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food • travel • wellbeing

Feel good

summer

EASY ENTERTAINING WINS AND ELEGANT ESCAPES

SUMMER EDIT 2026

Toasted coconut and mango tres leches cake

SUNSHINE ON A PLATE EFFORTLESS RECIPES FOR LAZY DAYS

WHERE TO HEAD TO AVOID THE CROWDS

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food • travel • wellbeing

COOLCATION DISCOVERIES

Editor’s letter

love having people round for a summery gettogether but my hosting style can be a bit ramshackle. I don’t have proper outdoor furniture, my crockery is mismatched and my small garden is still very much a work in progress. But I also know that if I serve up a crowd-pleasing recipe, mix a frosty cocktail and put on some music then none of that matters. Luckily this issue we’ve got hit after summer hit to satisfy any guest – from a halloumi and roasted vegpacked crunchy filo pie (p22) to Manon Lagrève’s delicate apricot frangipane tart (p36) and Georgina Hayden’s spiced roasted salmon (p58). And don’t forget to shake up one of our Hannah’s fruity, tequila-spiked cocktails to really get the party started (p68). Travel-wise this issue we are looking at some alternatives to the well-trodden summer destinations. Places like Lithuania, north-western Greece and the Azores archipelago of Portugal all offer unique (and quieter) escapes for the curious traveller, as well as incredible food scenes – and you won’t be fighting for a table booking. You’ve probably come across the latest health buzz word, fibermaxxing – but what is it and what does it actually mean? Nutritionist Rhiannon Lambert cuts through the hype on page 134 and shares recipes that will balance your fibre intake, sensibly and naturally.

COVER PHOTOGRAPH: ANT DUNCAN. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR. PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPH: CHRIS TERRY

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Head to @olivemagazine on Instagram to see our creators and chefs bring recipes, restaurants and destinations to life. 3

food 7

What to cook now

Feel-good hits of the summer

Ideas that make the most of seasonal produce.

Sharing dishes for relaxed alfresco dining.

Gurd Loyal’s hot takes

La vie est belle

Our trends expert shares a tart from France’s Picardy region. Manon Lagrève puts a French twist on her entertaining menu.

Shelf love

Fresh ways to use limoncello, including a zesty twist on tiramisu.

Edd Kimber’s modern baking A summery mash-up of two retro desserts.

Signature dishes

Wine 101

Learn about Austria’s up-andcoming Neusiedlersee wine region.

Barhopper

Slow travel

Wilderness havens

Why I love Toronto

Spicy sharers

Tequila meets chilli in these fruity summer cocktails.

Aperitif hour

The best bottles and barware.

Kenji Morimoto shares recipes that spotlight fermentation.

143 Recipe index

A plate in the sun

145 Verna eats Colombia

Impressive entertaining dishes from Georgina Hayden.

travel

Our columnist recreates a traditional breakfast dish.

Where to enjoy the best agave spirits. Take a relaxed trip through the historic Spanish city of Cádiz. Three calming retreats that prioritise wellbeing and relaxation. Discover the Canadian city’s diverse food scene.

100 Cook like a local

Recreate traditional Ukrainian dishes from the city of Odesa at home.

Contents SUMMER EDIT

122

wellbeing

122 Easy seasonal nourishment

106 Spotlight on Norfolk

Head to the coastal county for stunning scenery and fantastic food.

114 Best coolcations

Escape to cooler climates to beat the summer heat and the crowds.

119 My London

Our top foodie picks in west London.

Healthy vegetarian recipes for summer.

128 A complete guide to summer skincare

How to find the best SPF for your skin, according to experts.

134 Fibremaxxing

The truths behind the latest health trend, plus three recipes to try.

don’t miss 16

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132 Reader offer

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133 Coming next issue

Find out what’s in store in your next edition of olive.

120 Weekender

Must-visit stops in Amsterdam.

New faces at

OL IV E

We’re delighted to welcome to Alexina Anatole to the olive team – follow us on TikTok and Instagram to see what she’s cooking up @olivemagazine.

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Alexina is a writer, cook, presenter and regular supper club host, based in London. Born in Brighton but growing up in Paris and London, Alexina is of mixed heritage – the granddaughter of chicken farmers from Cambridgeshire and Saint Lucian grandparents who arrived in London during the Windrush movement – and her upbringing drove her passion for food. Her debut cookbook, Bitter, was released in 2023, followed by Sweet in 2025. Her new weekly video series for olive ‘One Good Thing’ aims to elevate your entertaining in one simple step, bringing to life an easy recipe for you to recreate at home. Beyond the books and television work, Alexina runs sell-out events, including including intimate supper clubs and creative pop-ups.

W WHAT TO COOK T NOW

Make the most of the season’s best produce as summer settles in Recipes KATY GREENWOOD Photographs MOWIE KAY

Runner bean and chorizo salad with whipped feta This summer salad is a great use of the humble runner bean. Try to find young tender beans if you can but this also works with bigger more firm specimens, though with these you will need to remove the tough strings that run down the side of the beans for easier eating. SERVES 2 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY 300g small waxy potatoes, thinly sliced 2 tbsp olive oil 100g greek yogurt 150g feta, crumbled ½ small red onion, thinly sliced 1 tbsp sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar 250g runner beans, trimmed and stringed if large 200g cooking chorizo sausages, sliced diagonally into thirds handful each of mint leaves and basil leaves, shredded Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 and line a large baking tray with baking paper. Toss the potatoes with 1 tbsp of the oil and arrange on the baking tray, making sure they are in one layer, then season with salt and pepper. Bake for 20 mins. Meanwhile, whizz the yogurt and feta in a blender until thick and fairly smooth (a few little lumps of feta are okay) – I find it best to pulse in the blender, otherwise it will become runny. Taste and season if needed. Toss the sliced onion with the vinegar in a small bowl. Toss the beans and chorizo with the remaining oil, and a little salt and pepper, and arrange on top of the potatoes. Return to the oven for 10 mins. To serve, spread the feta over the base of a serving plate or two individual plates. Tumble over the beans, potatoes and chorizo, followed by the onions and any remaining vinegar, and scatter over the herbs.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: LAURIE NEWMAN. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY STEPHENSON

PER SERVING 900 kcals • fat 64G • saturates 27G carbs 34G • sugars 10G • fibre 7G • protein 43G • salt 5.5G

Briam I like to think of this Greek-style vegetable bake as a version of ratatouille with added potatoes, and if you can find Cyprus potatoes, all the better. The hardest part is slicing the vegetables but once that’s done it’s simple and no need to be precious about the arrangement – higgledy-piggledy will be perfect, so that every serving gets some of each vegetable. SERVES 6 | PREP 30 MINS | COOK 1 HR 5 MINS | EASY 2 aubergines 2 courgettes 500g potatoes, peeled 2 small red onions 500g large tomatoes 100ml olive oil 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 11/2 tsp dried oregano 1 heaped tsp fresh thyme leaves, plus extra sprigs 400g tin of chopped tomatoes Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Slice the aubergines, courgettes, potatoes, onions and tomatoes into ½cm slices. In a small jug, mix the oil with 1 grated garlic clove, ½ tsp of the oregano and the thyme leaves. Put the aubergines, courgettes and potatoes into a large bowl, and pour half this oil over, season and toss to coat. Tip the chopped tomatoes into the base of a 28cm x 22cm baking dish, add the remaining garlic and oregano, and season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Stir together. Layer up the sliced vegetables on top of the tomato base, adding the slices of tomato and onions in with the other vegetables. Once everything is fitted in snugly, pour over the remaining herby oil and top with a few thyme sprigs. Cover with foil and bake for 40 mins until the potatoes are softened. Remove the foil and bake for another 20-25 mins to colour and crisp up the vegetables. Serve as a side dish to roast lamb or as a veggie main course. PER SERVING 271 kcals • fat 16G • saturates 2G carbs 24G • sugars 9G • fibre 6G • protein 5G • salt 0G

Gooseberry custard tart This dessert makes the most of gooseberries, pairing their tart flavour perfectly with soft creamy custard. I love the tender pastry that a combination of plain and self-raising flour creates but if you don’t have the time or inclination to make pastry, feel free to use ready-made shortcrust instead. SERVES 10 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 1 HR | EASY 120g plain flour 50g self-raising flour 85g unsalted butter, cold, cubed 2 tbsp elderflower cordial FILLING 150ml double cream 2 egg yolks (freeze the whites for another recipe) 50g caster sugar 2 tsp elderflower cordial 325g gooseberries Put the flours and a pinch of salt into a food processor, and whizz briefly. Add the butter and whizz again until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs, then, with the processor running, drizzle in the cordial and continue to whizz until the mixture starts to come together. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and bring together to form a round disc. Wrap and chill for 20 mins. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Roll out the pastry to a circle just bigger than a 23cm wide, 2cm deep tart tin. Line the tin with the pastry, gently pressing the edges into the sides. Trim the pastry to just above the lip of the tin. Cut a round of baking paper to fit and fill with baking beans or dry rice. Blind bake for 15 mins, then remove the beans and paper, and return to the oven for 5 mins – the pastry should be golden and feel sandy to the touch. In a jug, beat together the cream, yolks, sugar and cordial. Leaving the tin on the oven shelf, tumble in the gooseberries and pour over the custard mixture. Bake for 30-35 mins until set. Remove from the oven and leave to cool completely before slicing and serving. PER SERVING 244 kcals • fat 17G • saturates 10G carbs 20G • sugars 7G • fibre 2G • protein 3G • salt 0.3G

Blueberry loaf cake I adore the crispy top of this cake: the sweet crunch is a lovely foil to the juicy blueberries. This is great as a piece of cake on its own but also delicious served with a scoop of crème fraîche for dessert. SERVES 10 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS COOLING | COOK 1 HR 10 MINS | EASY 175g unsalted butter, softened 175g golden caster sugar, plus 1 tbsp for the top 3 eggs ½ lemon, zested and juiced 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 tbsp milk 225g blueberries 175g self-raising flour 50g ground almonds crème fraîche, to serve (optional) Butter and line a 900g loaf tin with baking paper. Heat the oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 3. Beat the butter and sugar in a large bowl until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time, mixing thoroughly after each addition. If the mixture looks a bit curdled, stir in a spoonful of the flour to bring it back together. Stir in the lemon zest and juice, vanilla and milk with a pinch of salt. Toss 175g of the blueberries with the flour, then stir into the wet mixture with the almonds. Spoon into the prepared tin, smooth the top and scatter over the remaining blueberries and 1 tbsp of sugar. Bake in the middle of the oven for 1 hr 10 mins or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tin for 10 mins, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely. Serve in slices with a dollop of crème fraîche, if you like. PER SERVING 329 kcals • fat 19G • saturates 10G carbs 33G • sugars 20G • fibre 1G • protein 5G • salt 0.2G

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Feel-good hits of the

SUMMER Crowd-pleasing dishes to make, bring and share with friends in the sun Words and recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs ANT DUNCAN

Summer dips sharing board Everyone loves a dip and this sharing board mixes up creamy goat’s cheese with tangy beetroot and a spicy olive oil for the ultimate mix and match combo. Serve with lots of colourful vegetables and buttery, herby flatbreads. SERVES 6-8 | PREP 30 MINS | COOK 5 MINS | EASY WHIPPED GOAT’S CHEESE DIP 125g soft rindless goat’s cheese 3 tbsp greek yogurt ½ lemon, zested, plus a squeeze of juice 1 tbsp date syrup toasted walnuts, broken into small shards BEETROOT DIP 200g cooked beetroot 75g soft cheese 1 /2 garlic clove, crushed 1 tsp sherry vinegar dill, chopped black onion seeds olive oil OLIVE OIL DIP 100ml olive oil 1 tbsp baby capers aleppo chilli flakes rosemary, chopped 1 tbsp pomegranate molasses ZA’ATAR HERB FLATBREADS 6 puffy flatbreads 30g butter chives and parsley, finely chopped za’atar aleppo chilli flakes TO SERVE focaccia squares, multicoloured baby carrots, sugar snap peas, nocellara olives, breadsticks, pear wedges and halved breakfast radishes To make the goat’s cheese dip, whizz the cheese in a small food processor with the yogurt, lemon zest and juice, and a little salt until smooth. Spread over a plate or shallow bowl, drizzle with the date syrup and scatter with the walnut shards.

To make the olive oil dip, mix the ingredients together in a shallow bowl. To make the flatbreads, heat the breads in an oven or under a grill until piping hot. Melt the butter and mix in the herbs, za’atar and chilli. Brush over the breads then cut into wedges. Arrange everything on a large board with the veg and serve. PER SERVING (8) 567 kcals • fat 26G • saturates 9G carbs 63G • sugars 11G • fibre 4G • protein 17G • salt 1.6G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

To make the beetroot dip, put everything except the dill and seeds in a food processor, and whizz until smooth. Spread on a shallow bowl and top with the dill, sesame seeds and a drizzle of olive oil.

Honey roast halloumi and summer veg spiral pie This giant filo pie is filled with honey and harissaspiked veg and halloumi, and served with a creamy tahini, lemon and yogurt dip. Rolling the filling into a sausage then baking in a spiral not only looks impressive but means you get a perfect ratio of filling to crunchy filo. Make sure the filo is brushed generously with butter and not packed too tightly to stop it from splitting when forming the spiral. If it does split just patch it up with a little more buttered filo. SERVES 8 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 1 HR 15 MINS | EASY

Rolling the filling into a sausage then baking in a spiral not only looks impressive but means you get a perfect ratio of filling to crunchy filo

2 red peppers, diced 2 red onions, diced 1 butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1cm cubes 3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for the tin 2 blocks of halloumi, thickly sliced 2 tbsp harissa 2 tbsp honey 10-12 filo sheets 100g butter, melted sesame seeds YOGURT TAHINI DIP 2 tbsp tahini 1 lemon, juiced ½ garlic clove, crushed 4 tbsp greek yogurt Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the peppers, onions and squash in a large baking tray, toss with the oil and season. Roast for 20-25 mins or until just tender – it will get further cooking in the pie so don’t let it get too mushy. Fry the halloumi until light golden on each side then dice each piece into similar sizes to the veg and add to the tin along with the harissa and honey. Mix everything together and cool. Generously brush a filo sheet with butter, then lay another sheet on top and brush with more butter. Lay about a fifth of the filling loosely along the longest side then roll up into a sausage, brushing as you roll. Take an oiled 35cm circular baking tin and, starting in the middle, curl the sausage to make a spiral. Repeat with the rest of the filo and filling, adding the pieces of rolled filo until you have a giant spiral. Brush with more butter and scatter with sesame seeds. Bake for 40-45 mins or until golden and crisp. To make the dip, put the tahini in a bowl then whisk in enough ice-cold water to make a smooth dip. It will thicken at first then loosen up. Add the lemon juice, garlic and a good pinch of salt. Stir in the yogurt and serve alongside the pie. PER SERVING 543 kcals • fat 33G • saturates 18G carbs 37G • sugars 15G • fibre 5G • protein 22G • salt 2.5G

Chargrilled bang bang chicken noodle salad A fresh, vibrant, hearty salad of slippery noodles with crunchy, zingy veg and a rich ginger peanut sauce. If you are transporting, keep the dressing in a separate tub and toss together at the table. Serve with extra chilli crisp oil so people can control their own heat level. SERVES 6 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY 4 skinless chicken breasts, butterflied flavourless oil, such as rapeseed 180g flat rice noodles (about 4 nests) 4 carrots, shredded 5 spring onions, shredded ½ cucumber, seeds scooped out and cut into batons 100g sugar snap peas, halved lengthways 1 red chilli, sliced 1 lime, juiced sesame oil handful of coriander leaves and thai basil leaves PEANUT DRESSING 4 tbsp dark roast crunchy peanut butter 1 tbsp finely grated ginger ½ garlic clove, crushed 2 limes, juiced 1 tbsp rice vinegar 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp sesame oil chilli crisp oil, for drizzling Heat the griddle to high. Rub the chicken all over with oil then season well. Griddle for 3-4 mins on each side until cooked through, then rest under a loose sheet of foil. Drop the noodles into a pan of boiling water then take off the heat and leave for a few minutes until just tender. Drain, rinse under cold water then drain well again. Drizzle the veg with the lime juice and a little sesame oil, and season with salt. Put the peanut dressing ingredients (except the chilli oil) into a bowl. Whisk, adding a few tbsp of cold water until you have a drizzly dressing. To serve, arrange the noodles on a platter, slice the chicken and pile on top, then add the veg and drizzle generously with the dressing. Spoon a little chilli oil on top then scatter with coriander and thai basil leaves. PER SERVING 370 kcals • fat 12G • saturates 1G carbs 33G • sugars 8G • fibre 5G • protein 32G • salt 1.2G

Toasted coconut and mango tres leches cake Subbing in double cream for butter is an easy method which gives a light but firm sponge. In this Mexicaninspired recipe sweetened milks are spooned over after baking for extra moisture, then topped with a pillowy coconut cream, toasted coconut flakes and mango for sunshine on a plate. SERVES 12-15 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS COOLING AND CHILLING COOK 45 MINS | EASY 300g caster sugar 4 eggs 400ml double cream 2 tsp coconut extract 350g self-raising flour ½ tsp baking powder MILK MIXTURE 200ml coconut milk 100ml condensed milk 100ml whole milk 2 tbsp coconut rum COCONUT TOPPING 2 tbsp icing sugar 2 tbsp coconut rum 500ml double cream TO SERVE 1-2 mangoes, peeled and diced toasted coconut flakes

This cake is topped with a pillowy coconut cream, toasted coconut flakes and ripe, juicy mang fo sunshine on a plate

Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Butter and line a deep 32cm x 23cm baking tin. Whisk the sugar and eggs in a large bowl using electric beaters until pale and thick. Add the cream and coconut extract, and whisk for 1 min. Fold in the flour and baking powder using a large spoon or spatula. Pour into the tin then bake for 45 mins or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Cool completely, then remove the baking paper and sit the cake back in the tin. Prick heavily all over with a wooden skewer, going all the way through the cake. Mix together the milks and rum, then spoon over the top in three stages, letting each soak into the cake before adding the next. Whisk together the icing sugar and coconut rum, then whisk in the cream until thickened. Spread over the cake, then chill for 1 hr or until you want to serve. To serve, scatter with the mango and coconut flakes, then cut into squares. PER SERVING (15) 576 kcals • fat 38G • saturates 24G carbs 48G • sugars 31G • fibre 2G • protein 7G • salt 0.4G

PHOTOGRAPH: ANT DUNCAN. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

Gurd

HOT

Loyal’s

T TAKES

Trends expert Gurd Loyal shares a recipe that’s having a moment online and in the restaurant world – right now it’s this hyperregional French tart

his traditional savoury tart from northern France is especially associated with the Picardy region and showcases slow-cooked leeks as a star ingredient. These are combined with crème fraîche and eggs, then baked in pastry, creating something between a rustic quiche, a tart and a country pie. It evokes fond memories for Pascal Wiedemann, chef and co-owner of Pompette restaurant in Oxford. “I love its simplicity and comforting nature,” he explains. “I’ve enjoyed it on breaks to Lille and it’s always completely hit the spot. Like all good dishes, it requires the best ingredients and real consideration with regards to every step of the process.” The leeks are best sliced thinly and slowly sautéed in butter until tender and sweet. Pascal elaborates: “Always ensure the leeks are properly cooked before making the filling – no one likes a flamiche with a squeaky leek. A splash of white wine vinegar brings welcome acidity and brightness, then use the very best crème fraîche you can find. I also like a generous grating of nutmeg, so it’s noticeable and not incidental.” For the crust you can either opt for a shortcrust shell, create something closer to a brioche-like pillowy pizza dough or opt for flaky puff pastry from a packet, as I have here. Some recipes add bacon, although Pascal believes it can overpower and that you’re better off opting for a good cheese for added flavour. “If wanting to add a little cheese,” he suggests, “maroilles is a great choice. It’s a pungent washed rind cow’s milk cheese from the north of France. It takes the flamiche away from its classic flavours but is undeniably delicious and hits the spot for any lover of strong cheeses.” Alternatively, a good Alpine cheese like an aged gruyère or comte works well. A flamiche is usually served warm but it’s ideal to have cold for an early summer picnic. Its popularity right now stems from the explosion of interest in hyper-regional French food championed by restaurants Camille in Borough Market, Josephine Bistro in Marylebone and The Wellington in Margate.

