NOSTALGIC P I R T To Grand Lake Lodge
BY BOB PHILLIPS
This is about a trip back in time made by Bob Phillips, a 1969 Grand Lake Lodge waiter. He is the producer of the Grand Lake Lodge Documentary "Stories of Grand Lake Lodge" www.storiesofgrandlakelodge
Friday, November 19, 2019 Bob Scott is out of town visiting with his cousin. Checked in at Western Riviera, Becka, young pretty and very nice checked me ion. Lake Side 1 room cabin with kitchenette and refrigerator. Buy two nights get one free. Only person in cabin #3, whole top level on the lake view all to myself according to Becka. I told her my friend, Bob Scott is out of town, told her worked at lodge with him. She said, “are you one of those guys in that documentary about the lodge?� Told her I produced it and wished I had brought a DVD I would get her one (Susan says mail her one-which I will do- get her address).
Had lunch at Sagebrush Inn before check in – had soup of day chicken chili- was delicious, Salmon ok but not best- wanted more soup but ate the salmon for protein. Waitress very nice but very spacey.
Went up to Grand Lake Lodge. 1st sign-Closed no trespassing—went past—next sign—no trespassing—went on through, up to lodge which was closed with a few trucks out front. Heard somebody doing carpentry, went to top of stairs- ran into the carpenter whom I first said Hi am Bob Phillips summer of 69—Bob Scott— Carpenter has worked there 35 years and for James family-
He was very laid back and nice (John Lakey) was replacing some of the posts on front porchhe said it had to be done-were rotting at the base (sad)- told him story from historian of GLL-and about his slide show that shows that the same dark marking in the 20’s photo is still there today (except it has now been replaced forever—should have asked what he is doing with the posts-could be sold or auctioned especially the spotted one). He said he is leaving this afternoon and will be gone through Thanksgiving. He said I could come by on Saturday- no one would be there and could drive or walk around the lodge.
He let me inside the very cold/winterized lodge completely dark and empty. He showed me some changes- garage doors, said at first, he was skeptical, but then really liked them-in summer they are open all the time and it gives more people that open porch feel. He took picture of me with fireplace and lobby in background.
He asked if I had all terrain wheels and I said yes, thank Advantage Rent a car, he said would be ok to drive around loopI did, was lonely and beautifully-what great views. Stopped and got out for fresh air.
and out to highway 34 going east—knew that it only went up so far in winter. Got to Park Gate and I said to the ranger- “think I have gone too far” and he said, “where are you going?” in a very almost seeming upset and frustrated way- I said I’m just driving. Asked how far up road went-he said 10 miles-I said ok, so if I continue on, I will be entering the park and would have to pay him something and he said yes, to which I immediately said “I believe Ill take a rain check—come another day”. And would it be ok if I went up made u turn and he said in nice way- that will be fine and I thanked him and did so.
Went back to cabin to write this while looking out a large window directly out to Grand Lake with that beautiful mountain just across the water. Absolutely beautiful. The maintenance man just happened to be working out on porch of my cabin area and was making a little noise and a distraction, but what do you want-100’s of tourists or 1 workman making a little noise? Am going to take walk along lake before sun goes down. Walked outside cabin and said hi to maintenance man who I had spoken to earlier told him-your job is never done and he said yes, and I will always have a job.
Asked him if the stairs out on deck went all the way down to the lake and he said yes and added, and the stairs are clear all the way downno ice. I said “thank you for the forewarning of good news” he laughed and said thank you.
Walked down to lake and saw sign with info about Grand Lake is Colorado’s largest natural lake (286 feet deep), created by glaciers (new name for that –see sign) and known as headwaters of the Colorado River-
and that water from this lake flows through a tunnel under the continental divide (Big Thompson project) to provide water to Estes Park- and east side of Rocky Mountains. Took 2 pics of sign and lake and first thought to send photos to LCRA contact-
Went up to historical hotel on lake-now museum and stood on front porch and witnessed the most beautiful view of lake and Mt. Baldy. Thought about how people in early 30’s brought up by horse and wagon to enjoy the beauty of grand lake, a wonderful moment— Stood on porch for at least 20 minutes and observed.
Friday night visited the old Foghorn Bar for first time since 1969 almost 50 years. Was always closed when visiting before. Manager/bartender Ryan took good care of mesuggested Vanilla Porter from Breckenridge. Talked up pizza.
Told him about beer drinking contest etc. From old days. Tried to remember the song by Creedence Clear Water Revival.
Went by Sagebrush and got a bowl of that fabulous chicken chili and took back to room and consumed.
Friday evening sat outside my cabin for almost 2 hours enjoying the beauty, peace and quiet. Had place all to myself. Thought some people were pulling up to check-in to cabin down the way, but thankfully they were employees emptying trash etc. Realized that the long socks Susan bought me 1 year ago were working fabulously this evening— feet and legs warm in 28 degrees weather just sitting. When I took the socks out of the package for the first time, realized that Susan bought them for me to wear around the house, and all this time I was saving them to wear outside in cold weather.
