Indagare Magazine Fall/Winter 2022

BOTSWANA PARIS LONDON SICILY MALTA PORTUGAL MEXICO CITY AMAZON

+

MORE EPIC TRIPS

FALL/WINTER 2022

Indagare inspires and empowers people to change their lives –and the world– through travel.

ON THE COVER: COURTESY WILDERNESS SAFARIS; BACK COVER: COURTESY ELISE BRONZO. CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: MUSEO FRIDA KAHLO; VILLA PALLADIO; COURTESY DUKE’S CAMP; ALESSANDRO BARATTELLI.

C

N T E N T S FALL/WINTER 2022

4-5 On My Mind

Passport to Everywhere

6-7 Our Journey (So Far) Indagare Turns 15

Clockwise from above: A dress at the Frida Kahlo show at Palais Galliera, Paris (page 19); Jaipur’s Villa Palladio (page 11); a Botswana boat ride (page 14); stuffed pasta at Pulejo, Rome (page 24). On the cover: Jao Camp, Botswana. Back cover: Namibia sunset.

8-17 On Our Radar

32-33 Easy Itinerary

18-23 Culture Watch

34-41 Insider Journeys

24-29 Spotlight

42-43 Indagare Impact

30-31 Style

44-45 Global Experiences

This Season’s Top Travel News

Fall/Winter Arts Preview

Rome Revival

Paris Shopping

Three Days in Sintra, Portugal

Our 2022 Trips

Making a Difference

Behind the Scenes

1

Let us help you make the most of your next trip. | 212-988-2611| membership@Indagare.com 2

INDAGARE.COM

PHOTO BY RENÉE KEMPS, COURTESY AIRELLE.

At Indagare, our mission is to inspire and empower people to change their lives—and the world—through travel. With your preferences and goals in mind, our trip designers will craft a custom roadmap for a lifetime of meaningful travels that will positively impact you and the places you visit. Welcome to the journey.

C

N T E N T S

FALL/WINTER 2022

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY INDIA HICKS; INDAGARE; BETH EVANS, COURTESY SESSIONS ART CLUB.

Sessions Art Club, London (page 66). Above, from left: India Hicks and Christian Louboutin in Melides, Portugal (page 74); Indagare’s Diana Li in the Amazon (page 58).

BOOK NOW We can plan trips to any of the destinations in this issue. Visit indagare.com/go to get started.

FEATURES 46-57 A Tale of Two Islands 58-65 Amazon Dreams 66-73 London’s Best New Restaurants 74-77 Portugal Postcard 78-85 Mexico City, Decoded 86-96 Epic Adventures 3

O N

MY

M I N D

PASSPORT TO EVERYWHERE W

hy do we all love to travel and to dream about travel? Often, it is to see amazing sights: the Taj Mahal at dawn or the Serengeti from a hot-air balloon. Sometimes, it is to challenge ourselves physically and spiritually: to climb Kilimanjaro or to walk the Camino de Santiago. We pursue a passion or continue our education—to study pasta making in Italy or learn Spanish in Mexico or wildlife photography in Alaska—or we just go to escape our routines and recharge: to fall asleep to the sound of the surf or the silence of the desert.

Whatever the reason, travel shifts our perspective, and that’s why it is such a powerful dream practice, opening us up to new ways of looking at the world—including our place in it. I think that’s why people so often have a-ha moments on the road. Distance and new environments help us open our eyes to the world’s multitudes, as well as make us believe in possibilities and in new ways we can live our lives—both on the road and back at home.

To bring the positive power of travel to a wider community, and to share discoveries from time on the road, I am now hosting a weekly SiriusXM radio show and podcast, called Passport to Everywhere. It allows me to take listeners on an incredible worldwide journey, as I introduce them to inspirational guests, talk about dream destinations and share travel tips and advice (I hope that you will all tune in on Thursdays at 12:00 p.m.

ET on SiriusXM Business Radio, Channel 132, or wherever you get your podcasts).

4

INDAGARE.COM

The show was inspired by my 30-year career in travel. First as the travel editor at Town & Country magazine, for more than a decade, and then as the founder of Indagare. Remarkably, our company turned 15 this year—I don’t know where the time went, but I do know I’m in awe of how we have grown and transformed, thanks in large part to you—our amazing community of likeminded travelers.

Back in 2007, when we went live with an editorial travel website and magazine, not even I—and I’m a bigtime dreamer!—could ever have imagined that 15 years later, our team would be helping thousands of travelers take thousands of trips, or that I would spend a large part of the year leading groups on behind-the-scenes Insider Journeys (I am writing this from Italy, where I am currently traveling with 23 of our members). Also, there were four of us and now there are 80 on the team.

In my career, I’ve had a front-row seat to the transformation of the travel industry but also to the transformative power of travel itself.

In every one of the more than 110 countries I have been fortunate to visit, I’ve been blown away by the simple truth that travel changes lives. And not just our own, but those of the people in the places that we visit, especially when we go there responsibly, consciously considering how to protect heritage, community and environment.

The more I’m on the road (and this year, I will have spent months away from my home

in NYC), the more I am convinced that travel is not just about where you go but how the journey shapes you. When you step outside of your routine and your habits, you open yourself up to new ways of perceiving the world, as well as living in it. Meeting people with very different life experiences can make you re-examine your own opinions and beliefs and allow you to see how much we truly have in common. When you join the global community, you begin to understand the world as a whole—not just a part—and this is empowering, and makes you stronger and smarter everywhere you are.

Obviously, I am not the first obsessive traveler to recognize this. More than 150 years ago, Mark Twain famously acknowledged that: “travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.

Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner.”

I’m no Mark Twain, but each week on the SiriusXM show, I will take you around the world and introduce you to some of the most amazing people I meet, including thought leaders and innovators whose lives have been shaped by their explorations. And back at our virtual Indagare flagship—now spread across 24 states and multiple countries—you can be sure that team will continue to inspire your journeys, be it with insider intel on what’s new in Rome (see p. 24) or helping you plan epic trips (a few highlights of the last 15 years are captured, starting on p. 86).

15 Years of Indagare At our first, post-Covid reunion (above), there were tears of joy over what a big team we are once again, a moving moment for me and longtime collaborators, COO Eliza Harris and Simone Girner (top right), both of whom worked with me at our launch. Also increased in the last 15 years: my days on the road. Right: One of my first Indagare scouting trips to Turkey in 2008.

When we launched, one of our mission pillars on the website read: “We believe in connecting people, because collective intelligence will create the next generation of travel wisdom.” That was true in 2007 and is even more true now. Indagare would not be what it is today without you. Whether you have been along since the very beginning or joined more recently, your shared discoveries and passions are what powers this travel tribe. How you travel matters.

TEAM PHOTO BY JOSH LAUDER; TOP RIGHT AND BOTTOM: INDAGARE.

I’m very excited to continue the journey with all of you.

MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY INDAGARE CEO @INDAGAREFOUNDER & @INDAGARETRAVEL

Indagare is a members-only boutique travel-planning company. We offer curated content, customized trip-planning and group trips around personal passions. Indagare Magazine is published twice annually exclusively for Indagare members. © 2022 Indagare. All Rights Reserved. See the magazine online at indagare.com. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Trip inquiries and change of address requests can be made by phone or by emailing info@indagare.com.

Indagare Membership Office: 212-988-2611 1177 Avenue of the Americas New York, NY 10036

Follow @INDAGARETRAVEL

5

The Indagare Journey (SO FAR)

2007

Indagare: Launches as a digital travel platform, with a magazine, designed to connect passionate travelers—from a two-bedroom Upper East Side apartment.

World: Apple trots out the iPhone, which debuts with a camera; Singapore Airlines flies the new Airbus A380 between Singapore and Sydney.

2011

2012

2013

2017

2018

2019

Indagare: First around-the-world trip planned; third office in Midtown! Indagare souks (pop-up trunk shows) make the scene; nine Insider Journeys— from Cuba to Cambodia. World: TSA PreCheck launches; the 9/11 Museum and the High Line open in NYC; Boeing’s 787 Dreamliner takes off; Arab Spring protests arise in North Africa and the Middle East.

Indagare: 10 years and 75 employees! World: “Overtourism” enters the travel lexicon from Venice to Angkor Wat; Hurricane Harvey wreaks havoc in Texas; Irma and Maria devastate the Caribbean; Yves Saint Laurent Museum opens in Marrakech (right); Louvre Abu Dhabi debuts.

6

INDAGARE.COM

Indagare: More than $10 million in trips booked; weekly destination “Teach-ins” begin. World: Costa Concordia capsizes off Tuscany; Global Entry pilot program introduced; Space X sends a capsule to the International Space Station; London gets The Shard; Elizabeth II celebrates 60 years as queen.

Hurricane Sandy strikes; Game of Thrones gives Croatia a boost.

Indagare: $10 million in revenue.

World: HBO’s My Brilliant Friend reminds us why we love Italy; Symphony of the Seas is the largest cruise ship ever; plastic straws abandoned by major travel brands.

Indagare: First-annual Mii amo retreat; Insider Journeys to Russia and Myanmar. World: Hello, Google Maps; Amex Centurion Lounge does Las Vegas airport; improved in-flight entertainment, amenity kits and lie-flat beds introduced; Bangkok is on the rise as a destination; Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown airs on CNN.

Indagare: 7,500 trips booked to 122 countries! Strategic partnerships & impact program launched; named to Inc. 5,000. World: Hurricane Dorian leaves Bahamas in ruins; Istanbul and Beijing open world’s largest airports; NYC’s Hudson Yards debuts; fires at Notre Dame in Paris and across Australia; Greta Thunberg makes waves at UN climate summit; first Covid case diagnosed in Wuhan.

INDAGARE

If the past 15 years have taught us anything, it’s that travel, like life, may surprise you. It’s hard to fathom a world without iPhones, Uber, Instagram (or Indagare) anymore—all of them launched since we did in 2007.

Here are some of the highlights that have shaped us and the way we travel now. #HOWYOUTRAVELMATTERS

2008

Indagare: Trip-planning memberships added, and Le Guanahani in St. Barth’s (below right) is our first hotel booking for a member.

World: The Beijing Olympic Summer Games open with controversies over human rights; the global financial crisis rocks world economic markets; terrorists from Pakistan take over two luxury hotels in Mumbai.

INDAGARE

2014

2009

Indagare: To encourage travel back to Mexico after the bird flu, Melissa leads our first Insider Journey to the Riviera Maya with 14 travelers; bookings top $1 million. World: WHO declares H1N1 (swine flu) a global pandemic; Captain “Sully” Sullenberger miraculously lands US Airways Flight 1549 on the Hudson River.

2015

Indagare: Our 57th Street, NYC office opens its doors with a Membership team, 35 employees and 12 Insider Journeys to Egypt, Marrakech and beyond.

World: Orient-Express becomes Belmond; Ebola puts the world on alert; The Brando shines a light on sustainable luxury; selfie sticks are the must-have gift of the year.

Indagare: Named to Crain’s Fast 50 (fastest-growing companies); Insider Journey to the Dolomites (left).

World: Terrorist attacks take Paris by surprise at the offices of Charlie Hebdo and Bataclan concert hall; Zika puts a cloud over tropical vacations and Rio’s Olympic Games; direct flights resume between the U.S. and Cuba for the first time in 50 years.

2020

2021

Indagare: NYC office goes remote after Covid lands stateside; Global Classroom launches virtual programs, WSJ+ partnership, podcast, summer camp and Future of Travel Summit; the first Insider Journey returns to Rwanda. World: WHO declares Covid-19 a pandemic and makes masks mandatory in public; Glass Fire ravages Napa Valley; only 11 countries open to U.S. travelers.

Indagare: Index & Ambassador pilot programs launch; Global Classroom hits 27,000 RSVPs, 450 events; Safari Style celebrates Africa (below).

World: Widespread Moderna & Pfizer vaccines; U.S. borders reopen and Saudi Arabia reopens to tourism.

2010

Indagare: Employee count hits10; move to threebedroom office.

World: Uber, Instagram, Airbnb and Dubai’s Burj Khalifa debut; Borgo fever spikes in Tuscany; an Icelandic volcano causes ash-covered skies across Europe.

2016

Indagare: 5,000 trips planned.

World: Harry and Meghan jet off to Botswana; Marriott buys Starwood to become the world’s largest hotel company; Chef’s Table airs, proving that food is worth traveling for, from Patagonia to Sweden.

2022

Indagare: 15!

Bank of America partnership starts; staff is at 80; 36 Insider Journeys; Indagare Studio is born; Melissa Biggs Bradley (above) launches SiriusXM Radio show and podcast; company is 45% carbon neutral;1% revenue goes to conservation efforts.

World: Travelers return to Europe in droves; Russia invades Ukraine; China still has a zero Covid policy.

7

ON OUR RADAR

Fall’s Coolest Hideaways THE HUDSON VALLEY and the Catskills have long been getaways of choice, drawing artists (thanks to the Hudson River School); and travelers (with resorts, like the one memorialized in Dirty Dancing); and hippies (yes, Woodstock). Now, with a signature mix of fashion and funk, the region is attracting a new generation of bon vivants with trendy lodges—and all two hours or less by car. These are the newcomers to know: Little Cat Lodge, Hillsdale: A 14-room alpine-inspired hotel and restaurant situated on seven acres, within a century-old lodge and local landmark formerly known as Swiss Hutte.

Wildflower Farms, Auberge Resorts Collection, Gardiner: Tucked amid 140 secluded acres, the latest property from Auberge Resorts, Wildflower Farms offers 65 freestanding cottage-style accommodations and a plethora of wellness and outdoor activities.

Inness, Accord: Set on 225 acres between the Catskill and Shawangunk mountain ranges, Inness offers 28 freestanding cabins and a 12-room farmhouse. The classic-meets-contemporary escape is reminiscent of England’s Heckfield Place.

Piaule, Catskill: On the site of a former bluestone quarry, Piaule is a 50-acre minimalist retreat—from the homewares brand and studio of the same name—focused on low-impact design and sustainability. The spa and wellness center are well-hidden within the hillside.

Aurum, Mount Tremper: From Million Dollar Listing New York’s Steve Gold and designer Samuel Amoia, this debut project is slated to open towards the end of the year within a historic lodge on 131 mountainous acres, featuring 36 rooms, private residences and a truly singular Roman-style hammam that celebrates the ancient spa and social rituals of the imperial baths.—Elizabeth Harvey

AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION

A Wildflower Farms cottage in the Hudson Valley.

O N

O U R

R A DA R

HOTEL WATCH: PLACES IN THE SUN TURKS & CAICOS: Now arriving on the secluded north coast of Provindenciales is Rock House, Grace Bay Resorts’ latest oasis, modeled after a cliffside European resort, complete with an Adriatic-inspired restaurant, beach club, jetty and 100-foot-long infinity pool. Shawn Henderson has designed the 46 stylish villas with floor-to-ceiling windows,13-foot ceilings and outdoor shower gardens—and studios and suites that can be combined (ideal for families and friends).

CAYMAN ISLANDS: Style setters and foodies take note: Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman (newly reimagined

by Champalimaud Design) will host Cayman Cookout, January 12 to 16; Eric Ripert has cooked up an all-star roster for the annual food fest that includes chefs Andrés, Boulud, Colicchio, Zimmern and Crenn.

MEXICO: On a 3,000-acre swathe of jungle along Jalisco’s Pacific coast, Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo is at once emblematic of big-brand resorts—a golf course, spa, three pools and four restaurants—and defiant of their plop-me-anywhere stereotype.

Uniquely, a cohort of Mexican nationals is behind Tamarindo’s design, staff uniforms and cuisine. Plus: 98 percent of the property remains a nature preserve.

COMING SOON: Intel from our team on the 12 new suites that have been added at Jumby Bay Island in Antigua—guaranteeing gorgeous ocean views and spacious indoor/outdoor-style living spaces with private pools that are all just minutes from the beach.

—Jen Barr & Peter Schlesinger

LET US DESIGN YOUR NEXT TRIP: Contact Indagare or your Trip Designer to help craft a Caribbean itinerary: 212-988-2611 or visit indagare.com.

10

INDAGARE.COM

COURTESY GRACE BAY RESORTS

The jetty at Rock House in Turks & Caicos.

Villa Palladio, right, and below.

Bottom: The latest White Lotus cast.

STYLE FILE: UP AT THE VILLA Barbara Miolini’s newest project, Villa Palladio, completes the Swissborn designer’s trifecta of stylish Italian-inspired spots in Jaipur, joining Bar Palladio and Caffé Palladio. Inside, the chic nine-room boutique hotel is drenched in rich reds, a bold and striking contrast to the crisp white exteriors. Located 40 minutes outside the Pink City, the intimate private estate has a pool, spa and rose-filled gardens, providing a tranquil and inviting retreat from the swirling pulse of the Pink City.

