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O SEPTEMBER 2025

FOOD | TRAVEL | WELLBEING SEPTEMBER 2025

PHILLY CHEESESTEAK, COCONUT AND RASPBERRY LOAF CAKE, GOLDEN FRAGRANT CHICKEN, MOSAIKO GREEK CHOCOLATE SLICE, CREAMY GARLIC PRAWN PASTA

Layer it up Pistachio and raspberry tiramisu

GREECE ON A PLATE

Sun-soaked recipes to share

ISLAND VIBES

Discover Sri Lanka’s unique food culture

GOOD NIGHTS FOOD | TRAVEL | WELLBEING

What to eat for better sleep + EDD KIMBER’S PLUM BEE STING CAKE + LAMB KLEFTIKO WITH ROASTED TOMATOES HOT SOUR TAMARIND FISH CURRY + SMASHED MEATBALL KEBAB PLATTER

CAN $15 AUS $15.50

GBP £6.25

Welcome

COOK THE COVER Find the recipe on page 16

The classic Italian dessert tiramisu gets a colourfully fruity, nutty update thanks to raspberries and pistachio cream.

COVER PHOTOGRAPH: JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLING: AMY STEPHENSON. ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: CHRIS TERRY, GETTY IMAGES

elcome to September – officially the beginning of autumn but a month I still associate with the last days of summer. We’ve decided to keep that summery vibe going with some recipes from Helena and Vikki Moursellas, showcasing the simple but flavour-packed food of Greek tavernas. These are gorgeous crowd-pleasing recipes to bring a taste of the Med to your table – I’m already eyeing up the deep-fried stuffed olives, perfect with a crisp, chilled glass of assyrtiko. Elsewhere, Tony Naylor is singing the praises of the Yorkshire Dales, beautiful at this time of year and not surprisingly a real foodie hotspot to explore. Check out his deep dive into the region on page 67. Finally, getting a good, restorative night’s sleep is the new ultimate health hack – on page 50 our heath editor Emma explores how what you eat (and when) can have a positive impact.

On the podcast The podcast is on its summer holidays (back later this year) but you can still listen to more than 500 back episodes with brilliant characters from all over the food world, wherever you get your podcasts. Listen to the O podcast, available on Spotify, Acast and Apple.

Janine Ratcliffe, deputy magazines editor @Omagazine @missj9

HOW TO CONTACT US EDITORIAL TEAM OF THE YEAR O magazine and Good Food

General enquiries: Oweb@immediate.co.uk For subscription queries please call 03330 162 127 or visit buysubscriptions.com/contact.

SEPTEMBER contents

inspiration

The hot list Exciting foodie finds in Brussels, must-have art deco homeware and an iconic, loaded American sandwich.

Kitchen shelf Our pick of this month’s new must-try food and drink products.

Cook in season Dishes to celebrate tomatoes, herbs, berries and seafood.

Summer on a plate Helena and Vikki Moursellas’ quintessentially Greek recipes.

Signature dishes Learn the art of Malaysian cooking with Mandy Yin.

3 ways with Marmite The iconic spread is for much more than just toast.

Restaurateur Eroshan Meewella shares the food, culture and experiences that make this South Asian island so special.

Wellbeing These are the foods to prioritise 88

Cook like a local Taste the flavours of Armenia from the comfort of your home.

discover

Bolthole breaks Luxurious island retreats

Easy wins A spicy kebab platter using ready-made meatballs.

in Greece, Tenerife and the UK.

O guide to the Yorkshire Dales The best places to eat and drink in this beautiful part of the country.

Italian tiramisu with on-trend pistachio.

10 things I love about Sri Lanka

for a better night’s sleep.

cook On the cover Try a modern take on classic

German yeasted cake with plum compote.

Modern baking Edd Kimber’s spin on a

& don’t miss 14

Subscription offer Treat yourself or a loved one to an O magazine subscription and get your first five issues for just £5.

4 great getaways Experience top European trips beyond the capital cities.

58 76

Pro vs punter Our critic and a reader try

Reader offer Journey through the incredible Swiss Alps on the Glacier Express.

Manchester’s newest Thai residency.

80 78

The measure Celebrate local gin and the

Reader offer Grow your own fruit with savings on these abundant berry plants.

novelty of our favourite two-part bars.

97 81

Wine 101 Expert Kate delves into the unique wines of Rías Baixas, Spain.

Coming next month What’s in store for your October issue.

RECIPE INDEX

Starters, sides and drinks 78 Dry gin martini 55 Pumpkin gingerbread milk 28 Stuffed fried olives

Mains Meat 36 Black beef stew 30 Lamb kleftiko with roasted tomatoes and potatoes 88 Lamb with plums, green beans and cinnamon 9 Philly cheesesteak 98 Smashed meatball kebab platter with herby green yogurt

Birds 34 Golden fragrant chicken 53 Healthy turkey burger

Fish and seafood 20 Creamy garlic prawn pasta 22 Goan-style seabass curry

38 Hot sour tamarind fish curry 26 Mussel saganaki with red peppers

Vegetables 42 Cauliflower, cheddar and Marmite soup with cheesy Marmite croutons 40 DIY indomie 52 Spiced squash, spinach and lentil soup 91 Summer tolma with barberries

bringing you the best Mandy Yin Experience the diversity of Malaysian cooking (p34).

Breakfast, bakes and puddings 55 Banana and nut muffins 46 Cheese and Marmite rolls 18 Coconut and raspberry loaf cake 44 Croque Marmite 92 Gata with apricots and nuts 32 Mosaiko Greek chocolate slice 16 Pistachio and raspberry tiramisu 48 Plum bee sting cake 56 Pumpkin seed butter on rye

Helena and Vikki Moursellas

A masterclass in Greek entertaining dishes (p26).

Caroline Eden

Explore the fragrant flavours of Armenian food at home (p88).

24 Tomato jam

VIDEO EXTRA

SCAN TO FIND MORE GREAT CONTENT ON INSTAGRAM INCLUDING TRAVEL, WELLBEING AND RECIPE INSPO

MAKE GOOD FOOD

GREAT!

Find us in the Table Sauces & Condiments aisle Discover the rest of the range at:

@newmansownuk

Newman’s Own UK

THE HOT LIST with Gurdeep Loyal

Our trends expert reveals his exciting foodie finds in Brussels, must-have art deco homeware and an iconic, loaded American sandwich

PHOTOGRAPH: JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLING: AMY STEPHENSON.

SPOTLIGHT Philly cheesesteaks

Philadelphia is experiencing something of a culinary renaissance, with some of the best chefs in the USA now based there, along with a large African American and Southeast Asian diaspora leaving their own delicious marks on the city’s culinary scene. With this, the iconic sandwich of Philadelphia – the Philly cheesesteak – has had a revival. There are a handful of Philly cheesesteak institutions that are worth a visit: Pat’s and Geno’s being the most popular with tourists; Jim’s on South Street and Uncle Gus’ Steaks in Reading Terminal Market being popular with locals; and the viral Angelo’s Pizzeria serving up some of the best cheesesteaks around because of how it seasons its meat. The main decisions to make with ordering one is ‘wit or witout’ which refers to onions. Then there are cheese options to choose: provolone, American jack, cheddar and bright orange Cheez Whiz being the most popular. Then there are toppings and condiments to pick: green peppers, ‘long hot’ chilli peppers, ketchup, relish, mustard and Lucifer’s hot pepper powder being some of the top picks. This recipe amalgamates them all!

Philly cheesesteaks MAKES 4 LARGE SANDWICHES PREP 25 MINS PLUS FREEZING COOK 30 MINS | EASY 450g ribeye steak 2 large white onions 2 medium green peppers 2 tbsp olive oil pinch of sugar 8 pickled chilli peppers, plus 3 tbsp of brine from the jar 2 tsp onion powder or granules 4 slices of provolone or mozzarella 4 slices of mature cheddar TO SERVE 4 torpedo or submarine rolls American mustard tomato ketchup or relish

1 Put the steaks into freezer bags or containers, then freeze for 45 mins-1 hr or until firm. 2 Meanwhile, chop the onions and peppers into thin slices. Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a large deep frying pan over a medium heat, then cook the onions and peppers with a pinch of salt and sugar for 10 mins until beginning to soften and caramelise. Add a splash of water, then cover with a lid and cook for another 5 mins. Remove the lid, add the brine, then cook for 5 mins until completely softened. Remove to a bowl. 3 Using a very sharp knife, carefully slice the frozen steak into very thin, short strips. Put the meat into a bowl, then season with the onion powder and 1 tsp each of salt and black pepper. Mix well and leave for 10 mins. Heat 1 tbsp of oil in the pan used for the onions over a medium-high heat. Fry the steak for 5-6 mins or until just starting to crisp, then stir the cooked onions and peppers into the pan. Cook for 2 mins. 4 Arrange the mixture in the pan into four rectangular piles roughly the size of the rolls. Layer a slice each of provolone and cheddar over the top of each pile (this can be done in batches if needed). Splash a little water into the pan, cover with a lid and steam for 1-2 mins or until the cheese has melted. 5 Toast the rolls, then spread liberally with mustard and ketchup on each side. Fill with the cheesy steak and garnish with whole pickled chilli peppers to serve. PER SERVING 742 kcals | fat 36G | saturates 16G carbs 58G | sugars 9G | fibre 7G | protein 43G | salt 4.9G

Homeware Gohar World

Metallic dessert coupes are all the rage in stylish restaurants around the country – either frosted for perfectly scooped gelato, used as a vessel for deconstructed tiramisu or for piling in towers of sweet candy coloured bonbons. Gohar World’s art decoinspired, nickel-plated copper coupes are designed in a family-owned atelier in New York. They have an elegant shallow bowl and stylish stepped stem perfect for any understated table setting. They also make a pair of petit-four pedestals to match. From £78, gohar.world and Selfridges.

Baking & the Meaning of Life by Helen Goh “Why is baking so important in the way we signify and strengthen the things that are meaningful in our lives?” This is the big question that Helen Goh – Ottolenghi pastry chef and recipe writer – opens with in her captivating debut solo cookbook. Beautifully weaving psychology and baking, Helen explores how the very act of choosing to bake can create purpose and significance in our lives, as well as being a joyful outlet for creativity, connection and celebration. There are 100 sumptuous recipes drawn from Helen’s own life, including a playful caramelised cinnamon doughnut cake, showstopping chocolate tahini cake with sesame brittle, decadent chocolate turtle puddings and sublime pistachio and pomegranate madeleines. On sale 11 September (£26, Murdoch Books). @helen_goh_bakes

Brussels, Belgium

GOING UP Rabbit and hare Tasty, high in protein, low in fat and more climate friendly than many other meats, rabbit and hare are popping up on menus everywhere. Try the rabbit rillettes and carrot confiture at Lapin in Bristol.

GOING DOWN

Green goddess overload The bright green dressing – originally invented in the 1920s and most popular in the 70s – may have gone TikTok viral but it’s already become overkill. Try a classic tangy ranch dressing instead with fresh dill, parsley, buttermilk and mustard.

Brussels is one of the most innovative and cosmopolitan culinary destinations in Europe – and easy to get to from London on the Eurostar in under two hours. The ingredient-led Kline (kline. brussels) is one of the most exciting restaurants in the city, located in the trendy Dansaert area in a stylish brutalist building. The menu includes dishes like asparagus with morelles, miso and wild garlic, and weever fish with tartar. Ökēn (oken.be), under TheMerode club, is an elegant cocktail bar that serves up contemporary drinks combining alchemy, distillation, fermentation and maceration with delicious finesse. Its menu includes unique ingredients like plum bitters, white balsamic and szechuan pepper. Brigitte Chocolate (@brigitte.chocolate) is a tiny treasure box of a chocolate shop in the stylish Ixelles part of the city that sells unique single-origin and speciality bars from around the world. And Timber at Mix (mix. brussels) is a seasonal restaurant on the outskirts of the Sonian Forest that specialises in dishes cooked over fire in a spectacular setting.

GURDEEP LOYAL IS A FOOD AND DRINK TRENDS SPECIALIST WHO BUILT HIS CAREER AT HARRODS FOOD HALLS, INNOCENT DRINKS AND M&S FOOD. HE IS ALSO A FOOD, RECIPE AND TRAVEL WRITER. FIND MORE RECIPES IN GURD’S BOOKS FLAVOUR HEROES AND MOTHER TONGUE. @GURD_LOYAL

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, MARTIN PILETTE

Cookbook of the month

Foodie destination

KITCHEN SHELF Our pick of the month’s best new food and drink products

FIRE MADE SAUCES

These vibrant sauces from Ana Ortiz will bring a taste of Ecuador to your kitchen – the aliños can be used as a marinade or as the base of a stew, and the chimichurri is packed with herbs and garlic for a punchy condiment. £7, delli.market.

BOROUGH ORGANIC TONKOTSU BROTH

MELT GIANDUJA

Create your own mix and match bakes box from a selection of salted caramel brownies, chocolate orange tiffin, caramel pecan blondies and maple and fruit flapjacks – portions are very generous! £21.95 per box of nine, kneadbakery.co.uk.

A perfectly packed portion of the whole terrines that Melt sells by the slice in its boutique stores, this is a rich and smooth 38% milk studded with whole roasted hazelnuts. £12.99/100g meltchocolates.com.

PIPERS FARM LOW AND SLOW BBQ BOX

Channel your inner pitmaster with this speciality BBQ box of grass-fed brisket, free-range pork ribs, free-range chicken wings and Tubby Tom’s rubs. Perfect for a long, slow cook over the coals. £57.50, pipersfarm.com.

