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Zesty limoncello meringue trifle

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NO-NONSENSE NUTRITION

Editor’s letter

don’t need much of an excuse to throw a gettogether but I feel like spring is a season that encourages it. The short, dark days of winter are fading and there’s the long Easter weekend and Mother’s Day, as well as two May bank holidays to look forward to. Plenty of reasons to spend a bit of time making beautiful food for family and friends, starting with our gorgeous, zesty lemon trifle cover star. For the rest of your entertaining needs we have plenty of crowdpleasing dishes, from a totally hands-off slow-cooked lamb one-pot (p20) to Maunika Gowardhan’s luxe Keralan curries (p50) and Georgie Mullen’s seasonal vegetarian menu for four (p31). If this time of year has you thinking about new travel horizons, have a look at our dreamy feature following a trip through Norway’s fjords (p80). Seafood, saunas and spectacular views make this a popular destination for a restorative nature escape – one to bookmark for later. At olive, we don’t believe in chasing health fads. Instead we focus on simple, sustainable habits you can adapt and make your own. That’s why we love Dominique Ludwig’s no-nonsense approach, which you can read about on page 134. As a registered nutritional therapist, her advice is grounded, practical and genuinely actionable. And she backs it all up with delicious, achievable recipes to try at home.

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COOK THE COVER EDITORIAL TEAM OF THE YEAR olive magazine and Good Food

Brighten your table with a showstopping trifle layered with lemon curd, custard, limoncello and Italian meringue, p26. COVER PHOTOGRAPH: ANT DUNCAN. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR. PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPH: CHRIS TERRY

food 7

What to cook now

Crowd pleasers

Gurd Loyal’s hot takes

A taste of spring

Ideas to make the most of seasonal produce. Put on a show with easy sharing dishes for the long weekend.

Our trends expert explores Cambodian flavours.

Shelf love

Create magic with miso, from hearty meatballs to a creative bake.

Edd Kimber’s modern baking A favourite nostalgic combination becomes a showstopper cake.

Signature dishes

Maunika Gowardhan captures the flavours of Kerala.

Chocolate heaven

An indulgent dessert for whichever kind of chocolate lover you are.

travel

A celebration-worthy seasonal menu from Georgie Mullen.

77 66

Wine 101

See the surprising wine influences on the Italian island of Sicily.

Slow travel

Arty escapes

Why I love the Western Cape

Aperitif hour

We pick out the best bottles and barware.

143 Recipe index 145 Verna eats South Korea

Our columnist recreates spicy pork bulgogi.

The underground spots offering cosy luxury.

Long weekend

Three tempting cocktails to enjoy over the Easter break.

Barhopper

Cold water dips and fresh seafood: take your time to explore Norway’s fjords. These gallery-like curated hotels promise a beautiful stay. Must-try South African cuisine.

102 Cook like a local

Sharing plates and vibrant, fresh flavours from Lebanon.

Contents SPRING EDIT

124 wellbeing

don’t miss 16

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Reader offer

124 Easy seasonal nourishment

Nutrient-rich recipes for a new season.

108 Spotlight on Shropshire

Head to the Midlands for live fire cooking and a town dedicated to food.

116 Book a quietcation

Four intentionally peaceful, calminducing trips.

121 My London

West Hampstead’s top foodie picks.

130 Reclaim your body balance

A nutritionist explains how weight loss drugs may be affecting body image.

134 The six principles of no-nonsense nutrition

Easy principles to live by when it comes to your diet.

Treat yourself or a loved one to a six-month olive subscription for just £20. A culinary exploration of Puglia.

120 Reader offer

Spend your summer in Andalusia or the Dalmatian Coast.

133 Coming next issue

Find out what’s in store in your next issue of olive.

122 Weekender

Everywhere worth visiting in Prague.

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WHAT TO COOK T NOW N Make the most of the season’s best produce with these restorative recipes

Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH

Smoked haddock, gruyère and watercress tart This rich tart makes a lovely dish for a spring lunch – serve with a crisp green salad. SERVES 6 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 1 HR 10 MINS | EASY 250g shortcrust pastry 2 smoked haddock fillets knob of butter 1 large leek, white part halved, washed and finely sliced (keep the dark green for stock) 50g watercress, roughly chopped 3 eggs, plus 1 yolk ½ tsp dijon mustard (optional) 100ml double cream 100g gruyère, finely grated crisp green salad, to serve Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Roll out the pastry wider than your tin, then use to line a 20-22cm deep tart tin, leaving some pastry overhanging. Line the tart with a scrunched-up piece of baking paper then tip in baking beans or dried beans. Bake for 10 mins then remove the beans and paper, and cook for 10-15 mins until the pastry is no longer raw. Remove and turn down the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Trim the overhanging pastry. To make the filling, put the haddock fillets in a small frying pan and just cover with water. Bring to a gentle simmer then turn off the heat and cover. Leave while you make the rest of the filling. Heat the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat then cook the leek for 10 mins until softened. Add the watercress and cook until just wilted. Whisk the eggs, yolk, mustard, if using, and cream in a bowl, and season well with salt and white pepper.

Drain the haddock on kitchen paper then flake into large chunks, discarding any skin or bones. Arrange in the bottom of the tart case then spoon over the egg mixture. Bake for 25-30 mins until set. Let the tart sit for 15 mins before serving with a side of crisp green salad. PER SERVING 441 kcals • fat 32G • saturates 15G carbs 17G • sugars 1G • fibre 3G • protein 19G • salt 1G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLIST: JESSICA MCINTOSH

Stir in the leek and watercress, then stir in the cheese.

Beetroot carpaccio with stracciatella and pistachio pesto This vibrant dish would make a brilliant starter – serve it on a big platter for sharing and hand round extra pesto for people that want it. Stracciatella is the creamy inside of a burrata – find it in tubs or just tear a couple of burratas over the beets. SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | PREP 20 MINS PLUS MARINATING | EASY 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar 2 tsp caster sugar 4 small raw beetroots 2 x 150g tubs of stracciatella or 2 burratas crusty baguette, to serve PESTO 75g basil 50g shelled pistachios 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped 125ml extra-virgin olive oil 50g parmesan, finely grated Mix together the vinegar and sugar until the sugar dissolves. Peel the beets and use a mandoline to slice them very thinly. Put in a plastic container then pour over the vinegar and stir to cover everything. Leave for at least 2 hrs (or overnight if you prefer). To make the pesto, briefly blitz the basil, pistachios and garlic in a small blender or food processor. Add the oil and whizz again until blended. Stir in the parmesan, taste and season. When ready to serve, arrange the beets on a platter. Top with the stracciatella, drizzle over the pesto and serve with a crusty baguette. PER SERVING 592 kcals • fat 55G • saturates 15G carbs 10G • sugars 7G • fibre 3G • protein 13G • salt 0.6G

Wild garlic and cheese scones Wild garlic has a short season so grab it while you can and make these comforting cheesy scones. MAKES 6-8 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 25 MINS | EASY 350g self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp baking powder 80g salted butter, chilled and diced, plus extra to serve 150g mature cheddar, coarsely grated 30g wild garlic leaves, washed and chopped 175ml-200ml milk, plus extra for brushing Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 and put in a baking tray to heat up. Mix the flour, baking powder and ½ tsp of salt in a large bowl. Add the butter then rub the flour and butter together with the tips of your fingers until the mixture resembles rough breadcrumbs. Mix in 125g of the cheese and all the wild garlic. Gradually stir in just enough milk to make a soft dough. Lightly flour a worksurface, then turn out the dough and gently pat into a 3cm-deep circle. Lift onto a large piece of baking paper. Use a knife to score the top deeply into 6-8 wedges (but don’t go all the way through) then brush with milk. Scatter with the remaining cheese then take the hot baking tray out of the oven and carefully slide the scone and its baking paper on top. Bake for 25 mins until risen and deep golden. Leave to cool a little before serving with salted butter for spreading. PER SERVING (8) 327 kcals • fat 16G • saturates 10G carbs 35G • sugars 1G • fibre 2G • protein 10G • salt 1.4G

Blood orange crêpes suzette When blood oranges are in season make the most of their sweet, floral character in this updated classic. You can make the sauce (and crêpes) ahead of time, then just warm them through in the syrup. SERVES 4 (2-3 CRÊPES EACH) | PREP 10 MINS PLUS RESTING COOK 30 MINS | EASY 300ml semi-skimmed milk 100g plain flour 1 tbsp caster sugar (optional) 2 eggs 1 tbsp melted butter, plus extra for frying vanilla ice cream, to serve BLOOD ORANGE SAUCE 100g caster sugar 200ml blood orange juice, plus the zest of one orange 4 tbsp Cointreau 50g butter To make the crêpes, put the milk, flour, sugar (if using), eggs, butter and a pinch of salt in a blender. Whizz until smooth and the consistency of single cream. Rest for 15 mins. Heat 1 tsp of butter in a non-stick crêpe pan or 15cm frying pan, and brush around the base of the pan. Add a small ladle of the mixture then tilt the pan to thinly coat the base. Cook for 1-2 mins until the edges release from the side of the pan, then flip and cook for a further minute until lightly brown in places. Repeat until you use all the batter – you should be able to make about 12 crêpes. Keep warm in a low oven while you cook the rest. To make the sauce, tip the sugar into a lightly coloured frying pan and heat without stirring until the sugar has melted and is the colour of a copper coin. Remove from the hob and slowly add the orange juice (it might splutter so be careful). Return to a medium heat and simmer until any hardened caramel has melted back into the sauce. Add the zest and Cointreau, and simmer for 5 mins, then whisk in the butter. Heat the crêpes gently in the sauce then fold into quarters and serve on warm plates with ice cream and extra sauce drizzled over the top. PER SERVING 447 kcals • fat 18G • saturates 11G carbs 52G • sugars 33G • fibre 1G • protein 9G • salt 0.5G

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Easy show-off dishes for the long weekend Words and recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs ANT DUNCAN

This efortless one-pot is cooked with fragrant spices of cinnamon and allspice which don’t overpower but give a gentle warmth to the finished dish. Fresh herbs, feta and lemon give everything a final lift. Bring the whole dish to the table for maximum wow-factor

Slow-cooked spiced lamb with orzo 2 large onions, peeled olive oil 1 leg of lamb 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp paprika 1 /2 tsp ground allspice 400g tin of cherry tomatoes 3 garlic cloves, crushed few thyme sprigs 400ml chicken stock 1 /2 lemon, sliced 300g orzo TO SERVE 50-100g feta, crumbled small handful of mint leaves small handful of parsley 1 /2 lemon, zested and juiced

Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Cut the onions into thick discs and put in the bottom of a roasting tin, casserole or baking dish the lamb will fit snugly into. Drizzle with a little oil and season with salt and pepper. Sit the lamb on top of the onions then rub all over with oil. Mix the spices with 1 tsp of salt and a few grinds of pepper, and rub half of this all over the lamb. Roast uncovered for 30 mins then take out and turn down the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Tip in the tomatoes, garlic, thyme, the remaining spices and stock. Add the lemon slices to the tin then cover with a lid or a double layer of foil and put back in the oven for 3 hrs 30 mins. Remove the foil. Stir the orzo into the juices, then cover loosely and put back in the oven for 15-20 mins until the orzo is tender. To serve, scatter over the feta, mint, parsley, lemon zest and a squeeze of lemon juice. PER SERVING (8) 647 kcals • fat 29G • saturates 12G carbs 35G • sugars 6G • fibre 4G • protein 59G • salt 1.4G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

SERVES 6-8 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 4 HRS | EASY

Cowboy butter-roasted chicken A punchy butter gives an instant flavour boost to roast chicken. Spatchcocking the bird means it roasts evenly and fast – and is much easier to carve for guests. Serve with skinny fries and a vinegary salad to cut through the richness, and don’t forget to spoon over all the buttery chicken juices. SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS RESTING | COOK 1 HR | EASY 1.2-1.5kg chicken 1 lemon, sliced cooked french fries, to serve COWBOY BUTTER 100g salted butter, softened 1 lemon, zested and juiced 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 tsp dijon mustard 1 tsp hot horseradish cream ½ tsp smoked paprika 1 tbsp chopped chives 1 tbsp chopped parsley ½ tsp aleppo pepper or other chilli flakes VINAIGRETTE SALAD 1 tbsp red wine vinegar ½ tsp dijon mustard 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp baby capers 1 shallot, finely chopped green and purple salad leaves Mix together all the butter ingredients and season. Flip the chicken on its front then use kitchen scissors to cut down either side of the backbone and remove. Turn the right way up and press down to flatten. Sit in a roasting dish or tray lined with the lemon slices. Loosen the skin away from the breast and thighs by gently pushing your fingers in between. Push some of the butter under the skin, moving it down and around. Rub more of the butter all over the surface of the chicken – you can prepare this ahead if you like and leave in the fridge until you are ready to cook. Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Roast for 1 hr, basting the chicken a couple of times. Take out and rest under loose foil for 20 mins. Whisk together the vinegar, mustard and oil for the salad dressing then stir in the capers and shallot. Use to dress the salad leaves. Carve the chicken into eight pieces and serve with the salad and fries. PER SERVING 746 kcals • fat 55G • saturates 21G carbs 3G • sugars 2G • fibre 2G • protein 60G • salt 1.5G

This is a great way to serve a mix and match spread for friends. Traditionally you’d serve raclete simply with boiled potatoes, charcuterie and pickles to tip the moten cheese onto but we’ve added a few extra flourishes to make your guests feel you’ve worked extra hard! You can buy various raclete sets but it’s also easy to use small heatproof frying pans or dishes

Raclette party SERVES 6-8 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY 500g raclette 160g parma ham 180g salami 200g mortadella 2 small baguettes, sliced pickled onions sweet or hot pickled peppers cornichons HOT HONEY PICKLED PEARS 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar 2 tbsp honey ½ tsp aleppo chilli flakes or other chilli flakes 3 ripe pears, cut into thin wedges HERB AND LEMON POTATOES 1.5kg ratte potatoes 30g salted butter 2 tbsp chopped chives 2 tbsp chopped parsley ½ lemon, zested and juiced MUSTARDY CHICORY 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 tsp dijon mustard 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 3 heads of red chicory, leaves separated

To make the pears, mix together the vinegar, honey and chilli flakes. Put in a plastic container or food bag with the pears and mix. Leave to sit while you make everything else, giving an occasional shake. Boil the potatoes until just tender, then drain well and tip back in the pan with the butter. Toss until melted, then add the herbs and lemon zest and juice, and toss again. For the chicory salad, whisk together the vinegar, mustard and oil to make a dressing, then toss with the leaves. Put all of the accompaniments in bowls and on serving dishes. Put slices of raclette into small oven-proof frying pans or dishes then slide in a hot oven or under the grill until melted. Let everyone make their own plate then scoop a portion of cheese on top. PER SERVING (8) 790 kcals • fat 44G • saturates 22G carbs 59G • sugars 14G • fibre 5G • protein 36G • salt 4.2G

Boozy lemon meringue trifle This zingy spring trifle uses mostly ready-made ingredients, then is finished with a topping of marshmallowy Italian meringue. Using hot sugar syrup means the meringue is ‘cooked’ and becomes much more stable. We think it’s worth the extra effort but if you want a simpler finish you could pile up some ready-made meringues and whipped cream instead. SERVES 10-12 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 30 MINS MORE EFFORT 2 lemon curd swiss rolls 340g jar of lemon curd CUSTARD CREAM LAYER 1 tbsp cornflour 500ml vanilla custard 150g Belgian white chocolate, finely chopped 2 tbsp limoncello 1 lemon, zested 150ml double cream ITALIAN MERINGUE 4 large egg whites 1 tsp lemon juice 225g caster sugar

Slice the swiss roll and use it to line the base of a trifle dish. Use neat slices on the outside then fill the middle with the remaining swiss roll. To make the custard cream, mix the cornflour with 1 tbsp of water. Heat the custard gently, then stir in the cornflour mixture. Bring to a simmer and let the custard bubble and thicken, stirring all the time. Take off the heat and mix in the chocolate until melted. Stir in the limoncello and lemon zest. Cool completely. Whip the cream to firm peaks then fold into the cooled custard. Spoon the custard cream on top of the swiss roll slices then chill for at least 2 hrs. Spoon over the lemon curd and keep chilled until you want to serve. To make the meringue put the egg whites in a bowl (or the bowl of a stand mixer) with the lemon juice. Put the sugar and 6 tbsp of water in a pan over a medium high heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved, then bring to a boil, stop stirring and boil the liquid until the temperature reaches 120C on an instant-read or sugar thermometer. Meanwhile whisk the egg whites until they forms very soft peaks. Carefully drizzle the hot syrup into the bowl, whisking all the time (avoid pouring the syrup directly on the beaters, aim for the meringue at the side). Whisk until all of the syrup is incorporated, then keep whisking for 4-5 mins until the meringue is billowy, thick and glossy and has cooled to room temperature. Pile the meringue on top of the lemon curd. For a final flourish use a blowtorch to gently colour the meringue. PER SERVING (12) 519 kcals • fat 18G • saturates 11G carbs 82G • sugars 69G • fibre 1G • protein 5G • salt 0.4G

PHOTOGRAPH: ANT DUNCAN. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

Gurd

HOT

Loyal’s

T TAKES

Our trends expert Gurd Loyal shares a recipe that is having a moment online and in the restaurant world – here seasonal mussels get an aromatic Cambodian twist

ambodian or Khmer cuisine is among the oldest of Southeast Asia’s culinary traditions, pulling influences from ancient Khmer cooking, Thai, Vietnamese and Chinese cuisines. Freshness and aromatic complexity are defining features – along with the balancing of salty, sweet, sour and bitter elements, with umami depth added through fermentation. Primarily a rice-based cuisine, Cambodian food is heavy with flavours of garlic, shallots, lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, makrut lime and ginger, along with prahok (fermented fish paste) and kapi (shrimp paste). Herbs like thai basil, coriander and mint are used in abundance, as is the signature spice of the cuisine – black kampot pepper (a mixture of green and black peppercorns is a good alternative). Star anise, cinnamon and cardamom also feature often, with sweet and acidic elements added through palm sugar, tamarind, lime and vinegar. This recipe for Cambodian-style mussels plays with the flavours of the region, layering them into the dish in many ways – firstly with an aromatic paste that adds fragrant depth; secondly by combining whole and ground spices for complexity with lots of obligatory peppercorns; thirdly by adding in coconut milk for richness; fourthly with fish sauce for umami savouriness; and lastly with limes for sour tang and fresh aromatic herbs for vibrant freshness. To try a taste of Cambodian food yourself, head to chef Kaneda Pen’s Mamapen at Sun & 13 Cantons in Soho, an exciting beacon of Cambodian cuisine in London. The menu includes dishes like panko pork toast with drunken master XO, sour pineapple curry and Khmer BBQ chicken with shaoxing teriyaki glaze and tuk trey koh kong. In Philadelphia, USA, Mawn is a Cambodian noodle bar that is one of the hottest restaurants in America right now, while, in San Francisco, Lunette is another exciting bastion of Cambodian cuisine. To cook Cambodian at home, check out the new cookbook My Cambodia: A Khmer Cookbook by Nite Yun.

