using volcanic rocks, inspired by pre-Hispanic indigenous customs. There’s also a lap pool on the roof and a small fitness centre.

UPGRADE Named after the man himself, the César Ritz Suite is a 150 square metre lesson in opulence, with a golden colour scheme (including real gold leaf), antique furnishings, plush fabrics and a restored Roman mosaic in the bathroom.

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Artist Salvador Dali lived at the hotel for long periods of time during the 1960s.

Fa m o u s ly, h e o n c e to o k a stuffed white horse to his suite as a gift for his wife Gala. The room is now named in his honour.

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SOFITEL ROME VILLA BORGHESE Price: Suites from €680 (A$1,005) per night / Reviewed by: Elizabeth Wood

THE CHECKLIST Butler service Turn down service Limousine service Free Wifi Room service

PR E S T IG E S U I T E

HOTEL

LOCALE

Originally the guesthouse of Italian aristocratic family Ludovisi Boncompagni, this converted 19th century palazzo has been a temporary home to more than a few film stars over the decades.

It began life as the Albergo Boston in 1890, named in honour of the city where the wealthy Italian owner made his fortune.

As the golden age of Italian cinema flourished, stars likes Ava Gardner and Walter Chiari checked in, their presence in the hotel honoured by black-andwhite prints that adorn the walls of the Sofitel.

Set next to Via Veneto, one of the most cosmopolitan streets in Rome, the hotel is within walking distance of the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain and a bustling strip of highend boutiques and restaurants.

The property borders the Villa Borghese gardens – the perfect escape for a jog, leisurely stroll or even a horseback ride.

LOOK & FEEL As the hotel is set in an historic building, the 81 rooms are noticeably smaller than other fivestar properties. The trade-off is a

luxurious and well-situated base from which to explore the surrounding city. Natural sunlight streams through timber-framed windows during the day, with views overlooking picturesque gardens. Inside, jewel tones combine with statement chandeliers and original design flourishes to give the hotel a contemporary, yet classically elegant, feel.

EAT IN La Terrasse Cuisine and Lounge is the hotel’s rooftop restaurant, offering fabulous views over the city and equipped with a retractable roof. The menu features

UPGRADE Three Prestige Suites occupy 50 square metres each and have private outdoor terraces.

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Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist and chef Giuseppe D’Alessio’s specialties include truffle risotto with duck foie gras and red wine glaze. The breakfast spread is indulgent, with croissants and other pastries, homemade yoghurt, six types of local cheese, freshly pressed green juice and the most amazing deep red orange juice I’ve ever tasted.

TREAT YOURSELF There is no spa or fitness centre but the concierge will happily point you toward the nearest gym and wellness centre. If you’re looking for an indulgent afternoon, I would suggest a long rooftop lunch at La Terrasse, Aperol spritz in hand, of course.

SPECIAL TOUCHES I was delighted to find my marbled bathroom stocked with Hermès amenities.

Federico Fellini, the director of lauded Italian film La Dolce Vita, spent many nights in one of the seventh floor suites during the 1960s.

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CHEF'S GUIDE | TAIPEI

O N E O F T H E W O R L D ’ S G R E AT F O O D C I T I E S , TA I P E I I S A M E LT I N G P OT O F E Y E- O P E N I N G C U L I N A RY E X P E R I E N C E S. L A R A B R U N T G E TS A TA S T Y T O U R W I T H C H E F Y A N N I C K A L L É N O , T H E B R A I N S B E H I N D T H E C I T Y ’ S A P P L A U D E D S TA Y B Y Y A N N I C K A L L É N O . www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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hef Yannick Alléno may have earned his stripes in his native France – two of his restaurants there have been awarded three Michelin stars – but these days he spends almost as much time outside of the continent as in it. Alléno manages a 16-strong restaurant empire, which stretches from Morocco to Dubai and Taiwan. Flying the flag for French gastronomy in the Taiwanese capital, his restaurant STAY by Yannick Alléno serves up dishes that unite local ingredients with classic cooking techniques – think confit duck in oolong black tea, and lobster with stone lotus. When the chef isn’t in the kitchen, he’s always on the lookout for delicious dining experiences.

Here is his guide to local restaurants, and must-see attractions to entertain between meals.