Contact Indagare or your Trip Designer to help craft an itinerary to India.—Elise Bronzo

FROM TOP: COURTESY VILLA PALLADIO; FABIO LOVINO COURTESY HBO

Sicily’s Star Turn

Indagare’s Victoria O’Leary was staying at Il San Corrado di Noto in Sicily when she caught sight of the cast and crew of HBO’s The White Lotus, Season Two, who’d just wrapped filming at San Domenico Palace, Taormina, A Four Seasons Hotel. We love that the property (and Sicily) are the backdrop for one of the best satires of the modern vacationer this time around. Although the Emmy-winning dark comedy, now airing, has a new cast, thankfully our favorite guest, Jennifer Coolidge, is checking in again as the lonely Tanya McQuoid.–P.S. 11

All aboard, left: Les Montagnes suite on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.

Below and bottom left: Views and details in the La Campagne suite.

IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE a more romantic (and nostalgic) way to travel than by train—with the countryside whizzing by as you sip tea (or Champagne) and dream about the next stop on your journey.

Belmond’s Venice Simplon-Orient-Express recently unveiled eight gorgeous new suites that invite you to live out your travel fantasies of a bygone era without sacrificing creature comforts. Paying homage to the golden age of train travel, the suites have been masterfully restored by craftsmen in France in classic Art Deco style, but with the added benefits of an en-suite bathroom and a newly configured daytime layout—no cramped carriages here. Suites draw design inspiration from the various landscapes the train traverses: mountains, lakes and forests. Somehow, Belmond’s train manages a seemingly impossible feat: maintaining

12

INDAGARE.COM

a sense of place while moving between cities at 100 miles per hour. Also new to the train is chef Jean Imbert. Since winning France’s Top Chef in 2012, Imbert has taken over the kitchens at Hôtel Plaza Athénée in Paris and Dior, across the avenue. Now, he’s re-envisioning the Simplon-Orient-Express’s dining experience and menu, and the three dining cars have recently been given a face-lift.

Like the new suites, they honor the train’s Art Deco history, and each of the restaurants captures a different essence of classic train travel. So often in travel, the experience is about the destination, and how you get from point A to point B is an afterthought (or a pain point).

On the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, the journey is the experience. And now, the journey is more luxurious than ever.

—Madeline Case

COURTESY BELMOND

TRAIN TRAVEL: A NEW GOLDEN AGE

Indagare’s Kathryn Nathanson at the Great Sphinx of Giza. Right, from top: King Tut’s Tomb in Luxor; Giza views.

MUSEUM FILE: EGYPT’S LATEST GEM

INDAGARE

Spellbinding and epic, Egypt is home to one-third of the world’s antiquities, including the only remaining Great Wonder of the Ancient World (the Pyramids of Giza)—making it a once-in-a-lifetime must. And its tourism sector has been busy creating more infrastructure and new attractions: There is no museum opening more anticipated than the Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM). The museum, set to debut at Giza in the coming months, will house the world’s largest collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts, in addition to the complete Tutankhamun collection (over 5,000 artifacts), showing many pieces for the first time. The opening is likely to coincide with the 100th anniversary of the discovery of King Tut’s tomb. As if GEM’s opening needed anything further to entice visitors, an opera about the life of Tutankhamun, with a libretto by Dr. Zahi Hawass—the famous Egyptologist often referred to as Egypt’s own Indiana Jones—will also be presented. With multimillion-dollar fanfare, the Pharaohs’ Golden Parade—22 royal mummies (18 kings and four queens)—was moved to the brand-new National Museum of Egyptian Civilization (NEMC) in Cairo in April 2021. In their new home, the mummy wing feels like a giant crypt: as you walk along the cold, winding corridor, where the mummies— from King Ramses II to Queen Hatshepsut—now rest, an epic reminder of why this destination is truly worth the trip.—Kathryn Nathanson

TRIP TIP

Travel to Egypt Whether you’ve visited before or are hoping to return, the time is now as the country is ready to show off its newest monumental attractions. Our Penta Egypt trip in November 2023 offers exclusive access to GEM and the temples and tombs of the Valley of the Kings and Queens in Luxor, Abu Simbel, Aswân, Philae, Edfu and Kôm Ombo, as well as sailing down the Nile River aboard the Oberoi Zahra.

Contact your Trip Designer to learn more about future trips to Egypt or plan your own.

GREAT SCOT Happy 120th to the grande dame of Princes Street, The Balmoral. With a190-foot Gothic clock tower, dramatic views of Edinburgh Castle and stylish interiors by Olga Polizzi, it’s an ideal spot from which to explore the Scottish city, the other Balmoral and points beyond.—J.B. 13

Duke’s Camp.

Left: An aerial view.

Below: A leopard sighting.

DELTA PRIME

Ralph Bousfield, the owner of iconic Jack’s Camp in the Makgadikgadi Pans, has ventured into the unesco-protected Okavango Delta, opening his second safari lodge, Duke’s Camp, in northwestern Botswana. The camp is comprised of eight scalloped canvas tents (four more will be added next March). Bousfield’s playful old-world aesthetic can be seen in the Indian block print fabrics, taxidermy and leather antiques. Interiors aren’t the only aspect that transport guests to a bygone era: the stylish, unfenced lodge sits on the banks of the channel within a massive concession that has been protected by 80-year-old Sarefo “Duke’’ Sarefo (for whom the camp is named) and his forefathers of the Wayeyi tribe before him. “Guests get to enjoy great wildlife experiences with their revenues shared between influential local decision makers, communities and businesses,”says Colin Bell, co-founder of Natural Selection Safaris (and Indagare Insider Journey host). “And conservation is the winner in this remarkable region of the Okavango Delta that just ten years ago was considered marginal, and which today boasts an extraordinary array of wildlife.”—E.B.

Melissa’s Picks: My Packing Essentials

Paravel Packing Cube Quad Why I love it: “I pack clothes for day and night in the larger cubes and stash toiletries and accessories in the medium and smaller sizes.” ($65, bit.ly/paravelpackingcubes) Alexandra Knight Drawstring Pouch Why I love it: “This easy-to-pack bag keeps small electronics, cords and chargers all in one place—and within reach.” ($150, alexandraknight.com) 14

INDAGARE.COM

COURTESY DUKE’S CAMP, COURTESY NATURAL SELECTION; INDAGARE.

Indagare Carry-On Tote Why I love it: “We designed this durable canvas carry-on (left) with a waterproof interior, brass zippers and a travel sleeve to secure on a wheelie.” ($175, travel.indagare.com/tote)

SPOTLIGHT: ROSE IN BLOOM IT’S A BOLD MOVE for an American chef to relocate to France and cook French food. But Illinois native Daniel Rose (left) did it with such reverence and creativity at his Parisian bistro Spring, he’s won the adulation of even the toughest old-school critics. His first stateside project, refined French restaurant Le Coucou in New York, earned him a Michelin star and a James Beard Award. Now, he’s launching a mini American empire to spread the joie de vivre. This fall will see the debut of Café Basque in the Hoxton Hotel in downtown Los Angeles. A celebration of cuisine du soleil, or cooking from the sun (something Rose notes Southern California

and the southwest coast of France have in common), the menu is his love letter to the Pays Basque. “This region is fiercely independent and culturally and linguistically distinct from anywhere in the world,” he says. “It’s a region where the cooking is joyful, generous and uncomplicated, utilizing excellent local products from the mountains and sea and marked by the use of sweet and mildly hot peppers.” Pristine Cali seafood, such as spot prawns and Dungeness crab, will play heavily in riffs on classic Basque dishes like txangurro (stuffed crab) and ttoro (seafood soup). The bar will serve French-inspired cocktails and cider, as well as a deep selection of French and Californian wines. In mid-November, Rose will return to Chicago, opening Le Select, a brasserie run by Le Bourse chef Audrey Renninger, reigniting Americans’ appetites for French dining.—Jen Murphy

FRENCH CONNECTION These top tables across the U.S. are taking culinary cues from France.

Le Rock, New York City

L’Avant Garde, Washington, D.C.

Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson, the duo behind Tribeca’s hit bistro Frenchette, bring brasserie classics and twists to Rockefeller Center. lerocknyc.com

Gigi’s, Los Angeles

The team behind Georgetown’s trendy cocktail bar L’Annexe recently opened a sophisticated brasserie next door helmed by renowned French chef Gilles Epié, the youngest chef to receive a Michelin star at age 22 (no website at press time).

An upscale Hollywood bistro serving Cali-riffs on French fare, with luxe touches like caviar services. gigis.la

The Pinch, Charleston, S.C.

FROM TOP: COURTESY BOKA RESTAURANT GROUP; GENTL + HYERS; CHRISTINE GATTI.

Horses, Los Angeles A storied Hollywood watering hole reimagined as a refined bistro with a menu that marries SoCal and South of France flavors. horsesla.com

La Société Bar & Café, San Francisco A modern brasserie starring local produce with a deep list of French wine and Chartreuse. lasocietecafe.com

The namesake restaurant in this new downtown boutique hotel will be rooted in French fundamentals and accented by Southern ingredients. thepinch.com

Le Clou, Washington, D.C. Michelin-starred chef Nick Stefanelli’s modern twist on a traditional brasserie will anchor the dining scene at the new Morrow Hotel. themorrow hotel.com—J.M. Right, from top: Shellfish at Le Rock, NYC; La Société Bar & Café in San Francisco.

15

O N

O U R

R A DA R

The bar at Chez Zou, New York City, and below, a Dirty Zou martini.

COCKTAIL CONFIDENTIAL

Speakeasies and social clubs are popping up all over (especially in New York)—and so it seems discreet places are the places to be: At Chez Zou, the Medinfused Dirty Zou martini is served with olive-oil-washed vodka, grape leaf and Levantine cheese-stuffed olives. Maybe more than the libations, we love a good entrance: At Nothing Really Matters, enter below the 50th Street subway station on Broadway; for Key & Heels, look for a locksmith/shoe repair shop to find the door; and for Pacific Standard on Spring Street, get in through Pine & Polk Grocery.—K.N.

British journalist Graham Boynton blends his experiences in the African bush with those of Peter Beard’s in Wild: The Life of Peter Beard: Photographer, Adventurer, Lover (St. Martin’s Press), painting an epic and intimate picture of the icon.

Author Patricia Schultz (1,000 Places to Go Before You Die) is back with more essential reading: Why We Travel: 100 Reasons to See the World (Workman) offers personal anecdotes, travel hacks and words of wisdom for those seeking meaning out in the world. On the art front, African Art Now (Chronicle) showcases the vibrant work of contemporary African artists and their cultural messages in rich full-color photography, while interior designer Nicolò Castellini Baldissera and photographer Guido Taroni partner again for Inside Milan (Vendome Press) to bring fashion, art and design fanatics inside the exquisite homes and lives of Milan’s leading creatives.—Abby Sandman 16

INDAGARE.COM

FROM TOP: TEDDY WOLFF; WILD, COURTESY ST. MARTIN’S PRESS; AFRICAN ART NOW, COURTESY CHRONICLE BOOKS.

Fine Print: The Books on Our List

STOCKHOLM STYLE: SVENSKT TENN Several Indagare staffers visited Stockholm this year—and all adored Svenskt Tenn (svenskttenn.com), founded by Estrid Ericson, who enlisted artists like Josef Frank to create functional objects or striking patterns. Every stylish Swede has a Svenskt Tenn piece at home—it’s the ultimate place to find a souvenir by Swedish designers such as Frida Fjellman or Mamma Andersson, or interior designer India Mahdavi, whose recent collaboration was a “Frankly Yours” takeover of the space and two pieces. Here, shopping sprees are guilt-free: profits fund scientific research and projects to protect Swedish cultural heritage.—E.H.

Svenskt Tenn table settings.

Below: Corinthia London.

FLIGHT TRACKER

As Amazon’s Rings of Power brings Middle Earth top of mind again, Air New Zealand is launching direct service between New York’s Kennedy Airport and Auckland. The national carrier will fly between the two cities three times a week on Boeing 787 Dreamliners. Come June 2023, Qantas is following suit, with new direct service between JFK and AUK (17.5 hours) and connection to Sydney.—P.S.

INDAGARE; COURTESY CORINTHIA LONDON

On the Street: London Classic “One of my favorite streets in London is Elizabeth Street, in Belgravia. Whilst it is not a secret, it is charming and has something for everyone. I find exquisite pet accessories to treat my spaniel, Sammy, at Mungo & Maud (mungoandmaud.com). Further along is perfumery Les Senteurs (lessenteurs.com) for the ultimate gift. Lastly, Olivogelo (olivorestaurants. com/olivogelo) has a delicious blueberry frozen yogurt before a stroll in St. James’s Park.”

—THOMAS KOCHS, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF CORINTHIA LONDON

17

C U LT U R E

WATC H

FALL & WINTER PREVIEW:

Around the Art World

Because of the pandemic, many of the world’s most significant cultural productions were delayed. Now they’re roaring back. Mario R. Mercado previews the season’s highlights—from groundbreaking museum exhibitions to the hottest tickets in town.

Orange County

OCMA Expands The Segerstrom Center for the Arts, with exuberant buildings by Cesar Pelli, has a dazzling new building for the Orange County Museum of Art, designed

by Morphosis, led by Thom Mayne and Brandon Welling. The 53,000-square-foot structure has collections of modern and contemporary American and Pacific Rim art. A spacious roof terrace and a grand public staircase link the museum to the Segerstrom theaters and concert halls. “California Biennial,” a survey of emerging artists, inaugurates the museum on October 8. ocma.art.

Amsterdam

The Rijksmuseum’s landmark “Vermeer” exhibition brings together most of the known 35 works by the 17th-century Dutch master, including rare loans from collections in Dresden, Dublin, New York City and Washington, D.C., as well as the celebrated The Girl with the Pearl Earring from the Mauritshuis in the Hague. Beguiling interior scenes rendered by an unprecedented use of light depict domestic life, offering viewers a sense of the intimate—and a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. rijksmuseum.nl; February 10–June 4, 2023.

18

INDAGARE.COM

FROM TOP: JOSHUA WHITE, COURTESY OCMA; RIJKSMUSEUM.

Vermeer on View

SP OTLIGHT

NOGUCHI IN BERN Prolific designer Isamu Noguchi’s work ranges from glass-topped tables to modernist paper lanterns to landscaped gardens, set designs and props, and sculptures of geometric and biomorphic forms. In an expansive exhibition, showcasing more than 130 objects—and drawing on collections in London, Cologne and Lille, France, as well as the Isamu Noguchi Foundation in New York—the Paul Klee Zentrum in Bern pays homage to the experimental, innovative and remarkable artist. zpk. org; through May 21, 2023.

Paris

FROM TOP: NICHOLAS KNIGHT, COURTESY INFGM; DIEGO RIVERA AND FRIDA KAHLO ARCHIVES, BANK OF MÉXICO, COURTESY PALAIS GALLIERA; STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN / DAVID VON BECKER.

Fashionable Frida For the first time in France, “Frida Kahlo, Beyond Appearances” puts on display more than 200 objects belonging to the Mexican artist alongside films and photographs of her that demonstrated the way she constructed her identity and cultivated her image. This show at the Palais Galliera fashion museum also considers Kahlo’s visit to Paris and her association with the Surrealists, as well as her posthumous influence on contemporary fashion—namely Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy and Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior, among others. palaisgalliera.paris.fr; through March 5, 2023.

Berlin

Donatello Revisited Works in bronze, marble, terra-cotta and stucco by master Italian sculptor Donatello demonstrate innovations in perspectival representation and expressive portrayal, in “Donatello: Inventor of the Renaissance,” organized by Berlin’s Gemäldegalerie. The show comprises 90 works, including a first-time loan of bronze figures from the Basilica of St. Anthony in Padua. smb.museum; through August 1, 2023.

19

C U LT U R E

WATC H

Washington, D.C.

Kennedy at the White House A new permanent exhibition at the Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, “Art and Ideals: President John F. Kennedy,” features historic documents, archival video recordings and innovative technology to relate the arts to hallmarks of the Kennedy administration: culture, democracy, social change, as well as the White House. kennedy-center.org.

Charleston, S.C. On January 21, 2023, the International African American Museum will open on one of the most significant locations in the United States: a notorious slave-trading port on Charleston Harbor. Designed by Henry Cobb of Pei, Cobb, Freed & Partners, with a reflection pool and gardens by landscape architect Walter Hood, the museum has nine galleries that consider African origins and the diaspora; economic, creative and social contributions by African Americans to U.S. history; as well as slavery and its consequences. iaamuseum.org.

Sydney

Two Major Reopenings Art Gallery of New South Wales (above) reopens on December 3 after a three-year, $238 million renovation and expansion. The reimagined museum provides a showcase for Australian, including aboriginal, and Asian art. artgallery.nsw.gov. au. And the iconic Sydney Opera House complex has unveiled a renovated concert hall. Closed for two years, it has been made anew, with superb acoustics. sydneyoperahouse.com.

20

INDAGARE.COM

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ALAN KARCHMER, COURTESY THE KENNEDY CENTER; ART GALLERY OF NEW SOUTH WALES; ELLIS CREEK PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY IAAM.

IAAM OPENS

PERFORMANCES

TOP TICKETS LONDON Othello: Olivier Award winner Giles Terera (Hamilton) takes on the role of the Moor of Venice in a new staging

by Clint Dyer. The production, designed by Chloe Lamford, features Rosy McEwen as Desdemona and Paul Hilton in the role of Iago. nationaltheatre.org.uk; performances begin November 23.