A delicious shortcut to ramen, this broth has been slow cooked using high-welfare organic pork bones then flavoured with a shio tare of spices and pink Himalayan salt. £6.15/400ml, boroughbroth.co.uk.

CURRY SMUGGLERS SNACKS

Spicy Indian-inspired snacks packed into fun beer can packaging – we loved the fiery, crunchy chakli made from rice and urid flour, and shaped using a traditional mould. From £7.49 for three cans.

KNEAD BY POST TREAT BOX

YEO VALLEY STEAK BURGERS

Made from organic, grass-fed beef from free-ranging cattle and simply seasoned with a little onion and pepper for a meaty, juicy burger. £5.25/pack of two, Tesco.

PEANUTS X GRIND COFFEE

This anniversary collab sees the speciality coffee company release tins, coffee mugs, cafetières and other merch with cute Snoopy and Woodstock motifs. From £14.95, grind.co.uk.

SECRET SMOKEHOUSE LONDON CURE SMOKED SALMON

Max Bergius supplies some of the finest restaurants in the UK with his smoked fish – we love the London Cure with its gentle smoke and melting texture. From £7.99/ 100g, secretsmokehouse.co.uk.

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cook Make the most of the last of summer’s bounty, bring the fresh flavours of Greece and Malaysia to your table, and find out what and when to eat for a better night’s sleep

PHOTOGRAPH: HANNAH TAYLOR-EDDINGTON. SHOOT DIRECTORS: GILLIAN MCNEILL, JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MCINTOSH.

ON THE COVER A fruity modern twist on the traditional Italian layered dessert Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH

Pistachio and raspberry tiramisu SERVES 10-12 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS CHILLING | EASY | V 500g mascarpone 500ml double cream 2 tbsp icing sugar 2 tsp vanilla extract 6 tbsp pistachio cream (we used Veggy Duck, available online) 2 large madeira loaf cakes, cut into even 1½cm slices 300g raspberries 2 tbsp bright green slivered pistachios RASPBERRY SAUCE 300g raspberries 1 tbsp icing sugar 2 tbsp raspberry liqueur (optional)

It’s important to use pistachio cream not butter for this as it has a nicer colour and a looser texture which combines well. Look for one with a high nut percentage – around 40% is good. 1 To make the raspberry sauce put all the ingredients and 2 tbsp of water in a food processor. Whizz until puréed then push through a sieve to remove the seeds. Keep chilled. 2 Put the mascarpone in a bowl, beat to loosen, then gradually beat in the double cream, sugar and vanilla. Gently beat in the pistachio cream. 3 Put the sauce in a shallow bowl. Dip the cake slices in the sauce then put in a single layer in a serving dish. Tip the whole raspberries into a bowl and crush with a fork to break up slightly. Spoon half onto the layer of cake slices, pushing down as you go. Spread over half the pistachio cream mixture and level out. 4 Repeat with another layer of soaked cake slices and remaining crushed raspberries, then pipe or spoon over the remaining pistachio cream. Chill for 4-5 hrs or ideally overnight. To serve, whizz the slivered pistachios in a spice grinder or small food processor, then scatter over the top. PER SERVING (12) 668 kcals | fat 52G | saturates 31G | carbs 40G sugars 30G | fibre 2G | protein 7G | salt 0.6G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLING: AMY STEPHENSON

COOK IN SEASON Make the most of raspberries, herbs, seafood and tomatoes this month Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs HANNAH TAYLOR-EDDINGTON

Coconut and raspberry loaf cake

175g salted butter, softened 175g golden caster sugar 3 large eggs 175g self-raising flour 100g dessicated coconut 2 tbsp milk 125g raspberries TOPPING 4 tbsp seedless raspberry jam 2 tbsp dessicated coconut raspberries, to decorate

1 Butter and line a 900g loaf tin with baking paper. Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. 2 Beat the butter and sugar in a bowl until pale, light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs one by one, adding a tablespoon of flour each time to stop it curdling. Fold in the remaining flour, coconut and milk, then fold in the raspberries. 3 Spoon into the tin and level, then bake for 1 hr 5 mins until risen and golden. Cool in the tin. 4 To finish, spread with the jam and sprinkle over a layer of dessicated coconut. Add some raspberries to finish. PER SERVING (10) 394 kcals | fat 24G | saturates 17G carbs 36G | sugars 23G | fibre 3G | protein 5G | salt 0.6G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MCINTOSH

SERVES 8-10 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 1 HR 5 MINS | EASY

Creamy garlic prawn pasta SERVES 2-3 | PREP 5 MINS COOK 15 MINS | EASY 200g linguine 1 tbsp butter 1 tbsp olive oil 1 garlic clove, crushed pinch of dried chilli flakes (optional) 125ml white wine 3 tbsp mascarpone, crème fraîche or double cream 200g raw king prawns, defrosted if frozen 2 tbsp of chopped soft herbs (such as chives, parsley or tarragon, or a mixture) squeeze of lemon juice

1 Cook the linguine following pack instructions. 2 Meanwhile, heat the butter and oil in a large frying pan over a low heat and cook the garlic and chilli flakes (if using) for 2 mins until fragrant. 3 Pour in the wine and simmer for a few minutes until reduced by half then stir in the mascarpone and season well. Add the prawns and cook until pink and cooked through. Stir in the herbs, then tip in the drained linguine and toss together with a splash of the cooking water until saucy and slippery. Finish with a squeeze of lemon juice then serve in warm bowls. 4 PER SERVING (3) 476 kcals | fat 16G | saturates 8G carbs 57G | sugars 4G | fibre 4G | protein 18G | salt 0.9G

Goan-style seabass curry SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 30 MINS | EASY | GF 4 skinless seabass fillets, cut into 8 large pieces 1 tsp ground turmeric 2 tbsp groundnut oil 1 tsp brown mustard seeds 1 dried red chilli 1 onion, grated 1 tbsp finely grated ginger 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin 2 ripe tomatoes, chopped 400g tin of coconut milk 1 tbsp tamarind paste steamed rice and coriander, to serve

1 Sprinkle the fish with half the turmeric and some salt. Heat the oil in a pan over a medium heat then add the mustard seeds and chilli. Once the seeds begin to pop add the onion and cook for 5 mins, then add the ginger and garlic, and cook for a few minutes until fragrant. 2 Stir in the ground coriander, cumin and the remaining turmeric, and cook for a couple of minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for 2 mins then add the coconut milk and simmer for 10 mins. Stir in the tamarind and season to taste. Add the fish to the pan and cook gently for 4-5 mins or until just cooked. Serve with rice and coriander. PER SERVING 425 kcals | fat 32G | saturates 18G carbs 11G | sugars 7G | fibre 3G | protein 21G | salt 0.4G

Tomato jam MAKES 2 X 300G JARS PREP 10 MINS | COOK 1 HR 10 MINS EASY | 1kg ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped 300g granulated sugar 2 tbsp finely grated ginger 1 tsp dried chilli flakes 1 tsp cumin seeds 2 lemons, juiced 1 star anise

1 Put all of the ingredients into a large heavy pan with 1 tsp of salt and a splash of water. Stir well and leave for 5 mins to sit before heating. 2 Put over a medium heat, stirring until the mixture comes to a boil. Simmer for 1 hr until thick, sticky and jammy – test by putting a teaspoon on a cold plate then leaving for a couple of minutes. It should be sticky with a jelly-like consistency once cool – if it’s still runny then keep cooking until you get the consistency you like. Decant into sterilised jars. Will keep chilled for up to three weeks. PER SERVING 23 kcals | fat 0G | saturates 0G carbs 6G | sugars 5G | fibre 0.2G | protein 0.1G | salt 0.1G

SUMMER ON A PLATE Transport yourself to Greece with these relaxed entertaining recipes, inspired by classic taverna dishes Recipes HELENA and VIKKI MOURSELLAS Photographs BONNIE COUMBE

Mussel saganaki with red peppers SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS COOK 45 MINS | EASY | GF 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 1 onion, chopped 1 red pepper, chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp finely chopped oregano leaves 1 tbsp tomato purée 80ml white wine 400g tin of cherry tomatoes 500g mussels, scrubbed, beards removed 70g feta lemon wedges, to serve

A note on prep The tomato-based sauce can be made the day before and reheated just before the mussels go in – the mussels need to be added fresh on the day of serving.

Mussel or prawn saganaki is a classic dish offered by seafood tavernas. The word saganaki, meaning little frying pan, refers to both the pan the dish is cooked in and the way the dish has been cooked. Usually mussel or prawn saganaki is cooked in a saganaki pan, with a rich pepper and tomato salsa, and scattered with feta. You may be more familiar with fried saganaki, where kefalotyri or kasseri cheese is dusted in flour and pan-fried, traditionally in a saganaki pan. It’s the one dish we tend to order again and again but maybe this one will become your new favourite. Feel free to use prawns instead of mussels – simply cook them for 10-12 minutes. 1 Heat the oil in a large ovenproof pan over a medium heat and fry the onion, pepper and garlic for 8-10 mins until softened. Add the oregano and tomato purée, and cook for 2 mins until caramelised. Stir in the wine and allow it to reduce by half. Add the tomatoes and 80ml of water, and simmer for 15 mins until the sauce has thickened. 2 Heat the grill to 250C. Increase the stovetop heat to medium-high. Arrange the mussels in the pan over the sauce, then cover with a lid and cook, shaking the pan constantly, for 10-12 mins or until the mussels have opened. Discard any mussels that don’t open. 3 Crumble the feta over the mussels, then put the pan under the grill for 5-8 mins until the feta is lightly golden. Drizzle with a little extra oil and serve with lemon wedges for squeezing over. PER SERVING 215 kcals | fat 13G | saturates 4G | carbs 9G sugars 9G | fibre 3G | protein 11G | salt 0.8G

Stuffed fried olives SERVES 4-6 | PREP 30 MINS COOK 20 MINS | EASY 180g kasseri cheese 36 large green olives, pitted 35g plain flour sea salt flakes 2 eggs 75g panko breadcrumbs vegetable oil, for deep-frying

It might sound like a lot of work to stuff an olive but it is so worth it. Appearing on nearly every Greek table, kasseri is a smooth, chewy cheese with a hard rind and a semi-hard to hard consistency. It works so well with the saltiness of the olives – and, once coated in a crumb and deep-fried, they are so moreish. 1 Slice the kasseri into tiny batons to fit into the slits in the olives, then carefully stuff the olives. 2 Put the flour in a bowl and season with salt flakes. Lightly beat the eggs in another bowl, and put the breadcrumbs in a third bowl. 3 Coat an olive in the flour, followed by the egg and finally the breadcrumbs. Put on a tray and repeat with the remaining olives. 4 Half-fill a pan with oil and heat to 180C. Working in batches, fry the olives for 4-6 mins until crispy and golden brown. Remove using a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper to remove any excess oil. Serve hot. PER SERVING (6) 266 kcals | fat 18G | saturates 8G | carbs 14G sugars 1G | fibre 2G | protein 12G | salt 2.1G

Lamb kleftiko with roasted tomatoes and potatoes SERVES 4-6 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT MARINATING COOK 4 HRS 20 MINS | EASY | GF 2.2kg bone-in leg of lamb 800g baby potatoes, larger ones cut in half 2 garlic bulbs, halved horizontally 1 red onion, cut into thin wedges 300g cherry tomatoes 1 tsp dried oregano sea salt flakes 1 tbsp olive oil LEMON AND OREGANO MARINADE 3 garlic cloves 1 tsp sea salt flakes 60ml lemon juice 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp dried oregano ¼ bunch of oregano, leaves picked and chopped 60ml olive oil

A note on prep Marinating the lamb the night before will enhance the flavour and help tenderise the meat – just make sure you bring the lamb back to room temperature before putting it in the oven.

Lamb kleftiko translates to thief’s lamb. The name originates from the Klephts who stole lambs and cooked them in underground ovens so all the smells wouldn’t escape and their stolen bounty would remain a secret. Wrapped in baking paper to seal all the delicious juices it’s our favourite way to cook and eat lamb leg. 1 To make the marinade, use a pestle and mortar to crush together the garlic cloves and salt. Add the lemon juice, cinnamon, dried and fresh oregano. Season with black pepper and grind until finely crushed, then stir through the oil. 2 Put the lamb in a large roasting tin. Pour over the marinade, then cover and leave to marinate for 2 hrs or overnight in the fridge. 3 Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Lay two long pieces of baking paper on top of each other – one widthways, the other lengthways, to form a cross – and put in a large roasting tin. Put the potatoes, garlic bulb halves, onion wedges and tomatoes in the tin. Season with the oregano, some salt flakes and black pepper, then drizzle with the olive oil and 60ml of water. 4 Put the lamb on top of the vegetables, fold the paper over, then cover with foil to completely enclose the lamb. Roast for 3 hrs, then increase the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6 and roast for 1 hr until the meat is tender. 5 Remove the foil and paper, and roast for 20 mins until the lamb is golden brown and crispy. 6 Allow the lamb to rest for 15 mins, then slice and serve with the potatoes, garlic and tomatoes. PER SERVING 787 kcals | fat 44G | saturates 15G | carbs 25G sugars 5G | fibre 5G | protein 69G | salt 1.2G

Mosaiko Greek chocolate slice MAKES 12 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT CHILLING COOK 10 MINS | EASY 160g unsalted butter, chopped 397g tin of condensed milk 220g good-quality dark chocolate, chopped 60g Dutch cocoa powder, sifted, plus extra for dusting 2 tsp brandy or whole milk 225g plain sweet biscuits, such as Marie biscuits

A note on prep You will need to make this the day before and leave it in the fridge overnight. The mosaiko will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 10 days.