Saturday am Alarm went off at 6:30 am. Drank water, made coffee and walked down by the lake. Nice and cold outside. Then the block walk to the Sagebrush for breakfast at 7:45am. Got a booth by the window. Lots of groups of locals all came at 8am. Had scrambled eggs, wheat toast, and bacon crisp (not as crisp as second day later). Delicious though.
Then drove to Adams falls and hiked to there. Was struck by how few trees there are now thanks to the pine beetle. Created some nice far away views though. Snow and ice on the trail and had to be very cautious with each step.
Then up to Grand Lake Lodge for a once in a lifetime visit—all closed for winter and absolutely no one there but me. Stayed there and really took everything in for about 3-4 hours. Revisited steps from my cabin to Sherry’s (my girl friend at the time) after a late night—put on video with narration. Saw different views and perspectives I never saw before.
Thinking back to our family of kids from all over nation safely tucked away up on the hillside with the best view of Grand Lake.
All in cabins on hillside with lots of pine trees to hide the view and each other.
Realized this place was the number one in my life when it comes to shortest distance to living and working. 200 feet from my hidden cabin to separate cabin to shower etc. And only 200 feet from my cabin to employee cafeteria and then only steps through the door to wait on tables and then 200 feet back to my cabin. Had my own private parking place next to my cabin where my Pontiac was one of the only cars of the 100 plus employees and used to drive it down with a group to the Foghorn bar where we consumed generous amounts of 3.2 beer—the only legal beer for those under 21 and I was 19. Creedence Clear Water Revival was one of the groups dominating the juke box sounds. Rolling on the River.
After walking up the hill from hell- went back to lodge and wondered at the building itself built in 1929 and still standing tall and proud.
Examined closely the outside part of the stone fireplace—a thing of beauty I passed many a time on my way to the Employee cafeteria for a meal and never ever glanced at it or gave it the time of day—oh the wasted beauty on the young.
Peeked into the old cafeteria through the back door where some one had split the screen open so a good view through the window was allowed
—The same floor and maybe even the same old furniture from 1969.
And even walked all the way around the back of building which is the first time I believe I ever did that. In 1969—Louie the old cantankerous bailer man lived and worked back there—so best to avoid him. Then in future years the lodge was always open, so I didn’t feel I was allowed in the so called back of the house.
Saw the loading dock and downstairs walkway around the side and front of Lodge—Never spent any tine here but maybe a late-night party in the 69’s.
Sat out on one of the chairs for a long-time enjoying view.
When first arrived at lodge this morning thought about taking a piece of history home (one of the smaller pine wood railings) but thought again about how to get it home on plane, or about the overhead camera on the front porch and off to side of building overlooking entry onto steps. But logic took over and no artifacts were taken from the site.
Went up to girl’s dorm and sat on little porch looking up street toward cabins and noticed that Ford Cabin had straight on view of girl’s dorm.
Wondered if anyone staying in the Ford Cabin over the years ever wondered into treacherous territory with one of the young girls who worked there.
Sat inside on the screened porch of Ford Cabin for first time ever (lodge was always open) and watched it snow.
Sat at girl’s dorm bench and watched the snowstorm come in over the mountains- started to snow big flakes beautiful, another view I never took in with views over the old barn and wood shed to cabins to lodge. Went for closer examination of barn and wood shed. Wanted to legally take history home, so scrapped some flakes off the old original wood of woodshed to take home. Thought about how in 1969 I use to frequent the woodshed to get wood for the wood burning stove in my cabin. They also took the wood shaving and added kerosene which made for great kindling.
Sunday Evening Went back up to the Grand Lake Lodge about 2:39 pm with full batteried camera and took hundreds of shots and videos—absolutely a fantastic day of cold and natural beauty. Had unfettered outside access to all buildings and 55 acres all to myself peace, quiet, solitude. Hard to imagine that there are but very few days anyone could have as much time completely alone at Grand Lake Lodge as I did. It was a very special unexpected part of the trip—didn't dream I would get an opportunity to snoop around the lodge once it was closed. And am so happy I got permission to walk around with no one there. This was an experience and adventure me or another lodge lover would have paid big $$ to be a part of. Was in the right place at the right time
Danced to “Don’t Stop the Party” by Pit Bull at least 10 times on screened in porch of Ford Cabin. How many people have done that at a revered, historical, famous national park lodge of the 1920’s, 49 years after working there. Got me to thinking that I high tailed it out of there in 1969 before labor day along with Avey Burch and the chef—with absolutely no notice and drove back to Texas the same day and left Sherry (girlfriend) behind with not so much as a good bye or a hint I was leaving. She was at Trail Ridge Store. How immature I was at 19.