The Doctor: Robert Icke’s remarkable play, loosely inspired

by Arthur Schnitzler’s Professor Bernhardi, stars Juliet Stevenson. Schnitzler’s play was an exploration of anti-Semitism, but

Icke expands it to include sexism, racism, and homophobia. thedoctorwestend.co.uk; through December 11.

Best of Enemies: James Graham’s new play, directed

by Jeremy Herrin, features Zachary Quinto and David Harewood as Gore Vidal and William F. Buckley, Jr., in a drama about the celebrated Vidal-Buckley debates during the 1968 U.S. political conventions. bestofenemiesplay.com; November 14–February 18.

Derren Brown: Showman: Whenever the mentalist and master of psychological illusion appears in London’s West End, he causes a sensation. Audiences cannot anticipate what will happen during the evening but are assured of being astounded. derrenbrown.co.uk; December 9–March 18.

SPOTLIGHT

Piano Forte: Dmytro Choni The 2022 edition of the Cliburn International Piano Competition welcomed one of the strongest fields of musicians in memory—388 pianists, from which 30 were selected to participate in Fort Worth. In a fraught year, one pianist stood out: the 28-year-old Ukrainian Dmytro Choni. A native of Kyiv, Choni is an assured artist. His playing, passionate and expressive, reveals an understanding of music rare in someone twice his age. He is a virtuoso in the full meaning of the word: virtuous. Under the aegis of the Cliburn, Choni embarks on concert tours in Hawaii (October); Hamburg (November); Paris (December); Vienna (January); Seattle and Sarasota (February). cliburn.org.

Florence

LISA-MARIE MAZZUCCO

The Renaissance’s Capital Goes Contemporary Artist Olafur Eliasson’s interest in light, color and water, and our perception of them, is on dazzling display in installations throughout the Palazzo Strozzi, the incomparable masterpiece of Renaissance architecture in Florence.

In the exhibition “In Your Time,” Eliasson draws the visitor into the midst of his creative vision. In this 500-year-old setting, the effects could not be more intriguing. palazzostrozzi.org; through January 22, 2023.

21

C U LT U R E

WATC H

SPOTLIGHT: NEW YORK CITY EXHIBITIONS

At the Guggenheim: The retrospective “Alex Katz: Gathering” celebrates the icon’s remarkable eight-decade career in New York City, where he has worked his entire life. The survey of more than 200 paintings, collages, drawings and prints includes portraiture, genre scenes of the everyday and landscapes. guggenheim.org; October 21, 2022–February 20, 2023.

At the Whitney: “Edward Hopper’s New York” considers the artist’s fascination with the emerging modern metropolis, as seen through his paintings, watercolors, prints and drawings. whitney.org; October 19, 2022– March 5, 2023.

At the New-York Historical Society: One of the most famous 22

INDAGARE.COM

Clockwise from above: Edward VI, King of England, attributed to Guillim Scrots; Hopper’s City Roofs; a thousand-year-old Maya whistle; Chicago’s Vienna Beef factory.

lines of American cinema lends its name to “‘I’ll Have What She’s Having’: The Jewish Deli,” a captivating exploration of the Jewish immigrant experience. The exhibition considers the food of immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and notably the deli’s heyday during the 1930s— when 3,000 delis operated in the city. nyhistory.org; November 11, 2022–April 2, 2023.

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP: JAMIE WOODLEY, COURTESY COMPTON VERNEY ART GALLERY AND PARK; HEIRS OF JOSEPHINE N. HOPPER/LICENSED BY ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK; THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART, NEW YORK; NEW YORK HISTORICAL SOCIETY MUSEUM & LIBRARY.

At the Met: Alongside tapestries, suits of armor and regal costume, “The Tudors: Art and Majesty in Renaissance England” reveals in royal splendor the cosmopolitan tastes of the monarchs: Florentine sculptors, Flemish weavers, German painters (October 10, 2022–January 8, 2023). And “Lives of the Gods: Divinity in Maya Art” charts the course of the Mesoamerican culture and its deities, from infancy to adulthood and, in some cases, rebirth (November 21, 2022–April 2, 2023). metmuseum.org.

Paul Taylor Dance Company’s Devon Louis and Madelyn Ho in Arden Court.

PERFORMANCES

A FORCE OF SOPRANOS

PAOLA KUDACKI / MET OPERA; RUVEN AFANADOR; AHRON R. FOSTER / ARDEN COURT; MANUEL HARLAN / THE BRIDGE THEATER.

All eyes will be on the Metropolitan Opera this season when sopranos Renée Fleming, Kelli O’Hara and Joyce DiDonato take centerstage in the world premiere of The Hours

by Kevin Puts, with a libretto by Greg Pierce that is based on the Pulitzer Prize–winning novel

by Michael Cunningham.

An incredible cast for a thought-provoking work about art, memory and grief. November 22­–December 15, 2022; metopera.org.

DANCE This season at New York City Ballet, look for new works from choreographers Justin Peck, Kyle Abraham and up-and-comer Gianna Reisen, whose ballet is set to a score by Solange Knowles (nycballet.com). For the first time since fall 2019, the Paul Taylor Dance Company returns to Lincoln Center with repertoire favorites and two premieres (ptdc.org; November 1–13). Felice Lesser Dance Theater presents the premiere of Trap Ist, a provocative dance-video-interactive technology work at New York Live Arts (newyorklivearts.org; December 1–3).

THEATER August Wilson’s Pulitzer Prize–winning play The Piano Lesson returns in a production starring Samuel L. Jackson, Danielle Brooks and John David Washington (pianolessonplay.com; through Jan. 15). In Kimberly Akimbo, Victoria Clark brings beguiling characterization to her role as a bright, witty New Jersey teenager who happens to look like a 72-year-old lady (kimberlyakimbothemusical.com; now playing). After an acclaimed London run, Ralph Fiennes (left) reprises his role as “power broker” Robert Moses in Straight Line Crazy (theshed.org; through December 18). In & Juliet, Shakespeare’s wife Anne Hathaway challenges the playwright to revise the ending of Romeo & Juliet (andjulietbroadway.com; previews begin Oct. 28).

23

S P OT L I G H T

ROME REVIVAL A new generation of hotels, restaurants and attractions are transforming the Eternal City. Elizabeth Harvey reports.

IN THE RISORGIMENTO OF post-pandemic travel, Italy has proudly reclaimed its spot as a ruling force in the pantheon of top destinations. I made an early return last fall, when testing was still required and crowds were sparse, for a grand tour from Sicily to Milan (and I found myself moved to tears on numerous occasions). This summer, Indagare members flocked to the beaches of the Amalfi Coast, Puglia and Ischia, and to the northern lakes of Como and Garda, to delight in sunshine, spritzes and sailing.

It’s impossible to choose a favorite destination in Italy. Florence is luscious and proud; Venice is a daydream brought to life; Taormina is fiercely colorful; Capri is the apotheosis of romance. But it is perhaps only Rome that manages to capture all of the country’s charms in one place. It is the city that burns bright in our imagination: Audrey Hepburn flying through narrow streets on a Vespa; Anita Ekberg striding in a long black gown into the Trevi Fountain at twilight; Russell Crowe raising his fists against the bloodstained sands of the gladiator arena; Matt Damon surveying the ruins of the Forum after the murder of Dickie Greenleaf (Jude Law); Julia Roberts indulging in a euphoric plate of pasta. Rome’s delights and the icons they inspire are eternal—but at this

24

INDAGARE.COM

moment, a contemporary generation of new hotels, restaurants and exhibitions are seizing the city and taking the stage.

Where to Stay Nearly a dozen major luxury hotels are scheduled to open throughout Rome in the next few years. The most eagerly anticipated property set to welcome guests in early 2023 is the Six Senses, the brand’s first hotel in Italy, housed within a UNESCO-protected, 18th-century Baroque palazzo on the Piazza di San Marcello, just steps from the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon. Designed by the Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola, the Six Senses will have 96 guest rooms and suites, an open-kitchen trattoria and bar, a botanical garden and a rooftop terrace with spectacular 360-degree views. And certo, there will be a destination spa, inspired by the ancient Roman baths. The other headliners, scheduled for 2023 and 2024 debuts, respectively, and likewise centrally located, are the Bulgari Hotel Roma and the Rosewood Rome. The Bulgari will celebrate the fashion house’s connection to the city (it was founded here in 1884) within a 1930s Modernist building just minutes from the flagship atelier on Via Condotti; highlights will include a restaurant

by Michelin-grade chef Niko Romito and rotating exhibitions of both antique and contemporary art. The

Rosewood will span three historic buildings, including a former bank headquarters; experiences are being curated for it around the Roman concept of il dolce far niente—the art of doing nothing. Other newcomers of note include the Rome EDITION, bringing Ian Schrager’s signature cool factor (and signature scent) to Italy for the first time, along with treats like a rooftop pool and the Punch Room bar for craft cocktails; Nobu Roma, which will transform the current Grand Hotel Via Veneto into a sleek locale with a Nobu restaurant; the Corinthia Rome, occupying a restored 19th-century building on Parliament Square; the InterContinental Rome Ambasciatori Palace, which was first built in 1900 to host ambassadors and later served as the American Embassy Library—and will now house an outpost of New York’s Scarpetta restaurant; The Pavilions Rome, The First Musica, a boutique hotel along the banks of the Tiber with prime views; and Rome footholds for the Hoxton and the W, both open now and both must-visits for their colorful, lively atmospheres and buzzy dining and cocktail venues.

Plus: The Palazzo Naiadi Hotel on the Piazza della Repubblica is being refurbished by Anantara, bringing new life—and culinary- and wellness-focused amenities—to a striking landmark: in addition to preserving architectural elements commissioned

LAETITIA BOURGEOIX, COURTESY INDAGARE.

A Roman Holiday-style Vespa ride on a 2019 Insider Journey to Rome with Vogue.

25

S P OT L I G H T

Where to Eat Traditional, family-owned, no-fuss trattorias will always be what distinguishes Italian cities’ restaurant scenes from those in other foodie favorites around the world, and no trip to Rome is complete without a taste of classic plates like bucatini all’amatriciana, cacio e pepe, fried artichokes, pizza al taglio, trapizzino sandwiches and, yes, tripe. But for a sprinkle of new-age variety to enliven your gastronomic journey (and you could fill an entire itinerary just with reservations), Rome has recently welcomed a parade of inventive,

plant-based eateries; craft-beer and natural-wine bars; and collaborations highlighting Nordic, Central American and Japanese influences.

A few names to know: Pulejo, the first venture from chef Davide Puleio, who hails from Rome and previously worked at Noma in Copenhagen and L’Alchimia in Milan; Carter Oblio, a New Nordic–inspired creation by chef Ciro Alberto Cucciniello, featuring a simple but effective menu of twists on typical dishes from throughout Italy as well as the Mediterranean; and Romanè, the first restaurant from Stefano Callegari, the alleged inventor of the aforementioned trapizzini, located on Via Cipro (the menu will champion Roman staples, not just the sandwich, in a cheery space decorated by a gallery of ceramic plates).

Insider Spotlight: Soledad Twombly The designer behind the Indagare-adored fashion, décor and textiles atelier L’Archivio di Monserrato (an obligatory stop on our fashion-focused Rome Insider Journey with Vogue) shares her favorite places in the city right now.

SHOP: “I am lucky to live and work in Via Monserrato, where the shops are filled with high-end and unique pieces. Just to name a few: Master Fabio Salini is a very talented jeweler just across from my store. Also, artist Gilbert Halaby has his painting and sculpture studio nearby, and his boutique of amazing handmade bags.

Chez Dede has unique home furnishings, rare objects and books—all curated marvelously. Flower designer Dylan Tripp is one block away, and he makes the best decorations for any event—and he is right next to the contemporary jewelry designer Delfina Delettrez.” EAT & DRINK: “I like having a bite at the terrace of the Hotel de la Ville or Hotel

26

INDAGARE.COM

Locarno. There is a nice bar on Via Giulia called Giulia that offers good cocktails, and right on Via Monserrato is Josephine, a small Champagne and wine bar with exquisite cheeses from all over France.” BE INSPIRED: “I recently enjoyed Setsuko’s exhibition ‘Into the Trees II’ at Gagosian Rome and the Ludovisi statue collection at the Palazzo Altemps Museum.” WHY GO NOW: “Rome had a tough lockdown—but in all crises, there is room for creation, and this is what came out in our community of artisans: more unique pieces than you can find anywhere else in the world.

And the usual travelers with great taste started arriving again and have spread the word of our little miracles.”

Follow Soledad: @soledad.twombly

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: SIX SENSES; ALEX MERREL, COURTESY SOLEDAD TWOMBLY; ALESSANDRO BARATTELLI, COURTESY PULEJO; HOTEL EDEN, THE DORCHESTER COLLECTION; COURTESY SOLEDAD TWOMBLY. .

by Pope Clement XI for the Vatican in 1705, the palazzo also sits above the ancient Diocletian Thermal Baths, whose pools and mosaics can be seen through the floor.

For anything from a glass of wine to a multicourse tasting menu, check out: Enoteca Quartino, a modern wine bar with over 2,000 labels that spotlight small-production organic vineyards alongside the biggest Tuscan estates; 53 Untitled, a female-owned, sustainability-focused take on the tapas bar, through a Roman lens; Almatò, a minimalist gem offering five- and seven-course seatings at reasonable prices, in the up-and-coming Prati neighborhood; and Bottega Tredici, a cozy spot created by three friends whose casual atmosphere belies the elegance of its food. And for a fun night out, Don Pasquale at the new Maalot Hotel and Club Cecconi’s at the new Soho House Rome are two addresses of note (the latter is open to Soho House members and their guests only).

Via della Lupa.

Clockwise from above: The rooftop terrace at Six Senses Rome; L’Archivio di Monserrato; elemental cuisine at Pulejo.

Inset left: Soledad Twombly.

27

S P OT L I G H T

Where to Explore This summer, the Museo dell’Arte Salvata opened to showcase the excellent craftsmanship of the nation’s master restorers—and to draw attention to the ongoing global effort to discover, save and return stolen art and artifacts to their countries of origin (in this case, Italy).

The museum will host a series of ever-changing exhibitions that are the direct results of current investigations by the Italian government to find treasures that have been lost, taken or damaged by natural or political events, with recovered pieces eventually moving on to their forever homes in-country; it has been reported that the inaugural

28

INDAGARE.COM

exhibition (on through October 15) features hundreds of pieces that were reclaimed from the United States— where they were found in museums, auction-house holdings and private collections. Another significant summer opening was the Biblioteca e Museo della Cucina near Palatine Hill, the first museum in Rome dedicated to the history of Italian cuisine.

It centers around a collection of rare Italian cookbooks, as well as cooking tools, spanning five centuries, and includes a copy of the first cookbook ever mass-printed (in 1474) and a first edition of the Bible of Italian cuisine: Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well by Pellegrino Artusi (1891). A major Van Gogh exhibition

EMANUELE ANTONIO MINERVA, AGNESE SBAFFI © MINISTERO DELLA CULTURA, COURTESY MUSEO DELL’ARTE SALVATA. OPPOSITE: THE PAVILIONS ROME, THE FIRST MUSICA; SIX SENSES; GIULIA VENANZI, COURTESY SOHO HOUSE.

Orpheus and the Sirens at the Museo dell’Arte Salvata. Clockwise from far left: An Aperol Spritz at The Pavilions Rome, The First Musica; a guest room at the Six Senses Rome; rooftop views at Soho House.

will open at the Palazzo Bonaparte (the former home of Napoleon’s mother) on October 8, while “Picasso Va, Picasso Arriva” is on at the Jean Nouvel–designed Rhinoceros Gallery at Fondazione Alda Fendi through October 16, including a painting that has never been shown in Rome before (on loan from the Hermitage in St. Petersburg). Contemporary art lovers should not miss the exhibition “CRAZY” at Chiostro del Bramante (on through Jan. 8, 2023), featuring the work of 21 international artists (with 11 vibrant, site-specific installations)—nor should they miss a trip to MAXXI, the National Museum of XXI Century Arts, which was designed by Zaha Hadid. Here, guests staying at the Indagare Index–listed Hotel Eden, a Dorchester Collection property can explore the underground vaults of the museum, which are closed to the public, with art history and conservation experts, on a limited-edition tour. Also at the Hotel Eden is “The Rebel and Rome Trail,” a guided walking tour that traces the revolutionary life, secrets and artistic inspiration of 17th-century painter Caravaggio. And whether you favor chiaroscuro or not, no traveler can leave without paying a visit to the Galleria Borghese—which holds six paintings by Caravaggio, making it the largest gathering of his works in the world.

LET US DESIGN YOUR NEXT TRIP TO ROME Indagare can help you craft the ideal itinerary: contact a Trip Designer at 212-988-2611 or visit Indagare.com.

29

S T Y L E

PARIS SHOPPING Melissa Biggs Bradley shares her go-to places in the City of Light for finding the perfect present, for someone back home—or even yourself.