Every country has its own version of mosaiko and this is how the Greeks make it. In our cookbook, Peináo, we included a mosaiko recipe that featured walnuts and sour cherries, and we had to include another version here again as it’s such a popular sweet to finish the night on. Usually nuts are added into the mix but we have kept this version simple. Brandy is optional but really complements the chocolate. This is truly one of the easiest desserts to make and you can prepare it well in advance. 1 Line a 10cm × 25cm loaf tin with baking paper. 2 Melt the butter in a pan over low heat. Add the condensed milk, chocolate and cocoa, and mix until melted and well combined. Stir in the brandy or milk. 3 Break the biscuits into roughly 2cm pieces and transfer to a large bowl. Pour over the chocolate mixture and gently mix until the biscuit pieces are well coated. 4 Spoon the mixture into the loaf tin and use a spoon to flatten the top. Cover with baking paper and leave to set in the fridge overnight. 5 The following day, remove the baking paper and cut the mosaiko into 2cm-thick slices. Serve dusted with extra cocoa powder. PER SERVING 411 kcals | fat 24G | saturates 14G | carbs 40G sugars 27G | fibre 3G | protein 6G | salt 0.3G

Recipes extracted from OPA! Recipes Inspired by Greek Tavernas by Helena and Vikki Moursellas (£30, Smith Street Books). Photographs: Bonnie Coumbe. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

SIGNATURE DISHES with Mandy Yin We ask our favourite creators to share recipes that represent their unique style of cooking Recipes MANDY YIN Photographs LOUISE HAGGER

Mandy Yin is Malaysianborn Chinese of Peranakan Nyonya heritage. Mandy owns and runs cult Sambal Shiok Laksa Bar in London and is regularly featured in the national press. Mandy’s life goal is to showcase the exciting variety of Malaysian food, and her latest cookbook, Simply Malaysian, is out now.

Golden fragrant chicken SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 15 MINS | EASY 600g skinless chicken thighs fillets, cut into bite-sized pieces 1 tsp ground turmeric 4 tbsp vegetable oil 2 red chillies, finely sliced, to garnish SPICE PASTE 1cm piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 2 bird’s-eye chillies 4 garlic cloves 1 small onion, roughly chopped SAUCE 1 tbsp yellow bean sauce or ½ tbsp white shiro miso paste 1 tbsp premium oyster sauce ½ tsp shrimp paste or 1 tbsp fish sauce 1 tbsp dark brown sugar 1 tsp ground black pepper

Kam heong golden fragrant sauce is very popular in Malaysia and is paired with all sorts of seafood – usually wok-fried crabs, clams or even prawns. I’ve found that it is also delicious with chicken. This is a crowd-pleasing dish as the chillies in the spice paste are tempered by the sugar and yellow bean sauce. 1 Using a stick blender or a high-speed food processor, blitz the spice paste ingredients to a fine purée. 2 Evenly coat the chicken in the ground turmeric. 3 Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a wok or large frying pan over a medium-high heat. Stir-fry the chicken for 5 mins to cook it through, then transfer it to a clean plate. 4 Using the same wok, stir-fry the spice paste in the remaining 2 tbsp of oil for 5 mins, then add all the sauce ingredients and stir-fry for 10 seconds. 5 Return the chicken back to the wok and stir-fry for 2 mins to char the chicken a little. Garnish with sliced chillies and serve. PER SERVING 401 kcals | fat 23G | saturates 4G | carbs 12G sugars 8G | fibre 1G | protein 35G | salt 0.9G

Black beef stew SERVES 4-6 | PREP 15 MINS COOK 2 HRS 10 MINS | EASY 2 medium onions, roughly chopped 2.5cm piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 6 garlic cloves 6 bird’s-eye chillies 100ml vegetable oil 1.4kg beef cheek, shin or chuck (weight after trimming off all excess tough sinew), diced into 2.5cm cubes 1 red chilli, finely sliced cooked rice, to serve SEASONINGS 120ml kecap manis 2 tbsp dark soy sauce 2 tbsp premium oyster sauce 2 tbsp tamarind paste 2 tsp ground coriander 2 tsp ground black pepper ½ tsp five-spice powder

My favourite Malaysian eatery in London is Dapur in Holborn – you must try the daging masak hitam black cooked beef if you ever see it on the menu. This is my recreation of it. Sweet with a deep depth of flavour from soy sauce but with a hefty chilli kick. You can’t help but go in for more. 1 Finely chop the onions, ginger, garlic and chillies in a food processor. 2 Heat the oil in a large non-stick pan over a medium-high heat and fry the onion mixture for 5 mins, stirring occasionally. 3 Add the beef and 400ml of water along with all the seasonings. Stir to combine and bring to the boil, then cover and simmer on the lowest heat on the smallest hob for 1 hr 30 mins, stirring every 20 mins. 4 Simmer uncovered for 30 mins to reduce the sauce. 5 Garnish with sliced chilli and serve with plenty of rice. PER SERVING (6) 518 kcals | fat 28G | saturates 6G | carbs 17G sugars 14G | fibre 3G | protein 47G | salt 2.6G

Hot sour tamarind fish curry SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS COOK 20 MINS | EASY 4 tbsp vegetable oil ¼ tsp white sugar 3 tbsp tamarind paste or worcestershire sauce 1 lemongrass stalk, bruised 600g oily fish (such as mackerel, sardines, pilchard, salmon or trout), cut into 2.5cm square chunks 200g okra, tops sliced off, cut into 2cm pieces ½-1 lime, juiced SPICE PASTE ½ small onion, roughly chopped 2.5cm piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 3 garlic cloves 4 red chillies, roughly chopped 100g tin of chopped tomatoes or fresh tomatoes, roughly chopped ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp shrimp paste or 1-2 tbsp fish sauce, to taste

This is based on a Peranakan Nyonya assam pedas hot sour fish curry, full of a Nyonya’s favourite ingredients: tamarind, chillies, shrimp paste and lemongrass. It comes together very quickly and has a thin yet punchy sauce. 1 Blitz the spice paste ingredients to a fine purée using a stick blender or high-speed food processor. 2 Heat the oil in a medium non-stick pan over a medium-low heat and fry the spice paste for 10 mins. 3 Add the sugar, tamarind, lemongrass, ¾ tsp of salt and 250ml of water to the pan, and bring to the boil. 4 Add the fish pieces and okra, bring back to the boil, then simmer, covered, on the lowest heat for 5 mins – do not stir to avoid the fish breaking up, and be very gentle when transferring the curry into the serving bowls. 5 Squeeze over the lime juice to taste before serving. PER SERVING 512 kcals | fat 36G | saturates 6G | carbs 12G sugars 10G | fibre 4G | protein 34G | salt 1.4G

DIY indomie SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 15 MINS | EASY | V 125g dried fine egg noodles fried shallots in oil (see boxout) 4 tbsp kecap manis 150g beansprouts 2 eggs TO SERVE few stalks of coriander (optional) 2 spring onions, finely sliced tomato sambal or other sharp chilli sauce or chilli oil

All South East Asians will be familiar with indomie mi goreng – thin, springy, instant noodles mixed with sachets of unmistakable sweet/ savoury flavour. Although you will find indomie in many Western supermarkets nowadays I sometimes like making my own as it is mind-bogglingly simple and doesn’t contain any extra preservatives. Shallot oil is the Most Valuable Player of this recipe – you can’t make it without (see the boxout below for the recipe) – and you must have a fried egg with crispy edges. 1 Cover the noodles with boiling water. Drain after 3 mins and rinse thoroughly under cold running water to wash away the excess starch. 2 Put 3 tbsp of shallot oil and 2 tbsp of drained shallots in a non-stick wok set over a medium-high heat. Add the noodles and kecap manis, and stir-fry for 5 mins, leaving for 20 seconds every now and then to allow the bottom to char. 3 Add the beansprouts and stir-fry for 2 mins, then transfer the noodles and beansprouts to two plates. 4 Using the same wok, fry the eggs then put on top of the noodles. Tear up the coriander and sprinkle over the dishes together with the spring onions. Serve immediately with the chilli condiment of your choice. PER SERVING 592 kcals | fat 31G | saturates 4G | carbs 57G sugars 12G | fibre 5G | protein 20G | salt 2.7G

Fried shallots in oil Heat 200ml of vegetable oil in a small pan over a medium heat for 5 mins – the oil is hot enough when a quick, steady stream of bubbles rise around a wooden chopstick held upright in the oil. Fry 100g of shallots for 3 mins 30 seconds, stirring every 30 seconds, until light golden brown. Take the pan off the heat and use a small, fine-mesh sieve to drain the shallots from the oil and spread them evenly across a plate lined with kitchen paper. Leave the shallots and oil to cool, then combine them in a sterilised glass jar to store. They will keep in a cool, dry place for 2-3 months.

Recipes extracted from Simply Malaysian by Mandy Yin (£27, Quadrille). Photographs: Louise Hagger. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

3 WAYS WITH MARMITE Not just for toast, these recipes show the nation’s most controversial spread is much more versatile than you might think Recipes HELENA BUSIAKIEWICZ Photographs JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH

Cauliflower, cheddar and Marmite soup with cheesy Marmite croutons

SERVES 6 | PREP 15 MINS COOK 1 HR | EASY | V

This is a comforting soup packed with umami flavour.

3 tbsp olive oil 1kg cauliflower, including the leaves, roughly chopped 1 onion, finely chopped 1 celery stick, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, grated 1 tbsp Marmite 900ml vegetable stock 60ml crème fraîche, plus extra to serve 100g mature cheddar, coarsely grated CROUTONS 200g sourdough, chopped into chunks 2 tbsp unsalted butter 1 tsp Marmite 25g mature cheddar, finely grated

1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Drizzle the cauliflower and its leaves with 2 tbsp of oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 30-45 mins or until softened, golden and charred. 2 When the cauliflower has about 15 mins left, pour 1 tbsp of oil into a large pan over a medium heat. Once shimmering, scatter in the onion and celery with a large pinch of salt. Cook for 10 mins, stirring often, then add the garlic and cook for 2 mins. 3 Stir in the Marmite, then add the cauliflower. Cover with the stock, topping up with hot water to cover if needed, and simmer for 10 mins. 4 Remove from the heat and stir through the crème fraîche and cheddar. Blitz with a hand blender or leave to cool before transferring to a jug blender and blitzing until smooth. Season with black pepper. 5 For the croutons, put the sourdough in a medium roasting tray. Melt the butter and Marmite in a small pan over a low heat, seasoning with a few twists of black pepper. Stir gently, then drizzle over the bread, making sure each piece is well coated. Bake for 15 mins, then sprinkle over the cheese, then return to the oven for a final 3-5 mins until golden and crisp. 6 Pour the soup into bowls and top with a spoonful of crème fraîche and a few croutons. PER SERVING 374 kcals | fat 23G | saturates 11G | carbs 25G sugars 8G | fibre 6G | protein 14G | salt 1.4G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLING: AMY STEPHENSON

Croque Marmite

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS COOK 30 MINS | EASY 20g salted butter 20g plain flour 250ml whole milk 1 /4 nutmeg, finely grated 2 tsp Marmite 2 tbsp dijon mustard 250g gruyère, grated 50g cheddar, grated 8 thick slices of white bread 4 slices of ham 1 tbsp vegetable oil 4 eggs (optional) salad, to serve

Using the grill means you can make a few croques at a time – ideal for feeding a crowd. 1 Melt the butter in a pan over a medium heat. Once foaming, scatter in the flour and stir to make a paste. Cook for 1 min, stirring, then add the milk a splash at a time, stirring until you have a smooth sauce. 2 Whisk in the nutmeg, 1 tsp of Marmite and the mustard. Season well with black pepper and a pinch of salt. Remove from the heat and whisk in 50g of gruyère and all the cheddar until melted and combined, then take off the heat. 3 Heat the grill to high. Put the bread on a large baking tray under the grill for 2-3 mins or until golden. Remove and flip them over so the untoasted side is facing up. Spread each with a smear of Marmite, then sprinkle over the remaining gruyère. Grill for a few minutes until the cheese is melted. Top half of the slices with the ham and then the other slices of bread, then spread 3-4 tbsp of the béchamel sauce on top of the closed sandwich. 4 Return to the grill for a few minutes until the béchamel is golden, bubbling and charred in spots. 5 If adding an egg, heat 1 tbsp of oil in a small frying pan. Once hot, crack in the egg and cook to your liking. Drain on kitchen paper then put on top of the sandwich. Serve with a vinegary salad, if you like. PER SERVING 673 kcals | fat 35G | saturates 20G | carbs 50G sugars 6G | fibre 3G | protein 38G | salt 4G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: NICOLA ROBERTS

Cheese and Marmite rolls

MAKES 12 | PREP 40 MINS PLUS PROVING | COOK 40 MINS MORE EFFORT | V

These are great for levelling up lunchboxes, packed full of your favourite sandwich fillings.