Cambodian-style aromatic mussels SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 12 MINS | EASY 1.75kg fresh mussels 2 tbsp black peppercorns 1 tbsp green peppercorns 2 tbsp coriander seeds 1 large star anise 4 garlic cloves 40g galangal or ginger 30g lemongrass (about 2 stalks), roughly chopped 4 large fresh lime leaves 1 large red chilli 2 tsp ground turmeric 11/2 tbsp coconut oil 1 large onion, diced 400ml tin of coconut milk 2 tbsp fish sauce 2 tbsp palm or brown sugar 2 large limes, zested and juiced 20g thai basil or mint, chopped, to garnish steamed rice or crusty baguette, to serve Sort through the mussels, discarding any that are cracked or that don’t close when tapped. Wash and remove any overhanging beards. Put half the black and green peppercorns, and half of the coriander seeds in a grinder with the star anise. Blitz to a fine powder. Next make the aromatic paste. Blitz the garlic, galangal (or ginger), lemongrass, lime leaves, chilli, turmeric and a large splash of water in a small blender or food processor to a very fine paste, adding a little more water if needed. Put 1 tbsp of coconut oil in a large deep pan, then fry the onion with a pinch for salt for 3-4 mins. Add the remaining 1 /2 tbsp of coconut oil, then the spice powder, frying for 1 min, being careful it doesn’t burn. Add in the aromatic paste and fry for 2-3 mins, adding a splash of water if it gets too dry. Stir through the mussels, coating them in the paste. Add the coconut milk, fish sauce, palm sugar, 2 tsp of salt and the remaining black and green peppercorns, and coriander seeds. Mix well, then cover with a lid and cook for 5-6 mins until the mussels have all opened. Shake well with the lid on, then remove the lid and cook for another 2 mins. Stir through the lime zest and juice, then check for seasoning, adding more salt or sugar if needed. Discard any mussels that have not opened during cooking. Garnish with thai basil or mint and serve with warm rice or a crusty baguette. PER SERVING 420 kcals • fat 24G • saturates 19G carbs 22G • sugars 16G • fibre 4G • protein 26G • salt 5.7G

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SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

SPRING

Whatever the occasion, share the love with this elegant menu from author and creator Georgie Mullen Recipes GEORGIE MULLEN Photographs ANT DUNCAN 31

Menu Rhubarb and elderflower spritz Purple sprouting broccoli tempura with wild garlic aïoli New potato, raclette and spring onion galette White chocolate mousse with poached rhubarb

Purple sprouting broccoli tempura with wild garlic aïoli Purple sprouting broccoli always feels like a small seasonal celebration, the first signs of green after months of root veg and stews. This recipe works beautifully as a starter or as a snack with a cocktail. It’s a little plate of green magic.

Start by making the aïoli. Combine the wild garlic and oil in a jug. Use a hand blender to blitz until mostly smooth. Add the egg, mustard, lemon juice, vinegar and a good pinch of salt, then blitz for a minute or so until thick, glossy and pale green. Taste and adjust the seasoning and/or acid, if needed. Chill until ready to serve.

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | MORE EFFORT

Heat 2.5cm depth of oil in a medium pan over a medium heat. Let it warm while making the batter.

neutral oil, for frying 215g plain flour 400ml sparkling water, cold 500g purple sprouting broccoli, very large stems sliced in two WILD GARLIC AÏOLI 15-20g wild garlic (depending on how strong you like the flavour), washed thoroughly 175ml mild olive oil 1 egg 1 tsp dijon mustard 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tsp white wine vinegar

Combine the flour and a good pinch of salt in a mixing bowl. Whisk as you add the sparkling water until you have a smooth thin batter. Dip each broccoli spear into the batter and coat it well, then gently lower it straight into the hot oil – if the oil is spitting, add a good pinch of salt, which should stop it. Fry 5-6 spears at a time for 3 mins until crunchy and lightly golden on both sides, testing the first few to ensure the batter isn’t frying too quickly, leaving the broccoli uncooked inside. If they cook too quickly, turn down the heat. Remove each one from the oil as it is ready and onto a few sheets of kitchen paper to soak up the excess oil. Pile the broccoli tempura on a plate and sprinkle with sea salt flakes. Serve with the aïoli on the side for dipping.

Tips The secrets to perfectly light, crisp tempura batter are ice-cold sparkling water, to not overmix the batter and to get your oil to the right temperature. To test, drop a small amount of batter into the oil – it should immediately bubble up and float. But if the oil gets too hot, the batter will burn before the broccoli has cooked through. Test the temperature with the first few and you’ll get there. The wild garlic aïoli can be made up to three days ahead.

PER SERVING 676 kcals • fat 51G • saturates 7G carbs 38G • sugars 3G • fibre 8G • protein 11G • salt 0.7G

New potato, raclette and spring onion galette I love making pastry – rubbing the flour and butter between my fingertips might be the most therapeutic job in the kitchen. If you are new to pastry, a galette is a good place to start – they are supposed to look rustic. SERVES 6 | PREP 35 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 50 MINS | MORE EFFORT 40g unsalted butter 180g spring onions, finely sliced 2 tsp caraway seeds 500g new potatoes, sliced very thinly with a mandoline (see tip) 150g raclette, grated 30g parmesan, grated 1 egg, beaten PASTRY 240g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 125g unsalted butter, chilled and diced TO SERVE salad leaves dressed with lemon juice and olive oil

Rhubarb and elderflower spritz Forced rhubarb is in season between January and March, and is known for its slender stalks and vibrant pink colour. After March you’ll find outdoor-grown rhubarb, which is available until summer - slightly less vibrant and a little less sweet. For its lively pink I like using forced rhubarb in this cocktail but if you can only find outdoor-grown rhubarb, a small splash of red food colouring in the syrup will help boost the colour. Don’t throw the rhubarb purée left in the sieve away – I eat it with yogurt and granola in the morning. SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY 400ml rhubarb syrup (see below) 100ml gin 400ml sparkling wine sparkling elderflower, to top up RHUBARB SYRUP 8 large rhubarb stalks, chopped into 2.5cm pieces 370g caster sugar 2 strips of lemon peel To make the syrup, combine the rhubarb, sugar, lemon peel and 300ml of water in a pan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 6-8 mins until the rhubarb is breaking apart. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool completely before straining through a fine sieve. Chill until ready to use. To make the cocktail, fill four wine glasses with ice. Fill each with 100ml of the syrup, 25ml of gin and 100ml of sparkling wine. Give each a stir, then top up with the sparkling elderflower. Garnish with a strip of rhubarb, if you like.

Tip Use a speed peeler to peel strips from the rhubarb stalks and wrap them around the inside of each glass – optional but looks gorgeous. 34

To make the pastry, combine the flour and a pinch of salt in a mixing bowl. Add the butter and use your fingers to work it into the flour until it resembles rough breadcrumbs. Add 40-60ml of ice-cold water and knead together very briefly, being careful not to overwork it, until the mixture forms a dough. Gently mould into a disc shape, wrap in clingfilm and chill for 30 mins. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Melt the butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Gently cook the spring onions, caraway and a pinch of salt for 2-3 mins until they are beginning to turn translucent. Add the potatoes and a good pinch of salt, stir and put on a lid. Cook for 10-15 mins, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes have softened but are still holding their shape. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. Put a large sheet of baking paper on a worksurface and sprinkle with flour. Roll out the pastry with a floured rolling pin into a roughly 35cm diameter circle. Layer the potato mixture, raclette and parmesan in a few batches in the centre of the pastry circle, leaving a 5cm border. Gently fold the excess pastry over the filling, using the baking paper underneath to help lift it. Brush the visible pastry with the egg and grind over some black pepper. Transfer the galette, still on the baking paper, onto a baking tray. Bake for 45-55 mins until the pastry is golden and the filling is bubbling. Rest for 15 mins before serving. Delicious on its own or with a lemony side salad. PER SERVING 549 kcals • fat 33G • saturates 21G carbs 45G • sugars 2G • fibre 4G • protein 16G • salt 0.5G

Tip You do need a mandoline for best results here. The potatoes should be sliced so thinly you can see light through them. Mandolines are more than worth the investment and will save you time in everyday cooking. I use mine almost every day.

White chocolate mousse with poached rhubarb White chocolate and rhubarb are a gorgeous match. The mousse is silky and sweet, balanced by the tart poached rhubarb. You can prepare both the mousse and the poached rhubarb up to three days in advance, making this a perfect pud for hosting. SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | MORE EFFORT 90g good-quality white chocolate 3 medium egg whites 50g caster sugar 100g double cream 1 /2 tsp vanilla bean paste RHUBARB 250g caster sugar 400g forced rhubarb, chopped into 6cm batons

Start by making the mousse. Finely chop the chocolate, then melt it gently, stirring frequently, in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of softly simmering water (ensuring the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water). Remove the bowl from the heat and set aside to cool. Combine the egg whites, sugar and a small pinch of salt in the bowl of a stand mixer (you could also do this with an electric whisk). Whip for 3-5 mins until the whites form stiff peaks. In another bowl, gently whip the cream and vanilla until gently thickened and forming soft peaks – I always whip this by hand, as it is easier to control. Use a spatula to gently fold the egg whites, a spoonful at a time, into the mostly cooled chocolate – the aim is to keep as much air in the egg whites as possible, so slow and gentle is the key. Next, do the same with the whipped cream, folding it gently into the mousse until fully combined. Transfer the mousse into an airtight container (or serving dishes), then put in the fridge for at least an hour until fully chilled. While the mousse is chilling, make the poached rhubarb. Combine the sugar and 250ml of water in a medium pan and bring to a boil. Add the rhubarb, stir, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Cook for 3 mins (or 2 mins if the stalks are quite thin), then remove the pan from the heat and set it to one side. The rhubarb will poach as the sugar syrup cools. When you are ready to serve, spoon the mousse onto little plates or serve in the dishes you chilled in and finish with a few batons of the poached rhubarb and a drizzle of its syrup. PER SERVING 567 kcals • fat 20G • saturates 12G carbs 89G • sugars 89G • fibre 2G • protein 6G • salt 0.3G

Georgie Mullen is a food writer and content creator. Her debut cookbook, What to Cook & When to Cook It, reflects her love of seasonal produce and cooking. @georgieeats

SHELF LOVE

Use storecupboard ingredients to create these clever recipes – this month, deep and savoury miso Recipes HELENA BUSIAKIEWICZ Photographs JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH

Pork and lemongrass meatballs with a miso glaze These make a nice canapé – simply serve with cocktail sticks. Equally, they make a great dinner with some rice noodles and crunchy veg. SERVES 4 (MAKES 20 MEATBALLS) | PREP 20 MINS COOK 25 MINS | EASY

Divide the mixture into 20 meatballs. Warm the oil in a large lidded frying pan over a medium heat. Brown the meatballs in the pan (you may have to do this in batches), cooking for 2-3 mins on each side, moving often, until golden on all sides and about 70% cooked through. Remove to a plate. Melt the butter in the pan. Stir in the miso to melt, then drizzle in the honey. Allow to bubble for 2 mins to thicken, then add in the vinegar and stir to combine. Turn up the heat and reduce until slightly thicker. Return the meatballs to the pan, coating them well in the glaze. Put on the lid and cook for 2-3 mins, shaking the pan gently to ensure the meatballs don’t stick, until they are fully cooked through and the glaze is glossy. Serve the meatballs with noodles and greens, sprinkling with sesame seeds and coriander, if you like. PER SERVING 335 kcals • fat 22G • saturates 10G carbs 9G • sugars 7G • fibre 1G • protein 25G • salt 1.1G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLIST: JESSICA MCINTOSH

500g pork mince 1 red onion, finely grated 1 stick of lemongrass, very finely chopped 1 tsp ginger paste 1 tsp white miso paste 2 garlic cloves, grated 10g coriander, finely chopped 1 tsp dried chilli flakes 1 tsp vegetable oil cooked rice noodles and greens, to serve sesame seeds, to serve 15g coriander, chopped, to serve GLAZE 40g salted butter 1 tbsp white miso paste 1 tbsp honey 1 tbsp rice wine vinegar

Put the pork, onion, lemongrass, ginger, miso, garlic, coriander and chilli in a large bowl. Season lightly with salt then thoroughly mix with your hands – try not to work it too much as it can make the meatballs tough.

Cheddar, chive and miso loaf This loaf is soft and tender from the milk, with a lovely savouriness from the miso and cheese. It is a very soft dough at first so be patient and oil your hands well. It is also great toasted the next day. SERVES 6-8 | PREP 40 MINS PLUS PROVING | COOK 35 MINS | EASY 150ml whole milk 2 tsp white miso paste 1 tbsp honey 1 egg, beaten, plus another beaten to glaze (optional) 500g strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting 7g pack of fast-action yeast 100g mature cheddar, cubed 25g chives, finely chopped

Put the milk, miso and honey in a small pan. Gently heat until just steaming, whisking to help the miso dissolve, then remove from the heat. Stir in 200ml of water, then whisk in the beaten egg. Put the flour, yeast and 1 tsp of fine sea salt in the bowl of a stand mixer with the dough hook attached. With the motor running on low, gradually pour in the milk mixture, kneading for 8-10 mins until it becomes a soft and springy dough. Flour or oil your hands, then shape the dough into a ball. Put it into a large, oiled bowl and leave in a warm spot for 1 hr or until it has doubled in size. Oil a 900g loaf tin and line with a strip of baking paper. Spread out the dough into a roughly 30cm wide rectangle and scatter over the cheese and chives. Fold one long edge two-thirds over, then fold the other long edge over the top. Roll this up from the short edge to form a loaf. Turn upside down and knit the dough by pulling it together from opposite sides to create tension. Put into the lined tin, seam-side down. Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Leave to prove for 45 mins-1 hr until the dough has filled the tin and, when you gently push it with a floured finger, the indent remains. Brush the top of the loaf with the egg wash, if using, then bake for 30-35 mins until golden and risen. Leave to cool in the tin for 10 mins then remove to a wire rack to cool completely. PER SERVING (8) 317 kcals • fat 6G • saturates 3G carbs 50G • sugars 4G • fibre 2G • protein 13G • salt 1.1G

Shredded oyster mushroom, miso and chilli tacos Oyster mushrooms have a meaty texture and mild flavour, and soak up the bold flavours of the sauce. This also makes an ideal working from home lunch as it is very speedy. SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY 2 tbsp light soy sauce 2 tsp red miso paste 2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 tbsp honey 2 small garlic cloves, grated 1 tsp dried chilli flakes 1 tsp ground coriander 300g oyster mushrooms 8 corn tortillas TO SERVE 1 avocado, sliced 30g pink pickled onions 10g coriander leaves, roughly chopped 1 lime, sliced into wedges

Put the soy, miso, oil, honey, garlic, chilli and ground coriander in a medium bowl. Whisk to combine, ensuring the miso is fully incorporated. Tear the mushrooms into strips into the bowl, then use tongs to coat them in the sauce. Warm a medium frying pan over a medium-high heat. Cook the mushrooms and marinade in the pan for 4-5 mins, stirring often, until sticky and charred. Adjust the heat slightly if the pan is getting too hot. Once golden, transfer to a bowl. Warm the tortillas in a frying pan over a medium heat for 10-15 seconds on each side, then wrap well in foil to keep warm. Load the mushrooms into the tortillas with slices of avocado, pickled onions and coriander. Squeeze over some lime juice to serve. PER SERVING 685 kcals • fat 20G • saturates 2G carbs 105G • sugars 27G • fibre 5G • protein 19G • salt 4.4G

QUALITY WITHOUT COMPROMISE Experience the rich heritage and uncompromising quality of Filippo Berio. With a tradition of excellence woven into everything we do, only oils that meet our rigorous standards are honoured with our signature. You can taste the difference in every drop. Choose Filippo Berio - where quality has no compromise.

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Edd Kimber’s

MODERN BAKING A nostalgic flavour pairing gets an update with this indulgent cake Words and recipe EDD KIMBER Photographs ANT DUNCAN

PHOTOGRAPH: EDD KIMBER

hubarb and custard is about as British as the victoria sandwich or a Sunday roast. It’s one of my favourite ways to showcase forced rhubarb, grown in the Rhubarb Triangle, a small area of Yorkshire close to where I grew up. Forced rhubarb differs from its chunkier cousin in how its grown: the roots are placed inside large sheds which are devoid of daylight and, in the dark, the rhubarb shoots up quickly in search of light. This sped-up growth leads to a more intense pink colour, a bright vibrant flavour and a less stringy texture. To use this classic flavour pairing in a way that heroes the rhubarb I chose not to add lots of other competing flavours and to keep the whole thing light to make a perfectly spring-like cake. Made with a light genoise soaked with a vanilla milk syrup, it is filled with rhubarb jam and vanilla pastry cream, and, instead of a heavy, sweet frosting I opted for a mascarpone whipped cream. I was also inspired by Wayne Thiebaud – whose famous paintings of cakes and pies have inspired many a baker – and decorated the cake with nostalgic simplicity.

Edd Kimber is a baker, food writer and the author of seven cookbooks, including his latest, Small Batch Cookies. Find him on Substack and Instagram @theboywhobakes. 47

and a pinch of fine sea salt in a large bowl and whisk until smooth. Once the milk is bubbling, pour it into the yolk mixture, whisking to combine. Pour the custard back into the pan and cook, whisking constantly, until the pastry cream is bubbling and thick. Continue cooking for another minute to ensure the cornflour is fully cooked. Scrape the pastry cream into a bowl and whisk through the butter until the custard is smooth. Cover and refrigerate until needed – this can be prepared a day in advance. Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and lightly butter an 8cm-deep 20cm round cake tin and line the base and sides with baking paper, making sure it reaches 2-3cm above the top of the pan as the cake can rise significantly. To make the genoise, put the eggs and sugar into a large heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water and whisk gently until the mixture reaches around 40C. If you don’t have an instant-read thermometer, you can use your fingers to test – the mixture should feel warm with no grains of sugar remaining. Remove the bowl from the heat and mix with an electric whisk on high speed for 7-8 mins until the mixture has tripled in volume. Reduce the speed to medium and mix for another 2 mins. Lastly, reduce the speed to low and whisk for a final 2 mins. This method of whisking ensures maximum aeration but also refines the foam to ensure no large bubbles, resulting in the best texture for the cake.