For Fashion Lovers The statement scarves and wraps at Wolff & Descourtis are like works of art, made in colorful silks and wools. 18 Galerie Vivienne, 2nd arr.; wolffetdescourtis.com.

Cie Bracelet Montre carries watchbands in bold racing stripes along with an array of leather straps (even for Apple watches). 25 Rue du Dragon, 6th arr.; cie-bracelet-montre.com. At Thomasine, expect divine soft leather gloves—wearable art that has turned up on the runways of Schiaparelli and Balmain. 23 Galerie Véro-Dodat, 1st arr.; thomasinegloves.com.

For Foodies Create your own assortment of tea sachets, packaged in little leather cases or stylish boxes, at Dammann Frères.

15 Place des Vosges, 4th arr.; dammann. fr. Choose from delicious dark chocolate, pralines and almond roc’s, ganache or citrus and coffee biscuits at Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse, 26 Rue Saint-Benoit, 6th arr.; lechocolat-alainducasse.com. The retro tins of rare salts, peppers, herbs, spices and curries liven up any kitchen at La Compagnie Française des Poivres et des Épices. 7 Rue de Furstenberg, 6th arr.; frenchspices.com.

30

INDAGARE.COM

For Homebodies Hand-sewn notebooks with fun prints are must-haves at Antoinette Poisson, named after Madame de Pompadour. 12 Rue Saint Sabin, 11th arr.; antoinettepoisson.com.

Exquisite, engraved notecards set a sophisticated tone, as do the leather calling card cases, at Benneton Graveur. 75 Boulevard Malesherbes, 8th arr.; bennetongraveur. com. Candles made in Normandy at Cire Trudon have their own scents of place—inspired by Moroccan mint tea, misty Scottish meadows, the Med and more. 9 Rue de la Monnaie, 1st arr.; trudon.com. Curiosities abound at Deyrolle, where one-of-a-kind colorful butterflies and iridescent beetles under glass feel like museum treasures. 46 Rue de Bac, 7th arr.; deyrolle.com. Limoges porcelain pieces and other home accessories are hand-monogrammed at Alix D. Reynis; vermeil and gold jewelry is also crafted in the workshop. 22 Rue Jacob, 6th arr.; alixdreynis.com. Marin Montagut showcases whimsical porcelain objets and hand-painted glassware, along with watercolor palettes, drawing books and cards for stocking gifts. 48 Rue Madame, 6th arr.; marinmontagut.com.

Pleasures of Paris, clockwise from above: Marin Montagut; hand-sewn notebooks at Antoinette Poisson; spices from La Compagnie Française des Poivres et des Épices; Seine sunset; porcelain boîte à bijoux at Alix D. Reynis.

For Sensualists

By Terry stocks amazing makeup and skincare products, including its best-selling Brightening CC Serum and Hyaluronic Hydra Powder. 21 Galerie Véro-Dodat, 1st arr.; byterry.com. Known for its luxurious beauty products with personalized packaging, Officine Buly is the ultimate Parisian apothecary—and it’s great for soaps, lotions and one-of-a-kind fragrances. 6 Rue Bonaparte, 6th arr.; buly1803.com.

LET US DESIGN YOUR NEXT TRIP TO PARIS Indagare can help you craft the ideal itinerary: contact a Trip Designer at 212-9882611 or visit Indagare.com

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: ROMAIN RICARD; ATELIER MAI 98; TK FROM SL; INDAGARE; COURTESY ALIX D. REYNIS.

MY FAVORITE PRESENTS TO GIVE are those that the recipient cannot easily get themselves. Especially when it means being able to surprise someone with a special treasure they have never seen before. Here are some of my discoveries from shops that are also wonderful places to visit, thanks to the way they obsessively craft (or curate) one item with the utmost attention.

31

PHOTO CREDIT TKT

E ASY

I T I N E R A RY

THE MAGIC OF SINTRA With its fairy-tale castles and an alluring blend of Gothic, Egyptian, Moorish and Renaissance history, Sintra should be more than just a day trip from Lisbon.

Abby Sandman crafts the ultimate itinerary.

THE LIMESTONE GROWS SLICK beneath my fingers as we wind down, down, down… and the moss that clings to the cascading neo-Gothic archways glows in an emerald haze as the air chills and thickens deep inside the well of Quinta da Regaleira, an eccentric 16th-century estate just outside Lisbon. While descending into the inverted tower of this UNESCO World Heritage site (meant to symbolize the nine circles of Dante’s Inferno), it becomes perfectly plain that it was not designed to be a well at all. A ceremonial gateway to a labyrinth of tunnels beneath, this is a hidden passageway to a spiritual place, rumored to be used for initiations to the Knights Templar. The myth of this site weighs heavy as we reach the distinctive Templar Cross intertwined with tiles at the base of the well, a symbol of the Freemasons’ doctrine—although no one can say for sure whether the property’s owner was himself a Freemason or simply fascinated by the occult. Sintra is full of stories like this one—secret histories and myths and castles and palaces, all enveloped in a verdant wonderland of feathery ferns, desert flowers and forests. Snapshots of Portugal’s history emerge amid the mountaintops: ruins of eighth-century battlements from the Moorish period, scarlet turrets of a 19th-century Romantic palace and the dramatic spires of a neo-Gothic manor house—all paired with Michelin-starred restaurants, luxurious hotel accommodations and mild weather year-round— make it an essential addition to any Lisbon trip. For more on Portugal, see p. 74

TRIP TIPS GETTING THERE: 40 minutes by car from Humberto Delgado Airport and Lisbon center. Trains run from Lisbon’s Rossio Station (~35-minute ride).

just 30 rooms. Families and those seeking resort amenities should book the lovely Penha Longa Resort, hidden away in SintraCascais National Park.

GETTING AROUND: Travelers can hire a car or taxi or Uber in Sintra or rent a car at the airport.

EAT: Restaurant o Croa is a neighborhood spot and local favorite. Don’t expect anything fancy, but the seafood is phenomenal and the patio has ocean views.

STAY: Tivoli Palácio de Seteais is the classic historic choice and has

32

INDAGARE.COM

Beyond Lisbon, clockwise from below: The Palace of Monserrate; golf course view at Penha Longa Resort; garden statuary at Quinta da Regaleira.

ITINERARY

Sintra in Three Days DAY 1: GET YOUR BEARINGS Arrive early to avoid the crowds at Pena Palace and its spectacular gardens. A blend of Moorish, Gothic and Manueline architecture, the red and yellow crenellated towers of this eclectic palace are visible for miles and magnificent to behold up close, surrounded by flowers and plants from every continent as well as winding pathways, especially in warmer months. After lunch, head back to your hotel for some relaxation and to take in the views. Try Basque cuisine at Penha Longa Resort’s new Eneko Lisboa, a Michelin-starred restaurant headed by chef Eneko Axta, whose restaurants have earned six Michelin stars.

PHOTO CREDITFROM CLOCKWISE, TKT LEFT: ABBY SANDMAN; PENHA LONGA RESORT; ABBY SANDMAN.

DAY 2: HISTORY LESSONS Head to Quinta da Regaleira, the neo-Gothic masterpiece tucked into the side of a mountain overlooking Sintra’s historic downtown. This sprawling early-20th-century property is rich with secrets and stories, with symbols of heaven and hell, birth and death hidden throughout. Tunnels and mystical pools lurk underground while spiraling towers and an intricate manor house dominate above.

Head deeper into the mountains to the secluded Park and Palace of Monserrate, with its intoxicating mix of Romantic, neo-Gothic and Islamic

architecture and mesmerizing carvings depicting exotic flora and fauna. The serpentine paths of the park are equally magical, especially in the spring when flowers are in full bloom. From there, head to a late seaside lunch of fresh seafood at Restaurant o Croa. Whether you are guests or not, take part of the afternoon to wander the grounds of Tivoli Palácio Seteais, an 18th-century palace turned hotel, before enjoying dinner at the Seteais restaurant on the grounds.

DAY 3: HIKING HIGHLIGHTS Hike the trails through Sintra National Park to the mountaintop ruins of the Moorish castle above Sintra, where you can explore winding stone walls, eighth-century battlements and towers—as well as sweeping views of Sintra and the Pena Palace. On the way down, follow the path toward Pena Palace and visit the beautiful Mediterranean Villa Sassetti. After the hike, have lunch at Restaurant Piscina Azenhas do Mar before heading into Sintra’s historic downtown to wander around (or tour) the National Palace of Sintra.

Grab a tasty snack at Casa Piriquito, best known for their queijadas (sweet cheese biscuits) and travesseiros en quijidas (puff pastries with eggs and almond cream). For a farewell meal, enjoy dinner at LAB, which received its first Michelin star this year.

33

Discovery. Insights. Community. The way we travel may

curated itineraries offer unforgettable experiences on the

have changed, but these core elements of our inside-

ground, with fewer crowds and deeper immersion in places

access, small-group trips haven’t. Our journeys celebrate

both wild and dazzling. Whether on expeditions to remote

the beauty of pursuing passions and making discoveries

atolls in Indonesia and Antarctica’s ice fields, or on grand

while seeing the world together. In this ever-shifting

tours of cultural treasure troves like India, Egypt, France

travel landscape, it’s more valuable than ever to have a

and Italy, our travelers always return home with lasting

team of experts—and local hosts—to guide you, as well as

friendships, fresh perspectives and renewed curiosity. We

new friends and connections with whom to explore. Our

hope you’ll join us in 2023 on an Insider Journey.

34

INDAGARE.COM

CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE: INDAGARE; THE BEVERLY HILLS HOTEL; INDAGARE; INDAGARE.

2023

Where We’re Going in 2023

Explore a few highlights from our calendar by interest—from trailblazing new itineraries hosted by our founder Melissa Biggs Bradley to our most iconic group trips, conveniently packaged with set dates and our favorite local guides.

ART & HISTORY Los Angeles with the Institute of Classical Architecture & Art February 26 – March 1, 2023 | Hosted by Andrea Feldman Falcione Los Angeles has always been a crucible for contemporary ideas in the arts and design, attracting cultural heavyweights with its seaside and desert backdrops—but now it’s in super bloom. Along with the Institute of Classical Architecture & Art, you’ll experience this dynamic revival with privileged invitations into some of the most spectacular private estates and collections of preeminent figures from the art, architecture and film worlds—including your host Andrea Feldman Falcione, one of L.A.’s best-connected art consultants.

Masterpieces of Spain March 14 – 21, 2023 | Hosted by Page Knox This trip to Madrid, Córdoba, Granada and Seville—led by art historian, Met lecturer and cult-favorite host Page Knox—will take a deep dive into Spain’s many artistic, architectural and cultural masterpieces, with privileged entrance into the country’s most significant palaces, UNESCO sites and museums, as well as invitations into private homes that hold some of the country’s most sought-after collections. Throughout, you’ll discover why Spain has uniquely enchanted and inspired history’s greatest creatives, from Velázquez, El Greco and Goya to Picasso, Hemingway and Dalí.

Vienna Revealed Fall 2023 | Details to be announced Amid its stately Baroque and neo-Gothic palaces, cathedrals and museums, Austria’s capital is alive with grand hotels, chic restaurants and coffee houses and a vibrant design, music and fashion scene. Like Paris and Berlin, Vienna is also a place where no matter how many times you visit, there are always new discoveries to be made and new favorites to be found.

Our itinerary will open doors to exclusive experiences and meetings with the designers and curators who are bringing the city’s rich past into the post-pandemic era.

LEA R N MOR E A ND BOOK NOW: INDAGA R E.COM/INSIDER JOUR NEYS

35

“There are so many places I want to see, and I love the idea that I can just pick up and go with a friend for a week and experience them with other amazing people. I also love the unique access you provide.”

– A T R AV E L E R O N T H E S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 2 I N S I D E R J O U R N E Y T O T H E D O L O M I T E S

“I enjoyed going from house party to house party and the generosity of our hosts.

Each owner (with their kitchen staff) really showed their personalities. It was an insightful experience that was so fun.”

— A T R AV E L E R O N T H E M AY 2 0 2 2 I N S I D E R J O U R N E Y T O TA N G I E R

“I did not know anyone who had traveled to Slovenia, so we did not know what to expect. It was like we were in a ‘fairy tale...’”

— A T R AV E L E R O N T H E M AY 2 0 2 2 I N S I D E R J O U R N E Y T O S L OV E N I A

36

INDAGARE.COM

INDAGARE

2023

37

OUTDOOR ADVENTURE Lech Ski Trip with SNOW Magazine March 19 – 24, 2023 | Hosted by Lisa Baker The cradle of Alpine skiing, the Arlberg mountain range is one of the most sought-after ski destinations in the world. It is also home to the largest connected ski resort in Austria. This powder-packed Insider Journey will be based in Lech, in the company of SNOW Magazine representative Lisa Baker, as well as world-class skiers, mountaineers and local guides Mike Perl and Nina Gigele, who will coach you on daily skiing or snowboarding sessions down epic slopes to après-ski.

Zimbabwe Rewilded June 3 – 14, 2023 | Hosted by Melissa Biggs Bradley and Great Plains Conservation’s James Currie High-school-sweethearts-turned-conservation-power-couple Dereck and Beverly Joubert are some of the safari world’s most remarkable environmentalists. Project ReWild Zambezi in Zimbabwe, their latest effort, will be the largest wildlife relocation in southern Africa’s history. This Insider Journey, created with their foundation Great Plains, will bring exclusive access to witness this historic relocation first-hand—with the chance to get involved, while on safari at top lodges in some of Africa’s finest private concessions.

38

INDAGARE.COM

QUESTIONS? EM A IL OUR TEA M: INSIDER JOUR NEYS@INDAGA R E.COM

FROM TOP: DANIEL ZANGERL; INDAGARE; INDAGARE.

Magic of Bhutan March 22 – 31, 2023 | Details to be announced At the foot of the Himalayas, Bhutan has remained isolated from the modern world for centuries. It is home to fascinating cultures (it claims to be the happiest country on earth) and landscapes that are truly wild (it is the only country that is carbon-negative). Discover this captivating place with daily hikes through rural towns and lush forests, as you make your way to the Tiger’s Nest and relax at incredible Six Senses lodges. Along the way, visit monasteries and farmhouses, where you will be welcomed for meals, meditations and more.

STYLE & DESIGN

2023

Inside Mexico City & San Miguel with Architectural Digest February 12 - 17 & February 21 - 26, 2023 Mexico’s colorful metropolis has shot to the top of every design lover’s list, with one of the highest concentrations of museums and galleries in the world, an innovative food scene and a profusion of chic shops and hotels.

Just a few hours away, the colonial town of San Miguel de Allende provides the perfect contrast to Mexico City’s action, with its charming heritage architecture and artisan studios. Sample the best of both with behind-thescenes access and events at homes featured in the pages of AD.

FROM TOP: INDAGARE; INDAGARE; COURTESY GREAT PLAINS CONSERVATION.

Inside Marrakech & Tangier with Architectural Digest May 8 - 13 & May 15 -20, 2023 The white-walled city of Tangier—known as “the Door of Africa”—has long been cloaked in romance and mystery, while Marrakech remains iconic, exotic and glamorous. Both cities’ greatest charms are hidden behind closed doors, in private preserves belonging to longtime residents and newer habitués. You’ll meet these artists and architects from Indagare and Architectural Digest’s combined networks for a true understanding of Moroccan craftsmanship—along with curated architecture and culture tours and guided shopping in the souks.

A Fashion Lover’s Paris & Milan with Vogue March & October 2023 | Details to be announced Indagare has partnered with Vogue—the first and last word in fashion—to give you unmatched entrée to the world’s style capitals. Our Paris and Milan fashion-focused itineraries will connect you with designers, editors and historians and go behind the scenes in the archives and ateliers of legendary houses, from Dior to Prada, to discover new talents and their inspirations. These are musts for fashion lovers.

LEA R N MOR E A ND BOOK NOW: INDAGA R E.COM/INSIDER JOUR NEYS

39

EXPLORE MORE Discover Slovenia May 14 – 19, 2023 One of Europe’s greatest treasures, Slovenia has somehow managed to remain rather under-the-radar. Only the most sophisticated travelers know that the destination has helped set the gold standard for sustainable tourism—and that it is home to an exceptional wine-growing region, miles of gorgeous alpine trails and glacial lakes, fairy tale-worthy castles and charming cobblestoned cities offering cutting-edge food and design.

With our connections, you can experience these highlights and more in the company of Slovenia’s most plugged-in tastemakers.

Expedition to Kilimanjaro September 25 – October 3, 2023 The world’s tallest freestanding mountain, Mount Kilimanjaro lures adventurers, thrill-seekers and climbers to Tanzania to summit its peak.

A physically and mentally challenging excursion, the trip is a once-in-alifetime experience, where each step can lead to a new discovery, and the journey is as inspiring as the destination. On this special group trip, you can check this adventure off your bucket list, with a team of local guides, porters and VIP camping services and safety equipment. Our experts have your back—on the way up, and down!

INDAGARE

COMING SOON: 2023 Botswana. Turkey. Saudi Arabia. Mongolia. Belgium.

Florence. England. Chile. Where are we going next?