500g strong white bread flour 300ml whole milk, plus a splash 1 tbsp Marmite 1 egg, beaten 7g fast-action dried yeast 1 tsp caster sugar 80g unsalted butter, softened 75g cheddar, finely grated

1 Make a tangzhong by putting 50g of the flour in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in 200ml of the milk until combined. Heat in the microwave on high for 2 mins, stirring halfway, until it forms a gluey, thick paste. Leave to cool until just warm. 2 Meanwhile, gently heat the remaining milk until just steaming, then add the Marmite and whisk to combine. Leave to cool slightly, then whisk the egg. 3 Tip the remaining flour into the bowl of a stand mixer with the yeast, sugar and 1 tsp of fine sea salt, whisking to combine. Turn the machine to medium speed, add the cooled tangzhong, then slowly stream in the warmed milk. Mix for 5-6 mins or until the dough forms a ball that pulls away from the sides of the bowl. 4 Add the butter 1 tbsp at a time, waiting for the first to be absorbed before adding the next, mixing for 10-12 mins. Transfer the dough to a large, oiled bowl and leave to prove for 1 hr until doubled in size. 5 Knock back the dough and divide into 12 balls. Put them into a lined baking dish, slightly spaced apart. Cover and prove for 1 hr until puffy and the balls are touching. 6 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Brush the buns with a splash of milk, then sprinkle over the cheese. Bake for 20-25 mins or until golden. PER SERVING 256 kcals | fat 10G | saturates 6G | carbs 33G sugars 2G | fibre 1G | protein 9G | salt 0.7G

MODERN BAKING with Edd Kimber

This take on a traditional German cake sees a rich yeasted sponge filled with vanilla cream and plum compote, topped with honeyed almonds Recipe EDD KIMBER Photograph JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH

Plum bee sting cake

he bee sting cake, or bienenstich kuchen, is a German recipe that is a cake in a very old sense – before the invention of chemical leaveners there was a tradition of cakes made with yeast instead of baking powder. Made of a brioche-like dough, enriched with butter and eggs, the cake is topped with a layer of honeyed almonds and then split and filled with a rich vanilla cream. In my version I like to add a second filling – a plum compote which is delicious paired with the vanilla and honey notes.

SERVES 8-10 | PREP 1 HR PLUS RISING AND PROVING COOK 50 MINS | MORE EFFORT VANILLA CUSTARD FILLING 250ml whole milk 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 75g caster sugar 25g cornflour 2 large eggs 25g unsalted butter 175ml double cream DOUGH 250g strong white bread flour 50g caster sugar 5g fine sea salt 5g fast-action dried yeast 60ml whole milk 2 large eggs, plus 1 for egg wash 100g unsalted butter, diced and softened, plus extra for the tin HONEY ALMOND TOPPING 40g honey 40g unsalted butter, diced 20g caster sugar 85g flaked almonds PLUM COMPOTE 3 plums 1 /2 lemon, juiced 3 tbsp caster sugar

1 To make the custard, put the milk, vanilla and half the sugar in a pan, and bring to a simmer. Put the remaining sugar, cornflour and eggs in a large bowl, and whisk until smooth. Pour over the milk mixture, whisking as you pour. Pour the custard back into the pan and cook over a medium heat, whisking constantly, until very thick and bubbling. Cook for 1 min, then scrape into a bowl and whisk through the butter. Cover and chill until needed. 2 For the dough, put the flour, sugar, salt and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer, and mix to combine. Add the milk and eggs, and mix to form a dough. Knead the dough on medium speed for 10 mins until smooth and elastic. Add the butter and knead until fully combined and the dough is once again smooth and elastic, and no longer sticking to the sides of the bowl. Form into a ball, put into a lightly buttered bowl and cover, setting aside for 1 hr-1 hr 30 mins until doubled in size. 3 Lightly butter a 23cm springform cake tin, lining the base and sides with baking paper. 4 Tip the dough onto a lightly floured worksurface and knock back. Shape the dough into a neat ball and then roll or press into a 23cm diameter disc. Put it into the prepared pan, cover and proof for 1 hr until doubled in size. 5 For the topping, cook everything except the almonds in a small pan over a medium heat until melted and bubbling vigorously. Stir through the almonds and remove from the heat. 6 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. When the dough is proofed, gently spoon on the topping, trying to ensure an even layer. Bake for 20-25 mins until the topping is a rich golden brown. Remove and set aside to cool. 7 For the compote, cut the plums in half, discarding the pits. Cut each half into 4 slices and put in a pan along with the lemon juice and sugar. Cook over a medium heat for 5 mins until it has a reduced, almost jammy consistency. Set aside to cool. 8 Remove the custard from the fridge and beat until smooth. In a separate bowl, whisk the cream until it holds medium peaks. Add the cream to the custard and fold to combine. Remove the cake from the tin and use a bread knife to slice into two even layers. Spread the compote over the bottom layer and top with the cream, spreading to the edges. Use a serrated knife to cut the top cake layer into triangles (as if portioning a cake) and put these on top of the cream layer – pre-cutting the top layer allows for cleaner slices. The cake is best served on the day. PER SERVING (10) 531 kcals | fat 32G | saturates 16G carbs 48G | sugars 27G | fibre 1G | protein 11G | salt 0.7G

EDD KIMBER IS A BAKER, FOOD WRITER AND THE AUTHOR OF SEVEN COOKBOOKS, INCLUDING HIS LATEST, SMALL BATCH COOKIES. FIND HIM ON SUBSTACK AND INSTAGRAM @THEBOYWHOBAKES.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLING: AMY STEPHENSON

WHAT AND WHEN TO EAT FOR BETTER SLEEP A bad night makes us miserable but consistent poor sleep can have a negative impact on health. Here’s how to optimise your dinner to give bedtime a boost Words EMMA HARTFIELD

When is the best time to eat dinner? “The act of eating pushes up the body’s core temperature and this can disrupt sleep. So try to eat your evening meal at least three hours before bed,” advises nutritionist Kerry Torrens. “Most evenings I aim to finish my evening meal no later than 8pm and often earlier – I find I sleep better when I have a break between eating and retiring for the night. There are plenty of other valid reasons to support eating earlier in the day, not least that front-loading your calorie intake may help curb your appetite and help you stick to those healthier food choices.” Dietitian and gut health specialist Catherine Rabess agrees: “I would always try to give myself two to three hours of eating nothing before bedtime as it is important to ensure your food is properly digested before lying down.”

Which foods can aid sleep? The neurotransmitters serotonin and melatonin are crucial in signalling to your brain that it’s time for sleep. An amino acid (tryptophan) is necessary for helping your body produce these neurotransmitters. Dairy, oats, bananas, chicken, turkey, eggs, peanuts and tuna all contain useful quantities of tryptophan. It seems that there might be some validity in the idea of drinking a glass of warm milk before bed.

Also important for relaxing your body and mind are the minerals magnesium and calcium. According to Kerry: “A lack of these minerals may cause you to wake up during the night and make returning to sleep difficult. Interestingly, insomnia is one of the main symptoms of magnesium deficiency.” Adding spinach, nuts and seeds to your dinner will boost your magnesium levels. Alternatively some Epsom salts (another name for magnesium sulfate) in your pre-bed bath could have the same effect. Then, for helping you to stay asleep, you need to ensure you’re eating the right foods to keep you feeling full and your blood sugar levels stable. Protein is useful here, according to nutritionist Nicola Shubrook: “I just ensure that I have adequate protein with my evening meal to keep my blood sugars stable during the night so that I don’t wake up.”

What to avoid in your meal before sleep? Caffeine is the best known sleep thief. Some of us are more sensitive than others to its effects but the general advice is to avoid coffee, tea, cola and energy drinks after midday, as it takes the body around five to six hours to eliminate caffeine. Too much sugar can also cause problems. All-important magnesium is used up helping your body process sugar so even overdoing sugar during the day can have a knock-on effect. A sugary snack before bed (easy on the after-dinner chocs!) is likely to lead to a blood sugar crash, causing you to wake in the middle of the night. Alcohol has the same effect on blood sugar, as well as dehydrating you, which may mean you wake early due to thirst. Sadly it seems that a nightcap isn’t the sleep aid you may have thought it was. Finally, foods which require your digestion to work harder can also impact sleep quality. High amounts of starchy, fatty or ultra-processed foods will be poor dinner options for this reason. Find a selection of breakfasts, dinners and bedtime snacks on the following pages to help you drop off more easily.

PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

ou can feel the impact of a bad night’s sleep immediately: sluggish brain, lack of energy and the increased desire for sugary snacks or caffeine. However, there’s a more serious side to long-term sleep problems, with a greater likelihood of type-2 diabetes, heart disease, depression and a weaker immune system. What and when you eat can affect your rest – both through choosing foods that will benefit your body and avoiding disrupting sleep cues with energising ingredients or digestion issues.

Spiced squash, spinach and lentil soup If you’re vegetarian (vegans will need to skip the yogurt topping), meals don’t always contain sufficient protein to keep you feeling full into the night. The lentils in this dish will help, while the magnesium-heavy spinach will also benefit your rest. SERVES 6 | PREP 30 MINS COOK 1 HR 15 MINS | EASY | V 400g butternut squash, peeled and cut into chunks

2 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp cumin seeds, toasted, plus a few pinches to serve 300g Puy lentils 1.5 litres vegetable stock 75g bulgur wheat 200g baby spinach, chopped ½ lemon, zested and juiced 4 tbsp natural yogurt

1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Put the squash in a roasting tin, drizzle with the oil, season and toss with the cumin seeds. Roast for 25-30 mins until golden. 2 Scoop half the squash from the tin and put in a pan. Add the lentils and 1 litre of the

stock, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 35-40 mins, adding the bulgur wheat for the final 10 mins. 3 Use a wooden spoon to mash some of the squash pieces in the soup. Stir the spinach, lemon zest and juice, and remaining stock and squash into the soup, and heat through. Serve with a dollop of yogurt and a sprinkle of toasted cumin seeds. PER SERVING 308 kcals | fat 7.3G saturates 1.5G | carbs 37G | sugars 5.5G fibre 11G | protein 18G | salt 0.2G

Healthy turkey burger A balanced dinner with plenty of protein will help keep your blood sugar levels on an even keel. Tryptophan-boosting turkey is also useful for a better night’s sleep. SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS COOK 40 MINS | EASY 450g turkey mince 1 egg, beaten handful of parsley, finely chopped 1 tsp garlic granules ½ lemon, zested CHUTNEY 4 vine tomatoes, finely chopped 1 bay leaf

1 small red onion, finely chopped 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 2 tbsp soft light brown sugar TO SERVE 4 wholemeal buns, split 4 tbsp mayonnaise handful of shredded Iceberg lettuce tomato slices red onion slices mixed salad, coleslaw or sweet potato wedges

1 Simmer the chutney ingredients in a pan and over a medium heat, stirring regularly for 25-30 mins until the tomatoes have broken down and the mixture has thickened and looks jammy. Remove from the heat, cool and season well.

2 Squash together the mince, egg, parsley, garlic granules and lemon zest with some seasoning using clean hands, then form into four patties. Heat the grill to its highest setting and move the rack to the upper third of the oven. Put the patties on a tray and cook under the grill for 4-6 mins on each side or until cooked through. 3 Toast the cut sides of the buns under the grill or in a dry frying pan. Spread with the mayo, then sandwich with the lettuce, tomato and onion slices, burger patties and tomato chutney. Serve with a mixed salad, coleslaw or sweet potato wedges. PER SERVING 481 kcals | fat 20.2G saturates 3.6G | carbs 37.5G | sugars 16.7G fibre 5.2G | protein 34.8G | salt 0.9G

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Pumpkin gingerbread milk

Banana and nut muffins

A milky drink before bed isn’t just an old wives’ tale – it really can help you drift off. This comforting, caffeine-free bedtime beverage is packed with tryptophan for a restful night.

With bananas, yogurt and eggs for tryptophan, and almonds and nut butter for magnesium, these muffins contain excellent sleep-boosting ingredients, making them a good choice for a late-night snack.

250g self-raising flour 1 tsp baking powder 25g ground almonds 75g light brown muscovado sugar 3 very ripe bananas, 1 chopped 100g nut butter 2 eggs 100g natural yogurt 60g toasted flaked almonds 125g golden icing sugar

1 Spoon the pumpkin into a small pan and whisk in the milk over a low heat. Once combined, stir in the remaining ingredients and cook over a low heat for 3-4 mins, whisking frequently until combined and warmed through. 2 Serve in a mug with a cinnamon stick for stirring.

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line a 12-hole muffin tin with muffin cases. Tip the flour, baking powder, almonds and sugar into a large bowl. Mix the mashed banana with the nut butter, eggs and yogurt until the mixture is smooth, using a hand blender if you have one. Fold together the wet mixture and dry mixture along with the chopped banana and half the flaked almonds – don’t worry if it looks a bit lumpy. 2 Divide the mixture between the cases and bake for 15-20 mins until the muffins have risen and are golden. Leave to cool. 3 Mix the icing sugar with a little water to make it runny enough to drizzle but thick enough not to run off the muffins. Spoon a little onto each muffin and add some flaked almonds to finish.