SERVES 8-10 | PREP 45 MINS | COOK 1 HR 10 MINS | MORE EFFORT RHUBARB JAM 250g forced pink rhubarb, cut into 1cm pieces 1 /2 lemon, juiced 200g caster sugar PASTRY CREAM 300ml whole milk 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 100g caster sugar 25g cornflour 3 egg yolks 30g unsalted butter, diced GENOISE 15g unsalted butter, diced, plus extra for the tin 4 eggs 150g caster sugar 25ml whole milk 100g plain flour 25g cornflour MILK SOAKING SYRUP 175ml whole milk 2 tbsp caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla bean paste MASCARPONE WHIPPED CREAM 165g mascarpone 2 tbsp caster sugar 2 tsp vanilla bean paste 400ml whipping cream To make the jam, put the rhubarb and lemon juice into a large pan, and cook over a medium heat until the rhubarb starts to soften. Add the sugar and cook for a couple of minutes or until the sugar is no longer visible and the rhubarb is very juicy. Turn up the heat to high and cook for 10 mins, stirring occasionally, or until the jam reaches the setting point of 104C (see tip, right). Pour the jam into a sterilised jar – it will keep chilled for a month. To make the pastry cream, put the milk, vanilla and half of the sugar in a large pan over a medium-high heat, and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, put the remaining sugar, cornflour, yolks

Melt the butter with the milk in a small pan over a low heat, then set aside. Sift the flour and cornflour over the egg mixture in three additions, folding lightly to avoid knocking out too much air. Add a large spoonful of the batter to the melted butter mixture and mix until emulsified. Scrape this back into the main batter and fold to combine. Pour this batter into the prepared tin and firmly tap on a worksurface to knock out any large air pockets. Bake for 30 mins or until the cake springs back from a light touch. Remove and drop onto the worksurface from a few inches (this prevents the cake from shrinking). Cool for 5 mins before inverting onto a wire rack to cool completely. Mix together the milk soaking syrup ingredients in a jug. To assemble, use a serrated knife to cut the cake into three even layers. Remove the pastry cream from the fridge and beat until smooth. Put one of the cake layers onto a large plate and brush liberally with the milk soaking syrup. Top with half of the pastry cream and spread to the edges. Top with thin layer of jam and repeat with the second layer of cake, reserving a little of the jam for the top. Brush the cut side of the final cake layer with the milk soaking syrup and then put, cut side down, on top. Whisk the mascarpone, sugar and vanilla in a large bowl until smooth. Pour in the whipping cream and whisk until the mixture holds soft peaks. Use most of it to coat the outside of the cake. Add a little of the cream mixture to a piping bag fitted with a large star tip and pipe small rounds around the edge of the cake. Dip a small measuring spoon in hot water and press the mounds of cream to make small wells, then spoon a little jam into each well. The cake will keep chilled for two days. PER SERVING (10) 558 kcals • fat 33G • saturates 19G carbs 57G • sugars 44G • fibre 1G • protein 8G • salt 0.3G

Tip If you don’t have an instant-read thermometer you can test if the jam is ready by spooning a little onto a saucer you have chilled in the freezer for 15 mins. Wait a few seconds, then push the jam with your fingertip. If it wrinkles, the jam is ready.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

Rhubarb and custard cake

Rhubarb and custard is as Briish as the victoria sandwich or the Sunday roast

ignature ishes Our favourite creators share dishes that showcase their unique style of cooking – this month, Maunika Gowardhan brings recipes inspired by her travels in Kerala

Recipes MAUNIKA GOWARDHAN Photographs ANT DUNCAN

Kerala fish moilee

Thakkali pachadi

A classic fish curry with curry leaves, chilli, pepper and turmeric simmered in coconut milk, this southern Indian dish is a staple in every household and simple to cook. This is best made with fish steaks, which are held together with the help of a centre bone and ensure the fish stays intact (ask the fishmonger to do this). If you can’t get steaks, chunky fillets will work.

Delicious tomato chutney with chilli, coconut and curry leaves. Traditionally this pachadi is eaten with soft dosai or as part of a feast.

1 tsp ground turmeric ½ lime, juiced 4 x 150g cod, monkfish or sea bass steaks or fillets 60g white onion, roughly chopped 4cm piece of ginger, roughly chopped 4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tsp brown mustard seeds 5 green cardamom pods 2 green chillies, slit lengthways 5-7 curry leaves 1 /2 tsp sugar 400ml coconut milk 1 heaped tsp tamarind paste 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves, to garnish cooked basmati rice Combine ½ tsp of the turmeric, a pinch of salt and the lime juice, and rub this into the fish steaks.

Heat the oil in a small pan over a medium heat and fry the garlic for 1 min. Add the tomatoes and fry for 2 mins, then add the spices and continue frying for 4 mins as the tomatoes begin to soften. Season to taste and set aside to cool. Heat a small frying pan over a low heat and dry-fry the dried chillies for 5 mins. Add the coconut and fry for 8-10 mins until the coconut is light brown. Tip the mixture and the spiced tomatoes into a blender, and whizz to a paste. Tip into a serving bowl.

Put the onion, ginger, garlic and a splash of water in a blender, and whizz to a smooth, fine paste.

Make the tadka by heating the oil in a small frying pan and frying the mustard seeds, urad dal and dried chilli for a few seconds. Add the curry leaves, then pour the mixture over the pachadi and serve.

Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed non-stick pan over a medium heat, add the mustard seeds and, as they begin to splutter, add the cardamom pods, chillies and curry leaves. Add the onion paste to the pan and fry for a few minutes.

PER SERVING 117 kcals • fat 10G • saturates 4G carbs 4G • sugars 2G • fibre 3G • protein 2G • salt 0G

Add the remaining turmeric, the sugar and a pinch of salt. Mix well, making sure it’s all incorporated, and cook for a minute. Add the coconut milk and bring to a simmer. Cook for 5 mins, then add the fish and cook over a low heat, covered with a lid, for 4-5 mins until the fish is just cooked through but still moist. Give the pan a gentle swirl a couple of times to make sure it’s mixed and the fish pieces don’t break apart. Add the tamarind, 1/2 tsp of freshly ground black pepper and the coriander, stir well and simmer for a minute. Serve with plain basmati rice. PER SERVING 362 kcals • fat 24G • saturates 15G carbs 7G • sugars 5G • fibre 1G • protein 29G • salt 0.4G

2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 350g tomatoes, roughly chopped ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp mild chilli powder 2 mild dried red chillies, halved 60g grated fresh coconut or desiccated coconut TADKA 1 tbsp vegetable oil ½ tsp mustard seeds 1 tsp urad dal 1 dried mild red chilli, halved 8-10 curry leaves

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

SERVES 4 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY

SERVES 6 FOR SHARING | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 25 MINS | EASY

Nadan chicken peralan Last year during my travels in Kerala I ate this Peralan chicken and loved the flavours. Most family homes I’ve eaten this dish at have cooked the chicken separately to the gravy, although I prefer to make it all at the same time rather than in stages. Chicken peralan has heat, so tailor the level of spice based on how much you prefer. Vinegar, pepper and fennel add so much more flavour, as well as a gorgeous aroma while complementing spices such as mustard seeds and curry leaves. Serve with rice, paratha or pathiri. SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS MARINATING | COOK 1 HR | EASY 800g small chicken thighs and drumsticks, skins removed 4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 5cm piece of ginger, roughly chopped 1 heaped tsp ground coriander ½ tsp kashmiri chilli powder 1 tsp ground turmeric 3 tbsp coconut or vegetable oil 1 tsp black mustard seeds 10 curry leaves ½ tsp fenugreek seeds 350g onions, thinly sliced 200g tomatoes, finely chopped 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 tsp caster sugar 1 tsp ground fennel 2 tbsp finely chopped coriander leaves cooked rice, paratha or pathiri, to serve CHICKEN MARINADE 1 tbsp white wine vinegar ½ tsp kashmiri chilli powder TEMPERING INGREDIENTS 1 tbsp coconut or vegetable oil 5 curry leaves 2 green chillies, slit lengthways

Put the chicken in a large bowl with the marinade ingredients and a pinch of salt. Mix well and leave in the fridge for 1 hr or preferably overnight. Put the garlic and ginger in a blender with a splash of water, and whizz to a smooth, fine paste. In a small bowl, combine the ground coriander, chilli powder and turmeric with 2-3 tbsp of water to make a paste. Mix well. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based pan over a medium heat and toast the mustard seeds for 20 seconds. Add the curry leaves and fenugreek seeds, stir then add the onions. Stir well and fry for 20-30 mins or until they begin to turn light golden brown. Add the garlic and ginger paste, and fry for a minute – the paste might stick to the bottom of the pan so make sure to stir. Add the spice paste to the pan and stir for 20 seconds. Add the tomatoes and fry for 6 mins, making sure to scrape the base of the pan as the moisture from the tomatoes is released. Mash the tomatoes slightly using the back of the spoon – they will begin to soften, making a rich, thick masala base. Add the chicken and fry for 8-10 mins. Stir well, coating the chicken in the masala. Add the vinegar and sugar, and season to taste. Stir for 2 mins, then add 250ml of water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered with a lid, for 18 mins, stirring halfway through. Add the ground fennel and 1 /2 tsp of coarsely ground black pepper, and continue to simmer for 5 mins. Remove from the heat and set aside to rest. Heat the oil for tempering in a pan over a medium heat and, once hot, turn off the heat. Add the curry leaves and chillies to the hot oil, stir well then pour over the chicken gravy. Top with the chopped coriander. Serve warm with rice, paratha or pathiri. PER SERVING 408 kcals • fat 24G • saturates 13G carbs 11G • sugars 8G • fibre 4G • protein 35G • salt 0.3G

Maunika Gowardhan is an Indian chef and cookbook author who was born in Mumbai and now lives in the UK. She creates and shares dishes reflective of her heritage and aims to promote cultural understanding through her recipes. She’s the author of four cookbooks, including her latest, Curry. Follow her on Instagram @cookinacurry.

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HOW TO MANAGE IBS

Although there’s no single diet or treatment that works for everyone with IBS, there are various small lifestyle changes you can make to help reduce your symptoms. Here are just a few that could help.

ADAPT YOUR DIET

Try not to eat lots of fatty, spicy or processed foods, as these can be harder to digest. Wheat, onions and beans are also common triggers, and it’s best not to eat more than three portions (80g each) of fresh fruit a day if you suffer from IBS.

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o you suffer from IBS (irritable bowel syndrome)? If so, you've probably found that enjoying an occasion like Easter isn't quite so easy when you’re dealing with gut symptoms, whether that’s diarrhoea, constipation, wind or bloating. While eating a healthy, balanced diet and avoiding your triggers may help avert an IBS ﬂare-up, if you do start experiencing symptoms, a full 14-day course of FyboCalm can provide long-

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REGULATE YOUR MEALTIMES

Make sure you’re not eating too quickly or delaying or skipping meals, as these can worsen your symptoms.

STAY HYDRATED

Aim to drink around 1.5 litres of water or non-caffeinated drinks, such as herbal tea, each day. Plus, it’s better to avoid drinking too many alcoholic or ﬁzzy drinks, or more than three caffeinated drinks daily.

TAKE CARE OF YOURSELF

Stress and anxiety can trigger IBS, too, so try to ﬁnd ways to relax when possible and get plenty of exercise, if you can.

Learn more about living with IBS at fybo.co.uk/ understand-your-gut

hocolate heaven

Dive into one of these sensational chocolate desserts, guaranteed to impress Recipes EDD KIMBER Photographs MATTHEW HAGUE

Chocolate orange meringue tumble Whenever you need a crowd-pleasing dessert that will elicit plenty of oohs and aahs, this is the recipe to go for. Inspired by a dessert made by chef Jeremy Lee at London’s Quo Vadis, this is a giant pile of cocoaswirled meringues sandwiched together with cream and dotted with orange segments. Tableside it’s adorned with lashings of vanilla crème anglaise and chocolate orange sauce, then finished with a generous scattering of chopped hazelnuts. SERVES 10 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS COOLING | COOK 1 HR 15 MINS MORE EFFORT MERINGUES 5 large egg whites ½ tsp cream of tartar 300g caster sugar 2 tsp cocoa powder CRÈME ANGLAISE 150ml whole milk 150ml double cream 5 large egg yolks 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 50g caster sugar CHOCOLATE ORANGE SAUCE 100ml orange juice 1 tbsp honey 75g dark chocolate, melted ASSEMBLY 300ml double cream, whipped to soft peaks 3 oranges, segmented 75g hazelnuts, roasted and roughly chopped

Heat the oven to 120C/100C fan/gas 1/2 and line two large baking trays with baking paper. For the meringues, put the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of a stand mixer (or use an electric whisk and a large bowl). Whisk on medium speed until the egg whites are foamy, then, with the motor running, slowly pour in the sugar. Continue whisking until the meringue holds stiff, glossy peaks. Dust over half of the cocoa and fold very briefly until lightly swirled through the meringue. Spoon 10 large dollops of the meringue over the prepared trays. Dust with the remaining cocoa and use a skewer to lightly swirl it into the meringue. Bake the meringues for 1 hr or until crisp and dry. When fully baked they can be easily lifted from the baking paper. Turn off the oven, leaving the meringues inside to cool down slowly. Once fully cooled, the meringues can be stored in an airtight container for up to four days. For the crème anglaise, pour the milk and cream into a large pan set over a medium heat and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, put the yolks, vanilla and sugar in a heatproof bowl, and whisk until pale. When the milk mixture has reached a simmer, remove from the heat and pour it over the yolk mixture, whisking as you pour to prevent the eggs from scrambling. Pour the custard back into the pan and cook over a low heat, stirring constantly with a spatula, until the custard reaches between 75-85C on a thermometer or has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon. Pour the custard into a large jug, cover and chill until needed. It can be stored in the fridge for up to four days. For the chocolate orange sauce, put the orange juice and honey in a small pan and bring to a simmer. With the melted chocolate in a heatproof jug, pour a third of the orange juice mixture over the chocolate and stir to combine. Add the remaining orange juice mixture in two additions, stirring well until fully combined before adding more. Once all the juice mixture has been incorporated you should have a silky smooth sauce. Cover and set aside at room temperature until ready to use. If you want to make this in advance, you can chill it for up to a week, rewarming slightly until fluid again. To assemble the tumble, put four of the meringues on a large serving platter (preferably one with a rim to encase the sauces), using the whipped cream as an edible glue. Top the first layer of meringues with another three, then two, then one, to create a tower. Randomly arrange the orange segments around the tumble. At the table, pour over the two sauces, scatter over the hazelnuts and serve immediately.

Super-speedy chocolate snack cake This is your ‘in case of emergency’ chocolate cake – the recipe you pull out when you have last-minute guests or simply need a quick, easy dessert. It also happens to be an incredibly good vegan chocolate cake: dense and fudgy, like all good chocolate cakes should be. A simple one-layer affair, it can be dressed up or down, depending on the occasion. I like to keep things straightforward, with a glaze made with a ‘water ganache’. Alternatively, it makes a great dessert, served with a hot fudge sauce and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. SERVES 8 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS COOLING | COOK 40 MINS | EASY CHOCOLATE CAKE butter (or vegan alternative), for the tin 240ml soya milk 175g soft light brown sugar 100ml vegetable oil 1 tsp apple cider vinegar 75g plain flour 75g wholemeal rye flour (or use the same amount of plain flour) 50g cocoa powder 1 tsp instant espresso powder ½ tsp baking powder 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda ½ tsp fine sea salt WATER GANACHE GLAZE 100g dark chocolate 2 packed tbsp soft light brown sugar 1 tbsp refined coconut oil (see tips, below)

Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Lightly butter a deep 20cm round cake tin and line the base with baking paper. To make the cake, put the milk, sugar, oil and vinegar in a large jug, and whisk until smooth. Brown sugar, especially unrefined versions that contain higher levels of molasses, can be lumpy, so sift it before using, if needed. Put the remaining ingredients in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry, and stir with a whisk just until a smooth batter is formed. If using rye flour, it is doubly important not to over-whisk the batter – it can become gummy if mixed for too long. Pour into the prepared tin and bake for 35-40 mins or until the cake springs back to a light touch and is coming away from the sides of the tin. Remove from the oven and cool for 10 mins before turning out onto a wire rack to cool completely. To make the ganache, put the chocolate in a small heatproof jug and melt (see tips, below). Put the sugar and 75ml of water in a small pan set over a medium heat and cook, covered with a lid, until the sugar has dissolved and the water has just come to a simmer. Pour a third of the syrup over the chocolate and stir to combine. Add the remaining syrup in two additions, stirring until the mixture forms a silky smooth ganache. Add the oil and stir to combine. Once made, the ganache should have a thick but pourable consistency. If the ganache is thin, leave for 15 mins until thickened slightly. Pour the ganache over the cake, allowing the excess to drip down the sides. Kept covered, this cake will keep for up to five days.

Tips • Coconut oil comes in two varieties: virgin and processed. If labelled as virgin (or something similar) it will taste of coconut. Processed oil is odourless and has a neutral taste. Either can be used for this cake but I prefer to use an odourless version so the flavour is purely about the chocolate. • To melt chocolate in a bain-marie, put a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water, add the chocolate and heat until melted. Keep both the water level and heat low, and don’t let the water touch the bowl. Alternatively, melt in short bursts in the microwave – never heat for more than 30 seconds at a time. If your microwave allows, select a lower wattage: it’s better to go slower than to risk scorching the chocolate. To ensure an even melt and to prevent the chocolate overheating, stir between each burst, even if it doesn’t seem to have melted at first.

Black bottom coconut cream pie When people say they don’t like coconut, I nod my head and pretend I understand but, honestly, I don’t get it. Coconut is delicious! When paired with chocolate we’re talking a top-tier flavour pairing. On the surface this appears to be just a classic coconut cream pie but it’s hiding a delicious secret – under the layers of whipped cream and toasted coconut custard lies a silky chocolate ganache, making it completely irresistible. The flaky pie dough makes enough for two pies but the rest can be frozen for another time. SERVES 8 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS COOLING AND CHILLING COOK 50 MINS | EASY FLAKY PIE DOUGH 300g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 2 tbsp caster sugar 50g cocoa powder 225g unsalted butter, chilled and diced CHOCOLATE FILLING 100g dark chocolate (60% cocoa solids), finely chopped 180ml double cream 15g unsalted butter, diced and at room temperature COCONUT CUSTARD 80g desiccated coconut 400ml tin of coconut milk 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 3 large egg yolks, plus 1 large egg 125g caster sugar 40g cornflour 2 tbsp dark rum (optional) TOPPING 150ml double cream ¼ tsp vanilla bean paste To make the dough, whisk together the flour, sugar and 1/2 tsp of salt in a large bowl. Sift in the cocoa and whisk to combine. Add the butter and, using your fingertips, rub the butter into large, flat flakes. Make a well in the centre of the mixture and drizzle in 160ml of ice-cold water, a little at a time, tossing, squeezing and pressing with your hands to combine. Keep adding the water, a little at a time, until the dough is still a little shaggy but is mostly coming together (you may need slightly more or less water than specified). Turn out onto a worksurface and use your hands to press together into a rectangle.

Wrap and chill for 1 hr. This rest allows the flour to hydrate and makes rolling out much easier. On a lightly floured worksurface, roll the dough into a roughly 45cm x 25cm rectangle. Cut into four smaller rectangles, stack atop each other, then repeat this process a second time. Wrap the dough and chill for 20 mins. Repeat the rolling out and stacking process one final time. Before chilling, roll the dough out slightly, just to compress the pieces together, then divide in half and wrap each piece. Chill for at least 2 hrs before using but preferably overnight. To finish the pie, roll out one of the portions of pastry on a lightly floured worksurface until 30cm in diameter (freeze the other portion for another time). Carefully drape into a 23cm pie plate. Trim the pastry so that there is about 2.5cm of pastry hanging over the edge of the plate. Tuck and roll this excess pastry under itself to form a rope of dough that sits on the rim of the plate. Crimp this border as desired. Prick the base of the pastry using a fork and chill for 1 hr before baking. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line the pie crust with a large piece of crumpled baking paper and fill with baking beans or uncooked rice. Put the pie on a baking tray and bake for 20 mins. Remove the pie from the oven, carefully lift out the baking beans, then return to the oven and bake for a further 12-15 mins or until the base is dry and crisp. Remove and set aside until fully cooled. For the filling, put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl or jug and melt (see the tips on the previous page). Put the cream in a small pan and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat, pour a third over the chocolate and stir to combine. Add the remaining cream in two additions, stirring well to form a silky smooth ganache. Add the butter and stir until smooth. If you have a hand blender, finish with a brief blend to ensure the ganache is thoroughly emulsified. Pour the ganache into the pie crust and spread into an even layer. Chill for 1 hr until the ganache is set. For the custard, put the coconut in a large pan set over a medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden. Remove a couple tablespoonfuls and set aside for the garnish. Pour in the coconut milk and vanilla bean paste, and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, put the egg yolks, egg, sugar, cornflour and a large pinch of salt in a large heatproof bowl, and whisk until smooth. Pour the hot coconut milk over the egg mixture, whisking as you go to prevent the eggs from scrambling. Pour the custard back into the pan and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture has thickened and is bubbling. Cook for a further minute, then scrape back into the bowl. Pour in the rum, if using, and whisk to combine. Allow the custard to cool for 5 mins before pouring into the pie and spreading into an even layer. Press a piece of baking paper onto the surface of the custard to prevent a skin from forming and chill for 2 hrs. To serve, put the cream and vanilla in a large bowl, and whisk until the cream holds soft peaks. Spread this over the pie and scatter over the reserved coconut. Kept chilled, the pie will keep for up to three days.