Our team is busy crafting fantastic new trips. To be the first to receive the itineraries, email us at insiderjourneys@indagare.com or visit travel.indagare.com/first.

Plus: To customize any of these experiences for your own private adventure, contact us.

40

INDAGARE.COM

“The trip gave us access to unforgettable experiences. Western Mongolia in particular will stay with me. The ability to spend time with nomadic cultures in a way that felt more like cultural exchange than cultural tourism was really special.”

PHOTO CREDIT TKT

— A T R AV E L E R O N T H E A U G U S T 2 0 2 2 I N S I D E R J O U R N E Y T O M O N G O L I A

LEA R N MOR E A ND BOOK NOW: INDAGA R E.COM/INSIDER JOUR NEYS

41

I N DAGA R E

I M PAC T

MAKING AN IMPACT Indagare Impact is reshaping how your travels can positively help transform a destination—and its communities.

SINCE 2007, INDAGARE’S MISSION has been to inspire and empower people to change their lives—and the world—through travel. Over the past 15 years, our commitment to that mission has deepened, because we know that the impact we have on the world when we travel can—and must—make the world a better place for future generations.

footprint from member travels. Our target: become carbon neutral by the end of 2023. To get there, we’ve partnered with Sustainable Travel International to provide funding for important offsetting projects around the world. Examples include reforestation in the Amazon and community development in Asia, particularly surrounding efficient cookware.

Indagare Impact, launched on Earth Day in 2021, formalized these ongoing initiatives at a time when the world was reopening. Post-pandemic, travelers are actively seeking ways to make their trips more meaningful. Here’s how we’re making that happen:

JOIN AN IMPACT JOURNEY All of our Insider Journeys incorporate at least one of our Impact pillars, be it from meeting with the leaders of cultural preservation foundations in Jordan and Saudi Arabia to participating in environmental education and conservation programs in the Galápagos and Botswana.

Some trips, however, go the extra mile, and are devoted to regenerative travel. In 2023, we’ll be leading Impact Journeys to the Amazon, Zimbabwe and beyond, with details coming soon. Learn more at indagare.com/ insiderjourneys.

OUR IMPACT PILLARS Community: When we send people out into the world, Indagare vets our partners carefully to ensure that we can promote the long-term sustainability and development of the local communities we visit, empowering women and elevating marginalized peoples by providing the resources to create self-sustaining solutions to the issues they face.

Heritage: Many destinations are at risk of losing their valuable cultural and natural heritages due to overdevelopment, as well as overtourism and poor tourism practices. Indagare believes in preserving longheld customs and architectural wonders and protecting the autonomy of local culture for the future.

Environment: In the midst of a rapidly changing climate, every effort to preserve our planet counts—from protecting and conserving wildlife to ensuring carbon neutrality and zero waste—and we are dedicated to helping our members do the same during their travels by promoting hotels and travel partners who prioritize minimizing their footprint.

WE’RE GOING CARBON NEUTRAL Indagare’s emission sources include a small carbon footprint from staff operations, plus a larger carbon

42

INDAGARE.COM

A GLOBAL EFFORT, WITH LOCAL IMPACT We’re not in it alone. Indagare has partnered with companies such as Mandarin Oriental and Wilderness Safaris to help expand our reach. With Wilderness and its philanthropic arm Wilderness Trust, we’re contributing to Long Shields Lion Guardians, a project that protects lions and locals (and their livestock) in Zimbabwe. Safari reserves and national parks offer havens for lions, but whenever the animals wander outside the boundaries of national parks, they can face—and cause—major challenges when they interact with local farming communities.

The Long Shields Lion Guardians program trains its namesake “guardians” in livestock protection methods, data collection and monitoring, along with methods to track and deter lions from nearby farms. So far, and with the help of Indagare’s funding, it has helped educate more than 800 Zimbabwean farmers.

IMPACT MILESTONES Indagare is set to surpass our 2022 company goal of becoming 45 percent carbon neutral—and are well on our way to becoming fully carbon neutral by 2024.

50+ percent predicted 2022 carbon emissions offset (18 percent 2021 offset)

PHOTO CREDIT INDAGARE; WILDCRU TKT / LONG SHIELDS LION GUARDIANS; INDAGARE; INDAGARE.

$360,000 donated to Long Shields Lion Guardians over a three-year period

Clockwise from above left: A lemur in Madagascar; a woman from the Long Shields Lion Guardian program; sunset in Costa Rica; a walrus in Svalbard, Norway.

43

G LO B A L

E X P E R I E N C E S

Mii amo’s relaxation lounge.

Above, from left: Shooting in Venice; Melissa Biggs Bradley at the SiriusXM studio, NYC.

Mii amo’s relaxation lounge.

Above, from left: Shooting in Venice; Melissa Biggs Bradley at the SiriusXM studio, NYC.

Indagare Global Experiences NEW RADIO SHOW & PODCAST: We have teamed up with SiriusXM for Passport to Everywhere, a weekly radio show and podcast hosted by Melissa Biggs Bradley, that launched in September. Every episode includes intel on navigating today’s travel landscape, as well as interviews with inspiring people Melissa met on the road, including hotel legends and industry trailblazers. Firstseason guests include: chef Massimo Bottura, Jayne Poytner of Space Perspective and the International African Art Museum’s Dr. Tonya Matthews. Tune into SiriusXM Business Radio (channel 132) on Thursdays at 12:00 pm et or wherever you download podcasts.

INDAGARE PRODUCTIONS: We’ve partnered with some of our favorite

dsafjhdkfhjkshkjh

resorts and brands including Mii amo and Belmond’s Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, as well as destinations from Sweden to Saudi Arabia to transport you back to places you love—or inspire future adventures. These immersive programs will be broadcast to Indagare members in the coming months.

Keep an eye on indagare.com for details.

BANK OF AMERICA PARTNERSHIP: Indagare was recently selected as Bank of America’s travel partner servicing its Diamond Honors Tier members. Which means the Global Experience team is now producing and airing live, on-location Virtual Experiences from Jordan, Egypt, Venice, Mexico, Napa and beyond, available exclusively for Diamond Honors Tier clients.

Virtual Sweden: Don’t miss this season’s virtual programming: Tour of Gustav III’s Pavilion (October 26); Behind the Scenes at Sweden’s Famous Icehotel (November 17); Traditional Swedish Cinnamon Bun Baking with Vaxholm Bed and Breakfast (December 6). RSVP at travel.indagare.com/sweden.

44

INDAGARE.COM

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: INDAGARE; INDAGARE; MII AMO.

BEHIND THE SCENES:

Host Page Knox in Lake Como. Below: Gardens at Villa d’Este.

An Insider’s Italy

COURTESY PAGE KNOWX; INDAGARE

Page Knox, Indagare’s popular Indagare Club host (soon leading an Insider Journey to Spain), shares her favorite hidden gems across the country.

Rome: ”Hiding in plain sight in the city’s center, the Palazzo Colonna is one of the oldest and grandest palaces in Rome— and at night, it’s spectacular. A cannon ball was fired into the marble staircase during the days of the Roman Republic.”

Tivoli: “The Villa d’Este never fails to delight with its whimsical fountains and waterfalls.”

Florence: ”The recently renovated Opera del Duomo Museum has so many treasures it’s hard to know where to start, but Ghiberti’s Gates of Paradise are truly miraculous.“ Venice: ”San Marco has surely been well known to tourists for centuries, but to experience it at night is magical.”

Padua: ”If you are anywhere in the northeastern part of Italy, drop everything and head to the Arena Chapel in Padua to see the fresco cycle of Giotto, whom many scholars see as the father of the Italian Renaissance.”

Paestum: ”Forget the Parthenon! Well not really, but if you want ancient Greek ruins that predate the Acropolis,

visit the Temples of Hera and Athena, constructed circa 500 B.C. in this outpost of the Athenian Empire one hour east of Naples.”

Naples: ”While the entire city of Naples seems to feel undiscovered, I’m always amazed when I go to the National Archaeological Museum, with its incredible Farnese collection. Check out the ancient mosaics and the Secret Cabinet for some of the naughtier works from Pompeii.”

Arezzo: ”The Cappella Maggiore in the choir of the Basilica of San Francesco houses the series of frescoes by Piero della Francesca of The Legend of the True Cross.”

Mantua: ”The Palazzo Ducale is one of my all-time favorite spaces in Italy.”

TRAVEL WITH PAGE NEXT SPRING! Inspired to explore Italy? Contact your trip designer to help plan your itinerary. You can also join Page Knox for an Insider Journey on Spanish Art in March 2023, as she guides you through Madrid, Granada and Seville like an insider. See p. 35 for more about the trip.

Find out more about our Insider Journeys, including itineraries: insiderjourneys@indagare.com.

45

A Tale of Two Islands

PHOTO CREDIT TKT

Malta and Sicily offer a quieter side of the Mediterranean island experience, but one packed with history, natural beauty and a new creative energy. Melissa Biggs Bradley reports.

46

INDAGARE.COM

Mediterranean Secrets

MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY

The second-largest of the islands in the Maltese archipelago, Gozo is renowned for its stunning coastline, popular for diving and snorkeling. Opposite: The Baroque Sicilian town of Ragusa is part of one of the six UNESCO World Heritage sites on the island.

47

I

WOULDN’T CALL Malta or Sicily the overlooked islands of the Mediterranean, but in recent years they have not been part of the mad stampede to Europe’s sunny shores. Not like Capri and the Balearic Islands that have seen unprecedented crowds. Yet I keep hearing whispers from well-traveled friends with amazing taste about the historic treasures and gob-smacking charm of the Baroque gems of Noto and the walled town of Valletta. Filmmakers from Ridley Scott to Francis Ford Coppola have used Malta and Sicily for epic backdrops in films from The Godfather to Gladiator; more recently, many scenes in Game of Thrones were shot in Maltese hill towns.

Palazzos in Palermo, Noto and Valletta and country farms on their outskirts are being restored and turned into art foundations, cutting-edge wineries and stylish hotels or residences for artists and designers. Not surprisingly, many locals would prefer to keep these quieter shores under wraps, but last spring a few friends who love and live on these islands invited me to discover their unique beauty.

I found myself so enchanted by the layers of fascinating history and the pockets of deep quiet in their stunning coves and ancient towns that I persuaded them to open doors for us on some special trips next spring. Details on p. 56

48

INDAGARE.COM



Proud Capital



Malta’s capital Valletta was Europe’s first planned city when it was built by the Knights of Malta in the 16th century. Today, it is Europe’s smallest national capital at just under 200 acres, yet it contains 320 monuments.

A bonus for visitors and locals alike: Malta receives on average 3,000 hours of sunlight a year, and its historic center teems with palm trees and tropical flowers.

Melting Pot Maltese residents joke that the island nation suffers from a well-earned identity crisis: its religion is Roman Catholic; its traditions are British (it was a British colony until 1964); its language is derived from Arabic; its cuisine is heavily influenced by Italy, and it is the EU member closest to Africa, lying 300 kilometers north of Libya.

Malta is a special place to visit, because its particular location at the crossroads from Europe to North Africa and beyond has filled this small group of islands with so many influences and references.”—FRANCIS SULTANA,

MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY

Interior Designer and Ambassador of Culture for Malta

49

On the Waterfront

PHOTO CREDIT TKT

Separating Valletta from Malta’s ancient and fortified Three Cities (Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua) is Grand Harbour, which is full of boats, including traditional luzzus, whose prows feature the Eye of Osiris for protection, and dghajas, which resemble colorful gondolas.

50

INDAGARE.COM



Style File The owner of this 16th-century palace in Valletta (also on previous spread), who is a marquis and a Knight of Malta, said: “A visitor needs to see the Maltese identity. This is composed of pretension, aspiration, taste and bric-a-brac, and it can all be embodied and focused on in a Maltese familyoccupied palazzina.”

Enfant Terrible



The Italian painter Caravaggio was as known for his groundbreaking, immediately recognizable painting style as he was for his short and violent life. He came to Malta after fleeing from Naples where he was wanted for murder, and his masterpiece “Beheading of St. John the Baptist” was commissioned for the Oratory of Valletta’s Co-Cathedral of St. John. Described as “the painting of the 17th century,” it is still on display in the church, along with another work by the artist.

Hotel Insider

MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY

Malta is best for those more interested in history and culture than a glamorous scene, as the island doesn’t have a perfect five-star yet. Here are two recommended options (Indagare’s team can help book). For Sicily reviews, visit indagare.com.

Iniala Harbour House | Malta

Corinthia Palace Hotel | Malta

Set in a series of five connecting townhouses on Valletta’s Grand Harbour, Iniala Harbour House opened before the pandemic as Malta’s newest luxury property. Of the 23 rooms half face the harbor, the others look to the old town. The townhouses’ façades are historic, but interiors are contemporary with modern art and facilities. A few suites have kitchenettes. The fabulous rooftop restaurant with harbor views is open for brunch and dinner. There’s a boat to take people to the beach in the summer; and one suite has a hot tub, though there is no pool. INIALAMALTA.COM

The first (and flagship) property of the European hotel chain, the Corinthia is located in Attard, about 10 minutes outside of Valletta. It has a grand entry and is surrounded by other garden-encircled villas, across from the park of the president’s palace. The modern wings contain the 100plus rooms that are being redone this year by Maltese interior designer Francis Sultana with a lovely fresh look.

This is a full-service resort with a spa, hair salon, large gym, expansive pool area and gardens, plus a Michelin-starred restaurant, Bahia. A good choice for families. CORINTHIA.COM

51

Indagare Insider



“It’s a magical place, outside of reality,” says artist Sergio Fiorentina of Sicily’s Noto, where he lives and works. “So many artists, architects, designers and stylists all choose to live here.” Our Insider Journey will visit his studio, where his paintings and sculpture mix with his collections of ceramics and modern furniture.

52

INDAGARE.COM



Sicilian Beauty



The Baroque town of Noto in southern Sicily draws architecture lovers for its Baroque masterpieces, food lovers for its slow cuisine and sun lovers to its nearby beaches.

I Vini

MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY

Sicilian native Fausta Occhipinti, who we will visit for lunch and a wine tasting, teamed up with her sister Arianna to turn a family property into one of the most innovative wineries in Sicily.

Baglio Occhipinti’s natural wines are now known around the world.

53

In the Palazzo Francesca Agneli and Massimo Valsecchi transformed Palermo’s massive 18th-century Palazzo Butera into an incredible museum or “cultural laboratory.”

Its dozens of Baroque rooms adorned with frescoes and stucco work are now filled with masterpieces from the Renaissance to work by contemporary artists, including Andy Warhol and Gilbert & George. “The fundamental idea behind the collection,” they have declared, “is the proposition that placing outstanding artworks from different worlds side by side is a way to understand the elements that lie beneath apparent cultural differences.” A visit here is a must for art lovers.

54

INDAGARE.COM



Designer Dreaming French filmmaker Jean-Louis Remilleux spent four years restoring Noto’s 18th-century Palazzo Castellucio, keeping its ceramic floors and frescoes, but channeling his vision of Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa (author of The Leopard) for the rest of the interiors, which include 105 rooms. The result: a feast of inspiration for design lovers.

House & Garden  Milanese fashion designer Luisa Beccaria restored the house and gardens of the 18thcentury country castle of her husband, Prince Lucio Bonaccorsi di Reburdone, Castelluccio, in southern Sicily and will host our Insider Journey for a dinner on the property.

MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY



Handmade in Ragusa Among the treasures tucked into the narrow streets of Ragusa are churches with 16th-century frescoes, a private jewel box theater and the last traditional Sicilian cart makers, who have done commissions for Dolce & Gabbana, while preserving one of the great folk crafts of the island.

55

Staying in Style Clockwise from right: The grounds of the newly restored grand Villa Igiea hotel in Palermo; one of the suites at the San Corrado di Noto resort; and a selection of local treasures.

Join Us: Insider Journeys 2023 Our spring Insider Journeys to Malta and Sicily will include special invitations to the homes of locals such as designers Francis Sultana and Luisa Beccaria as well as private visits to palazzos, studios and wineries.

In the company of Architectural Digest contributing editor Gay Gassmann and Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley, join our in-depth experience of Malta, a destination rich with UNESCO World Heritage sites, including the fortified city of Valletta (the first planned city in Europe), the Three Cities, the Hypogeum Temples, the temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra and the “silent city” of Mdina.

PERFECT FOR: INTELLECTUALS , ART LOVERS , ADVENTURERS

SICILY | APRIL 16 - 22, 2023 | 7 DAYS | 6 NIGHTS Hosted by Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley, our Insider Journey to Sicily takes you behind the scenes of some of the island’s most important cultural treasures, as well as explores the current scene of tastemakers who are infusing tradition with new creative ideas and direction, including designers, winemakers and artists. In Palermo, we will be hosted at private palazzo visits that bring the island’s history to life.

PERFECT FOR: INTELLECTUALS , FOODIES , ART LOVERS

56

INDAGARE.COM

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY; SAN CORRADO DI NOTO; MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY; MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY.

MALTA | APRIL 12 - 16, 2023 | 5 DAYS | 4 NIGHTS

57

MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY

Amazon Dreams

Sunset on Río Pastaza in the Achuar community of Sharamentsa in Ecuador.

