THE RISE OF Biodegradable and Bio-Based NONWOVENS IN AFRICA

Africa Has the Biomass – Could It Also Be a Leader in Biodegradable

By Raymond Chimhandamba

Nonwovens?

Africa’s Opportunity in a Changing Nonwovens Landscape

The global shift toward sustainable materials has ushered in a new era for nonwovens, especially in the hygiene, packaging, and medical sectors. As concerns about plastic pollution intensify and regulations tighten across continents, the demand for biodegradable and bio-based alternatives is accelerating.

Africa, with its abundant agricultural biomass and growing industrial base, is uniquely positioned to capitalize on this trend. But the question remains: can Africa not only supply the biomass but also become a global leader in developing and manufacturing biodegradable nonwovens? And what are the necessary conditions that may allow this to happen?

By examining the potential for Africa to develop bio-based nonwoven inputs, such as sugarcane bagasse, pineapple fibers, cotton waste, bamboo, and others, the effort highlights innovation hubs and pilot projects in Kenya and South Africa, profiling research centers and universities that are pioneering bioplastics and natural fiber composites.

Ultimately, we ask: Can Africa leverage its biomass abundance to become a global leader in biodegradable nonwovens?

Global Context: Why Biodegradable Nonwovens Matter

The nonwovens industry underpins many daily essentials, including hygiene products, medical textiles, filtration media, wipes, and packaging. Traditionally, these products have relied heavily on fossilbased polymers, such as polypropylene (PP) and polyethylene (PE). While these materials offer excellent performance, they pose significant environmental challenges due to their persistence in landfills and oceans.

In response, demand for biodegradable and bio-based nonwovens is rapidly growing worldwide. Markets are driven by rising consumer awareness, plastic bans, and commitments to circular economy principles. Bio-based nonwovens are derived from renewable biological sources, whereas biodegradable nonwovens naturally break down in the environment. Combined, these materials promise to reduce plastic pollution and carbon footprints.

Africa’s role in this emerging market is currently limited, but it holds great promise. With vast agricultural sectors generating large volumes of crop residues and natural fibers, the continent has an under utilized biomass supply chain that can be harnessed for nonwoven raw materials. Moreover, Africa’s rapidly growing middle class and urbanization are driving local demand for hygiene and medical products, presenting a market opportunity for domestic bio-based production. Machine installation by absorbent hygiene products converters is also growing at a decent pace.

Fiber Futures: Harnessing Agro-Residues

Sugarcane bagasse, pineapple leaf fibres, cotton waste and linters, bamboo, banana leaves, corn stalks, wheat straw, sisal, and hemp present opportunities for natural fiber extraction. Out of these options for bio-fibers, some champions have emerged. Pineapple leaves and fibers are traditionally used in textiles but are increasingly being explored as reinforcements in composites and nonwovens. They can be transformed into nonwoven fabrics, offering a sustainable and versatile material for various applications.

Piñatex®, a branded textile developed by Dr. Carmen Hijosa of Ananas Anam, has gained traction. Piñatex is blended with other materials, such as polyester, to achieve specific properties. One of the most widely recognized bio-fiber innovations in recent years, Piñatex is used by almost 3,000 brands in 80 countries, according to the European Patent Office.

With utilization growing in a wide range of products and industries, Piñatex mostly known as a leather alternative across multiple industries, is found in fashion, footwear, upholstery, and automotive interiors. The material combines natural leaf fiber with polylactic acid (PLA) and is finished in Spain, resulting in a product that is both durable and commercially scalable. Piñatex production requires less water and avoids the use of harmful chemicals commonly found in traditional leather tanning.

Major global brands such as Hugo Boss and H&M have adopted Piñatex® in their sustainable collections, highlighting its market viability. With the global plant-based leather market expected to reach $69 million by 2023 and grow at a 6.2% CAGR through 2032, Piñatex stands as a flagship example of how agricultural waste is transformable into premium fiber solutions for the circular economy.

So far the most developed region for PALF is Asia and South East Asia, specifically Vietnam, Philippines, Thailand and Singapore, where pineapple cultivation is prevalent. Africa has certain advantages that could make it a future supplier of PALF. Considering the vulnerabilities caused by climate change for the key players in PALF, there is a strategic advantage in having a diversified supply base across continents.

Asia and Southeast Asia are prone to typhoons, particularly with the effects of climate change. Africa is prone to drought and is not spared from the changing global weather patterns, but this strategic diversification across continents offers a layer of security of supply for the key players. Also, there is climate change and climate resilience funding in place that can de-risk such a diversification, or at the very least make it less financially stressful.