1. Mume Mume is a great casual fine-dining restaurant helmed by Australian chef Kai Ward, Hong Kong-born Richie Lin and American Long Xiong. Named the 43rd best eatery in Asia in the World’s

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C

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F ly i n g th e f l a g f o r F r e n c h gastronomy in the Taiwanese capital, his restaurant STAY by Yannick Alléno serves up dishes that unite local ingredients with classic cooking techniques.

Above, from left: Chef Yannick Alléno; dumplings at Din Tai Fung.

50 Best Restaurants awards in 2017, Mume’s food is European-Asian fusion with Nordic influences and a lot of local Taiwanese ingredients. The whole Mume kitchen came to STAY last September to cook for two amazing dinners.

28 Siwei Road, Da’an District; +886 2 2700 0901; mume.tw

2. Din Tai Fung This is the best chain of restaurants for traditional Taiwanese food. Din Tai Fung is one of Taiwan’s most famous exports, with outlets all over the world including Sydney and Melbourne. It’s very good. They have a dining room in the landmark Taipei 101 tower, where STAY Taipei is located, so I go there quite often to eat black truffle and pork xiao long bao, a modern version of their classic steamed pork dumplings.

Taipei 101 Mall, 45 Shifu Road, Xinyi District; +886 2 8101 7799; dintaifung.tw 3. Domaine Wine Cellars I am really passionate about wine and I love spending time in cellars. Domaine has a very comprehensive offering – you

can find the best French wines, they specialise in Burgundy and Champagne, and also discover a lot of interesting alternatives. They have a lounge where you can sit and enjoy a bottle of wine at retail prices, and they regularly host masterclasses and winemaker dinners.

383 Ren’ai Road, Da’an District; +886 2 2776 0066; domaine.com.tw 4. Sweet Tea Making pastries was my first job and it has remained an important part of my meals. Sweet Tea is our French patisserie in the Taipei 101 tower, where people come to eat in or simply take something away. I recommend the mille-feuille – we have about 10 different flavours to choose from.

Taipei 101 Mall, 45 Shifu Ro ad, Xinyi District; +886 2 8101 8277; staytaipei.com.tw 5. Elephant Mountain After lunch or afternoon tea at Sweet Tea, you can hike to the top of Elephant

R IB S AT M U M E

SW E E T T E A

Mountain (Xiangshan) for stunning views of the city and the Taipei 101 tower. It takes around 15 to 20 minutes to get to the top and there are a lot of stairs, but it is worth it. Go at sunset.

Trail starts near Xiangshan metro station, Xinyi District.

6. Tonghua Night Market Located in downtown Taipei, this is the city’s most local night market and definitely a must-visit if this is your first visit to the city. There are stalls everywhere serving popular street foods such as fresh dumplings, gua bao (pork belly buns) and yan su ji (salt-and-pepper chicken). It is crowded and I love the atmosphere. The downside is you could eat all night long.

Linjiang Street, Da’an District 7. Mountain & Sea House Set in a townhouse dating from the Japanese colonial era, Mountain & Sea House is the best place to enjoy fabulous Taiwanese food such as five-spice

tofu, stir-fried clams and crispy suckling pig. It is completely organic and produce is sourced entirely from local farms. This is very important for me – in fact, we initiated the Terroir Parisien culinary movement in 2006 to encourage people to eat local.

16 Zhongshan North Road, Zhongshan District; +886 2 2511 6224; facebook. com/vintagetaiwancuisine 8. Eighty-Eightea Rinbansyo Tea has always been an important inspiration for me – I really enjoy infusing ingredients with tea, as it gives them an unrivalled smoky flavour. I am especially fond of oolong, which happens to be Taiwan’s national brew. A traditional Taiwanese tea ceremony is something to experience at least once, and this atmospheric teahouse is located in the restored wooden quarters of a Japanese priest.

174 Zhonghua Road, Wanhua District; +886 2 2312 0845; eightyeightea.com

spend a lot of time visiting contemporary art museums and galleries, and it inspires me. At MOCA, there is a real contrast between the colonial architecture – the redbrick building dates back to the 1920s – and what is inside.

39 Chang’an West Road, Datong District; +886 2 2552 3721; mocataipei.org.tw 10. Chi-Wen Gallery My wife [Laurence Bonnel] is a sculptor and she owns a gallery at the Paris flea market; I spend almost every Sunday there to discover new artists. When I travel, I love to seek out independent galleries like Chi-Wen, which showcases contemporary Taiwanese art. The collections change each time I go to Taipei, so it is always a treat.