Pumpkin seed butter on rye Pumpkin seed butter makes the perfect vegan toast topper for breakfast. Serve with apple and chia seeds for an energy-boosting brekkie. Add date nectar for sweetness or leave out for savoury toast toppings. SERVES 4 | PREP 2 MINS | COOK 15 MINS EASY | 200g pumpkin seeds 2 tbsp avocado oil or melted coconut oil 1 tsp date nectar (optional) 4 slices rye bread, toasted TOPPINGS red apple slices and chia seeds sliced celery and crumbled walnuts banana, ground cinnamon and agave syrup

1 Toast the pumpkin seeds in a frying pan in a single layer on a low heat for 5-8 mins, tossing every few minutes to toast both sides, until they’re golden and smell nutty. Remove from the pan and leave to cool. 2 Tip into a food processor and blitz to a fine powder – this may take up to 10 mins so if the blender gets very hot turn it off and let it cool down before continuing. 3 Drizzle in the avocado oil and a pinch of sea salt flakes, and blend again until it forms a smooth paste. Add the date nectar (if using) and blend again. 4 Spread 1 tbsp of the pumpkin seed butter over toasted rye and serve with the toppings you like. Left-over butter will keep, covered, in the fridge, for a week. PER SERVING 127 kcals | fat 10.3G | saturates 3G | carbs 3G sugars 0.2G | fibre 1G | protein 5G | salt 0.1G

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See the spectacular Swiss Alps up close on board the Glacier Express Experience the magic of the mountains with an epic rail journey through majestic peaks, dramatic ravines and beautiful villages From

£1,595 per person*

DATES: 30 SEPTEMBER-4 OCTOBER 2025, 9-13 DECEMBER 2025, 2-6 FEBRUARY 2026, 7-11 APRIL 2026 A truly breathtaking journey through the Swiss mountains awaits on this five-day no-fly tour. From your base in the beautiful town of Interlaken, you’ll explore the very best of Switzerland’s natural beauty – with multiple train journeys, including a wonderful scenic ride aboard the Glacier Express, known as the slowest express train in the world. Depart from London to Paris and on to Interlaken, you will cruise Lake Lucerne, ride a historic train to the summit of Rigi Kulm, explore Switzerland’s capital, Bern, and cruise Lake Thun on a vintage boat. The highlight will undoubtedly be your journey on the iconic Glacier Express from Chur to Brig and tucking into a delicious threecourse lunch while on board.

REASONS TO BOOK

WHAT’S INCLUDED

No-fly holiday Travelling by rail is the best way to take in Switzerland’s stunning scenery. Marvel at the ever-changing landscapes as they pass you by.

• Travel from London St Pancras to Switzerland by rail on the Eurostar in standard class • Four nights at the Hotel Crystal, Interlaken, with breakfast • A three-course dinner at a restaurant in Interlaken • Four-day Swiss Travel Pass, which covers all rail travel within Switzerland • Journey on the Lucerne-Interlaken Express scenic train • Cruise on Lake Lucerne • Journey by rail to the summit of Mount Rigi • Journey on the thrilling Glacier Express from Chur to Brig, with a three-course lunch on board • Visit Switzerland’s capital city, Bern • Cruise the length of Lake Thun, from Thun to Interlaken • Transfers between stations in Paris

Lake cruises During this tour you’ll cruise the crystal-clear Alpine waters of Lake Lucerne and board a vintage boat to sail the length of Lake Thun. Glacier Express Ride the iconic red train from Chur to Brig and enjoy a delicious three-course lunch on board as you take in the dramatic scenery on this marvellous rail journey. Interlaken You’ll stay in the beautiful town of Interlaken, surrounded by mountains, dense forest and glaciers – it’s the perfect base for appreciating Switzerland’s natural wonders.

To book call 03301 738 169 and quote ‘O’ or, for more information, visit O.tripsmiths.com/glacier TERMS AND CONDITIONS From price is per person, based on two people sharing a standard room, subject to availability. Price and itinerary correct at time of print but may be subject to change. Single supplement applies. Deposit 30%. Local charges such as tourist tax may apply. Offers are not valid in conjunction with any other offers or promotions. Travel insurance is not included and should be taken out at time of booking. Images used may not reflect your actual tour experience. Tour is operated by and subject to the booking conditions of TS Travel Limited (ATOL bonded).

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PHOTOGRAPH: HADYNYAH/E+/GETTY

Heavenly island escapes to book now, foodie guides to Sri Lanka and the Yorkshire Dales, and explore the distinctive cuisine of Armenia at home

BOLTHOLE BREAKS Island escapes Explore these luxurious retreats, from coastal Greek villas to a boutique Canarian hotel and a seaside Isle of Wight townhouse

Eliámos, Kefalonia, Greece In a nutshell This all-villa hotel blends privacy with five-star hotel luxury and uninterrupted views of the Ionian Sea.

Which room to book? Villas blend minimalist Mediterranean design with contemporary luxury. Expect high ceilings and open beams, generous bathrooms with olive oil toiletries to use in waterfall showers and floor-to-ceiling bi-fold doors opening onto private terraces with saltwater pools. The nine villas on the main plot boast uninterrupted sea views, while three across the lane offer seclusion in lush gardens and olive groves. What’s for breakfast? Wake up early to watch the sunrise from the breakfast terrace. The à la carte menu includes a range of egg dishes and avocado on toast variations, along with Greek specialities such as bougatsa thessalonikis (vanilla cream and cinnamon filled pastries), fresh pita and pancakes with local honey and apricot jam. Anything else? Unwind with in-room spa treatments, walk down a secret path to the secluded beach cove or hop on an e-bike to explore the island. For a hands-on experience, join a Mediterranean cookery class on the Olais restaurant patio. eliamos.com

WORDS; LUCY ROXBURGH, JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE, CHRISTINE HAYES. PHOTOGRAPHS: AGGELOS KOSMATOS PHOTOGRAPHY, FELIX LEDRU, @MARTHAWARD

What’s the vibe? Designed to feel like a home away from home rather than a hotel, 12 secluded villas are set on the hillside, divided by lavender-lined paths to create a village atmosphere. Neutral tones and natural materials, from local ceramics to raffia wall hangings, add to the spacious and airy feel throughout.

Royal Hideaway Corales Villas, Tenerife In a nutshell Boutique luxury hotel located in the tranquil south of Tenerife. What’s the vibe? Framed by panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean and bold volcanic peaks, Royal Hideaway Corales Villas offers a holistic experience designed for those wanting to recharge and disconnect. It’s sleek and minimalist, a neutral colour palette taking inspiration from the rugged landscape of the island. Large windows and a pool framed with palm trees further the hotel’s spirit of reconnecting with nature. Which room to book? Junior suites have Nordic-inspired interiors, swim-up pools and sea views. For further privacy the two-bedroom deluxe suites or two- and three-bedroom villas are spacious yet secluded, all equipped with a kitchen, vast terrace, private pool and outdoor lounge areas. Food and drink Restaurant Bonfire boasts 360-degree island views and light bites such as beetroot carpaccio with feta and grilled almonds, caviar and smoked seabass sandwiches, and steak tartare with grilled bone marrow. For elevated dining, Crater serves two set menus, each paying homage to a different island in the Canaries, starting with La Palma. Highlights include Bigeye tuna belly and pickled red mojo marinade, and heirloom tomato sorbet with goat’s milk whey and fig leaf oil. Signature cocktails at Materia Elemental Bar are inspired by the four elements – earth, water, fire and air – enriched with subtle Canary Island influences. What’s for breakfast? Expect a lavish breakfast buffet with Canarian cheeses, cured meats, breads and pastries, plus a smoothie bar, hot crispy churros and eggs in any style. There’s even an option to have a floating tray breakfast in your private pool.

PHOTOGRAPHS: MANOLO YLLERA

Anything else? Land House Corales Wellness focusses on highly personalised treatments, earth-inspired rituals and a wide range of facial and body treatments. Plus there’s a fully equipped gym, sauna, yoga patio and grounding area. Bespoke culinary experiences include paella from scratch cooked in your villa by a private chef and a vermouth tasting on the terrace. barcelo.com

The Terrace Rooms & Wine, Ventnor, Isle of Wight In a nutshell The Terrace Rooms & Wine is a beautifully restored Victorian townhouse with just a handful of rooms overlooking Ventnor Bay. Which room to book? Six rooms feature sea views, huge beds, wine fridges, contemporary art and soothing La-Eva toiletries. Food and drink Owned and run by food and wine experts Ashley and Tom Fahey, this boutique hideaway, wine shop and wine-led restaurant’s offering is unique. Rather than running a standard service, each Friday night in its bottlelined Wine Room, The Terrace hosts a themed wine tasting followed by an exquisite, communal dinner cooked by Tom, where guests and locals (many who’ve got to know each other at previous dinners) share a generous meal made almost entirely from local ingredients. This might include rack of flounder, roast venison and burnt butter and honey tart, all thoughtfully and entertainingly presented by Tom and Ashley, and served with imaginative wine pairings. The menu changes weekly and showcases the very best of what’s available from the island that day. Sourcing is everything – Tom is passionate about using ingredients that reflect the character and richness of the Isle of Wight, from seafood landed in Ventnor Harbour to vegetables from Living Larder and pork from Nunwell Farm. The awardwinning wine list leans towards indie producers that prioritise sustainability. What’s for breakfast? Breakfast is another treat: four courses served on the bright and airy pergola, including sausage roll and brown sauce, poached fruit, seeded soda bread and the Full Wightish, a lighter twist on a traditional fry-up. theterraceventnor.co.uk

ψ 1RYHPEHU NEC, BIRMINGHAM

The event of the season is back! Join us from 27–30 November for a festive day out filled with your favourite chefs, live demos, festive shopping, and plenty of seasonal flavours. It’s the ultimate treat!

Big Kitchen, Big Inspiration James Martin, Michel Roux, Si King, Jane’s Patisserie, Paul Ainsworth, Gennaro Contaldo and more will be taking to the Big Kitchen stage to share their mouthwatering festive recipes along with a dish full of entertainment. Take a seat at the heart of the show for seasonal inspiration, live demos, and plenty of tips and tricks you can take home to use in your kitchen!

%∅ N WLFNHWV QRZ Good Food readers save 20%* on admission when you use code OLIVE20.

WITH THANKS TO OUR SPONSORS: Headline sponsor

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*20% off valid on adult/standard entry tickets - offer ends 23:59pm 1 September 2025. All offers exclude Saturday, VIP tickets, 2-day tickets, added extras, not valid with any other offer. £3.95 transaction fee per e-ticket per order, not all celebrities appear on all days and the line-up in subject to change. Details correct at time of print. Organised and presented by Immediate Live.

PHOTOGRAPH: GARY YEOWELL/DIGITAL VISION/GETTY

the O guide to

Yorkshire Dales A famously picturesque corner of Britain, popular with walkers and cyclists, the Dales also prides itself on its food – see the sights and tuck in

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Words TONY NAYLOR

FOODIES LOVE… The Black Bull, Sedbergh At the Dales’ western edge (next stop, the Lake District) this stylish inn excels with its chic rooms and chef Nina Matsunaga’s distinctive cooking. The Bull does the rural inn bit impressively (great roasts, Monday’s pie night) but Nina also cleverly channels global influences in dishes such as cured mackerel, ajo blanco, orange and daikon or Herdwick lamb with liver sauce and tomato salsa. For more tasty Sedbergh action, swing by The Meat Hook butcher, micropub The Thirsty Rambler and The Dalesman inn. theblackbullsedbergh.co.uk

KIRKBY CRACKER The Sun Inn, Kirkby Lonsdale The geography of the Yorkshire Dales National Park is such that several market towns – Kirkby Lonsdale a particularly charming example – fall just outside its official border but attract many Dales visitors. Spruce pub with rooms, The Sun Inn, is a good Kirkby base. Its dishes run from lunch salads and sandwiches to sophisticated mains such as braised beef with creamed potato, celeriac and pancetta sauce. Also in town check out excellent butcher Dales, the Kirkby Lonsdale Brewery tap The Royal Barn, and The Milking Parlour, home of cow to cone gelato-style ice creams made on the nearby dairy farm. sun-inn.info

DALES CLASSIC The Sandpiper Inn, Leyburn Jonathan Harrison, a 90s Roux Scholarship winner, is part of that generation of pioneering modern British chefs whose dedication to skilful scratch cooking revolutionised UK food. That approach has for more than 25 years made this gorgeous inn an essential for dishes as diverse as crab tagliatelle or crispy duck leg, mango salad, sauté potatoes and Asian dressing. Breads and ice creams are, of course, made in-house. thesandpiperinn.com

EVERGREEN INN Black Swan Hotel, Ravenstonedale A destination since Victorian times, this attractive Westmorland village inn has in recent years emerged as an award-winning stand-out. In summer, diners spread out into the courtyard and a riverside beer garden. Nifty pub classics (fish pie, double cheeseburger with gouda and bacon jam) are served alongside cheffier dishes such as scallops with preserved lemon and pancetta or a popular cheese soufflé made with goat’s cheese from local farm Piper Hole. blackswanhotel.com

BANGIN’ BAKERY Two Dales Bakery, Reeth

PHOTOGRAPH: ROB WHITROW PHOTOGRAPHY

Two Dales is a real bread advocate creating A1 sourdoughs, buttermilk-enriched sandwich loaves, patisserie and lush bakes. In the modish café you can brunch and lunch on french toast, serious sausage rolls, homemade soups and jazzy egg dishes, with smoked salmon or halloumi and pesto. Thursday’s takeaway pizzas are a hit with locals and holidaymakers. twodalesbakery.co.uk

BASED IN MANCHESTER, TONY NAYLOR HAS SPENT OVER A DECADE WRITING ABOUT FOOD AND DRINK FOR A VARIETY OF NATIONAL OUTLETS INCLUDING OBSERVER FOOD MONTHLY, THE GUARDIAN AND RESTAURANT MAGAZINE. @NAYLOR_TONY

POLISHED PUB The Blue Lion, East Witton A handsome rural retreat that impresses, whether eating Isle of Mull cheddar rarebit at lunch in the bar (flagged floors, beams, local ales) or lingering over three courses in the restaurant. The menu is a classy crowd-pleaser in dishes such as homemade tagliatelle carbonara with guanciale (from ace charcuterie maker Cobbled Lane) or glazed pork belly with boudin noir, apple, charred Hispi and pickled mustard seeds. thebluelion.co.uk