Roasted white chocolate basque cheesecake with drunken cherries All cheesecake is good cheesecake. But if you ask me about basque cheesecake – well, that holds an extraspecial place in my heart. Not only is it incredibly easy to make, the intense heat used to cook it results in a deeply caramelised crust while maintaining an incredibly creamy centre. In this version both brown sugar and caramelised white chocolate are used to really amplify the toasty goodness. Whatever you do, don’t skip the boozy cherries – they’re the perfect accompaniment to this dish. SERVES 12 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS COOLING AND CHILLING COOK 45 MINS | EASY CHEESECAKE 200ml double cream 175g caramelised white or blonde chocolate, melted 750g full-fat soft cheese, room temperature 200g soft light brown sugar 4 large eggs 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 2 tbsp plain flour (or use 1 tbsp cornflour if you want to make this gluten-free) DRUNKEN CHERRIES 50g caster sugar 250g cherries, pitted 50ml amaretto liqueur whipped cream, to serve

To make the cheesecake, start by making a ganache. Pour the cream into a pan, bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat and pour a third over the melted chocolate, stirring to combine. Mix in the remaining cream in two additions, stirring well until the ganache is smooth and silky. Set aside to cool. Heat the oven to 240C/220C fan/gas 9. Line a 20cm springform cake tin with a single layer of crumpled baking paper. Don’t worry about making this look perfect – ruffled edges are part of this cheesecake’s charm. Put the cheese in a large bowl and beat until smooth and creamy, either using a wooden spoon or an electric whisk. Add the sugar and 1/2 tsp salt, and mix until evenly combined. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating until fully combined before adding the next. Add the vanilla and cooled ganache, and mix until combined. Add the flour and mix briefly until evenly distributed. Pour the batter into the prepared tin and bake for 35-40 mins or until the top is dark and puffed but not quite burnt. Remove from the oven to cool for 1 hr before transferring to the fridge for at least 4 hrs, or preferably overnight, to chill thoroughly. As the cheesecake cools, it will sink. For the drunken cherries, put 50ml of water and the sugar in a small pan and heat gently until the sugar has dissolved. Add the cherries and simmer for 3-4 mins until they are starting to soften but still holding their shape. Spoon the cherries into a small jar or bowl, leaving the syrup in the pan. Cook the syrup for a further 2-3 mins until thick and syrupy. Remove from the heat, stir through the amaretto, then pour over the cherries. Kept in the fridge, these cherries will keep for two weeks, so long as the fruit stays submerged in the syrup. Cut slices of the cheesecake and serve with a spoonful of the drunken cherries and a dollop of whipped cream. Kept chilled, the cheesecake will keep for up to five days.

Recipes extracted from Chocolate Baking by Edd Kimber (£28, Quadrille). Photographs © Matthew Hague. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

Wine 101 with Kate Hawkings

Sicily

Explore the vibrant wines and native grapes of this Italian island

icily, closer to North Africa than it is to Rome, is Italy’s largest wine region, with a history and culture as rich and diverse as its landscapes and the wines it produces. The Greek god Bacchus is said to have planted vines here and by 1,000BC the Phoenicians were trading Sicilian wines across the Mediterranean. Later conquerors included the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans and Spanish, all of whom left their mark. In more modern history Sicily was best known for cheap bulk plonk, as well as

fortified and sweet wines such as marsala, but it is now making a huge range of modern, terroir-driven wines from native grapes to suit all tastes and pockets. The high-altitude volcanic slopes of Mount Etna produce wonderful ethereal reds and whites, many from very old vines, that have become very trendy and can command high prices, but there are plenty of very well priced wines from other parts of the island. Despite high summer temperatures, proximity to the sea often gives Sicily’s wines a characteristic saline freshness that makes them so attractive.

Something surprising

Flavia Rebellious Wines ‘Allè’ (£33, ocado.com) Made by siblings Flavia and Giacomo Rallo, who are bringing a fresh eye to Sicily’s wine heritage, this is a joyous biodynamic blend of catarratto and zibibbo, some grown on the wild slopes of Etna. Spontaneously fermented and bottled unfiltered with minimal sulphur, it bursts with grapefruit, orange blossom, jasmine and passion fruit, a hint of honey and a slightly salty tang.

Kate Hawkings is a writer and wine consultant. Her latest book, The Little Book of Aperitifs: 50 Classic Cocktails and Delightful Drinks, is out now (£10, Quadrille). Follow her on Instagram @kate_hawkings.

Main grapes Punchy, reliable nero d’avola is the flagship native red, found all over the island, while delicate, perfumed nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio are the red stars on Etna. The top white is citrussy, peachy catarratto, also known as lucido. Grillo, a cross between catarratto and zibibbo (the local name for muscat) is more aromatic but still refreshing, while Etna’s carricante has distinctive notes of mountain herbs and a thrilling streak of minerality.

Focus on frappato I adore frappato, one of the island’s most ancient indigenous grapes, which makes light, juicy reds that I serve slightly chilled. Bright red berries, low tannins and zippy acidity makes it a crowd-pleasing choice that’s very versatile with food. Frappato is delicious as a single varietal wine but it’s also used in under the radar Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only DOCG (Denominazione di origine controllata, Italy’s highest quality accreditation) where it’s beautifully blended with nero d’avola.

Bottles to try

Santa Tresa Cerasuolo di Vittoria (£13.95, thewinesociety.com) Great value for a wonderful, complex Cerasuolo di Vittoria from this very smart organic producer. Some of the nero d’avola grapes are partly dried to add richness to its plummy, slightly spicy structured fruit, while the frappato gives a floral, herbaceous lift.

Where to stay

Ask a somm sommelier melier Your easy guide to getting the most out of your wine glass

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Arianna Occhipinti is one of the island’s most famous winemakers and this fabulous eco hotel, run by her sister Fausta on their estate in the Vittoria region, is very much a family affair. Surrounded by ancient olive groves, citrus orchards, vineyards and organic vegetable and herb gardens, the airy rooms are beautifully furnished with antiques and local ceramics. Activities include cookery classes, cheese making, horse riding, yoga, spa treatments and, of course, wine tastings. baglioocchipinti.it

Donnafugata ‘Ben Ryé’ 2023 (£32, callmewine.co.uk) An extraordinary sweet wine made on the island of Pantelleria from zibibbo grapes which are dried in the sun before pressing, a process called appassimento. Intense and luscious with layers of orange peel, dried apricots, honey and cloves balanced with clean acidity, a little goes a long way, either sipped slowly by itself or alongside blue cheese, fruit puddings or dark chocolate.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, AVCAPTURERX/REALY EASY STAR ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

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Sylvain Bertozzi, Godet Parisian Sylvain moved to London in 2015 where he embarked on a career in craft beer, working at Mother Kelly’s, before opening neighbourhood bar Binch in 2019. He launched Godet in 2024, transforming an old Victorian boozer in Islington into a chic ‘wine pub’ where both craft beer and wine are taken equally seriously. godetlondon.com I normally drink sancerre but want to try something different and I'm on a budget – any ideas? Sancerre is a sauvignon blanc, it can quite be expensive. I’ve got a sauvignon blanc from Burgundy – I’m not saying it’s the cheapest but it’s probably cheaper than a good sancerre. There’s only one place in Burgundy we can have sauvignon blanc, it’s a little village called Saint-Bris. A winemaker called Raphaëlle Guyot, a very small producer, she’s doing an absolutely great job, the sauvignon, La Valse, is absolutely delicious. In spring and summer I normally like to drink pale rosé from Provence. If that’s not on the menu what would you suggest? I would recommend a hybrid red rosé or a chilled red, perfect for the season, quite light, fresh, juicy, easy drinking. There’s one that would work very well, it’s called Le Rouge et Le Blanc, which means the red and the white, blended together, which gives this very full colour, from a winemaker in the south of France, Cyril Fhal, in the Roussillon. What wine goes best with spicy Asian flavours? A riesling could be good, also a gewürztraminer or a chenin, a wine that’s got a little bit of sweetness to it. Not too dry and not too high in alcohol, because otherwise it won’t balance with the spice of the food. What’s your guilty pleasure when it comes to wine? I had my first Buckfast last year, I had never tried it before but it was good.

LONG WEEKEND

Celebrate the Easter weekend with these must-make drinks, from a sharing brunch cocktail to a chocolate and cherry martini Recipes HANNAH GUINNESS Photographs ANT DUNCAN

CHOC CHERRY MARTINI If the idea of left-over Easter egg chocolate is a foreign concept to you, swap in goodquality dark chocolate. A drizzle of syrup from the jar of cherries lends extra fruity depth.

100ml vodka 100g Easter egg dark chocolate or 70% dark chocolate 1 tbsp maraschino liqueur 50ml dark crème de cacao or chocolate liqueur maraschino cherries, to garnish, plus a drizzle of the syrup from the jar (optional) Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water or in short blasts in the microwave. Whisk together the chocolate and vodka in a jug until smooth. Add the liqueurs plus a drizzle of cherry syrup, if you like. Pour into a shaker with ice, shake briefly and divide between two martini glasses. Garnish with maraschino cherries threaded onto a cocktail skewer.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 2 MINS | EASY

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GRAPEFRUIT SHARING

MIMOSA

A twist on the classic mimosa – the orange juice is swapped for grapefruit and a little triple sec to balance the tart citrus.

SERVES 6-8 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY 500ml chilled ruby red grapefruit juice 200ml triple sec 750ml champagne, crémant or cava, chilled rosemary sprigs, to garnish

Pour the grapefruit juice, champagne and triple sec into a large jug, and gently stir to combine. Pour the mimosas into champagne flutes and garnish with rosemary sprigs.

MINT GIN

GIMLET

Refreshing mint is a match made in heaven for the citrus zing of a gimlet. SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS PLUS INFUSING AND COOLING COOK 5 MINS | EASY 50ml gin 25ml mint and lime syrup (see right) 25ml lime juice mint sprig, to garnish

MINT AND LIME SYRUP 2 limes, zested and juiced handful of mint leaves 80g caster sugar To make the mint and lime syrup, put the lime zest and juice and the sugar in a small pan, and heat gently until the sugar has dissolved. Add the mint leaves and cook for 1-2 mins, then turn off the heat and leave to infuse for 30-40 mins. Discard the mint leaves, then cool the syrup and

store in a sterilised jar. This will make more than you need but will keep chilled for a week. For the gimlet, put all of the ingredients into a cocktail shaker with ice and shake well until the outside of the shaker feels very cold. Strain into a chilled coupe or nick & nora glass and garnish with a mint sprig.

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Aureus Vita Fibonacci Dry Gin £141.80/700ml, masterofmalt.com

Hacien Coffee Tequila Blanco £39/700ml, hacien.com A light, coffee-flavoured tequila, with dark chocolate notes that would make it a hit in a tequilabased espresso martini.

Jo Vodka 103 – The Artist £49.99/70cl, jovodka.com

Aperitif hour

British perfumer Ms Jo Malone CBE has created her own range of characterful vodkas. This expression has fresh, delicate floral tones and a hint of peppery warmth. Mix with tonic or soda water.

Beautiful bottles and barware to take your cocktails to the next level Words HANNAH GUINNESS

Margot linen cocktail napkins £22/set of four, anthropologie.com A chic reusable set of napkins for garden aperitifs.

Lofi Productions Red Grapefruit Radler £17.99/4 x 440ml cans, lofiproductions.co.uk A modern shandy, tart grapefruit soda makes a winning match with citrussy wheat beer. At just 2.5% ABV it’s perfect for spring session drinking.

The Pickle House Original Pickle Juice £19/2 x 500ml bottles, thepicklehouse.com Infused for six months with cucumbers and spices, this versatile flavour-packed pickle juice could be a chaser for shots of whisky or used to give a savoury boost to bloody marys and martinis.

Made just once a year using a novel distillation method and featuring freshly harvested juniper and baobab pulp as its key botanicals, this striking gin is fullbodied and velvety, well balanced despite the hefty ABV, and full of peppery, piney juniper notes.

Three Cents Fig Leaf Soda £1.60/200ml, maltbyandgreek.com An elevated soda made using fig leafs sourced from a Greek island, with delicate green botanical, stone fruit and citrus notes, and a hint of cream soda. Drink chilled for an easy non-alcoholic aperitif.

Rayos striped resin bar tray £90, oliverbonas.com Serve Easter cocktails and nibbles on this colourful drinks tray.

Bar Douro tea towel £16, bardouro.giftpro.co.uk A rather stylish tea towel from the Portuguese restaurant group, showcasing scenes inspired by the country’s wine and gastronomic heritage. 75

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STABLE WINES, ISLINGTON, LONDON

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Stable Wines makes a good case for being one of London’s most beautiful wine bars. Arrive in the glass-walled space on Essex Road – which functions as a wine shop, with its striking oak and volcanic stone counter – and head downstairs, where a former bank vault has been turned into a magical, candlelit, labyrinthine cave. Dimly lit, with bare brick and stone walls, it’s full of arches, alcoves and cosy nooks, with sculptural painted paper lanterns dotted throughout. stablewines.com

What to order Wines channel a ‘zero zero’ ethos, meaning natural and low-intervention bottles. Tell the server what you’d like and they’ll bring something out for you. Next-level snacks and small plates include uber-umami Guinness rarebit oysters and an unmissable silky whipped chocolate mousse doused in olive oil.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ETHAN SMART

THE BAXTER INN, SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA You’ll be hard pressed to find The Baxter Inn – but make sure you do as it’s well worth a visit. Located in the basement of an old fabric storehouse in an unmarked alleyway in Sydney’s Central Business District, this atmospheric, speakeasy-style cellar bar has a stellar hundreds-strong whisky collection that will make any malt fan weak at the knees – showcased in a back-lit wall of bottles that the bartenders adeptly scale using library ladders. Diving into this could easily take up your whole evening (it’s particularly good for scotch whisky and rare bottlings) but do seek out the pithy roster of punchy house cocktails too. @thebaxterinnsydney

What to order Try an almond boulevardier with vermouth and rye.

PANDA & SONS, EDINBURGH What looks like a Victorian-style barber shop fronted by a family of pandas on Queen Street is really just a façade for a prohibition-inspired drinking den that has been a much-praised fixture on Edinburgh’s bar scene since 2013. Inside, traditional pub-style interiors are the stage for cutting-edge, refined mixology. Its latest menu, Transcend, is themed around innovative freezing techniques, which results in some seriously next-level cocktails. pandaandsons.com

What to order Try the coconut daiquiri, which sees the water in rum replaced by Thai coconut milk. And don’t miss the Frozen Delights section, which includes a roster of boozy sorbets and ice creams – no surprise, when founder Iain has his own line of alcoholic ice creams called Señor Scoop (@senorscoop).

READER discover cook OFFER like a local

Taste your way around beautiful Puglia Discover the delicious dishes of one of Italy’s renowned culinary regions, with trips to vineyards, olive farms and bakeries

DEPARTURES: 10 AND 20 MAY, 16 AND 20 SEPTEMBER OR 7 AND 11 OCTOBER 2026 Italy is known and loved worldwide for the quality of its food and wine. Puglia, a true gem in south-east Italy, stands out even in a country with such a strong culinary reputation. This exciting six-day tour will take you to some of the best spots to eat, drink and enjoy a range of memorable culinary experiences. You will also visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sassi di Matera, and Alberobello, where you’ll see the iconic trulli – houses made of limestone boulders with pyramid roofs. YOUR ITINERARY:

From

£1,249 per person*

Day 1 Matera Day 2 Sassi di Matera Day 3 Alberobello and Altamura Day 4 Locorotondo and Bari Day 5 Bari Day 6 Departure WHAT’S INCLUDED • • • • • • • • • • • • •

An Italian cookery masterclass and dinner A bakery tour and bread tasting in Altamura Vineyard tour and wine tasting in Locorotondo Olive oil tasting and olive farm visit near Ostuni A bike tour of Bari, with a pasta-making class The services of a bilingual guide throughout your trip Two nights in an atmospheric cave hotel in Matera One night in a traditional trullo hotel in Alberobello Two nights’ accommodation in Bari A bottle of local wine exclusively for olive readers Breakfast each day All transfers within Italy Option to include flights**

To BOOK call 03308 284 897 and quote ‘olive magazine’ or, for more information, visit olive.tripsmiths.com/dolcevita TERMS AND CONDITIONS *From price is per person, based on two sharing, subject to availability. Price and itinerary correct at time of print but may be subject to change. Single supplement £370. Deposit 30%. **Flights available for additional cost. Local charges such as tourist tax may apply. Travel insurance is not included and should be taken out at time of booking. Images used may not reflect your actual tour experience. Tour is operated by and subject to the booking conditions of TS Travel Ltd (ATOL bonded).

S L O W

T R A V E L

Immerse yourself in Nordic nature Heather Steele delves into the pristine, rugged beauty of Norway’s western fjords

PHOTOGRAPHS: MAROY KLOUDA, 62°NORD

uggling a black coffee in one hand and a cinnamon bun in the other, I look out across the ripples our boat is creating as it moves through the reflective waters of Hjørundfjord, and realise why Norwegians head to the fjords for restoration. The quiet in this particular valley is paired with a soaring, rugged beauty. Around its edges it’s not unusual to see people diving into the water or climbing up its peaks. These wellness rituals – which encompass saunas too, of course – are themselves a wonderful match for a local food philosophy that brings people together over flatbreads, rich stews and bowls of cloudberries and lingonberries foraged on mountain hikes.

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For a true taste of Norway – and to get up close with the country’s enviable bounty of seafood – the striking western fjords are the place to explore. Whether you’re arriving via Oslo or from the UK (flights are around five hours via Amsterdam), the views heading into the colourful, art nouveau port town of Ålesund will awe you. It’s from the sky that you’ll get the truest sense of the place, gazing down at countless islands and islets in the Norwegian Sea below. It’s the ideal springboard for a five- to sevenday trip, hopping from place to place, immersing yourself in the sublime landscapes and raw beauty of this extraordinary part of the world.

