the life aquatic

tanjong jara resort is the perfect starting point for a dive excursion exploring an extraordinary underwater realm.

As above, so below. In Dungun, Terengganu, the bucolic, coconut tree-lined seascapes of Tanjong Jara Resort are a glorious promise of what lies beneath the deep blue waters of the South China Sea. Scenic vistas and an architecture that references a 17th-century Malay palace provide an idyllic mise en scène at the resort, while the warm and communal culture of the Malays is felt from the minute of your arrival.

The resort’s many inviting lounge areas, a relaxing spa treatment or a dip in the pool may tempt you to spend your entire stay without even venturing out. Yet, for those eager to get back out into open water after a two-year hiatus, the siren call of the sea soon beckons. The resort is the perfect place from which to begin an epic dive excursion and explore Terengganu’s underwater majesty.

The scuba community heads out to Pulau Tenggol, an island located in the state’s Marine Park, 26km off the coast of Kuala Dungun. Named for the fact that it looks like a person perched by a cliff, Tenggol is the last in a series of islands strung like jade pearls that include the equally stunning Perhentian and Redang. The island had managed to stay undetected for decades and was used only as sanctuary by local fishermen during stormy weather. Its location was so closely guarded that some still refer to it as The Lost World.

A 45-minute boat ride transports you to the island’s shores anchored by a natural bay and characterised by 244m-tall cliffs. It is the bay’s warm, cocooned waters that provide a nurturing home in which sumptuous coral gardens bloom and grow, attracting an impressive marine biodiversity.

Tenggol is exceptional for its outstanding range of dive sites and divers enjoy 18 stunning locations around the island, with seven more on the satellite islands close by. Each location presents a remarkable and memorable experience. Snorkellers can enjoy the calm coral gardens of shallower waters, while seasoned divers can look forward to deeper dives, some sloping gently down to 20m below sea level. The most accomplished divers welcome the thrill of exploring a shipwreck in the deep or the challenge of drift dive, letting the currents sweep them through a free-form, Zen-like underwater discovery.

A different world, strange and new, awaits. Garden eels weave quickly away from sight, while turtles coast peacefully by, seemingly oblivious to the alien presence in front of it (that’s you, diver!). Swim alongside a school of groupers or spy on a cluster of clownfish. Delight in the many electrifying shapes and neon shades of the nudibranchs. Sea anemones wave a colourful welcome, while the spectacular green shade of wrasses catches your eye. Butterflyfish striped like underwater tigers, parrotfish with holographic, chrome-like bodies, and large snappers make regular appearances.

The tunnels and crevices found at Tokong Laut, one of Tenggol’s more popular sites, sees batfish and fusiliers while massive jackfish and kingfish make their presence known. At The Highway, advanced divers keep their eyes peeled for a glimpse of the elusive ghost ornate pipefish or, if they are lucky, the imposing figure of a spotted whale shark.

So entranced are you that you’d be hard pressed to surface and break for the lunch prepared by Tanjong Jara Resort’s chef. But break you must. Your delightful meal over the table on Tenggol means a chance to go through your best photos and humblebrag before heading out to sea again, fuelled by the desire to behold even more stunning treasures.

Tanjung Jara Resort’s carefully tailored courses cover a vast spectrum to include all manner of dive excursions, courses for children, awareness programmes on fish identification and coral reef conservation, even rescue and first aid courses. All include certification and manuals, and are taught by qualified PADI instructors. For more information, visit www.tanjongjararesort.com

Strawberry jam and plump strawberries are the stars of the English Afternoon Tea served at the Jim Thompson Tea Room along with oven-fresh pastries, delicate sandwiches, homemade scones, clotted cream and fine teas from Cameron Highlands.