Leek, gruyère and asparagus flamiche SERVES 4-6 | PREP 30 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY 60g butter olive oil, for frying 500g leeks, halved, washed and chopped 1 large onion, sliced pinch of sugar 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 320g sheet of ready-rolled puff pastry 4 large garlic cloves, grated 10g tarragon, finely chopped 120ml crème fraîche 175g aged gruyère, grated 2 eggs 10 asparagus spears, trimmed 12 pitted black olives 1 /4 tsp grated nutmeg green salad, dressed, to serve Gently melt the butter with a splash of oil in a deep frying pan over a medium heat. Add the leeks and onion with a generous pinch of fine salt. Cook for 15-20 mins until they are soft and taking on a tint of brown. Add the sugar and vinegar, and cook for 3-4 mins until the liquid has been absorbed. Remove the onion and leeks to a large mixing bowl and leave to cool to room temperature. Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Roll the pastry onto a baking sheet, keeping the paper underneath. Use a knife to score a 1cm border around the pastry. Add the garlic, tarragon and crème fraîche to the leeks, mixing well. Mix in 150g of gruyère and the eggs, then spread onto the puff pastry, ensuring everything stays inside the scored border. Slice the asparagus heads through the middle, then lay them criss-crossed over the top of the tart. Put an olive in the middle of each diamond, sprinkle over the remaining gruyère, then sprinkle over the nutmeg. Bake for 30-35 mins, turning the baking sheet halfway so it bakes evenly, until golden brown on top and puffed up in the middle. Leave to rest for 5 mins before slicing. Enjoy either hot or cold with a dressed green salad, if you like. PER SERVING (6) 574 kcals • fat 44G • saturates 24G carbs 25G • sugars 6G • fibre 6G • protein 17G • salt 1.4G

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La vie est belle

An elegant entertaining menu with a French accent from Manon Lagrève Recipes MANON LAGRÈVE Photographs NASSIMA ROTHACKER 31

Menu Warm tomato salad French garlic bread Provençal tuna casserole Apricot frangipane tart

Salade de tomates chaudes

Warm tomato salad I know, you might have to be convinced to give this recipe a go but I promise you that every single person who tries this ends up making it on repeat. The warm tomatoes create the dressing and it has all the intense tomato flavour a salad could ever need. SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 /2 tsp herbes de Provence 40g pine nuts 200g cherry tomatoes, sliced 1 large beef tomato, thinly sliced 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar handful of croutons 1 burrata ball handful of basil leaves (green or purple) Heat half the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and cook the garlic for a few minutes, then add the herbs, pine nuts and cherry tomatoes. Cook for a few minutes, then squish the tomatoes with a spoon so they release their juices. Add 2 tbsp of water. Arrange the beef tomato slices on a serving plate and season with salt and pepper, and the remaining oil and vinegar. Add the croutons. Top the sliced tomato with the warm tomatoes, then put the burrata in the middle and sprinkle with the basil and some more olive oil.

Cocotte de thon à la Provençale

Provençal tuna casserole To me this tastes just like summer in the south of France. A delicious fish stew that everyone will love, it’s perfect served with pearl barley or some cooked rice, and I love it with a dollop of aïoli on top. You can make this stew with any fish you have to hand. Reduce the simmering time to 20 mins for white fish, salmon or trout. SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 1 HR | EASY 4 tbsp olive oil 2 onions, thinly diced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 red pepper, sliced 1 green pepper, sliced 800g tuna steaks 200ml dry white wine 400g fresh or tinned tomatoes, diced 100g pitted black olives 1 tsp herbes de Provence TO SERVE baguette, cooked pearl barley or rice handful of sage leaves aïoli Heat half the oil in a casserole dish over a medium heat and gently fry the onions for a few minutes until softened. Add the garlic and cook for another minute or two, then add the peppers and cook for 5 mins. Transfer to a bowl.

Préfou

French garlic bread Préfou is essentially a baguette stuffed with a lot of garlic. I grew up eating it when on holiday in the Vendée region with my family, where this recipe is from, and I remember how strong the taste was as a child. My taste buds have learned to love the punchy and salty taste of this crunchy bite. SERVES 8 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY 100g salted butter, softened 4-6 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tsp sea salt 1 /2 tsp ground black pepper 1 baguette (preferably slightly underbaked) Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Mix the butter with the garlic, salt and pepper in a bowl. Slice open the baguette lengthways but not all the way through, so it opens like a book. Generously spread the garlic butter in the middle of the baguette and then wrap it in foil. Bake in the oven for 8 mins, then remove the foil and bake for a further minute until golden. Remove from the oven, press down on the baguette to flatten it slightly and then cut into 1cm slices.

Add the remaining oil to the pan and sear the tuna steaks for 1 min on each side, then deglaze the pan with the wine, before adding the pepper mixture back to the pan, along with the tomatoes, olives and herbs. Season well with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer for 40 mins over a low heat. Serve the stew with a baguette, cooked pearl barley or rice, sprinkled with the sage and topped with a spoonful of aïoli.

Tarte frangipane aux abricots

Apricot frangipane tart I think this is probably the best stone fruit and almond flavour combination, full stop. I bake this tart on repeat throughout the summer. It’s delicious just like this or with some crème fraîche on the side.

Combine the flour and icing sugar in a bowl, then add the butter and work it in with your fingers until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg and 2 tbsp of cold water, and mix with your hands until a dough forms. Flatten onto a plate, cover with a dish towel and cool in the fridge.

SERVES 8 | PREP 35 MINS | COOK 1 HR 5 MINS | EASY

Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. To make the frangipane, cream together the butter and sugar in a bowl for a couple of minutes until pale, either by hand or with a hand mixer, then beat in the eggs, vanilla, almonds and flour.

PASTRY 250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 50g icing sugar 125g salted butter, diced 1 large egg FRANGIPANE FILLING 125g salted butter, softened 125g soft light brown sugar 2 large eggs 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 125g ground almonds 2 tbsp plain flour TOPPING 6 apricots, halved and stoned 1 tbsp flaked almonds (optional) 1 tsp honey few sprigs of lavender, to decorate (optional)

Recipes extracted from La Saison by Manon Lagrève (£26, Quadrille). Photographs © Nassima Rothacker. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface to 3-4mm thick and use it to line a 22-24cm fluted tart tin. Neatly trim the edges with a sharp knife and prick the base with a fork. Cover with baking paper and fill with baking beans or uncooked rice and bake for 15 mins, then remove the beans and paper, and cook for a further 15 mins. Remove from the oven and reduce the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 To assemble the tart, spread the frangipane in the pastry case, then arrange the apricots on top, cut-side down, gently pressing them in. Sprinkle over the almonds, if using, and bake for 30-35 mins until golden. Remove from the oven and glaze the apricots with the honey and scatter over the lavender, if using.

Manon Lagrève is a French-born food writer, creator and author of three cookery books, including her latest, La Saison. A finalist on The Great British Bake Off in 2018, she quickly won audiences over with her joyful baking style. Her recipes are inspired by her French heritage, modern London and her travels. She writes weekly on her Substack, My Little French Life, and is on Instagram @manonlagreve.

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Make the most of the iconic lemony Italian liqueur, limoncello, in these zesty recipes Recipes HELENA BUSIAKIEWICZ Photographs ANT DUNCAN

Limoncello drizzle cake Put an Italian spin on a classic lemon drizzle. The addition of soured cream keeps the sponge moist, light and fluffy. Enjoy with lemon tea. SERVES 8-10 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 1 HR 5 MINS | EASY oil, for the tin 225g salted butter, softened 2 lemons, zested and juiced 225g golden caster sugar 3 eggs, beaten 100ml soured cream 235g self-raising flour DRIZZLE 50ml limoncello 100g golden caster sugar

Oil and line a 900g loaf tin with baking paper. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the butter, lemon zest (save some to decorate, if you like), sugar and a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Whisk together the eggs and cream in a small jug until combined. Cream together the butter and sugar using electric beaters for 4-5 mins until light and fluffy, scraping down the sides as you go. Pour in the egg mixture a little at a time, whisking between each addition. If it splits a little, don’t worry, just add 1 tbsp of the flour to the batter. Once it is all added, sift over the flour and briefly whisk again to combine to a light batter. Spoon into the lined tin, smooth the top and bake for 1 hr1hr 5 mins or until golden, risen and a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. When the cake has 5 mins remaining in the oven, mix the limoncello with the sugar and lemon juice in a small bowl. Remove the cake from the oven and leave to cool in the tin for 5 mins, before poking all over with a skewer, right through to the base. Spoon over the limoncello drizzle, a few tablespoons at a time, waiting for it to absorb and smoothing over with a spoon before adding more. Leave to cool completely in the tin, then cut into thick slices to serve. Scatter over the remaining lemon zest, if you like.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

PER SERVING (10) 441 kcals • fat 22G • saturates 14G carbs 53G • sugars 35G • fibre 1G • protein 5G • salt 0.7G

Limoncello spritz A refreshing cocktail for a summer’s evening. SERVES 1 | PREP 3 MINS | EASY 60ml limoncello 90ml sparkling wine splash of sparkling water thyme sprigs, to garnish lemon slice, to garnish Pour the limoncello and sparkling wine into a wine glass or tumbler filled with ice. Add a splash of sparkling water, stir gently and garnish with a few sprigs of thyme and a slice of lemon.

Limoncello tiramisu This is a boozy tiramisu inspired by a limoncello spritz cocktail, which traditionally includes prosecco. Perfect for a dinner party dessert. You will need a 20cm square tin for this recipe. SERVES 8-10 | PREP 25 MINS PLUS CHILLING | EASY 3 eggs 200g golden caster sugar 250g mascarpone 2 lemon, both zested, 1 juiced 100ml double cream 4-5 tbsp lemon curd 200ml prosecco 85ml limoncello 300g savoiardi sponge finger biscuits

Separate the eggs into two large bowls. Put half of the sugar in with the yolks. Use electric beaters to whip on medium speed for 3-4 mins until doubled in volume and mousse-like. Beat in the mascarpone, half the lemon zest and cream for 2 mins or until it holds its shape. Clean the beaters and pour the remaining sugar into the egg whites. Whisk for 4-5 mins until smooth and glossy, and it holds its shape when you tilt the bowl. Fold the meringue through the mascarpone mixture until combined. Put in the fridge. Mix the prosecco with the limoncello and lemon juice in a shallow bowl. Dip in the sponge fingers on both sides, then arrange enough to make a single layer an 18-20cm square tin – you might need to squash the fingers a little to make them fit. Spoon 1 heaped tbsp of the lemon curd over the fingers, spreading it out in a thin layer to cover. Spoon a third of the cream mixture on top, smooth it out, then repeat with the remaining sponge fingers and lemon curd, finishing with the cream mixture on top. Scatter over the remaining lemon zest, then leave in the fridge for at least 4 hrs or overnight. Serve in squares with an extra shot of limoncello or a strong coffee. PER SERVING (10) 418 kcals • fat 19G • saturates 12G carbs 49G • sugars 40G • fibre 0.5G • protein 6G • salt 0.4G

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Edd Kimber’s

MODERN BAKING This summery mash-up of two retro desserts is a breeze to put together Words and recipe EDD KIMBER Photographs ANT DUNCAN

e’ve left spring behind and summer is well and truly upon us, so by the time you read this we’re hopefully bathed in glorious sunshine – which means the idea of baking elaborate desserts is probably the last thing on your mind. With barbecue season in sight the order of the day is cold or otherwise refreshing desserts – recipes that can be pulled together with speed and ease. That’s why I’ve created this loweffort (but still special) affair. It’s a hybrid of creamy tiramisu and a retro banana split mashed together into a sort of bananamisu sundae. And, just like any sundae, it’s incredibly easy to adapt to your own preferences. For mine I’ve omitted nuts but you could add a few candied or salted peanuts for additional crunch if you like. Or swap the dulce de leche for more traditional chocolate sauce. I’ve used malted mascarpone no-churn ice cream as the base (use your favourite flavour) plus sliced bananas and sponge fingers soaked in a mixture of strong black coffee and dark rum – all topped with a cherry, of course.

Edd Kimber is a baker, food writer and the author of seven cookbooks, including his latest, Small Batch Cookies. Find him on Substack and Instagram @theboywhobakes.

SERVES 4 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT FREEZING COOK 5 MINS | EASY MALTED NO-CHURN ICE CREAM 4 tbsp malted milk powder (such as Horlicks) 450ml double cream 397g tin of condensed milk 125g mascarpone, cold 1 tsp vanilla bean paste TO ASSEMBLE 160g dulce de leche, plus extra for drizzling 100ml espresso or strong black coffee 2 tbsp dark rum or amaretto 1 tbsp caster sugar 12 sponge fingers 2 large bananas, peeled and sliced TO FINISH cocoa powder 4 cocktail cherries (with stems attached, if possible)

To make the ice cream put the milk powder in a small heatproof bowl. Bring 4 tbsp of the cream to a simmer in a small pan over a low heat. Pour the hot cream over the milk powder, whisking to combine with a mini sauce whisk. Stir in the condensed milk. Whisk the remaining cream, mascarpone and vanilla in a bowl until it holds medium to stiff peaks. Pour the condensed milk mixture into the whipped cream and fold together using a spatula until no streaks of whipped cream remain. Scrape the mixture into a loaf pan and press a sheet of clingfilm onto the surface – this helps prevent ice from forming. Freeze overnight until solid. The ice cream can be made in advance and kept frozen for up to two weeks. To assemble the sundaes, tip the coffee, rum and sugar into a shallow bowl, and stir to combine. Break the sponge fingers into thirds, then soak in the coffee mixture for a few seconds on each side. Divide the dulce de leche between four serving or dessert glasses, then top with the sponge fingers, a scoop each of the ice cream, the bananas and another drizzle of dulce de leche. Finish with a light dusting of cocoa powder and top each sundae with a cherry. PER SERVING 855 kcals • fat 37G • saturates 22G carbs 112G • sugars 89G • fibre 2G • protein 14G • salt 0.9G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST:TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

Banana-misu sundae

Just like any sundae this is incredibly easy to adapt to your prefrences

ignature ishes Our favourite creators share dishes that showcase their unique style of cooking – this month, fermentation expert Kenji Morimoto with his eclectic, vibrant recipes

Recipes KENJI MORIMOTO Photographs ANT DUNCAN

Glazed portobello, edamame hummus and radish salad, p52

Glazed portobello, edamame hummus and radish salad

Strawberry sumac pavlova with pistachios and basil

This is a light summery meal that looks impressive and is really vibrant on the plate: earthy portobellos against verdant edamame hummus and lifted with a peppery radish and pickled ginger salad. Every element can be made in advance so it is perfect for meal prep or hosting. Assembly is as simple as layering the hummus, centring the mushrooms and then finishing with the salad. And be generous with the olive oil – the drizzle ties everything together.

I didn’t grow up with pavlovas and for a long time I admired them from afar, feats of technical skill that looked so precisely casual. Plot twist – they are remarkably approachable and are usually very impressive. It’s a beautiful canvas for seasonal flavours, especially when using a blend of double cream and tart yogurt, letting the sweetness of the fruit and meringue really shine.

EDAMAME HUMMUS 250g shelled edamame 60g tahini 1 large lemon, zested and juiced to make 60ml 1 garlic clove, minced 30ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve GLAZED PORTOBELLOS 1-2 tbsp vegetable oil 250g portobello mushrooms, sliced into large chunks 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp honey 1 tbsp mirin 10g ginger, grated RADISH GINGER SALAD 100g radishes, finely diced 20g pickled sushi ginger, minced 15g coriander, finely chopped 1 tsp pickled sushi ginger brine or vinegar If using frozen edamame, briefly cook them first, either in a pot of boiling water or in the microwave. Put in a bowl of iced water to retain the bright green colour. Blitz the edamame in a food processor along with the tahini, lemon zest and juice, garlic and 1 tsp of salt. When smooth, drizzle in the oil and a few ice cubes, or 45-60ml of iced water, to emulsify the hummus – try using 2-3 ice cubes and 1 tbsp of water to help the blades work efficiently. To make the mushrooms, put the oil in a hot pan and sear the mushrooms for 5-10 mins until they’ve released their moisture and started to crisp up. In a small bowl, mix together the remaining ingredients and tip it in the pan, deglazing the mushrooms. Give the mushrooms a gentle mix as the sauce evaporates, then take off the heat. To make the salad, put the ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Adjust the seasoning as needed but note that sugar and acidity should come from the pickled ginger and brine. To serve, spread the hummus over a platter or two plates. Top with the mushrooms and add the radish salad and a drizzle of oil. PER SERVING 614 kcals • fat 44G • saturates 6G carbs 24G • sugars 19G • fibre 13G • protein 24G • salt 4G

SERVES 6-8 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS RESTING AND COOLING COOK 1 HR | EASY 160g egg whites (from 4-5 eggs) 175g granulated sugar 1 tsp sumac 1 tsp cornflour 1 tsp white wine vinegar 150g double cream 150g greek yogurt 30g pistachios, roughly chopped 10 basil leaves, thinly sliced STRAWBERRY SUMAC SAUCE 400g strawberries, quartered 2 tbsp granulated sugar 1 tsp sumac Heat the oven to 140C/120C fan/gas 1 and line a baking tray with baking paper. Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites till they have stiff peaks then gradually add the sugar and sumac. Once incorporated, add the cornflour and vinegar. Tip out onto the lined baking tray, shape into a 20cm diameter mound with a dip in the centre and bake for 1 hr. Turn off the oven then leave inside to cool to room temperature. Make the sauce by tossing the strawberries with the sugar and sumac in a bowl. Add 3-5 grinds of black pepper. Mix gently then rest for 30 mins. Whip the cream until it forms soft peaks, then fold in the yogurt. Pile the whipped cream onto the meringue, followed by the sauce, a sprinkling of the pistachios and basil. PER SERVING (8) 280 kcals • fat 14G • saturates 8G carbs 32G • sugars 31G • fibre 3G • protein 5G • salt 0.2G

Tip It’s best to assemble this just before eating as the meringue starts to deteriorate once you put the toppings on. The meringue can be made in advance and kept it in an airtight container.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

SERVES 2 AS A STARTER OR LIGHT MEAL | PREP 15 MINS COOK 15 MINS | EASY

Fermented rhubarb hot sauce I love rhubarb and I’m always looking for new and fermented ways to capture its fleeting season, and this hot sauce is fantastic. Customisable as long as you stick to the salt percentages and remember to keep the brine. Perfect in dressings, marinades or to kick-start your next batch of hot sauce. MAKES 750ML | PREP 15 MINS PLUS 10 DAYS FERMENTING | EASY 400g rhubarb, finely chopped 100g mixed chilli peppers, destalked and halved (try a mixture of scotch bonnets for heat plus milder chillies) 50g shallots, roughly chopped 20g ginger, thinly sliced 10g garlic, smashed 3-4 thyme sprigs Put a jar on a kitchen scale and set it to zero. Drop in all the ingredients then fill with water, ensuring that everything is submerged. Note the total weight of the ingredients then calculate 3% of the weight – this will be the amount of salt you need to add. Add the salt and mix well, close the jar with the lid slightly open and leave it to ferment at room temperature for seven to 10 days – if you tighten the jar’s lid, remember to burp the jar during the first few days. Once the fermentation starts to slow down (less bubbles), start tasting the fermented rhubarb. Once you’re happy with the flavour, strain the ingredients (keeping the brine) and blitz in a food processor or blender. You may prefer it in a chunkier form, so take your time tasting it, adjusting it with the reserved brine to loosen the hot sauce. Keep in the fridge for long-term storage.