This restaurant with rooms is a go-to for numerous reasons: from afternoon tea to a summer G&T on its terrace, on pretty Grassington’s cobbled village square. In the kitchen chef-owner John Rudden, an experienced hand, ensures quality. The high-flying restaurant menu ranges from, for example, king scallop with chicken and wild mushroom tortellini, celeriac, chicken jus and seaweed velouté, to beef mignon with rag pudding, carrot purée, cabbage faggot and red wine jus. grassingtonhouse.co.uk

PIZZA THE ACTION Rind, Austwick A satellite of London’s Cheese Bar, Rind shares a site with The Courtyard Dairy, where it creates beautiful wood-fired pizzas using British and Irish cheeses. The margherita is dressed with Old Winchester and UK mozzarella, while an eggs florentine inspired pizza has a sheep’s curd base and uses County Tipperary’s Cáis Na Tíre cheese. A funky canteen-style space with amazing views of the verdant Dales. thecheesebar.com

DREAM DESTINATION The Angel at Hetton, near Skipton A legendary restaurant with rooms, this 15th century inn has experienced a chic, modern makeover under chef Michael Wignall, both in its interior styling and food. Michelin-starred tasting menus make intelligent, original use of the finest ingredients. Dishes might include the likes of marinated Isle of Mull scallop, blood orange, English wasabi and fennel or cod, kombu, cuttlefish and smoked pike roe. angelhetton.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPHS: JIM VARNEY, JOHN CAREY

TASTY HUB Grassington House, Grassington

RISING STAR Hansom, Bedale Restaurant geeks have long tagged Ruth Hansom as one to watch and at her intimate restaurant, launched last year, this talented chef is cooking up something special in plates of, say, cured sea trout, kohlrabi, cucumber and smoked hollandaise or a Wensleydale cheese bread ’n’ butter pudding that is pressed, sliced and panfried in butter. Hansom’s centrepiece seven-course tasting menu changes constantly in reaction to peak seasonal, regional produce. hansomrestaurant.co.uk

FOODIE EXPERIENCES 1. Black Sheep Brewery, Masham On Nidderdale’s northern edge, Black Sheep’s visitor centre is a boon for beer fans. Drop in to sample classic Black Sheep cask ales at source or for greater insight into the brewery’s 30-plus years of history and the details of the brewing process itself – from the base mashing of malted barley upwards – take the brewery tour, available Thursday to Sunday. blacksheepbrewery.com

2. Elsworth at the Mill, Skipton

3. Wensleydale Creamery, Hawes

Husband and wife team Rebecca and chef Bruce Elsworth have worked in top-end Dales restaurants for years. Now, in an attractive event space at Skipton’s High Corn Mill, they run a busy programme of cooking demo with lunch sessions, personalised cooking classes and supper clubs, ranging from explorations of regional Italian cooking to collabs with artisan producers that celebrate the area’s vibrant food ecology. elsworthatthemill.co.uk

Originating in a 12th century Cistercian monastery, crumbly Wensleydale cheese endures as the Dales’ most famous food export. Visitors to the creamery can, as part of the ticketed ‘cheese experience’, watch a cheese-making demo and enjoy a guided tasting, as well as delving into that history. The chance to get a photo with Wensleydale fans Wallace & Gromit (here, life-size recreations woven in wool) is a fun bonus. wensleydale.co.uk

FOODIE TOWN Settle

PHOTOGRAPH: GEORGIE BECK PHOTOGRAPHY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, JO RITCHIE

Settle is well known for crags, caves, waterfalls and the SettleCarlisle railway line. But this historic market town and the villages of surrounding Ribblesdale and Malhamdale are cultivating quite the food scene, too. In Settle, foodies are buzzing about the hip, crisply executed small plates at chef Iain Graham’s The Nettle restaurant. Think butternut squash croquettes, goat’s curd, maple and sesame. Elsewhere, refresh at High Street Coffee, micropub Millers @ Bar 13 or the Talbot Arms freehouse. For food shopping visit butcher and expert pie maker, Drake & Macefield, homewares store (and cute café) Car and Kitchen, Tuesday’s town market and Settle Artisan Market (second Sunday, monthly). Heading into the surrounding countryside, Lay of the Land is a small garden centre whose café, led by chef Jimmie Lay, is much-loved by discerning locals. As is Town End Farm Shop, a crucial outlet for regional artisan foods, including owner Chris Wildman’s charcuterie. Just a few miles from Settle, Austwick is home to the wellregarded hotel restaurant The Traddock and nationally significant food hub The Courtyard Dairy. The dairy retails up to 50 carefully matured cheeses from small farmhouse producers (including its own Hebden Cow and Kalkaber cheeses, made on-site), houses a cheese museum and hosts events and cheese-making courses. It also shares its Crows Nest Barn location with pizzeria Rind, natural wine shop Buon Vino and artisan bakery Ambry. An unmissable package.

4 G R E AT G E TAWAY S

Extend your city break

Estonia (beyond Tallinn) Tallinn’s coastline has long been shaking off its industrial look – the former militarised zone of Paljassaare Peninsula, for example, is now a forest-bathing and wild-swimming haven. Go 20 minutes out of the city to find NOA Chef’s Hall, a Michelin starred spot with gorgeous views of Tallinn Bay and the Gulf of Finland. Under an hour away is Maidla Nature Resort, a manor set in a former servants’ house with three Nature Villas. These cosy set-ups each offer a variation on sauna, fireplace and outdoor bathtub, and are a great spot

from which to explore the Estonian countryside. Go canoeing, stand-up paddleboarding, bog-hiking by day (75% of Estonia is forest and bogland), before dining at on-site Michelin Green Star restaurant SOO. Its seasonal, eight-course gastronomic menu is always changing; sample dishes include herb raviolo with chanterelles, fermented black beans, lemon balm and thyme; and egg curd with Estonian whitefish, cured with dried seaweed, served with pickled fennel and dill.

WORDS: MEERA DATTANI. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK EDITORIAL AND ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

Go beyond the European capitals into seaside foodie havens, lakeside retreats and historical cities

Czech Republic (beyond Prague) An hour from Prague is the 700-year-old Plzeň, birthplace of worldfamous Czech lager pilsner. Key sights include Loos Interiors (eight residential interiors created by the designer Adolf Loos), the Great Synagogue and St Bartholomew’s Cathedral. The calling card for many visitors is a tour of the Pilsner Urquell brewery. You can also tour Bohemia Sekt, the country’s largest sparkling wine producer. At Na Spilce, a brewery pub in the old fermentation cellars of the Pilsner brewery, comforting creations include sausages in dark beer with horseradish served in a beer bread roll; sturgeon with caraway seeds and Nebílovy cider sauce; and gnocchi with a nutty, herby, baked pumpkin purée. Stay at the beautifully designed family-run Hotel Rango. It’s 16th century cellar restaurant specialises in Italian and Mediterranean cuisine serving fresh pasta, pizza, as well as meat and fish cooked on the grill.

Germany (beyond Berlin) About an hour’s drive from Berlin’s city centre is the beautiful Brandenburg lakeside region. On the edge of Lake Scharmützelsee is the spa town of Bad Saarow, known for its mud and thermal springs, and ideal for walks, water sports and swimming. It’s also the location for Freilich am See restaurant, a palate pleaser for German comfort food lovers. Tuck into a wiener schnitzel or sprout salad with pomegranate and feta alongside traditional Bavarian draught beer and fruit brandies from a local distillery. On the journey from Berlin to the lakes, stop at Spreepark, a former East German amusement park inside the 90-hectare Plänterwald Forest. Undergoing a revival with art galleries, outdoor spaces and a beer garden, it’s home to restaurant Ei-12437-B where traditional German dishes are given a twist on an ever-changing menu: think bread dumplings in mushroom sauce, and wild boar ragout with lingonberry, pear and hazelnut spaetzle. Weekend brunch dishes feature homemade granola with pears and hazelnut butter, or wild boar sausage and eggs.

Madeira (beyond Funchal) Just a 15-minute drive from Funchal is the pretty fishing town Câmara de Lobos – worth a night or two, a day trip or even just a meal. Wander into little bars to try poncha, Madeira’s fruity alcoholic concoction, then watch the sunset from the boardwalk over a cold beer and lapas (grilled limpets). Later tuck into Madeiran speciality espetada (grilled meat skewers) at Vila da Carne or top notch fish and seafood at sister restaurant Vila do Peixe, both local favourites with fantastic harbour views from above town. If you’re partial to a spectacular coastal view, Cabo Girão is 15 minutes west with a glass-floor viewing platform 580 metres above sea level. Relax for a few days at certified five-star ‘bio hotel’ Quinta da Serra, beautifully set in the mountains above Câmara de Lobos. It is a great base to explore the island’s trails (levadas) and the Laurisilva, Madeira’s UNESCO-protected laurel forest. Produce from its organic garden is regularly on the menu. Both nature and food are celebrated – in late autumn, for example, there are dinners to mark the apple harvest and the brewing of cider.

MEERA DATTANI IS A FREELANCE TRAVEL AND CULTURE JOURNALIST, AND EXECUTIVE EDITOR AT AWARD-WINNING TRAVEL PUBLICATION ADVENTURE.COM. HER SPECIALITIES INCLUDE SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL AND HERITAGE TOURISM, AND SHE IS A MEMBER OF THE BRITISH GUILD OF TRAVEL WRITERS. @NOFIXEDPLANS 75

PRO VS PUNTER

BANGKOK DINERS CLUB Critic Tony Naylor and an O reader compare notes on this new Thai residency in an iconic Manchester pub

ince reopening in 2019, the historic Edinburgh Castle pub has attracted some of Manchester’s brightest chef talent. The latest draw is Thai expert, Ben Humphreys, previously of the much-admired District. In collaboration with Ben’s wife, Bo, a chef born in Thailand’s Isan region, and co-founder, Danny Collins, Diners Club will see Ben exploring Bangkok’s fusion of regional Thai flavours but also using low ’n’ slow US barbecue techniques. Early dishes have included raw bass, calamansi nam jim and rice bran; haddock tom kha and shimeji mushroom with baby corn; and Thai omelette with smoked mushroom nam prik pao. ec-ancoats.com

Manchester-based food and drink writer, Tony Naylor, regularly contributes to O, Observer Food Monthly, The Guardian and Restaurant magazine.

Our pro says Located in a corner of Ancoats thick with restaurants, the handsome Edinburgh Castle pub has established its comfortable first-floor dining room as a reliable spot for ace food. Bangkok Diners Club could be its biggest hit yet. Thai food is a high-wire act: a supple, gymnastic deployment of numerous ingredients to create dishes that dynamically pop with flavours (salty, sweet, spicy, sour, etc) in delicious harmony. It is a difficult skill. But Ben Humphreys’ food dazzles. There is so much going on in each dish that I could fill this page unpacking just one. Suffice to say, smoked mackerel with grapefruit and ginger salad is in its close details (from mint, lime juice and fish sauce to unusually sweet gooseberries – Ben credits the recipe to wife, Bo), utterly elegant in the way its many flavours are held in complementary tension. That deft touch is evident throughout. A salt-aged beef salad comes with a remarkably clean bone marrow aïoli (lightened with rice bran oil), while barbecued smokiness adds compelling depth to a jammy mushroom nam prik pao, the complex chilli relish which fills a Thai omelette. Chilli heat brings soulful warmth to the Herdwick mutton gaeng khua which, its thick, fragrant sauce subtly vegetal with lime leaves, is soothing comfort food and flavour carnival. Was that the highlight? Or was it the pressed chicken thigh skewers with milk caramel? A sticky, smoky, juicy triumph – we immediately order a second portion. Dishes encourage informal sharing and, if eating with fellow food nerds, a rolling debate to identify (you will fail!) every flavour zinging by. The service (like Ben’s epic beer snack of curried pickled onion rings) suits the relaxed pub vibe, too: attentive without being overbearing, affable and natural. This is love at first bite territory. But food you will think about for days. BILL FOR TWO £138.54, including 12.5% service ATMOSPHERE 7/10 SERVICE 8/10 FOOD 9/10

Janet Glover is a neurodevelopmental consultant from Romiley, Greater Manchester. Her favourite cuisine is South East Asian and her most memorable meal was at A Wong in London.

Our punter says The Edinburgh Castle pub is situated in Ancoats, born as an intensively industrial Victorian area of Manchester, abandoned in the mid 20th century, now undergoing a huge revival. This solid brooding Victorian pub is situated in Blossom Street, home to Manchester’s first Michelin-starred restaurant. The Bangkok Dining Club is a new enterprise above the bar, with just 26 covers. It serves authentic Thai food served by friendly and helpful staff, offering five starters and four mains. Plates are small and intense flavours dominate. We ordered raw sea bass in calamansi nam jim sauce as a delicious citrussy amuse-bouche. The ultra fresh and authentic papaya salad is not for the spice faint hearted, but delicious and fresh. The salt-aged beef nam tok salad with bone marrow aïoli gives the taste buds another incredible smash. For mains, the sea bream comprised of two crunchy skinned fillets with tasty morsels of baby sweetcorn and shimeji mushroom sauce. Roast pork belly phat phet was properly rendered with a perfect crunchy rind, the richness balanced by delicate strips of rhubarb. We accompanied these with the long-stemmed broccoli in fermented yellow bean sauce, so tasty that no one would refuse their greens. Rice was available in two forms: jasmine or with chicken fat. The only dessert was a coconut milk lolly drizzled with yellow and red raspberry sauce, so rich and chewy but so refreshing after all the spice, we should have had one each instead of sharing. There was a small selection of wines, all reasonably priced – the tempranillo was suitably robust to balance the strong flavours. We were assured that the menu would rotate and, when it does, we will be back for more. TOTAL BILL FOR TWO £123.75, including 12.5% service ATMOSPHERE 7/10 SERVICE 9/10 FOOD 9/10

THE MEASURE Make September all about British gins, martinis and two-part bars Words HANNAH GUINNESS

A martini is all about the ratio of spirit to vermouth – the more spirit you use the drier the martini. We used a 5:1 ratio of gin to dry vermouth for this recipe but you could use 4:1 or go drier with 6:1, 7:1, 8:1 or even higher – it all depends on your preference. Make sure you stir together the ingredients well with ice – the dilution this achieves is key to the final drink. Put a martini glass in the freezer to chill for 20-30 mins. Put 75ml of London dry gin, 15ml of dry vermouth and a dash of orange bitters in a shaker or mixing glass with ice. Stir well for at least 20 seconds until very cold, then strain into the chilled glass and garnish with a lemon peel twist or olives.