Opposite: The author embracing the spirit of the forest known as “arutam” and an ancient kapok tree.

58

INDAGARE.COM

INDAGARE

Heading deep into the jungle to reconnect with nature and experience the dream culture of the Achuar community of Sharamentsa and the Sapara people, Diana Li sees how travel can open eyes, hearts and minds, one trip at a time.

59

The author’s guide creates rope from the stem fibers of a palm leaf, left. Below: The walkway to the communal villa in the Achuar community of Sharamentsa, and right, Salasaca healer Mama Julia preparing the cleansing ceremony.

A

T 4:00 A.M., in that exquisite liminal space between night and day, my group, led by Indigenous rights activist Zoë Tryon, gathered around the fire, well before the roosters’ crow. This was our first morning in the Achuar community of Sharamentsa, located on the shore of the Pastaza River, a one-hour plane ride from the nearest road, deep in the Amazon rainforest, where Ecuador meets Peru.

Every morning, the Achuar begin their day with a guayusada ceremony. Known as a “dream culture,” the Achuar (and other Indigenous communities of the Amazon,

60

INDAGARE.COM

like the Sapara) believe that the dream world is as real as the “real world” we experience when we’re awake. People belonging to dream cultures not only dream every night, but also remember their visions clearly; the concept of a dreamless night is completely foreign. I remember my dreams more often than not, but my skills are amateurish compared to those of the Achuar. Yet with each passing night underneath a mosquito net very far from anywhere, my dreams became more vivid and profound.

The more I dream, the more I feel awake. The more time I spend learning in the wild, the more connected I feel to myself, others and the world. My passion for ancient and Indigenous wisdom is core to my identity, and it has strengthened, especially because of the pandemic. At the beginning of 2022, I committed to giving “remote work” a new meaning. I want to travel the distance to where nature is in its purest form. I believe that as we speed into the metaverse, we risk disassociating even more from our

DIANA LI

In a large communal pot, our Achuar guides José and Agustín brewed guayusa tea with caffeinated leaves from a special rain-forest holly that has been consumed for thousands of years by Indigenous peoples, primarily in Ecuador and that tastes closest to yerba maté. For the next 20 minutes, with large hollowed gourds as our tea cups, we took turns drinking, refilling and drinking many times over, until we all purged. This ritual is said to clear away bad energy, heal the stomach—our energy source—and give the body strength for the day. Once we all settled down again together, one by one, we shared our dreams from the night before, as José and Agustín helped us find meaning in the mysterious. “If life is a road,” explained José, “our dreams are traffic lights guiding us.”

The more I dream, the more I feel awake.

The more time I spend learning in the wild, the more connected I feel to myself, others and the world.”

61

natural human origins. As lion tracker and author Boyd Varty has said, “wilderness brings us closer to places in ourselves that often go unvisited in modern life… The aboriginals used to say of modern life, ‘It’s three days deep.’

In three days in the wilderness, you learn what’s important and your mind changes…. There is an immediacy to life in the wilderness that makes so much of what most of us consider important fall away.”

My goal was to tap back into nature, find freedom in stillness and learn how to help protect Indigenous ways of life. So last February, my colleague Elise and I ventured into the snow to explore Arctic Sweden with the Sámi people.

In April, we ventured into the desert to Namibia with the nomadic Himba and Damara. And in June, I ventured with a small group into the rainforest: Ecuadorian Amazon with the Achuar and Sapara.

After our pre-dawn guayusa ceremony, we filled our stomachs again but this time with hearts of palm, fried yuca pancakes and cherimoyas, custard apple tropical fruits from South America. José then guided us on a jungle trek to visit a very special tree, stopping us in our tracks every few meters to teach us about the medicinal plants around us. “Humans” he said, “are made by the forest. We need to recharge ourselves through nature. Walk in the forest, bathe in the river. A place to meditate and to feel.” José swung his machete and severed a tall palm leaf from a tree that is cousin to the pineapple. In less than 10 minutes, he flattened the stem, stripped the fibers and spun the pieces into a spiral rope, ready for use, while we watched.

He described how the ancestors of the Achuar taught the making of rope and medicines by visiting them in their dreams.

Nearly one hour of trekking later, I gasped as the brush cleared to reveal a giant ceiba tree, also known as a kapok, and referred to in Sharamentsa as árbol sagrado (sacred tree) and el abuelo (grandfather). José explained to us that the trees are our brothers. Big trees give life to little trees.

His people do not worry much. When woodpeckers make holes in trees, the tree doesn’t care. And in the end, we all go to the same earth. For 20 minutes, we each meditated in a corner of the massive root system, its buttress walls granting each of us solitude. Standing in the presence of the ceiba, I felt incredibly small. My thoughts wandered. How had I gotten to this place, here next to this majestic tree that is home to thousands of animals? How much knowledge does it hold over hundreds of years? I felt its bark against my fingers and, in that moment, I believe I understood arutam, the sacred spirit of la selva (the jungle) for the Indigenous people living in Ecuador.

62

INDAGARE.COM

Now is the time for a completely different kind of magic… that will let us remember, rather than forget… remembering is simply a matter of recollecting the essence of ourselves—of gathering our finest pollen into the present for the sake of the future.”

DIANA LI

—PETER KINGSLEY, ancient philosophy expert

63

Watching “fish television” with Achuar guides José and Agustín (also on previous spread). Above, from left: An Achuar ceramic pot for taking tobacco; the author with the leader of the Waorani tribe and members of the female artisan collective outside Shell, Ecuador.

64

INDAGARE.COM

DIANA LI

We hiked in silence, lost in our own thoughts, until we came to the riverbank, where Agustín met us with a canoe. Riding the current downstream towards the village, we stopped for a swim in the Amazon’s sacred headwaters. Afterwards, some of us got back in the canoe, ready to head back to the village. But José and Agustín weren’t going anywhere. I watched as they lay on their stomachs on the shallow beach, peering down into the water, as if in a trance. Their eyes and smiles wide and their bodies completely still, they were nowhere else but here. I went to where they were and lay down. Less than a foot above the water, I stared into my own reflection. The distance between my eyes and the water created a magnifying-glass effect, enlarging every particle of volcanic sand. What I thought was black was actually a spectrum of color. Hundreds of tiny iridescent fish swam on top of mesmerizing, undulating patterns in the sand.

It seemed so simple, yet it was beautiful. Together, we sat watching until golden hour faded. We easily could’ve missed this moment, if we hadn’t mirrored José’s and Agustín’s stillness and observation.

My heart is often divided between the country and the city.

When I’m in the wilderness, I feel the most alive and in tune with my inner nature. But I also feel at home in New York. When I tried to describe my love of the city to my new friends in Llanchamacocha village, a community of Sapara known as the “hippies of the Amazon,” they couldn’t fathom how I could choose a concrete jungle over the real one.

Upon arrival, our new family, including our guide Shimanu, performed not one, but two, cleansing ceremonies to rid our minds of the city. Shimanu welcomed us, “your house is ours, there is no difference, our earth is our mother.” In the first cleansing, one of the elders gently beat us with foliage and blew tobacco smoke over our bodies before painting our faces with achiote and naming us (my Sapara given name was Eya, “universe”). In the second (since one was not enough), another elder rubbed chonta-bark ashes all over our skin and bathed us in hot water brewed with chiricaspi leaves. After taking tobacco, one of the three most sacred plants to channel arutam, we stared in the direction of the sun in reverence. And finally, we jumped into the river, embracing the force of the strong current. Our group stood in a circle, holding hands, chanting the sounds of a jaguar and shouting “Aquí estamos” in unison. We are here.

And for now, the Sapara are here. But in 2001, UNESCO recognized their oral traditions as a “Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.” Once a population of 200,000, they number now less than 600 between Ecuador and Peru, with only three native speakers left— one of whom, Mukasawa, we had the honor of meeting. The Sapara believe that all things are sacred and have a spirit, inanimate or invisible: “We understand that we are not superior, nor are we owners of the land or the forest. We are equal to all other life.” My new, young friend Iyari has hope for the future generations: “Podemos enviar un mensaje que los saparas estamos vivos (we can send a message that the Sapara are alive.)”

When we emerged from the Amazon, seven days later, we learned that Ecuador had declared a state of emergency: Indigenous groups had blocked the main roads as part of one of the country’s most historic protests, coming together to oppose the economic and social policies of President Guillermo Lasso. Our bags were searched for weapons that might supply the Indigenous movement when we reached the frontier town of Shell, named after the oil company. In every community we visited, I asked how nonIndigenous people can support them best. Tourism was the most common answer: by visiting and experiencing these cultures and learning from their deep connection to the land, we become ambassadors with a responsibility to share the message and to help them protect them from extinction.

A few days after I returned home, following the 18-day strike, a peace agreement was negotiated between the Confederation of Indigenous Nationalities of Ecuador and the government, bringing an end, for now, to all new oil and mining concessions in Indigenous territories. It made me think that maybe in the non-Indigenous world, we’re the ones who, half-asleep, are caught in our dream world, unable to see reality in the threads that tie us all together.

From my travels, I am more wide awake than ever.

LET US DESIGN YOUR ECUADOR TRIP Call us at 212-988-2611 or visit indagare.com/go to plan the Ecuador itinerary that’s best for you.

65

The bar at Chourangi. Right, from top: The terrace at Akub; red prawn at Lisboeta.

66

INDAGARE.COM

London’s Best New Restaurants Across the Pond, an array of global influences is on display—and ensuring the city’s food scene is alive and well (thank you kindly, Covid). Jen Murphy dives in.

L

ONDON HAS ALWAYS been heralded as having one of the world’s most diverse dining scenes. Given the city’s multicultural population, it’s possible to go on a global tasting tour without getting out your passport: more than 100 different cuisines can be sampled in settings ranging from fine-dining temples to casual wine bars. The lull of the pandemic provided chefs the opportunity to experiment and research techniques and flavors like never before. The result is a crop of wildly innovative restaurants devoted to re-creating— in some instances reimagining—the most delicious variations of foods from cultures around the globe.

Akub

PATRICIA TOBIN / CHOURANGI; TK; MILO BROWN / LISBOETA.

Palestine Fadi Kattan, the Franco-Palestinian chef behind restaurant Fawda in Bethlehem, draws on influences and inspiration from all corners of Palestine at his long-awaited London venture, Akub, in Notting Hill. The menu is designed to offer a culinary journey of regional specialties, such as hummus from Jerusalem and a peppery dandelion salad from Jericho.

Kattan, who helped pioneer Bethlehem’s first food tours, calls upon his

67

London fare, below, from top: Seafood plate and salad at Speedboat Bar; chef Luke Farrell at Speedboat Bar. Opposite: The bar at Manteca.

deep network of Palestinian farmers and artisans to import unique ingredients, then marries them with top-quality products sourced from around Britain. His ambition: to respectfully redefine modern Palestinian cooking. akub-restaurant.com.

Opening in November.

Manteca Italy

Lisboeta Portugal Portuguese chef Nuno Mendes has earned a devoted London following with projects like Michelin-starred Viajante, his experimental kitchen Loft Project, and his stint at celebrity hangout Chiltern Firehouse. His newest restaurant, Lisboeta, is his largest and most personal yet. Spread across three floors of a town house in Fitzrovia, Lisboeta is Mendes’s ode to Lisbon, the city he grew up in. An accessible menu of shareable pesticos

68

INDAGARE.COM

CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT: MARCUS COBDEN / SPEEDBOAT; MARCUS COBDEN / SPEEDBOAT; ANTON RODRIGUEZ / MANTECA.

At Manteca, British chef Chris Leach combines the nose-to-tail cooking of his youth with the handmade pastas he fell in love with while traveling around Italy. After a series of residencies, the concept finally has a permanent home in Shoreditch.

The former factory digs are spacious enough to allow for a wood-fired oven, a bench where chefs roll out yolky pasta, and a glass-walled salumi room where Roman-style pork jerky and fennel pollen–seasoned sausages are hung to cure. Leach’s delicious recipe riffs include pig-skin ragù with Parmesan, brown crab cacio e pepe and seaweed tagliatelle with smoked seaweed butter. mantecarestaurant.co.uk.

(small plates), tachos (pots) and travessas (platters) showcases Portuguese ingredients, such as greater amberjack caught in the Azores, and acorn-fed black pork from Alentejo. Mendes brings a touch of refinement to rustic dishes like Goan-spiced pork pie and red-prawn-and-seafood rice and puts a playful twist on classic desserts like abade de priscos, a rich custard that he tops with port-wine caramel. And the extensive wine list here reads like a who’s who of Portuguese producers, both past and emerging. lisboeta.co.uk.

Speedboat Bar Thailand During his 15-plus years working in Southeast Asia, chef Luke Farrell collected

It’s possible to go on a global tasting tour without getting out your passport: more than 100 different cuisines can be sampled in settings ranging from fine-dining temples to casual wine bars.”

hundreds of seeds, which he’s cultivated back at his nursery in Dorset. Those rare ingredients are now showing up on the menus at his latest London restaurants.

Earlier this year, he teamed up with JK Restaurants to dazzle Londoners’ taste buds with the pungent curries and bold stir-fries of southern Thailand at Plaza Khao Gaeng.

His fall follow-up, Speedboat Bar, in Soho, delivers equally zingy dishes inspired by the restaurants of Bangkok’s neon-lit Chinatown. Named for the traditional Thai sport of speedboat racing, this spot is anchored by a menu that features wok-flamed noodles, roasted-duck curries, chili-spiked seafood salads and a tom yum (hot and sour soup) recipe from Farrell’s favorite boat racer. An upstairs bar, decorated with signed racing posters, serves the best whiskey sodas in the city. jkrestaurants.com.

69

Chourangi India While London has an abundance of excellent Indian restaurants, there are very few devoted to the cuisine of Kolkata. Chef turned restaurateur Anjan Chatterjee’s first London eatery, Chourangi, fills the void. A dining room with limestone floors, rattan furnishings and twirling fans transports diners to the coffee houses found in the historic Calcutta quarter for which the restaurant is named. Chatterjee personally sources the spices in India and adds them to ingredients from the United Kingdom’s top purveyors to re-create his favorite childhood dishes, such as claypot-cooked Bengali carp, Awadhi biryani and kosha lamb slow-roasted in a curry of cardamom, clove and cinnamon. chourangi.co.uk.

Roketsu Japan Roketsu claims to be London’s first truly authentic kaiseki experience. The traditional Japanese multicourse meal, whose origins lie in dishes served at the Zen Buddhist tea

ceremony, celebrates ingredients at their peak of seasonality. Kaiseki master Daisuke Hayashi spent two decades training at triple Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurant Kikunoi Honten in Kyoto and applies that knowledge to his intricate 10-course meals at Roketsu. The intimate hinoki wood interiors of the Marylebone restaurant were built by craftsmen affiliated with Sotoji Nakamura, one of the world’s foremost experts in sukiya (tea room)-style architecture, and shipped to London. With a counter of just 10 seats surrounding the open kitchen, reservations for dishes like sticky crab rice and pristine sashimi paired with exceptional sakes book out two months in advance. roketsu.co.uk.

St. John Marylebone Britain When Fergus Henderson, godfather of modern British cookery, and restaurateur Trevor Gulliver opened pioneering restaurant St. John in 1994, they set off a noseto-tail-eating movement that celebrated often overlooked animal parts like offal and pig’s ear. A mini St. John empire consisting of bakeries and a wine bar followed. The duo

In an age of trend-driven dining, a truly original concept takes us by surprise. Case in point: Sessions Art Club—the darling of London’s food scene. Yes, the innovative cooking from chef Florence Knight, formerly of Soho’s beloved Polpetto, is excellent. But it’s the overall experience that has made it one of London’s toughest reservations.

The entry has all the hallmarks of a private members’ club—a signfree red door off a side street in Clerkenwell and an elevator that whisks you to reception—without any pretension. The white-tablecloth dining room is situated within an18th-century building with distressed, blushed patina walls, custom leather banquettes inspired by the original Session House’s court chairs and a rotating art collection. A menu of dishes like fried potato and smoked eel and sea bream with fig oil and sorrel are complemented by a sensational wine list and delivered by top-notch staff. It’s more than a meal, it’s the whimsical, glamorous escape we’ve all been craving. sessionsartsclub.com.

Above, from top left: Chef Florence Knight and co-founder Johnny Gent; the Sessions Art Club dining room.

70

INDAGARE.COM

BETH EVANS, COURTESY SESSIONS ART CLUB.

Reservation to Get: Sessions Arts Club

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP: TK; ELIOT SHEPPARD, COURTESY MANTECA; PATRICIA TOBIN / CHOURANGI.

Inside St. John Marylebone.

Below, from left: Beetroot chop at Chourangi; bowtie pasta at Manteca.

71

Joia Battersea Power Station at night. Right, from top: Manteca exterior; Middle Eastern classics at The Tent.

is opening its first new all-day, wine-centric spot in seven years this fall in Marylebone. “It’s inspired by the bars of Paris and Florence, which are all things to all people at all moments through every day,” says Gulliver. “We’ll offer coffee and wine, tartines and three-course meals.” In the morning, doughnuts from St. John’s Bermondsey bakery will be paired with Champagne, and lunch will feature a daily-changing blackboard menu of shareable small plates.