32 Zhongshan North Road, Shilin District; +886 2 2837 0237; chiwengallery.com

9. Museum Of Contemporary Art (MOCA) Contemporary art is my second passion and everywhere I go, art follows. I www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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ULURU'S

NATIVE BOUNTY B U S H T U C K E R TA K E S O N NEW DIMENSIONS WITH THE LAUNCH OF AN IMMERSIVE P R O G R A M C E L E B R AT I N G INDIGENOUS FOOD AND C U LT U R E I N T H E S P I R I T U A L HEART OF AUSTRALIA. K E L LY A L L E N H A S A TA S T E .

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www.luxurytravelmag.com.au B U S H TU CK E R J OU R N EYS AT AYE R S R O CK R E S OR T

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S AV O U R CULINARY TRAVELS ULURU

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ith a backdrop of Uluru and the Olgas, the Ayers Rock Resort hotels are arguably the best place in the country to enjoy the native herbs, spices, fruits, seeds, insects and wildlife that have sustained indigenous Australians for tens of thousands of years. The resort recently launched a new Bush Tucker Journeys program to introduce guests to these ancient flavours.

Indigenous celebrity chef and Bush Tucker Journeys’ ambassador Mark Olive (also known as ‘the Black Olive’) is with us for the opening weekend of the program. He has put together a dynamic menu and demonstrates how to incorporate traditional ingredients into everyday cooking. Mark’s culinary ease is impressive, and it’s mesmerising to watch as he whips up tasty chocolate desserts using Davidson plum, lemon myrtle and quandong.

Many of these native delicacies, often unknown to non-indigenous people, have remarkable nutritional benefits. We learn about the very high iron content of kangaroo, the citrusflavoured green ants that are traditionally used to treat coughs and colds, and quandongs, which are high in antioxidants and have twice the vitamin C of an orange. I walked away feeling inspired and wanting to broaden my palate while embracing the health-giving benefits of these local gems. Fortunately, Mark is the author of an easy-to-follow cookbook that also gives sources for the bush ingredients.

Later, we join Mark for a culinary masterclass followed by an alfresco three-course dinner. As the sun goes down we start our journey with a lemon myrtle cocktail and native plum martini while Mark explains his menu of smokedwallaby canapés, emu prosciutto, and Cone Bay barramundi with a creamy cauliflower and bunya nut puree. In between courses we listen to stories about the night sky, and view the full moon and Jupiter through two large telescopes.

The highlight is the luscious dessert: a desert lime gateau with green ant and coconut snow, poached quandong, compressed pineapple and whipped yoghurt panna cotta.

Mark is passionate about the unique appeal of

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Australia’s native ingredients and urges us all to embrace them, for both their delicious flavours and healing properties. Another of the activities on offer through the Bush Tucker Journeys program is a free daily cooking demonstration held in the resort’s square. One afternoon we learn how to make wattleseed shortbread. Not only is it delicious, with a slight roasted coffee flavour, but wattleseed is also high in protein, fibre, calcium, potassium, magnesium, iron and zinc. These are minerals my more traditional shortbread recipe is certainly lacking. You can also join an indigenous guide for a walk through the resort’s gardens, identifying native plants used for food and medicine. And each of the 10 restaurants at the resort has new menus that celebrate seasonal native ingredients.

You can’t visit Uluru without experiencing one of the signature Under the Night Sky dinners. We savoured dukkah-seared kangaroo loin

over quandong cous cous while looking across Bruce Munro’s exquisite installation at A Night at Field of Light (closing March 31, 2018) and tasted smoked crocodile on damper with desert lime at the Sounds of Silence.

For something extra special, Tali Wiru is a magical evening of fine dining, limited to just 20 people and set on a remote sand dune overlooking Uluru. Our evening starts with canapés and champagne at sunset accompanied by the haunting sound of a didgeridoo. The fourcourse menu with matching wines changes seasonally and there’s always a strong emphasis on indigenous flavours. We feast on pressed wallaby and fermented quandong, beetroot and Illawarra plum mousse with finger lime caviar, and winter cauliflower with bush tomato-cured egg yolk. A traditional storyteller shares tales of indigenous culture under the glittering outback sky and we finish the evening with port and

“

“

For something extra special, Tali Wiru is a magical evening of fine dining, limited to just 20 people and set on a remote sand dune overlooking Uluru.