BRITISH GINS TO TRY Sipsmith Chilli & Lime Gin (£30/70cl, Sainsbury’s)

Hepple Gin (£38.75/70cl, thewhiskyexchange.com)

Cygnet 77 (£129/70cl, masterofmalt.com)

An intriguing release from craft gin pioneer Sipsmith, made with seven different chillies from around the world, plus lime peel – the result is this unusual gin. It’s a much more subtle drink than you’d expect, with earthy, warming spice, bright citrus and delicate, tingling heat. Try using in a sour cocktail.

Made on the Northumbrian moors using home-grown juniper, plus botanicals like Douglas fir, lovage, bog myrtle and blackcurrant, this is a fresh, vibrant gin that sings of bold juniper and citrus flavours. One to drink in a dry martini.

A luxurious, blow-out Welsh sipping gin that’s aged in Welsh whisky casks for more than a year and flavoured with manuka honey. This combination creates lush depth, with rich juniper, subtle woodiness and herbaceous flavour notes.

COCKTAIL PHOTOGRAPH: HANNAH TAYLOR-EDDINGTON. SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: JESSICA MCINTOSH. ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: @LATEEFPHOTOGRAPHY, ELEONORA BOSCARELLI, BERNARD ZEIJA, ERIC MEDSKER

INGREDIENT COCKTAIL Dry gin martini

BAR HOPPER Two-part bars

Drinking dens that offer two bars for the price of one

Sip & Guzzle Manhattan, New York City Beneath one roof, one brand and one noteworthy team (The SG Club’s Shingo Gokan and Employees Only’s Steve Schneider) lie two unique concepts: ground-floor Guzzle is a lively, fast-paced 1860s New York neighbourhood space for meeting locals and knocking back highballs (such as the Sherry Colada, a concoction of cream sherry and coconut pineapple seltzer) and martinis; downstairs, a wooden door slides open to reveal Japanese-style speakeasy Sip – a sophisticated candlelit cocoon of jazz, low tables and silk prints. sipandguzzlenyc.com What to order Try Sip’s Sixty Forty, a punchy mash-up of a manhattan and martini, complete with both olive and cherry garnishes.

Tayēr + Elementary Shoreditch, London Head to Old Street for this acclaimed walk in only bar. At the front you’ll find Elementary, a neighbourhood joint serving classic and seasonal cocktails on tap around a communal table – think yuzu gimlets and vetiver negronis. Head through a partition to discover Tayēr, a more sultry, experimentally driven cocktail bar that serves ever changing drinks made with innovative techniques and produce. tayer-elementary.com What to order Try the famous one-sip martini in Elementary, served with a blue cheese stuffed olive.

Oriole Covent Garden, London This popular cocktail bar and live music spot closed its original Smithfield Market site in 2022 but its latest incarnation in Covent Garden’s Slingsby Place does not disappoint. Head to the ground floor, grab one of the Bamboo Bar’s cherry red seats and order sherry and vermouth aperitifs, plus cocktails on draft. Or head downstairs to discover a speakeasy-style space that serves a separate globally inspired cocktail menu alongside Latin American dishes. As with the first spot, Oriole also offers live jazz, blues and world music from Wednesday to Saturday. oriolebar.com What to order Sip on a Baikasai with Highland Park scotch, fermented red plum, oloroso sherry, apple soda and cherry blossom vinegar. 79

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Item 300176: three-litre pot, £19.99, saving £10 (RRP £29.99) Item 300183: 2 x three-litre pots, £34.98, saving £25 (RRP £59.98)

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These large, versatile plant pots are ideal for growing a range of trees, fruit bushes, shrubs, vegetables, roses, flower displays and also for wigwams for peas, beans, strawberries and more. Tough and durable, measuring approximately 40cm diameter x 35cm tall, they are made from UV stable frost-resistant plastic and have drainage holes and strong handles. plus p&p*

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To order, call 0844 502 0050** quoting O131 or visit yougarden.com/O131 TERMS AND CONDITIONS *P&P is £6.99 per order. Orders despatched within five to seven working days. **Calls cost 5p per minute plus your network provider’s access charge. Offer subject to availability and in the event that this offer is oversubscribed, we reserve the right to send suitable substitute varieties of the same or a higher value. Offer closes on 30 September 2025 or while stocks last. Delivery to UK only and a £3 surcharge may apply to the following postcode areas: AB, DD8-11, GY, HS, IM, IV, JE, KA27-28, KW, PA20-80, PH19-50, TR21-25 and ZE. Images show mature plants. Full product details and T&Cs at yougarden.com. Following Brexit there are a number of changes that prevent us from trading in N Ireland. For further details please visit yougarden.com.

WINE

101

RÍAS BAIXAS

with Kate Hawkings Explore this unique northern Spanish region for wines with a distinctive saline zip that pair perfectly with seafood

What’s special about Rías Baixas? The Rías Baixas wine region is in Galicia, on the northwest tip of Spain. Its proximity to the Atlantic means high rainfall and cool temperatures, and with its deeply verdant landscapes and wild craggy coastline the terroir is in marked contrast to the parched plains and sun-drenched beaches further south. Pronounced ‘ree-yus bye-shas’ its most widely planted grape is albariño, now familiar for reliably good drinking. This is one of Spain’s most important fishing areas. Historically the men would go out to sea while the woman stayed ashore to tend the grapes and make the wine, and still today most winemakers here are women.

THE FINER DETAILS

Young albariño is fresh and zesty, singing with white peaches, green apples and orange blossom. Some are kept on their lees (lias) after fermentation which gives some texture as well as more tropical notes, while the best are able to age for many years when they develop more complexity and structure. All carry the distinctive saline zip from the sea. The vines are trained on high pergolas called parras to maximise airflow and prevent damaging

Main grapes

White albariño, treixadura, loureiro, caíño blanco, torrontés, godello Red sousón, espadeiro, caíño tinto, loureira tinta, mencía, brancellao, pedral

Perfect pairings Seafood in the region is stupendous and goes brilliantly with albariño. Oysters, mussels, clams, crabs, lobsters and goose barnacles are the ace local matches but it’s a very versatile wine that suits many other light, fresh dishes. Serve the reds slightly chilled with more robust flavours – paprika-spiked octopus, chorizo or grilled veg – or a simple tomato-based pasta sauce.

mildews that thrive in the humid climate. Most grapes come from tiny plots owned by thousand of growers who sell their crops to the winemakers and, although organic production is impossible here because of the climate, most growers keep fungicide spraying to a minimum and work hard to maintain rich biodiversity and soil health. Other local grapes also make fantastic white wines and there’s a welcome return of interest in traditional red grapes, too.

ILLUSTRATION: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE

Where to stayy Quinta de San Amaro Set among picturesque vineyards in the heart of the Salnés Valley, and only 10 minutes from spectacular beaches, this historic house with outbuildings has been beautifully restored and has 14 dreamy rooms along with a small pool,

spa treatments and plenty of space for relaxing. There’s a very good restaurant, too, or head to O Grove on the coast where Beiramar and d’Berto are highly recommended, and there are several wineries nearby that offer tastings. quintadesanamaro.com

3 PRODUCERS TO TRY Extra Special Albariño (£10.47, Asda) Grapes in Rías Baixas are expensive to produce – all harvesting must be done by hand, yields are low and land prices are high, so quality wines at a gentle price can be hard to find. This is made by Bodegas Pazo Cilleiro, dating from the 11th century, and ticks all the boxes of what we know and love about albariño. Ripe pear, citrus and peachy fruit shot through with a bright, appetising acidity. Great value. Terras Gauda O Rosal 2024 (£22.35, shop.lescaves.co.uk) In the O Rosal sub-region, on the banks of the Miño River bordering Spain and Portugal, Terras Gauda is unusual in that it sources most of its grapes from its own vineyards, and specialises in the rare caíño blanco variety. Here this is blended with albariño and loureiro to make an aromatic and complex wine, with seductive layers of lemon curd, pink grapefruit, Cantaloupe melon, jasmine and bay with a briny flourish. Bodegas Attis Xión Cuvée Tinto (£22, laithwaites.co.uk) Established in 2013 by brothers Robustiano and Baldomero Fariña, who come from generations of local fishermen and vine growers, Attis is one of Rias Baixas’ most exciting and pioneering producers, championing native red varieties in danger of extinction. This blend of pedral, sousón and espadeiro is juicy and refreshing with red berries, astringent herbs, a whisper of spice and minerality.

• Become a wine expert at Omagazine.com, with tips on must-try grapes and bottles, and the best vineyards to visit KATE HAWKINGS IS A WRITER AND WINE CONSULTANT. HER LATEST BOOK, THE LITTLE BOOK OF APERITIFS: 50 CLASSIC COCKTAILS AND DELIGHTFUL DRINKS, IS OUT NOW (£10, QUADRILLE). FOLLOW HER ON INSTAGRAM @KATEHAWKINGS. 81

THINGS I LOVE ABOUT

Sri Lanka

Eroshan Meewella, owner of Kolamba restaurants in London, shares his passion for his island homeland where every meal is an opportunity to connect

Food that speaks of home When guests arrive I like to welcome them with something that evokes the comfort and welcome of a Sri Lankan home — roast paan still warm from the bakery, a punchy pol sambol and, if we’re by the coast, lagoon crab.

Village cooking Go inland and you’ll see how food is still made over wood fires with ingredients grown a few metres from the stove. A market trip followed by a fireside cook-up is the rhythm of daily life for many.

We don’t do one-plate meals Even an average lunch might involve five or six curries, pickles, sambols and something like red rice or pittu to bring it together. It’s this variety — vegetables, lentils, seafood, spices — that defines our food culture. Balanced, bold and generous.

WORDS: KEITH KENDRICK. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, KEITH KENDRICK

Lamprais Lamprais is a parcel of rice layered with meat or vegetables and slowbaked in banana leaf, with origins in the Dutch Burgher community. You’ll find it in homes and a few select cafés in Galle. Done well, it’s a quiet masterpiece.

Seafood is part of who we are Being an island, fish is a cornerstone of our cuisine. Around Negombo, tuna, crab and prawns aren’t luxuries, they’re everyday fare. The market is noisy, chaotic and absolutely beautiful. What you buy that morning will be your lunch by noon.

Small snacks, big flavours You’ll find short eats in every bakery and tea kiosk: cutlets, vadai, stuffed buns. Having them as part of a picnic, up in the tea estates, is something special. They’re the ideal travel food: portable, spiced and always satisfying.

Tea is a way of life In the hill country tea isn’t just an export, it’s part of our daily rhythm. The estates around Ella still do things the old way. Visiting a factory, tasting the brews, understanding the work behind each cup makes you respect that 4pm mug even more.

Arrack is Sri Lanka’s whisky Arrack is the island’s iconic spirit distilled from the fermented sap of coconut flowers, known as toddy. Harvested by skilled toddy tappers who climb tall palms to collect the sweet nectar, this traditional liquor has bold, earthy notes. We enjoy arrack neat, on ice or as a punchy base in tropical cocktails.

PHOTOGRAPHS: KEITH KENDRICK, DAVID COTSWORTH, ANTON RODRIGUEZ, HADYNYAH/E+/GETTY

Hoppers are everyday art Hoppers are more than a breakfast staple, they’re a culinary craft. The batter takes a day to ferment and the cooking technique is one of intuition and practice. There’s the classic bowl-shaped hopper, the egg hopper, the sweet version finished with thick coconut milk and string hoppers – a biryani version of which is available in our restaurant, Kolamba East in Spitalfields.

Pittu and black pork curry Some nights all I want is pittu with fiery black pork curry and sambols. Pittu is made from steamed cylinders of rice flour and coconut. It’s soft, slightly crumbly and perfect for soaking up sauce. It’s what we turn to when we want something deeply comforting.