Tip During the final step, feel free to adjust the flavour with additional forms of acidity (such as apple cider vinegar) or sweetness (such as honey).

Kenji Morimoto is a chef, content creator, food writer and author of Ferment: A Cookbook. His Instagram @kenjcooks documents his interest in fermentation and connecting the dots between diasporic traditions and his own.

A plate

in the sun Spiced roast side of salmon with capers, p58

Serve up one of these impressive laid-back entertaining dishes from food writer Georgina Hayden Recipes GEORGINA HAYDEN Photographs LAURA EDWARDS 57

Spiced roast side of salmon with capers There’s something wonderful about coming to the table with a whole side of salmon. The marinade here, inspired by the kind of spice blends my yiayia relies on, is spectacular. SERVES 4-6 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 25 MINS | EASY ½ tbsp garlic granules ½ tbsp sweet smoked paprika 1 tsp ground coriander ½ tsp dried oregano few pinches of cayenne pepper 1 tbsp caster sugar 1 clementine, zested 2 tbsp olive oil, plus more for the baking tray 800g skin-on side of salmon, pin-boned 60g unsalted butter, cubed 2 tbsp small capers ½ bunch of parsley, roughly chopped roasted potatoes, to serve (optional) Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Crush the garlic granules a little with a pestle and mortar, then mix in the paprika, coriander, oregano, cayenne, sugar, clementine zest and ¼ tsp each of salt and pepper. Line a large baking or roasting tray with baking paper and drizzle with a little oil. Put the salmon on top, skin side down, and rub the flesh with the spice mixture. Drizzle with the oil and bake for 20-23 mins until the salmon is perfectly cooked through – check by inserting the tip of a knife into the centre and making sure the fish just flakes away. Meanwhile melt the butter in a small pan with the capers over a medium heat. Keep frying until the capers are crisp and the butter is browned and smelling nutty. When the salmon is ready, slide it on to a serving platter. Drizzle with the caper butter and scatter over the parsley. Serve with roasted potatoes, if you like.

Spatchcocked chicken, chorizo, tomatoes and cream Cooking the bread under the chicken to catch all those juices is an absolute game changer. You will be snaffling off bits of that chicken fat toasted bread as you are carving because it’s completely irresistible. SERVES 4-6 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 1 HR | EASY 1.8kg chicken ½ tsp sweet smoked paprika 1 tsp dried oregano olive oil 4 slices of sourdough bread 2 onions, cut into thin wedges 1 garlic bulb, halved horizontally 125g cooking chorizo, finely chopped 400g cherry tomatoes ½ bunch of basil 150ml double cream 30g parmesan, finely grated Heat the oven to 240C/220C fan/gas 9. Remove the chicken from the fridge and spatchcock it. Cut down either side of the chicken’s backbone and parson’s nose with a pair of large sturdy scissors or poultry shears, and discard it (or save it for stock). Lay out the chicken flat like a book, skin side up, and press firmly on the breastbone with the heel of your hand to flatten it out. Put the chicken on a plate and rub with the paprika, oregano and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Drizzle with oil and rub it all in. Tear the sourdough into large pieces and use it to line a large roasting tin. Scatter over the onions, garlic and chorizo, then top with the chicken. Dot the tomatoes all around, then tear over half the basil leaves. Drizzle everything with oil, season and put in the oven. Reduce the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and roast for 1 hr. Halfway through, baste the chicken with any juices. Lift the chicken onto a plate or tray and leave to rest for a few minutes – the skin should be crisp. Meanwhile, squeeze the cloves from the garlic bulb halves and discard the skins, returning the garlic to the tin. Pour in the cream and mix everything together, breaking up the sourdough as you go. Add most of the parmesan and stir. Either return the chicken to the tin or spoon the bread sauce onto a platter and top with the chicken. Finish by sprinkling over the remaining parmesan, then scatter with the rest of the basil.

Lamb shoulder with charred salsa rossa There are few Sunday roasts that beat a slow-cooked lamb shoulder in terms of ease and reward. And while it really doesn’t need much in the way of intervention, this charred salsa rossa base is worth the extra effort, adding a subtle smokiness and sweetness. SERVES 6 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 5 HRS 10 MINS | EASY 4 tomatoes, cut into quarters 2 red onions, cut into eighths olive oil 2 red peppers 1 garlic bulb, halved horizontally 75g sundried tomatoes in oil, chopped 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar or red wine vinegar 2kg bone-in lamb shoulder, room temperature 1 tsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed ½ bunch of oregano or 2 tsp dried oregano new potatoes and watercress salad, to serve (optional)

Heat the oven to 240C/220C fan/gas 9. Put the tomatoes and onions in a roasting tray big enough for the lamb. Drizzle with oil, season well and roast for 20 mins. Meanwhile char the peppers over a flame until blackened all over, then put in a bowl and cover with clingfilm to soften the skin. After a minute, flake away the blackened skin, then halve them, remove the seeds and roughly chop – they should have a bit of texture, so don’t do this too finely. Add the peppers, sundried tomatoes and garlic to the tomato tray, and pour in 200ml of hot water and the vinegar. Make little incisions into the lamb, rub over the fennel and season well. Put on top of the vegetables and scatter over half the oregano. Drizzle with oil and tightly cover with foil. Reduce the oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 3½ and cook for 4 hrs-4 hrs 30 mins, checking occasionally to make sure there is enough liquid in the tray. When the lamb is tender and easily comes away from the bone, remove the foil and increase the oven to 240C/ 220C fan/gas 9 for a final 20 mins until the meat is crisp on top and any liquid in the tray has evaporated. Rest the lamb for 10 mins, then pull the meat off the bone with two forks into the salsa rossa base and serve with a side of new potatoes and watercress salad, if you like.

Double chocolate panna cotta with cherries My sister will tell you she is not a pudding person but she tried this at my house and ended up taking it home with her. It’s wonderfully comforting, playful but elegant. You can make the sauce ahead if you like, it will thicken over time. SERVES 8-10 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 20 MINS | EASY 6 gelatine leaves 50g good-quality milk chocolate, finely chopped 50g 70% cocoa dark chocolate, finely chopped 900ml double cream 600ml whole milk 80g caster sugar 1 vanilla pod or 2 tsp vanilla bean paste cherries, to serve CHOCOLATE SAUCE 50g cocoa powder 80g caster sugar 50g 70% cocoa dark chocolate, finely chopped

Make the panna cotta in two stages. Start by soaking three of the gelatine leaves in cold water. Put both chocolates in a large bowl. Heat 500ml of the cream, 300ml of the milk and 30g of the sugar in a heavy-based pan over a medium heat. Remove from the heat when it is hot but not boiling and pour over the chocolates. Wait 1 min, then whisk until smooth. Squeeze the excess water out of the gelatine and whisk into the chocolate mixture, then pour into a serving bowl. Leave to cool, then chill for at least 2 hrs. For the vanilla layer, repeat the steps above. Soak three gelatine leaves. Heat the remaining 400ml of cream, 300ml of milk and 50g of sugar. Halve the vanilla pod, if using, and scrape the seeds into the cream mixture, then pop in the pod too, or just stir in the vanilla bean paste. Remove from the heat before the mixture is bubbling, then squeeze the excess water from the gelatine and whisk into the cream. Plunge the base of the pan into cold water (I fill my sink with cold water by about 5cm), being careful not to get any in the pan. Or just pour it into a jug and leave it to come to room temperature. When it has cooled, pour it on top of the chocolate layer and chill for at least 3 hrs until set. In a small pan, whisk together the cocoa, sugar, a few pinches of salt and 250ml of water. Set over a medium heat and whisk until it forms a smooth sauce. Let it gently bubble for a few minutes, then remove from the heat. Whisk in the chocolate until smooth, then leave to cool. Serve alongside the panna cotta with a mound of ripe cherries.

Recipes extracted from MEDesque by Georgina Hayden (£26, Bloomsbury Publishing). Photographs © Laura Edwards. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

Sip into summer

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CHOOSE YOUR CHABLIS Fancy a glass of Chablis? Here are three wine suggestions for your meals this summer. Petit Chablis, 2022, Maison François Martenot – £16.75 from Ocado With fruity notes of orange blossom, lime and grapefruit, this Petit Chablis offers a lovely freshness that’s ideal for serving alongside a platter of cold antipasti meats, soft cheeses and tangy pickled veg. Or if you’re feeling fancy, it tastes just as delicious with oysters and sushi.

Discover why Chablis wines are the ideal pairing for all the vibrant, zesty dishes the warm weather brings

rom light leafy salads to juicy grilled seafood, many of our favourite recipes at this time of year call for a crisp white wine. And if you’re looking for a quintessential summer tipple for your next soirée, you can always rely on Chablis. Hailing from the northernmost vineyards of Bourgogne, formerly known as Burgundy, Chablis is fresh, fruity and mineral-driven. Accessible and versatile, it's simply a white wine made from chardonnay grapes, produced in a wide variety of styles. The region’s unique terroir, marked by ancient limestone soils and a cool semicontinental climate, gives Chablis wines their unmistakable ﬂavour and elegance.

ALWAYS THE RIGHT PAIRING Whatever your summer plans may be, there’s a Chablis wine for every dish or occasion. Each type has its own distinct qualities to consider when ﬁnding the right ﬂavour pairings. For instance, if you’re packing some nibbles for a picnic in the

park, Petit Chablis is always a good choice, as its light, bright freshness helps tame the richness of homemade quiches, savoury pastries or creamy salads. Alternatively, next time you’re hosting a barbecue, a classic Chablis works wonderfully with grilled ﬁsh or spiced dishes, such as tandoori chicken kebabs. Try serving a raw asparagus salad on the side, as the wine’s deep minerality will cut through the vegetable’s natural bitterness. Meanwhile, an aromatic bottle of Chablis Premier Cru pairs beautifully with richer seafood, such as lobster or scallops, making it perfect for an al fresco date night in the garden.

Chablis, 2023, Domaine Des Malandes – £24 from Laithwaites You can’t go wrong with this fine mineral-fresh Chablis, with notes of green apple and intense lemon. It’s great with a wide range of seasonal dishes but is especially delicious with chicken. So, you could enjoy it with a classic caesar salad, creamy Tuscan chicken or a summery spin on a Sunday roast, served with herby potatoes and sautéed greens. Chablis Premier Cru, 2023, Fourchaume, Maison Albert Bichot – £36 from Waitrose This Chablis Premier Cru is rich, intense and extremely elegant, with the perfect balance of fruitiness, crisp acidity and mineral notes. Try it with meaty seafood, such as scallops and prawns, or raw, marinated or grilled fish. If you’re serving it with a starter, it will pair particularly well with the bold, citrussy flavours of ceviche.

Try Chablis with your favourite summer dishes and learn more at chablis-wines.com

Wine 101 with Kate Hawkings

Neusiedlersee Explore a vibrant up-and-coming region that represents Austria’s wine renaissance

n 1985, Austria’s wine industry, once the third largest in the world, was rocked by a scandal that nearly destroyed it. Millions of litres of wine were adulterated with toxic antifreeze in an effort to make it sweeter and thus more valuable. Luckily nobody died but markets collapsed. The industry underwent radical reform and has re-emerged smaller but highly respected. Many of the large industrial producers have disappeared but small, family-run wineries are thriving. Production is focused in the east. The steep slopes of Wachau, Kamptal and

Wagram are famous for their pristine whites, while further south Burgenland is known for its compelling reds, particularly in the up and coming Neusiedlersee region, just an hour from Vienna. It gets its name from Neusiedl, Europe’s largest endorheic lake and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Grapes grow on small plots alongside sunflowers, wheat and maize, cooled by winds from the lake that are key to Neusiedlersee’s terroir. Wine is made in the surrounding villages, often in cellars going back generations, now with an eye on quality and at very decent price points.

The grapes Th G Grüner veltliner is Austria’s flagship white grape, a reliable choice for crisp w wines with a distinctive white pepper w finish. More aromatic are gelber fi muskateller and welschriesling, also m used for sweet wines, and while mineral-driven rieslings (no relation) tend to be found further north, Neusiedlersee’s white stars are weissburgunder (pinot blanc), grauburgunder (pinot gris) and chardonnay. Delicate, pinot noir-ish St Laurent and beefy blaufränkisch, both native varieties and still widely grown, were hybridised in the 1920s to create the more reliable and higher yielding zweigelt, now Austria’s most popular red grape and Neusiedlersee’s shining star.

Something surprising

Nestor Orangewein Gelber Muskateller (£30, goodwinegoodpeople.com) This approachable, refreshing orange wine is made from fragrant yellow muscat grapes, left on their skins for 20 days and aged in old oak barrels before being bottled unfiltered. Green apples, passion fruit, lychees and tangerines with a salty, herbaceous finish. Very gluggable.

Kate Hawkings is a wine consultant and author of The Little Book of Aperitifs: 50 Classic Cocktails and Delightful Drinks (£10, Quadrille). Follow her on Instagram @kate_hawkings.

Perfect pairings Zweigelt is a very crowd-pleasing wine. Generally fruit-forward with lots of ripe red and black fruit, touched with spice and herbal notes, and kept fresh with bright acidity. While the region’s game, pork and charcuterie are the classic food matches, unoaked zweigelts are really versatile: served slightly chilled in the summer they’re as good with a wiener schnitzel as with a burger or a picnic platter.

Bottles t try

Lentsch Zweigelt (£10.25, waitrose.com)

Zweigelt does particularly well in Neusiedlersee and the Lentsch family flies its flag with this great-value versatile wine. Juicy cherries and crunchy cranberries with a slightly earthy underbelly. A brilliant barbecue wine.

Artisan Zweigelt Reserve 2020 (£22.95, stonevine.co.uk)

Where t stay

Ask a somm sommelier melier

Blow o

Neuseidlersee is a lovely area, not only for its wines but also as an under the radar destination for watersports, cycling and birdwatching holidays. The bustling holiday village, Weiden am See, has plenty of choice for kitesurfing, windsurfing and sailing on the lake, as well as great waterside bars and restaurants with dreamy sunset views. Nils am See, a super-luxe hotel and spa right on the water, has gorgeous rooms, a geothermal pool and all the creature comforts you’d expect. It also organises wine tastings, tours and other activities in the area. Rent an e-bike to explore the region with its comprehensive network of easy cycle paths: most wine producers welcome visitors and are very hospitable hosts. nilsamsee.at

Franz Schneider worked as an aeronautical engineer before returning to his small family farm where he makes his top-class wines using traditional methods. Gorgeous floral nose along with forest fruits, spice, chocolate and black olives: a beautiful, mesmerising wine best served very slightly chilled.

PHOTOGRAPHS: BILDVERLAG BAHNMULLER/IMAGEBROKER/GETTY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, PANTHER MEDIA GLOBAL/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

ge d u

Your easy guide to getting the most out of your wine glass

Holly Purnell-Swan, Caper & Cre, Bristl Leicester-born Holly spent years working in hospitality on the Cornish coast, where she also completed her formal wine training. She now works in Bristol as a sommelier at Caper & Cure and Carmen Street Wine Bar & Bottleshop. caperandcure.co.uk; carmenstreetwine.co.uk I normally drink pale Provence rosé in summer but I’d like to try something different. What would you suggest? If you are looking for a pale, crisp, mineral, dry rosé, I’d recommend an Austrian rosé as an excellent value alternative. They have defined red fruit flavours and a lovely mineral lift. But also don’t be nervous about darker coloured rosés – a darker pink colour does not automatically mean it’s sweet. Spanish and Portuguese rosés are often darker in colour but commonly dry and really worth a try. I’m not a red wine drinker, what can I drink with barbecued or grilled meats? I’d recommend trying orange wine – it’s white grapes fermented on their skins. This process extracts the colours and tannins present only in the skins of the grapes, giving the wine a lovely amber colour and a touch of tannic structure. This makes it an ideal companion for BBQ meats, the orange and apricot notes are particularly good with pork. If you’re on a tight budget, which are the best regions to target on a wine menu? Southern Europe, where growing grapes is easiest, often provides the best value. Generally avoid France and opt for lesser-known European regions. Austrian, Hungarian, Croatian and even Portuguese wines are commonly undervalued for their quality.

SPICY SHARERS

Summer fruits and chilli are a winning combo in these tequila cocktails for a crowd Recipes HANNAH GUINNESS Photographs ANT DUNCAN

TEQUILA AND WATERMELON FROSÉ The best icy cocktail for summer heatwaves.