DESERT CHATEAUBRIAND FROM ARNGULI GRILL & RESTAURANT AT DESERT GARDENS HOTEL. START THIS RECIPE ONE DAY IN ADVANCE.

TA L I W I RU FINE DINING E XPE R IE NC E UNDE R T HE S TA R S

native wattleseed-infused hot chocolate around the campfire.

For those wishing to arrive in style, there is an option to add a pre-dinner helicopter ride for a bird’s eye view of the immense Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park.

See more images from this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

THE BUSH TUCKER JOURNEY The Bush Tucker Journeys program is currently available at all properties within the Ayers Rock Resorts. Most activities are free. Chef Mark Olive will be back at the resort for the quarterly Uluru Feastivals, to be held 18-20 August and 3-5 November 2017, and 9-11 March and 22-24 June 2018. ayersrockresort.com

THE INGREDIENTS • Lemon myrtle • 900ml vegetable oil • 600g tenderloin fillet or tenderloin centre cut Drover’s salt • Pepper • • 1 garlic bulb, ½ crushed • 1 bunch thyme, ½ finely chopped • Desert raisins, ground • 100ml lemon myrtle oil • 1 tbs butter • Bush dukkah THE PREPARATION 1. Combine one tablespoon of lemon myrtle and 500ml of vegetable oil in a pot, put on a very low heat and cook for 15 minutes. Strain and cool the oil, and set aside.

2. Trim the tenderloin of all unnecessary fat and silver skin, and rub the meat all over with drover's salt and pepper. Perform a five-tie butchers knot around the meat to help it cook evenly.

3. Put 200ml of oil in a frying pan on medium heat and lightly sear the tenderloin on all sides.

Set aside to cool. Once the meat is cool enough to handle, rub with

the minced garlic, chopped thyme and desert raisins, and refrigerate overnight to marinate.

4. The next day, add 100ml of lemon myrtle oil and a sprig of thyme into a vacuum pack bag, add the meat and seal the meat in it. Set the sous vide for 58 degrees Celsius and cook the chateaubriand for 3.5 hours.

5. Once cooked, refrigerate immediately and only take out closer to the time of use. When ready to use, allow the meat to stand to warm to room temperature before you begin final preparations.

6. Heat a pan on high with 200ml vegetable oil and sear meat on all sides. Add in two cloves of garlic, a sprig of thyme and butter, and keep basting and turning until the meat has is a caramelised brown colour.

7. Preheat the oven to 250°C. Remove meat from frying pan, season with salt and pepper and transfer to a baking tray. Cook in the oven for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and rest for five minutes.

Transfer to plates and serve with a sprinkle of bush dukkah.

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S AV O U R EAT | BALI

BALI'S

BEST BITES

A W A V E O F N E W R E S TA U R A N T S A R E R E V O L U T I O N I S I N G B A L I ’S C U L I N A RY S C E N E . M A D DY G E R R A R D S A M P L E S T H E B E ST T H E I S L A N D H A S TO O F F E R , F R O M E A ST TO WEST AND EVERYWHERE IN BETWEEN.

G R IL L E D O CTOP U S , S A R ONG

SEMINYAK Seminyak is the beating heart of Bali and home to the island’s best restaurants. Opened in 2008, Sarong is one of the neighbourhood’s originals and still a firm favourite. It was the first and most sophisticated restaurant by Scottish-Portuguese chef Will Meyrick, who now has four restaurants in Bali. Reminiscent of a plush boudoir, the establishment’s dimly lit chandeliers and sunken velvet chairs create a seductive atmosphere, matched by a melting pot of Asian flavours and fine wines (not always a given in Bali). If you can’t get a booking here then try Meyrick’s delicious, but more casual restaurant Mama San.

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C R I S P Y P OR K BE L LY, S A R ONG

A L L IM AG E S T H I S PAG E: C UI S INE F R OM T H E S L O W

Those who prefer wood fires to the wok should head to KILN Petitenget. Previously the Petitenget Cafe, the revamped restaurant opened in May and has quickly become a crowd pleaser thanks to the smokin’ menu

by Australian chef Morgan McGlone (the man behind Belles Hot Chicken) and young Singaporean talent, Nick Scorpion. The restaurant plates up dishes like wood-fired pita with ‘banging’ hummus, roasted cauliflower, and chargrilled grass-fed beef with pimento and spring onion. Wash them down with a cocktail

by Albie Barrat from Oxwell & Co in Singapore.