Turn the page for O’s tips on where to eat and stay in Sri Lanka

RAISED BETWEEN THE UK AND COLOMBO, EROSHAN MEEWELLA BEGAN IN THE CORPORATE WORLD BEFORE HE AND HIS WIFE AUSHI UNITED THEIR PASSIONS FOR FOOD, DESIGN AND SRI LANKA BY LAUNCHING DEVELOPMENT COMPANY WHITEBOX LONDON IN 2006, THEN KOLAMBA, A MODERN SRI LANKAN RESTAURANT, IN 2019. IN 2024 THEY OPENED KOLAMBA EAST, BRINGING MORE COLOMBO FLAVOURS TO LONDON. KOLAMBA.CO.UK

Club Ceylon, Negombo An elegant riverside restaurant in Negombo, Club Ceylon is owned by London-trained head chef Liz Norris. Every morning she goes to the nearby seafood market to select boat-fresh fish for her contemporary Sri Lankan cooking. With its creative cocktails and live music it’s a top pick for both romantic dinners and leisurely lunches, with views of Sri Lanka’s western coast. @clubceylon Smoke & Bitters, Hiriketiya Ranked among Asia’s 50 Best Bars, Smoke & Bitters is nestled in the surfy enclave of Hiriketiya. It’s known for smoky island-inspired cocktails and dishes that fuse local ingredients with global techniques. The open-air setting, moody lighting and expertly crafted drinks make this an essential sundown stop for foodies and cocktail lovers seeking a unique coastal experience. smokeandbitters.com Palmyrah, Colombo Located in the Renuka Hotel, Palmyrah is a long-standing favourite for authentic Sri Lankan fare, especially Jaffna-style cuisine. From aromatic crab curries to rich mutton poriyal and spicy sambols, every dish

honours Tamil culinary traditions. The understated, comfortable setting allows the bold, heritage-rich flavours to shine – ideal for those wanting a deeper dive into the island’s diverse food culture. renukacityhotel.com Sugar Bistro at Heritage, Galle Tucked inside Galle Fort’s storied walls, Sugar Bistro at Heritage is a charming nod to the past with a modern culinary twist. Built around an ancient bakery, the menu celebrates local produce and global flavours, from spicy Sri Lankan curries to citrussy ceviches, pizzas and burgers. A must-order is kothu – a riot of stir-fried chopped rotis with eggs and vegetables, topped with plump prawns. heritagecafeandbistro.com Raa, Hiriketiya Tucked into the palm-lined surf hub of Hiriketiya, Raa is a laid-back bar and restaurant that blends a rustic-chic aesthetic with a menu of tropical cocktails, fresh seafood and flavourful small plates ideal for sharing. Perfect after a swim or surf session, Raa delivers relaxed vibes, live music nights and breezy alfresco dining just steps from the ocean. @raa.hiriketiya

PHOTOGRAPHS: KEITH KENDRICK, IAN TROWER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

WHERE TO STAY

Famous architect Geoffrey Bawa’s estate, Lunuganga, spans 15 acres in Bentota. Ten bedrooms infused with his warm, artistic style are dotted around the estate, some with luxurious features such as private pools and hilltop verandas overlooking the garden, some with more unique offerings – The Glass House has 360 degrees of floor-to-ceiling windows to make the most of the view. Stays offer more than just a bedroom with options for garden tours, puppet shows, cooking classes and 5pm drinks. The estate is particularly dedicated to creating a culinary experience. It’s about more than food, it’s more like a conversation between garden and plate. Many ingredients – including giant jackfruits – are grown on site and the fish is caught nearby. The setting overlooking Dedduwa Lake lends everything a quiet grace. teardrop-hotels.com

Teardrop Hotels Comprising nine properties across Sri Lanka, this is a passion project turned hotel collection started by a group of friends who restored a series of colonial era buildings across the island. What began as a creative way to bring history back to life has grown into a set of boutique properties, each with its own story to tell. The rooms across the group are cosy and characterful – think four-poster beds, vintage floor tiles and open verandas made for sipping tea. The food is fresh with a Sri Lankan twist, whether you’re tucking into crab curry or mutton rolls and hoppers served under the stars. Take a foodie tour around the island, starting in coastal Negombo, staying at Wallawwa, a laid-back spa retreat just a quick hop from the airport. Head inland to the cooler climes of Ella to Nine Skies, a hillside hideaway with sweeping views, tea-scented air and slow mornings wrapped in mist. At UNESCO heritage town Galle, Teardrop’s Fort Bazaar is a stylish heritage retreat, blending colonial architecture with modern luxury. Each room is adorned with contemporary art, rich textiles and high ceilings. A standout feature is the indulgent champagne button in every room – press it and a chilled glass of bubbly promptly arrives.

COOK LIKE A LOCAL

Armenia

Explore the flavours of this West Asian country, from rice-stuffed vine leaves to sweet and salty cake Words and recipes CAROLINE EDEN Photographs OLA O SMIT

Lamb with plums, green beans and cinnamon

t’s no wonder when you look at the geography of mountainous Armenia, bordering Turkey, Georgia, Iran and Azerbaijan, with its abundant forests and vineyards that the country’s food would mirror its enticing landscape. In Armenia a restaurant might serve tolma (rice and herbs wrapped in a grape leaf), bean-based patês, cold and slightly sour thick matsoon yogurt, big glass bottles of ice-cold Jermuk mineral water, chargrilled beef, salads of citrus, and grapes and tarragon, eetch (a wonderfully refreshing dish similar to tabbouleh), roast peppers or perhaps trout wrapped in paperthin lavash bread. Lavash, forming the backbone of Armenia’s diet, is guaranteed to be on the table during mealtimes and usually it is served blistered and hot from the oven. But there are more breads to know, too. Jingalov hats (hats means bread in Armenian) is a must-try and when this stuffed bread arrives to you in a café, often warm and in the shape of a deflated rugby ball, it is sometimes served with three bowls containing salt, cumin and paprika. Ingredients for the green filling varies, depending on what herbs are available, but it tends to include dill, coriander, greens (maybe spinach or sorrel) and spring onions. If the ingredients are super fresh and flavoursome, little more is needed. Like neighbouring Georgia the weather and terroir of Armenia means it too offers stupendous wines, ready to be more widely discovered. The grape to start with is the dark and complex Areni grape, known to everyone as Areni noir. For sweet things, gata is a dense almost bread-like cake which certainly deserves to be better known. In Armenia, it is especially linked to Geghard Monastery, where vendors have displayed and sold gata for as long as anyone can remember. It pairs excellently with a cup of coffee. And then there are the almost indescribable apricots: dozens of varieties grow in Armenia and 6,000-year-old apricot stones have been dug up from the country’s soil. Prunus armeniaca is the fruit’s Latin name, hinting at its native origins. Do not leave the country in summer without trying them.

This fine spirited meal in one showcases fruit in a savoury dish – ideal for late spring or summer when nature’s gates are thrown open, providing an abundance of garden herbs, fresh vegetables and fruit.

2 tbsp olive oil 500g lamb shoulder, chopped into bite-sized pieces 1 onion, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 130g green beans, chopped into 4cm pieces 1 tsp ground cinnamon. ½ tsp sweet paprika 1 tbsp tomato purèe 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 4 plums, stoned and chopped into bite-sized pieces 500ml vegetable stock 2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped ½ lemon, juiced crusty white bread, to serve

1 In a lidded casserole dish, heat 1 tbsp of the oil. Season the meat and fry briefly until browned. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and add the remaining oil. Fry the onion, garlic and beans with a little salt and pepper for 5 mins, stirring continuously – if it is catching add a little more oil. 2 Add the spices, tomato purée, vinegar and plums, cook for 5 mins, then add the stock. Return the lamb to the pan. Simmer gently, uncovered, for 15 mins, then for 10 mins with the lid on. Let it sit for a while to let the flavour develop, then scatter over the parsley, stir through the lemon juice and serve in bowls with crusty white bread on the side. PER SERVING 814 kcals | fat 58G | saturates 23G carbs 21G | sugars 18G | fibre 9G | protein 48G | salt 1.1G

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: CAROLINE EDEN, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, DOMINGO LEIVA, TORRI PHOTO/MOMENT/GETTY

SERVES 2 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 45 MINS | EASY

Summer tolma with barberries A little fiddly but worth it and much easier with practice. Think of tolma as a beginning and call on whatever is in the fridge to make simple textured dishes to go alongside a meze set-up – perhaps feta crumbled over a herby tomato salad, aubergines grilled with za’atar, or a crunchy cabbage and carrot salad. MAKES 16 | PREP 35 MINS | COOK 55 MINS | EASY | V

16 vine leaves in brine 100g short-grain white rice, rinsed 2 shallots, finely chopped 200g tin of chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp tomato purèe 20g dried barberries or unsweetened dried cranberries 1 tbsp sweet paprika ½ tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp cayenne pepper ¼ tsp ground cumin 1 tsp dried tarragon (or sage or thyme) handful of chopped dill handful of chopped parsley 1 tsp lemon juice 1 tbsp olive oil SAUCE 2 tbsp olive oil ½ small onion, finely chopped 1 tsp tomato purèe 50g tin of chopped tomatoes TO SERVE thick plain yogurt red pepper flakes

1 Wash the vine leaves under hot water to rinse away the brine. Combine the rice, shallots, tomatoes, tomato purée, barberries, spices, herbs, lemon juice, oil and seasoning in a bowl, and mix thoroughly. 2 Put a vine leaf on a clean worksurface with the stalk towards you, vein side up. Cut off the stalk and then put 1 tbsp of the rice mixture in the middle of the leaf. Bring up the sides and begin rolling, keeping it as tight as possible, tucking in the sides as you go, until you have a neat little sausage shape. Repeat until you have all 16 ready. 3 Heat the olive oil in an 18cm round casserole dish and cook the onion with a generous pinch of fine sea salt until soft, then add the tomato purée and the chopped tomatoes. Cook for 2 mins then taste and adjust the seasoning. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. 4 Once the sauce is cool, put the tolma, seam side down, in a single layer on the tomato sauce, and pour in enough water to just cover them. Take a heat-resistant plate or pan lid, a bit smaller than the pot, and put on top of the tolma to stop them rising and breaking as they cook. Simmer gently for 35-40 mins or until the rice is cooked through. Serve with thick yogurt dusted with red pepper flakes on the side PER SERVING 58 kcals | fat 2G | saturates 0.3G carbs 8G | sugars 2G | fibre 2G | protein 1G | salt 0.3G

Gata with apricots and nuts Gata is a bread-like cake and it is for you if you like, say, half and half popcorn, because it is as salty as it is sweet. In Armenia it is especially linked to Geghard Monastery where vendors have displayed and sold gata for as long as anyone can remember. For this gata I used a variety of seeds – any mixture of the following works well: pumpkin, sunflower, sesame and brown linseed. SERVES 6-8 | PREP 40 MINS PLUS RESTING AND CHILLING COOK 30 MINS | MORE EFFORT | V DOUGH 70g caster sugar 80g unsalted butter, softened 1½ tsp fine salt 160 greek yogurt 1 egg 280g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 7g fast-action dried yeast ¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda FILLING 40g unsalted butter, melted 50g toasted walnuts, chopped into pea-sized pieces 40g dried unsulphured apricots, chopped into pea-sized pieces 20g mixed seeds, toasted 2 tbsp plain flour ¼ tsp fine salt ¼ tsp almond extract 1 egg, beaten, to glaze

1 In a large mixing bowl, cream together the sugar and butter. Stir in the salt, yogurt and egg, then tip in the flour, yeast and bicarb. Bring it together as best you can (it will be a little sticky), adding a little more flour if necessary, then tip out onto a clean worksurface and knead a few times until the stickiness is gone. 2 Flatten out the dough into a 22cm disc and put onto a dinner plate. Let it rest, covered, at room temperature for 25 mins, then transfer to the fridge for 1 hr. 3 Meanwhile, make the filling. Put all the ingredients, apart from the egg, in a bowl and combine well with a spoon to form a textured paste. 4 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and line a baking tray with baking paper. Remove the dough from the fridge, roll it out into a 25cm disc and put the filling in the middle, leaving a 5cm border around the edge. Bring the sides up, gradually folding into the centre, making a money bag shape, until the filling is covered. Flatten it shut using your palm, then turn over onto the baking sheet so the sealed side is underneath. The gata should be about 15cm in diameter. Gata are usually decorated – I use the back of a fork to make some criss-cross lines though, once baked, they do tend to disappear a little. 5 Glaze well with the egg and bake for 25-30 mins or until deep golden all over. Allow to cool before serving. PER SERVING (8) 409 kcals | fat 21G | saturates 10G carbs 43G | sugars 12G | fibre 3G | protein 9G | salt 1.3G

Recipes extracted from Green Mountains by Caroline Eden (£28, Quadrille Publishing). Photographs: Ola O Smit. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

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A touch of

SPICE 97

EASY WINS

SMASHED MEATBALL KEBAB PLATTER WITH HERBY GREEN YOGURT

Ready-made meatballs are a great cheat for this spicy salad platter Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH

If you want to make the shawarma spice blend from scratch, simply mix ¼ tsp each of ground cumin, smoked paprika, ground turmeric, ground coriander and salt. SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS COOK 15 MINS | EASY 24 meatballs (beef, lamb, pork or plant-based) olive oil, for drizzling 2 tsp shawarma spice blend parsley and mint, to garnish COUSCOUS SALAD 250g giant wholewheat couscous 1 lemon, juiced ½ small bunch of parsley, leaves only ½ small bunch of mint, leaves only ½ red onion, sliced 4 roasted red peppers from a jar, sliced HERBY YOGURT 4 tbsp greek yogurt handful of parsley leaves handful of mint leaves ½ garlic clove squeeze of lemon juice

1 Heat the oven to 230C/210C fan/gas 8. Line a large baking tray with baking paper and tip the meatballs onto it. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with the spice mix generously on all sides. Use a fork to squash each meatball flat. 2 Roast for 10-15 mins or until cooked through and starting to get crispy on the edges. 3 To make the salad, cook the couscous following pack instructions then drain well and cool. Add the lemon juice, herbs, onion, peppers and a good pinch of salt, and toss everything together. 4 Blitz the herby yogurt ingredients together in a blender or food processor. 5 Tip the salad onto a large platter and top with the spicy smashed meatballs. Drizzle over the yogurt and finish with a few extra herbs scattered over. PER SERVING 597 kcals | fat 22G | saturates 10G carbs 52G | sugars 9G | fibre 5G | protein 45G | salt 2.4G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLING: AMY STEPHENSON