750ml rosé wine 600g watermelon, cut into chunks, plus extra slices to garnish 50ml lime juice, plus a lime wedge for serving 50ml agave syrup 200ml tequila Tajín or chilli salt Pour the wine into a large shallow container or baking dish that fits into your freezer. Freeze for 4 hrs. Freeze the watermelon chunks alongside for at least 2 hrs. Scrape the frozen wine (it will have a slushy texture) and watermelon into a blender, then add the lime juice, agave and tequila, and blitz until smooth. Run a lime wedge around the rims of six margarita glasses. Scatter some Tajín onto a saucer and dip in the rims to coat. Pour the watermelon frosé into the glasses and garnish with watermelon slices to serve.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

SERVES 6 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS FREEZING | EASY

STRAWBERRY

TEQUILA SANGRIA

Strawberries and elderflower work surprisingly well with tequila. But you could swap the strawberries for raspberries, if you prefer. SERVES 6 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS INFUSING | EASY 400g strawberries, hulled, half roughly chopped and half sliced, plus extra slices to garnish 2 oranges, roughly chopped, plus an extra wedge for serving 100ml blanco tequila

500 rosé wine, chilled 50ml elderflower liqueur or cordial clear lemonade, for topping up 2 tsp of Tajín or chilli salt Blitz the chopped strawberries in a blender to a smooth purée. Pass through a strainer to remove the seeds, if you like. Muddle the oranges in a large jug using the end of a rolling pin, then add the strawberry purée, tequila, wine and elderflower liqueur. Chill for 1 hr to infuse.

Tip the sliced strawberries into the jug and top up with the lemonade, then gently stir to combine. To serve, run an orange wedge around the rims of six tumblers. Scatter some Tajín onto a saucer and dip in the rims to coat. Fill the glasses with ice, then pour over the sangria and garnish with strawberry slices to serve.

SPICY

PEACH PALOMAS

The pickled jalapeño brine isn’t necessary here but it adds a saline note that complements the tequila. SERVES 6 | PREP 10 MINS | EASY 300ml blanco tequila 500ml peach juice 180ml lime juice 6 tbsp agave syrup 15ml pickled jalapeño brine from a jar (optional) grapefruit soda, for topping up

TO SERVE chamoy Tajín or chilli salt peaches, thinly sliced Put the tequila, peach and lime juices, the agave syrup and jalapeño brine (if using) in a jug, mix well and chill until needed.

saucers, and dip the rims first in the chamoy, then the Tajín to coat. Fill each glass with ice, then divide the paloma mixture between them. Top up each with grapefruit soda and gently stir to combine. Garnish with some sliced peaches.

To serve, run a lime wedge around the rims of six glasses, running it further down one side of each glass for a more dramatic look. Put a little chamoy and some Tajín in separate

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A TASTE OF

Thailand Not sure what to buy for Father’s Day? Discover PRAKAAN – the perfect treat for the discerning whisky lover in your life

ew World whiskies have recently surged in popularity, offering the ideal gift for adventurous drinkers. Produced outside of traditional whisky countries like Scotland and Ireland, these spirits are deﬁned by fresh perspectives and innovative techniques – and PRAKAAN is an exciting new arrival. As Thailand’s original single malt whisky, PRAKAAN made an immediate impact. Since its global launch, the brand's inaugural Tribura Series has already secured a number of prestigious honours, including being named a Category Winner at the

World Whiskies Awards in both 2025 and 2026. But what makes it so special?

A RICH WORLD OF FLAVOUR

PRAKAAN’s perfectly balanced whiskies evoke the vibrant, eclectic spirit of Thailand with notes of tropical sweetness, fragrant spice, honey and aromatics. Every drop is carefully crafted using local spring water and meticulous cask maturation in Thailand's unique climate. The distillery's dedicated team of artisans marry traditional methods with Thai innovation to capture alchemy in a glass. You can choose from PRAKAAN Select Cask, which is matured in ex-bourbon oak casks for a classic honeyed character; PRAKAAN Double Cask, which is a complex union of ex-bourbon and ex-sherry oak casks; and PRAKAAN Peated Malt, which is bold and smoky with a uniquely tropical twist.

THE HOME OF PRAKAAN PRAKAAN Distillery is located in the remote province of Kamphaeng Phet, set within Thailand’s northerly Western Forest Complex – part of a vast, unspoiled UNESCO World Heritage site. The area’s rich natural resources and hot, humid climate, combined with the great traditions of local craftsmanship, provide the ultimate conditions for making premium whisky with a distinctive Thai character.

Shop PRAKAAN at Amazon and specialist whisky stores, including thewhiskyexchange.com

Future Château sparkling 2025 £59.99/3 x 750ml bottles, futurechateau.com

Aperitif hour

This dry sparkling wine clocks in at just 5% ABV, meaning you can enjoy a few glasses without feeling the effects the next morning. Light and crisp with citrus and green apple notes, it’s perfect for session drinking.

Beautiful bottles and barware to take your cocktails to the next level Words HANNAH GUINNESS

Fieldbar drinks box £179, Fortnum & Mason Made by hand in Cape Town, this ultra-chic cooler box comes with a handy leather strap and has a 10-litre capacity, making it ideal for transporting bottles of wine – a good excuse to enjoy chilled rosé with your summer picnic.

Huski champagne flutes £26.99, huskicoolers.co.uk If you’re serving fizz alfresco, this flute is ideal – it has triple insulation to keep everything super-chilled, plus a lid that will help reduce splashes and a detachable stem, so you can pack it away easily.

Whitebox mai tai £5.50/100ml, whiteboxcocktails.com

Tajín Clásico glass rimmer £5.99, amazon.co.uk

Moth strawberry daiquiri £4/125ml, Sainsbury’s

Keeping to the spirit-forward roots of the classic cocktail, this is a tropical, boozy, perfectly balanced blend of rum, lime, orgeat and orange curaçao.

Full of the Mexican chilli and lime seasoning, this is shaped so you can easily dip in your glass (rub a lime wedge around it first) for a spicy rim for margs.

Strawberries and white rum are a surprisingly winning match in this bright and fruity cocktail, which is handily pre-mixed and ready to drink.

Ammos Aegean vodka £62/700ml, hedonism.co.uk

Eleanor Bowmer cocktail shaker £35, eleanorbowmer.co.uk

Kicking Goat Zero £38/12 x 500ml bottles, kickinggoatcider.co.uk

Produced in Greece, this spirit is inspired by the Aegean islands, reflected in its subtle citrus notes and slightly briny finish. Sip it chilled as it is to fully appreciate the flavour, or use in a martini.

Add a dash of dopamine colour to your cocktail kit with this bright and cheerful shaker, which has a gold-toned body and pretty pink top. It’s a great addition to your summer get-togethers.

No/low ciders are tricky to get right – we often find them far too sweet – but this new release achieves a good balance. It’s full of flavour but still has zingy acidity and is very quaffable. 73

READER OFFER

Two unforgettable food escapes, in beautiful Padstow and Puglia

Book now and look forward to an unforgettable culinary adventure From

From

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TAKE A TWO-NIGHT FOODIE ESCAPE AND ENJOY AN À LA CARTE DINNER, LUNCH AND SIGNED COPY OF RICK STEIN’S LATEST BOOK.

DISCOVER THE DISHES OF ONE OF ITALY’S RENOWNED CULINARY REGIONS, VISITING VINEYARDS, OLIVE FARMS AND BAKERIES

FROM £370 PER PERSON FOR A TWO-NIGHT STAY STAYS UNTIL 31 OCTOBER 2026 This cosy restaurant-with-rooms has just 10 bedrooms, arranged above the atmospheric restaurant space with its wooden beams, just a few minutes stroll from the estuary. You’ll have a restorative harbourside retreat with easy access to scenic coastal walks and activities, as well as the excellent eateries that this part of Cornwall has to offer. Included in your stay is a delicious three-course lunch at The Seafood Restaurant, as well as a three-course à la carte dinner at St Petroc’s Bistro – and if you’d like to bring your four-legged friend, St Petroc’s is dog-friendly too. There is an extra charge of £30 for dogs.

FROM £1,249PP 10 & 20 MAY, 16 & 20 SEPTEMBER OR 7 & 11 OCTOBER 2026 Italy is known and loved worldwide for the quality of its food and wine. Puglia, a true gem in south-east Italy, stands out even in a country with such a strong culinary reputation. This exciting six-day tour will take you to some of the best spots to eat, drink and enjoy a range of memorable culinary experiences. You will also visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sassi di Matera, and Alberobello, where you’ll see the iconic trulli – houses made of limestone boulders with pyramid roofs.

WHAT’S INCLUDED • A two-night stay at St Petroc’s in a Cosy room – upgrades are available • A set three-course lunch in The Seafood Restaurant • Complimentary tea and cake served in the afternoons at St Petroc’s • Cheese and charcuterie board (served in-room, at Ruby’s Bar or in the sitting room at St Petroc’s) • A signed copy of Rick Stein’s newest book, Food Stories, in the room on arrival

To book call 03339 203 598 and quote ‘olive magazine’ or, for more information, visit olive.tripsmiths.com/stpetrocs

WHAT’S INCLUDED • An Italian cookery masterclass and dinner • A bakery tour and bread tasting in Altamura • Vineyard tour and wine tasting in Locorotondo • Olive oil tasting and olive farm visit near Ostuni • A bike tour of Bari, with a pasta-making class • The services of a bilingual guide throughout your trip • Two nights in an atmospheric cave hotel in Matera • One night in a traditional trullo hotel in Alberobello • Two nights’ accommodation in Bari • A bottle of local wine exclusively for olive readers • Breakfast each day • All transfers within Italy • Option to include flights*

To book call 03308 284 897 or, for more information, visit olive.tripsmiths.com/dolcevita

TERMS AND CONDITIONS Prices and itineraries are correct at time of print but may be subject to change. Travel insurance is not included and should be taken out at time of booking. Images used may not reflect your actual tour experience. Holidays may be sold through other selected brands. PADSTOW BREAK: From price is per person, based on two people sharing a room for a two-night stay, subject to availability. Single occupancy is available at a reduction of £127.50 per night. Blackout periods apply and this offer is not available for stays arriving on Sunday or Monday. Full payment is taken 21 days prior to arrival. 14 days’ notice prior to arrival is required in the event of a date amendment or cancellation. Offer is operated by and subject to the booking conditions of Seafood Trading Ltd. PUGLIA BREAK: From price is per person, based on two sharing, subject to availability. Single supplement £370. Deposit 30%. *Flights available at an additional cost. Local charges such as tourist tax may apply. Tour is operated by and subject to the booking conditions of TS Travel Ltd (ATOL bonded).

EL BANDITO, LIVERPOOL

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Graffiti-covered with exposed brick walls, this subterranean tequileria has a bar lined with bottles of tequila and mezcal, and a plethora of cocktails and shots to induct you into the wonders of all things agave. With a huge collection of exclusively agave spirits it’s a fun late-night party spot for tequila and mezcal connoisseurs and newcomers alike. elbandito.co.uk

What to order The menu changes regularly but may include tropical creations like the citrussy Jungle Juice or aloe vera and peach spiked TLC No Shrubs.

EL SIETE, SOHO, LONDON

PHOTOGRAPHS: CHARLIE MCKAY

El Pastor Soho has turned its basement bar into a stand-alone venue – pink doors lead down below street level into a moody agave den dripping in Mexico City inspired brutalist and modernist aesthetics, with Luis Barragán pink walls, chrome, volcanic stone, terrazzo bar and banquettes, all gilded in sultry red lighting. The menu features seven agave cocktails, seven twists on classics and seven different margaritas ranging from ultra modern, like the 777 Margarita served in a stainless-steel flask to keep it icy cold, to a camp frozen melon number. tacoselpastor.co.uk

What to order Spicy margs often woefully lack in heat but El Siete offers three different levels of spice for its take. Daredevils, we plump for the hottest, which arrives garnished with three fat chillies and it duly slaps us around the chops but still remains balanced and deliciously sippable. A softer take on a marg, Nopal comes spiked with prickly pear for fruity, floral notes that complement the tequila. 75

SELVA, OAXACA, MEXICO Meaning ‘jungle’ in Spanish, Selva’s laser focus on Oaxacan and Mexican ingredients, flavours and spirits is central to the identity of this Oaxaca cocktail bar, where the menu ripples with not just mezcal and tequila but homemade distillates and seasonal produce, all working to craft a vision of the terroir and culture of the region. A drinks list includes more than 50 mezcals and Mexican spirits (including Oaxacan-made rum and whisky), as well as crisp and clean highballs and martinis, plus thoughtful signature creations. Bar snacks might include things like plantain croquettes stuffed with Oaxacan pork wedding stew. Everything is served in surrounds that channel a rustic yet slinky mid-century aesthetic with earthy, natural colours, brick floors, wood panelling, low-slung leather sofas and a vast, verdant, tropical green painting. selvaoaxaca.com

What to order Try a zesty, herbal Guava Spritz with Altos tequila, Aperol and a native Mexican herb, chepiche. Or the namesake Selva, a savoury, earthy mezcal-laced number infused with peppery hoja santa leaf and garnished with Oaxacan cheese and basil. 76

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Switzerland’s Ticino region © Switzerland Tourism / Rob Lewis

The resorts of Locarno, Ascona and Lugano make perfect bases for an unforgettable autumn break, whether you’re enjoying a leisurely cruise on Lake Maggiore or Lake Lugano, heading into the mountains for panoramic walks, or riding through golden valleys on the scenic Centovalli Line train. Food lovers can browse Bellinzona’s vibrant Saturday market, linger over a wine tasting in Mendrisiotto’s glowing vineyards,

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S L O W

T R A V E L

Se Serene days and radiant nights The historic Spanish city of Cádiz is a haven of buzzy tapas spots, traditional sherry bars and tranquil sea views Words SUSAN LOW

PHOTOGRAPHS: PAOLO GRAZIOSI/E+, FJ JIMINEZ/MOMENT/GETTY

he slow train from Seville glides into Cádiz station, the final stop. It may be at the end of the line but this promontory dangling off Spain’s southern Atlantic coast, moored to the mainland by a thin skein of land like an umbilical cord, was once one of the richest, most powerful mercantile centres in Europe. Phoenicians settled here around 1100 BCE, naming the place Gadir, but the mid 18th century was when Cádiz hit its golden age stride. Strategically placed between the Americas, the West Indies and the Mediterranean, the city accumulated fantastic wealth through maritime trade. The memory of untold riches clings to the city’s elegant facades.

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» READ ON 80

PHOTOGRAPHS: SUSAN LOWE, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

Contemporary Cádiz is a study in chiaroscuro. Wander the narrow streets of the old town and you may catch the scent of church incense wafting from a doorway. Turn a corner and your retinas are hit by a sudden blast as golden sunlight glints off white walls and glimmers from the sea that’s never far from view. Much of it is a zona peatonal – no cacophonous car horns, no choking fumes. From the city centre you can reach most places in half an hour without trying too hard. Getting lost in the maze-like streets, stopping for a thick dark chocolate caliente or a cool glass of bone-dry fino sherry as the mood strikes, letting time slip slowly by – that’s the point of the place. The Italians may cherish their dolce far niente, doing sweet nothing, but gaditanos (Cádiz residents) raise the concept to an art form. Get your gastronomic bearings with a morning visit to Mercado Central – Spain’s oldest covered market, established in 1838. Being on the Atlantic, seafood is plentiful. At the gleaming displays in the fish hall you’ll spot species you’d struggle to find elsewhere, such as atún rojo (a type of bluefin tuna caught during the April-June seasonal migration) and a rainbow of prawns from giant red carabineros to the tiny shrimp that are turned into tortillitas de camarones – chickpea- and wheat-flour fritters (a crunchy, savoury speciality that’s not to be missed). Among the flurry of market stalls, and in shops and tapas bars across the city, are signs for ultramarinos. The term is nothing to do with creatures from the deep sea. ‘Ultramar’ translates as ‘overseas’, a term that recalls Cádiz’s 18th-century history as a provisioning post. Ultramarinos shops selling dry goods for ships’ stores – beans, cheese, cured meats and the like – sprang from this commerce. In Cádiz the tradition survives in food shop cum tapas bars such as La Cepa Gallega (9 Calle Plocia), founded in 1920, and Bar El Veedor, where menus zone in on smoked, cured and preserved products, with pride of place given to seafood packed in colourful tins. Long before the tinned fish revolution hit the UK, Iberians have nurtured a passion for canned comestibles. As any Spaniard will tell you,

The siesta is respected in Cádiz and a few hors’ rest before the evening tapeo (‘tapas bar crawl’ but actually more a civilised saunter) is a thoroghly sensibe strategy

artisanal tinned goods deserve as much respect as a good sourdough, a well-made cheese or a good wine. Pull up a stool, order from the list of conservas on the menu and join the revolution. The siesta is respected in Cádiz and a few hours’ rest before the evening tapeo (‘tapas bar crawl’ but actually more a civilised saunter) is a thoroughly sensible strategy. Batteries recharged, an earlyevening aperitif at Taberna La Manzanilla is practically mandatory. White-coated proprietor Pepe serves tasting-size measures straight from the barrel. His patience and enthusiasm in explaining the difference between an amontillado and an oloroso, or why that pedro ximénez sherry is so richly dark and sweet, turns sherry sceptics into enthusiasts, night after night. Head south to the La Viña neighbourhood for the city’s most vibrant dining and drinking scene. You’ll spot Taberna Casa Manteca by the queues forming outside before doors open at 8.30pm. It’s busy and buzzy, and it gets pretty lively, especially at weekends. It serves the crunchiest tortillitas de camarones, Cádiz-style chicharrónes (slow-roasted, thinly sliced pork belly) and excellent sherries – all best enjoyed standing at the bar, elbow to elbow with fellow diners, admiring the bull-fighting posters and fading photos of celebs who’ve eaten here. A short stroll away, El Faro de Cádiz serves some of the best seafood in town. Feast on local red tuna with garum hollandaise, or those big red carabinero prawns grilled on the plancha. From the piscine to the porcine: Mesón Cumbres Mayores in the north of the city is the destination for nose-to-tail meaty pleasures. Hanging jamónes and a dark-wood interiors give the place the air of a Velázquez painting come to life but the vibe is genial. You won’t leave hungry after the house special of carrilladas (pork

PHOTOGRAPHS: SUSAN LOWE, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, JAN WLODARCZYK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

cheeks) slow-cooked until fall-apart tender, or the kidneys cooked in oloroso sherry. You may notice an emerging theme here: sherry. It’s on every menu, every drink list and it finds its way into many a cooked dish too. For centuries it was the life blood of the region and its three main sherryproducing towns – Jerez, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María. El Puerto, a 30-minute catamaran crossing from Cádiz, was once the heart of Spain’s sherry trade: its ancient cobbled streets clattered to the sound of casks being loaded onto ships, many bound for England. The local style, called puerto fino, is pale and bone dry with a salty tang that practically cries out for a plate of anchovies. Get a feel for the town’s past with a tour and tasting at the family-run Bodega Gutiérrez-Colosía on the banks of the Río Guadalete. In its cathedrallike ageing room sit rack upon rack of old oak barrels, holding sherries that have been maturing for generations. “These wines are like a time capsule,” said our guide Imma. “They have been here before, during and after us, and it’s our work to look after them.” El Puerto’s monumental bullring was built in 1880, and the storks nesting on the roof of the imposing Iglesia Mayor Prioral church, flying clumsily as they come and go, draw tourists’ attention – but most come here for the food. Traditionalists flock to Restaurante El Faro de El Puerto for the impeccable local seafood. Top tip: opting for the less-formal high table seating will allow you to greedily partake of a