For a touch of the Amalfi Coast in Bali, make your way to Da Maria, a hip new Italian joint opened by Australian restaurateurs Maurice Terzini and Adrian Reed. Terzini, who has been travelling to Bali for decades, is the man behind Icebergs Dining Room and Bar and Da Orazio Pizza + Porchetta in Sydney, while Reed runs the ever-popular Motel Mexicola in Seminyak.

Pre-dinner drinks are almost as important as the main event. Visit the newly opened Ocean Champagne Bar at The Legian Hotel and order a bottle Cristal, Dom Perignon or BillecartSalmon to go with the sunset.

CANGGU Once a sleepy resort village, Canggu is no longer just a magnet for surfers but attracts all things art, design and culinary. Nothing says this more than The Slow, a 12-room luxury hotel and restaurant 200 metres from surf beach Batu Bolong. Oozing bohemian spirit, this tropical haven is the work of former Ksubi designers George Gorrow and Gareth Moody (with Gorrow’s wife, model Cisco Tschurtschenthaler). Chef Shannon Moran

runs the kitchen for Eat & Drink, The Slow’s all-day restaurant. Taking inspiration from his travels around Europe, Asia and South America, the menu is a smorgasbord of small plates with big, bold flavours.

If you want to see and smell the sea, then head down the road to newly opened Ji Terrace by the Sea at the old-world Hotel Tugu Bali, perched on the water. The team of Japanese and Asian-trained chefs are led by Colin Buchan, who previously worked as a private chef for David and Victoria Beckham. Using fresh, local produce, the menu is an homage to Asian flavours from Japan, India, Thailand and Indonesia.

UBUD The promise of a great meal is a good enough reason to leave the beach behind and head for the jungles of Ubud. Temptation comes in the form of Locavore, touted as Bali’s best restaurant. Indonesian chef Ray Adriansyah works alongside Dutch chef Eelke Plasmeijer to plate up world-class cuisine with local flair. The menu celebrates the farmers, fishers and producers of Indonesia with 95 per cent of the kitchen’s ingredients sourced locally. Choose between five- and seven-course seasonal tasting menus in either Locavore or Herbivore style.

EAST BALI For a taste of the real Bali, skip the southern resorts and head east along the coast to Bali Asli. This restaurant and cooking school is run

by Australian chef Penelope Williams, who honed her skills at Sydney institutions The Boathouse, Bathers Pavilion and Danks Street Depot. 'Asli' means authentic in Bahasa and it is the focus of the food served and the cook-

ing techniques used, like traditional mud-brick stoves. The restaurant is set in an open-air house nestled at the base of Mount Agung, Bali’s highest mountain.

ULUWATU If white sand, blue water and a day bed is your vacation vibe then head to Sundays Beach Club in Uluwatu, Bali’s southern limestone clifffringed peninsula. James Viles, chef and owner of two-hatted Biota Dining & Rooms in Bowral, has recently come on board to redesign the menu.

Known for his dedication to local produce, Viles has sourced fresh ingredients to create dishes such as Sundays’ whole local lobster, chilled soba noodle salad, sticky peanut and pork buns, and healthy breakfast options for early risers. Stay until dusk for the beachside bonfire.

WEST BALI The untamed west of Bali is the least populated (and least visited) region of the island, but that’s part of its charm. Most of the region is covered with national park, while along the coast black-sand beaches sparkle in the sun.

The food scene here is still developing and luxurious resort Soori Bali is well ahead of the curve. Chef Diego Martinelli recently joined the team and is already leaving his mark, creating a special menu of farmyard chicken, Muscovy duck, quail and freshly caught fish, slow cooked with authentic Balinese spices to complement an evening of Balinese dancers.

Heston Blumenthal claims to have had one of his most memorable meals here.

Read more of this story at luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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T H E L AT E S T F R O M T H E W O R L D OF FINE FOOD AND DRINKS

EP CUREAN NEWS

WHISKY A GO GO

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elbourne will get to sample some of the world’s rarest scotch this September, with cocktail bar Eau-de-Vie hosting an exclusive degustation and tasting event. The Balvenie DCS Compendium Chapter One is a unique collection of five rare singlemalt whiskies, aged up to 46 years and worth A$57,000.