The next morning is an opportunity for your first cinnamon bun fix. The best I tried were at Butikken, an eye-catching, sage-green coffee shop and deli. Part of the lovely harbourside Brosundet hotel, it’s the place to grab a box of buns to go as an afternoon indulgence, as breakfast at the hotel is enormous and varied. Among prettily presented cereals, meat, fish and bread, you’ll find the Norwegian delicacy of brunost, a brown cheese. Made from caramelised whey, brown cheese is more sweet than savoury, with a pleasant malty, fudgy taste that pairs well with waffles and raspberry jam. Another morning regular you’re likely to spy is kaviar, a salty roe paste that

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PHOTOGRAPHS: ELLIOTH KVAMSDAL 62°NORD, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

For a first meal that sets you up for a fjordic escape, book a table at Sjøbua. Taking over a handful of former fishing warehouses on the edge of the harbour, the restaurant leans into its history, serving some of the finest seafood on the west coast. One of the local catches is clipfish and you’ll find it here in its traditional form: salted and served as a croquette. The kitchen also crisps up its skin as an accompaniment to goat’s cheese and grayling roe. Order the prawns from nearby Midsund too. Naturally sweet and complex thanks to the icecold waters they’re caught in, they’re served simply with duxelles and burnt cream. The kitchen’s hero dish of halibut terrine with green peppers, white wine sauce and potato cakes is a polished take on a homely classic.

For a true taste of Noway – and to get up close wih the contry’s enviable bonty of seafood – the striking western fjords are the place to exploe

Union Øye, a wonderfully atmospheric 19thcentury hotel at the end of one of Hjørundfjord’s passageways. A huge reason to stay here is its wooden sauna, which floats on the fjord

comes in a toothpaste-like tube. I squeezed some on half a hard-boiled egg but even the Norwegians around us admitted it’s an acquired taste. From then on I stuck to the waffles. From Ålesund, the closest fjord is Hjørundfjord, an uncrowded yet dramatic valley in the shadow of the towering Sunnmøre Alps. From a boat, the views impress whatever the weather: in winter the mountainsides transform into ski slopes, while spring and summer draw your eyes to the magnificent waterfalls and across to charming yellow and red wooden houses dotted along the water. The walking and biking routes along this valley are also much loved by locals – just remember to pack a bar of Kvikk Lunsj (which translates as ‘quick lunch’) in your coat pocket. Like a KitKat but better, it’s excellent hiking fuel. Spend time with some Norwegians and you’ll quickly see how much food – and the rituals around serving and entertaining – matters. Sometimes this is by necessity: the harsh winters mean there’s a reverence around hot drinks. These rituals are honoured at Union Øye, a wonderfully atmospheric 19th-century hotel at the end of one of Hjørundfjord’s passageways. As well as its gloriously grandiose interiors (think four-poster beds, roll-top baths and constant candlelight), a huge reason to stay here is its wooden sauna which floats on the fjord. Even in summer, diving into the water can be bracing – which makes the hotel’s signature hot chocolates, made with cognac, hand-whipped cream and squares of Freia Melkesjokolade chocolate, a welcome treat

PHOTOGRAPHS: MARGARET M DE LANGE, MAROY KLOUDA

any day of the year. Come evening, its Palm Room bar serves a wonderfully sharp and bitter negroni, made using the local aquavit – a twist on tradition that’s well worth staying up late for. Another important stop-off around this part of Norway is Skarbø, a cider and cheese farm run by husband and wife team Kristine and Carlos. As the oldest daughter, Kristine inherited her family’s eighth-generation farm beneath Smørhylla mountain and she’s quietly set about turning its produce into an award-winning brand that’s now served in many of the fjords’ best restaurants and hotels. The farm shop is open year-round but in summer the pair hosts tours, cider tastings and tapas evenings at the farm. These are held in an atmospheric centuriesold outbuilding with a grass roof. Before ducking through the door for lunch I spotted an unusual sculpture hanging on the side of the building. It turned out to be a curved rib of pork, air drying and aging ahead of a family celebration in a couple of months’ time. Inside, among antique crockery and farm tools, we ate steaming bowls of Kristine’s homemade cheese and cider soup. It was one of the most comforting things I’ve had in years and I regret not asking her for the recipe. If Sjøbua is the perfect start to a coastal escape, then The Boathouse is a fitting finale. Run by the team behind the fabulously cosy Storfjord hotel, this

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Your foodie adventure doesn’t have to end here. For a final bite you can order a traditional hot dog, complete with crispy onions and mayo, at Ålesund airport – and then buy all the Moomins biscuits, Minde banana chocolates and blocks of brown cheese you can stuff into your hand luggage. If this trip teaches you anything it’s that you should make snacking a sacred ritual back at home.

PHOTOGRAPHS: BRANDON SCOTT HERRELL, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

restaurant occupies a former hanger down by the fjord’s edge (you can work up an appetite by kayaking from the same dock earlier in the day). Open only on Friday evenings, its long-table group dinners are hosted by the hotel’s head chef Florian Harnisch, who cooks everything solo over an open hearth in front of you. And, wow, he can cook. On the night I dined he pulled together caviar and soured cream blinis; cooked oysters in cream and dill oil; langoustines in a deeply rich bisque topped with pickled pine shoots; bright scallops with cucumber and bergamot; and a fillet of reindeer served with jerusalem artichokes. Back up at the hotel’s main restaurant the fish soup and open prawn sandwiches served are just as refined in their simplicity – and its famed Sunday brunch tables are piled high with everything from gravlax to Norwegian-style fish tacos, all made with local catches. Trust me, after a meal here you’ll be grateful for the hotel’s variety of deep sofas and quiet corners.

Arty

escapes Relax in comfort and feel inspired at one of these destination hotels beautifully adorned with exceptional artwork 88

AS BOUTIQUE HOTEL, LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA In a nutshell Nestled into leafy Knafljev passage, this contemporary boutique hotel is built atop family-run dining institution Gostilna AS, right in the centre of the Slovenian capital. What’s the vibe? Designed to reflect the style of buildings in the Alpine north, the striking steel structure is entwined with plants in keeping with the area’s green status. The artistic focus continues inside, with a chic library and lounge area to welcome, walls lined with Slovenian pop art and contemporary light installations complementing vintage furniture, Persian rugs and elegant trinkets. Food and drink The original Gostilna AS is the most traditional of the on-site restaurants, its atmospheric brick-lined room and sweeping walnut tree-shaded terrace both desirable spaces to enjoy elegant seafood-forward menus featuring grilled Adriatic shrimp, tuna tartare, pulled veal cheek and strawberry cake. The extensive wine list is handily categorised by style – rich white, orange, fresh red – then divided into regional varieties including Stajerska, Vipavska Valley and Goriška Brda. JAZ is highly acclaimed chef Ana Roš’s bistro-style spot, where playful creations showcase Slovenia’s rich bounty. The waldorf salad spotlights green apple, folds of pickled celeriac, walnut mousse, kefir milk and lovage oil, while sea bream ceviche is dressed with puffed buckwheat, popping peas and fermented citrus and strawberry water ponzu. Catering to a lively local crowd, Pop’s Aperitivo plays to Slovenia’s neighbouring Italian influence with casual pizza and pasta dishes, cherry negronis and olive oil fat-washed Italicus spritzes. Which room to book? The owner’s art collection adorns the 30 smart rooms, along with walnut wood panelling and bespoke corrugated wardrobes. Almost all have balconies that look onto pretty rooftops, many offering glimpses of the castle perched above. The Castle Exclusive room boasts uninterrupted views of the landmark, not only from the floor-to-ceiling windows but also reflected in the glass encasing an intricate wrought iron bedframe.

WORDS: ALEX CROSSLEY, LUCY ROXBURGH, GILLIAN MCNEILL. PHOTOGRAPHS: MIRAN KAMBIC

What’s for breakfast? Breakfast includes a continental selection of hard tolminc cheese, cured meats, jars of dressed cherry tomatoes, apricot pie and dinky pastries. Made-to-order dishes include pancakes with a jewelled medley of walnuts, dried fruit and pine nuts. The house blend of mountain tea is flecked with dried strawberries, lemon balm and wild oregano. ashotel.si

IZZA, MARRAKECH, MOROCCO In a nutshell Hidden in the heart of Marrakech’s bustling medina, this network of riads has been transformed into a boutique oasis of calm. What’s the vibe? Explore the seven interconnecting riads and tangle of tranquil courtyards to discover fountains and plunge pools on the way to your room. Named the Museum in the Medina, more than 300 pieces of traditional and contemporary artworks are displayed throughout the hotel, from constantly regenerating AI portraits in the reception to even the mini gym lined with surrealist photography. Food and drink Meaning ‘stars’ in Arabic, rooftop restaurant Noujoum unfolds across the top of the riad, with tables tucked into terrace corners among trailing vines. The menu combines small and sharing plates, with Mediterranean influences alongside traditional Moroccan cuisine. Start with crisp crab croquettes and generous slices of garlic toast with whipped olive and preserved lemon butter that you’ll want to recreate when you get home. Classic tagine and couscous are a must order for mains (choose from chicken, monkfish or vegetable), alongside grilled octopus served with saffron aïoli or juicy local lamb chops topped with zingy salsa verde. Don’t miss out on the unique cocktail menu, with a range of homemade infused spirits and syrups in each signature creation. Order a Marrakech Mule made with homemade fig- and orangeinfused vodka, or a spicy El Mellah Sour with harissa and coriander tequila. Which room to book? The 14 rooms are named after 1960s and 70s ‘freedom seekers’, such as Yves Saint Laurent, Jack Kerouac and Marianne Faithfull. Each has unique features, from the copper roll-top bath in Grace (named after Grace Jones) to the spacious pink-hued Yves with a juliette balcony overlooking the pool. Rooms are filled with a mixture of Moroccan design and mid-century furniture, with intricate tiled floors throughout. For the most luxurious stay, book the double-storey Izza suite, complete with kitchenette, private courtyard and plunge pool. What’s for breakfast? Served on the rooftop, breakfast includes freshly squeezed juices, artfully arranged tropical fruit salads, bowls of warm pastries and pancakes served with amlou – a special house blend of almond butter mixed with argan oil and honey. Savoury options showcase Moroccan specialities – order the loubia with merguez sausage and beldi egg, a local bean-filled twist on a shakshuka.

PHOTOGRAPHS: HASSAN HAJJAJ, TREAL CECILE, RUIZ JEAN-MICHEL, LEILA ALAOUI

Anything else? Immerse yourself in a traditional hammam ritual at the spa with a guided combination of massage and body scrubs, or choose a signature massage with a personalised choice of fragrant treatment oils. izza.com

BULL, BURFORD, OXFORDSHIRE In a nutshell A 16th-century coaching inn that combines modern, stylish comforts with historic charm, with an exceptional art collection to boot. What’s the vibe? Part country inn, part private gallery, Bull in Burford is an intimate space where art, history and comfort collide. The extraordinary art collection includes a rollcall of big hitters – Basquiat, Banksy, Dali, Hirst, Bacon, Warhol to name a few – thoughtfully integrated into the décor, creating a striking contrast to the old building’s beams and stone walls. Cosy fireplaces dotted throughout invite you to slow down: sink into a chair with a drink in hand, take in the art, maybe challenge your companion to a game of chess. Food and drink Dinner is served at Horn, where classic dishes are executed with confidence. Starters might include melt-in-the-mouth Sicilian beef carpaccio or warming butternut squash and mascarpone soup. For mains expect fresh, zesty roast cod with gremolata alongside crowdpleasers such as the Bull burger. Make sure to visit elegant bar Vincent’s – low-lit, welcoming and perfect for unwinding after dinner or a long countryside walk. Which room to book? There are 18 rooms in total, including the stylish Venetian room. A super king-size bed, soaring ceilings adorned with dramatic 15th-century portraits of Roman emperors, and a light-filled lounge area with window seating makes it hard to leave. As well as rainfall shower and Wildsmith Skin toiletries, the ensuite bathroom boasts underfloor heating, a thoughtful touch to warm up after brisk walks. What’s for breakfast? Breakfast is taken at street level in Graze. Expect a seasonal menu focused on local, organic, farm-fresh ingredients – from pastries and smoothies to cooked classics like smashed avocado, feta and poached eggs on sourdough. The window seat is a prime spot to watch the historic high street come to life beneath Banksy’s Met Ball (the iconic disco riot police helmet), a perfect snapshot of old meets new.

PHOTOGRAPHS: SEB GARDNER, LEO DAVUT, MARIA GUSHCHINA

Anything else? Art lovers can request a guided tour, though you’ll also find a detailed booklet in your room encouraging you to discover the collection at your own pace. For those keen to get out and about, reception offers a Walkabull map, detailing scenic routes with distances, timings and difficulty levels – ideal for exploring the Cotswolds countryside by foot or bike. bullburford.com

Why I love the

Western Cape 94

Local chef Ryan Cole shares what puts South African cuisine on the map Words RACHEL GUNTER

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Nestled in the slopes of Table Mountain, the Constantia Wine Route is the oldest wine region in South Africa. Through a combination of varied elevation, a cool climate and graniterich soils, this part of the world is famous for its world-class sauvignon blanc and shiraz. Take part in tastings and tours of the vineyards to take advantage of what this fantastic region has to offer.

Vin de Constance

It is said that many famous historical figures enjoyed this sweet dessert wine, made only in the Constantia region. Napoleon is said to have enjoyed this beverage while in exile on Saint Helena, and it appears in Jane Austen’s Sense and Sensibility as a cure for a broken heart. This unique wine is definitely one to enjoy when you visit.

Local catch

As Cape Town is coastal city it is of no surprise that fish features heavily in local restaurant dishes. At Ryan Cole’s restaurants, Salsify and COY, fish is prominent on the menu and is caught by Ryan or his brother Donovan, ensuring freshness and ethical sourcing. Tuna fishing is a significant industry in Hout Bay, with yellowfin, longfin, bigeye and

skipjack varieties in the area. In the calmer bays near Simon’s Town and Kalk Bay you’ll find squid and reef fish.

Braai

Originating from the Afrikaans language, braai translates simply to ‘barbecue’ or ‘grill’ but the braai itself is so much more than that and deeply rooted in South African culture. It’s very much a social event meant to bring together friends and family around the open fire. At the heart of every braai is the meat, best cooked after being marinated for at least an hour in a range of herbs and spices.

Roosterkoek

A braai is not complete without its side dishes. Roosterkoek are small South African rolls cooked on a braai grid over the coals, served hot with plenty of butter. The word roosterkoek literally translates to bread cooked over fire. Made with a few simple ingredients these little pockets of dough are crunchy on the outside and soft in the middle.

Springbok

Springbok, South Africa’s national animal, is a popular game meat that’s lean and tender, comparable to veal or filet mignon. The best way to taste this is seasoned simply

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, JAN RAS PHOTOGRAPHY

Constantia Wine Route

and cooked over a braai. You can also buy it as sausages or in biltong form.

Boerewors

Arguably one of the most popular foods in South Africa, boerewors is a beef sausage with strict guidelines on its making process. It must contain 90% meat to count as boerewors, with the remaining 10% being made up of herbs and spices like cloves, nutmeg and coriander, or sometimes other meat like lamb and pork. Of course, these are a staple for the braai.

Biltong

Originating in South Africa, biltong has in recent years been growing in popularity around the world. Commonly made with beef or game like springbok, this easy way of air drying and curing meat dates back centuries, and to the indigenous South African people. Whether enjoyed as an everyday snack, a day out essential or a lovely addition to a charcuterie, biltong is always readily available, and you can easily make your own.

International influence

With a long history of colonialism, South Africa’s food influence can be traced to many different African and European countries. Cape Dutch and Cape Malay are two of the main styles, focusing heavily on meat dishes, often cooked on the braai. Cape Town is arguably one of the best cities to find South Africa’s full range of dishes and influences, with a combination of traditional high-end dining establishments and a big street food culture.

Street food and markets

Cape Town is excellent at embracing street food culture, as seen through popular food markets like Oranjezicht City Farm Market and Neighbourgoods Market. These markets bring together the best of local farmers, chefs and suppliers for a uniquely casual take on South African cuisine. You’ll find burgers, tapas and the famous Gatsby – a giant sandwich filled with meat or fish, chips and sauces.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: CLAIRE GUNN, PEARTREE PHOTOGRAPHY, JAN RAS PHOTOGRAPHY

Meuse Farm specialises in growing unique vegetables, herbs and dye plants, delivering fresh, high-quality produce weekly. It also offers one-ofa-kind fine dining experiences among the abundant farmland and picturesque mountain views » READ ON 99

WHERE TO STAY Palm House Boutique Hotel and Spa

Nestled in Cape Town’s southern suburbs, this restored century-old building provides guests with luxury and tranquillity, within driving distance of famous tourist spots such as Table Mountain, Constantia Wine Route and Camps Bay. The property offers 10 luxury rooms and five garden suites, all with generous space and uniquely decorated for you to fully unwind. You can head down to the heated pool for a beautiful space to rest and socialise, and have drinks at the bar on the lawn. This peaceful luxury extends to the Açaí Spa and Wellness Oasis, offering bespoke treatments that use premium products made with African minerals, flowers and essential oils. With two restaurants on site, Palm House offers relaxed and fine dining options. Palm Terrace provides all-day alfresco dining with global and local flavours. Start in the morning with a fresh madeto-order omelette and try the hearty Cape Cubano sandwich packed with pork and cheese for lunch. Open for dinner only, the second restaurant, De Tafel, provides an immersive fine-dining experience inspired by Cape heritage. The multi-course menus feature local, seasonal and foraged ingredients, themed as land and air (meat), sea and salt (fish) and field and forest (vegetarian). palmhouse.co.za

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WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Salsify at the Round House

With sweeping views of the Atlantic and Lion’s Head in the background, dinner views don’t get much better than those at Salsify. Driven by nature and the seasons, Salsify serves up modern cooking with a strong environmental focus. All the fish in the restaurant is caught by Ryan and his brother Donovan, fruit and veg are locally sourced, and the menu constantly changes based on the available produce. salsify.co.za

COY

Ryan’s second restaurant, COY, offers a relaxed take on fine dining, with a menu that presents an ocean-inspired, seafood-led exploration of Africa. The COY experience offers a seven-course tasting menu with snacks, a choice of cold and hot starters, mains and desserts. Expect dishes like fresh tuna tartare, chargrilled squid and venison served with sour fig and pickled pear. coyrestaurant.com

Meuse Farm

With partnerships with some of South Africa’s finest restaurants, Meuse Farm specialises in growing unique vegetables, herbs and dye plants, delivering fresh, high-quality produce weekly. It also offers one-of-a-kind fine dining experiences from top chefs among the abundant farmland and picturesque mountain views. meusefarm.com

Ouzeri

This Greek Cypriot restaurant embraces a seasonal menu that showcases old family recipes and regional dishes. Located in a bright white space with pops of sea blue, it feels like you have been transported to Greece when you sit down. The menu has a variety of small plates perfect for sharing, like pork belly kalamaki and crab pasta. ouzeri.co.za

Buitenverwachting Wine Estate

One of the Constantia Valley’s historic estates, Buitenverwachting is renowned for its elegant wines, beautiful lawns and gardens, and wonderful hospitality. Guest can enjoy casual charcuterie with wine pairings and picnics on the lawn, or have a full dining experience at the restaurant, with a focus on local produce, farmers and producers. buitenverwachting.com Head to olivemagazine.com for our full guide to South African cuisine.

Chef Ryan Cole grew up in a Cape Town fishing family and trained as a chef before moving to London where he worked in some of the city’s top kitchens. He then returned home to Cape Town and opened Salsify at the Roundhouse in Camps Bay and later COY at the V&A Waterfront.

