FASHION AS

The fashion industry is one of immense creativity, growth and opportunity. It is an industry that permeates every aspect of society, that connotes red carpets, dramatic make-up, flawless faces, glamour and exclusivity. Just out of reach, the world of fashion has long sat on a pedestal of celebrity, status and talent. But there’s another side to fashion: expression of culture, sexuality and identity. This trickles down to the rest of society, and encourages people to liberate their true selves. How has fashion been used since the 20th century to break through social norms and encourage self-expression?

Whilst fashion can be a tool of empowerment and expression, it also has a place in history as a tool of oppression and control. Current trends are not devoid of these influences. However, leaps and bounds have been made since the days of whale-bone corsets and lead-based makeup. Designers have moved with, adapted and influenced culture to ensure the world of fashion moves with, and often ahead of, society. Women’s fashion has historically been characterised by the patriarchy - used to signify worth, status and desirability. Through her designs, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, not only created revolutionary pieces that redefined fashion but inspired a movement of freedom. Liberating women from the constraints of restrictive clothing, Chanel’s work embodied one of her most famous sentiments:

“Nothing is more beautiful than the freedom of the body.” She created piece after piece that accomplished this. From bringing women’s trousers into mainstream fashion to the genius of the Little Black Dress’s simplicity that became a staple in every woman’s wardrobe, Coco Chanel pushed women to dress for themselves and for their comfort. The Chanel Suit was another one of these pieces. In contrast to women deliberately wearing men’s clothing, it was transformative for women in business. Elegant, aesthetic and professional, it epitomises Coco Chanel’s contribution to fashion impacting women’s liberation. In those decades and the ones that followed, designers tried to highlight women’s femininity as something to be heightened rather than covered up. However, some in the fashion realm remained governed by the male gaze. Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ was distinguishable by its cinched waist, rounded shoulders and very full skirt. It aimed to reimagine women’s fashion after World War II. Although it took inspiration from eras past, particularly the 1920s and the late 19th century, Dior’s first collection was a stark contrast from the military fashion of the years before. Women’s fashion during WWII revolved around practicality and fabric rationing. The ‘New Look’ collection was the opposite; it accentuated and emphasised the female body with luxurious fabric creating an air of opulence and grandeur.