» READ ON 83

PHOTOGRAPHS: SUSAN LOWE, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, MANUEL BREVA COLMEIRO/MOMENT/GETTY

wider range of tapas-sized dishes, such as orange and bacalao salad or grilled white prawns from nearby Huelva. At three-Michelin-starred Aponiente, chef Ángel León gives new meaning to the term seafood with an experimental take that turns hake collagen into noodles, and fish protein into sausages. Ángel’s creativity springs from his commitment to ocean conservation and sustainability. Further up the coast, Sanlúcar de Barrameda sits where the Río Guadalquivir meets the Atlantic. Like El Puerto the existence of this old city, with its elegant Moorish architecture and good-times seaside buzz, is tied to the sherry trade. The pale dry style here is called manzanilla and it too has a salty taste redolent of old cellars and sea breezes. The best way to enjoy it? Head straight for the beach, a gorgeous stretch of golden sand that fills with holidaying Sevillanos in summer. The Paseo Marítimo will take you straight to Taberna Bigote, a local institution where visitors and locals come together over platefuls of beautiful seafood, be it fresh or fried, raw or tinned. Arrive in good time, order a copa of cold manzanilla and watch the sun slip into the sea. You’ll understand why this corner of Andalucía casts such a delicious, magical spell.

wilderness

havens

Three calming retreats set in beautiful locations that focus all their efforts on your wellbeing and relaxation

ERIRO, EHRWALD, AUSTRIA In a nutshell Perched high in the Alpine peaks of Ehrwald, the site of a 1930s mountain hut is now home to a striking guest lodge. What’s the vibe The hut’s original license only allows for nine rooms, so once day-trippers descend on the last gondola, guests are left in peace, interrupted only by the clatter of cowbells. The sprawling lodge is crafted using Dolomites stone and 7,000 beams of untreated larch, the resin imparting its sweet scent throughout. There are no pretences – guests are encouraged to pad around in thick wool socks, chess sets are set up beside a drinks trolley groaning with Austrian aperitifs and sheep wool armchairs are positioned around a roaring fire. Food and drink In the basement a lair of jars filled with foraged preserves keeps flavours local through the seasons. Hearty lunches might be a local twist on Tyrolean-style roasted pancakes filled with mountain cheese béchamel. Come dinnertime, sommelier Martin poses questions such as “elegant red or powerful white?” to select pairings for the likes of slow-roasted beetroot, hazelnuts and raspberry vinegar dressing, spatchcock chicken with green butter beans or South Tyrolean black polenta topped with pumpkin xo sauce and fermented green tomatoes. Eiswein is elegantly matched to ‘mountain vanilla’ (dried woodruff ) flecked cream, berry ragu and walnut ice cream. A weekly BBQ sees beef, chanterelles and pumpkin charred and served with foraged mountain chimichurri. Food and drink is all inclusive, and between meals you can help yourself to snacks and Zillertal beer poured from a tree tap. Which room to book? Suites are designed to embrace the breathtaking scenery, from sweeping terraces to canoe-like baths carved out of tree trunks. This is a place to hide out and reset – wifi is hidden unless requested, plug sockets are out of bedside reach and board games await in cosy seating areas. For the ultimate indulgence, Himil suite has two bedrooms, a fireplace and a private sauna. What’s for breakfast? A succession of Austrian treats are intricately presented at breakfast – fresh waffles to top with apple or cherry compote, granola and mountain yogurt, cheese and cured meat plates, and homemade honey to sweeten assam tea.

WORDS: ALEX CROSSLEY. PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX MOLING

Anything else? The spa is a lesson in pared-back luxury – rotate between the saunas, gong baths and pools, all with spectacular views. If you’re unlucky with the weather, kick back in an infraredheated chair to soak up footage from a 5-6km radius accompanied by a Hans Zimmer soundtrack. eriro.at

SCARLET, MAWGAN PORTH, CORNWALL In a nutshell Nestled in the cliffs above Mawgan Porth bay in north Cornwall, this boutique eco hotel feels like a remote beach hideaway but is just a 10-minute drive from Newquay Airport or 30 minutes from Bodmin station. What’s the vibe? It’s very much relaxed coastal chic here, in an adults-only space. There are lots of nooks to cosy up with a book, play games, get creative with the art supplies or relax with a drink. The spa area extends out from a beautiful sea-facing pool and steam room to a natural outdoor reed-filtered pool, hot tubs and a wooden sauna hut. There’s also a glass-walled relaxation space for afternoon snoozing and a steep path down to the beach for sunrise swims or sunset walks. Daily wellbeing classes are included and the spa has a focus on ayurvedic techniques. Food and drink The Scarlet restaurant has dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Atlantic and a terrace for sunnier days. The three-course set menu dinner is exceptionally good with precise, inventive cooking and an emphasis on the freshest seafood. On our visit, cured local mackerel and monkfish tail with butter masala sauce were particular highlights. There’s also a really well priced wine list with some great Cornish bottles from nearby Trevibban Mill and Polgoon. The upstairs bar has snacks and lighter options such as crab linguine, as well as some expertly crafted cocktails – try a Cornish negroni made with Tarquin’s gin and Knightor rosso vermouth. Which room to book? All of the 37 rooms face the Atlantic so there’s no shortage of seaviews and wherever you are you can fall asleep to the sound of waves. The décor is calming: pale wood with pops of colour, deep luxurious baths and powerful waterfall showers. Toiletries are from Cornish eco brand Oula and fluffy robes to wander down to the spa in are also provided. Dogs are very welcome and get their own bed, bowls, treats (and a sausage at breakfast).

WORDS: JANINE RATCLIFFE. PHOTOGRAPHS: ELLIOTT WHITE, EDWARD JOSE

What’s for breakfast? Breakfast is a leisurely affair, served until 11am with no need to book. The two-course menu includes a selection of caramelised grapefruit, daily cleansing juices, pastries and home-made granola, then choices of hot dishes like scrambled eggs with cured trout, fruity pancake stacks and smashed avocado toast. scarlethotel.co.uk

HÔTEL CHAIS MONNET & SPA, CHARENTE, FRANCE In a nutshell Cognac house turned five-star retreat in the vineyard-wreathed Charente region in southwestern France. What’s the vibe? In the sleepy river town of Cognac, Hôtel Chais Monnet & Spa is a seamless fusion of 19th-century architecture with light-filled glass structures. Inside, interiors cocoon you in lush, buttery neutrals. Food and drink In the old ageing cellar, the Michelin-starred Les Foudres occupies a cathedrallike space lined with vast cognac barrels. Menus ripple with local seasonal produce in dishes such as slow-cooked egg with mushroom and black truffle, and citrus-cured seabass with shellfish butternut ravioli. At the more casual La Distillerie, start with aperitifs of pineau des charentes, the local fortified wine, before tucking into the likes of pea risotto with scallops and salmon gravlax with dill cream. The old cooperage houses Bar 1838 – make inroads into the vast cognac collection or whip up sidecars at a cocktail class. Which room to book? Rooms are split between the original building and a modern glass extension, decorated in creamy, natural shades with French toiletries, snack-stuffed mini bars and madeleines on arrival. Book a plush junior suite on the upper floor of the original 19th-century part of the hotel, which come with balconies and exposed wooden beams. What’s for breakfast? La Distillerie hosts a palatial, diverse breakfast buffet, highlights of which include fresh pastries and breads (try the brioche), heaped piles of the sweetest plums and apricots, eggs cooked to order, waffles, crêpes and, our favourite, pain perdu – especially good served with crispy bacon and salted butter caramel. Anything else? In the heart of cognac country, the hotel offers visits to several producers, many a short walk away, from global brands including Hennessy and Rémy Martin to family houses like Delamain. Expect everything from VR tours to exploring atmospheric ageing cellars and, of course, cognac tastings galore. For downtime the hotel has a spa with an indoor/outdoor pool.

WORDS: HANNAH GUINNESS. PHOTOGRAPHS: ALBANE PHOTOGRAPHY

Neighbourhood gems Explore Cognac’s quiet streets lined with medieval and 19th-century architecture, and stroll along the banks of the languid Charente river before dinner at buzzy Poulpette for pared-back seasonal cookery, or head to the town of Montendre for lunch at La Quincaillerie, an ironmonger turned restaurant with a classic French menu (don’t miss the cheese tray), plus organic wines. chaismonnethotel.com

Why I love

Toronto 92

Award-winning local chef David Schwartz shares what makes this multicultural Canadian city a mustvisit for those looking for a diverse, buzzy food scene

» READ ON 93

The most important aspect of Toronto’s food scene is the wealth of culinary influences, thanks to the city’s multicultural population from a long history of mass immigration. Spanning charcoal-grilled Turkish kebabs to juicy jerk chicken and regional Chinese cuisine, the Canadian city really has it all.

Chinatown(s)

Toronto boasts not one but two Chinatowns. The most famous is near the popular Kensington Market in downtown Toronto, where you will find a bustling hub with small independently run Chinese restaurants and supermarkets. The other is East Chinatown in the city’s east end, while there’s also a Koreatown in Seaton Village, a neighbourhood of Toronto.

Jamaican patties

Kensington Market itself has two Jamaican patty spots: Golden Patty for a more classic, old-school variety, while hole-in-thewall Crumbs offers more contemporary twists. Traditionally the famous peameal bacon sandwiches from St Lawrence Market would be classed as Toronto’s classic dish but their popularity has now been overtaken by the patties and reflects the city’s multicultural present.

Suburban eats

Tourists don’t tend to head into the suburbs of Scarborough and Mississauga but this is where you’ll find many migrant communities living, and thus where you can try the best representations of these cuisines. You can’t fully understand Toronto’s food without visiting these places but the transport system doesn’t make it easily accessible without a car. Even some locals might not make the visit but with culinary delights such as handmade pide and fresh kebabs hot off the grill it’s more than worth it.

Kensington Market

A lively, colourful street market stretching several streets in downtown Toronto and a popular place for casual eats, it’s also somewhat contentious. Some locals believe it doesn’t get the attention it deserves from the government, while others feel it only serves a tourist population. Full of character and one of the biggest tourist attractions, by-laws have been created which prevent big chains from setting up shop there.

PHOTOGRAPHS: GILBERTO MESQUITA/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, BENEDEK/ISTOCK UNRELEASED/GETTY, ISTOCK EDITORIAL/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

Multicultural dining

Waterworks

This historic space has recently been turned into an indoor food hall that represents the huge diversity of cuisines in the city. With independent vendors offering the likes of Vietnamese to Jamaican it’s a relaxed spot to sample the city’s culinary offering along with a locally brewed craft beer.

products and ingredients. Provenance is also an important aspect of this: Linny’s was founded on showcasing Canadian produce, while Sunnys and Mimi work with local farmers to source local ingredients. Guests are becoming increasingly receptive to learning about this, as well as the preservation of the analogue experience and doing everything by hand.

Craft beer

Less is more

The craft beer scene is buzzing with the likes of Burdock Brewery in Kensington Market as well as downtown Toronto where it also has its own music hall. It pours real love and care into its creations, which include an innovative hybrid beer that uses discarded grape skins from a winery in Niagara.

Cocktail culture

The city’s bar scene is constantly improving and maturing with a wealth of speakeasys and award-winning bars spread across the city. French-inspired Bar Pompette appears on the world’s best bar lists year after year.

Quality ingredients

Toronto’s fine dining scene has vastly improved in the past 10 years with restaurants now focusing their attention on quality

Restaurants on the higher end are starting to become more specific with their offering. Because Toronto has such a global influence, historically you would see restaurants offering a fusion of everything. However now we are seeing a move towards clarity and focus, with pared-down menus that may look simple but taste incredible. With better access to higher quality produce, chefs can let the ingredients speak for themselves.

David Schwartz, winner of the 2023 Michelin Guide Toronto Young Chef Award, is executive chef at Bib Gourmand Sunnys Chinese as well as Linny’s and Mimi Chinese in Toronto.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: JOY VON TIEDEMANN

Restaurants on the higher end are starting to become more specific with their offering. Now we are seeing a move towards clarity and focus, with pared-down menus that may look simple but taste incredible

» READ ON FOR OLIVE’S RECOMMENDATIONS OF W H E R E T O S TAY, E AT A N D D R I N K I N T O R O N T O

WHERE TO STAY Mid-century modern warm muted tones, white mosaic square tiles and large windows make Ace Hotel’s rooms both stylish and cosy, complete with bespoke products from Japanese skincare brand Uka. Some rooms also feature their own vinyl players, with guests able to select from a choice of records from the in-room library for an analogue soundtrack to their stay. Stepping into the lobby is an architectural dream with its futuristic design featuring dramatic high ceilings, concrete pillars and stylish suspended light fittings. Michelin-recognised restaurant Alder lies in the depths of the hotel with a menu spanning Mediterranean wood-fired dishes from chef Patrick Kriss and weekend brunches are accompanied by live jazz funk. Catch the last of the sun’s rays and gaze over Toronto’s Garment District from the plant-adorned rooftop bar Evangeline on the hotel’s 14th floor (accompanied by a slick Ace martini with Tanqueray gin, vermouth and the hotel’s own tincture). Waterworks Food Hall is just a stone’s throw away with a variety of cuisines to suit your mood, from fragrant bánh mì to Indian street food and Berlin döner. Standard queen rooms start from £181 per night, standard king rooms start from £192 per night, acehotel.com.

The Drake Hotel

Boutique art hotel The Drake sits on Toronto’s culturally vibrant Queen Street West, surrounded by trendy neighbourhood eats and bars, contemporary art galleries and independent music spots. Original artworks across the hotel’s public spaces have been thoughtfully sourced by the in-house curator, showcasing permanent and rotating collections of emerging Canadian artists. The lobby is bursting with colourful vintage furniture and one of a kind avant garde pieces, while each floor has its own artist takeover, including iconic William Morris printed wallpaper. Gender-neutral skin and haircare products by Malin+Goetz from New York can be found in each room’s on-trend terrazzo-tiled shower. Leisurely breakfasts can be enjoyed at the Drake Café and, if weather permits, sit outside and watch the world go by from the tree-lined avenue. Start your weekend in high-energy style with Drag Brunch from Miss Moço. Enjoy a sharing platter of fresh blueberry scones with whipped butter and wild berry compote followed by a choice of breakfast dishes, served with a drink from the cocktail menu. A vibrant spin on an espresso martini with raspberry vodka, Start Your Engines is a sure-fire to kickstart your morning. Drake Underground brings renowned musicians to the subterranean space while the Sky Yard is a rooftop patio for laid-back daytime drinks or late-night tipples. Classic queen rooms start from £189 per night, thedrake.ca.

WORDS: EMILY MARTEN. PHOTOGRAPHS: WILLIAM JESS LAIRD, BRANDON BARRÉ, LAUREN WESANKO, SIMKOVA STUDIOS

Ace Hotel

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Linny’s

Acclaimed Canadian chef David Schwartz brings a new deli meets steakhouse concept to lively Ossington Avenue with crisp white linen tablecloths, low lighting and 50s-inspired décor and crockery. Steaks are the order of the day here, including bone-in tenderloin, rib-eye and NY strip, all seared in an overfired broiler and dripping with pastrami tallow butter. Classic old world wines are available alongside local Niagara small-batch winery Big Head Wines. linnysrestaurant.com

Wynona

This locals’ favourite is found on the quieter east side of Toronto. Pared-back interiors and warm lighting give the restaurant the familiar glow of a cosy neighbourhood spot. Awarded the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand in 2024, the Italian bistro brings a wealth of Japanese influences into its weekly changing menu. Favourites from the buzzy open kitchen include two-tone handmade ravioli doppio with squash and chunks of caramelised walnuts. wynonatoronto.com

Ayla Upstairs

A restaurant that serves up Hong Kong and Caribbean small sharing plates with a twist. Expect to be surprised with flavour and texture combinations, with the likes of crunchy cubes of tofu on pickled tartar sauce and prawn toast okonomiyaki: crisp, prawn-filled rolls topped with everything bagel spice. The shining star in the crown is drunken wild sablefish with pickled shimeji and shiitake, which falls apart at the touch and has a rich, umami flavour. aylaupstairs.com

Rol San Restaurant

Found in the dynamic heart of Chinatown is this dim sum stalwart. The traditional multi-course feast is served all day long and expect to queue during weekends as the restaurant doesn’t accept bookings. With plastic tablecloths and dishes coming out when ready, expect an informal, lively affair. The food is hot, fast and delicious, with the likes of popular shrimp dumplings har gow, plates of fried rice piled high and deep-fried squid tentacles. If you can handle the heat, the homemade chilli crisp is the crowning glory. Instagram @rolsan.to

Suite 115

Find the hidden code to enter this downtown speakeasy. Sit up at the long marble bar to gawp at the sprawling selections of liqueurs and spirits which mixologists expertly sling from the Asian-inspired menu. The space is brimming with life and warmth from flickering candles and a buzzy young crowd. Intriguing flavour pairings step outside of the norm – expect to be delighted by the Summer Solstice, which cleverly marries clarified watermelon with Ramsbury gin, Laphroaig whisky, sencha and green cardamom for refreshment with a smoky depth. suite115.ca Head to olivemagazine.com for our full guide to the Michelin-starred restaurants of Toronto.

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ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTETIANA/MOMENT/GETTY, ISTOCK, ISTOCK EDITORIAL/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, © GN CONSULTING AGENCY

Cook like a local

ODESA

Discover why food is at the heart of everything dear to those living in this Ukrainian city Words and recipes MARIA KALENSKA Photographs MARIA KALENSKA and SABINA ALMASOVA

othing happens in Odesa without food. It is how we celebrate love and life and generosity – it is born from our history, our culture and our diversity. Everything in Odesa takes place around the table. Beauty is in everything, from the plate to the surroundings to the people who make and eat the food. The use of quality ingredients is a given. Food must be elegant and always require at least a little bit of an effort. From nose to tail, everything is edible but you must make it delicious and look beautiful. Can and ferment everything possible. Put all your summer fruits and vegetables into glass jars, as they’ll come in handy during the colder months. During winter you should eat as deliciously and diversely as in summer. Children should eat well and eat a lot. So much so that the grandmother starts to see the lovely, pudgy rolls of fat on the child’s arms and legs. The tables should be overflowing – in my childhood, in our tiny Soviet flats, plates were balanced on multiple tables,

even on top of cabinets and windowsills, and even in winter, outside on balconies. Lunch must be exactly on schedule, so if you are splashing in the sea during summer, a picnic is non-negotiable. People go to the market for more than just food. To haggle, to gossip, to catch up with friends and vendors. If you haven’t sampled everything and bargained for everything, you’re not from Odesa. Good traders are like antiques – they’re passed down through generations. And if humanity has not yet created the right kitchenware for Odesan dishes, make them yourself. It doesn’t matter if it’s a simple wooden sekachka knife to prepare aubergine caviar or a large multi-layered pot to cook one specific stuffed fish recipe. On Malaya Arnautskaya Street, they’re always up for manufacturing any tool you might need for a reasonable price. After all, nothing is too much to ask when it comes to a gorgeous table display and making your favourite food taste extra special.