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ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: DIA KARANOUH/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

Cook like a local

LEBANON

Explore the flavours of this vibrant Levantine region, from spiced shawarma to fresh meze dishes Words and recipes JAD YOUSSEF Photographs MATT RUSSELL

n Lebanon, food is not simply eaten, it is shared, argued over, lingered on and remembered. From the mountains to the coast, and especially in Beirut, cooking is deeply tied to identity, hospitality and survival. The table is where families gather, where politics are debated, where grief is softened and joy is extended just a little longer. Lebanese food is built on balance and brightness. Olive oil, lemon, garlic, fresh herbs and warm spices form its backbone, giving dishes a freshness that feels both comforting and alive. Plates are colourful and generous – vibrant greens of parsley and mint, ruby reds of pomegranate molasses, creamy whites of labneh and tahini, and the golden warmth of freshly baked bread. Meals often begin with meze – small dishes meant to be shared such as hummus, mtabbal, stuffed vine leaves, tabbouleh and kibbeh, inviting conversation before the main meal arrives.

Beirut, the capital, reflects the country’s complexity. It is fast and chaotic, elegant and worn, all at once. You might find a decades-old bakery pulling manoushe from a wood-fired oven next to a sleek wine bar pouring local vintages. Eating out in Beirut is rarely rushed: meals stretch late into the night, accompanied by arak, laughter and music drifting from nearby tables. Even street food carries meaning – a shawarma wrapped carefully in thin bread, eaten standing on a pavement, is as much a ritual as a feast. Hospitality is instinctive in Lebanon. Guests are fed before questions are asked, and plates are refilled without permission. To cook for someone is an act of care and pride. In a country that has faced constant change, food remains a steady language – one that tells stories of home, resilience and belonging, bite by bite.

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Spiced chicken shawarma with fries, pickles and toum Before the war scattered our family across the world, my older siblings and I had a little ritual. When things in Beirut felt a bit safer, even just for a moment, they’d take me to Hamra for a sandwich at Barbar. That buzzing corner of the city never slept and the shawarma was the kind that stuck with you – the aroma, the heat of the wrap in your hands, the sharpness of the garlicky toum against the spiced chicken, the salty pickles and the crunch of that first bite into hot fries. It was fast food, yes – but for us it was a treat and a moment of rare peace. SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS MARINATING | COOK 35 MINS | EASY SPICED CHICKEN 1 lemon, deseeded and finely diced (peel and pulp) 6 large garlic cloves, finely grated 3 tbsp olive oil 3 tbsp lemon juice 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar

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1 tbsp pomegranate molasses 1 tbsp pepper paste 1½ tsp baharat 1 tsp sumac 1 tsp smoked paprika 600g skinless chicken thigh fillets, thinly sliced TO ASSEMBLE rapeseed oil, for frying 1 large Maris Piper or chipping potato, peeled and cut into thin fries 4 large Lebanese khobez 100g toum (see tip, right) handful of shredded lettuce 80g cucumber pickles, cut into strips In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients for the spiced chicken except the meat, along with 1 tsp of fine sea salt and a grinding of black pepper, then add the chicken, mix well to coat, cover the bowl, and refrigerate for at least 4-6 hrs or overnight. To cook the chicken in a pan, heat a heavy pan with a drizzle of oil over a medium-high heat. Cook the chicken in batches, spreading it out so it browns rather than steams. Sear for 6-8 mins until golden and cooked through. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Spread the chicken on a lined tray and roast for 20-25 mins, turning once, until golden and slightly crisp at the edges.

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: IMAD SH/500PX/GETTY, ISTOCK, ISTOCK EDITORIAL/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

Sandwichét shawarma djej

To make the fries, fry in hot oil until golden and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper and season with fine sea salt. Once the chicken and fries are ready, warm the khobez. Spread each one with toum, add a handful of fries or lettuce, the chicken shawarma and pickles. Roll up tightly from the bottom, folding in the sides as you go to keep the filling secure. Wrap in baking paper and toast lightly in a pan or sandwich press until the bread is golden, lightly crisp and warm. Dip the wrap in more toum for extra flavour.

Tip To make the toum, put 50g of garlic cloves and ½ tsp of fine sea salt into a food processor with 50ml of rapeseed oil. Pulse until a smooth paste is formed, scraping down the sides regularly. Add 7-8 ice cubes and then very slowly drizzle in another 150-200ml oil in a thin, steady stream while blending (allowing the mixture to emulsify fully before adding more oil). Add 2 tbsp of lemon juice and continue slowly adding oil until the sauce is thick, creamy and fluffy. The final texture should be smooth and easily spreadable but firm enough to hold its shape. Taste and adjust with more salt or lemon juice as desired. Store in an airtight container in the fridge. Always serve chilled. 105

Grilled halloumi salad with watermelon, mint and olive oil This salad was our cold lunch during long, lazy summers in Beirut. We’d come home sunburnt from the sea and my mum would slice the watermelon and fry halloum on the tiny gas burner she used to make coffee. The plate was always dripping with juice and olive oil, and we’d eat it with our hands, barefoot on the balcony under the grapevine. SERVES 4-5 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 5 MINS | EASY 250g Lebanese-style halloum 500g ripe seedless watermelon, chilled small handful of fresh mint leaves 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp pomegranate molasses, plus extra to serve (optional) 1 lemon, juiced 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds pinch of aleppo chilli flakes (optional)

Rinse the halloum under cold water to remove excess brine, then thoroughly pat dry with kitchen paper. Slice into 1cm-thick slabs or strips – make sure they’re not too thin as they might melt while grilling. Cut the watermelon into bite-size cubes or wedges. If it’s not seedless, remove the seeds carefully with a small knife or spoon. Keep it chilled until the last minute so it stays firm. Gently wash the mint leaves in cold water with a few drops of vinegar or lemon juice to refresh them and remove any dust. Rinse and pat dry carefully. Tear the leaves by hand. Heat a dry grill pan or non-stick skillet over a medium-high heat. Lightly brush the halloum with oil and the molasses then grill for 1-2 mins per side until golden and soft. Set aside on a plate to cool slightly. Scatter the chilled watermelon over a large serving platter. Top with the grilled halloum and mint leaves, 1 tbsp of lemon juice and a drizzle of oil. Add a spoonful of molasses for a touch of acidity and colour, if you like. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, some freshly ground black pepper and a pinch of chilli flakes, if you like. Serve immediately, while the cheese is still warm and the watermelon cold.

Tips Lebanese halloum is typically less salty than Cypriot halloumi. If using the Cypriot cheese, soak in cold water for 15-20 mins to reduce the saltiness before grilling. Always serve this salad fresh – it doesn’t keep well once mixed. 106

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: KHALID GHAWAS/500PX, A MOKHTARI/DIGITALVISION VECTORS/GETTY

Salatét halloum w battikh

Mana’eesh banadoura

Baked tomato, onion, sumac and olive oil flatbread Mana’eesh banadoura is the unsung hero of the Lebanese breakfast. Humble, bold, packed with sunshine and spice. In our village it was the summer version of mana’eesh, when tomatoes were bursting with juice and every home had bowls ready for breakfast or lunch. It’s a recipe full of improvisation, yet deeply traditional – made by farmers, fishermen, housewives, always with what the land offered. SERVES 4-5 (MAKES 5 MEDIUM FLATBREADS) | PREP 25 MINS PLUS RISING COOK 12 MINS | EASY DOUGH 1 tsp fast-action dried yeast 1 tsp sugar 150ml whole milk, lukewarm 500g strong white bread flour 2 tbsp olive oil BANADOURA TOPPING 500g vine-ripened red tomatoes, peeled and grated or finely chopped 1 medium red onion, very finely chopped 1 tbsp tomato purée (optional) 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp aleppo pepper or dried chilli flakes 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp dried mint 1 tsp sumac 1 tsp pomegranate molasses TO SERVE small handful of fresh mint leaves olives sliced cucumber To prepare the dough, combine the yeast, sugar, milk and 150ml of lukewarm water in a small bowl. Let it sit for 10 mins until it becomes frothy and active. In a large mixing bowl or stand mixer, combine the flour and 1 tsp of fine sea salt. Gradually pour in the yeast mixture and the oil. Knead by hand or with a dough hook for 8-10 mins until soft, smooth and elastic. Cover the bowl with a clean tea towel and leave to rise in a warm place for 1 hr-1 hr 30 mins or until doubled in size. To make the banadoura topping, combine all the ingredients with 11/2 tsp of fine sea salt in a bowl – the mixture should be loose but not watery. The grated tomatoes will soften the onion as they sit. Taste and adjust the salt or heat. Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 and put a heavy tray or pizza stone inside to warm up. Divide the dough into five pieces and roll out into rounds. Evenly spread 2-3 tbsp of the tomato mixture on each round, going close to the edges. Recipes extracted from Lebnani: A Journey Through Family, Food & the Flavours of Lebanon by Jad Youssef, out 23 March (£28, Meze). Photographs: Matt Russell. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

Transfer the mana’eesh to the hot tray using baking paper or a pizza peel. Bake for 10-12 mins until the edges are golden and the topping is bubbling and slightly caramelised at the edges. Serve hot or warm, folded or open. Add a few mint leaves and serve with olives and cucumber slices.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

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Shropshire

SPOTLIGHT ON A lush expanse of fertile farmland, rolling hills and historic market towns, Shropshire is both scenic and gastronomic gem, where good food abounds thanks to the energetic efforts of local farmers, artisan makers and chefs Words TONY NAYLOR

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Ludlow

SHROPSHIRE’S FOODIEST TOWN In the 00s, Ludlow was home, remarkably, to three Michelinstarred restaurants. Those venues are no more but the town’s focus on local, seasonal shopping and eating remains strong. From ace sandwich shop, Vaughans, to fine dining at Mortimers, good food is at the heart of Ludlow life. Explore around Castle Street’s main square (home to the bimonthly Local to Ludlow Producers’ Market) and you will find some incredible indie shops. Highlights include The Mousetrap for artisan cheese; butcher DW Wall & Son;

Idyllic eats

CSONS, LUDLOW Strike it lucky and you may see salmon leaping Dinham Weir from CSONS’ riverside terrace. It is a remarkable sight, one of many in this green nook beneath Ludlow Castle. A café-restaurant and takeaway kiosk, CSONS itself offers vivid entertainment. Mains are colourful, globally inspired mixed plates. Various sides, salads and sauces orbit star ingredients, such as Ludlow lamb barbecoa or a Spanish adobo treatment of Shropshire pork. Two more CSONS are located in Shrewsbury and Hereford. csons.uk

Various sides, salads and sauces obit star ingredients, suc as Ludlow lamb barbecoa o adobo Shropshire pok Fine-dining fave

MORTIMERS, LUDLOW One of the country’s most handsome dining rooms, this wood-panelled hideaway is the kind of restaurant where, once you step over the threshold, real life happily melts away, as pleasure takes precedence. It is a precious quality which chef-owner Wayne Smith ensures with his deftly executed, broadly modern British dishes of, say, salmon with baby beets and horseradish crème fraîche, or beef with confit onion mash, shallots and baby leeks. mortimersludlow.co.uk

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Harp Lane Deli (and its new next door eatery, No 3 Church Street); and seafood bar and fishmonger The Fish House. Just outside town, the polished Ludlow Farmshop similarly reflects the rich food culture of The Marches. That scene is celebrated every September at the Ludlow Food Festival, a regular since 1995. If visiting its beer focused spin-off, May’s Spring Festival, explore Ludlow Brewing Co’s tap bar, and cosy pubs such as The Unicorn, The Church Inn and The Blood Bay. The riverside The Charlton Arms is a good shout for Sunday lunch and dishes such as its sharing duck wellington with port jus. Elsewhere, visit enduringly good Indian eatery Golden Moments, or popular CSONS.

Sunday best

PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMES OSMOND/THE IMAGE BANK/GETTY, ALAN COPSON/JON ARNOLD IMAGES LTD/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

THE PHEASANT, NEENTON This community-owned country pub has quite the foodie rep. Its sharing Sunday roast platters of local meats with all the trimmings are one highlight. Elsewhere, key staples (steak frites, beer-battered haddock) anchor fast-changing, seasonal menus closely inspired by Shropshire’s abundant larder. Inventive takes (lamb and spiced tomato lasagne, for example) nestle among classic dishes. The stewards of this success, chef Mark Harris and manager Sarah Cowley, also run Bouldon’s The Tally Ho Inn. pheasantatneenton.co.uk

Key staples like steak frites ancho fast-changing, seasonal menus inspired by Shropshire’s abundant larder Bangin’ burgers

THE BEEFY BOYS, SHREWSBURY Particular about your patty? Then the name Beefy Boys may well be familiar. In the past decade this outfit has picked up multiple awards for its 21-day-aged Hereford beef burgers. Notably, the Boys’ burgers can be customised by choosing between four different patty options, including Cali-inspired mustard fried and hip Oklahomastyle smashed onion patties. thebeefyboys.com

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Dual deliciousness

THE WALRUS, SHREWSBURY Head upstairs for classy cocktails and snacks (dressed crab and sriracha mayo; bone marrow with homemade bread and pickles) or into the modish restaurant. There chefs Ben Hall and Carla Ernst create impressive modern British plates such as olive oil poached cod, cabbage, lemon gnocchi and brown shrimp with a parsley velouté, or Herefordshire beef with crispy potato, braised cheek and peppercorn cream sauce. the-walrus.co.uk

Before you yomp up Long Mynd’s peaks, stock up at Saxtons Deli wih stellar quiches and fidget pie

Picnic tip!

SAXTONS DELI, CHURCH STRETTON Nicknamed ‘Little Switzerland’, Church Stretton, a small valley town in the Shropshire Hills, is one of the region’s prettiest walking spots. But before you yomp up Long Mynd’s peaks or explore Carding Mill Valley, stock up at Saxtons Deli. Its sausage rolls, stellar quiches and sandwiches will amply reward your exercise. As will its glazed lemon tart or fidget pie, Saxtons’ update of Shropshire’s traditional deep-filled ham, apple and potato pie. saxtonsdeli.com

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Class act

DOCKET, WHITCHURCH Stuart and Fran Collins travelled the world in hospitality before opening smart, comfortable Docket. Stuart, who has worked under such rigorous legends as chefs Gary Rhodes, Gordon Ramsay and, during his time at Gidleigh Park, Michael Caines, draws on all that experience across a tasting menu of accomplished, contemporary dishes. These might range from panissestyle chickpea chips dressed with chicken salt, black garlic and edible flowers (from Docket’s kitchen garden) to a classical-leaning duck with morels and green asparagus. docketrestaurant.com

PHOTOGRAPH: ROB SCAMP

Boss BBQ

EMBERS, IRONBRIDGE Located in the Coalbrookdale woodlands, live-fire cooking expert Adam Purnell’s indoor-outdoor café-restaurant and cook school celebrates barbecue in all its forms, from low ’n’ slow smoking to firebowl feasts. Expect fire-cooked full breakfasts, lunch dishes of, for example, pulled pork hash or smoky mushroom birria tacos, and steak extravaganzas on Friday and Saturday nights. If visiting Telford, swing by spin-off Emburgers, and note 2026’s inaugural Embers Fire Festival (Ironbridge, 2-3 May). emberscafe.co.uk

Located in the Coalbrookdale woodlands, Adam Purnell’s café-restaurant celebrates barbecue in all its forms

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Surprise menu

WILD SHROPSHIRE, WHITCHURCH A Michelin Green Star holder for its sustainability initiatives, this micro-seasonal restaurant wants to make diners think. Guests are only given menus at the end of their meal, so chef James Sherwin’s modern, innovative cooking is judged on flavour alone. Fans adore the impact achieved in dishes such as crumpets, birch syrup and burnt cream, or sweetbread, parsley and koji. These draw heavily on produce from the restaurant’s one-acre farm and its fermentation lab. wildshropshire.net

BOBBY’S TACOS, SHREWSBURY As a destination, Shrewsbury is steeped in history. But the Dough & Oil team are busy bringing its food scene bang up to date, both at D&O – home of A1 sourdough pizza – and at the similarly convivial Bobby’s Tacos. Bobby’s concise menu majors on fresh masa (corn dough) tacos topped with, for example, slow-cooked chilli lamb, pickled cabbage, jalapeños and pineapple and lime salsa. At weekends it also serves brunch burritos. bobbystacos.com

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Guests are only given menus at the end of their meal, so chef James Sherwin’s cooking is judged on flavour alone

PHOTOGRAPHS: VICTORIA LA BOUCHARDIERE, JAMIE RICKETTS, NATALIE MOORE, PIPIT CREATIVE, ANDY HUGHES, HELEN CATHCART

Top tier taco

Inn vogue

THE BEAR INN, HODNET Relaunched in 2021 after a thorough makeover, this 16thcentury coaching inn is now a spruce country pub of real charisma. Its 12 bedrooms were individually styled by interiors ace, Octavia Dickinson, while chef Joe Andrews’ food is creating a similar wow factor. Expect dishes such as pork wellington with sage, apple, carrot and a cider jus, or ox cheek, mash, quince, roscoff onions and a corn crumb. The kitchen draws on vegetables grown in nearby Hodnet Hall’s 200-year-old walled garden. thebearinnhodnet.com

The kitchen uses vegetables grown in nearby Hodnet Hall’s 200-year-old walled garden

One-man show

FRAICHE, NEAR OSWESTRY Chef Marc Wilkinson likes to showcase his ambitious food in intimate, distinctive settings. The original Fraiche on Merseyside was a magical, Michelin-starred cocoon. Its Shropshire successor seats eight in a chic space that has been created at Marc’s home. He is chef, server and host at each memorable service. Expect tasting menu teasers such as turbot, smoked eel and grilled leek to manifest as visually stunning, highly imaginative dishes. BYO wine. restaurantfraiche.com

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QUIETCATION

Swap overcrowded destinations and packed itineraries for a more intentional trip centred around local food and drink

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Nestled in the pristine Finnish Lakeland, Lake Saimaa is emerging as a destination for food lovers seeking slow, nature-led travel. As a European Region of Gastronomy, it appeals for both its restorative calm and restaurants offering seasonal, locally sourced menus. Start with a gentle walk over the Pususilta (kissing bridge) to the Finnish Forest Museum Lusto, and lunch at its new restaurant along the ridge of Punkaharju. Try muikku (vendace) – freshwater fish that are pan-fried and served with mash and lemon. For an immersive experience, take a vendace trawling cruise, during which fishermen will entertain you with stories of Saimaa’s fishing culture. You might even be lucky enough to spot a ringed seal – they love to feast on the fish. A sauna visit shouldn’t be missed either: try five different experiences while tasting your way through specialities like karjalanpiirakka (rye crust pastry filled with rice pudding and served with egg butter), leipäjuusto (Finnish squeaky cheese), pulla (sweet cardamom-flavoured bread) and korvapuustit (cinnamon rolls). Coffee lovers should stop at Lehmus Roastery for kettu: ‘fox’ or bulletproof coffee. Stay at the Kuru Private Resort, home to Finland’s ninth best restaurant, Solitary. kururesort.com

WORDS: URVASHI ROE. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, HARRI TARVAINEN/VISIT LAKELAND FINLAND

LAKE SAIMAA, FINLAND

PHOTOGRAPHS: WESTEND61/GETTY, PETER SCHICKERT/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

ASSIGNAN, FRANCE Tucked away in the hills of Hérault in the south of France, Assignan is a peaceful haven for food lovers, surrounded by vineyards. Cycle along quiet country roads with a cheese picnic from one of the local markets. Its proximity to Étang de Thau offers a taste of the sea. Take a trip along the estuary to see the oyster farms while indulging in giant oysters and mussels at Le Saint Barth Tarbouriech on the water’s edge. Equally stunning are the glistening pink waters of Gruissan – the walkway is dotted with seafood shacks serving the smaller oyster variety farmed off the beaches of Narbonne. Explore the birthplace of French vermouth at nearby Marseillan, or amble through Béziers, Carcassonne or Sète, which all showcase the area’s cuisine – try hearty cassoulet, duck confit or aligot – an indulgent dish of mashed potatoes, cream and cheese. Spend your evenings wandering between wine bars enjoying the regional offerings. The area is applauded for the diversity of its appellations, including AOP Saint-Chinian and AOP Minervois, with plenty of wine tours available. Stay at Château & Village Castigno for exquisite fine dining, hidden swimming pools overlooking the vines and breakfast in the village square. villagecastigno.com