Africa’s Biomass Potential for Nonwovens

Africa produces billions of tons of biomass annually, much of it under utilized or discarded. According to Africa for Investors, Africa produces more than 20 million metric tons of pineapples per annum. Major producers include countries like Ghana, Nigeria, Angola and Cote D’Ivoire. Nigeria, for example, is among the top ten global producers of pineapple, with 1.54 million tons, placing it in eighth position as a global producer. In addition, Africa offers significant cost advantages for pineapple production compared to other major producers worldwide. Additionally, Africa for Investors reports that in Ghana, cultivating pineapples costs around $300 per hectare, compared to $1,000 per hectare in Brazil.

The South African Department of Science and Innovation (DSI) has invested ZAR 1.5 trillion ($81.34 million) as of 2018 to support bio-innovation initiatives since the inception of the bioeconomy strategy. These strategic investments have resulted in over 240 technology-based products and services, 20 patents, and approximately 1,000 jobs.

As a way to fast-track this progress, biotechnology-innovation centers were created and finally incorporated into the Technology Innovation Agency (TIA) in 2010. Through this Innovation Fund the TIA allows biotechnology-innovation centers to leverage government funding to develop critical commercialization and intellectual property management skills for the country.

Other interesting projects have emerged from South African universities, with one notable example in the Valorization of Chicken Feathers: Production of Superabsorbent Fabrics via Nonwoven Technology. This research was conducted at the University of KwaZulu-Natal by Mbuyi Christelle Grace Kakonke, a thengraduate student in BEng Chemical Engineering (University of Pretoria) and supervised by Professor Bruce Sithole, BSc, MSc, PhD. The research involved needle-punched superabsorbent nonwoven fabrics for diaper production. It was based on the fact that several studies have demonstrated potential routes for the beneficiation of feathers through the extraction of keratin from them. The thesis investigated the possibilities of extracting keratin fibres from waste chicken feathers (WCFs) for use in the production of superabsorbent fabrics, such as in hygienic applications.

Chicken feather fibres (CFFs) were identified as plentiful, to be used as cheap raw materials in the production of the nonwoven fabrics used in diapers. The project studied adequate methods for extracting fibres from feathers as well as their conversion into fabrics. A novel rapid mechanical method was chosen for the extraction of CFFs from WCFs, and the extracted fibres were characterized for their physical and morphological properties.

The dry laid technique via needle punching was the best-suited technique of incorporating the recycled fibres into nonwoven fabrics versus using a wet-laid technique. The process variables like speed, stroke frequency, and the depth of needle penetration were studied to determine their effect on the fabrics. A linear model was fitted and the optimum production parameters that resulted in high absorbency of the fabrics were 1.187 m/min for speed, 265.42 Hz for stroke frequency, and 2.92mm for depth of needle penetration.

Needle-punched absorbent fabrics were developed by the treatment of fibres with absorbent solutions that imparted superabsorbent properties on the materials. The liquid absorption characteristics of the novel superabsorbent material were studied, and the effect of coating polymers was assessed. The produced fabrics were investigated for suitability as replacements for superabsorbent fabrics currently used in hygienic products. The results suggested that there is a possibility of producing highly valuable products from CFFs. Furthermore, the nonwoven fabrics exemplified the possible waste valorization pathways for these fibers.

Farm Waste to Future Materials: Cassava-Based Bioplastics

BioInnovate Africa is a regional science and innovation-driven initiative that works in partnership with International

Centre of Insect Physiology and Ecology (ICIPE) in Nairobi, Kenya. The initiative supports scientists in Eastern Africa to link biology-based research ideas, inventions, and technologies to the market. Scientists work collaboratively at a regional level, and involve interdisciplinary teams from academia, industry and government to co-develop solutions that address the region’s development priorities.

Shared in June 2025, the organization is exploring the possible use of cassava for bioplastics will use cassava biowaste (peels) and other biowaste to produce ecofriendly packaging products for the region. Cassava is a highly resilient crop that is widely cultivated in East Africa. Other biomaterials to be used include vegetable oils and natural resins, and fibres extracted from sugarcane bagasse, wheat, rice, and maize stover. Packaging materials from cassava biowaste will provide more ecofriendly alternative products. It is further envisaged that the production of biodegradable packaging materials could boost local cassava production capacity and create more jobs.

The project will develop grocery bags, food packaging, bio-based packaging materials for grain storage. The technology relies on conventional polymer processing. Starch from cassava waste will be converted into bioplastic extrusion, injection and compression moulding and solution casting. It will involve blending and proportion integration of various waste materials with the final product constituting at least 70% of the cassava biowaste as a base material. The products shall be able to biodegrade between three to six months, hence providing the best alternative to polythene-based plastics. If successful, the innovative alternative biodegradable packaging products will improve the management of cassava waste and other bio-wastes. Cassava farmers will benefit from market access, and businesses and consumers will be able to comply with the ban on plastic bags by using biodegradable alternatives acceptable to the regulators. New green jobs are likely to emerge within the production value chain. In addition, bio-based cassava packaging materials substitute for wood-based packaging materials, reducing pressure on forests and, at the same time, contributing to climate change mitigation efforts.