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Roasted peppers with two dressings

SERVES 6 | PREP 50 MINS | COOK 40 MINS | EASY

Nothing sums up the spirit of an Odesan summer quite like the aroma of frying or roasting peppers wafting from open windows. Families have countless recipes involving peppers and here’s one from Alla: roasted and peeled peppers dressed with a choice of two contrasting sauces. Alla comes from a Jewish family that embraces what we like to call a true cult of food. All the women in her family were excellent cooks, in particular her grandmother Polya, who was known throughout the entire neighbourhood. Alla herself is a larger than life character who has inherited Polya’s love of food. Now she owns a restaurant (and a beach) in the city where you can sample both these dishes. Choose one of the two marinades, sweet or savoury.

1.5 kg peppers (about 12 peppers) SWEET MARINADE 30ml unrefined sunflower oil 7g honey 5ml lemon juice 6 garlic cloves, peeled and minced SAVOURY MARINADE 30ml unrefined sunflower oil 15ml cider vinegar 6 garlic cloves, peeled and minced Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Roast the peppers on a baking tray for 30-40 mins, depending on the variety. Put the peppers in a sealed plastic bag and leave for 20 mins. Then peel off the skins and remove the stems and seeds. Collect the liquid from the peppers and strain it through a fine-mesh sieve if necessary to remove any seeds.

For the sweet marinade, stir together the oil, honey, lemon juice, garlic and 100ml of pepper cooking liquid in a bowl until well combined. Season with salt and pepper. For the savoury marinade, stir together the oil, vinegar, garlic, 5g of salt, 2g of black pepper and 100ml of pepper cooking liquid in a bowl until well combined. To serve the peppers hot, arrange the warm peppers on a serving dish, pour the marinade over them and let them stand for 10-15 mins before serving. To serve the peppers cold, put the warm peppers in a glass container, pour over the marinade, cover and refrigerate. They will keep for up to three weeks.

Tip For the savoury version, you can substitute the liquid from the cooked peppers with 100g of grated ripe tomatoes.

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Pickled watermelon Sabina is a popular Odesan family photographer – she loves people, which is why they always appear so beautiful in her pictures. Sabina’s mother, who is a manager at Odesa’s central railway station, is famous for her fermented watermelons. When the season starts, even if she’s incredibly busy, she takes time off to ferment them. These watermelons are always an important feature at family gatherings. Paradoxically, the first time Sabina sampled her mum’s watermelons was when she made them for this book – until then, other people always managed to eat them before she could get her hands on any. MAKES 3 LITRES | PREP 40 MINS PLUS 1 MONTH PICKLING COOK 10 MINS | EASY 2kg watermelon 1 celery stick with leaves 2 garlic cloves 1/4 red chilli, sliced 5 whole black peppercorns 2 bay leaves 30g caster sugar 15g sea salt 45ml cider vinegar

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Cut the watermelon into 2cm slices, leaving the rind on, then cut into triangular wedges. Put the celery, garlic, chilli, peppercorns and bay leaves into a sterilised 3-litre lidded jar. Put the watermelon wedges into the jar and pour in enough boiling water to cover. Put on the lid and leave for 10 mins. Drain the water from the jar into a pan, then bring it to the boil over a high heat and pour over the watermelon again. Cover with the lid and leave for another 10 mins. Drain the water into the pan again and bring to the boil. Meanwhile, add the sugar, 15g salt and the vinegar to the jar, then pour in the boiling water for the third time. Close the lid tightly and turn the jar upside down. Cover the jar with a blanket and leave at room temperature for two days. Finally, transfer the jar to the fridge. The pickled watermelon will be ready in one month.

Curd cheese syrniki This recipe comes from me or, to be precise, from my Ukrainian grandma, Marusya. She loved to cook and was famous in our Moldavanka neighbourhood for her beautiful and powerful voice. I still have a photo of her parents, more than a century old, which she kept in the all- important icon corner of her house. Marusya came from a prosperous and proud Cossack family with a surname Grab who had lost their fortunes during the Soviet Revolution. In this photo you can see my greatgrandmother (on the left) wearing plenty of golden jewellery, which the family had to exchange for food during the Second World War. But they kept one golden necklace, which Marusya passed on to me. That necklace is my reminder that food is more important than gold. Syrniki is also one of my son Felix’s favourite dishes. That’s why I spent many hours perfecting this recipe although, to be honest, the most important secret to great syrniki is using great Odesan curd cheese. SERVES 6-8 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY 500g full-fat curd cheese (see tip) 2 eggs 15g caster sugar 3g sea salt 1 vanilla pod, seeds scraped out, or 5g vanilla bean paste 21g plain flour, plus extra for dusting and dredging 3g baking powder 90g raisins 120ml sunflower oil honey, berries and soured cream, to serve

U K R A I N I A N

CO O K B O O K

maria kalenska

Cuisines Odesa oF

RECIPES AND STORIES FROM UKRAINE'S HISTORIC CITY

The curd should be as dry as possible so, if needed, gently press it with kitchen paper to remove any excess moisture – it should still hold its shape. In a large bowl, combine the curd, eggs, sugar, salt and vanilla. Mix thoroughly until smooth. Add the flour and baking powder, then mix again. Fold in the raisins and mix gently until evenly distributed. Tip some flour onto a deep plate. Dust your hands with flour, then roll 1 tbsp of the mixture into a ball, dredge it lightly in the flour, and flatten with the palm of your hand to form a round pancake about 2cm thick and 4cm in diameter. Put on a floured board. Repeat with the rest of the mixture.

foreword by felicity spector

Recipes extracted from Cuisines of Odesa: Recipes & Stories from Ukraine’s Historic City by Maria Kalenska (£32, Weldon Owen). Photographs: Maria Kalenska and Sabina Almasova. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a low heat. Once hot, and working in batches if needed, fry the pancakes for 2-3 mins, then flip, cover the pan with a lid, and fry the other side for 2-3 mins. Serve warm with honey, berries and soured cream.

Tip You can find excellent curd cheese or cottage cheese in Polish stores and some UK supermarkets. Choose the one with the highest fat content to make the most tender pancakes. For a savoury version, omit the raisins, sugar and vanilla, and serve with smoked salmon, roasted tomatoes or other savoury toppings.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX WALKER, WELLSIE82, GEORGE W JOHNSON/MOMENT/GETTY

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Norfolk

SPOTLIGHT ON Norfolk is a holiday hotspot for many reasons – beautiful scenery, a stunning coastline and fabulous food. Discover some of the mustvisit places to eat that celebrate the county’s open skies and the best of both land and sea Words ASHLEY MULLENGER

Ashley is a commercial fisherman in Wells-Next-the-Sea. She targets whelks, crabs, lobsters and mackerel for the public and local restaurants. She’s also written a memoir, My Fishing Life, A Story of the Sea, and documents her work on social media @thefemalefisherman.

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MEADOWSWEET, HOLT Set in a beautifully restored Georgian house, offering an intimate setting for thoughtful, modern, seafood-led cooking. Chef-owner Greg Anderson places British fish firmly at the heart of his regularly changing tasting menu, letting seasonality lead the way. Much of the shellfish is sourced from small-scale local fisherman Henry Randell, keeping the cooking closely tied to the Norfolk coast and the catch of the day. meadowsweetholt.com

You migt find yourself curled up wih a book and a cocktail in the library 108

THE MALTINGS, WEYBOURNE The Maltings never fails to make me feel welcome. Despite being spread across a large site – with a main house, restaurant, wellness retreat and a collection of cottage-style rooms – it feels cohesive, with a genuine sense of togetherness running through it. You might find yourself curled up with a book and a cocktail in the library, or eating your way through Norfolk’s finest seasonal ingredients in the contemporary, open-plan restaurant. Either way, community sits at the heart of the property, reflected in its close relationships with small local producers, which can be seen throughout its menus. themaltingsweybourne.com

Thougtful small plates showcase local produce wih clariy and confidence in a space desiged for sharing and lingering over good food SOCIUS, BURNHAM MARKET Burnham Market is a well-known coastal market town for good reason but, with so many shops and places to eat, choosing where to stop can be a challenge. Socius makes that decision easy. This relaxed, tapas-style restaurant brings a contemporary edge to the village, serving thoughtful small plates that showcase local produce with clarity and confidence in a space designed for sharing and lingering over good food. sociusnorfolk.co.uk

SHARRINGTONS STRAWBERRIES, MELTON CONSTABLE Nothing says summer quite like a punnet of freshly picked strawberries. I spent my early years on a fruit farm so there’s a touch of nostalgia in plucking those heavy red fruits straight from the plant and I’ll admit I may be biased. Still, strawberries and cream is an enduring national favourite for a reason. Make a stop at Sharrington to literally pick up some of the sweetest strawberries and other fruits Norfolk has to offer. sharringtonstrawberries.co.uk

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Wells-Nextthe-Sea FOODIE TOWN SPOTLIGHT This is a small working port with a big appetite, where fishing heritage and food culture sit comfortably side by side. Set along a wide tidal harbour and backed by one of the best beaches in the country, it’s the kind of place where a long coastal walk naturally leads into something good to eat. Start the day slowly with coffee and pastries from Wells Deli or Two Magpies Bakery, or ease into things with a sea swim, sauna and a strong coffee at Flo & Joe, which also serves seafood street food from the East End fishing quarter come

ROCKY BOTTOMS, WEST RUNTON Owned by a Norfolk fishing family and offering unspoiled clifftop views at West Runton, this quirky seafood stop makes for great choice after a coastal walk. Summer is the time to order crab, when it’s at its seasonal best and used in everything from simple dressed plates to pasta and sandwiches. The menu keeps things seasonal and unfussy, while the on-site shop means you can take dressed seafood home to try a new recipe yourself. rockybottoms.net

Summer is the time to order crab, when it’s at its seasonal best and used in eerything from simple plates to pasta

THE GIN TRAP INN, RINGSTEAD Just a stone’s throw from the seaside town of Hunstanton, this cosy 17thcentury coaching inn with quirky yet elegant rooms delivers all you’d want from a traditional Norfolk pub – low ceilings, open fires and deeply comfortable armchairs. It’s the kind of place where locals linger over a pint, sharing space with farmers, traders and fishermen (and, centuries ago, smugglers). The menu champions local seasonal produce, serving pub classics that feel timeless and well executed. thegintrapinn.co.uk 110

lunchtime. At The Globe Inn, you’ll find cosy rooms and a locally driven menu in a relaxed setting, while North Norfolk Cellars at Chandlery is a strong choice for small plates and a glass of something local. No trip to the seaside is complete without a generous helping of traditional seafood washed down with a criminal amount of seafood sauce – look no further than A&M Frary’s seafood stall located in the quayside carpark, and be sure to follow it up with a scoop from Wells Gelato. If you’d rather cook, Arthur Howell on Staithe Street or Walsingham Farms Shop is the place to pick up locally sourced meat and game.

PHOTOGRAPHS: PETER NAYLOR, WELLSIE82/MOMENT/GETTY, ANDREW HAYES WATKINS

Ease into things with a sea swim, sauna and a strong coee at Flo & Joe

BENEDICTS, NORWICH An elegant restaurant in the heart of Norwich’s foodie district, St Giles. Head chef Ashley Williamson (a protégé of Richard Bainbridge and Galton Blackiston) takes familiar Norfolk produce and pairs it with quietly inventive ideas, resulting in dishes that feel fresh without being showy. It’s the place to go for both private dining or if you enjoy food that surprises using everyday ingredients – cockle popcorn has become one of my favourite pairings on the menu. restaurantbenedicts.com

BAKERS & LARNERS, HOLT Bakers & Larners is a non-negotiable stop in the North Norfolk market town of Holt and something of a mecca for locals and visitors alike. Its food hall is packed with the finest pantry essentials, while the deli features standout goods from artisanal producers both near and far. If, like me, cheese, charcuterie and chocolate are your weaknesses, allow plenty of time to browse. It’s also known for the occasional high-profile local shopper, so you never quite know who you might bump into. bakersandlarners.co.uk

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NORWICH MARKET As one of the oldest and largest markets in Europe, Norwich Market feels anything but stuck in the past. Today it’s a go-to for up-and-coming food stalls, street food, cafés and independents, all packed into a lively mazelike sprawl that rewards a slow wanderer. Come hungry, follow your nose and don’t skip The Banger Stop – its loaded hot dogs are a local favourite for good reason.

Norwich market is a go-to for up-and-coming food stalls, stret food, cafés and independents

CAMELLIA COTTAGE, SHERINGHAM Tucked back from Sheringham’s main drag, this traditional Norfolk flint cottage is the spot for indulgent brunches and afternoon tea. The menu puts a lively spin on brunch classics, while the counter is stacked with cakes, pastries and traybakes that are hard to ignore. Don’t overlook the evolving drinks list either, alongside a well made pot of tea, there’s always something more playful on offer, like an iced pistachio latte topped with whipped cream. camelliacottagesheringham.com

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THE PARLOUR, BINHAM One of Norfolk’s lesser known coastal villages is home not only to the striking ruins of a 10th-century monastery but also a quietly charming restaurant set just opposite. The Parlour sits in a converted barn on a working dairy farm, which naturally shapes the menu, from milk-based drinks to ice creams and light dishes. Open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea it’s the ideal stop for an unhurried lunch. theparlourbinham.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPHS: JESSICA REN PHOTOGRAPHY

The Parlour sits in a converted barn on a working dairy farm, which naturally shapes the menu SMASH & DASH This is one to keep an eye out for. As a mobile food truck its location changes but you’ll find Kirsty and her team at many of Norfolk’s major (and lesser-known) events throughout the year. The menu is short and satisfying, smash burger tacos and loaded fries, done simply and done well. It’s a formula that’s earned plenty of local attention, including Norfolk food vendor of the year in 2025. What really sets it apart though is the provenance: all the beef is reared by Kirsty and her partner Nick on their Norfolk farm, taking it from field to fork. Instagram @smashanddashtruck

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Best

COOLCATIONS

GREENLAND

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When temperatures soar, escape to a cooler climate where mountains, fjords and volcanic landscapes help beat the summer heat Words MEERA DATTANI

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, PHOVIOIR, ANDREI NEKRASSOV/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, SHUTTERSTOCK

With glaciers, fjords, icebergs and the northern lights it’s unsurprising that the world’s largest island has a cooler climate. For staggering views, Ilulissat Icefjord – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – is a must with its enormous icebergs and whale watching in nearby Disko Bay. The colourful capital of Nuuk is a great way to engage with the contemporary and historic: Greenland National Museum and Archives, and Nuuk Art Museum explore Greenlandic traditions and Inuit culture, while shops sell Arctic fashions, crafts and jewellery. Also visit Nuuk to sample Greenlandic and Arctic cuisines. Traditional dishes centre on meats such as seal, whale and reindeer, which are dried, fermented or smoked (try the national dish, suaasat, a thick soup often made using seal meat). There’s also an emphasis on fresh seafood and fish but Greenlandic cuisine is ever-evolving – local berries and Arctic thyme are increasingly used, and fusion dishes can show up in the form of lamb with crowberries, for example. At Nuuk’s Hotel Hans Egede, Sarfalik Fisk & Skaldyr is a great place to try Greenland’s seafood and creative meat options – think butter-poached wolffish with pumpkin and soy, rolled snow crab with radish and buttermilk, and gravad reindeer with peas and horseradish. Or head to Nuuk Fjord where Inuit-owned Restaurant Inuk offers an eclectic menu of reindeer burgers, salmon ravioli, seafood platters with whale blubber, scallops and dried fish, and steamed redfish sourced from local hunters and fishermen.

ZAGORI, GREECE The cool mountain air of the Zagori region, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a world away from Greek island life. Located in the Pindus Mountains in Epirus, northwestern Greece, it’s home to VikosAoös National Park and the impressive Vikos Gorge, which was carved out by the Voïdomátis river – one of Europe’s cleanest – over half a million years. With its temperate climate it’s made for activities like rafting, cycling and hiking, so you can take in its stone bridges and views of the river and gorge. Or wander the cobbled streets of its 46 stone villages (known collectively as Zagorohoria), including Vitsa, Elafotopos and Monodendri. Forage for mushrooms and stop at cafés or restaurants to try local dishes such as cashew, mushroom or lentil pie (pies are king here), plus fresh eel and meat and herby butter bean stews. Aristi Mountain Resort + Villas is a leader in sustainable hospitality with its on-site farm, organic vegetable garden and greenhouse which focus on the seasonal. Rocket, broccoli and spinach are winter specials, while tomatoes, coriander and peppers grow from spring to autumn. The changing menu features dishes like pork with celeriac cream, apples and aronia berry sauce; local pasta with broccoli, lime and bukovo chilli flakes; and pan-seared trout with lemony white bean stew and grilled spring onions. If you’re inspired, take a cooking lesson so you can replicate at home.