Took up a Heineken and drank it late on the lower front porch. Before I left, went all the way down to Nuptial point and saw the most beautiful view of the day, and of course my phone is out of juice, so no Photos. Saw the most beautiful sunset with pinkish red clouds over Baldy and the lake. The water in lake had same color as beautiful clouds above, Oh what I would have done to take a picture of this majesty, but then, told myself that this was a show God is putting on just for me (made me forget about getting that next great picture and just start enjoying God’s show) just live that 5 minutes at a time.
As the light of the sun kept disappearing from the base of Baldy right up to the peak, and clouds started to dim, the color of water in lake changed into the blue/black natural color. As the sky darkened, I made my way up the steps to the car. But halfway up there was short trail across hill to a viewing stand where I walked to and saw there another perspective angle on Grand Lake.
The whole weekend at Grand Lake Lodge was made up of different view points seen by lack of trees and my placement around the lodge, with enough time and privacy to fully enjoy this majestic place. Will forever think of the lodge in this beautiful remote, after the fact sort of way—Its kind of like doing the Aquarena Documentary where after the fact—I felt I had totally chewed it up and spit it out.
The whole emotional tug- am very lucky that my life has outlived Aquarena and now in a sort of different way (since most of lodge is still intact) feel same about Grand Lake Lodge—once you have a chance to hang out and contemplate the physical part from every angle, and at same time think of past memories—seems to take all the mystery out of it. I lived it years ago, processed it into my life past and present—and feel blessed that I had the opportunity to experience both places in my life.
Sunday evening about 6pm took 1st shower of day and headed over to Sagebrush for a beer and something to eat. Bar was empty so sat down for a vanilla porter and more chicken chili. A few minutes after sitting a young lady in Big Coat, hood and skull cap sat down 2 chairs down. I overheard her order chicken chili and leaned over and said I had it the other day and it was delicious—got to talking and learned that she worked at sagebrush and waited on me the last 2 mornings.
Didn’t recognize each other at first, she had hat on, and I didn’t at bar. She said she also worked at lodge as waitress last summer and lived in cabin just next to lodge (on roadway in front of lodge to my old cabin) She also lived there for 2 weeks after lodge closed. She and I both discussed how lucky we were to be in such a pristine beautiful place and have it all to ourselves. There are not very many people who can say that. I asked her if she ever sat on screened in porch swing at the Ford Cabin and she said no I haven’t done that. It just put me in a rarer classification of GLL alum.
Didn’t tell her I danced on porch to the music of Pit Bull singing “Don’t Stop the Party”- which should guarantee my place in an even-rarer classification hierarchy. When doing my dance, I actually felt on top of the world and was celebrating the lodge and all those that have worked there- again thanking God for the wonderful life he has given me including bringing Susan into my life with her unconditional love for me and my unconditional love for her. It was magical.
Told the lady at bar (Allison) about my documentary and will send her a copy and she is really interested in my re-edited version I told her about and that it will also be streaming. She mentioned that Ron, The GM of Sagebrush has accepted the new position as GM of Grand like Lodge. She said he would probably be interested in seeing doc and would tell him about it. Also told Allison about the front porch lodge pole from the 1920's with the marking on it and it was proven history (history slide show photo proof from Gary) and it should be saved. I should follow up with Ron to see about the post and if he would like to sell the documentary at the lodge.
She said Ron was a great mgr. and would bring back better culture at lodge. He was a local guy who everyone knows. She agreed with me the former GM of Lodge who I met 4 years ago was an asshole. Told her that any manager cannot expect employees to be any better than they are on their worst day. And if the past GM was an asshole, the employees would not be much better.
Monday Morning Woke at 6:30 am alarm went off 6:45 am-drank water---lake foggy, fixed 4 cups of Starbucks Sumatra and it tasted thin, so I made a heavier pot. Walked over 1 block to Sagebrush for breakfast. Same waitress as Friday –very nice, 3 scrambled crisp bacon, wheat toast. Met the owner, David Fleming since 1999. He and Bob Scott on Theatre Board. He said Grand County Sherriff in 1973 stopped all Hells Angels at Berthoud pass and turned them away. I told him at winter time Grand Lake is like Americas most beautiful cul de sac. Since Trail Ridge Road closed in winter- only 1 way in and 1 way out, and with far less people.
Drove to inlet and south side of lake along mountain road. I had always felt sorry for those people because their view back toward the Grand Lake Lodge on the hillside didn’t compare to views of the mountains behind them and mount Baldy. However, their views are spectacular of distant Never Summer Mountains and others--- very majestic.
Got late check out to 1 pm. Went to office and they were putting up Christmas Tree in lobby and I had them take photo of me and Becca, the lady I’m sending the doc to.
Before checkout saw a Christmas, tree being installed in the middle of Grand Blvd or main street. Talked to guy putting it up (video tapped him but ran out of space on phone). He said tree lighting ceremony is on Friday. Left Grand Lake stopped in Black Hawk for excellent Cheeseburger at the Gilfin Hotel and Casino and then flight home to Flower Mound, Texas.
For more information on Bob Phillips' Documentary about the Grand Lake Lodge go to www.storiesofgrandlakelodge.com