Dinner will feel more like a feast with some classic St. John dishes gussied up with luxurious touches like a heap of caviar. Wine will play a starring role, with a carefully curated list including St. John’s own house wines and bottles reflecting Gulliver’s longstanding relationships with generations of vignerons. stjohnrestaurant.com.

The Tent (at the End of the Universe) The Middle East Globe-trotting star chef John Javier’s first foray into Middle Eastern cuisine puts an exciting twist on traditional flavors and techniques. Classic chicken schnitzel is reimagined with Iberico pork or saganaki cheese and other ingredients rarely represented in the region’s cooking, such as dashi, kombu and wakame, are deftly applied to dips like hummus and tzatziki. The dining experience at this vibey Fitzrovia restaurant feels more like a party, thanks to lunar-inspired lighting and live music piped through a sound system from Berlin audio specialists Martion. Rather than put the kitchen front and center, a DJ is nestled amid the 34-seat dining room; performances change nightly. little-portland.com.

Joia The Iberian Peninsula

CONTACT US FOR EXPERT ADVICE Let us help you make the most of your future travels.

Call us at 212-988-2611 or visit indagare.com/go.

72

INDAGARE.COM

JOIA; MANTECA; BRONIA STEWART / THE TENT.

This fall’s opening of Joia, from Michelin-decorated Portuguese chef Henrique Sá Passoa, is certain to cement London’s new Battersea Power Station district as a new

destination for food lovers. Part of the second phase of the decade-long redevelopment of the power station, Joia will span the top floors of Art’otel.

The menu travels across the Iberian Peninsula, with a focus on the techniques and flavors of Catalonia and Portugal.

Tableside touches, like a dollop of olive oil caviar atop a dish of salted-cod crudo with pickled onions, add to the theatrical backdrop of the London skyline. Two bars—one on the 14th floor, and one on the rooftop—feature a deep vermouth selection and cocktails mixed with Iberian spices. artotellondonbattersea.com/joia. Opening soon.

73

At the beach in Melides. Opposite (inset): India Hicks in Lisbon in a dress by Kleed.

74

INDAGARE.COM

Postcard from Portugal Returning to the country of her youth with her family in tow, India Hicks shares scenes from a holiday and gets a peek at Christian Louboutin’s hotly anticipated hotel, coming soon to the Alentejo.

To contrast the Vale de Lobos and Quinta do Lago, I took my children north to the Alentejo to stay with my friend Christian Louboutin. (We met when I was 18, and he promised to teach me French if I taught him English. He now speaks fluent franglais, and my French is hopeless.)

Christian had discovered a remote stretch of land with a few farmhouses close to a beach village. After some years of getting to know the Portuguese way of life, Christian is now launching a small, opulent hotel bursting with originality. “Zis,” he said, pushing open an intricately carved door, “will be zee Kinky English Room. Zee guests can do naughty zings in zee outdoor marble tub.” The hotel will be his love letter to Portugal—traditional craftsmanship, luxurious materials and a large lick of eclectic humor—as beguiling and cultish as his red-soled shoes.

INDIA HICKS

I

SPENT MANY SUMMERS in Portugal, in the Algarve, in a house my father built, during my teenage and twentysomething years. I returned this summer with my own teenagers and twentysomethings to that house, which was magnificently perched on a hill that my father had the imagination to build up, ensuring Villa Verde would forever command a view of the Atlantic. My father had been commissioned to design a house from the ground up—interiors, exteriors, gardens, guest house—every detail was David Hicks to the limit. The clients became close friends of my parents, and whilst the friendship lasted, the raw landscape surrounding the house did not. Gone were the years of tying string to trees to find your way out of the forests. In its place are groomed golf courses, gym memberships, nightclubs and polished Range Rovers.

A little further down the road, we explored Comporta, already on the map, with celebrity sightings, chic shopping and oat-milk lattes. We surfed at sunset and rode horses over the dunes—spotting only a very tanned naked man, who was almost as much a part of the wildlife as the pod of dolphins the guide said they often spot in the sea.

Going against the weekend traffic, we drove into Lisbon.

We took a tuk-tuk tour, weaving in and out of its charming cobblestoned streets, around castles, down to the river and back up to the cathedral to light a candle, and wonder at the construction, dating back to the 1100s. We stayed in the Tivoli on the Avenida Liberdade. Although it’s been here since 1933, the hotel has a smooth 1970s vibe. You almost expect to see Sean Connery by the pool or ordering a martini at the sky bar on the roof, overlooking this twinkling, welcoming, resolutely Portuguese city.

For more on Portugal, see p. 32.

75

Comporta “Comporta has an array of colorful shopping. Here I am at the Casa Da Culture (fundacaohdc.pt; below), with a Hester Bly sarong from the collection we have just collaborated on—and feeling quite at home. My heart skipped a beat when I wandered into The Life Juice (thelifejuice.com; below, center), whose owner Isabel Costa stocks mainly Portuguese brands, including Earl Grey tea from Lisbon and poured candles from Algarve. I invested in a fedora, handmade from 100 percent natural and biodegradable wool from Portugal by artisans.”

76

INDAGARE.COM

Melides life: Hitting the beach.

Right: India’s sons with fashion designer Christian Louboutin.

FAVORITE FINDS: LISBON

Melides “In the teeny center of Melides, bookending the town bar, are two shops to pop into: Vida Dura (vidadura.pt; below), owned by Rui Freitas, Christian Louboutin’s partner, who dresses in chic patterned pajamas and sells Portuguese pottery (a collection of which is now being shipped to my shop on Harbour Island) and fresh flowers. On the other corner, beneath the trailing bougainvillea, is Noemina Melides (@noeminamelides),which carries enchanting children’s clothes and cashmere scarves collected by owner Noemi Marone Cinzano on her travels to India. I invested in bright orange and yellow water jugs, which will serve as a happy memory of Melides. Much to the relief of my family they are not actually porcelain. Although by now they should not be surprised by the things that end up in my suitcases.”

“Many local friends recommended we take a tuk-tuk tour of Lisbon. We were highly suspicious, but they were right—it was a fast and fabulous way to get to know this beautiful city, especially since it’s small and built on seven hills. You see sights and historic buildings and views (from wonderful miradouros, the Portuguese name for viewpoints) in a short trip—although our guide was much more interested in learning that Dr. Pepper was not a hot sauce, than she was in telling us the date of the cathedral.”

“Have lunch and wander the streets of Príncipe Real. During the day, we visited Embaixada, a handsome building overflowing with Portuguese brands— from skimpy bikinis to men’s sweaters— and A Cevicheria for Peruvian fusion.”

“JNcQuoi Avenida in Avenida Liberdade is a sophisticated, chic space serving great food and with a trendy cocktail bar downstairs for pre- or after-dinner drinks. If it’s warm and sunny (which can be at any time of year but mainly spring and summer), the restaurant has a lovely terrace at the front so you can also watch the street life of the Avenida while you eat.”

INDIA HICKS

“JNcQuoi Asia is another impressively designed and eclectic space, a little further down the Avenida, that serves the best pan-Asian food in this amazing setting. The outdoor terrace garden in the exterior is as exotic as the interior—every detail is a feast for your eyes.”

“Sky Bar on top of the Tivoli hotel has a memorable sky-high rooftop view, well worth the sky-high price of drinks, a fabulous start to an evening or a place to wander into mid-afternoon.”

77

MEXICO CIT Y:

D ECODED

INDAGARE

Seven insiders share their favorite spots in Mexico’s multifaceted capital with Indagare’s Peter Schlesinger.

78

INDAGARE.COM

MAUREEN EVANS / ZII ROPA; INDAGARE.

Zii Ropa in Mexico City.

Opposite: Casa Luis Barragán.

79

City scenes, clockwise from right: the rooftop of Museo Kaluz; street details; Valtierra Cerámica; Zii Ropa; Museo Anahuacalli; home décor at Kurimanzutto.

80

INDAGARE.COM

A

SK ALMOST ANYONE about Mexico City and they’ll mention how it’s sprawling. Home to 22 million inhabitants, it’s one of the world’s largest metropolitan areas—and most vibrant, too.

“There’s such a diversity of things happening at the same time,” explains Samuel Leizorek, the hotelier behind Las Alcobas, a beloved boutique property in the city’s chic Polanco neighborhood. And in recent years, that breadth of activity has helped brand Mexico City as a global hub for food, art, fashion and design. “When a lot of the artists and chefs and entrepreneurs from all disciplines gave the city a new vibe—that put us on the map.” Here are top tips from seven locals (lifelong, or newly indoctrinated) for what to see on that admittedly overwhelming map.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: FABIAN MARTINEZ, COURTESY VALTIERRA CERÁMICA; MAUREEN EVANS / ZII ROPA; MUSEO ANAHUACALLI; DIANA LI; GERARDO SANDOVAL / GESS / MUSEO KALUZ; ROSE ALLEN.

ALL ABOUT ALMUERZO Where To Eat Lunch “One cannot be in CDMX without having lunch at Contramar (Calle de Durango 200, Roma Norte; contramar.com. mx). It’s fundamental. There is a significant place held by the tuna tostada of Contramar in the zeitgeist emergence of Mexico.”—Rodman Primack “Tetetlán (Avenida de Las Fuentes 180 - B, Jardines del Pedregal), built over volcanic rocks next to Luis Barragan’s Casa Pedregal. There is a glass floor, so you can see the lava.

It serves really good Mexican food, is a great store and it gets you to a different neighborhood. I also like Cicatriz (Calle Dinamarca 44, Juárez) near my showroom. It’s a very casual, cozy place for salads.”—Perla Valtierra Dinners Worth Traveling For “There are too many great restaurants in this city, but my favorite and regular place for a perfect evening is Maximo Bistrot (Avenida Álvaro Obregón 65 Bis, Roma Norte; maximobistrot.com.mx). The food is excellent, the service casual and attentive and the space, beautiful (designed by my good friend Charles de Lisle, who has worked with Lalo and Gabriela, the owners for years).”—Rodman Primack

81

N DD AA G G AA RR EE II N N SS II DD EE RR SS II N

CDMX INSIDERS: For their complete answers to our questions and more, visit indagare.com.

Olivia Villanti, Chava Studio Designer Olivia Villanti sells breezy linen and cotton pieces from her atelier, which opened in 2020 adjacent to the Museo Estudio Luis Barragan. chavastudio.com

82

Rodman Primack, Co-Founder AGO Projects

Architectural designer and art advisor Primack has hosted several Insider Journeys. He moved to CDMX in 2019, opening his design gallery with partner Rudy Weissenberg. ago-projects.com

Perla Valtierra, Valtierra Cerámica

James Oseland, World Food

Locally born Valtierra launched her online-only ceramics brand—with its signature ribboned- and scalloped-edged bowls, plates and vases in 2010. Last year, she opened its first showroom. perlavaltierra.shop

James Beard Award-winning food and travel writer (and former judge on Bravo’s Top Chef Masters) Oseland has lived in Mexico City since 2015. He dedicated the first volume of his World Food series to the city. jamesoseland.com

Samuel Leizorek, Las Alcobas, a Luxury Collection Hotel

Juliette Frey & Sophia Wheeler, Chic by Accident

Born and raised in Mexico City, Leizorek studied hospitality at Cornell before returning to open Las Alcobas, which has welcomed savvy travelers in Polanco since 2010. lasalcobas.com

Frey and Wheeler are the Gallery Director and Client Relations Manager, respectively, for Emmanuel Picault’s stylish vintage furniture boutique in Roma Norte. chicbyaccident.com

INDAGARE.COM

“Casa Virginia (Monterrey 116, Roma Norte; casavirginia. mx), the flagship restaurant of chef Mónica Patiño, offers food and ambience that is at once stylish, homey and deeply Mexican. The signature dish—roast lamb with a subtle and earthy pasilla chile sauce—reveals itself as a masterpiece of elevated traditional Mexican cooking. It is no wonder that Patiño is often thought of as the Alice Waters of Mexico.

Also, eat early, say, 4ish, a time which coincides with when Mexico City’s denizens eat their main meal and the vibe and energy of the restaurant is at its most vital.”—James Oseland “Rosetta (Colima 166, Roma Norte; rosetta.com.mx) has so much to love: Ambience, incredible food, great location…

I’ve been going to Rosetta and taking friends there for years and it never disappoints. You can easily spend hours there drinking wine or mezcal sobremesa (post-meal).”—Olivia Villanti

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: CHAVA STUDIO; RODMAN PRIMACK; STEVEN OOI; SOPHIA WHEELER; FERNANDO ETULAIN; SAMUEL LEIZOREK; PERLA VALTIERRA.

LOCAL EATING “Completely out of the hype, there are many typical family businesses that offer simple, genuine, typical and excellent food. I love Teoixtla (Zacatecas 59, Roma Norte) for the traditional Mexican stew pozole in all its forms; 1950s classic cantina Bar El Sella (Dr. Balmis 210, Doctores; barelsella. com.mx) for its El Chamorro, a slow-cooked beef shank; and Le-Lah-Tho (Av. Patriotismo 456, San Pedro de los Pinos), which serves specialty dishes from the Yucatán.”

—Juliette Frey

THE NEW AND NEW(ISH) ARRIVALS “Botánico (Alfonso Reyes 217, Condesa) just had its soft opening and the setting is gorgeous, open-air with a beautiful bar, great lighting and private dining rooms that can be booked in advance. Plus, I am really impressed with the food. A gem!”—Olivia Villanti “We love Taller Xilotl (Biarritz 2, Juárez; xilotl.com), a tiny seafood restaurant which opened in 2020. It showcases the talent of two young Mexican chefs, Alberto Harwy and Felicitas Binder.”—Juliette Frey “Chef Lucho Martinez opened Em (Tonalá 133, Roma Norte) in 2019, so it’s not brand-new, but he does a very

interesting take on Mexican fusion. He really captured my attention in a very unique way. I have not seen something like this—such exquisiteness in preparation and presentation—in a new restaurant in a very long time.”—Samuel Leizorek

FASHIONABLE FINDS “I would make a point of visiting 1/8 Takamura (Calle Dinamarca 66, Juárez; 1-8takamura.com) for really wellcut chore coats and kimonos. And Carla Fernandez’s shop (Calle Marsella 72, Juárez; en.carlafernandez.com) is amazing. It was designed by her husband, artist Pedro Reyes, in Juárez. Carla makes all her pieces with communities throughout Mexico and there are always beautiful things.”—Rodman Primack “Zii Ropa (Tabasco 61, Roma Norte; ziiropa.com) has all the basics, with very beautiful fabrics and silhouettes.”

—Perla Valtierra “Void (Parral 5, Condesa; voidmx.com; temporarily closed for renovations) in Condesa has an incredibly unique curation of high-end vintage pieces.”—Sophia Wheeler

The Perfect Saturday “Go to the San Ángel neighborhood in the south of the city for Bazaar del Sábado (Plaza San Jacinto 11, San Angel), a weekly market with high-quality arts and crafts. After that you’re close to the Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo House Studio Museum (Avenida Altavista Diego Rivera). You can walk all around the former studio, designed by functionalist designer Juan O’Gorman. After seeing all these elements of art, cross the street to have lunch in the garden at San Ángel Inn (Diego Rivera 50, Alvaro Obregón). It’s an hacienda-style building with a large fountain, and there’s always a parade of Mexican families and visitors. It’s very high energy with a great sense of place.”—Samuel Leizorek 83

taking a break

THE DRINKS “Hit up a cantina for a beer and mezcal.

Covadonga (Puebla 121, Roma Norte) and El Centenario (Av. Vicente Suárez 42, Colonia Condesa) are my favorites— they have character and are a favorite of locals, not just tourists.”—Olivia Villanti THE DESSERTS “The meringue cake at Contramar or mil hojas de frutos rojos (mille feuille with red fruits) at Panadería Rosetta (Colima 179, Roma Norte).”—Perla Valtierra “Cherimoya, a fruit I had never had in the States and is to this day the most exquisite

84

INDAGARE.COM

and delicious I’ve ever tasted. Go to the Tuesday farmer’s market in Condesa and get one there—you can even sample it before buying. It’s loosely translated into ‘custard apple’ because it’s something between the tang of an apple, the creaminess of a banana and the richness of something that I have yet to define.”

—Olivia Villanti “I grew up going to my grandparents’ house every Sunday, and my grandmother would have butter cookies with a chocolate scribble on top from a bakery in Polanco run by a Jewish immigrant couple. Their son decided to expand the empire and opened Garabatos (garabatos.com), which is Spanish for scribble. Now, it’s a chain with locations all over the city that still sells those famous cookies.”

—Samuel Leizorek

Contramar’s Merengue de fresas. Above, from left: Panadería Rosetta; Proyectos Monclova art gallery.