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Found about 870 miles west of mainland Portugal in the Atlantic Ocean, this archipelago of nine islands has a temperate climate that’s ideal for outdoor pursuits – with a landscape of volcanoes, geysers, lakes and lagoons it’s wonderfully scenic. For divers, Formigas and Dollabarat Bank on Santa Maria Island are renowned as some of Europe’s top dive spots, while São Jorge is a good bet for hiking, canyoning and canoeing, and is known for its eponymous cheese. Thank the mild, sometimes subtropical climate for the food here – lush landscapes and rich volcanic soil allow fruits, vegetables and grasses to flourish. Local pineapples and passion fruits are sweet – try Kima, a popular passion fruit soft drink – and milks and cheeses creamy. The Azores is home to Europe’s only tea plantation too – Gorreana tea is brewed using the naturally heated waters of the Chã das Caldeiras geysers. Each island has its own culinary speciality. Wine lovers will be intrigued by Pico Island’s black basalt vineyards which are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, while on São Miguel, the town of Lagoa das Furnas is known for cozido das furnas, a meat and vegetable stew cooked underground using volcanic heat. Just outside the capital of Ponta Delgada is the solarpowered Solar Branco Eco Estate, which prides itself on achieving zero food waste and using specialised software to track energy use. Food is grown on site or sourced locally – sushi with an Azorean touch is a winner. If you’re a gin lover, you’re in for a treat too, as the owner makes his own.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: PUBLIÇOR TURISMO AZORES, ARCH TDP, AZORE PROMOTION BOARD, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, BRANDON ROSENBLUM, ANGEL VILLALBA/MOMENT/GETTY, GIEDRUIS AKELIS, LITHUANIA TRAVEL

AZORES ARCHIPELAGO, PORTUGAL

VILNIUS, LITHUANIA Summer temperatures in the Baltics rarely reach scorching so visit the region for a cooler city break. Lithuania’s capital Vilnius boasts a city centre that’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site – wander through the cobbled streets, baroque and nouveau architecture, atmospheric cafés and creative shops – and the first weekend of September welcomes the Vilnius City Fiesta, which sees music, food stalls and other entertainment take over the city. Comfort food is synonymous with Lithuanian cuisine – think cepelinai (potato dumplings with ground meat) and kepta duona (fried rye bread) but there’s much more here. Šaltibarščiai, a vivid beetroot soup made with kefir, cucumber and dill, is so famous it’s celebrated every year at the Pink Soup Fest. If you enjoy Michelin-starred dining, family-run Ertlio Namas serves a nine-part tasting dinner inspired by the Lithuanian cuisine of the Middle Ages, with dishes such as leek basket with pike; quail with turnips, jerusalem artichokes and asparagus; and candy with krupnikas (local honey spirit). With its own restaurant specialising in seasonal dishes, Hotel Pacai serves fusion cuisine and sources most ingredients from local farms – try ratatouille with tzatziki sorbet or beef tartare with Korean kimchi, Japanese tamari and Lithuanian cured bacon. Recognised as the European Green Capital 2025, it’s perhaps unsurprising that nature is right on the doorstep of Vilnius, with miles of cycle paths and walking trails to discover. It’s also a good base for a visit to Trakai, a historic town located about 40 minutes away by train that’s known for its 14th-century Trakai Island Castle and lakes, including Lake Galve, which you can also cycle around.

For our full list of coolcations to book now, head to olivemagazine.com 117

{MY LONDON}

Helna Busiakiewicz’s

WEST LONDON favourites

rom Spanish matcha lattes in Hammersmith and spicy margs in Shepherd’s Bush, to top bakes in Turnham Green and dumplings down Goldhawk Road, there are plenty of foodie gems to be found in west London. Local insider Helena Busiakiewicz shares the spots you need to know about.

THE HAWTHORN, SHEPHERD’S BUSH The Hawthorn is a reasonably new addition but already a firm favourite. Its food feels similar to Rochelle Canteen or St John but with pub classics such as fish and chips or cheeseburgers and fries. I maintain that a roast dinner is always better in your own home but I make two exceptions: one for The Hawthorn (get the beef, in my opinion) and one for The Anglesea Arms. We had sticky toffee pudding there and my partner has not stopped talking about it. A great spot for a leisurely family meal or, equally, a cheeky pint and delicious snack. thehawthornpub.com THE HAWK’S NEST, SHEPHERD’S BUSH If you’re planning a date, girls’ night out or just fancy a spicy marg, head to The Hawk’s Nest. It has a fully retractable roof so it’s the venue for all seasons – cosy and warm in winter, bustling and breezy in summer. Sunday to Friday it has a fantastic £14 ‘marg and a marg’ deal, which is a lovely excuse to sip on a margarita and not have to cook my own dinner. the-hawks-nest.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPH: EMMA LOUISE PUDGE

MR DUMPLING, GOLDHAWK ROAD This is our ‘shall we have a quick bite before the cinema’ spot – no frills but all the flavour. You can see the chefs making dumplings in the window, which is always a good sign. The portions are generous so share beef noodle soup, then get wontons in chilli oil and crispy fried dumplings, and thank me later. @mr.dumpling888 FRANKIE’S, TURNHAM GREEN Frankie’s is new to Chiswick and is run by bakers Jamie and Eleni – the shop having originally been a cobbler’s in Eleni’s family for over 50 years. I normally eschew a cruffin, often finding them not as satisfying as having either a croissant or a muffin, but the one here changed my mind – perfectly balanced, not too sweet and with lovely, flaky pastry. The classic viennoiserie is excellent too, which makes sense as both

Jamie and Eleni note that their favourite thing to bake is a croissant. Plus the coffee is smooth, strong and reasonable – I don’t know the last time I paid £3 for an oat flat white anywhere else. @frankiesbakerylondon KONVENI MATCHA, HAMMERSMITH Konveni will always have a place in my heart – it’s a family-run spot with some of the best matcha in London. One for hardcore matcha lovers and newbies alike, it offers different matcha grades, so you can get traditional matcha or flavours such as strawberry, mango, ube and sticky date. I love the iced Spanish matcha latte – a touch of condensed milk is just enough to offset a little of that classic bitterness. It does great ube and matcha soft serve ice cream in the summer too. @konvenimatcha 101 THAI KITCHEN, HAMMERSMITH I am always craving 101 Thai Kitchen – I have a mission to eat my way through the menu and I’ve made a strong start. Some of my favourites are the tom kha soup – very healing during a hangover – and the mini menu of som tum salad (I love the addition of soft shell crab in the tum pu nim). Get a Thai iced tea to cool down too. In summer the mango sticky rice is worth the trip alone. 101thaikitchen.uk BURNT, ASKEW ROAD This is my go-to brunch spot. It does fantastic coffee and has a seasonally changing menu – though you can always get impeccably done classics made with quality ingredients. The scrambled St Ewe eggs with a side of Maldon deep smoked salmon is divine. It has a great range of sandwiches and pastries for takeaway too – the forced rhubarb and almond croissants are something I look forward to every January. In warmer weather it has a private garden that opens for alfresco lunches. It is always busy though so make sure you book ahead – it’s open on Friday evenings for small plates and wine as well. burntrestaurant.co.uk

Helena Busiakiewicz is a recipe developer and content creator who is passionate about cooking delicious food, without taking it too seriously. She is a proud denizen of west London and can often be found running to or from a bakery. She has a near obsession with seasonal fruit so don’t bring up apples to her unless you want her to talk for hours. Follow her on Instagram @helz__kitchen.

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WEEKENDER

AMSTERDAM Where to eat and drink in the Dutch capital: an insider shares her favourite spots Words GINA JACKSON

Clockwise from below: Café Twee Prinsen; Café-Restaurant Amsterdam; dishes at Restaurant Flore; a view across the Amstel River; maritozzi at Salvo Bakehouse

hough Amsterdam hasn’t always had a reputation as a foodie destination, a wave of independent cafés, restaurants and wine bars has begun to change that in recent years – and is putting the city firmly on the culinary map. These are the places I go to time and again on my regular visits.

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OFICINA

CAFÉ TWEE PRINSEN

Located on the edge of the city, Oficina is well worth the trip. This design studio and canteen pairs a striking, architect-led space with a regularly changing breakfast and lunch menu. The cooking leans Scandi and northern European: clean, thoughtful and seasonally informed. Expect beautifully presented plates such as chickpea flatbread with cime di rapa or miso scrambled eggs on toasted brioche. There are always home-baked goods worth saving room for, too. oficinaoficina.com

Situated at the intersection of some of the city’s prettiest canals, Café Twee Prinsen is another popular Binnenvisser outpost. This relaxed wine bar is perfect for stopping by for snacks and a glass of wine. There are no reservations – just turn up and hope for a spot, which might just be a stool perched on the edge of the canal. Most of the menu is vegetarian, with fresh, flavourful dishes designed for sharing. tweeprinsen.nl

CALISTO

From the outside, Carmen Amsterdam looks like a chic boutique, carefully curating a stylish selection of womenswear and accessories. But don’t miss the café tucked at the back: an inviting light-filled space that’s perfect for brunch or lunch. Softly scrambled eggs, Nordic-inspired breakfast plates and expertly brewed coffee are all on offer. carmenamsterdam.com

CARMEN

A relaxed Italian-inspired trattoria located in Jordaan. It’s an ideal place to unwind after a day wandering the canals, with the menu offering a short curation of handmade pastas and small plates to pair with wine. It’s also particularly welcoming for solo diners, who can perch at the bar and rub shoulders with the locals. calistoamsterdam.nl

GITANE

This all-day restaurant owned by exOttolenghi chef Angelo Kremmydas is the kind of place that you can visit for brunch or dinner, when the candelit tables make it perfect for a date night. Small plates include whipped tarama and cod’s roe piled on a brioche roll, mackerel crudo in kumquat and chilli oil, and tender duck with caramelised jerusalem artichoke – all paired with an impressive wine list. restaurantgitane.nl

PHOTOGRAPHS: SAMIRA KAFALA, GINA JACKSON, CHEYENNE PRESSANI, GEORGE PACHANTOURIS / MOMENT / GETTY

ADVOCATUUR

RESTAURANT FLORE

This standout restaurant is one to save for special occasions. As the only two-Michelinstarred restaurant in Amsterdam to also hold a Michelin Green Star, Flore offers a hyperseasonal menu, with 90% of the ingredients sourced from within the Netherlands. The tasting menus showcase inventive, beautifully executed dishes – and as part of the dining experience you’ll even enjoy your amusebouche inside the kitchen. restaurantflore.com

ESH PITA BAR

This sleek cocktail bar is located inside the swanky Rosewood Amsterdam, which sits within the historic former Palace of Justice. Inside the bar features three distinct spaces, including a live performance room and a distillery room. Take a seat on the velvety furnishings and sip cocktails, paired with Indian-inspired nibbles served from the bar’s two tandoor ovens. rosewoodhotels.com

Tucked away in the Museum Quarter, this relaxed, no-frills Israeli restaurant serves generous portions of stuffed pittas alongside platters of crispy falafel, creamy hummus and tender chicken shawarma. Dishes are made for sharing so it’s best to come with a friend or two and dive in together – you’re guaranteed to leave stuffed. esh.amsterdam

SALVO BAKEHOUSE

It doesn’t get more traditional and Dutch than Café-Restaurant Amsterdam, a true local institution. Situated in an airy, whitewashed building near Westerpark – specifically the engine room of a former water pumping station – this well-known dining spot is where Amsterdammers gather over hearty plates of steak frites, schnitzel and fresh seafood. The perfect place for a relaxed lunch or dinner, it’s a reliable spot to experience the city’s timeless culinary favourites. cradam.nl

CAFÉ-RESTAURANT AMSTERDAM

There’s no shortage of great bakeries in Amsterdam but Salvo Bakehouse stands out from the crowd thanks to its Italian-inspired pastries. Located on the edge of Jordaan you’ll find maritozzi, crunchy cannoli, thick Florentine sandwiches and endless other desserts. The baked goods counter changes constantly, ensuring there’s always something new to try: the chunky chocolate cookies and pistachio tiramisu have to be my personal favourites. salvobakehouse.com

Gina Jackson is a London-based travel writer specialising in destination guides and hotel reviews. As a keen photographer Gina has documented her adventures around the globe for almost a decade on Instagram at @ginagoesto and has also authored two books: British Boutique Hotels and An Opinionated Guide to London Hotels.

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EASY SEASONAL NOURISHMENT

Bright and vibrant healthy recipes that pack in the flavour Recipes EMILY MARTEN Photographs MOWIE KAY

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Mexican fattoush, p124 123

Although hardly traditional, this salad brings together the freshness and crunch of a Middle Eastern fattoush with Mexican-inspired flavours. If you prefer a no-cook version you can skip charring the sweetcorn but it does add an extra smokiness that is worth the small effort. You can prep most of the salad ahead, simply add the dressing, corn chips and feta when ready to serve.

Hasselbacking is back and it works really well with aubergine to ensure it roasts to silky perfection. If this feels like too much effort for a weeknight you can instead score the aubergines deeply on the cut side in a crisscross pattern, making sure not to cut all the way through. It also tastes great cold the next day.

SERVES 2-3 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 5 MINS | EASY

SERVES 2 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 40 MINS | EASY

1 tsp vegetable oil 165g tin of sweetcorn, drained and patted dry 1 tsp Tajín 400g tin of pinto beans, drained 1 /2 red onion, diced 1 /2 cucumber, diced handful of radishes, finely sliced 1 mango, cut into small pieces 1 large romaine lettuce, shredded few handfuls of blue corn tortilla chips handful of crumbled feta Valentina hot sauce, to serve (optional) JALAPEÑO SALSA VINAIGRETTE 1 tsp dijon mustard 2 limes, juiced 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 jalapeño, finely chopped large handful of coriander, finely chopped, plus a few extra sprigs to serve

1 medium aubergine 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp ground cumin GREEN TAHINI SAUCE 50g tahini 1 lemon, zested and juiced 30g mixture of parsley and mint or coriander 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped SPEEDY GRAIN SALAD 250g pouch of pre-cooked mixed grains 400g tin of cannellini beans, drained 1 /2 lemon, juiced 11/2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 40g toasted pine nuts, reserving a few to garnish 100g pomegranate seeds, reserving a few to garnish

Put a frying pan over a medium-high heat and add the oil. Spread out the corn in an even layer and cook for a few minutes until lightly charred on one side, then turn and repeat on the other side. When golden all over, toss through the Tajín, take off the heat and allow to cool. Put the beans in a large salad bowl with the onion, cucumber, radishes and corn. Gently fold through the mango and lettuce. Make the vinaigrette by mixing the mustard, lime juice and oil until it has emulsified. Stir through the jalapeño and coriander, and season to taste. Lightly break up the tortilla chips over the salad and spoon over the dressing. Gently toss, then top with the feta, a few coriander sprigs and a drizzle of hot sauce, if you like. PER SERVING (3) 396 kcals • fat 16G • saturates 2G carbs 41G • sugars 13G • fibre 17G • protein 12G • salt 1G

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Hasselback aubergine with green tahini and speedy grain salad

Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Halve the aubergine lengthways then put one half face down on a chopping board with two chopsticks lined up lengthways. Cut slices widthways into the aubergine at roughly 1/2cm intervals, using the chopsticks to prevent cutting the whole way through. Repeat with the other half of the aubergine then put both halves face down onto a lined baking sheet. Mix the olive oil, cumin and some seasoning, and brush onto the aubergine halves, making sure to get between the slices. Roast for 35-40 mins until really soft. Meanwhile make the green tahini sauce by blitzing together all the ingredients, except the zest, with 2 tbsp of cold water until smooth. Add more water by the tablespoon until it reaches a drizzling consistency. Toss together the salad ingredients. To serve, spoon a little of the tahini on a plate then top with some of the salad and aubergine. Drizzle with the remaining sauce and garnish with the reserved pine nuts and pomegranate seeds. PER SERVING 586 kcals • fat 33G • saturates 4G carbs 45G • sugars 9G • fibre 16G • protein 18G • salt 0.5G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: LAURIE NEWMAN. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY STEPHENSON

Mexican fattoush

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Bean protein pot with soymarinated eggs and kimchi Soy-marinated eggs seriously boost the taste profile and general excitement of a regular soft-boiled egg. They’re great for meal prepping, just make sure not to leave them too long in the marinade to prevent them becoming too salty – about 24 hours is ideal. You can use any left-over marinade as the base for a ramen or stir-fry sauce. This bean pot is designed to be a high-protein breakfast on the go that’s packed with gut health benefits. If eaten at home you could instead serve it on a slice of wholewheat toasted sourdough bread. SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS MARINATING | COOK 7 MINS | EASY SOY-MARINATED EGGS 2 eggs 60ml low-salt soy sauce 1 tbsp grated ginger 3 /4 tbsp honey BEAN MIXTURE 1 tsp gochujang 1 /2 lime, juiced 400g tin of mixed beans, drained KIMCHI YOGURT 200g 5% fat greek yogurt 1-11/2 tbsp kimchi brine TO SERVE kimchi black and white sesame seeds small handful of coriander, roughly chopped chilli oil (optional) toasted wholewheat sourdough (optional) Bring a pan of water to the boil, gently lower in the eggs and cook for 6 mins 30 seconds, then remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to an ice bath to cool. Mix the soy, ginger and honey with 60ml of water. Peel the eggs then put them in a tall container and cover with the marinade. Leave overnight or for at least 4 hrs. If prepping ahead, drain them after 24 hrs and keep refrigerated. To make the bean mixture, combine the gochujang and lime juice, then stir through the beans. To make the kimchi yogurt, mix the yogurt with the kimchi brine, adding more brine to taste if you like. Drain the marinated eggs and slice them in half. Assemble the bowls with the yogurt base, followed by the bean mixture and then the halved eggs, drizzling with a little extra soy marinade if you like. Garnish with kimchi, a sprinkling of sesame seeds, coriander and a little chilli oil to taste. Alternatively, layer up all the ingredients on slices of sourdough toast. PER SERVING 320 kcals • fat 11G • saturates 5G carbs 24G • sugars 8G • fibre 12G • protein 27G • salt 1.8G

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A complete guide to summer skincare

Three skincare experts on the new breed of SPFs and how to find the best one for your skin Words EMMA MOORE 128

ll year long we’re bombarded with tips on managing our skincare regimes – from the wrinkle-busters we should be using to the makeup that won’t slip southwards come sundown. Once you realise there’s no magic anti-ageing cream it’s tempting to block out the noise – after all, there are worse things than crêpe-like skin. But there’s one part of your regime that can’t be ignored: suncare is much more than a guard against the unwelcome aesthetics of skin ageing – it’s preventative health and our skin’s shield against the very real and dangerous effects of accumulative sun exposure. The science of suncare is an area of constant research and development. We’ve come a long way since the days of mahogany-coloured sunbathers slathering themselves in cooking oil while children ran around the beach wearing sunscreens that left them looking like they’d rolled around in a chalk pit. Today we understand the need for a robust defence against the damaging rays emitted by the sun – in particular UVA (rays that penetrate deep into the skin, causing premature ageing) and UVB (rays that cause sunburn, the quick-hit damage that leads to accumulative harm, including melanoma). “Modern sunscreens cut the amount of both types of UV light reaching the skin in one of two ways: they either absorb it or scatter and reflect it away from the skin,” explains Caroline Rainsford, director of science at CTPA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association). The former – sometimes referred to as chemical or organic filters – works by absorbing ultraviolet rays, much like a sponge soaks up water. “Each tiny sunscreen ‘sponge’ soaks up ultraviolet rays, then releases them back out after converting them into lower-energy rays,” she continues. “Reflector filters – mineral or inorganic filters – act differently, reflecting and scattering UV rays. They’re like thousands of tiny mirrors, each reflecting UV rays away from the skin.” Increasingly we’re looking to suncare to go further and perform in ever more sophisticated ways. We want it to blend the science of sun defence with protection against other pollutants, plus textural comfort, multifunctionality and sustainability. “Recent innovations in suncare are all about formulation elegance and multifunctionality,” says Dr Tara Francis, a practitioner in facial aesthetics and skin treatment. “We’re seeing sunscreens that feel more like skincare, with lightweight textures, hydrating ingredients and no white cast. There’s also a growing focus on broad-spectrum protection beyond UVB, to include UVA, infrared, blue light and pollution defence. Hybrid sunscreens that combine chemical and mineral filters are on the rise, offering both comfort and cosmetic appeal.” There are more options than ever available but how can you choose which one is right for you?