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MATSUYAMA, JAPAN

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK EDITORIAL/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, MERRILL IMAGES/THE IMAGE BANK UNRELEASED/GETTY, TOURISM MATSUYAMA

The serene Dōgo Onsen, one of Japan’s oldest bathhouses, sets the tone for a restorative, slowpaced stay in Matsuyama. Take in panoramic views from Matsuyama Castle, hike to nearby waterfalls or find quiet moments of reflection in the beautifully tended temple gardens. Fresh seafood from the Seto Inland Sea defines the local table – try taimeshi (sea bream steamed rice), mitsuhamayaki (savoury pancakes made with dried seafood, cabbage and fishcake) or matsuyamazushi (rice flavoured with fish stock and vinegar, topped with fish, shrimp and eel). The region grows over 30 varieties of mikan citrus, so expect to enjoy it fresh or in gelato, jelly, juice and even beer. Noodles are also big here: goshiki somen (‘five-coloured noodles’) is a local speciality, featuring five bundles of thin wheat noodles dyed with mandarin orange, barley, matcha and ume apricot. Or, opt for nabeyaki udon – thick, steaming noodles served in a hot pot. You can even travel up to one of the remote villages to make soba. Stay at the blissfully peaceful Yamatoya Besso for traditional breakfasts and kaiseki ryori served in your tatami-floored room. yamatoyabesso.com

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PHOTOGRAPHS: VISIT GUATEMALA, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, PIERO M BIANCHI/MOMENT/GETTY

FLORES, GUATEMALA Perched on a remote island in Lake Petén Itzá, Flores is a charming town of cobbled streets and colourful, colonial-style houses. Once the final stronghold of the ancient Itza Mayans, it now serves as a peaceful base for exploring northern Guatemala’s lush jungles and archaeological treasures. The town’s food scene reflects its Mayan heritage. Start at Mercado de Flores and Mercado Nuevo for a cultural immersion, exploring local snacks and street food like chuchitos (tamales filled with meat or vegetables), rellenitos de plátano (sweet plantain dumplings filled with black beans and cinnamon), chilorio (spiced pork), kak’ik (Mayan turkey soup) or pepián (spiced meat stew), all washed down with fresh tropical fruit juices. Get out on the lake for a boat ride at sunrise or sunset, or take a boat to Mirador del Rey Canek to hike, which offers views over the island. Flores is also close to Tikal National Park, Yaxhá and Uaxactún. Stay at the Isla de Flores Hotel, where you can take in the sunset on its rooftop bar. hotelisladeflores.com

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Enjoy this exciting exploration of Andalusia – birthplace of Picasso and the lively home of the flamenco. Based in the traditional Andalusian town of Antequera, you’ll enjoy full-day visits to Granada and the stunning Alhambra gardens, to glorious, historic Seville, the city of flamenco and setting for Bizet’s Carmen, and to the enchanting, whitewashed, hilltop town of Ronda.

Spend three nights on the sweeping, sun-kissed reaches of the Makarska Riviera, and four more close to walled Dubrovnik, relaxing in comfortable hotels or exploring your surroundings on our included tours. Visit vibrant Split and the walled island city of Trogir, take a trip to Croatia’s beautiful Krka National Park, see Mostar’s famous bridge and explore Montenegro – one of Europe’s most beautiful and unspoilt countries.

HIGHLIGHTS AND INCLUSIONS • Seven nights’ carefully chosen bed and breakfast three-star accommodation at the Hotel Coso Viejo, Antequera (upgrade hotel available for a supplement) • Return flights to Malaga • Full-day visit to Seville to enjoy a city tour lead by an expert local guide • Full-day visit to Cordoba in the company of an expert local guide who will bring the city to life • A visit to Granada to enjoy a small amount of free time • A visit to the Alhambra Palace in Granada for a guided tour • Fully escorted by a friendly, experienced tour manager • Coach travel and transfers throughout

HIGHLIGHTS AND INCLUSIONS • Seven nights’ half-board accommodation at a four-star hotel in Drvenik (three nights) and a three-star hotel on the Dubrovnik Riviera (four nights) • Krka National Park excursion • Split and Trogir excursion • Tour of Montenegro and the Bay of Kotor • Visit to Mostar and a guided tour of Dubrovnik • Return flights to Dubrovnik • Comfortable, air-conditioned coach travel and transfers throughout • Fully escorted by a friendly, experienced tour manager

To request a brochure or to book, call 0303 330 0903 and quote ‘OLV’ or visit newmarketholidays.co.uk/olv TERMS AND CONDITIONS *Prices correct at time of going to press. Single supplements apply. Subject to availability and may be withdrawn at any time. Newmarket Holidays reserves the right to cancel, change or amend any tour. These holidays are organised and operated by Newmarket Holidays Ltd. ABTOT 5509. ATOL protected 2325. ABTA V7812. Standard phone charges apply.

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{MY LONDON}

Bettina Campolucci Bordi’s

WEST HAMPSTEAD favourites

PHOTOGRAPHS: JULES ROGERS, BAA TRAVEL, FOTOMATON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

est Hampstead is one of those neighbourhoods that just works – it’s got great food, brilliant independent shops, proper community vibes and you’re close enough to Hampstead Heath to escape London without actually leaving it. People chat, shopkeepers remember you and everything you need is within walking distance, which, for me, is the dream. Food is always how I connect to a place, and West Hampstead delivers. We’re lucky to be surrounded by small, independently run spots where the owners genuinely care about what they’re doing and, over time, many of them have become part of our everyday routine. What I love most about West Hampstead is how well connected it is with the tube, London Overground and Thameslink trains but also how it feels – it’s the people, independents, easy access to green space. It feels like this is a neighbourhood built around community which, when you live in a big city like London, can be hard to come by.

TANNIN & OAK A true local gem. This is our go-to wine bar and the kind of place that you end up staying longer at than planned. The owners and sommeliers really know their stuff but there’s zero intimidation – just great wine and conversation, and a very friendly crowd. It’s perfect after a long day and also brilliant if you’re on your own because everyone is so welcoming. It also does a generous champagne pour when you feel like celebrating! tanninandoak.com FRENCH SOCIETY A relatively new opening that we were very excited about, and it hasn’t disappointed. French-inspired dishes that are comforting, generous and delicious without being fussy. It’s already become one of those places we suggest when we don’t want to overthink dinner but still want to eat really well – and it’s close to home. frenchsociety.co.uk WEST HAMPSTEAD FARMERS’ MARKET Saturday mornings usually involve a wander around the farmers’ market. It’s where we pick up seasonal produce and stop by The Source Bulk Foods for all our dry goods as well as refills of dishwashing liquid, multi-cleaner, loose coffee and, inevitably, chocolate-covered almonds. It makes food shopping feel intentional rather than rushed. It takes me a good couple of hours, as I always stop for chats and catch-ups with the different stall holders, which I love. lfm.org.uk/markets/westhampstead GROCERY POST I call this our posh corner shop and it’s dangerously close to our house. Part deli, part coffee shop, it stocks St John baked goods and Happy Endings ice cream sandwiches (The Gay One is my favourite). It’s the kind of place you pop into quickly and end up leaving with far more than planned. grocerypost.com

HAMPSTEAD FOOD & DRINKS This Bulgarian shop is special to me. I buy my feta, brilliant yogurts and all sorts of treats here that instantly transport me back to childhood summers spent in Bulgaria. My mum is half Bulgarian and stepping inside always brings back those memories. Food has a funny way of doing that. hampsteadfood.co.uk BOBBY FITZPATRICK Pure 1970s fun – great playlist, retro interiors and cocktails that don’t take themselves too seriously. A perfect spot when you want a great atmosphere and buzzing cocktails. bobbyf.co.uk INTERMISSION COFFEE Some of the best coffee in the area and it gives back to the community too, which makes it even better. A proper local favourite and a great place to start the day, usually before having a wander around the Saturday market. intermission.coffee AL AREZ A new Lebanese spot that’s become a family favourite – generous portions, brilliant pickles and loads of small plates that make it perfect for a proper pick-andmix meal. We order a bit of everything and pile it into the middle. It also does seriously good-quality kebabs and other more substantial main dishes. alarez.co.uk KIYOTO SUSHI BAR Really good sushi that’s quick, super tasty and hits the spot. It’s the takeaway we’ll order if I’ve had a particularly busy week and the last thing I feel like doing is cooking. kiyotosushi.co.uk/ location/west-hampstead

Chef, author and wellness educator Bettina Campolucci Bordi aims to show how plant-based food can be exciting and deeply satisfying, while nourishing the body. She instructs budding chefs at Bettina’s Kitchen Academy and hosts wellness retreats focused on reconnecting with nature and the healing power of food. @bettinas_kitchen 121

WEEKENDER

PRAGUE PR RAGUE

Where to eat and drink in the Czech capital: an insider shares her favourite spots

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ooking for the best places to eat and drink in Prague, or want to discover the city’s neighbourhood food scene beyond the old town? Insider Alexane Said says: “I lived in Prague for eight years and even now I go back every chance I get. Food has always been my way into the city and today, as a food and travel content creator, discovering the best places is my job. From bakeries I still crave to neighbourhood restaurants I return to every trip, playing city guide in Prague is something I’ll never tire of, so I’m thrilled to share my go-to spots here, far from the tourist crowds.”

Clockwise from above: Prague’s famed Charles Bridge; a selection of Alcron’s old-meetsnew plates; a must-try ube latte from Cafefin; Kolacherie’s famous kolač; cocktail spot Café Bar Pilotů

isn’t actually Czech, so skip it here and stick to the real deal. kolacherie.cz

OLD TOWN’S BEST-KEPT SECRET

If you want a local’s taste of Prague, go to Masna Kozí. This butcher-turned-canteen serves hearty, ever-changing daily specials, and I’m obsessed with the soups, especially the kulajda: creamy dill and mushroom. Grab a beer, find a spot at the counter and let the flavours transport you – it’s rustic, comforting and exactly the kind of gem I love revisiting. masnakozi.cz exactly what you want on a grey Prague afternoon. Arrive early to snag a table, order the daily lunch special and linger over a draught beer. It’s my favourite spot for a relaxed, authentic Prague lunch. utunelu.cz

HAVE THE BEST DATE NIGHT AT ALCRON

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, ALEXANE SAID

GRAB BREAKFAST AT ESKA

Part bakery, part restaurant, Eska has two locations but my heart belongs to the Karlín one, set in an industrial loft space. I order the house-baked sourdough or Czech breakfast (butter, jam, soft-boiled egg, farmer’s cheese, Prague ham, curd cheese and a fermented soft drink) but the semolina porridge, or krupicová kaše, is also a must. eska.ambi.cz

GET A LOCAL LUNCH AT U TUNELU

U Tunelu is a hidden gem in Karlín – a pub that feels like stepping into a local’s living room. The food is hearty, comforting and

Alcron is one of Prague’s most refined dinner destinations – a city legend since 1932, now reimagined with modern flair. The tasting menu is full of clever, vegforward dishes that reinvent Central European classics. I can’t get enough of the bryndza parfait (soft, tangy sheep’s cheese from Slovakia) combined with white chocolate, hazelnuts and apricot purée. Sounds weird but, trust me, it’s incredible. Don’t forget to book ahead – it fills up fast. alcronprague.cz/restaurace

THE MOST INVENTIVE COCKTAILS ARE AT CAFÉ BAR PILOTŮ

Tucked away in Vršovice, Café Bar Pilotů serves some of the most inventive cocktails I’ve ever had. Its signature drinks are totally worth the detour. I love grabbing a seat at the bar, to chat with the bartenders and let them surprise me with something off-menu. It’s the kind of neighbourhood spot you’ll keep coming back to. cafebarpilotu.cz

HEAD TO KOLACHERIE FOR AMAZING PASTRIES

Kolacherie is the place to go for the musttry Czech sweet: the koláč. A koláč is a round, yeasted pastry with soft dough and a sweet filling (traditionally fruit, cheese or poppy seed) that’s been a Czech staple for generations. And, yes, a quick note: trdelník

THE COOLEST COFFEE SHOP IN PRAGUE

Cafefin is the place for coffee, pastries and people-watching. The espresso is spot-on, its brunch has fun international touches (Vietnamese-inspired dishes alongside classic pastries) and I can’t resist the ube latte. If you’re a true coffee nerd, it has some of the best in Prague. instagram.com/ cafefin.coffee

THE MOST UNUSUAL FINE-DINING EXPERIENCE

Ready for Prague’s wildest dining experience? Housed in a stalactite-covered cave beneath Wenceslas Square and full of carved figures and mythic vibes, Triton reinvents classics – the Czech modern art tasting menu, paired with excellent wines, makes the meal feel like an unforgettable culinary adventure. prague-restaurant.eu

A HIDDEN SLICE OF VIETNAM IN PRAGUE

If you think Prague is all svíčková and řízek, think again. Rice Field serves Vietnamese mâm cơm: family-style dishes for sharing. The cuisine has become part of Prague’s foodie scene thanks to its long-established Vietnamese community. Go with friends to try a bit of everything. ricefieldprague.cz

TRADITIONAL CZECH CUISINE AT U ŠUMAVY

U Šumavy is where I go for proper Czech food. The wood-lined, old-school pub feels like stepping back in time, and the portions are ridiculously generous. I go for plněné bramborové knedlíky uzeným masem (filled potato dumplings with smoked pork and white cabbage) washed down with cold Czech beer. usumavy.cz

Alexane Said is a professional travel content creator and writer. Born in Nice, she lived and worked in Prague for eight years, exploring the city’s hidden gems, and now lives back on the French Riviera. Find her at @thetravellingfrenchy

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EASY SEASONAL NOURISHMENT SH Vibrant, nutrient-rich recipes that go big on flavour Recipes JESSICA MARIGLIANO-BARRY Photographs JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH

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Green spring clean soup, p126

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Green spring clean soup

Rhubarb and kefir smoothie

This recipe is perfect for using up slightly wilted bags of leaves and salad that may be lurking in the fridge.

Any left-over rhubarb mixture can be used as a topping for porridge or served alongside oats and yogurt – it’s easily doubled if you want to make a big batch.

SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY 1 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, diced 400g baby potatoes, cut into 2-3cm chunks 750ml vegetable stock 100g baby spinach 40g rocket 40g watercress 2 tbsp creamed horseradish 30g toasted mixed seeds, to serve Put the oil, onion and a pinch of salt in a large pan over a medium heat and soften for 5-6 mins until translucent. Add the potatoes and cook for 4-5 mins, stirring often, until starting to take on some colour – you can add a splash of water if it starts to stick a little. Pour in the stock, bring to a boil then simmer for 10 mins until the potatoes are tender.

SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 5 MINS | EASY 200g rhubarb, chopped 2 tsp maple syrup 2 bananas, chopped 250ml kefir 200g greek vanilla yogurt Put the rhubarb in a pan with 2 tbsp of water and the maple syrup. Cover with a lid and cook over a high heat for 5-6 mins until the rhubarb has collapsed. Spread on a plate to cool – you can also make this a day ahead. Put the bananas, kefir, yogurt and cooled rhubarb in a blender – if the rhubarb is still a little warm add a couple of ice cubes. Blitz until smooth, taste and add more maple syrup, if you like. Divide between glasses and serve. PER SERVING 282 kcals • fat 11G • saturates 7G carbs 37G • sugars 32G • fibre 3G • protein 9G • salt 0.2G

Add the spinach, rocket and watercress, cooking for a couple of minutes until just wilted. Remove from the heat and blitz with a stick blender until smooth. Stir in the horseradish then taste and season if needed. Divide the soup between bowls and top with the seeds.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLIST: JESSICA MCINTOSH

PER SERVING 293 kcals • fat 8G • saturates 1G carbs 42G • sugars 11G • fibre 9G • protein 8G • salt 1.4G

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Crispy rice and tofu salad If you’re not following a plant-based diet this tastes really good with a drizzle of Japanese Kewpie mayo over the top. SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 35 MINS | EASY 300g extra-firm tofu 250g ready-cooked brown basmati rice 1 tbsp sunflower oil 1 /2 tbsp soy sauce 2 tsp shichimi togarashi 1 tbsp sesame oil 200g long-stemmed broccoli, cut into small pieces 1 large or 2 medium carrots, thinly sliced 200g radishes, quartered 200g edamame, defrosted if frozen DRESSING 1 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp yuzu ponzu sauce 1 /2 tbsp mirin 1 /4 tsp shichimi togarashi Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Grate the tofu onto a clean tea towel using the large holes of a box grater. Press to remove as much of the moisture as possible. Put the tofu in a large bowl with the rice, sunflower oil, soy, shichimi togarashi and half the sesame oil. Mix until everything is evenly coated. Tip onto a large lined baking tray and bake for 30 mins, stirring occasionally. Toss the remaining sesame oil with the broccoli, carrots and radishes. Spread on another lined baking tray. When the tofu has 10 mins remaining, add the vegetables to the oven and cook until lightly charred and tender. Remove the rice and tofu, and allow to cool slightly. Add the edamame to the vegetables and cook for 5 mins. Combine the dressing ingredients in a small jar or bowl. Toss together all the salad elements with the dressing, then divide between bowls to serve. PER SERVING 741 kcals • fat 31G • saturates 5G carbs 61G • sugars 19G • fibre 17G • protein 46G • salt 2.6G

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Weight-loss drugs are changing the conversation around slimming – nutritional therapist Nicola Shubrook explores what this means for our body confidence Words NICOLA SHUBROOK 130

PHOTOGRAPH: ASCENTXMEDIA/E+/GETTY

Reclaim your body balance

ody confidence is at a crossroads. The everyday conversation around weight and appearance has shifted from supermodels and diet clubs, and is now dominated by weight-loss drugs, biohacking and viral body trends. But, beneath it all, the shadow of fat shaming remains. It is just evolving. The last time I remember weight loss dominating public conversation quite as much as it is today was back in the late 2000s, when size 0 was all the rage and Kate Moss’s famous quote, “Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels”, echoed everywhere.

How big an issue is being big?

Obesity increases the risk of health problems like type 2 diabetes, cardiovascular disease and mental health problems. Today, over twothirds of men and almost 60% of women in England are overweight or living with obesity, with around one in four adults classed as obese. These numbers are putting enormous pressure on our health system. The biggest rises are in low-income communities, where there is typically more reliance on cheaper processed foods. But the cultural baggage that comes with weight gain doesn’t care about gender, class or your postcode. Those living in a larger body can experience problems finding or staying in a job, typically have lower earnings and face barriers to career progression – all of which worsen inequalities. So the pressure for those in a larger body is more than a body confidence issue.

How are things changing?