Eau-de-Vie is the only bar in the world in possession of a Chapter One; the remaining 49 editions produced globally were all sold into private collections. Tickets to the five-course degustation event are priced at A$1,500 per person. tickets.myguestlist.com.au

MICHELIN DINING IN THE MALDIVES

PIG OUT IN NEW ZEALAND

B

risbane cooking school the Golden Pig has announced a 10-day food and wine tour of New Zealand, which will take place from 17 to 26 March 2018. Co-hosted by the company’s owner Katrina Ryan and Kiwi restaurateur Vivienne Farnell, guests will be led on an epicurean exploration of New Zealand’s finest wines and dining venues.

The journey will kick off on Waiheke Island, with two nights at the Baywatch Estate and lunch at one of Farnell’s fine-dining restaurants, Poderi Crisci. From there, the experience will meander south, eventually culminating in a wine tour of Central Otago, in the countryside surrounding Queenstown. Highlights of the itinerary include a private cellar tasting and lunch at Amisfield Winery, and dinner at Botswana Butchery in Auckland. Ryan says the tour focuses on “hand-picked regional food and wine experiences, with a little bit of walking, cycling, cooking, kayaking and optional golf thrown in”.

Prices start from A$9,350 per person including accommodation, internal flights, transfers, all activities, and most meals and wine. goldenpig.com.au/food-tours

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M GOURMET ESCAPE

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oted best Australian food and wine region in our 2017 Gold List Awards, Margaret River’s four-day culinary festival (from 16-19 November) draws foodies from across the country. This year’s Margaret River Gourmet Escape will feature culinary stars such as Rick Stein, Luke Nguyen, May Chow and Alex Atala. New events will also be on offer, such as a scenic helicopter ride with Paul Iskov at The High Life and a Nautical Feast onboard Kimberly Quest II. margaretriver.com

aldives resorts Soneva Fushi and Soneva Jani will be hosting an eightstar Michelin culinary experience this October, in collaboration with Dutch chef Henk Savelberg. Six renowned Michelin-starred chefs, all hailing from the Netherlands, will be conducting events across both Soneva resorts from 21 to 25 October. The events will include a one-night-only restaurant takeover, food stall market and a ‘chef battle’, which will see the chefs competing in a head-to-head cooking contest. soneva.com

FOUR SEASONS SYDNEY UNVEILS MODE KITCHEN & BAR

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ode Kitchen & Bar has opened its doors on the ground floor of the Four Seasons Hotel Sydney in the Rocks. The 1920s-inspired venue serves a seasonal menu crafted by head chef Francesco Mannelli. Drawing on his experience at hatted Sydney restaurants Balla, est. and Uccello, Mannelli’s menu features Fremantle octopus, slow-cooked wagyu cheek, and king prawns with burnt

butter, as well as a signature carrot cake with citrus and cinnamon inspired by a family recipe. The 24-metre brass and stone bar serves signature interpretations of classic cocktails, like the Contessa, a smooth Negroni made with Brookie’s Byron Bay Dry Gin, Aperol and Antica Formula vermouth, and the Mode G&T, made with Archie Rose Dry Gin and StrangeLove Dirty Tonic. fourseasons.com

WILDFLOWER EXPERIENCE AT COMO THE TREASURY, PERTH

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his spring, COMO The Treasury in Perth will be offering guests a culinary exploration of the region’s indigenous produce, led by executive chef Jed Gerrard. The twoday experience will draw on the knowledge and practices of the traditional custodians of the land, the Noongar people, who have eaten the seasonal native plants in the area for thousands of years. Guests will be taken on a guided tour of Perth’s Kings Park where they will learn how indigenous Australians use blossoming wildflowers to determine which plants are ripe for eating. They will also get the chance to dine on a five-course meal designed to showcase local produce such as southwest marron (a freshwater crayfish) with native river greens, and wood-grilled Arkady lamb with artichoke, saltbush, peppermint tree cream and malt oil. The Wildflower Experience will be available from 1 September to 30 November and will include two nights’ accommodation, a welcome gift, picnic lunch, indigenous heritage tour, valet parking and a five-course tasting menu with paired wines.

Prices start from A$1,950 per person, twin share. comohotels.com/thetreasury

GOURMET GETAWAY WITH STEFANO MANFREDI

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ustralian-Italian chef Stefano Manfredi, often referred to as the ‘godfather’ of modern Italian cuisine, has partnered with luxury Sicilian villa Rocca delle Tre Contrade to offer a week-long culinary experience for aspiring home chefs and Italian food lovers.