Challenges and Barriers to Scaling and Strategic Recommendations

Despite potential, Africa faces challenges in scaling bio-based nonwoven production. There is limited funding and investment, as well as limited facilities for testing, scaling up, and commercializing new biofiber and nonwoven technologies. There is a scarcity of high-tech labs, advanced material characterization tools, and testing equipment (e.g., SEM, tensile testing, biodegradability chambers) that are sparse or inaccessible. Generally, there are inadequate linkages between labs and industry. Many universities and research institutions work in silos, without strong ties to manufacturing ecosystems.

There is limited standardization, aggregation, or preprocessing of natural fibers, resulting in inconsistent sourcing for R&D or commercial use. In addition, there are low industrial demand signals. Because there is no strong local market for bio-based nonwovens, there is limited pull for innovation from converters or FMCGs.

The African region also has a skills and talent gap. There is a shortage of materials science expertise. Specialized skills in polymer chemistry, fiber engineering, and nonwoven processing are rare and often concentrated in a few institutions. The few talented researchers often leave for opportunities abroad, draining local capacity for innovation. Innovation in biobased nonwovens requires convergence between agriculture, chemistry, engineering, and design and this is still a challenge in many African institutions, but there is limited interdisciplinary collaboration.

To unlock Africa’s bio-based nonwoven potential, stakeholders have several strategic actions to consider include:

• Developing integrating biomass value chains by investing in aggregating agricultural residues and natural fibers through cooperatives and industrial parks to ensure consistent raw material supply;

• Strengthening innovation ecosystems by supporting research hubs with funding;

• Creating strong and vibrant international partnerships; and,

• Establishing technology transfer programs focused on bio-based materials and nonwoven manufacturing.

Bright Future: Circular Bioeconomy and Sustainable Industry

Africa stands at the cusp of a new industrial era where circular bioeconomy principles can guide sustainable growth. The continent’s biomass wealth, coupled with growing innovation capacity, positions it to develop bio-based nonwoven materials that reduce plastic pollution and promote local industry.

Early pilot projects in East Africa, South Africa, and other countries demonstrate that converting agricultural residues into biodegradable nonwovens is technically feasible and economically promising. With strategic investment, policy support, and stakeholder collaboration, Africa can build a competitive bio-based nonwoven industry.

African countries can build local manufacturing capacity by promoting the establishment of pilot and commercialscale bio-based nonwoven production lines, leveraging public-private partnerships involving agri-processors, textile players, and universities.

Governments should develop enabling policies and incentives promoting biodegradable products, waste segregation, and circular economy business models.

Regions and sub-regions must foster a collaborative approach to facilitate knowledge exchange and trade, thereby scaling production to create pan-African supply chains under frameworks such as the BioInnovate Africa or African Union.

The ACEN – Africa Circular Economy Network – is a good example. Established over seven years ago, it has a network of over 500 experts across 42 African countries and strategic partnerships with global entities, including the World Economic Forum, the World Bank, UNEP, and the African Development Bank.

South Africa’s CSIR (Centre for Scientific and Industrial Research) is another strong pillar of innovation in various industrial and scientific research.

Africa’s abundant biomass resources represent a largely untapped opportunity to drive sustainable industrial development through bio-based and biodegradable nonwovens. Innovation hubs in Kenya, the East African sub-region, and South Africa are already making progress, and the scale-up potential is substantial.

As global supply chains diversify and sustainability demands rise, Africa’s biobased nonwovens could become soughtafter exports, bringing new jobs and technology transfer to the continent. The vision of Africa as a leader in biodegradable nonwovens is within reach – if the continent acts decisively to harness its natural assets and innovation potential.

Ultimately, Africa’s future as a leader in biodegradable nonwovens depends on embracing circular economy thinking and investing in bioeconomy innovation. With vision and commitment, it’s natural wealth can become a catalyst for cleaner industry and sustainable prosperity.

Raymond Chimhandamba, an international expert, author and speaker on Africa’s absorbent hygiene products (AHP) sector is the founder/CEO of Handas Consulting, a boutique consulting company based in South Africa. He has presented at global conferences on the Africa region, such as those led by INDA and EDANA. He is also CEO at Kunakisa Recycling, a plastic recycling start up based in Pretoria, South Africa that he started in 2021. Reach him at ray@ raychimhandamba.com or +27 81 487 6785.