YOU WANT: SUNSCREEN THAT DOUBLES AS SKINCARE While it’s generally advised that SPF-reinforced skincare should not be treated as primary suncare, sun creams are evolving to do both jobs. “Modern sunscreens are now infused with skincare actives,” affirms Dr Rachna Murthy, a medical aesthetic practitioner and co-founder of the FaceRestoration clinic. “Think hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, ceramides and antioxidants – these ingredients not only protect from UV damage but also hydrate, soothe and repair the skin barrier, improving overall skin texture and health.” For oily skin, she recommends lightweight, non-comedogenic, water-based or gel sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Additives like niacinamide help control oil and inflammation. For dry skin she suggests creamy sunscreens that are rich in hydrating agents – hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides – and soothing botanicals like aloe vera. Alcohol and fragrances should be avoided as they can exacerbate dryness. Layering also works to ensure all needs are met. “Most water-based and gentle actives, like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, mix well with sunscreen. But combining certain actives – like retinol or AHAs – with chemical filters can increase irritation or reduce efficacy, so compatibility and order of application matter,” advises Dr Murthy.

Suncare is much more than a guard against skin ageing – it’s preventative health

YOU WANT: SUN PROTECTION THAT DOESN’T LEAVE A WHITE CAST Historically, mineral sunscreens have been responsible for leaving behind a white cast which becomes more pronounced on darker skin tones. “The white cast is typically caused by mineral filters, like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in their raw form,” explains Dr Francis. “However, newer technologies use micronised or nano-particle versions that are far more transparent on application, even on darker skin tones.” She recommends mineral sunscreens that are marketed as ‘sheer’, ‘invisible’ or ‘tinted’ and cream or gel textures over thick pastes. “Brands like ISDIN, Ultra Violette and Black Girl Sunscreen have done particularly well in this space.”

YOU WANT: SPF YOU CAN RELY ON “There are internationally standardised test methods that are used to provide an SPF number,” says Caroline. “These tests, developed over decades, are subject to intense scrutiny by the leading global sun protection experts and rigorously tested by different laboratories around the world before they’re issued for companies to use.” A separate internationally standardised test is performed to ensure the UVA protection has been achieved. Water resistance and broad-spectrum protection are also rigorously tested. “Look

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for products that state compliance with EU Cosmetics Regulation or the FDA (for the US), or are labelled ‘broad-spectrum,’ ‘waterresistant’ or ‘reef-safe’ for additional assurance,” advises Dr Murthy.

YOU WANT: SUN CREAM THAT DOESN’T IRRITATE YOUR SKIN “For sensitive or reactive skin, mineral sunscreens made with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are generally better tolerated, as they sit on the skin’s surface and are less likely to cause irritation,” says Dr Francis. The most common irritants in suncare are oxybenzone and octinoxate. Some chemical filters, like avobenzone or octocrylene, can trigger stinging or redness in those with sensitivity, and across the board, fragrance, alcohol and certain preservatives should be avoided. “Choose sunscreens labelled ‘hypoallergenic’ or ‘fragrancefree’, or those that are specifically formulated for sensitive skin.”

YOU WANT: SUNCREAM THAT DOESN’T HARM THE PLANET Certain chemical filters, especially oxybenzone and octinoxate, are linked to coral bleaching and marine toxicity, leading to a ban in Hawaii and other Pacific and Caribbean regions. Bioaccumulation has been found in fish and algae, while microplastic beads or silicones contribute to water pollution. “Look for ‘reef-safe’, ‘biodegradable’ or ‘ocean-friendly’ labelling, although this isn’t a regulated term, so check ingredient lists,” recommends Dr Francis. “Non-nano zinc oxide is considered the safest for both skin and the environment.” Some brands now carry eco-impact ratings or certifications for environmental safety.

Science brings convenience, increased comfort and intelligence but the making of a good suncare regime doesn’t begin and end in the lab. Responsible use is essential to ensure we’re protected. It’s recommended that sun protection be used year round to defend against incidental sun exposure. “We should wear sunscreen even on cloudy days, and indoors by a window,” says Caroline. For more intense exposure she recommends applying it 15-30 minutes before going out and reapplying every couple of hours (more often if you’re in water). Each time use half a teaspoon for the face and each arm, and a full teaspoon for each leg, the front of the body and back, remembering the ears, under the chin and the soles of the feet if lying down. If using a spray, use generously and rub in. And never use sunscreen to extend the time spent in the sun. Your skin will thank you – as will your future self.

A good suncare regime doesn’t begin and end in the lab. Responsible use is essential to ensure we’re protected

“Lightweight, non-greasy, fast-absorbing sunscreens in gel or fluid forms work best under makeup,” says Dr Murthy. “Primers and setting sprays with SPF can add a layer of protection but should not be your only sun defence. Coverage is often insufficient unless reapplied generously, so they should be used as a supplement, not a replacement.” She advises choosing products with clear SPF labelling and broad-spectrum claims, and ideally those tested for efficacy when used over makeup. “Brands like Supergoop!, Intradermology, Murad and Live Tinted are recognised for offering innovative SPF-makeup hybrids with real protection, without compromising makeup wear.” Also on our radar are Colorescience and Heliocare.

Emma Moore is a writer and editor with a focus in beauty, wellness and design. She began her career at The Sunday Times Style, where she became the magazine’s first beauty director. She was also lifestyle director at Wallpaper* magazine and now writes for a number of international titles.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: COUNTER/DIGITALVISION/GETTY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

YOU WANT: SPF THAT WORKS WITH MAKE-UP

THE BOTTOM LINE

18ñ21 June 2026

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FIBREMA X XING What should you believe?

Roast cauliflower and chickpeas with green tahini and pink onions, p136

Bestselling author and nutritionist Rhiannon Lambert reveals the truths and the hype behind the latest health trend Words, recipes and photographs RHIANNON LAMBERT 134

ellness trends gained traction in the 1970s in the USA, driven by alternative health and self-care philosophies. In the 1990s, lifestyle magazines began to promote wellness as aspirational, linking it with beauty, fitness and luxury. Today, social media – fuelled by branded content – has brought a wellness explosion. Today’s wellness trends reflect both its counter-cultural origins and its evolution into a multibillion dollar industry. There has been a move on social media toward fibre as the next great hack – from bowls of pastel-hued oats to so-called detox drinks. Some practices are harmless and can support increased fibre intake but others distort the science or rely on unsupported claims. Below are some of the most prominent fibre-related wellness trends, assessed for validity and whether they genuinely benefit health or simply capitalise on cultural wellness phenomena.

GREEN POWDERS

Often seen as a shortcut to better health, green powders are concentrated blends of dried and ground vegetables, herbs, algae and grasses. They’re promoted for their high vitamin and mineral content, and often boast long lists of nutrients. However, they typically contain virtually no fibre and are not a substitute for the complex texture, bulk and nutritional matrix of fruits and vegetables in their natural state. Worryingly these products are not always subject to strict regulation and the accuracy of their nutrient claims can be difficult to verify, particularly when the powders are bought online from lesser-known brands that may lack independent testing or quality control. While these powders may help fill the gap on days when fruit and vegetable intake is low, they cannot replace real food and won’t improve your fibre levels.

SEA MOSS

This trendy seaweed is promoted as a gut and skin saviour but the actual scientific evidence is extremely limited. While it does contain some vitamins and minerals, claims around detoxification, immunity or fibre-related benefits are largely unproven. Like any single superfood, sea moss is unlikely to offer much without a balanced fibre-rich diet around it.

GUT CLEANSERS

Often marketed as teas, powders or juice fasts, these products usually promise to reset or clean out your digestive system. In reality the gut is not a pipe that needs cleaning. These cleanses rarely contain much fibre at all and can even disrupt digestion if they lack solid food or hydration. In addition to this, full juice cleanses typically exclude most other essential nutrients from the diet, including protein, healthy fats and fibre, making them nutritionally unbalanced and unsustainable in the long term.

CHIA SEED WATER

TikTok’s ‘internal shower’ drink has brought chia seeds newfound popularity. The claim is simple: 1-2 tbsp of chia seeds soaked in a glass of water, then drunk, are a natural laxative to flush out the gut and support weight loss. It’s true that chia seeds are nutritionally dense (1 tbsp provides roughly 5g of dietary fibre, alongside small amounts of protein, omega-3 fatty acids and micronutrients). Hydrated, they can bulk and soften stools to help relieve mild constipation in those with low fibre intake. However, the online claims are far broader than evidence supports. The idea that chia water melts fat or significantly suppresses hunger is misleading. The plumped seeds may give a brief sense of fullness but the volume needed to meaningfully blunt appetite is impractical and the calories from those additional seeds negates any supposed weightloss benefit.

FIBREMAXXING

Popular in certain online wellness spaces, this involves aggressively increasing fibre through powders, seeds and fortified snacks. While increasing fibre intake is something we all need to do, suddenly ramping up intake can cause bloating, cramps or constipation, especially without adequate hydration. A gradual increase in fibre intake from whole foods is far more effective and sustainable.

THE PLANT POINTS TREND

Encouraging a wide variety of plant foods each week (such as aiming for 30+ types) is a positive trend backed by research for the American Gut Project. Greater diversity in plant intake supports a more diverse gut microbiome, especially when wholegrains, legumes, vegetables, fruits, nuts and seeds are involved.

» TURN OVER TO TRY SOME NOURISHING RECIPES

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Roast cauliflower and chickpeas with green tahini and pink onions

Green butter bean mac and fibre cheese

Never let anyone tell you that cauliflower is bland. Roasting it with chickpeas brings out a gorgeous nuttiness. This vegetarian dish is perfect for sharing at the weekend or for enjoying as a quick, nourishing weekday lunch.

Made with wholewheat macaroni, a blend of butter beans and healthy greens, this recipe boosts fibre without compromising the classic cheesy flavour you’d expect from such a guaranteed family favourite. It’s delicious proof that comfort food can still be wonderfully nutritious.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 35 MINS | EASY 850g cauliflower, stem trimmed 400g tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed 4 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander 1 /2 tsp ground cinnamon 1 /2 tsp smoked paprika 300g cherry tomatoes, halved PICKLED ONION 1 small red onion, sliced 1 /2 lemon, juiced 1 tsp caster sugar GREEN TAHINI 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped 175g tahini 1 lemon, juiced 3 tbsp olive oil 2 handfuls of parsley leaves, roughly chopped, plus extra to serve small handful of mint leaves, roughly chopped, plus extra to serve Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Cut the cauliflower into large florets and slice the stem into large chunks, keeping any nice leaves. Put all the pieces, except the leaves, in a bowl with the chickpeas, oil and spices, and season generously with salt and pepper. Mix everything together with your hands until well coated, then spread out on a large baking tray (use two if it’s overcrowded).

150g cavolo nero, kale or spinach, stems removed if necessary 300g wholewheat macaroni 2 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil 1 large leek, sliced 2 garlic cloves, sliced 2 x 400g tins of butter beans 1 /4 nutmeg, grated 150g mixture of cheddar, red leicester, gouda and gruyère, grated 75g parmesan (or vegetarian alternative), grated Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and cook the greens for 5-6 mins until tender. Scoop them out and set aside. Cook the macaroni in the same boiling water following pack instructions until al dente. Drain, reserving a cupful of the cooking water. Meanwhile heat the oil in a pan over a medium heat and cook the leek and garlic for 5-7 mins until softened and beginning to colour. Reserve 120g of the beans, then transfer the rest, including their liquid, to a blender with the greens. Add the nutmeg and plenty of salt and pepper, and whizz until it forms a smooth, vibrant green sauce. Pour the sauce into a baking dish.

Roast for 15 mins, stir, add the cauliflower leaves (if using), then roast for 15-20 mins until the edges of the cauliflower are golden and crisp, and the chickpeas have firmed up.

Heat the grill to medium. Combine the cheeses in a bowl. Stir the drained pasta into the baking dish along with all but two big handfuls of the cheese. Tip in the reserved beans and the cooked leek and garlic mixture, then stir well to combine, adding a few splashes of cooking water until the mixture reaches your desired consistency. Scatter over the remaining cheese.

Meanwhile, put the onion in a small bowl, add the lemon juice and toss with the sugar and a pinch of salt.

While the mixture is still hot, grill for 4-6 mins until the cheese is melted and the sauce is bubbling.

Put all the tahini ingredients and 4 tbsp of water in a blender or small food processor with a big pinch of salt and pepper, and whizz until smooth. If the mixture is a little thick, keep adding water and whizzing until you have a lovely, fluffy dip. Adjust the seasoning – you may want to add more lemon juice, too. Spread the tahini on the bottom of a big serving plate and tumble the cauliflower and chickpeas on top. Arrange the tomatoes around the plate and scatter with the pickled onions and a few parsley and mint leaves.

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SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY

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Potato farls with smashed avocado, feta and mint Soft and golden, these Irish griddle breads make a lovely alternative to toast. Prepare a batch at the weekend – they will keep beautifully for easy breakfasts throughout the week, and the cooling and reheating increases the resistant starch. If you have left-over potatoes in the fridge, use those instead of boiling from scratch.

Return the potatoes to the pan and mash them until smooth. Ideally chill for 12-24 hrs but if you’re short on time spread the mash over a plate to help it cool quickly, then chill until cold.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 40 MINS | EASY

Stir the butter into the cooled potatoes with the flour and flaxseeds. Season with a little pepper, taste and adjust the salt if necessary. Combine until you have a pliable but not too sticky dough.

450g floury potatoes (such as Maris Piper), scrubbed 60g butter, melted, plus extra for frying 100g wholemeal flour, plus extra to dust 2 tbsp ground flaxseeds SMASHED AVOCADO 2 avocados 1 /2 lemon, juiced small handful of mint leaves, chopped 70g feta, crumbled pinch of dried chilli flakes, to serve (optional) Cut the potatoes into large even-sized chunks and put in a pan of cold salted water. Cover with a lid and bring to the boil. Cook for 12-15 mins or until the potatoes are tender, then drain in a colander. Set the colander over the pan and leave the potatoes to steam-dry for 10 mins.

Put the avocados in a bowl and crush with a fork to a coarse consistency. Stir in the lemon juice, mint and feta, and season to taste.

Dust your hands with flour. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and shape into a ball. Cut the ball in half and roll one half into a rough 15-17cm circle. Cut the circle into four quarters. Heat a large non-stick frying pan or skillet over a medium heat and grease it lightly with butter. Once hot, cook the farl quarters for 3 mins until golden on the underside. Gently turn over and cook on the other side for 7-8 min, until heated through and golden. Transfer to a warm oven while you repeat with the remaining half of dough. Divide the farls between four serving plates and top with the smashed avocado and a pinch of chilli flakes, if you like.

Recipes extracted from The Fibre Formula: Feed Your Gut, Support Immunity & Live Well for Longer by Rhiannon Lambert (£20, DK). Photographs: Dorling Kindersley/Clare Winfield. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

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RECIPE INDEX

52 70 32

Starters and snacks

105 Curd cheese syrniki V 54 Fermented rhubarb hot sauce VE GF 34 French garlic bread V 52 Glazed portobello, edamame hummus and radish salad V 104 Pickled watermelon VE GF 138 Potato farls with smashed avocado, feta and mint V 102 Roasted peppers with two dressings V GF 20 Summer dips sharing board V 32 Warm tomato salad V

Mains and sides

126 Bean protein pot with soy-marinated eggs and kimchi V 10 Briam V GF 24 Chargrilled bang bang chicken noodle salad 145 Colombian huevos pericos V GF 136 Green butter bean mac and fibre cheese V

124 H Hasselback lb aubergine with green tahini and speedy grain salad V 22 Honey roast halloumi and summer veg spiral pie V 60 Lamb shoulder with charred salsa rossa 29 Leek, gruyère and asparagus flamiche 124 Mexican fattoush V 34 Provençal tuna casserole 136 Roast cauliflower and chickpeas with green tahini and pink onions VE GF 8 Runner bean and chorizo salad with whipped feta 58 Spatchcocked chicken, chorizo, tomatoes and cream 58 Spiced roast side of salmon with capers GF

Desserts and bakes

62 Double chocolate panna cotta with cherries 12 Gooseberry custard tart V 40 Limoncello drizzle cake V 44 Limoncello tiramisu V 52 Strawberry sumac pavlova with pistachios and basil V GF 26 Toasted coconut and mango tres leches cake V

Drinks

42 Limoncello spritz 70 Strawberry tequila sangria 71 Spicy peach palomas 68 Tequila and watermelon frosé GF

Gluten-free VE Vegan

Vegetarian

36 Apricot frangipane tart V 48 Banana-misu sundae V 14 Blueberry loaf cake V

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Verna eats

CO LO M B I A

Each month our columnist shares a recipe inspired by her travels, plus tips for making your own version at home Recipe VERNA GAO Photographs MOWIE KAY

SHOOT DIRECTOR: LAURIE NEWMAN. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY STEPHENSON

Colombian huevos pericos I had no idea what to expect with Colombian cuisine but after three weeks travelling across the country I learned so much. Colombian food changes a lot depending on where you are. In Cartagena on the coast it’s all about fresh seafood, coconut rice and fried plantains thanks to the Caribbean influence. In Medellín you’ll find bandeja paisa – a giant platter of beans, rice, pork belly and avocado. Up in Bogotá the higher altitude means lots of warming soups with beef or chicken and potatoes, perfect for the cooler climate. It’s also where I tried hot chocolate with cheese for the first time – and, honestly, I didn’t hate it! One thing you’ll never struggle to find? Street food. From grilled meats and sausages, to empanadas and endless snacks it felt like every corner had something new to try. Here I’ve made Colombian-style fluffy scrambled eggs cooked with sautéed tomatoes and spring onions.

SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY 1 plantain, sliced olive oil, for frying 2 tomatoes, finely diced 4 spring onions, sliced, greens and whites separated 4 eggs, beaten ½ large avocado, sliced feta, cut into a few slices flatbreads, to serve Fry the plantain in a small non-stick frying pan over a medium heat until golden. Set aside and keep warm. Heat 2 tbsp of oil in a separate frying pan over a medium heat. Cook the tomatoes and spring onion whites for 3-5 mins until soft, then stir in the eggs. Season and cook gently until just set. Sprinkle over the spring onion greens, drizzle with a little more oil then serve with the plantain, avocado, feta and flatbreads. PER SERVING 607 kcals • fat 37G • saturates 11G carbs 44G • sugars 24G • fibre 7G • protein 21G • salt 1.2G

Verna Gao is a Shanghai-born chef, presenter, creator and author. She uses cooking as a means of staying connected to her Chinese heritage and loves travelling to learn about cultures through eating, as well as for recipe inspiration. Her book, Have You Eaten?, is out now. Follow her on Instagram @vernahungrybanana.

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Verna eats

CO LO M B I A To see Verna making this recipe, head to olive’s Instagram page TRY MY RECIPE ON PAGE 145

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From grilled meats and sausages to empanadas and endless snacks, it felt like every corner had something new to try

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