MAUREEN M. EVANS; WHITE BALANCE-RAMIRO CHÁVEZ; CONTRAMAR

THE SNACK “Snacking is best done on the street: I love the markets in Mexico and often stop for quesadillas or tacos. If you’re in Mexico, you absolutely need to try tacos al pastor, the city’s signature dish (slow-roasted pork tacos).”—Olivia Villanti

THE ART STOP “Labor Gallery (appointment-only; General Francisco Ramírez 5, Ampliación Daniel Garza; labor.org.mx) is right across the street from our studio and represents some of the most interesting Mexican artists, including the sculptor Pedro Reyes.”—Olivia Villanti “Kurimanzutto (Gobernador Rafael Rebollar 94, San Miguel Chapultepec; kurimanzutto.com) does new installations from artists that are contemporary but who are mixing traditional crafts.”—Perla Valtierra “Proyectos Monclova (Libertine 415, Polanco; proyectosmonclova.com) has incredible connections with up-and-coming Mexican artists—and also world-renowned Mexican artists who started within the gallery.”—Samuel Leizorek “Patricia Conde Galería (Calle General Juan Cano 68; pcg.photo) in the leafy neighborhood of San Miguel Chapultepec, is Mexico’s most highly regarded space devoted exclusively to photography. Stop by to see work that ranges from the anthropological photos of Graciela Iturbide to the stunning black-and-white images of Laura Cohen, a contemporary Mexican photographer who specializes in, among other things, poetically documenting modernist Mexican architecture.”—James Oseland

THE MUST-SEE MUSEUMS “The National Anthropology Museum (Avenida Paseo de la Reforma, Bosque de Chapultepec; mna.inah.gob.mx) is … a beautiful preservation of Mexico’s history. All visitors should spend time there to truly understand and appreciate the cultural impact Mexico has had. Mexico is rich, complex, deep, spiritual, welcoming, intoxicating, inspiring, energetic and unlike any other place in the world.”—Olivia Villanti (Rodman Primack agrees. “You can be there for two hours or 10!”)

“Museo Anahuacalli was designed by Diego Rivera and has a collection of Pre-Columbian art. The architecture is amazing. It was recently renovated, and last year added a new space that integrates with Rivera’s original building.”

—Perla Valtierra

“Museo Kaluz is a new museum downtown with Mexican art from the 18th through 20th centuries inside an historic former hospital. For Diego Rivera murals, a place that doesn’t get written up in many places is the Secretariat of Public Education building downtown. It’s home to some of his first murals, and since they’re indoors, the preservation of color is much better than many others. It’s absolutely incredible.”—Samuel Leizorek

THE ACTIVITY “In Prehispanic times this was a city of canals, and they were growing the food in chinampas (floating gardens). Today, Xochimilco is an area of the city that still has these canals and gardens. It’s a site to connect with the original Mexico City.”—Perla Valtierra “I know ballet is not for everyone, but Ballet Folklórico at Bellas Artes (www.balletfolkloricodemexico.com) is not your typical ballet. The costumes, the talents of the dancers and various musical artists exposes you to Mexico’s unique cultural heritage. (Plus, I love the theater’s original Tiffany stained-glass curtain.)”—Samuel Leizorek

THE SOUVENIR “Cerería La Purisima (Mesones 172, Centro Histórico; cereria-lapurisima.com), a small candle concern located on a busy Centro Histórico street, is a vision of the way most Mexico City shops probably were one hundred years ago.

I covet the handmade paraffin candles—they’re the variety used in churches and come in an array of sizes but only one color: a creamy shade of white. Their flames provide the loveliest illumination I’ve ever experienced in my home.”

—James Oseland

Let Us Design Your Trip.

Our travels can inspire and inform yours. To start planning for Mexico City, contact our team: 212-988-2611 or visit indagare.com/go.

85

EARS 15 Y E GA R INDA

Epic Adventures

Helicopter view of Lake Wakatipu and Glenorchy, New Zealand.

86

INDAGARE.COM

LEFT: INDAGARE; INSET, COURTESY SAM AND CHARLOTTE JACKSON.

Over the past 15 years, Indagare has created thousands of extraordinary travel experiences while fulfilling our mission to help people change their lives through travel and have a positive impact on the places they visit. We asked some of our members and Trip Designers to share some of the most memorable trips they’ve taken—and planned. We hope they inspire your future adventures.

- THE TRIP -

NEW ZEALAND & AUSTRALIA HONEYMOON YEAR: 2018

Duration: 16 Days Destinations: Queenstown, Minaret Station, Cape Kidnappers, Huka Lodge, Milford Sound, Annandale

The Highlight: Helicopter excursion over Queenstown Quoteable: “On our honeymoon around New Zealand, we had so many memorable moments—too many to count. But one that definitely stands out was staying at Minaret Station. We had an amazing helicopter excursion over Queenstown and the glaciers that surround it. From there, we landed on a private, secluded ‘beach’ only accessible via helicopter, where our fabulous guide surprised us with a lobster lunch—he went out and fished us lobsters and cooked them in front of us. So epic!”

—Sam and Charlotte Jackson, Members since 2020

GROWING UP INDAGARE We asked the next generation of global citizens—those who have traveled with us since their formative years—to tell us some of their favorite Indagare travel experiences. Discover their memories throughout this section (and more on indagare.com).

87

EARS 15 Y E GA R INDA

Duration: 18 days Destinations: Santiago, Atacama Desert, Pucón, Torres del Paine, Millahue

The Highlight: “Helicoptering over the crater of the active,

CHILEAN PATAGONIA YEAR: 2022

GROWING UP INDAGARE

Favorite travel memory of all time?

“An impossible question! Maybe my first trip after the pandemic. I flew to Madrid for 48 hours and just explored. It felt incredible to be back doing what I love—traveling, when I am my absolute best self. But if I had to pick a specific moment, I’d say it’s a tie between surfing in Byron Bay, Australia or meeting a Maiko in Kyoto. Or skiing in Japan…but like I said, it’s an impossible question!”

—Emma Pierce, Director of Content at AmiGo and Member since 2007 88

INDAGARE.COM

TOP: JULIE V. H. AND DAVID H; BOTTOM: EMMA PIERCE.

- THE TRIP -

smoking Villarrica volcano in the Lakes District.”

Most Memorable Moment: “Hiking the beautiful 12-mile Torres del Paine trail—and getting rewarded after a steep and rocky climb with the blue-green lake at the base of the iconic ‘towers.’”

Favorite Hotel: “Awasi Patagonia, with the well-appointed villas, wonderful food and wine, knowledgeable private guides and vehicles and expansive views made for a special stop.”

Don’t Miss: “A lamb asado (BBQ) at an authentic and modest estancia, prepared and warmly hosted just for the four of us by the Patagonian gaucho himself.”

Favorite Find: “Merquén, the traditional smoked-chili seasoning that made wonderful dishes taste even better!”

Best Surprise: “A steaming hot bath (with a view) awaiting us in our Awasi villa upon returning from the Torres del Paine hike.”

Most Memorable Meal: “Every meal at &Beyond in the Lakes District! We’ll never forget the abundant breakfast spread.”

—Julie V.H. and David H., Members since 2014

THE TRIP:

ISLAND HIDEAWAY | 2011

DESTINATION: Laucala Island THE CELEBRATION: 50th Birthday

“Steve and I have traditionally celebrated milestones and special occasions with best friends and family from around the world at a carefully chosen exotic location. By far our most memorable was celebrating his 50th on Laucala Island, Fiji. The 22 guests, each possessing a stronger zest for life than the other provided a cocktail for enormous fun, deep connection, endless competition, very little sleep and memories for a lifetime. Anything you can think of doing on or near a beach exists at Laucala; diving, paddle boarding, jet skiing, tennis, golf, horseback riding, fishing, mountain biking…. plus 3,200 acres to hike and explore!”—Carrie Bellotti, Indagare Ambassador and Member since 2014

- THE TRIP -

HOLIDAY CHALET

55th Wedding Anniversary!

Duration: 10 days

Most Memorable Moment: ”The company KANDY finds

unique locations to build snow table experiences. On Christmas Eve, they told our group of 17 where to meet—we skied there for lunch. We felt like we were in the mountain logo of an Evian water bottle. They built a table on the cliffside with snow benches and furs piled on top.

They had an ice bar for cocktails and served oysters. No detail was overlooked—they even had a Saint Bernard join the fun!”—Kim and Mark Dempster, Members since 2011

FROM TOP: COURTESY LAUCALA ISLAND; COURTESY KIM AND MARK DEMPSTER.

YEAR: 2017

Destination: Verbier, Switzerland The Highlight: The Snow Table Experience The Celebration: Christmas, 25th Wedding Anniversary and

89

EARS 15 Y E GA R INDA

Destinations: South Africa, Mozambique and Rwanda The Highlight: “This trip was complicated to organize. We had 21

- THE TRIP -

SOUTH AFRICA & BEYOND YEAR: 2022

THE TRIP:

family members, ages 12 to 79. This meant that we took over the Mala Mala camp as well as Santorini Mozambique. The itinerary was perfect: four days to see Cape Town, Robben Island and the Cape by private bus. The excellent head concierge at the Belmond Lord Nelson, Muchi Gubwe, might be one of the best concierges I know.”

Best Surprise: “When the staff at Mala Mala came out with a special cake and put on a performance in honor of my parents’ anniversary. The singing and dancing was very special, and their joy was genuine. They got us all out of our seats, clapping and dancing along with them.”

Favorite Hotel: “The One&Only Gorilla’s Nest was the best hotel we have ever stayed in.”

Don’t Miss: “The boat trip to Benguerra island, off Mozambique.

Climbing the sand dunes and sliding down was pretty special.”

“The people of Rwanda. We took a five-hour car ride from Kigali to One&Only Gorilla’s Nest. Rwanda is a fabulous country—clean, safer than America. Our driver told us of his experience during the genocide, when he was four and his eight-year-old brother took him into the woods to escape for many months.”—Members since 2011

YACHT CHARTER & VILLA | 2021

Indagare helped a group of family and friends meet a yearly goal of being together for two weeks. In addition to time on the boat and at the villa, the group wanted to see a new destination and explore new cultures. (Our advice for anyone wanting to recreate a longer trip: plan at least six months in advance if you have flexible dates.)

90

INDAGARE.COM

JAMIE SCHAPIRO.

DESTINATIONS: Galápagos and Costa Rica

- THE TRIP -

JORDAN GIRLS’ TRIP YEAR: 2022

Destination: Jordan Celebration: Birthday The Highlights: Petra, Wadi Rum, Wadi Mujib and floating in the Dead Sea

Favorite Memory: “Jordan was a milestone birthday girls’ trip that

TOP: PIA SILVESTRI; BOTTOM: JOSH LAUDER.

had been delayed for two years, due to the pandemic. It was absolutely worth the wait! From the very first day, our guide and driver became immediate friends. We couldn’t have been paired with two better people to complement our personalities. They were both knowledgeable, kind, considerate, patient, respectful and funny. They love what they do, are very proud of their country and want to share it with the world. From the bustle of Amman and the history of Jerash, to the ‘wow’ of Petra and vastness of Wadi Rum, rounding it out with hiking at Wadi Mujib and floating around in the Dead Sea. I felt incredibly lucky to be able to spend my birthday in this amazing country. A very special trip with memories that will last a lifetime.”—Pia Silvestri, Member since 2018

91

92

INDAGARE.COM

PHOTO CREDIT TKT

GROWING UP INDAGARE

Did travel help you discover a particular interest?

PHOTO CREDIT TKT

“Travel has helped me explore mindfulness. While traveling, I choose key moments for reflection, focusing on feeling complete in the moment. Wonder, awe and gratitude—I’m able to bring these back. While in Bagan, Myanmar, we drifted silently in a hot-air balloon as the sun rose high above the temples in the lush hills. Our guide gave us context for the spiritual significance and historical backdrop, which made it all the more meaningful.”—Josh Lauder, Member since 2016

93

EARS 15 Y E GA R INDA

- THE TRIP -

ULTIMATE SAFARI YEAR: 2018

happening upon a herd of elephants in Singita just as a rainstorm was clearing and the sky was glowing. My daughter Anna, now a professional videographer and photographer, took the most incredible photos.”

Most Memorable Moments: “Interactions with local tribes on walkabouts and village visits. Waking to peering eyes of animals grazing around us. So many more—too many to recount!!”

Favorite Hotel: “Singita Sabora (above right) was not only our favorite stay of the trip, but probably of all our travel experiences ever. If I had to pick one place I’ve traveled to return to in my life, without a doubt it would be Singita Sabora. Every aspect of it was perfection—the setting, quality and beauty of the spaces, the staff, the food… it was all just dreamlike. The guides and the camp were exceptional, even in comparison to some other fabulous stops along the way on this trip and prior trips we have taken to Africa. Without hesitation, when our family is asked whether we would like to go back, our answer is not if, but when—and soon!”—Member since 2014

GROWING UP INDAGARE

Do you have a favorite trip?

“I feel really lucky to get to travel to so many places—and to see all of the different cultures around the world. My favorite trip this year has been Sicily, because it was interesting to see Greek history but in Italy. I also loved the beaches and food ,of course!”—Hannah Makk, Member since 2017

94

INDAGARE.COM

TOP LEFT: ANNA BURNS PHOTOG RAPHY; TOP RIGHT: COURTESY SINGITA; BOTTOM, CATHERINE MAKK.

Destinations: Tanzania and Zanzibar The Highlight: “So many to choose from but I’d say

EARS 15 Y E GA R INDA

Duration: 30 Days Destinations: China and Mongolia Trip Highlight: “We spent a day in Mongolia with a paleontologist

- THE TRIP -

CHINA & MONGOLIA YEAR: 2019

ROB AND JEANNE C.

THE TRIP:

from the Mongolian Institute of Paleontology and Geology. We hiked the Flaming Cliffs to an active dinosaur dig. It was not only a beautiful hike—we learned so much about dinosaurs and how their remains are recovered… it was a highlight of our trip.”

Most Memorable Meal: “The street food tours in Shanghai and Chengdu. Food is culture, and eating everyday food is a great way to experience it. This should be a can’t-miss on all itineraries.”

Don’t Miss: “Try to build into your itinerary downtime to simply people-watch and take in daily life. We spent many hours strolling in parks or sitting down for a cup of tea. Watching the older generation line up for free haircuts in the park, participating in t’ai chi, playing mahjong, shopping in wet markets. You experience so much more of how the local people actually live their lives… it is a great addition to the ‘must-see’ attractions.”

Don’t Leave Home Without… “If you want access to Western medicines, bring a well-stocked travel medical kit. The pharmacies we shopped were well stocked with Eastern herbal-based medicine, but very little else.”—Rob and Jeanne C., Members since 2018

CROSS-COUNTRY BIKING | 2017

“To celebrate a birthday, my wife gifted me a cross-country biking trip from Seattle to Maine, and itinerary highlights included Middlebury, Vermont; Niagara Falls and the Erie Canal. It was more of an expedition than an athletic feat!”—Member since 2016

95

EARS 15 Y E GA R INDA

Duration: 6 Weeks Destinations: Mongolia (above

right), Ulaanbaatar, Beijing, Kyoto, Tokyo, Seoul, Hong Kong, Laos, Cambodia (above left), Singapore, Vietnam (Ho Chi Minh, Hoi An, Hanoi), Myanmar, Bhutan (Thimphu, Punakha, Paro)!

The Highlight: Touring in the Gobi Desert, Mongolia

TOP ASIAN CIRCUIT YEAR: 2017

Most Memorable Moment:

”This was the most professional and well organized trip we have ever done… the attention to detail was incredible. For me, the Gobi Desert in Mongolia was the highlight. Laos was amazing as well.”

—Gioia Bonomi, Member since 2014

GROWING UP INDAGARE

Did travel help you explore a particular passion?

“Absolutely! Travel helped me discover that travel itself is my passion, and Indagare helped introduce me to the world, and I feel certain that traveling so much during my formative years helped develop the adult I grew into. We’re so malleable when we’re young, and as a kid, traveling instilled in me a love for adventure, creativity, learning and new experiences—all of which have enhanced my life as I’ve gotten older.”—E.P., Member since 2007 96

INDAGARE.COM

TOP: GIOIA BONOMI; BOTTOM: EMMA PIERCE.

- THE TRIP -

OUR STYLE

OUR EXPERTISE

OUR ACCESS

Our goal is to make every journey unforgettable. We get to know you personally, in order to build a relationship with you and craft custom itineraries around your interests and passions to maximize your travel experiences and help you map your lifetime of travel journeys.

Our Trip Designers and staff are on the road as often as possible, so we can advise you thoughtfully with reliable, firsthand information to help you make informed decisions. We share real-time intel and feedback with our community, so you always have the best information to go on.

Meaningful interactions with our team guide you before, during and after a trip, allowing you to travel safely and responsibly. We include perks and access to the best rooms, villas and upgrades through long-standing relationships and open doors to experiences that are right for you.

INDAGARE

Bespoke Travel | Insider Journeys | Safaris | Family Trips | Celebrations | Sabbaticals

Let us help you make the most of your next trip. | 212-988-2611| membership@indagare.com 97

WHAT WILL YOUR NEXT INDAGARE JOURNEY BE? indagare.com

ELISE BRONZO

“The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have an endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun.“ —Christopher McCandless