Sitting on the fertile foothills of Mount Etna and surrounded by the fish-rich waters of the Ionian Sea, Rocca delle Tre Contrade provides a picturesque backdrop for a culinary exploration of Sicily. Over the course of the week, days will be spent visiting local fresh-food markets, taking guided tours of the nearby cities, and learning and practicing culinary techniques under the expert guidance of chef Manfredi.

In between meals guests can take a

stroll through the villa’s lemon groves and vegetable gardens, play a game of tennis or cool off in the pool. In the evenings, a gourmet dinner will be prepared by the villa’s in-house cooks and accompanied by local wines. After a long day of culinary immersion, guests will retire to their luxe rooms in the 12-bedroom, 19th century villa.

The culinary week will run from 14 to 21 October 2017. Prices for the seven-day experience start from €4,600 (about A$6,769) per person twin share. For those whose partners prefer relaxation to degustation, the villa also offers reduced rates for accompanying partners sharing the room and not participating in the culinary experience. thethinkingtraveller.com

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CREATIVE TRAVELLER

CHARLOTTE LYNGGAARD THE DESIGN FORCE BEHIND COPENHAGEN’S A P P L A U D E D J E W E L L E R Y B R A N D O L E LY N G G A A R D , C H A R L O T T E LY N G G A A R D TA L K S T O G R A C E S M I T H A B O U T H E R T R A V E L S A N D C R E AT I V E I N S P I R AT I O N .

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“

Many of the elements from nature can be found in our collections: the organic shapes and surfaces...

“

Grace Smith: Your designs incorporate natural elements. Are there any landscapes you’ve found particularly inspiring?

Charlotte Lynggaard: What inspires me most when designing is nature. Scandinavian nature, especially, is a major source of inspiration – the cold crisp light in winter changing to warm and blurry on long summer days, the forest and the sea. Having all this around me when growing up has

definitely had a significant impact on my love of nature. Many of the elements from nature can be found in our collections: the organic shapes and surfaces, the mix of colours, the handpicked stones.

GS: Where is your favourite place to holiday in Denmark?

CL: Last time we spent our summer holidays in Denmark we rented a little cottage in Tisvilde, an hour north of Copenhagen. Tisvilde is a charming little town that serves as a summer getaway for

many as it is situated near the coast and beach.

Tisvilde is known for its bohemian, artistic vibe and when we are there we park the car and bike around to visit friends, go to the local grocery store and the Saturday flea market, or to the beach. While you are there, check into the Helenekilde Badehotel. It's a cosy hotel that offers amazing sea views, and the atmosphere is very laid back and Scandinavian.

GS: Which jewellery pieces can you not go without when you’re travelling?

CL: My ‘Snakes’ bracelet designed by my father is always on my wrist, and my ‘Leaves’ ring.

GS: What tip would you give to people visiting Copenhagen?

CL: Visit Louisiana Gallery. It’s in a beautiful building with such breathtaking nature and sur-

roundings, fantastic exhibitions and a really good shop and café. It’s a great place to spend the day with the family.

GS: Does your jewellery style change when you’re travelling?

CL: I always bring a good selection so that I can create different looks depending on the occasion, by scaling up and down, mixing and matching and styling across collections. Sometimes I will wear ‘Nature’ rings to create the perfect, simple beach look. My big ‘Lotus’ ring with rutilated quartz is the ultimate statement piece for the evening. I wear colourful ‘Gipsy’ earrings with bohemian summer dresses or ‘Love Bands’ diamond earrings to sparkle up the night.

GS: What is your favourite Ole Lynggaard piece at the moment?

CL: It is, of course, hard to choose

only one, as all my designs are equally dear to me.

However, at the moment I am especially fond of the ‘Flower’ brooch. You can wear it with an evening dress as well as with a distressed t-shirt for a more relaxed, cool look.

GS: You’ve mentioned that you often draw inspiration from the people you see on your travels. What is your favourite destination for people watching?

CL: Women never cease to inspire me, regardless of the destination. Among my great, and very memorable, travel experiences are my trips to Japan. It’s been a couple of years now [since I last visited] but I always find so much inspiration – the culture, the aesthetics, the elegantly sophisticated women. It is all very fascinating. I always arrive home with my suitcase full of small Japanese bowls and decorations, and my head full of inspiration and ideas. www.luxurytravelmedia.com.au

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