This attitude wasn’t new to me: as a teenager in the 90s I pinned magazine cut-outs of supermodels to my wall and felt triumphant when my waist reached 24 inches. Looking back, it’s clear these influences shaped my teenage relationship with my body, for I even had a brief stint on Weight Watchers when I was 16. Today’s teens may not be measuring their waists against glossy magazine pages but the pressure to conform remains the same – if anything, with weight-loss drugs becoming commonplace, there’s now even less excuse not to conform.

How GLP-1s have changed the conversation

As a registered nutritional therapist and experienced eating disorder nutritionist, working with the complexities of food behaviours and our relationship with food daily, the desire to lose weight is as strong as it’s ever been. It’s just the ‘how’ that has evolved as GLP-1s become mainstream and generally accepted. My worry though is that we are not going backwards in body confidence but that we are creating a bigger divide between a new medically approved ideal and those who are struggling, or may not have access to medication or support to help them with their weight loss. In recent weeks I’ve started to read first-person articles about the anxiety of weight-gain if private prescriptions of GLP-1s becomes unaffordable. In August, the wholesale price of Mounjaro increased by as much as 170% for the highest dose, to bring the UK “in line with Europe and other developed countries”, meaning that currently one month’s supply will range from £180-300 depending on the dose. I do think GLP-1s have their place but we must stop thinking that there is always a one-size fits all solution to the problem of being overweight. For some people these drugs can be life-changing (alongside important factors such as maintaining muscle mass, eating nutrient-dense foods and focusing on protein) but I also think it is too early to know the full effects, good or bad, of these drugs and their wider potential. Yet none of the weight-loss methods I have mentioned are sustainable on their own. And herein lies the challenge with body confidence.

I do think GLP1s have their place but we must stop thinking that there is always a one-size fits all soution to the problem

Women’s bodies remain the focus of continual attention and scrutiny in the media, often making the headlines of many a woman’s weekly magazine or a certain online newspaper. Weight stigma is growing with men too though. Recent research has shown that weight stigma is affecting boys and men almost as powerfully as women, with social pressure not just to be thin but to be muscular and ‘shredded’ – a drive that is strongly linked to orthorexia. Social media disseminates this messaging without compunction and yet we have seen hospital admissions for eating disorders in boys dramatically increase by 84% in just the past five years. Now we live in a new era of GLP-1s – the ‘magical’ weight-loss jabs that are being used by celebrities and school-run mums alike. The NHS has approved and recommends GLP-1s for use in managing type 2 diabetes and, under strict criteria, for weight management alongside diet and exercise. However, many fall outside these criteria and are choosing to go privately to achieve their weight loss goal.

If weight-loss drugs have made slimming easy, where does that leave body confidence?

Weight loss and body confidence are not only intertwined but they are way more nuanced than just using a medication to achieve the desired effects. Our relationship with food starts the moment we are born. We all grow up with beliefs about food that are typically passed down

» READ ON 131

from our parents or carers, or picked up on by advertising, social media and our new world of influencers. We are rarely taught hunger and fullness cues as children but we are fed lines such as such as “You can’t get down from the table until you’ve cleared your plate” or “Sweets are only allowed at the weekend”, creating rules that stick with us into adulthood. Then there is advertising and social media – it is all about being good or bad, healthy or unhealthy, whole foods or junk foods. There is no balance. Food is used as a reward or a treat, for comfort or punishment (in those who restrict) or it has become something we have to earn. It is a very complex, emotional world before we even throw in hormones, genetics, neurodivergence, blood sugar sensitivities and stress. There have been more positive steps towards body confidence. Certainly, from the early 2010s, #bodypositive and similar phrases became commonplace and we have seen a new era of plus-size models and influencers, all challenging the ideal standards that mainstream media and fashion tends to portray. I think this has been taken to the extreme as well and there is a fine line between being a metabolically healthy plus-size and being an unhealthy plus-size. These broader societal trends filter into my daily practice. For many clients living in a larger body, the appeal of weight-loss drugs is undeniable – even though most of them know the solution is rarely that simple or sustainable – but they crave being ‘normal sized’. What concerns me more is that some of my eating disorder clients – typically those with bulimia or binge-eating disorder – want the drugs too. It is also estimated that one in seven adults seeking obesity treatment meet the criteria for binge-eating disorder. I would suggest that this is probably higher, for there are many that either don’t seek help or go undiagnosed, and yet they too could be seeking, or offered, weight-loss drugs which has the danger of fuelling disordered eating further, especially once they stop. So where does that leave us when it comes to body confidence? I don’t think we’re going backwards but I do think the divide between the drive to be thin and the empowerment of body positivity is getting wider. Right now, I think the body positivity movement has been overtaken by the GLP-1s and I suspect this will continue for a few more years yet. Celebrities and influencers will continue to also drive the inspiration to be thin, shredded,

I don’t think we’re going backward but I do think the divide between the drive to be thin and the empowerment of body positivity is getting wider

toned or sculpted, especially for the younger generations. For those of us in midlife, I think we are seeing more positive role models in the media who haven’t had work done or resorted to pharmaceuticals. My biggest fear around this is the next generation. Recent data published by NHS England has found that one in 10 children are obese by the time they start primary school. What is life going to look for them by the time they are an adult? Fat shaming has never left us and I’m not sure it ever will sadly. If only we could move to a world where being in a larger body was as accepted as neurodivergence is becoming in recent years? If we ever hope to move past fat shaming – and close, not widen, the body confidence gap – we must radically improve both our national food system and nutrition education, starting in primary school. Real, lasting change lies in education and science, not the next miracle drug or Instagram trend.

Nicola Shubrook is a registered nutritionist and a certified functional medicine practitioner, and has also completed her training as a master practitioner in eating disorders with the National Centre for Eating Disorders. urbanwellness.co.uk

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The six principles of

no-nonsense nutrition

Firecracker chicken, p136

Nutritionist Dominique Ludwig’s scientific and straightforward rules for healthy eating will help you feel and perform better Words and recipes DOMINIQUE LUDWIG Photographs SMITH & GILMOUR 134

utrition can’t solve every issue but food is so much more than just energy. It’s nutrients: it affects our mood, sleep, digestion, stress levels, inflammation, cardiovascular health and countless other functions in our body, which in turn are all important in having a healthier, happier life. Changing how you eat, one meal at a time, is easy with my six principles.

1 2

IT’S ALL ABOUT PROPORTION

Aim for your main meals to comprise 1/4 protein, 1 /2 vegetables and 1/4 healthy carbs, and include some healthy fats. By maintaining the right proportions, you’ll feel fuller for longer and shut down food noise.

PRIORITISE PROTEIN

Build your plate around protein – aim for 30g with every meal. It’s essential for almost every function in the body and eating an adequate amount triggers hormones that increase satiety. Include plant-based proteins too, to enjoy the added health benefits.

FOCUS ON FIBRE

A fibre-rich diet is linked to improved health markers in almost every area and our microbiome thrives on the prebiotics in fibre. Aim for 10g of fibre with every meal, from a combination of vegetables, fruits, pulses, nuts and seeds, and wholefood carbohydrates.

4 5

EAT FATS – BUT THE RIGHT FATS

Fats get a bad rap but we need them to support brain and heart health, hormones and so much more. They need to be mostly healthy fats, so include extra-virgin olive oil, nuts and seeds, avocados and oily fish.

PLANT POINTS – 30 IS THE MAGIC NUMBER

Plants provide fibre, vitamins, minerals, trace elements and phytonutrients essential to health – and gut bacteria love diversity. Aim for 30+ different plants each week. Veg, fruit, pulses, wholegrains, herbs, nuts and seeds, spices and even coffee and chocolate count!

MIND THE GAPS – WHY THE TIMING OF YOUR MEALS MATTERS Aim for three meals a day, spaced four to five hours apart (without snacking) and 12-14 hours fasting overnight. Proper gaps between meals is linked to numerous health benefits, including less bloating, improved blood sugar regulation, better metabolic health, better weight maintenance, improved sleep quality and a healthier gut microbiome.

The 1,2,3,4,5 approach Step 1 Choose your protein

Build your plate around protein. Proteins should take up about a quarter of your plate, and below are approximate serving sizes – these depend on personal requirements and whether you’re combining proteins. Protein is also found in other foods, like healthy carbs. I mix and match them to make up my quarter plate – lentils and tofu, halloumi and chickpeas, chicken and beans – which can optimise protein and top up fibre. • 150g of cooked beans or lentils, tofu, tempeh or seitan • 110-150g of oily fish, white fish, shellfish, poultry or meat • 60-90g of cheese, such as feta, halloumi, goat’s cheese or mozzarella • 2-3 eggs • 50-75g unsalted raw nuts or seeds

Step 2 Add your vegetables

Add half a plate of vegetables (about 200-250g). Choose at least three different types and mix up the colours. These can be cooked, chopped into a salad, grated, cut into crudités, stir-fried, roasted, in a soup, threaded onto kebabs – be creative.

Step 3 Add a healthy carbohydrate

These should be around a quarter of your plate, which is 1-3 tbsp of pasta or grains (30-50g dry weight) or 50-75g of heavier seeded breads. This may not work for every meal, so don’t worry if you miss this out now and then. Remember that beans and lentils can also be a healthy carb – aim for 2-3 tbsp or about 65-110g.

Step 4 Think about healthy fats

Have you used healthy fats in cooking or as a dressing? Around 1 tbsp per meal is about right. Or, are there healthy fats included as part of your food, such as in fatty fish or avocado? If not, think about how you can add some. Make a quick French or tahini dressing in a jam jar, or add some olives, nuts or seeds to your plate.

Step 5 Add three things

Up the nutrients and diversity by adding three ingredients – for example, walnuts, olives, fermented veg (such as sauerkraut or kimchi), fresh herbs, shards of parmesan, pumpkin or sesame seeds, microgreens, a spoonful of hummus or even a bowl of miso soup.

Bonus Add a fruit

Enjoy a piece of fruit at your meals, if you like. It could even be part of your meal, like apple in a salad. Opt for lower-glycaemic fruits, such as berries, apples or kiwis.

» TURN OVER TO TRY SOME NOURISHING RECIPES

135

Firecracker chicken

Pesto and walnut crust salmon

I love firecracker chicken but in restaurants it can be high in sugar and is often unbalanced with too much rice and not enough protein, veg and fibre. So I’ve decided to give this recipe a healthy ‘triple 30’ makeover by going back to basics. Rather than use sugar I’ve used oranges to add a touch of sweetness. I’ve also reduced the rice serving to the perfect portion size and chosen red or black rice, which have nutty texture, are slower acting on blood sugars and contain extra plant pigments called anthocyanins. Feel free to use any rice you like though. I want to give you new ideas and options to jazz up your everyday cooking but having adaptations can help the recipes fit into your everyday life too. The vegetable side dish is necessary to keep your fibre up, so make sure to include it.

This can be a speedy midweek meal or makes an impressive showstopper for entertaining, simply by doubling the crust ingredients and swapping the salmon fillets for half a side of salmon (increase the cooking time to 25-35 mins, depending on the thickness). It tastes delicious cold as a make-onetake-one idea. It can also be cooked in an air fryer. I always like to have a jar of my green pesto in an airtight container in the fridge as it’s just so versatile but you can use ready-made pesto if you are short on time. To keep your pesto vibrant green, drizzle a layer of olive oil on top before storing.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 40 MINS | EASY

160g wholegrain sourdough or rye bread 50g walnut halves, crushed 100g walnut and basil pesto (see below) 2 tbsp lemon juice 4 x 100g salmon fillets GREEN WALNUT AND BASIL PESTO 80g parmesan, grated 80g basil leaves 50g walnut halves 2 garlic cloves, peeled 150ml extra-virgin olive oil TO GARNISH 10g mixed seeds TO SERVE large mixed salad (200-250g per serving) for example red and white cabbage, rocket, tomatoes, yellow pepper, cucumber, red onion with a simple oil and vinegar dressing and sprinkle of mixed seed for extra crunch and fibre lemon wedges

200g red or black rice 3 chicken breasts (about 400g) 25g cornflour 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil FIRECRACKER SAUCE 2 oranges, juiced 2 tbsp sriracha thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated 4 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp tomato purée 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil 2 tsp tamarind paste 1 tbsp tamari or soy sauce 1 tsp lemon juice VEGETABLES 3 red peppers, finely sliced 500g broccoli florets, roughly chopped 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil dash of vegetable stock or water TO SERVE 20g mixed white and black sesame seeds 2 spring onions, chopped Rinse the rice and put it in a pan with double the volume of water and a pinch of sea salt. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook following pack instructions, usually 25-35 mins, until tender. While the rice cooks, cut the chicken into bite-size pieces and coat in the cornflour. Combine the sauce ingredients in a small bowl. Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat and cook the chicken for 3-4 mins until just golden. Pour over the sauce and cook for 6-7 mins, stirring regularly until the sauce thickens and the chicken is fully cooked through. Meanwhile, stir-fry the peppers and broccoli in the oil along with a dash of stock or water in a wok or frying pan over a medium heat for 4-5 mins until just tender but still vibrant. Serve the chicken with the rice and veg. Sprinkle over the sesame seeds and spring onions. Left-over chicken will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to two days. Reheat until piping hot. PROTEIN 39G | FIBRE 9G | PLANT POINTS 7.75

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SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY

If you’re cooking the salmon in the oven, heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and line a baking tray or dish with baking paper. To make the pesto, put the parmesan in a food processor with the basil, walnuts, garlic, oil and 1/2 tsp of sea salt. Blend until smooth and creamy. Transfer to a clean, dry glass jar. Put the bread in the food processor and pulse until it forms fine crumbs. Stir in the walnuts, pesto and lemon juice. Put the salmon fillets, skin-side down, on the lined baking tray or dish. Divide the breadcrumb mixture between the fillets and press down to form a thick crust. Bake for 18-20 mins until the crust is golden and the salmon is just pale pink and cooked through in the centre. Or cook for 10-12 mins at 175C in an air fryer. Serve with a large mixed salad on the side and a lemon wedge to squeeze over the top. The salmon will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for two days. The pesto will keep, covered in a layer of oil, in an airtight container in the fridge for two weeks. PROTEIN 37G | FIBRE 10G | PLANT POINTS 15

137

Harissa beans on toast Creamy beans are comfort food on a plate but making your own is simple and takes less than 20 mins. Beans are incredibly versatile and also gentle on our blood sugar due to their high fibre content. I have boosted the protein in this dish with some yogurt and cheese, which softens the heat of the harissa and provides rich, creamy texture. The quality of your bread really matters – a traditional sourdough bread is fermented, which makes it easier for us to digest. Using the bean liquid creates creaminess but you can replace it with water if you prefer, particularly if you are sensitive to the gassy effects of beans (this is because bean water contains some of the carbohydrates that cause gas). There is no need to peel the carrots – a good scrub is enough as many of the nutrients are found just beneath the skin. I’ve served my harissa beans with a slice of seeded sourdough.

SERVES 2 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY 1 medium red onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium carrot, finely diced 1 red pepper, diced 400g tin or jar of flageolet beans or other white beans (240g drained weight), liquid reserved (optional) 1 tsp harissa 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp chopped fresh herbs (such as parsley or chives), plus extra to serve TO SERVE 2 tbsp greek yogurt 2 slices of sourdough bread 30g parmesan or vegetarian hard cheese, grated 50g sauerkraut or kimchi Fry the onion and garlic in a frying pan with the oil over a medium heat for 5 mins until softened and translucent. Add the carrot and pepper, and cook for 3 mins until just tender. Add the beans with their liquid (if using), the harissa, lemon juice and herbs, and season with salt and pepper. Simmer gently for 5-8 mins until the mixture thickens and becomes creamy. Remove from the heat and stir through the yogurt, or spoon the beans over the toasted sourdough and serve with the yogurt on the side. Top with parmesan, some extra herbs and a spoonful of sauerkraut. The cooked bean mixture will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for three days. PROTEIN 22G | FIBRE 15G | PLANT POINTS 7.5

Recipes extracted from No-Nonsense Nutrition by Dominique Ludwig (£26, Bluebird). Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

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RECIPE INDEX

44 48 32

Starters and d snacks k

10 Beetroot carpaccio with stracciatella and pistachio pesto GF V 32 Purple sprouting broccoli tempura with wild garlic aïoli V 52 Thakkali pachadi GF VE 104 Toum V

Mains and sides

107 Baked tomato, onion, sumac and olive oil flatbread V 29 Cambodian-style aromatic mussels GF 22 Cowboy butter-roasted chicken 128 Crispy rice and tofu salad VE 136 Firecracker chicken 126 Green spring clean soup V 106 Grilled halloumi salad with watermelon, mint and olive oil V 138 Harissa beans on toast V 52 Kerala fish moilee GF 145 Korean spicy pork bulgogi 54 Nadan chicken peralan GF

34 New potato, raclette and spring

60 Super-speedy chocolate h l t snack k cake k V

onion galette V 136 Pesto and walnut crust salmon 40 Pork and lemongrass meatballs with a miso glaze 24 Raclette party 44 Shredded oyster mushroom, miso and chilli tacos V 20 Slow cooked spiced lamb with orzo 8 Smoked haddock, gruyère and watercress tart 104 Spiced chicken shawarma with fries, pickles and toum

36 White chocolate mousse with poached rhubarb GF V 12 Wild garlic and cheese scones V

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Verna eats

SOUTH KO R E A Each month our columnist shares a recipe inspired by her travels, plus tips for making your own version at home Recipe VERNA GAO Photographs ANT DUNCAN

Korean spicy pork bulgogi This spicy, sticky, flavour-packed bulgogi is perfect for a quick weeknight dinner – it’s seriously addictive. You can use pork belly for this but I personally love pork shoulder. I’ve paired it with lettuce, kimchi, spicy marinated cucumber and, of course, some rice. It tastes so good and takes me back to my travels in South Korea. It’s also a great meal-prep recipe – make it ahead of time and just serve it up when you’re ready to eat.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

SERVES 4 AS A SHARING DISH | PREP 15 MINS PLUS MARINATING COOK 15 MINS | EASY BULGOGI 1 garlic clove, minced 1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, minced 1 tbsp gochujang 1 tbsp gochugaru (Korean chilli flakes) 1 tbsp honey 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tsp sesame oil 500g pork shoulder, thinly sliced CUCUMBER BANCHAN 1 cucumber, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, minced

1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp sugar 1 tbsp rice vinegar ½ tbsp gochugaru (or to taste) TO SERVE steamed rice little gem lettuce leaves kimchi First, make the bulgogi marinade. Mix together the garlic, ginger, gochujang, gochugaru, honey, soy and oil in a large bowl. Toss the pork in the marinade and let it sit for at least 20-30 mins. To make the cucumber banchan, toss the cucumber with the garlic, soy, sugar, vinegar and gochugaru. Let it sit for 5 mins to soak up the flavours. Heat a frying pan over a high heat and cook the pork for 8-10 mins until caramelised and cooked through. Serve the bulgogi with steamed rice, lettuce leaves, kimchi and the cucumber banchan. PER SERVING 369 kcals • fat 22G • saturates 7G carbs 16G • sugars 14G • fibre 2G • protein 25G • salt 1.5G

Verna Gao is a Shanghai-born chef, presenter, creator and author. She uses cooking as a means of staying connected to her Chinese heritage and loves travelling to learn about cultures through eating, as well as for recipe inspiration. Her book, Have You Eaten?, is out now. Follow her on Instagram @vernahungrybanana.

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Verna eats

SOUTH KO R E A

This spicy, sticky, flavour-packed bulgogi is perfect for a quick weeknight dinner – it’s seriously addictive

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